Ecotourism in Spain Guide to sustainable destinations Protected areas and companies awarded the European Charter of Sustainable Tourism
The European Charter of Sustainable Tourism (ECST) is an initiative designed to promote effectively the aims of sustainable tourism in protected natural areas by means of accreditations given to signatories that commit themselves to implementing the objectives of the Charter. The European Charter was set up between 1995 and 1998 by managers of protected areas and representatives of the tourism industry, and is funded by the EU’s LIFE programme. It aims to act as a participatory planning tool involving all local stakeholders. The implementation process is carried out in three phases, in which all the signatories commit themselves voluntarily to improving the sustainability of their tourism activities: I. Accreditation of the protected area, defined in an five-year action plan. II. Tourism businesses sign a partnership agreement with the protected area in question that includes a three-year action plan aimed at improving the sustainability of the company. III. Tour operators sign the partnership agreement. The Charter is coordinated by the Europarc Federation, which acts as an umbrella body for the protected natural areas of 38 European countries and oversees all the application and verification processes. Of the 75 protected areas in Europe who have been awarded the European Charter, 28 are Spanish. This guide provides information for travellers and tour operators about the activities and tasks carried out in Spain during phases I and II of the Charter.
Ecotourism in Spain Guide to sustainable destinations Protected areas and companies awarded the European Charter of Sustainable Tourism
CREDITS Published by: Spanish Institute of Tourism (Turespaña) Project manager: Ricardo Blanco (Head of Department of Sustainable Tourism, Subdirectorate General of Development and Sustainability, Turespaña) Concept and management: Ángeles de Andrés Design and edition: José Manuel Reyero Texts Natural parks: Daniel Burón, José M.ª Montero, Josep M.ª Prats Company data-sheets: Cristina Vega, Susana Casado, Alfredo Ortega Other collaborators: Patricia Elola, Elena Muñoz, Isabel Junquera, María Villa Research: Almudena de Velasco Photographs Diego López (Andalusian natural parks) Jordi Bas (La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park) Other collaborators: Daniel Burón, Óscar Díez, José Luis Gómez de Francisco, Mamut Sierra Nevada, Juan Muñoz, José Manuel Reyero, Manuel Román, Juan Tébar Maps: cartographic information provided by the Andalusian Ministry of the Environment and SigVulcà (La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park). Maps adapted by Matilde de la Vara Copy editor: Federico Romero English translation: Michael Lockwood, Teresa Farino, John Muddeman Acknowledgements: many thanks to Europarc Spain and to all the staff who work in the public use and access departments of the protected natural areas that appear in this book.
Edition: Comunicación y Gestión Ambiental ALAIRE S. L. Printing and binding: V.A. Impresores, S.A.
NIPO: 701-10-014-3 Legal Deposit: M-53648-2009 Printed in Spain Printed on FSC-certified paper
All rights reserved. No part of this publication, including the cover, may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted, in any form or by any means, electronic, mechanical, photocopying, photochemical, optical, recording or otherwise without the prior permission of the owner of the copyright.
INDEX Welcome
5
Preface
6
Introduction
7
La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park Companies based in La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park
10 18
Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche Natural Park Companies based in the Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche Natural Park
32 38
Do単ana Natural Space Companies based in the Do単ana Natural Space
48 55
Los Alcornocales Natural Park Companies based in Los Alcornocales Natural Park
70 79
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park Companies based in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park
84 91
Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks Companies based in the Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks
102 111
Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park Companies based in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park
125 134
INDEX
3
t is a great pleasure for me to present this publication, the first guide to sustainable ecotourism destinations published by Turespaña. This guide not only shows the magnificent diversity of Spain, and what it offers tourists, but also the administration’s efforts to improve the sustainability and competitiveness of the Spanish tourist system. It is not just a compilation of tourist infrastructures located in certain areas of the country, but rather, an attempt to agglutinate the tourism businesses committed to sustainable tourism and development that are based in these protected natural areas. It thus aims to be both a guide and a catalogue.
I
Joan Mesquida Secretary of State for Tourism
This guide will enable travellers to get to know in greater detail a select group of protected natural areas that, in terms of their natural heritage, are not only some of the most important natural sites in Spain and even Europe, but are also the natural parks that have made the firmest commitment to ensuring the sustainability of the tourism that is practiced within their boundaries. It is also a reference work for finding service providers that are fully committed to sustainable tourism and can guarantee respectful eco-tourist practices during its daily operations. This guide is centred on the first seven Spanish protected areas to be awarded the European Charter of Sustainable Tourism (ECST) out of the current total of 28 such protected areas in Spain. For each area there is an introduction with a description of its most significant natural and cultural values, followed by valuable information about the public facilities and services on offer and, finally, details of the businesses located in the area in question that have been awarded the ECST. Each company has its data-sheet, which contains relevant details concerning the sustainable practices that it has put into operation and practical information for travellers wishing to contract any of their services. This book is the result of the work of many professionals, from the technical staff who have helped service providers improve the sustainability of their businesses, to the writers and photographers, who in their work, have strived to reflect the essence of each natural space and each business. Turespaña, and all those involved on a daily basis in the protected areas included in this work, hope that the publication of this guide will be an effective contribution to make our tourism more sustainable. It should also be useful too for travellers and tour operators alike who are planning trips to Spain. This publication reflects the Spanish tourist administration’s firm commitment to sustainable ecotourism. I hope you enjoy reading this guide and use it when visiting the protected natural areas it includes.
5
PREFACE pain is remarkable for the variety of its climates, relief and landscapes, in goodly part due to four distinct biogeographical regions that harbour a range of natural features that are one of the main attractions for the tourists of all types that visit its shores and mountains. The best of Spanish wildlife is today protected by its many natural parks, and it has been shown that these protected areas can act as a motor for local development, for example in the guise of the increasingly popular practice of ecotourism. As a means towards ensuring that the development of ecotourism is compatible with the main objectives of protected areas, the European Charter of Sustainable Tourism (ECST) under the auspices of the European Union was drawn up jointly by conservation managers representing protected areas and the tourist industry. Currently, more protected areas have been awarded the ECST in Spain than in any other European country — in all, 28 out of a total of 75 parks — and all have set in motion programmes designed to promote sustainable tourism: the time has now come for both the public and private sector to take advantage of this initial momentum and forge on ahead. The Plan Spanish Tourism Horizon 2020 launched by the State Secretariat of Tourism aims to improve the sustainability and competitiveness of the Spanish model of tourism and one of its objectives is to encourage the implementation of sustainable tourism models in protected areas visited by tourists. Turespaña is actively investing resources in protected areas that have been awarded the ECST, given that this accreditation guarantees a commitment by all involved to implement a series of initiatives aimed at converting these areas into sustainable tourist destinations. This commitment is undertaken by environmental protection agencies and tourist boards alike, and aims to fulfil two of the requirements of the ECST:
S
• to help tourism companies located in protected areas to implement more sustainable practices and to establish a close working relationship with the administrators of the protected area in question. • to create tourist products that are specifically linked to the protected areas, in other words, ecotourism products. To fulfil this first requirement and promote the involvement of the private sector, the State Secretariat of Tourism via Turespaña designed and financed a system involving Europarc-Spain, the tourist and environmental administrations of the Spanish autonomous communities and Local Action Groups whereby businesses could initiate the process of opting for the ECST. This methodology was approved 6
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
by the European Federation of National and Natural Parks and by its Spanish branch, Europarc-España, in which all the Spanish autonomous communities and the Spanish Government are represented. Turespaña has pioneered the development of this system and its use, and nowhere else has such a high level of cooperation between environmental and tourist administrations been achieved. In terms of the requirement to create ecotourist products, Turespaña has set up a pilot process in the protected areas that have been awarded the ECST and is currently designing a Ecotourism Product Club for these very same protected areas. If the commercialisation of a tourist product is to be successful, all the links of a long chain of different entities must put in a lot of hard work; and if the aim is to sell experiences and emotions via tourism, all the implicated parts must work together to ensure that products are based on the authentic values and qualities of the protected areas in question. Thus, the aim of this guide is to promote the products generated by providers committed to sustainability in both their daily activities and in the protected areas in which they operate. In order to aid the companies opting for the ECST, it was first necessary to provide technical advice and assistance, in which the managers of the protected areas involved played a decisive role. This guide is a first step in the promotion of those protected areas and businesses that have been awarded the ECST. The idea is to provide tourists and travellers wishing to get to know first-hand the protected natural areas that actively promote sustainable tourism with a means of experiencing the singular pleasure of visiting such a park, and to guarantee the quality of the services designed to enable visitors to discover the joys of these wonderful natural areas. We hope that the ecotourists that come to Spain — as well as those that simply wish to spend a few days in one of our protected areas — will find this guide a useful way of getting to know Spain’s protected areas and a good tool for finding service providers who will offer truly sustainable activities and experiences. We encourage all tour operators to work with businesses awarded the ECST as a means of offering their clients a guarantee that their visit is contributing to the sustainable development of the area they are travelling to. In the future the Ecotourism Product Club in accredited natural protected areas will help organise tourist products based on the criteria of quality and sustainability. It also aims to bring together companies that voluntarily want to participate in this process and help participants to promote their products in such a way that they will reach people looking to contribute to the sustainable development of the places they holiday in. Turespaña
INTRODUCTION ustainable tourism is not as such a type of tourism, as many people believe; rather, it is a way of organising tourist activities. Although it goes without saying that all tourist development must be sustainable, it is essential that the tourism practiced in the protected natural areas that harbour a country or a region’s best-preserved wildlife be sustainable. Due to their natural attractions, these areas are becoming increasingly popular as tourist destinations and if not regulated and controlled with great care, visitor numbers may well begin to have a negative impact on these ecosystems and landscapes, which are habitually fragile and exceedingly vulnerable to excessive visitor pressure. The European Charter of Sustainable Tourism (ECST) was born out of a desire to reconcile conservation and tourism, and acts as a participatory planning instrument that aims to develop sustainable tourism in protected areas; specifically, one of its objectives is to help tourist companies located within protected areas that have been awarded the ECST to establish close ties with the management of these areas. Essentially, these links mean that businesses voluntarily commit themselves to adopting measures to improve the sustainability of their businesses via a collaboration agreement with the protected area in question. Since the first Spanish protected area was awarded the ECST in 2001 a lot of hard work has been put in, and this guide hopes to repay this effort by highlighting those parks and businesses that have gone to great lengths to ensure the sustainability of their activities. Thus, this is a very important book and one that aims to be both:
S
• a guide to encourage travellers to improve their knowledge of the protected areas that have taken most steps towards promoting sustainable tourism in Spain; • and a catalogue to help visitors choose the businesses that are most committed to offering sustainable and singular ecotourism activities in the area they are visiting. This guide is the result of a lengthy period, begun in 2005, in which Turespaña provided support for the ECST and for the accredited protected areas and the companies located in these areas. This guide is not a simple promotional catalogue of the tourism activities in a particular part of the world and instead offers travellers a choice of singular activities that are all compatible with a commitment to sustainable tourism and the promotion of protected natural areas. Of the 28 Spanish ECST-accredited areas, this guide concentrates on the seven oldest such areas, given that their experience in working towards sustainability has helped steer local businesses through the process of being awarded the Charter.
In all, 91 businesses are described, all of which have had to work hard to reach this point in the process. The whole procedure has been financed by Turespaña and conducted by Europarc-España, with specialised training and personalised support for each company provided by the technical staff of the consultants Ecotono, and by a ECST representative in the protected area in question. To be awarded the ECST all these companies have had to carry out over 30 basic actions, which are summarised below: • In order to improve the activities and services they offer and increase their cooperation with the natural park, businesses have had — amongst other task — to improve their knowledge of their market and of the area they work in (client lists and questionnaires), provide training for their employees, offer guests informative material about the protected area (whose usefulness guests then evaluate) and promote the values of the territory in a responsible fashion. Businesses work in harmony with other tourist providers since all the companies involved in the process also form part of the Permanent Forum for Sustainable Tourism of the protected area in question. • To improve their environmental performance companies have had to adopt water- and energy-saving policies, monitor consumption and follow a series of protocols designed to detect and solve malfunctions in their installations and facilities. Moreover, companies have produced their own informative material aimed at ensuring that both employees and clients participate in the environmental management of the company’s facilities. To reduce water consumption, appropriate water recycling methods are employed, natural or organic cleaning products are used, and neither employees nor clients may tip waste oil into the sewage system. • To help preserve the local heritage and support local businesses, companies buy local products, use local service suppliers and provide guests with information as to how they too can support local shops, crafts and industries. As a way of influencing clients’ activities, companies have to be able to provide information on public transport and to have established a series of environmental regulations for visitors. Companies that offer active tourism have had to adapt the design of their products so as to rigorously respect the regulations of the protected areas in which they work, and to take into account the limitations and fragility of the places in which their activities are performed. All the companies awarded the ECST are presented with a plaque that they can place on the outside of their establishment, and a Collaboration Certificate detailing the company’s commitments, which can be exhibited inside for visitors to read. INTRODUCTION
7
Being awarded the ECST is advantageous for businesses, as well as for both the managers of protected areas and local tourist authorities. For travellers and tour operators, the ECST is a guarantee of sustainability, and a singular and novel type of tourism. • Ecotourism is performed in the marvellous setting of protected natural areas that are home to the best-preserved wildlife and landscapes in the continent, boasting sights that are unique to Europe and even the world. • The managers of these protected areas are committed to sustainable tourism. • The tourist service providers in these areas are also committed to sustainability, and the agreements they have signed are displayed publicly in their establishments. • Park managers and companies work together to design proposals aimed at providing travellers with a chance to visit some of the region’s most genuine natural and cultural values. Amongst the 91 accredited businesses included in this guide, there are 51 accommodation providers (hotels, independent selfcatering establishments, camp-sites, spas, etc.) and 40 outdoor-activity providers, of which 8 also run some of the public facilities in protected areas. Together, they have accumulated 70 different awards and certificates for their environmental management systems and quality labels and brands, which guarantee that their products and services are performed in the protected area (see list). The Charter acts as an umbrella under which all these systems operate, and its main role is to optimise the potential benefits for both the companies and managers of the protected areas. • ISO 9001: 14 • ISO 14001: 13 • Andalusia Natural Park Brand (Andalusian Autonomous Government): 23 • Doñana 21 Brand (Foundation Doñana 21): 5 • Environmental Quality Label (Catalan Autonomous Govern.): 1 • Sustainable Management Code (Foundation Garrotxa Líder): 3 • ‘Q’ Quality Tourism Label (Institute for Spanish Tourist Quality): 12 • European Ecological Label: 1 Moreover, many companies are also park information points, with an accreditation awarded by the park authorities (part of the Action Plan in some parks) to the companies that have trained staff to provide information on the values and activities of the park. Each of these companies is provided with a display facility for the printed information they hand out. Structure of the guide This guide is the result of a collective process and the fruit of a collaboration between numerous professionals — from the park staff 8
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
The ‘C’ used as a logo on the plaque identifying the companies working with the ECST also stands for the triple ‘C’ of ‘Committed to Collaborating with the Charter’.
who have helped companies to improve their sustainability, to the writers and photographers who have tried to reflect in their work the singularity of each company. For each of the natural areas described, the guide first includes a description of its main natural and cultural values, followed by a complete data sheet with information on the main public facilities in the park in question (visitor and interpretation centres, footpaths, guided visits, botanical gardens, picnic sites, etc.). Given the possibility that opening times may change, travellers are recommended to check times on the internet or to telephone before visiting. This information is then complemented by a brief description of some of the other public facilities present in the vicinity of the protected area. Essentially, this guide aims to satisfy a travelling ecotourist’s need for information and interpretation, but will also be useful to other visitors to these protected areas. After the site description, there is a page devoted to each of the companies working in the protected area in question that have been awarded the ECST. Here, the company’s main characteristics are described, and details are given on its sustainable activities, with special emphasis placed on what each company can offer visitors to the protected area. Finally, all practical details relevant to the company are provided. The company data sheets are arranged in alphabetical order of the place in which they are based. For accommodation providers, the
type of accommodation on offer according to the classifications used by the relevant autonomous community is provided. To avoid a tediously long complete list of prices, the price of a double room in high season is given (VAT included). It was not possible to include the prices charged by activity companies since these vary greatly in terms of the type of activity, its duration, group size and the options selected. Languages spoken other than Spanish are given.
An ever-popular initiative Currently, 28 Spanish protected natural areas have been awarded the ECST, in the autonomous communities of Andalusia, Asturias, Canary Islands, Castilla y León, Castilla-La Mancha, Catalonia and Galicia. Support from Turespaña will enable the number of protected areas and companies committed to sustainable tourism to continue increasing in the years to come.
Autonomous community
Year ECST awarded/ renewed
La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park
Catalonia
2001 / 2006
Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks
Andalusia
2004 / 2009
Los Alcornocales Natural Park
Andalusia
2004
Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche Natural Park
Andalusia
2004
Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park
Andalusia
2004
Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park
Andalusia
2004
Doñana Natural Space
Andalusia
2006
Somiedo Natural Park
Asturias
2007
Delta de l’Ebre Natural Park
Catalonia
2007
Sierra Norte de Sevilla Natural Park
Andalusia
2007
Sierra de Las Nieves Natural Park
Andalusia
2007
Cardeña y Montoro Natural Park
Andalusia
2007
Sierra María-Los Vélez Natural Park
Andalusia
2007
Sierra Mágina Natural Park
Andalusia
2007
La Breña and Marismas del Barbate Natural Park
Andalusia
2007
Galicia
2008
Las Batuecas-Sierra de Francia Natural Park
Castilla y León
2008
Garajonay National Park
Canary Islands
2008
Sierras Subbéticas Natural Park
Andalusia
2008
Strait of Gibraltar Natural Park
Andalusia
2008
Cabo de Gata-Níjar Natural Park
Andalusia
2008
Sierra de Gredos Regional Park
Castilla y León
2009
Valle de Iruelas Natural Reserve
Castilla y León
2009
Hoces del Río Riaza Natural Park
Castilla y León
2009
Protected natural areas awarded the ECST
Serra do Xurés-Baixa Limia Natural Park
Ojo Guareña Natural Monument
Castilla y León
2009
Alto Tajo Natural Park
Castilla-La Mancha
2009
Cabañeros National Park
Castilla-La Mancha
2009
Andalusia
2009
Sierra de Andújar Natural Park
For more information visit the following web pages: www.spain.info / www.european-charter.org / www.europarc-es.org INTRODUCTION
9
Aerial view of the volcano of Santa Margarida.
LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK A landscape sculpted by volcanoes Situated between the Pyrenees and the Mediterranean, the Catalan region of La Garrotxa (Girona) is an area of mid-altitude mountains whose main singularity lies in its volcanic landscape, the most extensive and best preserved in the whole of the Iberian Peninsula. This region, though, is far from being the inhospitable land that many associate with volcanic landscapes, for visitors will find that in La Garrotxa volcanic cones and lava flows blend into the uplands carpeted by a mixture of forest types. Despite the centuries of human occupation that have left their mark here, this welcoming landscape still harbours numerous nooks and crannies and medieval villages that contrast delightfully with dynamic Olot, the region’s small but modern capital town. All in all, La Garrotxa is a rural land of gentle natural contrasts that bids a warm welcome to visitors from near and afar alike.
ccording to the dictionary, the literal meaning of the word garrotxa is ‘a rough and rugged land’. Yet, this description is misleading and is only really applicable to the northern part of La Garrotxa (known as the Alta Garrotxa), for most of the region — including the Natural Park — is characterised by mountains ranging from 200 to 1,500 m, whose gentle slopes are covered in vast humid forests. The great variety in this region’s verdant vegetation is one of the things that visitors first remark upon, above all when they come across the Mediterranean Holm Oak and Beech forests standing all but side-by-side, just 50 km as the crow flies from the Mediterranean. The Natural Park boasts a very peculiar microclimate, the result of its situation midway between the high Pyrenees and the warm Mediterranean Sea, and its barrier of volcanic cones block the warm winds coming in off this warm sea, which has given rise to spectacular contrasts in the landscape and ever-varying mixture of habitats. The south-facing slopes are home to typical Mediterranean ecosystems, with Holm Oak forests with Rosemary- and thymescented scrub, whilst on the north faces of the very same mountains a mixture of Beech, deciduous oak and Sweet Chestnut forests — more typical of central Europe — predominate. All in all, this is a landscape where valleys and mountains blur into a single mosaic of forests, pastures, fields and small villages still blessed with age-old rural charm.
A
A landscape moulded by volcanoes There can be no doubt that volcanoes have the power to create, destroy and profoundly alter a landscape. This is the case of the vol-
canic zone in the centre of La Garrotxa, where volcanic eruptions have occurred periodically for the last 700,000 years, although these volcanic episodes have been interspersed with long periods of inactivity. The most recent eruption that created the volcano Croscat dates back some 11,500 years, and built the 160 m high volcanic cone that today is both the tallest and youngest volcano in the Iberian Peninsula. The underlying cause of the volcanic activity here are the faults meeting in La Garrotxa that allow lava to erupt with a certain degree of regularity (on a geological time-scale). Within this comparatively small region, around 40 volcanic cones have been identified. All are relatively small and covered in thick vegetation, although this does not hinder an appreciation of the different types of volcanic structures present in the region: Strombolian cones with horseshoeshaped lateral craters (Croscat and Rocanegra), cones crowned by perfectly symmetrical craters (Montsacopa) and freatomagmatic volcanoes, whose broad but low craters are the result of powerful explosions occurring when magma comes into contact with groundwater (Santa Margarida) Examples of volcanic material All the material expelled by volcanoes has the same essential chemical composition, although its forms and textures vary a great deal: particles range in size from pieces of ash measuring just a couple of millimetres across to volcanic ‘bombs’ of up to a metre, although most in truth are only a few centimetres across. Nevertheless, by far the most abundant material found on the surface is the lapilli, locally known as greda, which consists of small light, highly porous particles LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
11
Bas. Another interesting case is where a river has eroded away the edge of one of these lava flows and exposed tall cliffs, as at El Boscarró in Sant Joan les Fonts or at Castellfollit de la Roca, where the basaltic cliffs completely surround one of the most spectacularly situated villages in the whole of Catalonia.
that measure on average 1-2 cm in diameter. Collectively, ash, lapilli and bombs are referred to as pyroclasts, which can be thought of as the solidified ‘splashes’ of lava that created the volcanic cones as they fell to ground around their eruption centres. The best way to study these different types of pyroclastic material is to visit the former quarry in the volcano Croscat, which, whilst it was operating and extracting the volcanic material, ate out an impressive bite from the volcano that, thanks to the restoration carried out by the Natural Park, visitors can now enter. The volcanoes of La Garrotxa also expelled masses of molten magma that formed extensive lava flows and travelled for great distances — in some cases up to 4 km — over the local landscape. They had a great impact on today’s landscape and dammed rivers, thereby creating large lakes upstream, and filled in valley bottoms; today these areas contain fertile alluvial soils, as in the case of the Vall d’en
Beech and Holm Oak forests side-by-side Despite the fact that the most abundant woodland in La Garrotxa is the Mediterranean Holm Oak forests, it is without doubt the beechwoods that attract the majority of visitors; the most famous is the Fageda d’en Jordà, whose mysterious atmosphere was immortalised by the poet Joan Maragall as a “liberating prison” that captivates walkers with its “silence and verdure”. Situated on the lava flow emitted by the volcano Croscat, this unique beech forest is characterised by a series of large hummocks (known locally as tussols) that originated when the lava slid over and evaporated the standing water in a marshy area, thereby creating huge bubbles of steam that burst the hardening outer crust of the lava. This forest lies at an exceptionally low altitude (545 m) and in a valley bottom, an atypical situation for a beechwood in the Iberian Peninsula. The abundance of volcanic rocks and stones and its meagre soils have meant that historically this area was uncultivable and so visitors to the region can enjoy this remarkable forest that has survived to the present day. Nevertheless, the rarest woods in La Garrotxa are the few patches of English or Pedunculate oak (Quercus robur subsp. pedunculata), scarce south of the Pyrenees, that cling on around Olot in places such as La Moixina, La Roureda de Cuní and the Parc Nou Botanical Garden in Olot itself. This oak is at home in cold damp climes and once would have been the dominant tree species in the Olot depression, whose singular microclimate is largely the result of the barrier of volcanoes situated to the south and east that prevent warm damp winds off the Mediterranean reaching Olot. Overall, the number of different soil types, combined with the presence of a va-
The volcano Croscat.
Inside the beech forest of Fageda d’en Jordà.
Garrotxa flora and fauna. (Left, top) Hepatica (Anemone hepatica). (Left, bottom) Rosalia alpina, a protected beetle found in beechwoods. (Centre) Black Woodpecker. (Right, top) Woodcock Orchid (Ophrys scolopax). (Right, bottom) Hawfinch.
riety of natural habitats, ensure that there is an exceptional variety of plant species in this region. At the beginning of spring, before the trees begin to leaf, flowers such as Rue-leaved Isopyrum (Isopyrum thalictroides), a lungwort Pulmonaria affinis and Common Solomon’s Seal (Polygonatum multiflorum), typical plants in the humid forests of central Europe, decorate the soils of these oak woods, whilst in the beechwoods appear Seven-leaflet Bittercress (Cardamine heptaphylla), Yellow Anemone (Anemone ranunculoides) and Pyrenean Squill (Scilla lilio-hyacinthus). Outside the forests, in spring the pastures are dotted with colourful orchids that include species such as White Helleborine (Cephalanthera damasonium), Purple Limodore (Limodorum abortivum), Fly (Ophrys insectifera) and Monkey (O. simia) orchids, and Lesser Butterfly Orchid. Rivers such as the Fluvià and Brugent are lined with well preserved fluvial woodland composed of poplars, Alders and Hazels, which can be admired around the town of Sant Feliu de Pallerols and at El Molí del Collell and El Tussols-Basil near Olot. The region’s Holm Oak forests were once severely affected by the demand for wood to make charcoal, but since this traditional activity has disappeared the forests have recovered and today in some mid-altitude areas form a dense impenetrable mass that walkers have learnt to avoid.
In cooler areas, stands of Sweet Chestnuts mix in with other deciduous trees such as Downy Oak, Large-leaved Ash, Large-leaved Lime and various species of maple, whose wonderful autumn colours contrast with the permanent dark hues of the Holm Oaks. Northern and Mediterranean fauna La Garrotxa is a fairly humanised region and as such is not home to a wide array of large mammals, but, as a transition zone between northern and Mediterranean environments it can boast, nevertheless, a rich variety of invertebrate and vertebrate species. Two of the most interesting local ‘specialities’ are the Map Butterfly Araschnia levana, a butterfly first recorded in the Iberian Peninsula from Olot and the Hawfinch, which in La Garrotxa has one of its most important populations in the whole of Spain. In recent years rural-urban drift has increased and forests have advanced, leading to changes in faunal communities. For example, the Wild Boar is more abundant than ever, the Roe Deer has established itself well after being reintroduced, woodpecker populations including the scarce Black Woodpecker are strengthening, forest raptors such as the Goshawk and Honey Buzzard are doing well and invertebrates such as the beautiful beetle Rosalia alpina are sure to benefit from the increase in availability of dead wood. LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
13
Limestone gorges covered in Holm Oaks and scrub, with the peak of Bassegoda (1,375 m) in the background.
However, the increase in forest cover also implies a loss of valuable open spaces, for the most part abandoned pastures and croplands, that are a repository of much of the region’s biodiversity. As woods and scrub invade the open grasslands, invertebrate communities harbouring scarce butterflies such as Provence Hairstreak (Tomares ballus) and Green-underside (Glaucopsyche alexis), Large (Maculinea arion) and Damon (Polyommatus damon) blues come under threat. Likewise, the Red-backed Shrike and Woodlark, two birds in decline in Europe, as well as the Cirl Bunting and numerous warblers, will also be affected by the increase in the forest cover, although for the moment these species are still relatively abundant in the transition zones between open spaces and woodland. Today a great variety of habitats still coexist in La Garrotxa and woodland, pastures and scrub form a harmonious mosaic that is home to important reptile populations — for example, the abundant Green Lizard and smooth and Montpellier snakes — that are also prey items for the Short-toed Eagle. On cliffs, Peregrine Falcons and a few pairs of Golden Eagles breed alongside Red-billed Choughs and Alpine Swifts, and sightings of Griffon and Egyptian Vultures and Lammergeiers are becoming ever more frequent, although as yet none of these scavengers breeds in the area. Amphibians have decreased in recent years, although in the headwaters of a number of streams in the area there are interesting populations of the Pyrenean Brook Newt, a species which in the Natural Park reaches one of its most southerly points in its distribution. 14
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
A land of history: from the Roman road to the small-scale home industrial production La Garrotxa has been populated since antiquity and was traversed by the Romans along a road stretching from the coast and over the Pyrenees whose original paved surface can be still walked today in the Vall de Bianya. The local territorial population model was consolidated in the ninth century, the period in which most of the churches and main settlements were first constructed. Today, the Romanesque is alive and well in the churches of Sant Pere and Sant Vicenç in Besalú and Saint Sepulcre de Palera in Beuda, and in the beautiful monastery of Sant Joan les Fonts, as well as in the many small rural chapels scattered around the whole region. Besalú, once the capital of its own countdom, is a magnificent medieval village, famous for its bridge and call (Jewish quarter), whose highlight is the miqvéh, a ritual purification bath dating from the thirteenth century — one of the very few that still exist in Europe — that has been preserved intact to this day. Just as interesting is the village of Santa Pau, with its well-preserved medieval streets, baronial castle, gothic church and defence walls, as well as many houses with family shields carved on their lintels. In the fifteenth century the Vall d’Hostoles was the scene of a series of peasant revolts known as the remences led by a certain Francesc de Verntallat, which concluded with the abolition of the feudal laws enshrined in the infamous legal code of the malos usos. Visitors to the Natural Park can follow the Remença Route through Sant Feliu de Pallerols and the villages of the Vall d’en Bas and imagine for themselves the events of this fascinating historical episode. Olot is the local capital and was the scene in the eighteenth century of early industrial development based on printed textiles. The entrepreneurial spirit of local people led to the opening of many other local industries, of which the most original was the manufacture of religious images. In the Museu dels Sants in Olot visitors can see for themselves how these hand-painted images are produced by El Arte Cristiano, the company that exports these ‘saints’ throughout most of the world. Art Nouveau also left its mark on the city of Olot in the form of outstanding buildings such as the houses of Solà Morales and Gaietà Vila in Paseo de Blay. The urban lay-out of the city is completed by the Malagrida garden quarter, with its noble houses built by local industrialists and rich immigrants returning from the Indies. One such house, La Torre Castanys, surrounded by beautiful gardens that are today a botanical garden, is home to the Museo dels Volcans, one of the Natural Park’s information points and also its administrative centre. In the very centre of Olot stands the volcano Montsacopa from whose summit, perhaps the most interesting vantage point in the region, a 360° panorama of the city and surrounding landscape can be enjoyed.
The Alta Garrotxa, a wild and lonely land La Garrotxa is not just a land of volcanoes, for its northern third consists of an area of rugged mountains, famous for its narrow inaccessible valleys whose rivers have fashioned deep gorges and carved numerous caves out of the pale limestone rocks. This remote and unforgiving area, whose landscape is so unsuitable for agriculture, has gradually been deserted by its inhabitants and has become much loved by walkers, who come to the area to wonder at its cliffs and gorges, frequented by numerous raptors, the Pont de Llierca, a graceful medieval bridge near Sadernes, and the many isolated Romanesque churches such as that of Santa Bàrbara de Pruneres. This grandiose and rugged landscape has always provided excellent refuge for outlaws, known locally as trabucaires, and the smugglers who in past centuries passed through this difficult terrain at will; it was also the scene of many a battle during the bloody nineteenth century Carline Wars. Today, the Alta Garrotxa is part of the Catalan network of Areas of Natural Interest and is managed by a consortium that depends on the Catalan Ministry of the Environment and Housing. Management in the Natural Park La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park occupies the central part of this region and provides protection for the best conserved volcanic zone in the Iberian Peninsula and, together with the Consortium of the Alta Garrotxa, is responsible for the preservation of the natural and scenic values of La Garrotxa. The diversity and riches of the volcanic zone demand meticulous and detailed management — micro-management — that is adapted to the special needs of every last corner of the protected area. A good example of this is the restoration of the volcano Croscat, whose cone was partially destroyed by the quarrying of its volcanic deposits; it was acquired by the Catalan government in 1995 and has been restored to provide access for visitors. The large chunk taken out of one side of the volcano has been left open and today is of great scientific and educational interest as visitors can contemplate the veritable ‘innards’ of this fascinating volcano and discover the secrets of its eruptive processes. Annually, aside from general visitors, around 60,000 school children visit the volcano and it has become one of the most appreciated parts of the whole Natural Park. The Natural Park has also encouraged local traditional building techniques and is active in the restoration of many dry-stone walls and stone huts built out of the local volcanic stone. A good site to study these structures is the Pedra Tosca Park near the town of Les Preses, where old fields and stone walls have been restored, and the traditional cultivation of buckwheat and local varieties of fruit trees is being encouraged. Today this interesting site can be visited along a well-signposted path. From top to bottom: village of Joanetes; Can Vidal, a farm near the Fageda d’en Jordà; Castellfollit de la Roca, village perched on top of a basaltic cliff. LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
15
PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND PUBLIC FACILITIES La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park • Date declared. 3 March 1982 • Surface area. 15,309 ha • Province. Girona • Municipalities. Castellfollit de la Roca, Mieres, Montagut, Olot, Les Planes d’Hostoles, Les Preses, Sant Aniol de Finestres, Sant Feliu de Pallerols, Sant Joan les Fonts, Santa Pau, La Vall de Bianya. Aside from the Natural Park in a strict sense, the ECST will be applied to the whole of the comarca of La Garrotxa, which covers a total of 73,535 ha and includes a second large protected area, the Alta Garrotxa Area of Natural Interest, and additionally the following municipalities: Ridaura, Vall d’en Bas, Tortellà, Sant Jaume de Llierca, Sales de Llierca, Argelaguer, Sant Ferriol, Maià de Montcal, Beuda and Besalú. • ECST accreditation. 2001 • Contact details Casal dels Volcans Avda. de Santa Coloma s/n 17800 Olot (Girona) Tel.: 972 26 60 12 (office) / Tel.: 972 26 81 12 (information) e-mail: pnzvg.dmah@gencat.cat www.mediambient.gencat.net/cat/el_medi/ parcs_de_catalunya/garrotxa www.turismegarrotxa.com VISITOR FACILITIES CASAL DELS VOLCANS INFORMATION CENTRE The starting point of a number of the park’s waymarked itineraries, the information centre shares a building with the Museu dels Volcans — a museum devoted to the volcanic history and natural systems of La Garrotxa — and also has a room housing temporary exhibitions. • Location and contact details. Avda. de Santa Coloma, s/n, Olot (Girona). Tel.: 972 26 81 12
16
• Services. Museu dels Volcans, botanical garden, information about routes and guiding service. Publications on sale, café, toilets, car park. • Opening times. All year round, except 1 and 6 January and 25 and 26 December. MondaySaturday: 10-14 and 16-18. Sundays and public holidays: 10-14. • Accessible for people with reduced mobility CAN SERRA (FAGEDA D’EN JORDÀ) INFORMATION CENTRE Starting point for a number of the park’s marked itineraries. Boards with general information and park maps. • Location and contact details. Olot to Santa Pau road, km 4. Tel.: 972 19 50 74 • Services. Information about waymarked itineraries and guided routes, publications on sale, information panels, toilets, cold-drinks machines, car park, picnic spot. • Opening times. From 6 April to 8 December, Monday-Friday: 10-15; from 10 January to 6 December, weekends and public holidays: 10-15. • Accessible for people with reduced mobility CAN PASSAVENT (VOLCÁN CROSCAT) INFORMATION CENTRE Starting point for a number of the park’s itineraries and a display about the volcano Croscat. • Location and contact details. Located on the flanks of the volcano Croscat. Access on foot or by bicycle only; vehicles must be parked in the car park of Santa Margarida, where there are toilets. This car park is also the starting point of a number of the park’s itineraries, including one that passes by Can Passavent on its way into the volcano Croscat. Tel.: 972 19 50 94 • Services. Information on itineraries and guided routes. Sale of publications. • Opening times. From 1 March to 8 December: 10-15.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
• Accessible for people with reduced mobility. Access in motorised vehicle only for people with reduced mobility, who must previously have obtained written authorisation from one of the other information centres. SANT FELIU DE PALLEROLS INFORMATION CENTRE Located in the former train station of Sant Feliu de Pallerols, this centre is the starting point for a number of the park’s marked itineraries and also a support point for cyclists using the OlotGirona bike lane. Here visitors will find information about the Natural Park, the Ruta Remença (route themed around a local medieval peasant’s revolt), the Natural Park’s network of trails and the Itinerànnia network of footpaths. Also available is an interactive information point. • Location and contact details. Olot road, 43, former train station of Sant Feliu de Pallerols. Tel.: 972 44 44 74 • Services. Information on waymarked routes, sale of publications, toilets and showers, cafe. • Opening times. From 24 April to 24 September, Monday-Saturday: 10-14 and 16-18. From 6 June to 8 December, Sundays and public holidays: 10-14. • Accessible for people with reduced mobility RECREATIONAL FACILITIES VIEwPOINTS • Montsacopa, in Olot (Girona). Accessible for people with reduced mobility in motor vehicles with authorisation obtainable from the information centres. • Xenacs, in Les Preses (Girona). Accessible for people with reduced mobility. FOOTPAThS The Natural Park has a network of 22 waymarked paths totalling around 158 km, of which the following are some of the best for exploring this Natural Park: • Fageda d’en Jordà-Volcano Santa MargaridaVolcano Croscat. This path takes walkers through the famous beech forest of La Fageda d’en Jordà, singular due to its situation on a lava flow and at an unusually low altitude, and into the crater of Volcano Santa Margarida and the former quarry that reveals the insides of volcano Croscat. Length: 10 km. Time: 4 h 30 min. • Olot-Fageda d’en Jordà-Can Xel-Santa Pau (itinerary that can be tackled on foot or by mountain bike). This route gives visitors a
chance to admire the beech forest of La Fageda d’en Jordà, a number of the park’s most interesting volcanoes, the medieval village of Santa Pau and the typical rural landscape of the region. Length: 14.6 km. Time: 3 h 30 min. • Three lava flows itinerary (Boscarró, Molí Fondo and Fontfreda). This itinerary visits the three basaltic lava flows near the town of Sant Joan les Fonts, and also provides a good chance to admire the riparian woodland of the local river. Length: 5.5 km. Time: 1 h 30 min. The whole area can also be visited by following any of paths and trails of the following two important hiking and cycle-path networks: • Vía Verde Olot-Girona. Commonly known as the Ruta del Carrilet, this cycle-path follows the route of the old narrow-gauge railway closed in the mid 1960s that is still fondly remembered by locals as the ‘Carrilet’. In all, 57 km of cyclelane separate Olot and Girona and this route is used by walkers and cyclists alike on its journey along the valleys of the rivers Fluvià, Brugent and Ter. www.viesverdes.org • Itinerànnia. This extensive (700 km) network of waymarked paths and trails criss-crosses the whole of La Garrotxa, connecting all the villages and towns, and places of cultural, natural and scenic interest. It is also linked to the neighbouring regions of El Ripollès and Alt Empordà and between these three comarcas there are over 2,500 km of waymarked paths and trails. www.itinerannia.net GUIDED-vISIT SERvICES DISCOVER LA GARROTXA A very complete programme of guided visits on foot to some of the most interesting parts of La Garrotxa. Most of the visits have been designed with families with children in mind, and some of the local hotels and restaurants have free tickets for those of their clients wishing to take part in these excursions. www.turismegarrotxa.com MORE INFORMATION Turisme Garrotxa. This joint public-private association is dedicated to the development of sustainable tourism in La Garrotxa. It works to promote this region and all the tourist services that are members of this association, and its web-site contains a lot of valuable information about the region. Tel.: 972 27 16 00 www.turismegarrotxa.com
Monars
La Garrotxa La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park Natural Reserves
Talaixà
Sant Miquel de Pera
Oix
Comanegra
Vall del Bac
S e rra
de M
Sadernes
alfor
at Tortellà
Sant Pere Despuig
Castellfollit de la Roca
Sant Joan les Fonts
L'Hostalnou de Bianya
Sales de Llierca
Beuda
Segueró
Montagut Maià de Montcal
1 Sant Jaume de Llierca
La Canya
Argelaguer
Begudà Sant Ferriol
Riudaura La Pinya
3
Puigpardines Puigsacalm
Collada Joanetes de Bracons
4
El Torn El Sallent
5 6 Volcà de Santa Margarida Santa Pau
Les Preses
Bas
Sant Julià del Mont
El Croscat
Sant Miquel del Corb
B
Batet de la Serra
Boscdetosca
Sant Privat d'en Bas
S e rra
2
OLOT
Besalú
Serra del Corb
Puigsallança
Els Hostalets d'en Bas lance rs
de l L
Mieres
Sant Aniol de Finestres
Falgars d'en Bas
Sant Feliu de Pallerols
7 Sant Esteve de Llémena
Les Planes d'Hostoles
1
Sant Joan les Fonts Tourist Office
2
Olot Tourist Office
3
Casal dels Volcans Information Centre
4
Can Serra Information Centre
5
Can Passavent Information Centre
6
Santa Pau Tourist Office
7
Sant Feliu de Pallerols Information Centre
LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
17
WALKING CATALONIA More than twenty years have passed since Mike Lockwood arrived in Spain to work as an English teacher. He currently lives in Besalú, a beautiful medieval town in La Garrotxa in Catalonia. From here, he started up Walking Catalonia, today synonymous with an excellent range of guided wildlife walks, many of which are within La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park. A vocational self-taught naturalist, Mike has extensive knowledge of the area’s flora and fauna, which allows him to specialise in wildlife guiding. Habitats, landscape and birds, but also lesser-known groups such as flora, butterflies and dragonflies all enter into Walking Catalonia’s guided walks. Some of his preferred destinations are the Sierra del Corb within the Natural Park and the mountains of the Alta Garrotxa, which boast floral and faunal communities of particular interest. Being a native English speaker means that Mike is a key person for British and other foreign tourists who visit La Garrotxa looking for a quality introduction to
its natural heritage. Indeed, approximately half of all Mike’s clients are from overseas, a particularly high percentage compared to other similar initiatives. Identifying features of the company are its use of public transport — for example, ensuring that clients do not need private vehicles to get to the starting point of the activity — and the priority it gives to travelling on foot during excursions. Mike also participates in several studies and projects, such as those
Visitor services and activities • Wildlife excursions. Orientated towards a deeper knowledge of the flora and fauna, these are custom-made according to clients’ interests. Maximum of 20 clients per guide.
developed by Oxygastra, a Catalan group devoted to the study of dragonflies and damselflies, and the butterfly atlas of La Garrotxa, promoted by the Catalan Institute of Natural History (ICHN). Walking Catalonia is also highly involved in Itinerànnia, the extensive network of paths created in the areas of El Ripollès, La Garrotxa and L’Alt Empordà in Catalonia, which has so far signposted some 2,500 km of trails.
Material/equipment provided Documentation, maps and leaflets Languages Catalan, English and French Open All year round Official endorsements Natural Park Accredited Guides Natural Park Collaborative Body
• Expert guide. In all wildlife types, but with special interest in butterflies, dragonflies and wild flowers. In addition to La Garrotxa, Walking Catalonia also works in France, Andalusia, Extremadura, the Pyrenees and the Ebro Valley. 18
• Environmental education. Activities for schools, with an emphasis on close but respectful encounters with the flora, fauna and habitats. • Training. Teaches the natural systems module in the guide-training programme of La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park. • Consultancy. Provides information, documentation and recommendations to visitors planning to visit the area.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Contact details Mike Lockwood C/ La Devesa 3, 1º 17850 Besalú (Girona) Tel.: 972 59 03 27 / 661 95 69 39 mike@walkingcatalonia.net www.walkingcatalonia.net
CAN PIQUÉ As it leaves the small villages of theVall d’en Bas behind and begins to snake its way uphill across the wooded slopes of the mountains, the road to Can Piqué runs through beautiful rural landscapes dominated by the unmistakable silhouette of Puigsacalm, identifiable from afar as one of the most prominent local landmarks and an excellent reference point for visitors. Can Piqué is a characteristic rural house constructed in the eighteenth-century, totally isolated in natural surroundings and immersed in the dense deciduous forests of the Puigsacalm-Bellmunt Area of Natural Interest. The isolation and harsh working conditions endured in this rural environment, until even just a few decades ago, are readily imaginable by visitors as they approach; today however, given all the comforts available, no one will deny the sheer pleasure of staying at Can Piqué at any time of the year, in close contact with nature and a perfect site for the contemplation of its leafy surroundings. The interior has been specifically designed to offer visitors maximum comfort and pleasure during Accommodation type Independent self-catering accommodation Visitor services and activities • Information is provided about the area’s active tourism activities (hiking, horse riding, hot-air balloon trips, guided routes on donkeys, guided 4WD excursions, etc.). • Walking routes leading directly from the accommodation. • Pets are welcome.
their stays, particularly in the communal areas. Guests may indulge in animated conversations in front of the fire on winter evenings or in summer simply relax or read in the gardens, or have a quick dip in the pool to escape the heat. Walks in the surroundings of Can Piqué allow clients to visit a natural spring (La Font de Piqué), a waterfall (El Salt de Roure), the Pla de la Grevolosa beech wood or even climb Puigsacalm, the
Location Joanetes (Girona) Road from Joanetes to Coll de Bracons (no number). (From Joanetes, follow the Coll de Bracons road for about 5 km) Coordinates: 42º 6’ 56.94” N, 2º 23’ 16.65” E
highest peak in the local area. Currently Can Piqué collaborates with the Natural Park in monitoring the native White-clawed Crayfish population, as part of a reintroduction project, and other species on the estate. In addition, and to reinforce its commitment to the conservation of the surroundings, Can Piqué is reforesting by planting native tree species on its property.
• Meeting/dining room with open fire • Fully equipped kitchen (fridge, washing machine, dish-washer, oven, microwave, etc.)
Languages Catalan, English and French Open All year round
Capacity 4 rooms, sleeping 10 Facilities • Swimming pool • Car park • Gardens • Barbeques
Prices Cost varies depending on the number of clients and nights, but approximately between 900 and 1,500 € per week for the entire complex. Official endorsements Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 972 26 50 12 / 679 41 36 80 canpique@hotmail.com www.canpique.org LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
19
FONDA BARRIS The dictionary defines fonda as an establishment providing accommodation and food, and adds that it derives from the Greek term pandokos, meaning ‘hospitable’. The Fonda Barris fits this definition exactly, being a simple and friendly guesthouse with a restaurant offering fixed menus during the week and a wider variety of dishes at weekends. This is a family-run business, started in 1949 and currently run by the second generation of owners. Located in Joanetes, a tiny village in the Vall d’en Bas, the arrival of the first ever tourists there is still remembered in perfect detail, especially since they stayed in Fonda Barris. While all the equipment and furnishing have been restored and changed over time, the spirit of the family-run service that characterises this establishment still predominates; the clientele and the Barris family continue to share the spaces, conversations and, if so desired, even the work in the vegetable garden. The restaurant, popular amongst locals at weekends, offers typical local dishes such as patates d’Olot
(meat-filled potato slices), duck with pears and pig’s trotters with turnips. This traditional cuisine is complemented with a commitment to culinary innovation using local produce and promoted by the Cuina Volcànica group, to which Fonda Barris belongs. Regarding the accommodation, mention should be made of the recently created communal living room, where visitors can spend hours just watching the fire, the television or thumbing through the books. Rooms are characterised by their functionality and the absence of details that would interfere with Fonda Barris’ objectives: simplicity, quality and human warmth. If it were not this way, why would part of the Fonda’s clientele have returned here every summer for more than twenty years?! Fonda Barris is well placed to explore the Vall d’en Bas or enter into the Puigsacalm-Bellmunt Area of Natural Interest, following the Itinerànnia footpath
network. The firm commitment shown by the family to locally produced goods and its promotion of the rural environment is reflected, among other things, by the breakfast jams which are made on-site and its commitment to the ECST programme aimed at developing various activities such as a classroom-garden to teach about the crops and local seeds, developed in conjunction with the help of La Garrotxa Seed Bank.
Accommodation type One-star accommodation
• Restaurant, café and bar service • Good access to dining room for people with limited mobility • Outdoor car park
visitor services and activities • Starting point for many cultural, leisure and sporting activities.
Open All year round Prices Bed and breakfast: 37 €/night Half-board: 55 € Full-board: 67.50 € • Establishment associated with the Itinerànnia footpath network. • Free tickets for clients for the visits and excursions of the Discover La Garrotxa programme. • Traditional cooking. The restaurant is a member of the Grup Cuina Volcànica. • Access to the signposted cycle routes of the Vía Verde del Carrilet. • Options of access other activities, such as horse riding and hot-air balloon trips. • Picnics can be provided. Languages Catalan, English and French
20
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Location Joanetes (Girona) Torelló road s/n. Coordinates: 42º 7’ 14.88” N, 2º 25’ 31.70” E Capacity • 8 rooms, sleeping 16 • 50-cover restaurant during the week and 135 covers at weekends Facilities • Communal room with open fire • TV • Computer and Wi-Fi internet access • Library
Official endorsements Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 972 69 00 64 info@fondabarris.com www.fondabarris.com
CAN MORERA Lying adjacent to the old railway line between Olot and Girona — now transformed into a Vía Verde (green route) — Can Morera is a typical old country house, restored in 2008, and combines accommodation, restaurant and a shop selling agricultural goods produced by businesses run by the same family. During its reformation, great efforts were made to integrate the area’s traditional architecture with modern needs for functionality and comfort. For example, black basalt rocks, characteristic of this volcanic area, form part of the restaurant walls, while in the apartments, new materials have been chosen to merge with the old through careful colour selection. All the apartments are fully equipped and simply decorated, thereby producing a calm atmosphere inviting visitors to relax. Some of the apartments have balconies, providing wonderful panoramic views of the surrounding area, including the distant outline of the Pyrenees to the north-west and the volcanic cones much closer at hand. And to help the visitor learn more about the Accommodation type Apartments
area, the rooms are named after specific geographic features visible from the house: Malloll, Puigsacalm, Els Llancers, El Collfred, Falgars, Xenacs and Puig Rodó. The establishment is an excellent base from which to organise trips into the Natural Park, to the medieval villages of Vall d’en Bas, the Xenacs view-
Languages Catalan and French
point, the Pedra Tosca park or indeed to any of the numerous points of interest in the region. As a consequence of the accreditation given to Can Morera by the ECST, the company will soon be taking part in promotion of the Agrovolcània brand, developed by the association of the park’s local producers.
Capacity • 8 apartments, sleeping 39 • 120-cover restaurant
Location La Vall d’en Bas (Girona) Sta. Coloma road, 10 (although Can Morera is in the municipality of Vall d’en Bas, it is actually situated on the edge of the village of Les Preses on the road that separates this municipality from that of the Vall d’en Bas) Coordinates: 42º 8’ 36.53” N, 2º 27’ 28.49” E Open All year round visitor services and activities • Free tickets for clients for the visits and excursions of the Discover La Garrotxa programme. • Information about the area’s activities and routes, including easy access to the Vía Verde del Carrilet and the Itinerànnia walking trail network. • Traditional cooking using local products and including a children’s menu. • Sale of agricultural products from the same company (separate from the apartments).
Facilities • Restaurant, with bar area and two private lounges • Conference room for displays, courses, talks, etc. • TV in all apartments • Communal washing machine/dryer • Private exterior car park • Children’s playground • Wi-Fi internet connection in rooms and communal areas
Prices Apartment (three types): 80 €/night, 100 €/night, 120 €/night Official endorsements • Natural Park Information Point • Sustainable Management Code (awarded by Fundació Garrotxa Líder) Contact details Tel.: 972 69 34 08 canmorera@morera.net www.can-morera.com
LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
21
EDUC’ART Educ’art clearly stands apart from other tourist providers in La Garrotxa area through its commitment to the use of cultural heritage as a tourism and teaching resource. Its main strength is its programme of guided excursions for schools and independent groups that provide visitors with detailed knowledge of the historic monuments found in the villages of La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park and the surrounding area. This is the case, for example, of the surprising medieval town of Besalú, with its Miqvé, the only Jewish baths in Spain, and the numerous Romanesque churches in La Vall de Bianya. Logically, Educ’art also works a lot in its home town of Olot, the local capital, and provides visitor services to its rich array of monuments, museums, exhibition halls and buildings of great beauty. Educ’art’s work complements that of the other operators in the area, which are more orientated tovisitor services and activities • Cultural visits. Educ’art is the only operator working exclusively in the field of cultural, historic and artistic heritage in Olot and La Garrotxa area. • Cultural education. Teaching opportunities using various different types of resources have been adapted to offer to schools via guided visits and other activities.
wards the volcanoes and their wildlife. Educ’art has been operating in this field since 1997, when its founders, a group of experts in education management, decided to create a small company as a means of developing their teaching activities. From its office in Olot, Educ’art employs an active team of teachers and specialists whose work on its cultural programme allows the company to participate in many of the projects promoted by the local administration that have recently been set in motion. For example, Educ’art works in Discover La Garrotxa, an eclectic series of guided visits for tourists, Living among Volcanoes, aimed specifically at local organisations, and Meetings among Volcanoes, designed to provide visitors to congresses and meetings organized by companies with leisure activities. Educ’art also works extensively in other parts of Girona Province, organising and running the educational services and educational visits to the Dalí
Theatre-Museum in Figueres, the Museum of Cinema in Girona, and the Museum of Exile in La Jonquera.
• Training. Educ’art teaches the cultural content for La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park accredited guide-training courses.
Languages Catalan, English and French Open All year round • Research. As a specialist in the area’s art and culture, Educ’art is able to take on highly specialised projects such as an inventory of the historical heritage of La Garrotxa, commissioned by the La Garrotxa Area Council. • Specialist guides. These offer in-depth knowledge of the historical and artistic heritage of Girona Province and a wealth of experience in the local museums’ cultural services. 22
Material/equipment provided Information sheets and other teaching resources for schools, and printed information for adults
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Official endorsements • Natural Park Collaborative Body • Natural Park Accredited Guides Contact details C/ Antoni Llopis 6, 1º, 5ª 17800 Olot (Girona) Tel.: 616 13 24 33 educart@educart.biz www.educart.biz
ESCOLA DE NATURA LA GARROTXA One of the most ambitious ideas on offer in La Garrotxa is the programme Discover La Garrotxa, in which local administrations and the La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park work in collaboration with a number of tourist companies. The scale of this initiative is clear given the two-hundred-plus annual visits and weekend guided excursions, as well as daily activities in summer, that are carried out every year. The design and execution of the section of this programme centred on local wildlife is undertaken by a small group of biologists from Girona Province, who at the end of the 1990s decided to form the Escola de Natura La Garrotxa. Shortly afterwards they were asked to participate in Discover La Garrotxa, which enabled them to consolidate their activity as a company. The programme covers the great majority of the principal wildlife attractions of the Natural Park. A good example of this is the so-called Ruta dels Deu visitor services and activities • Environmental education. Guided excursions for schools and other leisure activities for children. Both day visits and longer stays in rural accommodation. • Naturalist excursions. Visits to interesting sites and along trails in La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park. A large part of this activity is channelled through the Discover La Garrotxa programme.
Volcans (Ten Volcanoes Route), which visits an important selection of volcanic cones and lava flows, as well as woodlands and wetlands associated with the area’s singular geology. Another of the Escola de Natura’s main lines of work is guiding the schools which visit the area every
• Specialist guides. Guides are specialised in the interpretation of the environment and, above all, in geology (vulcanology), ecosystems and landscapes.
year: they have been working hard in environmental education for the last ten years, and share the spirit and objectives with the company Guaita, with whom they maintain very close links. The Escola de Natura offers primary and secondary school children day visits, longer stays in hamlets, plus workshops and other activities. The subject matter includes the formation of the local volcanoes, the different types of volcanic activity, the materials the volcanoes are made out of, how the landscape was changed by volcanic action, and the profound influence that man has had on the landscape. The volcano Croscat, the Fageda d’en Jordà (beech wood) and the Moixina oak woods are some of the principal sites the Escola de Natura visits as part of its work with children and teenagers. The emblematic volcano Montsacopa with its circular crater is also of great interest and has the peculiarity that it is situated completely within Olot town centre.
• Promotion of local heritage. Selection and management of footpaths in El Ripollès, La Garrotxa and L’Alt Empordà in Catalonia, part of project Itinerànnia.
Open All year round Official endorsements Natural Park Collaborative Body Natural Park Accredited Guides • Training. The Escola de Natura participates in the elaboration and teaching of natural systems. • Research. Collaboration in diverse environmental projects such as the weekly butterfly census that are part of the Catalan Butterfly Monitoring Scheme.
Material/equipment provided Documentation, work dossier and various materials, above all for use with children Languages Catalan, English and French
Contact details C/ Antoni Llopis 6, 1º, 5ª 17800 Olot (Girona) Tel.: 972 26 46 15 / 669 82 63 22 info@escoladenatura.org www.escoladenatura.org
LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
23
MAS MASNOU A small window allowing a ray of light to illuminate the stairs, a lamp half-hidden in a corner, the traditional blue of the walls, a chest of drawers perhaps containing old-fashioned table linen, a flowerpot on a window-sill ... just some of the typical details that delight visitors at every step in Mas Masnou, a completely restored farmhouse in the peaceful location of Vall del Corb. Mas Masnou is remarkable for its rustic ambience and the simplicity of its apartments, as well as for the remarkable peace of its surroundings and the friendliness with which Joana receives her visitors; simplicity and calm appear effortlessly in this establishment, as if they were part of its very fabric. The apartments are both intimate and welcoming, the thick stone walls always guarantee a pleasant temperature and one can also relax in front of the fire in the living/dining room. Outside, you can relax in the garden while contemplating the blend of mod-
ern and traditional architecture used during the restoration of this former barn. For the more intrepid, various possibilities exist for exploring the dense woodlands and their wildlife in the immediate surroundings.
Other attractions include the rural landscapes, where through their daily work local people continue to maintain the mosaic of forest, fields and pastures that characterises the Vall del Corb. Mas Masnou also lies close to a number of other features that characterise the Natural Park, namely a landscape heavily influenced by man (but yet still harmonious), perfectly circular volcanic craters and leafy forests. It is more than likely that these idyllic surroundings and the comfort of Mas Masnou will lead guests to change their busy programme of visits and instead simply stay within the confines of the building and its grounds! Given its location in a densely forested area, the owner has entered into a commitment to improve the surrounding woodland so that visitors can enjoy easily walked paths, including for people with mobility problems and for families with child buggies. Plans are also afoot to restore the estate’s dry stone walls.
Accommodation type Rural self-catering apartment visitor services and activities • Information is provided about the surroundings (natural attractions, architecture, hiking, etc.). • Free tickets for client for the visits and excursions of the Discover La Garrotxa programme. • Sale of free-range eggs and garden vegetables in the summer.
Prices 30 € /person/day Official endorsements Park Information Point Languages Catalan and English Location Les Preses, Olot (Girona) Residencia Masnou del Corb, along the road from Olot to Les Preses towards Sant Miguel del Corb Coordinates: 42º 9’ 7.01” N, 2º 29’ 27.35” E Capacity 4 apartments, sleeping 14
24
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Facilities • Own garden and woodland • Vegetable garden in summer and chicken coop • Swimming pool • Garden with swings and barbeque • Terrace for ground-floor apartments • Fully equipped kitchen • TV and DVD • Wi-Fi internet connection in all apartments Open All year round
Contact details Tel.: 972 69 30 10 / 689 68 18 83 info@masmasnou.com www.masmasnou.com
HOTEL PERLA D’OLOT Lying on the southern access into the busy city of Olot, the capital of La Garrotxa, La Perla is a hotel, aparthotel and restaurant and has provided its clients with carefully cared-for rooms and excellent personal service since the 1970s. The hotel, under continuous improvement and renovation, provides a magnificent base from which to explore Olot and its beautiful surroundings. The comfort found in La Perla’s rooms and apartments is matched by the calm which reigns over its surroundings and ample gardens, where children can play on the slides, swings and other playground equipment. While clearly constituting a family business, La Perla is not small and its extensive buildings offer clients numerous services (accommodation, restaurant, meetings room, terraces, etc.) in the 44 rooms and 18 apartments it has at the moment. In addition to Olot itself, La Perla is ideally positioned for exploring both the Natural Park and the Accommodation type • Two-star hotel • Three-star aparthotel
rest of the region, and a large quantity of information material is available to guests, including welcoming leaflets and information on the attractions of the area, plus good tourist practices. Besides its traditional commitment to sustainable tourism based on the
• Facilities for cycling tourists (locked bicycle park, cleaning and workshop area). • Pets are welcome (aparthotel only). Languages Catalan, English and French Location Olot (Girona) De la Deu road, 9 Coordinates: 42º 10’ 9.40” N, 2º 28’ 36.14” E
quality and range of attractions in the region, through its ECST accreditation La Perla has also committed itself to promoting local culture and has transformed some of its family rooms into thematic rooms that highlight some of the city’s characteristic features.
Facilities • Conference room (for 50 people) • Wi-Fi internet connection • Restaurant • Café • Satellite TV in rooms • Reduced mobility access almost throughout • Private car park • Children’s playground • Close proximity to Olot swimming pool and other municipal sports facilities • Terrace-garden Open All year round
visitor services and activities • The reception acts as Natural Park Information Point. • Information is provided about guided visits and hiking and wildlife routes. • Information is provided on the social and leisure events in Olot and the region. • Free tickets for clients for the visits and excursions of the Discover La Garrotxa programme. • Close proximity to the Itinerànnia footpath network, the Vía Verde, La Moixina (in the Natural Park) and the Museo dels Volcans.
Prices • Double room with breakfast (two room types): 66-89 €/night • Double apartment with breakfast: 83107 €/night Official endorsements • Park Information Point • ‘Q’ quality tourism label Capacity • Hotel: 26 rooms, sleeping 43 • Aparthotel: 18 rooms and 18 apartments, sleeping 72 • 55-cover restaurant
Contact details Tel.: 972 26 23 26 info@laperlahotels.com www.laperlahotels.com LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
25
HOSTAL SANT BERNAT Hostal Sant Bernat is a small hostel located in the heart of Olot, a city well known for its magnificent modernist buildings, thriving cultural scene and numerous parks. A simple place with a homely character, its doors open onto a quiet street which climbs the steep slopes of the Montsacopa volcano. Given its location, it is ideal for exploring the centre of city as well as enjoying excellent views over the hostel’s immediate surroundings in the capital of La Garrotxa. Started in 1970, the hostel’s facilities have been in a process of continuous improvement ever since, highlighting the passion and commitment of its owners, sisters María and Ferranda, to the hotel’s management. Summer is the best time to enjoy the hostel’s modest garden and the fine views from it, while in winter there is nothing quite like relaxing in front of the fire in the dining room, whilst enjoying the tastes of the traditional cooking. Various types of breakfast are offered, from the classic continental breakfast to the typical local breakfast of locally cured meats and fesols (small white beans) from the neighbouring vil-
lage of Santa Pau. María and Ferranda always prefer local produce or buying in bulk so as to minimise the generation of waste. The hostel is also committed to energy saving, and uses solar-panel heating combined with carefully regulated temperature control, plus other good practices that clients will discover for themselves! Another of the commitments to the sustainability of tourism undertaken by Sant Bernat is the creation of walking and cycling itineraries starting at the hostel itself; an
Accommodation type One-star hostel
Facilities • Restaurant and bar service • Public cable and Wi-Fi internet connection • TV in rooms • Garden • Open fire • Good access to communal areas and rooms for people with reduced mobility
visitor services and activities • Half-board restaurant service (breakfast and dinner), with traditional cooking. • Free tickets for clients for the visits and excursions of the Discover La Garrotxa programme.
• Close proximity to the Itinerànnia footpath network and GR-83 and in the centre of Olot. 26
excellent excuse to forget about motorised transport and a good way of getting fit at the same time. This latter proposal is possible thanks to the perfect position of the hostel with easy access to the Itinerànnia footpath network and the GR-83 or ‘Camí del Nord’ (which links Mataró to Canigó), thereby making it an ideal base for all types of walking and cycling activities. And for those who prefer more urban walks, Olot is just a step outside the front door and there is no need to take the car.
• The hostel provides equipment for cycling tourists: a locked bicycle park and cleaning materials. • Pets are welcome.
Open All year round
Languages Catalan, English and French
Prices Bed and breakfast: 60 €/night
Location Olot (Girona) C/Les Feixes, 29-31 Coordinates: 42º 11’10.33”N, 2º 29’32.30”E
Official endorsements Park Information Point
Capacity • 37 rooms, sleeping 67 • 50-cover restaurant
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Contact details Tel.: 972 26 19 19 bernat@turismegarrotxa.com info@hostalsantbernat.com www.hostalsantbernat.com
TOSCA In 1994, five people working in environmental education in La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park set up a multidisciplinary team called Tosca. Their aim was to develop programmes for education, communication and environmental information within this reserve. Today the team consists of ten professionals specialised in environmental education and tourism, and Tosca has become a reference point in La Garrotxa for its experience in various areas related to sustainability. Tosca offers teaching services to schools, social groups and even individuals. Their programmes are characterised by personal contact and all are specifically designed for the clients or centres in question. To a backdrop of volcanoes and a spectacular landscape, Tosca acts as an intermediary between the visitor and the territory. Their guides and monitors do not merely limit themselves to talking about the park; rather, they encourage participants to feel truly involved and, finally, to develop a critical spirit towards the environmental problems affecting society. visitor services and activities • Environmental education. Oriented towards both students and adults. The aim is to improve the interpretive and critical skills of the participants through guided field trips.
Tosca also manages the teaching and information services of the four park information centres: the Casal dels Volcans (in Olot), the old railway station in Sant Feliu de Pallerols, and Can Serra and Can Passavent in Santa Pau. In addition to its principal activities, the Tosca team also promotes and participates in
• Research. Social and environmental studies are undertaken with the objective of improving territorial management. • Conservation and management. As part of its work in maintaining and evaluating local wildlife resources, Tosca participates in a number of projects, including those based on the concept of territorial stewardship.
various activities aimed at studying and conserving the park’s natural heritage. One of the most interesting is Finding Trees with a History (Busquem Arbres amb Història). This initiative aims to involve the local population in finding and documenting all the area’s singular trees.
Open All year round
Material/equipment provided Different materials aimed at helping the interpretation of the local area and user participation.
• Information centre management. Tosca manages the education and information services of La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park, via a concession won in a public tender. • Training. Tosca participates in short training courses, including the training of the park’s future accredited guides, in which it teaches aspects related the company’s fields of specialisation.
Languages Catalan and French
Official endorsements • ‘Q’ quality tourism label • ISO 2000 • Sustainable Management Code (equivalent to the Distintiu de Qualitat Ambiental, but at regional level) • Natural Park Accredited Guides • Natural Park Collaborative Body
Contact details Casal dels Volcans Avda. Santa Coloma s/n 17800 Olot (Girona) Tel.: 972 27 00 86 / 972 26 81 12 info@tosca.cat www.tosca.cat
LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
27
GUAITA When environmental educators Nani Armengou and Beth Cobo started up Guaita, they were well aware of the tourism and educational possibilities offered by La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park. And since they have been working in this protected area their initial expectations have been borne out during the many outdoor excursions and other activities that Guaita offer, highlighting the park’s importance for wildlife. The majority of their work centres on providing environmental education to the school groups that visit the park. The wonderful concentration of volcanic cones and lava flows is an excellent geological resource and children are encouraged to imagine what it would be like to travel back in time to remote areas, overwhelmed by tremendous volcanic eruptions. A good example is the visit to Croscat, in the municipality of Santa Pau: visitors can enter the area that visitor services and activities • Environmental education. Guided excursions for schools plus other leisure activities for young children. Young children can participate in summer camps designed to teach the environment through games. Ratio of 1 guide/teacher per 20 students. • Naturalist excursions. These are especially designed for families and organised groups and following trails in the La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park.
was once quarried for the volcano’s pyroclastic material, thereby making it a particularly good site for environmental interpretation. Guaita also offers guided excursions for families and other groups along the park’s trails and provide a relaxed introduction into the world of vulcanology. Guaita programmes visits to fascinating sites such as Croscat or the Fageda d’en Jordà, a singular beechwood growing on a lava flow, that are always conducted on foot so as to minimise environmental impact. Coincidentally, both Nani and Beth are magicians, which enables them to broaden their range of activities and including magic shows and workshops in their work. This wealth of experience has also led them to set up the Desert Màgic campaign, which takes them each year for a few days to the schools and hospitals in the Saharan refugee camps in Tinduf (Algeria) to practice their magic.
• Specialised guides. Environmental educators for a number of years, their experience is concentrated mainly on the interpretation of the natural world and in particular geology (vulcanology), ecosystems and landscapes.
In addition, Guaita is also closely involved in volunteer programmes and activities coordinated in Sant Feliu de Pallerols, where Nani and Beth live and work, one of the towns that lies fully within the La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park.
Material/equipment provided Workbooks and dossiers for school children (depending on age), an information guide to the Natural Park for adults and a field notebook for children.
Open All year round Official endorsements Natural Park Collaborative Body Natural Park Accredited Guides
• Volunteers. Guaita collaborates with local volunteer programmes and activities. 28
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Languages Catalan, English and French
Contact details C/ Puig de Colltort, 6 17174 Sant Feliu de Pallerols (Girona) Tel.: 657 86 18 05 / 650 97 09 60 guaitagarrotxa@yahoo.es www.guaitagarrotxa.cat
ALBERGUE & RESTAURANTE BELLAVISTA
The small medieval village of Santa Pau nestles between volcanoes in the heart of the region of La Garrotxa. And here on the edge of the village, immersed in the region’s attractive countryside, we find the spacious rural complex of Bellavista, combining a restaurant and hostel. The complex caters for those wanting leisure activities as well as relaxation. Its strategic location means Accommodation type Youth hostel, hostel and restaurant visitor services and activities • The centre acts as a hostel for school and summer camps, as well as for family reunions, for groups of friends, for hikers, etc. • A small fully equipped kitchen is available for clients. • Free tickets for clients for the visits and excursions of the Discover La Garrotxa programme. • Close proximity to the Itinerànnia
that visitors can leave the car behind and, instead, take long walks through the countryside or through the streets of Santa Pau to discover the hidden gardens where a local delicacy, fesols (small, exquisitely flavoured white beans), are grown or explore two of the jewels of the Natural Park: the volcanoes of Croscat and Santa Margarida. In spring and summer, a visit to the Can Batlle waterfall is highly recommendable, and in autumn a visit to the Fageda d’en Jordà. With luck, and regardless of the season, you may possibly be able to confirm that the accommodation is worthy of its name and make out the beautiful view of the turquoise Mediterranean beyond the mountains. Both the restaurant and the accommodation are outstanding in their functioning and commitment to the environment, with recycling and energy-saving systems integrated throughout the entire establishment, resulting in it being a worthy holder of the Environmental Quality Distinction (Distintiu de Qualitat
footpath network, Itinerary 3 of the Natural Park (between Santa Pau and Olot) and GR-2. • The hostel has also runs a farm shop in the town’s main square, selling local products such as honey, vegetables, beans, chocolates, jams and liqueurs. • Restaurant with traditional Catalan cuisine, offering both moderately priced menu options as well as organising wedding receptions, baptisms, anniversaries, etc. • Pets are welcome and there are also facilities for horses.
Ambiental) award. Bellavista has also entered into an agreement to improve the information provided to visitors about the region, producing a consultative report about the park and territory plus the European Charter of Sustainable Tourism and its objectives, as well as providing information about accredited companies, workshops and local craftworks.
Languages Catalan Location Santa Pau (Girona) Sant Martí road, 10 Coordinates: 42º 8’ 51.09” N, 2º 34’ 11.56” E Capacity • 15 rooms, sleeping 72 • 86-cover restaurant Facilities • Restaurant • Some rooms with en-suite bathroom • Some rooms with balcony • One room (with en-suite bathroom) adapted for people of reduced mobility • Two multi-activity rooms (approximate capacity, 40 people). One of these has a fully equipped kitchen (fridge, freezer, microwave, etc.); both have a TV, DVD, sound system, table games, etc. • First-aid room • Garden and balcony • Different areas for sports and games: basketball, table tennis, billiards, table football, football • Children’s playground
Open All year round, but only with reservations Prices • Accommodation from 15 €/person/night • Menu from 9 € Official endorsements • Park Information Point • Environmental Quality Distinction (Distintiu de Qualitat Ambiental) Contact details Tel.: 972 68 05 12 info@santapaurural.cat www.santapaurural.cat
LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
29
LA FAGEDA Els Casals farmhouse is located in a typical La Garrotxa estate (15 ha) in the Fageda d’en Jordà, a beechwood that is also one of the most famous woodlands in La Garrotxa Volcanic Zone Natural Park. It is the headquarters of La Fageda, a cooperative founded in 1982 by a psychologist Cristóbal Colón (the Spanish version of the name Christopher Columbus), who did not need to discover America in order to set out on his own passionate adventure ... The personal experience he gained while working in various psychiatric hospitals with the social and workplace integration of people with special needs and severe learning disorders is reflected in the fact that almost half of the 300 people who work in La Fageda come from this sector. The objective of Cristóbal Colón and other workers who joined the project was to offer these people therapeutic help based on the daily life of the farm. The principal activity in La Fageda is the production of yoghurt and it is now the third largest producer in Catalonia; its brand name La Fageda is now synonymous with quality. The breadth of this project, well known in Catalonia, but also interna-
tionally, is a clear example of how the promotion of social values can be compatible with commercial success. Although not strictly considered ecological production, milk is obtained from around 500 Friesian cows fed on natural fodder and from which yoghurts of almost twenty flavours are produced. The Girona Regional Council has awarded La Fageda the accolade of the highest quality milk of Girona. More than 30,000 people participate in the guided visits to La Fageda and its installations annu-
ally, and are taken to see the cows, the milking parlour, milk tanks and yoghurt factory. Small children love seeing calves close up and being able to touch them. Finally, at the end of the visit, participants enjoy a yoghurt tasting. A contribution towards sustainable tourism in the park is the aim of these visits, with an emphasis on the quality of the experience, rather than the quantity of visitors. Visits are free (by prior arrangement), except for groups, and the profits obtained are reinvested in the cooperative.
visitor services and activities • Guided visits. These are designed to demonstrate the full production processes for yoghurts and other handcrafted milkbased desserts. Families tend to visit at weekends, while other groups and schools visit at other times. • Dairy product production. La Fageda is the third largest yoghurt manufacturer in Catalonia, producing 35 million units per year.
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 9014 • Park Information Point Contact details Mas Els Casals 17811 Santa Pau (Girona) Tel.: 902 11 81 50 visites@fageda.com www.fageda.com
• Plant nursery and gardening. Replanting and landscape works, and design and maintenance of gardens in a dozen municipalities in La Garrotxa and the Natural Park. • Social work. La Fageda helps with contributions towards social activities organised by charities, sports clubs, health groups and others.
30
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Material/equipment provided Information leaflets and teaching materials for students and teachers Languages Catalan and Spanish (for large groups, by prior appointment) Open All year round
APARTAMENTOS CAN CAMÓ The Can Camó tourist apartments are located in the town of Tortellà, on the very edge of the Alta Garrotxa, a protected area in the north of the region characterised by its forests, deep valleys and spectacular cliffs; a stimulating and tranquil landscape which can be readily explored using this accommodation as a base. The intense efforts made while reforming Can Camó — a building over two hundred years old — are clearly visible in the rustic nature of its structure and décor, with the typical Catalan-style floor tiling, stone walls and entrance arch. The apartments are integrated into the urban centre of Tortellà, allowing the visitor to enter the Alta Garrotxa landscapes on foot, on bicycle or on horseback to visit the well conserved towns and villages of the area, or see the medieval bridge over the River Llierca. Abundant information is provided in the accommodation about the numerous activities in the area, and Ricard, the owner and host, is more than happy to expand on this.
A more tranquil option would be to wander through the town’s quiet streets, enjoy the apartment’s gardens, barbeque and loungers, and roundoff the day watching the sunset from a comfortable chair in the dining room. Can Camó is comprised of one apartment on each of its two floors. Fully equipped, these ensure complete commodity and comfort, including for young children who will undoubtedly return again and again to the wooden playhouse and sand pit provided for them in the garden. Can Camó’s efforts to provide detailed and accurate information about the area are combined with the aim of managing the number of visitors going to the most-visited parts of the Alta Garrotxa protected area. Here, the availability of first-hand information is crucial and Can Camó also aims via its webpage to encourage visitors to behave in respectful and sustainable ways whilst they are in La Garrotxa.
Accommodation type Rural tourist apartment
Languages Catalan and French
visitor services and activities • Mountain bikes, included in the price, are available for clients. • Free tickets for clients for the visits and excursions of the Discover La Garrotxa programme. • Information about the area.
Location Tortellà (Girona) C/ Olot, 9 Coordinates: 42º 14’ 0.97” N, 2º 37’ 45.45” E
Facilities • Fully equipped kitchen (fridge, washing machine, dish-washer, microwave oven) • Satellite TV • DVD • Internet connection
Capacity 2 apartments, sleeping 12
Open All year round Prices 130 €/night Official endorsements Park Information Point • Bicycles • Garden • Children’s playground • Barbeque • Close to the municipal swimming pool
Contact details Tel.: 629 78 21 79 can-camo@ricardcamo.com www.can-camo.com
LA GARROTXA VOLCANIC ZONE NATURAL PARK
31
Iberian Black Pigs grazing in a Cork Oak dehesa in spring.
SIERRA DE ARACENA Y PICOS DE AROCHE NATURAL PARK Dehesas and Sweet Chestnut forests in the western reaches of the Sierra Morena Of all the protected areas in Andalusia in the Sierra Morena, the Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche Natural Park is the least rugged and mountainous, and its charms and attractions are to be found more in its rural landscapes dotted with wonderful villages such as Cumbres Mayores, Aroche, Cala and Cumbres de San Bartolomé, all of great historical interest, and the excellently preserved oak forests populated by almost all the typical Mediterranean tree species (mainly Holm, Cork, Lusitanian and Pyrenean Oaks). Add the leafy Sweet Chestnut forests found on the coolest north-facing slopes and the picture of the typical landscape of this mountain range is complete. Even so, perhaps the most characteristic landscape of this Natural Park are the Holm and Cork Oak dehesas or wood pastures, where the famous Iberian Black Pigs graze and glean acorns, and provide the raw material for the famous ham-curing town of Jabugo. The forests of Aracena also provide other delights, and are renown for their chestnuts and an abundance of wild mushrooms such as Caesar’s Mushroom (Amanita caesarea) and many different types of boletus. n the westernmost part of the province of Huelva and as it approaches the Portuguese border, the outline of the long mountain chain of the Sierra Morena — Andalusia’s veritable backbone — gradually begins to soften and lose some of its former ruggedness; in this sector of the Sierra Morena (named Sierra de Aracena after the local capital) the highest peaks struggle to reach 1,000 m. The Natural Park that protects this part of the Sierra Morena and the Picos de Aroche is largely covered by forests composed of, above all, various species of oaks. Holm, Cork, Lusitanian and Pyrenean Oaks, in this order, cover a large part of the territory and their dominance is only challenged by the Sweet Chestnut, perhaps the bestknown tree of these mountains, which grows on the highest northfacing slopes. Over the centuries human occupation has altered the configuration of the original forests and today we find a landscape characterised by highly biodiverse dehesas (wood pastures), home to the famous Black Iberian Pigs that have bestowed such deserved fame on the gastronomy of the towns of these mountains.
I
The dehesa: a pact between man and nature Visitors to the Sierra de Aracena will find a protected area that has been greatly influenced by the techniques that local people have traditionally employed to garner a living from the forests that surround them. Centuries of exploitation of this Mediterranean landscape has led to the opening up of vast tracts of forest and the disappearance of low scrub- and shrublands, and their replacement by
the dehesas or wood pastures that, albeit a semi-natural habitat, provide a haven for many species of wild animal and plant and a productive resource for local people. In all, this unique habitat occupies over 30% of the surface area of the Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche Natural Park. Undoubtedly, the product par excellence of these mountains, which has spread the fame of the dehesas of the Natural Park far and wide, is the local ham, produced from the freely grazing Iberian Black Pigs that feed on the seasonal abundance of pastures and acorns fallen from the region’s many oaks. Pigs are allowed to roam from the age of 10 months onwards and thanks to the highly nutritional acorns quickly gain weight — up to 40 kg in just a few months. The excellence of local pig-based products — including the worldfamous Jabugo cured ham — depends as much on the particular taste of the essential oils contained in the acorns the pigs consume, as on all the exercise the pigs get during their stay in the open-air. In all, there are around 500 pig farms in the Jabugo Denomination of Origin, which together account for over 60,000 Iberian Black Pigs. Around 50,000 animals are sacrificed every year and in the storehouses at any one time there are no less than 100,000 hams, worth over 22 million euros. The best dehesas, dotted with Cork, Holm and the Lusitanian Oaks, are to be found in the eastern sector of the Natural Park. The size of the largest Lusitanian Oaks — for example those that grow in some of the dehesas near Cala and Aroche, or in the well-developed dehesas between Jabugo and Castaño del Robledo — make it is posSIERRA DE ARACENA Y PICOS DE AROCHE NATURAL PARK
33
Forest fruits The southern sector of the Natural Park is higher and is also where most of the human population is concentrated; here, the predominant tree is the Sweet Chestnut, although there are also a number of valuable stands of Pyrenean Oak in the highest, most humid spots. Autumn is possibly the most recommendable time of year to visit, just as the centuries-old Sweet Chestnuts growing in Los Marines and Castaño del Robledo are producing their wonderful fruits and are showing off their golden autumnal colours. The triangle composed of the municipalities of Galaroza (over 700 ha of Sweet Chestnut woodland), Fuenteheridos (600 ha) and Castaño del Robledo (700 ha) is the centre of local chestnut production, most of which is exported to make the beloved marron glacé. The province of Huelva produces 33% of all Andalusian chestnuts, that is, around 3,200 tonnes of chestnuts a year. If the rains come and the weather stays mild, autumn can also be a wonderful time for wild mushrooms and other fungi, and in this
part of the province of Huelva alone around 1,200 species of fungi have been identified, of which the most sought-after are Caesar’s Mushroom (Amanita caesarea), the boletus Boletus sps. and Saffron Milk-caps Lactarius sps. In some areas of the Natural Park, the collection of wild mushrooms and truffles can provide an income of up to 6,000 € per year per hectare. As a result, the Sierra de Aracena was chosen by the Andalusian government as a site for an official mycological market-place, like the one that already existed in Jimena de la Frontera (Cádiz). Here, the sale of mushrooms such as Amanita ponderosa is regulated and technical and botanical advice is provided to ensure that products meet quality standards and are safe from a health point of view. The market also acts as meeting-place for collectors and wholesalers, who can thus settle on fair prices for the fungi put on sale. It has been calculated that fungi collection in Andalusia generates around 12 million euros a year, and a large part of this figure can be put down to the mountains of Huelva. The human influence on these landscapes is not only evident in the dehesas, as many of the region’s riversides evince — here local people have installed their small-holdings and pastures, although there are still some rivers boasting generous riparian woodland composed of a multitude of willows, Alders and ashes. In some places, gallery forests thrive, as on the banks of the river Múrtigas downstream from Galaroza, and along Rivera de Huelva, Rivera Caliente, Arroyo Guijarra, Rivera del Chanza and Barranco del Colgadizo.
North-facing slope with mixed Sweet Chestnut and Cork Oak woodland.
Ancient Sweet Chestnuts in the Sierra de Aracena.
sible to conceive what the primitive forests of these mountains would have looked like in past centuries. The Pyrenean Oak was once also abundant, but today can only be seen at its best in a few wellpreserved stands such as on Pico del Castaño, and in Sierra de Navahermosa and Arroyomolinos de León. Part of that original forest cover succumbed to the axe and, in particular, to the disastrous practice of planting eucalypts and pines, which fortunately are mainly found just outside the protected area.
34
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Black Stork perched on a Cork Oak. Dehesa in spring. The Black Vulture breeds in the nearby Sierra Pelada, but feeds in the parks’ dehesas.
The land of the Black Vulture The skies of these mountains are dominated by raptors such as Golden, Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Griffon Vulture and Eagle Owl. Nevertheless, purely in terms of its rarity value, the most valuable raptor in the area is the Black Vulture, which breeds near the southernmost edge of the Natural Park in the Sierra Pelada y Rivera del Aserrador Natural Area, one of the most important breeding nucleus of the species in Andalusia and the whole of the Iberian Peninsula. Of all Spanish avian scavengers, the Black Vulture is the specialist in prospecting scrublands, so common in Mediterranean mountains, where it not only finds the carcasses of cattle and biggame species, but also comes across much smaller mammals such as rabbits. Back in the previous century the local Black Vulture colony was seriously threatened by the forestry exploitation that was being carried out in a number of private estates, and after a number of years of constant decline the colony bottomed out in 1998 at just 58 pairs. However, since then and thanks to concerted conservation policies, this negative tendency has been inverted and the most recent censuses (2009) have revealed the presence of 109 pairs, the most important colony in Andalusia (out of a regional total of just over 270 pairs). The common mammals of the dehesas and forests include the Egyptian Mongoose, Beech Marten, Badger, Wild Cat, Least Weasel and Genet, while the rivers and streams harbour another of the park’s faunal jewels, the shy Black Stork. Just as in the case of the Black Vulture, the Black Stork population of these sierras is tremendously important on an Andalusian scale: the most recent censuses (2005) indicate that 17 pairs breed in this area out of a total in Andalusia of just over 50 pairs. Certain rivers and streams such as the Múrtigas and Sillo are perfect refuges for Leuciscus pyrenaicus, Rutilus alburnoides and Anaecypris hispanica, three threatened Iberian fishes, and Otters and Polecats. The presence of Otters in these waters, along with the young Spanish Imperial Eagles born in Doñana that use these mountains as a dispersal area, are signs that the environmental quality of the area is high.
From the dolmen to the farmstead Aside from its importance from a natural point of view, Sierra de Aracena is also home to more well-preserved villages and settlements than any other region in the whole of Andalusia. For whose wanting to take a step back in time, the first settlers of these mountains left behind a number of dolmens and standing stones that in the Sierra de Aroche are known as the Devil’s Stones (Las Piedras del Diablo). Just a few kilometres from the town of Aroche near the hamlet of Castañuelos stands an excellent example of these primitive funerary stones, in one the most important Bronze Age archaeological sites in the Iberian Peninsula. Here it is easy to appreciate the typical tombs and burial places — or cists — of the area, dug into the ground and bordered by a series of vertical slate slabs supporting other flat slate slabs. The castle of Cortegana is a magnificent example of the numerous fortresses scattered around the municipalities of the Natural Panoramic view of Castaño del Robledo.
SIERRA DE ARACENA Y PICOS DE AROCHE NATURAL PARK
35
Park, which give a good idea of the turbulent past of these frontier lands, where great battles were once fought with the Moors and the neighbouring Portuguese. In fact, in the western sector of the park there is a vast area known as Las Contiendas (literally, ‘the contests’), whose name is a reminder of the continuous skirmishes between the Spanish and Portuguese armies over the lands conquered from the Moors. The Moorish legacy is also present in the Sierra de Aracena in the form of the small tenth-century mosque that has survived in Almonaster la Real. Mysticism, religion and mystery also have their place in these sierras. La Peña de Arias Montano in Alájar is a wonderful viewpoint, once used as a retreat by hermits and anchorites, including Arias Montano himself, and is riddled by over 30 natural caves. Nearby lies one of the Natural Park’s geological treasures — the first cave in Europe ever to be opened to tourists. La Gruta de las Maravillas, whose entrance is within the town of Aracena itself, was opened to the public in 1914 and since then thousands of visitors have marvelled at its 12 chambers replete with spectacular stalactite and stalagmite formations.
View of the town of Alájar.
PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND PUBLIC FACILITIES Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche Natural Park • Date declared. 28 July 1989 • Surface area. 186,827 ha • Province. Huelva • Municipalities. Alájar, Almonaster La Real, Aracena, Aroche, Arroyomolinos de León, Cala, Cañaveral de León, Castaño del Robledo, Corteconcepción, Cortegana, Cortelazor, Cumbres de Enmedio, Cumbres de San Bartolomé, Cumbres Mayores, Encinasola, Fuenteheridos, Galaroza, Higuera de La Sierra, Hinojales, Jabugo, Linares de La Sierra, Los Marines, La Nava, Puerto Moral, Santa Ana La Real, Santa Olalla del Cala, Valdelarco, Zufre. • ECST accreditation. 2004 • Other types of protection. Special Protection Area for Birds, Site of Community Importance • Contact details Plaza Alta, s/n, Edificio Cabildo Viejo 21200 Aracena (Huelva) Tel.: 959 12 95 39/ 959 12 95 49 pn.aracena.cma@juntadeandalucia.es Go to Ventana del Visitante at: juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente
36
vISITOR FACILITIES CABILDO VIEJO VISITOR CENTRE This centre is located in an historical building in the town of Aracena (sixteenth century). A visit to the centre will provide visitors with a good idea of the main characteristics of this protected area (geology and relief, flora, fauna, etc.), as well as the local climatic peculiarities, which have had an important influence over the centuries on the way that local people have made their livings in these mountains. • Location and contact details. Plaza Alta, s/n, Aracena (Huelva). Tel.: 959 12 88 25 • Services. Exhibition rooms, audio-guides, shop (on sale publications about and products from Andalusian protected areas and the Andalusian Natural Park Brand). • Opening times. All year round, Tuesday-Sunday. Summer: 10-14 and 18-20; winter: 10-14 and 16-18. • Access for people with reduced mobility INFORMATION POINTS • El Charcón. Higuera de la Sierra. Avda. de la Cabalgata de los Reyes Magos. Access for people with reduced mobility.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
• Arroyomolinos de León. Arroyomolinos de León. Edificio del Guadalinfo, near town hall. Tel. 959 19 76 75. Access for people with reduced mobility. RECREATIONAL FACILITIES PICNIC SITES • Dehesa Tres Encinas (Cala). This is also the site of the church of San Roque, the patron of the village of Cala. • ElTalenque (Galaroza). Near the village of Navahermosa. Start of the Talenque-Valdelarco trail. VIEwPOINTS • Alto del Bujo (Arroyomolinos de León). • Del Castañuelo (Aracena). • Cerro de San Cristóbal Norte (Almonaster La Real). • Cerro de San Cristóbal Sur (Almonaster La Real). • El Embalse (Puerto-Moral). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Ribera de Alájar (Alájar). FOOTPAThS AND TRAILS A network of 20 waymarked paths totalling 83 km exists in the park, of which the following
are some of the best for exploring the Natural Park: • Alto del Bujo. During the first part of this walk along the old trail of ‘Camino del Bujo’ walkers traverse Holm Oak and Cork Oak woods and, after climbing a little further, soon enter areas of scrub and olive groves. At the end of the walk there is viewpoint with excellent panoramic views over the Natural Park. Length: 3.9 km. Time: 1 h 30 min-2 h. • Aracena-Fuenteheridos. The first part of this route passes through a very humanised landscape of small vegetable plots and scattered trees, which then gives way to deciduous oak and, above all, Sweet Chestnut woodland. Length: 10.6 km. Time: 3 h 30 min-4 h. • Ribera de Jabugo. This path links the villages of Galaroza and Castaño del Robledo, and runs along a stream — La Ribera de Jabugo — whose name, like that of the village itself, is due to the abundance of Elder Trees. One of the main attractions of this walk is the wonderful botanical variety that walkers can admire along the way. Length: 4.8 km. Time: 2 h-2 h 30 min. • Climb to summit of San Cristóbal. This walk climbs quite steeply through Sweet
OThER FACILITIES MUSEO DEL JAMÓN. IBERIAN BLACk PIG INTERPRETATION CENTRE This museum devoted to Iberian cured ham and the famous Iberian Black Pigs has seven rooms dedicated to the millenary tradition of breeding and rearing these pigs. Mycological (fungi) Information Point. Aracena. Tel.: 663 93 78 70 museodeljamon@ayto-aracena.es www.aracena.es
Chestnut forests and before reaching the summit there area two vantage points that provide excellent views of the surrounding countryside. Length: 5.6 km (circular walk). Time: 3-4 h. BIkE LANES The Natural Park also has two itineraries that have been specially designed with cycle-touring in mind: • Carril Blanco. 6.2 km in and around the town of Zufre (Huelva). As a walking route, also possible for people with reduced mobility. • Minas de Teuler (Santa Olalla del Cala). 13.2 km circuit that for the most part follows the route of an old mine railway.
GRUTA DE LAS MARAVILLAS Three-level cave-system in the marble rocks on which the local castle stands. Wonderful variety of formations (stalactites, stalagmites,
columns, etc.) and underground lakes. Open to the public since 1914. To preserve the particular environmental conditions, access is limited. Aracena. Tel.: 663 93 78 76 www.aracena.es HISPANO-ROMAN CITY OF TURÓBRIGA The ruins of this city, started in the second century BC to protect the local mines, preserve the vestiges of different urban features such as thermal baths, the Forum and the Campo de Marte (an area used for physical recreation). Aroche. Tel.: 959 14 02 01 / 605 33 88 72 www.aroche.es www.picosdearoche.com
1
Cabildo Viejo Visitor Centre
2
El Charcón Information Point
3
Arroyomolinos de León Information Point
EX-301 Encinasola
EX-201 EXTREMADURA Cumbres de Enmedio
Cumbres de San Bartolomé
Cumbres Mayores
N-435 Arroyomolinos de León
Cañaveral de León 3
A-66
Hinojales Nava
N-433
Valdelarco
Aroche
Galaroza
A-434 Embalse de Aracena
Cortelazor
Cala El Real de la Jara
Jabugo
Fuenteheridos Los Marines 1 Castaño del Robledo Almonaster la Real Aracena Alájar Linares Santa Ana la Real de la Sierra Cortegana
Corteconcepción
Santa Olalla del Cala
Puerto-Moral
N-433 A-461
Higuera de la Sierra 2
A-479
A-461
A-461 5
10
E-803 Embalse de Zufre
Campofrío
HU-7104 0
Zufre
15
km
Granada de Río-Tinto
N-435 SIERRA DE ARACENA Y PICOS DE AROCHE NATURAL PARK
37
CASAS RURALES EL CAMPANARIO & EL MIRADOR Built in the shadow of the imposing peak of Arias Montano in one of the most beautiful parts of the whole Sierra de Aracena, where the green of the Sweet Chestnuts and Cork Oaks blends in with the grey of the local rock, the village of Alájar (a name of Arab origin meaning‘stone’) is set in magnificent surroundings watered by ebullient springs and small streams. In the heart of the Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche Natural Park, this town was founded by the Romans and today its white walls boast a proud architectural and monumental heritage that has been declared a site of historical-artistic interest. El Campanario and El Mirador are two very welcoming self-catering houses that form part of an old but completely restored building. The design of these two carefully decorated houses is modern in terms of layout and functionality (loft accommodation), and one has been fully adapted for guests with reduced mobility. The houses have a small library with numerous publications about the area and the Natural Park and the activities on offer, as well as details of footAccommodation type • CR El Campanario: Simple self-catering house, whole-house rental only • CR El Mirador: Simple self-catering house, whole-house rental only Visitor services and activities • Information about the region provided in the houses. • Activities such as historical itineraries, speleology, archery, walking, orienteering, climbing, canyoning, canoeing and horse riding can be organised for guests via a local active tourism company. • Local honey, chestnut preserve and traditional pastries on sale.
paths, itineraries and local gastronomy, which guests may want to browse through to discover more about the Natural Park. In the same building the owners have a restaurant where guests can enjoy typical local food, as well as a cafeteria-cum-cake shop where the most sweet-
• Restaurant offering traditional local cuisine. • Guests may opt for half-board or fullboard.
toothed will be able to taste the wonderful local pastries and desserts. The owners of El Campanario and El Mirador aim to improve their energy efficiency in the short term and are in the process of substituting the current heating and hot-water system with another run on water heated by a biomass boiler.
Facilities • Fully equipped kitchen • TV • Board games • El Mirador is adapted for people with reduced mobility • Swimming pool nearby • Cafe, restaurant and cake-shop on premises Open All year round
Languages English and French Location Alájar (Huelva) C/ San Bartolomé, 6 Coordinates: 37º 52’26.47”N, 6º 39’56.52”W Capacity • CR El Campanario: sleeps 2-4 • CR El Mirador: sleeps 2-4 • Direct access from one house to the other can be arranged if desired
38
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Official endorsements Andalusia Natural Park Brand Prices Accommodation and breakfast: 70-80 €/day, 300 €/week (minimum stay two nights). Guests can opt for half-board (30 € for two people) or full board
Contact details Tel.: 657 33 96 56 info@bozquezrural.com www.bozquezrural.com
LA POSADA DE ALÁJAR La Posada is a small rural hotel located in the centre of the charming village of Alájar — one of the most picturesque and best-preserved in the Sierra de Aracena. Alájar lies at the foot of the renowned Peña de Arias Montano, a vantage point that boasts an impressive panorama of the whole mountain range, dotted with white villages and hamlets. The hotel is unique in that it belongs to the municipal government but is currently managed by Lucy and Ángel. It occupies an eighteenth-century mansion, consisting of two buildings and a courtyard, and was refurbished during the first half of the nineteenth century for use as an inn. The oldest building, embellished with chestnut-wood carvings, houses the majority of the bedrooms, while the kitchen and a welcoming dining room are located in what was formerly the stables and granary. The large entrance hall, complete with an open fireplace, armchairs, books, magazines and a wealth of information about the Natural Park, is a tempting place to relax after a long day out in the countryside.
One of the things that Lucy and Ángel are most proud of is their ‘mountain breakfasts’. Along with their morning tea or coffee, guests can sample organic bread, manteca colorá (spreadable spicy pig fat), Iberian Black Pig paté, home-made jams and preserves, local honey and as many as ten different varieties of extra virgin olive oil, each with a subtly different flavour, all of which is included in the price of the room. La Posada can provide guests with information
about walking trails close to the hotel, such as the charming path that follows the river Alájar, along the length of which many springs, water mills and irrigation channels can be seen, as well as enclosures full of free-range Iberian Black Pigs foraging in the dehesa (wood—pasture). In addition, the hotel can apprise guests of the range of activities offered by local companies, designed to help them get to know and enjoy the natural park. Within the limitations imposed on the hotel by its situation as a protected building, La Posada makes every effort to ensure that its fittings and equipment produce a minimal impact on the environment; good examples are the solar panels that provide a large proportion of the energy required to heat the water, and the use of loose rather than packaged goods (foodstuffs, cleaning products …) wherever possible. One of the hotel’s primary projects for the future is to produce a digital guidebook of the plants found in the surrounding area that guests will be able to consult at will.
Accommodation type One-star rural hotel
• Picnic lunches can be prepared for guests.
Capacity 8 rooms and 1 attic room, sleeping 20
Visitor services and activities • Information about activities in the countryside (trekking, cycle-touring, observation of flora and fauna …). • The hotel can put guests in contact with local companies offering adventure activities. • Traditional home cooking using local ingredients. • Guided visits to the Iberian Black Pigrearing country and a pork curing establishment. • La Posada is a member of the ‘Club de Producto de la Ruta del Jamón Ibérico’, a group devoted to the promotion of ham.
Languages English
Facilities • Cafeteria • Coffee, tea and herbal infusions are available for guests. • Open fire • Laundry service • Wi-Fi • Library
Location Alájar (Huelva) C/ Médico Emilio González, 2 Coordinates: 37º 52’27.30”N, 6º 39’58.75”W
Open All year round
Official endorsements • ‘Q’ quality tourism label • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point
Prices • Room (with breakfast): 60 €/night • Attic room (with breakfast): 120 €/night
Contact details Tel.: 959 12 57 12 info@laposadadealajar.com www.laposadadealajar.com
SIERRA DE ARACENA Y PICOS DE AROCHE NATURAL PARK
39
DOÑANA ARACENA AVENTURA After more than 20 years leading groups to Doñana, Joaquín Carrasco decided to set up his own company in his native village of Aracena. Today, Doñana Aracena Aventura has four staff members, although they also contract specialist guides in the high season. The company works in the field of active, rural and wildlife tourism, and was awarded the Best Wildlife Tourist Product at FITUR, the international tourism fair, in 1998. Hundreds of kilometres of signposted paths, running through diverse landscapes rich in dehesas (wood pasture) and Mediterranean, riverine, oak and Sweet Chestnut woodlands make the Aracena y Picos de Aroche Natural Park one of the best hiking areas in Andalusia. Doñana Aracena Aventura makes full use of this potential during their excursions, which include such evocative options as the Ruta del Contrabando (Smugglers’ Route), formerly used by blackmarketeers moving between Portugal and Andalusia visitor services and activities • Hiking and field centres. For school children and independent groups and individuals. Although Doñana Aracena Aventura has a general programme of excursions, such as the ‘Water’, ‘Mountain’, ‘Sweet Chestnut’ and ‘Gallery Woodland’ walks, their routes and visits can be tailormade to request. • Cultural and ethnographical visits. The numerous villages of the sierra are all ideal locations for learning about the park’s historical and gastronomic culture.
40
in the years after the Spanish Civil War. One of the most visited sites is the Gruta de las Maravillas (a cave), over 1 km in length and with the peculiarity that it starts as the simple extension of one of Aracena’s streets. In the same village, the company also offers morning and afternoon trips on a 50-seater tourist train, which runs on a daily basis. This vehicle is specially designed to cope with the steep slopes of many of the town’s narrow streets. Many of Doñana Aracena Aventura’s clients also show considerable interest in the other well-preserved mountain villages in the area and their monumental castles. Curiosities include the ancient public laundry in Linares de la Sierra, where washerwomen still do their laundry, and the mosque in Almonaster la Real, which contains the oldest mihrab
(equivalent to an altar) in the Iberian Peninsula. Doñana Aracena Aventura supports the local economy and sustainable tourism in the natural park by visiting local producers of serrano hams and other cured meats, cheeses, pastries and the local bakers who still use wood-burning ovens.
• Tourist train. A singular means of transport, capable of negotiating the steep slopes in Aracena, and a good way of visiting its attractive streets.
Material/equipment provided Explanatory leaflets covering the company’s activities
• Gastronomic routes. Following a long walk, typical local hams and cured meats can be tasted, along with a diversity of pastries and other sweet products. • Equestrian tourism. Horse riding. The surroundings of Doñana National Park, also in Huelva Province, are mostly used for this activity. • Mountain biking. Mountain bikes are the best means of covering the hundreds of kilometres of specially maintained and signposted trails in the Sierra de Aracena & Picos de Aroche Natural Park.
Languages English and Portuguese
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Open All year round Official endorsements Park Information Point Contact details Polígono Industrial Cantalgallo C/I, nº 20 21200 Aracena (Huelva) Tel.: 959 12 70 45 / 689 45 33 69 aracenaventura@hotmail.com www.donana-aracena-aventura.com
HOTEL APARTAMENTO RURAL FINCA VALBONO The Finca Valbono complex is situated on the road to Carboneras, about a kilometre from the town of Aracena. Nearby lies a Natural Park trail that links the historical centre of Aracena (of considerable cultural interest) with the cobbled streets of Corteconcepción: a 5.5 km-route through a verdant valley of vegetable gardens, orchards and Mediterranean forest. In the town of Aracena — capital of this mountainous region — visitors can lose themselves in a maze of narrow streets, littered with civil, religious and military edifices dating from many different eras, between which are secreted numerous fountains and stone wash-houses. Despite this abundance of historic and cultural marvels, the town’s most emblematic monument is undoubtedly the renowned Gruta de las Maravillas, a natural limestone cavern complete with stalagmites, stalactites, crystalline formations and even a subterranean lake. The accommodation offered by Finca Valbono consists of a traditional farmhouse reAccommodation type Three-star country hotel and self-catering accommodation visitor services and activities • Information about activities in the area. • Contact with companies offering active tourism (walking, cycle touring and horse trekking). • Pets are welcome (only in the selfcatering apartments). • Restaurant offering traditional local cuisine.
Languages English
furbished as a small country hotel, with six bedrooms and a restaurant offering cuisine typical of this mountain enclave, as well as 21 fully equipped self-catering apartments. Among the facilities available to guests are a swimming pool — in season — and various sports courts. Both the centuries-old alquería (an Arab word,
Location Aracena (Huelva) Carboneras road, km 1.2 Coordinates: 37° 54’ 16’’ N, 6° 33’ 20’’W Capacity • Hotel Rural: 6 rooms, sleeping 12 • 21 apartments, sleeping from 2 to 5 70-cover restaurant
signifying a small farmhouse surrounded by agricultural land) and the apartments are attended to meticulously by the staff, while the restaurant offers a splendid selection of local dishes, albeit updated to suit modern-day tastes. Guests may also consult a wide range of books about this protected area in the library.
• TV in the apartments • Telephone in the hotel rooms and apartments • Minibar in the hotel rooms • Wi-Fi in the communal areas • Swimming pool • Sports courts (padel tennis, football, etc.) • Kitchen in the apartments • 1 apartment has been adapted for use by people with limited mobility. Open All year round, except June
Facilities • Restaurant, bar • Lounge • Terrace • Library • TV in the hotel communal areas and rooms
Prices • Hotel rural: 85 €/night • Apartments: 89 €/night (for 2 people); 140 €/night (for 4 people) Contact details Tel.: 959 12 77 11 reservas@fincavalbono.com www.fincavalbono.com SIERRA DE ARACENA Y PICOS DE AROCHE NATURAL PARK
41
ALMA NATURA In autumn 2009, five hotels ‘with charm’ in the Sierra de Aracena & Picos de Aroche Natural Park started to offer their clients the possibility of participating for free in a range of excursions and visits to this reserve. This is the first time that this idea — christened the Green Experience — has been put into practice in Andalusia. Credit must go to Alma Natura, which both suggested the project to the hotels involved and promised to run it. This eagerness to innovate has accompanied Alma Natura since it was set up at the end of the 1990s, growing from the seed of a socio-cultural association in Arroyomolinos de León, one of the almost thirty municipalities in the Natural Park. At that time they were pioneers, at least in Huelva Province, for developing a project which integrated different perspectives, such as active tourism, environmental education and socio-cultural dynamism. Alma Natura now has ten staff plus a huge team of collaborators who operate their varied offer of tourist, educational, cultural and training activities that include hiking, canoeing, mountain biking, horse
visitor services and activities • Environmental education. Guided routes and interpretation workshops, schoolgroup activities, observation of fauna and flora, group camps and fungus forays. • Active tourism. Hiking, aquatic sports, treasure hunts, traditional games, introduction to nature, mountain biking, horse-riding routes, canoeing and archery.
riding, treasure hunts, traditional games and introduction to nature, as well as special programmes for companies and schools. Although the Sierra de Aracena is the principal centre of these activities, other protected areas in Andalusia have also been included over the last few years. This is the case in the Sierra Norte de Sevilla Natural Park, where since 2006 the company has run the majority of the visits to witness the autumn Red Deer rut. In parallel, Alma Natura has used its extensive professional experience to set in motion a line of work
• Training. Tailor-made courses for children, adults, specialists and company executives.
• Activities for companies. Traditional festivals, outdoor activities, country breaks, etc.
• Cultural and entertainment activities. Thematic routes, magic shows, theatre, exhibitions, story-telling and workshops. 42
Material/equipment provided Documentation and educational material for schools. The aim is to provide all Green Experience clients with walking sticks, an idea that Alma Natura is developing in collaboration with various hotels in the Sierra de Aracena & Picos de Aroche Natural Park.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
aimed at promoting the creation of new companies offering tourist and cultural services in the Sierra de Aracena area. A good example of its commitment towards sustainable tourism is the provision of free bags for all participants in the majority of the activities they organise. During the excursions, these are used by the participants to collect the litter, thereby helping to improve the conservation status of the places visited on the walks or where the activities are being undertaken.
Languages English
Open All year round Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point Contact details Puente del Chorrero s/n 21280 Arroyomolinos de León (Huelva) Tel.: 959 19 77 29 / 680 98 36 42 info@almanatura.es www.almanatura.es
CASA VENERA Situated in the lee of the hill known as Picote, on the banks of the River Jabugo, Casa Venera is part of a farmstead, fed by the bubbling spring of El Venero, from which it takes its name. Access to the estate is via an evocative trail that climbs through a thick forest of Holm Oaks and Sweet Chestnuts into the heart of the Sierra de Aracena. Casa Venera lies near the small village of Castaño del Robledo, whose name is indeed suggestive of the abundant Sweet Chestnuts and oaks — Pyrenean, Holm and Cork — that clothe the slopes here, forming one of the most extensive and best-conserved forests in the region. The whole ethos of both the farm (fruit, vegetables and livestock) and the casa rural has been developed according to strict ecological and bioclimatic principles. The building that houses Casa Venera blends into its surroundings perfectly, and has been constructed in the traditional architectural style of the region, using materials such as natural stone, lime and adobe. In addition, its day-to-day operation is entirely dependent on renewable energy sources (solar panels for electricity and hot water, and biomass bricks
Accommodation type Simple self-catering accommodation visitor services and activities • Information about the region. • The proprietors can put their guests in contact with local companies offering rural tourism and adventure activities (trekking, fungal forays, horse-riding routes, cycling itineraries …). • Natural therapies (sessions offering reiki, relaxation, meditation ...). • Guided tours of the farm’s organic fruit and vegetable plots.
for heating). Grey waters, previously sanitised by an ecological treatment plant, are nowadays reused to water shrubs and hedges around the farm. The house comprises a ground floor and an upstairs area known locally as a doblao. The accommodation, consisting of four double bedrooms, a lounge-dining room, kitchen and two bathrooms, is located on the ground floor. Additional space is available in the doblao, where guests can take part in the many courses and workshops offered by the farm, including yoga, relaxation, massage, reiki, environmental studies and permaculture. Casa Venera is one of several enterprises operated by the association Era Venera, which has also initiated a number of other interesting projects, such as the restoration and promotion of the Ruta del Contrabando (Smugglers’ Route) with neighbouring Portu-
• Guided walks around the various ecosystems of the farm (including interpretation of the landscape, observation of the flora and fauna …). • Birdwatching excursions. A hide and a bird feeding station have been set up in the grounds to facilitate photography (mainly passerines). • Courses and workshops (alternative therapies, organic agriculture, environmental education …). • Pets are welcome.
gal. It is also part of the Andalusian Seed Network. In order to expand their facilities, and to better attend to their foreign guests, the proprietors of Casa Venera are currently learning English. In addition, they intend to install a display cabinet, in which to exhibit and market both local artisan goods and produce from their own fruit and vegetable plots. In order that guests can observe, learn about and photograph birds on the farm without disturbing them, they are also constructing a hide in the grounds.
• Bathing/swimming area • Access for people with limited mobility • Hide for bird observation and photography Open All year round
Location Castaño del Robledo (Huelva) Finca El Venero, Camino Real from Castaño del Robledo to Jabugo, km 0.8 Coordinates: 37º 53’57.97”N, 6º 42’50.80”W Official endorsements Park Information Point
Capacity 4 rooms, sleeping 8 Facilities • Fully equipped kitchen • Organic fruit and vegetable plots • Gardens
Prices • From Monday to Thursday, by the room: 30 €/person/day (minimum 2 days). • Weekends: whole house rental: 70 €/ person (minimum 4 people).
Contact details Tel.: 959 50 12 03 / 686 25 84 26 info@casavenera.com www.casavenera.com
SIERRA DE ARACENA Y PICOS DE AROCHE NATURAL PARK
43
FINCA MONTEFRÍO Agrotourism might be the perfect word to define this family farm, which rears Iberian Black Pigs in the traditional manner — by allowing them to roam free and forage for acorns — and goats, chickens, ducks, rabbits and a donkey or two. The farm is ideal for this purpose, being located in the heart of an extensive wood-pasture of Holm and Cork Oaks (known as dehesa), near the village of Cortegana, in the western sector of the Sierra de Aracena, close to the Picos de Aroche. The four houses available for rent at Finca Montefrío, each with its own personality, have been constructed using local building materials. Montefrío and Misolete form part of the main structure of the original manor house, while La Morera and El Hornillo — slightly detached, and thus more private — have been adapted for use by people with limited mobility. One of the features of the complex is a swimming pool, much appreciated in the summer, especially by guests who’ve been helping Lola and Armando on Accommodation type Superior selfcatering accommodation
the farm, making goats’-milk cheeses, collecting eggs or harvesting organic vegetables from the allotment. If guests prefer, however, they can just enjoy the peace and quiet of the surrounding countryside, be it by birdwatching, walking, admiring the scenery, cycling or simply absorbing a sense of wellbeing.
• Sale of organic produce from the farm. • Pets are allowed, but please enquire beforehand.
Finca Montefrío’s contribution to the development of sustainable respectful tourism is manifest in the efforts made by its guests, whose very willingness to learn about and join in with the work of the farm engenders a special respect for, and appreciation of, the countryside here.
Capacity 4 houses, sleeping 24 Facilities • Organic farm • Swimming pool • Garden and barbeque • Children’s playground • Vegetable garden • Two of the houses are provided with access for people with limited mobility • Open fire
visitor services and activities • Guests can participate in on-site farm activities such as milking the goats, making cheese, collecting eggs, sowing and harvesting vegetables, etc.
Languages English and French
Open All year round Prices According to the capacity of each house, 120-215 €/day (minimum stay 2 days)
• Study of the dehesa ecosystem, and the extensive farming regime used to rear Iberian Black Pigs. • Ham-cutting courses. • Information about the region, and the various activities on offer (walking, cycle touring, horse trekking, donkey rides, culture, gastronomy …). 44
Official endorsements • ‘Q’ quality tourism label • Andalusia Natural Park Brand Location Cortegana (Huelva) Finca Montefrío, Repilado to La Corte road, km 3 Coordinates: 37º 56’ 30.83” N, 6º 48’ 0.70” W
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
• Library dedicated to the Iberian Black Pig, mycology (the study of fungi), ornithology and walking in the region. • TV
Contact details Tel.: 959 50 32 51 / 666 75 68 75 / 670 79 15 79 fincamontefrio@hotmail.com www.fincamontefrio.com
PICADERO LA SUERTE This horse-riding school is located in the La Suerte estate in Galaroza, one of the most attractive villages in the Sierra de Aracena & Picos de Aroche Natural Park. It is a family-run business traditionally dedicated to the breeding and breaking-in of horses, but now centres its activities on organising horse-riding routes in the park led by guides accredited and recognised by the International Federation of Equestrian Tourism. The idea of the horse riding school was conceived and then started up in the mid-1990s by Iluminado Tristancho, and now it is his sons, Julio and Iluminado, who currently run the business. Twenty horses are available and the moderate altitudes of the Sierra de Aracena are ideal for riding. Horses offer the opportunity to visit secret valleys or to ride along gentle ridges giving stunning views of these mountains.
visitor services and activities • Horse-riding routes. Group excursions in the Sierra de Aracena & Picos de Aroche Natural Park with horses specifically trained and equipped for the activity and terrain. • Horse-riding classes. Year-round courses given in a covered arena of 24 x 12 m and in an open-air arena of 40 x 20 m. • Professional training. Via contracts with the Andalusian Ministry of Employment, La Suerte offers numerous specialised courses oriented towards professional recruitment, for example, as an Equestrian Tourism Assistant or blacksmith.
The family Tristancho also owns two rural guesthouses: La Suerte, located in the same estate as the riding school, and Los Llanos, in the nearby village of Valdelarco, one of just ten establishments with accommodation in the park that have received the Andalusia Natural Park Brand. One of the keys of the success and prestige of La Suerte in Andalusia is its eagerness to diversify. Equestrian tourism is one example, but other activities include a programme of courses covering differing aspects of horse riding such as the training of blacksmiths. Horses are also used as a means of therapy for people with special needs, both children and adults. Collaboration with the cultural association Lieva, also based in Galaroza, is based around the conservation of local donkeys, including their daily feeding and care.
• Specialised guides. Guides qualified and recognised by the International Federation of Equestrian Tourism (IFET), the British Horse Society (BHS) and the Andalusian Government.
Languages English and French Open All year round
Contact details Carril Cuesta Palero, s/n 21291 Galaroza (Huelva) Tel.: 655 66 47 97 / 618 54 89 29 picad.lasuerte@terra.es www.fincalasuerte.com
• Working with people with special needs. Application of therapeutic techniques based on the proximity and contact with horses, for both children and adults.
Official endorsements • Park Information Point • Andalusia Quality Destination (Andalucía Destino Calidad) • Andalusia Natural Park Brand (for the casa rural Los Llanos, in Valdelarco, Huelva Province) SIERRA DE ARACENA Y PICOS DE AROCHE NATURAL PARK
45
HOSTAL SIERRA TÓRTOLA The Hostal Sierra Tórtola is situated in one of the least known but most beautiful corners of the northern sector of the Sierra de Aracena: the small and tranquil settlement of Hinojales, close to the border of the province of Badajoz and home to just 400 inhabitants. Magnificent free-range cattle and Iberian Black Pigs are reared in this land of Cork, Holm and Lusitanian Oak wood-pasture (dehesa), while many of the olive groves of the region are managed in an ecological fashion. Thanks to the extensive network of public footpaths that criss-cross the area around Hinojales, both these agricultural landscapes and the thickly forested margins of the Ribera de Hinojales can be explored on foot, by bicycle or on horseback. Sierra Tórtola is located right in the centre of Hinojales, close to the fifteenth-century church of Nuestra Señora de la Consolación. As well as accommodation, it has a bar and restaurant, where visitors can sample the exquisite cuisine of these mountains: mouth-watering tapas of tentullos (as boletus are called round here) or chanterelles, picked in the wild by José Antonio, proprietor of Accommodation type Two-star rural hotel visitor services and activities • Information about the region (regional festivals, gastronomy, heritage).
Sierra Tórtola, and idiosyncratically named cuts — presa, secreto, carrillera or pluma — of delicious pork from the Black Iberian Pigs of the region, cooked to perfection by Mª Luisa. At the right time of year, visitors can assist the proprietors with their daily farm work in the surrounding countryside, and even participate in the traditional pig-killing ceremonies. As an accredited Natural Park Information Point, the hotel can also provide detailed advice about visiting the Aracena protected area and the province of Huelva in general. The fact that the proprietors live just next door and are always available to attend to their guests’ needs adds to the charm of Sierra Tórtola; they have also made every effort to provide access for people with limited mobility. Among the future projects of the Hostal are plans to install a small shop, where visitors will be able to purchase some of the tasty gastronomic delicacies of the region — for example, a range of pork products, or goats’-milk cheeses flavoured with rosemary — and thus take a small piece of the Sierra de Aracena home with them.
• Information about active tourism in the areas (walking, cycle-touring). • Help with the farm work. • Traditional cuisine using typical local produce.
Languages English Location Hinojales (Huelva) C/ Arriba, 6 Coordinates: 38º 0’ 30.17” N, 6º 35’ 17.81” W Capacity • 5 rooms, sleeping 10 • 40-cover restaurant
Open All year round Prices Room: 42.80 €/night
Facilities • Restaurant • TV in rooms • Internet in rooms • One room has been adapted for use by people with limited mobility. 46
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Official endorsements Natural Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 959 72 27 31 info@sierratortola.com www.sierratortola.com
FINCA LA MEDIA LEGUA A legua (league) is defined as the distance that a person or horse can travel, walking slowly, in the course of one hour; in Spain this was fixed at twenty thousand pies, which is equivalent to 5,572.7 m. The tourist apartments attached to Finca La Media Legua are thus called because they lie at a point equidistant between the settlement of Los Marines and the regional capital, Aracena, precisely half a league from each. Renowned for its silver mines, cured pork products, tanneries and prosperous cork industry, Aracena — market town and livestock fair — is a thriving settlement with a detailed historical past. Los Marines is tiny by contrast: a little-known cluster of dwellings surrounded by a mosaic of terraced vegetable plots, scaling the surrounding hillsides. The wines produced from the vines grown in the north of Los Marines are of certified organic origin, while at the southern margin of the municipality, precipitous ridges rise to almost a thousand metres, from where tumble numerous streams (Buen Vino, El Membrillo, Fuente el Pero …) whose waters irrigate this attractive agricultural landscape. During the fourteenth century, these lands Accommodation type Rural apartments, 2 keys visitor services and activities • Information about the region. • Information about activities (walking, horse trekking, fungus forays …) offered by local companies.
were repopulated by people from Galicia and León under the tutelage of the Marín brothers, after whom this settlement is named. The apartments of La Media Legua are set in a forest enclave, amid centuries-old Sweet Chestnuts, and each is named after one of the many mountain springs of the Sierra de Aracena. The complex is also endowed with a spacious lounge, complete with an open fire. In the communal area outside, guests can make use of a wood-fired oven and barbeque, as well as the swimming pool in summer; there is also a children’s playground, making the finca ideal for families. Bicycles are available for hire on the estate, providing
• Bicycle hire. • In autumn, guests can witness the chestnut harvest. • Sale of local organic produce. • Pets are welcome.
the perfect means of transport for exploring the network of trails that leads into the surrounding countryside. On show in the reception area of the complex are a selection of delicious jams, honeys and other local produce, all of which have been awarded the Andalusia Natural Park Brand, as well as a number of other organic certifications and denominations of origin. Finca La Media Legua is also committed to the study and conservation of the Sweet Chestnut groves that have bequeathed their fruit, colour and cool shade to the estate for so long, but which are now threatened by modern agricultural practices.
Capacity 12 apartments (9 apartments with 1 double room; 2 apartments with 2 double rooms, and 1 studio apartment for 2 people): in all, sleeps 28 (with supplementary beds available for 12 more) Facilities • Each apartment has a fully equipped kitchen • Self-service washing machine and tumble-drier in the office • TV and Internet connection • Swimming pool • Garden with barbeque • Wood-fired oven • Children’s playground
Languages English and Portuguese Location Los Marines (Huelva) Finca la Media Legua N-433 road, km 91.200 Coordinates: 37º 54’ 2.21” N, 6º 37’ 0.70” W
• One of the apartments is suitable for people with limited mobility Open All year round Prices • Studio apartment: 75 €/night • Two-person apartment: 97 €/night • Four-person apartment: 140 €/night Official endorsements Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 669 49 06 48 / 676 85 75 16 info@fincalamedialegua.es www.fincalamedialegua.es
SIERRA DE ARACENA Y PICOS DE AROCHE NATURAL PARK
47
View over the marshes and the vera near the Palacio de Do単ana in the heart of the National Park.
DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE From the origins of conservation to a model of sustainable development The marshes that accompany the final reaches of the great river Guadalquivir have long been known as one of Europe’s great havens for wildlife. It should thus come as no surprise that the seeds of both the conservationist movement and zoological research in Spain were first sown here. Since the day that the naturalist José Antonio Valverde first came to Doñana in 1952 and set in motion a campaign to save this vast wilderness, Doñana has become one of the most actively protected areas in the whole of Spain. However, it has also been the scene of an on-going struggle to evolve a model of sustainable development capable of resisting the threats to its integrity that emanate from its intensely humanised surroundings.
he lure of Doñana and its fauna dates back to the thirteenth century and the reign of King Alfonso X the Wise, who declared the marshlands of Las Rocinas, a royal hunting estate. Thus, began the history of protection of one of Europe’s most valuable natural areas, an oasis of vital importance on the invisible corridor for fauna that links Europe and Africa. The biodiversity of this enormous area is exceptional and reveals itself to even the casual visitor, above all, in its impressive abundance of aquatic birds.
T
Where the Guadalquivir meets the Atlantic Although it might be tempting to think that the origin of this wonderful region is lost in the mists of time, the Doñana we know today, give or take a certain amount of human interference, is little different from the Doñana for which historical references exist. It was born out of a natural process and sculpted by the winds, the sea and the rivers, of all which have been at work here for little more than two thousand years. In the fourth century AC, Avieno described in his Ora maritima how the river Tartessos flowed into the Gulf of Tartesico, a vast sealagoon that once reached as far as the modern-day town of La Puebla del Río (Seville). The sands and other sediments brought down by the rivers Tinto, Odiel, Piedras and Guadiana gradually silted up this immense lagoon and formed a large tombolo, which eventually closed off the estuary. From this point onwards, the silts and muds carried by these rivers began to form the great marshlands, the natural foundation of Doñana.
Avieno and other classical writers popularised the legend of the mysterious civilisation of Tartessos, which, according to the German hispanist Adolph Schulten, was the first city-state to exist in Western Europe. At the beginning of the twentieth century Schulten instigated the famous excavations at El Cerro del Trigo, situated in the heart of Doñana, that uncovered the remains of a Roman settlement he claimed was built on the site of the mythical Tartessos. The debate has been reopened recently in light of a series of fascinating satellite images analysed by German scientists in 2003 and 2004 that show a number of curious circular structures in La Marisma de Hinojos (Huelva). The legend is thus now being re-evaluated given that recent evidence has forced scientists to reconsider the whole process of formation of this sector of the Andalusian coastline. It now seems possible that Doñana might not simply have succumbed to floods in the past; rather, a succession of periods of floods followed by retreats in water levels may have been the general tonic, which would have made these primitive settlements that have so captured our imagination much more of a possibility. The birth of the National Park In 1952 the biologist José Antonio Valverde, the first to recognise the importance of Doñana and to advocate its protection, set foot for the first time in what was then, he recalled a few years later, a “totally lost region”. Doñana and the Guadalquivir marshes were by the mid-1950s a collection of large estates associated with the some of the owners of the famous wine bodegas in Jerez de la Frontera. A DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
49
Aerial view of the dune front and a corral of Umbrella Pines.
visit to what was to become the Doñana Biological Reserve in the heart of the future National Park meant travelling to Sanlúcar de Barrameda, crossing the river and then travelling by mule around 40 kilometres to El Palacio, a seventeenth-century building built by the Dukes of Medina Sidonia and centre of operations of the estate owners. The spark that was to set in motion the complex operation that culminated in 1969 with the declaration of the Doñana National Park was a visit to Valverde by the owner of one of the large marshland estates who was horrified at the Ministry of Agriculture’s plans to drain and put the marshes under the plough. This was nothing new as in the past projects had been mooted to, variously, introduce grazing goats, use the marshes for military manoeuvres, cultivate rubber and plant eucalyptus trees. Thus begun a long campaign to collect funds and convince governments and institutions the world over of the need to save Doñana. A European movement set up by naturalists linked to the WWF and IUCN worked unceasingly until the Spanish Cabinet approved the creation of the Doñana National Park, with an initial surface area of 35,000 ha, in August 1969. The efforts of those involved was well worth it and what had once been a hostile and an all-but forgotten region became in just a few years one the most-admired natural protected areas in the whole of Europe; its catalogue of 28 species of breeding mammal, 125 birds, 17 reptiles, 9 amphibians and 8 fishes were to be the new park’s best asset and its principal allure. 50
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
A landscape in motion Two Doñanas co-exist: if the dry, sandy wastes are Atlantic in origin, the marshes and muddy bottoms are the progeny of the great river Guadalquivir. This duality has given birth to three characteristic but ever-changing ecosystems at the mercy of the seasons, the marshes, the dunes and the stabilised sands. By the end of summer the cracked sun-parched soils of the saltcrusted wetlands shine brilliant white as they wait for the first autumn rains to transform this desert into a vast shallow lake, which soon greens up as the first bulrushes and sedges begin to emerge. In spring the browns of the exposed mud begin to appear again and the full annual cycle is complete as summer imposes itself. In the space between the seashore and the edge of the marshes, the wind moves and moulds the dunes, only colonised by a few tufts of Marram Grass, and buries the Umbrella Pines and junipers standing in the depressions at the leading edge of the advancing dunes. These patches of vegetation, known as corrales, disappear and then reappear as the dunes advance, leaving behind them the dead trunks of the trees — known expressively as ‘crosses’ — that have fallen victim to this ceaseless fluctuation. The stabilised dunes and sands are the least changing landscape in Doñana, although the composition of the scrub that flowers there depends on the degree of environmental humidity. Lowlying areas known as the monte negro are dominated by impenetrable masses of gorse and heather, while drier areas or monte blanco are covered by swathes of rock-roses and Rosemary. The contact zone between the scrub and marshes — the vera — is a highly productive area of pastures frequented by Red and Fallow Deer, domestic cattle and the Rabbits that are such a vital part of the diet of the threatened Iberian Lynx and Spanish Imperial Eagle. The majestic cork oaks that grow in this strip of great biodiversity harbour Doñana’s renowned colonies or pajareras of European Spoonbill, White Stork, Grey, Night and Squacco Herons and Little and Cattle Egrets. Doñana teems with life and there is no need to visit the strictly protected Biological Reserve in the heart of Doñana, dedicated to research, to be able to appreciate its vast natural riches. In the Bonanza marshes near Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz), for example, it is possible to get excellent views of the Greater Flamingos and Avocets that come to feed in these traditional salt-pans. Another option is to cross the river from here and enter the pine woods of El Coto del Rey where the provinces of Huelva and Seville meet to watch the raptors that fill the skies; and here, a very lucky and patient visitor just might get a quick glimpse of the elusive Iberian Lynx deep in the thick scrub. For those who prefer seascapes, the coastal zone between Matalascañas and Mazagón (Huelva) boasts the dunes of El Asperillo, one of the most fragile and beautiful dune systems in the
(Left, top) Group of Greater Flamingos (Left, bottom) Glossy Ibis; this ibis’ best western European populations are in Doñana. (Centre) Purple Swamphen. (Right, top) Squacco Heron, one of Doñana’s rarest herons. (Right, bottom) Iberian Lynx, the animal symbol of Doñana, despite being seriously threatened in the protected area.
whole of Andalusia. Declared a natural monument, these dunes consist of accumulations of sand that in some places reach 100 m above sea level. The Cuesta Maneli path, well-signposted and equipped with steps and boardwalks that blend into the landscape, allows visitors to visit the very edge of the dune cliffs and enjoy this wonderful dune system without excessive effort. Not far inland lie the Abalario lagoons, excellent examples of the small wetlands that characterise this part of Doñana, which are visited, as is logical, by many aquatic birds. Even those areas that have been transformed by human activity still have a certain attraction. The rice paddies, for example, which began to appear on the right bank of the Guadalquivir from the 1920s onwards and which today occupy 35,000 ha, have become one of Doñana’s most important feeding sites for birds in summer and dry winters. Another good example of this curious symbiosis is the Veta la Palma estate, whose 11,000 plus ha occupy a sixth of the surface area of the Natural Space. Although partly given over to agriculture and animal husbandry, Veta la Palma in the municipality of La Puebla del Río (Seville) is famous for its aquacultural installations and few other places in the world can boast 3,200 ha of water surface area devoted to fish and shellfish production. This permanent wetland is visited annually by thousands of birds, some such as the Marbled Duck and Osprey in danger of extinction in Spain. Winter bird censuses in wet years have thrown up figures of around
300,000 birds, a wonderful resource for the ornithological tourism that in recent years has become another source of income for this rather special estate. A myriad of aquatic birds and refuge for threatened species Even when there are many other things to see and do, the highlight for visitors to natural protected areas is undoubtedly the fauna. The Guadalquivir marshes are the most important wintering grounds for aquatic birds in Europe. In good years such as the winter of 1988-1989, almost 700,000 birds are counted, although in recent years the average figure has remained around 370,000. Teal, Wigeon, Mallard, Northern Shoveler, Great Flamingo and Greylag Geese are the commonest birds in winter, whilst in spring many other species such as Coot, Collared Pratincole, Lapwing, Black-winged Stilt, Avocet, European Spoonbill, Purple Heron, numerous terns and Cattle Egrets are all attracted by the abundance of food. It is impossible to talk of the rarities that inhabit Doñana without referring to two top predators of the Mediterranean landscape, the Spanish Imperial Eagle and the Iberian Lynx, two of the most threatened vertebrates in the world and both endemic to the Iberian Peninsula. An average of 15-16 pairs of Spanish Imperial Eagle bred in the Doñana region up to the mid-twentieth century. However, from 1992 onwards the mortality rates of the species shot up quickly, above all DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
51
PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND PUBLIC FACILITIES Doñana Natural Space • Date declared. National Park: 28 October 1969; Natural Park: 28 July 1989. Doñana Natural Space (administrative structure that comprises the National and Natural Parks): 27 October 1999. • Surface area. National Park: 54,252 ha; Natural Park: 53,835 ha. • Provinces. National Park: Huelva and Seville; Natural park: Huelva, Seville and Cádiz. • Municipalities. National Park, HUELVA: Almonte, Hinojos; SEVILLE: Aznalcázar, La Puebla del Rio. Natural Park, CÁDIZ: Sanlúcar de Barrameda; HUELVA: Almonte, Hinojos, Lucena del Puerto, Moguer, Palos de la Frontera; SEVILLE: Aznalcázar, Isla Mayor, Pilas, La Puebla del Río, Villamanrique de la Condesa. • ECST accreditation. 2006 • Other types of protection. National Park: Biosphere Reserve, Ramsar Site, Special Protection Area for Birds, Site of Community Importance and World Heritage Site. Natural Park: Biosphere Reserve, Ramsar Site, Special Protection Area for Birds, Site of Community Importance. • Contact details Natural Space offices: – El Acebuche 21760 Matalascañas (Huelva) Tel.: 959 43 96 27 – C/Sevilla, 33, 1º 21730 Almonte (Huelva) Tel.: 959 43 95 67 – Bajo de Guía Centre Avda. de Bajo de Guía, s/n 11540 Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz) Tel.: 956 38 64 10 en.donana.cma@juntadeandalucia.es Go to Ventana del Visitante at: www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente/ http://reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es/parques/donana/index.htm vISITOR FACILITIES FÁBRICA DE HIELO VISITOR CENTRE This centre is located in the fisherman’s quarter of Bajo de Guía in Sanlúcar de Barrameda in a restored building that was once headquarters of the local fisherman’s guild and a factory for making ice. On the first floor there is an exhibition on the significance of the Doñana Natural Space and on the second floor an exhibition on the history of the protected area and the lower 52
reaches of the Guadalquivir valley, with details of the traditional uses and products of the Doñana region and a chronological tour of its history and territory. • Location and contact details. Avda. de Bajo de Guía, s/n. Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 38 65 77 • Services. Exhibition, audiovisual presentations, shop and terrace-viewpoint. • Opening times. All year round. NovemberApril: 09-19; May, June, September and October: 09-20; July and August: 09-21. • Access for people with reduced mobility
JOSÉ ANTONIO VALVERDE VISITOR CENTRE Located in the heart of the marshes in the municipality of Aznalcázar, this visitor centre has been designed to resemble one of the typical chozas or huts that were once common in the marshes. It is far from any of the local villages and overlooks a restored lake and can only be reached along dirt tracks, such that at certain times of years visitors should check that the tracks are passable. Nevertheless, it is a magnificent spot for observing water birds and also boasts a large exhibition about the ecosystem of the marshes and the way in
park and the how local people have traditionally exploited the natural resources of the area. • Location and contact details. El Rocío-Matalascañas road, km 12. Almonte (Huelva). Tel.: 959 43 96 29 • Services. Exhibition, audiovisual and conference rooms, rest-room, waymarked paths, interpretation routes, guided visits, reservation of activities, shop, café and picnic spot. • Opening times. All year round. Winter: 08-15 and 16-19; summer: 08-15 and 16-21. • Access for people with reduced mobility LA ROCINA VISITOR CENTRE This centre is close to the road linking the village of El Rocío with the town of Matalascañas and its exhibitions illustrate the chozas, the traditional huts of the marshes, and the story behind the famous El Rocío pilgrimage. As well, visitors will find information about the flora and fauna of the protected area. • Location and contact details. El Rocío-Matalascañas road, 1 km from El Rocío). Almonte (Huelva). Tel.: 959 43 95 69 • Services. Audiovisual room, waymarked path, car park. • Opening times. All year round. 09-15 and 1619; 16 June to 15 September: 09-15.
BAJO DE GUÍA VISITOR CENTRE Located in the Bajo de Guía quarter of Sanlúcar de Barrameda, this centre offers visitors a broad range of educational material about wetlands in general and the wetlands of the province of Cádiz in particular. In the top floor of the building there is an exhibition about the town of Sanlúcar de Barrameda itself. • Location and contact details. Avda. de Bajo de Guía, s/n. Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 38 09 22 • Services. Exhibition, audiovisual presentations, shop. • Opening times. All year round. October-May: 10-14; Easter week, public holidays and the eve of public holidays, also open in the afternoon 16-18; June-September: 10-14 and 18-20. Mondays closed. • Access for people with reduced mobility
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
which the territory has been transformed by human activity. • Location and contact details. Aznalcázar (Seville). Tel.: 671 56 41 45 • Services. Exhibition, audiovisual and conference room, bird observation points, shop and cafe. • Opening times. All year round. October-May: 10-18; June-September: 10-20. • Access for people with reduced mobility EL ACEBUCHE VISITOR CENTRE Visitors to this visitor centre (municipality of Almonte) can watch live video feeds of the Iberian Lynx from the nearby captive breeding centre. As well, El Acebuche also has an exhibition on the importance of the marshes in the conservation of migratory birds, and provides an introduction to the many ecosystems present in the
PALACIO DEL ACEBRÓN VISITOR CENTRE Located in the heart of the Doñana Natural Space, this visitor centre has been installed in a mansion-palace dating from the mid-twentieth century. Its exhibition Doñana and Man offers visitors the chance to find out more about various aspects of the relationship between the inhabitants of the marshes and their environment. This exhibition also touches on the evolution of other aspects of the territory such as the new agricultural practices and tourism, as well as cultural and religious traditions. • Location and contact details. El Rocío-Matalascañas road (around 7 km from El Rocío). Almonte (Huelva). Tel.: 671 59 31 38 • Services. Exhibition and audiovisual rooms. • Opening times. All year round. 09-15 and 1619; 16 June to 15 September: 09-15. • Access for people with reduced mobility LOS CENTENALES VISITOR CENTRE Located on the outskirts of the town of Hinojos, next to the town park of Los Centenales, this centre provides an overview of the forest landscapes of Doñana — the pine forests and
the wood pastures — and the ecosystems of the marshlands. • Location and contact details. Hinojos-Almonte road (A-484), Hinojos (Huelva). Tel.: 959 439 620 • Services. Exhibition rooms, audiovisual display. • Opening times. All year round. OctoberMarch: 10-15 and 16-19; April-September: 1015 and 16-20. • Access for people with reduced mobility RECREATIONAL FACILITIES PICNIC SITES • El Arrayán, in Hinojos (Huelva). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Mazagón, in Moguer (Huelva). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Pinar de la Algaida, in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz). PAThS AND TRAILS A 25-km network of waymarked paths exists in the protected area, of which the following are some of the best for exploring the area: • Cerro del Águila. This path begins around 10 km from Sanlúcar de Barrameda on the road towards agricultural colony of La Algaida. The path runs through a forest whose pines and interesting understorey of Lentiscs, Savins and other Mediterranean shrubs help stabilise the coastal dunes. It begins next to the hide overlooking La Laguna de Tarelo. Length: 5.6 km. Time: 2 h 30 min. • Charco de la Boca. A route along the right bank of a stream (Arroyo de La Rocina), where there are four hides for birdwatchers. It begins at La Rocina Visitor Centre. Length: 3.5 km. Time: 1 h 30 min-2 h. Access for people with reduced mobility. • Charco del Acebrón. This path circumnavigates an area where the Arroyo de La Rocina widens out and walkers will be able to appreciate the great biological diversity of the gallery woodland. The path also passes through pine and Cork Oak woodland. Length: 1.5 km. Time: 1 h-1 h 30 min. Access for people with reduced mobility. • Laguna del Acebuche. A walk along the southern shore of a lagoon that was restored in the 1980s and which passes by seven hides giving excellent views of the water birds present. This lagoon is an important breeding and resting point for birds. The path starts at El Acebuche Visitor Centre. Length: 1.5 km. Time: 1-2 h. Access for people with reduced mobility.
• Dune path. At the edge of the National Park next to the tourist enclave of Matalascañas, this path runs through the first embryonic line of dunes and the main dune front, before heading for a corral where stands of Umbrella Pine and Mediterranean scrub grow. It also reaches an excellent vantage point over the beach and dunes. This circuit can also be used to reach the beach. Length: 1.5 km. Time: 1h-1 h 30 min. OThER FACILITIES HIDES Aside from the hides and observation points already mentioned that visitors will come across along the walks and the visitor centres, it is worth highlighting the hide overlooking the la-
goon of Tarelo at the entrance to the La Algaida pinewoods in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz). CYCLE-PATHS There are currently two cycle paths in the Doñana Natural Space and a further two are planned for the near future. Cyclists can use them to ride from Matalascañas to Mazagón, through La Algaida pine forest (Sanlúcar de Barrameda) or through the Hinojos pinewoods. GUIDED vISIT SERvICES • Route through the interior of the protected area (Acebuche-La Plancha-Acebuche). This 79-km route in 4WD is run by the Sociedad Cooperativa Andaluza Marismas del Rocío.
Moguer
Tel.: 959 43 04 32 / 959 43 04 51 www.donanavisitas.es • River trip from Sanlúcar de BarramedaGuadalquivir-Doñana. Cruise along the Guadalquivir starting in Bajo de Guía (Sanlúcar de Barrameda), organised by the company Cristóbal Anillo, S. L. Tel.: 956 36 38 13 www.visitasdonana.com • As well, guided routes can be organised by any of the private companies working in Doñana, many of which are included in this guide book. Possible visits include excursions to Coto del Rey-Marismas, the Moguer trail and the protected areas of Arroyo de La Rocina, El Abalario-Asperillo and La Algaida.
Hinojos
7 Almonte
Villamanrique de la Condesa
6 El Rocío
5
Isla Mayor A-494
3 4
A-483
Matalascañas 1
Fábrica de Hielo Visitor Centre
2
Bajo de Guía Visitor Centre
3
José Antonio Valverde Visitor Centre
4
El Acebuche Visitor Centre
5
La Rocina Visitor Centre
6
Palacio del Acebrón Visitor Centre
7
Los Centenales Visitor Centre
Trebujena
Hides
0
5
10
15
km
1 Sanlúcar de Barrameda
2
1 47 A-
A-471
DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
53
From left to right: marshes and town of El Rocío; aerial view of the mouth of the river Guadalquivir at Sanlúcar de Barrameda; dawn in Umbrella Pine woodland.
due to adults being killed by poisoning. The number of pairs fell to just half and scientists raised the alarm, voicing their fears that the species was in danger of becoming extinct. Fortunately, since then the recovery plan set up in 2006 has helped halt this decline and the number of chicks born in Doñana has increased substantially; as well, the number of adult breeding pairs is once again set to reach a minimum of 10-12 pairs. The situation of the Iberian Lynx is somewhat more complex. At the beginning of the century in Doñana this carnivore was systematically hunted, with up to seven lynx being shot on occasions in just one day! Furthermore, the alteration of this feline’s main habitat in recent decades and, above all, the fall in rabbit numbers due to disease has reduced the world population of this lynx — the most threatened feline in the world — to less than 300 animals, shared between Doñana and the eastern Sierra Morena. According to estimates Doñana is home to less than 40 wild lynx, but in a captive breeding centre kittens are being born that will be reintroduced into the former territories of the species. The new Doñana Whilst the ecological framework of Doñana is more or less secure under the umbrella of the protected areas, pressure from the outside is not diminishing and every now and again questionable projects, for example the coastal road from Huelva to Cádiz cutting through protected landscapes and the Costa Doñana tourist complex of 20,000 hotel beds on top of the park’s main aquifer, raise their heads. In 1992 the Andalusian autonomous government, with the help of an international committee of experts, helped resolve these tensions by creating a sustainable development plan for the Doñana region, an initiative that to date has led to many millions of euros of new investment aimed at improving infrastructures and laying the basis for a new type of progress. This is the origin of the new Doñana, which will involve necessarily the creation of a new local identity since Doñana is shared between three provinces — Huelva, Seville and Cádiz — and the towns 54
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
of the area have always been somewhat awkwardly interconnected. Today, the Doñana comarca or region as such is still emerging and to date agglutinates in a surface area of close on 300,000 ha a total of 14 municipalities inhabited by just over 165,000 people. In light of the mining accident at Aznalcóllar in 1998 that threatened some of Doñana’s most ecologically important areas, a largescale hydrological restructuring is being carried out that aims to restore the former natural dynamics of the marshlands. Above all, the idea is to remove all the physical barriers that have been constructed over the years and thus guarantee that the streams and main branches of the rivers will once again flood the Doñana marshes with good-quality water. It seems that a formula has been found that ensures both the preservation of Doñana’s unique natural sites and species and the economic growth of the villages and towns of the region. Otherwise, for there is nowhere else in the whole of Spain where this has occurred, there is no way to explain how, despite all the accumulated tensions, almost 50 kilometres of virgin coastline have been preserved intact. This vast stretch of coast includes areas that lie outside the protected areas, for example around the beach enclave of Matalascañas, where today only low impact alternative tourist facilities such as the Parque Dunar, the Marine World Museum and an ecological golf course are being contemplated. At the same time, the intensive farming that requires vast amounts of water and chemical fertilisers are gradually giving way to burgeoning ecological agriculture. Nature tourism is also gaining ground, not only inside the protected areas (which receive 400,000 visitors annually), but also in many interesting sites in the area surrounding Doñana. The threats hanging over Doñana have not disappeared, although the impact of global climate change is now more of a worry than the possible construction of a road or an unsustainable holiday complex; today the hope exits that the some of the characteristic elements of the ‘new’ Doñana will bring back a spirit of optimism to the region.
HACIENDA OLONTIGI The town of Aznalcázar lies about 27 km from Seville, in the southern sector of the region of El Aljarafe, a goodly part of which lies within the freshwater wetlands of the lower reaches of the river Guadalquivir, and encompasses some of Doñana’s most emblematic landscapes. Located in the heart of this evocative marshland ecosystem, Hacienda Olontigi is a complex of self-catering rural accommodation that takes its name from the Celtiberian epithet for Aznalcázar, which was later adopted by the Romans. The long and complex history of the region is also evidenced by the logo of the establishment — an elephant depicted on a Cathaginian coin, which was found in the vicinity of the village. Hacienda Olontigi was originally a series of livestock corrals, which have been converted to provide five self-contained cottages, containing a total of 15 bedrooms; guests can rent either a room or a whole house. Each house possesses a fully equipped kitchen Accommodation type Superior self-catering accommodation Visitor services and activities • Information about the Doñana protected area. • Contact with companies offering activity tourism in the area (mountain biking, walking, guided 4WD routes, horse trekking, birdwatching itineraries, etc.). • Sale of local produce and craftwork. • Guide dogs are welcome.
and a lounge with an fireplace, and is decorated in typical Andalusian fashion. The five houses are
Location Aznalcázar (Seville) C/ Ventorro, 23 Coordinates: 6º 14’ 49’’ N, 37º 18’ 19’’W
arranged around a central courtyard containing a swimming pool and gardens, for the sole use of guests, as well as a multi-purpose room that also serves as a restaurant, where guests can sample dishes typical of the region. Guests are provided with a wide range of information about the surrounding area, including maps, as well as details of companies that offer activity tourism in the region. Among a number of quality accreditations, Hacienda Olontigi has been awarded the Doñana 21 Brand, indicating the commitment of the company both to the protected area and to responsible environmental practices in the day-to-day running of the establishment. Future plans include the creation of a library dedicated to the Doñana protected area, and the promotion and sale of local gastronomic and artisan products.
• Communal multi-purpose room • Library • Wi-Fi • Each house comprises 3 separate ensuite bedrooms, lounge with a fireplace, fully equipped kitchen and TV in the rooms • Access to the communal areas and one of the houses is provided for people with limited mobility
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14001 • Doñana 21 Brand • Park Information Point
Contact details Tel.: 955 75 19 76 reservas@olont.com www.olont.com Capacity 5 houses, 15 rooms in total, sleeping 33
Languages English and French
Facilities • Swimming pool • Landscaped central courtyard
Open All year round Prices Double room (with breakfast): 70 €/night DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
55
CÁMPING LA ALDEA This state-of-the-art campsite, covering more than 58,000 square metres, is located just outside the village of El Rocío — the acknowledged nerve centre of the Doñana Protected Area. Both plots for camping and free-standing cabins are available, with the communal services including a swimming pool, cafeteriacum-bar, restaurant, a function room and a small supermarket. During the popular religious festival of El Rocío, the campsite also offers stabling for the many horses involved. In addition to the 246 plots suitable for tents, motor homes and caravans, a selection of cabins of different types and capacities is also available, some of which have been adapted for use by people with limited mobility. Some of these are small wooden chalets, while others are faithful reproductions of the typical chozas (shepherds’ huts) of the Doñana marshes, complete with white walls and roofs thatched with heather. Accommodation type Class 1 campsite visitor services and activities • Information about the region. • The campsite can put guests in contact with companies offering activity tourism (walking, horse trekking, 4WD routes, etc.). • Sale of local produce and artisan goods. • Pets are welcome, but only on the plots, not in the cabins.
All, however, are equipped with everything you might need to enjoy a comfortable stay in the country. On arrival, Cámping La Aldea provides guests with a comprehensive dossier of practical informa-
Location El Rocío (Huelva) El Rocío road, km 25 Coordinates: 37º 14’ 28’’ N, 6º 49’ 11.64’’ W Capacity • 69 cabins, sleeps 300 • 246 plots, sleeps 740 • 61-cover restaurant • 93-cover bar-cafeteria • Function room, 274 people Facilities • Cafeteria, restaurant • Swimming pool • Function room
tion about the region (public amenities, sites of interest, opening times, maps, etc.), a leaflet about good environmental practice and a plan of the campsite itself.
• Supermarket • Cloakrooms, washrooms, washing machines and tumble-dryers • Wi-Fi (must be paid for) available throughout the site • Cabins with TV, veranda and parking; some with fully equipped kitchens • 2 cabins modified so as to be suitable for people with limited mobility Open All year round Prices • Camping plot (2 adults + tent/caravan + car + electricity): 32 €/night • Cabin (sleeps 2): 64 €/night • Choza (sleeps 5): 150 €/night
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14001 • Doñana 21 Brand • Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 959 44 26 77 info@campinglaaldea.com www.campinglaaldea.com
Languages English and French 56
• Sports court • Stables • Children’s playground
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
DISCOVERING DOÑANA In the 1990s the wildlife enthusiasts Marina and Claudio Manetti were captivated by Andalusia, particularly Doñana, and so decided to leave their lives in Italy and move to the village of El Rocío. Because they wanted to share with others their fascination for the park, they founded Discovering Doñana, with the intention of helping visitors to get to know Doñana ‘from the inside out’ Today José Antonio Sánchez has taken up the reins of the company and with the assistance of a group of specialist guides offers his experience to travellers attracted by the natural wealth of Doñana. Whether visitors simply wish to spend a few days enjoying the park’s wildlife or have more specialised requirements, such as birdwatching, photography or botany, Discovering Doñana will provide both a guide and an activity to meet their needs. Each client, either individually or in a small group, will have at their disposal both a vehicle and a drivervisitor services and activities • Tailor-made tours. Discovering Doñana designs each route according to the needs of its clients: either general interpretation of Doñana’s heritage or specialised itineraries for the observation of birds, plants and insects, for photography, etc. All tours take place in a 4WD vehicle, with the provision of high-quality binoculars, telescopes and field guides, taking as much time as is necessary for each activity.
cum-guide for as long as they need. Equipped with the best field guides, binoculars and telescopes, visitors will have the opportunity to get to know Doñana in the company of the best possible guide. In addition, the company can arrange transfers for visitors from airports or hotels, and can provide advice as to suitable accommodation in the area. With the desire
Discovering Doñana will carry out an assessment of the accommodation and activity options available in the area, as well as devising tailor-made itineraries, free of charge.
Open All year round Official endorsements Park Information Point
to develop a truly sustainable form of tourism, Discovering Doñana conducts all its activities with a conscientious respect for the environment. In addition to its customary routes, the company will shortly start to organise other activities, specifically tailored to persons with special needs and learning disorders. Contact details C/ Águila imperial, 150 (postal address only) 21750 El Rocío (Huelva) Tel.: 959 44 24 66 / 620 96 43 69 info@discoveringdonana.com www.discoveringdonana.com
Material/equipment provided • Binoculars for each participant • Telescopes • Field guides • Maps • Holidays in El Rocío. The company also offers its services to anyone who wishes to spend a few days in El Rocío.
Languages English and German DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
57
DOÑANA NATURE One of the best ways of enjoying all of the many seasonally changing nuances of Doñana Natural Space and its surroundings is to contact Doñana Nature and ask them to organise a tailor-made excursion in the north of this fabulous protected area. The company’s philosophy ensures that organised groups are small, thereby guaranteeing plenty of personal attention and that each outing becomes a true adventure. It is the group who decides whether it wants to visit and study Doñana’s varied ecosystems, or whether it wants to concentrate on birdwatching. The equipment the company’s guides have with them at all times guarantees that no one misses out on the least detail of the wildlife that groups come across. The specialist guides help visitors to identify some of the region’s most typical birds by their song or interpret mammal tracks left in the mud and sand. These small-group guided walks are an excellent way of discovering local wildlife, in particular the true stars visitor services and activities • 4WD routes. Visitors can choose between half-day or whole-day excursions, or even trips lasting a number of days, in a 4WD with a capacity of up to four people. This service is also provided for people on their own. The departure point is always El Rocío.
of Doñana, the birds. Visitors will get the chance to see eye-catching birds such as Greater Flamingoes, Eurasian Spoonbills, Purple Swamphen, herons and many other wetland species. For those who also want to immortalise their visits on film, photographic walks are the best option. Guides will take visitors to the best places in Doñana for photographing wildlife and, above all, its wetland birds. And for those who are just beginners, Doñana Nature offers its clients photographic courses run by a specialist company right in the heart of the park. Doñana Nature also caters for larger groups simply looking to spend a relaxing day in the countryside and offers the possibility of being taken around all the
• Photographic courses. Doñana Nature also offers visitors the chance to learn how to photograph flora and fauna in the wild. Using a camera in such a diverse and spectacular area is a real treat!
best known parts of the park, with a stop at a former ranger’s house near Palacio del Rey and a open-air brunch prepared by a local caterer’s included in the price.
Languages English Open All year round
Contact details C/ Las Carretas, 10 El Rocío (Huelva) Tel.: 959 44 21 60 / 630 97 82 16 info@donana-nature.com www.donana-nature.com
• Excursion with brunch included. For groups of 12 or more, Doñana Nature offers a combination of wildlife and gastronomy. The brunch is organised by a caterer’s and is served in a former ranger’s house near Palacio del Rey. 58
Material/equipment provided • Binoculars (one pair between two) • Telescope (one between seven) • Educational material for schools
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Doñana 21 Brand
DOÑANA RESERVAS In 2007 two companies, Doñana Ecuestre and Marismas de Doñana, each with almost 20 years of experience in nature tourism in the Doñana Natural Space, decided to join forces and create a new company, Doñana Reservas, that would offer improved services to their clients. Their main activity consists of organising guided visits within the Doñana Natural Space that provide visitors with chance to get to know two of Doñana’s most important ecosystems, the Mediterranean forest and the marshes, during excursions into El Coto del Rey and La Marisma Norte, two of the best loved areas of Doñana. Visitors are driven in 4WD vehicles through areas of the Natural Space alive with large mammals such as Red and Fallow Deer and Wild Boar, which share habitat with the almost 200 species of bird that at one time or another in the year — but above all on passage and in winter — stop in at the marshes. The guided routes also pass through the habitat of the visitor services and activities • 4WD routes. These routes visit the northern part of Doñana in a trip that lasts fours hours and covers almost 40 km of terrain, passing through some of the park’s principal habitats and offering the chance to enjoy activities such as birdwatching.
Iberian Lynx, the mammalian jewel in Doñana’s crown that the occasional lucky group guided by Doñana Reservas has actually managed to spot. The main stop on the tour, lasting around 20 minutes, is at the José Antonio Valverde Visitor Centre, one of the Natural Space’s reception centres, and named after the naturalist whose efforts were of such vital importance in the protection of Doñana. This centre provides one of the best views over the marshes and a good opportunity to indulge in a spot of birdwatching. With advice from the specialist guide, as well as a little help from a pair of binoculars, a telescope or a series of illustrations, visitors will be able to identify some of Doñana’s most characteristic species of birds. Visitors looking for a more restful activity might choose the option offered by Doñana Reservas that combines a shorter route in vehicle and a ride in a horse-drawn carriage, during which visitors are offered a selection of typical local tapas.
• Horse-riding routes. This is the speciality of Doñana Ecuestre, one of the two companies that merged to form Doñana Reservas. This activity can be booked for just an hour or for a whole day, during which riders visit the area surrounding the Natural Space.
Besides aiming to raise awareness amongst clients regarding the importance of preserving natural areas such as Doñana, the company is also actively involved in the defence of the environment and provides information on how to collaborate with NGOs such as the World Wildlife Fund and BirdLife International that are involved in the protection of the Natural Space and its birds.
small exhibition about the park and also sells local rice, honey, oil and horse-riding equipment, amongst other products. • Litoral de Doñana-Torre Almenara Museum. It is well-worth visiting this fascinating museum that is located right
Material/equipment provided • Six large 4WD vehicles with seats for over 100 • Binoculars (one pair between two) • Telescope (one in each vehicle) • Guides to the local fauna in English, French, German and Portuguese Languages English Open All year round Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point
• Horse-drawn carriages. Those who are looking for a more relaxing way of spending their time can opt for this traditional form of transport, which can also be combined with a trip in a 4WD. • Exhibition and shop. In their reception point in El Rocío, the company has set up a
on the beach in the holiday enclave of Matalascañas; displays show how the dunes and beaches were formed and describe the animals and plants that live there. As well, there is also a small enclosure with a number of Spur-thighed Tortoises in captivity.
Contact details Avda. de La Canaliega s/n 21750 El Rocío (Huelva) Tel.: 959 44 24 74 info@donanareservas.com www.donanareservas.com
DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
59
SOCIEDAD COOPERATIVA MARISMAS DEL ROCÍO Doñana was officially declared a National Park in 1969 and several local people, who were already working in the reserve in various guises such as collecting pine nuts, bee-keeping or in forestry, decided to form a business to provide services for the visitors who started to arrive. In 1980, seven of these workers formed the Sociedad Cooperativa Marismas del Rocío (El Rocío Marshes Cooperative Society) with the help of and in consultation with Icona (the Spanish equivalent of the Forestry Commission and the reserve managers at that time) and Almonte Town Hall (Huelva). Following a recruitment programme, they then became the first park guides. Few visitors came at first, particularly since Doñana was only really known among birdwatchers, many of whom were foreigners. The cooperative’s founders persisted, however, despite having to mortgage their homes to raise funds for the first tourist vehicles! Time has passed and today some 50,000 visivisitor services and activities • Guided 4WD routes. The Sociedad Cooperativa Marismas del Rocío vehicles, the only ones permitted into the heart of Doñana, leave from the visitors’ centre at El Acebuche. Twice-daily departures leave morning and afternoon and follow a single, almost circular 70-km route for four hours, with the most spectacular part being the run down the largest remaining untouched beach in Spain.
tors now visit the National Park every year with Marismas del Rocío, and this growth in demand has logically also obliged the cooperative to grow and increase its numbers accordingly. Today’s guides are now specialised to provide better service to both Spanish and foreign visitors (the latter forming almost 10 % of the total).
• Gifts and bookshop. Local crafts from the Doñana area and books relating to the National Park and wildlife in general are available.
Currently, among the many companies dedicated to wildlife tourism in the Doñana area, Marismas del Rocío is the only one which has an administrative concession to undertake vehicular routes within the National Park. The company boasts a fleet of 11 special 4WD vehicles — robust, converted buses — which have now become part of the Doñana landscape. Each is driven by an expert guide who explains the principal characteristics of the different ecosystems traversed by the route: dunes, beach, riverbank, woodland, scrub and marshland. A wide variety of animals such as Red and Fallow Deer, Wild Boar, Spanish Imperial Eagle and other raptors, and a large variety of waterbirds, may be encountered during the visits, either while on the move or during the periodic stops. The start and finish of these trips is El Acebuche, Doñana Natural Space’s main visitor centre, located 13 km south of El Rocío, in the Matalascañas direction.
Material/equipment provided • Eleven 4WD vehicles (with four kept in reserve), with capacity for up to 20 passengers per vehicle
Languages English and Dutch (routes) English, Dutch, German and Portuguese (information) Open All year round, except during the El Rocío festival Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14001 • Doñana 21 Brand • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information point Contact details Centro de Visitantes El Acebuche Road A-483, km 37.5 (between El Rocío and Matalascañas) Tel.: 959 43 04 32 info@donanavisitas.es www.donanavisitas.es
• Visit to El Acebuche Visitor Centre. In addition to the series of bird hides in the centre’s surroundings, live images from the nearby Iberian Lynx captive breeding programme can be watched on screens. 60
• Ecological produce sales. The café of El Acebuche offers seasonal ecologically produced goods, such as asparagus, strawberries or honey, as well as typical local dishes.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
• Information leaflet, with recommendations for the visit and silhouettes of the most frequently observed fauna in the park • Binoculars (available for hire)
INCENTIVOS DOÑANA More companies than ever are offering their workers motivation courses based around leisure activities, and Incentivos Doñana was started by Miguel Campos in the early 1990s to attend to this growing demand. Located in the town of El Rocío in Doñana Natural Space, the surroundings clearly offer the potential for a highly varied and attractive range of activities in a superb natural setting. Although companies may be its principal clients, Incentivos Doñana also organise tailor-made routes for groups. The experience gaining during years of work with companies is their greatest strength as the around 50 companies who have had the pleasure can testify. Indeed, most come back for more. A minimum group size of twenty is required, with transfers in coaches to and from hotels after the day’s excursions. Apart from the pre-designed activities, groups also have the option to create their own activities. Four-wheel drive routes across the Guadalquivir
marshes, routes along the Doñana beach or even hotair balloon trips are some examples of the activities requested, although other more curious demands have been made. In one such case, Miguel Campos had to contact the owner of some strawberry fields to give a talk to visitors before a strawberry-picking session. This type of activity is more typical of foreign visitors who want to ‘get their hands dirty’.
Incentivos Doñana has recently started up a new speciality: the organisation of activities for people with reduced mobility. The first trip involved a group of blind children, who were led through the countryside on a horse-drawn carriage and then rode horses on one of the estates in El Rocío. Following the success of this initiative, many more are sure to be planned.
Visitor services and activities • 4WD routes. These routes are made through various parts of the Doñana area, but particularly aim to explore the park’s ecosystems including the Guadalquivir marshes and Doñana beach. Some of the itineraries finish in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, an ancient city and key sea port for Christopher Columbus’ journeys.
• Agrotourism. Visits to a strawberry farm. • Activities for people with mobility or learning difficulties. This is a new product aimed at both adults and children who have mobility or learning difficulties.
Open All year round (except during the El Rocío festival week)
• Tailor-made routes. Routes can be designed around what the group wants to see and where it wants to go. • El Camino de El Rocío. This activity aims to recreate the El Rocío romería (pilgrimage across the park) at any time of the year: it is thus not necessary to wait until May to experience this pilgrimage.
Material/equipment provided • Coaches • Binoculars (for hire in the National Park)
Contact details C/ Mesón, 25 (postal address only; no office) 21870 Escacena del Campo (Huelva) Tel.: 959 42 35 11 / 959 42 30 20 / 608 50 83 21 incentivosdonana@incentivosdonana.net www.incentivosdonana.net
Languages A translator can be provided for every group
Official endorsements Park Information Point (in progress)
DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
61
CASA RURAL LOS PINOS The self-contained apartments of Los Pinos are located in Hinojos, in the El Condado region of Huelva. A good part of this municipality lies within the Doñana protected area and the people of these seasonally flooded lands pride themselves on their deeprooted marshland customs and traditional way of life. At the moment, the accommodation offered by Los Pinos consists of four newly built two-storey apartments, each of which contains two bedrooms, a fully equipped kitchen and air conditioning, and is able to sleep a maximum of five people. As the complex is in the process of expansion, more units will be available shortly. The establishment provides its guests with information about Doñana and can also acquaint them with the full range of active tourism companies operating in the region. In addition, Los Pinos offers a variety of equestrian activities, such as excursions through the park in horse-drawn carriages. Accommodation type Simple self-catering accommodation visitor services and activities • Information about the protected area. • Contact with companies offering activity tourism in the area (4WD itineraries, birdwatching routes). • Mountain-bike hire. • Excursions in horse-drawn carriages around Doñana. • Picnics. • Pets are welcome.
Because Los Pinos has received the Andalusia Natural Park Brand accreditation, it is committed to continually improving its performance, both socially and environmentally. It has already been fitted with solar panels, which heat the water, and imminent improvements include the modification of all existing and fu-
Location Hinojos (Huelva) Hinojos to Almonte road, km 1 Coordinates: 37º 17’ 13’’ N, 6º 23’ 03’’W Capacity 4 apartments, sleeping 16
Languages English and Portuguese
ture apartments so as to provide access for people with limited mobility, as well as adopting measures to increase their energy efficiency. Los Pinos is also trying to develop new forms of equestrian tourism, as well as promoting the sale of locally produced merchandise — principally saddlery and olive oils.
Facilities • Dining room for guests • Wi-Fi • Each apartment contains two double rooms, a fully equipped kitchen and TV • Horses can be stabled in the grounds
• The ground floor of one of the apartments is suitable for people with limited mobility • One of the horse-drawn carriages has been modified for use by people with limited mobility Open All year round Prices 30 €/person/day Official endorsements Andalusia Natural Park Brand Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 959 45 95 00 / 629 84 60 94 / 615 74 47 53 reservas@casaslospinos.es www.casaslospinos.es
62
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
PLATALEA After several years working in environmental and cultural education, in 2006 Manuel Mojarro and Diego Vázquez decided to start their own business. Their company — Platalea — is named after one of the most eye-catching and characteristic birds of Doñana, the Eurasian Spoonbill (Platalea leucorodia). Their broad experience in the environmental sector has allowed these partners to design a very interesting range of activities, aimed at anyone keen to discover more about the natural heritage of Doñana. Schools make up a large part of their clientele, and with the objective of making activities more interesting to children, guides ensure that their explanations are entertaining, but also encourage students to discover the answers to the questions that arise for themselves. All of the various itineraries they offer are carried out on foot, in groups of no more than 25 children per guide. visitor services and activities • Itineraries for schools. Visits to the coastal area of El Asperillo, the Interpretation Centres of La Rocina and El Acebrón, the lagoons of Ribetehilos, the pinewoods of Hinojos and the village of El Rocío, all in the Doñana protected area. Maximum 25 children per guide.
Recently Platalea has successfully inaugurated two projects. One is the foundation of Huelva’s first nature-lovers’ shop, which is located in their head-
• Environmental education workshops. These are aimed at school groups and teach students about the habitats and wildlife present in the various protected areas in the province of Huelva, as well as the environmental problems that affect the region.
quarters in the provincial capital. Among the merchandise on offer are books, equipment for field naturalists, organic produce and fair-trade goods. The second new development is a portable digital planetarium, which can be transported to wherever it is needed. Their most unusual job to date was a lecture in which they explained how birds orient themselves during migration by ‘reading’ the heavens given at El Acebuche Visitor Centre in the Doñana Natural Space in October 2009 to celebrate World Bird Day. Platalea also has two other projects planned. The first consists of organising a series of talks and presentations of books about wildlife at their headquarters, in association with the ‘Club de Amigos de la Naturaleza y el Patrimonio’ (Friends of Wildlife and Heritage). The second is the installation of recycling points for used batteries and domestic oils in their shop in Huelva.
• Literary workshops and animated activities. Participants in these workshops will step into the shoes of the characters of the adventure tales and stories that they perform. Material/equipment provided • Binoculars • Telescopes • Leaflets about the Doñana protected area • For the educational programmes, material provided by local authorities Languages English and German Open All year round Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14001 • Park Information Point
• Birdwatching itineraries. Several different itineraries led by an expert guide designed to acquaint visitors with the diverse bird communities that are present in the region at different times of year.
• Guided routes to learn about the historic and cultural heritage of the region. In addition to its wildlife interest, the province of Huelva possesses many historical attractions that are worth a visit.
Contact details C/ Pinta, 4 21003 Huelva Tel.: 959 26 07 08 / 676 89 46 74 info@platalea.com www.platalea.com DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
63
GRAN HOTEL DEL COTO Gran Hotel del Coto is a modern building located in Matalascañas, a well-known tourist enclave situated in the coastal zone of the Doñana protected area. The 466-room complex can accommodate around a thousand guests, with on-site services ranging from shops and a hairdressing salon to meeting rooms, sports facilities, swimming pools and a solarium, as well as extensive gardens overlooking the coast and a restaurant where guests can sample a wide range of local dishes. Rooms are furnished in a simple, functional manner, using pale colours and a minimalist style, in keeping with the light-filled environs of this hotel, designed make guests feel relaxed and at ease. The décor of both the rooms and the communal areas celebrates the diverse flora and fauna of Doñana, a theme that is omnipresent in the promotional material of the establishment, as well as in the information provided about the protected area. Accommodation type Four-star hotel visitor services and activities • Information about the park (leaflets, maps, etc.). • Contact with companies offering active tourism in the area. • Sale of local merchandise. • Traditional cuisine.
The hotel collaborates in the sustainable development of the region by providing employment for local people and by making some of its facilities available to neighbourhood associations, as well as to volunteers carrying out conservation tasks in the park. In the future the Gran Hotel del Coto intends to adapt more of its rooms for use by people with limited
Location Matalascañas (Huelva) Sector D, Segunda Fase Coordinates: 36º 59’ N, 6º 31’W
mobility, and hopes to set up an exhibit dedicated to Doñana, attain the official Park Information Point accreditation and increase its level of sustainability by installing equipment to conserve both water and energy. There are also plans afoot to devote more space to the promotion and sale of organic produce and traditional artisan goods from the region.
• 3 swimming pools (one of which is suitable for small children) • Tennis courts • Solarium
Languages English, French, German, Swedish and Catalan • Communal areas and some rooms adapted for people with limited mobility • TV, telephone, minibar, safe deposit box and internet connection in the rooms Open All year round (but closed from the beginning of January to mid-February) Capacity • 466 rooms, sleeping 932 • 800-cover restaurant Facilities • Restaurant, bar and cafeteria • Gym 64
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
• Conference and meeting rooms • Wi-Fi • Laundry service • Shops • Hairdressing salon • Garden • Car park
Prices Double room (with breakfast): 90 €/night Contact details Tel.: 959 44 00 17 dirección@granhoteldelcoto.com www.granhoteldelcoto.com
CAÑADA DE LOS PÁJAROS Almost 25 years ago, a biologist couple, Plácido and Maribel, decided to fulfil their dream of living in the countryside and enjoying their passion: birds. A few kilometres from La Puebla del Río in Seville Province they found some land — in reality just an old gravel pit — with a few water-filled hollows surrounded by marsh vegetation — and lots of rubbish. From the very first it was clear what they had to do, since the estate, located in the environs of the Doñana National Park, offered many possibilities. After intensive clean-up work and restoration of the vegetation, they were able to create a perfect wetland for aquatic birds, above all for those wintering or migrant species which sheltered in the area or passed through it annually. Today, the Cañada de los Pájaros is a site boasting high biodiversity and in which visitors can enjoy the sight of flamingos, ducks, Purple Swamphens, coots, waders, gulls and countless other bird species. Sevvisitor services and activities • Guided or unaccompanied visits. Routes through the reserve’s natural and seminatural environments, with the option of being accompanied by an expert guide. • Birdwatching. Many of the almost 200 species that have been recorded on the site, which lies on the main migratory route to and through Doñana, may be seen on the reserve.
eral of these, such as the herons and egrets, breed naturally within the estate boundaries. In 1991 it was declared a Natural Reserve by the Andalusia Ministry of the Environment. This was the first time in Spain that this legal status, which had been specially created to protect private land, was awarded. Those who visit will enjoy the walk around its main lake while observing its abundant and varied bird life, either guided or unaccompanied. The information boards along the walk help visitors to both identify and learn about all the species present. But the key feature of the site is the close proximity of these free-flying birds in their natural habitat. Without doubt, it is a great place for children, who can marvel at numerous attractive species almost at arm’s length.
• Environmental education. Specially designed visits for schools. Environmental awareness is taught to school children through the observation of aquatic birds.
The Cañada de los Pájaros also undertakes intensive research work, through collaboration with universities and other bodies, ringing campaigns and even captive breeding of threatened species such as Marbled Duck and Red-knobbed Coot. Its work also includes instilling respect for the environment in young children, e.g. through organising guided visits for school groups.
• Accommodation and catering. A rural guesthouse for 2-4 people, and a bar with home-made food and fine views over the wetland through its large glass windows.
Languages English Open All year round, from 10 a.m. to sunset Official endorsements Park Information Point
• Photography. The reserve offers excellent conditions for wildlife photography. For professionals, pre-established fees exist and prior authorisation is required at the reception centre.
• Training. Short training courses are offered, e.g. for students at universities and other educational centres. • Specialist guides. A large proportion of the activities on offer can be enjoyed with monitors specialised in birds and wildlife.
• Shop. Posters, postcards, T-shorts and typical handicrafts are available. Material/equipment provided Information boards along the self-guided routes in the reserve
Contact details Puebla del Río to Isla Mayor road, km 8 Puebla del Río (Sevilla) Tel.: Reserve: 955 77 21 84 Tel.: Casa Rural: 955 77 24 58 Tel.: Bar: 955 77 19 93 canadadelospajaros@canadadelospajaros.com www.canadadelospajaros.com DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
65
DANAT This company, which offers a wide range of services relating to the outdoors, is the result of the endeavours of a group of classmates who wanted to put into practice what they had leant back in 1998 during a specialised and innovative course dealing with physical activities and sports in the countryside. Their initial idea, focussed principally on a sporting theme, has slowly broadened its horizons so that today they offer a wide range of activities on many subjects to all kinds of people, with a special emphasis on school-children, businesses and associations. Danat is based in Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz), on the left bank of the river Guadalquivir, just opposite the Doñana National Park. This is an absolutely marvellous location from which to practise surfing, wind-surfing, canoeing, sailing and horse riding, but at the same time is ideally placed for a series of more gentle activities, such as cycling through the visitor services and activities • Cycling routes. These take place in La Algaida, where Umbrella Pines and Phoenician Junipers have colonised an ancient dune system. On the seaward side lies an area of salt marsh and salt-pans, harbouring a diverse flora and fauna.
pinewoods of La Algaida, or strolling along the trails of the Cerro del Águila. For Danat’s birdwatching activities, the salt-pans and saline marshes of Bonanza are also close at hand. The programmes designed for school-children take place either in the countryside or in the school itself. Danat’s monitors are trained to teach children about nature using a series of games and environmental workshops. In collaboration with the Cádiz regional government, Danat participates in several
• Canoeing. For this activity, Danat makes use of the river Guadalquivir and its estuary.
unique programmes aimed at children in the area, such as ‘Sports in School’ and a play programme Jugueteando. One of the innovations that the team wishes to add to its programme is 4WD itineraries in the Sanlúcar de Barrameda area, where no such activity is currently available. In addition, by taking advantage of the cycle path that is being built in the pinewoods of La Algaida, Danat is hoping to be able to offer pedalcar excursions to its clients in the near future.
• Horse trekking. Visitors can explore some of Doñana’s most emblematic countryside on horseback, either in groups or alone • Sports courses. Among those offered by the company are sailing, surfing, windsurfing, archery, horse riding or beginners’ canoeing.
bouncy castles, trampolines and other games equipment • Activities for school-children. Treasurehunts, archery and orienteering courses are just some of the many sports that children can participate in with Danat.
Languages The company will employ a translator to accompany their guide if necessary • Complementary services. Danat also offers a life-guard service, catering (for its own excursions) and the design and construction of climbing walls.
• Walking and birdwatching. The Cerro del Águila (walking) and the wetlands and salt-pans (birdwatching) are the localities chosen by Danat to carry out these activities. 66
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Material/equipment provided • Binoculars, bird field-guides, field notebooks • The equipment necessary for each activity (wetsuits, bicycles, helmets, etc.) • Hire of horses, bicycles, canoes, portable climbing walls, flying foxes, rope bridges, Tibetan traverses, pedal cars, surfboards,
Open All year round Official endorsements Park Information Point Contact details C/ Calzada del Ejército 11540 Sanlúcar de Barrameda (Cádiz) Tel.: 685 90 55 21 /22 danat_turismo@hotmail.com www.danat.es
EQUIBERIA In 1987, following in the family footsteps, Alfonso Gonzalo de Bustos founded Equiberia, through which he is able to offer horse lovers the benefit of his extensive experience in equestrian matters. The company specialises in all types of tourism involving horses, as well as offering courses dedicated to riding, equine management, etc. Equiberia is based on the estate of La Corbera, near Utrera, which lies between Seville and Jerez de la Frontera. In Andalusia it is still possible to explore large tracts of the countryside on horseback, to follow ancient trails that wend their way through orange and olive groves, or forests of pines and eucalypts. Among the excursions offered by Equiberia are those that trace the pilgrims’ route to El Rocío as it crosses the Doñana National Park, or traverse the grasslands and wood-pastures (dehesas) of the Aracena Natural Park, in Huelva. In order to accommodate its clients as they ride along these scenic trails, Equiberia has taken ad-
vantage of its excellent relations with the many farmsteads and traditional country estates along the way. Closer to home, the company can offer clients a complex of seven high-quality apartments right next to the equestrian centre. Equiberia is a member of the Pegasus Project: a European initia-
tive designed to encourage equestrian tourism. The Equiberia equestrian centre is also home to the Association of Therapeutic Equitation, whose personnel offer expertise in horse riding, breeding and training, psychotherapy, psychology and special educational needs.
visitor services and activities • Horse trekking routes. These take place both in the environs of La Corbera and in the countryside a little further afield, including the Doñana Protected Area. Routes can be tailored to suit clients’ individual needs.
Open All year round
• Training courses. Equiberia offers all manner of courses related to the world of horses: for example, riding lessons, both for beginners and more advanced pupils, stable management, farriery and equine veterinary studies, as well as tuition in equitherapy and equestrian tourism. The school is registered with the Royal Spanish Equestrian Federation (RFHE), and is thus entitled to issue official qualifications to its students.
• School activities. Equiberia is also a member of the Foundation for Grass-roots Equestrianism, which promotes horse riding and stable management as extracurricular activities in schools. It is equipped with an educational stables for primary school children. • Activities for people with limited mobility. Mixed-group riding activities are encouraged, with both people with limited mobility.
Material/equipment provided Equiberia has a show-jumping arena, an area for equitherapy, a covered riding school, dressage arena, cross-country course, and enclosures where horses can run free. There are also 26 loose-boxes and accommodation for 40 horses. Equiberia offers seven self-catering apartments, and the complex is also appointed with a barrestaurant and a recreation area. Languages English and French
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14001 • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point Contact details Carretera de la estación de Don Rodrigo (A-8029), km 3.4 41710 Utrera (Sevilla) Tel.: 954 28 53 19 / 607 75 15 45 hipica@lacorbera.es www.lacorbera.es DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
67
ARDEA PURPUREA The attractive village of Villamanrique de la Condesa, in the province of Seville, is a typical settlement in the region of El Aljarafe lying right on the edge of the Doñana protected area, effectively constituting the northern gateway into this extraordinary wetland at the mouth of the Guadalquivir. Just a stone’s throw from the centre of town lies an interesting tourist complex, inaugurated only in May 2009, which is named after one of the most graceful and stylish birds of Doñana’s marshes, the Purple Heron, whose scientific name is Ardea purpurea. The complex is located on the periphery of the marshes, where the terrain is dry enough to support Mediterranean forest and scrub of enormous ecological significance. The architecture of the various buildings in the complex is clearly inspired by the typical choza marismeña (marshland shepherd’s hut) — characterised by white walls and heatherthatched roof — and blends in perfectly with its surroundings, while the interior décor is based on natural themes, in particular the bird life of Doñana.
The Ardea Purpurea estate comprises some nine hectares, including extensive areas where guests can enjoy the countryside, an artificial lake, which attracts all manner of wild birds, a central building where the rooms are found, and two independent chozas — in the same architectural style as the main building — each of which is fully equipped and sleeps six. Both the communal areas (which are accessible to persons with limited mobility) and the rooms are spacious, wooden-beamed structures with tiled floors, filled with light yet with a cosy atmosphere.
Accommodation type High-class rural accommodation complex
Languages English, French and German
visitor services and activities • Information about the park. • A wide range of activities (birdwatching routes, scenic excursions in horse-drawn carriages or wagons drawn by yoked oxen, cultural itineraries, 4WD tours, etc.) is available from Ardea Purpurea’s sister company, Viturevent. • Jogging circuit. • Mediterranean cuisine.
Location Villamanrique de la Condesa (Seville) Vereda de los Labrados, s/n Coordinates: 37º 14’28.54”N, 6º 17’37.97”W
The ten light and airy rooms overlook the lagoon and surrounding woodlands, giving guests the opportunity to absorb the unique atmosphere of this realm. With the aim of reducing its water consumption, Ardea Purpurea uses rainwater to irrigate the gardens and maintain the level of the artificial lake. The company also participates actively in the development of sustainable tourism initiatives in the region, promoting the sale of traditional produce and craftwork, and it has also started to reforest the grounds of the hotel with native species of trees and shrubs.
• Internet • Each room is equipped with TV, DVD, WiFi, safe deposit box, mini-bar and terrace • Each choza has three bedrooms, lounge, fully equipped kitchen, bathroom, TV, DVD, Wi-Fi, terrace and garden • Access for persons with limited mobility to the communal areas. Open All year round
Capacity • Hotel: 10 rooms, sleeping 20 • 2 chozas marismeñas, sleeping 12 • 140-cover restaurant Facilities • Restaurant, cafeteria • Private car park • Laundry service • Meeting room 68
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Official endorsements Park Information Point
Prices • Double room (with breakfast): 85 €/night • Choza (with breakfast): 200 €/night
Contact details Tel.: 955 75 54 79 viturevent@gmail.com www.ardeapurpureaturismo.com
VITUREVENT The López Hernández brothers are the proprietors of the Ardea purpurea country-hotel complex in Villamanrique de la Condesa (Seville). Less than two years ago they founded Viturevent, through which they offer guests routes around Doñana. With an innovative approach, the itineraries of this new company combine wildlife observation with an insight into the traditions of the region. One example of this is the way they use draught animals for some of their routes. This form of transport was a quintessential feature of the daily life of the inhabitants of Doñana in the past and still is today, as is illustrated by the popular races involving oxdrawn carts that are celebrated every year in Villamanrique. Years ago, wagons pulled by yoked oxen were utilised for many country labours and today Viturevent has modified some of these vehicles to carry their clients through the reserve. Those wishing to experience this age-old form of transport can join a short trip around the village of Villamanrique and, if they are feeling more adventurous, can opt to join the visitor services and activities • 4WD itinerary. Access to the principal ecosystems of the Doñana Natural Space (dunes, beach, marshes and woodlands), a visit to a wine cellar and brunch in Sanlúcar de Barrameda, from where guests travel by boat to the mouth of the Guadalquivir. • Oxen and drums trail. From Villamanrique de la Condesa, with spectacular views over the Doñana marshes. Brunch and an open-air picnic are included.
route along the Raya Real, during which they can enjoy some of Doñana’s most splendid scenery, at a leisurely pace and with frequent pauses to admire the view. The López brothers also offer routes that focus on the bull-fighting traditions of the region, including a fascinating visit to the ranch of Pablo Romero, close to the town of Villamanrique. Here clients have the opportunity to examine the world of the fighting bull at close quarters, with the excursion brought to a close by a typical open-air aperitivo (pre-dinner appetiser). It must not be forgotten, however, that Doñana is a Mecca for European birdwatchers. Viturevent can put anyone with an interest in ornithology, be they Spanish or from overseas, in touch with an expert guide. These guides will take their clients to some of the best birdwatching sites in Doñana, including the estate of Dehesa de Abajo, whose wild olive groves harbour a colony of hundreds of pairs of White Storks, while a sizeable lagoon nearby attracts a wealth of
• Horses and bulls itinerary. Minibus excursions around the environs of Doñana, including visits to horseand bull-rearing ranches. Brunch and a sampling of local sweetmeats included.
• Birdwatching routes. According to the expertise of each client, our guides will take visitors to the best birdwatching localities in Doñana: for example, La Dehesa de Abajo. • Interpretation of the flora and fauna. The aim of this activity is to acquaint visitors with the biodiversity of Doñana and surrounding area, and can be adapted to the interests and expertise of each client.
waterbirds, including Glossy Ibises, Greater Flamingos and Eurasian Spoonbills. Other tempting activities offered by Viturevent include botanical itineraries, cultural visits to the villages of the region, and the possibility of walking the trail of El Rocío accompanied by a band of drummers.
Material/equipment provided • Binoculars and telescope • Field guides and leaflets about the park Languages English, French and German
Open All year round Official endorsements • Park Information Point (applied for) • Doñana 21 Brand
Contact details C/ Juan López Sánchez, 15 Vereda de los Labradores, s/n (the address of the Ardea Purpurea hotel) 41850 Villamanrique de la Condesa (Seville) Tel.: 95 575 54 79 viturevent@gmail.com www.viturevent.com DOÑANA NATURAL SPACE
69
Inside a leafy Cork Oak forest.
LOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK The final vestiges of a Mediterranean jungle At the southernmost tip of Europe as the continent approaches the Strait of Gibraltar lies a land of thick forests, deeply green and silent, which is often shrouded in damp life-giving mists that pour in off the sea. In this extremity of Europe, nearby Africa is ever present and a junglelike forest thrives; here the thud of the axes the cork-strippers use to remove the rough bark of the cork oak is commonplace, and the brilliant pink flowers of the local endemic rhododendron shine out from beneath the giant twisted trunks of trees entwined in a mesh of lianas. This unique site, whose verdant vegetation comes as a real surprise in dry Mediterranean Spain, is protected by Los Alcornocales Natural Park, a humid land of forests illuminated by the splendid sun of the Cádiz coast.
os Alcornocales Natural Park consists of the western-most ridges of the Sierras Béticas, a complex series of mountain ranges of differing heights that include some of the most rugged and abrupt mountains in the whole of the Iberian Peninsula. These north-southrunning mountains lose height as they approach the Strait of Gibraltar and are not excessively high: summits range from a few hundred metres above sea level near Tarifa to the 1,091 metres of Aljibe, the highest point of this protected area. Together, the Sierra del Aljibe and other nearby ranges such as the Sierra de Blanquilla are known as the Aljibe Unit, an area dominated by sandstones and, to a lesser extent, by marls. When the waters of the primeval seas retreated, the exposed sediments were revealed as what we now refer to as the Aljibe sandstones, siliceous and red-brown in colour and flanked by softer mudstones, clays and marls. Subsequent folding has left the sandstones in many places forming vertical strata with exposed rocky crests and sheer cliffs that stand out clearly against the more homogenous backdrop of the verdant forests. One of the most singular geological formations of the park is the curious Montera del Torero near Los Barrios, a rocky outcrop eroded into the shape of a bullfighter’s hat. This sandstone rock stands 15-m high and 12-m wide and its centre has been hollowed out by the forces of nature in a type of erosion that is more reminiscent of the sandstones along the coast.
L
Like an island in the siliceous sea of the Sierra de Aljibe, the karstic landscape of Motillas is one of the most interesting and largest such formations in Andalusia. These caves and cavities have various openings — the best known being the Motillas Cave — that act as springs and sources of streams during wet periods, as well as being known as important refuge sites for a variety of bat species. Other calcareous outcrops that break up the dominance of the region’s siliceous rocks include the sierras of Las Cabras and La Sal, surrounded by marls and gypsums, whose network of caves completes the list of the appealing but little-known subterranean sites in this Natural Park. The influence of the climate A typical Mediterranean climate of hot dry summers and much wetter springs and autumns is the tonic in Los Alcornocales. Nevertheless, this is a simplification and there are a number of local variants that decisively affect the region’s singular vegetation. The relatively low altitude of most of the area and its proximity to the coast mean that temperatures are mild — monthly averages oscillate from 7°C to 25°C — and so neither cold snaps nor the extreme heat of inland areas are wont to occur. Another of the singularities of this region is its position between two seas, a fact that leads to an almost constant buffeting by two opposing and very temperamental winds, the LOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK
71
Rain falls particularly generously in the north and east of the park on the highest mountains. The north-south orientation of the mountains means that these ridges act as barriers to the humid air masses that rush in from both sides and as excellent cloud and mist traps; yearly rainfall can reach 2,000 mm/m2, more than in many areas of northern Spain and similar to certain tropical forests, although rainfall is concentrated in specific periods of the year. By contrast, there are areas in the park which receive relatively little rain (around 500 mm a year), thereby provoking notable environmental contrasts — and thus biological diversity — with the more humid parts of the Natural Park. The abundant rainfall that falls over much of these coastal mountains has created an intricate network of rivers and streams flowing into both the Atlantic and Mediterranean. The former receives water from the rivers Guadalete and its tributary the Majaceite and the Barbate (with its tributaries the Fraja, Celemín, Almodóvar, Alberite and Álamo), whilst the Mediterranean embraces the waters of the rivers Guadarranque, Guadacortes, Palmones, Guadalmesí, Guadiaro and the latter’s tributary, the Hozgarganta, probably the most charming of all water courses in Los Alcornocales. All these water courses have very seasonal regimes, with rapid rises in level during rainy periods and then prolonged dry periods, and are characterised by abundant bank-side vegetation and deep gorges carved out of the surrounding mountains.
Cork Oaks with their trunks and main branches recently stripped. Immediately after being stripped, the exposed bark turns orange, but then becomes gradually redder and darker as time passes.
poniente and levante. The westerly poniente blows from the Atlantic and is cooler and damper than the hot dry easterly levante that originates from the Mediterranean. Nevertheless, the funnel effect of the Strait of Gibraltar and the temperature differences between the winds tend to mean that both winds persist and blow hard, above all in the south of the Natural Park. In particular during the hottest months of the year, these winds create a more humid, frequently misty microclimate that is the main explanation for the presence of so many ecological treasures in this part of the province of Cádiz. 72
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
The kingdom of the Mediterranean oaks The vegetation of this protected area — as the name alcornocal (Cork Oak) indicates — is dominated by Cork Oaks in dense forest masses known as mojeas or mohedas. Old oaks are accompanied by Strawberry-trees, Phillyrea, Mediterranean Buckthorns and, where the primitive forest has been degraded, by various species of heather. Dwarf Fan Palms, Myrtles, Holly Oaks and Wild Olives accompany the trees and shrubs in the warmer parts of the park, usually below 200 m. In the most shady parts, or on north faces and areas of deeper and more humid soils, stands of other Mediterranean oaks such as the magnificent Algerian Oak (Quercus canariensis) appear, upon whose boughs grow many epiphytic plants and lianas, along with dense shrublands composed of Bays, Holly, Wayfaring Tree, Myrtle, Rhododendron ponticum and the omnipresent Cork Oak. These dank forests represent one of the best and most extensive examples of the primitive Mediterranean forest still in existence. The magnificent rhododendrons, with eye-catching pink flowers, form pure stands or relict communities mixed in with other species in the narrow gullies — the famous canutos — that trap the abundant precipitation and summer mists, thereby maintaining the humidity these plants need. Nothing else in Europe resembles the canutos; a walk through their intricate depths is a trip into a jungle-like
Mixed stands of Algerian and Cork Oaks are the most typical woodland in the park.
Flowers of Rhododendron ponticum, at home in the park’s many humid gullies.
environment, full of huge trees covered in mosses and rare ferns with branches entwined in lianas and trailing with lichens … and all without need to set foot outside of Europe. After this walk, botanists should head for another of the park’s most interesting plant communities, the Quercus lusitanica stands in the Llanos del Juncal. This shrub-like oak is present in the sierras de Luna and Ojén; it is similar to but much smaller than the confusingly named Lusitanian Oak (Q. faginea), the third of the deciduous oaks found in the Natural Park. This latter species appears mainly on the calcareous soils in the north of the park and often hybridises with the Algerian Oak, giving rise to intermediate forms known to botanical science as Quercus x marianica. In the driest areas the Lusitanian Oak woodland is replaced by stands of Holm Oaks. In some of the high west-facing parts of these mountains (above 700 m) there are also small stands of another confusingly named oak, Pyrenean Oak (Q. pyrenaica), whose presence reveals that in times past environmental conditions here were much colder. The best examples of Pyrenean Oak — indeed, the most southerly such trees in Europe — can be admired in the Sierra del Aljibe (near Pilita de la Reina), La Loma del Castillo and the mountains of Algeciras. The commonest scrub formations in the Natural Park are composed of heathers and rock-roses, although in some areas on particularly poor soils the gorse-like Calicotome villosa growing up to two metres in height and replete with wicked spines dominates. Other shrub formations are dominated by Lentisc, brooms and Straw-
berry-trees and under extreme conditions (for example, on the herrizas or crests of the sandstone ridges castigated by the easterly winds) give way a very particular stunted plant community of heathers containing many endemic species such as the rare carnivorous Portuguese Sundew (Drosophyllum lusitanicum). In lower areas the Wild Olive is characteristic and is found in both dense stands and on semi-cleared land. Where this shrub is absent, rich pastures or bujeos, much frequented by both wild and domestic herbivores, appear. Earth’s best preserved Cork Oak forest There can be no doubt, though, that the Cork Oak is the most dominant plant in the life and landscape of the Natural Park. It is a magnificent tree, long-lived and irregular in shape, but with very dense wood. It grows in compact stands, but in places has been managed for stock-rearing, and dehesas (wood pastures) of varying densities of trees have been created where animals graze and glean fallen acorns. It does not withstand the cold or droughts as well as its near relative the Holm Oak and requires a certain amount of precipitation; neither will it grow on limestone soils, being instead all but confined to siliceous soils, sandstones or, in their absence, leached decarbonated soils. It develops a thick spongy bark — the cork — that protects the tree from fire and infestations, although it is no defence against a disease known as la seca, one of the principal threats to this singular species. It is found in the western Mediterranean, with its greatest surface area being in Portugal, today the world’s most LOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK
73
important producer of cork. Spain comes second in terms of the amount of forest cover, with almost 5,000 km2 of Cork Oak forests or dehesas. The largest Cork Oak forest in the world is in La Mamora in Morocco, whilst the largest in Spain is found in the dehesas of Jerez de los Caballeros (Badajoz). But, the forests in Los Alcornocales Natural Park are the best preserved anywhere and represent one of the most diverse and verdant forests in the whole of Europe. The cork forest The descorche or stripping of the cork — one of the oldest traditional practices still alive in Mediterranean forests — takes place every nine years in Los Alcornocales and in all the other mountains and dehesas where the cork oak thrives. This is probably the most economically significant activity in the Cork Oak forests and has provided these trees with a life insurance that has saved them from the axe, unlike thousands of other oaks that were sacrificed in the past for wood for building, firewood and to make charcoal. The laborious process of the descorche requires expert hands and has been carried out in the same fashion for many centuries. The cork-strippers — the corcheros — use long pointed lances — burjas — and special axes to split and strip portions of the tree’s outer bark — the corcho — which exposes the second, bright-orange layer of bark — the casca. It is tough work, not only because of the effort needed to reach and then work the trees, but because the descorche has to be performed at the height of the summer when the cork is easiest to peel off and the tree suffers least from losing its outer bark. In addition, the corcheros have to contend with the painful bites of the feared morito, an ant (Crematogaster scutellaris)
that builds galleries in the cork and in doing so lowers considerably the price at which the cork can be sold. The corcheros take care not to damage the living part of the trees as they strip off the panas, the large sheets of cork they pile up next to the trees, which the mule-drivers then take to the patios to be weighed in quintals (100 kg). The first time a Cork Oak is stripped the cork or bornizo is of little value and it is not until the third descorche that thick, well formed cork of good quality, which is such a vital source of income in the rural economy of many parts of the Iberian Peninsula, is obtained. As visitors will quickly appreciate, this traditional sustainable activity, which from the Natural Park alone accounts for 30% of all Spanish cork production, is a veritable cornucopia of singular implements, words and rural traditions that must not be lost. Forest fauna and a corridor migratory birds Typically, the existence of a well-conserved area of vegetation harbouring a number of different types of habitats guarantees the presence of a variety of faunal communities that occupy all the different niches that such environments have to offer. This is most certainly the case of Los Alcornocales Natural Park, where 250 different species of vertebrate have been recorded in its forests, wood pastures, grazing land, rock outcrops and well-preserved rivers. The importance of this southern Spanish site becomes even more obvious if we bear in mind its strategic position, foursquare on the migration route used by myriads of birds that cross into Africa via the Strait of Gibraltar at the end of the breeding season and then pour back northwards to their European breeding sites in spring. In this season and autumn this migration corridor, one of the most important in
The cork is stripped in July and August, always by hand and with the help of mules, just as it has been for centuries.
74
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Short-toed Eagle, a woodland raptor that is typical of Mediterranean forests. Known as the ‘snake eagle’ in Spain, the vast majority of its prey consists of lizards and snakes.
Los Alcornocales is home to one of Europe’s most important populations of Egyptian Mongooses.
the world, funnels tens of thousands storks (mainly White, but also a certain number of Black Storks) and numerous raptors, above all kites, Honey Buzzards, Short-toed and Booted Eagles, Egyptian Vultures, Sparrowhawks and harriers, as well as countless passerines and other smaller birds, into and across the Natural Park. Over the period of a year the park is home to up to 165 species of birds, 49 mammals, 21 reptiles, 11 amphibians and seven fishes. Of the amphibians, there are several notable taxa that are endemic to the Iberian Peninsula: Southern Marbled Newt, the Iberian Painted Frog, Iberian Parsley Frog and a form of the Fire Salamander that recent studies seem to indicate is different from the other such salamanders living in the Iberian Peninsula. Some of the park’s most interesting birds are linked to forest and cliff habitats and include a good selection of daytime and nocturnal raptors (Griffon and Egyptian Vultures, Bonelli’s and Short-toed Eagles, Sparrowhawk, Peregrine Falcon and Tawny Owl and Eagle Owl) and abundant passerines (over 80 species), some of which are found at their southernmost points in their European distributions in Los Alcornocales. The most singular of the park’s mammals is a subspecies of Roe Deer, surviving in the mountains of Cádiz and Málaga in an isolated breeding population that is also the southernmost in Europe. The other large herbivores present in the park are Red and Fallow Deer and Mouflon, the latter two introduced for hunting, and the Iberian Ibex, which has recently colonised the highest rocky crags of the area. The park also boasts notable communities of bats (17 species) and small and medium-sized carnivores, which include Otters and Egyptian Mongoose, the only European mongoose and here in one of its strongest Iberian populations.
New times, old ways Despite being shared between 17 municipalities and lying within the relatively densely populated province of Cádiz, there is, surprisingly, no built-up area inside the over 167,000 ha of the Natural Park. Only four small hamlets, with a combined population of barely 1,000 souls, lie actually within the park’s boundaries, a fact that only serves to highlight the extreme ruggedness of these untamed sierras. The park periphery is another story, however, and is well equipped with picturesque ‘white towns’ such as Ubrique, Cortes de La Frontera, Los Barrios, Alcalá de los Gazules and Algar, so characteristic of the Campo de Gibraltar and the mountains of Cádiz and Málaga, which with their well-preserved buildings steeped in history contribute so much to the beauty of this area. The local territorial model is based on large public or private estates, which have prevented the development of large human settlements within the park. Nevertheless, this by no means implies that its forests have never been fully exploited — quite to the contrary, in fact, for these Mediterranean forests have historically always been home to a diverse range of farm and rural enterprises whose rational management has ensured that we can still enjoy much of the area’s significant natural heritage. Today, cork is the main forest resource, although just a few decades ago the local forest economy was much more important; some areas were cultivated, while in others wood was cut for home use and making charcoal, and pine-nuts, wild mushrooms, prickly pears, wild asparagus, honey, wild herbs, palm hearts and even the knotty roots of heathers to make pipes were all gathered or harvested. Today, albeit to a lesser extent and subject to strict regulations, the forests are still exploited. It is common in the park to see cows (above all, the local retinta race), sheep, goats, Iberian pigs and horses and mules, the latter esLOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK
75
PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND PUBLIC FACILITIES Los Alcornocales Natural Park • Date declared. 28 July 1989 • Surface area. 167,767 ha • Provinces. Cádiz and Málaga • Municipalities. CÁDIZ: Alcalá de Los Gazules, Algar, Algeciras, Arcos de la Frontera, Los Barrios, Benalup-Casas Viejas, Benaocaz, El Bosque, Castellar de la Frontera, Jerez de la Frontera, Jimena de la Frontera, Medina-Sidonia, Prado del Rey, San José del Valle, Tarifa, Ubrique. MÁLAGA: Cortes de la Frontera. • ECST accreditation. 2004 • Other types of protection. Special Protection Area for Birds, Site of Community Importance • Contact details Plaza de San Jorge, 1 (Casa del Cabildo) 11180 Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz) Tel.: 956 41 86 01 / Fax: 956 41 86 10 pn.alcornocales.cma@juntadeandalucia.es Go to Ventana del Visitante at: www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente vISITOR FACILITIES CORTES DE LA FRONTERA VISITOR CENTRE The town of Cortes de la Frontera is strategically very well situated at the point that three protected areas — Los Alcornocales, Sierra de Grazalema and Sierra de Las Nieves — meet. The visitor centre in this town provides an excellent opportunity to study not only the different environments found in these three protected areas, but also how humans have influenced the landscape and the decisive role played by water in moulding the main geomorphologic features of the area and its principal vegetation types. Special attention is paid to the Spanish Fir forests in the sierras of Grazalema and Las Nieves. • Location and contact details. c/ Jacaranda, 1, on the corner of Avda. de la Democracia. Cortes de la Frontera (Málaga). Tel.: 952 15 45 99 • Services. Audiovisual, projection and multiuse rooms, shop. • Opening times. All year round. Thursday: 1014; Friday: 16-18 (July-September, 19-21); Saturday and Sunday: 10-14 and 16-18 (July-September, also 19-21) • Suitable for people with hearing difficulties EL ALJIBE VISITOR CENTRE The mountains of El Aljibe harbour some of the main peaks of Los Alcornocales Natural Park. The local visitor centre has various exhibition areas where visitors can find out about the 76
ecosystems present in this part of the park, how they have been influenced by human activity and the traditional ways local people have exploited their natural surroundings. Nearby, El Aljibe Botanical Garden is also open to visitors. • Location and contact details. Alcalá de los Gazules to Benalup-Casas Viejas road (A-2228), km 1. Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 42 05 29 / 677 90 58 76 • Services. Thematic exhibition rooms, projection and multi-use rooms, botanical garden, shop and cafe.
• Opening times. All year round. 1 July to 15 September:Tuesday-Sunday: 09.00-15.00.The rest of the year: 10.00-14.00; and alsoTuesday-Thursday: 15.00-17.00; Friday-Sunday: 16.00-18.00. • Access for people with reduced mobility EL ALJIBE BOTANICAL GARDEN This botanical garden contains a representation of the most characteristic plants of the Aljibic Biogeographical Sector (cloud forests, deciduous oaks, Cork Oaks, Wild Olive formations and bujeos), which more or less coincides
with the limits of the Natural Park. The gardens also boast botanical rarities such as Rhododendron ponticum and a number of rare and threatened species. • Location and contact details. Alcalá de los Gazules to Benalup-Casas Viejas road (A-2228), km 1. Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz). • Opening times. 10-14. Afternoons: May-September: 18-20; October-April: 16-18. HUERTA GRANDE VISITOR CENTRE This centre is currently being refurbished (provisional reopening in January 2010) and will in-
clude an exhibition on the migration of soaring birds across the Strait of Gibraltar, as well as on the seabirds and cetaceans of the Strait. The centre will operate as part of both Los Alcornocales and the Strait of Gibraltar Natural Parks. • Location and contact details. Algeciras-Tarifa road (N-340), km 96. Tel.: 956 67 91 61 • Services. Audiovisual display, guided visit to exhibition, interpretation panels, bar and restaurant, shop (books and products from Andalusian protected areas), car park.
OThER INFORMATION POINTS Name
Location
Address
Telephone
Access
Alcalá de los Gazules
Alcalá de los Gazules
P.º de la Playa
956 42 04 51
Benalup-Casas Viejas
Benalup-Casas Viejas
c/ Paterna, 4
956 42 40 09 / Yes 600 59 01 42
Castillo de Castellar
Castellar de la Frontera Viejo
Castillo de Castellar, s/n.
956 23 68 87
No
Centro Artesanal
Medina-Sidonia
c/ San Juan, s/n. (near market)
956 41 24 04
Yes
Jimena de la Frontera. Also Mycological
Jimena de la Frontera
Iglesia de la Misericordia (next to castle)
956 64 05 69
No
Los Barrios
Los Barrios
Avda. Defensor del Pueblo, s/n. 956 62 8013 / No (Chamizo de la Rubia) 956 62 80 06
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
No
• Opening times. To be confirmed. • Access for people with reduced mobility RECREATIONAL FACILITIES PICNIC SITES The natural park has 10 picnic sites, of which some of the most interesting are: • El Cerro del Moro, Castellar de la Frontera (Cádiz). • El Bujeo, Tarifa (Cádiz). • El Picacho, Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Garganta Barrida, Ubrique (Cádiz). • La Sauceda, Cortes de la Frontera (Málaga). • Los Acebuches, Jimena de la Frontera (Cádiz). • LosTornos, Tarifa (Cádiz). Located near the GR7 long-distance footpath, which crosses the Natural Park from Tarifa to Ubrique, and then continues on into Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. • Montera del Torero, Los Barrios (Cádiz). Situated in the Dos Bahías Green Corridor, an itinerary that follows the drovers’-roads that link two bays, the Bahía de Cádiz and Bahía de Algeciras. VIEwPOINTS • Cabecera del Río de la Miel, Algeciras (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Hoyo de Don Pedro, Los Barrios (Cádiz). • La Calzada, Castellar de la Frontera (Cádiz). • El Mojón de la Víbora, Ubrique (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Puerto de las Asomadillas, Jimena de la Frontera (Cádiz). • Puerto de las Palomas, Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Puerto de Ojén, Los Barrios (Cádiz). • Las Corzas, Los Barrios (Cádiz). FOOTPAThS AND TRAILS A network of 19 waymarked paths totalling around 80 km exists in the park, of which the following are some of the best for exploring the Natural Park: • La Sauceda. Coinciding with the border between the provinces of Cádiz and Málaga, this route runs along a number of the canutos, the humid gullies that are so characteristic of this park. As an area of restricted access, visitors must first apply for a permit from the park offices. Length: 4.2 Km. Time: 3 h-3 h 30 min. • Climb to summit of Picacho. This route begins in the Picacho picnic spot and climbs to
the summit of Picacho (882 m), an ascent whose difficulty is more than repaid by the magnificent views of a large part of the province of Cádiz and the neighbouring Sierra de Grazalema. As an area of restricted access, visitors must first apply for a permit from the park offices. Length: 3.2 km. Time: 2-3 h. • San Carlos del Tiradero. This route runs through stands of old Lusitanian Oaks, whose candelabra-like forms are due to the continual cutting back for wood for making charcoal that they were once subject to. It also visits a stream with verdant gallery vegetation. Length: 2.6 km. Time: 1 h-1 h 30 min. • Sendero de Valdeinfierno. Along this path visitors will be able to contemplate the spectacular flora of the canutos; 630 m of the route is accessible to people with reduced mobility. Length: 6 km. Time: 3 h-3 h 30 min. BIkE LANES The Natural Park also has nine itineraries that have been specially designed with cycle-touring in mind: • Berrueco-Cañillas. 21 km. Cortes de la Frontera (Cádiz). • La Sauceda. 12 km. Cortes de la Frontera (Cádiz). • El Cabrito-Puerto del Bujeo. 9 km. Tarifa (Cádiz). • El Picacho-Peguera. 42.5 km. Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz). • Puerto del Bujeo-Hoyo de Don Pedro. 21 km. Los Barrios and Algeciras (Cádiz). • Sierra de Montecoche. 19 km. Los Barrios (Cádiz). • Valle de Ojén. 21 km. Los Barrios and Tarifa (Cádiz). • Lomo del Judío. 5 km. Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz). • Ruta de los Alcornocales. 43 km. Alcalá de los Gazules and Los Barrios (Cádiz). OThER FACILITIES EL PICACHO FIELD CENTRE Located on the slopes of El Picacho in a very attractive setting. Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz). Tel.: 615 51 50 88 / 686 87 34 58 / 956 07 14 16 juanjose@educamrural.es ETHNOGRAPHICAL INTERPRETATION CENTRE Displays and exhibitions pertaining to the typical customs of the area. Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 42 03 30 www.turismodelosgazules.com
• El Cabrito ornithological observation point, Tarifa (Cádiz). Accessible for people with reduced mobility. • El Algarrobo ornithological observation point, Algeciras (Cádiz). Accessible for people with reduced mobility. • Santuario ornithological observation point, Tarifa (Cádiz). Accessible for people with reduced mobility. • Facinas ornithological observation point, Tarifa (Cádiz). The last three observation points are actually
EL RISCO ETHNOBOTANICAL GARDEN A municipally owned botanical garden with exhibits of local flora and how local people make use of local plants. Jimena de la Frontera (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 64 00 64 www.jimenadelafrontera.es ORNIThOLOGICAL OBSERvATION POINTS Besides the viewpoints located along the footpaths and trails, and at the visitor centres, the following ornithological observation points are also worth visiting:
A-4
A-372 A-382
AP-4
just outside the Natural Park and are excellent spots for observing the migration of soaring birds across the Strait of Gibraltar. FURThER INFORMATION The sustainable tourism association ‘Los Alcornocales’, which is currently putting into practice the ECST action plan, works in close contact with the Natural Park and has set up a webpage with abundant information for visitors to this protected area: Tel.: 956 41 32 52. www.alcornocales.org
Grazalema
El Bosque
Arcos de la Frontera
Benaoján
Benaocaz
E-5
Embalse de los Hurones
Embalse de Guadalcacín
A-2003
A-381
Montejaque
Villaluenga del Rosario
Ubrique
Jimera de Líbar
A-369
Cortes de la Frontera 1 Benadalid
A-389
San José del Valle A-2304
Algatocín
A-408 Paterna de Rivera
Alcalá de los Gazules
A-381 A-390
Gaucín
A-2304 A-405
C-3311
2
Medina-Sidonia
Casares
JB BenalupCasas Viejas
Embalse de Barbate
A-377
Jimena de la Frontera
Manilva
A-405 A-381
A-48
Embalse de Guadarranque
A-396
Embalse de Celemín
Vejer de la Frontera
Castellar de la Frontera Embalse de Palmones
A-314
A-7
San Roque
N-340
A-383
Barbate 1
Cortes de la Frontera Visitor Centre
2
El Aljibe Visitor Centre
3
Huerta Grande Visitor Centre
JB
El Aljibe Botanical Garden Information Point
A-7
Los Barrios CA-34
Algeciras
La Línea de la Concepción Gibraltar
3 0 Tarifa
5
10
15 km
LOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK
77
(Left) View of river Hozgarganta, flowing between evergreen and deciduous oaks. (Top) Panorama of the neighbouring Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park from Los Alcornocales. (Bottom) Canuto of the river De la Miel.
sential for getting the cork out of the forests, grazing freely. Hunting is the other major way of exploiting these mountains and big-game hunting for Red and Fallow Deer and Mouflon is popular, although the most-prized trophy is the Roe Deer. A place to respire the heart of the forest Visitors to Los Alcornocales have the option of contemplating the park’s interminable forests from a peak or from one of the many small saddles and passes on the sinuous back roads that cross the park; or of noting the freshness of a canuto surrounded by lianas and ferns; or even of walking a remote forest trail to the sound of the grunts of rutting Roe Deer stags. A glance upwards may reveal the 78
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
presence of groups of hundreds of migrating birds, while a giant oak may provide a welcome shady spot under which to rest. The best way to discover one of the most fascinating forests in the Iberian Peninsula is to walk the park’s network of signposted footpaths, for example, up to the peak of El Aljibe, or along the unforgettable itineraries of San Carlos del Tiradero, El Palancar and river Miel. As well, visitors should bear in mind the possibilities offered by the 12 drover’s roads that together form the Two Bays Green Corridor (Corredor Verde Dos Bahías), a natural corridor promoted by the Andalusian Ministry of the Environment and a number of local environmental groups, which crosses Los Alcornocales from Celemín to La Montera del Torero.
CASA DE BÁRBARA The‘Noble, Loyal and Illustrious’town of Alcalá de los Gazules — in fact, a city despite its small size — makes no effort to hide its status as one of Andalusia’s famous ‘white towns’ and its whitewashed walls rise proudly in a cluster around the dominant tower of the church of San Jorge. Situated on an old smuggler’s route and once safe haven for local bandits, today Alcalá de los Gazules — declared a historical-artistic site — is still steeped in history, as the nearby cave paintings and the pottery remains found in the area testify. Romans, Visigoths, Arabs and other peoples and cultures have left their mark here, in the shape of a vast architectural and ethnographical heritage that runs from medicinal springs to the old town walls, from manor houses to convents. The town lies in the centre of Cádiz province, close to the A-381 dual-carriageway, and is thus in an ideal position for those who wish to get to know this bountiful land, with its rugged mountains, excellent beaches and cities such as Algeciras, Jerez de la Fron-
Accommodation type Superior independent self-catering house, whole-house rental only visitor services and activities • Information about the region and Los Alcornocales Natural Park.
tera and Cádiz. Casa de Bárbara is split between two floors and exudes a rustic air in all its architecture and décor, from its wood through to its adobe and stone walls. Visitors that choose to spend a few days within its robust walls will find all the warmth and naturalness they need in a atmosphere that is both relaxed and welcoming. From the moment María de los Santos, the owner, accepts the reservation, she guarantees that visitors’ stays are fruitful and productive, and makes sure that her guests are fully aware of all the possibilities that the region has to offer. She will arrange for permits for the Natural Park and has a wealth of information regarding this protected area that she loves so much at her fingertips. Casa de Bárbara also takes the trouble to welcome clients with a gift of local cured meat, cheese or pastry. The house has a library in which guests will find a plenty of information about the Natural Park and local wildlife. As well, the house is adorned with
• The owners of the house will apply for permits for the areas of the park that are of restricted access. • Pets welcomed.
a selection of well-labelled local flowers in pots that will satisfy guests’ sense of smell as much as their curiosity about the local flora.
Capacity 1 house, sleeping 4
Languages French
Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point Facilities • Fully equipped kitchen • TV • Library of books on the local area
Location Alcalá de los Gazules (Cádiz) C/ San Sebastián, 12 Coordinates: 36º 27’ 52.85” N, 5º 43’ 7.66” W
Contact details Tel.: 956 41 32 13 / 610 72 71 85 info@casadebarbara.com www.casadebarbara.com
Open All year round Prices Whole house: 70 €/day LOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK
79
NATURE EXPLORER Based in Barbate (Cádiz), Nature Explorer was set up in 2004, although the current management team has only been operating since 2009. Their principal activities in Los Alcornocales Park are hiking, mountain biking, mountain multi-adventure and 4WD routes, although in neighbouring parks they also offer diving, canoeing, horse riding, whale-watching and multi-adventure beach activities. These are designed for different levels of experience and physical ability and cater for a wide variety of clients. In addition, they are also working more and more with school groups using a programme of environmental education activities. The majority of Nature Explorer’s activities take place in Los Alcornocales Natural Park, with visits concentrating on the high diversity of mountain landscapes, including the canutos del Risco Blanco, the San Carlos del Tiradero stream and the rivers La Miel and Guadalmesí are just some of the sites visited, and are ideal for birdwatching, with excellent possibilities of seeing a high diversity of woodland raptors visitor services and activities • Hiking. The company uses various trails in Los Alcornocales Natural Park, many of which are ideal for birdwatching, above all, in forested habitats.
(Booted and Short-toed Eagles, Northern Goshawk and Eurasian Sparrowhawk). Cork harvesting, one of the most traditional rural ways of exploiting the park’s forests, can be witnessed by visitors who visit at the right moment of the year. From its base in Barbate one of the company’s most visited sites is the nearby La Breña & Marismas del Barbate Natural Park, where sea cliffs up to 100 m in height afford spectacular views across the Strait of Gibraltar. A wide range of activities can be undertaken in these surroundings including diving, canoeing, hiking and horse riding in this area of mixed marine and terrestrial environments. One of the immediate objectives of Nature Explorer is the production of a guide to sustainable tourism in both Los Alcornocales and La Breña & Marismas del Barbate Natural Parks. It also plans to become more involved with local NGOs whose volunteers work on projects in the park that include raptor censuses and the replanting of native tree species.
• Mountain biking. Various routes crossing Los Alcornocales Natural Park and surrounding areas, such as the Camino de Picacho-Peguera and the Ruta de Los Molinos, which give views across the Strait of Gibraltar to the African coast.
The philosophy behind Nature Explorer is a combination of knowledge and respect for wildlife, together with extensive experience in the development of activity tourism in the outdoors.
diving of all types and levels, including night dives and visits to sunken ships, plus recreational diving training courses, kayaking and whale-watching in the Strait of Gibraltar. Also, large-group 4WD trips to various areas of Cádiz Province.
Languages English and French Open All year round
• Multi-adventure programmes. Aimed at groups from schools and companies. Tailor-made for each group, based on group size, ages and time available. These include activities such as archery, rockclimbing, death slides … • Other activities. Outside the park, scuba80
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Material/equipment provided • Binoculars (upon request) • Information leaflets for the park and each route • Mountain bike hire • Vehicular transport (4WD routes) • Technical material for scuba-diving
Contact details Puerto Deportivo de Barbate, local A2 11160 Barbate (Cádiz) Tel.: 956 45 14 00 / 607 44 65 11 info@naturexplorer.com www.naturexplorer.com
CASA CONVENTO LA ALMORAIMA At the beginning of the seventeenth century, the Countess of Castellar stipulated that the convent of La Almoraima be built to house the Order of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Mercy (Orden de la Merced), donating for the purpose a magnificent estate surrounded by thick Cork Oak forests. Two centuries later, the Duke of Medinaceli — who also held the title of Count of Castellar — initiated a project whereby this enormous property was converted into a hunting preserve. The estate has been employed as such ever since, at the same time being utilised to produce cork and firewood, for rearing free-range Iberian Black Pigs, and for other sundry agricultural activities. After changing hands several times, La Almoraima — at 16,000 hectares, one of the largest estates in sole ownership in Europe — passed into the hands of the Spanish Wildlife Conservation Institute in 1987, although nowadays it belongs to the National Parks Organisation. The hotel that today occupies the convent of La Almoraima is undoubtedly one of the most unique Accommodation type Four-star hotel visitor services and activities • Information about the region. • Guided excursions around the estate (in 4WD vehicles, on foot, on horseback or by mountain bike).
rural accommodation complexes in Andalusia, as much for its location — in the heart of Los Alcornocales Natural Park — as for its amenities. Access to the rooms is by means of a large, landscaped courtyard, resembling a cloister, enlivened by birdsong and a murmuring fountain. Once inside the building, the décor of both the communal areas and the rooms fulfils every expectation, characterised by traditional furnishings in keeping with the antiquity of the edifice. As such, the rooms, some of which have open fires, convey a sensation of warmth and wellbeing. The establishment is also equipped with sports facilities, a swimming pool and several conference rooms. The hotel has an excellent restaurant, where guests can sample many dishes typical of the regional cuisine, ranging from a stew of tagarninas (cardoonlike plant) to wild boar in sweet-chestnut sauce, and from salmorejo (gazpacho-like cold tomato soup) to venison‘à la Almoraima’. Many active pursuits are also available at La Almoraima: excursions in 4WD vehi-
• Horse riding. • Organisation of mountain-bike routes. • Traditional gastronomy. • Sale of local produce (honey, preserves and artisan craftwork made from cork).
cles, horse trekking, mountain biking, guided walks, birdwatching or even helping out with farming activities on the estate, such as harvesting cork. It is also possible to hunt, observe the Red Deer rut, or visit the coast, which is only 15 km from the hotel.
Capacity • 23 rooms, sleeping 54 • 90-cover restaurant
Languages English and German
Location Castellar de la Frontera (Cádiz) Finca La Almoraima, on the road between Algeciras and Ronda. Coordinates: 36º 17’22.02’’N, 5º 25’51.16’’W
Facilities • Restaurant, bar • All types of functions catered for • Conference room • 2 lounges with open fires • Car park • Swimming pool • Sports facilities • All rooms are equipped with telephone, mini-bar, safe deposit box and TV; some have open fires • One room adapted for people with limited mobility
Open All year round, although at present it is undergoing major renovation and improvements, and will re-open in April 2010. Prices Double room: from 80 €/night Official endorsements ISO 14001 Contact details Tel.: 956 69 30 02 / 956 69 30 50 reservas@laalmoraimahotel.com www.laalmoraimahotel.com LOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK
81
GENATUR Versatility is one of the main tendencies apparent in companies working in nature reserves. Genatur, active since 1996, fits this pattern, having worked on a wide range of subjects, from environmental education to active tourism, from socio-cultural animation to specialised consultation. Schools, families and groups are their principal clients, although other groups such as companies looking for enjoyable and stimulating activities in a natural environment are slowly being incorporated into their clientele. It is no accident that Genatur works in the nature reserves in Cádiz Province, in other words the very best wildlife areas in one of the most biodiverse provinces in Andalusia. A large part of Genatur’s educational and tourism work is undertaken in Los Alcornocales Natural Park, thereby allowing their clients access to some of the most spectacular Mediterranean and riparian woodlands in Spain. The combination of routes such as La visitor services and activities • Hiking. Genatur leads walks of different lengths and degree of difficulty within the different natural parks in Cádiz Province — Los Alcornocales, Sierra de Grazalema, La Breña & Marismas del Barbate, Doñana and the Strait of Gibraltar — and unprotected sites in other rural areas, such as the Vía Verde de la Sierra and the Jerez countryside • Multi-adventure. Beginner’s courses in rock climbing and abseiling, archery, mountain biking, orientation and canoeing in various Cádiz reservoirs such as Guadalcacín, Barbate, Zahara and Arcos.
Sauceda, which follows the Hozgarganta river, and other less well known options, for example a trek in the mountains of Jerez de la Frontera (where the company is based) are typical. Although outside Los Alcornocales, Genatur regularly visit the Laguna de
birdwatching routes, particularly at the Laguna de Medina and La Esperanza saltpans, where large numbers of aquatic birds can be seen. • Socio-cultural activities. Various leisure activities for both children and adults orientated towards learning and the assimilation of personal values, including puppet shows, passacaglias and children’s themed parties.
Medina. This large wetland close to Jerez is one of the best reserves in Cádiz for birdwatching, particularly for ducks, flamingos, gulls, grebes and small wetland birds. The threatened Red-knobbed Coot, which breeds here, is one of the jewels of this reserve.
resource inventories, design and signposting of trails and the preparation of field guides and educational materials. Material/equipment provided • Workbooks for school children • All other material necessary for the relevant activities: sports equipment, binoculars, etc. • Information leaflets Languages English Open All year round, except summer in the mountains of Jerez de la Frontera
• Environmental education. Principally workshops for school children and 82
• Company activities. As part of its worker incentive programme, Genatur offers multi-adventure, sport and wildlife, motivation games, relaxation techniques and workshops. • Environmental consultancy. Environmental projects, environmental impact assessments, natural and cultural
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14000 • Andalusia Natural Park Brand Contact details Turismo Rural Genatur SCA Polígono Industrial Guadalquivir, nave 36 11408 Jerez de la Frontera (Cádiz) Tel.: 956 31 60 00 / 630 91 45 45 genatur@genatur.com comercial@genatur.com www.genatur.com
CASA RURAL LA TAGARNINA Medina Sidonia, one of the oldest settlements in southern Andalusia, was founded by Pheonician colonists arriving from the distant Mediterranean city of Sidon. It overlooks the Bay of Cádiz and since its foundation has been a veritable melting-pot of cultures, from the Phoenicians, Arabs and Romans, right down to the Visigoths, all of whom left still-discernable traces of their presence on the towns’ architecture and cultural heritage. The strategic position of Medina Sidonia permits the traveller to enjoy not only the mountains that form a fine backdrop, but also to sunbathe on the wonderful local beaches of El Palmar, Los Caños de Meca and Bolonia, blessed by crystal-clear waters and fine sand, and only short car-ride away. For those wishing to venture a little further afield, the beaches of Tarifa, Rota and Chipiona, as well as the towns of Jerez and Sanlúcar de Barrameda, are also within striking distance. Nevertheless, even without leaving the municipality it Accommodation type Class 1 rural guesthouse, shared accommodation
is still easy to enjoy the wildlife of the nearby mountains by walking, cycling or riding any one of the drover’s-roads, paths and trails that criss-cross the area. The restoration of the house — a former flour mill — carried out in 2002 was respectful of its original thick walls, wooden beams and courtyard with well, and also revealed a number of features such as brick arches hidden by previous reforms that were incorporated into the house’s décor. The dining room — room used also for socialising and relaxing — and the pleasant courtyard are spaces where guests can rest, talk or broaden their knowledge of the Natural Park by reading any of the publications that are available. Access to seven of the nine rooms is from the stairs leading up from the courtyard, while the other two open directly on to the patio. La Tagarnina takes its name from a thistle that, when in season, can be picked and stripped of its
Languages English, German and French
visitor services and activities • Information and publications about the Natural Park and local region. • Library. • Local products on sale.
prickles and other tough fibres, and then cooked with eggs in a revuelto or used as an ingredient in a stew. These and other succulent local dishes can be tasted in the many restaurants in the town. Breakfast at La Tagarnina is the time to taste the rich organic olive oil from the Cádiz mountains, and the owners also offer guests the possibility of buying hand-made products from the Natural Park.
Facilities • Bar service • Good access for people with reduced mobility to communal areas and one of the bedrooms • Wi-Fi • TV in rooms • Courtyard
Open All year round Price Double room (with breakfast): 85 €
Location Medina Sidonia (Cádiz) C/Moritos, 10 Coordinates: 36º 27’38.90”N, 5º 55’45.07”W Capacity 9 rooms, sleeping 18
Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 956 42 30 67 contacto@latagarnina.com, alberto@latagarnina.com www.latagarnina.com LOS ALCORNOCALES NATURAL PARK
83
View of the Sierra de Ubrique.
SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK Spanish firs, gorges and caves in a limestone labyrinth The mountains of Grazalema are the first barrier that the wet-weather systems that rush in off the Atlantic meet as they advance into the Iberian Peninsula; as they are forced to rise and become trapped by the peaks of the Natural Park, the rain-laden clouds release sufficient rainfall to make this area one of the wettest in the whole of Spain. As a result, the limestone rock of this range has been sculpted into one of the most spectacular karst landscapes in the whole of Spain, replete with plunging gorges and one of the most extensive cave and underground river systems in Andalusia. Alongside this rugged karstified landscape the other great attractions of this Natural Park are the Spanish Fir forest in the Sierra del Pinar, the area’s hugely diverse flora and the numerous white towns and villages steeped in Moorish tradition. n the eastern-most sector of the Sierras Béticas, straddling the border between the provinces of Cádiz and Málaga, lies the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, an area of stark rugged relief littered with spectacular limestone peaks. The travellers who venture into these mountains often get the impression that the peaks that surround them are much loftier than they really are. The high point, Pico Torreón, reaches only a relatively modest 1,654 m, but the Sierra del Pinar to which it belongs has all the trappings of a truly imposing mountain chain. This false impression is engendered above all by the abrupt nature of the terrain, with an altitudinal difference of over 1,300 m separating Torreón and the lowest point of the Natural Park, the town of El Bosque, situated at just 290 m. Even so, this complex web of ridges is not the main claim to fame of the park, since it is much better known as the wettest part of the whole of Spain. The first obstacle that the wet-weather systems that sweep in off the Atlantic and Gulf of Cádiz meet is none other than this mass of mountains, which forces the clouds to rise, thus provoking what are often incredibly violent storms. In the wettest part of these sierras the average annual rainfall is over 2,200 mm/m2, although this figure may double in the wettest years such as 1963, when over 4,300 mm/m2 fell on the town of Grazalema. Nevertheless, despite such rain, the Sierra de Grazalema has no major rivers and most of the rivers that do flow through these mountains only do so for part of the year. The explanation of this
I
paradox lies underground, where veritable subterranean rivers flow fed by the rainwater that filters through the highly karstified terrain, which is also dotted with numerous springs and natural fountains. Back on the surface, the northern and western sectors of the park belong to the basin of the river Guadalete, which rises near the town of Grazalema, and then flows through the Zahara-El Gastor reservoir before entering the Atlantic near El Puerto de Santa María (Cádiz). The three rivers of the western sector — El Bosque, Tavizna and Ubrique — flow into the reservoir of Los Hurones, from where the river Majaceite continues on to join the Guadalete, albeit beyond the limits of the Natural Park. Sierra del Pinar and Garganta Verde: at the heart of the park At the very heart of the Grazalema Natural Park lie the Sierras del Pinar, Zafalgar, Labradillo and Monte Prieto. The peaks, flanks and gullies of these mountains conform a vast north-facing cirque and are the most valuable natural area of the park, and as such have been accorded the highest level of protection. The steep slopes — known locally as Las Caídas — of the north face of the Sierra del Pinar are covered by the famous Spanish Fir forest and the tongues of long scree slopes, which tower over two deep canyons, La Garganta Seca and La Garganta Verde. The latter of the two is the more accessible and has been carved out by a torrential stream — Arroyo Bocaleones — that has created a gorge with SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK
85
sheer walls of over 400 m in height. When this stream only carries a little water (most flows underground), the canyon can be walked, although this is somewhat less advisable in rainy periods. A path begins at the col of El Acebuche, on the road between the towns of Grazalema and Zahara de la Sierra, and then plunges down into the depths of this enormous scar towards a hidden, but still large, cave known as La Ermita. Limestone rock formations and walls decorated with an implausible mix of colours (due to the dissolution of the salts in the rocks) await the walker; from here, however, only those well versed in canyoning can progress any further. Amongst caves, caverns and canyons The geological importance of this Natural Park is beyond doubt. With almost 8 km of galleries and 200 m of descent, the Hundidero-Gato cave-system, north-east of the town of Montejaque (Málaga), is the most extensive in the whole of Andalusia, and is home to the underground section of the river Gaduares. Nearby stands the dam of the Montejaque reservoir, built in 1925 and then one of the first large dams ever to be built in Spain. Unfortunately it never ever filled up since the water filtered through the limestone rocks towards the enormous mouth of the Hundidero cave, inside which the remains of the structures constructed to try and prevent the filtration can still be seen. After 4.5 subterranean kilometres, the river flows out of the Cueva de Gato, another cave, and then soon after merges with the river Guadiaro. Inside the gorge of La Garganta Verde.
86
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
View of the Sierra del Pinar, home to Grazalema’s Spanish Fir forest.
One of the most evocative landscapes in the park is the Sierra del Endrinal, south of the town of Grazalema. This mountainscape consists of a circular tabular relief, heavily karstified, but with relatively gentle slopes and surrounded by steep cliffs of up to 200 m in height. In this landscape, the exposed patches of still actively eroding limestone pavements alternate with areas of pasture, and visitors will delight in the many weird and wonderful karstic forms and features that dot this landscape. Like the Sierra del Endrinal, the Sierras del Caíllo and Ubrique can also proudly boast towering cliff-faces and deep gorges. The best known are El Salto del Cabrero (‘Goat-herd’s Leap’), north of Benaocaz, and El Saltadero, east of Ubrique. South of the Sierra del Caíllo extends a long depression known as La Manga de Villaluenga (literally ‘the sleeve’), adorned with suggestive landscapes that can be easily admired from the road from Villaluenga del Rosario to Benaocaz, which passes through its midst. Dolines — depression produced when the roof of an underground cavern collapses due to continuous erosion — are another typical karstic formation. They are very common in this area and in some cases over the centuries have joined to form depressions of much greater dimensions, known as poljes. The best such example in the Natural Park is the polje of Líbar, the largest in the park (4.3 x 1.5 km) and site of the cave of the same name. On a trail that leads from near the village of Villaluenga del Rosario, walkers can appreciate the peace and quiet of the polje of Los Llanos del Republicano.
such forests in the world are in the nearby Serranía de Ronda and Sierra Bermeja, both in the province of Málaga, and the Rif mountains in Morocco. Despite being well adapted to a Mediterranean climate, the pinsapo requires high rainfall and a certain degree of humidity to survive, and only finds these conditions above 1,000 m on shady northor west-facing slopes. Aside from the Sierra del Pinar, in the Natural Park there are a few other stands of these singular firs in the sierras of Zafalgar, Endrinal and Margarita, as well as single trees scattered here and there throughout much of the park.
The Spanish Fir forest in the Sierra del Pinar.
The pinsapo, the Spanish Fir The pinsapar or Spanish Fir forest is the most significant woodland in the park, as much due to its status as a relict of the former forests of the area, as for its excellent state of conservation. Moreover, the sharp contrast between the dark green foliage of the pinsapos and the pale colour of the jagged limestone rocks produces a highly photogenic effect. The name pinsapo comes from the Latin pinus-sapinus meaning ‘pine-fir’. Although scientifically it is classified as a fir, local people refer to it as a pine, hence the name Sierra del Pinar of the ridge where it grows. Aside from the Grazalema pinsapar, the only other
Holm and Cork Oaks, and Wild Olives The Spanish Fir forest may be the best known forest in the Grazalema area, but they are not the most abundant: this distinction belongs to the Holm Oak forest. On the most inaccessible slopes the Holm Oaks have generally managed to preserve their original shapes, forming dense forests of characteristically shaped trees accompanied by Lentiscs, Hawthorns and genistas. Nonetheless, centuries of traditional forest uses have left the Holm Oak forests reduced to dehesas (wood pastures) in many areas: on north-facing slopes they mix in with Lusitanian Oaks, and even appear above the pinsapar wherever this fir is unable to cope with the drying effects of the easterly winds that blow for much of the summer. In some areas of the park, sandy soils substitute the limestone soils and here appear the Cork Oaks that can only thrive on acidic soils. The undergrowth is dominated by various species of heather, rock-rose, as well as Myrtles and diverse ferns. Here too grow extensions of Wild Olive, Carob, Lentisc and Dwarf Fan Palms, amongst other tree and shrub species. The floral variety of these sierras is enormous and over 1,300 species of plant have been recorded. Of these, seven are endemic to the park and almost 50 are Iberian endemics. The entire world population of the Grazalema Poppy (Papaver rupifragum) is restricted to the Sierras del
Examples of the flora and fauna of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. From left to right: Lentisc, Grazalema Poppy, Bonelli’s Eagle and Griffon Vultures.
SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK
87
PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND PUBLIC FACILITIES Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park • Date declared. 12 February 1985 • Surface area. 53,411 ha • Provinces. Cádiz and Málaga • Municipalities. CÁDIZ: Algodonales, Benaocaz, El Bosque, El Gastor, Grazalema, Prado del Rey, Ubrique, Villaluenga del Rosario, Zahara de la Sierra. MÁLAGA: Benaoján, Cortes de la Frontera, Jimera de Líbar, Montejaque, Ronda • ECST accreditation. 2004 • Other types of protection. Biosphere Reserve, Special Protection Area for Birds, Site of Community Importance • Contact details Avda. de la Diputación, s/n, 11670 El Bosque (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 70 97 03 pn.grazalema.cma@juntadeandalucia.es Go to Ventana del Visitante at www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente vISITOR FACILITIES CORTES DE LA FRONTERA VISITOR CENTRE The town of Cortes de la Frontera (Málaga province) is situated strategically right where the natural parks of Sierra de Grazalema and Los Alcornocales meet. The town’s visitor centre provides information on the natural values of both these parks and of the nearby Sierra de las Nieves. As well, it describes the impact of human society on the landscape and the role played by water in modelling the geomorphological structures and vegetation of these mountains. • Location and contact details. C/ Jacaranda, 1, on corner of Avda. de la Democracia, Cortes de la Frontera (Málaga). Tel.: 952 15 45 99 • Services. Audiovisual room, shop selling publications, fair-trade goods and products with the Andalusia Natural Park Brand. • Opening times. All year round. Thursday: 1014; Friday: 16-18 (July-September, also 19-21); Saturday and Sunday: 10-14 and 16-18 (JulySeptember, 19-21) • Access for people with reduced mobility EL BOSQUE VISITOR CENTRE Situated in the town of El Bosque (province of Cádiz), this centre provides an introduction to the wonderful landscapes of Sierra de Grazalema, with its Mediterranean landscapes and unique Spanish Fir forests. Likewise, the centre also provides a view of the role humans have played in moulding the landscape and the importance of rivers and streams in the dynamics of local ecosystems. 88
• Location and contact details. C/ Federico García Lorca, 1, El Bosque (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 72 70 29 • Services. Exhibition and audiovisual rooms, shop selling publications, fair-trade goods and products with the Andalusia Natural Park Brand. • Opening times. All year round. Monday-Friday: 10-14 and 17-19; Saturdays: 09-14 and 1719; Sundays: 09-14. • Access for people with reduced mobility
wATER ECOMUSEUM (BENAMAHOMA MILL) Located in one of the numerous flour mills that once existed in this region, this centre illustrates the importance of water in the Natural Park and the use that historically it has been put to (flour and fullling mills, etc.). • Location and contact details. Benamahoma (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 72 71 05. • Opening times. All year round. WednesdaySaturday and public holidays: 10-14 and 16-18 (in summer, 18-20); Sundays: 10-14. • Access for people with reduced mobility ZAHARA DE LA SIERRA INFORMATION POINT Situated in the old centre of the town of Zahara de la Sierra, most of this centre is devoted to the flora of the Natural Park and the Spanish Fir forest. • Location and contact details. Pza. del Rey nº 3, Zahara de la Sierra. Tel.: 956 12 31 14 • Opening times. All year round: 09-14 and 1619 (in summer: 17-20).
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
EL CASTILLEJO BOTANICAL GARDEN This botanical garden is home to many of the species of the most characteristic plant communities of the Ronda Biogeographical Region, which stretches from the Sierra de Grazalema as far as Sierra de Loja (Granada), and also includes the whole of the Serranía de Ronda and Sierra Bermeja. Many endemic plants are on display, including the Spanish Fir. • Location and contact details. El Bosque (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 71 61 34
• Opening times. All year round. April-May and September-October: 10-14 and 17-20; JuneAugust: 10-14 and 18-21; rest of year: 10-14 and 15.30-18.30. • Access for people with reduced mobility RECREATIONAL FACILITIES PICNIC SITES • Cintillo and Aguas Nuevas, in Benaocaz (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility.
• Las Covezuelas, in Villaluenga del Rosario (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Los Cañitos, in El Bosque (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Los Llanos del Campo, in Grazalema (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. VIEwPOINTS • Cintillo and Aguas Nuevas, in Benaocaz (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Puerto de las Palomas, in Grazalema (Cádiz). • Puerto de los Acebuches, in Grazalema (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. • Puerto del Boyar, in Grazalema (Cádiz). Access for people with reduced mobility. PAThS AND TRAILS A network of 20 waymarked paths totalling over 90 km exists in the park, of which the following are some of the best for those wishing to explore this protected area: • The Pinsapar (Spanish Fir forest). This path coincides with the old trail that ran from Grazalema and Benamahoma, and climbs up the north side of the Sierra del Pinar, from where there are spectacular views of the towns of Grazalema and Ronda, and the mountains of Sierra de las Nieves and Sierra Nevada. Nevertheless, the main attraction of this path is the fact that it enters into the heart of the pinsapar, the Spanish Fir forest, here mixed in with numerous ancient Lusitanian Oaks. Permits available in advance from the park offices are needed to walk this path, since it passes through the most strictly protected part of the Natural Park. Length: 16 km. Time: 7-8 h. • La Garganta Verde. La Garganta Verde (literally, the ‘Green Throat’!) is a spectacular gorge, carved out by the waters of a stream, Arroyo Bocaleones, which ends in a cave known as La Ermita. Its walls are used by numerous Griffon Vultures as a breeding site; permits available in advance from the park offices are needed to walk this path, since it passes through the most strictly protected part of the Natural Park. Length: 2.3 km. Time: 4 h. A very difficult path due to the long climb involved. • Río Majaceite. A path that connects the towns of Benamahoma and El Bosque along the banks of the river Majaceite. The whole walk benefits from the cooling effect of the waters of the river and the shade offered by the
verdant gallery vegetation. Length: 4.2 km. Time: 2 h. • Llanos de Líbar. This trail passes through a spectacular karstified landscape dotted with Holm Oaks, where cattle graze all year round. It eventually reaches the large plain known as the Llanos de Líbar, which is surrounded by tall limestone peaks. Length: 10 km. Time 5-6 h.
OThER FACILITIES MONTEJAQUE INFORMATION POINT AND SPELEOLOGY INTERPRETATION CENTRE This centre illustrates the importance of karstic processes in the landscapes, the relationship between humans and the caves and the techniques used in speleological explorations. Montejaque (Málaga).
HIGUERÓN DE TAVIZNA FIELD STUDY CENTRE Environmental education and other activities are carried out in this centre, which also has accommodation (see data sheet in this guide). El Bosque to Ubrique road, km 7, Benaocaz (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 72 59 50
Tel.: 952 16 71 96 / 952 16 75 51 www.montejaque.es LOS PINSAPOS BOTANICAL GARDEN Municipal-owned space devoted to the flora of the Sierra de Grazalema. Zahara de la Sierra (Cádiz). Tel.: 956 12 30 04 www.zaharadelasierra.es El Gastor
3 Zahara de la Sierra
Embalse de Zahara
1
Cortes de la Frontera Visitor Centre
2
El Bosque Visitor Centre
JB A-374
El Castillejo Botanical Garden
3
Zahara de la Sierra Information Point
4
Water Ecomuseum
A-373
Prado del Rey 4
JB 2
Grazalema
Benamahoma
El Bosque
A-372
A-372
Ronda
Montejaque
A-373
A-2302
Benaoján
Benaocaz Embalse de los Hurones
Villaluenga del Rosario Ubrique
Jimera de Líbar Atajate
A-373 1 Cortes de la Frontera
A-369 Benadalid
0
5 A-2304
Benalauria 10
15
km SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK
89
View of the cliffs at Salto del Cabrero from the Puerto del Boyar.
View of Zahara de la Sierra; in the background, Peñón del Gastor.
Pinar, El Endrinal and El Caíllo, and the Rif mountains in Morocco. This species grows in the cracks in the limestone rocks and, despite having very attractive — but fragile — deep orange petals, is hard to find since it only flowers for a very brief period of time. Another endemic species is Recoder’s Geranium (Erodium recoderi), only found on Cerro de Tavizna near Montejaque and Puerto de las Palomas in Grazalema. The park also has a very rich and varied population of orchids.
The attraction of the ‘white villages’ Evidence of human settlement in the area dates back to the Palaeolithic Era and one of the most significant of all Iberian cave art sites is that of La Pileta, in which, aside from important Palaeolithic and Neolithic archaeological remains, over 3,000 cave paintings have been found. The Romans built their villas, fortresses and aqueducts here, and some of their remains — for example, the walls, houses, necropolis, roads and baths of Ocuri (near Ubrique at a site known as El Salto de la Mora) — have survived to the present day. The Moors also left behind a vast number of buildings, generally defensive towers and castles, of which the Nasrid castle of Aznalmara, conquered by the Christians in the fifteen century, stands out — literally — from its perch on top of the crag overlooking the river Tavizna. From the same period dates the castle of Zahara, with a look-out tower that presides over the village of the same name. One of the most patent of all legacies of the Moorish period are the toponyms of the towns, rivers and places that dot the maps of this corner of the province of Cádiz: Benaocaz, Benaoján, Benamahoma, Zahara, Grazalema, Guadalete, Guadalcacín, Guadiaro and Zafalgar are all names of Moorish origin. In all, 14 municipalities belonging to the provinces of Cádiz and Málaga form part of the Natural Park. Ronda and Ubrique are the largest, although their actual town centres are outside the park limits. Within the park boundaries, Grazalema, with over 2,000 inhabitants, is the largest settlement and an excellent example of the nature of the ‘white towns’ that are scattered around these mountains, splashes of white standing out from the dark green of the vegetation and the grey of the limestone rock that surrounds them.
Bats in the caves and raptors on the rocks Around 180 species of vertebrate breed in the park and, along with Los Alcornocales Natural Park, this park harbours the greatest diversity of mammals in Andalusia (42 species). Of great interest is the abundance of small and medium-sized carnivores such as, Egyptian Mongoose, Beech Marten and Genet; Otters, Weasels and Badgers are also present but are somewhat less common. Larger mammals include Iberian Ibex and Roe Deer, at home, respectively, on the park’s rocky crags and wooded hillsides. The park can also boast a significant diversity of bat species, amongst which stand out the horseshoe bats (genus Rhinolophus), which find the park’s many caves perfect spots to breed and to hibernate. In the Hundidero-Gato cave system, over 100,000 Schreiber’s Bats (Miniopterus schreibersii) have been found to hibernate, which is possibly the largest colony of the species in Spain. Around 100 bird species of bird breed in the park, of which the cliff-breeding raptors are probably the most eye-catching. With 50 or so known breeding sites, the Grazalema mountains contain one of the best populations of Griffon Vultures in Europe. Equally significant, but more due to the negative tendencies in their populations, are the park’s breeding pairs of Egyptian Vulture and Bonelli’s Eagle. 90
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
AULA DE LA NATURALEZA HIGUERÓN DE TAVIZNA The Higuerón de Tavizna Nature Study Centre is an project run by the Buenavista Andalusian Co-operative, which also runs an educational farm near Arcos de la Frontera and a shop selling organic produce in Jerez de la Frontera. Higuerón de Tavizna is situated in the heart of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, between the towns of El Bosque and Ubrique, and is primarily a centre for environmental education, focussing principally on extracurricular activities for children, although it also works with families and groups of adults. The recently constructed buildings that comprise the centre are equipped with facilities to accommodate 60 people, full board, with plenty of room left over in which to run the educational programmes on offer. During term time, Higuerón de Tavizna organises activity programmes of one or two days’duration, but during the school holidays the centre opens its doors to children for longer periods, by way of summer camps. Apart from getting to know the environment, enjoying the countryside and having fun, the children visitor services and activities • School-children. The Higuerón de Tavizna Nature Study Centre organises residential programmes of one or more days’duration during term time, as well as summer camps in the holidays, both of which provide a range of environmental education and multi-adventure courses and games. • Programmes for adults. Group activities for families, businesses and associations combine learning about the environment with enjoying the countryside and cultural heritage of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. Games and workshops are adapted to the requirements of each group.
will learn about Grazalema’s greatest natural treasure — the Spanish Fir (pinsapo) — because a small copse of around 30 trees was planted near the centre by volunteers some years back. They will also learn at first hand about the problems facing one of the park’s commonest birds of prey, the Griffon Vulture. A small aviary on site harbours several individuals of this magnificent carrion-eater, donated by various wildlife recuperation centres, none of which is fit to be returned to the wild. Among the remarkable artefacts that can be seen at the nature study centre are a renovated lime-kiln and an old adobe bread oven, which is occasionally still put to good use. Of even greater interest is the fact that families visiting Higuerón de Tavizna at weekends can participate in one of the many thematic courses that are organised ever year. Popular courses include autumn fruits, in which participants can make their own preserves and drinks, and another about typical foodstuffs of these mountains, with practical sessions in which participants make
• Thematic courses. These generally take place in the autumn, and consist of practical workshops in which participants can, for example, make jams, drinks, cheeses, etc., be trained in basic astronomy or wildlife photography, or explore one of the villages of the region to learn about its cultural heritage.
Material/equipment provided • Sleeps 65 • Dining room • Workshops • Recreation room (with open fire)
• Swimming pool • Shop selling organic produce • Fixed flying fox • Climbing wall for beginners • Abseiling wall • Autumn workshop. This programme, promoted by the Andalusian Government’s Department of the Environment, is aimed at professionals and others who work in the field of environmental education.
cheeses and sausages. Astronomy, wildlife photography and courses about aromatic and medicinal plants are other topics of interest.
Languages English and German
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14001 • Park Information Point
Contact details El Bosque to Ubrique road (A-373), km 24 11612 Benaocaz (Cádiz) Tel.: 956 72 58 49 / 956 72 59 50 / 648 04 28 77 buenavis2@hotmail.com www.granjaescuela.net
Open All year round SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK
91
HOTEL MOLINO DEL SANTO Since time immemorial, one of the principal claims to fame of the mountain ranges of western Málaga has been their ability to yield olive oil of superlative quality. Witness to this oil-producing tradition are the numerous oil mills that are scattered across these ranges, many of which are no longer in use, but which confer an undoubted charm and cultural value on the region. After 150 years in production, and following a painstaking renovation project, one of these old oil mills — also used for grinding cereals — was converted into the country hotel of El Molino del Santo, which opened its doors in 1987. Because the renovators took pains to conserve many of the original structural components of the building, each and every part of the hotel pays homage to the memory of the mill. The ancient millstones have been retained as decorative elements, hidden alcoves — where the millers secreted oil for sale on the black market — have been adapted as store rooms, the old oil-press has been converted for use as a kitchen, and the former oil storage area is today Accommodation type Two-star rural hotel visitor services and activities • Information about the area. • Organisation of courses (ornithology, wine tasting, etc.). • Sale of locally produced honey, cheeses, sausages, etc.
part of the restaurant. Even the old bread oven has been converted into a comfortable hotel room. The grounds of the hotel also reveal the proprietors’ desire to attend to their guests’every need, harbouring gardens full of charming nooks and crannies, in which to read or peacefully contemplate the delightful scenery that surrounds the hotel, soothed by the murmur of Los Cascajales, a spring that — after rising in the heart of the mountains — cascades down the terraces of the property. The kitchens of El Molino del Santo are another constant source of pleasure for the visitor, with offerings ranging from the most delicious local sausages to sophisticated desserts, such as crème brulée. Almost all the foodstuffs employed in the kitchens are derived from fair-trade commerce in the local area. The company has made an undeniable commitment to both quality and sustainability, which can be seen not only in the official endorsements that it has received, but also in the fact that no less than 70% of waste materials produced are recycled, and because
Capacity • 18 double rooms, sleeping 36 • 50-cover restaurant (100 covers if the terraces are included)
it uses solar energy to heat its water. These efforts have been recognised by numerous awards, both national and international, for tourism excellence and the best correlation between price and quality. El Molino del Santo also offers its guests the opportunity to participate in weekly birdwatching excursions (between March and November).
• Access for people with limited mobility to the communal areas, restaurant and one adapted room.
Languages English, German and French Location Benaoján (Málaga) Barriada de la Estación, s/n Coordinates: 36º 42’46.80”N, 5º 14’59.96”W
Open From the end of February to November Facilities • Bar-cafeteria • Restaurant • Garden with heated swimming pool and terrace • Conference room • Library • Laundry service • Free Wi-Fi in the rooms and public areas • Terraces in the rooms • Car park
92
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Prices Double room with breakfast (three types of rooms): 120, 170 y 190 €/night. Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14001 • Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 952 16 71 51 / 952 16 72 16 info@molinodelsanto.com www.molinodelsanto.com
HOTEL RURAL ENRIQUE CALVILLO & CR CASA DEL HUERTO, RANCHO CALVILLO, LA ESTANCIA & LA CASITA The original name of this establishment was Pensión Las Siete Villas Hermanas, a homage to the seven villages of the mountains of Cádiz, although nowadays it is called after its founder, Enrique Calvillo. Built in the 1970s, it was the first establishment to offer tourist accommodation in El Bosque. A quiet mountain village of whitewashed houses, El Bosque is surrounded by magnificent scenery and is an ideal starting point from which to explore the Grazalema Natural Park. Located in the heart of the village, the hotel is divided into two levels, the ground floor housing the bar and three dining rooms, where the traveller can enjoy the finest culinary treats that these mountains have to offer: trout from the river Majaceite, game, and frangollo (a time-honoured recipe based on maize meal). To support the local economy, home-produced artisan and gastronomic merchandise such as cheeses and cured pork products is on sale in the bar, soon to be accompanied by a range of organic produce awarded the Andalusia Natural Park Brand. Accommodation type One-star rural hotel Simple self-catering accommodation (4 houses) visitor services and activities • Information about the park in the hotel and in the self-catering accommodation. This also includes details of the companies that offer activities in the region. • The company liaises with the Natural Park’s reservations centre in order to obtain the permits required to gain access to certain routes. • Pets are welcome. Languages English
The bedrooms are located on the first floor, as is the lounge-library, which contains a good deal of information about the Natural Park. Travellers who favour a more intimate atmosphere in direct contact with nature may prefer to stay in one of the four self-catering casas rurales, all of which are easily accessible from El Bosque. The building that houses the Rancho Calvillo Casa Rural is more than a hundred years old and, although little of the
Location • Hotel Rural: Avda. de la Diputación, 5 El Bosque (Cádiz) • CR La Casita, CR La Estancia, CR Casa del Huerto: just outside the village of El Bosque Coordinates: 36º 45’47.11”N, 5º 31’53.66”W • CR Rancho Calvillo: 6 km from El Bosque, on the road between Prado del Rey and Zahara de la Sierra Coordinates: 36º 48’51.16”N, 5º 31’53.66”W Capacity • Hotel: 22 rooms, sleeping 44 • CR Casa del Huerto: 4 rooms, sleeping 9 • CR Rancho Calvillo: 2 rooms, sleeping 4 • CR La Casita: 2 rooms, sleeping 4 • CR La Estancia: 1 room, sleeping 2 • 150-cover restaurant Facilities Hotel Rural • Bar and restaurant, offering gastronomy typical of the region • Lounge with open fire and library • Two computers in the library, connected to the internet • Wi-Fi in rooms
original structure remains, the enormously thick walls were preserved during its restoration. El Huerto and La Estancia are the result of the refurbishment of an old country dwelling whose original livestock quarters now comprise one of the self-catering cottages for let. The authentic flagstone floors are complemented by many decorative elements that have been inherited from the original owners or acquired in antique shops, thus creating a traditional and welcoming ambience. Although La Casita was built recently, its design closely follows the traditional architectural style of the region. Before guests arrive, they will be contacted by the company to sound out their preferences and interests, on the basis of which they will be sent (by email) a selection of information about thematic routes, monuments, walking trails, wildlife and scenery, as well as maps: in short, anything that might serve to enhance their stay. The company is also able to organise the permits for certain trails in the Natural Park that require prior authorisation, providing guests let the company know well in advance.
• Access for people with limited mobility to the communal areas of the hotel, the restaurant and to some specially adapted rooms • TV in rooms
Open All year round Prices • Hotel Rural: double room (with breakfast): 50 € • CR La Estancia: 58 € • CR Casa del Huerto: 125 € • CR Rancho Calvillo: 125 € • CR La Casita: 80 €
Official endorsements Hotel Rural • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point CR La Estancia & CR Casa del Huerto • ‘Q’ quality tourism label • Park Information Point CR La Casita • Park Information Point CR Rancho Calvillo • ‘Q’ quality tourism label • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 956 71 61 05 / 678 65 69 48 calvillo@sierradecadiz.com www.hotelenriquecalvillo.com SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK
93
MOLINO DE ABAJO The town of El Bosque, in the north-east of the province of Cádiz, is home to a small architectural gem: an eighteenth-century mill, with its original structure in a perfect state of repair, which still works in just the same way as it did hundreds of years ago. The inhabitants of the municipality of El Bosque have always been farmers or foresters and today a goodly part of this region lies within the Sierra de Grazalema and Los Alcornocales Natural Parks. In times past, the countless springs and streams that rise in the mountains hereabouts were harnessed to drive the numerous flour mills of the area. The practice of milling has long been a distinctive feature of this region. Until the 1960s, many were the folk who turned up at the mill, from the nearby farmhouses and villages, to exchange news while the mill did its work. The mill was an important gathering place, where many stories were recounted, including one that the old folks still delight in telling today: it seems that during the rationing that followed the Civil War, the mill was dismantled and was only alvisitor services and activities • Interpretative visit. As this is a working mill, visitors have the opportunity to observe how each part of the machinery operates. A guide will accompany the group throughout the visit.
lowed to be used by officials of the National Wheat Service (Servicio Nacional del Trigo). In defiance of this rule, the most daring villagers, however, set up the millstones at night to mill small quantities of wheat and then dismantled them before sunrise. El Molino de Abajo has been converted into a living museum, and can be visited while it is in operation. After watching the enormous stones grind the wheat, visitors are able to make their own bread from the resultant flour. While the dough is rising and the bread is cooked, there is time to take a stroll through the Botanic Garden of El Castillejo and to visit the Interpretation Centre of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. At the end of this workshop, visitors might also enjoy walking the 5-km trail — known as the Camino del Río — that runs between El Bosque and Benamahoma. Visits to El Molino de Abajo should be
• Workshop. Aside from inspecting the mill, visitors can also make their own bread, starting with the grinding of the wheat and continuing right through to the baking of the dough.
arranged in advance because the workshop will only run with a minimum of 15 people, Before leaving El Bosque, its flour mill and its river, be sure to visit the shop at El Molino de Abajo, which carries a wide range of artisan goods and local produce, including some that have been awarded the Andalusia Natural Park Brand.
Facilities Conference/meeting room Languages English
Open All year round Contact details Molino de Abajo s/n. 11670 El Bosque (Cádiz) Tel.: 956 71 62 19 / 658 84 57 61 info@elmolinodeabajo.com www.elmolinodeabajo.com
94
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
HORIZON AVENTURA Encouraged by the wealth of opportunities available in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, in 1994 two teachers from the Andalusian High Mountain/Mountaineering School founded Horizon Aventura, which offers a diverse range of activities with an emphasis on adventure sports. A team of outdoor sports professionals carefully designs each adventure activity until it is felt to be suitable not only for groups of ten people, but for two hundred. In response to the increasing demand from companies wishing to bring their staff for a weekend of team-building sports and adventures in the countryside, a new branch of the company has been created: Horizon Activa. Among the activities on offer to sports and adventure lovers are 4WD routes, canyoning, para-gliding, caving and rock-climbing courses, all of which take place amid the spectacular scenery and imposing geological formations of the Sierra de Grazalema. Horizon Aventura also offers multi-adventure courses, which take place in their new centre, Akinda, in the village of Grazalema itself.
For people who enjoy walking, the company offers guided excursions along some of the park’s most emblematic trails, such as the high-level route through the Spanish Fir forest (El Pinsapar), across the Sierra del Endrinal, or the shady walk beside the
visitor services and activities • Adventure sports. Canyoning, caving and rock-climbing courses, which take place in the Garganta Verde, Las Buitreras and El Susto and El Gato cave systems. • 4WD routes. During the course of the itinerary, frequent stops are made to explain the scenic and cultural heritage of the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park. • Walking. Along the park’s most idiosyncratic trails.
El Bosque river. And almost anyone who visits the village of Grazalema will wish to visit Horizon’s shop, where they can find out about the activities on offer, or purchase walking or mountaineering equipment.
Material/equipment provided Specialised equipment appropriate to the activity in question.
Languages English and German
• Multi-adventure courses. In the Akinda centre, in Grazalema, Horizon offers courses in rock-climbing, abseiling, flying fox, archery, canoeing, para-gliding and orienteering. • Activities for companies. In addition to organising conferences, meetings, etc., Horizon offers companies other activities, outside the natural park.
Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point
Open All year round
Contact details C/ Corrales Terceros, 29 (bajo) 11610 Grazalema (Cádiz) Tel.: 956 13 23 63 info@horizonaventura.com www.horizonaventura.com SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK
95
POSADA DEL FRESNO Towards the end of the nineteenth century, because the wild mountain ranges around Ronda were a notorious haunt of brigands, a barracks was constructed in the region. The Civil Guards who were billeted here were charged with combating the activities of those highwaymen — for some reason viewed in a rather romantic light today — so that travellers might pass safely through the region. A century later, the barracks was converted into the country guesthouse of Posada del Fresno, steeped in the history of the picturesque village of Montejaque, whose labyrinth of narrow, winding streets and white-washed houses takes visitors back to the Moorish origins of the settlement, which was built in a strategic location between the Sierra de Grazalema and the river Guadiaro. During the three-year restoration project, the proprietors — Romi and Ángel — were able to convert the old barracks into a calm and peaceful resting place for travellers exploring these mountains. The friendly, informal atmosphere of the four comfortable rooms extends to all four corners of the guesthouse, Accommodation type Superior guesthouse, shared accommodation.
which has been charmingly remodelled and decorated, not only respecting the original elements of its construction, but also adapting them to the needs of present-day travellers. Thanks to this combination, guests nowadays can relax in the spa. The menu offered by the guesthouse has been carefully selected, featuring home-made dishes typical of the region. The well-stocked library contains many publications about the Natural Park, such that guests will find all the information they need here in order to plan their activities and enjoy their stay. In addition, the proprietors are very knowledgeable about the area, especially the speleological possibilities, as they have contributed to several informative publications about caving, and also collaborate actively with the Montejaque Speleology Interpretation Centre, which guests can visit free of charge. For keen birdwatchers, Ángel has designed six itineraries around the guesthouse, intended to introduce visitors to the local fauna. As members of the Andalusian Federation of Speleology and the Ronda branch of the Spanish Or-
Languages Catalan, English, French and Italian Location Montejaque (Málaga) C/ Miguel de Cervantes, 2 Coordinates: 36º 44’ 4.78” N, 5º 15’ 6.32” W
Facilities • Library • TV and DVD • Spa • Meals and dining room • Wi-Fi • Courtyard
Capacity 4 rooms, sleeping 8
Open All year round
visitor services and activities • Information about walking, birdwatching, geological and speleological itineraries and activities. • Documentation about the area for guests (maps, literature, etc.). • Traditional home cooking, including dishes typical of the region and Mediterranean cuisine. • Spa and massage service. • Pets are welcome. 96
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
nithological Society (SEO-BirdLife), the proprietors of Posada del Fresno contribute to both the understanding and promulgation of the natural heritage of these mountains.
Prices Double room (with breakfast): 60 € Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Commitment to Quality Tourism Label • Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 952 16 75 44 / 649 97 29 79 posadadelfresno@terra.es www.posadadelfresno.com
HUERTA DEL TAJO The Huerta del Tajo lies at the foot of the spectacular Puente Nuevo — perhaps the most emblematic monument of the city of Ronda — in the depths of the renowned Tajo de Ronda gorge, whose magnificent scenery has been immortalised in a thousand images. Access to the Huerta del Tajo complex is via a more modest and much newer bridge, spanning the river Guadalevín. An hour-and-a-half’s gentle stroll from Ronda, along the waymarked footpath over the col of Las Muelas, takes walkers to the spectacular El Gato cave system. The Gaduares river rises here, its waters flowing from the mouth of the cave to fill a large pool, in a particularly beautiful setting. A number of waterdriven flour mills can still be found in the surrounding area, some of which are in the process of being restored to their former use today. This route runs right past the accommodation complex of the Huerta del Tajo. Huerta del Tajo, as its name suggests, was originally one of several farmsteads in the bottom of the Accommodation type • The big house: superior self-catering accommodation • The small house: simple self-catering accommodation
gorge, where vegetables and other crops were grown. It consists of two houses, painstakingly renovated over the past three years: not an easy task given that there was no bridge when the works started, and all building materials had to be brought in by wheelbarrow from the river. The restoration works have scrupulously respected the original constructive elements of the houses (thick stone and
Location Ronda (Málaga) Partido Rural los Molinos, nº 12 Coordinates: 36º 7’ 4.16’’ N, 5º 16’ 9.59’’ W
visitor services and activities • Detailed information about Ronda, its environs, local festivals, traditions, etc. • Information about companies offering active tourism in the area. • Collection and transport of guests.
lime walls, wooden beams, artisan clay-tiled floors made in Ronda, pan-tiled roofs, etc.), integrating them harmoniously with more natural elements, in particular stone from the surrounding area. Both houses have been equipped and furnished by local tradesmen. Huerta del Tajo is an establishment with a marked commitment to sustainability, providing its guests with firewood that is guaranteed to have been produced in an environmentally friendly fashion, principally from pruning the surrounding olive groves, and utilising a closed circuit system to take maximum advantage of the heat generated by the open fire. It has also installed a biological water treatment plant, to purify waste water before it is discharged into the river. The proprietors — José María and M.ª del Rosario — have produced informative several leaflets about the rural life and traditions of the Tajo’s past inhabitants (mills, allotments, electricity production, etc.), with the aim of providing their guests with a better understanding of the history of the region.
Facilities • Open fire • TV via satellite • Terrace • Swimming pool • Barbeque • Allotment (with the possibility of picking some of the produce)
Capacity The big house: 3 rooms, sleeping 6 The small house: 1 room, sleeping 2
Open All year round
Languages English and French
Prices • The big house: 120 €/day • The small house: 60 €/day
Official endorsements • Park Information Point • Commitment to Quality Tourism Label Contact details Tel.: 952 87 04 04 / 666 28 17 28 jmjg65@terra.es www.huertadeltajo.com SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK
97
PANGEA This activity tourism company, the first in Málaga, has been offering its services to schoolchildren, individuals and businesses since 2002. Its headquarters are in Ronda, a settlement that straddles a spectacular gorge — the two halves of the town being united by a celebrated bridge — that somehow inspires a sense of adventure in its visitors. Pangea offers three distinct types of activities: Pangea Events, which offers team-building activities for businesses; Pangea Active Nature, which is devoted to adventure activities for the general public; and lastly, Pangea Educa, which runs educational programmes for school children. The activity tourism programme takes place in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park, where the limestone topography is riddled with caves and gorges, while the extensive network of footpaths across the range provides access to such emblematic locales as the Spanish Fir forest (El Pinsapar) and the Llanos de Rabel. Pangea Active Nature takes advantage of these natural riches to provide clients visitor services and activities • Walking. Participants can choose between the most emblematic trails of the park, or go birdwatching along the Majaceite river. Walks can take half a day or be of a full day’s duration.
with the opportunity on the one hand to learn about the landscape or go birdwatching, and on the other to practise more intrepid activities such as canyoning or caving among others. Some of routes can also be followed in 4WD vehicles, stopping at intervals to explore select stretches of Grazalema’s trails on foot. Pangea Events is utilised by companies wishing to provide their staff with the ultimate team-building experience, during which they might take a balloon ride, a 4WD trip across the mountains, or take part in a treasure hunt. Pangea’s horizons are not limited to those of the Grazalema Natural Park, however; the company also offers its services in the neighbouring Los Alcornocales Natural Park in Cádiz, as well as it the Sierra de Las Nieves and Genal valley in Málaga. In fact, clients are invited to explore the length and breadth of Andalusia, where Pangea will organise activities for them in line with the slogan “Just imagine, we’ll do the rest”.
• Canoeing. This activity takes place on the tranquil waters of the Zahara reservoir, set amid magnificent scenery in the northern part of the Grazalema park, at the foot of the spectacular Moorish village of Zahara de la Sierra.
• Speleology. In the cave systems of El Gato, El Hundidero and El Susto, participants will have the chance to swim in subterranean lakes, abseil and admire the magnificent geological formations.
Material/equipment provided • 4WD vehicles • The specialist material required for each activity • Binoculars and field guides for birdwatching Languages English and French Open All year round
• Canyoning. This adventure sport takes place in the Garganta Verde, which is considered to be one of the most stunning gorges in Andalusia.
98
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Multi-adventure routes. Circuits designed so that visitors can take part in a range of exciting activities, including rock climbing, flying fox and archery, among others. • Cultural itineraries. Either in 4WD vehicles, for small groups, or by coach for larger numbers of participants. • Specialised activities for companies. These range from tailor-made team-building exercises to activity pursuits or cultural routes.
Contact details Pasaje de Cayetano, 10 (local D) 29400 Ronda (Málaga) Tel.: 952 87 34 96 / 630 56 27 05 info@pangeacentral.com www.pangeacentral.com
CASA RURAL DEL MUNICIPAL The nameVillaluenga del Rosario refers both to the narrow, elongated shape of the settlement — a necessity imposed by the abrupt topography — and the Virgen of the Rosary, patroness of this village since the seventeenth century, of whom the payoyos — as the residents of the region are called — are staunch devotees. The building that houses the Casa Rural del Municipal is thought to have been constructed by the Moors, prior to 1400 AD. It is also said that it was the quarters of the servants of Rodrigo Ponce de León — Marquis of Cádiz and Duke of Arcos de La Frontera, the conqueror of the mountains of Cádiz in the name of Christianity — after the expulsion of the Moors in 1485. When the Catholic Monarchs granted possession of these mountain ranges to Ponce de León, he established the capital of his domain — the Señorío de las Siete Villas — in Villaluenga, where he himself also chose to reside, in the house that lies next door to the present-day casa rural. Antonio, proprietor of the Casa Rural del Municipal, has an immense knowledge of both the hisAccommodation type Simple self-catering accommodation, whole-house rental only
visitor services and activities The proprietors can put guests in touch with local companies offering activity tourism.
tory and the cultural and natural values of the region, which he is more than happy to share with his guests. In 1998, the Casa Rural del Municipal was refurbished to provide tourist accommodation, faithfully conserving the original elements of its construction
Capacity 2 rooms, sleeping 4
Open All year round
Facilities • Library • Open fire • Barbeque • Fully equipped kitchen • TV • Wi-Fi • Courtyard
Prices The whole house: 90 €/day
— including wooden beams, thick walls and clay floors — and decorated in a traditional manner. The house comprises two floors and a secluded interior courtyard, complete with barbeque and delightfully decorated with pot-plants. The upper storey consists of two bedrooms, while the kitchen and lounge are located on the ground floor. Guests are encouraged to participate in the environmentally aware running of the house by separating their refuse for recycling, including waste cooking oil — from which traditional soaps are made — and the ashes from the fireplace, which are used to fertilise garlic grown by the owners. The proprietors’commitment to environmentally sustainable tourism includes plans to reduce energy consumption, utilise renewable energy sources (solar panels) to run the heating and provide hot water, and implement measures to save water. They are also keen to perfect their knowledge of sign language, so as to be able to provide the best possible service to people with hearing difficulties.
Official endorsements • ‘Q’ quality tourism label • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point
Contact details Tel.: 956 46 34 04 / 636 77 77 36 / 620 40 18 77 lacasadelmuni@hotmail.com info@casadelmunicipal.com www.casadelmunicipal.es
Languages English Location Villaluenga del Rosario (Cádiz) C/Poeta Pérez Clotet, 8 Coordinates: 36º 41’ 49” N, 5º 23’ 11”W SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK
99
AL-QUTUN The Al-Qutun venture started with the establishment of a rural hostel, which it still manages, although almost immediately the team began looking for ways to expand the business. With their considerable depth of experience working with groups, and profound knowledge of the region, Al-Qutun soon established a solid reputation in the world of active tourism and educational and environmental programmes. From the town of Algodonales, Al-Qutun offers no less than seventy distinct activities, complemented by tailor-made programmes, which take place both in the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park and other interesting spots in the province of Cádiz. Because of its privileged location at the foot of the Sierra de Líjar, at the northern entrance to the park, Algodonales is a particularly appropriate centre for airborne activities, which Al-Qutun has made the most of, by incorporating these elements into its programme. Al-Qutun’s hostel was chosen by Greenpeace to celebrate its summer camp in 2009. One of the sugvisitor services and activities • Guided walks. Interpretative trails through the Grazalema Natural Park: the Spanish Fir forest (El Pinsapar), the Llanos de Rabel, the Garganta Verde, the Salto del Cabrero, the Sierra de Líjar and the river Majaceite. • Canoeing. Visitors can paddle gently across the tranquil waters of the Zahara de la Sierra reservoir. This activity can be combined with raft-making and archery. • Caving and climbing. Speleology in the Susto and Excéntrica caves. A one- or twoday rock-climbing course is also available. • Canyoning. In the Garganta Verde, ‘the Devil’s Sinkhole’ (Sima del Diablo), the Canyon of Las Buitreras.
gestions made at this time was the creation of a mobile recycling point, because the existing facilities were too far away. Following several meetings with local representatives, the project has been given the green light, and installation is imminent. In this way, Al-Qutun is contributing to the environmental education work of this renowned international NGO, in accordance with Greenpeace’s philosophy of conserving the natural world. Apart from the hostel, which was built in 1998 in the traditional architectural style of the region, AlQutun has other accommodation available for rent, both in Algodonales itself and in the surrounding countryside. It also runs a shop, selling all the equipment and material necessary to take part in the range of sports — be they montane, aerial or water — on offer in the mountains of Cádiz. This establishment also provides the visitor with detailed information about the region, as well as hints and suggestions about where to buy local artisan craftwork and farm produce.
• Multi-adventure programmes. The company offers composite activities of games and adventure sports such as abseiling, flying fox and archery. Also, bungee-jumping, from the bridge of La Nava.
Languages English, French and German Open All year round Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point
• 4WD routes. Through the Sierra de Grazalema Natural Park and the Sierra de Líjar, to the south of Algodonales. • Flying centre. Hot-air balloon trips and twin paragliding flights (with a guide) over the picturesque Sierra de Líjar. 100
• Cultural programmes. Visits to the villages in the Grazalema Natural Park, as well as those in the ‘White Villages Route’.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Material/equipment provided • Full equipment for all activities • 4 support vehicles, 4WD and van • Orienteering and multi-adventure circuit • Hostel sleeping 59 (with 2 ha dedicated to organic agriculture) • Rural accommodation complex of La Carrihuela (3 houses, sleeping 12) • Self-catering house Cerrito Blanco (sleeping 5) • Self-catering house Brígida (sleeping 15) • Self-catering house La Cueva Soleá (sleeping 6) • Self-catering house Pitito (sleeping 5)
Contact details C/ Zahara de la Sierra, 13 11680 Algodonales (Cádiz) Tel: 956 13 78 82 info@al-qutun.com www.al-qutun.com
ZAHARA CATUR When it was founded twelve years ago, this company became a pioneer in the development of active, educational and environmental tourism in the mountains of Cádiz. Today Zahara Catur operates from the Arroyomolinos Recreation Area: a 6-ha enclosure in the heart of the Sierra de Grazalema. Amidst vegetable gardens and orchards, a small artificial lake has been created by diverting the course of the river that runs through the enclosure. On-site facilities — swimming and play areas, drinking water and cloakrooms — combined with the broad expanse of countryside provide the perfect setting in which to enjoy the various activities offered by the company all year round. Although Zahara Catur’s courses are designed principally for individual clients and school groups, they also offer an increasingly varied programme of team-building initiatives for businesses. Among their most popular activities are multi-adventure courses, 4WD itineraries, flying fox, archery, orienteering and canoeing, all of which include a picnic prepared from local produce. visitor services and activities • Walking. The principal itineraries on offer are the Spanish Fir forest (pinsapar) and the Garganta Verde, where the ‘Cabildo de las Buitreras’ (with 150 pairs of Griffon Vultures) can be found. Other interesting routes are the Llanos del Rabel, on the north face of the Sierra del Pinar, and the ascent of Torreón, the highest peak in the province of Cádiz. • School-group programmes. Holiday camps, including activities such as archery, environmental workshops, trekking and climbing, among others.
The itineraries devised by Zahara Catur visit some of the most interesting sectors of the park, such as the Garganta Verde and the Spanish Fir for-
est (pinsapar). One of the trademarks of the company is the extremely diverse range of activities it offers, such that it can operate all year round: walking, 4WD routes, horse trekking and — for more intrepid clients — canyoning, caving and canoeing. The medieval settlement of Zahara, which lies to the east of the present-day town, is well worth a visit: in this ancient encampment, Roman constructions designed to store and distribute water are interspersed with defensive structures dating from the Moorish period and notable Christian edifices such as the Mudejar church. The company also manages the Natural Park Visitor Centre in the modern-day village of Zahara. This three-storey building houses an exhibition and an audiovisual projection room, both of which offer a detailed analysis of the flora and fauna of this protected area. There is also a shop, offering artisan merchandise and produce of the region, such as pottery, organic oils, wines, leather goods and natural cosmetics. Material/equipment provided • Canoes (19) • 9-seater vehicle • 4WD vehicles • Specialised technical material
• 4WD itineraries. These routes can be adapted to suit the needs of each and every client and participants can even practise their off-road driving skills.
Languages English, German Open All year round
• Multi-adventure courses. Canoeing on the tranquil Zahara reservoir, canyoning in the Garganta Verde and an introduction to speleology in the Susto cave are just some of the more exciting activities offered by Zahara Catur. • Team-building activities for businesses. Several combinations of activities are possible, of variable duration. 4WD itineraries, flying fox and archery are the most popular. • Other itineraries. Horse-trekking routes of various lengths; sight-seeing tours in a 9-
seater vehicle, with stop-offs at various viewpoints and villages along the way and the option of sampling local produce; archaeological and historical tours, which include a visit to the medieval settlement of Zahara de la Sierra.
Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point Contact details Plaza del Rey, 3 11688 Zahara de la Sierra (Cádiz) Tel.: 956 12 31 14 / 657 92 63 94 / 657 92 63 04 centro@zaharacatur.com www.zaharacatur.com
SIERRA DE GRAZALEMA NATURAL PARK
101
The rocky summits of the Sierra Nevada. In the background, the cliffs of the Veleta.
SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS A visit to a high Mediterranean mountain range The Sierra Nevada is a mountain range of superlatives and records: it is home to the highest peak in the Iberian Peninsula (Mulhacén, 3,482 m), boasts the most exclusive and varied Mediterranean flora in the whole of Europe, and is composed of a series of peaks that were carved out by Europe’s most southerly glaciers. Moreover, hidden away in its midst lies La Alpujarra, one of the most popular Spanish regions for travellers, attracted by its combination of singular architecture and rural and agrarian culture, which to a large extent is a legacy of the Moorish Andalusian culture of the Middle Ages. During the nineteenth and twentieth centuries La Alpujarra and the Sierra Nevada were the source of inspiration for numerous romantic travellers such as Gerald Brennan and, more recently, Chris Stewart, author of the bestselling Driving over Lemons, who have created from their experiences in the region what is possibly the broadest body of travel literature in Spain. Besides its notable plant and insect diversity, the Sierra Nevada — Sulayr or ‘the mountain of the sun’ to the Arabs — is also a magnificent protected area in which visitors can practice a vast array of outdoor activities, from skiing to hiking. The GR-240 long-distance footpath — the longest in Spain and known as the Sulayr — circumnavigates this huge protected area, and to walk this trail is but one of the many ways of getting to know this region and the quintessence of Andalusian rural way of life. Otherwise, visitors may choose to head for the city of Granada, one of the unmissable centres of cultural tourism in Spain. he Sierra Nevada is closely related to the Pyrenees, Atlas Mountains and Himalayas. During the Alpine orogeny of the Tertiary period, the collision between the African and European continents uplifted land and marine sediments alike to produce a mountainous arc extending from Gibraltar to the Balearic Islands with the Sierra Nevada as its highest point. The maritime origin of many of the rocks is made patent by the series of limestone and dolomitic rocks that surround the main spine of this magnificent massif. Thanks to its position, size and, above all, its geological and ecological histories, the Sierra Nevada is an area of great natural contrasts that can be appreciated in the colours and composition of its rocks, the shapes of its peaks, slopes and valleys, the variety and adaptations present in its flora and the distribution of its forests. Aside from the ski station at the head of the river Monachil, its highest mountains are refreshingly free of all human infrastructures, and the alignment of its summits, ridges, gorges, cirques, valleys and glacial platforms have all played an important role in the distribution of its highly varied plant communities. The vast pine forests on the northern face scored by numerous gullies blend in at lower elevations with thick Holm Oak forests that in many areas have been cut to provide space for almond and cereal cultivation. On the southern face, on the other hand, a mosaic of deciduous oak and Holm Oak forests, terracing, gullies and narrow ir-
T
rigation channels define the landscape, much more humid and verdant in the west in Granada province than in the dry arid easterly villages in Almería province. A trip along one of the sinuous roads that contours around the massif at mid-altitude, crossing a myriad of gullies and valleys, is the best way of getting an idea of the sheer size of the Sierra Nevada and the lengths its inhabitants have had to go over the centuries to tame it. But perhaps the most arid of all the landscapes that surround the Sierra Nevada are those of the Hoya de Guadix (Granada) and the valley of the river Nacimiento (Almería). Here, desolate badlands, the product of past and on-going erosion, shape a landscape that would not seem out of place in a far-eastern desert, and traditional architecture has found a magnificent way of overcoming the limitations of this arid land: buildings have been dug out of badland hillsides to create the famous cave-homes, a type of troglodyte dwelling that are models of energetic efficiency. Lastra, launa and calar: three rock formations distributed concentrically around the Sierra Nevada The summits of the Sierra Nevada are formed of metamorphic quartzites and mica schists, over 250 million years old; they are hard, dark-coloured (but at times reddish) and reflective and are locally known as lastra. They are abundant on the north face of the massif SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
103
Panoramic view of the Sierra Nevada from Loma de Papeles.
where the major peaks of Mulhacén, Alcazaba and Veleta stand out, but form rather gentler slopes on the southern side. Bordering on the lastra, is the launa, a mix of clays and slate fragments, coloured bluish or brilliant grey by the micas and quartzes they contain and which, due to their imperviousness, have traditionally been used in houses in La Alpujarra as roofing material. A third rock type — known as calar — forms a ring of dolomitic and limestone rocks around the other two rock types and has been eroded away to create a series of singular landscapes. The multiple fractures in the dolomites have allowed water and ice to penetrate and shatter the rock and generate dry river beds and tongues of gravel resembling sandy beaches. They are especially noticeable in the westernmost part of the massif near Granada, above all on the slopes of Pico Trevenque and in Los Alayos de Dílar. In nearby valleys, narrow gorges such as that of Los Cahorros on the river Monachil have been carved out by the action of water on the dolomites. The most southerly glaciers in Europe The high peaks of the Sierra Nevada are fossil landscapes, moulded during the ice-ages by meteorological conditions that no longer exist. The ice caps extended as far as Andalusia, at the gates of Africa, and excavated deep U-shaped valleys, characterised by their steep sides down which water cascades as the snow melts in spring and summer. The ice-ages left indelible marks on the region in the form of glacial features that today are an intrinsic part of the landscape — cirques, glacial platforms, roche moutonées, moraines and frozen glacial lakes. The presence of numerous scree slopes reflects the implacable force of the ice, which has fragmented slopes and scoured clean 104
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
rocks of extreme hardness, and created a landscape of exceptional abruptness. The ascent of Veleta and El Mulhacén, or the route of the tresmiles (3,000-m peaks) from El Picón de Jerez as far as El Caballo, reveals to the observant visitor the variety of glacial forms and its dynamism. The glacial activity has also originated other interesting habitats such as borreguiles, marshy grasslands that form on the glacial platforms and around glacial lakes: a tour of these landscapes and the observation of the flora that has taken refuge there is like stepping into an Alpine or a Nordic habitat a mere handful of kilometres from the Mediterranean. A mountain of vital importance for the area The huge mass of the Sierra Nevada traps passing humid air masses that almost always give rise to snow above 2,500 m. Snow accumulations affect temperatures in what is otherwise a very dry area and act as reservoirs of water for crops on the sub-tropical coast of Granada and for nearby cities. The melt water feeds an extensive hydrographic network composed of myriads of gullies, streams and rivers that on the north face converge on the river Genil, which in turn flows into the mighty Guadalquivir; on the south face, streams feed the rivers Guadalfeo, Adra and Andarax. Aquifers are numerous and well supplied and some such as those that gush out at the famous spa and bottling plant at Lanjarón are noted for their medicinal properties. As well, the melt water is used to supply an intricate network of acequias or irrigation channels, made impermeable by the launa clays, which water the cultivated terraces of La Alpujarra. A walk along these acequias (for example, the Alta and Baja in Capileira, Al-
bardas and Bacares in Trevélez) in the shade of the splendidly exuberant vegetation that thrives on their banks is a delight in any season, but above all in summer.
Wood in autumn in Vereda de la Estrella, at the headwaters of the river Genil.
A mountain range with all Mediterranean bioclimatic vegetation zones The great altitude of the Sierra Nevada permits five different vegetation zones to thrive, thereby converting it into the most plant-rich mountainous area in the whole of the Mediterranean Basin. At the base of the massif the ramblas or dry river beds of La Alpujarra are decorated by Oleanders and other thermophile shrubs. At mid-altitudes Holm Oak forests cover mountainsides and are at their best in places such as Bayárcal, Beires and Pitres. Deciduous oak forests appear above the Holm Oaks, but have been much transformed by grazing and centuries of firewood gathering. They alternate with stands of Sweet Chestnut, Fig, Cherry, Walnut and even Mulberry trees that were cultivated originally by the moriscos (Muslims converted to Christianity during the Reconquest) and are best appreciated on the Alpujarran slopes around Puente Palo, Cáñar, Pitres and Trevélez. Aleppo, Maritime and Black pines today cover northern slopes, in part in plantations; some of the best preserved forests in the area, though, can be seen in the Dehesa del Camarate (Lugros), where a smattering of the original vegetation can be admired (Holm and deciduous oaks, maples) along with a number of more Atlantic species such as Whitebeam, Wild Cherry and Yew. Between 1,900 and 2,800 m in the oromediterranean zone on the limestone-dolomitic rocks a few relict Scots Pine (subsp. nevadensis) forests cling on accompanied by junipers, for example in the Cortijuela forest in the mountains around Alayos and Trevenque. The vegetation here is composed of trees and shrubs such as Scots Pine, Savin and Common Juniper, as well as spiny shrubs growing in cushions as an adaptation to the weight of the snow, the wind and grazing by herbivores. The main such species are Vella spinosa and Hedgehog Broom (Erinacea anthyllis) and this specialised spiny shrub community is present all around the massif just above the tree line. A series of species with singular adaptations to extreme climates, obliged to complete their vegetative cycles in the three summer months, have taken refuge on the summits above 2,800 m in the socalled crioro-mediterranean zone. This high-mountain flora that brings to life the otherwise bleak summits is composed of houseleeks, foxgloves, butterworts, and endemic artemisias, violets, plantains, poppies and monkshood. Few plant communities thrive here in the thin soils and adverse climatic conditions, and grasslands are necessarily short and scant, although they are home to many fascinating local endemic plants. The scree slopes are widespread at high altitudes and harbour a large number of plants such as the Sierra Nevada Violet (Viola crassiuscula) and a toadflax Linaria glacialis that have adapted to life in SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
105
Three rare endemic plants found at high altitude in the Sierra Nevada: Erigeron frigidus, Sierra Nevada Violet (Viola crassiuscula) and Sierra Nevada Poppy (Papaver lapeyrousianum).
this hostile environment, while the cracks in sheer rock faces are home to Saxifraga nevadensis and Arabis alpina. The borreguiles, the marshy meadows bordering the lakes and streams in the bottom of the glacial cirques that are grazed by local cattle, also hold a number of endemic species of flowers, as well as others that are typical of peat bogs. In all, the Sierra Nevada is home to 2,100 of the 8,000 species of vascular plants known from the Iberian Peninsula, of which the most relevant are the endemic species: 175 are Iberian endemics, and a further 80 are endemic to the Sierra Nevada. Of the latter, a number are in danger of extinction, including the famous Sierra Nevada Rock Tea (Artemisia granatensis), Arenaria nevadensis, Erodium rupicola, Laserpitium longiradium, Narcissus nevadensis and Senecio elodes, to name just a few of the most threatened species that make the Sierra Nevada such a hotspot of Mediterranean floral diversity. From the singular endemic invertebrates to the world’s largest population of Iberian Ibex Such varied vegetation and environmental conditions inevitably translate into an equally diverse and original invertebrate fauna boasting over 300 endemic species. The most characteristic animal of the Sierra Nevada is the Iberian Ibex, endemic to Spain and found nowhere else in such large numbers as in these parks. It has expanded into neighbouring upland areas and has even colonised coastal cliffs; it is easy to see in summer on the highest peaks, but in winter descends to feed on mid-altitude mountain slopes. The most visible group of animals are probably the birds, and there are a number of species, including Alpine Accentor, Northern Wheatear, Skylark and Black Redstart, that are inextricably linked to the high mountains in the Sierra Nevada; elsewhere, rocky outcrops 106
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
are the places to search for Rufous-tailed Rock Thrush, Red-billed Chough and Golden Eagle. Mons Solarius, Sulayr, the Sierra Nevada The Romans called the Sierra Nevada ‘Mons Solarius’, whilst the Moors named it ‘Sulayr’, the ‘Mountain of the sun’, since the sun caresses its heights until dusk has almost completely fallen: a sunset seen from the Albaicín quarter of the city of Granada is one of the most charming of all sights for visitors to see. The Moorish occupation of the Iberian Peninsula left its mark on many of the landscapes that we are able to contemplate today — this is the case of shady woods that have sprung up on some slopes along the acequias built by the moriscos to conduct the melt water down towards the valleys. Likewise, the Moorish influence is still recognisable in place names such as Mulhacén or the village of Tahá de Pitres. Nevertheless, perhaps the most singular legacy of the period of Moorish domination is the irrigation network, based on an intricate network of channels that criss-cross the hillsides and transport the abundant waters to the gardens and fields of La Alpujarra. One of the best examples of traditional local architecture in Andalusia is to be found in La Alpujarra. Dwellings are cubic in shape, with a flat roof — the terrao — made out of the impermeable launa rocks, out of which point skywards cylindrical (but slightly conical) chimneys topped off with flat stones giving an appearance of a hat. Walls are made out of stone (quartzites and schists), consolidated with adobe and whitewashed in most villages, but with the stone left bare in most country farms. Roofs are covered with slate slabs laid on beams of sweet chestnut wood. The lines of houses follow the curves of the terraced hillsides and normally have a small vegetable garden attached. Many houses also have a tinao, exterior porch-like struc-
View of the north face of El Mulhac茅n and La Alcazaba at dawn at the beginning of October; at their feet, the Genil valley.
ture that connects one line of houses with it neighbour and which are used as terraces, store-rooms or places to dry fruit and seeds. This style of domestic architecture houses predates the arrival of the Moors into Andalusia and is reminiscent of Berber dwellings in North Africa. All in all, these villages, situated on the very hillsides that are the source of the building materials and the water that run through their narrow streets, exude a harmony of style and a rural atmosphere that is hard find anywhere else in the world. Outside the villages, many other examples of rural architecture associated with agriculture and livestock farming survive. On the paths linking the villages, walkers will come across springs, washing places, stables, mills, bridges, corrals, cultivated terraces and plantations.
Three representative species of animal from the Sierra Nevada: Alpine Accentor, the endemic orthopter Pycnogaster inermis and Iberian Ibex. Views of the villages of Bubi贸n and Capileira in the valley of Poqueira.
Managing to conserve the biodiversity The Sierra Nevada was declared a Biosphere reserve in 1986 and a natural park in 1989; subsequently, the highest part of the massif was declared a national park in 1999. The management of the protected area is complex, above all because of the many different human activities that take place within these mountains. In recent years a number of outstanding conservation projects have been carried out, including the closure and the landscaping of SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
107
PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND PUBLIC FACILITIES Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks • Date declared. Natural Park: 18 July 1989; National Park: 11 January 1999. • Surface area. National Park: 86,208 ha; Natural Park: 85,750 ha. • Provinces. Almería and Granada. • Municipalities. ALMERÍA: Abla, Abrucena, Alboloduy, Alhabia, Almócita, Alsodux, Bayárcal, Beires, Bentarique, Canjáyar, Fiñana, Fondón, Íllar, Instinción, Laujar de Andarax, Nacimiento, Ohanes, Padules, Paterna del Río, Rágol, Santa Cruz, Terque, Las Tres Villas; GRANADA: Aldeire, Alpujarra de La Sierra, Alquife, Bérchules, Bubión, Busquístar, Cádiar, Cáñar, Capileira, Carataunas, Cogollos de Guadix, Dílar, Dólar, Dúrcal, Ferreira, Gójar, Güéjar-Sierra, Huéneja, Jérez del Marquesado, Juviles, La Calahorra, Lanjarón, Lanteira, Lecrín, Lugros, Monachil, Nevada, Nigüelas, Padul, Pampaneira, Pórtugos, Soportújar, La Tahá, Trevélez, Válor, La Zubia. • ECST accreditation. 2004 • Other types of protection. Biosphere Reserve, Special Protection Area for Birds, Ramsar Site (Lagunas de Padul), Site of Community Importance. • Contact Carretera antigua de Sierra Nevada, km 7 18191 Pinos Genil (Granada) Tel.: 958 02 63 00 pn.snevada.cma@juntadeandalucia.es Go to Ventana del Visitante at: www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente www.reddeparquesnacionales.mma.es/ parques/sierra/index.htm vISITOR FACILITIES EL DORNAJO VISITOR CENTRE Located in the north of the protected area, this centre brings the area to life through a description of the history of mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada and of the illustrious scientists and romantic travellers who have visited the area. It also provides an overview of the protected areas’ biodiversity and local ethnographical heritage. From the centre there is access to a viewpoint and La Cortijuela Botanical Garden, and to the Sulayr Trail. • Location and contact details. Granada to Sierra Nevada road (A-395), km 23, GüéjarSierra (Granada). Tel.: 958 34 06 25 • Facilities and services. Library, sale of books and maps, cafe, eco-shop. Also offers environmental education, outdoor activities and guided excursions. 108
• Opening times. All year round. Monday-Sunday: 09.30-14.30 and 16.30-19.30 • Access for people with reduced mobility LAUJAR DE ANDARAX VISITOR CENTRE Located in the south of the protected area in the Almerian Alpujarras, this centre provides visitors with information on the parks’ hydrographical resources and how historically local people have exploited water using Moorish traditions. As well, there is an exhibition on the geology of the Sierra Nevada, the history of mining in the area and a display of different minerals. • Location and contact details. Laujar de Andarax to Berja road, km 1 (Almería). Tel.: 950 51 35 48 • Facilities and services. Information and recommendations for visitors, sale of books and maps. • Opening times. All year round. Thursday-Sunday: 10.30-14.30. Saturdays, Sundays, public holidays, and eve of public holidays in summer: 16-18. • Access for people with reduced mobility
jara. In all, 400 different plant species grow here. • Location and contact details. Access: from the village of La Zubia take the track towards Cumbres Verdes and La Cortijuela casa forestal. Tel.: 958 02 60 00 / 697 95 89 39 • Opening times. March-October (inclusive). Monday-Friday: 09-14; Saturdays, Sundays and public holidays: 12-18.
• Río Dílar, in Dílar (Granada). Located next to the Ermita Vieja Field Study Centre. • Puerto de La Ragua, in Bayárcal (Almería). Situated next to the information point and a hostel; start of three paths designed for people with reduced mobility. • La Roza, in Abrucena (Almería). Near the only place in the two parks that free camping is permitted, and a restaurant.
ERMITA VIEJA FIELD STUDY CENTRE Situated near the village of Dílar, in a leafy valley of pines, walnuts and market gardens, this centre can cater for 50 people. It is run by the Huerto Alegre Centre for Educational Innovation and is used for developing environmental education programmes for children, teenagers and adults. • Location and contact details. Camino de la central hidroeléctrica, km 4, Dílar (Granada). Tel.: 958 22 84 96. www.huertoalegre.com • Opening times. All year round, but prior reservation needed for group activities. • Access for people with reduced mobility
LA CORTIJUELA BOTANICAL GARDEN A visit to this botanical garden is highly recommendable for those wanting to get to know some of the most representative plants of the Sierrra Nevada and nearby mountains such as the sierras of Huétor, Tejeda and Almi-
RECREATIONAL FACILITIES PICNIC SITES In all, there are 18 such sites, of which the following are of most interest: • Hoya del Portillo, in Capileira (Granada). Access to the Altas Cumbres Interpretation Services.
PAThS AND TRAILS A network of 26 waymarked paths totalling 250 km exists in the parks, along with five bivouac huts and two guarded mountain huts (Poqueira in Capileira and Postero Alto in Jérez del Marquesado). The following are some of the best paths for those wishing to explore the protected area: • Pueblos del Poqueira. Circuit starting and ending in Pampaneira that passes through three villages (Pampaneira, Bubión and Capileira) and gives walkers a chance to admire the typical local architecture and terraced cultivation of Las Alpujarras. Length: 9.5 km. Time: 4-5 h. • Hoya del Portillo-Poqueira mountain hut. This magnificent route — an excellent way of getting to know the summits of the area — and many others start from the Poquiera guarded mountain hut and are the best options for tackling the highest peaks in the Sierra Nevada. Length: 9 km. Time: 3 h. • Trevélez-Siete Lagunas. A very varied route linking the humanised forests of Las Alpujarras with the glacial lakes, damp pastures (borreguiles), endemic flora and specialised fauna of the highest peaks. Length: 12 km (with a climb of 1,420 m). Time: 6-7 h. • El Aguadero. This route through the municipality of Laujar de Andarax traverses the forests of the Almerian Alpujarras, visiting the Alder and ash riparian woodland, as well as groves of Sweet Chestnut where ancient trees such as‘La Rosa’ have survived the tests of time. Length: 14 km. Time: 5-6 h. • Río Alhama. This route starts in Lugros and heads for one of the most mature and best preserved forests in the Sierra Nevada, with a mix of deciduous oaks, maples and Yew. Length: 6.7 km. Time: 3 h. • Sulayr Trail. The longest circular trail in Spain, made up of 19 stages covering a total of 300 km. The paths, trails and drovers’-roads are linked to public facilities such as El Dornajo Visitor Centre and La Cortijuela Botanical Garden.
OThER INFORMATION POINTS Name
Location
Pampaneira Pampaneira Information Point (Granada)
Address
Puerto Bayárcal (Almería) La Calahorra to de La Ragua Cherín road, Information Point km 11.6
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Open
Pza. de la Libertad, All year round s/n. All year round (currently under restoration)
Telephone
Access
958 76 31 27
Yes
950 52 40 20
Yes
MUSEO ALMAZARA LAS LAERILLAS This museum contains an almazara, a waterpowered olive-oil mill, and is situated in a building dating from the Nashrid dynasty (12th14th centuries) that also houses the Museum of Traditional Agriculture. Nigüelas (Granada). Tel.: 958 77 76 36 www.niguelas.org / www.turgranada.es MUNICIPAL MUSEUM OF ALPUJARRAN HOUSES (Museo La Moralea) A good example of typical Alpujarran architecture, where the different construction techniques and building materials used can be admired. Bubión (Granada). Tel.: 958 76 32 25 / 958 76 30 32 www.bubion.es / www.turgranada.es
• For people with reduced mobility there are three routes starting at the pass at La Ragua, and a bird observatory at the Laguna de Padul.
Ferreira (Granada). Tel.: 958 67 73 01 / 616 08 31 89 www.turgranada.es
OThER FACILITIES CENTRE FOR THE INTERPRETATION OF ARABIAN ARCHITECTURE This museum occupies an old Moorish fortress and some of the rooms of a restored Moorish house (La Casa Grande), and describes the Moorish cultural legacy present in the area known as the Marquesado del Zenete.
MOLINO BAJO CENTRE FOR THE INTERPRETATION OF THE wATER At the Molino Bajo interpretation centre visitors can discover for themselves the history and workings of the local water mills. Huéneja (Granada). Tel.: 958 683 001 www.hueneja.es
A-92
Alcudia de Guadix Lugros
1
El Dornajo Visitor Centre
2
Laujar de Andarax Visitor Centre
JB
Albuñán
A-92 Jérez del Marquesado Lanteira
Dólar Ferreira
Huéneja
Pampaneira Information Point
4
Puerto de la Ragua Information Point
Abrucena
JB
La Cortijuela Botanical Garden
3
Fiñana
1
Dílar
Location and contact details • North face. Albergue Universitario de la Hoya de la Mora, road A-395, km 32. Tel.: 671 564 407 Opening times. Monday to Sunday, 08-20 (summer only; telephone for full details). • South face. Casa de la Cultura, Capileira (Granada). Tel.: 958 76 34 86 / 671 56 44 06 Opening times. Monday to Sunday: 09-14. From Tuesday to Sunday, also: 16-20 (only spring to summer; telephone for full details of opening times).
GUIDED vISIT SERvICES ALTAS CUMBRES INTERPRETATION SERVICES This service consists of a guided visit by minibus that follows the old road across the Sierra Nevada — now closed to traffic — and provides visitors with a close-up view of the highest peaks from both north and south. From La
Guadix
GRANADA Pinos Genil Güejar-Sierra
Hoya de la Mora on the north face the minibus approaches the base of the peak of Veleta, from where in an hour visitors can reach the peak and discover the joys of the high-level flora of the area and the remains of the Veleta glacier. On the south face, the route starts in the village of Capileira and climbs to Puerto Molina, where there is an interpretation service for the glacial valleys of the south face of the range, the main peaks and the high-level flora and fauna. From here, visitors can continue on foot to the summit of Mulhacén in 2-3 hours.
Abla Nacimiento
4 Ohanes
Bayárcal Padul Laroles 2
Dúrcal Bérchules Nigüelas Lecrín Lanjarón
Padules Alcolea
Juviles
Cádiar A-348
Órgiva
Fondón
Ugijar
Pitres
Cáñar
Láujar de Andarax
Válor
Capileira 3
Alboloduy
Canjáyar A-348
Paterna del Río
A-347 Murtas
0
10
20
30
km
A-348 SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
109
Winter on La Alcazaba and El Mulhacén.
the highest road in Europe: cars are no longer allowed on this road and it is now used as a walking trail for visitors wishing to enjoy the solitude of the highest mountains in the Sierra Nevada. Reforestations with native species of tree have been conducted as a means of restoring the original forests that were cut down and replaced by pine plantations. It is hoped that in this way the pine forests of La Alpujarra and El Marquesado will one day become much more varied in composition and thus resemble far more the original forest of the Sierra Nevada. Other projects include the restoration of the acequias, which will help preserve the Sweet Chestnut and other deciduous forests that thrive along these irrigation channels, as well as the singular agrarian landscape inherited from the morisco culture. Recreational and sporting activities must be compatible with the conservation of the region’s natural heritage and traditional rural ways of life. For this reason, the Sierra Nevada Natural and National Parks have been granted the European Charter of Sustainable Tourism, an award that ensures the application of an action plan aimed at promoting tourism that respects both local cultural and natural heritage and the very people who live within these parks. 110
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Pico del Trevenque from the viewpoint at Espartera in the Dílar valley.
CUEVAS DEL TÍO TOBAS The Cuevas del Tío Tobas are situated on a hillside in the Zalabí valley, close to three protected areas (Sierra de Baza, Sierra de Castril and Sierra Nevada) and the important mountain pass of La Ragua. With their sinuous lines, arched roofs and white chimneys, these cave dwellings are singular to say the least. Over 100 years ago, ‘Tío’ Tobas began to build these cave dwellings for his family (including 10 children), working in the winter when the rain and bad weather made it impossible to work in the fields. The result is an interconnecting series of caves that, thanks to their underground situation, have an almost perfect stable natural climate — 21º C all year around (which means that, surprisingly, blankets are needed in summer).These troglodyte dwellings, known as Las Cuevas del Tío Tobas, are thus both intimate and welcoming. The vast cultural legacy of peoples as disparate as the Jews, Arabs and Christians characterises the cookery of the accommodation’s restaurant, which is Accommodation type Rural self-catering house (three keys) visitor services and activities • Horse riding with guide supplied by the house. Routes can last from a day to a week, using Las Cuevas as a base from which to explore the local area. • Activities for companies. Via an active tourism company, multi-adventure group activities can be organised: archery, canyoning and trips in light aircraft or hot-air balloon are the most popular.
local organic wine. This accommodation also offers clients the chance to go for short walks in the area, trek in the higher reaches of the Sierra Nevada, go horse riding, fly in a light aircraft or a hot-air balloon or just relax and enjoy the local spas. Cultural possibilities in the areas include a visit to the town of Guadix with its numerous monuments or to the badland landscape with its caves and dolmens.
essentially simple but tasty. Local products are knowingly combined in recipes handed down from generation to generation, in which tradition blends in perfectly with the magic of Mediterranean cuisine. The rin ran (salt-cod and tomato), the tajás (bread and pork based mix) with fried eggs, the partridge in spicy sauce and kid in garlic are all made from exquisite local products, that can be washed down with a fine
• Guided tour in 4WD. From Las Cuevas a 4WD route takes visitors to the Gorafe Megalithic Park, one of the greatest concentrations of dolmens anywhere in Europe. Once at this park, there are a number of waymarked paths with information boards.
Location Alcudia de Guadix (Granada) Almería road, km 1 Coordinates: 34º 14’ 45.60’’ N, 3º 5’ 31.20’’W
Open All year round Prices Cave dwelling for two: 78 €/day518 €/week Official endorsements Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 958 69 83 50 / 607 62 22 26 aranda@tiotobas.com www.tiotobas.com
Capacity • 19 houses (caves), sleeping 60 • 100-cover rural restaurant
• Las Cuevas del Tío Tobas regularly offers clients special packs, for example, an excursion on horseback combined with a tour of the Moorish heritage of the spa of Graena. • Pets welcome. Languages English, French and German
Facilities • Reception • Free parking • Swimming pool • Mountain-bike hire • Small shop selling typical local products (pottery, products made out of esparto, oil, etc.) • Open fire • TV • Equipped kitchen SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
111
COMPLEJO RURAL EL CERCADO A family enterprise, set up in 2006, this complex of rural self-catering accommodation is located in the middle of the countryside about half a kilometre from Bérchules, one the highest villages in Spain. It comprises 14 small houses, each in the characteristic architectural style of the Alpujarras, a restaurant and a swimming pool. The houses, which have been built using local materials, boast the typical structure of dwellings in these foothills of the Sierra Nevada: stone walls, flat roofs topped with launa (as the impermeable clay of the region is called) and chimneys faced with slabs of slate. These traditional architectural components have been combined with modern-day elements in order to improve the environmental performance of the complex: a boiler run on biomass bricks, independent heating and individual thermostats in each of the houses.
In the restaurant, one of the most popular dishes is the puchero de hinojos, a fennel-flavoured stew, closely followed by barbequed meats and pork products from the proprietors’ own herd of Iberian Black Pigs. El Cercado collaborates with other companies in the area in the supply of active tourism packages that include walking, horse-trekking routes of various days’ length (for which the complex has fully equipped stables) and cycling itineraries. For guests who prefer to spend their time here in a more relaxed manner, the surrounding countryside is riddled with ancient trails, threshing floors, natural caves and other attractions. Another example of how El Cercado combines innovation with tradition is the recently introduced client-loyalty discount scheme for returning guests.
Accommodation type Self-catering apartment (three keys)
Languages English
visitor services and activities • Three-fork restaurant offering typical Alpujarran cuisine. • Walking: stroll through chestnut forests and along irrigation channels around Bérchules. • Horse trekking. • Activity tourism: rock-climbing, canyoning, 4WD routes, etc. • Sale of locally produced foodstuffs. • Dogs are welcome (except in the suite), on the deposit of 100 €.
Location Bérchules (Granada) Paraje El Cercado, Alcútar (municipality of Bérchules) Coordinates: 36º 58’ 17” N, 3º 11’ 20”W
Open All year round
Capacity • 14 country houses for 2 (one of which is a suite) and 4 people; sleeping 54 in total • All the houses are suitable for people with limited mobility • 135-cover restaurant 112
Facilities • Restaurant with terrace • Cafeteria-bar • Swimming pools (for adults and small children) • Conference/meeting room • Car park • Open fire • Full equipped kitchen • Jacuzzi in the suite • Wi-Fi in the restaurant and the cafeteria
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • Park Information Point Prices House for 2 people: 85 €/day, 510 €/week House for 4 people: 100 €/day, 600 €/week Suite for 2 people (breakfast included): 135 €/day, 840 €/week
Contact details Tel.: 958 06 40 23 reservas@elcercadoalpujarra.com www.elcercadoalpujarra.com
LA ALQUERÍA DE MORAYMA One of the most evident legacies of the Al-Andalus culture is observable in the traditional architecture of the villages of La Alpujarra. Among the most typical constructions that still survive are the farmsteads, formed of clusters of agricultural buildings, of which the Alquería de Morayma is a magnificent example. Located in the heart of La Alpujarra in Granada Province and on the banks of the river Guadalfeo, this agrotourism centre lies within a 50-ha estate devoted to agroforestry, with organic production of almonds, figs, quinces, wine, olive oil and Sant John’s wort oil for therapeutic use. This small oasis, just 30 km from Mediterranean beaches, also has superb views over the southern flanks of the Sierra Nevada and the villages of Lobras, Tímar, Bérchules and Cádiar. Since 1992 and as needs have become apparent, its buildings have been gradually reconstructed and crops expanded. In addition to the principal building Accommodation type Two-star rural hotel
visitor services and activities • Accommodation and restaurant with traditional local cuisine. • Participation in the agricultural activities (grape harvest, wine and oil production, fruit collecting, farm work, etc.). • La Alquería Irrigation Channel Trail: a shady 2 -km trail running down a gully cloaked in Mediterranean woodland fed by water from the ancient irrigation channels. Signposted and recognised as route SL-49, this is a self-guided trail with information leaflet available. • Other officially recognised routes passing through the estate are PR-25, PR-32, GR-7 (E-4) and GR-142.
which houses the reception, restaurant and two apartments, the complex also includes seven groups of two or three small buildings built into the slopes and interconnected by tinaos (covered passageways typical of the area), as well as a chapel, stables, farm and vegetable gardens.
• Vehicle and bicycle routes through different parts of the area. • Ski ascents to two of the Sierra Nevada peaks. These routes are undertaken in February and March. • Birdwatching. Visitors may take part in the birds censuses carried out in La Alpujarra in the surroundings of La Alquería. • Personal development courses (natural bio-dance, yoga, Tai Chi). • Dogs and other pets are allowed.
The restaurant serves traditional dishes typical of Las Alpujarras using recipes inherited from the Moors, and made using fresh local produce. The day starts with toast drizzled with olive oil, plus tomato, a little salt and, of course, a little of the area’s cured hams. Lunch or dinner might be an olla gitana (literally gypsy’s pot), with a base of various beans, local bacon, chicken and spicy pork sausage. To make best use of the surroundings, La Alquería also organises various routes through the estate, as well as visits to the wine cellar, olive oil mill, and also offers the chance to participate in the agricultural activities. As a result of the great care with which the complex has been reconstructed, the Alquería now acts as a model for the region, and one of its specific commitments to sustainability is the restoration of the courses of the ancient irrigation channels running through the estate that were devised and developed by the former inhabitants in days of the Moorish domination of Andalusia.
Capacity • 22 rooms, sleeping 48 • 55-cover restaurant
• Olive oil mill producing ecological olive oil, and including a thematic museum • Farm with chickens, ducks and doves • Stables for horses of riding groups Open All year round Prices Houses: for two people, 70 €/day; for four people, 102 €/day
Languages English Location Cádiar (Granada) A-348 road, km 50. The turn-off to the access track is signposted Coordinates: 36º 55’ 27” N, 3º 10’ 57”W
Facilities • Two-room restaurant • Bar with Wi-Fi internet connection • 80 m2 multi-use room • Library specialised in Sierra Nevada and La Alpujarra • TV, DVD, international channels • Swimming pool • Winery producing ecological wines
Official endorsements • ‘Q’ quality tourism label • Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 958 34 33 03 / 958 34 32 21 alqueria@alqueriamorayma.com www.alqueriamorayma.com
SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
113
HOTEL FINCA LOS LLANOS The balconies of the Finca Los Llanos hotel offer splendid views over the Sierra Nevada and the picturesque village of Capileira which, together with Pampaneira and Bubión, is located in the Barranco de Poqueira. This valley, which runs northwards from Las Alpujarras towards the high peaks of the range, is endowed with fabulous scenery, traditional vernacular architecture and a long cultural history. The hotel lies close to one of the departure points for guided tours of the Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks offered by the Altas Cumbres Interpretation Service. These minibus routes are designed to help visitors learn about the history, physical geography, landscape and wildlife of the highest parts of these mountains. Many of the footpaths that traverse the area also start nearby; for example, the descent to the Poqueira river, the trail to La Cebadilla, or a stretch of the Sulayr route. Finca Los Llanos is happy to inform guests about the range of activities availAccommodation type Three-star rural hotel visitor services and activities • Walking. Nearby footpaths include the descent to the river Poqueira, a circular trail through the settlement of La Cebadilla, or a section of the Sulayr route. • Beginners’ horse-riding lessons, and the organisation of horse-trekking routes. • Restaurant with traditional home cooking.
able in the region, such as horsetrekking routes of several days’ duration that can be organised by the hotel itself, in collaboration with a local company. Taking advantage of its privileged location in the upper part of the Barranco del Poqueira, the hotel is designing an interpretative route within its grounds, in order that guests might learn a little more about the history of the region, local stories and legends, the traditional way of life and native plants, but above all, as a way of enjoying the fabulous panoramas of the Sierra Nevada available from a series of viewpoints. In the kitchens of Finca Los Llanos, honey is one of the basic ingredients, along with fruit and vegetables, fish and cheeses, which are combined to pro-
Location Capileira (Granada) Sierra Nevada road, s/n Coordinates: 36º 57’ 43” N, 3º 21’ 27”W
Capacity • 45 rooms, sleeping 87 • 150-cover restaurant
Languages English 114
duce a great range of dishes reflecting the cultural variety of the region. Among the specialities on offer are aubergines with Lanjarón honey, salads incorporating goats’-milk cheeses from the farms of Busquístar and the cured pork sausages of Pampaneira.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Facilities • Swimming pool • Social room • Terrace • Restaurant • Picnic lunches (for hotel guests) • Library • Free internet and Wi-Fi in the communal areas • Laundry • Television • Refrigerator • Towels for the swimming pool
Open All year round (the restaurant is closed from 1 November to 1 March, but breakfast is still available between these dates) Prices Double room: 75 €/night Official endorsements Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 958 76 30 71 reservas@hotelfincalosllanos.com www.hotelfincalosllanos.com
MAMUT SIERRA NEVADA Mamut Sierra Nevada is a services company specialised in active tourism, training courses and sports training. It also organises sports events and incentive courses for companies. The nature reserves in Granada (and other provinces in Andalusia) are used for this range of services, while other activities are occasionally undertaken in more distant destinations, such as trekking in the Moroccan Atlas mountains. However, the company principally focuses on the Sierra Nevada area, an ideal location for certain activities that are impossible elsewhere in eastern Andalusia. These include rock climbing, cross-country skiing, snowshoe walking, mountain biking and canyoning. However, in addition to the fun involved, the Mamut Sierra Nevada team also aims to educate and raise awareness and knowledge of the environment while undertaking these activities. Steeped in this philosophy of combining active tourism and environmental education, the Mamut visitor services and activities • Climbs. Alcazaba, Mulhacén, Arista del Cartujo and the Veleta peaks are some of those climbed. Winter climbs are also undertaken.
Sierra Nevada guides are not only technically excellent teachers, but also have a profound knowledge of the local geography, flora, fauna and traditions. They also act as excellent ambassadors for introducing the visitor to the natural environment and human culture
• Interpretive skiing. This activity complements the teaching and improvement of skiing techniques with the interpretation of the surroundings. In the same spirit, walking using snowshoes brings the visitor closer into contact with their surroundings. • Mountain biking. Various routes, differing in length and difficulty are present in the park and its surroundings. These include longer mixed (road-track) routes from the Sierra Nevada to various points on the Mediterranean coast.
of the Sierra Nevada. In addition, the principles of conservation and the value of the natural environment are emphasised during all of their activities, as corresponds to the strict protection status given to the Sierra Nevada. Among the sustainability measures incorporated into the company’s activities are water saving and reduction in the number of bottles used, made possible by the installation of a system of water storage tanks and multiple taps. Mamut Sierra Nevada collaborates with the park managers by notifying problems with equipment/installations and passing on interesting observations of wildlife, as well as through the organisation of activities associated with other park events and in the promotion of safety measures amongst those undertaking highrisk activities. They also work closely with local associations working in the conservation of the area’s cultural resources.
Material/equipment provided Optional services, such as ski-lifts, photography, support vehicles, food, medical services and rental equipment for each activity.
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • Park Information Point • Interpretive hiking. The principal components on these routes are the flora, lakes, man in the landscape and the mountain. A 3,000 m peak is also included to teach about Mediterranean high mountain areas. • Mountain sports courses. For those wanting to begin skiing, rock-climbing, mountaineering or learn outdoor survival techniques, the company offers personalised training.
Contact details Avda. Sierra Nevada, 126 18190 Cenes de la Vega (Granada) Tel.: 958 48 64 16 info@mamutsierranevada.com www.mamutsierranevada.com Languages English, French and Italian Open All year round SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
115
AULA DE NATURALEZA ERMITA VIEJA The Sierra Nevada Natural Park is a broad belt of land entirely surrounding the National Park of the same name that protects the highest peaks of this imposing range. The Ermita Vieja Nature Study Centre is situated about 15 km from the provincial capital of Granada, in a verdant valley of pinewoods, vegetable gardens and walnut trees, encircled by the summits of Los Alayos. Children, young people and adults come here to learn about and enjoy the natural environment. Ermita Vieja is the logical extension of a project initiated in 1982. At that time, eight students — concerned about the environment and hoping to create their own employment opportunities — purchased an abandoned farmhouse in the vicinity of Albuñuelas on the western flanks of the Sierra Nevada. There they set up an educational farming project with the intention of helping local schools to teach children about wildlife conservation. visitor services and activities • School programmes. The Ermita Vieja Nature Study Centre designs activities for school groups at all levels and of variable duration (1, 3 or 5 days). In addition to the wildlife resources of the surrounding countryside, they also make use of the Centre’s tree nursery, threshing floor and apparatus used to distil aromatic plants. • Ecological itineraries. Guided walks along the river Dílar, focussing on its flora and fauna, aimed at school groups, families or groups of individuals.
Following the success of this venture, in 1994 they founded the Ermita Vieja Nature Study Centre in Dílar, on the northern edge of the range. Since this time, they have diversified the range of activities on offer, with recent projects including workshops dedicated to the biodiversity of the Sierra Nevada and the
• Ecological workshops. After learning about the distillation of plants for their aromatic oils, participants can make their own natural soaps and toothpastes. Other workshops teach participants about renewable energy sources and how to use resources (water, energy, etc.) responsibly.
appreciation of the natural and cultural heritage of the region. Although most all these activities take place in the Centre, school and private groups can also choose from a number of itineraries offered by Ermita Vieja: for example, the trail along the river Dílar or to the col at Silleta de Padul for spectacular views of the Sierra Nevada as far as Granada. The endeavours and social and environmental commitment of the Ermita Vieja team has been acknowledged by regional authorities on numerous occasions. Among the honours bestowed on the Centre are the Andalusian Environmental Award, the Andalusian Medal for Educational Innovation and the Rainbow Award for Cooperativity (‘Premio Arco Iris del Cooperativismo’). Perhaps their most significant honour to date, however, was to receive the Andanatura Award for Collaborating in the Sustainable Development of the Sierra Nevada, granted for the role the Centre has played in the conservation of this national park.
• Summer camps. Aimed at children between six and 13 years. Among the activities on offer are excursions in the Natural Park and workshops dealing with expression, communication and research in ecological issues and the utilisation and transformation of natural resources.
Languages English
• Training courses. Aimed at teachers, students, organisations or, indeed, anyone who is interested in the environment. • Practical fieldwork in environmental education. Designed for both teachers and students, these sessions are offered in collaboration with the Huerta Alegre Centre for Educational Innovation and Granada University. 116
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
• Centre hire. The whole installation can be hired by groups or organisations who wish to carry out their own activities, providing that these are either educational or cultural. Material/equipment provides • Educational and research workshops • Dining rooms • Multi-purpose rooms (for games or conferences) • Library • Educational materials for school children
Open All year round Official endorsements • ISO 9001 and 14001 (applied for) • Park Information Point Contact details Carretera de la central hidroeléctrica, km 2.5 Dílar (Granada) Tel.: 958 22 84 96 / 958 34 04 72 informa@huertoalegre.com www.huertoalegre.com
ALOJAMIENTO RURAL EL VALLE During their explorations south of Granada in the seventh century, the Moors discovered a broad and fertile valley on a plain ringed by mountains that combined all the features they considered to be most important: good soil, freely running rivers and natural shelter from the sierras. And not surprisingly, they stayed. Captivated by its beauty they named it the Valle de Lecrín, or ‘the valley of happiness’. Today, it is home to the El Valle Rural Guesthouse. Evoking former times, this reformed traditional country house, more than 200 years old, is located just 15 minutes from the city of Granada, 25 minutes from the coast and 35 minutes from the Sierra Nevada ski station. El Valle is ideal for visitors seeking peace and tranquility, and directly from the front door it is possible to wander through the vegetable gardens and extensive orange and olive groves, to visit Arab castles or simply sit on the banks of the river. Alternatively, guests can Accommodation type Simple rural guesthouse
visit the local crafts shops or tapas routes to sample the local migas de harina (flour-based mixture of different local products), choto al ajillo (veal with garlic), habas con bacalao (white beans with salt cod) or the roscos de canela (cinnamon doughnuts). After nightfall, clients can also enjoy views of the night sky thanks to the astronomical observatory lo-
• Astronomic equipment sales point. • Wines and oils sales point. The latter comes from the lechín variety of olive, which is typically associated with the cultivation of oranges. Languages English and French
visitor services and activities • Information about walking, horse-riding and cycling routes. One option is to visit Laguna de Padul, very close to the accommodation. • Information regarding outdoor sports. • Astronomical observations (star-gazing). Organised by the owner, an amateur astronomer, using a small on-site observatory. Planned developments will allow guests to observe microscopic star dust and take their own photographs of the night sky, and to have available a personal planetarium.
cated in the roof: a real delight and present because both owners happen to be amateur astronomers. The four independent houses and the apartment are all equipped with energy-saving systems.The swimming pool also uses a saline treatment system. The accommodation is accredited with the Andalusia Natural Park Brand, guaranteeing the quality of its services.
Facilities • Swimming pool, gardens and barbeque • Balconies with views • Car park • Astronomy observatory • Free internet and Wi-Fi connection • Satellite TV • Fully equipped kitchen
• House for 6 people: 260 €/weekend; 780 €/week • House for 6/8 people: 280 €/weekend; 840 €/week Location Dúrcal (Granada) Solana Alta s/n. Access is via a signposted track Coordinates: 36º 59’ 36’’ N, 3º 35’ 4’’W Capacity 4 houses and 1 apartment, sleeping 20
Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point
Open All year round Prices • House for 2 people: 132 €/weekend; 396 €/week • House for 2/4 people: 170 €/weekend; 510 €/week
Contact details Tel.: 958 78 15 15 / 649 16 18 96 info@alojamientoruralelvalle.com www.alojamientoruralelvalle.com
SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
117
CÁMPING LAS LOMAS Despite the fact that in general in Spain camping is not a mass phenomenon, almost 25% of all tourist accommodation in Spain is in campsites, some of which rate amongst the best in Europe in terms of facilities and natural surroundings. This is the case of Las Lomas, which has been open for over 30 years. Las Lomas is two kilometres outside of GüéjarSierra, a small village on the north face of the Sierra Nevada in the valley of the river Genil, where the high peaks, streams and springs, archaeological remains and monuments are linked physically and metaphorically by historical trails and local traditions. It is impossible to talk of local cuisine without casting one’s mind back in history: after the Jews and Moriscos were expelled at the end of the fifteenth century at the end of the Reconquest, the deserted rural areas were repopulated by people from the north (from Castille, Navarre andValencia), who brought with them culinary traditions that were soon incorporated Accommodation type Class 1 campsite
into local cookery. This explains the presence of pork (forbidden to the Jews and Arabs) as the fundamental ingredient of many of the dishes of the campsite’s restaurant: black pudding (morcilla), fried chorizo, wild mushrooms fried with ham, delicias of kid and, espe-
• Playgroups and workshops for children on the campsite in summer. • Pets welcome (except in cabins).
visitor services and activities • Restaurant with local cuisine. • Visits to the bee-hives of Güéjar-Sierra, where clients can make their own wax veils.
Languages • In summer: English, French, Italian and German • Rest of the year: English and French • On weekdays, a guide from the campsite organises a walk to a bathing pool on the river Genil. • Drive up to the mountain pass of Alguacil for views of the Sierra Nevada. • In summer, the campsite provides clients with a map of the peak of Cerro del Calar, situated opposite the campsite. From its summit, the views over the Genil valley and towards the peaks are spectacular. 118
cially tasty, pork in almond sauce. As a part of its commitment to sustainability, Las Lomas Campsite produces written information about nearby footpaths, enabling clients to walk and enjoy the surroundings without having to use any form of motorised transport.
Facilities • Camping area • Area for camper vans • Cabin rental (fully equipped, except towels) • Restaurant with two garden terraces • Cafe • Supermarket • Laundrette • Internet (in reception) and Wi-Fi • Sports (mini-golf, table tennis) • Children’s playground • Gardens • Swimming pool • Viewpoint • Hydro-massage • Privates baths for families • Facilities for people with reduced mobility • Baby baths (free)
Open All year round
Location Güéjar-Sierra (Granada) Güéjar-Sierra road, km 6.5 Coordinates: 37º 9’ 39.60’’ N, 3º 27’ 58.89’’W
Prices • Pitch (sleeping 2 + tent and car/caravan + light): 29.50 €/night • Cabin sleeping 2-4: 80 €/day
Capacity • Pitches: 100 (sleeping 300) • Cabins: 23 (5 sleeping 2, 11 sleeping 4, and 7 sleeping 5) sleeping in total 89 • 200-cover restaurant
Contact details Tel.: 958 48 47 42 / 958 48 47 34 (restaurant) info@campinglaslomas.com www.campinglaslomas.com
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
BALNEARIO DE LANJARÓN The Balneario de Lanjarón stands at the gates of the Granadan Alpujarras and just a half hour from the city of Granada, and is one of the most popular destinations with the visitors who come to the Sierra Nevada aiming to cleanse both mind and body during their stays. The medicinal properties of this spa’s waters were first noted in the 1770s, although it was not until the nineteenth century that its fame began to spread, and its waters have been put to therapeutic use ever since. Often regarded as the most popular spa in Andalusia, many are attracted to the prestigious Lanjarón therapeutic spa centre by the purity of its waters and the quality of the treatment on offer, which range from bubble baths with relaxing massages, wraps and presotherapy, to a floatarium and beyond. Treatments such as the Secret Garden even take place in the open air. For clients who want further activities to occupy their time, the spa also organises walks in visitor services and activities • Baths. Thermal water treatment in baths, prescribed for rheumatic and kidney illnesses and for general relaxation. • Bubble baths. Bubble baths help relax and are also good for the circulation; they can be accompanied with sedative massages.
the village of Lanjarón, delightfully situated on the flanks of Cerro del Caballo on the southern face of the Sierra Nevada. In recent years, the spa managers have opted to improve local environmental quality by installing one of the largest privately owned solar energy systems in Andalusia. This system heats the minero-medicinal waters of a spring, El Salado, in Lanjarón, thereby avoiding the emission annually of over 200 tonnes of carbon dioxide. As well, as part of its objective of improving its links with the Sierra Nevada National Park, the spa furnishes clients with information about the active tourism companies working in the Sierra Nevada area who offer the opportunity to discover the natural, cultural and scenic charms of these mountains. The Balneario de Lanjarón also actively participates in a number of local-scale projects and, for example, recently helped in setting up of the Museo del
• Pediluvium and maniluvium. Foot- and hand-baths that relax and stimulate the circulation. • Therapeutic showers. Different types of showers — pressure, circular and miorelaxing — relax the muscles and help with circulatory and respiratory problems. • The spa also has a floatarium, a Finnish sauna and a steam bath.
Agua (Museum of Water) in Lanjarón, which describes all the uses the local water has been put to over the years and shows how the town and its waters have always been inextricably linked. As well, in 2008 the owner of the spa provided a venue for the celebration of the Andalusian Honey Fair.
Facilities • Function room • Bar-cafe • Audiovisual facilities • Solarium • Tennis courts • Car park
Official endorsements • ‘Q’ quality tourism label • Park Information Point • Qualicert
• Active tourism. To complement the services provided in the thermal baths, clients can also take part in a number of different activities in the open air organised by companies that operate in the Sierra Nevada National Park and surrounding area.
Contact details Avda. de la Constitución s/n 18420 Lanjarón (Granada) Tel.: 958 77 01 37 informacion@balneariodelanjaron.com www.balneariodelanjaron.com Languages English Open All year round SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
119
CASTILLO DE LANJARÓN The Castillo de Lanjarón hotel, as its name suggests, is located in the spa town of Lanjarón — a delightful maze of white-washed houses and charming little squares, often regarded as the gateway to Las Alpujarras — and has been offering its services to visitors who wish to explore the surrounding countryside for almost seventy years. In the reception area of the hotel, guests are able to consult a wide variety of up-to-date material about the Sierra Nevada protected area, from information about the cultural heritage of the region to details about the range of activity tourism available in the park, as well as a list of local artisans and craftsmen. In addition, the hotel can show video material about the Sierra Nevada on request. One of the most charming features of the hotel is the magnificent views of the Guadalfeo valley and mountain ranges of Lújar and Los Guájares that greet guests from their balconies, although the most eyeAccommodation type Three-star hotel visitor services and activities • As an accredited Park Information Point, the hotel provides guests with material about the park’s natural and cultural resources, as well as information about the various excursions on offer. • Ruta de las Acequias. Guided walks along this trail, which follows the ancient irrigation system built by the Moors, take place every Monday in July, August and September.
catching feature of these vistas is undoubtedly the castle itself: a frontier fort situated on an isolated rocky promontory, of great significance during the time when the area was occupied by the Moors. As history would have it, the fort was defended against a Christian assault by three hundred Moors under the leadership of a notorious chieftain known as ‘The Black Captain’who, when the battle was lost, and the
• In collaboration with a local company, the hotel can organise a wide range of active pursuits. • Pets are welcome.
fort overrun, chose to throw himself from its highest tower, choosing death over surrender. This curious tale is just one among many legends, stories and recipes that have been collected by the proprietors of the Castillo de Lanjarón over the years, which are proffered to guests as a way of inviting them to immerse themselves in the culture and traditions of the region.
Facilities • Cafeteria-bar • Lounge • Garden • TV • Free Wi-Fi in rooms and communal areas • Guests are also welcome to use the computer in reception • Views of the castle from some rooms • 1 room is adapted for people with limited mobility
Open All year round (except from 15 January to 15 February) Languages English
Prices Double room (with breakfast): 62 €/night
Location Lanjarón (Granada) C/ Granada, 1 Coordinates: 36º 55’ 4.85’’ N, 3º 29’ 17.13’’ W
Official endorsements Park Information Point
Capacity 30 rooms, sleeping 60 120
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Contact details Tel.: 958 77 07 12 reservas@hcastillolanjaron.com www.hcastillolanjaron.com
LA ALACENA DE LAUJAR Anyone entering the Alacena de Laujar store — located on the road that links Laujar de Andarax with Fondón, in Almería — finds themselves immersed in a veritable sea of colours, scents and flavours. The shelves are stacked high with tasty morsels of culinary fare of Las Alpujarras: hams from Trevélez, artisan cheeses from Abrucena, chocolates from Pampaneira, the wines of Alboloduy and rich biscuits from Laujar itself. Apart from these mouth-watering gastronomic delights, visitors have the opportunity to purchase craftwork from the region, including local pottery (pitchers, plates and bowls), colourful rugs and carpets, and a wide range of basketwork. In truth, entering María Rosario Rodríguez’s shop is like taking a step back in time. Ever since the enterprising María opened her shop, she has been looking for ways to expand her business. In 2006, the Almería Regional Tourist Board granted her Tourist Information Bureau status, since visitor services and activities • Sale of local produce. La Alacena de Laujar stocks organic foodstuffs and craftwork procured directly from local farmers and artisans. • Oenology courses. Organised in collaboration with La Gabiarra Friends of Wine Association in Laujar, these courses study wine production, blending and tasting.
which time she has been able to provide visitors with an enormous amount of advice as to how to get the best from their stay in the Sierra Nevada.
• Educational talks for schools. The children learn about what comprises an ecological product, and its significance. • Tourist information. La Alacena de Laujar provides visitors with a wealth of information about the Sierra Nevada protected area, so as to help them get the most from their stay in the region.
In 2007, in recognition of Maria’s work — particularly for her efforts in promoting the local economy and conservation of the heritage of the region — La Alacena de Laujar was awarded the Andanatura Prize for Sustainable Development. While encouraging the sale of local produce, María also endeavours to stock only those goods that are guaranteed to have been produced in an environmentally sensitive manner. In addition, she has organised a series of lectures, for the schools of the region, about the significance of consuming organic foodstuffs, as well as courses in oenology (wine making, tasting and blending). María also finds time to contribute to the maintenance of her village, with her most recent project concerning the restoration of the Genara spring in the Laujar picnic area. Together with a group of volunteers from the region, she is aiming to repair the fountain, so that its crystal-clear water will once more be available to the villagers.
Material/equipment provided Informative leaflets about the park Open All year round Official endorsements Park Information Point
Contact details Hermanos Castañeda, 14 04470 Laujar de Andarax (Almería) Tel.: 950 51 34 53 marialacenalaujar@hotmail.com
SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
121
AL-MIHRAS This active tourism and environmental education company has been operating in the Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks and surrounding area for over twelve years. Its objectives, above all, are to promote a better understanding of this protected area, and its activities have been designed so as to combine respect for the environment with learning how to conserve it. A wide repertoire of routes and trails is used for this programme, some of which coincide with the official footpaths of the parks. In order to reduce the environmental impact associated with following these itineraries, Al-Mihras takes its clients to areas of the countryside that are well away from the tourist honey-pot areas, also avoiding more sensitive natural habitats. This strategy is combined with the execution of various excursions at different times of year, so as to avoid excess visitor pressure on any one area. Al-Mihras is particularly renowned for its work with groups of people who visitor services and activities • Walking itineraries. Guided walks through the Sierra Nevada National and Natural Parks.
have difficulty walking in the countryside, good examples of which are the programmes it organises for older and retired people for Almería City Council, and for marginal social groups as part of the programme ‘Nature for Everyone’of the Andalusian Government’s Department of the Environment. As a complementary service, Al-Mihras offers accommodation to its clients in the Casa Rural Monterrey, close to Laujar de Andarax (Almería), in the heart of the Sierra Nevada Natural Park. Originally a forestry station, this building has been recently renovated and is now a public facility that Al-Mihras has the concession to run. It is a two-storey building, comprising two spacious, self-catering units, available to rent independently, both of which are fully equipped. Casa Chullo, situated on the ground floor, sleeps four and is specially adapted for persons with limited mobility, while the upper floor is occupied by Casa Almirez, which sleeps six.
• Multi-adventure activities. Cross-country skiing is one of the most popular sporting activities offered by Al-Mihras, which is practised on level or gently sloping terrain. Because it does not require the enormous infrastructure associated with downhill skiing, it causes much less damage to the environment. Other activities offered include archery, rock climbing, orienteering and a flying fox.
Among its commitments to sustainability, the company has devised a scheme to collect used (cooking) oils from schools. Al-Mihras is intending to expand this initiative to include the villages of the region, Alcolea, Bayárcal, Fondón, Fuente Victoria, Paterna del Río and, of course, Laujar de Andarax, which is where the scheme is based.
Among the activities on offer during the day-long courses are walks around the crops cultivated on the farm, environmental education workshops, a visit to the ethnographic museum to learn about traditional farm implements, etc. This programme is suitable for all ages, and includes a breakfast prepared from organic ingredients. Material/equipment provided Everything needed to participate in the various workshops and activities (rock climbing, archery, etc.) Languages German, English, French and Turkish Open All year round
• Cultural routes. Walks around the villages of the Andarax valley, to explore their churches, chapels, mansions and vernacular architecture, as well as the way of life, traditions and history of their inhabitants. These can be combined with visits to some of the farming enterprises in the region, such as an organic vineyard, a potter’s workshop, a sweet-making venture, an oil press, etc. 122
• Environmental education. This programme of activities takes place on the organic farm of Cortijo El Cura, which lies between the Sierra Nevada and the Sierra de Gádor, close to Laujar de Andarax. It provides a working example of sustainable development and is therefore a marvellous place to learn about the importance of conserving the environment in situ.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Contact details C/ Covadonga, 4 04470 Laujar de Andarax (Almería) Tel.: 950 51 41 49 / 655 84 64 77 info@al-mihras.com www.al-mihras.com
LOS MOLINOS DE PADUL To talk of the mills (molinos) of Padul is to talk of water, the key element in this ancient flour mill dating from Moorish times. It has been restored using original materials including Arabic tiles, whitewashed walls, mud floors and even original-style furniture. A multitude of fascinating corners will delight visitors, who will also find a true garden where it is not unusual to find fish swimming in the mill race or see birds perched amongst the plants. Various species of flora have been planted as examples of local flora or as traditional species found in the region’s gardens. The Molinos de Padul also has a corral, whose fresh eggs can be savoured during a delicious breakfast, and then a few minutes can be spared to greet the donkey, a children’s favourite. Another of the attractions is the ethnographic museum, including the mill’s machinery, still in perfect working order, and other objects such as old farm tools and kitchen utensils. Accommodation type Holiday Home (Vivienda Turística Vacacional) visitor services and activities • The accommodation provides information on the park and contacts for numerous other activities: skiing, hiking, cycling, horse riding and guided excursions to the Laguna de Padul.
This rural accommodation is just a stone’s throw away from Granada, the Sierra Nevada, the beach and Las Alpujarras. Additionally, for birdwatchers, the Laguna de Padul lies very close by. This wetland (300 ha) forms part of the Sierra Nevada Natural Park and is included in the Ramsar agreement. Over 150 bird species have been recorded here, the most notable being wintering wetland species such as Bluethroat, Eurasian Penduline-tit and Eurasian Reed Bunting. For those looking for peace and tranquility, attractive options exist such as visits to the Ibero-roman trail, the Mal Nombre spring or the Padul Nigüelas ge-
ological fault; those wanting to walk will soon discover the proximity of the GR-7, the Sulayr trail and the Ruta de los Molinos (Route of the Mills).
Location Padul (Granada) Camino de los Molinos s/n. Signposted from the centre of Padul village Coordinates: 37º 0’ 26.30’’ N, 3º 37’ 15.88’’ W
• One of the apartments has good access for people with reduced mobility • Bicycles (free for clients) • Equipped kitchen • Communal washing machine • Small saloon with chimney and TV • TV and DVD in all apartments Open All year round Capacity 3 apartments, sleeping 12
• Parascending and hang-gliding strips are located very close by. • Sales of local agricultural food products. Languages English and French
Facilities • Ancient Moorish mill containing a small ethnographic museum • Garden with barbeque • Swimming pool • Small lake • Children’s playground • Car park
Prices 4-people apartments: 80 €/day, 550 €/week Official endorsements Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 958 79 08 13 / 600 09 94 04 info@molinosdepadul.com www.molinosdepadul.com SIERRA NEVADA NATIONAL AND NATURAL PARKS
123
HOTEL RESTAURANTE LA FRAGUA La Fragua is located in Trevélez, the highest village in Las Alpujarras in the province of Granada, and undoubtedly one of the most charming in the region. The hotel forms part of the best-conserved of the three districts that comprise the village — the Barrio Medio — where most of the houses have been built in true Alpujarran architectural style: constructed of local stone, with flat roofs topped with launa (an impermeable clay of the region) and stone slabs around the eaves. The narrow streets of the town are lined with dwellings typical of the architecture of Las Alpujarras, whose mortared, white-washed walls are punctuated by deep-set windows and doors that keep out the cold in winter and the heat in summer. Comprising two hotels and a restaurant, and offering a high-quality service, La Fragua is perhaps the most emblematic accommodation complex in Trevélez, renowned also for its knowledge of the Sierra Nevada and its commitment to nature conservation in the protected area. Many of the best-known trails of the Sierra Nevada start from the hotel itself, including the ascent of Mulhacén. Year after year, the traditional pilgrimage to this summit leaves a considAccommodation type • La Fragua I, one-star hotel • La Fragua II, two-star hotel
erable quantity of rubbish in its wake, such that La Fragua has embarked on an awareness campaign — involving posters and informative meetings — to alert the villagers to the potential environmental impact of this event. The gastronomy of La Fragua not only offers a range of the traditional farmers’ dishes of the region — migas del pastor (literally ‘shepherd’s bread-
• Restaurant specialised in traditional home cooking. Languages English Location Trevélez (Granada) C/ San Antonio, 4 Coordinates: 37º 0’ 0.80’’ N, 3º 16’ 0.74’’ W
crumbs’!), stews of potatoes and pork, and kid cooked with garlic — but also an interesting variety of vegetarian meals, using home-grown ingredients. The hotel collaborates with several companies that offer activity tourism in the area, in this way not only supporting the local economy, but also providing their guests with a wide range of leisure opportunities: walking, horse-trekking routes, cycling excursions, etc.
Facilities • Restaurant with tapas bar • Cafeteria (breakfasts for guests) • Library • Lounge with open fire • Free Wi-Fi internet connection, also in some of the rooms • TV • Swimming pool • Covered car park Open All year round (except from 10 January to 10 February)
visitor services and activities • La Fragua organises activities for its guests in collaboration with the active tourism company Nevadensis: horsetrekking excursions, mountain-bike hire, canyoning and 4WD routes. • Each year the company carries out an environmental awareness campaign, involving both its guests and the villagers, in order to collect the rubbish produced during the annual pilgrimage to Mulhacén. 124
Prices Double room: 45-55 €/night Official endorsements • ‘Q’ quality tourism label (La Fragua II and the restaurant) • Park Information Point
Capacity • 24 rooms, sleeping 42. 1 room is suitable for people with limited mobility • 50-cover restaurant
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Contact details Tel.: 958 85 86 26 / 958 85 85 12 / 958 85 85 73 (restaurant) reservas@hotellafragua.com www.hotellafragua.com
SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK The largest protected area in Spain Like a breaching whale, the sierras of Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas emerge from a sea of olive groves in the heart of the province of Jaén, and form one of the most complex mountain ranges in the whole of Andalusia. These limestone mountains, replete with towering cliffs and rocky crags, are covered by some of the most extensive pine forests in the whole of Spain, and the management of these magnificent forests of various different species of pine provide a complete reflection of the history of forestry in Spain over the centuries. Big-game hunting is another traditional activity in these mountains, as many of the Iberian Peninsula’s largest ungulates live here — some native like the Iberian Ibex (undoubtedly the park’s best-known mammal) and others like the Mouflon and Roe Deer introduced. Nevertheless, the most threatened animal species in the park is probably the Lammergeier, which after having becoming extinct in the 1980s has returned to the park’s skies thanks to a reintroduction project. The region’s flora, however, is perhaps the most significant natural aspect of this Natural Park, the largest in Spain; around 1,500 plants have been recorded from within the park, about a fifth of all the plants known from the Iberian Peninsula, of which 24 are endemic to the Natural Park.
This chapter of the guide has been promoted by:
Panoramic view of the Sierra de la Cabrilla.
overing almost 210,000 ha (similar in size to the island of Tenerife), the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park is the largest protected area in Spain and one of the largest in Europe. The best-known range in this complex area of knife-edged and principally limestone mountains is the Sierra de Cazorla, in the south of the park. In general the main mountain ridges run south-west to north-east and are separated by the river Guadalquivir, Andalusia’s principal watercourse, which rises in the Natural Park. The sheer cliffs of the high mountains to the east of the river tower above the valley bottoms in a landscape that is so typical of the Cazorla-Segura region. To the west of the valley in the Sierra de Las Villas, on the other hand, the landscape has undergone more intense erosion and numerous tributary gullies and deeply scored valleys split the mountainsides, likewise boasting spectacular sheers cliffs, dozens of metres high. The Sierra de Segura, which occupies two-thirds of the park, takes its name from the other great river, the Segura, that rises in this protected area. However, unlike the Atlantic-bound Guadalquivir, the Segura heads in the opposing direction and eventually flows into the Mediterranean. Owing to its size and the complexity of its relief, it is difficult to highlight any one vantage point in the park that gives views over its whole immensity. Nevertheless, there are a series of peaks whose summits provide breathtaking panoramas that will leave no one indifferent — Cabañas (2,027 m), Gilillo (1,847 m) and Empanadas (2.107 m), the latter the highest point in the Natural Park and offering superb views over the neighbouring Sierra de Castril (province of Granada) — and on very clear days the sea is visible in the far distance. The Sierra de Segura is more modest in height and is dominated by the peaks of Banderillas (1,993 m) and Yelmo (1,808 m), off of which the intrepid launch themselves in hang-gliders and enjoy wonderful bird’s-eye views of the park, before landing in the valley 1,000 m below.
C
Plateaux and valleys The mountains of the park form part of the limestone Cordillera Bética. Many of the region’s most spectacular landscapes have been sculpted by karstic erosion; the rivers have cut deep into the limestone and today run through intricate valleys separating the high plateaux that accumulate the waters that feed their sources. This is the case, for example, of the deep gullies known as cerradas, of which the most visited are La Cerrada de Utrero on the river Guadalquivir and La Cerrada de Elías on the river Borosa. This latter gorge has been equipped with 500 m of wooden walkway fixed to the sheer cliffs, in places at a height of 10 metres above the river. Further upstream, visitors will come to one of the most magical sites in the Natural Park, the waterfalls of Los Órganos, where the river cascades over an outcrop of tufa, a type of limestone rock created when the calcium carbonate dissolved in water precipitates out. Another waterfall, La Cascada de Linarejos, which intermittently pours over a sheer cliff carved out by the river Guadalquivir, is equally attractive and has become one the most-photographed landscapes in the whole park. On the immense high plateaux (or calares) the rainwater and snowmelt slowly dissolve the limestone rocks, creating fractured limestone pavements of sculpted white and grey stone. Where the dissolution of the limestone has been most intense, dolines — depressions — dot the landscape and when seen in a bird’s-eye view, the pattern formed by the dolines of Los Campos de Hernán Perea in La Sierra de Segura is especially eye-catching. Within this area lies El Pinar Negro, one of the most complete karstic landscapes in Andalusia, where caves such as El Hundimiento and Pinar Negro provide access into the very entrails of the mountains. The eight-metre wide entrance to the Pinar Negro cave lies in the centre of a large doline with a diameter of over 100 metres, and experienced speleoloSIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
127
gists have followed its interconnected chambers as far as 155 metres below the surface. In this broken landscape, the calares alternate with muelas, another type of high plateau, but the main settlements are to be found below in the valleys created by the rivers and streams as they carve their paths through these labyrinthic mountains. The cradle of the rivers The river Guadalquivir — ‘Betis’ to the Romans and ‘Al-wadi al-Kabir’ (the Great River) to the Moors — rises in the Sierra de Cazorla. Although no consensus exists as to the actual source of this, the Andalusian river par excellence, El Nacimiento del Guadalquivir (the Source) at 1,350 m in La Cañada de las Fuentes (near Quesada) is a must for most visitors. This natural spring is normally generous in its flow, although it can dry up in periods of drought. Although this spring is officially described as the source of the Guadalquivir, historical records and recent calculations and geographical studies seem to suggest that the true source is elsewhere. Be this as it may, most of the upper course of the Guadalquivir, around 70 km, runs through the Natural Park. Forced by the surrounding mountains to head north at first towards the Mediterranean, the river boasts a series of delightful rock pools and small waterfalls, and passes under charming bridges such as El Puente de las Herrerías, dating from the fifteenth century. The river Guadalentín, on the other hand, runs between sheer cliffs in the opposite direction, north-south. One of the park’s most evocative of marked trails runs from La Trinchera to the spring, La Fuente del Acero, along this river and it is worth walking as far as the pools at La Cerrada de la Canaliega for a quick solitary dip. Before heading towards Pozo Alcón and joining the river Guadiana Menor, the river Guadalentín is damned and forms the reservoir of La Bolera. Without doubt, the river Borosa, is another ‘must-see’ site. Its source is the spring of Aguas Negras at the foot of the Sierra de Banderillas in the Sierra de Segura near La Laguna de Valdeazores. The park’s other great river is the Segura, which flows into the Mediterranean after rising at Fuente Segura near Pontones in a sump or cave, flooded by green crystalline waters, in a beautiful open mountain valley. It is worth mentioning two of its main tributaries, the river Madera and Zumeta; the latter runs through a narrow canyon, while, according to experts, the former is home to one of the best Black Pine forests in Spain and verdant riparian vegetation composed of Hazels, ashes, willows and poplars.
Upper course of the river Guadalquivir in the gorge of Cerrada de Utrero. 128
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Ancient pines The forests that cover the sierras of Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas embody one of the most extensive tree masses in the whole of Spain. Today, pines dominate and the story behind the management and
exploitation of these vast forests provides an excellent compendium of the history of forestry practices in Spain. The most important tree species is the Black Pine (Pinus nigra subsp. salzmannii), with its unmistakeable silvery bark. It is the longest-lived of all Iberian pines and in some parts of Cazorla and Segura the forests are thought to be populated by some of the oldest trees in Spain. It is known that some living trees had sprouted even before El Cid roamed these forests back around the year 1050. Typically the Black Pine is accompanied by stunted Common Junipers, Savin, thymes and brooms, while at lower altitudes, where it rains less, this pine is replaced by Maritime and Aleppo Pines. Nonetheless, visitors to the Natural Park will also find stands of deciduous Pyrenean and Lusitanian Oaks, and Italian and Montpellier Maples. Normally these maples are found individually and not as single-species woodland, although one site that should be visited is the maple forest along the river Madera that in autumn turns spectacular shades of yellow through to red. Another tree that is at its best in autumn is the Dogwood, which occasionally forms pure stands. In the most humid parts of the Sierra de Segura there are stands of pure Hazel, a typical northern species that can be found alongside Holly and Whitebeam in places such as La Cueva del Agua and Las Acebeas, between Siles and Segura de la Sierra. The most Mediterranean forests consist of magnificent tracts of Holm Oak woodland, for example in the Sierra de Quesada, to the south of the village of the same name, and the Zumeta valley near Santiago de la Espada, although in many areas of the park the Holm Oaks are mixed in with Lusitanian Oaks. Along the river banks wind lines of riparian woodland dominated by tall poplars, ashes, willows and elms.
The vascular flora of these sierras is rich and varied, boasting around 1,500 plant species, about a fifth of the total number of plants known from the Iberian Peninsula. Around 24 of these plants are endemic to the Natural Park and it is worth highlighting the butterwort Pinguicula vallisneriifolia, an insectivorous plant that feeds on the insects that are trapped by its sticky leaves, the Cazorla Geranium (Geranium cazorlense), only found in the Sierra del Pozo, the columbine Aquilegia pyrenaica subsp. cazorlensis, the stork’s-bill Erodium cazorlanum and the Cazorla Violet (Viola cazorlensis). In the Torre del Vinagre Botanical Garden all these rare and fascinating species can be admired without disturbing their habitats. The forests and game animals of these mountains first began to be managed in the eighteenth century; in the middle of that century forests began to be replanted and cared for and, along with hunting, began to act as the driving-force of the local economy. In the mid-1950s, when the Wolf, Roe Deer and Wild Boar had all died out due to excessive human pressure, but as Iberian Ibex populations were actually improving, Red and Fallow Deer, and Mouflon were (re)-introduced into the local hunting reserve, the Coto Nacional de Cazorla-Segura, which today is now an Andalusian Hunting Reserve. Today in Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas, as in the rest of Spain, habitat conservation and public access are increasingly becoming more important in forestry management than the commercial exploitation of the forests. And in terms of the local fauna, the Lammergeier has returned, but the growing populations of Mouflon and Fallow Deer are beginning to threaten the endemic flora and even the Iberian Ibex, which it tends to displace from feeding areas.
From left to right: Cazorla Violet (Viola cazorlensis); Limestone cliffs and pine forests in the Sierra de las Villas; Cazorla Geranium (Geranium cazorlense). SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
129
From left to right: Lammergeiers now fly in Cazorla again after having been reintroduced; Griffon Vulture; Iberian Ibex, the park’s most symbolic animal species.
A faunal reservoir Since time immemorial these mountains have been an important refuge for fauna thanks to their forests, ruggedness and the direct or indirect protection they have received. First of all, military orders after the Reconquest and then the Navy protected its forests, in the latter case as a source of wood for shipbuilding. Subsequently, they were declared a National Hunting Reserve in the 1950s and a Natural Park in 1986. All in all, the local fauna has always enjoyed a greater degree of protection — and management in the case of game species — than other similar protected areas. The Natural Park is home to a very complete community of vertebrates, boasting 36 mammal, 130 breeding bird, 21 reptile, 12 amphibian and 11 fish species. Most visitors to the park are probably attracted by the large ungulates that between September and December are rutting. The sound of the barking of the Red and Roe Deer and the clashing horns of the Mouflon and Iberian Ibex (in that chronological order) waft on the autumn winds throughout much of the park. Other interesting mammals include the forest bats and the threatened Iberian endemic Cabrera’s Vole, here in one of its most southerly populations. A different subspecies from the rest of Spain of the agile Red Squirrel (with a darker tail) frequents the forests of Cazorla and Segura (as well as the nearby Sierra de Alcaraz in the province of Albacete) and is the symbol of the comarca (region) of the Sierra de Segura. Pride of place amongst the birds must go the cliff-nesting raptors — Golden Eagle, Griffon and Egyptian Vultures and Peregrine Falcon — that find a safe home on the myriad of cliffs of these sierras. The extensive forests are hunted over by the Booted and Shorttoed Eagles and Goshawk, whilst in the pine forests tits and other conifer-loving species abound. Relative to the total number of species present in the Iberian Peninsula, the amphibians are the most species-rich group; as well, in the context of these mountains inevitably one has to talk of a lizard, the Spanish Algyroides (Algyroides marchii), which is confined to the mountains of Cazorla, Castril, La Sagra and Alcaraz. 130
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
The problems of the Iberian Ibex If there is one animal that represents the essence of the Spanish mountains and, above all, of Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas, then it is the Iberian Ibex. Notwithstanding its status as an Iberian endemic, this ungulate is of great interest as an indicator of habitat quality in mountain areas, as an important game (and thus economic) species and for its conservation history over past centuries. After suffering serious declines in the past, ibex populations have been thriving in recent decades, although in the park this tendency has been halted in the last years. These sierras boasted the best Iberian population of the Ibex until the end of the 1980s, when an mange epidemic reduced its population to just over 200 animals, the low point from which local populations have partially recovered to the 1,300 ibex counted in 2007 in the Cazorla and Segura Andalusian Hunting Reserve (66,000 ha within the Natural Park). The decline in local ibex populations was the signal for Fallow Deer and Mouflon, both introduced species, to expand and occupy the ecological niche of the ibex. The return of the ‘bone-breaker’ A hundred years ago the Lammergeier was a common sight in the skies over many Andalusian mountains. By the 1950s, though, direct persecution, poisoning and egg-collecting by European museums and collectors had reduced the Andalusian population to just five pairs, all in the mountains of Cazorla and Segura. But by 1986 even these birds had succumbed and the Lammergeier was extinct in Andalusia. However, in recent years an ambitious captive breeding project aimed at reintroducing the Lammergeier into these mountains, promoted by the Andalusian Government and run by Fundación Gypaetus, has been set in motion, based around the Guadalentín Recuperation Centre in La Nava de San Pedro. The programme has already had its successes and between 2006 and 2009 twelve immature Lammergeiers were released, although some have died through poisoning, gunshot wounds or natural causes. Not until the young females birds reach sexual maturity and breed will it be possible to affirm that the Lammergeier has returned to what is one of the most emblematic of all Andalusian mountainous areas.
A long human history From prehistoric times and right up to the present day practically all the peoples that have ever occupied the Iberian Peninsula have at some time or another passed through the Cazorla region, from Ibers to Moors. The Middle Ages left their mark in the form of numerous castles such as Bujaraiza, whose hilltop ruins are isolated when the waters of the Tranco reservoir rise to their highest point, Segura de la Sierra and La Iruela and, in the town of Cazorla, La Yedra and Las Cinco Esquinas. From the Middle Ages right through to the nineteenth century many of the towns in the Natural Park were dependent on the Bishopric of Toledo, in the guise of a feudal body known as the Adelantamiento de Cazorla, while some of the towns in the Sierra de Segura belonged to the militarised Order of Santiago. Both institutions governed these towns for centuries, thereby influencing their cultures and traditions. In one way or another, local inhabitants have always lived off the land. In terms of agriculture, the olive is king and the famous local oils have been awarded two Denominations of Origin — Sierra de Segura and Sierra de Cazorla. You cannot talk of the province of Jaén without mentioning its olive groves, nor understand local culture and society without referring to this traditional crop. To reach the uplands of Cazorla, Segura and Las Villas, visitors must first cross a sea of olive groves, which those who make it to the peaks will see extending away endlessly at their feet. Today, olive cultivation is more important than ever and is the cornerstone of the rural economy of the province of Jaén, which accounts for almost half of Spain’s total olive oil production. In recent years the surface area devoted to olives groves has continued to increase.
Logging campaings The mountains of Cazorla and Segura have historically been one of the most important areas for timber production in Spain, and for at least ten centuries wood has been extracted from these forests, often using the waters of the rivers Guadalquivir and Segura for transportation. Epochs of intense extraction have come and gone and, for example, in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries many local people found work producing timber for the Spanish Navy, to the extent that the mountains were organised into maritime provinces; the Natural Park belonged to the province of Segura. The felling campaigns and extraction along rivers were known as maderadas or pinadas and the main destination for the wood were the shipyards of Cartagena, Seville and Cádiz. With the decadence of the shipyards, the railways filled the gap and millions of railway sleepers were cut from the forests of these mountains. Working conditions were tough: men used handsaws and axes to fell the pines, which were then dragged by mules to the nearest river, where they were converted into sleepers. Here the sleepers were thrown into the water and were accompanied dozens of kilometres downstream by gancheros or pineros to the nearest railhead. The last great maderada took place in 1949, although the extraction of timber by RENFE, the Spanish rail company, to supply all the new lines it was building, continued until 1988 (and even after the declaration of the Natural Park). Today what little timber extraction that still takes place is conducted under much more restrictive criteria and orientated towards the better conservation of the region’s natural values.
(Left, top) Panorama of the village of Cazorla. (Left, bottom) Segura de la Sierra. (Centre) Castillo de la Hiedra in the village of Cazorla. (Right, top) A sea of olive groves surrounds the Natural Park (Right, bottom) Segureña sheep grazing in the Campos de Hernán Perea. SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
131
PRACTICAL INFORMATION AND PUBLIC FACILITIES Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las villas Natural Park • Date declared. 16 March 1986 • Surface area. 209,920 ha • Province. Jaén • Municipalities (in the park and in its socioeconomic area of influence). Arroyo del Ojanco, Beas de Segura, Benatae, Cazorla, Chilluévar, Génave, Hinojares, Hornos de Segura, Huesa, Iznatoraf, La Iruela, La Puerta de Segura, Orcera, Peal de Becerro, Pozo Alcón, Puente de Génave, Quesada, Santiago-Pontones, Santo Tomé, Segura de La Sierra, Siles, Sorihuela del Guadalimar, Torres de Albánchez, Villacarrillo, Villanueva del Arzobispo, Villarrodrigo. • ECST accreditation. 2004 • Other types of protection. Biosphere Reserve, Special Protection Area for Birds, Site of Community Importance • Contact details Cazorla office: C/ Martínez Falero, 11. Tel.: 953 71 15 34 Siles office: C/ Familia Marín Martínez, 5, bajo. Tel.: 953 49 95 64 pn.cazorla.cma@juntadeandalucia.es Go to Ventana del Visitante at: www.juntadeandalucia.es/medioambiente vISITOR FACILITIES TORRE DEL VINAGRE VISITOR CENTRE This centre stands on the road between the towns of Cazorla and Hornos de Segura, close by to some of the most interesting sites of this magnificent Natural Park. Its exhibition rooms provide visitors with an introduction to the many different ecosystems, and their associated flora and fauna, present in the park, from the towering cliffs to the many water courses and dense forests. Likewise, visitors will find information about the villages of the region and how local inhabitants have garnered a living from the land (above all from olive groves) over the centuries. There is also a room devoted to the main game species found in the park. • Location and contact details. Road from Cazorla to El Tranco (A-319), km 48.8. SantiagoPontones. Tel.: 953 71 30 17 • Services. Projection room, cafeteria and shop selling books, maps and souvenirs. • Opening times. November-March: 10-14 and 16-18; April-June: 10-14 and 16-19; July and August: 10-14 and 17-20; September and October: 10-14 and 16-19. Monday closed. • Access for people with reduced mobility 132
TORRE DEL VINAGRE BOTANICAL GARDEN Within this botanical garden grows a varied selection of the Natural Park’s rich flora, which includes numerous endemic and threatened species. Plants from other parts of Andalusia are also represented. • Location and contact details. Road from Cazorla to El Tranco (A-319), km 48.8. SantiagoPontones. Tel.: 953 71 30 29 • Opening times. May-September: 10-14 and 17-19; October-April: 10-14 and 15-17. • Access for people with reduced mobility RÍO BOROSA VISITOR CENTRE Located next to the river Borosa, one of the most attractive parts of the Natural Park, this centre boasts a path that visitors can follow as a means of complementing their visit to the exhibitions, which graphically describe the park’s fluvial ecosystems and how water has sculpted many of the park’s landscapes. There is also a display that explains how the rivers were once used to transport cut timber downstream.
RECREATIONAL FACILITIES PICNIC AREAS In all, there are 21 picnic areas in the Natural Park, many of which are suitable for people with limited mobility and found in the most of the municipalities of the park. VIEwPOINTS The park has 17 viewpoints, many of which are suitable for people with limited mobility and foundinthemostofthemunicipalitiesofthepark. FOOTPAThS AND TRAILS A total of 20 waymarked paths belonging to the Andalusian Network of Natural Spaces exists in the park, of which the following are some of the best to explore this protected area: • River Borosa. This path begins near the Río Borosa Visitor Centre and runs along the river, through a verdant but rugged landscape. One of the most singular points of the path is the socalled Cerrada de Elías, a narrow gorge, just a few metres wide, carved out by the river Borosa. Length: 9 km. Time to Cerrada and back: 2-3 h.
• Acebeas-Navalperal. To climb the peak of Navalperal, walkers should follow this path, which passes through a verdant forest full of Holly and Hazels. On the way to the summit, the path also visits an interesting Black Pine forest. Access from km 12 of the JF-7012 road, which begins in Siles. Length: 3.2 km (ascent). Time: 1 h 45 min. OThER FACILITIES COLLADO DEL ALMENDRAL ANIMAL PARk Road from Cazorla to El Tranco (A-319), km 59.7, Hornos de Segura. Open all year from dawn to dusk, within this large fenced-off park live a number of the most representative ungulates of the Natural Park (Iberian Ibex, Red and Fallow Deer, and Mouflon). EL SEQUERO INTERPRETATION, VISITOR RECEPTION AND MYCOLOGICAL INFORMATION POINT This centre is located in a restored timber-drying building that has been converted into an interpretation centre, which describes how pine-nuts are produced in the area and different aspects of the natural and cultural history of the Sierra de Segura. Also open, an exhibition on the fungi and their ecological function. Siles. Tel.: 953 49 00 11 www.sierradesegura.org ETHNOGRAPHICAL MUSEUM OF THE ARTS AND CRAFTS OF THE SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARk Museum devoted to the traditional ways of life of the people of these mountains (lime-burners, charcoal-makers, resin-producers, etc.), with an exhibition of the tools they used, old photographs and other artefacts related to the customs of these sierras. Road from Cazorla to El Tranco (A-319), km 37.9, Arroyo Frío (La Iruela). Tel.: 953 72 72 49 www.turismoencazorla.com
• Location and contact details. Road from Cazorla to El Tranco (A-319), km 48 (1.5 km from the turn-off to Loma de Mariángela and the river Borosa). Santo Tomé. Tel.: 953 12 42 35 • Services. Small shop selling gifts. • Opening times. January-March and OctoberDecember, Wednesday-Sunday: 10-14 and 1618; April-September, Wednesday-Sunday: 10-14 and 17-19; July and August, Wednesday-Sunday: 10-14 and 17-20. • Access for people with reduced mobility
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
• Cerrada de Utrero. Walkers can follow this path along the river Guadalquivir to the waterfall of La Cola de Caballo or Linarejos. A little further on is the Cerrada de Utrero, a long narrow gorge carved out of the limestone rock. Length: 1.5 km. Time: 1 h-1 h 30 min. • Aguascebas Reservoir. This trail circumnavigates the reservoir and takes walkers towards the waterfall of Chorrogil, one the highest cascades in the park. Access from the reservoir road in the Sierra de las Villas. Length: 5.2 km. Time: 2 h.
CASTILLO DE SEGURA - FRONTIERTERRITORY Exhibition distributed throughout the whole of the castle of Segura de la Sierra, which describes the importance of this region during the golden age of the Order of Santiago. Also details of the life of the pre-Renaissance poet Jorge Manrique, a native of these sierras. Segura de la Sierra. Tel.: 953 48 04 21 www.sierradesegura.org
Villarrodrigo
1
Río Borosa Visitor Centre
2
Torre del Vinagre Visitor Centre
CM-412 CM-3204
Génave 3 JB Torre del Vinagre Botanical Garden Torres de Albánchez
Siles
A-310 Puente de Génave
Benatae La Puerta de Segura
N-322 Arroyo del Ojanco
A-317
Beas de Segura A-6301 Sorihuela del Guadalimar
Orcera Segura de la Sierra
CASTILLA-LA MANCHA
Hornos
Villanueva del Arzobispo Iznatoraf Embalse del Tranco
Pontones
Villacarrillo
A-317
Santiago de la Espada
N-322 Torreperogil
A-6204 Santo Tomé
A-317 MURCIA
1 2
JB 3
Chilluévar
Puebla de Don Fadrique
A-315
A-330
La Iruela A-319 Cazorla Peal de Becerro
A-317
Quesada Huéscar
A-330
A-326 Castril Huesa
A-326
Embalse de la Bolera
Pozo Alcón
0
5
10
15
km
SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
133
COMPLEJO LA VEGUILLA La Veguilla is located in the Sierra de Segura, close to Arroyo del Ojanco. Originally — more than a century ago — it was a farm dedicated to the production of olive oil, but in 1977 the property was acquired by its present proprietors, who have transformed it into a tourist complex consisting of a hostal and nine apartments, along with large function rooms for weddings and other celebrations, two swimming pools, a children’s play-area and a cafeteria, bar and restaurant offering typical local cuisine. Guests at La Veguilla can choose from a range of additional activities offered by collaborating companies, including active outdoor pursuits such as paragliding and rafting. The complex provides guests with a detailed map of the Natural Park, and also offers guided visits to some of the local oil mills and presses, to learn about their operation.There is also a shop where guests can purchase local produce. In the near future, La Veguilla will become an accredited Park Information Point. Accommodation type Two-star hostal Self-catering apartments (1 key)
Location Arroyo del Ojanco (Jaén) Linares to Beas road, km 79.3 Coordinates: 38º 17’ N, 2º 57’W
• Children’s playground • Football pitch • Solarium • Wi-Fi available in all the buildings
Capacity • Hostal: 7 rooms, sleeping 14 • Apartments: 9 apartments, sleeping 32 • 80-cover restaurant
• Apartments with fully equipped kitchen, TV and open fire • Communal lounge with open fire in the apartments • Access for people with limited mobility to the communal areas of the hostal, and to two specially adapted rooms • 1 apartment adapted for people with limited mobility
visitor services and activities • Information about the park. • Guided tours of oil mills and presses in the area can be arranged. • Contact with companies offering activity tourism in the region (sight-seeing trips, walking, multi-adventure activities). • Sale of organic produce (olive oil). • Pets are welcome.
Languages English and French 134
Facilities • Restaurant, cafeteria • Garden • Swimming pool • Function rooms (weddings, meetings)
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Open All year round Prices • Hostal: double room 50 €/night • Apartments: 80-108 €/night (according to the type of apartment)
Official endorsements • Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 953 42 54 82 / 635 64 85 22 laveguilla@laveguilla.es www.laveguilla.es
OLIVAIR. Flying & Adventure Services Olivair is based in the Sierra de Segura and is a sport and recreational company devoted to flying that offers other adventure sports to complement its aerial activities. The founders of Olivair have been working professionally for almost 20 years in the field of aerial excursions, and have been awarded a number of national and international paragliding and paramotor diplomas as a result of having collaborated in the design of flying apparatus and systems for a number of different equipment makers. As well, the company identifies with and is fully committed to the sustainable development of tourism in the Natural Park and region as a whole. The company is based in the aerodrome of El Cornicabral (Beas de Segura) and in the valley of Cortijos Nuevos (Segura de la Sierra), a stone’s throw away from El Yelmo, a well-known peak that is also one of the best spots for practising aerial sports in Spain and visitor services and activities • Twin paragliding, paratrike and ultra-light flights and courses. Passengers receive all the instruction needed to take off and fly in total safety. • Flying courses. These courses are designed to teach learners how to pilot a paraglider, paramotor or paratrike.
• Multi-adventure programmes. Designed with groups in mind, these programmes are tailor-made on demand and include typically the company’s normal aerial activities, as well as horse-trekking and 4WD routes, climbing, walking, canoeing, rafting and canyoning.
the whole of southern Europe. Additionally, there is plenty of accommodation in the area for clients to stay in. Olivair run aerial sport activities such as paragliding, paramotor and paratrikes, or aero-terrestrial activities such as kite-buggy and kite-surf; clients are at all times — and with all possible safety precautions taken — guided and helped by monitors. The company also runs flying courses that aim to provide users with the necessary skill to fly solo and safely any of the various different type of so-called micro-light flying machines. To complement their aerial activities and, above all in case of adverse meteorological conditions, Olivair also offers multi-adventure programmes for groups and companies. These activities can be tailormade to fit the group — i.e. in terms of number, age and aims, for example — and involve all type of outdoor adventure sports. Material/equipment provided • All the equipment needed to take part in the activities, winter or summer • Electric bicycles (with or without guide) • Transport during the activities (reservation necessary)
Languages English, French and Italian
Open All year round • Electric bicycles. In these bicycles a small rechargeable electric motor, with a range of three hours, complements traditional pedal-power and permits those who are not in form to contemplate much more strenuous rides than they might otherwise have done.
Contact details Apdo. de Correos, 58 23280 Beas de Segura (Jaén) Tel.: 953 42 54 82 / 953 49 63 62 / 607 30 17 16 / 655 92 34 28 info@olivair.es www.olivair.es SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
135
HOTEL RURAL EL CURRO
La Iruela is an attractive village of steep, winding streets and white-washed houses, presided over by the silhouette of a Templar castle — declared a Historic Monument in 1985 — that clings to the precipitous crags that overlook the settlement. Close by lies the hamlet of Burunchel, strategically sited amid the rocky escarpments that form the threshold to the Puerto de Las Palomas and the upper Guadalquivir valley. Accommodation type Three-star country hotel
El Curro was built in this small, peaceful village in 2001, and was recently renovated so as to provide guests with an even greater level of comfort, but at the same time preserving the unique family ambience. One of the outstanding features of the hotel is its restaurant, whose menu honours the traditional cuisine of the region, including gastronomic delights such as creamed rice with seasonal wild mushrooms and fresh vegetables, or lomo de orza con rin-ran (pork with a tomato-based conserve), free-range meats cooked in the local style, rabbit stew, etc. In the reception area of the hotel guests have the opportunity to peruse a comprehensive range of information and maps about the park and the activity tourism on offer here. Because El Curro is located in the heart of the countryside, guests who wish to forget about their car for a few days have the opportunity to explore the surrounding area on foot, or to cycle along some of the many trails that encircle the
hotel, taking advantage of a new venture denominated Escapada Campo y Montaña. In the near future, the proprietors of El Curro will produce a series of interpretative leaflets for these itineraries, as part of their commitment to promoting local customs and the traditional way of life. Another option is to visit the co-operative olive-presses of Aceite de Burunchel, where it is possible to sample and purchase some of the magnificent olive oils produced in the region.
Capacity • 29 rooms, sleeping 45 • 70-cover restaurant
visitor services and activities • Information about activities on offer in the region. • Contact with companies offering activity tourism in the area (walking, horse trekking, 4WD routes, rafting, canoeing, caving, wildlife observation, archery, etc.). • Traditional cuisine.
Languages English Location Burunchel (Jaén) Sierra road, 32 Coordinates: 37º 56’ 48” N, 2º 57’ 06”W 136
Facilities • Restaurant, cafeteria • Lounge • Swimming pool and solarium • Car park • Wi-Fi in the communal areas • Telephone, satellite TV, music and internet connection in the rooms • Terrace-solarium in some of the rooms • Some rooms with hydro-massage facilities • Access for persons with limited mobility to communal areas and one specially modified room
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Open All year round (except between 8 January and 28 February) Prices Double room (with breakfast): 75 €/night Official endorsements Andalusia Natural Park Brand Contact details Tel.: 953 72 73 11 info@hotelelcurro.es www.hotelelcurro.es
HOTEL COTO DEL VALLE The road leading from Cazorla to the Tranco de Beas reservoir, which lies at the very heart of the Natural Park, winds through dense pinewoods, spectacular valleys and over passes such as the Puerto de Las Palomas offering visitors stunning panoramic views of the mountains. Shortly after starting the descent towards the tourist enclave of Arroyo Frío (which belongs to the charming town of Cazorla), the impressive Coto del Valle Rural Hotel hoves into view, so splendidly located and completely surrounded by nature. The hotel — an old but completely restored and enlarged building — gives spectacular views from its 39 rooms surrounding a large central patio (which is covered with an awning during the hot summer months). The hotel is rustic in style throughout, from its architecture to its décor, and includes a number of big-game trophies, legacy of the hunting that went on here for centuries. Today, Accommodation type Four-star rural hotel visitor services and activities • Organisation of social events. • Traditional cuisine. • Regional information. • The hotel organises excursions for clients through local active tourism companies (hiking, all-terrain routes, horse riding…).
however, the activities are greatly augmented in number and diversified and include modern adventure activities, hiking, parascending and wildlife observation. The estate contains a large number of communal areas, where clients can relax, shop or taste traditional
Location Cazorla (Jaén) Tranco road, km 34.3 Coordinates: 37° 55’ 7.04’’ N, 2° 56’ 0.26’’ W
Capacity • 39 rooms, sleeping 78 • 400-cover restaurant
Languages English
Facilities • Restaurant, café • Shop with outdoor clothing, tourist gifts and local products (olive oil, jams, etc.) • Large room for meetings, congresses and conferences • Social room with library and computer with internet connection
food. A special mention should go to the gardens surrounding the principal building, including a large swimming pool, which contain many native plants mixed in with the abundant vegetation that surrounds the hotel. The array of activities currently available is soon to be increased through various projects, and those clients looking to delight in the peacefulness of the establishment or relax via physical activity will soon be able to use a padel court (a kind of indoor tennis), a spa and also a wine cellar for tasting a selection of wines accompanied by traditional mountain dishes. An interesting system put into operation by the hotel managers is the use of the swimming pool’s water in the cooling system of the hotel’s ventilation, thereby increasing the pool’s water temperature and consequently increasing clients’ swimming enjoyment.
• Covered car park • Garden • Swimming pool • Rooms with balconies • Telephone, TV, room music, minibar, room with safe-deposit box • Wi-Fi internet connection in rooms • Access for clients with mobility problems in communal areas and an adapted room
Open All year round, except 7-29 December Prices According to the room, from 76.50 € 160.50 €/night Contact details Tel.: 953 12 40 67 / 620 01 80 30 info@hotelcotodelvalle.com, reservas@hotelcotodelvalle.com www.hotelcotodelvalle.com, www.cotodelvalle.com SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
137
PARADOR DE CAZORLA The Parador of El Adelantado is beautifully located in the place of Sacejo, at 1,400 m amidst a sea of mountain ridges, deep pine forests and silence — and to reach the hotel visitors must first negociate a series of remote mountain roads that penetrate deep into the heart of the Natural Park. Isolated in the midst of truly natural surroundings and far from the hustle and bustle of the cities, this parador (a state-run hotel) is an ideal place for those searching for a few days of absolute peace and quiet. The building is fairly modern and was built to resemble a typical Andalusian cortijo (farmhouse), with a white-washed exterior and carefully tended gardens, and interior décor resplendent with arches, tiled floors and wooden beams. As is the case with all paradores, the El Adelantado has been decorated with utmost care and transmits warmth throughout, right from the bedrooms through to all the communal areas. Type of accommodation Three-star rural hotel
Its cuisine is based on local produce and clients are rewarded with an extensive menu replete with traditional local dishes such as pisto (a type of Andalusian ratatouille), pipirrana (an onion, tomato and cucumber-based salad) and game, all prepared with the superb local olive oils. Given the situation of the
Languages English, French and German
visitor services and activities • Information on the region (in reception and rooms). • Contacts with active tourism companies in the region (walking, 4WD routes, horse trekking, guided walks, cycle touring, etc.). • The Parador has a nature room with information on the Natural Park. • Regional cuisine. • Sale of local produce.
• Terrace • Swimming pool • Gardens • Children’s playground • Car park • TV, telephone, safe deposit box, minibar in all rooms • Some rooms with a terrace • Good access for people with reduced mobility (only in communal areas) Open All year round, except 20 December to 10 February
Location Cazorla (Jaén) Sierra road, s/n Coordinates: 37º 54’ 19’’ N, 2º 57’ 40’’W
138
hotel, the possibilities are almost infinite for guests wanting to enjoy the great outdoors. The hotel will put clients in contact with the local active tourism companies working in the area. Those who choose less strenuous activities and opt to search out the local flora and fauna will not have far to go, as hotel and surrounding area — look out for the Red and Fallow Deer that wander uncornedly through the hotel gardens! — are havens for wildlife. As a member of the Parador group, the hotel has been awarded a number of quality certificates and puts into practice strict protocols regarding waste generation and water and energy consumption. It is also about to implement a new series of initiatives designed to improve its environmental performance and promote the Natural Park and the local economy, which include reusing water, organising gastronomic workshops, employing local products in its cookery and arranging visits to the Lammergeier captive breeding centre.
Prices Double room: 137 €/night
Capacity 34 rooms, sleeping 68 100-cover restaurant
Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14001 • ‘Q’ quality tourism label
Facilities • Restaurant • Library • TV
Contact details Tel.: 953 72 70 75 cazorla@parador.es www.parador.es
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
TIERRAVENTURA CAZORLA Ever since it was founded in 1998, Tierraventura Cazorla has worked hard to ensure its principal objective, that its clients obtain intense emotional experiences in the large and highly valuable protected area of the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura & Las Villas Natural Park. Nevertheless, its professional trajectory over the years has also allowed it to contribute towards promoting the area’s accommodation potential through the design of packages covering several days including a wide range of outdoor activities. This company, specialising in active tourism, uses a team of specialist guides and monitors to guarantee that the various activities are undertaken correctly and safely. Some of the most frequent are canyoning in the Cerrada de Utrero, kayaking on the Tranco Reservoir, horse-riding routes in the Guadalquivir valley and hiking and mountain biking on the extensive network of tracks and trails in the park, along with other attractive options such as abvisitor services and activities • Adventure. Participants learn the techniques of archery, orienteering, abseiling and rock-climbing, as well as canoeing on the calm waters of the Tranco Reservoir. Additionally, the Cerrada del Utrero, in the Guadalquivir River, is an ideal gorge for those wanting to learn canyoning.
seiling, rock-climbing, flying fox and archery, all frequently integrated into multi-adventure packages. And all of this without of course forgetting the delights of historic routes in seductive local villages such as Cazorla or the monumental towns of Úbeda and Baeza.
• Wildlife. On foot: landscape interpretation, mountain trails or birdwatching walks; on mountain bikes: descents or peaceful cycle rides along forest tracks; on horse-back: various routes through the park.
In addition to working with private groups and individuals, Tierraventura Cazorla offers various programmes for schools and institutes allowing participants to a few days of adventure and sport in natural surroundings. Their end-of-term trips lasting for three to four days offer school children the chance to choose between intense activities such as kayaking, canyoning, rock-climbing and death-slides, or more relaxing options including walking and visiting some of the park’s most emblematic sites, rounded off with a short orienteering race in the mountains. One of the company’s most attractive tourist packages for adults is their Adventure Raid, held over four days. The combination of adventure and outdoor survival amongst the spectacular landscapes of this Natural Park make this particularly interesting for groups of friends or work colleagues who want to share a few days together in natural surroundings.
developed special cultural circuits, one for students of the colleges in Castilla-La Mancha and the other for the elderly. • Company motivation courses. These are tailor-made according to participants’ preferences. In addition to organising daily activities, information on where to stay in the area is provided.
Languages English Open All year round • Environmental education. This is aimed at school children, who during their stay undertake ecological hiking, participate in environmental workshops and visit both the Torre del Vinagre Visitor Centre and its botanical garden. Summer camps are also organised within the Natural Park. • Cultural tourism. Tierraventura offer historical and sightseeing routes in the villages of the Sierra de Cazorla and their surroundings. The company has also
Official endorsements ISO 9001 (pending approval)
Material/equipment provided Technical material for active tourism activities (neoprene suits, ropes, harnesses, helmets, canoes, mountain bikes, etc.).
Contact details Carretera de la Sierra, s/n 23479 La Iruela (Jaén) Tel.: 953 71 00 73 / 639 66 05 62 / 687 95 73 55 info@aventuracazorla.com www.aventuracazorla.com
SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
139
TURISNAT Since the fusion in 2003 of eight companies who were providing different services related to wildlife interpretation, hiking, guided routes, provision of information at tourist information points and the sale of handcrafted goods and locally produced foodstuffs, TurisNat has become the leading active tourist provider promoting the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura & Las Villas Natural Park. This fusion brought together an enormous pool of experience spanning the whole gamut of wildlife tourism and thus created a team of highly qualified individuals, including professionals with degrees in biology, law, tourism and the English language, as well as guides specialised in cross-country, mountaineering, environmental education and first aid. All of these people were born and still reside in various towns in the region since one of the comvisitor services and activities • 4WD routes. The company organises a series of itineraries for observing flora, fauna and landscapes in diverse locations in the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura & Las Villas Natural Park, as well as along a special route known as The Rut (La Berrea). • Wildlife and hiking guide service. Offered to other travel agents and groups who have not organised their tour through TurisNat.
pany’s priorities is to encourage the local population to remain in the countryside. The company manages the service of guided routes within the Natural Park thanks to concession awarded by the Andalusian Ministry of the Environment, and the design of the routes, which visit areas of great ecological interest, aims to impart knowledge about the local flora, fauna, geology, ecology, art and customs. TurisNat was a finalist in the 2006 Andalusia Tourism awards programme and is an active member of the Natural Park’s Sustainable Tourism Forum, via which the “aim is to stimulate and support ecologically ethical practices allowing the undertaking of tourist activities with the highest respect to the natural environment […] so reaching sustainability in all three of its facets: economic, social and environmental”.
• Photography. Park visitors, in groups of up to seven, can take images using a series of hides with the on-site help of a monitor. • Multi-activity packages. Several different activities which a visitor may wish to undertake during their stay in the park can be combined (4WD itineraries, horseriding routes, archery, cultural visits, boating activities…). • Sports, adventure and leisure activities. In consultation with specialised monitors, groups of between 15 and 30 people can undertake various different outdoors sporting activities.
to facilitate observations and photography without having to leave the vehicles). All are equipped with an emergency radio, mobile telephone and first-aid kit • Binoculars and telescope for wildlife observation • Walking sticks for hiking • Bows, arrows and targets for archery
Languages English and French Open All year round
• Operation of tourist information points. TurisNat operates the municipal tourist office in the town hall of Cazorla, which also serves as the company’s headquarters. These information points also serve as booking centres for activities and sales shops for tourism and wildlife related items. 140
Official endorsement Andalusia Natural Park Brand
Material/equipment provided • The company maintains a fleet of 17 4WD vehicles each seating 7-8 and a 4WD bus, with a total of 150 seats (all the vehicles have roof openings
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Contact details Pº. de Santo Cristo, 19, bajo Cazorla (Jaén) Tel.: 953 72 13 51 / 686 93 83 75 info@turisnat.es www.turisnat.es
HOSPEDERÍA LAS CAÑADILLAS 2007, the hotel was once again refurbished from top to bottom. Las Cañadillas has seven double rooms, and guests also have at their disposal a swimming pool, gardens, a large drawing room with an open fire, a library, terrace and dining room where a good variety of local fare is on offer. The owners are active in local life and belong to a variety of associations, and are able to explain to guests many of the most interesting aspects of the Natural Park or provide details of local companies offering outdoor activities. To promote interest in the Natural Park, the owners have written their own material on the area’s towns and villages, fiestas, culture and crafts, and the hospedería is now in fact a Park Information Point.
Travellers who drive the peaceful back roads of the Natural Park will come across Hospedería Las Cañadillas, just a few metres from the shores of the Tranco reservoir and situated in a shady and half-hidden valley at the foot of the Sierra de Las Lagunillas. Located on a truly Mediterranean mountainside, this estate with its olive groves offers guests the chance to relax in a relaxing rural atmosphere. The owners, Antonio and Elvira, bought the estate in 1974 and set about restoring the farm building according to the dictates of traditional local architecture. The idea to open a rural tourism establishment was hatched in 1989 and, after a series of far-reaching reforms in 1995, the hospedería was able to offer meals based on home-grown oil and vegetables, for example, and local farm produce. In
Accommodation type One-star rural hotel
Capacity • 7 rooms, sleeping 14 • 30-cover restaurant Facilities • Restaurant • Drawing room with open fire • TV • Library • Garden • Terrace • Swimming pool • Safe box in all rooms
visitor services and activities • Information about the region. • Contacts with active tourism companies operating in the area (walking, guided itineraries, 4WD routes, canyoning, rafting, paragliding, etc.). • Combined accommodation and adventure activities breaks. • Traditional cookery with organic products and home-produced oil. Languages English, French and Portuguese Location Hornos de Segura (Jaén) Pantano del Tranco road Coordinates: 38º 10’ 24.8” N, 2º 47’ 48.8”W
Open All year round Prices Double room (with breakfast): 75 €/night Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 953 12 81 42 / 619 78 25 51 reservas@hospederialascanadillas.com www.hospederialascanadillas.com
SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
141
AULA DE NATURALEZA EL CANTALAR Since 1986 El Cantalar, a cooperative society, has been running this environmental education centre located in the valley of the river Guadalquivir, surrounded by some of the most spectacular landscapes in the Natural Park and near interesting sites such as the Tranco Reservoir, the Cerrada de Utrero or the River Borosa. El Cantalar organises numerous activities related to the natural world, for both children and adults, including itineraries for observing flora and fauna and interpreting the landscape, as well as workshops for adults (for example, the Autumn Classroom weekend programme) whose objective is to make an in-depth study of environmental problems so that participants can comprehend them and in the future adopt more environmentally friendly attitudes. El Cantalar uses a broad-based team of professionals (biologists, teachers, specialists in environmental science), who promote public awareness campaigns, organise games for young children and outdoor sports activities, run visitor services and activities • Multidisciplinary activities. For groups of at least 15 people. El Cantalar has a guide service available for walks and monitors for environmental workshops (natural cosmetics, production of liqueurs and jams, basket-making, etc.). • School group stays. During the school year, multi-adventure, sporting and environmental education programmes are lead by specialist monitors.
• Centre hire. El Cantalar will hire out its installations to groups (associations, companies, families, etc.). 142
workshops for producing natural products (foods, cosmetics, etc.), and act as management consultants in questions relating to the environment. The Centre offers accommodation in an old forestry station, which has been reformed to serve as a hostel for up to 60 people, with a central patio surrounded by lawns, a swimming pool and sports fields. There are a number of large dormitories, meeting rooms, a library and laboratory equipped for studying wildlife. A stay in the hostel implies and opportunity to try the rich local cuisine, which can include special menus (ecological, vegetarian or gluten-free) prepared with the local produce.
• Summer camps. Organised in July and August these include workshops, sports, games, wildlife observation, camp-fire evenings, etc. under tuition from specialised monitors. • Accommodation. It is possible to reserve accommodation without additional activities.
Facilities • Accommodation in shared rooms with maximum capacity of 60 • Dining room • Swimming pool • Sports installations • Car park • Multi-use room (for meetings, courses, conferences, etc.)
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
In 2008 the provincial delegation of the Andalusian Ministry of the Environment presented El Cantalar with an award — Bandera de Andalucía de Medio Ambiente — for its outstanding work in environmental education.
• Hall with library and laboratory equipped with binocular microscopes • Wi-Fi area
Languages English
Official endorsements Andalusia Natural Park Brand
Open All year round
Contact details Tranco road, km 39.5 23476 La Iruela (Jaén) Tel.: 953 12 41 21 / 609 64 53 09 ancantalar@gmail.com www.elcantalarcazorla.com
CENTRO AGROTURÍSTICO Y DE EDUCACIÓN AMBIENTAL HUERTA DEL CAÑAMARES Ten kilometres from La Iruela in the valley of the Cañamares, a river of crystalline waters and well-conserved vegetation, stands Huerta de Cañamares, a centre devoted to agrotourism and environmental education containing all the elements necessary for a wide variety of activities and the full enjoyment of nature. A multidisciplinary team of professionals works from here on numerous programmes for groups (both adults and children) focused mainly on environmental education. Despite the emphasis on this type of education, the centre also organises activities centred around ornithology, fungus collection, ecological agriculture, traditional production of liqueurs and jams, traditional cuisine and handcrafted goods in esparto, wicker and ceramics. In addition (and unsurprisingly considering its location in Jaén province), visitors are introduced into the world of the olive, with local visits to oil-producing estates, museums and mills. The Huerta del Cañamares Agrotourism and Envisitor services and activities • Ecotourism, environmental interpretation and birdwatching. These activities are focused on groups of adults visiting the park and are guided by specialists.
• Thematic weekends. Designed for groups of between 15 and 25 people, the options available differing according to the season (fungi collection, jam and liqueur making, handcrafts, the world of the olive, birdwatching, gastronomy, hiking, guided itineraries, horse-riding routes, relaxation techniques, alternative medicines, etc.). • Guided routes in the Natural Park and surroundings. In addition to the park’s signposted trails, Huerta del Cañamares has designed an alternative series of
vironmental Education Centre also runs an ecological vegetable garden and farm, both of which hold certificates from the Andalusian Committee for Ecological Production, where clients can participate and then savour the fruits of their labours. The Centre also contains an old, but remodelled and fully equipped, workhouse, where those staying can sleep and relax after the day’s activities. Two types of accommodation are thus on offer in the complex: a comfortable 8-bedroom rural guesthouse (all with en-suite bathrooms) with a maximum capacity for 22 people, or a rural hostel for groups of up to 60, which are housed in large rooms (with baths) with space for 8, 6, 4 or 2 people.
hiking, birdwatching, mountain-biking and horse-riding itineraries that can be enjoyed with a guide, as well as visits to sites of historic and artistic interest. • Rural tourism hostel. Capacity to receive groups (of up to 60 people). • School group stays. Visits of variable length can be organised for school groups during the school terms. Activities undertaken during these stays include educational itineraries, understanding and appreciation of the surroundings, workshops (ceramics, production of food and spices in jars) and sports.
During their stay, visitors can also take part in sports (hiking, football, volleyball, athletics and horse riding), participate in alternative medicine and aromatherapy workshops or relax while practising yoga.
Material/equipment provided • A 2-ha estate with fields for sports and other leisure activities • Living room with open fire, multi-use room (meetings, courses and games), dining room, large kitchen • Laboratory with microscopes, magnifying glasses, aquariums, terrariums, etc. • Video, DVD, music equipment, Power Point projector, etc. • Ecological vegetable garden • Swimming pool Languages English, Italian and French Open All year round Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point
• Summer camps. Camps are organised in July and August and the installations are rented out to various collectives.
Contact details Juntas Muriel, s/n 23479 La Iruela (Jaén) Tel.: 953 72 70 84 / 609 57 06 32 huertacazorla@gmail.com www.huertacanamares.com SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
143
HOTEL & HOTEL SPA SIERRA DE CAZORLA The hotel and spa complex Sierra de Cazorla stands a mere 200 m from the centre of the village of La Iruela and just 2 km from Cazorla, on a knoll that offers wonderful views of the Sierra de Cazorla, La Iruela and the spectacular castle and crag that dominate the whole scene. Many of the workings of the complex revolve around local olive oil, the economic cornerstone of the region. This oil is one of the main ingredients of the treatments provided by the spa and of the dishes prepared by the hotel’s restaurant, and oil subproducts have been used in the hotel’s fittings. The rooms of the hotel-spa are themed and guests can choose from a variety of different ambiences — African, Moroccan, Mountain or Oriental — created by a careful selection of décor and furnishings. The spa ÓleoSalud is a thematic health resort that promotes olive oil and its aesthetic and therapeutic Accommodation type • Hotel Spa Sierra de Cazorla: four-star superior hotel • Hotel Sierra de Cazorla: three-star hotel
qualities, in which clients can combine leisure and health through water — and, naturally, oil-based treatments. The spa has an active swimming pool, peeling shower, mini pool with hydromassage, steam
Languages English and French Location La Iruela (Jaén) Sierra road, s/n Coordinates: 37º 55’ 15’’ N, 3º 0’ 45’’W Capacity • Hotel Spa **** sup.: 39 rooms, sleeping 76 • Hotel ***: 59 rooms, sleeping 107 • Two restaurants, 202 covers in total
visitor services and activities • Information on the local region. • Information on local active tourism companies (walking, 4WD routes, horseriding, canoeing, etc.). • Traditional Mediterranean cuisine. • Spa (four-star hotel spa). • Local organic products on sale. • Pets are welcome (in the three-star hotel). 144
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
sauna, mixed sauna, dry sauna, contrast shower, ice spring and a floatarium. And to round it all off, some of the hotel’s pillows are stuffed with olives stones and are guaranteed free of PVC and toxic products, thereby ensuring a peaceful night’s sleep and helping to prevent muscular problems and headaches. Olive stones also act as natural ionizers and cleanse the air, which is ideal, above all, for those who suffer from asthma or allergies. The hotel has written a guide (available in reception) with five walking routes and will also provide clients with information on local active tourism companies. In the immediate future, the company hopes to promote a number of sustainable activities such as a virtual book-borrowing service and the use of public transport — there will be a discount for clients who come all the way to the hotel by public transport.
Facilities In both hotels: • TV, telephone, internet connection • Some rooms with terrace • Good access for people with reduced mobility to all communal areas and some rooms • Swimming pool • Spa
Open All year round
• Car park • Restaurant, cafeteria • Olive oil-related products and services • Salon Hotel Spa **** (aside from the above) • Pillow ‘menu’ (including pillows with olive stones) • Minibar • Some rooms with jacuzzi • Some rooms with hydromassage bath or cabin
Prices • Hotel Spa ****: between 84 and 230 €/night, according to room • Hotel ***: between 63 and 89 €/night, according to room Official endorsements • ISO 9001 • ISO 14001 • Andalusia Natural Park Brand (applied for) Contact details Tel.: 953 72 00 15 info@hotelsierradecazorla.com www.hotelsierradecazorla.com
HOTEL RURAL LOS NOGALES At the southern entrance into the Natural Park, just 6 km from Pozo Alcón, stands Los Nogales Rural Hotel, in the heart of a 4-ha estate. Immersed in a sea of olive groves, the hotel’s ample gardens extend to the edge of the gorge carved out by the river Guadalentín, the cliffs of which house a breeding colony of Griffon Vultures. The newly constructed hotel consist of two independent two-storey buildings, joined via a small lounge with large plate glass windows that open to allow access to the gardens. Upon arrival in the reception, guests will note the wide selection of local produce on sale (honey, olive oil, etc.). The variety and originality of the dishes on offer in the restaurant are surprising, and local gastronomic specialities play a predominant part. Dishes such as tosta forestal con setas (wild mushrooms on toast), prime beef in rosemary honey and Segura-style lamb a la piedra are just some of the delights waiting for visitors. Accommodation type Three-star rural hotel Visitor services and activities • Information for hotel users (maps, books and guides, etc.). • Guided visits (artistic and cultural). • Contact with active tourism companies operating in the area (hiking, 4WD and horse-riding routes, etc.). • Sales of local produce (oil, honey, etc.). • Traditional cooking. • Pets are welcome.
Languages German, English and French
The hotel has 28 rooms including several Junior Suites painstakingly decorated and equipped with all kinds of luxuries, including a large lounge with open fire, and a balcony with superb views over the Sierra del Pozo.
Location Pozo Alcón (Jaén) La Bolera road (turn off at km 6 and the hotel is 500 m ahead) Coordinates: 37° 44’ 51’’ N, 2° 54’ 37’’W Capacity 28 rooms, sleeping 56
There is a wide range of activities on offer that guests can participate in during their stay, which will help them get to know the best corners of the sierra — possibly in the company of one of the local active tourism companies. The hotel has special offers for couples (live music, special meals, open-fire, cava, etc.), and for those looking for relaxation, there is a spa with solarium, outdoor swimming pool and large gardens. As part of their commitment towards sustainability, Los Nogales uses rain and treated waste-water on their gardens, even though the great majority of the plants are native species requiring little water. Furthermore, the hotel has a firm commitment to improving its services by offering activities such as birdwatching (a hide overlooking the Guadalentín gorge is being planned), and for which the staff are being trained. Another future project is a lending library in one of the lounges, which will include information about the Natural Park, its wildlife and history.
• Satellite TV, telephone, internet connection in bedrooms • Safe deposit box, mini-bar, all rooms with balconies • Some bedrooms have hydro-massage and open fire • One bedroom and the communal areas are adapted for people with limited mobility Open All year round Prices Double room (with breakfast): from 74 to 132 €/night (depending on season and room type)
Facilities • Private room for meetings and celebrations • Restaurant, cafeteria • Lounge with open fire • Wi-Fi • Terrace • Solarium • Spa • Car park
Official endorsements Andalusia Natural Park Brand Contact details Tel.: 953 71 82 49 / 666 45 94 94 hotelrurallosnogales@mundivia.es www.hotelrurallosnogales.com
SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
145
ALOJAMIENTOS RURALES HACIENDA SIERRA DEL POZO Ten years have passed since the owners of these rural apartments decided to escape from the hectic life of Barcelona and return to a more relaxed style of life in the mountain landscapes where they were born. And from the first moment, Manuel and Anna saw clearly that rural tourism was the best option in a rural environment for combining work with the enjoyment of nature. They bought a hectare of land in Pozo Alcón, to the south of the Sierra de Cazorla, and threw themselves into the creation of Hacienda Sierra del Pozo. This rural complex on the slopes of the sierra from which it receives its name contains four new apartments emulating typical Andalusian architecture and is completely immersed in the natural environment. The apartments, each named after one of their parents’ nicknames (Filigrana, Pegota, Picacho and Pinea), are all fully equipped for a comfortable stay. Hacienda Sierra del Pozo also has a large garden, with
abundant native plants, plus a swimming pool for hot days, barbeque, petanca court (a ball game), children’s play area, sports area, mini-golf and a pen with domestic birds. For additional relaxation, clients can also use the mini-spa, jacuzzi and massage service. To further enhance the visitor’s stay the owners have both written information and developed routes based on different activities. Contacts with other local companies also expand this range of options, and for fishermen a package in combination with the nearby Peralta intensive-fishing reserve is available. To reduce its impact on the environment, a biomass burner has been installed to provide all the heating and hot water. Additionally, numerous systems for water saving have also been incorporated, both in the gardens and indoors. A further aim is to substitute the current cleaning materials for more environmentally friendly ecological products, as well to provide a pick-up service for those wishing to arrive in
Accommodation type Rural apartments (two keys)
• Children’s play area • Social room for large group meetings • Large equipped kitchen • Wi-Fi internet connection • TV, DVD • Open fire • Access for those with mobility problems
visitor services and activities • Information for clients (routes designed by the owner, maps, library, etc.). • Contact with local active tourism companies operating in the area (hiking, 4WD routes, multi-adventure, horse riding, wildlife photography, etc.). • Sale of local goods. • Spa service. Languages Catalan
Open All year round
Location Pozo Alcón (Jaén) La Bolera road, km 4.5 Coordinates: 37° 44’ 06’’ N, 2° 55’ 14’’W Capacity 4 houses/apartments, sleeping 34 (with options for supplementary beds) Facilities • Gardens • Swimming pool • Mini-spa (jacuzzi and sauna) • Sports pitch • Mini-golf • Petanca court • Domestic-bird pen • Barbeques
146
Pozo Alcón by public transport. Plans are also in place to install a Park Information Point and sell local produce.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Prices Depending on capacity, from 150 € 240 €/apartment/night
Official endorsements • ISO 14001 • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Natural Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 953 71 84 28 / 696 00 49 81 / 625 56 44 99 información@haciendasierradelpozo.com www.haciendasierradelpozo.com
AVENTURA SPORT Set up in 2004 and with offices in the town of Quesada, the advent of Aventura Sport was a response to the growing demand for adventure activities in the Natural Park. Aventura Sport defines itself as a service company whose main aim is to promote sports activities in the open air as a way of giving clients the chance to practice their favourite sports in the peerless surroundings of the mountains of the Natural Park. Aventura Sport also offers other types of activities such as environmental education and animated activities. Aventura Sport works with a very diverse public and a lack of fitness and/or experience is no obstacle when it comes to enjoying the company’s activities, which are all adaptable to the needs and expectations of every client. The company is committed to caring for the environment in which it carries out its activities and col-
laborates actively in the protection and promotion of the values of the region’s natural heritage. Aventura Sport is able to guarantee the correct running and safety of the activities it organises thanks to the pro-
fessionalism of its well-qualified staff, graduates in physical education, sports monitors and mountain guides with years of experience in the organisation of this type of activities.
visitor services and activities • Environmental education. Guided walks and interpretation workshops, birdwatching, activities for school groups, wildlife observation and summer camps. • Active tourism. Canyoning, canoeing, climbing, flying fox, walking, water sports, orienteering, mountain-bike and horseriding routes and archery. These activities are designed both for private clients and for groups, schools and summer camps.
• Cultural and animated activities. Themed excursions, magic shows, theatre, exhibitions, story-telling and workshops. • Training. Courses for young people, adults, technical staff and company managers. • Activities for companies. Team-building events and outdoor training.
Languages English
Material/equipment provided • Workbooks for school children • Approved equipment for all activities • Binoculars • Material for workshops
Contact details Carretera de Huesa, 4 23480 Quesada (Jaén) Tel.: 953 71 42 18 / 620 35 00 65 info@aventurasport.es www.aventurasport.com
Open All year round (expect for canyoning, only March-November) Official endorsements Andalusia Natural Park Brand
SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
147
FUNDACIÓN PATRIMONIO SIERRA DE SEGURA The Foundation has drawn up a tourism development plan called ‘Sierra de Segura, El V Elemento’, one of most ambitious projects ever to be carried out in the Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park in the field of the restoration, conservation and evaluation of local heritage as a tourist and cultural resource. This plan is based on a communication strategy, in which all the natural and cultural patrimonial elements of these mountains are articulated around the four classical Greek elements of earth, water, air and fire. ‘Earth’ is a reference to the main natural and cultural activities that take place in the Sierra de Segura. Its geodiversity provides good examples of all the main geological units present in Andalusia, including river terraces that contain the oldest Palaeolithic remains in the province of Jaén and numerous caves with rock-art that have been declared a World Heritage Site. The Archaeological and Palaeontological Museum in Torres de Albánchez and the Cave-Art Centre in SantiagoPontones are a must for visitors wishing to know more about these exceptional finds. The remains of a numvisitor services and activities • Running of information and interpretation centres. Tourist, environmental and cultural information about the Sierra de Segura and the Natural Park. • Guided visits. To museums, interpretation centres and other installations run by the Foundation, as well as to nearby villages and sites.
ber of Roman villas have been preserved and are on display in the Roman Culture Centre in Arroyo del Ojanco. During the medieval period the Sierra de Segura lay foursquare on the frontier between Christian and Moorish cultures and many fortresses were built, some of whose remains have been restored and currently house interpretation centres (‘Frontier Territory’ in the castle of Segura in Segura de la Sierra and ‘Defending the Frontier’ in Villarrodrigo). The Museum of the Old Town of Villa de Beas, the Sixteenth Century and Mysticism, an interpretation centre with a permanent exhibition devoted to St Teresa of Jesus and St Juan de la Cruz, will also be interest to visitors. ‘Water’ is present in the open-air Museum of Water in Puente de Génave, whilst in Orcera a thematic exhibition is devoted to the importance of the area as a supplier of timber for ship-building. ‘Air’is interpreted in the Museum of Air in El Robledo (Segura de la Sierra), and the night sky and its constellations of stars can be admired at the Planetarium and Astronomical Centre in the castle of Hornos de Segura.
geodiversity, biodiversity and ecodiversity. • Cultural and animated activities. Exhibitions, seminars, fairs, concerts, talks, workshops, etc.
‘Fire’, the fourth element, has been the central element of local culture for centuries and various local interpretation centres explain to visitors some of the more interesting aspects of local traditions. For example, the region boasts an ecological olive-grove interpretation space in the Extra Virgin Olive Oil Cooperative in Génave, and El Sequero de Siles, a former drying house for pine nuts that has been converted into a visitor centre with exhibitions detailing some of the oldest and most typical occupations of the people of these mountains. The fifth element, Aristotle’s‘Ether’is symbolically represented by the Sierra de Segura itself, which articulates the other four elements as part of local natural and cultural heritage.
Material/equipment provided • Brochures and guides to the centres run by the Foundation • Promotional material for the Sierra de Segura and the Natural Park (maps, tourist facilities, itineraries, etc.) Languages English
Open All year round Official endorsements Park Information Point
• Environmental education. Itineraries, activities and workshops for groups on 148
• Training and development. Investigation, conservation, restoration, evaluation and popularisation of the heritage of the Sierra de Segura through courses, debates, seminars, congresses, seminars and publications.
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Contact details Fundación Patrimonio Sierra de Segura C/ San Vicente, 14 23374 Segura de la Sierra (Jaén) Tel.: 953 48 04 21 turismo@sierradesegura.org www.patrimoniosierradesegura.com www.sierradesegura.org www.cazorlaseguraylasvillas.com
CASA RURAL CORTIJO LA AJEDREA In the far north of the Sierra de Segura, and close to the province of Albacete and the high peaks of the Calar del Mundo and Alcaraz mountains, the Guadalimar River valley opens up beside the town of Siles. In a pleasant and tranquil landscape known as the Vega de Castrobayona some 5 km from the town, La Ajedrea farm awaits those visitors exploring the northern part of the Natural Park. Lying in a 25,000 m2 olive producing estate and surrounded by pinewoods and mountains, the current guesthouse was built by incorporating the remains of the estate’s old farmhouse (the Cava farmhouse), the walls of which are perfectly integrated into and visible in the new construction. Local materials and building techniques were used for the reconstruction, such as the stone, wood, Arabic tiles and cane hurdles, so that La Ajedrea conserves the true flavour of the former buildings. The rooms — organised into six apartments — all have balconies with magnificent views, a wood-
Accommodation type Superior category self-catering accommodation
burning stove to warm the winter evenings and a small kitchen. The decoration is principally rustic in style, with wooden furniture and exposed beams. Communal areas, including a lounge/dining room, complete the offer. Outside are ample gardens, a terrace with a pond and fountain, and a swimming pool with solarium, offering the perfect opportunity to relax and come into contact with the natural surroundings. The olive orchard is managed ecologically, reflecting the owners’high degree of awareness for the environment, and which is also seen in the various measures in place to minimise water and energy use and ranging from a biological waste-water treatment plant, to the use of a biomass burner. Future aims include improving the quality of the information available for its clients, the production of compost from the estate’s organic waste and providing clients with gifts of locally produced goods.
Capacity 6 rooms, sleeping 12-24
Prices • Double room: 50 €/night • Whole house: 300 €/night
visitor services and activities • Information and advice about the Natural Park. • Contact with local active tourism companies for organising outdoor activities (tourist routes, hiking, multi-adventure). • Sale of ecological goods. • Pets are welcome.
Location Siles (Jaén) Vega de Castrobayona, s/n Coordinates: 38º 23’ 54.91” N, 2º 32’ 4.80” W
Opening All year round
Official endorsements Park Information Point Contact Tel.: 953 12 62 16 / 691 99 88 78 casarural@cortijolaajedrea.com www.cortijolaajedrea.com
Facilities • Garden • Swimming pool • Car park • All rooms with balcony, wood-burning stove, TV, DVD, small kitchen • Communal dining room and kitchen in an adjacent building (only available if block-booking the whole house) • One room and the communal areas are adapted for people with reduced mobility SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
149
CÁMPING RÍO LOS MOLINOS The Río Los Molinos campsite, located in the northern sector of the natural park, about 1 km from Siles, offers several different types of accommodation to satisfy those who enjoy the countryside. In addition to the 88 camping plots scattered about this extensive grassland, there are 10 cabins and a self-contained house with six double rooms. These facilities are served by a restaurant, bar and cafeteria, a lounge equipped with a television and games, a washroom and toilet block, with washing-up facilities, a supermarket, various sports facilities and a swimming pool. Two types of cabins are available: some are equipped with two bedrooms, kitchen, lounge, full bathroom, central heating and a terrace, while others have just one bedroom containing bunks for four people, full bathroom and central heating. The self-contained house is a recently renovated building comprising a lounge with open fire, fully equipped kitchen and garden, and all the rooms have an en-suite bathroom. Accommodation type • Simple campsite and basic cabins • Simple self-contained guesthouse
Right from the outset, back in 1991, the complex has played an active role in the way of life of both the region and its protected area, and has been awarded the Andalusia Natural Park Brand for its efforts. Río Los
Molinos organises residential camps offering environmental workshops (planting native trees, recycling used oils, etc.) and courses dedicated to the study of fungi (mycology).
Location Siles (Jaén) Las Acebeas road, km 1.5 Coordinates: 38º 37’ 7.68’’ N, 2º 58’ 10.9’’ W Capacity • Campsite: 88 plots • Cabins: 10 bungalows, sleeping 60 • Independent house: 6 rooms, sleeping 12 • 60-cover restaurant
• House: TV, fully equipped kitchen, open fire, garden • Cabins: TV, fully equipped kitchen, bathroom, terrace • Access for people with limited mobility, except to the bungalows. The house has two specially adapted rooms. visitor services and activities • Information about the park. • Contact with companies offering activity tourism in the area (sight-seeing trips, walking, multi-adventure activities). • Organisation of environmental workshops. • Sale of organic produce (olive oil). Languages English 150
Facilities • Restaurant, cafeteria, bar • Garden • Swimming pool • Sports facilities • Bathroom/WC complex with washing-up area on the campsite
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Open All year round Prices • With a tent: 3.6 €/person/day • With a caravan: 6 €/person/day • Whole house: 18 €/person/day • Double room in the house: 50 €/day • Per cabin, sleeping 6: 68 €/day Official endorsements • Andalusia Natural Park Brand • Park Information Point Contact details Tel.: 953 49 10 03 / 626 76 36 63 info@riomolinos.com www.riomolinos.com
HOTEL RURAL ZAHARA DE LOS OLIVOS Surrounded by montane olive orchards and extensive pine woods, Torres de Albánchez is a small village in the Sierra de Segura of barely 1,000 inhabitants. On the village’s outskirts lies the Rural Hotel Zahara de Los Olivos, with its distinct personality and familiar air, which has its origins in an idea brought to fruition by its founders (Amalio and Celia) back in the 1980s. The hotel is now housed in the building which was constructed then, and according to the current managers (who are the founders’ children) its 16 rooms — named after plant species typical of the surrounding hills — instil a certain chill factor in its clients, ideal for relaxation. The outside of the establishment is just as important, with various thematic balconies each with carefully controlled atmosphere, excellent views of the mountains and countryside around Torres de Albánchez, and also a garden where guests can relax in the shade of the fig trees.
Accommodation type Two-star rural hotel
The hotel also has an open-air cocktail bar and a buffet-style restaurant — where carefully selected music enhances the dining experience — with a wide but select range of dishes, which incorporates not only the traditional regional foods but also international cuisine, plus a selection of surprising homemade desserts. Among the many services offered by the hotel figure the elaboration of informative material regarding the park and the production of personalised maps for clients, as well as organising courses about the Iberian fauna. In addition, they also provide information about other local companies with outdoor activities, hand-crafted goods and other typical goods of the area. The hotel is also planning to obtain the endorsement of Park Information Point and get more involved in activities related to local development and nature conservation.
Location Torres de Albánchez (Jaén) Avda. de Andalucía, 175 Coordinates: 38º 25’ 00’’ N, 2º 40’ 59’’W Capacity • 16 rooms, sleeping 32 • 90-cover restaurant
visitor services and activities • Provides information about the park (routes, maps, etc.). • The hotel can contact local active tourism companies who operate in the area (hiking, horse-riding routes, 4WD tours, rafting, rowing, canoeing, caving, wildlife observation, archery, etc.). • Traditional cooking. • Runs courses about the Iberian fauna. • Pets are welcome.
Facilities • Restaurant, cafeteria • Lounge • Swimming pool • Garden • Balconies • Wi-Fi in the communal areas and bedrooms • TV in the communal areas and bedrooms
• One bedroom and the communal areas are adapted for people with reduced mobility Open Closed from January to March. Open from Easter to Christmas.
Official endorsements Andalusia Natural Park Brand (pending acceptance) Prices Double room (with breakfast): 69 €/night
Contact details Tel.: 953 49 43 54 / 650 11 84 25 info@hotelzaharadelosolivos.com www.hotelzaharadelosolivos.com
Languages English and French SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
151
CASAS RURALES LA FRESNEDILLA The two independent houses at La Fresnedilla lie in the Sierra de Las Villas, in a spectacular natural setting reached along a peaceful mountain road from the village of Mogón, which itself is worth the effort. On the way, motorists will pass through a succession of surprising landscapes and also be able to stop at picnic spots or places such as the Aguascebas reservoir, the spring of Los Cerezos or El Charco del Aceite. La Fresnedilla consists of two independent houses, La Casa del Guarda and La Casa del Ingeniero. Both houses once belonged to Icona and were used — as their names indicate — by the forest wardens (guardas) and engineers (ingenieros) when the only way of getting around these mountains was on horseback. Eventually, the Land Rover arrived and then, finally, those who worked in the sierras no longer needed to live there at all. Once the original purpose of these simple but solid buildings had disappeared, the idea of putting them to a different use arose. Thus, was born La Fresnedilla, a project consisting of two independent rural houses, well built Accommodation type Simple self-catering rural houses
and carefully decorated and today each with its own swimming pool. Undoubtedly, one of the great attractions of these particular houses is the setting, in the middle of the countryside in the Natural Park and far from the madding crowds. Both houses are surrounded
by lush vegetation and visitors’only neighbours will be the local Red Squirrels, deer and the abundant birdlife whose songs and calls will enliven any stay. La Fresnedilla is an ideal site for those looking a bit of peace and quiet and wanting to enjoy tranquil walks in the countryside, although if clients so wish the owners will get in touch with local companies who organise adventure activities or wildlife excursions. The owners are also organising various projects in the Natural Park aimed at restoring ruined houses and running them with the same philosophy as used in La Fresnedilla. Currently, the owners are designing self-guided discovery routes (vegetation, fauna, geology, culture, etc.) to be used by guests in the vicinity of the houses, which will complement the local map and guide Mapa y guía excursionista de la Sierra de las Cuatro Villas that the owners also worked on. Guests are given a present of oil or wine when they arrive as a way of promoting local produce and producers.
Location Villacarrillo (Jaén) Aguascebas road, km 22.5 Coordinates: 38º 03’32.46’’N, 2º 56’39.40’’W Capacity Casa del Guarda: 3 rooms, sleeping 6 Casa del Ingeniero: 4 rooms, sleeping 8
• One of the houses has good access for people with limited mobility • Restaurant nearby
visitor services and activities • Information for house guests (maps, books, etc.). • Contact with local active tourism companies (walking, mountain bike, 4WD and horse-trekking routes, birdwatching, guided visits, rafting, paratrike, fishing, etc.). • Pets are welcome. Languages English, French, German and Dutch 152
Open All year round
Facilities • Private swimming pool • Barbeque • Garden • Satellite TV, music centre • Open fire • Equipped kitchen
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
Prices • Casa del Guarda: 120 €/night • Casa del Ingeniero: 170 €/ night Contact details Tel.: 626 49 66 80 / 618 73 94 62 / 686 39 25 29 info@cazorlaylasvillas.com www.cazorlaylasvillas.com
HOTEL SIERRA DE LAS VILLAS Las Villas is one of the three comarcas (county-like regions) that are part of the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park, and is proud to include the municipality of Villacarrillo, which, along with Martos and Mancha Real, is one of the largest produces of olive oil in the whole of the province of Jaén. Villacarrillo, traversed by the nascent river Guadalquivir, is home to the Hotel Sierra de LasVillas, founded in 1970 and completely refurbished in 2005 so as to provide visitors with all the comforts and services they might require. The hotel’s 38 rooms are fully equipped and guests are welcomed to the region with a gift consisting of a sample of extra virgin olive oil, the local product par excellence. The hotel is famous for its cuisine, and traditional local dishes are the most popular. Guests should make sure to try the partridge pâté, the escalope à Las Villas, the cod pipirrana (onion, tomato and cucumber-based salad), the andrajos de conejo (a type of rabbit stew), roast lamb and desserts such as gachas dulces (sugared unleavened bread). Accommodation type Two-star hotel visitor services and activities • Information for guests (maps, books, etc.). • Traditional local cuisine. • Contact with local active tourism companies (horse riding, walking, guided visits, etc.).
Besides the typical facilities, the hotel has also just inaugurated a function suite — La Olivina — with capacity for 500 people and superbly equipped to provide first-class service for any type of ceremony or meeting. The hotel is pledged to operating sustainably, as is shown by its commitment to renewable energy
Location Villacarrillo (Jaén) Córdoba to Valencia road, 30 Coordinates: 38º 7’ 12.46’’ N, 3º 4’ 42.13’’W
Capacity • 38 rooms, sleeping 70 • 200-cover restaurant
Language English
sources that help with the demand for heating and hot water, and to energy-saving practices. Moreover, the hotel has come to arrangements with various colleges to allow young people on work experience to work in the hotel, thereby fomenting the employment of local people in the hotel and restaurant industry.
Facilities • Restaurant, cafeteria • Wi-Fi • TV, telephone and internet connection in rooms • Some rooms have hydro-massage cabins • Function room for events
Open All year round Prices Double room: 50 €/night Contact details Tel.: 953 44 01 25 hotel.lasvillas@gmail.com www.hotelsierralasvillas.com SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
153
GUADALKAYAK, DEPORTE Y AVENTURA Water is one of the main features of the rugged landscape of the Sierras de Cazorla, Segura y Las Villas Natural Park, a mountainous protected area that harbours the source of the river Guadalquivir. Guadalkayak was created in 1999 to promote adventure sports in the Natural Park and, in particular, activities such as canoeing, rafting and canyoning that are inextricably linked with water. Whatever your level of experience, the company currently offers visitors a range of activities in the mountains of the Natural Park, all of which are led by qualified monitors. Visitors can thus choose between canoeing for beginners in an open canoe along the upper reaches of the Guadalquivir, canyoning (a mixture of climbing and water sports) in La Cerrada de Utrero or El Arroyo Membrillo, or white-water descents in pneumatic dinghies (rafting). The company also organises activities such as walking, climbing and archery for schools and other educational centres.
In all cases Guadalkayak provides all the necessary equipment and, if need be, transport to and from the starting point of the activity (rafting and open canoe-
visitor services and activities • Aquatic adventure activities. Open canoeing, canyoning and rafting, all led by qualified staff. Material/equipment provided • Material for water sports (life-jackets, wetsuits, helmets, etc.) • Climbing equipment (ropes, harnesses, carabiners, etc.) • Changing rooms (with toilets and showers) • Bar-restaurant • Car park
154
ECOTOURISM IN SPAIN. GUIDE TO SUSTAINABLE DESTINATIONS
ing). In 2006 the company opened new headquarters that contain their offices, changing rooms with toilets and showers for clients and a large car park. Languages English Open Canyoning — March to October; rafting and open canoeing — May to September; school activities — March to June. Contact details Tranco road, km 8 23330 Villanueva del Arzobispo (Jaén) Tel.: 616 96 62 01 guadalkayak@guadalkayak.com www.guadalkayak.com
HOTEL LA MORALEDA The complex formed by Las Delicias and the Hotel La Moraleda, in Villanueva del Arzobispo, consists of two businesses that have been united by family links since their they were set up, some thirty years. Initially, this establishment had just a swimming pool and bar, but over the years it has grown through the addition of multi-purpose function rooms, a small hotel with cafeteria and an additional small conference room. New rooms were added in 2005 and, by expanding the services offered to visitors, La Moraleda attained the category of two-star hotel. The hotel is located in the heart of the town and has a large swimming pool, 32 double rooms, and a bar-cafete-
ria and restaurant offering a wide range of dishes based on regional cooking and char-grilled meats. Many other types of celebrations, including weddings, baptisms, first communions, etc., can also be catered for. The company also has a rural guesthouse with capacity for 18 people located very close to the village of Cortijos Nuevos, in the Sierra de Segura. For those clients interested in hiking and visiting the beautiful region of Las Villas, the hotel organises walks in the park and can also put clients in touch with active tourism companies who operate in the area.
Accommodation type Two-star hotel
Languages English
visitor services and activities • Contact with local active tourism companies operating in the area (hiking, guided excursions, etc.). • Information is provided about the park and different possible routes for clients. • Regional cooking. • Sale of local produce (olive oil). • All types of celebrations can be catered for. • Intensive swimming courses with specialised monitors. • Pets are admitted.
Location Villanueva del Arzobispo (Jaén) C/ Fuensanta, 73 Coordinates: 38º 09’ 55” N, 3º 00’ 17”W
Facilities • Restaurant, cafeteria, bar • TV • Wi-Fi area • Conference room • Terrace with barbeque • TV, telephone in bedrooms
Open All year round
Capacity • 32 rooms (some for individual use), sleeping 64 • 500-cover restaurant • Rural guesthouse with 9 double rooms, sleeping 18
• Swimming pool with toboggans and trampolines • Some rooms have hydro-massage towers • One room and the communal areas are adapted for people with reduced mobility • Children’s playground
Prices Double room: 50 €/night Contact details Tel.: 953 45 03 88 / 627 40 93 65 hotelmoraleda@hotmail.com www.hotel-lamoraleda.com
SIERRAS DE CAZORLA, SEGURA Y LAS VILLAS NATURAL PARK
155