To tie or not to tie

To tie or not to tie with Alan Riddell - assisted by Jack Jones

To tie or not to tie with Alan Riddell

T

he art of combining wool , wire and poultry feathers to create something that we believe we can use to outwit fish, has been in existence for centuries. Despite the fact that the most effective flies have probably been invented and come into popular usage many years ago, anglers still try to create something they believe hasn’t been seen before – either by the fish or other anglers.

It is very definitely an achievement to catch a trout on a fly that you have tied yourself, but it can be quite a journey before that happens. The winter evenings can also pass much quicker when tying and it always creates an air of anticipation waiting for the season to start.

There are, however, a few questions that need to be addressed before that decision to tie is reached, and a cheap way of obtaining flies is not one of the answers. The one overriding element in tying your own is “choice”, and this where you are able to use the correct hook and materials required for a particular pattern. An important issue is whether you have a good environment to work in as it can be discouraging if you have to spend a great deal of time getting everything out and clearing up every time. Of course, good lighting is important but a decent angle poise lamp with a daylight bulb is usually adequate. I have been fortunate to have a very tolerant wife and have managed to get away with tying within sight of the television! I am afraid that very rough hands are not good as I have

Alan Riddell - fly tying, with Jack Jones keeping an eye on proceedings! seen material shredded before it has reached the hook by “abused hands” trying to handle it. My hands have not really had to suffer “hard work” and also, being a musician of sorts, I have been able to preserve them. In addition, with the aging process there can be a deterioration in eyesight, but if you are not sure, have an eye test and take it from there, as headaches generated by eye-strain are just not worth it.

Fly in the process of being tied

Having made the decision that you will now take up the challenge you have set yourself, you should try and avoid some of the pitfalls when it comes to choice of tools and materials. Over the years, engineers have created wonders of their art to hold the hook whilst tying, costing in excess of £200. The majority of vices, irrespective of cost, tend to rely on the lever principle and a cam to close the jaws, but I do tend to prefer the reverse principle. I use one which has the jaws permanently closed under pressure and they are opened by a lever similar to that of a motor-cycle clutch, and this vice allows me to change hook size without any adjustment and it will hold hooks from size 20 up to at least 5/0 . That really does cover everything you might need from small stream dry flies up to saltwater or pike flies.

From a commercial point of view it also saves time, but from a novice tier’s perspective it makes holding the hook a simple operation which does not detract from the actual tying process. This vice retails at less than £50.

Scissors are probably one of the most abused items not just in fly tying but quite often in life generally and subsequently it is wise to invest in a good pair of fine curved scissors for the routine work, but have a cheaper straight pair for cutting

heavier materials such as heavy wire or quill stems. Other tools are really a matter of choice and need according to what you are tying. A whip finish tool and hackle pliers are usually the next requirements.

The major difficulty arises though in choosing hooks and materials. Over recent years there have been many developments with synthetics as some of the natural materials in use at the turn of the 20th Century are either protected or extinct. There are however, still some natural items that are the by-product of either pest control or the food chain, but if you

are offered squirrel tails, pheasant tails or similar “wild” items, they must be disinfected and dried properly. I have lost expensive feathers through unexpected visitors migrating in drawers, and moth balls here are essential and can be obtained in crystal form for fly tying.

Bouts of bird ‘flu in Asia have impacted on the feather market, and stocks of the Indian style of cock and hen capes have suffered as a direct result. If you intend to tie dry flies for the rivers it is preferable to use genetic hackles. These feathers come from specially reared birds to produce stiffer, longer and more specific hackles, primarily used for high quality flies required to float high. Whilst a whole neck cape can cost in excess of £50.00 , half capes are available from some suppliers and that will help in acquiring the range of colours needed to achieve a selection of flies. There have also been packets of mixed genetic hackles which is an even more cost effective way of obtaining a selection. It is worth knowing that up to 8 flies can be tied with one single hackle from a genetic cape.

You are now also in control of the foundation for the fly – the hook.

There are many good makes out there, and you can be quite specific on the pattern according to the fly. In the last three years barbless hooks have become commonplace alongside catch and release fishing on more stillwaters and there are some very good patterns out there.

Most “recipes” for flies will either give a specific brand and pattern number or a description of the hook most suitable for that fly and as your knowledge grows, you will develop an instinct for hooks and also your own preference for brand and style.

As you may have worked out, I have talked specifically about individual items, and that it is far better to obtain specific items that you will use. Tying kits are out there and look very nice, but cannot give you the cross section of items you require, as you will end up with materials you don’t need or even worse – tying flies you don’t really need or would use. It is therefore an essential part of the process to sit down and list your usual patterns and then the components which should culminate in a specific shopping list. I would suggest that you go to your local shop for advice if you are not sure about what you require.

I hope that I have not been too negative, but I have found that most people who have thought about tying their own have actually gone out and done it. It is very much where you want to take it to, be it just to supplement the more complex patterns commercially available with simpler ones from yourself, or to reach the levels of making such realistic examples that they look like they will crawl off the table.

If you need advice on fly tying equipment or materials, Alan from The Country Sports Shop is happy to help on 01626 367171 or galanriddell@hotmail.co.uk

Getting Started Tools:

• Vice • Thread bobbin • Hackle pliers • Whip finish tool Materials: • Feathers • Tying thread ls

• Selection of wires and tinse

seatrout tube flies

Cock and hen capes twisted around the hook to form the fly hackles

The "take"