Ubud Life 25th Edition

UbudLife NO. 25 • DECEMBER - FEBRUARY 2016

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

free MELUKAT AT SEBATU SHOPPING FOR CHRISTMAS BALI’S RIVER PEOPLE SAVE THE TURTLES NUSA PENIDA

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EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu,

editor ubudlife-gsb team

Its December and Christmas will be here soon. It can be quite strange celebrating Christmas in a foreign country where it is not the norm.

When I used to live in Singapore, I came to Bali one year just to escape the incessant carols that start playing in supermarkets and shopping centres in October just to get people into the buying mode.

creative graphic designer dedito ssn.

Commercial Christmas or the festive season as it is now often called, is big business and has little that is holy about it. The holy day has become a holiday!

finance yukmang susilawati

Now Bali kids are starting to adopt it as a great way to get more free stuff from their bule friends – but that is fine – what is it about if not about giving?

For many of us, Thanksgiving is a more realistic festive occasion. Even though the origins may be a little murky and it may be a little over celebrated in some places, and the Pilgrims came to America a long time ago, we all have things to be grateful for and that is what makes it fabulous. That, and the Turkey! Roasted stuffed with vegetables, cranberry sauce and all the trimmings!

We can each give it a little authenticity by being grateful. And that probably applies to Christmas as well. We can practice giving, from the heart which makes the world just a little better place to live in. We could each spend a little time thinking of others less fortunate and give a little something.

Seasons Greetings to All Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Ayu Sekar These beautiful oil lamps evoke the spirit of Christmas or even any other holy day.

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photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani

distribution ubudlife-gsb team publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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contents 18

56

WINNING WINE WAYS

26

MELUKAT AT SEBATU

BALI’S RIVER PEOPLE

74

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NUSA PENIDA A DIFFERENT WORLD

30

SEASONAL SHOPPING FOR CHRISTMAS

66

SABA ASRI TURTLES CONSERVATION CENTER

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happenings around ubud Getting Fresh at Taksu

The Bali Spirit Festival Come March 29th until April 3rd 2016 and Ubud comes alive with yoginis and spiritual seekers from around the world. Some come for the yoga, others come for the great music and entertainment- but they all come. In droves!

It makes one of Ubud’s highest times on the yearly calendar. There is always something for everyone from kids to grandparents – although often it is granny dressed up in her best yoga tights, who is leading the way. Times are indeed a ‘changing! They say Yoga keeps you young after all!

This year the BSF folk are also doing something to help the orang utans and the burning rainforests of Kalimantan.

Tickets are on sale already so make sure you take advantage of the early bird offers and get your tickets for the glorious fun filled days and nights of Yoga and world music. Venues have not been announced yet, but the guess is that they will be similar and fabulous just as in the last few years.

General Inquiries (ticketing, vending, general questions): ask@balispiritfestival.com Spirit Team/Volunteer Inquiries: volunteerbsf@gmail.com 12 UbudLife

Taksu now has their own fabulous new healthy vegan gourmet vegetarian restaurant. Called Fresh, it is the pride of vegetarians everywhere with food that looks so good and gourmet, you’d swear it was normal. Fresh is Ubud’s newest raw and vegan restaurant, showcasing the edible art of Chef Arif. Guests can enjoy spectacularly presented raw, vegan, vegetarian and macrobiotic dishes from the tranquil upstairs dining room while looking out over the luscious Taksu gardens.

The food tastes as good as it looks and almost encourages the cynics amongst us to get healthy and start eating raw. Taksu is just one of those Ubud success stories all housed in a finely constructed complex looking over a tiny hidden river valley.

Taksu - Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud, T: (0361)971490

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BORNEO NEEDS OUR HELP

T

he island of Borneo is on fire. There have been 94,000 fires in the last 3 months, 40 million people are now breathing in toxic air, many, especially children, are dying from Acute Respiratory Infections with the quality of air between 300 and 3900, when

the safe level is 50. Anything in this range is HAZARDOUS to everyone exposed. As the world’s oldest jungle burns, so do protected species including the orangutans – in certain parts, the orangutan conservation centers have lost touch with large populations of the primates. Approximately 10,000 orangutans have fled further into the jungle away from the fires – and it is feared that they could be burnt along with their habitat. On top of this, there is a massive water shortage, fire fighters are poorly equipped and volunteer fire fighters are going to help with nothing more than a bandana and flip flops. This could be the worst man-made disaster of the 21stcentury.

Every donation will help – whether it is to provide medical help or save an orang utan, money and supplies are needed desperately and all will be put to good use. http://www.gofundme.com/kalimantansmoke

An exciting new spa and healing complex coming up is called Heart. Hidden in the gorgeous garden grounds of the Agung Rai Museum of Art ( ARMA) this little spa is still going through developmental changes and until the soft opening in December, and the Grand Opening scheduled for March, guests can enjoy generous discounts on their specialty massages. Coming highly recommended is the “Glow with the Flow” treatment. This soothing neck and face massage combines with a pressure point facial to uplift facial contours, defining the jaw line and refining skin texture. The head massage clears mental tension making way for greater clarity and creativity. All the therapists work through a chi gung program before they start to work and help to get the guest’s energies flowing smoothly.

More treatments can be checked on their website. www.heartspabali.com T: 081 239 777 598 Heart Spa at beautiful ARMA, Pengosekan 14 UbudLife

photo courtesy of byorn vaughn

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WINNING

music. For those who want to brush up on their wine knowledge, the Wine Tasting Masterclasses with sommelier Antoine are always fun and informative.

WINE WAYS by stephanie

G

one are the days when wine lovers had to ration every last drop of that precious duty-free bottle. Ubud is now awash in sweet spots to have a good glass of vino. From breezy rooftop hangouts to romantic riverside settings, these are our picks for top places to do some serious sipping.

Bridges

With seven levels spilling down the side of a ravine overlooking the Wos River, Bridges Bali makes for a scenic setting to indulge in fine gourmet cuisine and wine.

It doesn’t hurt that they also have one of the best wine cellars on the island with a carefully curated selection of Old and New World bottles at prices to fit all budgets. Head here between 4pm and 7pm to sample imported wines for just IDR 60,000++ per glass, or come for Divine Fridays when they offer five wines at special prices, complimentary canapés and live acoustic

Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud, Bali (next to Museum Antonio Blanco) T: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com

Café Des Artistes

The Belgians know a thing or two about good food and wine, which is why Belgianowned Café des Artistes has been a go-to spot for foodies and tipplers since it opened in 2003. Grab one of the comfy cushioned seats indoors amid local artworks or outdoors on the patio, and dig into dishes like the Escargots Bourguignonne, Salade Nicoise or Lamb Medallions “Dijonnaisse” paired with a glass, carafe or bottle of red or white from wine-growing regions as far reaching as France, Italy, Spain, California, Argentina, Australia and New Zealand. They also serve up one of the best steak dinners in town. What’s that you say?

A thick juicy tenderloin steak paired with a big fat glass of Shiraz? Yes please.

Jl. Bisma 9X, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com

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CONCOCTIONS

Kebun Bistro Old World ambiance abounds at this chic Provencal-style bistro where you could while away hours sipping and snacking. You can cool off inside in air-conditioned comfort, although we prefer to sit on the garden patio and do a spot of people watching.

The wine list here includes a great selection of wines by the glass from Australia, Chile and California, all at just IDR 65,000++, as well as enticing bottles like Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand and Stag’s Leap Petite Sirah from Napa Valley. Throw in a few tapas like the Arancini Balls or Farmer’s Board with imported meats, cheeses and olives, and you’ve got your afternoon made.

Jl. Hanoman 44, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 4792077 www.kebunbistro.com

Hujan Locale

Chef Will Meyrick has become somewhat of a household name in the Southeast Asian foodie scene with four wildly successful restaurants under his belt including Sarong and Mama San in Seminyak, E&O Jakarta, and now Hujan Locale right here in Ubud.

At Hujan Locale the space is fresh and modern with huge wooden shutters that can be flung open to allow breezes to flow in, cushy banquette seating and intimate candlelit tables. The menu focuses on authentic Indonesian dishes from across the archipelago, all of which can be paired with fine wines that have been chosen to complement the vibrant flavours of the food.

Jl. Sri Wedari 5, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 8493092 www.hujanlocale.com

Mozaic

As one of most lauded finedining restaurants in all of Bali (and Southeast Asia for that matter), it should come as no surprise that awardwinning Mozaic has a superb wine list that is on par with their modern gastronomic creations. In fact, Mozaic was awarded the Wine Spectator Award of Excellence for their interesting vintages and selections that pair perfectly with the cuisine. Of course, a tasting menu with wine

pairings will definitely set you back a few, but the service, ambiance, flavours and expertise are worth every penny.

Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 975768 www.mozaic-bali.com

Black Beach

When the sun is beating down and the crowds and traffic are heaving, the covered rooftop terrace at Black Beach makes for an idyllic escape. It may be a bit of a trek up the stairs along the side of the building, but when you get to the top, you will be rewarded with bird’s eye views over the rooftops of Ubud, and on clear days as far as Mount Batur, Mount Agung and the ocean.

Let the cool breezes wash over you as you sip on a glass of Prosecco or Pinot Grigio and enjoy delicious Italian fare like bruschetta, gnocchi, pastas and pizzas. You can opt for local or South African red and white wines by the glass, as well as 15 imported bottles to choose from, all at very reasonable prices.

Jl. Hanoman 5, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 971353 www.blackbeach.asia These are wineries to suit all tastes, so try to find one that suits you!

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PURIFICATION

Melukat at Sebatu an early morning cleansing by jill alexander • images ayu sekar

us that the waters are very special and that “if you are sick, it will lessen your illness, better than any medicine.” Well maybe it is true, and certainly worth a try.

My two companions quickly changed and waded into the frigid waters, walking carefully along the stone bottom to the gushing waters. I was more prudent and took my time. They reached the large stone wall and proceeded to put their heads and then bodies under the icy torrets. The early morning sun sent its first rays over the tree tops, illuminating the gorgeous scene.

“first you clean your body then you clear your mind with prayer” Early morning at the Sebatu Genah Melukat – a beautiful river side temple on the remote Dadap River that torrents down from the Kintamani area. We wind down myriad steep stone steps on the side of the mountain, passing through stands of green bamboo and palm trees descending to the pristine river below. The cool early morning air made breathing a pleasure.

Gingerly, I entered the water, walking slowly to adjust to the cold. After my knees began to numb, I decided that gushing torrents could wait for another day and merely splashed a little of the healing waters on my head, leaving my companions to enjoy the full treatment.

We were the first to arrive as we chose a quiet day. It can get very busy, especially on weekends and holy days, like Purnama, or full moon. It was queit, the only sounds were birdsong and the sound of the rushing waters.

After prayer and a little meditation, we ascended the other stairway, stopping at the truly delightful Sebatu Café. A place designed for relaxation, it looks out over the natural valley, undisturbed by villas or any sign or development, save one tall and lonely Telkom tower. Even in Paradise we need a signal for our phones, although I suspect, it was probably even more beautiful before these modern innovations.

Some groups bring their own priest (mangku) others come alone. We came alone and it was wonderful. Our Balinese friend told

Westerners are also welcome to come and enjoy the experience. It is a wonderful thing to do in Bali.

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by jenny b • images ayu sekar

Christmas is rapidly approaching, and what better place to settle your gift list than Ubud, with its myriad shops brimming with fascinating barangbarang. If the prospect of buying the perfect gift for family and friends doesn’t enthrall you, we share a few ideas to give you inspiration.

Around the world, the taste of Christmas is strongly influenced by the spices of Indonesia’s ‘Spice Islands’ that countries fought over 500 years ago. Mince pies and Christmas puddings will positively zing with fresh-from-source spices that haven’t been sitting on supermarket shelves forever. So head to the market for handfuls of nutmeg, mace, cloves, cinnamon bark and vanilla pods to inspire. Bundles of vanilla and cinnamon tied with red ribbon, and clove-studded orange pomanders make wonderful gifts and spicy decorations. If you’d like inspiration on how to use these spices for a taste of Bali back home, do pick up Janet De Neefe’s award-winning cookery book Bali: the Food of My Island Home. Her batik tablecloths, runners and napkins – available in the Emporium next to Casa Luna on Jl. Raya Ubud – will also bring a Balinese aesthetic to any festive feast.

You can feel equally virtuous buying Primo raw chocolate, traditionally made from the finest organic cocoa beans grown with integrity by smallholders in the mountains of Bali, whose welfare is Italian owner Pepe Verdacci’s prime concern. The range includes kafir lime, mace, rosemary and – my favourite – chili. Why not pop their pure raw chocolate drops into the kids’ stocking instead of those sugar-laden santas and coins. The artisanal cold pressed chocolate bars are an adult indulgence; pack in your check-in luggage though; my chocolate addiction ensured mine didn’t make it beyond check-in.

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The organic chocolate body scrub made by Toko Paras on Jl. Monkey Forest is also another gift that might not make it; I’d buy it for a girlfriend and then ‘accidentally’ keep it for myself. Toko Paras is my ‘go to’ place for aromatherapy oils and spa products – all divinely packaged with goldstamped Bali motifs. Their room diffusers – the only natural ones I have found in Bali – will guarantee a fragrant festive season. The same goes for Blue Stone Botanicals’ aromatherapy mists, handmade with essential oils and pure rainwater collected from volcanic mountain slopes; their ylang-ylang & spice mist will bring a hint of the tropics to temperate rooms.

For beautiful skin products and the best natural bath salts around, head straight to Botanica, also in Jl Monkey Forest. This gorgeous company supplies spas and villas as well as personal shoppers. As well as high quality essential

SHOPPING oils, their bath salts and skin cremes are almost too good to give away. Try their Cleopatra Rose for a quick trip to heaven. You can be sure of their high quality as they are internationally certified.

With spices and chocolate already purchased, you’ve the makings of a great Christmas hamper for foodies and Masterchef fanatics. Time to visit Confiture Michelle on Jl. Goutama for an array

of French-recipe jams – all home-made using both tropical and traditional fruit and local cane sugar. Their tamarillo & chili jam would give the traditional cranberry jelly a run for its money, while the spicy soursop would add an exotic and healthy dash to any breakfast table… especially when served in a beautifully designed condiment set purchased from Nava Bali Ceramics, which has

a fabulous range of kitchen utensils and tableware crafted in ceramic and teakwood – all very Conran. More contemporary tableware and decorative items can be found at Kevala a hop and skip away.

I covet the pineapple plate in their Baturiti botanical print collection made for Hujan Locale restaurant; Hold it, admire it, own it is their motto; so true!

A little silver something always makes a great gift and both he Yin stores on Jl. Monkey Forest, Dewi Sita and Hanoman, and the

Studio Perak stores offer very affordable and very adorable silver jewellery – perfect for girls of all ages. You may also like to gift a silver making workshop course for an interested recipient.

One of Ubud’s ost iconic shops would have to be Bambooku where you can find a whole range of delightful bamboo products as well as bamboo cloth dresses, scarves and teeshirts. This beautiful fabric feels like silk and keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. Also grab some bamboo powder for teeth and lots of other intriguing treasures. In Jl Hanoman, left side heading south.

And do remember to pick up some festive decorations to deck the halls. Lightweight and easy to pack, strings of pressed aluminium stars, hearts and angels add sparkle to the Christmas tree and UbudLife 31

by individuals from the Sepik area of Papua New Guinea.

Dypt in nearby Jl. Goutama holds a fabulous collection of tribal textiles and specially designed hand printed and dyed scarves from India.

Watch out for their stunning hand cast and polished bronze cutlery sets if you want all your celebrations to come at once. And I’d think all my turkeys had come home to roost if I found absolutely anything from Threads of Life under the Christmas tree. make fine festive garlands.

Stroll down Jl. Hanoman and Dewi Sita and you’ll see them hanging in many souvenir shops. Alternatively, head up the Andong road to Absolute Bali, and pick up some decorative boxes too for creative gift presentation.

While there, you’ll probably pass a few shops exclusively dedicated to Christmas – so if you’ve a limitless luggage allowance, you might want to adopt a family of Rudolph32 UbudLife

red reindeer candle-holders; and if you’re shipping back a container, you could even stretch to the larger-thanlifesize driftwood one!

Finally, just in case my nearest and dearest is listening, what’s top of my ‘admire it, own it’ list? Please Santa, bring me one of Ewa Oceanic Sepik Gallery’s stunning tribal necklaces, designed around authentic adornments owned and used

This magnificent not-forprofit Fairtrade organization uses the proceeds from the sale of their exquisite collection of textiles and baskets in its Jalan Kajeng gallery to establish weaving cooperatives, revive and revitalize traditions that are in danger of disappearing, educate and empower women in over 35 cooperative groups from Kalimantan to Timor.

Now isn’t that the best gift of all?

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BALIFREEMAP

12TH EDITION (DECEMBER - FEBRUARY 2016) From Denpasar, we reach across the island - everywhere in bali! make your advertising dollar go further and be seen on our new big Bali Map!

For further information and advertising bookings: PERSADA MEDIA PUBLISHING - BALI P: [0361] 8447982, 8495479 • M: 081139 4755 • E: putu@persadamediapublishing.com

ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance legong telek women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

tue

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 5.30 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

TIPS

pura protocol

Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously.

Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

words • image ayu sekar

These gorgeous young boys are all active players in a gamelan orchestra that was seen in Batuan. It is so good to know that boys are still following in their fathers footsteps.

The Origin of Spa in Bali Traditional Massages and Concoctions by jean couteau • cartoon wayan sadha

with a medical doctor. Now, according to her mother, after only three visits to Pan Tanggul, she already shows signs of improvement.

Pan Tanggul is "massaging". But his massage is a special one. He is trying to "catch" from "within" the bebainan power that is holding sway over the girl's mind. In other words she is deemed possessed.

Pan Tanggul is a traditional healer, a balian usada.

He mostly uses massages and concoctions to treat his patients. Even though he does not rely exclusively on mantras as balian tetakson would do, he nevertheless insists that his healing powers were bestowed upon his from the world "over there", the niskala. He did not "ask" to become a healer, he says, but it came upon him following an accident. As he explains it, he fell from a coconut tree and was badly injured. He broke his hip and tibia. He was immediately taken to Denpasar's main hospital in Sanglah. There, he was not allocated not a room, but a mere bunk on an outside verandah with many other patients, complete with pee stench and the shouts and whimpers of the dying. It is when he was in such a miserable state that a strange dream came to him in the middle of the night. An old man in white appeared before him and spoke these words.

"Hey, Tanggul, I can give you the power to heal your broken bones but do not remain here, unless you want to die." So Pan Tanggul collected his clothes and sheets and, with his wife's help, took the path back to his house. There, the old man revisited him in many more dreams and each time gave him the secret of a magic medicines. After the secrets of the medicines had been passed down to him, he he used the medicines on himself, massaging himself, and after a few months, he was fit and completely healed. The news of his magical healing quickly spread through the village, and the villagers pestered him with demands for massages and advice.... Since that day, Pan Tanggul has been a famous balian healer, as witnessed today by the long line of cars in front of his house.

At least it was her parents' conclusions after numerous unsuccessful attempts at healing

Pan Tanggul works with massaging oil as well as ointments the exact composition of which is a secret.

I

t is a small damp room with a modest bunk in the corner. A middle-aged man, sitting on a small bamboo chair, is massaging a patient.

His hand lightly touches the smooth body of the woman on the bunk. His fingers stop to knead the skin. The woman is emitting short incoherent shrieks, while the man carries on his task under the watchful eyes of the young patient's mother.

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TRADITIONS He says that massaging is his way to expel the evil magical power, which lies beneath the skin Yet, for ordinary treatments, Pan Tanggul also uses the traditional boreh poultice, usually prepared by his wife. It consists of a mix of spicy ingredients such as of kunyit (turmeric), cekuh (kaempferia galanga), jahe (ginger), isen (alpinia galanga), bawang merah (shallot), bawang putih (garlic), lombok (chili), and so forth. She simply puts these ingredients in a stone mortar and pounds them with a pestle.

She puts the resulting mix to dry in the sun before storing it in a coconut shell.

Pan Tanggul explains that such boreh has multiple uses. An aging woman will apply boreh on her body to keep it warm, whereas a worn out farmerworker with a stomachache or a cold will have his wife rub him with boreh. Pan Tanggul gives his wife's boreh to his patients so that they can apply it themselves after his massage, once back home.

Yet, before applying boreh, he says, it has to be mixed first with some water and thus turned into a thick past. It can then be rubbed all over the whole body or on specific parts, such as the forehead, the back of the ear, the stomach. Gradually, the warmth will diffuse inside the body and, after some time, best of all after a sleep, the patient will feel fresher and fitter. If the patient has fever, though, other ingredients, such as shallot, and coconut oil, should be added. In any case, the lower part of the stomach, or the sisikan, always demands special attention. More boreh has to be rubbed on it, and more cautiously. Age has also to be taken into account.

Boreh prepared for adult people may contain more and stronger ingredients than the one given to children. It may include substances, such as jahe (ginger), cengkeh (clove) and even white merica (pepper). So it feels very hot when it penetrates the skin.

Pan Tanggul's range of healing power goes well beyond mental disturbance. He can heal people with broken bones or displaced joints, and he is famous for helping barren women conceive. In such cases, what he massages is the patient's lower abdomen, and he uses a different type of ointment, made from fruits such as delima (pomegranate), kakap (?) and kem (flacourtia rukam).

When patients visit Pan Tanggul, there is no compulsory payment. It is the "Balinese way" which prevails. They just bring a small canang offering with a sesari or "payment" proper, which they slip casually underneath the offering. The sesari may be a simple Chinese coin or an amount of money, the sum of which can

vary considerably from one patient to the next. It depends on the person’s means and sense of gratitude. But in such circumstances, the Balinese would rather display over-generosity than stinginess.

Before he starts treating his patients, Pan Tanggul will first offer the canang offering to Surya, the Sun God and to the god to whom he owes his healing power --which is usually enshrined in his private family temple.

Once Pan Tanggul has healed a patient, a strong bond is for ever established between the two parties. The patient, or his/ her family, will never miss to make regular visits. These visits are not for him alone, though, they also concern Pan Panggul's god of reference --the "Taksu" deity to whom he owes his healing ability.

Ex-patients come never fail to pay their respect and bring "reminder" offerings --banten pekeling--to this "Taksu". If they forget, a relapse or another illness or misshap may befall them. Most also come for the same reason on Saraswati day, the day dedicated to the goddess of knowledge, which comes on the last day of the Balinese 210day year.

Health and illness are indeed more than simply a matter of human life and judgment.

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FRESH! SPA AD

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50 UbudLife photo courtesy of epicvamder.com

LIFE IN BALI

, BALI S RIVER PEOPL E by ibu kat

B

ali’s steep ravines are home to more than pythons, luwak and giant monitor lizards. This is also the domain of the Tonya or River People – communities of spirits which move between the dim, tree-clad river banks and the villages where humans reside.

This is the magical realm of Niskala, Bali’s unseen world.

The Balinese, especially the older ones, have a healthy respect for the spirit world.

They love to tell ghost stories about the Tonya.

“Everything has its own place, and boundaries must be clear in order to have a peaceful life in Bali,” explained Padangtegal community leader Kadek Gunarta.

“Ceremonies to ‘open the land’ take place to relocate spirits before building begins.

“But with all this development the spirits are being squeezed into smaller areas. This creates an imbalance. The Balinese are experiencing a lot of social and economic tension these days, and that is surely being reflected in the Niskala. There is imbalance in the Spirit World; we are taking over their space. In the rush to build, ceremonies are sometimes not done. Rivers are the highways and homes of the Tonya. Now the riverbanks are being built on and some villas don’t even have a padma or house temple; no offerings are made. Rivers are polluted with garbage.” No wonder the Tonya are becoming unhappy.

The Tonya look just like humans except they lack the indentation between the nose and the upper lip. They lead parallel lives to humans and sometimes move among them. The Tonya can be

mischievous and sometimes downright alarming.

They are said to be more active during the day.

“As a kid I used to hear them play the river like an instrument,” said writer and musician Ketut Yuliarsa. “They would bang their hands on the water, making real music with many notes. The Tonya were blamed for children disappearing. When I was young it was quite common for kids to go missing from their homes for several hours and be found wandering in the rice fields.”

Then there are the Memedi, hairy red humanoids that dwell in big trees and bamboo groves close to villages. They were also said to steal children, and parents threatened their kids with the Memedi to make them behave.

Tuyul are naughty child spirits. A foreigner who built a house in Pejeng between the river and the road found that all kinds of things would be broken in the house during the night, and Tuyul were blamed. A small ceremony and their own offering place in the garden ended the disturbances.

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Another foreign woman built her house near a river in Ubud. She’s seldom here and the house is usually empty (never a good thing in Bali, by the way). On her last trip odd things began to happen at night. She was woken several times with a heavy hand on her throat, and a massive teak table was overturned in her room. She moved into a home stay nearby while a balian (Balinese shaman) was summoned. He told her that before she’d built her house a large tree on the property had been cut down. The appropriate offerings were not made, and the spirits (probably Tonya) who lived there were now homeless.

This was quickly addressed with a ceremony and there were no more problems.

A Balinese tells me that her relative toyed with this dangerous practice, and under the influence of the magic saw his sleeping grandchildren appear as succulent roast piglets. The Leyak are associated with death; they haunt graveyards and practice cannibalism. Appearing as ordinary humans by day, they transform into flying monsters by night.

A friend has a huge tree on her land, and several people have seen a female spirit there. When the tree requires pruning it’s done with the greatest respect and many offerings.

It wouldn’t be surprising if the increasingly irritated River Spirits began to take enforcement into their own unseen hands.

Related are the Lulut Mas, a seething pile of yellow worms that appear in front of gates or near water sources and indicate uncleanness. Lulut Mas are the only manifestations of Niskala that seem to exist in the physical realm.

Cultural scholar I Made Surya told me about a friend of his who wanted to build on a small piece of family land on the river Oongan in Denpasar. Before he started he brought in a Mangku who specialised in Tonya, just in case there might be an issue.

The Mangku detected no fewer than 5,000 Tonya and kindly negotiated with them until they agreed to move to a tree across the river if a purification ceremony as done. A week later when the offerings were brought (there are 216 special offerings for unseen beings), the big tree across the river spontaneously burst into flame and burned to the ground.

There are new regulations against building along the edges of rivers (Sempadan Sungai) but these are increasingly ignored.

Big old trees, home of ancient spirits, are being cut down and buildings are constructed right on the banks of the rivers.

Then there are the Dete or Moro, which can take the form of real or mythical animals, or may resemble the carved stone temple guardians.

Before encountering one, humans may notice a strange smell.

Leyak are humans who practice black magic and can take the form of animals.

photo courtesy of en.wikipedia.org

A Juicy Tale by stephanie

After all that holiday indulgence, we’re willing to bet that eating healthy is at the top of your New Year’s resolution list. For those who can’t fathom the idea of subsisting on salads alone, juicing is a great way to pack in the nutrients and clean out the system all in one go.

Whether you’re looking for tasty concoctions to add to any meal or going for a full-on juice cleanse, these are some of the best spots in Ubud offering fresh healthy juices.

Juice Ja

Juice Ja prides itself on offering fresh healthy food and drinks made with organic produce from their very own farm just outside of Ubud.

Grab a seat at one of the reclaimed wood tables downstairs or upstairs and kick start your system with a fresh young coconut, shot of wheatgrass, or a pure extracted health elixir.

The juice selection includes healing options like the Immune Boost with apple, beet, carrot and orange, and the JJ Tamu with turmeric, lemon and honey. They also offer lassis and milkshakes, as well as delicious sandwiches, salads and baked goods. Want to try replicating their juices at home? Check out their health food corner for locally sourced organic food products to take away like pure Bali honey, fresh mulberries and soymilk.

Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 971056 56 UbudLife

Kafe

A popular spot with the crunchy granola and yoga set, Kafe is renowned for their excellent selection of vegan and vegetarian fare, as well as their pure extracted and squeezed juices.

Try the Vitamin C Blast With a Twist, which features orange, carrot, pineapple, papaya and basil, or go for the Vibrant Green Tonic with kale, celery, parsley, cucumber, ginger, lime and coconut water. Their non-dairy shakes are also divine like the Super Anti-Oxidant Shake with banana, raw cacao, flax oat, honey, coconut milk and soymilk. If you’re still feeling peckish after all that juice, you can dig into dishes like the Crunchy Beetroot & Walnut Salad, Organic Red Rice Nasi Goreng, or Raw Mixed Berry Cheesecake.

Jl. Hanoman 44B, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 479 2078 www.balispirit.com/kafe

HEALTHY LIVING

Clear Cafe

Recently relocated to a hot new spot overlooking the dramatic Gunung Lebah temple and the gently flowing Wos River, Clear Cafe is oh-so popular with health nuts, foodies and sight-seers alike. For the best views, make your way up the rainbow steps to the top floor, where you will find huge openair windows that let the breezes flow in. The tonics, elixirs and juices here were created with health benefits in mind, like the Glittery Gold with orange citrus, sea salt, aloe and honey to promote relaxation, and the Electro Berry with strawberry, mulberry, lemon and ginger to boost electrolytes. They also have super anti-oxidant packed Power Drinks made with moringa, noni or jiaogulan, but be warned – these are great for the body, but not so much the taste.

Jl. Campuhan, Ubud, Bali (across from the Antonio Blanco Museum) T: 0878 62197585 www.clear-cafe-ubud.com

Alchemy

As the island’s first 100 per cent raw vegan cafe, salad bar and juice bar, plus a raw chocolaterie, health food store and holistic clinic, Alchemy is the epicentre for those seeking healthy vibes and some serious clean eating. All of the juices here are made with organic fruits and veggies sourced from local farms nearby, and you can choose from an extensive menu of colourful health cocktails or concoct your own creation.

They also have an enticing salad bar offering up an array of raw greens, herbs, seasoned nuts, curried veggies and more. Be sure to finish your meal off with one of their luxurious raw chocolate truffles.

Jl. Penestanan Klod, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 971981 www.alchemybali.com

Soma

Located on Jl. Gootama, Soma is a funky little hole-in-the-wall spot that serves up organic fare with a focus on raw and vegan cuisine.

Start off with a hydrating elixir that is both tasty and healing like the Ojas Builder with dates, cardamom, honey, cinnamon, warm cashew and coconut milk, or the Belly Love Juice with aloe vera, ginger, turmeric, kencur, mint, tulsi, lime and honey. For light bites you can choose from healthy salads, wraps, or raw soups, or dig into heartier mains like grilled fish or vegetarian curry. For a quick and intense health boost, try downing a shot of spicy daikon.

Jl. Goutama, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 8493655 UbudLife 57

hilippe anssens by richard horstman • images ayu sekar

Human beings are compelled to make art. This need is a basic urge that is as natural as sex and social interaction. Art gifts us opportunities to be inspired, become more educated and aware, as well as allowing insights into the thoughts and feelings of our fellow man. Most of us have experienced the creative and personally enriching potential of art, however often we are not fully aware of all of the ways that art can benefit our lives. Art offers unique therapeutic benefits to both the practitioner and the observer, and while people may not find relief in talking about their traumatic experiences they often are able to communicate aspects of their ordeal through artistic expression.

For some, such as expat Bali resident Philippe Janssens, art is a multidimensional experience, which has become an essential way of life.

“I can never forget the first time I saw art, the famous rock paintings in the Lascaux Caves in South Western France,” Philippe says. “I was just a young boy, yet the prehistoric images communicated directly with my inner core.” Born in Belgium in 1946, Philippe was raised in a creative, yet unsettled home environment. “I grew up around music, my mother was a gypsy who loved singing and playing musical instruments.

From an early age I had a fascination with music and drawing, and I also began to paint.”

58 UbudLife

Aged 16 Philippe left Europe for America, living first in the Bronx, New York City, finding work wherever he could. Later he settled in Oakland California.

“Initially living in the States, learning a new culture and language was very challenging – I had trouble fitting in.” He began working with a master flamenco guitar maker, a difficult man, with very high standards. “I eventually understood that in order to achieve excellent sound I had to create perfect instruments. You must pour your heart, soul and emotion into the process.”

During his early 20’s Philippe was enlisted in the US Army and sent to fight in the Vietnam War. After 7 months he returned home with head injuries - the experience, he admits, has had a major impact upon his life. Philippe’s recovery is an on going process and his painting has evolved into a vital mode of self-healing. In 1995 Philippe first visited Bali after spending 2 years in the Philippines. He worked as a jewellery designer for a few years before returning to California for a year, while developing a successful jewellery business, his designs being produced by Balinese silversmiths that he would sell at markets and fairs in California. In 1998 he returned to live permanently in Bali and began teaching local silversmiths Mokume Game – a Japanese metalworking procedure of

WHO’S WHO folding and layering different metals together, the end result being jewellery with distinctive decorative patterns. “I felt fulfilled through teaching and sharing my designs as I was contributing to the development of the art form here in Bali.”

Ten years ago Philippe met his Balinese wife to be at a temple ceremony in Kintamani, they purchased some land and built a small house near the river in Sukawati, and since then Sarini has been a strong and grounding influence in his life. Together they sponsor a teenage girl from a poor family. “She has become just like my daughter, and brings lots of love into my life,” he says.

“During all my travels I have always been searching for a place where I felt comfortable. Here in Bali I feel more at home than anywhere else that I have lived.”

Philippe met many Balinese painters and became inspired by one who worked outside of the traditional conventions, and together they formed a small art collective along with other local artists. Until today he continues making musical instruments, building his own special designs - hybrids of traditional wooden instruments – and both local and foreign music connoisseurs sought out his expertise. Yet Philippe must scrutinize each person before he consents to the

task. “I love to make instruments for people who, above all, are passionate about their music.

I will not make them for everyone.”

For the past year Philippe has been preparing a body of paintings for exhibiting in 2015.

In September he showcased 20 works in Ubud for his ‘Black & White Exhibition’ at the Kupu Kupu Art Space. Having painted since he can remember Philippe has explored numerous styles and techniques and exhibited numerous times. Dynamic colours characterized his recent expressionistic works, for this exhibition however, he reduced

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his palette down to the core, communicating via black, white and grey.

Philippe’s works are minimal in structure and feature flowing black lines that contrast with planes of colour, and combine to create eye catching, suggestive shapes. Drawing on abstract and surreal imagery his spontaneous and intuitive depictions are expressive feelings from his inner world. Mysterious organic and mechanical forms complete with facial features, distorted limbs and torsos come to life expressing an array of emotions.

The opposition of black against white creates powerful visual tension, while his use of grey often adds a calming sensation.

60 UbudLife

his palette down to the core, His arrangements of positive and negative shapes grant his compositions harmony and balance. Philippe has no wish to create pretty pictures, and some of this imagery is not be for the faint hearted. His raw and honest paintings touch on dark, tribal and enigmatic symbols drawn from within the depths of his subconscious mind.

Offering few words of explanation about his work Philippe, on the other hand, is fascinated by his audiences’ imaginative responses. “It’s very satisfying to listen to other people’s interpretations of my art work. Art has no singular meaning it’s about sharing.

An essential part of modern art is the observer’s participation.” He does, however, have this to say.

“Many events in my past come back to haunt me, especially my experience in Vietnam. I confront these issues on canvas, as I have done for many years, believing that both myself, and paintings gradually improve with time.

The idea is to place my trauma into the paintings and then it is outside of me. Memories contain energy and I transfer this into my paintings. I am soul mining, and in essence I am setting myself free.

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64 UbudLife

Ayung Resort

Nacho Mama

Putri Bali Spa

Kopi Kat

Bintang Super Market

Wayan Karja

Terracota

Sri Ratih & Spa

Skin Spa

Villa Beji

Warung Merta Sari

Bali Healing Griya

Nani Spa

We’ar

Kebun

Bambooku Rainbow Spirit Warung Sopa

Milano Spa Down To Earth Cendana

Kopi Coffee Nomad Sensatia Nirmala La Bohéme BPD Wr Siam Skin Biah Biah Fresh Soma Bali Star Coffee Yin

Ubud Sari Health Resort

Sang Spa

SenS

Red Lotus

White Box

Gunung Merta Bungalow

Terrace Abing Resort

Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery

WORLD MAP

Villa Beji Indah

Sisi

Garden Sopa

Pilar Batu

ISLAND OF BALI

Kafe Topi

Taman Beji Spa

Biah-Biah+

Arma Museum Arma Rsort

UBUD

Sari Api Greenfield Buddha Bowl Goddess Jaens Spa Panorama Pizza Bagus

The Pond Damar

Sisi+Nanan Putri Ubud Spa

Sang Spa

Studio Perak

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, lies in the heart of Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists also apply their skills to making attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to view and temples and wonderous sights to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

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Saba Asri

Tu r t l e C o n s e v a t i o n C e n t e r by richard horstman • images ayu sekar

The oceans and seas surrounding Indonesia’s more than 17,000 islands, are home to six of the world’s seven sea turtle species. Dubbed “the gardeners of the sea” turtles are an essential link in marine ecosystems and help sustain the health of coral reefs and sea grass beds that are at the core of the ocean’s food chain.

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CONSERVATION

C

urious big dark eyes mark small heads protruding from bodies encased by large round protective shells. Four powerful “wing” like fins propel turtles through the water, like birds in flight. These streamlined and remarkable reptiles are capable of diving down hundreds feet to feed and being cold blooded, they have the ability to slow down their metabolism so that they can survive several months without food. Migrating turtles travel thousands of kilometers each year and after 35 years, females return annually to their birthplace. On returning, they drag themselves up the sandy beaches beyond the high tide mark, dig a nest and lay about 100 soft, small eggs, before returning to the water. Millions of years ago, when the nearest creature to a human was a primate that could barely stand on two legs, turtles were already thriving in the planet’s oceans. Nowadays, however, the situation is vastly different. The World Wildlife Foundation has classified turtles as endangered species.

Both on the land and in the ocean, the turtle’s habitat is continually being threatened.

Uncontrolled development, along with the construction of rock break walls to protect against erosion on the southern and eastern coast lines of Bali equates to the loss of their local nesting habitats. Pollution, especially plastic, which may be consumed or entangle them, along with destructive fishing methods also endangers them. Turtle meat is considered a delicacy and locally becomes satay or lawar (a Balinese ceremonial dish of meat and blood mixed with various spices and coconut).

Lucrative international Asian markets are the destination for most of the turtles channeled through the black market in Tanjung Benoa, Bali’s major fishing harbor. The turtle trade in Bali peaked in 1978 when as many as 30,000 turtles were reported to have arrived in the harbor, and even though the trade has decreased, consumption continues on a smaller scale. The numbers may be smaller, but turtles from all over Indonesia are still available on the black market in southern Bali.

The green turtle, named for the greenish color of their cartilage and fat, valued for its meat, and the hawksbill, named for its narrow pointed beak, prized for its shell, are the two most common species in Bali, and also the most popular for trade. Green turtle feeding grounds such as sea grass beds are at risk from coastal development onshore, which leads to pollution and sedimentation in the nearby waters. The hawksbill has a beautiful, distinctively patterned brown and yellow shell making them a highly valuable commodity, sold in markets across Asia and the Pacific.

According to Balinese Hindu mythology the penyu (turtle) is a sacred animal symbolizing the foundation supporting the earth and all its life. Bedawang Nala, the world turtle is believed to dwell in the underworld, where it carries the planet on its back. Most species of turtles were given protected status under Indonesian law between 1978 and 1996. In 2005 the highest Hindu body of Indonesia, declared that the presence of endangered species, including turtles, in Hindu sacrificial rituals could be UbudLife 67

substituted with a drawing, cake, or another animal.

As a witness concerned by the decline in the turtle population in the ocean that he has frequented daily since being a child, Made Kiki, a fisherman from the village of Saba, located on the coast south of Ubud, became inspired to create positive change. In 2007 Made began learning about turtle conservation and started a small self-funded operation in his own backyard. Little by little, donations came in and he was able to keep his dream and many turtles, alive. During the nesting months of March to August each year, Made, along with a few other dedicated members of his village, each morning scour the local beaches to find the eggs and save them from scavenging humans and dogs who consume them for food. With a donation from the Gianyar Regency, they were able build the basic infrastructure for the Saba Asri Turtle Conservation Center, officially opened in 2013. The center consists of storerooms and sheltered holding tanks along with an incubation facility on land adjacent to the beach that has been donated by the government.

Other community members collect eggs and sell them to the Saba Asri for IDR 3.000,68 UbudLife

each, Made then places all the eggs in a natural incubator within a protective enclosure, burying them in about 50 centimeters of sand where they stay 40-50 days. With his close knowledge of the process he can estimate the hatching time almost to the day. When the tukik (hatchlings) are born they are placed in a pond with the other turtles and fed prawns or freshly caught fish and their growth is monitored.

After 3 months the turtles are then released back into their natural habitat.

Each morning Made, along with other Saba Asri volunteers, arrive early to begin their chores. Feeding the turtles must be done twice a day. Due to the limited income and the high operational costs of running the centre, there are only enough funds for one

feeding per day. The turtles therefore get so hungry, that they start to attack each other, and unfortunately the death rate is high. The Saba Asri Turtle Conservation Center needs outside donations of money, or equipment to help them survive. A recent ongoing program of turtle releasing has begun and is available to all members of the public, including tourists. You and your

friends can join with Made in this by releasing a turtle for a small donation of IDR 50.000.Emotional is the word to best describe the feeling of releasing a tiny baby turtle into the ocean.

Such an act of liberation is an experience that you will always remember, and for visitors to Bali will definitely be a highlight of your trip. To help promote Saba Asri media & P.R consultant and local villager, Ketut Rahmadiana dedicates time each week to the cause, recently featuring on radio and TV interviews, also networking with tourism and travel associations to publicize and organize visits.

To arrange your morning visit to the Saba Asri Turtle Conservation Center and participate in releasing turtles please contact Ketut on 0817565485

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LEGEND:

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Blimbingsari

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Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

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Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

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Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

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Bat

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Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

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Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

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Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

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PURI WIRATA Dive Resort & Spa

Pengotan Penyebah

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BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Kayubihi

Ababi

Jemeluk Wall Amed Bunutan Reef Jemeluk Japanese Wreck Bunutan

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

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THE ART OF NOTHING Zeroing in on Bali Silent Retreat by jenny b

T

he sound of the gong slipped into the deepest recess of my slumbering mind and pulled me into awareness.

It was just before 6am and birdsong was beginning to cut through the inky-black stillness beyond my bed. Had I really slept for over 10 blissfulhours?

Five minutes later, cocooned in the warmth of a blanket (and feeling remarkably bright-eyed and bushy-tailed for such an early hour), I joined a circle of shadowy figures in the flickering candlelight of the Octagon for dawn meditation. And so started my first magical day at Bali Silent Retreat Bali Silent Retreat rises from a sea of rice terraces rolling towards the majestic Gunung BatuKaru, the sacred mountain that forms part of a string of volcanoes in Bali’s Tabanan regency. This extraordinary setting induces guests to turn inwards and settle into a slower rhythm in tune with a rural way of life unchanged over generations — and worlds away from Ubud’s bright lights - less than two hours’ drive away 72 UbudLife

Swapping noise for the ‘Art of Nothing’ is the promise of Bali Silent Retreat, which invites you to switch off, pull the plug, and go off-grid.Attracted by the idea of doing nothing but ‘eat, sleep, read and repeat’ as the website counsels, we booked for a few nights and were promptly picked up by Ketut in his Bali Silent Retreat shirt and liveried carfor the cross-country drive.

On arrival, we are greeted with welcoming smiles and a ‘goodie bag’ of bedding, kimono, towel, torch etc, and then briefed on etiquette and given a hushed orientationof the retreat. (In the words of one guest, Bali Silent Retreat is “a Western take on a spiritual yet non denominational ashram-style retreat”… you do your own washing up and make your own beds).

Spread out over four hectares, Bali Silent Retreat sits on the site of an ancient ashram founded with a temple by a Tabanan king in gratitude for the miraculous healing of his sick son by a priest. A vision drew Patricia to this holy spot after she received the “call” to build a silent retreat centre for prayer and meditation for all beliefs.

Interestingly, Patricia’s partners are descended from that original healer priest and foundation stones unearthed during construction are believed to be from the original ashram.

Bali Silent Retreat is green-to-the-extreme and sustainable.

Reclaimed teakwood pavilions to the rechargeable solar lights are all eco-c0nscious. Electricity in the common areas is generated from solar panels, and water comes from a rainwater catchment system, solar distillation set-up and on-site spring. Organic medicinal herbs and vegetable gardens, come with intelligent composting.

There is no prescribed programme here and a rich schedule of optional activities awaits. Twice-daily meditation and yoga classes, psychotherapy, massage, hikes to hot springs, tours of the organic gardens, and rice field walks are available, supplemented with workshops from visiting practitioners. As the rising sun cast its golden glow on the padi fields, sometimes, a private meditation is enough.

SLEEPOVERS Food is garden-to-table fresh.

Simon Jongenotter trains the kitchen angels in BumiBaru New Earth Cooking that aims to transform our relationship with food. At each meal I relished eating slowly and intentionally, savouring every mouthful while my eyes feasted on the rice terrace vista beyond my solo table. “The best food I’ve had in Bali is a constant accolade.

Bedroom time in the comfortable and attractively sparse with polished concrete floor, teakwood walls open at the top is also enjoyable. I chose to sleep with the curtains drawn back and the bamboo blinds raised to savour the night breeze.

Even for the loquacious, silence as I share quiet space with a dozen people, acknowledging their presence with a smile, yet resting within my own inner space. Being digitally disconnected was immensely freeing too; by not checking emails and messages, freed from distractions, I was inspired to reflect and reconnect on a deeper level.

I wrote, took jungle walks, snoozed in a hammock, leafed through esoteric books in the Lodge library, and stretched out on the medicine-garden’s star-bedbelow fireflies and shooting stars.The days were contemplative, spacious, full of presence.

Time goes fast, and I find myself reluctant to leave. Apparently a third of all guests extend their stay as they begin to transform, expand and find the inspiration to change their life.As one guest from Canada said, “Had I known how fantastic it would be, I would have booked a whole month”.

food to the rooms to the staff to whole magical layout of Bali Silent Retreat”.

Let me leave the last word with Sarah from the USA. “There is love and happiness packed into every single thing from the

A US$30 Day Pass covers food and programmes.

For information on Bali Silent Retreat, visit www. balisilentretreat.com Accommodation ranges from US$15 for a dormitory bed to US$90 for a private bungalow.

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74 UbudLife photo courtesy of david metcalft

OUT OF TOWN

Nusa Penida a different world - so near yet so far by jenny b • images david metcalft

D

riving through the desiccated brown hills of Nusa Penida’s hinterland, which is awash in dusty terraces, skeletal trees and crumbling deserted buildings, it is not so difficult to believe that this is a place where wild things roam… things that are perhaps of an eerie nature.

Technically part of Klungkung regency, Nusa Penida is a world of its own. Its arid landscape and towering limestone cliffs have more in common with the Bukit Peninsula than the rolling green hills and expansive black sand beaches of Klungkung, and its remote location and lack of arable land have long made it a place of exile for those who fell foul of the law (or out of favour with the king).

Moreover, this is the home of Ratu Gede Mecaling, a fearsome demon who has the power to inflict great evil and illness on not only the inhabitants of remote Nusa Penida, but also the whole of Bali. In fact, his shrine in Pura Ped is a huge pilgrimage site for Balinese who believe that if the sinister spirit is not treated with respect, disaster will surely follow.

Legends of the origins of Ratu Gede Mecaling vary, but most agree that he came to Bali from Java as a general during the Majapahit era. Once on the island, he was appointed leader of 500 wong samar (invisible spirits). He then went to Nusa Penida and meditated at Ped, where he was granted magical powers, including the ability to transform himself into a hideous demon with huge fangs (hence the name Mecaling, which comes the Balinese caling for fang).

Ratu Gede Mecaling (also known as Jero Gede Mecaling) was notorious for using his wong samar to wreak havoc in the form of disease, floods and other disasters. He was also known to support witches and others who sought to harness his powerful black magic. Although he was eventually subdued, many

believe that his spirit still lives on and can unleash its fury at will.

According to many Balinese, the coastlines of Badung and Gianyar are particularly susceptible to the demon’s wrath, as he can travel across the sea narrow sea between the two islands along with his evil spirits. Pantai Lebih, a black sand beach just a 15 to 20-minute drive from Ubud, is considered one of his prime landing spots.

In Miguel Covarrubias’ comprehensive book, Island of Bali, he says, “It is believed that the fanged demon from the little island of Nusa Penida, Djero Gede Mecaling, comes to Bali in the form of a fiery ball that, upon coming ashore, explodes into a thousand sparks that spread in all directions. As their glow dies, they release evil forces that go to spread illness and misfortune.

“This is a propitious time for leyaks to prey on human beings; because of the predominance of evil forces, the village is then magically weakened. The dogs gather at the crossroads and howl all night and the owls hoot, predicting deaths in the village. Quantities of offerings are made to placate the devils, and the UbudLife 75

76 UbudLife photo courtesy of david metcalft

benign spirits are implored to come down to earth, through the body of a medium to advise and protect the distressed community.�

Covarrubias goes on to describe spiritual dances called sanghyang dedari that involve two young girls, selected for their psychic powers, who fall into a trance and channel the gods to purify the village and send the evil spirits packing back to Nusa Penida. Although the author’s account is from the early 20th century, villages along the southeast coast of Bali still practice these dances today.

Another way to placate the destructive demon is to make offerings at his shrine at Pura Penataran Dalem Ped on Nusa Penida. Located along the northern shore of the island, the temple actually has four separate areas for cleansing, praying and blessings, each of which should be visited in succession.

Pura Ratu Gede is the third shrine on the temple route, and is easily recognizable by its ornate white stone gates decked out in black and white checked poleng cloths. Inside there are a number of sacred statues including two of the demon himself. While other parts of the temple have been

refurbished over the years, no one has dared touch these fearsome images, except to wrap them in sacred cloth and shower them with offerings.

Pilgrims come to Pura Ped to pray for good fortune, health and prosperity.

The temple is also a highly sought after spot for healers seeking to draw from the powers of the island and put them to good use in their healing practices, as well as those who can receive messages from the invisible world. Rumours also abound of nefarious types who visit the island to strengthen their own black magic. As a place generally considered angker (haunted or evil) by the Balinese, it may seem strange that so many converge on Nusa Penida to pray.

And with such a dreadful reputation as a vicious and vengeful force, Ratu Gede Mecaling may seem like an odd entity to go to for blessings of longevity and luck.

Ancient lontar (palm-leaf manuscripts) tell us that during the reign of Dalem Dukut in Nusa Penida, the kingdom of Klungkung was set on conquering the island.

Dalem Dukut fought hard against the invasions and was able to stave off two brutal attacks with the help of his minister, Ratu Gede Mecaling, and the wong samar. Then on the third invasion, general Gusti Jelantik Bogol managed to reign victorious using a special weapon made from the tooth of the Naga Basuki, one of the sacred mythical snakes entwined around the world turtle that makes up the foundation of the island of Bali.

Being defeated, Dalem Dukut agreed to incorporate Nusa Penida and its people into the Kingdom of Klungkung. However, he warned the victors that if they showed disrespect to Ratu Gede Mecaling and the wong samar, they would bring death and destruction to the land. On the other hand, if they treated them with honour, they could expect protection against maladies and misfortune.

It is for this reason that even to this day, the demon that inhabits Nusa Penida commands reverence from Balinese people from far and wide, and the island remains a critical component of many Balinese-Hindu spiritual pilgrimages.

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nEXT ISSUE image ayu sekar

AMED IN THE WET Even in the rain, Amed has a charm that cannot be denied!

Cheap and cheerfull eats in Ubud Nyepi the day of silence The pyramids of chi Yoga life in Ubud

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RESTAURANTS Bali Star Coffee Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 89671188648

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Ayung Resort Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Gunung Merta Bungalow Jl. Andong, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975463 Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com Terrace Abing Resort Banjar Kebon, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 980970 www.abingterrace.com

KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992

www.balistar-coffee.com

Kafe Topi Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com

NOMAD Jl. Raya Ubud 35, Ubud Phone: 0361 977169 www.nomad-bali.com

Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124

Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com

Bollero Bar & Resto Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972872 www.bollerobali.com Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com Damar Restaurant Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978374 Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 Warung Alami Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Phone: 081 23913754 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81239655905 Wijaya Kusuma Restaurant Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud www.kebunbistro.com

Cafe Havana Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972973 www.cafehavanabali.com

Kopi Coffee Ubud Market 2F, Ubud Phone: +62 89621071118 www.kopi-coffee.com

Damar Restaurant, Bar & Lounge Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978374 www.damar-resto.com UbudLife 79

SPAS Aura Theraphy Spa Ubud Aura Retreat Center Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 27997658 www.balihealingspa.com Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Kayma Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9100017 www.karmaspaubud.com Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 prs_milano@yahoo.com Sang Spa Jl. Raya Jembawan 13B, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277222 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277333 www.sangspaubud.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Gootama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

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Nani Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Hp: 082 3404 15848

SHOPS Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com La Boheme Jl. Goutama No.5, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792520 Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404 Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

GALLERIES Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com Tanah Tho Gallery Jl. Raya Lodtunduh, Ubud Phone: 0361 981482 www.tanahtho.com

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 www.sisibag.com SISI + NANAN Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Hp: 085 1007 65896 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 7801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hp: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com

SPORT/RECREATION

USEFUL NUMBERS Ambulance

Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.co

Airport Authority

Ubud Stables Desa Pupuan, Br. Timbul, Tegallalang Phone: +62 81339585666 www.ubudstables.com Sepeda Bali Green Adventure Cycling Jl. Nyuh Bojog, Ubud Phone: 0361 978631 www.sepedabali.com

EAST BALI SECTION

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office Search and Rescue Joglo Restaurant Jl.Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42181 www.joglocandidasa.com

118 751011

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com

Villarossa Candidasa Jl.Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42062 www.villarossa.org

Australia

241118

Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangase Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com

Villa Sasoon Jl. Puri Bagus Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41511 www.villasasoon.com

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com

Watergarden Hotel Restaurant & Spa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41540 www.watergardenhotel.com

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Puri Wirata Dive Resort and Spa Jl. Raya Bunutan, Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23523 www.puriwirata.com

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136

CONSULATES

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605

Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074 Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338 Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779 UbudLife 81

Mandala

LAST WORD

by Luciana Siguelboim

I’m eating a banana and dulce de leche pancake in Punta del Este, Uruguay. I got here today.

As I silently give thanks for this luxury I’m giving myself, I start thinking of all the people and beings who have made this act possible. In my mind I unravel the chain of involvement until it becomes an unmanageable web, and I am overcome by two sensations – 1. how magical this world is, in which we are all interdependently connected, and 2. how immensely complex is this social, economic, industrial system we have created and keep creating… It seems too difficult to modify the 3D spider web in which we live – and yet this web depends, sublimely and simply, on each action that each of us weaves into it. Spider webs are nature’s mandalas, and their nature, between the ethereal and the material, reminds us of our own.

Those who do not see the spider’s masterful marvel and, far from their nature, destroy it in a second so as to reclaim every last corner of their cubic house, days later find that the work has been identically reconstructed. The spider holds the plans in its DNA, and knits all over again without posing existential questions.

I don’t. I eat and think, first, about my grandfather; about these dollars he earns through his work, which he generously gives me so that I can indulge my ever-stirring senses.

I think about the manager who charged me for the pancake, about the waiter who brought it to me, about the supplier of the ingredients, about the workers at the supermarket, about the person who reaped the wheat long after having sowed it, about the company that makes the dulce de leche and its employees, about the poor cow and calves who suffered, imprisoned, mistreated and separated, so that I could satisfy my palate, about the country from which this banana must have come, about all the means of transport and drivers and contaminating fuel and 82 UbudLife

fuel-extracting-and-processing machines involved in this pancake that is already not sitting very well with me. I think about the ship that brought me here.

I think about a friend who no longer is such, with whom I enjoyed my first banana and dulce de leche pancakes.

Sometimes, as everyone does, I feel anguished when I think about what I interpret as the unbalance of the world. Suddenly, in this moment, I realize how wrong I’ve been. The world is always in perfect balance—it’s part of its nature, it is only man who disturbs it.

Those who look at the spider web and still see the old and uncared for, miss the marvel. In one fragment of the web is all the design. We are responsible for the whole world, and each being who inhabits it is totally responsible for us. Every new action is a new world.

Now I’m going to drink lots of water and not eat for several hours…Today, I start treating us well.

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