Trinity Frontier, Volume 1, Issue 1 by Trinity Frontier

Politics, Culture and Travel

issue 1 January 2017

Carol O’Brien

SECRETARY: Navika Mehta

INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS AND POLITICS EDITORS: Alex Peters Alex Crean

SOCIETY AND CULTURE EDITORS: Neasa Candon Conor Gallagher-Chu

TRAVEL EDITORS: Catherine Hearn Laura Thomas

PUBLIC RELATIONS OFFICERS: Coline Dumoulin Hannah Rieger

BUSINESS MANAGER: Ghalya Farahat

LAYOUT AND DESIGN: Sara Makdessi www.saramakdessi.com

Cover: Pic du Midi d’Ossau, France Sara Makdessi

EDITORIAL TEAM

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF:

EDITORIAL Welcome to the inaugural issue of Trinity Frontier magazine. We are a new student publication that revolves around the themes of international issues and global perspectives. Trinity Frontier was created to showcase the best in student journalism and travel writing, and to be a platform for students to share their thoughts, ideas and stories from across the globe. We cover a broad range of topics, in a broad range of styles; everything from political analysis to travel narratives and tips. We hope, over time, to grow to become an established feature in the catalogue of publications here at Trinity. We hope you have enjoyed this issue. We would love to hear your feedback, and to those of you considering submitting a piece this term – please do! Finally, this issue would not have been possible without the support of Trinity Publications, our sincere thanks to them for all the support. Thanks for reading, Carol O’Brien Editor-in-Chief

INTERNATIONAL RELATIONS AND POLITICS 4

Why Trump Won Andrew Prylowski

Honouring Fidel Castro is an insult to his victims Alex Peters

America’s uncertain role in the Pacific Conor Gallagher-Chu

European Security and Defence Cooperation: A History

CONTENTS

Paul Gorby

Presidential crisis in South Korea Elim McCabe

SOCIETY AND CULTURE 16

Volunteer tourism, who benefits? Neasa Candon

Trials and Tribulations of an Evening Student Valentina DeAmicis

No Regratz Catherine Hearn

TRAVEL 25

America’s Best Idea

The Bornean Rainforest

Seven Days Walking through Scotland’s Isle Of Skye

Vienna waits for you

Caitlin Kirke Fergus Tremar Menendez David Flood Irene Brockie

IR + POLITICS

WHY TRUMP WON

WORDS BY ANDREW PRYLOWSKI

VICTORY FOR TRUMP WAS A REBELLION AGAINST THE ESTABLISHMENT: Against all the odds, Donald Trump managed to clinch the Republican presidential nomination, unite the GOP behind him, and defeat the Democratic Partyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s nominee Hillary Clinton to become President-Elect of the United States. A long and hard-fought presidential campaign, with mudslinging and hate coming from both camps, ended with a miraculous victory for Trump. Many were left confused and angry at the result. Hillary had led in the majority of the

PHOTO BY GAGE SKIDMORE

polls throughout the year, election forecasters predicted a landslide victory for Clinton, and Paddy Power had paid out on bets backing Hillary in the middle of October. Except the final vote proved to be a different story, which nobody except die-hard Trump supporters and Michael Moore saw coming. Quickly, calls of racism and sexism were proclaimed, and protesters took to the streets in places which had voted heavily for Clinton to protest the democratic vote. However, it wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t bigotry and hate that won the election for Trump, instead it was a reaction against the state of the US, the ignorance of the elites, and a hope for real change.

USA Part of the problem were the actions of the large US media companies, for example CNN, The New York Times, and ABC, who were reporting on every step of the Trump campaign, often negatively. They spent hours upon hours broadcasting and writing about his scandals and mistakes, but spoke little of his policies. However, in doing this, they were giving him what he wanted. In comparison to his opponent, Trump spent very little on advertising, yet was still getting coverage in massive numbers of viewers and readers. Despite the increase in viewership during the election, the majority of people have distrust in the media, according to a 2016 Gallup poll, only 32% of Americans had any trust in them. People looked to alternate sources for news, and turned to the internet.

The main opposition to Trump, Hillary Clinton, was not the right candidate to counteract his appeal. Despite receiving less of the popular vote than Mitt Romney did in 2012, Trump is still projected to win one hundred more electoral votes. The unpopularity of Hillary Clinton as a candidate is to blame for this. Her alleged long record of lying, the Clinton Foundation and Email scandals, her role in the Benghazi attacks, amongst others followed her throughout the election as well as questions arising about her health. She had also been under FBI investigation, something which had been reopened again towards the end of the election. She had her core supporters, yet was unable to draw enough support to be able to win. The Democratic Party were at fault for this too, as emails published by WikiLeaks

Sites such as the conservative Breitbart, pushing a pro-Trump rhetoric, saw massive increases in readership, and social media became a volatile battleground of different, and often more radical, opinions. People recognised a Clinton bias in the mainstream media, and rejected it in favour of apparent less partisan sources.

revealed, they had always supported her through the Primaries against Bernie Sanders. Sanders, like Trump, offered an alternative to the usual establishment politicians, which Clinton could be described as the personification of, and proved to be a much more popular candidate especially amongst young voters. 5

USA Despite the support and rallying of the Obamas, Sanders, and numerous celebrities, these popular figures were not enough to get Americans to go the polls and vote for her. This lack of enthusiasm to vote for Clinton was not accurately reflected in the pre-election polls, her campaign

the cries of bigotry against him. In the end, it’s the people that ultimately decide the election. Trump claimed to have the vote of the silent majority, and when comparing polls to actual results, his claims rang true. Being called racists, bigots, sexists, and even a ‘basket of deplorables’ by one of the candidates, people would be of course unwilling to publicly express their support of Trump. They saw Trump as a candidate who will bring change. Some of Trumps most important wins, in places where he campaigned relentlessly, were among the working class counties that had experienced massive industrial decline, the Rust Belt states including Pennsylvania and Michigan. This forgotten population of America felt Trump to be a candidate that truly represents them, feeling the rest of the politicians were elitist and out of touch with the average Middle American. Of 700 counties that voted twice for Obama, Trump was able to turn one third of them red. The anger of the people towards the political system, and a yearning for real change, led the people to vote for Trump in important States. In an election with two rather unpopular candidates, almost half of eligible voters decided not to vote at all. The enthusiasm for Clinton was very little, but ultimately the Trump support turned out and made the difference. The 2016 Presidential election will go down as one of the more memorable in history,ranging from cartoon frogs and ‘grabbing pussies’, to bright red hats and walls. Whatever your thoughts on the man, Donald Trump is set to become the next president of the United States of America, and the fate of the country rests in his (small, if you must) hands.

“It wasn’t bigotry and hate that won the election for Trump, instead it was a reaction against the state of the US, the ignorance of the elites, and a hope for real change.” possibly became overconfident, and ultimately lost. Trump entered the race for the Republican nomination on the 16th of June 2016, battling against candidates he quickly caricatured as “Lyin’ Ted Cruz” and the “low-energy Jeb!”. He was an outsider without a political career, which clearly helped him through the campaign. He placed himself as being against the establishment and was going to transform the political system. 2016 has been described as the year the establishment lost, with the success of Brexit and now Trump, voters are looking at issues of uncontrolled immigration and globalisation, and are rejecting it. Trump placed heavy importance on these issues, promising to build a wall along the Mexican border, to stop illegal immigration, and to prevent jobs from leaving the US. His messages were simple, appealing to voters. ‘Make America Great Again’ and ‘Jobs, Jobs, Jobs’ became key slogans. Trump managed to unite the Republican Party behind him, and was ultimately helped by the party’s success in the Senate and House of Representative elections. Some saw him as the ‘blue collar billionaire’, focusing on what average Americans cared about, rather than pandering to vocal groups. Whether or not he can keep his promises is yet to be seen, but their influence is what helped the people to vote Trump over Hillary, despite 6

Andrew Prylowski is a Junior Freshman Single Honours History student.

CUBA

HONOURING

FIDEL CASTRO IS

INSULT

TO HIS VICTIMS

WORDS BY ALEX PETERS AS WORLD LEADERS LINED UP TO GIVE PRAISE TO CUBA’S DICTATOR FIDEL CASTRO, AN ORIENTALISM OF A DIFFERENT NATURE CAME TO MIND. Over a hundred years ago, colonizing Europeans justified their exploitation and brutality with a self congratulatory maxim that they were bringing democracy to the deprived peoples of the world so that one day they could live as freely and as prosperously as western Europeans. In the meantime, because they were not ready or able for liberal democracy, they needed the guiding hand of enlightened Europeans. Similarly, as throughout the cold war era, today’s old-school left-wingers fetishize and excuse strong man communist dictators who abuse freedoms and civil liberties. They rationalised that these are countries different from their own, and the victims are living in far off places. Castro’s admirers look through rose tinted glasses at a regime and a man who tortured his opponents, sent homosexuals to forced labour camps and did his utmost to bring about nuclear Armageddon. His was a socialist utopia that people were willing to swim seas to escape from. But these victims do not matter. Neither do those who starved in labour camps, or mysteriously disappeared. Such minor details are something to be put in perhaps the fifth or sixth paragraph of an obituary, after the grand statements extolling Castro’s apparent virtues. The New York

Times chose to describe a man who “defied the United States”. Or as the President of Ireland put it a “giant among global leaders.” Liberator. Revolutionary. Anti-Imperialist. All terms that have been used to describe a brutal dictator. In his remarks, the Labour leader Jeremy Corbyn congratulated Castro on outlasting eleven United States Presidents. Eleven? He must have been a master at electoral democracy, skilfully outwitting his political opponents at every turn. We rightly condemn far-right leaders who threaten the fabric and stability of electoral democracy, but when it is somebody on the ‘left’s side’ these totalitarians are given a free pass. Their crimes are prefaced by the phrases: ‘Critics point out…’ or ‘Others have claimed…’; as if there was some sort of debate. We are safe in the knowledge that we live in a pluralistic free society. We will never be sent to a forced labour camp or indefinitely imprisoned. We are free to “resist capitalism” or scream about US imperialism. We do not live under a regime where civil resistance is to take your life into your own hands, and we betray those who fight for such freedoms by lionizing their oppressors. Of course, for many, the argument will go that you can’t have an ‘Omelette without breaking a few eggs’. How else was Castro 7

CUBA supposed to maintain the communist utopia in the face of the brutal American imperialists but by crushing dissent and stamping all over civil liberties? To these people: repeat your idiocy to the families torn apart by the Castro regime. Repeat it to Armando Valladares who spent 22 years jailed in a cell so small he had to stand, simply for questioning the great leader. As he says in the first page of his memoir Against All Hope, “My response to those who still try to justify Castro’s tyranny with the excuse that he has built schools and hospitals is this: Stalin and Pinochet also built schools and hospitals, and like Castro, they also tortured and assassinated opponents. They built concentration camps and extermination camps and eradicated all liberties, committing the worst crimes against humanity.” Repeat it to those who lost parents and are now living cut off from relatives in different countries. Ask why his death caused such celebration on the streets of Miami. This is not all the fault of America, much as it may be conducive to your worldview to think so. “For decades, Fidel Castro was the chief beneficiary of a misguided US policy that allowed him to play the victim and discouraged other governments from condemning his repressive policies”, Human Rights Watch’s America director Jose Miguel Vivanco has said. The reality is that it was not the US sanctions that turned Cuba into an economic backwater, it was those that led the country. Together with Amnesty International (hardly a bastion institution of pro-US propaganda), Human Rights Watch have documented thousands of political prisoners, extra-judicial killings and executions by firing squad. This was not a picturesque island of beauty and equality- it was a murderous prison which people risked their lives to escape from. Of course the regime that Castro replaced was not free or ideal, but how does this excuse the barbarity of Castro and his communist 8

allies? Is it the fault of the United States embargo that any who criticized or objected to the regime in any way were jailed? We do not put the crimes of Pinochet in parenthesis, or indulge in ‘whataboutery’ when right wing despots are examined. But somehow the assumption of purity in the intentions Communist leaders excuses their atrocities. They wanted to create an equalitarian society after all, therefore destruction of civil liberties is allowed to be just an after thought. Those who are on the left of the political spectrum often like to point out that they are on the right side of history. For the most part, be it the civil rights movement, gay rights movement, greater secularization of western liberal democracies, they are right. But in the fawning over and idolizing of communist dictators, history will not remember them too kindly. They will be on the same side of those socialists whom George Orwell attacked for their blind loyalty to the Soviet Union in the face of its slaughter and oppression. No Jeremy Corbyn, Michael D. Higgins, Justin Trudeau or others who have lavished praise upon him in the wake of his death, we should not be celebrating the life of Fidel Castro as one of the twentieth century’s greatest men. True liberals apply the same standards of liberty across all countries and all political ideologies. The betrayal of those who stood up to tyranny can never be justified.

« His was a socialist utopia that people were willing to swim seas to escape from.»

Alex Peters is Frontier’s International Relations and Politics Editor. He is a fourth year in History and Political Science.

USA

America’s Uncertain Role in the Pacific

WORDS BY CONOR GALLAGHER-CHU

he past few years have seen no shortage of reasons for U.S.-China tensions to flare. Contest for dominance of the East and South China Seas has seen the two powers of the Pacific come head-to-head in recent times, with the U.S. often backing Japan, Taiwan, and other allies against a resurgent China. President-elect Donald J. Trump’s acceptance of a

congratulatory phone call from the Taiwanese President, the first time a President-elect has accepted such a call, can now be added to the long list of controversies. Not since the 1979 termination of official diplomatic relations has an American president or president-elect opened an official dialogue with Taiwan. Though links between the countries remain

close, official contact has until now been covert. In receiving the Taiwanese president’s call, Trump has placed both the U.S. and Taiwan in a difficult situation. If China perceives President Tsai Ing-wen’s phone call as the sign of a newly recalcitrant Taiwan, it may be encouraged to ramp up aggressive actions in what is an increasingly volatile region. The People’s 9

USA Republic of China claims the island of Taiwan as a province and may feel threatened by America’s willingness to parlay with the Republic of China’s government. If America is perceived as siding with Taiwan, China’s fear of a solidified opposition front, in the form of America and her allies, may push her into taking an increasingly militaristic tone in the Pacific. With America in a period of presidential transition, the lack of a steady hand will be missed in East Asia. Under an Obama presidency, the U.S. has sought to manage the rise of China as part of his ‘pivot towards Asia’ strategy. The success of Obama’s pivot is unclear and many, including Secretary Clinton, disagreed with him, advocating for a more aggressive policy of containment for China. In any case, a strategy on dealing with a rising Chinese power has been a dominant issue in successive American administrations since the 1970s. Indeed, perhaps Henry Kissinger’s (the former Secretary of State who has remained a dominant figure in American foreign policy) most enduring influences on American foreign policy has been a focus on how to deal with what many regard as the inevitable rise of a powerful Chinese state. What makes Trump’s conversation with the Taiwanese president so worrying is its flippant nature. It remains unclear 10

how or why Trump and his team decided to accept the call. That the President-elect seems to lack any semblance of a clear vision on how to handle US-China relations will no doubt worry America’s allies in the Pacific. Trump’s

nationalist and authoritarian rule of yesteryear. Though his vision of China has yet to fully emerge, Xi’s consolidation of power in the past few years means China also stands at a crossroads. Where it will go from here is still up in the air.

«What makes Trump’s conversation with the Taiwanese president so worrying is its flippant nature.» desire to abandon the TransPacific Partnership (TPP) deal, widely seen as a constraint on China’s growing influence, was of course part of his anti-globalism stance. Yet his worrying lack of foresight in addressing a potential alternative to this scheme is indicative of his ill-considered foreign policy in Asia. That Trump follows Obama, Clinton or Kissinger in their approach to China is less important than his need to lay out a clear vision for America’s Asia-Pacific interests. In taking the Taiwanese president’s call Trump has discarded the policy of appeasement allied with containment that has been the hallmark of America’s historically established method for dealing with China. The disturbing lack of judgement throws into question the future of US-China relations. Even as America heads towards the unknown, China, under President Xi, has taken a sharp turn towards the

An emboldened militaristic China is clearly the most objectionable outcome but if Trump continues with his ill-judged foreign policy, China may very well feel the need to demonstrate her hard-power in Asia. The US-China relationship has never been the most stable of friendships. As with any rising power attempting to upset the delicate power dynamics of East Asia, problems arise from the grating friction in a multipolar Asia. What makes the next step unsettling is the lack of clear vision from either side. Of course, the world has grown to accept an opaque China, how it copes with a floundering America is anybody’s guess. Conor Gallagher-Chu is Frontier’s Deputy Society and Culture Editor and a fourth year in History and Political Science.

EUROPE

EUROPEAN SECURITY AND DEFENSE: A HISTORY WORDS BY PAUL GORBY

In a briefing on the state of European defence cooperation in 2015, the European Parliament claimed that in the aftermath of the economic crisis there were fears that the United States would begin to slowly withdraw on matters of EU security. This, the report stated, would somewhat reignite discussions on the prospect of EU integration in the areas of security and defence. More recently, however, the issue of defence has been front and centre for the Union. 11

EUROPE Following the election of Donald Trump as President of the United States, European leaders have become increasingly concerned that his disdain for NATO could in fact be implemented as policy, meaning that the European Union may have to become autonomous in matters of international security. Increases in the budget for the European Defence Agency for the first time in six years, as well as one MEP’s call for a ‘Schengen of defence’ lend credence to such a conclusion. The purpose of this article is to look at the history of Europe’s moves towards creating a common defensive policy in the hopes that understanding the successes and failures of the past can help us to better understand any moves the Union plans to make in these uncertain times. A precursor to European defence integration was the Treaty of Dunkirk, signed in 1947 by Britain and France. This Treaty was intended as a means of ensuring cooperation in the event of a German attack following the Second World War, and in 1948 it was succeeded by the Treaty of Brussels, which brought the Benelux countries into the fold. The Western Union Defence Organisation was set up in 1948 in order to meet the goals of this Treaty, and this body would ultimately form as part of the basis for NATO. In the early 1950s, as a response to American proposals 12

to rearm West Germany, the European members of NATO made plans to create the European Defence Community. This body was intended as an alternative to NATO, and would possess its own supranational military force. The plan was ultimately rejected by the French Parliament, which cited concerns over sovereignty, and in its place was constructed the Western European Union – a body tasked with implementing an updated Treaty of Brussels, and which now included West Germany and Italy. In 1961, Charles de Gaulle attempted to bring about another move towards defence integration with the Fouchet Plan, however it was rejected by the BeNeLux countries who felt that the plan’s implementation would lead to them taking a backseat in matters of security. It was not until 1969 that the European powers would again add a security element to their plans for integration. It was in this year that the European Political Cooperation was set up, allowing foreign ministers and heads of state to discuss and recommend (in a non-binding fashion) actions for European states on the world stage. In the 1990s, issues of defence and security would once again take centre stage in the European sphere: the collapse of the Soviet Union, the Gulf War, and conflicts in the Balkans all led to calls for a more comprehensive foreign policy

among European nations. In 1991 the Maastricht Treaty was signed, which granted greater authority to the European Council on the issue of defence. However, because defence remained a controversial issue, the stated reason for this was to strengthen the European pillar of NATO. The European Security and Defence Policy was brought into play following the signing of the Amsterdam Treaty in 1997. While still subordinate to NATO, the ESDP granted the European Council the right to implement common defence policy. In 2007, the Lisbon Treaty introduced the office of High Representative of the Union for Foreign Affairs and Security. This figure would chair meetings of the Foreign Affairs Council while also being a vice-president of the European Commission. The Treaty significantly increased the authority of the EU in foreign affairs, granting it the right to sign international treaties and increasing the role of the Commission in security and defence policy. Nonetheless, the European Union’s defensive capabilities remain largely dependent on the resources of NATO, meaning the Union lacks serious autonomy in the international sphere when it comes to security. Since the issue has come to the fore recently, it is worth asking why the EU has not made significant attempts to integrate security policy up

EUROPE to now. While some moves have been made, none have gone beyond the remit of NATO, and many were fiercely resisted by member states. The issue, as has already been suggested, is largely one of sover-

interests became aligned. While this appeared unlikely to Hix and Hoyland, it could become reality when the Western world is faced with the leadership of Donald Trump. It remains to be seen whether the President-

“ The European Union’s defensive capabilities remain largely dependent on the resources of NATO” eignty, however this answer is not as simple as it might first appear. The desire for states to preserve sovereignty in the area of defence varies, and it is often the case that some states feel their national interests are better represented through greater integration, even at the cost of sovereignty. The reason the BeNeLux nations rejected the Fouchet Plan was because its intergovernmental approach gave larger states a greater voice, whereas in a supranational body their concerns would be on equal footing to those of France and Britain. It is also the case that some large states support increased supranational integration of defence in order to promote policies which are likely to fail at the domestic level. Examples here include Germany and Italy. In their famous study of the European Union, Simon Hix and Bjorn Hoyland stated that the best hope for deeper security integration would be if all the member states’ security

Elect’s rhetoric regarding NATO and European security will be transformed into policy, however preparations are already being made for such an eventuality, and it would be remiss not to understand the history of European defence cooperation at a time when it is more relevant than ever. Paul Gorby is a junior sophister History and Political Science student. • European Parliament, ‘Briefing: European Defence Cooperation: State of play and thoughts on an EU army’ • Hix, Simon, and Hoyland, Bjorn, The Political System of the EU • Hoffman, Stanley, ‘Obstinate or Obsolete? The Fate of the Nation State and the Case of Western Europe’, Daedalus Vol 95 No. 3 • Holland, Martin, European Integration: From Commonality to Union

SOUTH KOREA

Presidential

crisis

South Korea WORDS BY ELIM MCCABE

At the time of writing one of the biggest and most confusing scandals of the year is currently going on with little global media attention. No, it is not the US presidential Election, nor the fallout of Brexit, or the continuing wars in Ukraine and Syria, instead it is something else. As I write this article South Korean president Park Geun-Hye faces impeachment. This might not necessarily warrant an article in and of itself but the story behind this impeachment is quite extraordinary. It all began around 3 years ago when rumors began to spread that the President had been indoctrinated into a secret society called the “8 goddess”. These rumors were generally laughed at and put in the same category as Moon Communists and Ancient Aliens, all unbelievable conspiracy theories. The theory posited that eight Powerful South Korean women had formed a secret society and ruled Korea from the shadows. As with most conspiracy theories there was little evidence backing this claim and the theory remained mainly the purview of Internet Forums and Conspiracy books. Now however there appears to be at least some truth to the 8 goddess theory. Recently WikiLeaks released a document titled “ROK PRESIDENTIAL ELECTION: STILL THE POLITICS OF THE VORTEX”. A document from 2007 that 14

revealed many disturbing connections between Park Chung-hee former president of Korea and father of Park Geun-Hye the current president and Choi Tae-Min a leader of a shamanistic cult, going as far as to say that Choi Tae-Min had “Complete control over Park’s body and soul” and that he is the “Korean Rasputin” . However this would not have been as large a scandal as it is if it did not then emerge that Park Geun-Hye has been very close to Choi Soon-Sil, the daughter of Choi Tae-min. So close in fact that some Korean news agencies are now claiming it was Choi Soon-Sil who wrote Park’s speech in support of reunification with the North, a speech that proved very controversial in South Korea. One newspaper has described how actual presidential aides were “just mice to Choi’s cat.” The fallout from this revelation was almost instantaneous. The president has confirmed these leaks as being legitimate and begged forgiveness. Meanwhile Choi Soon-Sil is currently MIA and is believed to be hiding in Germany, while Park is currently desperately trying to hold onto power. Protests have rocked the nation and many people are calling Choi Soon-Sil the “Shadow President”. However even more interesting is the effect this revelation has had in conspiracy circles. Rumors are beginning to fly that perhaps the 8 goddess cult isn’t as crazy as previously believed. Then a month ago another bombshell hit as a former Mir Foundation (essentially a Russian soft power initiative) official came out confirming that during Park’s time in office there were meetings of up to five people, during which the documents he drafted would be published as blue house documents (basically presidential documents) “without so much as a comma changed.” This revelation has fueled even more interest in the possibility of the 8 goddess cult being real. Even if the more extravagant 8 goddess cult story is false the revelations this week that Park has been giving speeches and initiating government policies, at the behest of the daughter of a shaman who was described as being in “Complete control” of Park’s father, if they occurred in any

SOUTH KOREA other country would be massive news. Two generations of South Korean presidents have been unduly pressured by a shamanistic cult. All of this is occurring while Park is also under investigation for Extortion. It now appears that Choi was “forcing Samsung, Hyundai and 51 other major businesses to donate a total of $65 million to two foundations she controlled.” All of this unsurprisingly has only led to increased outcry. Many are now demanding that Park resign and some are even suggesting

Park’s party the “Saenuri party” will expel her and that elections will have to be held. In addition, it also seems likely that Park will face impeachment. All of this, unsurprisingly, has mostly been ignored in favour of discussion about the US presidential election. I will admit that the US election is far more likely to affect Ireland; however I must admit I have been following the events in Korea with great Interest. It has been extraordinarily riveting to watch this story develop from a fringe conspiracy theory to a full blown presi-

“Two generations of South Korean presidents have been unduly pressured by a shamanistic cult”

impeachment. Massive protests have been occurring in Seoul and many opposition party members are demanding something be done. Park’s own party has begun to turn on her with rumors that party members have been seen amongst the crowd in Seoul and at the time of writing rumors are rife that Park will either be forced to resign or impeached. These protests are still occurring as I write this article; however who knows what will happen in the coming weeks It seems likely that Park will be replaced as President of South Korea, but who will take her place is another question entirely. In all likelihood

dential scandal, and who knows where the story will go next. Elim McCabe is a first year Single Honors History student interested in international affairs. Reference: • https://wikileaks.org/plusd/cables/ 07SEOUL2178_a.html • http://english.hani.co.kr/arti/english_edition/e_national/767405.html • http://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/20/world/ asia/park-geun-hye-south-korea-extortion-accomplice-prosecutors.html

SOCIETY + CULTURE

VOLUNTEER TOURISM Who benefits?

In today’s globalized world, we cannot help but be aware of the overwhelming privilege we enjoy as a result of living in the West. Students in particular are constantly reminded that we have the ability to affect change, and should seize any opportunity to better the world for those experiencing social and economic disadvantage. Comhlámh, an Irish

organisation supporting global development, reported that Ireland sent a staggering 4,500 volunteers overseas in the year 2012, 40% of whom were students. Although the good intentions of those who travel overseas to volunteer cannot be disputed, sociologists have long debated the benefits of volunteer tourism for host communities. Volunteer tourism, or ‘voluntourism’, is generally regarded in the media and social spheres as partaking in programmes “…designed

Contemporary societies have by and large moved beyond racial naturalism, the belief that the ‘white race’ is biologically superior to other races. However, sociologists such as David Theo Goldberg describe a western shift from racial naturalism to racial historicism. Racial historicism is a product of post-colonialism, and theorises that white Westerners view the ability of ‘non-white’ societies to ‘civilise’ and ‘modernise’ to the same extent as themselves as dependent on the assistance of Europeans, and the taking on of European customs and values. This theory is interesting when applied to volunteer tourism, as it has been suggested that the exponential growth of the overseas volunteering industry in Europe (and the West) is a product of racial historicism. Most volunteer organizations require only enthusiasm and team work skills 16

WORDS BY NEASA CANDON

for the personal fulfilment of Westerners, rather than to affect change in a developing community” (Hogan, 2014), and therefore fundamentally different to ‘legitimate’ NGO volunteer programmes, considered to be orientated solely towards the benefit of the host community. In the academia, however, volunteer tourism refers simply to travelling outside of the “sphere of regular activity” with the aim of undertaking voluntary work, with effects ranging from neutral to damaging.

from potential volunteers, suggesting that host communities are so deprived and underdeveloped that simply the presence and influence of an English-speaking Westerner will benefit the Global South, regardless of the volunteer’s skill set, or lack thereof. Research by Kate Simpson found that the recruitment and deployment of unskilled twentysomethings to the Global South created a simplified view of global development, with many volunteers believing that their presence had greatly improved the lives of those in the host community, and failing to realise that their work made little or no longterm difference. Mary Mostafanzhad’s findings were more sinister, suggesting that volunteers rationalised the severe poverty they witnessed as a cultural phenomenon rather than as the result of structural global inequality. The result

GLOBAL is the naturalization of poverty, perpetuating the ‘poor-but-happy’ stereotype of the Global South, and feeding into the perception of the Global South as innately poor, and in need of Western influence. Along with cultural stereotypes perpetuated by volunteer tourism, research has found that many volunteers attribute a “truth” or “authenticity” to the poverty experienced by communities in the Global South. Mostafanzhad discusses how global poverty is glamorized and romanticized, with many volunteers expressing fears that the authentic nature of these communities would be lost through “too much development”. Validated by the ‘poor-but-happy’ stereotype, Jim Butcher finds that volunteers demand a “development freeze” of the local community, in order to “preserve” the culture, a culture which, as discussed above, has been intrinsically linked to poverty. Therefore, many volunteers subconsciously rebel against the will for development, which initially motivated them to volunteer. Another product of unskilled volunteers and stereotyped communities could be the ‘essentialising’ of communities in the Global South. Elaine Moriarty has discussed at length the impact of the ‘essentialising’ of asylum seekers, meaning the reduction of a diverse and ever changing group of people to a few stereotypical, simplified characteristics. Moriarty explores how everyday processes such as storytelling discursively create an ‘asylum seeker narrative’, which filter throughout a given society and eventually shape government policy regarding migrants and asylum seekers. It could be argued that through everyday activities such as storytelling, returning volunteer tourists convey

and discursively construct the aforementioned romanticized and simplified narrative of poverty and development in the Global South. Perhaps the structure of student volunteer organisations contribute to the construction of this narrative, as many student volunteer tourists experience a sanitised version of the host community. For example, volunteers with leading groups Suas and AIESEC do not live with host families, but with other volunteers from the same organization, thus creating a bubble in which positive experiences can be shared uncontested, and a white-saviour-style narrative unintentionally constructed. Despite some organisations such as Suas providing Global Development training, its focus is macro, with little emphasis on the specificities and nuances of each host community, and very basic training in the local language. This further contributes to the construction of a homogenous

« The result is the naturalization of poverty, perpetuating the ‘poorbut-happy’ stereotype of the Global South.»

GLOBAL poverty narrative of the Global South, with development politics simplified. Through discursive, everyday practices such storytelling, there is the risk that such simplifications could filter throughout society and negatively influence government aid policy, prioritising overseas volunteering over other, more effective means of aid. When evaluating volunteer tourism, one cannot ignore the exponential growth of the industry it has created. A comprehensive

Daire Collins to question how “..the budget of the Laos AIESEC Committee is better spent on a trip to Cairo that on the running the projects in Laos itself” (Collins, 2013). It would appear that the set-up of many overseas volunteering organisations results in the redirection of funds away from those who would appear to need them most. It should be noted that while many volunteer groups, such as Suas, do not actively seek to profit from volunteers (other than the employment provided for Suas administrative staff and mentors), countless other companies operate as a business, and directly profit from volunteer tourism. The increasingly competitive volunteer tourism market has resulted in volunteer programmes becoming stylised to meet the needs and desires of the potential volunteer, and not necessarily those of the host community. Volunteer tourism is often an opportunity for Westerners to further construct their middle class identity, agues Luke Desforges, strengthening character and developing a sense of “worldliness” by differentiating themselves from the exotic “other” in host communities. Desforges draws on Robert Putnam’s theory of the breakdown of community in Western society, and argues that volunteer tourists use host communities to escape the monotony of Western life in the hope of experiencing something “exotic” and “authentic”, as was discussed earlier. Westerners yearn to be loved and needed by the ‘poor-buthappy’ people in the Global South. Therefore, it is often in the interest of volunteer organisations to portray the Global South as culturally rich yet socially deprived, leading to constructed depictions of communities being unable to take care of their own, as discussed by Jack Hogan with regard to organisations concerning children in particular. We must ask whether the emotional highs experienced by volunteer tourists are in fact exploitative, taking into account

“ volunteer tourism industries send out 1.6 million volunteer tourists annually, with gross annual income estimated at £1.3 billion”

global study revealed that volunteer tourism industries send out 1.6 million volunteer tourists annually, with gross annual income estimated at £1.3 billion (Tourism Research and Marketing, 2008). Although many of these organisations are structured as not-for-profit, almost all have some form of full-paid administrative team, whose salaries are payed in part by fundraised fees. Often host communities receive few supports other than the volunteers themselves, with 2015 financial reports from Suas showing that only 5.3% of its expenditure went directly to host communities, 81.13% of which came directly from additional funding raised by volunteers (as opposed to from funding from Irish Aid). Suas’ Global Citizenship programme for volunteers contributed to 18.9% of the groups expenditure, with administration and business development, and volunteer participation costing a whopping 17.9% and 21.9% respectively. One must question whether conflating global development ideals and a corporate organizational structure is effective in benefiting the host community, which should be the fundamental aim of any volunteer programme. Even without high fees and a governing body, questionable handling of funds can be seen in other organisations such as AEISEC, causing student volunteer 18

GLOBAL the commodification of the host communities, who are subjected to a revolving door of young, white, enthusiastic faces, but never quite seem to reap the same emotional or economic rewards. Although it may not be immediately apparent, there are most definitely economic rewards for those involved in the volunteer tourism industry. Organisations, both for- and not-forprofit, generally employ a certain number of staff whose wages are paid through participation fees, government funding and corporate sponsorship. It is not only the employees who benefit from the growing volunteer tourism industry, but also the government, who recollect a certain amount of donated aid through employees’ taxes, which would be otherwise ‘lost’ through direct aid. Kate Simpson states that volunteer tourists are often young, upper-middle class and Anglo-Saxon, which is unsurprising considering the high costs of participating in a volunteer programme. Most organisations provide fundraising advice, with Suas even providing a fundraising mentor, and often boast that very few would-be volunteers are turned away for failure to secure the target amount. However, this assertion ignores the factors of social and cultural capital constantly at play in society. In simple terms, these forms of capital refer to knowing the ‘right’ people and the ‘right’ things, resulting in the accumulation of economic capital. Wealthy aspiring volunteer tourists are more likely to be surrounded by a wealthy community and have ties to large companies, both of which are capable of contributing greater amounts to sponsorship than working class communities. Furthermore, students who are in a financial position whereby they must engage in paid employment during summer months are excluded from volunteer tourism. Therefore, it is the individuals who already enjoy a privileged position in western society who have the opportunity to avail of the professional style interviews, leadership weekends and networking opportunities associated with volunteer tourism, not to mention the employment

benefits of adding overseas volunteering to a CV. Volunteer organisations could hence inadvertently operate as social mixer groups for the middle class, exchanging social and cultural capital, and reproducing social inequality within western societies. Although this article may come across as excessively cynical, its aim is not to criticise those who engage in overseas volunteering for noble reasons. The construction of an industry of developmental aid is not the fault of the volunteer, yet volunteers often have no choice but to operate within such a system. Rather, this article has attempted to critically asses the current structure of providing developmental aid to the Global South. When researching volunteer opportunities it is important for all individuals to consider the ethical implications of travelling with a particular organisation, as the conflation of any well-meaning movement with capitalism will inevitably open up opportunities for exploitation, of both host communities and the volunteer. Neasa Candon is a Third Year TSM student from Dublin, studying Sociology and German. She is a lover of travelling, sociology and chocolate. • Collins, Daire. (2013) “Is Voluntourism only an expensive ego booster?” University Times. Trinity College Dublin Students’ Union: Dublin. • Hogan, Jack. (2014) “The Grand Voluntour” Trinity News. Trinity Publications: Dublin. • Tourism Research and Marketing (TRAM), 2008. Volunteer Tourism: a Global Analysis. ATLAS Publications: Arnhem.

IRELAND

Trials and tribulations of an

evening student WORDS BY VALENTINA DEAMICIS

s night falls and classrooms empty of young students, tired individuals roam the campus in search of knowledge: evening students. Among them, an Italian woman in her mid-thirties living, working and more recently studying in Dublin. The following is a short recollection of my thoughts and impressions on the life of a part-time student in Trinity College Dublin. One day at the end of September last year, I carefully prepared my notebook, pencil case and diary and set off for the first lecture of my Junior Freshman year of Information Systems at the School of Computer Science in Trinity College. A mix of excitement and fear - of meeting new people, of being unable to reconcile work and study, of falling behind because English is not my mother tongue- filled me while I hurried out of the office to reach the Lloyd Building. This is not my first adventure with third level education: over ten years ago I graduated from the Università degli Studi di Torino with a Bachelor Degree in Spanish and English. So, drawing comparisons between these two experiences is inevitable, even though they couldn’t be more different: different age, 20

discipline and even country. From the very first weeks, I gained an awareness of what was awaiting me behind the gates of Trinity: it was going to be hard work, but it was a well-thought out choice which fitted into my professional plan. Rather different from ten years ago when my choice was based on: “Oh, I want to learn languages and travel the world!” and for several years I was just floating around without a definite direction. It took me longer than expected, I did learn (some) languages, travelled parts of the world and finally settled, almost by chance, in Dublin. But, let’s not forget what it means to be 20: going back to the year 2000, there were no selfies or social media, but the fear of being uncool was definitely widespread at the time too… One of the perks of (relative) maturity is a certain degree of self-confidence, also called “exhaustion”: while you are sitting in a classroom at 7 pm with enough caffeine in your body to fill a small swimming pool and hair that looks like you have been through a wind tunnel after a long day of dealing with small daily crises, meetings and an endless flow of emails, being cool is not your first

IRELAND concern, or even your last. Another aspect of university life is the environment and atmosphere. Of course, when you attend an evening course, some of lecturers are not much older than students, but the difference between the formal and hierarchical attitude in Italy and the friendly and supportive one in Ireland is striking. In Italy, professors are to be treated formally and reverentially and the age gap was huge considering most of the students were in their early 20s. More than a decade later, I have to admit it took me a while before I felt comfortable addressing a lecturer using “you” or even writing an official email. I cringed when I heard other people calling them by their first name! And the internet! The net already existed of course, who remembers the shrieking of the dial up modem? No one? … Let’s move on! While I didn’t need to do much research for papers, the library was nonetheless the place to dig for information by flicking through the cards in the tiny drawers of the “analogic” catalogue to find the book you needed. Now almost everything can be found online: articles, journals, books. I admit I still go to the library to get paper books, even though everything is virtually accessible from any device, as strolling among the shelves is something that cannot be replaced. My last thought is on the teaching itself. Smaller classes guarantee more interactive lectures with students actively participating. Assignments, both individual and group projects, help to spread the workload throughout the year. Exams are a final effort. This learning atmosphere is completely unlike the overcrowded classrooms of Italy, where professors would monologue as though on stage for two hours in front of young folks frantically writing down every word. There would be an exam period three or four times a year: a few weeks in which most students would move almost permanently into the libraries, reading through books, essays and notes to cram into their heads all possible notions and

then sit down for 15 minutes of “questioning” with the professors and their assistants to start over for the next exam scheduled in a week or maybe two. In Trinity College, the experience is completely different. The weeks leading to the exams in May last year were quite challenging:

“ the library was nonetheless the place to dig for information by flicking through the cards in the tiny drawers of the “analogic” catalogue to find the book you needed.” final assignments to submit; revisions and exams to prepare for; and, because Murphy’s Law never forgets you, work got more hectic as the exam session was approaching. Once it began, I realized these were the most intense two weeks I had had in a while: an exam every other day, once I was out of the Examination Hall it was straight home, food and then dive back into the books. One lesson learned: take some days off. Another lesson learned: when you try to remember a word in English to answer a question, it’s not the best moment to have your Spanish come back to you. Let’s be honest, my first experience at university was great in its own way: it definitely suited my fondness of books; it didn’t make me fluent in English, but it gave me the foundations to be able to write at an academic level years later and, most importantly, it made me appreciate how academia works. However, I’m enjoying my second experience at university at the deepest level, every moment of it, even when my eyes are closing in class after a long day of work. So, what can I say… being a student at 20 and at 30 are definitely different experiences, but I regret none of it! Valentina DeAmicis is Italian but has been living and working in Dublin for almost 7 years. She is a senior freshman in the Diploma in Information Systems. 21

AUSTRIA

No Regratz WORDS BY CATHERINE HEARN

ast year, I was fortunate enough to have the opportunity work as a high school English TA in the beautiful Austrian city of Graz (like rats but with a G... don’t try to say it fancy). In retrospect, it was the best year of my life and I have no regrets. However, at the beginning, life felt a little overwhelming. Comically overwhelming in fact. Austrian culture is not so wildly different to Irish culture, but it’s the little things that all add up and sort of make you feel like you’re living on a different planet; from the language barrier to the sassy Austrian youths who I was supposed to be educating. So this is my offering, a tiny insight into the trials and tribulations of my Austrian Adventure.

AUSTRIA First things first. Austrians loves bikes. And I wanted to integrate myself as much as possible into their way of life so I jumped on that bicycle bandwagon. I had a marvellous bike that took deep gasping breaths when I went too fast (that’s the only way to describe the sound) and screeched in pain every time I tried to brake and whom I loved very much. Alas, the lights failed to work, even after my lovely housemate Paul (pronounced Powl- typical Deutsch) took me down to his basement, played me some heavy rap music and fiddled around with the lamp connection thing (… it was far more legit than it sounds though). So every day I perilously attempted to get from A to B and secret confession time? I didn’t understand the rules of the road there. Like, at all. Par example, one day I came face to face with a roundabout which was going the wrong way (obviously) and I just panicked, stopped in the middle of the traffic and waited for another cyclist so I could follow her through the maze…. I watched, amazed, as she ploughed through breezily, thus proving my theory that I didn’t need to learn the rules as no one gave a damn about them anyway. Although, in fairness, I should probably have ceased trying to cycle on the left side… That resulted in splitting open my knee, elbow and any semblance of dignity

I had managed thus far to retain. I’ll admit I did fantasize a rom-com moment in which a dreamy Austrian guy came to my rescue; sadly the only male in the vicinity actually laughed aloud and I was instead helped to my feet by a darling old lady. Such is Austrian life. Yodel yodel.

(yet intimidating) and I wanted to be their friend (please don’t hate me guys). The other teachers were lovely but at the beginning of the year, they often just eyed me suspiciously as if unsure as to why I was suddenly in their midst. Some of them didn’t realize I spoke German and would talk about

School was a laugh and a half. The kids either thought I was weird, annoying or endearing or sometimes a mixture of all three. They just asked me questions about leprechauns, Niall Horan and my personal life (some typical questions being: ‘do you have a boyfriend?’ ‘Nope not at the mom-’ ‘Why not? Why don’t you have one? Do you want one? Hmmm?’ ‘Ummmm....’) I was also asked why my hair is so curly, whether I’ve ever cheated on anyone and if Ireland really is ‘a deeply conservative, religious and racially intolerant society’ (Where did they get the vocab for that? Where??) At one of my schools, the students were really outgoing and hip. The older ones sometimes showed up 10 minutes late, reeking of smoke, with some part of their anatomy freshly pierced and I had to shake my head and tut along with the teacher but deep down, I thought they were really cool

me while I was there. Not cool guys. Adapting to Austrian life was simultaneously effortless and incredibly stressful. Effortless in the sense that I was surrounded by lovely people and pretty scenery and also IKEA (SO many scented candles). The scenery there really is incredible. One day we hiked up a ‘mountain’ and, as we sat sipping wine in this funny candle-lit hut atop the glorified hill, the sun came out to soak everything in gold and synthesize the leaves into flaming red. It was picture perfect. However stress came in the form of banking (where is my pin code? Where?? Am I supposed to guess it? Good one Raffeisen.) and shopping (wait so ‘Hofer’ is just the exact same thing as Aldi? I cycled all this way to Aldi. I hate Aldi. The shop assistants are elusive phantoms who, when they do eventually appear, have little patience for my German and everything was 23

“The minor cultures shocks I endured at the beginning were more than worth it.”

AUSTRIA in the wrong place. And when I would eventually make it to the checkout it was like the scanning Olympics, and I am not a sporty person and also I am an EASILY FLUSTERED SHOPPER ok lady?). Navigating my way home from Scheinbar after downing a bottle of wine by the duck pond was a challenge with which I was also faced (but ok I can’t blame Austria for that one… That was all me). There existed culture clashes I had never anticipated and strangely tense social situations I was unable to navigavte. I didn’t know when I was supposed to introduce myself or wait to be introduced and, wait- what language am I speaking now? And why are you suddenly asking me to speak Irish? You’re not going to understand a word I say. There were rapidly paced group conversations, such as one with my flatmates during which we discussed, as far as I could tell, the sale of a quarter of our vegetable garden. Alas, we did not have a garden… Lost in translation is an understatement. Then again, there were also fiercely competitive table quizzes and bread baking on Sundays and pretty buildings everywhere. And coffee, so much wonderful coffee. The minor cultures shocks I endured at the beginning were more than worth it. Actively engaging with other cultures (even when they are not so different from 24

your own) helps you grow as a person and informs your entire world view. So leave! Go live somewhere new as soon as you can. Endure the initial struggles, safe in the knowledge that it’s the best decision you’ll ever make. (But if you do, please buy lights for your bike. In fact, buying lights for your bike is probably the best decision you’ll ever make. The move to another country thing is secondary to that. But still a great one.) Catherine Hearn is a Third Year student, studying TSM English Literature and German. She loves large dogs, that weird white honey that you can only get in Austria, and travelling. Catherine hates airport security and small talk.

USA

AMERICA’S BEST IDEA WORDS AND PHOTOS BY CAITLIN KIRKE

hen I departed on a 15-hour journey to Bozeman, Montana to spend the next three months working and living in Yellowstone, I had little idea as to what was in store for me. Yellowstone spans 2.2 million acres, most of which forms the caldera of a super volcano. Old faithful Geyser situated in the south west of the park, sits on the most active geyser basin in the world, and this was where I called my home. Working front desk at the Old Faithful Lodge was a culture shock, because the park has a culture of its own, separate even from American culture. Working days revolve around the ‘geyser rush’ occurring every 95 minutes and geyser names, times, interval lengths and geothermal feature terminology were colloquial language. A refuge from world politics, the daily grind and basically all modern civilization provided me with the opportunity to experience the US in an apolitical environment. The lifestyle and customs of American National Parks is unique to visiting any city or state, and with over four million yearly visitors, not to mention the three and a half thousand employees, what makes the trip to rural Wyoming worthwhile for so many?

Yellowstone National Park was the first of its kind in the world, signed into law by President Ulysses S Grant in 1872. In the past 144 years, the park, along with 60 other parks, has been preserved for “the benefit and enjoyment of the people”. This set the precedent that led to a total protected area of 1,294,476 square

kilometres in the United States alone, which has been visited by people from all over the world. If nothing else, the vistas and landscapes of the park are a wonder; Lake Yellowstone, the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone and Mammoth Hot Springs are best experienced through over 1800 kilometres

TRAVEL of hiking trails. Upon working with park veterans who had over twenty seasons under their belt, I realised that for many who come here, life is never the same again. While in theory the idea of staying there forever seems odd, everyday life in such an environment is fulfilling in ways modern society never could be, and there is more to see in the park than is feasible in a lifetime. Yellowstone is home to the finest megafauna wildlife habitat in the lower 48 states. There are only two that people will go to extreme lengths to see; grey wolves and grizzly bears. The wolves of Yellowstone were reintroduced in 1995 and now thrive in the park, enthusiasts tend to set up scopes in the most popular areas and wait for hours to spot them. Seeing

a grizzly bear is for many a once in a lifetime opportunity, and in the early summer months they are easily spotted. Aside from these, an abundance of elk, bison, pronghorns and coyotes happily cause traffic jams as they meander through the park. The truly unique park fea-

can be easily caught by day visitors, given that they erupt as often as once every three hours. For the diehards, who refer to themselves as “Geyser Gazers”, the less predictable the geyser, the more attractive it is. There are clear favourites in this regard, and while tourists go to see old Faithful, the real

“ For the diehards, who refer to themselves as “Geyser Gazers”, the less predictable the geyser, the more attractive it is” ture is of course its many hot springs and geyser basins. Old Faithful which, whilst in itself impressive, serves almost as a gateway drug to the array of other geysers in the park. The upper geyser basin has five easily predictable geysers. These

gem of the upper geyser basin is Beehive, an employee favourite that is deafeningly loud as is shoots sixty-one metres in the air (for comparison, Old Faithful will average at forty-four). The other highly anticipated feature in the area is Fan and Mortar

USA Geyser which attracts a dedicated crowd when it erupts, and the intervals can range from two to two hundred and fifty days, so you either hope to get lucky or choose to be very patient. Under serendipitous circumstances, I was able to watch the sunrise over the Upper Geyser Basin from the crow’s nest of the Old Faithful Inn, the largest log hotel in the world and the first of its kind in a National Park. As the sun crept over the surrounding mountains and flooded the desolate basin with an early autumnal light, Grand Geyser erupted in the distance, audible only because of how early it was, its spray coating the surrounding forest. I couldn’t help but reflect on the fleeting nature of the park. Built in a volcano with unpredictable

activity, earthquakes can create and destroy many of the park’s geothermal features and the spreading of hot springs means roads and buildings have to be constantly modified. Much of park life is subjected to changing weather and tectonic activity. Furthermore, almost everything that attracts people to the park is fundamentally dangerous, with injuries and even deaths resulting from bear attacks and the geothermal features themselves. There is a recklessness inherent in the enjoyment of park life. Despite its marvels, the park hasn’t always been well protected. Solitary geyser was used to pipe hot water to the Old Faithful Inn which irreparably damaged the water system, and in the parks, early history visitors would load the cone

of Old Faithful with laundry. Despite this, you can sit and watch the same geysers erupt that once bewildered the great mountain men in 1870 who discovered them, which, to me, is nothing short of a miracle. With this year being the centennial of the National Park Service, it is worth remembering that while 2016 has not been what many had hoped, in one sense it is a year to celebrate what Ken Burns referred to as “America’s Best Idea”. Caitlin Kirke is a second year BESS student studying Economics and Politics. She is passionate about the outdoors and the environment and the third generation in her family to work in a National Park.

MALAYSIA

THE

BORNEAN I

n theory, we werenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t supposed to wander offsite in the evenings. With regards to the neighbouring jungle, this made a lot of sense. Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d been on a night trek once before, and encountered spiders as broad as our hands, and gleaming vipers wrapped around the trunks above our heads. The jungle was alive at night and it was safer in our beds. I would sometimes sit on the balcony outside my bedroom and listen to the honk of hornbills, and the gibber of gibbons, rumbling from its interminable thickets, like a nocturnal heartbeat within.

MALAYSIA

RAINFOREST WORDS BY FERGUS TREMAR MENENDEZ

MALAYSIA I was washing my boots in the yard when Moon wandered over to me with a wide smile across his face and leant on the wall opposite. “Fergus, my English brother,” he greeted me. “Moon, my Malaysian brother,” I replied in turn. This was now a customary greeting we had established in the recent weeks. He lowered his voice and glanced around to check no one else was listening. “I want you to meet my family, Fergus,” he announced “I’ve been telling them about you and they want you to visit them tonight.” “Are you sure?” “Very sure.” Twenty minutes later, I hopped on the back of his motorbike and we scuttled off into the dark. Moon was one of the staff at the Sepilok Rest House, where myself and eleven other volunteers were staying. He cooked us large platters of noodles, chicken and vegetables each evening which we doused in sweet chilli and soya sauce. We played badminton with weather-worn rackets out in the car park at weekends. He occasionally offered us this strange lychee-alcohol in pitchers which tasted more like paint stripper than fruit. We had bonded when the Rest House staff decided it was time to teach me some Malay – specifically swear words, insults, and innuendos. On one side, the rainforest whipped past whilst on the other, the uniform trunks of plantation trees rolled sequentially by. A truck up ahead stirred up dust clouds from the road and I pulled down my visor. Mosquitos slapped past my eyes. Suddenly we saw a barricade of police vehicles up ahead. “Do you have your passport with you?” Moon asked. I didn’t. “No bother!” he declared, and promptly swerved off the road onto a smaller, potholed side-track that slung shot around the side of 30

barricade and back onto the main road beyond. When I had asked earlier, Moon had said his family lived ‘just down the road’. We had now been driving in the jungle for an hour and I was growing tense. Nonetheless, I felt a certain childish thrill when I considered how unwise this all was. None of the volunteers knew where I was and my family certainly didn’t know either. In a technological age where our presence is constantly known to somebody else, I had finally succeeded in falling ‘off the map’. Eventually we puttered through the gates of a sleepy estate at the edge of a plantation, and trundled up a dirt track, past an assortment of shacks where men sat on their verandas, drinking beer and playing cards. We stopped outside a neat row of terraced houses with boots and bicycles arranged by the patio. A mound of coconuts sat off to one side. We were greeted by a man who I gauged by appearance to be Moon’s brother. He led me through a stone doorway into a room, where I was greeted rapturously by excited family members; Moon’s elder sister, (who was no taller than my shoulder) and her husband, grinning broadly, plus three other girls hopping from wall to wall and a baby propped placidly in the mother’s arms. The room was a narrow communal space with purple walls, and purple curtains, and a floor covered by pink tessellated wallpaper. We sat down and began greeting one another, me using my haphazard attempts at speaking Malay to introduce myself. The sister brought out a jar of a sweet coffee mixture which was generously poured into my mug. The husband explained how he had lost his arm in an industrial accident once, and now ran an onsite convenience store for the plantation workers instead. He instructed one of the children to run off to the store and the child returned with a hefty bag of chocolate and banana cream biscuits, which were enthusiastically gifted to

“Intensive logging is removing swathes of jungle-habitat, whose innumerable species are becoming increasingly endangered.”

MALAYSIA me. I insisted that I wasn’t hungry, I had already eaten dinner, no need to bother, but they insisted in turn that I had to eat more and began to fry me up some soya chicken with cabbage and rice out the back. Of course, I duly accepted my second meal of the evening and it was scrumptious. Another jar of sweet coffee arrived after I finished the first, and I polished that off too, after which I rolled back and declared definitively that I really couldn’t eat any more. I showed them photos on my iPod of my life back home, my garden in the springtime, and the adjoining house, and the hills and valleys around the area. They told me it looked all very beautiful and despite the images being relayed through an underwhelming handheld screen, I took a second look at them myself and supposed they actually did. I was bequeathed a coconut and then led on to the next port of call, an outhouse at the bottom of the hill where Moon’s grandparents were looking after his nieces and nephews. Barefoot toddlers ran back and forth, too embroiled in their games to notice our presence at first. Moon led me over to a solitary drum kit in the corner and handed me some drumming sticks. He knew I was a drummer; now I was being invited to play. At the first whack of the cymbal, the prancing children stopped and gathered obediently in front of the kit to listen. The drum kit was painfully out of tune and the snare-wires loose. All three tom-toms sounded exactly the same. And yet my audience were rapt; they began to dance. For a brief moment in that jungle, I was some sort of musical maestro. Racing home through the rainforest later that evening, the plantations caught my eye once again. They really were enormous. They stretched off over the landscape further than I could see, row after row of palm trees for miles on end. Plantations such as these are an economic necessity for the people of Borneo. They have brought Malaysia the investment and infrastructure that allows people to visit the island and appreciate its culture. And yet they are devastating the wildlife of the island. This region of Sabah has some limits set

on the amount of land that can be felled, limits which have almost been reached and cannot be surpassed. But other parts of the island are not so environmentally conscious; bribery and corruption mean that any amount of rainforest can be bulldozed. Intensive logging is removing swathes of jungle-habitat, whose innumerable species are becoming increasingly endangered. The demand for palm oil in the West is the critical issue; it is in so many of the everyday products we consume shampoo and soap, butter and bread. If we can create a demand for palm fruit that is farmed sustainably at its source, where wildlife corridors are maintained on the plantations rather than monocultures, then we might be able to stem the harm that deforestation invokes. Yet I know that as I browse the supermarket aisles, scouting for bargains and discounted cookie bags, I’m seldom aware of the sustainability of my shopping basket. I’m far more conscious of the constraints of my student budget and the immediate gargling of my stomach, rather than of the environmental footprint of my chocolate collection. It can be very hard to shop in a way that elicits demand for sustainable palm oil. It rarely even crosses our minds. But I will continue to write about it, and to advocate for a collective consciousness of what we consume. Why? Because as I sat upon Moon’s saddle, and stared out at the perpetual reams of palm-tree branches ahead of me, extending over a horizon that would once have been green and lush, but was now studded and bare, I realized that the real dangers in our world lie in complacency of these matters, and not in me slipping out for an evening upon Moon’s motorbike. Sooner or later, something definitive needs to be done. Fergus Tremar Menendez is a second year English Literature and History student.

SCOTLAND

SEVEN DAYS WALKING THROUGH

SCOTLAND’S ISLE OF SKYE WORDS AND PHOTO BY DAVID FLOOD

Christmas of 2015 my brother gave me a book, titled “The Skye Trail”. This was typical of him, a book about a trail I’d never heard of in a place I’d never heard of. Nine months later, twenty years old, entering second year of college and never having gone on so much as a one day hike on my own, I find myself stepping off a bus into a small rainy town on an island in northern Scotland. The following are some excerpts from my adventure…

SCOTLAND

SCOTLAND September 1st After a short flight to Glasgow, followed by a 7 hour bus through the stunning Scottish highlands, I stepped into Portree, the main town of Scotland’s north-western Isle of Skye. Stocked up on provisions, I took another bus to Skye’s most northerly tip. As I watched the bus disappear over the crest of the hill, I felt for the first time that my adventure was finally beginning. Alone, in the rain, with all the provisions needed to keep me going for the next three days on my back, I was ready. Content with my own company, I set off across the unmarked trail to the northern headland and starting point of the Rubha Hunnish trail. An imposing line of cliff faces runs along the northern coast with a small headland at their feet. I thought here would be the perfect spot for my first night’s sleep. Despite the constant mist, my spirits weren’t dampened. However, as I sat in my tent after dinner, it suddenly dawned on me what I was doing: how completely alone and inexperienced I was. Nobody knew where to find me if something went wrong. I could depend only on myself, my own skills and common sense. That scared me. September 2nd I woke up after a night of cold, broken sleep (even with 34

all my thermals, socks, gloves, hat and clothes on, my sleeping bag was far too light) and grouchily started packing up my things for my first full day’s hike. I popped my head out of my tent to deduce the accuracy of the rain forecast. What I found, to my absolute joy, was a shy sun poking its head through morning clouds, dancing off the waves which were gently lapping off the now picturesque cliff face. Filled with a newfound sense of appreciation for the landscape, I cheerily began my hike. The landscape held me in

my only source of hot meals and drinks for the next two days, gone. With my longest and hardest day ahead, over 28.5km of walking and 1750m of climbing, the only edible food I had were tins of sardines, trail mix and a few snickers. Do sardines and trail mix actually taste better than you’d think? No, no they do not. So much for this ‘being independent’ business. September 3rd The most valuable lesson I learned today? A fellow traveller knows as much (or as little) as you do. I walked with a Polish mother and daughter who were adamant about their navigation skills through the poor conditions. I was lost and they were more experienced so I followed them. It turns out they were equally lost; it just took us longer to realise it. So, I’ve just pitched camp now at 10p.m., a solid 14 hours after I set out this morning. The day started brilliantly, apart from a breakfast of sardines and trail mix, the smell of which seeps into your skin and clothes and bag forever. Things took a turn for the worst once I started up the Trotternish ridge. I entered into a dense cloud that kept me company for the next couple of hours, disabling my vision for more than 20 meters in any direction. As my morale dropped, and my legs grew tired, I started

“Despite the constant mist, my spirits weren’t dampened.” awe the whole way down to the end of my first stage. With a pep in my step, I pitched camp and went to make dinner, which promptly killed any buzz I had been feeling. I set down my bag to get my flint, but it wasn’t there, so I checked my pockets. Still no luck. I kept calm(ish) and checked the other pockets of my bag, before emptying out the contents of my bag completely and checking my pockets once more, like reopening an empty fridge and expecting food to appear. Realising I had left it at the abandoned radar station that I ate lunch in, I had to come to terms with the fact that my flint was gone. My only means of lighting my stove,

SCOTLAND fighting the walk instead of enjoying it, and that took its toll. Stopping to pitch camp crossed my mind many a time but I knew how little that would solve. Giving up isn’t an option; all that does is put it off until tomorrow. But I am now lying in bed one day closer to Portree and despite everything, I’m relishing this experience. September 4th Luckily for me the Old Man of Store is a big attraction in Skye, and I bumped into two friendly Belgian lads who were on the same hike as me. Thankfully, they lent me their lighter for my first hot meal in two days. Oh man was it good. My luck lasted; the clouds had vanished, leaving clear blue skies under which I meandered down the coast. One more long stretch, and I finally arrive back in Portree, which to my delight is full of traditional pubs and chippers. What losing my flint taught me is that this isn’t some episode of Bear Grylls, not a trial by fire but rather a holiday that I’ve paid for with my own money, so why not enjoy it? My epiphany quickly manifested itself in a decadent shopping list of bagels, cheese, peanut butter, pot noodles and other luxuries. All throughout my trip, I’d constantly catch myself smiling while pausing to look at the landscape. The deafening silence of the countryside and

simple day to day living gave me so much space to think. The only company I had was this journal and “The Snow Leopard” by Peter Matthiesen, which proved to be more than enough. Skye is an incredible place. There is only so much of the charm and beauty of such isolated areas that I can convey in words, because to be truly understood, I think they just need to be experienced first-hand. David Flood is a second year Engineering student, who loves travelling and being in nature.

AUSTRIA

VIENNA WAITS FOR YOU WORDS BY IRENE BROCKIE

Vienna: the best city in the world

t’s beautiful year round, very affordable, and you’ll never be stuck for something to do! Here are my top tips for a weekend in the city. If the Christmas markets aren’t up and running, there are lots of other lovely things to do! Schönbrunn is definitely worth it, I’ve been there approx. 134556 times

“It’s beautiful year round, very affordable, and you’ll never be stuck for something to do!”

but it’s lovely to walk around and the view from the top (Gloriette) is fab! Take the U4 to Schönbrunn station. If you’re into palaces (which of course you are), Belvedere is also a must-see. I personally prefer it to Schönbrunn but you can decide for yourself 36

which is more appealing. Weiß der Himmel! Get the 71 tram in the direction of the Zentralfriedhof. I would recommend getting a tram round the Ring (D, 71 or 1) from Schottentor - you can step inside the main building of the University of Vienna - all the way to the Kärntner Ring (Karlsplatz, the stop for the Oper and the centre of town), and just taking it all in. You’ll see the Burgtheater, the Parlament and two gorgeous museum buildings. If you want check out museums, my favourite is the Kunsthistorisches Museum. The building itself is nothing other than DIVINE and the art’s not bad either – lots of great Flemish and Dutch art. It’s eleven euro in, I think, and definitely worth it. You can walk through the gardens of the museums to Museumsquartier, which is nice to have a trot round in.

AUSTRIA Also have a gallop (on your steed) up the Kärntner Straße (U-Bahn stop Karlsplatz) and you’ll end up at the corner of Graben, which is a gorgeous street filled with posh shops and cafés. To the right is Stephansdom - bit dark but worth a nose. You’ll feel very holy. Avoid annoying men dressed in 17th century costumes trying to sell you concert tickets, by speaking rapidly in Irish. Always works! The city centre’s very easy to

walk around due to its surprisingly compact size, and lovely to admire. You’ll find the Green Knight in one of the Wiener Kaffeehäuser - my favourite coffee house of all time is Café Central, on Herrengasse. Other good ones are Demel or Café Landtmann, which is beside the Burgtheater. There’s also a lovely café inside the Kunsthistorisches Museum, and Café Prückel at Stubenring is authentic, airy and serves delicious cakes.

Remember to always ask for tap water (as you’ll only get a tiny glass which wouldn’t quench the thirst of a mouse) when your cake is served. The café inside the Hotel Sacher is filled with tourists – but I still think it’s worth a visit, and it’s not as overpriced as you might think. If you have time, check out Prater Park and the Riesenrad (Ferris Wheel) for a nice trot round the amusements and park. The Riesenrad

AUSTRIA will still be open – it’s bit pricey at €8.50 but the view is great! If you’re lucky enough to be visiting Vienna during the warmer months take the U1 to Donauinsel and enjoy chilling by the Donau. You’ll see a beautiful sunset if you turn left out of the U-Bahn and follow the river towards a large tower. Plonk yourself by the Greek restaurant nearby, have a dip and relax – there’s often music and dancing on weekends. The best ice cream in Vienna can be found at Veganista- they have a couple of locations and the ice cream is just to die for.

Eating The Naschmarkt (U4 Kettenbrückengasse) is great for a wander and for procuring a few samples of falafel. Feeling peckish? 1 euro for 8 falafel has saved me from starvation many a time. There are loads of restaurants here too – a favourite of mine is Deli am Naschmarkt, which is great value and really tasty. There are good Asian and sushi places there too, like Li’s Cooking, and a fantastically trendy Middle Eastern fusion restaurant called Neni which serves a delicious signature dish called the Jerusalemteller. If you’re broke, you can’t beat the Sly and Arny on Lackierergasse, a bit hidden away behind a big leopard print door about 5 minutes up the Währinger Strasse. A giant pizza for 4 euro? JA BITTE! If 38

you want to try Schnitzel, the best in Wien is to be found at Schnitzelwirt on Neubaugasse 52. Portions are ginormous so sharing is recommended! It’s closed on Sundays and the staff are very eccentric but ultimately friendly (they always greeted us warmly as we went in there many times to stuff our faces). Ra’mien on Gumpendorferstrasse is amazing too – fresh Thai food - but maybe a bit expensive on a budget. They often have lovely fish dishes. At similar prices, Das Kolin offers dishes which are good quality, and the atmosphere is friendly, trendy and relaxed (Kolingasse 5).

Bars and going out 25 hours hotel (Dachboden) is a cool rooftop bar - full of hipsters and attractive people. Not the cheapest, so good for one drink and several snaps. There are loads of lovely bars and cafés to

be discovered if you walk up from there and turn left – you’re in the 7th district, so walk along Neubaugasse and Siebensterngasse. Siebensternbräu has lots of lovely beers on tap and Amerlingbeisl has a great atmosphere and a cosy courtyard. I would definitely recommend Café Leopold - it offers a fab view of the Museumsquartier courtyard. When my friend visited, I brought her there and two Austrian Männer flocked to us and gave us the many compliments. So do check it out if you’re on a husband-hunt. There are lots of bars around the Bermudadreieck (U1 or U4 Schwedenplatz, a walk down from Kärntner Strasse). Bermuda Bräu and Strandbar Hermann (the latter is an artificial beach bar, great but only open in the summer) are two which spring to mind.

AUSTRIA Clubs There are loads to choose from! Volksgarten is Wien’s ‘most famous disco’ and is always good on Friday or Saturday - Saturday is normally a bit technoey so maybe try it Friday. It’s rather expensive and fancy enough but worth it! Säulenhalle next door is less pretentious and also fun. Passage at Burgring is good but it can be a young crowd good if you’re searching for a youthful Jung. Loads of places on the Gürtel (the U6 runs along it) are good. Le Loft is one and Travelshack (think International Coppers in a bar setting) is always open if you’re stuck/want a laugh. U4

is also good but a bit far away (U4 Meidlinger Hauptstraße). Praterdome can be fun, and Pratersauna is fantastic in the summer as it’s got its own swimming pool! (U2 Praterstern or Messe Prater). Some of them can be very techno on the weekends, like Grelle Forelle, a techno paradise - but I really like it!

of different countries and cities by bus or train. Vienna isn’t nicknamed ‘The City of Dreams’ for nothing! Irene Brockie is a senior sophister English student who loves nothing more than travelling, speaking other languages and faffing around in foreign lands.

Most important piece of information Go to Vienna ASAP! It’s literally got everything you could want in a city, and I discovered something new every day. Situated right in the centre of Europe, you’ve got the freedom to travel to a plethora