Ubud Life 19th Edition by Ubud Life Magz

UbudLife NO. 19 • JUNE - AUGUST 2014

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

BALI KITE FESTIVAL free

WAYAN UPADANA THE HERONS OF PETULU THE OTHER WORLD OF KINTAMANI THE KAMPUNG, AMED UBUD MARKET

Ibu Rai, as she was well known to many travelers in the 60’s, was born 1925. She sold food and her “Warung” became quite famous, even travel books recommended it as place to find safe and good quality food for foreigners. Her son, Dewa Gede, opened a restaurant in 1986 at family land and as a tribute to his mother courage and enterprise, called it Ibu Rai Restaurant. He carries on his mother’s. Our restaurant is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavors using the best and freshest ingredients. All are carefully presented and with friendly service. “Hope you enjoy our food with taste of Asian Spices”.

72 Monkey Forest Street Ubud Bali | +62 361 973472 restaurant@iburai.com | www.iburai.com

EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu I was sitting with a friend from Singapore one night and she remarked “Ubud is a lifestyle!” Well what an interesting concept. But it is true. Lifestyle is exactly what Ubud is about which is why it is attracting so many people to visit, to live, to retire here. It has become a centre for westerners concerned with life in al its myriad forms. While some come just to look, others come to stay, to enjoy the Ubud experience, to heal ( Ubud after all is derived from the Sanskrit word for medicine), to learn yoga, to learn how to teach yoga, to distress, to detox, and to take time off to make life changes. The face of this delightful mountain town has changed radically over the past ten years. Simple little hole in the walls shops have become glassed in galleries, the rice fields ( sawah) have shrunk, hiding behind new hotels, guests houses, restaurants and healing centres. Through it all, the Balinese continue their extraordinary lives, with rounds of moon related ceremonies and celebrations, rites of passage, weddings and passings on into the next realm. Almost every facet of life is celebrated communally, and with great vigour, helping to keep the community strong. If it is raw food you want, a cappucino, raw chocolate, excellent Italian fare, or food from myriad nations, you will find it all here. Detox? Juice fast? Tantric retreat? Energy healing? Sitting by a pool in a luxury hotel enjoying the divine views? It is all here and it is no wonder that Ubud has won awards for the best place to live in Asia. Enjoy and do try to make the most of your stay whether it is a day, a month, a year or a lifetime.! Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om The Editor

Cover photo GSB Collection These beautiful dragon is part of a Dragon Kites that are often sold to tourists but they alsoplay an important part in the annual kite festival held near Sanur from 13-15 July 2014 it is a must see on Balinese event calendar. Come! Enjoy!

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance Komang Susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contributors richard horstman mark ulyseas jean couteau chef simon ayu sekar jenny b ibu kat lisa publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) kuta permai blok II no. 23, tuban bypass ngurah rai, kuta - bali 80361 p: 0361 752691, f: 0361 764360 e: info@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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BALI’S POWERFUL BARONG MASK

THE HERONS OF PETULU

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AT THE UBUD MARKET

WAYAN UPADANA

THE OTHER WORLD OF KINTAMANI

PIZZA HUNT

THE KAMPUNG AMED

njoy your beautiful scenery during your stay here. Large and luxurious yoga space, room with very romantic view, open bathroom, garden and lush garden, stunning rice terrace, and infinite swimming pool. Great activities such as: yoga retreat, rice terrace trekking, jungle trekking, bird watching, holy bathing, sight seeing in near traditional village will give you unforgettable experiences. We also provide you with excellent raw food, vegan food, or normal food. You can order in advance any dishes and we will make your lunch or dinner experience great.

Br. Kebon, Tegallalang, Gianyar, Bali - Indonesia | Phone: +62 361 980 970 | Fax: +62 361 980 969 Email: abingterrace@gmail.com | Website; www.abingterrace.com

BALI’S POWERFUL

BARONG MASKS by ib kat • images jill alexander

erformance and sacral masks play an integral role in Bali’s ceremonies and rituals. “Masks are powerful receptacles of wandering spirits; they represent witches, gods, animals and people,” says Judy Slattum, who produced the only scholarly book yet to be published about Balinese masks in 1992. “Masks are objects of deep power and mystical significance.” Most mask carvers make ‘art shop’ or commercial masks. To make sacred masks however, a carver must undergo a purification ceremony and learn special rituals. Only a few (usually high caste) carvers are permitted to undertake the creation of the sacred Barong and Rangda/Durga masks. Although there are several significant masks used in Balinese rituals the most important ones are Barong and Durga/Rangda. Always together, they represent Bali’s fundamental duality: masculine/feminine energies, harmony and balance, good versus evil. Sacred masks are used during Calonarang dance with the widow witch as the main character, or Durga, or Shiva manifesting anger. So this same mask may represent three or more different characters . The Barong is associated with the animistic world and represents the king of the forest; there is no equivalent in India. The most common Barong is the Barong Ket, but there are also boar, tiger, cow and (rarely) deer Barongs. He appears in several dances, but 12 UbudLife

his chief function is to patrol the village on certain auspicious occasions, asserting his power. Not all villages have Barong and Durga masks. Sometimes a villager will go into a spontaneous trance and be ‘entered’ by a spirit. People pay very close attention to the information transmitted by the spirit through the person in trance, carefully writing it down. If the spirit says that the village needs a Barong, then a committee will approach a master carver to discuss the order and ask where they can obtain the correct wood. It’s no small matter for a village to order a Barong and a Rangda. A medium quality mask will cost about 60 million rupiah and a top quality one more than twice that, reflecting the amount of gold leaf that’s applied to the mask. But if the spirit demands it, the village must raise the funds. A committee goes to the village where the correct type of tree grows to ask permission to use the wood, and pay for a ceremony in which the priest makes a token cut in the wood, after which a piece of wood is removed

CULTURE

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and blessed by a priest on arrival. The wood will season for six months before the priest names an auspicious day for the carving to begin. When working on the mask, the carver wears pakaian adat (Balinese traditional dress) and is very careful not to cut himself and pollute the wood with blood. Carving a mask takes about a month, and the elaborate costume that accompanies it may take another two. The finished mask requires a small purification ceremony because the wood has been polluted by being on the ground and held between the carver’s feet.

When the mask is ready it’s taken to the village’s Pura Dalem temple. The mask is not yet sacred. A pasupati ceremony, held on an auspicious full or dark moon night, is held to invite the spirit to enter the mask. It’s important for the people of the village to witness the spirit inhabiting the mask, but many women are afraid to attend this powerful ritual. In the middle of the cemetery the masks are set on human skulls, and the priests and priestesses conduct rituals to invite in the 14 UbudLife

spirit. Judy’s husband Surya, who’s witnessed this phenomena a dozen times, described it to me. “A solid ball of flame flies from the temple into the mask, which glows. The priests and priestesses are possessed by the spirit of the mask and begin to howl -- sometimes the onlookers are possessed as well. The priests don the masks and dance them for the first time in trance. The energy is amazing, very intense. Then the masks lead a procession of villagers to the temple, where the masks will live.” Once the spirit has entered it, the mask becomes extremely powerful. It’s wrapped in white cloth and stored in the Pura Dalem, only leaving it for a ceremony or ritual. It can only be touched by a priest or priestess; when a performer needs to wear the mask, it’s placed on him by a priest, the actor does not touch it. Purified masks used in other mask dances are never displayed on walls, but stored in fabric bags in the village or family temple. These sacred masks are intense labours of devotion, their glossy surfaces receiving at least 40 coats of paint, with meticulous sanding between each. The paint used on a sacred mask must be natural and organic, and is painstakingly prepared daily with calcified pig bones, plant pigments, clay and carbon. They are decorated with gold leaf, horse hair, jewels, Chinese coins, boar tusks and mirrors. Because they are integral to Bali’s living religion, the ritual art of mask making continues to thrive in Bali although it is fading in other cultures. The powerful masks continue to protect the people of Bali, and in turn are deeply honoured by them.

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Judy’s book ‘Masks of Bali’ is available in Periplus and Ganesha Bookstores.

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IN UBUD

AT the Ubud Market a plea for posterity

The old stall that sold Ubud’s best Ayam Betutu has disappeared along with the recent demolition of much of what made Ubud’s market special. People would roll up quietly, as if going to church, and sit waiting passively for their dish to be served. Rumour has it they have moved to a new place but a little more detective work needs to be done!

s the clock strikes nine, the sound of the shutters rolling up at Ubud Market marks the beginning of another day. Clothes and artifacts, plates and tee shirts are brought out to for display. But by nine, the day is almost done for all the villagers who have been there since the early hours of the morning.

The market has two lives - a semi schizoid life that starts way before dawn when the produce market creaks open to supply most of the Balinese and a few savvy foreigners with their vegetables, meat, and spices. It starts before light and by six it is crammed. Wayan the babi guling seller doles up portions of her immaculate dish – served the Balinese way, replete with fragrant spices and a piquant sambal.

Fresh, newly harvested vegetables, chickens, pieces of pork, delicious boiled fish from Kusamba or Lebih Beach (that just needs to be taken home and fried to make a satisfying addition to a plate of rice and vegetables) can all be found here. Kitchen utensils and things for the home, plastic bags buckets brooms and itinerant hawkers all portray a microcosm of Balinese daily life. Sit on the bench in front of Wayans Babi guling stall and enjoy the passing parade while sipping on a glass of steaming Balinese coffee! As the slanting sun’s rays move quickly to the vertical and the morning cool disperses into the heat of the day, the character changes. By nine the crowd has thinned, and the cooking school groups appear – long crocodiles of folk clutching their cameras, as they are regaled with the intricacies of Balinese spices and other exotic forms they don’t find n their home towns. It is fun to watch the changing tides. UbudLife 21

By nine the crowd has thinned, and the cooking school groups appear – long crocodiles of folk clutching their cameras, as they are regaled with the intricacies of Balinese spices and other exotic forms they don’t find n their home towns. It is fun to watch the changing tides. So as the shutters of the new, sadly charmless section opens, and vendors are looking for their first sale, prices are good. Buy some thing, get

the bargain of the day and add to their “pelaris, pelaris,” as they whack their wares with their first earned cash! I guess it means something like “good luck” but its always fun. Enjoy the shopping and one can only hope that the gorgeous, smelly, colourful, and full of life sections of this market live to last a few more years.

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happenings around ubud After the mega production of the opening with all its fanfare and brouhaha, the festival settles in to a series of performances, some of which are really worth seeing. Fusions, cross cultural performances can be particularly exciting, as can some of the very authentic traditional dance and gamelan shows. Other exhibitions of gold and silver, traditional textiles, handicrafts and food stalls will all attend the area of the festival to make it into a major cultural show! Don’t miss it! www.baliartsfestival.com

Bali Arts Festival 2014 For over thirty - five years Bali’s grand Arts Festival in Denpasar has been thrilling people with its displays of everything fabulous about Bali. The island is scoured to find the best dance troupes, the best gamelan orchestras, and the most innovative new performances from the most talented choreographers. The Balinese performers will also be joined by other national and international cultural performers.

Localista

Starting on 14th June, until 14th July this month long celebration of the arts features performances of dance, drama, and dramatic dance in and around Puputan Square on the northern limits of Denpasar.

That popular little coffeteria on Jl Suweta has moved. It is a month of moves it seems. Now they are located in their bright new, air conditioned palace across the street.

This year, students and lecturers from Denpasar’s Indonesian Arts Institute (ISI) Denpasar will be performing at the opening on June 14, with a rendition of “Bali Dwipa”.

Sit outside and watch the street while you enjoy a salad, or sit inside and appreciate Rio’s gorgeous photos in airconditioned comfort. Cup cakes and cappuccino anyone?

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Title: “Fishing” By I Wayan Suarmadi Size: 99cm x 198cm | Media: sand and acrylic on canvas | Year: 2014

High as a Kite at the Bali Kite Festival on July, 2014 Every year as the winds blow strong from the East, the kites start to rise up, covering the skies with phantasmorgorical shapes Goblins, vampires and all kinds of scarey monsters compete in the non traditional category. You may also see a flying train, or even a green goblin. It is of course, heaven on earth for children of all ages.

you are lucky enough to be in Bali. Nothing will really quite prepare you for the visual extravaganza. Please check the date on the internet closer to the time as dates can change. Bali Kite Fest 26-28th July T: 081238225508 he comes to Ubud several times a week.

To make the most of the big winds, several kite festivals are held in the Sanur area. Huge crowds, amazing kites and serious competition from the attending banjars make it a day to remember! The biggest festival is a two day event held in Padanggalak, on the beach area just north of Sanur. Huge kites, the buzzing of humming kites, speeches, banjars, folks dressed in traditional gear, gamelan orchestras accompany the teams, some of which take the show very seriously. After all their very reputations as kite people are at stake. While the festival runs for three days, at least a one day visit is almost essential if

Trattoria Has moved to a new location. So donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t get nervous if you head to Sanggingan and find it gone! If you are dreaming of some great Italian pizza, or a plate of fresh pasta and some innovative salads, You can head to Nyuh Kuning to their cosy new restaurant just past the football field on the road to the Monkey Forest. This is a much smaller venue than the big one they had in Sanggingan and it is almost like a local eatery, though with a quality of food that is difficult to find outside of Italy. The wine list is smaller than the old venue, but you will be sure to find something to tickle your palate or just stick to the sublime San Pelligrino that always does you good! Trattoria â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Jl Raya Nyuh Kuning on the road to the Monkey Forest. Drop in and pick up a menu as they also deliver!

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Bali Sound Healing Collective Moves to Taksu Taksu in central Ubud is now host to Bali’s singular community of sacred musicians and sound therapists. The talented founder, Shervin Boloorian, will also offer private sound therapy sessions there so don’t miss out. Formed in 2012, the collective draws together a truly eclectic group of musicians who hold regular live concerts, meditations and workshops. The Collective has already presented an interesting range of sacred music including didgeridoo and sacred instruments. Authentic ancient Sufi chants touch from Iran and India, touch your very soul. Heartsongs and Mantras, Native American sounds, guttural Tibetan Deep Throat Chants, Elemental Sound Harmonizations, Balinese and Indian Vedic Sounds, Tibetan and Crystal Bowls and much more come together in amazing blendings of sound that are guaranteed to send you to another dimension. Each session is unique and all are relaxing to the point when some attendees fall into deep sleep. The session may include a combination of gentle vocal exercises, conscious movement, a sound meditation journey and a relaxing live music experience. The Sound Healing Collective performs at Taksu every Thursday and Sunday evenings. Taksu Jl Goutama south

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Toro Sushi Yande may not sound like a very Japanese name and well it’s not! But this owner and chef, serves up some of Ubud’s best Japanese cuisine at surprisingly affordable rates. Yande learned his skills in Florida, working at several of their best Japanese restaurants. His last post before returning home, was in downtown Orlando, where movie stars and top players from Orlando Magic – (their top basketball team) were his clientele.

Book Signing At Murni’s Warung That well known icon of Ubud, Murni’s Warung, that has held generations in awe – with its riverside location and beautiful atmosphere will play host to a multi book signing and talks on Sunday 8th June . Located in Campuhan by the bridge, it promises to be a pleasing event for those interested in things Indonesian. Meet the authors of the new releasebook “Indonesia’s Hidden Heritage - Cultural Journeys of Discovery. Everyone welcome. David and Stephanie will present images from their book in a spectacular colour presentation on a big screen with Indonesian music interwoven throughout the visual journey. It is certainly a day for Baliphiles and all those interested in things Indonesian. Come, learn, enjoy. Please join on Sunday afternoon, 8th June. RSVP to Murni’s - Jonathan jonathan@murnis.com 32 UbudLife

When Bar Luna on neighboring Jalan Goutama moved to Casa Luna, Yande took it for his second venue. (the first is in nearby Jl Dewi Sita). With a more visible location, this place too, is hopping happy customers who want their California style sushi rolls at valuefor-money prices. Everyone loves the two for one mojitoes during their 4pm – 7pm Happy Hours. Their menu is huge for such tiny places, but Yande’s kitchen expertise ensures consistently good quality. For newcomers, the sushi – sashimi combo is ideal. Gyozas are always a great starter and any sushi with his fabulous spicy tuna will hit the spot. Their chicken teriyaki is often raved about too! Arrive early as it is hard to make a decision! Best to reserve: 0361970791 Jl Dewi Sita. 0361971832 Jl Goutama restaurant.

Pasar Pasar at Sopa Garden The spacious new Sopa Garden Restaurant and more on the turn off to Nyuh Kuning will soon hold their third Pasar-Pasaran. On 14th and 15th June 2014, their garden will swarm with guests enjoying myriad activities. On 14th there will be our â&#x20AC;&#x153;Pasar Prakaryaâ&#x20AC;? craft workshops and they invite all crafters from Bali, Bandung, Jogja and Jakarta to join us. The Pasar Pasaran market will run from 10am-3pm on the 15th. This event is really good for you to promote your products and services. Health vendors, mediators, yoga teaches and all kinds of other holistic folk will be there! We expect about 200 people to come. Come along and bring your friends. Entrance is free! https://www.facebook.com/kerdus.ubud.5

Lake Buyan Festival Lake Buyan is having a party. Located on the northern side of the volcanic Mt Bedugul, it is one of the trilogy of lakes that lie by the mountain. Tamblingan and Lake Bratan are the other two more famous relatives. From 20th til the 22rd of June this lake area will come alive in a festival created to improve the relationship between Agriculture and tourism. While it seems to be aimed mostly for the Balinese, it promises to be a delightful few days. All kinds of agricultural competitions are being organized and knowing the Balinese it will be quirky and colourful. There will be trekking around the lake and a fishing competition on the lake. A competition with giant tops is also something rarely seen. Exhibitions and lots of culinary fare will keep the crowds happy. Parades and dance performances will add to the festive atmosphere. Bull races are also on the cards! The main venue is the courtyard of Ulun Danu Buyan by the lakeside. Come and enjoy the fun ! For more information contact Bapak Wayan Sugusta: wsugusta@yahoo.co.id

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PILAR BATU GALLERY

Presenting fine art quality of painting and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi ADDRESS: JALAN PENGOSEKAN, UBUD, GIANYAR, BALI | PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE: 62 81 23980044 EMAIL: PILARBATUGALLERY@GMAIL.COM | WWW.PILARBATU.COM

WAYAN UPADANA by richard horstman • images ayu sekar

an you imagine icons of the Balinese culture represented reclining, cheerfully in a bathtub or bowl, drenched in luscious, liquid chocolate? The idea makes the eyebrows rise, and the taste buds stand upright too. These unusual figures, sculptures by Balinese contemporary artist Wayan Upadana are, however, expressed not only to insight our curiosity, yet also in order to make important statements. Under the spotlight in such works is the meeting of two opposing worlds, that of the artist’s traditional culture along with the modern, and according to Upadana, there are critical issues that require swift attention. Art is indeed a mysterious medium, perhaps one of the most misunderstood of all human expressions. Somehow in the process miraculous and unimaginable creations become manifest, often from sources completely unknown. In the case of Wayan Upadana, how does this young artist’s imagination and creative prowess arrive at works so fantastic, yet relevant as well?

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WHO’S WHO “Contemporary art in Bali is still growing,” says Upadana. “Yet to avoid becoming stuck and rehashing ideas, local artists need to pursue new experiences and learning prospects – they need to invest in traveling outside of their island.” In the process of creative development it is essential for young contemporary artists, living within the restraints of their Balinese Hindu culture, to step outside of their communities and be introduced to new artistic landscapes, ideas, people and alternative cultures. Not to mention have the opportunity to access different and higher standards of education. “My love of Balinese traditional art and culture inspired me as a child to draw and paint. I am continually fascinated by the array of creative expressions people are able to invest our energy into. Yet it wasn’t until studying painting in high school that I began to dream of becoming a professional artist,” says Upadana. “In 2000 I saw a big exhibition by Indonesia’s most respected art collective, Sanggar Dewata Indonesia (SDI) in a museum in Bali. This had an enormous impact upon my future visions.” In 2001 Upadana moved from Bali to the dynamic city of Yogyakarta, Central Java, the cultural capital of Indonesia, driven by his dream of becoming an SDI member, and a desire to learn of new cultures. To be a member of SDI Upadana had to study art at the prestigious Yogyakarta ISI, the Indonesian Art Institute.

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What we foreigners may perceive as a mere relocation to the neighboring island of Java is in fact something few Balinese ever consider contemplating. The Balinese culture is very much focused on systems of cooperation between families and the community and offers people enormous social and spiritual security. ISI molds artists of distinction, and somehow the character of their creativity is easily recognizable. Renown for producing some of the most important experimental Balinese artists, spearheaded in the 1970’s by the likes of Gunarsa, Wianta and Erawan, ISI Yogya, for those with the opportunity and the willingness, is a pinnacle, and one of the most desired destinations of Indonesian art education.

support his studies and living costs carving stone sculptures and doing whatever tasks he could to earn money. The “friction” created by the multi cultural fusion of Indonesian ethnic groups unique to Yogyakarta provided fertile grounds for contemplation and congestion of creative ideas. Looking from the outside in, Upadana became increasingly sensitive to the social and environmental changes confronting Bali. He learned to become the observer, and via his art, a critic of his own Balinese culture.

At ISI Yogya, captivated by the exploration of 3 dimensional forms, Upadana studied sculpture, working with various materials including wood, stone, metals and resins. He learned the craft of video art that has become a powerful language of communicating his ideas, and especially important in emphasizing one of his main artistic concepts, that art, just like life is an ongoing process. In many of Upadana’s recent sculptures he utilizes resin, and the manner in which these works are completed often emphasizes melting and flowing liquid forms, cleverly underlining this concept. Living in Yogyakarta presented Upadana with life challenges that helped tostrengthen his character, amongst them working to UbudLife 39

A decade in Yogya has made a definitive impact upon Upadana and helps to explain why he is capable of creating art of such a unique quality. Born 1983 in the small village of Saba, Blahbatuh, Gianyar, this experience for Upadana, who began exhibiting in 2002, has enabled him to achieve notable career results. For example, finalist of the 2011 BaCAA (Bandung Contemporary Art Award) and the “UOB Art Awards – Painting of the Year 2011”, and in 2013 again a finalist at the BaCAA, and finalist of the 2013 Trimata National Art Award, justifiably Upadana is regarded as one of the most promising young artists in Bali today.

The pig is an icon of Balinese culture, yet for Upadana this animal serves as a metaphor for the Balinese people. In works such as his quirky yet comical sketches on paper with water color in his 2013 exhibition “GloBaliasi”, the pig is the embodiment of the dualistic nature of life confronting Balinese youths living between modern and traditional cultures. While in his sculptures featuring pigs, reclining in Balinese ceremonial bowls covered in chocolate, the pig becomes a humorous communicator of critical ideas. What Upadana suggests is that his people are too quick to enjoy the material spoils of globalization without enough consideration to increasing environmental, social and personal impacts and conflicts that money and modern development bring to Bali. 40 UbudLife

During his time in Yogyakarta Upadana formed bonds with fellow art students that led to the birth of the art collective G-5. Consisting of five graduates of ISI Yogya, all born in Gianyar, who resided in the city for 10 years, G-5 has become, arguably, the most exciting group of emerging artists in Bali at the moment. Whether producing art on his own or along with G-5, Upadana’s talent is never far from the national spot light, continually catching the eye of critics, art lovers and importantly, collectors too.

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PIZZA HUNT we hunt down the best pizza

by the team

izza – those big round circles of tastiness are spreading all over Uud. It’s everybody’s favourite Italian food. Whether cooked in a big wood fired oven, cooked out the back in who knows what – or whatever it takes - as long as it comes out steamingly fragrant and delicious! Cheese running meltingly down the sides, tomato paste glistening redly with a crispy crunchy crust – who can resist it. Here we try and test some of Ubud’s best pizza venues. Its all work, work, work, down here in Ubud.

busy, cheap Italian Trattoria it looks welcoming and friendly. Unpretentious. Pizzas are fine, you can have a glass of cheap red, and enjoy the ambience. In fact you could almost imagine yourself to be in Italy!

Pizza Bagus – is one of the first, if not

– A Tuscan setting in the midst of Jl Hanoman, this chatty farmhouse styled eatery is the place for a relaxed lunch or an easy dinner. This charming place induces relaxation and the tables are always filled with conversing folks while they tuck into excellent Mediterranean style food and their delicious thin crust pizzas. Pizza and salad and a glass of specially selected wine. You won’t go wrong.

THE first Italians in town. Here the food is always good, the pizzas delicioso. They even have an air conditioned room popular with computer folk during the steamy daylight hours. The food is satisfying and the pasta is worth a try. Arrabiata, Pesto, Matriciana they are all here. Penne, spaghetti, raviolis, yum! Try their Pizza Bianca – four cheeses and topped with Parma Ham) - its delicious! And with the best deli in town, their prices always surprise you – pleasantly. So you can feel obliged to leave a good tip for the sweet girls who work there. While their wine list embraces less than other places, you can’t beat it for a good simple meal. And don’t forget to top up your cheese supply (and salamis) at their deli before you leave. Oh and they deliver! Pizza Bagus – Jl Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 978520

Mamma Mia!

– On a curvy corner in Pengosekan, between Pizza Bagus and Café Marzono, Mamma Mia looks like a little Italian dinery. Maybe cos Tony the owner is Italian? He is there every night chatting to guests and making sure things are running well. And it seems to have caught the popular imagination. With the atmosphere of a 42 UbudLife

They also deliver. Jl Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 9185056

Kebun

Kebun – 44 Jl Hanoman, Ubud 11.00am – 11.00pm T: 0361 780 3801

Trattoria –

famous all over Bali and beyond, the Ubud version has moved to the neat little suburb of Nyuh Kuning. With a scaled down menu and wine list, it has become a user friendly, neighbourhood eatery, but with the same high quality Italian food. Try their spinach, toasted pine nuts and parmesan salad – it makes a great accompaniment to one of their delicious thin and crispy pizzas. Take your family and enjoy the family Pizzas – as big as a football field. Caprese, Schiacciatina al Rosemarino, Margherita, Diavola, 4 Fromaggia E Ruccola – the list goes on.

PIZZA FIESTA Warung, it is just a three minute walk along a cobbled lane from Ubud’s main street. Il Giardino – Jl Kajeng, Ubud T: 0361 974 271, info@ilgiardino. com

Cucina – Upmarket resort

and spa, Uma has recently opened their own Italian restaurant, Cucina. With a low key, modernista setting, a luxurious lounge bar for pre dinner drinks, and an enticing menu, it goes without saying that their pizzas are amongst the best in town. The classic Margarita with fresh mozzarella and cherry tomatoes is good, or their pork and fennel, but what is surprisingly good is their Spinach with Taleggio, fresh mozzarella and pecorino, which disappeared faster than you can say “mmm great pizza”! Open 12 noon to 3.30pm and dinner from 6.30pm to 10.30pm. T: (0361) 972 448. Jl Raya Sanggingan, opposite Naughty Nuris

Café Marzano

Trattoria – Jl Raya Nyuh Kunning just after the football field on the left. T: 0361 5520110

Il Giardino – a cosy garden ambience

away from the traffic makes Il Giardino a perfect choice for a romantic evening pizza. Coupled with a great bottle of wine, a salad and a garden vista in the grounds where Dutch artist Han Snell once held court around his kingly bar, this is a place you need to try. Their wood fired pizza oven holds pride of place in the garden bar and thin and crispy is the style. Hidden away in Jl Kajeng, opposite Ary’s

– a newish pizzaria overlooking the rice fields on the busy Padang Tegal Road (just follow down Jl Hanoman and keep going) this eatery is decorated with iconic hand made cement tiles. Go to the back of the space and look over the verdant ricefields that used to be all of Pengosekan just a few years ago. They offer other Italian fare and it makes a nice change. Pizzas range from the Mascia with Mozzarella with ricotta and gorgonzola cheeses, eggplant and topped off with Parmesan to Robe with salami, mozzarella, ham, and Italian sausage – substantial. They also deliver. Café Marzano – Jl Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 402 1960 UbudLife 43

kopi luwak by ibu kat

CUT THE CRAP

common palm civet T heor luwak (Paraxorus

Hermaphroditus) is a cute, shy, solitary little animal. Resembling a cross between a dog and a cat, it has a dense, soft coat, short legs and a long tail. Nocturnal by nature, it wanders the forests of Asia in search of fruit, seeds, nectar and small animals to feed on. Once common, the luwak is now a rarity in the wild. It’s now intensively hunted and confined to small cages where it is force-fed coffee berries to produce the artificially rare and expensive kopi luwak.

The kopi luwak story began back in 1991 when former coffee trader Tony Wild brought a single kilogram of it into the UK and introduced it to the Western consumer as a novelty. Wild, currently a coffee consultant and author of Coffee: A Dark History, is now an outspoken critic of the kopi luwak trade. While helping a BBC team investigate civetcoffee farms in Sumatra he witnessed widespread 44 UbudLife

animal abuse and launched a petition and social-media campaign, ‘Kopi Luwak: Cut the Crap,’ urging customers and companies to shun the product. (The BBC documentary can be seen at http://projectluwaksg.wordpress. com/2013/10/31/luwak-guardians-unite) “When I introduced civet coffee to the UK it was a quirky novelty,” said Wild in a September 2013 article in the Guardian. “Now it's overpriced, industrialised, cruel and frequently inauthentic. For the most part, civet coffee is not harvested in the wild in limited quantities but mass produced by animals kept in appalling conditions.” The kopi luwak industry claims the high price tag is justified because only about 500 kilograms is collected in the wild every year. Frankly, that’s a load of luwak poop. There are some ethical suppliers

“We tell farmers to focus on the quality, not the quantity of the product,” Teguh says. “It’s better if they produce little but superior coffee, and don’t have dying civets.” But profit remains the bottom line.

but it’s much easier to capture/buy the civets, keep them in small cages and feed them almost nothing but coffee berries. This practice started in Indonesia but other coffee producing countries were quick to follow. Wild estimates that the global production from Indonesia, India, Vietnam, China and the Philippines is at least 50 tonnes a year, possibly much more. One single Indonesian farm claims to produce 7,000 kg a year from 240 caged civets.

Genuine Indonesian kopi luwak is collected from the droppings of the droppings collected by farm workers. “Being wild, hard to collect, variable in age and quality and very rare, kopi luwak is not a commercially viable crop, just an interesting coffee curiosity,” says Wild. “That's why I bought some. But nowadays, it is practically impossible to find genuine wild kopi luwak -- the only way to guarantee that would be to actually follow a luwak around all night yourself, one experienced coffee trader told me.” An investigation by People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) Asia found fraud to be rife in the kopi luwak industry, with producers labeling coffee from caged civets with a ‘wild sourced’ or similar label. The BBC investigation revealed similar findings. There is probably very little wildsourced kopi luwak around these days. It makes much more financial sense to farm it, and there’s no way of checking.

Teguh Pribadi, founder of the Indonesian Civet Coffee Association, admitted in an interview with TIME magazine that animal cruelty is rampant in the industry. “The luwaks aren’t treated well. Many farmers don’t understand how to keep the animals properly.” The association recommends the civets be kept in spacious cages for no longer than six months. But it’s more cost effective to keep the animals in smaller cages; when they die they are quickly replaced. UbudLife 45

I spoke with a European conservationist who’s helped in animal rescue centres in Bali, Java and Sulawesi. In Bali she visited various so-called ‘eco-tourism’ centres which are often included in cycling tours and other tourist activities. All of them had a few small cages of luwak which visitors are told are for display; the workers claim that most of the kopi luwak is collected in the wild. This is almost certainly untrue. When asked how long the civets are kept in captivity, the workers openly told her they are wild caught and never released. Workers often disturb the sleeping nocturnal animals to feed them coffee cherries for visitors to photograph. They may also be given some fruit in captivity but the bulk of the diet is coffee berries, so malnutrition is inevitable. According to an officer from the TRAFFIC Conservation program, the trade in civets to make kopi luwak may constitute a significant threat to wild civet populations. The animals nest in tree holes and the babies are often collected from the nest before they are weaned; the mortality rate is unknown. “I know there is a big kopi luwak farm and coffee plantation in Lampung but I’ve never heard of or seen any large-scale kopi luwak farming on Bali,” Drh. I Gede Nyoman Bayu Wirayudha, founder and director of the Friends of the National Park Foundation. “Of course, keeping luwak in these conditions does not meet animal welfare standards, especially since almost all of the luwak are wild caught. If businesses are using them commercially they should set up captive breeding programs and domesticate them.” Bayu told me that it made him very sceptical 46 UbudLife

to see a place with one or two civets on display and which is selling a lot of kopi luwak. This suggests that in Bali some of what is being sold to tourists as local kopi luwak is ordinary robusta in a fancy bag. Again, there’s no way of checking. So kopi luwak is a hot potato in Indonesia, setting animal welfare against farmers’ income. Some Indonesians defend the industry, saying that it provides a livelihood for the country’s poor (although, of course, it’s the middlemen who really profit). Ideally, producers would comply with humane treatment standards and begin to breed civets in captivity instead of taking them from the wild. Until then, if you’re craving a cup of kopi luwak, please do your homework and make sure it’s ethically sourced.

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Coffee Copper - Jl Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud, T: 0361 978631

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Spirit of Bali words â&#x20AC;˘ image by ayu sekar

This womanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s smiling face lights up the day as she carries holy waterfrom the sea during a Melasti ceremony at Purnama Beach in Gianyar.

Om Suastiastu

AN INTRODUCTION TO BALINESE RELIGION PART 3 by jean couteau

Here we bring you the third part of Dr Jean Couteau’s history of Balinese religion – the basis of all Balinese life REFORMING HINDUISM Among the elements of the main trunk, the reformed Hinduism of Hindu Dharma now embraces a monotheistic conception of the divine. It has reactivated for this purpose the old name of Sang Hyang Widdhi as the One God. All the other gods, either local or Indian-named are now clearly defined as manifestations (manifestasi) of this One All Powerful Principle. The ancestor’s cult itself is redefined within this framework: one does not automatically reincarnate among his kin, as the local tradition has it, but in a condition dependant on the quality of one’s deeds (karmapala) in one’s past life. With these changes, reformed Hinduism is increasingly doing away with the “polytheistic” ambiguities, (which tarnish its image in the eyes of Moslems and Christians, its main partners on the national stage.

on faith rather than ritual. Whatever changes take place, the unity of the religion is maintained, in all its variety. After all, isn’t the Indonesian national motto - “Bhinneka Tunggal Ika “ or “Different but One” derived from the Sutasoma, an Old-Javanese poem still sacred in Bali.

THE BALINESE CONCEPT OF TRUTH

Another important consequence of this reformation, sociological this time, is the revision of the caste system. The traditional caste system based on descent (wangsa)-with its brahmana, satria, wesia and sudra castes - is now said to be a misinterpretation of the Vedas, according to which one’s real caste (warna) is based on merit and not heritage. Although the debate is still going on, one of the first consequences has been to eliminate all legal and formal status differences between the existing descent groups. Bali is democratizing. This in turn enables other groups, which have never known a caste system, to embrace Hinduism without qualms.

Judaism, Christianity and Islam, i.e. the religions of the Mediterranean world, are all organized around a few principles or dogmas consistent with each other and upheld by a prophetic or messianic revelation, transmitted in a relatively simple set of Holy Scriptures. Each group tends to view itself as the only holder of the truth, creating a chasm between believers and non-believers, chosen ones and heathens. Tolerance, in this context - and when it exists - is based either on the principle of coexistence and separation, as in Islam: “To you your own religion , and to me my own religion” (Koran, 109/6); or on the legal mediation of existing differences, as in “Western”, secular tolerance.

Such as it is viewed by the Council of Hindu Affairs (Parisadha Hindu Dharma), the modern reformation of Hinduism described above entails less an overhaul of the old tradition - either “popular” or “Shiwa-Buddha” , than its adaptation to the needs of a modern, multi-ethnic society, with its higher demands of rationality and its emphasis

Nothing as such exists in Balinese tradition. Instead of being exclusive, tolerance is inclusive. It integrates differences within its own framework. This idea rests on a different conception of the truth. To the Balinese, the truth, although

54 UbudLife

BALINESE RELIGION PART 3 it may exist, is not knowable. This is best formulated in a parable of the text Wrespati Tatwa – “There was a group of blind men,” it says, “who wanted to know what an elephant was like”. After insisting, they managed to get an opportunity to touch the elephant. What each touched, though, was a different part of the elephant. The first one touched the head and mistook it for a jar. The second touched the ear, but thought it to be a fan; the third mistook the tusk for a piece of polished wood; the fourth one mistook the trunk for a snake, the fifth the belly for a mountain, the sixth the tail for an eel, and the last one mistook the elephant’s foot for a drum. In other words, whatever they touched, they continued on their way not knowing anything of the body of the elephant as well as of its shape, its character nor its reaction, because they were blind.” This classic parable, also found in Buddhism, teaches an open brand of skepticism. As human beings, we are blind. Whatever the truth is, and whatever the parts of the truth we experience, we cannot have access to the wholeness of it. We always mistake it for what it is not. Hence the variability of the Holy books: “Eka wakya, bhinna sruti “: The word of God is one, but the scriptures are many.”

BALINESE SYNCRETISM This tolerance finds its primary expression in Balinese religion itself. As seen above, this religion is a blending of indigenous and Indian-derived elements, the first providing most of the ritual aspects and the second the philosophical interpretation. Balinese names of gods thus coexist with Indian ones. The Balinese name for deity, hyang, is used in the title of every god Sang Hyang. As for the All-Encompassing God, the temple priests may call Him by the indigenous name of Sang Hyang Embang (the Void) or Sang Hyang Tuduh (Fate) while the brahmana priest will prefer the Indian-connoted Sang Hyang Parama Siwa or Sang Hyang Wisesa. The Indian side of the tradition is itself the result of the historical blending of Buddhist and Shivaite elements. One of the names given to God is Shiwa-Buddha. It blends the complementary opposites: Shiwa is “violence and action”; Buddha is “compassion and inaction”. There is a system of correspondence

between the gods of Hindu Shivaism and the Dyana Buddhas of Mahayana Buddhism. The emphasis is on their similarity: “The essence of Shiwa and Buddha is the same. They are different while being one, as the truth cannot be two (Jinatma kalawan Siwatma tunggal, bhinneka tunggal ika tan ana dharma mangrwa.) It is this quotation from the Old-Javanese Sutasoma poem which have given its motto to the Indonesian nation, already mentioned above - Bhinneka Tunggal Ika or different but one. There is such a “diffusion” of concepts of God and the godly which is the apparent opposite of the Mediterranean concept where God is the contraction of everything into an Absolute Oneness. This relativism applies to sociological aspects of religion as well. For all practical purposes, religion in Bali is expected to vary according to three principles: desa –( place) kala (time) and patra (circumstance). There are therefore no attempts at religious uniformity. All villages have their own specific traditions which they are particularly proud of. It is the difference between villages and traditions which is the condition of their ultimate unity.

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Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om!

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What’s worse for your health? Eating a sweet, sugary cookie, or guilty thoughts about eating a sweet, sugary cookie? Dieticians and doctors are fairly sure that sugar in excess is not good for you. Tooth decay did not exist amongst native tribes before western civilization took over. Nor did obesity, diabetes, imbalanced cholesterol and the list goes on. We could now continue to debate the effects of the high sugar, low fibre modern western diet. But you’ve probably read these articles. It’s almost getting a bit old, despite its incredible relevance in an age where all these so called ‘chronic’ or ‘lifestyle’ diseases are still on the rise. So let’s try to take a different angle. 56 UbudLife

PALATABLE PLEASURE

Cookies for Health by chef simon • images windia

listen to ourselves, that’s if we even remember who that ‘self’ is. In the unfortunate case that we do get sick we simply throw ourselves at the mercy of a GP or surgeon and scream ‘heal me doctor!’ So what can we do to support our health? Well you’ve probably read these articles as well.

Fact. Chronic diseases are on the rise, predominately in developed nations. Fact. Modern drugs and hospital treatments are to an extent able to deal with the symptoms but struggle to address the exact cause of these diseases. Fact. Preventative medicine is going to be absolutely vital in the future if we are to decrease our dependence on pharmaceutical drugs and professional medical care. How often do we witness people taking a pill just because the doctor ordered it? What does this healing business mean and who going to do the hard work? Is any practitioner able to heal another person in the first place? Or can a doctor, therapist or 3th generation shaman only support another being in their own healing process, at very best? How detached have we become from our own health? Maybe we are just so caught up in this journey of becoming happy, and rich and healthy that we just don’t have time to

Eat your greens. 2.0. New Age style. Cut out wheat unless you shoot straight wheat grass juice shots. Chocolate must now be raw. Gggrrrr. Don’t have a cacao tree out the back of your house? No worries. Find the trendiest inner city café and they are sure to be retailing fine raw chocolate at about $19 a bar. Lasagna for dinner? Sure. Raw! With raw cashew cheese. And raw dessert too. Raw cheesecake. Raw! Long Live Raw! Of course you need to practice yoga, preferably ashtanga, hatha, kundalini but if you are a truly self respecting health hero you go for no less than Bikram yoga. Spend 2 hours of raw stretching and breathing at a body temperature heated room, taking sweating to a whole new level. Don’t worry, your bright green lulu lemon shorts will have a state of the art body juice reservoir build in, designed for the most brutal bikram bender. You meditate, it’s so hot these days, all the famous people do it. Ever tried meditating in the sand dunes so hard that you just levitate your way to the ocean, have all the surfers applaud you? Or do what the real sick people do. Take your work stress up to the point that you are about to burn out, than lock yourself into a super conservative Buddhist monastery UbudLife 57

perfect well being at the top. On the left side is diet and lifestyle which we can improve by choosing greater foods as well as suitable physical exercise. On the right side is mental, emotional and spiritual wellness. The more elusive of the 2, it involves relationships, acceptance of past, trust in the future and a great relationship with the here and now. It’s improved by regular relaxation, spiritual practice and joyful activities. It can be radically changed by deep meditation journeys, holistic counseling and spiritual healing. These and many more aspects of wellness is what people may refer to when they say they are ‘working on themselves’ or ‘working on their stuff’.

for 21 day vippassana ‘holiday’ which involves no talking, booze or sex and a good long, hard stare at your innermost ugliness. Come home like a new person. That’s if you survive it. Sarcasm aside, there’s a common denominator in the above cases. We are trying to find a way to relief the stress caused by our ever busy minds trough using this very busy mind. Of course taking time out to stretch, breath and eating vibrant food must be good for us. But how do we surpass our conditioned beliefs and attitudes about what good health needs to find that place deep in our inner being that is yearning for something special and specific? This catch 22 may be the very reason why people tend to give up so soon after initiating a radical life change. Let’s assume that there are two major categories that people tend to tackle on their journey to greater wellness. Visualize a triangle with 58 UbudLife

It’s common, now more than ever before for people to just be so full, so overwhelmed and so exhausted that they just don’t know where to start. It’s good to know these two sides of the triangle. Trust that by climbing one side, one step at a time, the other side automatically becomes less steep. You may decide to start healing your past, face your fears or quiet your mind to find that all of a sudden you have this spontaneous motivation to go for long walks or drink these intense and nourishing green smoothies. Flow with that. Enjoy the journey because this is what you came here for. This is preventative medicine. Science is showing today what ancient cultures have always known and considered. Thoughts and attitudes create worlds and we as humans are capable to shape our very own reality to whatever extend we allow ourselves. The key may be just in that, allowing.

Simon Jongenotter is a wholefoods chef and energetic healing practitioner. He is in love with life as a permanent resident at Bali Silent Retreat where he finds purpose in bringing together the arts of wholesome cooking and healing..

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Menu choices can be overwhelming, but the clear English descriptions will assist first-timers and connoisseurs venturing away from routine favorites. Whatever the final food decision, most patrons desire a continuous flow of chai tea, something that is as much a part of Indian culture as is a cuppa for the British. Indian Delites still uses a secret family formula of aromatic Indian herbs and spices not found in contemporary cafes with quite broad chai interpretations. Tandoori dishes at both Indian and diversified restaurants are popular these days, but only a genuine tandoor oven with its super high heat produces Authenticity. Must try tandoor dishes include the array of breads with Naan as the perennial favorite. Whether cooked with garlic, butter or plain they are always good. Check out the whole wheat Paratha layered with butter, topped with chili or stuffed with Indian delights.

Indian Delites in Sanggingan by lisa • images ayu sekar

ndian Delites, a cornerstone of Ubud’s ethnic culinary cooking has moved! It’s not lost! From the upper level terrace, enjoy views of the Camphuan Ridge where grazing cows mingle with passing hikers. The hues of green on the steep slopes are mesmerizing any time of day, rain or shine. While located opposite Bintang Supermarket, you won’t find many of their ingredients. Their extensive range of mostly North Indian dishes are imported from Indian spice stores in India, Singapore and Jakarta. This Indian family concern has five busy restaurants in Bali, so authenticity is key. They are also one of the few certified halal kitchens in Ubud, with respect to India’s and Indonesia’s multi-cultural diversity. Their seasoned chefs are sensitive to individual taste buds, so their perfectly seasoned dishes can be ordered from spicey hot to ordinaire.

In contrast to the robust Paratha, try the amazingly thin ‘handkerchief ’ bread called Roomali Roti. The tandoor oven also produces vegetarian, seafood and meat dishes, including perennial favorites such as tikka and kebabs. Can’t decide? Try their dhaba platter, the equivalent of a western mixed grill. Their freshly made paneer, an unsalted white cheese dating back to ancient India, is also prepared masala style in the tandoor. Their south Indian dishes such as the Marsala dosai are always worth exploring. An unusual dessert is Kulfi. It is Indian ice cream, although it is deliciously denser and creamier. The almond and pistachios in their homemade servings rarely fails to please. With so much varied Indian delites, it is best enjoyed dining family style so no one misses out on the myriad taste sensations. For individuals or couples, order the thali made up of small portions of basic items, a style of eating still prevalent throughout Southern Asia. For a quick takeaway follow the newest New York food craze with a kati roll, an original Indian street food of Indian flatbread filled with a choice of spicy stuffings. Ever so satisfyingly easy to eat on the run.

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Indian Delites: (0361) 7444 222 for reservations or deliveries. UbudLife 59

The Herons of Petulu by charlie cambell â&#x20AC;˘ images gsb collection

very day in the late afternoon, a remarkable, natural phenomenon occurs in the tiny village of Petulu (five kilometres north of Ubud), as thousands of white herons fly in to roost for the night.

Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a spectacular sight as the huge flocks of birds arrive in a steady throng, filling the sky, flying in formation, wheeling, drifting, sailing and finally landing in the tall palms and old bunut (fig) trees, where they squabble over prime perches, turning the tree tops white like snow and splattering the roadsides with their droppings. Village tradition dictates that the herons, which are considered

HERITAGE sacred, may not be disturbed while they roost. Only if they fall to earth or become caught in a tree may they be captured and turned into a delectable treat wrapped in a banana leaf. Visitors, meanwhile, can sit at a simple viewing platform beside the rice fields and drink cold Bintang beers or soft drinks while they watch the roosting activities. Such a predictable gathering of these large and beautiful birds is a spectacle not to be missed. In the morning the herons will fly off again in search of food. Three species of herons roost at Petulu: the Little Egrets, the Cattle Egrets and the Javan Pond Herons. They are known collectively by the local people as ‘Kokokan’ – and their

numbers have been estimated to total up to 20,000. The nesting period is usually around October and November and there is a certain order in how these three species build their nests in the trees, with the largest birds at the top and the smallest at the bottom. By February and March the chicks will have become fledglings and have started to fly. The villagers of Petulu believe that the herons are manifestations of the souls of the Balinese who were killed – and buried without due rites – during the anticommunist massacre in Indonesia in 1965/66. In Bali alone, 100,000 people were killed within two weeks. After the atrocities, the surviving residents of Petulu held an elaborate cleansing ceremony in the village as a remembrance for the murdered, and to safeguard the survivors, petitioning for protection and blessings. Less than one month after the ceremony the herons mysteriously arrived in the village for the first time in history, they had never been seen before in Petulu.

The little egrets and the cattle egrets arrived first and the Javan pond herons followed a year later. The villagers considered them as a blessing from God and then held a ceremony of welcome for the birds. During the ceremony, the priest fell into a trance and learned that the herons were there to guard and protect the village and the crops from pests, disease and negative events. At first, the villagers captured some of the herons for food and as breeding stock – but more than 50 people who did so were visited by scary spirits, and therefore quickly released the birds. It is strange that they have only ever occupied the trees on the stretch of road, which leads to the temple – and in front of the houses. They never go behind the houses, 62 UbudLife

an area which in Hindu tradition is reserved for things less sacred or unclean. The villagers of Petulu still pay homage to the birds twice a year on Saniscara Kliwon Landep by holding a special ceremony for them called ‘Memendak Kokokan’ in which they express their gratitude for being trusted as the place that the birds have chosen to live and lay their eggs. The villagers say that since the arrival of the herons, the village has enjoyed prosperity and has become a tourist attraction. There is a post with a ‘Donations Box’ at the entrance to the village for visitors to contribute to its further prosperity. The local people also claim that the birds disappeared from the village not long before the 2002 Bali bombings, and

Cattle Egrets The short, thick-necked Cattle Egret spends most of its time in fields foraging at the feet of grazing cattle, head bobbing with each step, or riding on the backs of the cows to pick at ticks; this stocky white heron has mainly white plumage, a yellow bill and greyish-yellow legs. During the breeding season, adults develop orange-buff plumes on the back, breast and crown. They fly with their necks folded in an S-shape. Javan Pond Herons Most commonly seen and associated with rice fields, the Javan pond heron is identified by its pale, golden yellow and brown head, crest feathers and neck, cinnamon breast, and black back. It flies to roost in groups of twos or threes with slow, short wing beats, and feeds primarily by standing motionless, usually solitary, in a low crouched posture with its head retracted. Getting there:

similar incidents have occurred several other times, suggesting that the disappearance is a portent of something bad. After the 2002 portent, the villagers attempted to â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;callâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; the flock by holding a ritual at the temple and a week later thousands of birds flew back to the village. Little Egrets The Little Egrets are the graceful, white birds of wet rice fields; this small heron has a white body, black legs, yellow feet, and fluffy snowy plumes on its crest and neck during the breeding season. Generally they are solitary and silent birds; however they do make harsh alarm calls if disturbed at their roost sites.

From the traffic lights at the statue in north Peliatan just before the west entrance to Ubud, continue north on the main road to Tegallalang and Tampaksiring, which is lined with hundreds of shops selling woodcarvings, souvenirs, household wares and crafts. After four kilometres, look out for the sign on the left (west) to Petulu, which is about two kilometres, up a gradually rising narrow country road. Alternatively, go north out of Ubud on Jalan Suweta towards Junjungan and the turn off to Petulu is on the other side of the village on the right.

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The birds arrive home between 5pm and sunset.

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Terracota

Ayusha Wellness

Kopi Kat

Sri Ratih Cottages

Warung Merta Sari

Lotus Lane

Yin

Toro Sushi

Dolce Arancia

Toro Sushi

Gedong Sisi

Nomad

Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ar

Milano Spa Mani Silver Down To Earth

Kulkul Bamboo

Ubud Sari Health Resort

Warung Perancis

Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta allery

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Tropical View Cafe Coffee Copper

Sisi

Pilar Batu

Garden Sopa

ISLAND OF BALI

Kafe Topi

Biah-Biah+

Studio Perak

UBUD

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, lies in the heart of Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades. Artists also apply their skills to making attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to view and temples and wonderous sights to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

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ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance legong telek women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

tue

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 5.30 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

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TIPS

pura protocol

tips for how to visit one of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fabulous temples As visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy! The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless. When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful. Women who are menstruating must wait outside. Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo. If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing. Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

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LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk Ja v a Fe rr y to Cekik

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan Sumbersari

Gerokgak

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Antu

Lovina

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Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Tamblin Mun

Subuk

Candikusuma

Pupuan Pujungan M

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Kalibukbu Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Gobl

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

Temple

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Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang Labuhan lalang

Lake

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Cupel Munduk Perancak

Munduk Yehkuning

Batungse

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Sanda Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Manggissari Asahduren

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Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

Banyuning

Pemaron

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Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Pegayaman

Tejakula Les Tegal

Gitgit

Asahpanji Pancasari

Catur Mt. Catur

Tembok Muntidesa

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Wongaya

Angantiga

Seribatu

Taro

Kayubihi

Sebatu

Timpag Wanasari

adeg

Alas Kedaton

ibubiyu

Gubug Kediri

Mengwi

Pandakgede Sempidi

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Mambal

Petak

Petulu

Sidemen Talibeng

Selat

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KLUNGKUNG

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Lem bar (

Lom

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Batuabah

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Manggis Ulakan

Kusamba

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Padangbai A m u k B a n d i da

Batubulan Celuk

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Silayukti Dawan Kamasan Goa Lawah Gelgel

Sidan Tihingan

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Blahkiuh Peliatan Denkayu Abiansemal

Muncan

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Batusari

Blayu

TABANAN

Samsam bitan

Tirta Gangga

Sulahan Singarata

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Bantas

Sangeh

Jemeluk Wall Amed Bunutan Reef Jemeluk Japanese Wreck Bunutan

Abang

Ababi

Menanga Muncan Selat Payangan Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Kuwum Ceking Tembuku Sindu Buruan Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban

Penebel Perean Pitra

Ngis

Culik

Tirta Ayu Hotel & Restaurant

Besakih Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Babahan

PURI WIRATA Dive Resort & Spa Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

y n Ba

Apuan

Tulamben

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

atukaru

T ul a

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Sekardadi

Nungkung

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan Lake Batur

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Mt. Batukaru Pacung 2276 el Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

2096 Lake Buyan Kembangmerta Lake Tamblingan Candi Kuning Lake Bratan Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bayun

Yehketipat

ngan nduk

Julah Bondalem

Bakungan Penginyahan

leg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

50 km

bok

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BEACH-FRONT BLISS AT THE KAMPUNG, AMED

by jenny b • images ayu sekar

70 UbudLife

he freshly caught fish glistened in the early evening shadows. The fisherman beamed as we handed over the money, his white toothed smile breaking the surface of his weather-worn face. In next to no time, the half-dozen ocean-fresh mackerel were sizzling on the barbecue, releasing their aroma to sharpen our appetite for another delicious dinner. Earlier that evening, we had sat entranced as the mirror-calm sea burnished crimson with the setting sun, throwing into silhouette the dhow-like sails of the jukung returning with their evening catch. Snatches of animated chat and kretek smoke drifted ashore with the breeze as the fishermen hauled their outriggers onto the narrow strip of pebble beach beyond our pool. We stirred ourselves from our poolside lethargy to peer into the boat less than a metre away.

SLEEPOVERS “Mau ikan?” he had said, knocking standard take-aways right out of the water. And so another magical day at The Kampung drew to a close. We’ve been coming to Amed for years, drawn by the chilled vibe and calm seas of this string of villages on Bali’s northeastern shore. Over the decade we have seen many changes. Where once we would tire easily of the simple food served at a smattering of warungs, now there are a few smart restaurants serving upscale Balinese food and a menu of international dishes in designer-chic surroundings. The choice of accommodation has grown too, with a few private villas and fancier boutique hotels in Bunutan and beyond, while low-key homestays for budget travelers can be found in the Amed strip, a few kilometres to the north. Outstripping everything in both charm and comfort is The Kampung. Resting right on the beach with 180-degree sea vistas, The Kampung offers a unique experience for visitors to Bali. Though only completed in 2011, it’s very much an old soul. Instead of the ubiquitous white-washed concrete boxes slowly but inexorably eating up the ricefields across the island, the owner has chosen to celebrate Indonesia’s architectural heritage with a collection of antique teakwood homes rescued from Java and Sulawesi and repurposed to create the three-bedroom Kampung Limas and the two-bedroom Kampung Jambi – each with its own beachfront swimming pool. Each bedroom occupies its own joglo. Full of character and soaked in history, their cool teakwood interiors with traditional four-column core offer a soothing respite from the glare of the sun. Oriental carpets and kilims UbudLife 71

72 UbudLife

provide splashes of colour on burnished teakwood floors. Romantic canopied beds draped in four-poster-style mosquito netting promise dream-filled sleep with deep mattresses, plumped up pillows and luxury cotton bed-linen. Each bedroom has its own courtyard bathroom with vocanic rock basin and garden shower, and a breezy sea-facing verandah – perfect for afternoon siestas. On arrival at Kampung Limas, smiling sarong-clad staff ushered us into the fabulous open-sided limasan living pavilion and served us freshly squeezed juice and ice-cold towels while Wayan briefed us on the facilities and we admired the fabulous sea vista. The three comfortably cushioned daybeds saw a lot of supine activity over the next few days, and the solid teakwood table was the focus for convivial meals prepared by the accomplished cook, Made. Bordered by rice fields and the sea, with a backdrop of mountains, The Kampung –which means village in the Indonesian language – offers an authentic slice of unspoilt coastal life. Staying there, we could almost feel part of a rhythm that has little changed over the centuries. We admired the owner’s fascinating collection of antique furniture, artifacts and curios that embellish every room. From the second storey meditation bale we glimpsed farmers tending their padi fields and, rising with the sun, we witnessed the return of Amed’s fishing fleet with their haul of mackerel, mahi mahi and bonito tuna. We snorkeled the calm, crystal-clear waters off the beach and basked on the sun-beds by the free-form pool. Had we the energy, we could have paddled offshore in the Kampung’s sea kayak or peddled the three mountain bikes along the coasthugging lanes – but the lure of a massage on the verandah won us over.

Feeling thoroughly lazy, we only left the comfort and privacy of our ocean home to saunter down the road to Café Harmony. There, the delightful owner and passionate foodie Anis whips up divine Balinese food using produce from her organic garden. Don’t miss her fresh tuna pepes, cooked in banana leaves and served with a quartet of exquisitely flavoured home-cooked sambals. (For western food with a Mediterranean focus, The Grill is a 15-minute walk away.) Life is picture-perfect at The Kampung. The two-bedroom Kampung Jambi, with its Toraja-style alang-alang thatched living pavilion reached by stepping stones across a lotus pond, will appeal to the romantically inclined. Families will relish the facilities of Kampung Lima where two of the bedrooms have additional fourposter daybeds for kids, and there’s a small playground. And both Jambi and Lima can be rented together for a few families or larger groups of a dozen friends. Amed is a two-and-a-half hour drive from Ubud. Once you’re clear of the congested roads around Gianyar and Klungkung, you can either follow the coastal road past Candi Dasa (where stopping for a seafood lunch at Sari Baruna, just west of Goa Lawah has become a family tradition), or head north to Sideman and take the scenic crosscountry route with spectacular views of Gunung Agung. North of Amlapura, the main road is plain sailing (as long as you don’t have the misfortune of crawling behind belching lorries), taking you across several mountain ranges before finally descending to the rice fields that roll right down to the water’s edge. To book The Kampung, visit www. thekampung.com or email info@ thekampung.com.

...

UbudLife 73

7TH EDITION SEP - NOV 2014

For further information and advertising bookings: PERSADA MEDIA PUBLISHING - BALI P: [0361] 844 7982 â&#x20AC;˘ M: 081 139 4755 E: putu@persadamediapublishing.com

From tuban to tulamben! we reach across the island - everywhere in bali! make your advertising dollar go further and be seen on our new big Bali Map!

BALIFREEMAP

the other world of

KINTAMANI by jill alexandre â&#x20AC;˘ images ayu sekar

OUT OF TOWN

Sitting at the top of the world, Kintamani is one of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most iconic destinations. Clear air and amazing views make it a great place to visit whether for a day or a week. An hour from Ubud and a world away, the first inkling you are approaching Kintamani or Batur is the drop in humidity levels. As you drive up the seemingly endless Andong road, lined with shops cargo depots and handicraft factories, the road starts to clear, orange farms and vegetable gardens take their place. The scent of woodsmoke fills the air. Then, right at the top after paying an entrance fee to the world famous geopark, you see it! A vast and magnificent crater. Far below, to one side is the serene lake Batur while smack bang in the centre is the smoking cone of Gunung Batur. This is a sight to awaken the most jaded of senses.

ons ago, this volcano exploded so violently that it left a huge hole that has become the lake and the Batur crater. The whole mountain which was at least as big as Gunung Agung, Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s holiest mountain, has broken off and from a distance, it appears as a half mountain with a serrated edge. This is Kintamani and Batur where the very people are different to those of the lowlands. Many people make it a day trip, stopping for a tourist lunch at one of the many scenic restaurants perching on the calderaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge. Others drive up for a brisk breakfast at the luscious Lakeview Hotel before doing the downhill cycle. While these are fine activities, there is so much more in Kintamani.

Down by the lake are hotels, both small and not so small. Hot springs lure with steaming baths in refreshing mineral saturated waters â&#x20AC;&#x201C; best taken at sunset, when the chill of night air cools while you steam. Once we even had a bath in the rain, with umbrellas to keep us dry while we sat immersed. It was fabulous!

Walks galore can be enjoyed in the cool mountain pine scented air. A particularly nice walk takes you through the pine forests, along the caldera to Mt Abang. It is a mostly easy walk that takes around three hours and very beautiful. Other smaller walks can be enjoyed wherever you see a track. Guides are easy to find. If you drive up alone, guides will materialize even before you reach the peak and if you descend to the lakeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s edge, you will be besieged with willing helpers to take you on the sunrise trek up Mt Batur. Leaving about three am, you arrive at the peak in time to see a magnificent sunrise, and maybe even breakfast on eggs cooked in

the steaming fumeroles. The feeling of being surrounded by an abundant nature, is close to godliness. The Batur culture is also a little different. The Ulun Danau Batur temple holds an important place in the Balinese cosmology and is the second most important temple on the island after Pura Besakih. The extraordinary rituals at the frequent temple ceremonies venerate Ida Betawi Dewi the Goddess of Danau (Lake) Batur. Once it resided by the side of the lake and in 1917, after a huge eruption of the volcano, it miraculously escaped engulfment as the lava flow stopped almost at its doorstep.

After a second eruption in 1926, which almost buried the temple, the banjars decided to move it, Huge piece by piece, to a safer spot at the top of the caldera. Even when there is no ceremony to observe, it is a formidable place, its huge winged gateways standing sentry to the courtyards and temples within. Another important aspect is the Geopark and the newly instigated Geopark Museum, right by the main entrance Gates to Batur. This imposing building is filled with knowledgeable exhibits about volcanoes in general, and specifically Mt Batur. You can increase your knowledge then pop into Lakeview Hotel for a little R&R. A drive down to the back side of the crater, where the lava flows have frozen into fantastical forms can really give you an idea of the force of the volcanic eruptions, and it is easy to imagine the scenario of flowing lava, and general mayhem. Today, trucks are filling the roads to take the volcanic rock away to be

used for gravel and who knows what, but no doubt the powers that be figure that there is so much there, that a few million tonnes wonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t be missed. Sad to see in a natural wonder and one does wonder what will be the outcome. In the meantime, people are gainfully employed as the lava flows slowly erode. PLACES â&#x20AC;&#x201C; apart from the Lakeview Hotel and the scenic tourist restaurants, Ubud visitors will be happy to know that there is a branch of the healthy Sari Organic Restaurant as the owner is a Kintamani girl. Lakeview Hotel has three grades of rooms including a backpacker dorm with their own private living room for the budget minded. It is probably one of the nicest backpacker accommodations around. The other rooms all have balconies looking out over the lake and all modern conveniences. To take breakfast, lunch afternoon tea or dinner looking out across the lake is one of lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s simple pleasures.

...

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â&#x20AC;&#x153;A cozy place to stay & dine right by the beautiful Candidasa Lagoonâ&#x20AC;? Serving French & Indonesian menu - Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner

Jl. Raya Candidasa no.48 (main road) Candidasa 80851 Karangasem - East Bali T: +62 363 41177 E: le48balihotel@gmail.com www.le48bali.com

UbudLife 81

next issue image ayu sekar

Jatiluwih Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Treasured Heritage Klungkung and Goa Gajah Kusamba Fish Fest Tenganan Trekking Exploring Ubud Food

RESTAURANTS Bebek Tepi Sawah Jl. Raya Goa Gajah, Ubud Phone: 0361 970388 www.bebektepisawahvillas.com

ACCOMMODATION Alam Ubud Villa Desa Kendran, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 8790999 www.alamubudvilla.com Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Gunung Merta Bungalow Jl. Andong, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975463 Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Goa Gajah, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com Terrace Abing Resort Banjar Kebon, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 980970 www.abingterrace.com Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 Bollero Bar & Resto Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972872 www.bollerobali.com Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com Coffee Copper Jl. Nyuh Bulan, Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 978631 www.coffee-copper.com Down To Earth Jl. Gotama, Ubud Phone: 0361 7835545 Dolce Arancia Restaurant Jl. Gotama 17, Ubud Phone: 0361 7802381 Gedong Sisi Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 977276 www.gedongsisi.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056 Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud www.kebunbistro.com

KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 Lotus Lane Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 975357 www.lotus-restaurants.com NOMAD Jl. Raya Ubud 35, Ubud Phone: 0361 977169 www.nomad-bali.com Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Kafe Topi Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 Toro Sushi Jl. Goutama No.3, Ubud Phone: 0361 971832 Trattoria Cucina Italiana Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 5520110 Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 Warung Alami Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Phone: 081 23913754 Warung Merta Sari Jl. Uma Suke Wayah, Ubud Phone: 0361 2021892 Warung Perancis Jl. Cok Rai 77, Teges, Mas, Ubud Phone: 0361 978109 White Box Jl. Raya Andong, Ubud Phone: 0361 979059 www.whiteboxbali.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com Cafe Havana Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972973 www.cafehavanabali.com UbudLife 83

SPAS Aura Theraphy Spa Ubud Aura Retreat Center Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com Ayusha Wellness Jl. Penestanan Kelod, Ubud Phone: 0361 975578 www.ayushawellness.com Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush

SHOPS Goddess On The Go Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976084 www.goddessonthego.net

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

KUL-KUL Bamboo Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493547 www.facebook.com/kulkulbamboo.com

Sari Api Gallery Contemporary Handmade Ceramic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 082 3831 5697

Nirmala - Work On Tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 977561

Tanah Tho Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh, Ubud Phone: 0361 981482 www.tanahtho.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Kayma Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9100017 www.karmaspaubud.com

Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

Milano Salon Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 prs_milano@yahoo.com

SISI Jl.Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 www.sisibag.com

Modena Day Spa & Salon Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 970724 www.modenadayspa.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 08193635067 rsvp@ubudSkinORGANIC.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Gotama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com Ubud Wellness Spa Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970493 www.ubudwellness-balispa.com Putri Bali Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 7801841

84 UbudLife

GALLERIES

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 7801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Pandi [Painter] Jl. Ume Subak Sok Wayah, Ubud Mobile: 081 338389169 Wayan Suarmadi [Painter] Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 977824 | Mobile: 081 23924649 www.intuitiveflow.com

USEFUL NUMBERS

SPORT/RECREATION

Ambulance

Air Bali Helicopter Benoa Harbor, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 767466 www.airbali.com

Airport Authority

Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.co SEPEDA BALI Green Adventure Cycling Jl. Nyuh Bojog, Ubud Phone: 0361 978631 www.sepedabali.com

EAST BALI SECTION Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com Bali Catering Service Jl. Tirta Gangga, Karangasem Phone: 0363 22503, 21425 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.le48bali.com Puri Wirata Dive Resort and Spa Jl. Raya Bunutan, Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23523 www.puriwirata.com

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office Search and Rescue Tirta Ayu Hotel & Restaurant Jl.Tirta Gangga, Karangasem Phone: 0363 22503 www.hoteltirtagangga.com

118 751011

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Villarossa Candidasa Jl.Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42062 www.villarossa.org Villa Sasoon Jl. Puri Bagus Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41511 www.villasasoon.com Watergarden Hotel Restaurant & Spa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41540 www.watergardenhotel.com

MUSEUMS

CONSULATES Australia

241118

ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502

French

285485

Germany

288535

Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Switzerland

751735

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605 UbudLife 85

LAST WORD

Indulging Our Passion Mark Ulyseas

Have you caressed a pomme d’amour or sucked on its watery interior? Some believe it to be an aphrodisiac, while others consider it a vegetable. Imagine a fruit that is treated like a vegetable? What a shame. Nature has so much to give us in the form of its seasonal offerings...the succulent water melon...the fleshy mango ...and the love apple all available for those that seek sensual sustenance in order to exist beyond the parameters of the physical world where the river sutra flows, giving life to all that it touches and embraces: Like the childlike feeling of climbing a tree and breaking a guava... the quivering excitement of eating a durian, the pungent aroma permeating the senses and hanging expectantly in the air around while the lascivious tongue wriggles its way around a banana. Or, the utter joy of placing a kinnow wedgie in one’s mouth followed by a burst of citrus juice drowning the taste buds and teasingly stinging the corners of one’s lips. But where is the real passion... pure and unbridled amidst the simplicity of living the dream or nightmare? How does one define this passion that rests outside the sphere of the social contract, a contract that binds us all in cultures that stymie the spirit...the spirit that desperately seeks freedom to express true passion? Does it exist somewhere embedded in the mundanity of each one of us like a dormant seed waiting expectantly for nourishment from the Universe...that spark of madness?

Perhaps there is much truth in what Jack Kerouac has to say, “The only people for me are the mad ones, the ones who are mad to live, mad to talk, mad to be saved, desirous of everything at the same time, the ones who never yawn or say a commonplace thing, but burn, burn, burn, like fabulous yellow roman candles exploding like spiders across the stars and in the middle you see the blue center light pop and everybody goes Awww!” Indulging our passion leads to heaven here on earth and frees us from the suffocating embrace of culture. Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

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Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth. UbudLife 86