The charm of the patina

Walk among the colonnades… Admire the ornate facades… Study a fresco or view a portrait. If these walls could talk, what a story they could tell! The historical architecture here not only holds treasures, it is itself a treasure – and one which we are very intent upon preserving and protecting!

You may wish to enjoy your stay while residing in a palatial castle where you are guaranteed first-class service, can attend magnificent festivals, and not give a thought to tomorrow: In times past, this was a pleasure reserved only for noblemen and the landed gentry – or so we assume. This might explain the magnetic attraction that historical residences, fortresses, and castles still have for us today. But it's now easier than ever to experience this world of yesteryear. The vicinity of Eppan is home to more estates and historic mansions than any other area of Europe. Would you like to attend a culinary event for gourmets in the Zinnenberg Estate? Or would you prefer visiting a cultural exhibition at the Lanserhaus? Maybe a festival at the Schlössl on the shores of Monticolo Lake is more your style! Wherever your interests lie, you'll find no scarcity of opportunities here. Hiking enthusiasts might want to try the famed "Drei-Burgen-Eck" (including the Hocheppan Castle, the Boymont Fortress, and Korb Castle), where they'll find plenty of interest to discover. There, historical buildings may open their doors even at night to bed down tired visitors. And you can choose from accommodations ranging from luxurious suites to bed & breakfasts. There's an option for every budget – for example, in the castles at Freudenstein, Korb, Warth, or Englar. An expert explains how this situation arose and helps you understand some of the historical background.

Eppan is the area of Europe with the highest density of historical buildings: Why is there such a high density of estates, castles, and chapels here?

Baron Carl-Philipp von Hohenbühel, President of the South Tyrolean Castle Institute: This is undoubtedly due to the Mediterranean climate, the pleasant landscape, and also to certain historical fashions. Beginning in the late 16th century / early 17th century,

History that you can immerse yourself in: Many historical estates in Eppan are privately owned. Some – like here the Warth Castle – are open to the public.

A LIFE CONSISTING OF 1000 STEPS AND 1000 LITTLE CHORES.

Baron Carl-Philipp von Hohenbühel, President of the South Tyrolean Castle Institute the Upper Etsch – and thus also Eppan, too – underwent a building boom that had started earlier elsewhere. Old farming families and townsfolk who had risen socially through a successful career in the service of the provincial lords felt the need to demonstrate their higher status by ordering the construction of ostentatious residences. To do this, they fetched builders from Lombardy – e.g., Silvestro del Gallo and his kin. The craftsmen proved themselves to be skilled workers and artisans, and the completion of a particularly stunning building frequently contributed to the elevation of a family into the nobility. In turn, other families felt compelled to do likewise. A sort of chain reaction set in.

Is it possible, in view of the great number of items of medieval architecture we can survey, to recognize something like a basic architectural design?

There is a high density of manors of a similar appearance. Generally, the ground floor was reserved for commercial activities. One could then ascend a grand open staircase to the second story. The second story was characterized by a central hall having a north-south orientation, with bi- or trifora (twin or triple-arched windows) and an arrangement of rooms on the left and right side. Then there was a section for contemplative repose, a courtyard, frequently a recessed balcony, or a pleasant garden – and perhaps even a chapel (often integrated, often free-standing).

And let's not forget the many ornamental components …

There are Renaissance components made of sandstone, door and window frames, small columns and capitals and cones. To underscore the stately appearance, various martial elements were included: Circular walls, battlements

and embrasures as well as the typical "bull's eyes" (i.e., round windows) in the sub-roof. Further components included moats, bridges, and turrets. This architectural style has come to be known as "Romanesque."

In any case, the construction of these stately mansions couldn't have been cheap …

The owners were certainly well-heeled. But it is noticeable that such manors in Austria or Germany were usually surrounded by much more land. Here in this area, at most one or two families would have been able to live in an appropriate style from the yield of such small parcels of land.

You yourself are a baron, and you grew up on an estate: What is it like, living in such an historical setting?

It is very nice, but also very time-consuming. One's daily life consists of a thousand steps and a thousand little chores. One tries to do as much as one can alone – e.g., replacing some broken masonry. It is no mean task, keeping everything in good repair. And these buildings don't comply with modern energy guidelines. The heating, alone, is quite a burden.

What do you personally find so appealing about historical buildings like this?

I have a great deal of reverence for the beauty, the architecture, and the history. A house like this is not a prefab built for just a single generation. Rather, the structure has a history spanning many generations. This provides one with a sense of belonging to and being rooted in a long tradition.

Such roots can extend back a long way: What actually remains, physically, from the Middle Ages?

Many houses have continued to evolve. But they still have the late-medieval residential tower. Towers like that were not especially comfortable, so there were a lot of add-ons. But the "heart" of many such houses can be traced back to the 14th or even the 13th century.

Why do we have this fascination for ancient times?

People today have very future-oriented lives. But to shape the future, one needs a connection to the past. This connection might be made up in part by a few graffiti on an old wall, a painting, or a simple object. One finds such things here with 500 years of history behind them. Inter-generational structures like this can have a truly profound influence on one's thinking and feeling.

Why are manorial houses so popular, e.g., for special festivities and celebrations?

Everyone likes to go to the theater, to the cinema, or simply wants a change of scenery. When there's

A special place for a special occasion: Castles and estates are popular venues for celebrations and events (shown: above, the Little Castle on Lake Monticolo; below, the Zinnenberg Estate).

YOU CAN ENJOY THESE HISTORICAL SITES WITH ALL YOUR SENSES. IT SMELLS DIFFERENT. IT SOUNDS DIFFERENT.

The Boymont Fortress is certainly worth a visit. something to celebrate – for example, a wedding – one wants to have a certain measure of supporting choreography. One can experience old walls like these with all of our senses. They have their own smell. Sound is transmitted differently. It's all about feeling comfortable and relaxing.

… and one can relax better in a castle?

(laughs) If it were only a matter of filling my belly, I could do that at a hot dog stand. But if I want to spend some time in an extraordinary place, then I need a venue with associations that I'll think back to for long into the future. Feeling comfortable in an historical environment has a real impact.

So ancient buildings like this are predestined for use in the tourism sector? Well, you can either try to cover your running costs with fruit orchards and vineyards, or you can open it up for tourists. We have a lot of accommodations and facilities here, after all. They range from bed & breakfast inns, to rental rooms, to hotels and restaurants. Eppan has a wide selection to choose from.

So it's necessary to put old structures to a good use in order to pay for their upkeep?

If you own a stately manor like this, you have to ask yourself: Can I afford this? How can I pay the taxes, pay for the maintenance, and make new investments? The annual upkeep costs about as much as a middle-class car, or more. And try as you might: There's a certain patina that you'll never get rid of.

Are modifications to and renovations of historical buildings difficult?

The legal requirements pertaining to the preservation of buildings of special historical significance can be formidable. Frequently, it's a question of money. You can't use off-the-shelf components. One has to use a special lime, a special paint, etc. Such specialty materials are expensive.

And various different government agencies have a say in the matter …

True. If you want to sell your property, the province (of Bozen) has the right of first rejection. If you want to make alterations, you have to report everything, commission an architect, and comply with stringent guidelines. Basically speaking, that's a good thing – since it's easy to make a mistake and damage the building. If I don't take extreme care to preserve a beautiful fresco, it could be damaged forever. But there are various different agencies in charge of preserving historical buildings: The provincial government, the monuments protection agency, and social norms.

This positive attitude towards historical buildings wasn't always present …

No. The 1950s, 60s, and 70s were not the best of times. Today, we have different standards of beauty. Picture postcards of Eppan don't highlight the commercial zone or the "Spaghettata" (= freeway exit of South Bozen). Instead, they focus on stately residences, historical mansions, castles, fortresses, chapels – intact landscapes with historical buildings from which we derive our identity.

In the context of events like Castelmusika, the owners of historical estates in Eppan open their doors and allow visitors to view otherwise inaccessible areas. Is that a good idea?

Certainly. Otherwise, you have the case of a count sitting in his mansion all alone and letting no one in. Visitors all understand how lucky they are to be welcomed in for a tour. But the owners also benefit from this arrangement. That's because the visitors who come and admire the architecture and landscape become advocates for it. They develop an understanding and appreciation for it and support its preservation. It's a "win-win" situation!

Eppan's premier wine and gourmet dining venue in the heart of St. Pauls

To come to the Vis à Vis means to experience tradition, hospitality, and professionality at its fi nest! Th e Vis à Vis, in the heart of the idyllic wine village of St. Pauls, is a premier wine and gourmet dining venue. Gourmets and wine connoisseurs can relax and shop in a cozy atmosphere. Amid charming traditional surroundings, you'll fi nd typical South Tyrolean specialties and Italian delicacies, regional and international wines, fi ne distilled spirits, and artisanal beers. Come and explore our wide range of specialty products – you're welcome to a taste! Th e ingredients are as authentic as the atmosphere! To ensure that the practices and methods of our suppliers are in agreement with our business philosophy, we track every product back to its origin. You are thus guaranteed that every item you fi nd on our shelves is verifi ed as authentic. Th ese

The proprietors, Martin and Stefanie Schwarzer. exquisite sausage and cheese specialties, fi ne delicacies like salami made from game meats and bacon, high-quality olive oils and balsamico vinegars, artisanal pasta, diff erent bread spreads, aromatic coff ee blends, and fi ne chocolates are produced chiefl y by small family-operated businesses. All of our products have one thing in common: "We want to understand how our food products are made and then supply them to our customers in the most professional way possible."

We invite you to acquaint yourself with our line of products. We would be delighted to design exclusive gift arrangements and gift coupons for every occasion. We not only off er you a unique shopping experience, but – if needed – can also provide for the quick and convenient shipping of your order.

Th e highlight of our tasting off er: Every Th ursday at 4:00 p.m. we can organize (by appointment) a wine and culinary tasting event for you. And we would be happy to arrange for a special event tasting according to your individual wishes. We are looking forward to serving you!

Vis à Vis Enothek Wein- und Genusshaus Paulser Platz 16, St. Pauls | Eppan Phone: +39 0471 665 927 www.visavis-enothek.com

Business hours: Monday-Friday: 8:30 a.m.–1 p.m. | 3-7 p.m. Saturday: 8:30 a.m.–1 p.m.