UbudLife guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine
SOEMANTRI free
A TOAST TO UBUD’S BEST ROAST THE TRADITIONS OF TEJAKULA MAJESTIC WATER PALACES RIDE THE WAKE
Ibu Rai, as she was well known to many travelers in the 60’s, was born 1925. She sold food and her “Warung” became quite famous, even travel books recommended it as place to find safe and good quality food for foreigners. Her son, Dewa Gede, opened a restaurant in 1986 at family land and as a tribute to his mother courage and enterprise, called it Ibu Rai Restaurant. He carries on his mother’s. Our restaurant is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavors using the best and freshest ingredients. All are carefully presented and with friendly service. “Hope you enjoy our food with taste of Asian Spices”.
72 Monkey Forest Street Ubud Bali | +62 361 973472 restaurant@iburai.com | www.iburai.com
EDITOR’S NOTE
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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu, Sitting in the iconic Warung Ibu Oka across from the Ubud Palace, awaiting an out of town colleague for lunch, I have some precious time to muse. Like the rest of Ubud, this little warung has changed. Once the place where Balinese could go for a great Babi Guling, it has become invaded by appreciate visitors. Gone are the rattan mats and the low tables loaded with basins of fiery sambal. In their place are big squares of white granite flooring and high, square wooden tables and chairs. The cosy atmosphere has somehow gone with the change of decor. But the food! The hordes of Chinese patrons from Jakarta, Surabaya and further afield make me think it ill still be good. Balinese guests are few. The rising prices are excluding all but the richest. Foreign guests, too are fewer, as they are head towards raw lettuce leaves in one of the myriad new age restaurants. It is like a barometer of what is happening in crowded, royal village. The ritzy glass fronted shops, and burgeoning photo galleries and new restaurants reveal Ubud’s never ending gentrification, and new prosperity. Do we really need our foreign destinations to remind us of where we have come from? Don’t we want to revel in the differences and expand our consciousness as we explore different cultures? If everything is the same, everywhere, why not just stay comfortably at home. While Bali’s exotic culture is still strong, it too, is straining under external influences. Yet perhaps the best thing to do, is celebrate the change. Enjoy the Ubud experience before it changes out of all recognition. But one thing never changes and that is the quality of Ibu Oka’s spit roasted pigs. While the spices seem to be less, the quality is great, enjoyable to all of us who can still eat meat. Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om
THE EDITOR
Cover photo by Ayu Sekar Ubud’s Tjampuhan Ridge one of our best beauty spots. As other spots get swallowed up by excessive villa development, this beautiful ridge remains pristine. It is very popular with lovers, walkers, dog owners, romantic teenagers, in fact, everyone who loves nature.
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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.
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DARMI: A VICTIM OF BEAUTY
26
A TOAST TO UBUD’S BEST ROAST
RIDE THE WAKE
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MEGIBUNG
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SOEMANTRI
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THE TRADITIONS OF TEJAKULA, NORTH BALI
happenings around ubud
TALKING TURKEY On Thursday November 26th November people around the world join together to give thanks. This special time, known as Thanksgiving is one of the USA’s nicest traditions and is celebrated by groups of family or friends. Ubud’s Taksu Spa makes it easy for us to celebrate with a special lunch and a dinner. Organic turkeys come roasted with all the trimmings, or cooked Bali style. Lashings of cranberry sauce, potatoes, soups, and salads 12 UbudLife
all served on a long table groaning with goodies. You simply choose what you like and take it to your table. Book with a group of friends or join with another table. Last year due to the great demand, several turkeys were flown first class from the States, just in time to make the dinner! Price is a very reasonable Rp. 280,000 with all the trimmings or Rp.190,000 for the vegetarian option. Other ala carte options are available for small eaters ! Taksu – Jalan Goutama Selatan, Ubud T: 0361 971490, E: reservations@TaksuSpa.com
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Get Cocooned It seems that more folk are recognizing Ubud as the place to open. Award winning health and beauty Spa, Cocoon has opened a branch in Ubud right at the Hanoman end of Jl Monkey Forest. Just a few minutes walk from Coco Supermarket, this little sister spa offers the kind of treatments that help to keep us in good condition. An array of high tech facial beauty treatments awaits. You want to drop a few years off your appearance? Have your face lasered and you can erase lines and wrinkles. They offer fat blasting to remove unwanted fat from stubborn areas that exercise cant reach, as well as lots of better known health treatments, like colon hydrotherapy and Infrared sauna, as well as massage and body wraps. They also offer a series of detox and other packages that are well worth looking into. If you have any interest in health and anti ageing, drop into their cute salon where you can discuss your needs with their resident Dr Josie. While half the world is embracing the art of tattooing, if you find you have made a mistake, you can have it removed here.
Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud –Jalan Monkey Forest No. 8. www.cocoonmedicalspa.com, or E: info@cocoonmedicalspa.com T: 0361 4792863/2 14 UbudLife
SenS Hotel
It looks like Ubud is growing again. There is a new hotel in town. It’s not a resort, although it does have a sweet spa. Basically it is a businesslike hotel, of 91 rooms and 6 suites with meetings and seminars facilities to accommodate up to 300 people. These kind of facilities may just bring another new face to our fast growing village. And what else does it have? A well trained staff who are friendly, efficient and on the ball! Its amazing what good training can do. Best yet, the dining room/coffee shop it is the only cool a/c coffee shop open 24 hours a day! go! enjoy! Heaven on those hot days! And another first, they have excellent Chinese food on the menu right beside international and Indonesian favourites. If you are hankering for a bowl of laksa, fried noodles or Chinese pork ribs, this is the place to head for. Located opposite the Pura Dalem on Jazz Café Street (Jl Sukma), it is an unusual location but it is in walking distance of all of Ubud’s tourist attractions. SenS Hotel & Spa and Conference Ubud Jalan Sukma, Ubud, T: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com
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Bridges It is a tradition in Bridges restaurant to pay very special attention to wine and anything related to it. The restaurant is also home to the DIVINE retail wine shop and bar, offering Ubud’s most extensive wine selection. Bridges hosts regular weekly wine events, such as the wine tasting Masterclass, designed for wine lovers who would like to take it one step further. Guaranteed interesting and guaranteed fun. Come and join Antoine in his Masterclass. Please check the website for more details www.bridgesbali.com/wine-masterclass/
The result is a delectable, healthy and innovative gelato bursting with sweet aroma! Vanilla combines with an interesting bamboo charcoal texture.
BLACK IS BACK
Gelato Secrets introduces indonesia’s first bamboo charcoal gelato. Gelato Secrets has just added an exciting new favour to their popular menu of artisanal gelatos. Organic Sulawesi Vanilla combines with Bamboo Charcoal Gelato for the newest flavours to hit the gelato market. With shops in Ubud, Seminyak, Sanur and Jimbaran, this Bali-based, family-run gelato company is freezing up a storm. Both gelato and sorbetto are made from 100% natural, fresh ingredients, free from artificial flavouring, colouring and preservatives, sourced locally wherever possible. Recipes are authentic Italian, but elevated to new sweeter heights with a signature twist. 16 UbudLife
Bamboo charcoal, also known as Takesumi in Japan (see our Takesumi article in the last issue:Ed.), has been used for centuries in the East, whose history dates back centuries to China’s Ming Dynasty. It absorbs toxins from various organisms, takes the load off the liver and kidneys and thus acts in an antiaging fashion. It is widely applied in food, cosmetics, spa, clothing and household and lifestyle products. Get on the bamboo charcoal bandwagon and be the first to try our Organic Sulawesi Vanilla and Bamboo Charcoal Gelato in our shops in Ubud, Sanur, and Petitenget. Gelato Secrets – Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, Jalan Raya Ubud, Jalan Danau Tamblingan, Sanur Jalan Raya Petitenget, Seminyak
The bamboo structure – whose name means ‘path to peace’ in Sanskrit – is a sanctuary for private classes, group sessions and quiet introspection. Aside from the visiting mastersin-residence, Dharma Shanti’s regular daily program includes Mediation, Life Talks on stress management and love with Ibu Fera – a former Buddhist nun, the resort’s resident wellbeing expert. Types of yoga include Laughing, Hatha, Easy and the dynamic AntiGravity® or ‘flying’ yoga. In-house guests enjoy exclusive access to 16 complimentary yoga and meditation classes each week.
Four Seasons–Yoga in the Sawah Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan has really embraced Ubud’s ethos of spirituality and wellness with their newly launched exclusive series of international yoga master classes. Supplementary to their existing yoga program, all classes are held in their beautiful new yoga shala in the sawah. Each month presents a different master-in-residence with complimentary daily sessions for in-house guests. September sees a presentation of Ashtanga Vinyasa Yoga with Summer Dien in residence September 14-20, October 5-10 and October 12-17, Summer’s style is described as ‘Mysore self-practice’, tailored to each student’s needs and also building self-discipline to enable them to take the sequence and practice wherever they go. Each month’s master-in-residence specializes in a different form of yoga to keep the program exciting and varied. It is a great opportunity to experience international yoga masters in a beautiful environment. The Dharma Shanti Yoga Bale nestles in a quiet corner of the resort, surrounded by lush ricefields and the fast-flowing Ayung River. 18 UbudLife
Outside guests too, can take advantage of these great yoga and meditation classes, but be sure to book in advance. Four Seasons Resort Bali at Sayan T: +62 (0361) 977577 E: spa.ubu@fourseasons. com
Balinale Annual Film Festival From the 24th till the 30th of September Bali will be assailed with over 300 films, from over 40 countries, many of the countries for the first time. The annual Balinale film festival will be happening again. As the final programme is incomplete at the time we are going to print, we suggest you check the program on the website for the final Balinale 2015 program. www.balinale.com
by jean couteau (with wayan sadha) • cartoon wayan sadha
I
n the fourth year of independence Darmi was a coffee stall warung keeper reputed for her charm and beauty. She had a smile for all from behind the counter and between the bottles and shampoos. With skin fair as ivory and her eyes as round as the moon, she was by far the prettiest of all the coffee-stall keepers of the village of Bukit Simpangan, and youths from all over were lining up at her bench, ordering coffee with the hope of a wink in return. In those times, the bike had not yet become what it was bound to be, a courtship instrument, and the village gallants would usually walk to their belles , eager for a talk and waiting for a sign. Among Darmi's many gallant, one was particularly ugly. His name was Gencel and he was also rich, daring, and patient. Above all, he had a bike. Gencel, thus, had been wearing out his pants on the bench of Darmi for well over two years by then, and still, there was no wink for him. She had others to smile at. Gencel tried all the ways of the village gallants. One day, he would play the macho, the following show off his money and flaunt it. But, whatever he did, she remained stonefaced. It seemed that the more he tried to charm her, the more she avoided his. He had to look for another way.
One day, on the Wednesday of the Parangbakat week, it happened that Darmi needed to go to Denpasar to refurbish the stocks of her stall as she did once every three days, every market day of Jimbaran. There was no motor vehicle in her village. So she had to walk first to the village of Jimbaran where she would catch a bus to Denpasar and make her purchase. But when she arrived at the hamlet of Tegeh Sari, a bike pulled up next to her. It was Gencel, a big smile on his face: " Hey, Darmi," he called out," where are going to, to be on the road so early in the morning. Let me take you to the market of Jimbaran." He had always been a regular and polite patron. Why should Darmi repel him? So she accepted while adding: "Okay, I'll ride with you until the market of Jimbaran, but don't ride too fast, as I am scared." Having said these words, she soon found herself on Gencel's back saddle. Gencel was in command. He had at last his belle for a ride. He soon noticed that the faster he pedalled, the tighter she held him. It was not out of love, but of fright. He did not care. He felt the female grip all along his spine and his heart pounded. When he arrived at Jimbaran, she thought he would stop, but he did not. He accelerated instead, so she could not get off. "Beli (Brother), won't you stop at
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PASTIME the bus station so I can catch my bus?”, she asked timidly from behind his shoulders. “Aren’t you going to Denpasar?”, he replied while accelerating. He was now pedalling like mad, unheeding her protest, and was soon crossing Tuban and, a few minutes later, Kuta. “ Beli, Beli, why do you ride so fast?" she asked anxiously while pounding helplessly on Gencel's broad shoulders. "Because I want to talk to you." And he pedalled, taking the road to Denpasar, bent over his engine, sweat pouring all over his body, partly from the effort, and partly from his fear. At the back, pounding and shrieking, but not daring to jump, there was the pretty Darmi, the "village flower" of Bukit Simpangan, on a helpless ride with the ugly Gencel. Suddenly, while they were riding accross the village of Abian Gombal, Gencel made a turn, which took him inside a Balinese courtyard. He went straight to the balai daja (northern pavilion) and, pulling the shaken Darmi by the arm, he took her inside. Ten minutes later, unheeding the girl's protests and cries, he had "finished her off" (pragatanga ), as the narrator told me. His love, thus, had also been her rape. It was not long, though, before the owner of the house showed up, an old friend of Gencel, who had lent him the room for his "prowess" and her cries. "Who is that girl you have brought here, Gencel?" said his friend Pan Mimis. " She is my girlfriend Darmi," he replied," Go to Jimbaran and tell my father to settle the matter with her family." Behind him, the girl was sprawled on the bed in shock. Pan Mimis did not know, or did not care to know. He took the bike and went to Jimbaran...And time thus passed, a time filled with love and violence... At four p.m. some movement was hard in the courtyard. Gencel's father and mother had come, accompanied by Darmi's parents and the banjar (neighborhood) customary officials. They were arguing loudly: "Let me get inside and see if she really loves him or has been eloped by force," Darmi's father was calling out insistently. But Pan Mimis, the owner of the place, would not let him in." You are in my house. I won't prevent you
to talk, but I won't allow you either to enter into that building of mine. Settle it from the outside." Then Darmi's mother approached the bale daja and blurted out emotionally: "Hey, Darmi, I am your mother, tell me if you eloped from your own will or if that Gencel has kidnapped you by force. Please answer me, pity your mother who has come from far to look after you." Gencel expected this and was all ready. As soon as he had heard the sound of their voices and their arguments, he had taken Darmi by the hair with his left hand, while with his right, he had pulled a knife on her neck. So he told the girl: "Darmi, answer your mother. Answer what you want. But know at once, if you tell her you don't love me, both of us will die, right now, today. I'll slit your throat and next take my life." Darmi could not say a word, she was sweating all over and trembling. "Darmi," her father was now shouting," answer you mother," we came here with the klian (headman) so as to settle the matter as it should." Meanwhile, the blade of Gencel's knife was cold on the neck of the girl, and Gencel was now murmuring in a threatening tone: "Let's finish it, Darmi, let's marry or let's die." Then, hiding her cries, Darmi spoke: "Mother, Father, go back home, I am here with Gencel from my own will. Let me leave you now and make my life with Gencel."... So they left. When Gencel told me the story, Darmi was a few meters away, busy in the kitchen. She has five children and twelve grandchildren. She carries a sad smile on her face. This was a plegandang marriage, a marriage by kidnapping, still common 50 years ago. It sometimes occur today under the new name of ngejuk --plegandang is banned....
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COFFEE TIME
A Toast to Ubud’s Best Roast by meliana salim • image ayu sekar
A true coffee aficionado knows that a freshly brewed cup of coffee is more than just the daily grind. It is a powerful, complex stimulant that has transformed our world and continues to play a key role in our political, social, economic and environmental development. Here are some of Ubud’s best brews. 1/ Kopi Bali If we are talking of coffee in Bali, then we have to mention Kopi Bali – the original and probably still the best. This company, that started more than a century ago has been dispensing quality Java to shops and restaurants across the island. They also train baristas to make the perfect brew. Their original shop is just near Jalan Sulawesi in Denpasar, where you can still enjoy the cheapest and best cappuccino in town. Their Sanur outlet on the Bypass, makes the best north- south meeting place and more recently, they have opened in Ubud in Jalan Monkey Forest where they dispense the same excellent brew. Kopi Bali – Tel: 62 361 720589 Fax: 62 361 720667, www.kopibali.com
2/ Juria Coffee One of the world’s rarest premium Arabica coffees is silently steeping in Juria Coffee, a charming hole-in-the-wall information centre in Ubud. The coffee comes from Flores, an island east of Bali. A descendant of an old and rare Typica species of Arabica coffee of Ethiopian origin, the Juria coffee trees survived the epidemic of the coffee rust disease and remained hidden deep in the Manggarai mountains for over sixty years, until recently rediscovered and resurrected. Juria coffee is by far the most aromatic and intricate coffee I have ever tasted and the founders of Juria Coffee are on a noble mission to save the remaining old Typica trees and preserve Juria’s lineage by educating the locals on coffee processing techniques and raising awareness. For more information on Juria Coffee, follow their Facebook pages “Save the Old Trees” and “Juria Coffee”. Juria Coffee – Jalan Sugriwa 5, Ubud, Bali www.tamansarikopi.com/english
3/ Kahiyang Coffee Coffee is best paired with a good conversation and meeting with Sumatran-born Iwan Raus - passionate coffee roaster and owner of Kahiyang Coffee was that. Their coffee is fresh!. Kahiyang’s locally sourced Fair Trade Arabica coffee is roasted in-house daily between 7 to 9AM. Early risers may watch the free roasting lesson. Raus is a firm believer that there is a different coffee for every day. Choose your beans from Bali’s Kintamani, Java’s Prianger or Papua’s UbudLife 27
5/ Rio Helmi Gallery & Café A stone’s throw from Ubud Palace is the Rio Helmi Gallery & Café - a cool respite from the throngs of tourists and their selfie sticks. Serving an all-day breakfast and brunch menu of Mediterranean dishes, the spacious and light-filled café has a loyal clientele and welcomes the occasional passer-by.
Wamena and let Asep, the self-dubbed “YouTube Barista”, brew you a customised coffee to match your mood. Sip with good conscience, knowing 20% of Kahiyang’s profit goes to the farmers. Kahiyang Coffee is one of those secret places you are reluctant to share for fear of tourist infiltration. You won’t find hipsters, spiritual seekers and Wi-Fi freeloaders in the sparse seating area. We are safe here, for now. Kahiyang Coffee - Jalan Sri Wedari 6, Ubud www.kahiyangcoffee.com
4/ Café Vespa Wake up and smell the coffee as you wander Penestanan Kaja. It’s probably coming from Café Vespa, a popular New Age eatery/ hangout serving some of Ubud’s best coffees and food. Owner Neil, is proud of his artisan coffee, and rightfully so. Café Vespa has perfected the blend with its 100% Arabica coffee comprising beans from Toraja (Sulawesi), Gayo (Aceh) and Kintamani (Bali). The beans are roasted every week according to Neil’s strict specs and ground fresh before serving.
Buddhist owner/photographer Rio Helmi is very particular about his coffee. His signature blend blends come from Aceh, Bali and Brazil and his rich caffè mocha (available upon request), packs enough punch to jumpstart the sleepiest. A sprinkle of paprika and salt is added for depth, I later discovered. Come for the excellent coffee and hearty food–and leave with captured memories of Asia through Rio’s keen eyes. Rio Helmi Gallery & Café – Jalan Suweta 24A, Ubud, www.riohelmi.com/rio-helmi-gallery-cafe
6/ Casa Luna Right in central Ubud, is Casa Luna, an institution started more than 20 years ago by Australian author /restaurateur /wonder woman Janet DeNeefe, founder of the Ubud Writers & Readers Festival and more recently, the Ubud Food Festival. Casa Luna’s coffee is still some of the best in town with 100% premium Indonesian beans. Their full-bodied house blend is earthy and velvety smooth.
Enjoy the free Wi-Fi and eavesdrop on the most curious/bizarre conversations in town.
Ask Made Taman to brew up her legendary cappuccino and pick a slice of cake from Honeymoon Bakery to go with it–best enjoyed while people watching from the comfort of your front-row seat – you never know who will walk in.
Café Vespa – Jalan Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud www.cafe-vespa.com
Casa Luna – Jalan Raya Ubud www.casalunabali.com
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7&8/ Kopi Coffee & Balistar Coffee Tucked snugly in the bustling maze of stalls on the second floor of bustling Ubud Market is Kopi Coffee, a tiny coffee pit stop selling fresh, organic local Arabica coffee sourced directly from select farmers in Kintamani, the mountainous home to Bali’s best coffee. Kopi Coffee’s founder has recently opened a new coffee shop, Balistar Coffee, on Jalan Dewi Sita. The coffee beans at both shops are roasted daily and ground on the spot to preserve the freshness. They offer Toraja coffee from Sulawesi, Mandeling coffee from Sumatra and Aceh’s own kopi luwak, also known as the world’s most expensive coffee. These unique beans are collected from the excrement of wild luwak or Asian palm civets, which select the best beans as an after dinner snack. After passing through the animals’ digestive tracts, creating a particularly smooth brew.. The rising world demand of these highly prized (and hyped) beans has resulted in widespread illegal trapping, force-feeding and other abusive treatment of these wild civets. The only way to be sure that the beans are genuine and harvested ethically is to buy the expensive blends. I say, cut the crap and leave the civets alone. Honestly, the taste is not worth the animals suffering.... Kopi Coffee – Ubud Market 2nd Floor Blok A-3, Ubud, www.kopi-coffee.com Balistar Coffee – Jalan Dewi Sita, www.balistar-coffee.com
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WHO’S WHO
Soemantri by richard horstman • images ayu sekar
S
ome of the first foreign tourists to arrive in Ubud in the 1930’s were intellectuals - writers and artists. The artists were especially captured by the quality of the light adorning the rich scenery, and the abundance of exotic subject matter - cultural icons and the gracious Balinese. It was the timely meeting of western techniques and ideas with the local traditional art practices, however that merged to play an important historical and cultural role.
museum as its Chief Curator, International Liaison and the Museum Development Officer. “During my art education I was blessed to meet and learn from many talented artists, including Ida Bagus Made Poleng (1915-1999), arguably the most famous Balinese painter of the 20th century. He taught me how to truly appreciate Balinese aesthetics, where harmony and balance are at the core. As they are central to the Balinese way of life.”
Balinese traditional art – painting and woodcarving - was revolutionized to feed a market for Balinese souvenirs for the growing tourist sector. In 1936 the King of Ubud, Tjokorda Gde Agung Sukawati with some senior local artists and two influential foreign artists formed the Pita Maha artists collective to over see the development of this new genre, dubbed Balinese modern traditional art. Local farmers became painters and localized “schools” of art evolved finding new and large national and international audiences, and promoting Bali on the global stage. The idea of Ubud’s first art museum was conceived then as well.
Understanding and appreciating the virtues of the Balinese Hindu narratives along with the aesthetic principals of Balinese art helped shape Soemantri’s philosophies and his gracious disposition towards life. “In our pursuit of happiness we have to become masters of a balancing act. Understanding that we are constantly shifting between two polarities, that of positive and negative, helps me to except my reality in any given moment, and to manage my expectations of life.” Dedicated to building community, via his commitment to Puri Lukisan, Soemantri’s museum experience has ventured into not-for-profit management, management and development, fund raising, exhibition design and catalogs, and art conservation. Numerous other accomplishments are worthy of mention, however, his contributions have helped position it from being the least, to the most visited museum in Ubud in 10 years.
Museum Puri Lukisan (Palace of Paintings) was opened in the center of Ubud in 1956 and has since played a major role in the development of Balinese art, while being at the heart of enormous community of local artists. “I first visited Puri Lukisan in 1994,” says Soemantri Widagdo, “and became a devoted student and patron of Balinese art, returning to Ubud regularly ever since.” For the past decade Soemantri has volunteered his expertise to the UbudLife 33
“Illuminating Line: Master Drawings of I Gusti Nyoman Lempad”, the first-ever international retrospective exhibition of Bali’s most important traditional architect and artist in 2014 has been Soemantri’s most ambitious project to date. It featured the return of 70 drawings of the 1930’s-50’s period to the museum Lempad (1862-1978) helped design and build, and coincided with Lempad of Bali, a beautiful 400 plus page album, Soemantri co-authored. “Beginning in 2008, the project evolved like a detective story revealing many surprises and involving investigations into archives in museums and private collections all over the world. It was exhilarating and time-consuming to find surviving work across four continents,” he says. “Lempad witnessed Bali’s history from pre- colonial times to the beginning of mass tourism, a period of more than 100 years. His work is still so modern that it carries important lessons about the future of Balinese art and the depth of its cultural roots. Almost all of his early drawings left Bali in the 1930’s and three generations of Balinese had yet to see them.” Soemantri believes Balinese art has yet to reach its full potential, especially on the international stage. The three aspects that combine to create an exceptional traditional Balinese artists, according to Soemantri are, “their knowledge of their tradition - the myths and narratives - their technical ability, and their personal expressive flair.” Art is a people business, connecting and building relationships locally and internationally and has helped transform the once small village of Ubud into a thriving tourist mecca. The current (old paradigm) art business model however, has resulted in the artists and the buyers being disadvantaged, and the middleman being the major beneficiary. A future orientated, and strategic thinker, the evolution of the museum and gallery models is a subject that is never far from Soemantri’s mind. “The art world is undergoing great change, so in my endeavor to develop a new museum model I have shifted from a framework based on capitalism to one based on the emergence of a global co-operative platform.” “The capitalism free market concept is based on the scarcity and the norms of supply and demand, yet in the modern world the idea of scarcity has been replaced by 34 UbudLife
abundance. The post capitalism model is based on the abundance of information and cyberspace allows new freedoms increasingly moving the economic framework to a community-working model. Free information provided in real time by IT (internet technology) is a global agent that cannot be stopped or controlled. What could be the benefits to the art world?”
Born in 1956 in Central Java, Soemantri has a Ph. D in Chemical Engineering and has forged a successful international career in the field. A selfdescribed agent of change, “I am just catalyst for some thing to happen,” he humbly says. “Balinese traditional art is currently enjoying a revival, and will continue to grow, however, what the future museum and gallery models will look like, I do not know.”
There is now a powerful disconnection between the old and the new ways of viewing art and this is impacting on museums and galleries. The revolution of communication and information technology allows the art sector to be reshaped around new values and behaviours and the virtual world with social media is playing an essential role. And says Soemantri, “developing an environment where trust and goodwill can thrive is the optimum goal.” ... UbudLife 35
Buddha Bowl - try Thai must try by ayu sekar • image jue
The menu contains completely different items to those of Warung Siam so while some of the most popular Thai favourites are missing, there are other more interesting dishes to take their place. As it is newly opened, Jue will see which dishes are popular, and adjust the menu accordingly. So watch out for new additions on the specials board. The Vietnamese crab spring rolls with the piquant dipping sauces are fabulous and the Thai Red Duck Curry is worth a visit alone! Tangy and as spicy as you want to order it, it is a memorable dish.
R
ight in the midst of Pengosekan is the newest and cutest place to try Thai. Vietnamese is also on the menu. Ebullient entreprenur Jue is Thai (don’t even think about pronouncing his full name!) He is well connected and has already been involved with Arma Thai Restaurant at ARMA before opening his Warung Siam in Jalan Goutama. Ironically, he learned about cooking Thai while he was studying engineering in Melbourne, Australia. Later, on returning home to Thailand, he picked up more skills and knowledge from his mother, so that now, he really knows Thai cooking. His knowledge of herbs and combinations is exemplary. The sage green restaurant space is soothing and comfortable, and the menu is filled with must try items. The quality of the food is high and the authenticity is impressive. Jue decided to offer a mix of Thai and Vietnamese dishes on the menu. The Vietnamese dishes are lighter and fresher, while the Thai dishes are richer and redolent with flavor. 36 UbudLife
Vietnamese favourites like Pho Bo – the famous beef noodle soup are there on the menu along with rice paper spring rolls with chicken or prawns, grilled prawn skewers, fern salad and Vietnamese coffee will be making an appearance soon. Thai delicacies include the fabulous Red Duck Curry, and an intriguing Jungle curry. The Flossy Fish Mango Salad is a combination of green mango salad and flossed fish which adds a tangy and crispy texture to the fresh tasting mango salad. Vegetarian options are available for those who like vegetarian with flavor. Buddha Bowl looks as if it is to become Ubud’s next big thing. Along with the pleasing environment and panoramic views of the street – the prices are all net (you can always leave a tip) so there are no nasty surprises when you get the bill. Coffee is Lilly, which is one of the best and personally, I cant wait to try it again.... Buddha Bowl – Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, next to Taco Casa, T: 081 339 339 928 Warung Siam – Jalan Goutama, Ubud T: 0812 396 55905
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words • image ayu sekar
Being a king or even a warrior for a day can be exhausting. these heavily decorated warriors await their call at a cultural event in Batuan, making the most of the spare time by taking a nap.
UbudLife 41
ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage
7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm
legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance legong telek women performance
ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod
7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm
tue
ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance trance culture
ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod
7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm
wed
legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]
ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage
7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm
thu
kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]
puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st
7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm
fri
barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance
ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage
7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 5.30 pm
legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong
ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage
7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm
every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance
pura desa batuan-open stage
7.00 pm
mon sun
legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance
sat
ubud cultural dance performances
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UbudLife 45
Ride the Wake by meliana salim • images courtesy of bwp
As an adventurous water baby living on an island of endless summer, I owe it to myself to explore every waterhole and aqua activity there is. Be it scuba diving, surfing, white water rafting, snorkeling or waterfall hunting, I never turn down a chance to get wet and wild in Bali’s beautiful nature. I am hopeless at board sports and my knowledge of wakeboarding is practically non-existent, but when I was offered an experience at the Bali Wake Park, I descended from the highlands of Ubud in a heartbeat.
ACTIVITIES Conveniently located in Benoa Harbour–15 minutes from Bali’s tourist hotspots of Kuta, Jimbaran and Sanur, an hour from Ubud and a 10-minute drive from Ngurah Rai International Airport–Bali Wake Park (www. baliwakepark.com) is the island’s first and onlywakeboarding park, serving riders of all ages and skill levels since April 2015. Encompassing state-of-the-art full size rotating cable systems surrounding a fivehectare saltwater lake with eight carriers (allowing up to eight people to ride at once), a two-tower system ideal for beginners and children and a multi-brand retail pro shop, the park introduces beginners to the thrilling sport of wakeboarding while providing experienced riders with the facilities to further hone their skills. Simply put, it’s wakeboarding while being towed by an overhead cable system instead of a boat, making it significantly cheaper, hassle-free and environmentally friendly. Non-wakeboarders are also welcome to pamper themselves in the lovely day spa, check out the Ninebot (electric-powered recreational vehicle) or soak up the sun in the inifinity pool overlooking the lake action. Foodies will not be disappointed with Made’s Warung (an outlet of Bali’s iconic restaurant chain) and an upscale Chinese seafood restaurant called Akame. For those with deeper pockets, the adjacent heliport promises to take you to great heights in style for a spectacular bird’s eye view of the island. My one-hour daily riding pass, priced at IDR 400,000, includes a wristband (to be time-scanned at the beginning of each ride) and the use of basic equipment: a life vest, a helmet and a board—choose from beginner boards, skurfers, kneeboards or double skis. I decided the least intimidating one for a wakeboarding virgin was the kneeboard.
As with all sports, safety comes first. In less than four minutes, the Bali Wake Park introductory and safety video had me all revved up and ready to get onboard. If those young, gorgeous bikini babes in the video can do it, how hard could it be? I signed the waiver, put on my helmet and life vest and headed to the deck to for a crash kneeboarding course with the friendly instructor. Placing my kneeboard on the start ramp, he eased me into a comfortable kneeling position, secured my legs with the knee straps and reminded me that most beginners fell in the water at the launch stage. I took the handle from the cable operator, grabbed it firmly and got into launch position. As I leaned forward on my board, I kept my centre of gravity as low as humanly possible and my eyes fixed on the light above, anxiously waiting for it to turn green. I admit I was nervous. This reminded me of the first time I went skiing without much instructions, had cold feet and froze in fear at the top of the slopes and had to take my skis off and endure the walk of shame downhill.
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It was too late to back down now. The light had just turned green. I braced myself for the initial jerk and held on for dear life. In a split second, the cable thrust me forward from zero to 25 kilometres per hour. I went off like a rocket. The pull was so strong and swift that I almost lost my grip but I promptly steadied myself. As my board stabilized, I straightened up and let the handle pull me along for a few exhilarating metres, zooming past strategically placed obstacles (for advanced riders only). Fast approaching ahead, I saw my very first corner marked clearly with two little red buoys. I leaned to the right side, putting most of my weight on my right leg. The board responded by steering to the right, just in time for me to go through the buoys. I did it! I cleared two more corners and was well over halfway around the lake, beaming and screaming away. My complacency was short-lived. At the next corner, I forgot everything that the instructor taught me and panicked. I lost control of the handle and fell face down into the water. I laughed out loud as I regained my composure and make my way onshore. On the buggy ride back, my instructor divulged that it was the hardest corner in the park and commended my novice effort. That challenge pumped up my adrenaline. Following additional coaching and tips from my instructor, I was primed and determined to tackle that tricky turn before my hour ended. I went for it, again and again unsuccessfully and I could feel my arms weakening and my grip loosening with every attempt but I refused to admit defeat. On my fourth round, I finally cleared it and came full circle! It was the most wonderful feeling in the world. Before my hour was up, I decided to give my sore muscles a break and save the beginner board experience for another sunny day. Wakeboarding is a skill best learned with great patience along with determination. When you stumble and fall, you can choose to slink away and nurse your bruised ego, or you can smile, swim to the side of the lake, get back up and try again. The important thing is to listen to the instructions, never give up and enjoy the ride. That’s wakeboarding....
Come to think of it, that’s life! UbudLife 51
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WORLD MAP
THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA
UBUD
ISLAND OF BALI
UBUD LOCATION Ubud, lies in the heart of Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades. Artists also apply their skills to making attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to view and temples and wonderous sights to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!...
...
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LEGEND:
Provincial capital
Town
Places of interest
Village
Mountain
MENJANGAN ISLAND
BAL
Pemuteran Reef Building
Secret Bay
Gilimanuk Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik
LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi
Sumberkelampok
Blimbingsari
Klatakan
Gerokgak
Mt. Musi 1224
Mt. Merbuk 1386
Sumbersari
Antur
Lovina
Gobleg
Bestala Mayong Busungbiu
Tambling Mund
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Subuk
LI
Candikusuma
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Pupuan Pujungan Mt
Tegalasih
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Airanakan
Pe
a B e a ch
Pancoran
Mt. Mesehe 1344
Pangkungdedari Melaya
vin
Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble
Puri Jati [muck-diving]
Celukan Bawang
Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)
Temple
A
E I S
Lo
Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang Labuhan lalang
Lake
A
Banyubiru
IT
NEGARA
Cupel Munduk Perancak
Munduk Yehkuning
Batungsel
Tista
Batuagung
Sanda Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah
Bat
Manggissari Asahduren
Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h
Belimbing
Ampadan
Balia
Balian Beach
Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban
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Padang Sulub
Uluw
Airport/Airstrip
Air Sanih
Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji
Bungkulan
emaron
ran Panji
Bukti
Jagaraga Bila
SINGARAJA Banyuning
Tamblang
Sukasada
Pacung
Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les
Tegal
Pegayaman Gitgit
Asahpanji
Catur
Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta
Tembok Muntidesa
Bayun
Yehketipat
Bantang Penulisan
Kintamani
Lake Bratan
Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti
tukaru
Apuan
Wongaya
T ul a
Sekardadi
Tulamben
PURI WIRATA Dive Resort & Spa
Pengotan Penyebah
Sandakan
Seribatu
Taro
Besakih Pempatan Buyan
Puhu
Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus
Culik
Mt. Agung 3142
Kayuambua
Angantiga
m
Mt. Abang 2153
Penulisan Nungkung
t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan
Kedisan
Penelokan
Pelaga
Lake Batur
y n Ba
Candi Kuning
Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya
Trunyan
be
gan duk
Tianyar
Mt. Batur Batur 1717
Pancasari
Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan
Penuktukan
Sambirenteng
Gentah
Bakungan Penginyahan
k
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BALI MAP
Surfing spots
Diving spots
Harbour
Kayubihi
Ababi
Jemeluk Wall Amed Bunutan Reef Jemeluk Japanese Wreck Bunutan
Abang
Gili Selang Lempuyang
Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan
Sebatu
Penebel Perean Pitra
Sulahan Singarata
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The Traditions of Tejakula
by rachel love • images courtesy of cili mas oceanside resort
T
he village of Tejakula on Bali’s quiet north coast has been a well kept secret for far too long. Here, on this black, rocky coastline, you can enjoy safe swimming and snorkelling, you can practice yoga and be pampered with spa and wellness treatments. At the nearby village of Les, you can take a short trek to the spectacular Yeh Mempeh waterfall. The name means ‘flying water’ in Balinese, and at 30 metres high, this is one of the tallest falls on the island. It is reached by a one-kilometre walk through plantations of papaya, pineapple and jackfruit, at the end of which you can stand in the flow of the waterfall and enjoy the sensation of a natural massage. If you’re feeling fit, you might want to head 30 kilometres inland for an early morning ascent of Gunung Batur volcano with the reward of a fabulous sunrise view from the top. Visitors to Tejakula will be enchanted by the eco-friendly Cili Emas Oceanside Resort (www.ciliemas.com).
DESTINATION
Tejakula was once a trading port that far outstripped the present-day ports of Benoa and Padangbai in influence and fame. Ancient foreign relics including ceramic pots have been found in the area, suggesting that from as far back as the 1st century CE, it functioned as an important crossroads where traders from distant lands came together. In most regions of Bali, the people are descended from the Javanese who invaded the island when the kingdom of Majapahit began to fall in the 15th century, but in Tejakula the early inhabitants were the aboriginal Balinese, the Bali Aga people. In the 17th century, Balinese people from Blahbatuh, Karangasem and Bangli migrated here in large numbers, as well as Chinese and Persian migrants. According to a local legend, a brilliant light appeared in the skies over the village, visible right across 66 UbudLife
the island and from as far away as China, and those who saw it believed that it signified the enormous prosperity of the area. Tejakula was favoured, it seems, for its fertile volcanic soil, which supported the cultivation of rice and oranges. In fact, it was the largest citrusgrowing area in Bali, and horses were used to pull the carts of harvested fruit, which was delivered all along the north coast. For this reason there is a famous horse bath just 100 metres from Tejakula’s main road, where the horses were washed in the cool water after their long hot journeys. Fed by a natural spring, the bath has since been converted into a public bathing place – an elaborate white stone structure of sculpted arches and pillars, gushing water spouts and separate sections for men and women.
Sea salt is a notable Tejakula industry. Here, the farmers use a processing technique that goes back hundreds of years, in which they channel seawater into salt ponds to allow for natural evaporation. Laboratory tests have revealed that Tejakula sea-salt is one of the best quality sea-salts in Indonesia because the absence of any refining process has allowed it to retain important minerals such as iron, magnesium, potassium, zinc, calcium and iodine. Tejakula is also home to Bali’s most complete ‘wayang wong’ troupe of dancers and gamelan players. Wayang Wong is a sacred masked dance-drama taken from the Hindu epic, the Ramayana. ‘Wayang’ means shadow puppet, and ‘wong’ means people, so unlike the wayang kulit, in which leather puppets are manipulated behind a screen, wayang wong is performed by actors on a stage. The dancer must imitate the character represented by the mask, and there is a permanent alternation between the sacred and the profane, beauty and ugliness, refinement and caricature. There are 72 sacred masks in the Tejakula troupe, most of which date back to the 18th century, and remain in pristine condition. The masks are believed to be a medium for communication with the ancestors and can only be shown in public on certain days, or at religious rituals, so in 1975, the troupe decided to establish a secular wayang wong for public performances outside the temple. In these secular performances, duplicates are substituted for the sacred masks. Not many visitors to Bali make it as far as Tejakula, but those who are bold enough to venture away from the crowded south will discover a different world. This is a place to connect with the history, culture, nature and spirituality of the island, a beachside getaway on the far side of Bali’s central mountain range, where the heat of the day is cooled by fresh sea breezes.... UbudLife 67
Karangasem’s
Majestic Water Palaces
U
bud may have its intriguing royal palace that offers a glimpse of how the nobility live, but if you really want to get a sense of Balinese royalty at its most opulent, a trip to the water palaces of East Bali is a must. The royal family of Karangasem can trace their lineage back to the Majapahit Empire, and at one point they ruled the largest kingdom in all of Bali with control over the entire eastern part of the island as well as neighbouring Lombok. Even after the Dutch arrived, the
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rajas of Karangasem retained lofty positions as regents and were still highly revered as kings by their people. The last king of Karangasem was I Gusti Bagus Djelantik, who went by the noble title of Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem. Well travelled and highly educated, the king was a savvy politician as well as an architect and visionary who embarked on a number of impressive building projects including the Taman Ujung and Tirta Gangga water palaces,
OUT OF TOWN
two spectacular royal residences that can still be visited today.
TAMAN UJUNG Officially known as Taman Soekasada Ujung, the Ujung water palace was not always a place of beauty and grandeur. The palace was built around an existing pond named Kolam Dirah, which was originally used as a place of punishment
for practitioners of black magic. When Anak Agung Anglurah Ketut Karangasem took over as regent, he opted to transform the site into a lavish country residence. As soon as you enter the grounds you can see why the king chose this spot to build his dream palace. The gardens sit in a lovely valley with sweeping views of terraced rice paddies and the slopes of Mount Agung to the north, and the cobalt waters of the sea to the south UbudLife 69
with views across to the distant peak of Mount Rinjani on Lombok.
period furniture and black and white photos of the royal family.
Spread throughout the lush gardens are three large lotus ponds and a series of floating pavilions that served as the king’s private quarters, guest accommodation for visiting dignitaries, and the king’s meditation bale. There are also plenty of spots to sit and relax amid the flowering plants, terraced lawns and rustling palm trees.
Wander through the garden and climb the steps past the terraced lawns and you will reach a lookout point with two stone bull and rhino statues. This is the site of Pura Manikan, a holy spring that the royal family and local villagers still visit for important ceremonies including cremation rites.
Head across the long white bridge to the main pavilion and you will see ornately carved statues, archways, and pillars that make use of Balinese, European and Middle Eastern architectural styles. Inside the main pavilion huge windows allow cool breezes to flow in and the rooms have been outfitted with 70 UbudLife
Although Taman Ujung was almost completely destroyed after the 1963 eruption of Mount Agung and the 1976 earthquake, the palace was restored to its former grandeur using the original architecture and designs with funds from the World Bank. Visitors are welcome to stroll the grounds and explore the pavilions, and there are even villas on site for those who want to stay overnight.
Surrounded by verdant forest and rice fields that spill down to the sea, Tirta Gangga is a stunning multi-level site with shimmering pools dotted with statues depicting characters from the Mahabharata, stepping stone paths over the ponds, stone bridges, and a massive fountain with eleven tiers, each representing a lotus blossom. The striking design elements include a combination of Balinese, Chinese and European influences. The pools here are fed by cool natural springs that the Balinese consider holy and healing. Many say that if you bathe in the pools under the light of the full moon, all illnesses will be healed and you will gain eternal youth. The water comes from a source underneath a huge banyan tree and flows down all three levels of the complex to feed a large wading pool that visitors are welcome to swim in as well as the garden ponds and rice terraces.
TIRTA GANGGA While Taman Ujung is relatively quiet on any given day, Tirta Gangga is a much more popular spot with tourists and locals alike. The name means ‘water of the Ganges’, which refers to the holy river revered by Hindus and the sacred springs that feed the pools here. Construction started in 1948 and rumour has it that the king himself was often on site to help build the complex.
Tirta Gangga was also destroyed in the eruption and earthquake that wiped out Taman Ujung, but the descendants of the royal family have worked tirelessly to restore the elegance and artistry of the palace and grounds, and many still work there today maintaining the site so that visitors can experience what life was like during the golden days of the Karangasem kingdom. Both Taman Ujung and Tirta Gangga are just a short drive from Amlapura, the capital city of Karangasem Regency. However, many people opt to base themselves in Candidasa, Padang Bai or Ubud and make day trips to the water palaces. Both complexes also have accommodation on site, some of which are in the raja’s former pavilions for those who want to play king or queen for a night.... UbudLife 71
“A cozy place to stay & dine right by the beautiful Candidasa Lagoon” Serving French & Indonesian menu - Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner
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MEGIBUNG by stephanie • mage ayu sekar
In a small village in East Bali men, women and children gather around a bountiful array of traditional dishes including smoked duck, chicken satay, green bean and coconut salad, steamed fish, and of course steamed rice, both white and yellow. Taking generous portions and piling them high onto banana leaves, the diners joke, gossip and soak up the convivial atmosphere of the communal dining experience. This style of eating is called megibung in Bali, and it is an integral element of many celebrations and ceremonies in Bali’s Karangasem Regency and parts of Lombok. The megibung tradition dates back to the 17th century when Karangasem was at war with the Sasak kingdom of Lombok. In 1692 AD a contingent of Balinese warriors headed by the charismatic king of Karangasem, I Gusti Anglurah Ktut Karangasem, invaded western Lombok. In between battles the king insisted on sharing his food and drink with his soldiers, and during each meal he would sit at the same level as them supping side-by-side with even the lowest ranked soldiers. This spirit of togetherness and equality gave the soldiers a boost in morale and created a sense of camaraderie that can still be seen in megibung gatherings today. 74 UbudLife
CULTURE
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Although not as popular as it once was, megibung is still practiced in a smattering of villages in East Bali and West Lombok. It is particularly popular during ceremonies and holidays such as weddings, cremations, tooth filing rites, odalan (temple anniversaries), otonan (Balinese birthdays) and Idul Fitri (the end of Ramadan). Gatherings can be as small as just four or five people or huge affairs with the entire community gathering to feast. In fact, the largest megibung on record was in 2006 when the regent of Karangasem, I Wayan Geredeg, hosted a shared meal for 20,520 people in the royal park of Taman Sukasada Ujung. The preparation for most megibung meals takes place well before dawn with families or whole villages coming together to grind spices, herbs and roots into pastes, chop meats and vegetables, mix ingredients by hand, and cook various dishes over charcoal grills or open fires. Both men and women participate in the culinary creations, and young people help out and watch on to learn the family recipes that have been passed down through the generations. Once the food is ready to eat, the actual meal takes place on the ground with woven mats laid out with banana leave platters filled with ample mounds of rice and side dishes that include grilled, smoked and steamed meats, salads, curries, sausages, lawar, spicy vegetables, and plenty of fiery sambal to amp up the heat factor. Diners sit in a circle around the food and help themselves to their preferred dishes. Usually each person gets their own banana leave that serves as a plate, although small groups may also eat straight off a communal platter. The type of food on offer varies depending on the ceremony, village or religious dietary restrictions. However, the sense of unity is a common thread that runs through 76 UbudLife
every megibung gathering. Everyone is welcome at these meals regardless of caste, religion, gender or societal standing, and much emphasis is placed on good will and conviviality. The idea is that just like the king of Karangasem and his soldiers, the diners can bond over good food and drink. You can expect the atmosphere at most megibung feasts to be lively and cheerful with people of all ages and walks of life dressed in colourful traditional clothing, chatting amicably, and sharing stories and anecdotes. In addition, many a megibung meal is followed by free-flowing brem (rice wine) or tuak (palm wine), which adds to the already animated ambience. Should you find yourself at a megibung celebration, there are a few cardinal rules to follow. First and foremost, all food must be served and eaten using only the right hand, as Indonesians consider the left hand to be impure. Yelling and laughing too loudly during the meal is frowned upon, and much like dining etiquette in most parts of the world, so are bodily emissions. Moreover, it is considered impolite to leave the dining circle before everyone in the group has finished their meal. The chances of coming across a random megibung gathering in a village may be slim these days, but there are a few restaurants around the island that offer megibung style dining. Both Alila Manggis and Bali Asli offer superb menus with dishes made with fresh locally sourced ingredients. They also offer hands-on cooking classes where you can learn to make those dishes from scratch. Rendezvous Restaurant in Candidasa also has a great set megibung menu, and Hotel Tugu Bali in Canggu offers a unique megibung dining experience where you can sample authentic Balinese fare in a gorgeous communal setting while dressed in traditional Balinese attire....
TIPS
pura protocol
Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples A
s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously. Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy! The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless. When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful. Women who are menstruating must wait outside. Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo. If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing. Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.... UbudLife 77
nEXT ISSUE image ayu sekar
Purification Under the Water “mandi air suci” at a secret place Keeping Silent in Tabanan – we check out the place of silence We explore some of Ubud’s mighty Fine new restaurants Best Ubud Eats for under $3.00 Spa life in Ubud 78 UbudLife
RESTAURANTS Bali Star Coffee Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 89671188648
ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Ayung Resort Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com Gunung Merta Bungalow Jl. Andong, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975463 Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Tepi Sawah Villas Jl. Goa Gajah, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970388 www.tepisawahvillas.com Terrace Abing Resort Banjar Kebon, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 980970 www.abingterrace.com Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168
KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992
www.balistar-coffee.com
Kafe Topi Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151
Bridges Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com
Kopi Coffee Ubud Market 2F, Ubud Phone: +62 89621071118 www.kopi-coffee.com
Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124
Lotus Lane Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 975357 www.lotus-restaurants.com
Bollero Bar & Resto Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972872 www.bollerobali.com Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com Damar Restaurant Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978374 Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056
NOMAD Jl. Raya Ubud 35, Ubud Phone: 0361 977169 www.nomad-bali.com Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 Warung Alami Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Phone: 081 23913754 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81239655905 Wijaya Kusuma Restaurant Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com
NIGHT LIFE
Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud www.kebunbistro.com
CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com
Kopi Coffee Ubud Market 2F, Ubud Phone: +62 89621071118 www.kopi-coffee.com
Damar Restaurant, Bar & Lounge Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978374 www.damar-resto.com UbudLife 79
SPAS Aura Theraphy Spa Ubud Aura Retreat Center Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 27997658 www.balihealingspa.com Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush
Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com Taman Beji Spa Jl. Premasanthi 14 Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339585666 www.tamanbejitraditionalspa.com
SHOPS Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404 Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com
Kayma Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9100017 www.karmaspaubud.com
Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com
Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 prs_milano@yahoo.com
Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com
Putri BaliSpa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978960 www.putribalispa.com Sang Spa Jl. Raya Jembawan 13B, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277222 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277333 www.sangspaubud.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com
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GALLERIES Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com Sari Api Gallery Contemporary Handmade Ceramic Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 082 3831 5697 Tanah Tho Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh, Ubud Phone: 0361 981482 www.tanahtho.com
CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056
SISI Jl.Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 www.sisibag.com YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 7801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com
ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Mobile: 081 23976419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861
YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com Intuitive Flow Jl. Penestanan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 977824 | Mobile: 081 23924649 www.intuitiveflow.com
SPORT/RECREATION
USEFUL NUMBERS Ambulance
Bali Wake Park Jl. Pelabuhan Benoa, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 8468866 www.baliwakepark.com
Airport Authority
Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.co UBUD STABLES Desa Pupuan, Br. Timbul, Tegallalang Phone: +62 81339585666 www.ubudstables.com
EAST BALI SECTION Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangase Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com Puri Wirata Dive Resort and Spa Jl. Raya Bunutan, Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23523 www.puriwirata.com
Bali Police Department
227711
Directory Inquiries
108/112
Fire Brigade
113
Immigration
751038
International Red Cros
226465
Post Office Search and Rescue Joglo Restaurant Jl.Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42181 www.joglocandidasa.com
118 751011
161 751111
Sanglah Public Hospital
227911
Tourist information Center
753540
Time Ubud Tourist Information
103 973286
Villarossa Candidasa Jl.Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42062 www.villarossa.org Villa Sasoon Jl. Puri Bagus Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41511 www.villasasoon.com Watergarden Hotel Restaurant & Spa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41540 www.watergardenhotel.com
MUSEUMS
CONSULATES Australia
241118
ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228
Brazil
757775
Czech Republic
286465
Denmark & Norway
701070
Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502
French
285485
Germany
288535
Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136
Hungary
287701
Italy
701005
Japan
227628
Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074
Mexico
223266
Netherlands
761502
Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338
Spain/Portugal
769286
Sweden & Finland
288407
Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779
Switzerland
751735
Unitedkingdom
270601
USA
233605 UbudLife 81
LAST WORD
Mark Ulyseas
The fashion for religious trinkets appears to be growing: Whether they are plastered on the forehead, worn on the wrist, around the neck, around the waist or as a tattoo where the sun doesn’t shine. It is all in a God’s name, literally. Salvation, karma, snipping the anatomy of a baby as a ritual, water and fire purification, floral tributes containing sweets in plastic wrapping, orange robes, black robes, white robes all jostle for a place in the firmament. Who is holier than thou? Guess? And as for The Holy Books: Dare not drop them on the ground, burn them or show any disrespect. Of course these books contain words that are claimed to be of/from God/s and dictated to Man. Man being the stenographer who has morphed into the self-appointed interpreter of the Word. Millions of trees are cut down to make paper for the Books. The Holy Books are not free. Someone has to pay for them. The Gods’ words have a price. Destruction of Mother Nature and her denizens is essential in many religious ceremonies. Last November over 300,000 animals were slaughtered in a country where a devastating earthquake followed not long after the mass slaughter. The decapitation of animals was an offering to the Gods. Apparently Mother Nature thought otherwise. All in God’s name they say. Sing, recite, eat the right food, follow the rituals even if it means destroying life on earth, and honour your Gods not Gods of others. Each God is appropriated by a section of the people. Some own one God, others more than one God. To follow one, you have to give up the other. It is all very confusing, like riding a Ferris wheel with a bad case of vertigo. And while the offerings and costume parades continue, the sixth mass extinction is upon us. Some claim that Truth will be lost in this wave of extinction. I think they are wrong. We lost Truth a long time ago. What we have now is a sentence from the Holy Books. A sentence of death. Nothing more.
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Here are a few words from George Denis Patrick Carlin, Grammy-winning American stand-up comedian, actor, author, and philosopher: “We’re so self-important. So arrogant. Everybody’s going to save something now. Save the trees, save the bees, save the whales, save the snails. And the supreme arrogance? Save the planet! Are these people kidding? Save the planet? We don’t even know how to take care of ourselves; we haven’t learned how to care for one another. We’re gonna save the...planet? And, by the way, there’s nothing wrong with the planet in the first place. The planet is fine. The people are...! Compared with the people, the planet is doin’ great. It’s been here over four billion years . . . The planet isn’t goin’ anywhere, folks. We are! We’re goin’ away. Pack your shit, we’re goin’ away. And we won’t leave much of a trace. Thank God for that. Nothing left. Maybe a little Styrofoam. The planet will be here, and we’ll be gone. Another failed mutation; another closed-end biological mistake.” Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om...
Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.