Bloom Magazine Qatar, September 2015

A BRIGHT LIFESTYLE September 2015

Distributed with

AIGNER

Tradition with a twist

Van Cleef & Arpels’ Contemplating the Seas

Elie Saab Haute Couture

Fall-Winter 2015-16

Dior Kids Collection

Fall-Winter 2015

For Athletes The Risk of too Much Water

How Anti-Aging Creams Get Old Too Fast

Published by

A BRIGHT LIFE STYLE

inside

A

fter a miserable August, a soggy September is upon us, and evenings – already drawing in – will soon enough be rudely cut short by the wrong-headed yearly ratcheting back of the clock. With no Indian summer in prospect, hopes of fending off premature seasonal affective disorder rest on discerning the best in the darkening days as we find them. Who better to help us than John Keats? To Autumn has been hailed by critics as his “only perfect poem”, and has touched a wider public as the most anthologised three verses in English. Keats taught us that transience is part of beauty. The songs of spring are sung because of the barrenness before, and the brevity of each month’s weather makes it precious. Whatever it can carry it does - litter, hats, shopping bags - with a kind of jubilation. It is not at all what the poet Shelley called it - “dirge of the dying year.” It is episodic, and if it rises at night, it becomes listless at dawn, vanishing altogether on another fine autumn day.

September 2015

Distributed with

4

AIGNER

Tradition

Van Cleef & Arpels’

with a twist

Cat Walk

Elie Saab Haute Couture Fall-Winter 2015-16

Contemplating the Seas

Elie Saab Haute Couture

Dior Kids Collection

Fall-Winter 2015-16

Fall-Winter 2015

Style

How Anti-Aging Creams Get Old Too Fast

For Athletes the Risk of too Much Water

6

TRADITION with a twist

Editorial:

8 Jewellery

Hanan Ghazwani , Atul Srivastava

Van Cleef & Arpels

Design:

Ravindranath Koonath

12 Accessories

Fall/Winter 2015 Women’s Collection

Maria Carbungco Sales & Marketing

For contributions and advertisements please contact:

Tel: 4000 2156 (Editorial) / 4000 2155 (Sales) Email: bloom@qimqatar.com

14

Product

Autum Beauty Essiontials

22

Skin Care

Mistakes Skincare Addicts Make

Office address:

P.O. Box: 22345, Barwa Commercial Avenue, Safwa Block, Landmark 6, Abu Hamour, Doha, Qatar

24 Health

New Moms Can Avoid Back Injury When Caring For Their Babies

34

Travel

In Italy, Hiking and Haute Cuisine in the Dolomites

CAT WALK

ELIE SAAB

Haute Couture

Fall-Winter 2015-16

Elie Saab presented his Fall-Winter 2015 haute couture collection in Paris.

The House has always been synonymous with pure refinement, extreme femininity, and unique artisanal know-how.

4

The Lebanese designer seems to inherently understand a woman’s touch, character and needs, catering to every last one of her senses, from touch to vision, both of which help a woman taste the pleasure she feels wearing Elie Saab, while hearing the soft music of the dreamy fairy tale as it engulfs her taking in the fresh scent of perfection as these fashionable garments are paraded before the world on the Paris Fashion Week, enticing the female attendees like no other label can.

5

TRADITION

STYLE

with a twist Aigner’s delightful abayas are helping the luxury line mark its 50th anniversary in style

W

orld-renowned brand Aigner, in collaboration with Blue Salon, marks its 50th anniversary with a unique line of apparel, designed especially with Arab women in mind.

Combining the comfort and elegance of the traditional abaya with Aigner’s superb eye for style, the brand’s new collection is available at the Blue Salon showroom and the Aigner boutique at The Pearl, Qatar.

Founded by Etienne Aigner, who was born in Hungary in 1904, and based in New York before moving to Munich, Aigner has built

up devoted followers worldwide in the past half-century, thanks to its ability to adapt to and seek inspiration in diverse cultures. The new line is engineered to perfectly fit the needs of the stylish, yet modest Arab woman, giving traditional local attire a dash of European flair.

Getting the fabric right was crucial for Aigner. The brand’s experts searched for a unique material suited to the needs of Gulf women, finally settling on a light crepe not previously available in the market.

Manufactured and imported especially for Aigner Abaya, the fabric has been designed for comfort, and crafted to hang perfectly when tailored, according to the brand’s unique cut. Signature accessories, including the finest Swarovski crystals and buttons, are enhanced by delicate embroidery, created individually for each garment, to a standard that transforms the finished product from clothing to art.

6

JEWELLERY

Extraordinary stones Graff’s Yellow Diamond This treasure from the Letšeng mine in Lesotho weighed in at a huge 299 carats before cutting, which brought it down to a still-impressive 132.55 carats.

But just a single diamond in every 10,000 is colored, with this necklace joining the ranks of the house’s other legendary yellow stones including the Delaire Sunrise (118.08 carats), the Gemini Yellows (51.29 and 55.74 carats) and the Graff Vivid Yellow, coming in at 100.8 carats.

Remarkable stones are still at the heart of high jewelry, Jewels that hypnotise all who see them are set in skilful and exquisite settings. From flights of fancy to timeless elegance each design has a special story

Cartier’s legendary sapphire The last time this 197.80 carat sapphire cast its spell over us, we had to go to the Grand Palais to admire it under gmass protection. Cartier’s golden touch sculpts diamonds to surround the star of the Etourdissant collection, the radiant Romanov sapphire.

Etourdissant platinum and diamond bracelet, mounted with the 197.80 carat Romanov sapphire

Bulgari’s jadeite teardrop earrings Highest quality jade is sculpted into beautifully rounded tear drop earrings with the kind of generous curves rarely seen in such precious jewels.

White gold, jadeite and diamond fine jewelry earrings

Van Cleef & Arpels’ white coral ring Van Cleef & Arpels delved into the underwater world to craft a ring of turquoise, lapis lazuli and translucent aquamarine, with thoughtful shards of pure white coral adding a very special twist, far from traditional red corals.

White gold, round diamond, round sapphire and mauve, lapis lazuli, turquoise, white coral and 6.31 carat green oval tourmaline Seven Seas ring.

Tiffany & Co.’s black opal The almost surreal variations in this weighty stone complement a wave of brilliant and baguette-cut diamonds with a deep blue ocean light.

The Art of the Sea bracelet, platinum, 17.12 black opal and diamonds

Louis Vuitton Joaillerie denim sapphire Along with deep cobalt Sri Lankan sapphires, the stonewashed blue treasure from the Pein-Pyit mine in the Mogok valley number amongst the world’s rarest.

Especially when the stone in questions weighs in at 20 carats, after faceting.

Acte V ring, grey gold, 20.94 carat Pein-Pyit sapphire, surrounding by 4.20 carats of sapphires and diamonds.

De Beers’ blue diamond We already know De Beers’ blood orange, powder pink and golden yellow diamonds, but this striking ice blue stone set into a curlicue mount is special not only for its color, but also for the absolute perfection of its pear cut. Diamonds of this caliber are usually cut smaller to maintain perfection, but this beauty boasts 2.62 carats without a single flaw.

1888 Master Diamonds ring, white diamonds and a blue pear-cut diamond of 2.62 carats, SI2 purity.

Boucheron’s marble feather Claire Choisne unearthed these astonishing materials in Jodhpur, sculpting marble feathers and diamond necklaces that carry the spirit of the Thar Desert in cabochons of rock crystal and marble, extracted from the same quarry as that which made the Taj Mahal.

Bleu de Jodhpur white gold, marble and diamond brooch

7

JEWELLERY

SEVEN SEAS

CONTEMPLATING THE SEAS

Clapotis necklace White gold, round and pearshaped diamonds, sapphires, one white cultured pearl,one cushioncut green tourmaline of 15.73 carats. The pendant is detachable

FÊe des Mers clip From peaceful shores to the open sea, from foaming breakers to crystalline expanses,Van Cleef & Arpels has let its gaze drift to the far horizon. The everchanging spectacle of the waves and the grace of the sea’s denizens have captivated its senses to inspire a new collection of High Jewelry: Seven Seas.

In a gracefully feminine posture, a sea fairy seems to rest on a chalcedony reef. White gold, yellow gold, round and rose-cut diamonds, blue and yellow sapphires, spessartite and grossular garnets, cabochon-cut chalcedony of 23.64 carats.

8

Trois tortues

Trois tortues clip White gold, diamonds, cabochon-cut sapphires, white mother-of-pearl.

The piece exudes an impression of vivacity, underscored by the volume of their joyful silhouettes

Bleu Absolu necklace

White gold, round, pear-shaped, briolette-cut and baguette-cut diamonds, one pear-shaped DIF diamond of 14.22 carats,5 sapphire drops for a total of 85.86 carats (Cashmere). The necklace is transformable.

Benguerra Long necklace and bracelet

A haven of nature off the coast of Africa, the island of Benguerra has lent its name to this set of exceptional fluidity.The colors’ intensity is accentuated by a stream of white cultured pearls. Delicately caressing the wrist, the bracelet is accompanied by a long necklace that can be transformed into a short necklace, recreating this precious undulation in the neckline.

Mer des etoiles ring

The Mer des etoiles ring is inspired by the natural phenomenon of the same name. The glitter of diamonds and sapphires evokes the thousands of luminescent creatures that seem to reflect the starry sky on the seashore.

Etoile de mer clip

Rouleau Azur bracelet

The deep blue of the open sea, limpid coastal waters, the dazzling white of foam on the sand... The various shades of the Mediterranean come together on this bracelet composed of lapis lazuli, turquoise, pearls and diamonds

Etoile de mer clip: Pink gold, round and pear-shaped diamonds, pink sapphires.

A graceful emblem of aquatic fauna, the starfish has inspired a creation of striking dynamism. In homage to the vitality of nature, this clip unfurls its five asymmetric branches in an effect of movement accentuated by the different cuts of the stones

9

ACCESSORIES

FALL/WINTER 2015

T

he darkness of winter’s night defines the color palette for the CH Carolina Herrera Fall/Winter 2015 Collection with hues of black, grey and camel. Thick fabrications create new silhouettes paired perfectly with the new accessories of the season.

Contrasting volumes create dimension and modernity.

E

legance, shine, textures and a playful miaow are the keywords for the Karl Lagerfeld Autumn/ Winter 2015/16 collection.

The iconic range of Karl Lagerfeld bags and accessories takes its lead from the collection, worked in black, khaki, beige or burgundy.

Stars include the K/Kuilted bucket shape and K/Klassic with its metal chain, as well as the limited edition Choupette capsule with its quirky appliqué.

Geometric details also feature, reflecting one of the season’s main trends, while the K/Kuilted range is now also available with a tweed finish.

The new star is the Pinclosure, a compact geometric shoulder bag with a bold metallic clasp.

10

WOMEN’S ACCESSORIES T

he Fall-Winter 2015 Collection Captures The Heightened, Wordly Elegance Of The Chloe Girl.

Inflected With Romance And A Touch Of Arcadia, Her Story Celebrates Whimsical Classicism As A Modern Day Movement.

Her Nonchalant Spirit Evokes The Essence Of The Outdoors For A Soft Yet Strong Femininity.

M

arrakech meets Chelsea. Inspired by London bohemia , Fall 201 5 focuses on beautifully crafted embellishments, a mix of textures, carefully engineered patterns, bias cuts and the play of masculine and feminine. Accessories - including arrowhead jewelry, small saddlebags to oversized carpetbags, boots with carved metal heels and mules with studs - add to this bold mood . - Tory Burch.

11

LITTLE STYLE

DIOR KIDS COLLECTION

FALL/WINTER 2015 BABY DIOR HAS A VERY SOPHISTICATED AND LUXURY KIDS FASHION LOOK FOR FALL/ WINTER 2015. SHOT IN A BEAUTIFUL OLD PARISIAN THEATRE THE EMPHASIS IS ON DRESSING UP CLOTHES AND SUPERB TAILORING, EVEN THE BLACK LEATHER JACKET HAS A LUXE SMOOTH FEEL TO IT, NOTHING BIKER CHIC ABOUT THESE GIRLS!

THE COLLECTION INCLUDES AN EXCLUSIVE CAPSULE RANGE OF EMBROIDERED HEAVY SILK DRESSES FOR VERY SPECIAL OCCASIONS IN KEEPING WITH WHAT SEEMS TO BE A MOVE TOWARDS AN EVEN MORE EXCLUSIVE CUSTOMER WITH MANY LUXE LOOK BOOK ITEMS TRIMMED IN FUR FOR LATER INTO THE WINTER SEASON.

12

INNOVATION

The New Innovation Ideas That Caught Our Attention This Issue

In Korean cafe, toaster sanitizes smartphones THE GREEN TOASTER IS A SMARTPHONE CLEANING DEVICE PLACED IN CAFES, SO USERS CAN SANITIZE THEIR PHONE WHILE THEY AWAIT THEIR DRINK.

T

here are up to 7000 types of bacteria living on every smartphone, which is unsurprising considering how often they are used, but owners rarely think to clean them. Now, Green Toaster is a sanitizing device created by ad agency Innored and UK-based design school Kinneir Dufort for Korean e-commerce giant Gmarket, which will deep clean any smartphone using UV light, while the customer waits for their drink at a coffee shop.

To begin, users launch the Gmarket app on their smartphone before placing it one of two slots at the top of the Green Toaster. Then they pull down the lever, which draws the phone inside the device — mimicking the action of a normal toaster. The phone is then cleaned using UV light, which sanitizes and kills the micro-organisms on the phone. Once the process is complete, the toast pops up automatically.

Fitness wear uses in-built resistance to improve workouts E ven the most dedicated fitness fanatic has days when they can’t workout for as long as they’d like.

Now, Physiclo — previously known as Rxactive — is a line of fitness wear with built-in resistance that can help wearers achieve significantly more from the same exercise regime — including increased muscle activation and more calories burnt.

Physiclo garments — users can currently choose from leggings or shorts — feature power mesh panels that generate extra resistance by counteracting the motions of the wearer. This increases the wearers heart rate and helps them burn up to 14 percent more calories, as well as increasing the workout of their key leg muscle groups — the hamstrings, quads and glutes — by up to 23 percent. The garments are made from breathable antimicrobial fabric, and are machine washable.

13

PRODUCT

Autum Beauty Essentials With every new season comes an exciting collection of new products from all the major cosmetics houses.

Pink is the theme of Estée Lauder’s new Spring Colour Collection, with soft and feminine mauves and iridescent pinks, infused with sheer red and shimmery pink for lips.

The highlight is a gorgeous new nail polish that’s guaranteed to fly off the shelves the moment it lands. Le Vernis deep grey-black has a very subtle metallic effect and comes in a limited edition set together with a space-age Polished Silver lipstsick. It’s the kind of colour your mother would never let you wear (you’re going to love it!)

Its incomplete without fragrance. While most perfumers agree that simple and sweet, fruity florals are the scent of preference for women and girls.

A woman who doesn’t wear perfume has no future -Coco Chanel

M

anifold and universal, the Dior woman is above all free.

Her makeup is a reflection of her wants, her needs and her many facets. For this very woman, Peter Philips, Creative and Image Director for Dior Makeup, has created his first collection of colors. Like a manifesto of freedom for each and every woman, the collection promises plural forms of beauty, a “Cosmopolite” beauty.

14

The new beauty secret from Guerlain

G

uerlain Research is revealing the Beauty Cleansers line and bringing a real skincare dimension to make-up removal.

The debris of the day vanishes at a touch and skin recovers its radiance and can breathe.

Dior Cosmopolite Collection for Autumn 2015

Bobbi Brown Greige Collection for Autumn 2015

B

obbi Brown’s new collection Greige features a palette of greys and browns for smoky eyes, gorgeous trio liners, and also some new products for face, lips and nails.

There is a really cool Greige Eye Palette, which includes both matte an metallic smoky greys and browns, there are 8 shades. There are also three shades of Intense Pigment Liners which come in Black Plum, Forest and Midnight, Smokey Eye Mascara, Brightening Brick in Pink and nailpolish.

Tom Ford Fall 2015 Collection

T

he idea of the gorgeous Marsala runway color has its own reflection in the shades of the products designed for fall.

There are four new Tom Ford Eye and Cheek Shadows in the following shades: Pink, Peach, Bronze and Plum. Color Collection also features four Tom Ford Ultra Shine Lip Glosses in Naked, Peach Absolute, Sugar Pink and Bruise. ‘High-shine, color-saturated gloss designed to achieve bold and glamorous lips. Its smooth and creamy texture has high adherence and easy comfort’. Each lipgloss can easily be worn alone or over the lipstick to increase shine.

Christian Louboutin To Launch Lip Color Range

C

hristian Louboutin Beauty will be adding a Lip Color range. The Silky Satin range will have 20 shades, the Velvet Matte range will have 9 highlysaturated shades, and the Sheer Voile range will contain 9 sheerer shades.

Bottega Veneta - Knot

A

s with Bottega Veneta’s signature fragrance, the Knot’s bottle is inspired by Venetian glasswork and the traditional Italian carafe, having naturally evolved unto itself. Combining soft, rounded curves and powerful lines, the bottle is an object of timeless beauty and pleasing simplicity. The bottle’s oro matte cap is its most distinctive design element; as the fragrance’s name is an homage to Bottega Veneta’s beloved Knot clutch, Tomas Maier designed the cap to echo thebag’s iconic knot-shaped closure. The result is a vessel with the luxurious feel of the finest of jewelry.

15

BEAUTY

6 Incredible Beauty Benefits of

Drinking Enough Water

L

ooking for a beauty boost? Grab a glass of water. We all know that water is important for our health—but did you know all of the amazing things it could do for your appearance? Believe it or not, drinking enough water each and every day can be the answer to your biggest beauty problems be it dull skin, brittle nails, and even thinning hair.

So how water much is enough? “The average person requires 48 to 64 ounces (or 6 to 8 cups) of fluids per day,” says dietitian Amanda Foti of Selvera. And by fluids, the expert doesn’t mean soda or other sugary beverages. If you don’t love the taste of plain old water and struggle to consume the proper amount, unsweetened tea or coffee are also healthy options (just limit your caffeine intake to no more than two cups a day so you won’t have trouble falling asleep later on). Or you can try tossing in a lemon slice or a splash of fruit juice to add a hint of flavor.

Here are 6 reasons why water might be beauty’s best kept secret:

It Makes Skin Glow Adequate H20 doesn’t just quench your thirst and keep you hydrated. It also helps your body flush out toxins more efficiently, leaving your skin looking fresh and more radiant as a result.

It Makes Nails Stronger Brittle nails that constantly break and peel can be a sign of dehydration. By sipping on

16

more water on a daily basis, you’ll promote nail growth and prevent dry, flaky cuticles.

It Fights Aging Truthfully, a gallon a day won’t magically erase fine lines and wrinkles. But by staying hydrated, you can maintain your skin’s natural elasticity and suppleness. To turn back the clock with topical treatments, shop our editors’ favorite anti-aging products here.

It Cures Sunburn Even those who practice sun safety can fall victim to a nasty sunburn in the scorching summer months. The good news? Other than stocking up on aloe-infused formulas, drinking plenty of water can speed up the healing process, says Foti.

It Clears Acne Another beautiful part about washing away toxins is that it can prevent acne flare ups and other common skin issues. Celebrity facialist Renee Rouleau recommends squeezing a fresh lemon into a cup of hot water and drinking it first thing in the morning.

It Reduces Hair Loss One more reason to make water your BFF? “Your hair is one-quarter water, so when you do not drink adequate fluids your body conserves water for other vital organs,” adds Foti. “This can lead to hair loss, thinning, and breakage.”

DECOR

Wallpaper designs for your dining room Dining rooms are ideal spaces to show off large-scale wallpaper designs that might be too overpowering in a bedroom, for instance. Paper all four walls in a bold pattern, making it the star of the show by keeping the rest of the dĂŠcor pared back. Contrasts create interest in a scheme, so team a modern, pale wood pedestal table with elegant dining chairs in linen slip covers.

T

he colors in the dining room have big impact to the desired atmosphere. You should choose some soothing color, and should use just a few decorations, if you want to make peaceful and pleasant place. If you want to make sophisticated dining room, we suggest you to use some interesting wallpaper. It will change the whole look in the room, and in the same time you will have wonderful decorations without spending a lot money. Beside that, you can change the wallpaper whenever you want.

Check out our brilliant ideas in the collection below, and maybe you will get inspired!

If you choose a dark dominant wallpaper design, coordinate it with a contrasting colour on the ceiling and woodwork and team with white crockery and glassware to lift the scheme. The same applies with a bold choice of pattern, as you do not want to overwhelm the room. If in doubt wallpaper one feature wall and keep the rest of the room simple, but tie the scheme together with a similar fabric on window treatments and table linen? take a look at the wallpaper and fabric collections available from companies such as Harlequin, Sanderson and Prestigious who provide a coordinated

selection.

Open-plan kitchen/dining rooms are a little more difficult to deal with when it comes to choosing wallpaper, as manydesigns are not suitable for hot and steamy kitchens. Try zoning the room bywallpapering the area you use as the dining space and painting or tiling the kitchen area in a complementary colour. Again tie the scheme together with fabric or kitchen accessories using the same colour in both parts of the room.

Wallpaper is a great way to add the wow factor to your dining room, so take a look at our top ten ideas on how you can transform your dining space in an instant.

Once you’ve decided on your dining room wallpaper style, make sure you don’t ruin the design with clutter!

Check out our dining room storage ideas which will help.

Open-plan dining room In an open-plan room that has both a living and dining area, try visually zoning the room by wallpapering the wall nearest the dining table. Choose a pattern that includes colours from both parts of the room to tie the scheme together.

17

HAIR

8 REASONS Why Your Hair May Not Be Growing

MANY WOMEN LOOK TO HAIR PRODUCTS AND HAIR MAINTENANCE FOR LONG HEALTHY HAIR. HEALTHY EATING AND EXERCISE ALSO PLAY A PART, BUT NOT A LOT OF ATTENTION IS GIVEN TO THE REASONS WHY HAIR IS SHEDDING, BREAKING, GROWING SLOWER THAN NORMAL OR WHY THE HAIR IS NOT GROWING AT ALL

Diet Stress Lack of Protein Age 18

Supplements Hormonal Imbalance Under-active Thyroid Low Iron

Your Diet Not eating a healthy diet and vitamin deficiencies can change the condition of the hair and cause the hair to move out the growing stage and to shed too quickly. It is important to have the correct levels of vitamin B12, zinc and ferritin to maintain the hair length and quality you want.

Solution: The proper intake of nutrients will provide nourishment or your hair to grow and supplements such as biotin pills can help to strengthen hair.

Stress Having high stress levels, including emotional and physical, can trigger hair loss and the decreased quality of hair.

Solution: Treat yourself with relaxing activities such as a facial, hair mask or a massage. These treatments will improve your mental state and your appearance.

FROM YOUR DIET TO STRESS OR EVEN AN UNDER-ACTIVE THYROID, HERE ARE SOME POSSIBLE REASONS WHY YOUR HAIR IS NOT GROWING Lack of Protein A diet low in protein or with no protein at all, can lead to hair breakage, hair loss and even no hair growth. Protein is needed for hair strength and to prevent brittleness and breakage.

Solution: Add protein to your diet by eating high-quality protein foods such as fish, poultry, beans, seeds and nuts.

Supplements Taking supplements that you do not need in excess can also lead to hair loss.

Solution: Go see your family doctor for some blood work, if you believe that you are lacking in vital vitamins and minerals before starting any supplements.

As women get older, the hair tends to become weaker.

Around the age of 45, oil production on the scalp begin to slow down, leaving the hair less hydrated and coarser looking.

Solution: Use an oil like Aragon oil on your hair to restore moisture, stop using harsh chemicals on your hair and use protein-rich hair treatments and take hair vitamins with biotin and silica to help strengthen hair.

Hormonal Imbalance Women are known to produce small amounts of testosterone and larger amounts of estrogen, the balance between these hormones can affect hair growth. Testosterone in high levels causes scalp hair to thin and shed.

Solution: If you notice any problems with hair thinning and shedding or with your menstrual cycle, go to your family doctor for a hormone check.

Age

Low Iron Iron is necessary for hair strength, to prevent brittleness and breakage in the hair. Low iron in women can cause excessive hair loss.

Solution: If you believe that you may suffer from low iron, a simple check up at your family doctor will be able to verify any concerns. Using a supplement with iron can restore the balance of the hair and improve hair quality.

Under-active Thyroid An under-active thyroid switches the hair that should be in the growing stage to the hair in the shedding stage.

Solution: If you believe that you have an underactive thyroid, get a thyroid check from your doctor, but supplementing with synthetic hormones helps to rebalance the hair stages.

19

SKINCARE

Mistakes Skincare Addicts Make

You wash your face before bed. You never skip sunscreen. You exfoliate once a week. Yet you could be sabotaging yourself. Time to make over your skin care with these simple tweaks

Over Exfoliating

Skin enthusiasts love a good serum— layering vitamin E serums and serums with AHAs, calming serums, and hyalucronic serums, but as fantastic as serums are, they don’t make up for skipping out on using a moisturizer.

Double up on serums if you choose, but always follow with a lightweight moisturizer.

Retire Your Brush Head This goes for makeup brushues too, but people often over look the brushead of their facial brushes. Brushheads should be replaced every three months at least. Bacteria can build-up in the fibers of your brush bristles and cut back on the efficacy of your morning wash routine by spreading bacteria to various parts of your face We all love the feeling of freshly buffed skin, but using a facial brush twice a day everyday may do more harm than good. Try changing to using a tool once a day if you have oily skin, or a few times a week if you have sensitive skin.

Combination Skincare Relying on your cosmetics for full SPF protection is not the best solution for your skin. You need to wear a daily SPF of at least 30. It’s also important to remember that SPF s not accumulative so, wearing a BB cream with SPF15 and bronzer with the same amount does not equate to wearing an SPF of 30.

Double-Duty Serum 22

Neglected Décolletage Don’t forget to focus on your neck and chest area when washing your face. The skin in these areas is delicate and should be treated with care. The same products that you splurge on for your face should also be applied to your neck and décolletage—yes, anti-aging products included.

Skipping eye cream The skin around your eyes is extremely thin and delicate, which means it requires specialized care. Apply eye cream twice daily to prevent dehydration, fine lines, wrinkles, and sagging. We recommend starting in your early twenties – but it’s always better late than never.

How Anti-Aging Creams Get Old Too Fast

SCIENTISTS EXAMINE SKINCARE INGREDIENTS AND INDUSTRY CLAIMS, SAID CONCERNS ABOUT JAR HYGIENE ARE LARGELY MISGUIDED

W

omen who like the decadent feel of scooping up pricey wrinkle creams with their fingers may want to re-evaluate their favorite beauty packaging.

Jars, the more opulent the better, have long been a favorite of cosmetic marketers. But some of the most common ingredients in anti-aging formulas, like retinol and other antioxidants, are highly unstable, meaning that they break down when exposed to air and light. Paula Begoun, the founder of Beautypedia.com, which rates skin-care products, has long opposed jar packaging.

“Anything you can do to reduce the vulnerability of these ingredients by keeping them as much as possible out of the air and light means that the ingredients that you’re banking on to improve your skin will be there after you open the product,” Begoun said.

Sales of anti-aging facial cream sold in plastic jars dropped 6.8 percent in the United States, and those in glass jars dropped 4.5 percent, from 2009 to 2014, according to data from the market research firm Euromonitor.

Over the same period, sales of anti-aging products sold in squeezable plastic tubes grew 14.3 percent; those in plastic bottles,

which commonly house popular airless pump systems, rose 14.2 percent. Olay sells many moisturizers in jars, but in-house testing found that formulations with retinol fared poorly in the containers, said Frauke Neuser, a scientist at Procter & Gamble, which owns the brand. “We know that retinol is very oxygen sensitive and degrades,” Neuser said. “We certainly wouldn’t put an Olay product with retinol into a jar because we want our product to be just as efficacious and great at the end as it was at the very first.” Dr. Elizabeth K. Hale, a clinical associate professor of dermatology at the NYU system in it, that’s not really an issue,” Romanowski said. But he advised against jars for any natural products that are preservative free. As for maintaining efficacy, Romanowski said that while an airtight package is ideal, the actual advantage it adds is negligible. In jars, he said, only the surface of products is exposed. “The stuff in the middle is not getting exposed to air, just the stuff on top,” he said. Redding, having written about the comparative appeal of jars and moreprotective packaging for a decade, arrived at her own preference.

“I do think that products in jars are safe to use, and have been tested for effectiveness, but after learning everything I now know about airless packages, I prefer them,” she wrote in an email. “Plus, for a product that contains more natural ingredients and less preservatives, which I am always looking for as a consumer, an airless package is essential.” Begoun of Beautypedia.com gets an earful from women whose favorite products are in the container she loathes. “What I get from a lot of women about a product in a jar is, ‘Well, I like it,’” she said, adding that her response is the same as for women who like sunbathing: “‘Well, it’s not good for your skin. What do you want from me?’” Sidebar: Containers, a Comparison While glass jars have drawn criticism for leaving anti-aging products susceptible to air,

light and germs, they have no shortage of fans.

Here, some commonly cited advantages and disadvantages of beauty product containers.

Pros: Elegant looking. Sensory appeal of scooping out product with fingers. No wasted product. Cons: Anti-aging ingredients degrade with exposure to light and air. Potential for contamination from fingers. May require more preservatives. When dropped, can break - or chip tile floors. PLASTIC SQUEEZE TUBES Pros: Lightweight and usually leakproof for travel. Admit less air and light, helping preserve active ingredients. Often small and easier to use on the go or to stash in a drawer.

Cons: Appearance can resemble an ointment.

Some don’t stand upright as well, or at all, on a dresser or sink. Too much product can squirt out, especially with thin formulations. Small amount of product can get stranded inside.

AIRLESS PUMPS Pros: Best protection from air, light and bacteria. Allow precise dosing for potent formulas, like one pump (rather than “pea-sized”). Ease of dispensing runny serums. May contain fewer preservatives.

Cons: Appearance too clinical for those who like jars. If pump mechanism breaks, product can be stranded inside or leak in a bag. Can be impossible to know how much product is left.

23

HEALTH

New Moms Can Avoid Back Injury When Caring For Their Babies

NEW MOMS NEED TO REDUCE THEIR RISK OF PAIN AND INJURY WHEN LIFTING AND CARRYING THEIR BABIES.

N

ew moms need to reduce their risk of pain and injury when lifting and carrying their babies, an expert says.

“Initially, mothers may start off lifting their child of seven to 10 pounds numerous times per day. Slowly, the weight load increases and if the proper lifting techniques aren’t used, this can lead to back strain,” Dr. Sabrina Strickland, an orthopedic surgeon and a spokeswoman for the American Academy of Orthopaedic Surgeons, said in an academy news release.

After getting their doctor’s OK, new moms can begin exercising to restore muscle tone to their abdomen and back, Strickland said. While baby naps, mothers should spend 10 minutes a day on the floor doing strengthening and stretching routines. This will help restore hip and back flexibility and strength, she said.

Strickland also advises moms to start eating a healthy diet immediately after giving birth and try to return to a normal weight within six months.

Both moms and dads can use the following tips to prevent back pain and injury: Don’t lift your baby with outstretched arms.

Instead, bring the baby close to your chest and

24

then lift. Do not twist your body. When picking up a child from the floor, bend at your knees, not at your waist. Squat down, tighten your stomach muscles and lift with your legs.

Remove the tray when putting a baby in or taking a baby out of a high chair. When lifting a baby out of a crib, bring the baby close to you while slightly bending your knees.

Use a “front pack” to carry your baby when walking. Try not to carry your child on your hip, because it overloads the back muscles. If you must do so, alternate sides.

Prevent upper back pain while nursing by bringing the baby to your breast, rather than bending over the baby. While nursing, use a pillow or specially designed nursing pillow to elevate the baby.

RELATIONSHIP

th a M ’ s d i fK O t lp o e o H R ’ e s r t a n re Squ a P r i e h :T y t e i x n A

A

common impairment with lifelong consequences turns out to be highly contagious between parent and child, a new study shows.

The impairment? Math anxiety.

Means of transmission? Homework help.

Children of highly math-anxious parents learned less math and were more likely to develop math anxiety themselves, but only when their parents provided frequent help on math homework, according to a study of first- and second-graders, published in Psychological Science.

Researchers tested 438 children from 29 public and private schools in three Midwestern states for math ability as well as math anxiety, at the beginning and end of the school year. Their parents completed questionnaires about math anxiety, and about how often they helped their children with homework.

“The parents are not out to sabotage their kids,” said Sian L. Beilock, a cognitive psychologist at the University of Chicago and the author of “Choke,” about anxiety and performance. “But we have to ensure their input is productive. They need to have an awareness of their own math anxiety and that what you say is important.”

The research results come as no surprise to Jennifer Hare of Aspers, Pa., who has a third-grader and a sixth-grader, and two more on the school runway. In college, Hare, a daughter of math-anxious parents, switched majors just to avoid required math courses.

For decades, researchers have looked at the effect of high math anxiety, which, some studies show, can afflict 10-20% of adults. Math anxiety affects not only test taking and grades but also self-esteem and everyday computational skills. (How many gallons of paint for two coats of your living room? Can you convert a double-layer cake recipe into a triple-layer?)

Mark H. Ashcraft, an expert on math anxiety at the University of Nevada, Las Vegas, explains that the condition can feed upon itself. “On challenging math problems that require a lot of working memory, math-anxious people fall apart,” he said.

Their working memory is consumed by worry and anxiety, “and they don’t have enough left over to do the math.”

Many adults identify middle school algebra as the onset of math anxiety. Research has shown that it can begin earlier.

In a 2010 study, Beilock’s team found one significant factor, particularly for young girls: mathanxious elementary school teachers, almost 90% of whom are female.

But the effect of math-anxious, homeworkhelping parents is a newly discovered factor.

Parental math anxiety is exacerbated whenever schools introduce new methods of learning math, said Harris Cooper, a professor of psychology and neuroscience at Duke University, who has studied the effects of homework.

“Educators can’t take math, turn it into Greek, and say, ‘Mom, Dad, will you help your kid with this,’ and not expect to get a ‘wha?’” he said.

How can math-anxious parents help their children at math? Cooper suggests that parents of young children create a math-positive environment by modeling “math behavior.” The game plan: Tell your child, “You have your math homework, and I have mine,” he said, and show them whenever you “count your change, calculate when dinner will be ready, look at prices in a grocery store.”

Sweeney, of Floral Park, N.Y., acquired her math anxiety in the third grade, when she had to stand in front of the class and recite multiplication tables.

When her older son was in the third grade, she would scan his math homework and email it to her husband, who was working in Europe.

“He would conference-call us because I was so paralyzed with anxiety,” Sweeney said. “I would yell, ‘I’m done with it, I can’t do it!’”

Finally she said to herself, “Math isn’t going away.”

So she studied the school’s math curriculum. She asked teachers for manuals and lesson plans and watched videos.

“Some of the other moms are annoyed at me,” Sweeney said. “But I didn’t mind putting in that time, because I needed to feel confident. I don’t want my sons to be as math-anxious as me.”

“And,” she noted, “in the last year or so, I actually think the math has gotten a little easier.”

MATH ANXIETY AFFECTS NOT ONLY TEST-TAKING AND GRADES BUT ALSO SELF-ESTEEM AND EVERYDAY COMPUTATIONAL SKILLS

25

FINE LIVING

Some Organizing ‘Tricks’ That Are Actually Huge Mistakes 1Plastic three-drawer containers HAVING “A PLACE FOR EVERYTHING AND EVERYTHING IN ITS PLACE” DOESN’T NECESSARILY MEAN YOU’RE ORGANIZED -- IT JUST MEANS YOU HAVE ENOUGH SPACE TO BECOME A BORDERLINE HOARDER. BEFORE YOU CROWN YOURSELF QUEEN OF ORGANIZATION, MAKE SURE YOU’RE NOT MAKING THESE BLUNDERS.

Think hard before investing in this staple of college dorm living. Do you really need another piece of disposable furniture?

Or could you find a place for your things if you took 15 minutes to clean out your cabinets or drawers? Before you add more clutter to your home , purge your junk.

2Too many shelves and boxes

Before you overdo it on the extra shelves and sets of matching boxes, do a hard edit of your things so that you’re not just making space for even more stuff you don’t need.

3Covering up shelves with curtains

Tacking curtains or fabric over shelves is a quick way to cover up unsightly clutter, but it’s just a temporary fix. Before masking what’s underneath, ask yourself if you’d want visitors to see what you’re hiding.

4Trays that don’t slide

Installing storage systems in lower

kitchen and bathroom cabinets is a great way to organize everything from pots and pans to makeup. However, this is all for naught unless the individual shelving trays slide in an out of the unit for easy access.

5Shoe racks on the floor

If you’re closet space is already limited, you’re only wasting more square footage with a shoe rack. Instead, find one that you can hang over the door or from a hanging bar.

6Opaque plastic tubs

It might seem like a good idea to store seasonal items in opaque containers, but spending an afternoon rooting through tubs that could hold anything from pool noodles to holiday lights defeats the purpose. Instead, opt for clear containers so you can see the contents at a glance.

all the cleaning supplies in 7Storing one space It sounds like a good idea to have all your buckets, mops, and cleaning sprays in the same spot, but it can be wildly inconvenient — especially if you live in a multi-level home. If you want to keep all your deep-clean supplies in the same spot, fine, but make sure to stock the bathroom and kitchen with wipes and other items for quick touchups.

that doesn’t pull double 8Furniture duty If you live in a small space, you don’t have the luxury of an attic, basement and tons of closets, so when you buy new furniture, make sure it’s more than just pretty. Opt for items like ottomans with storage, nightstands with drawers, and coffee tables with space underneath.

9Too many wall hooks

There’s no arguing that wall hooks are a quick, easy way to keep an entryway looking neat. The problem is when hooks become a dumping ground, like when you leave your winter scarves and coats hanging up until July.

Instead of adding more hooks, ask yourself if you really need quick access to everything that’s already hanging there.

26

Move Over, ‘New Vintage’: Contemporary Furniture Gets Lighter, Cleaner

T

he Contour coffee table by the New York City-based design firm Bower is one sexy piece of furniture.

It has a smooth curved base made of lacquered white wood, with a top of delicately veined Calacatta Paonazzo marble that’s inset at one end with glass tinted peachy pink. The effect is somehow cool and warm, contemporary and retro. You can picture it decorating the apartment of Richard Gere’s character in “American Gigolo,” cast in soft morning-after light.

The Contour series (there are coffee, dining and side tables) is also one of the more striking examples of a nascent design trend.

For years, design in New York and elsewhere has been dominated by the “new vintage” look, with its love of taxidermy and salvaged barn wood, its nostalgia for dark hunting cabins and 19th-century gentleman’s clubs.

What design insiders are seeing lately is a brighter, lighter, more contemporary aesthetic, one that still favors organic materials but with a more refined sensibility and cleaner lines.

To the eye of Glenn Adamson, director of the Museum of Arts and Design in New York City, the look possesses a “lightness of touch, a low-key feeling.”

For Newell Turner, editorial director of the Hearst Design Group, there’s “a lot of influence from Scandinavian design.”

Jill Singer, design writer and co-founder of the online magazine Sight Unseen, can’t give it a pithy label (“I’m not a good namer,” she said), but she isn’t at a loss to describe what she is seeing: “Extremely sophisticated palette.

Mixing of materials. It’s been percolating for a long time.”

Think 1970s instead of 1870s. Vancouver instead of Portland, Oregon. As Singer said, “My partner and I were joking that the new ‘Put a bird on it’ is ‘Put a cactus in it.’”

The look was much in evidence at Sight Unseen Offsite, an annual design fair by

Singer’s publication, held in New York City last May to coincide with the International Contemporary Furniture Fair.

Designers exhibiting at Offsite, including Bower, favored blond or bleached woods and polished metals like brass and copper. Peach, white and sky-blue tones were in abundance; furniture and lighting mixed wood with sumptuous materials like marble and bronze.

“Three years ago when we started, we only made things out of wood,” said Danny Giannella, who founded Bower with Tammer Hijazi. “It was limiting, and we liked mixing materials. We liked the veining of this marble.”

In addition to the Contour tables, the firm was showing C Lights made of curved brass tubes and opal glass globes and a series of Line wall mirrors, in silver, black and copper, created from 20 pieces of glass precision-cut by water jet.

Like many designers who began their careers during the recession, Dylan Davis

and Jean Lee, the team behind Ladies & Gentlemen, started by repurposing vintage items and selling them on the e-commerce website Etsy. “We still have the sensibility of making something simple and playful,” Davis said, “but direct vintage references have been replaced with a more reductionistic approach.”

Ian Collings, a founder of Fort Standard, said he also has grown more experimental and current. His recent designs are, in part, a reaction to the “live-edge and rustic features” of the new vintage aesthetic, he said, which made every restaurant interior (and many people’s living rooms) resemble a turn-of-thelast-century apothecary.

There is, it seems, a fatigue with all those mounted deer heads and chunky farm tables that overtook the New York City borough of Brooklyn’s hipper neighborhoods over the last decade and was imported to parts of Los Angeles, Paris and elsewhere.

Frank de Biasi, a New York-based interior designer, said that the first time he entered Freemans, the New York City restaurant stuffed with antiques and taxidermy that arguably kicked off the trend, he marveled.

“I thought it was the coolest thing to have something so rough, so undone,” de Biasi said.

“Would I want to live there? Probably not.”

While it’s fine to appreciate American heritage, he said, “We can move on, embrace something that’s more designed.”

You can find the new look in the marbletop credenzas and consoles by Egg Collective at Design Within Reach; in the Fancy Chic low table with a copper-plated base at Ligne Roset; and in the stunning Elliott coffee table

by Minotti made of polished gold sides and a rose marble top.

The look is starting to show up in commercial settings, too, in places like Anthom, a women’s clothing boutique in New York, and the New York Edition Hotel, which Ian Schrager recently opened.

So what is this new look called? Phrases like new modernism and post-vintage have been bandied about, but so far nothing has stuck. In the meantime, maybe, taxidermy 2.0? After all, the designers working in this lighter, more sophisticated vein have retained the core values of new vintage: handmade, organic materials, a respect for heritage and designed to last.

27

MOTIVATION

What Really Motivates Workers In Their 20S

I

t is said that that young workers are a contemptible bunch. They’re “lazy,” and lack the work ethic of their elders. They have an overblown sense of entitlement, believing they can walk right into a plum job in their early 20s rather than work their way up the ladder. They might even be a generation of narcissists, a consequence of their overindulgent parents and a culture that favors giving every kid on the soccer team a trophy just for showing up.

These stereotypes disintegrate quickly when exposed to the harsh light of research evidence. For the past 20 years I have been studying 18- to 29-year-olds, a stage of life I call “emerging adulthood.” Young people grow up later than they did in the past, in terms of entering adult commitments such as stable work, marriage and parenthood. The rise of emerging adulthood does not mean that young people today are defective; rather, that it takes longer to prepare for the workplace than before and that they (wisely) want to enjoy a brief period of freedom before settling into adult responsibilities. My research has shown that the negative stereotypes are mostly false and today’s emerging adults are a remarkably idealistic, hard-striving generation.

A recent 2015 Clark University Poll of Emerging Adults asked a national sample of 1,000 21- to 29-year-olds a wide range of questions related to education and the entry to work. The results provide important

28

information for anyone who works with or employs emerging adults. Some highlights: - Emerging adults are not lazy, but they are often not fully committed to the job. Most see themselves as diligent workers; 89% agreed that “No matter what job I am doing, I try to do it as well as possible.” However, 40%

admitted that “On a normal work day, I try to get by with doing as little work as possible.”

This blasé attitude may be because many of them are currently in transition jobs; 46% agreed that “My job with my current employer is temporary.”

- They are willing to work their way up, but not to be exploited. Emerging adults recognize that it takes time to gain expertise, which often means doing the lower-level work for a while; 78% agreed that “If I were in a boring job, I would be patient and try to move up within the company.” On the other hand, they believe that good faith should go both ways; 54% agreed that “If employers do not pay me well, they do not deserve my best work effort.”

- Many emerging adults are distracted by social media while on the job. They have been called a generation of “digital natives” who grew up with social media as second nature, in contrast to their mostly “digital immigrant” employers, who came to social media later and often grudgingly. In the 2015 Clark Poll results, 54% agreed that “I do not see anything wrong with checking my Facebook page, tweeting or texting with friends now and then in the course of a normal work day.” One suspects their employers might disagree.

So what is the bottom line for their older colleagues who are puzzled by these young workers? Give them a chance to show who they are and what they can do. Don’t assume they are going to fulfill your worst expectations.

They may not be as diligent as you would like them to be, or as focused on work that is more important to you than it is to them at this transitional time of their lives. But they are eager to find engaging work that they can enjoy and to do something important that can make a positive contribution to the world around them. If you can find ways to direct their energy and idealism in productive ways, they may surprise you.

W

hat causes people to risk their lives to help strangers?

Recently, three young American men and a British businessman thwarted a gunman’s attack on a French passenger train, acting within seconds and at enormous personal risk.

When interviewed afterward, they stressed the unthinking nature of their actions. “It was just gut instinct,” said one, in a characteristic remark. “It wasn’t really a conscious decision.”

This turns out to be typical of heroes. Last year, one of us, David Rand, together with his colleague Ziv Epstein, conducted an analysis of recipients of the Carnegie Medal for heroism, which is awarded to those who risk their lives for others.

After collecting interviews given by 51 recipients and evaluating the transcripts, we found that the heroes overwhelmingly described their actions as fast and intuitive, and virtually never as carefully reasoned.

This was true even in cases where the heroes had sufficient time to stop and think. Christine Marty, a college student who rescued a 69-yearold woman trapped in a car during a flash flood, said she was grateful that she didn’t take the time to reflect: “I’m thankful I was able to act and not think about it.” We found almost no examples of heroes whose first impulse was for selfpreservation but who overcame that impulse with a conscious, rational decision to help.

It is striking that our brute instincts, rather than our celebrated higher cognitive faculties, are what lead to such moral acts. But why would anyone ever develop such potentially fatal instincts?

One possible explanation is that in most everyday situations, helping others pays off in the long run. You buy lunch for a friend or pitch in to help a colleague meet a tight deadline, and you find yourself repaid in kind, or even more, down the road. So it’s beneficial to develop a reflex to help - especially because the cost to you is usually quite small.

It is also possible that there is a benefit to developing a reputation as someone who helps without thinking: You are treated as more trustworthy, precisely because you won’t deliberate your way out of helping when doing so entails considerable personal risk. For heroic instincts to arise this way, the benefits must ultimately outweigh the costs - including the risk of the very rare but very dangerous situation (e.g., subduing a gunman).

Do they in fact outweigh the costs? To find out, let’s consider a game theory model called he “envelope game,” introduced last year in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences by one of us, Erez Yoeli, and two colleagues.

In the game, there are two players who interact repeatedly. In each interaction, Player 1 has the opportunity to help Player 2. Helping Player 2 always carries some cost for Player 1. While that cost is usually small, sometimes it turns out to be enormous.

CHAT

The Trick to Acting Heroically What makes the game interesting is that before Player 1 decides whether to help, he has the option of opening a sealed envelope containing a description of the cost to him of helping. Player 2, meanwhile, observes not only whether Player 1 decides to help but also whether Player 1 opens the envelope - that is, does he think through the risk before deciding to help? Or does he just help without thinking? Then Player 2 decides whether to continue the relationship (i.e., to trust Player 1) or end it.

In what circumstances will Player 2 choose to interact with Player 1 only if Player 1 doesn’t look? And in what circumstances will Player 1 find it worthwhile to cultivate the trust of Player 2 by not looking, even though this risks incurring a huge cost?

The model shows that the tendency to help without looking wins out when: (1) the cost of helping is typically small (so that the benefit to Player 1 of Player 2’s continuing the relationship makes helping worthwhile on average) but is sometimes so big that if Player 1 were to look at this cost he would certainly not help; (2) if Player 1 doesn’t help, this is really harmful to Player 2; and (3) the long-term relationship is valuable to Player 1.

When such conditions are met, as they often are in real-life relationships, instinctive helping beats stopping to think.

Much has been made of the military training of two of the Americans on the French train, and the envelope game helps to explain why. While many heroes have no military or other formal training, a sizable proportion do. The military hones soldiers’ cooperative instincts in an environment that has all of the required characteristics: Soldiers occasionally find themselves helping others at enormous personal risk; and they live, train and work together for relatively long periods, during which they have plenty of opportunities to observe whether a peer helps others without thinking.

Every day, decent folk do good. But as the recent heroics in France remind us, heroes don’t just do good - they do good instinctively.

29

FITNESS

For Athletes, the Risk ARE WE, WITH THE BEST OF INTENTIONS, PUTTING YOUNG ATHLETES AT RISK WHEN WE URGE THEM TO DRINK LOTS OF FLUIDS DURING STEAMY SPORTS PRACTICES AND GAMES?

30

of too Much Water A

new report about overhydration in sports suggests that under certain circumstances the answer is yes, and that the consequences for young athletes can be - and in several tragic cases already have been - severe and even fatal.

Visit a practice for high school football, soccer or other team sports at this time of year, when temperatures can be high and earlyseason fitness marginal, and you are likely to see repeated water breaks and exhortations by the coaches and parents to drink up.

“A lot of people, including coaches, think that it is dangerous for athletes to get dehydrated, even a little dehydrated,” said Kevin Miller, an associate professor of athletic training at Central Michigan University in Mount Pleasant, Mich., and co-author of the new report.

The coaches and others worry that dehydration leads to muscle cramping and possibly heat illnesses, including serious heat stroke. So, hoping to keep their athletes healthy and safe, they press them to drink fluids before, during and after a practice, whether the athletes feel thirsty or not.

And if an athlete should develop cramps or feel excessively hot during the workout, they are told to down even more fluids, and if the cramps continue, still more, “until, before you know it, a player will have drunk a gallon or two of fluid or even more,” Miller said, “which is something that we know actually happens.”

The problem with this situation is that, according to the latest science, dehydration during sports is rarely if ever dangerous, but overhydration undeniably is.

Last year, for instance, in a heartbreaking incident, a high school football player in Georgia experienced cramps during practice, and hoping to alleviate them, began gulping large amounts of water and Gatorade. By the end of the practice, he had swallowed about four gallons of fluid, according to media reports. Not long afterward, he collapsed at home and was rushed by helicopter to the hospital, where, several days later, he died.

At least two other high school football players are known to have died since 2008 from drinking too much fluid during and after a practice, Miller said. These players had developed a rare condition, he said, known formally as exercise-associated hyponatremia and less technically as water intoxication.

Hyponatremia occurs when someone consumes so much fluid that his or her body can’t rid itself of the surplus through sweating or urination. As a result, water levels rise in the bloodstream and sodium levels, diluted, fall.

Osmosis then draws water from the blood into the surrounding cells of the body to equalize sodium levels there, and those cells begin to swell like water balloons. If this process occurs in the brain, it can be lethal.

Until recently, hyponatremia had been associated almost exclusively with marathon races and other prolonged endurance events, especially among slow racers, who tended to sweat little but drink copiously, often for hours on end. But as the new report, which presents updated hydration guidelines developed by a consortium of scientific experts, points out, exercise-associated hyponatremia “is now being reported in a more diverse set of sporting activities,” including half-marathons, sprint triathlons, Grand Canyon hikes, Bikram yoga classes, and, of course, team sport practices and games, especially football, at the professional, collegiate and now high school level.

“What is sad is that every case” of exerciseassociated hyponatremia “is preventable,” Miller said.

The key, he said, is for athletes to drink when they feel thirsty - not before and not after they feel sated. “You do not need to ‘stay ahead of your thirst,’ as many people think,” he said.

Listening to your “innate thirst mechanism” provides a safe and reliable guide to hydration, the new report concludes.

This strategy also should not increase players’ risks for cramping or heat illness, Miller said, since, “based on current evidence,

it does not appear that dehydration directly contributes” to those problems.

During recent telling experiments that he directed, for instance, volunteers who exercised and sweated in the heat until they had become severely dehydrated were no more prone to muscle cramps than they had been at the start.

Similarly, if perhaps more surprising, other studies have found that being dehydrated does not increase athletes’ susceptibility to heat problems, and that athletes who collapse from heat illness often are quite well-hydrated.

Instead, both cramping and heat problems seem to result from athletes pushing themselves too hard. Muscles cramp, Miller said, when a muscle is fatigued and begins to spasm, not when an athlete is dehydrated, while heat illnesses generally occur in athletes who are not physiologically acclimated to hot weather (a process that requires slowly increasing the length and intensity of workouts in the heat) and who continue to exercise even as they start to feel awful.

So, he said, “the best advice” about how to keep young athletes healthy during warmweather practices and games, “is common sense.” Don’t urge athletes to drink if they aren’t thirsty. And don’t make them keep playing if they aren’t feeling well, he said.

If they complain of feeling too hot, have them sit in the shade and remove clothing.

Take their temperature if they remain lethargic, and seek medical attention if it is much above normal. Immerse them in an ice bath, too, to rapidly lower body temperature.

(Miller and his colleagues recently completed a study in which they found that football players who overheated could be submerged wearing full pads and uniforms and cool off almost as quickly as players dressed only in T-shirts and underwear, which could save precious minutes when a player seriously overheats.)

Above all, remind them, and, if needed, yourself, that the point of this enterprise is to have fun.

31

32

CUISINE

Hot Off the Grill When it comes to grilling, burgers aren’t the only between-the-bread options. We think these sandwiches are also worth flipping for. Simply seasoned redsnapper fillets, chicken breasts and thick slices of eggplant take on a world of flavors, thanks to a brief turn on the grill - and some essential condiments. Start with the best-quality bread available, and be sure to grill it, too, for maximum backyard bliss.

EGGPLANTMOZZARELLA MELT Servings: 4 Ingredients: Grill any extra eggplant slices and use them for making dips or spreads (such as baba ghanoush), or add them to salads.

• 4 slices eggplant, each about 1 inch thick, cut crosswise from thickest part of 1 large eggplant • 1 large red onion, cut into 1/2-inch rounds • Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing • Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper • 1/4 cup apple vinegar • 1/4 pound mozzarella, cut into 4 slices • 4 brioche buns, preferably with sesame seeds, halved • 4 small leaves Bibb or Boston lettuce • 1 cup lightly packed fresh basil leaves Direction: • Heat grill to medium-high. Brush eggplant and onion liberally with oil; season generously with salt and pepper. Brush grates with oil. Grill onion, flipping once until softened and lightly marked in spots, about 8 minutes. Transfer to a bowl and toss with vinegar.

• Grill eggplant slices until just tender on one side, about 5 minutes. Flip and top each with cheese; cook until eggplant is tender and cheese is melted, about 5 minutes more.

• Meanwhile, grill rolls until lightly marked. Sandwich lettuce, eggplant, onion and basil with rolls. Serve immediately.

GRILLED SNAPPER SANDWICH WITH PICKLED VEGETABLES Servings: 4 Ingredients: • 2 carrots, peeled into ribbons (about 2 cups) • 1 small cucumber, such as Persian, thinly sliced (about 1 cup) • 4 radishes, very thinly sliced (about 1 cup) • 1/4 cup unseasoned rice vinegar • 2 teaspoons sugar • Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper • 1/3 cup mayonnaise • 1 1/2 teaspoons Sriracha, plus more for serving (optional) • 2 skinless red-snapper fillets (each about 8 ounces) • Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing • 4 Portuguese rolls, halved • 1/2 cup lightly packed fresh cilantro leaves Direction: • Toss carrots, cucumber, radishes, vinegar, sugar and 1/2 teaspoon salt in a bowl. Mix mayonnaise and Sriracha in another bowl.

• Heat grill to medium-high. Brush fish with oil; season with salt and pepper.

Brush grates with oil. Grill fish until bottom edges turn opaque, about 3 minutes. Flip with 2 large spatulas and cook until opaque in center, about 3 minutes. Remove from grill; cut each fillet in half crosswise. Meanwhile, grill rolls until lightly marked.

• Spread mayonnaise mixture on all roll halves. Layer fish and pickled vegetables on bottom halves; drizzle with pickling liquid and top with cilantro. Serve immediately, with more Sriracha.

MEDITERRANEAN CHOPPED-CHICKEN PITA Servings: 4 Ingredients: • Cut this sandwich into wedges and eat it like a pizza.

• 1 pound boneless, skinless chickenbreast halves (3 to 4 halves) • Extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing and drizzling • Coarse salt and freshly ground pepper • 4 6-inch pitas • 1 1/3 cups prepared hummus • 1 cup cherry tomatoes, halved (about 4 ounces) • 2 scallions, trimmed and thinly sliced (about 4 ounces) • 1/2 small head radicchio, thinly sliced (about 2 1/2 cups) • 1/2 cup crumbled feta (2 ounces) • 1 lemon, quartered Direction: • Heat grill to medium-high. Brush chicken with oil; season with salt and pepper. Brush grates with oil. Grill chicken, turning once, until cooked through and lightly marked in spots, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer to a cutting board. When cool enough to handle, cut into strips.

• Brush both sides of each pita with oil. Grill, flipping once, until lightly marked and crisp, 4 to 5 minutes.

Spread hummus on one side of each pita. Top with chicken, tomatoes, scallions, radicchio and feta. Drizzle with oil; serve immediately with lemon.

33

TRAVEL

In Italy, Hiking and Haute Cuisine in the Dolomites Karerlake in italy - at the background the Dolomites

T

he most sensible approach to the Alpine geological wonderland known as the Dolomites is also the most evocative one. Here’s how it’s done: After the threehour drive from Venice Marco Polo Airport toward Austria, pull off the autostrada into the inviting city of Bolzano.

In the pedestrian zone on Piazza della Mostra you will encounter the town’s best restaurant, Zur Kaiserkron. The lunchtime flavors - smoke-cured ham known as speck, orange-infused ravioli, honey-glazed duck with beet sauce, an array of local mountain cheeses - inform you that you’ve arrived in a distinctive place with a robust Mitteleuropean sensibility that also has the capacity to surprise.

As you proceed northward, note how the city gives way to silky green meadowland. And then suddenly you see it: the asymmetrical limestone spires of the Dolomites erupting from the placid landscape like a gigantic prehistoric paw in gruff welcome.

34

Green valley Santa Maddalena village, Dolomiti Mountains, Italy

Bolzano entrepreneur that has remained in his family since its construction in 1871.

Some 50 family members still reside in the 15 residences strewn across the rolling property.

Briol is manifestly a destination for solitude-seekers. Departing that morning

But the Dolomites aren’t for mere gazing, as I discovered in July after leaving Bolzano and ascending into the mountain village of Castelrotto. All around my car, an outbreak of physical fitness materialized: hundreds of men, women and children in jogging shorts or mounted on cycles or clacking downhill with their walking sticks. And a few miles outside of town, at the Adler Mountain Lodge where I checked in, a wellness convention seemed to be underway, with the hotel’s entire clientele shuffling cultlike in their terry cloth robes and slippers from sauna to massage to outdoor pool, which overlooked what has to be the most entrancing view in the entire region.

The next morning I perused the bulletin board next to the Adler’s reception desk, taking note of the day’s various hotel-

sponsored physical activities that I would be missing. I had places to go, and the one road leading out of the hotel would soon be closed for several hours to accommodate a half-marathon whose participants would include members of Nigeria’s national track team (they train here annually because of the thin mountain air).

Briol is the warm and funky former mountain retreat of a

after a stout breakfast and hiking downhill to my car, I made my way northward to the much-visited but charming town of Corvara.

I had known to stay away from it the day before: The roads around Corvara had been closed all morning because of the Maratona, an annual cycling event that had attracted 9,000 participants from 67 countries. A day later, and indeed throughout my six-day stay, I encountered packs of two-wheelers gamely surging up every mountain road I traversed.

Cima Scotoni, 7,500 feet above sea level.

A stubborn pocket of the previous winter’s snow remained beside our feet. Directly below us, perhaps a thousand feet downhill, a fava bean-shaped lake of impossible exquisiteness shimmered. It looked no less beautiful when we stood right beside it an hour later.

Now Auener Hof lacks for nothing. Opting for rigor over Zen, I forwent the spa’s silver quartzite primordial stone massage and set out uphill for a 75-minute hike to something more straightforwardly primitive: the Stoanernen Mandeln, or Stone Men, a bizarre assemblage of 100 or so sandstone figures presumably constructed by ancient shepherds for reasons of their own.

I would have given anything to stay another night at Auener Hof. But the hiking guide Marco Sacchelli had urged me to consider one last outdoor rendezvous before I said goodbye to the Dolomites. Begrudgingly, I left the hotel the next morning and headed eastward under a dulcet blue sky to Cortina d’Ampezzo. About seven miles outside of town, I parked alongside the roadway, grabbed my backpack a final time and began the twohour climb along Passo Tre Croci.

35

BLOG

Lather, Rinse, Rebook E

xploring the amenities is one of the great pleasures of staying in a hotel room.

Premium television channels, extra fluffy pillows, or a luxurious bathrobe can make a stay that much more delightful. But as everyone knows, the most crucial feature of a hotel room is the selection of hygiene and beauty products on offer in the bathroom. This is especially true in the age of liquid terrorism, when people are forbidden from traveling with bottles containing more than 3.4 ounces of anything. According to Hoyt Harper, the global brand leader for the company that runs Sheraton Hotels, the percentage of guests who use the complementary items has shot up from 35 percent 10 years ago to 75 percent in 2014. But some tiny bottles of shampoo, body wash, and conditioner are better than others—and finding ones that will work for a broad swath of travelers can’t be easy, considering how personal people’s preferences are when it comes to scent and hygiene. So how do hotels decide which products to stock in their bathrooms?

The decision is based on a consideration of function and brand identity, and is often helped along by lobbying from manufacturers. Unsurprisingly, the hospitality experts who run hotels put a lot of thought into providing their guests with the exact right products— right as in works well enough that a person

36

feels clean after using them but also right as in consistent with the image that the hotel wants to project.

Boutique hotels, such as the Drake in Toronto, the Ace, and the Standard—which often employ their own music directors, art curators, and graphic design consultants, and do things like offer multicolored toilet paper in their bathrooms—are especially focused on their toiletry game, seeing it as integral to the conjuring of their vibe and to the experience they want their guests to have. At the Drake, the three bottles you’ll find in your shower are from Malin and Goetz—often stylized (MALIN+GOETZ)—an “apothecary” based in Manhattan. That partnership was born when one of the company’s founders walked past the Drake during a visit to Toronto and personally pitched his line to the hotel manager after deciding it was the sort of place where his line of cleansers, balms, and moisturizers should be seen.

Sometimes partnerships start from the opposite direction. The owners of the Heywood Hotel in Austin, Texas—a seven-room boutique that was recently featured on a list of hotels worth visiting for their toiletries alone—settled on the Hydrate Me line of wash and rinse hair products from Kevin Murphy, in part because the company was local and capable of providing the ecoconscious Heywood with refillable containers. For skin products, the owners initially reached out to a beauty company whose wares they had encountered in a different Austin hotel but were told they couldn’t work together due to exclusivity concerns. Instead, Heywood ended up partnering with a small Austin company called Archipelago Botanicals because its products carried a subtle smell that promised to appeal to both men and women—a crucial feature for hotel toiletries in

general—and because its black text on white bottles looked nice against the Heywood’s allwhite bathroom color palette.

Partnerships between hotels and manufacturers are often forged more systematically. It’s standard for brands to actively approach hoteliers about their offerings, often with tailor-made brochures in hand, and there are entire catalogs for people in the hospitality industry from which a hotel manager can order amenities. Some beauty/ hygiene companies are specifically focused on the hotel market, while others see it as an opportunity to get their products in front of guests who might then buy the products independently.

Unsurprisingly, the most researchintensive approach to choosing amenities can be seen at large hotel chains, for which toiletry selection represents a multimillion dollar investment. According to Forbes, the design and development team at Marriott International tested “52 brands of shampoo, conditioner, body gel, lotion and soap before choosing the perfect one for its Marriott Hotels around the world.” That search led Scott Mitchell, the team leader, to select a skincare line from Bangkok for Marriott’s North and South American hotels, and an Italian company for the European and African market.

One of the main ways that hoteliers know whether they’ve done a good job in making their choices is whether guests take the samples home with them. As Mitchell told Forbes, “If you take it, then you must have liked it.”

Explainer thanks Jessica Rodrigues, head of marketing and PR for the Drake Hotel in Toronto; Kathy Seltzer, co-owner of the Heywood Hotel in Austin, Texas; and Morena Oliveira of Onefinestay.

B

ack in December, my colleague Josh Voorhees wondered why U.S. air travelers weren’t seeing much relief in ticket prices. The cost of jet fuel, after all, was down 32 percent in the last 12 months. But instead of passing these savings onto consumers, domestic airlines had actually increased fares by an average of $10—or about 3 percent— in 2014. The reasons, he found, were manifold.

A string of megamergers in the airline industry.

Increasing demand for seats. Fuel contracts set months in advance. The most optimistic outlook for consumers came from the International Air Transport Association, the industry’s largest trade group, which suggested that when summer 2015 rolled around, the average airfare could fall by up to 5 percent.

Well, now that summer 2015 is in full swing, IATA’s ticket-price predictions are looking pretty prescient. Case in point: When the Consumer Price Index for July was released on Wednesday, it showed that the index for airline fares fell a striking 5.6 percent from June to July—the biggest one-month drop since December 1995. On a year-over-year basis, the airline fare index has also fallen 5 or more percent in each of the last five months. You can see July’s sharp downturn in the chart below: While this is good news for consumers, it’s not the best for air carriers, despite their current record

BLOG

Airlines Tickets are Finally Getting Cheaper

profits. From the Wall Street Journal: Costs have dropped sharply for airlines, pushing profits higher.

But a decline in ticket prices has hurt the companies’ unit revenue, which measures the amount of money taken in for each passenger flown a mile. Investors remain fixated on that metric, which has slumped this year and may not turn around until 2016. They are watching for signs that airlines are responding to better times by over expanding, setting up another downturn. What’s hard to say is whether the decline in airfare that the CPI has registered accounts for another airline trend—unbundling tickets. In an effort to bolster profits, major air carriers have increasingly started to separate out all the amenities of a flight and sell them as add-ons. JetBlue earlier this year added a fee for passengers’ first checked bag for the first time. Ultra-cheap companies like Wow Air keep their base fares deceptively low by charging more for everything from prebooked seats to bringing a musical instrument aboard. As I wrote in Slate in December, buying a plane ticket today is kind of like ordering a sandwich and having to pay extra for the bread. On its website, the BLS says only that the CPI’s airline fare measurement takes into account “all applicable taxes” as well as “fuel surcharges, airport, security, and baggage fees.” For once, it’s truly unclear if additional fees may apply.

37

ADVICE

What Eating 40 Teaspoons of Sugar a Day Can Do to You THERE ARE PEOPLE HAVING THEIR CHOCOLATE BAR OR ICE-CREAM AT THE END OF THE DAY WITHOUT REALIZING THEY’VE HAD 30 TEASPOONS IN OTHER FOODS THROUGHOUT THE DAY

38

S

oda has been a major target in the debate over sugar and its role in the obesity crisis.

But high levels of added sugars can be found in many seemingly healthful foods, from yogurts to energy bars and even whole-grain bread.

A new movie called “That Sugar Film” seeks to educate consumers about the hazards of consuming too much added sugar, which can be found in an estimated 80% of all supermarket foods. The new documentary stars Australian actor-director, Damon Gameau, who modeled his movie after “Super Size Me,” the 2004 film that followed Morgan Spurlock as he consumed an all-McDonald’s diet for 30 days.

In “That Sugar Film,” which first had its debut in Australia this year, Gameau gives up his normal diet of fresh foods for two months to see what happens when he shifts to eating a diet containing 40 teaspoons of sugar daily, the amount consumed by the average Australian (and an amount not far from the 28 teaspoons consumed daily by the average American teenager). The twist is that Gameau avoids soda, ice cream, candy and other obvious sources of sugar. Instead, he consumes foods commonly perceived as “healthy” that are frequently loaded with added sugars, like lowfat yogurt, fruit juice, health bars and cereal.

Gameau finds that his health and waistline quickly spiral out of control. While the film is mostly entertainment, it tries to present the science of sugar in a consumer-friendly way, with helpful cameos from Hugh Jackman, Stephen Fry and others. It is also timely. Just last month, the federal government proposed a new rule that would require nutrition labels to carry details about added sugars, a measure that has faced resistance from the food industry.

Recently, we caught up with Gameau to talk about why he made the film (which has also been turned into a book), what he learned along

the way and why he believes that sugar - despite his criticism of it - should not be vilified.

Q: So why did you make this film?

A: It came about because I was noticing how much conflicting press there was about sugar. I’d read one article one day saying it’s toxic and poisonous. Then, the next day, I’d see an article saying it’s fine and we need it for energy. I thought the only way to find out the truth was to do an experiment and assemble a team of doctors and scientists. Despite some of the doctors telling me I was crazy, I thought consuming a lot of foods like low-fat yogurt and orange juice would be just fine.

Q: Was it?

A: Very quickly things started to change.

I put on a lot of weight very quickly. After 18 days, I developed signs of fatty liver. That was a huge turning point for the film. That’s when we started exploring a lot more of the science and then looking for people to interview and stories to tell in the film.

Q: You were focusing on foods perceived as healthy. Can you talk about that?

A: Yes. These are the foods with flowers and bees and sunsets on their labels. That’s the whole point of the film. If I had been eating chocolate doughnuts and soft drinks, we know what would have happened to me. But the fact that this happened when I was following the low-fat diet that we’ve all been prescribed for 35 years - that was surprising.

We’re not demonizing sugar, we’re just showing people where it’s hiding. There are people having their chocolate bar or ice cream at the end of the day without realizing they’ve had 30 teaspoons in other foods throughout the day. I say enjoy your chocolate and your ice cream, but just know where most of the sugar in your diet is hiding.