Ubud Life 18th Edition

UbudLife NO. 18 • MARCH - MAY 2014

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

BALI SPIRIT FESTIVAL 2014 NYEPI-BALI’S DAY OF SILENCE BALI’S LAKE DISTRICT WAYAN SILA TERRACE ABING RESORT BEHIND BALINESE DOORS CHILLING IN CANDIDASA

free

Ibu Rai, as she was well known to many travelers in the 60’s, was born 1925.

She sold food and her “Warung” became quite famous, even travel books recommended it as place to find safe and good quality food for foreigners. Her son, Dewa Gede, opened a restaurant in 1986 at family land and as a tribute to his mother courage and enterprise, called it Ibu Rai Restaurant. He carries on his mother’s. Our restaurant is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavors using the best and freshest ingredients. All are carefully presented and with friendly service. “Hope you enjoy our food with taste of Asian Spices”.

72 Monkey Forest Street Ubud Bali | +62 361 973472 restaurant@iburai.com | www.iburai.com

NYEPI

Bali’s Day of Silence Bali is such a special place and there are many reasons why.

Nyepi, or The Day of Silence, which falls on March 31th this year, is one of them. On this magical day, no planes fly, no transport operates, no people will be seen on the streets or beaches, except in the south, the pecalang or banjar guards, who patrol the streets ensuring naughty tourists stay in their hotels.

Bali’s usual flurry and bustle ceases. No neighbour’s loudspeaker system, or buzz of machinery on a building site, or the screeching of motorbikes will mar the silence. No women with baskets on their heads, or temple processions will be seen. The downside of course, is that no restaurants or convenience stores or entertainment will operate. It is the day to go within.

You don’t go out on the street or you may find yourself approached by the village police or pecalang – those lovely guys dressed in black shirts and poleng ( black and white woven cloth) over their sarongs who will ask you to return to your hotel.

In reality, Nyepi is one part of a four part ritual that begins three days before with Melasti. Every banjar makes a melasti procession to a specially designated beach – which becomes a miracle of planning and timing as all over Bali, the beaches are filled with fabulous processions and ceremonies.

All statues of deities are cleaned and symbols used to help bring the conscious mind of the individual closer to the gods. The ceremony is aimed to clean not only the religious parephenalia of the individual temples

CULTURE

On the day before Nyepi, bhuta -kalas are lured to the village crossroads and focal points with elaborate offerings prepared the week before. Once the forces of evil have gathered to partake of the offerings, the village priest casts them out with elaborate curses, whilst the people of the village seek to terrify them with sound.

Huge papier-mache ogres, known ogoh-ogoh, are then marched around the streets, from west to east, before being burned. Small children grab plastic containers, cooking pots and any other noise making device and help to drive the demons from the streets, shouting “Megedi!

Megedi! Me Kaad, de ngoyong dini!�

[Get Out! Get Out! Move away from here, do not stay!] IN the desa or country villages, they make bamboo cannons which would scare the life out of any living creature.

but as an act of purification for the whole world. If you take yourself to a beach, you will witness in motion the great beauty and unity that is Bali. Long, beautiful processions of traditionally clad people making their way to the water from all over Bali, bringing the effigies of the gods from all of the village temples to help purify the people and the planet.

The ogoh ogoh are made by the youths in each banjar, (village community groups), and increasingly by other groups. Even expats have gotten into the game. Today, representations have strayed from traditional icons and could be figures of tourists, or beautiful girls, as well as ogres, Rangda or heroes from the Ramayana Hindu epic.

This will be in stark contrast to the 31st of March when, in a ritual known as Tawur Kesanga, a wild cacophony of sound breaks out and the entire population, it seems, creates a rioutous din aimed at driving all evil from the streets. These invisible causes of evil, demons known as bhuta –kalas, haunt desolated places, the seashore and the deep forests, likewise infesting the dangerous parts of the village such as the crossroads and the cemetery.

This is a not a night to try and get the children to bed early. They stay up as late as everyone, to join in the festivities, revel in the making of noise and the releasing of tensions.

The bamboo canons are fired, kulkuls (traditional Balinese bamboo slit-drums) banged and fire-crackers let off with mischievous delight.

10 UbudLife

At midnight all noise ceases, in preparation for Nyepi Day. Everyone returns home, unplug appliances, turn off lights, and retire. Upon waking, except for the sound of the roosters and birds, streams and sea, all is stillness. The whole island moves inward.

More recently, even the airport, is shut down (once, years ago I had to go to the airport on Nyepi Day and the island was completely deserted) and only an emergency trip to the hospital is possible, should you really need it.

It is this ability to go inward, the ability to listen to their hearts, to release our own hidden demons through ritual - it is the ability to believe and pay homage - that sets the Balinese apart. Nyepi signifies humanity’s ability to go inward, the ability to assert spiritual control over the forces of evil, the cacophony that is the contemporary world.

As visitors to the island we can follow the Balinese and use Nyepi as a day for giving up, for letting go of the bustle of our individual existences, and cultivate the silence within. It is an extraordinary time for all of us and whether we sit and watch TV, go rent a villa in the Gilis, or actually use it for our own personal development, it is up to us.

After the day of silence, the fourth and last part of the ritual, Ngembak Geni, is the day when Balinese Hindus visit their friends and relatives, their neighbours, and ask forgiveness for any wrongdoing that may have occurred. All is fresh and new again, the world and the hearts of the people have been cleansed.

Ideally, we can practice minimalism. Prepare food the day before, turn off the lights and tv and stay inside, on all levels. We can observe the spiritual nature of the rite, and grow.

...

UbudLife 11

EDITOR’S NOTE

Like Us!

facebook.com/ubudlifemagz

UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu Welcome to our new edition of Ubud Life. By now the beautiful wet season should be just about over and the island will be at its best. Green and luscious but with blue skies instead of grey. It’s perfect time of the year to enjoy Nyepi - the day of silence. Read and learn all about it in this issue.

Once again it is time for the fabulous Bali Spirit Festival when people descend from heavenly abodes around the world to enjoy five magical days of love, light, music yoga and all things of the spirit. Even if you don’t come for the whole Festival, be sure to drop in for at least a day or two. The music alone is always fabulous.

All Ubudites sooner or later like to head to the sea and this month we take a look at the romantic side of Candidasa. When you drive straight through this long established seaside resort, you may not realize what a wealth of fabulous things there are to see and do hidden in the nearby hills.

In Ubud, yoga and health are always a priority and this month we meet up with Tyr Throne. Could we call him a posturologist? This ex ballet dancer knows all about the body and he is currently here to dispel a few myths about posture and the way we hold our bodies. A session with him is guaranteed to change your thinking not to mention your posture.

Jean Couteau’s intruiging history or Bali continues with part 2. Here we can enjoy an encaptulated version of all his years of research and learning in a nice easy presentation. Thank you Jean.

And still there is more. Why not grab a copy and delve into food, fun and fabulous Bali, with gratitude.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

The Editor

Cover photo courtessy by BSF Fun time of great spirit at Ubuds sixthy fabulous Bali Spirit Festival

14 UbudLife

editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance wayan sudianta distribution ubudlife-gsb team contributors richard horstman mark ulyseas jean couteau chef simon ayu sekar ibu kat lisa publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) kuta permai blok II no. 23, tuban bypass ngurah rai, kuta - bali 80361 p: 0361 752691, f: 0361 764360 e: info@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 cv. gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

contents 6

NYEPI BALI’S DAY OF SILENCE

18

BALI SPIRIT FESTIVAL 2014

GOUTAMA STREET

58

BEHIND BALINESE DOORS

16 UbudLife

62

30

WAYAN SILA

40

TERRACE ABING RESORT

70

CILLING IN CANDIDASA

E

njoy your beautiful scenery during your stay here. Large and luxurious yoga space, room with very romantic view, open bathroom, garden and lush garden, stunning rice terrace, and infinite swimming pool.

Great activities such as: yoga retreat, rice terrace trekking, jungle trekking, bird watching, holy bathing, sight seeing in near traditional village will give you unforgettable experiences.

We also provide you with excellent raw food, vegan food, or normal food. You can order in advance any dishes and we will make your lunch or dinner experience great.

Br. Kebon, Tegallalang, Gianyar, Bali - Indonesia | Phone: +62 361 980 970 | Fax: +62 361 980 969 Email: abingterrace@gmail.com | Website; www.abingterrace.com

FESTIVAL

happenings around ubud abilities. Whether you are looking to stretch those legs and back, heal an old injury, manage chronic pain, develop core strength and improve flexibility, or just become more aware of your movement patterns so that your body can function with greater ease and efficiency, Movement Matters can offer you something to suit your needs.

PILATES IN UBUD Movement Matters the first Pilates and Gyrotonic studio in Ubud, Bali, equipped with state-of-the-art equipment from both GYROTONIC® and STOTT PILATES and featuring a certified Rolfer™. They offer a variety of small group and one-on-one sessions to both residents of and visitors to the Island of the Gods.

Their beautiful, custom-built studio is located in Nyuh Kuning Village, Ubud. As a pioneer in Pilates in Bali, they take pride in their superb-quality imported equipment and experienced, knowledgeable and compassionateinstructors. “We strive to make every client feel comfortable and confident in working with us.”

Movement is their expertise and their services can benefit a wide range of ages and physical 24 UbudLife

Director and Senior Instructor Sook Fun Chen has been a movement enthusiast for 28 years. Sharing her work with her clients and helping them to achieve their wellness goals is her focus and passion.

5 Jl Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning - Ubud.

Open - 7am to 9pm daily.

T: +62 822 6608 6611

Bridges Bridging Table – apologies to Bridges.

Some of the info for their fabulous Saturday Bridging Table event went missing in our last issue – one of those inexplicable things that happen now and then. Each Saturday Bridges hold a table for singles, travellers, or for anyone who would like to meet new people. For a very reasonable Rp: 380,000++, you will be served canapés, a welcome drink and a three course meal with choices. Enjoy great company with a maximum of 8 guests per table. You never know who you will meet. Bridges on the river at Campuhan. It starts at 18.45 for a welcome drink and canapés. Dinner starts at 7.30.

Don’t be late!

T: 0361 970095

AYUSHA SPA Talk of the town is the stunning new Ayusha Wellness Spa right on the Campuhan River.

A part of the soon to open Svarga Loka Resort and this spa is simply a gem! Hidden down a road by the side of Sri Ratih Resort in Penestanan, you are simply not prepared for what you will find there. With open treatment rooms looking over the river and glorious natural views all around, it is the sort of place where you want to spend all day. You can too, with one of their special day packages.

Gentle iron wood steps take you down past the beautifully styled restaurant and past many small nooks and bales for relaxing in.

Trees and jungle greet you at every turn, in a friendly way.

The treatments are well executed and while the menu is still developing, you can already experience a relaxing hot stone massage, an Ayurvedic treatment and many more.

After your treatment you can soak in the bath and just enjoy the sounds and view of the river below. Spa Director Claudia Jones who has recently come from Thailand is well in charge of everything at one of Ubud’s great surprises.

The Spa and Wellness Centre is open and the hotel will open late April. T: 081353390498, www.ayushawellness.com

OZONE THERAPY IN UBUD Ozone therapy is a relatively new treatment where the blood becomes enriched and can help with many different diseases and health conditions.

The Bali Ozone Clinic does a therapy where several litres of blood pass through a filter and are ozoneated before re-entering the body – a therapy which is very helpful for a number of diseases. It is also good for circulatory conditions, high cholesterol, bacterial, viral and fungal infections, uric acid. The list goes on.

They also do facial injections, which helps the skin to grow more collagen giving a fresher, younger appearance after a series of shots.

You can drop buy the clinis and speak with the very helpful girls who will give more information.

The New clinic is located right next to Toyo Clinic in Pengosekan T: 0361 - 8755158 or call Dr Chandra direct on T: 081238225508 he comes to Ubud several times a week.

TAMAN NUSA

JAMU SHOP A little way up Jl Andong on the right before you get to Delta Dewata’s huge supermarket you will see a cute little wooden house painted in houses of blue with the sign ”Jamu”.

Stop. Go inside, take a look, learn. These lovely folk are making Jamu – ( Indonesia’s traditional herbal medicine) with recipes handed down from Yogyakarta’s Royal House. He has leaflets explaining the uses of different herbs and as well as the turmeric juice which we are all accustomed to (if we know anything at all about healthy living), they make others such as red ginger and the magnificent Temaluwak which actually has even more benefits than turmeric. It aides digestion, ulcers and constipation. It is a liver cleanser, and is good for rheumatism and lowering cholesterol. The list is endless. They also do special blends for problems such as kencing manis ( diabetes), high cholesterol and more.

Drop by. The prices are cheap and the quality is high. You can order bottles or simply take a glass right there on the spot. The jamu are all made fresh daily.

Kedai Jamu, Jl Andong. T: 081895329870 28 UbudLife

Animals have long held center stage in Bali at popular parks such as the Bali Animal and Safari Park, Bali Zoo and the Bali Bird Park. Now just a scenic 45-minute drive from Ubud is 15 hectares dedicated to showcasing Indonesia’s history and ethnic diversity. The historical journey begins with the primitive pre-historic age, then ventures onto the bronze age before a replica of the famous Borobudor Temple serves as the magnificent focal point to represent the kingdom age.

A bronze figure of Gajah Mada, or Elephant General, declaring the “Sumpah Palapa” oath in the 1300’s stands in front of the Trowulan Temple signifies the transition to the patriotic, revolutionary era. To learn about the country’s post-colonial independence and recent socioeconomic development, a mini train diorama is set against a backdrop of Indonesia’s cities and rural areas.

The park also showcases performing arts shows displaying ethnic populations and guests can participate in interactive displays of batik making, weaving, embroidery and more. It is all to be enjoyed in a natural setting overlooking the Melangi River and surrounded by verdant rice terraces.

T: 0361 952952, sales@taman-nusa.com, www.taman-nusa.com

BAR LUNA MOVES TO AN EXCITING NEW VENUE

The popular night sport Bar Luna, has moved to a bigger more open, more cool space beneath the ever popular Casa Luna on Ubud’s Jl Raya.

Equipped with their own personal kitchen, they have innovated a brand new menu - small but innovative and different to the old. Their great coffee however, remains the same.

Monday, Wed and sometimes Thursday sees special events nights. Spoken word events such as a regular story telling night, poetry and open mike nights and the ever popular music nights will all be happening.

Enjoy the two for one cocktails at Happy Hours 5-7 every day.

Two drinks for 55K – you cant beat it!

Free internet of course! T: 0361 977409

TAMAN TAKSU GARDEN CAFE A Green, Healthy Oasis

This recent addition to the Ubud eatery scene is located in one of the loveliest spots. Its lush, natural setting sets it apart from others in the area. A thoughtfully laid out garden of traditional Balinese herbs is set in the midst of covered and open air dining spaces.

Start the day tranquilly with a light breakfast of freshly baked pastries or try their ultrahealthy cereals. The lunch menu offers eleven hot and cold soups, and organic salads. Try the dill cured salmon salad with avocado and thinly sliced cucumber or the cold soba noodle veggie salad.

Enjoy sandwiches on Panini, while turkey lovers will love the authentic roasted turkey while the smoked salmon and cream cheese is also delightful.

Or try the Labsang Souchong sandwich made from eggs boiled in Lapsang tea to create a strong smoky flavor reminiscent of dry spice and wood.

Best shared due to the generous portions are the nachos, tomato and avocado tostadas and mezze plate.

Gluten free breads and pasta are available too, but best to book ahead in you have a specific bread type in mind. Other dishes, including raw and vegan options, can be ordered from the Taksu Terrace Restaurant. www.taksuspa.com T: (0361) 971490 reservations@taksuspa.com

32 UbudLife

WHO’S WHO

by richard horstman

“On the first night I slept at my new studio an owl flew into the garden. It wasn’t a coincidence that I noticed it perched in a tree,” says Balinese artist Wayan Sila. “This was a special experience and powerful omen. A gift from the Gods to me.”

The owl is much revered by indigenous cultures and in folklore around the world as a guardian spirit, as well as a wise creature capable of extraordinary sight. Balinese mythology reveals that if an owl visits a family compound while a female member is pregnant this is indeed a positive sign.

Burung Hantu literally translates from bahasa Indonesia into the English language as ghost bird; or the owl, the mysterious bird of the night.

“I have a unique connection with owls. It is a potent image that resonates with my heart. I was intuitively led to draw the owl and then I began to include it in my works. It has now manifested into a personal symbolic image, equivalent to the Barong. The owl also encourages me to reflect on the joy that I derive from my family life,” says Wayan.

Born in Ubud 1970, Wayan Sila was inspired by his grandfather, well known local artist Wayan Barwa. From an early age he regularly visited Barwa’s studio and gallery, surrounded by the paintings of his Balinese heritage, this was the perfect scenario for a child to learn to draw and paint.

Wayan soon became adept in the “Ubud Style” of modern traditional Balinese painting. In the evolution of Balinese painting during the last century, from its origins of the Classical Kamasan style that concerned teachings from the Hindu Epics, many villages then began to create their own distinctive style.

The Ubud style moved away from the religious and began to be characterized by narratives that involve daily village life and depictions of rural and environmental landscapes. The artists from Ubud were quick to adopt western influences in the 1930’s, depth of field, shades of color, local stories and the development of the human figure. The Kamasan style was originally a collective work and never signed by an individual. The new personalized and expressive form of Balinese painting has its roots firmly entrenched here in Ubud.

UbudLife 33

Wayan’s canvases are beautifully composed and resound with an overwhelming sense of balance and harmony. His highly detailed works are first sketched in pencil then outlined in black Chinese ink finally they are rendered in acrylic paint with a fine kaus bamboo, a small piece of bamboo crafted with a tiny point to apply the medium. A large canvas, 100 x 80 cms may take up to six months to complete.

“In 1997 I was inspired to include owls in my compositions after seeing a wonderful sketch by a Japanese child.”

Wayan’s relationship with the burung hantu then initiated an endearing association with the people of Japan, to whom the owl is symbolic of happiness. He first visited Japan in 2002 and his premiere solo exhibition there was in 1998.

34 UbudLife

Every year since then Wayan has enjoyed the privilege of exhibiting work in galleries, department stores, even in the Indonesian Consulate in Tokyo. He has held over 15 solo exhibitions in Japan, and numerous other exhibitions in Bali, Jakarta, Spain and also at the prestigious Agung Rai Museum of Art here in Ubud.

“It’s an honor for me to be invited on intercultural exchange programs teaching young Japanese students traditional Balinese painting techniques. I do this each year when I visit Japan.” Wayan has since developed a healthy market for his works there and continues to sell to the Japanese tourists who often visit his Ubud studio/gallery.

Wayan’s cooperative works with Japanese poet Yoko Jatiasih have been the focus of two books. They initially collaborated in 1998 to create music and poetry for his paintings.

Journey 700 meters along Jalan Bisma until the roadside urban development gives way to the effervescence of the padis. Down on the right hand side nestled in the sawah you will find his small abode. Look for the sign on the road then follow the narrow path that divides the green swaying fields to his studio/gallery encircled by the bamboo fence.

Wayan has created a personal space that reflects the elements that enrich and sustain him. Situated in the middle of the yard he has built a bamboo bale which functions as his studio, yet also as a place of quiet retreat. The surrounding garden is abundant with organic vegetables, fruit trees, medicinal herbs, ornamental shrubs and flowers. Wayan has created his special own oasis.

In 2004 their first book “Kata Kata” Echoes From The Woods, and then in 2010 “Pelan Pelan” were published.

Browsing through these books, the creative synergy between the two is easy to recognize.

Yoko’s short poems, no more than 6 lines, resonate with an uncomplicated intelligence.

Upon the opposing page to the text are Wayan’s complimentary images created especially to accompany each poem.

As you contemplate each words essence, while studying Wayan’s images, the mysterious bird of the nights’ full round eyes are firmly transfixed upon you. The fusion of words along with the images perplex the imagination, and then defy you to believe their medium is the owl’s silent and alluring gaze.

As you enter his two Bali dogs are quick to offer enthusiastic greetings. The verdant vegetation is soothing and inviting. I discover rabbits, exotic birds and frogs and snakes are frequent visitors, so Wayan tells me. Stone carvings covered with brilliant green moss hide among the foliage, shrines and small Hindu temples are adorned with offerings and the cent of burning incense seduces the senses. An outhouse serves as a simple kitchen and two rooms contain Wayan’s gallery painting collection and books for sale.

When we observe Wayan’s paintings we enter into a beautiful and extraordinarily tranquil world. His owls’ peer out from within forests and lush scenes, their big eyes possess a magnetic pull and communicate a language that is deciphered in our hearts. Wayan Sila is a painter of immense sensitivity and his works are vehicles of healing qualities and love.

...

In 2011 Wayan relocated to his new studio gallery in Jalan Bisma in Ubud.

UbudLife 35

THESECRETARTOFPANDI

MASTERPIECE - 2013 (3meter x 2.50meter - acrylic on canvas US$150.000) TWO GALLERY IN UBUD: Pandi Nekat Gallery (in the middle of rice field, on the way to Sari Organic) Uma Subak Sok Wayah, Ubud • Mobile 081 338 389 169 Kobe Gallery Jl.Bisma, Ubud, Phone: 081 805 545 560

STANDING TALL WITH TYR THRONE 38 UbudLife

WELLNESS

L

ife and all its pressure causes our bodies to freeze up - to tighten and bend, so those beautiful youthful curves and the fluidity we have as babies tends to shrivel and die.

We bend, we curve, in all the wrong ways. We become more rigid, losing our flexibility, which conspires to make us look older. Now we can reeducate our bodies to stand tall and free, with mobility and fluidity. If we follow Tyr and his programs of “Youthing” and more particularly, Somology, we can regain much of the flexiblilty we had in our youth and feel better in our own bodies.

Tyr describes it as “structural reintergration” using his own brand of practices that he has developed over years of observing dancers and athletes. A one-time ballet dancer himself, Tyr knows the body well, and to attend one of his workshops at Taksu Spa is nothing short of amazing. To see people become aware of their bodies and to discover how easy it is to change, is really inspirational.

One girl in the class is a personal trainer and a yoga practitioner, but in spite of her fitness level and exotic good looks, she had very little flexibility in her hips. After a session with Tyr, she had become much more aware of her lack of flexibility, started to address it, and by the end of the class, she had already started to loosen up.

During the session, Tyr takes videos of people walking around and reshoots at the end of a session. The differences can be nothing short of remarkable.

One woman who had a motorbike accident was told independently by two doctors that she would need an operation to fix her shoulder but one session with Tyr fixed that problem for good! To say that she was astonished barely covers it!

Tyr sees himself as a bit of a Sherlock Holmes – a detective and he studies his patients to find the root of their problems. He has studied dancers and Athletes to see how the best performers actually operate their bodies.

It is the skills of “youthing that makes you “mechanichally younger” rather than cosmetically younger. There is little point in having a young face with an old body, which always looks somewhat unnatural.

With a lift of his body and a straightening of his body, Tyr can lift twenty years off his age in minutes – it is really fun to watch.

...

Tyr at Taksu Spa, off Jl Hanoman T: 0361 971490.

UbudLife 39

JALAN GOUTAMA-THE STREET WHERE SMALL IS THE NEW COOL by lisa • images jill alexander

N

s with most urban areas, it only takes one enterprising soul to open a unique café, boutique, art shop, or some chic combination on a previously ordinary street to set off an explosion of trendy followers. Jalan Goutama which runs parallel to Jalan Monkey Forest and Hanoman has just detonated. Although difficult to pinpoint who created the impetus, the rapid diversification is nothing short of astonishing, as new establishments open almost weekly. Blink your eyes and there is another new one appearing! Balinese families are opting to convert their tiny street frontages into more commercial spaces for family members to operate or to be leased out. The results are surprising as the outlets have a cozy, friendly ambiance, each with its own unique character!

Small warungs seem to be in vogue with the recently opened Né Warung and Souly Butter Kitchen, both with space for just 8 to 10 people if everyone squeezes tightly onto their wooden benches. Slightly elevated from the road, they are wonderful perches for watching the colourful passing parade.

Souly’s specializes in fresh baked pastries, sandwiches and even an electric guitar if the urge moves him to play. Cupcakes are highly recommended at Souly and the Papaya Salad at Né, although do check out their daily blackboard specials.

Tiramisu is best known for the sweet eggshaped, wicker porch swing and their more contemporary take on food. It too has limited seating, so get in early to enjoy dishes such as sweet potato hummus, pumpkin pasta and kale salad with fern tips and coconut.

Warung Dewa and Warung Local, long time backpacker favorites, are still buzzing away in spite of the new competition. Their intimate spaces make for easy networking and you will always meet folks there. The mostly 42 UbudLife

young Balinese staff are full of eclectic stories and happy to provide tourist tips.

Down to Earth at the intersection of Jalan Hanomon and Goutama Selatan, specializes in vegetarian cuisine and the downstairs shop is stocked with everything from yoga clothes, vitamin supplements, organic ingredients and wicked raw desserts. For health crazed Ubudians, this is one of the prime stops to sustain their lifestyle.

EXPLORE UBUD

French crepes at Confiture Michele with jams lovingly made by Michele will hit the spot and not the pocket book. Free tastings of her delicious fruit jams and chutneys keep this closet-size shop super busy.

The French connection continues at Melting Wok with their French-Laotian chef combining French, Laos and Thai flavors in simple dishes. Their main stay is sautéed curry rice or noodles with any combination of meat, tempe, tahu and seasonal fish, and with optional coconut milk. Sounds simple, but customers loved it so much that they were quickly ranked number 1 among Trip Advisor’s Ubud restaurants and still are in the top five.

Reservations recommended.

All sorts of pasta dishes with thick tomato based sauces can by relished at Dolce Arancia, one of Ubud’s finest Italian restaurants. They have an excellent, reasonably priced wine list to complement their snug atmosphere, reminiscent of a little Soho eatery. The Italian owner, Stefano, learned his trade at his mother’s apron strings. She would be very proud of what comes out of his kitchen.

Grazie Mama!

UbudLife 43

selection of international comfort food. At both locations you can sample a tasty variety for very little outlay, so ideal for diners not familiar with Indonesian and Balinese cuisine.

An endearing trend for husbands who hate to shop is the fusion of chic boutique with trendy eatery. Warung Bernadette serves up delicious rendang, a world famous beef or chicken dish slowly cooked in coconut milk and spices until the liquids merge into a thick gravy. The surrounding shop area is chocka-block with imaginative animal and robot creations from recycled metals. Great for unusual, green – friendly gifts.

Thai is the newest addition to Goutama’s ethnic dining scene. Warung Siam offers everything that would be expected with a no frills ambiance. Watch out for the walls splashed with almost life sized paintings of elephants and a distinctly Thai sounding menu.

When it comes to small, it is not just the premises. The food too as the tapas concept has been Balinized in several locations.

Nomad’s Restaurant which has anchored the corner of Jalan Raya Ubud and Jalan Goutama since 1979 was the first with Bali tapas trend and it is still one of their most popular items.

BiahBiah, a well-designed warung midway along Goutama, packs in people with their wide range of Balinese tapas served in ecofriendly, banana leaf containers. The recently opened Dapur Bunda just a few meters from Jalan Goutama is the new tapas kid on the block with Indonesian items inspired by traditional home cooking and a small 44 UbudLife

Both parties can rejuvenate at Kismet on the corner of Jalan Dewi Sita and Goutama with innovative vegetarian cuisine served in the heart of a concept store next to a Balinese family compound. Jewelry created by worldwide designers and only sold at Kismet is displayed below glass tabletops. The ultimate luxury for lazy shoppers and hungry eaters!

Their yoga inspired, street wear is comfy and fun. From what is undoubtedly the most compact kitchen on the street come highly creative, organic concoctions. There is even a high tea praised by the High Tea Society (yes there is such an organization!) given both their commitment to British social tradition

ornaments for the body that reflect the earth’s energy. The founder is active in many charitable organizations, but her personal passion is Mule Jewels, a rehabilitative silver making program inside the notorious Kerobokan Jail. Her vision, now a touching reality, was to teach inmates a trade skill that they are able to use upon release, as well as keep them active with constructive work versus engaging in counter-productive activities. All proceeds from Mule Jewel sales are utlised to buy more silver and tools to sustain the project, a true feel good purchase.

with a think local attitude with coconut cups and black elephant teapots for local tea or chai tea with rice milk.

There is a row of shops just across the road from these restaurants if more retail therapy in on the cards. You can chat away with two talented mask makers, or survey the vibrant bags and irresistible cushions of all shapes and sizes from India, brilliant Hmong embroidered cushions and bags from Thailand, and other gorgeous stuff from Mexico. Although the uber cute shop has no name, you can’t miss it as it is ablaze with color, almost opposite DYPT!

Of all the small spas, Skin, with its beautiful products derived from Mother Nature, is wildly popular. Know that you can trust that your body is being anointed naturally.

Taksu Spa is also organic with the experience enriched by a location in the midst of a tropical jungle.

Le Boheme has clothing, fabric and bed covers using hand-woven fabrics, natural dyes and organic cotton, plus some linen and silk creations. Just opposite is the newest boutique for the exquisite Ananda Design collection showcasing organically and ethically produced clothing made in Ubud. Their jewelry collection in this classily decorated shop donates 10% of their profits to the Safe Childhoods Foundation.

DYPT is another uber cute shop, with Indian style exterior and wonderful hand loomed, natural dyed, stylish textiles, cushions and scarves inside. With ethnic methods and modern designs, the two marry perfectly to produced must have scarves and home décor. Indian influenced, and produced with directions from the designer, while others are made in Bali all with modern designs.

In case none of this suits your fancy, there are two tattoo centers on Goutama with permanent or temporary souvenirs of your Bali holiday!

Then just on the corner is the longestablished Yin Jewelry for the Soul shop opposite Kismet. It primarily features silver

Enjoy the diverse array of experiences along today’s hip Goutama.

Lovers of music, poetry and literature, will find that the popular Bar Luna has moved to Casa Luna restaurant on Jalan Raya Ubud, just a short walk away!

...

UbudLife 45

bridges

chatting with Sommelier Antoine Olivain When bridges are built they often bring together what might seem like the impossible. Here in Ubud, bridges has done just that. They have created a world class selection of wines – an outstanding achievement in Bali, where it is sometimes difficult to even find a wine list at all, let alone one of this class.

Offering over 200 wines from most wine producing countries of the world, bridges has become the wine mecca of Ubud with an impressive range of white, rosé, red, sparkling, champage & dessert wines. bridges not only has a fabulous wine list, but also a fabulous wine shop – it is a pleasure to enter the dimly

46 UbudLife

lit, cool, cavernous interior.

The wave of sophisticated tourists and expats who love all things vinous and stylish now have the place to buy wine in excellent conditions.

Guests can enjoy various tasting areas - from the small outside area which hosts the DIVINE Friday wine tastings, with live music, to the relaxed clubby area just inside the entrance, where a casual glass of wine and a nibble can be enjoyed with a view of the jungly Wos River.

Downstairs is the more refined and elegant restaurant area. Its slightly colonial air invites relaxation, you can sit back and know you will be treated well while enjoying great food.

With the recent appointment of the very talented Sommelier Antoine Olivain, bridges is again stepping forward. Born in the Alsace region of France to a family of vintners, Antoine studied International Wine Business Management before going to ‘the world- renowned’ Sommelier School in Avignon, South of France. He then spent one year in Châteauneuf-du-Pape and travelled throughout France learning about food and wine pairing.

A more passionate, energetic and friendly young man would be hard to find. He is creative, tall and charming - an open-minded Frenchman who is a delight to meet and chat to.

Not an ounce of that typical French Sommelier pomposity, just a great working knowledge of wines. He is simply absorbed in all things vinous, with a hunger to learn and continue learning and not only about French wines but wines from all over the world! If anybody has a spare moment, do drop into the shop upstairs and you will lose yourself in his energy and knowledge. As wonderful an experience as wandering into any good wine merchant in London!

He is currently reviewing and developing the bridges wine selection.

The 1st March will see new additions and many old favourites, together with Antoine’s Sommelier Selection.

Those who enjoy the weekly DIVINE Friday, (bridges’ relaxed Friday evening social event, where guests converge to enjoy a glass of wine and meet new friends while tasting the delicious complimentary canapés), may like to

go further. Also in March, Antoine is introducing a weekly DIVINE Masterclass upstairs in the stylish air-conditioned shop. Guests have the chance to try several quality wines and learn how to taste, and tell and differentiate varieties.

It is all good fun and a great way to learn more. bridges also offers specially selected Wines of the Month which are changed bi-monthly as well as a great selection of wines by the glass - which they plan to expand in the future. All wines at bridges are kept at the correct cellar temperature to ensure optimum quality.

Antoine says “my goal is to offer pleasure and happiness to the customers. The world of wine is a wonderful world bringing nature, art, passion and people together”. This man is genuine.

...

Thank you bridges - you are a great addition to the community.

UbudLife 47

Spirit of Bali words • image by ayu sekar

Surrounded with visions of white lace kebaya, this little girl is keeping a tight grip on mother while attending an iconic ceremony in the Kintamani area.

Om Suastiastu

AN INTRODUCTION TO BALINESE RELIGION PART 2 by jean couteau

Here we bring you the second part of jean Couteau’s history of Balinese religion – the basis of all Balinese life SIWA-BUDA From the point of view of religion, the main contribution of the Siwa-Buda tradition is the introduction of the Hindu cosmic framework of thinking. To the Balinese the world (bhwana agung) is a living totality uniting spiritual and material elements - dewas and butas - in an unending process of transformation. This is symbolized by the pangider-ider “rose of the wind”, a system a correspondence between directions, gods, elements, colors, weapons, days etc. The Oneness of God - Atintya or Paramasiwa among other names - is thus the merging of spirit/masculine (purusa) and matter/feminine (pradana), of the three forces of creation (utpeti with the god Brahma), balance (stitti with the god Wisnu) and destruction (pralina with the god Siwa). These three trimurti gods then turn into the four gods of the cardinal points (caturdewa), which become five (pancadewata) by inclusion of the center, then 8 (astadewata) by inclusion of the intermediate directions, nine (dewata nawa sanga) with the center again, etc.. till the Oneness merges into the infinite.

Man, as an element, and structural duplicate, of this cosmos (bhwana alit), is subjected to a similar process of dynamic transformation – the samsara transmigration of the soul. Incarnation, which binds the soul to a body, is considered a hellish condition which everyone should strive to overcome by achieving moksa or ultimate enlightenment. Then the individual’s soul and body rejoin their cosmic equivalent.

Another important aspect of Indian religious influence is the imposition of a caste system over the Balinese indigenous stratification system. The four castes of Hindu theory (caturwarna): brahmana, (priests), satria (warriors),

54 UbudLife

wesia (traders), and sudra (commoners), already Javanized, are added to an Austronesian system of rank opposing aristocrats (menak or triwangsa) to commoners (panjak or jaba). Added to a kinship system of wargas (clan), this makes for the complex outlook of Balinese traditional stratification.

The Siwa-Buda facet of Balinese religion traditionally revolved around the puris (palace) and the grias (brahmanic households). The kings or rajas, as axis mundi, kept the agrarian system in place and united it. The high priests ( pedandas Siwa and pedandas Buda) while providing the king’s power with its ideological foundation, consecrated the system with their mantras and holy water (tirta). They never intervened in the running of village temple rituals, except to “puput” or “give the finishing touch”. Occupying the upper level of society, representing as well as endowing within themselves the maximum political and religious power, the brahmanas reinterpreted the “popular” facet in line with the Indianized tradition, while remaining, with the kings, on top of it. It is this system which is challenged today.

THE HINDU-DHARMA FACET The political role and function played by religion throughout the classical and feudal period of Balinese history, as well

BALINESE RELIGION PART 2 as its strongly indigenous aspect ran counter with the demands of modernity in a multi-ethnic and democratic nation-state. To gain not only recognition, obtained in 1961 under the name of Hindu Dharma, but also acceptance by its Moslem and Christian partners, Balinese Hinduism had to modernize, i.e. to cast off the antiquated legacy of its earlier history. This meant essentially three related things: the rediscovery of Hindu universalism, the rational re-conceptualization of the faith and the abandonment of reactionary aspects of the past tradition, in particular its caste system.

The Balinese did not wait for the official recognition of their religion by the Indonesian state to initiate its modernization. The process had started much earlier, in the 1920s, when the Dutch educational system opened to a few Balinese all the mysteries of the map of the world, with the subcontinent of India graphically depicted. The ideas of the Indian Hindu reformist movement poured in, and criticism of the caste system became a favorite topic of local learned journals. The need for a Hindu universalism was affirming itself beyond the vaunted uniqueness of Balinese lore. Some thirty years later, after Independence and the formal recognition of Hindu Dharma (1961), this universalism was at last given a national content.

The Balinese were now legally in the position to give an assertive support to communities claiming a common Hindu heritage - Javanese, Batak, Sundanese, Toraja, Dayak who were, especially after the 1965 events, embracing the Hindu faith in large numbers and putting themselves under the protection of the mainly Balinese Hindu Dharma.

In a few years, aided by transmigrant Balinese, Hinduism became, under the shield of the state, a genuinely national religion. Temples were built all over the country, in whichever area could claim a Hindu community of some import. The process is still under way. An All-Indonesia Hindu temple now exists at the foot of the Semeru the highest mountain in Java and abode of the

gods transferred from the Indian Meru - and the Prambanan temple has been reopened to Hindu rituals. Indonesian followers of Hindu Dharma may number as many as 6 or 7 million people, more than twice the population of the Balinese heartland.

This change of scope, added to internal changes to society, was paralleled with a rationalization of the Hindu theological framework. In this matter the Balinese moved cautiously. Rather than simply revamp their local tradition, which would have created unending parochial conflicts, and been unacceptable to non-Balinese Hindus, they opted for a return to the Indian sources, essentially through an infusion of Vedas and other Indian Holy Books, such as the Upanishads and the Bhagavadgita. These texts, which were till this time either unknown or had been preserved under an altered or even unintelligible form, had the advantage of being culturally neutral and “theologically sound�. Balinese religion was thus adapted to the demands of an all-Balinese and all-Indonesian modernity through the revival of the old Indianization process.

Theologically, the infusion of Indian Scriptures enabled the creation of new tools, which were then diffused throughout the island and the country through publications and educational channels. Orthodoxy of the faith was emphasized, with five articles of creed --the Panca Sradha-promoted as the pillars of Hindu Dharma: belief in God (Brahman); belief in the soul (atman); belief in the karmapala principle --according to which one bears the consequences of one’s deeds; belief in the chain of reincarnations (samsara ); and belief in eternal deliverance (moksa). Meanwhile considerable leeway was allowed in the interpretation of the faith and in the implementation of rites, in accordance with the Balinese desa, kala , patra (adaptation to place, time and circumstances) tradition of tolerance.

Hindu Dharma could thus evolve as a single trunk with an indefinite number of branches and twigs.

...

Om Santi Santi Santi Om!

UbudLife 55

56 UbudLife

PALATABLE PLEASURE

Ways with Herb and Spices by chef simon • images windia

Variety is the spice of life and spices bring our food to life. Herbs, spices - what’s the difference? I’m going to say: Herbs: aromatic leaves of plants and trees. Spices: Aromatic roots, bark and berries and seeds. Feel free to argue. Both herbs and spices can be used either dry or fresh, the latter is often, but certainly not always best. I prefer dried oregano when used in baking for example.

After drying oregano, the flavour becomes more earthy and intense. I don’t see the point of drying basil though, as all that aromatic, peppery perfume goes out of the window and turns into a smell very similar to dried grass.

Pepper is a glorious spice. Back in the 1600’s, when the Dutch East India Company (VOC) returned to Holland with their ships laden with batches of peppercorns, the stuff was wildly popular and only available to the wealthy. To this day, when referring to something expensive, people in Holland say ‘peper duur’ literally, ‘pepper expensive’ despite the fact that pepper is a very affordable spice these days. Yes, pepper, to me is a delicious spice. But that is exactly what I like to use it as. A spice, well suited to certain dishes and ideally used freshly roasted, coarsely ground and added last minute, so that it’s pungent aroma compliments strong flavoured foods. Think animal protein such as grilled beef or tuna, pan fried mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, pumpkin, eggs etc.

Some restaurants offer shakers with old, aroma-less finely ground powder, which is supposed to resemble pepper on the tables.

Certain people, when being served their

chosen dish will then completely mindlessly, without examining their food first, reach for the salt and pepper shaker and dust their well earned meal. Nod your head if this is you. I doubt you have any reason for doing this other than an unconscious behavioural patterns copied from your parents. If this article makes you more pepper conscious then my job is done. An army of chefs who carefully season your food and want you to taste before you try to improve their job will be thankful. Now that I’ve unleashed my chef’s pride, I’d like to cheer up and share a few more fun ways with herbs and spices that you may or may not be familiar with.

To stick with pepper, try this Italian inspired dish. Place a cup of balsamic vinegar in a sauce pan and reduce it on low heat into a thick, sweet and sour syrup and allow to cool.

Place an array of fresh strawberries on a plate.

Drizzle with your balsamic syrup and grind black pepper over the top. Optional, rip of few basil leaves into pieces and sprinkle to finish off the dish.

UbudLife 57

I’m in love with sage, and it grows really well in Bali. Heat a thick layer of oil in a small saucepan to about 170 degrees. You’ll know its the right temperature when you drop in a clean, dry sage leave, it should crisp up and stop bubbling in under 15 seconds. When crisp, lift sage leaves from the oil onto a tissue.

Allow to cool before storing in a airtight jar.

Use these flavoursome crispies as a low carb crouton on your salad or a fancy decoration next time you’d like to impress your lover.

Another spice hero, cinnamon. In the west it’s often used in sweet pastries whilst in Asia you’ll find the bark of this tree in fragrant curries. Look for real cinnamon, in some countries it’s called continental or Dutch cinnamon, its supposed to be a thin, straw like piece of bark. If it’s thick you might be dealing with it’s cousin cassia which is not as fine in aroma. If you have a coffee grinder you can grind it yourself at home. I like using very small amounts of cinnamon to give a mysterious background aroma that people can’t place. It’s best used in this way in sweet tasting yet savoury dishes. Sprinkle a little onto pumpkin before roasting. A tiny piece of bark bubbling along in your sweet corn chowder or red wine sauce might have people begging for your secret.

When it comes to fresh herbs, go wild!

In the middle east they’ve got the right attitude, towards herbs anyway. Tabouleh is a salad with its main ingredient being flat leaf parsley. To eat parsley as a salad might take getting used to for some but once you start it’s addictive! You’ll also benefit from its many potent health benefits, a natural breath freshener being one of them. So give a big no to 1 sprig of parsley in your vegetable soup. Fresh herbs in soup are great but only add them just before serving, otherwise their aroma will be lost. Tough stemmed herbs like rosemary and thyme are an exception 58 UbudLife

to this and can be added a little earlier in the cooking process. And like I said, don’t hold back. Half a bunch of roughly chopped coriander finishes off a carrot and coconut soup. A handful of mint leaves thrown into a chickpea salad gives an added zest. A crazy mixture of dill, mint, coriander and parsley in your Vietnamese rice paper rolls will give them new life. That’s how we roll in fresh herb country!

Needless to say, any self respecting fresh herb guru grows their own. Imagine unlimited access to fresh herb heaven. At Bali Silent Retreat we grow our herbs right next to the kitchen so you see the cooks running in and out throughout the day. If you have a small patch of land, or even a window sill, it’s time to start growing that kitchen garden. Parsley, coriander, mint, basil are a good start. Go for well drained soil and dig in some manure to guarantee abundant growth. Keep it natural, lots of love and spray nothing on your herbs that you wouldn’t want to eat. They will grow for a couple of months, start flowering and disappear within a year, depending on how cold it gets in your winter. Parsley might stick around for another year depending on your care. When herbs start flowering, try giving them regular haircuts as the flowers don’t benefit the fragrant leaves. The cut flowers make great edible decoration. Coriander flowers will soon produce delicious seeds which can be used in all sorts of dishes.

Every couple of months plant more herbs for continuous crops. Another nice herb garden is a Mediterranean style setting, a well drained soil and not as much fertiliser is needed here.

Plants like rosemary, sage, lavender and thyme will get along well. These bushy herbs will stick around for many years and are all great for casseroles and slow roasted meals.

...

So my advice? Make friends with spices and herbs.

UbudLife 59

60 UbudLife

DESIGN

Behind Balinese Doors by charlie cambell • images windia, gsb

L

ike a portal into another world, the Balinese door is inviting, enticing and enchanting.

From unpretentious symmetry to complex carvings, Balinese doors come in a variety of shapes and sizes, often custom-made to fit the proportions of their owners. Exceptionally fine doors have been a means of displaying social wealth and status for hundreds of years. A rich man’s door might be elaborately carved and garnished with gold leaf, whereas a simple tricoloured mountain village door will be enhanced by the patina of age and exposure to the elements.

Traditionally Balinese doors were crafted of nangka, the strong wood of the jackfruit tree; a rich man might have used teak. Each wood boasts an attractive grain, but in the old days the timber was seldom left raw, instead it was painted in bright colors, lacquer, or gold leaf.

A good Balinese door is comprised of timber that has been air-dried for two-anda-half-years to ensure that the leaf of the door doesn’t shrink or warp. Defined by characteristics that are uniquely Balinese, it incorporates the highest standards of

carpentry, designed with traditional pivoting, tongue and groove techniques, and wooden post and lintel hinges, without the application of any metallic bolts, screws, or nails. The compound joint at the top of the door puts special demands on the craftsman, who must cut a series of complex angles to ensure that everything functions smoothly.

For centuries master woodcarvers have been commissioned to decorate the doors and lintels of temples and palaces. These early carvers, from the times of Bali’s old feudal kingdoms, often specialised in decorations for religious purposes.

Their intricately carved bas-relief tableaux, plaques and panels depict trees, flowers, birds, beasts, heraldic winged lions and protective guardians, drawn from the natural and mythical world of their heritage.

If you walk through the back lanes of the carving villages, you will hear the gentle hammering, sanding, and spontaneous chatter of the woodcarvers. They sit crosslegged on the ground, surrounded by piles of freshly carved wood chips. When creating a carving, the artisan outlines his design on UbudLife 61

the door, plotting a meticulous map for the piece he has envisioned, which could be as complicated as a scene from one of the great Hindu epics, The Mahabrata or The Ramayana.

Then, using a number of small tools and highly sharpened instruments, he lightly taps, chips, chisels and picks away at the wood until all of the minute details are visible. The door is then passed to another craftsman who is specialised in sanding and generally finishing off the piece. If the door is not to be gilded or painted, it is made smooth with pumice and given a high polish by rubbing it with bamboo to further highlight the features and texture. These master carvers do not jealously guard their skills; instead they willingly share their expertise with their sons and apprentices.

Balinese doors are an artistic expression The chinoiserie doors of Klungkung and Karangasem – where it all started – are very graphic and wildly painted. The Singaraja style is also heavily ornate and Chinese influenced because, for hundreds of years, Singaraja was the port through which the Chinese traders introduced their products, religion and culture. The Gianyar style is more settled and classic. The doors of palaces and ceremonial pavilions are decorated in gold prada and red kinju colouring. Primary colours are associated with gods and demons, and the traditional Javanese pairings of green and yellow, or blue and white can be found on gate doors.

The indigenous mountain door is single leafed, and often similar to the doors of the Majapahit era, with an eggshell paint finish, and carvings and designs analogous to those found in some of the ancient 16th century mosques of eastern Java. The principal pavilion and kitchen pavilion within a Balinese compound might also be single leafed.

62 UbudLife

Temple gates have a spiritual function and are always double leafed, as are shrines and home gates. Sometimes the leaves of the door are plain, but the frame, the lintel piece, and the surrounding architrave – often featuring a protective talisman figure – will where the decorative skill of the craftsman is showcased.

Balinese twin-leafed doors traditionally feature a wooden bolt on the inside, and brass ring handles on the outside. The rings are mounted on base plates and a padlock can be secured between the two rings.

Ingeniously designed and exquisitely executed, richly decorated or romantically rustic, rare, antique, and custom-made Balinese doors can be found at temples, royal palaces, traditional compound homes, hotels, villas, spas, and private residences all over the island. What goes on behind them, however, is another story…

...

UbudLife 63

This small twelve room resort is purpose built for yoga retreats and training courses.

With a beautiful yoga shala looking out over pristine rice fields in a secluded valley you feel that you are in another, more perfect world. Private villa rooms are set amongst the topical gardens and a pool nestles below.

For retreats, all equipment is provided and all that the retreat person needs to bring is the teachers and the group.

If a massage or a session with a local healer is required, Agung can easily arrange it.

He knows the best people for the job.

TERRACE ABING RESORT by jill alexander • image ayu sekar

H

idden away in the hills towards Kintamani, Terrace Abing Resort is a quiet place where all you will hear is the sound of birds and the rustle of leaves when breezes gently caress them. No motor bikes, no screaming trucks or other jangling distractions disturb the perfect peace.

64 UbudLife

Sometimes, if you are lucky and there is no group retreat in progress, private guests are welcome to come and stay. Honeymooners are wedding parties are also popular choices with guests from Australia, the United states, Europe and Japan.

RETREAT Food is a mix of Indonesian and western with many favourite choices. Vegetables are fresh and organic fare is easily arranged if you prefer to follow the health route.

A large pool surrounded with flowering shrubs is a place for quiet relaxation.

The resort is managed by A Agung Wijaya, the charming prince who comes from the nearby Kedisan Palace. After studying in Jakarta, he came back to his homeland to run the resort.

His local connections enable him to create interesting and unique cultural events. He has access to an ancient Leko Legong dance that has become almost extinct in Bali, that they have resurrected in Kedisan. There is also

an equally ancient Gambuh dance ensemble, which is accompanied by an ancient Gamelan orchestra, whose silvery tones sound quite different, to those more gamelan sets recently forged. He can even arrange a visit to his palace that lies just a few kilometres away.

When it is time to look around, Agung can easily arrange trips to Kintamani (only twenty minutes away). The amazing view of the caldera causes first timers (and even seasoned visitors) to gasp with awe, with the first glimpse from the edge. A huge panorama of the lake, the volcano and the remains of the great volcanic disturbance millennia ago, gives each visitor an understanding of the immense powers of nature.

You can make a sunrise ascent of Mt. Batur, or visit the hot springs, where you can relax in steaming mineral waters, that come directly from the volcanic mountain beyond.

While groups stay for up to a month when they are doing a yoga teacher training, overnight guests are also welcome. Or stay for a few days.

...

Terrace Abing, Br. Kebon, Tegallalang, Gianyar.

T: 62361-980970, F: 62361- 980969 E: abingterrace@gmail.com, Web: www.abingterrace.com

UbudLife 65

66 UbudLife

Terracota

Ayusha Wellness

Kopi Kat

Sri Ratih Cottages

Indian Delites

Warung Merta Sari

Dolce Arancia Toko Bead

We’ar

Milano Spa Mani Silver Down To Earth

Nomad

Gedong Sisi

Ubud Sari Health Resort

Warung Perancis

Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta allery

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Pilar Batu

Biah-Biah+

UBUD

ISLAND OF BALI

Tropical View Cafe

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, lies in the heart of Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists also apply their skills to making attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to view and temples and wonderous sights to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

UbudLife 67

ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance legong telek women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

tue

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 5.30 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

68 UbudLife

TIPS

pura protocol

tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples As visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

...

UbudLife 69

LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk Ja v a Fe rr y to Cekik

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan Sumbersari

Gerokgak

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Antu

Lovina

Gobleg

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Tamblin Mun

BA

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

ST

Pupuan Pujungan M

Tegalasih

R

Airanakan

P

a B e a ch

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbu Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Gobl

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

Temple

A

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang Labuhan lalang

Lake

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk Perancak

Munduk Yehkuning

Batungse

Tista

Batuagung

Sanda Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Ba

Manggissari Asahduren

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Belimbing

Ampadan

Balia

Balian Beach

Suraberata Selema Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera B ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Keramb Beraban

IN

D

O

N

Ti

E

Tanah

S

IA N

OC

EA

N

IN

Padan Sulu

Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

Banyuning

Pemaron

uran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Pegayaman

Tejakula Les Tegal

Gitgit

Asahpanji Pancasari

Catur Mt. Catur

Tembok Muntidesa

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Wongaya

Angantiga

Seribatu

Taro Sebatu

Alas Kedaton

ibubiyu

Gubug Kediri

Mengwi

Pandakgede Sempidi

h Lot

Mambal

Petak

Petulu

Sidemen Talibeng

Selat

UBUD

Akah

Bedulu

KLUNGKUNG

GIANYAR

Ubung Lumintang Tohpati Kerobokan DENPASAR B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak h Sumerta a Muding Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur Batubelig Sanur Sindhu Legi Petitenget Sanglah an B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang aB e Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong

Keramas

G

Be

ac

S

h h ac

N

DU

BA

San

ur

ch

Kuta SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Serangan NGURAH RAI BENOA HARBOUR NTERNATIONAL AIRPORT Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Jimbaran Bay Jimbaran Bingin Mumbul ng Padang Bualu Geger Kampial uban Nusa Dua Ungasan Sawangan watu N Pecatu h

Buitan

Sengkidu

Ujung

Asak Jasri Timbrah Bugbug

Jasri

Candidasa

Biaha Mimpang Tepekong ch ) s a Bea ay bok Lom nds ( Ferry Channel ili Isla G ) li a Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (B T Tanjung Sari AI Tanjung Jepun

IT

Fe rr

yP

LO ad an gb

O MB

ai ( Ba li ) -

Shipwreck

SD Sental Blue Corner Buyuk Jungutbatu Kutampi Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Telaga Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh Sentalkangin CENINGAN ISLAND Pidada Gelagah Crystal Bay Metakih Ponjok Bayuh Suana Malibu Manta Point Semaya Batumandeg Pejukutan Ambengan Batukandik Pendem Tanglad Soyor Bungkit Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Ramoan Sedihing Sekartaji

Lem bar (

K

Lom

NUSA PENIDA

Batuabah

us

a Dua Beac

Manggis Ulakan

Kusamba

A TR

Subagan

Padangbai A m u k B a n d i da

Batubulan Celuk

Canggu

Mt. Seraya 1175 Seraya

AMLAPURA

Tenganan

Silayukti Dawan Kamasan Goa Lawah Gelgel

Sidan Tihingan

Kutri

Mas

Kengetan Bone Sakah Silakarang Blahbatuh Sibang Angantaka Kemenuh Lebih Batuan Darmasaba Sukawati Singapadu

Bebandem Sibetan

Ferry to N usa Pe nida

Yeh Gangga Beraban

Sibang Bongkasa

Blahkiuh Peliatan Denkayu Abiansemal

Muncan

Pejaten

Batusari

Blayu

TABANAN

Samsam bitan

Tirta Gangga

Sulahan Singarata

Gili Selang Lempuyang

C

Bantas

Sangeh

Jemeluk Wall Amed Bunutan Reef Jemeluk Japanese Wreck Bunutan

Abang

Ababi

Menanga Muncan Selat Payangan Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Kuwum Ceking Tembuku Sindu Buruan Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban

Timpag Wanasari

adeg

Besakih

Kayubihi

Penebel Perean Pitra

Ngis

Culik

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Babahan

PURI WIRATA Dive Resort & Spa Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

y n Ba

Apuan

Tulamben

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

m

be

atukaru

T ul a

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Sekardadi

Nungkung

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan Lake Batur

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Mt. Batukaru Pacung 2276 el Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

2096 Lake Buyan Kembangmerta Lake Tamblingan Candi Kuning Lake Bratan Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bayun

Yehketipat

ngan nduk

Julah Bondalem

Bakungan Penginyahan

uk

leg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50 km

ST

bok

)

R

CHILLING IN CANDIDASA A great place for a romantic getaway by lisa • images ayu sekar

72 UbudLife

ESCAPES

O

nce a languorous half moon curve of palm shaded white sand beach, Candidasa was one of the prettiest places in Bali. It has changed.

Still small patches of that gorgeous white beach can be found, and now there are plenty of other attractions to enjoy and the accommodation has certainly improved.

As you drive in and turn left at the big curve, the smell of salt water hits and you know you are at the beach. You just want to jump out of the car and breath in deep lungfuls of fresh uncontaminated air - even before you reach your hotel.

And hotels there are Modern villas and fancy villas are dotted along the coast. Just out to sea are three or four little islets and beyond, the large looming presence of Nusa Penida, and the delightful Nusa Lembongan, just an hour’s boat ride away.

Romantic places there are aplenty. The well groomed Alam Asmara comes with cable TV, room service, good food and a hideaway feeling when you are ensconced in your room. Next door D’Tunjung has bungalows that look out to the pool and a wider sea frontage. Ashyana will suit budget romantics while the delightful Villa Sassoon provides you with your own private villa and a small pool.

If you want a more high end experience, try the Alila in Manggis, where you can enjoy some of the best sunsets in the east. Sunsets? Don’t ask but it happens right outside their beach bar!.

For a more Balinese experience, try the scenic Tirta Ayu which is about thirty minutes away in Tirthgangga. Looking out over the old Royal Bathing pools of the Rajah of the Karengasem Kingdom, it will offer an insight into the life of the Bali Royals. This beautiful area is replete with rice fields and mountains and is one of Bali’s most scenic areas.

UbudLife 73

While night life is a little limited except for a great dinner, day time activities abound, but food comes first.

Dining For such a small place, Candidasa has a huge variety of dining options. Rendezvous at Alam Asmara sits right over the sea, so the crashing waves set quite the mood.

Vincent’s may not have the waves, but they do have some of the best food along the East Coast and once or twice monthly there is live jazz. Their garden area is very quiet and when lit with candles and the glow of oil lamps makes for a romantic interlude. First a drink in their jazz styled bar then head into the garden. Food is sophisticated, well presented and delicious.

Amerta is a little out of town but is a favourite for their well priced steaks and another sea view. Their cocktails are also very affordable.

Other fun 1) Cooking Schools – Ashyana is fun and casual, while Bali Asli (a beautiful place where authentic Bali meets a western chef). Learn about traditional Balinese cooking while enjoying a fabulous view over the mountains.

2) If you want to enjoy the sea close up, charter a traditional fishing boat and explore the nearby islands. You can snorkel around the larger one while the smaller ones offer some fine diving. Arise early for a sunrise sail and return back in time for a hearty breakfast.

Beyond Candi at Pasir Putih A day relaxing in a crescent bay with pure white sand is easy to organize to Pasir Putih (white beach). While no longer a Virgin Beach it is still a popular getaway. Grab a beach lounge or two, and recline under a big shady umbrella while you watch the waves. For lunch you can 74 UbudLife

dig your toes into white sand while you dine on fresh grilled fish and a cold beer at one of the local warungs. Top it off with an after lunch massage-one of the beach masseurs will get you feeling too relaxed to move!

On the way to Pasir Putih Beach, stop at the top of the hill for a drive by blessing from one of the girls who attend to passing cars. It is a definite feel good moment and you will recognize the spot by the dozens of monkeys in the area.

Tenganan-the Bali Aga Village This traditional Bali Aga village is a photographer’s paradise and their ceremonies are always well attended. Even when there are no ceremonies it is worth a visit and be sure to take in the array of textiles and handicrafts in the stalls and shops just outside the village walls.

The walled village brings you to another world, where life is more simple and the community is strong.

Candidasa and the beautiful surrounding hinterland is full of surprises so give yourself time to enjoy it, and get into the real Bali. Or just sit by a pool. It’s all good.

...

UbudLife 75

6TH EDITION JUN-AUG 2014

For further information and advertising bookings: PERSADA MEDIA PUBLISHING - BALI P: [0361] 844 7982 • M: 081 139 4755 E: putu@persadamediapublishing.com

From tuban to tulamben! we reach across the island - everywhere in bali! make your advertising dollar go further and be seen on our new big Bali Map!

BALIFREEMAP

6TH EDITION MAR-MAY 2014

For further information and advertising bookings: PERSADA MEDIA PUBLISHING - BALI P: [0361] 844 7982 • M: 081 139 4755 E: putu@persadamediapublishing.com

from tuban to tulamben! we reach across the island - everywhere in bali! make your advertising dollar go further and be seen on our new big Bali Map!

BALIFREEMAP

BALI’S LAKE DISTRICT by charlie cambell • images gsb

T

he Balinese people believe that their beautiful island is a gift from the gods and for this they give thanks, every day, with millions of offerings in the form of tiny woven palm frond trays, lined with banana leaf and containing a symbolic assortment of rice, flower petals and incense. The offerings are known as ‘canang’, and the flower most commonly used and cultivated specifically for this purpose, is the blue hydrangea.

OUT OF TOWN

Hydrangeas, or ‘pacah seribu’, are grown mainly in the mountainous regions of Bali. A visit, therefore, to the fertile volcanic ridge near Bedugul will reveal boundless fields of the sapphire-tinged flowers stretching infinitely towards the shimmering sea - a locally nurtured crop that fulfills the demand of a sacred industry.

A visit to this lovely part of the island will also reaffirm why the Balinese express their gratitude with so much pride…

Set within the crater walls of an extinct volcano in Bali’s Tabanan Regency, is the small friendly market town and lakeside resort of Bedugul, heralded by a statue of a corn-on-the cob. Next to this giant sweetcorn is the access road to the Kebun Raya Eka Karya, the Bali Botanical Garden. A cool, shady park covering 157.5 hectares of tropical rainforest on the slopes of Gunung Pohon (tree mountain) with over 2000 species of plants, including 650 different species of tree and nearly 500 varieties of wild and cultivated orchids. The adjacent daily market, Bukit Mungsu, is busy, vibrant and colourful. Nowadays it is caters largely for visitors, selling handicrafts and souvenirs. But it also offers a tempting and diverse collection of locally grown fruit, vegetables, spices and plants, including orchids.

80 UbudLife

Indeed, Bedugul is a very well-known destination on the tourist map and lies alongside the shores of the picturesque, alpine reminiscent, Lake Bratan with its mystical temple that almost appears to float upon the water. You’ll find images of this temple, often shrouded in mist, on every postcard rack in Kuta. In contrast, the recreation park on the southern shores offers parasailing, speedboat rental, jet skiing and water skiing. There is also a spectacular golf course located in this area, the Bali Handara Kosaido Country Club, its entrance marked by a palatial split-gate. Voted one of the world’s fifty most beautiful golf courses, it is a masterpiece of natural splendour with a dramatic backdrop of towering mountains, pristine forest, and the calm waters of yet another lake.

Yes, this is the Lake District of Bali, and it is the peaceful Lakes Buyan and Tamblingan, slightly off the beaten track and less frequently visited that present us with a real flavour of the undisturbed, rural Bali.

After passing through Bedugul, the main road climbs up a long, steep winding hill, over the north walls of the crater. Here you’ll see gregarious grey monkeys frolicking at the roadside. Turning west, away from the main road into the Buleleng Regency, towards Gobleg and

Banyuatis, the scenic route follows the rim of the ancient caldera and overlooks the northern shores of the two adjoining lakes. This bountiful area is where you will find the blue hydrangea fields. It is also an abundant food forest yielding vanilla, banana, papaya, jackfruit, oranges, coffee and cloves, and you will see local people raking and sifting their coffee beans in courtyards beside the road. The refreshing temperature at this high altitude is an average of ten degrees below the coastal regions of Bali and the views are magnificent, extending across cobalt water towards dense forest and angular hills.

For a close to nature experience, you can trek through the tropical, almost primeval, rainforest that borders the lakes. Beside the main road, on the shoulder of land between the two lakes is a temple, and adjacent to this is a meandering flight of steps leading down into the forest.

Hidden temples lie in clearings within the trees, revered places where the Balinese pay, yet more, homage to their gods. The pathways through the forest are narrow and the undergrowth is around two metres high but, in the dry season, it is not difficult to negotiate the route. Moss encrusted trees soar towards the sky, sheets of tattered lichen hang draped around their branches, and strangle figs embrace their hosts. The jungle, however, is not a dark place; shafts of bright sunlight penetrate the glades, staghorn ferns rest in soft cradles, butterflies flutter between flowering creepers, and exotic blooms break through the forest floor. The area is abundant in bird life and popular with birdwatchers. You may

spot babblers, woodpeckers, ground thrushes and malkohas, if not you will most certainly hear them. When you stop to listen to it, the sound of the birdsong is enchanting; it will delight and captivate you.

The pathways will lead you to a clearing beside Lake Tamblingan, next to Pura Tahun, a temple with an eleven-roofed ‘meru’. Motorboats and water sports are forbidden on both of these lakes, the natural spring that feeds them provides water for drinking and the lakes are also a rich source of fish – evident by curious wooden, offshore fishing platforms. On the opposite side of the lake is the tiny village of Munduk Tamblingan where the local people also make their living from rearing cattle on the lotus that grows in the shallow water. Here you will find Pura Gubug, the Farmers’ Temple, dedicated to the lake goddess.

Close to Lake Tamblingan, set between orange groves, tobacco fields and hedges of pink bougainvillea, is the pretty village of Munduk where the hilltop restaurant of Ngiring Ngewedang offers freshly harvested coffee and a breathtaking vista of palm trees, deep valleys, jungle and mountains. Two kilometres further down the road, a short track lined with sweet scented clove trees leads to a mighty waterfall.

This is an alluring place where you can bathe and absorb the invigorating energy emanating from the fierce cascading water. The very essence of nature, in the physical and spiritual heart of rural Bali.

...

UbudLife 81

next issue image ayu sekar

Kool in Kintamani Spas spas spas We visit Ayusha Wellness Coffee class - learning about coffee Help in the hills - cashews in Karengasam

RESTAURANTS Bebek Tepi Sawah Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Ubud Phone: 0361 970388 www.bebektepisawahvillas.com

ACCOMMODATION Alam Ubud Villa Desa Kendran, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 8790999 www.alamubudvilla.com Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Gunung Merta Bungalow Jl. Andong, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975463 Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Gotama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Bollero Bar & Resto Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972872 www.bollerobali.com Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com CP Tapas Club CP Lounge CP Royal Steakhouse Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 Coffee Copper Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 978631 www.coffee-copper.com Dolce Arancia Restaurant Jl. Gotama 17, Ubud Phone: 0361 7802381 www.dolcearancia.com Gedong Sisi Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 977276 www.gedongsisi.com Down To Earth Jl. Gotama, Ubud Phone: 0361 7835545

Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Goa Gajah, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com

Indian Delites Jl. Campuhan Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 7444222 www.baliindianfood.com

Terrace Abing Resort Banjar Kebon, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 980970 www.abingterrace.com

Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com

Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168

Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 NOMAD Jl. Raya Ubud 35, Ubud Phone: 0361 977169 www.nomad-bali.com Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud www.kebunbistro.com KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 Sawah Indah Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Ubud Phone: 0361 7858080 www.sawahindah.com Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Terracotta Restaurant Jl. Raya Lungsiakan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8989700 Trattoria Cucina Italiana Jl. Raya Sangingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 977544, 977449 Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 Warung Alami Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Phone: 081 23913754 Warung Merta Sari Jl. Uma Suke Wayah, Ubud Phone: 0361 2021892 Warung Perancis Jl. Cok Rai 77, Teges, Mas, Ubud Phone: 0361 978109 White Box Jl. Raya Andong, Ubud Phone: 0361 979059 www.whiteboxbali.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 Cafe Havana Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972973 www.cafehavanabali.com UbudLife 83

SPAS Aura Theraphy Spa Ubud Aura Retreat Center Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com Ayusha Wellness Jl. Penestanan Kelod, Ubud Phone: 0361 975578 www.ayushawellness.com Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739

SHOPS Goddess On The Go Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976084 www.goddessonthego.net

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 977561

Sari Api Gallery Contemporary Handmade Ceramic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 082 3831 5697

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush

Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

Kayma Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9100017 www.karmaspaubud.com

Toko Bead Jl. Hanoman 22 Padangtegal, Ubud Phone: 0361 7491770 www.facebook.com/tokobead

Milano Salon Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 prs_milano@yahoo.com

Mani Silver Jewellry Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 5532047

Modena Day Spa & Salon Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 970724 www.modenadayspa.com

YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 7801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 08193635067 rsvp@ubudSkinORGANIC.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Gotama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com Ubud Wellness Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970493 www.ubudwellness-balispa.com Putri Bali Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 7801841

84 UbudLife

GALLERIES

Tanah Tho Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh, Ubud Phone: 0361 981482

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

http://asterisk-shop.com

ARTISTS Pandi [Painter] Jl. Ume Subak Sok Wayah, Ubud Mobile: 081 338389169 Wayan Suarmadi [Painter] Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 977824 | Mobile: 081 23924649 www.intuitiveflow.com

USEFUL NUMBERS

SPORT/RECREATION

Ambulance

Air Bali Helicopter Benoa Harbor, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 767466 www.airbali.com

Airport Authority

Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.co

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com Bali Catering Service Jl. Tirta Gangga, Karangasem Phone: 0363 22503, 21425 www.balicateringservices.com Crazy Kangaroo Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41996 Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.le48bali.com Puri Wirata Dive Resort and Spa Jl. Raya Bunutan, Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23523 www.puriwirata.com

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office

EAST BALI SECTION

Search and Rescue Tirta Ayu Hotel & Restaurant Jl.Tirta Gangga, Karangasem Phone: 0363 22503 www.hoteltirtagangga.com

118 751011

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Villarossa Candidasa Jl.Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42062 www.villarossa.org Villa Sasoon Jl. Puri Bagus Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41511 www.villasasoon.com Watergarden Hotel Restaurant & Spa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41540 www.watergardenhotel.com

MUSEUMS

CONSULATES Australia

241118

ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502

French

285485

Germany

288535

Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Switzerland

751735

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605 UbudLife 85

LAST WORD

Static in Senses Mark Ulyseas

The tamarind tastes sweet and sour as it sticks to the palate, while my tongue plays a game of touch and go...the tingling sensation running through the subterranean nether regions.

Life is, in a strange sort of way, a blissful mix of ignorance and searing pain of regret with touches of ethereal joy. At the end of every artificial year recollections come thick and fast with sorrows draped in great expectations for the coming new year.

And when another year begins to rise over the mount of Venus, we become drunk on the ecstasy of want, of the need to possess beyond reason.

This temporarily satiates the senses. But like love, nothing lasts forever. A new year model will soon be on the market enticing the gullible for another roll in the hay. Ride or be ridden is the head bangers’ anthem.

From the sixth sense to the sick sense we gyrate to the tune of our warped wisdom. Time appears to be of our own making. Second hand knowledge, hand-me-downs and glib gibberish makes for a synthetic flow that infects all who bathe in a rapacious paradise with its side kick the water of life.

Inflammation of the soul comes along in due course to remind us of the excess of excess and the pointlessness of existing in a vacuous sphere.

A hiccup here, a burp there and an emptiness craving for another shot in the dark becomes integral to our everyday living.

All this happens in the first flush of a new year.

And as the year twists and turns like a

kaleidoscope, shapes and colours changing to our whims and fancies, we become stale like bread left on a table in an abandoned home with rats gnawing away at the mouldy crust.

When hindsight becomes foresight and we begin to genuflect before the vastness of the Universe in an effort to mend our ways the year ends and another comes along like a bitch in heat... The cycle of incongruities starts all over again.

Nothing is what it seems. And what it seems is nothing.

Peace, Love and Little Cakes from the paradox in paradise Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

...

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

UbudLife 86