Ubud Life 27th Edition

UbudLife NO. 27 • JUNE - AUGUST 2016

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

GUS TEJA’S

MUSIC FROM THE SOUL

HOTDOG BALI BALINESE HAUTE CUISINE BALI ADVENTURE RAFTING THE SOEKARNO CENTER HOT STUFF

free

Ibu Rai, as she was well known to many travelers in the 60’s, was born 1925.

She sold food and her “Warung” became quite famous, even travel books recommended it as place to find safe and good quality food for foreigners. Her son, Dewa Gede, opened a restaurant in 1986 at family land and as a tribute to his mother courage and enterprise, called it Ibu Rai Restaurant. He carries on his mother’s. Our restaurant is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavors using the best and freshest ingredients. All are carefully presented and with friendly service. “Hope you enjoy our food with taste of Asian Spices”.

72 Monkey Forest Street Ubud Bali | +62 361 973472 restaurant@iburai.com | www.iburai.com

EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swasiastu

editor ubudlife-gsb team

Welcome to our new edition of Ubud Life. As usual we have this little magazine packed full with big stories which we hope you will enjoy.

creative graphic designer dedito ssn.

Recently I visited another island and after spending years living in beguiling Bali, I was struck by the differences. Sumba is refreshingly undeveloped and apart from one fancy hotel tucked away by the sea, the advancements of modernity are minimal. The air is so clean that you can smell its various fragrances. The island still beats with the pulse of tradition and while the tribal folk now wear tee shirts rather than hand loomed ikats, their lives have changed little.

How different it is from Bali, where we enjoy all the modern conveniences, cappuccinos and great cuisine in pleasing surroundings. A massage, a taxi, a pizza, a yoga class are all just a phone call away. Everything is available.

Yet while this is great, it is always worthwhile to head to another of Indonesia’s beautiful islands and explore pristine beaches and culture that still exist. Sometimes life is more than a cappuccino.

Getting out of our normal comfort zone can sometimes expand our consciousness even more than the latest yoga class, and bring a new appreciation for the things that we take for granted.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

THE EDITOR

Cover photo courtesy of Gus Teja Flute maestro Gus Teja fuses the rhythms of the flute, and other ethnic instruments, with modern influences to produce melodies from the heart.

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photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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HOTDOG BALI BALINESE HAUTE CUISINE

26

GUS TEJA’S MUSIC FROM THE SOUL

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THE SOEKARNO CENTER

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CASHEW OF KARANGASEM

ETHICAL ORGANIC FASHION

BALI ADVENTURE RAFTING

happenings around ubud So do try to make the effort and go. You will be so glad you did.

Bali Arts Festival 2016 Opening Hours: Mon–Sat, 10:00–22:00 Location: Denpasar Arts Centre (Taman Werdhi Budaya), Jl. Nusa Indah, Denpasar | T: 0361 227 176 www.baliartsfestival.com

Bali Arts Festival Down in the south in the capital, in Denpasar, the 38th BALI ARTS FESTIVAL is gearing up. From June 13th til July 9th audiences of both Balinese and foreign tourists will be dazzled with glorious displays of the best cultural performances that Bali has to offer. Villages are scoured, performances are gauged so that the very best artists on the island have the chance to display their skills.

All the famous dances, like the much loved Legong, Gambuh, Welcome dances, the warrior’s Baris dance and many lesser known, will all be performed beautifully on and around the open stages, auditoriums and outdoor pavilions of the Bali Arts Centre where most of the performances are held. Photographers love the chance to shoot so many beautifully presented performers at close range, and the processions impress everyone. IN addition to Balinese performances, will be performers from other provinces and overseas as well.

Denpasar can be a little difficult to navigate and savvy attendees park outside the centre and take a taxi or ojek (motorbike taxi) to solve parking problems.

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Ubud Jazz Festival August will see the streets of Ubud filled with jazz musicians as the fourth Ubud Village Jazz Festival comes to town. Held at ARMA this community based international festival will run on 12 and 13 August. Around 4,000 people are expected to attend this “cosy, intimate and empowering” event Book early for the early bird special price tickets. Just visit www. ubudvillagejazzfestival.com to get all the details.

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Ozone Theraphy at Taksu Taksu, that luxury spa hidden away in the jungle off Jl. Hanoman is now offering two cutting-edge Ozone treatments. Ozone therapy, which introduces extra oxygen in to the body by way of ozone has been utilized and heavily studied for more than a century.

Its effects are proven, and it can help to contain viruses, fungi, yeast and protozoa, as well as activate the immune system Taksu now has an Ozone Steam Sauna which operates as a usual steam sauna. Ozone is gently pumped into the sauna, which is then easily absorbed by the skin and lymphatic system as pores have been opened by the steam. It helps to induce invigorating oxygenation of all the tissues, organs and cells of the body. Blood flow is enhanced, white blood cells release disease fighting substances.

The ear therapy induces a deeply relaxed state as the ozone bubblies into the ear canals (especially good for respiratory problems) through a specially modified stethoscope.

Ozone Therapy can boost your immune system, and grants an immediately noticeable feeling of overall well - being. All you need to do is be there and relax while the ozone does its work.

30 minutes – Rp 350,000, 40 minutes – Rp 450,000, Package of 3 – Rp 1,250,000 plus tax and service.

Taksu Spa Open Daily 9am – 10pm | http://www.taksuspa.com, Jl. Goutama Selatan Ubud | T: 0361 971490 & 0361 972-639

Folk Another new restaurant on the block is located at the lower end of Jl Monkey Forest, at the Forest end. Food and Beverage is directed by Chef Duncan McCance of Ekstedt (Stockholm) who has cooked in some mighty fine spots like Orana (Adelaide), Burnt Ends (Singapore) and Copper Kitchen & Bar (Ubud).

Keeping it simple is the Folk way with food. Chef Duncan aims to blur the lines between breakfast, lunch and dinner to create an all-day culinary 14 UbudLife

pot pourri. The fresh produce is sourced locally from sustainable partners with select items made inhouse wherever possible and their on site fresh baked bread is to die for! Try their soft shell crab burger or the Ribeye with beetroot and horseradish cream with shoe string fries. Yum! Oh and being in Ubud, they have vegetarian options as well. Smoothies and great coffee from a blend developed by Tetap Happy Coffee Roasters are all good.

And PS! For the quality of their cuisine, their prices are very reasonable.

FOLK – Jl. Monkey Forest opposite to Three Monkeys.

For more info, please contact Adam Suriajaya at folkubud@ gmail.com Open everyday 7am - 6pm

So what is salt therapy good for? The antibacterial and anti inflammatory properties of the salt help to build the immune system, clear the skin, adjust sleep disorders, help with skin cancers, and a range of respiratory ailments, including colds, bronchitis, emphysema and asthma. Even the hair benefits! Anyone suffering from psoriasis or eczema can do a course of treatments and get their skin looking good again. Groups and meditation groups are also accommodated.

The Salt Room - Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud | T: 0361 9080810

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lungs where they act as a kind of broom to loosen toxins, mucus and other bad stuff that keep us from good health. Interestingly, while Himalayan salt is considered to be the most therapeutic of salts, it is not used in the actual machine, but rather therapeutic grade sea salt harvested in New Zealand.

The Salt Room New in Pengosekan is the Salt Room. This easy, yet effective therapy replicates the microclimate of a salt cave. Where temperature is set at between 20-24’C and humidity between 40-70% you sit in the room for around 40 minutes. Stay Awake if you can or you may fall instantly into a deep slumber, only to be awaked by bright lights signifying the end of the treatment. Settled comfortably into cushioned chairs with a snuggly fleecy blanket, time just dissolves. The micro particles of medicinal grade salt enter easily into the skins pores and down into the

OUTPOST

So what is salt therapy good for? The antibacterial and anti inflammatory properties of the salt help to build the immune system, clear the skin, adjust sleep disorders, help with skin cancers, and a range of respiratory ailments, including colds, bronchitis, emphysema and asthma. Even the hair benefits! Anyone suffering from psoriasis or eczema can do a course of treatments and get their skin looking good again. Groups and meditation groups are also accommodated.

The Salt Room Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud T: 0361 9080810

– Ubud’s newest co-working and office space opens its doors.

Located just outside Nyuh Kuning by the big bridge, Outpost offers plenty of bang for the buck. Not only do they have two internet providers to supply an uninterrupted stream of steady 20 mbps data flow, they offer plenty of other advantages as well.

Full time members can use the pool at the adjacent Bali Spirit Hotel, they can enjoy free neck and shoulder massage each Thursday, get great coffee supplied from a nearby coffee house, enjoy a number of exciting events hosted at the venue. Workers can choose from cool air con space or a fan cooled open air space above.

Several fabulous villas and hotels are within easy walking distance of the space, for those visitors who want to get into work.

Opening hours are Mon – Fri from 6am-12pm with host hours from 8am-6pm.

Sat & Sun Opening Hours are 8am-8pm with host hours from 8am-5pm on Saturday The Coworking space is available to members 24/7 | Address: Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning, Ubud, Bali T: 0361 9080584 | E: info@outpost-asia.com | www.outpost-asia.com 16 UbudLife

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HOTDOG BALI BALINESE HAUTE CUISINE by jean couteau • image windia

Eating involves not only the flavour of food, but also rituals and prohibitions.

Let's give a look at the eating habits of the Balinese.

F

irst, it should be noticed that, not unlike sex, eating is in Bali a "private" rather a "public" practice, at least in daily life. When eating, the Balinese closes himself/herself from the outside world to fully concentrate on the food. He/she goes to the kitchen to eat alone or, if the occasion is a collective, ritual feast, he/she stops all contacts with the people around to plunge in the lonely pleasure of ingestion. With the occasional exception of a "burp" or a "munch" noise, a sign of this pleasure, no voices are heard.

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CULTURAL CUISINE Eating is thus a “natural” function during which the Balinese --arguably one the most sociable people on earth, who talk and chatter all day long-- interrupt all communication with others. Very different indeed from us westerners for whom eating and drinking are often times the only moments of openness and dialogue shared with others. So, when you invite Balinese for dinner--and this applies to a lesser extent to most non - Westernized Indonesians-- don’t be surprised when they don’t show up for the invitation or, if they do, when they don’t utter a word and leave after half an hour. There are no ill intentions. “Eating out” with friends is simply not part of their tradition..

Eating together in Bali is usually related to a religious event, and is thus endowed with religious, rather than merely "social" signification. In the typical communal feast, the megibung , the guests sit in circles of eight people. A short one-foot table, the dulang, is placed before each group with a mound of rice surrounded by other food sorts. The sitting arrangement symbolizes the eight directions of the "rose of the winds" with their corresponding gods, while the mound of rice is a symbol of the cosmic mountain, Mahameru. The whole, known as the gibungan, can be seen as a representation of a cosmic Padma or Lotus representing both Oneness and Multiple Infinite. The food itself is endowed with religious symbolism, usually on the basis of its texture and color.

For example the specific mix of blood and vegetables which makes up lawar may classify it on the side of Brahma, the creator and lord of fire, if the result is red (lawar barak ), and on the side of Wisnu, if the mix is green (lawar ijo ).

Even the types of meat are classified, and prepared, in accordance with Godly rather than human needs. Some animals have a

particular significance. The three cosmic “qualities” or guna of Balinese religion: satwa or principle of “order and purity”, rajah, the principle of “activity and disorder” and tamah, the principle of “blindness and dissolution”, correspond respectively to ducks, chickens and dogs. Each of these animals play an important role in rituals, dependent on the way they are prepared as ritual food. The reddish belang bungkem dog, for example, is offered as a sacrificial meat to the demonic forces during the resi gana exorcism ceremony. The duck is used as pengelem offering to the sea or lakes cooked ala betutu . As for the for the rooster it is everywhere, and one cannot claim to know Bali before one has seen a mangku priest ripping a rooster’s throat with his teeth as part of an offering to the demons.

The ritualized preparation and devouring of food, is thus devised as a way to put Man --the microcosm-- in harmony with the larger Macrocosm.

The etiquette of megibung is no less complex than its religious meaning. Each guest is assigned a place corresponding to his/her status and function. The nobility and brahmanas in particular, sit on the "high ground" of a verandah. Males are also separated from females. Nowadays though, the etiquette is becoming more lax and increasingly reflects the new respect shown towards wealth and education. The Tuan Dokter, the rich merchant and the visiting "tourist" are invariably assigned a place of privilege next to the traditional elite. As explained earlier, eating proper is a "private" moment and, even in a feast, it is usually dispatched in a matter of minutes, on a small sign from the host. The "social talk", if any, normally precedes the meal. The service is done by a parent or servant, who should seat cross-legged on the ground while performing his/her function.

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By looking at the amount of food served, and in particular, at the amount of sate or meat, a guest can judge the importance of the event and the status of the host or the group. If the ceremony is a private one, such as a cremation, the host will usually go to great lengths to put on a “big show” in front of his fellow villagers, lest the latter retaliate - by not showing up when their help is required.

Worse, if the event is a cremation ceremony, they may topple the tower, complete with the decaying corpse, while carrying it to the cemetery to be burned.

At the end of the feast, there is always a lot of sate and rice left over. Some guests may bring it home to feed their dogs or pigs, or even for their own consumption. Caste and prestige are always taken into account, though. It would be not only improper, but also impure, for a brahmana or a satria to consume a sudra ‘s left-over. Anyone may bring their own sate home.

Concerning food itself, the Balinese have made an art out of necessity. Probably spurred in the past by seasonal famines, they have created gourmet dishes out of ingredients which would appear disgusting and unthinkable to most westerners- such insects as crickets, flying ants, cicadas, tree worms, dragonflies, locusts, grasshoppers. Other favorites include monitor lizards, porcupines, rats and bats. Each had, and sometimes still has, a preparation specifically adapted to it. The white tree-worm, for example, a big wriggling insect 7 cm long, should be put to rest inside a coconut before being passed to the frying pan. It then comes out as crunchy and tasty as a nut. Many of these gourmet delicacies are not only popular because of good taste but also for their medicinal qualities. Grilled lizard is thus supposed to 20 UbudLife

be effective for the healing of rash and for children’s cramps. Asthmatics sometimes go for a diet of dog meat. As for rats they are said to be the best cure for chronic boils.

Bali is fast changing, though, and food habits are no exception. What the Balinese are now eating is very different from what they ate twenty years ago. Rice is now eaten husked and white, and without the mix of sweet potatoes so common in the past.

The fancy reptiles and insects have almost disappeared from the diet. At the same time, "new" types of food products have appeared, in particular those using wheat-flour byproducts.

The cuisine itself is unrecognizable. If you eat in a Kuta or Ubud restaurant, the chances are, no matter what Balinese names are written on your menu, that the cuisine itself is Javanese, Chinese or "European". The ubiquitous noddles, of Chinese origin, was almost nonexistent twenty years ago. Most of the new food is sold by non-Balinese, as well. The pushcarts of the food peddlers have become a regular feature of Balinese villages.

The owners are usually out-islanders who have married local girls. Almost all these peddlers--there are thousands of them-- are of Javanese and Madurese origins.

Last but not least, at the other end of the market, there are now the fast food outlets, Mac Donalds and Kentucky Fried Chicken.

Junk food in the West has become the haute cuisine of the Indonesian nouveau riche. As for my own tastes, I won't visit any of them before they have a wormburger or a real Balinese Hotdog on their menu.

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WORLD MUSIC

GUS TEJA’S

MUSIC FROM THE SOUL

by rachel love • images courtesy of gus teja

If you’re on holiday in Bali and want to purchase something to remind you of the beauty, serenity, nature and gentleness of the island, you should buy some of the haunting flute music of Gus Teja. This is the ethnic music that you will hear being played in nearly every restaurant and spa in Ubud; if you really stop to listen to it you will find that this is music that talks to your mind, body and spirit, and goes straight to your soul. Listen to each textured melody again when you get home and the sounds will bring you right back to this enchanted isle, allowing your mind to escape for a little while from modern day responsibility and endless multi-tasking.

M

usic sends a vibration around the planet; it is an essential part of every culture and it doesn’t stand still. Even old ritual ensembles in Bali are played differently now than in the past, and due to the island’s creative energy, new concepts emerge all the time, augmented with yet more new ideas.

To the Western ear, traditional Balinese music is complex because in a gamelan there is more than one melody going on. It depends on where you are standing as to which one you hear; in fact, you can walk around the orchestra and hear different music. Gus Teja, a ‘suling’ or ‘seruling’ (flute) maestro from the small village of Junjungan near Ubud, addresses this by blending the rhythms and qualities of ethnic musical instruments such as slonding, tingklik, drums and flute with an enriching fusion of modern influences and contemporary instruments including the guitar and the bass guitar. The result is an enchanting symphony featuring flutes from all around the world, including the Native American flute, shakuhachi, pan flute, bansuri, hulusi, quena, ocarina, whistle, and of course the Balinese bamboo flute, which is essentially used in gamelan ensembles.

Although the Balinese suling is similar to forms of Javanese suling, the way in which

it is played sets it apart. This is because the performers have to perfect the technique of circular breathing in order to create a seamless continuance of tone, as well as producing a sense of constancy, which persists even at moments of dramatic climax by the percussive gamelan instruments. On appearances, Balinese music uses two scales, Pelog and Slendro, but within those basic structures are many sub-scales and modes.

Most gamelan are best suited to only a few of the many possible modes. Balinese flutes, on the other hand, can play all of the modes well. Indeed, this durable, portable, beautiful instrument has a magical ethereal quality.

“Music is universal,” says Gus Teja, “therefore through music let’s bring peace and love to the world.” He claims, “The flute is an instrument with a melodious voice that represents the voice of peace.” This musical genius feels free every time he plays the flute, and his music becomes a form of personal meditation to express his devotion to God. He explains that the music he composes and creates, “Not only represents an expression of my feelings from the deepest part of my heart, but also reflects peace, serenity, and a strong bond of brotherhood regardless of cultural background or different race.”

Gus Teja began playing the flute while attending elementary school, yet he also spent a lot of time during this period practicing the gamelan. As the years progressed, his interest in the sounds, tones and subtleties of wind instruments increased. This sparked a compulsion to learn everything there was to know about wind instruments from around the world. He studied Balinese and contemporary music at Institute Seni Indonesia Denpasar, which led him to compose music, teach the flute, and perform traditional Balinese music as well as contemporary music all over Bali.

He continues to perform at numerous music festivals, including the World Music Festival in Penang, Malaysia. Gus Teja challenges himself by creating new instruments to accompany his passion for flutes. Ranging from whittled wood instruments to an assorted selection of fully-fledged bamboo flutes, he has created and tuned the ‘tingklik baro’ – a Balinese bamboo instrument, as well as the ‘slokro’ and the ‘slonding chromatic’ – a Balinese metal instrument.

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In 2009, at the age of 27, after many years of patience and practice, Gus formed the Gus Teja World Music ensemble to produce music inspired by his native island of Bali. The band plays with the traditional instruments of Gus’ own creation accompanied by contemporary instruments such as acoustic and bass guitars, combined with wind instruments from various parts of the world. So far, Gus Teja World Music has released three albums, the uplifting ‘Rhythm of Paradise’ in 2009, the modern meets traditional ‘Flutes for Love’ in 2011, which became the best selling album in Bali, and the upbeat ‘Ulah Egar’ in 2015.

Gus Teja’s melodies from the heart are highly recommended if you want to take a breath of fresh air from the frenzied pace of everyday life. His inspiring music will take you back to a time and place where things were simpler, and the gentle harmonies will wrap around you, drawing you towards the path least travelled. Close your eyes. Open your ears. Just listen…

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FRESH! SPA AD

FASHION

Ethical Organic Fashion by stephanie m • image couertesy of we’are

Being the hotbed of creativity that it is, Ubud is home to many fashion designers creating everything from casual yoga wear to upmarket lifestyle apparel. And while some stick to the conventional practices of sourcing materials and producing goods outside the country, others are taking a more sustainable approach, using local natural materials and artisan craftsmen to produce pieces that are so much more than just your run-of-the-mill garments.

La Bohème

Established in 2011, La Bohème has always been about creating elegant resort wear pieces that are in tune with nature and very much a product of the island they come from. Although the team here knew that it would be cheaper to use fabrics and dyes from farther flung locales like India or China, they made the decision from very early on to produce everything by hand right here in Bali in a way that respects and protects the culture and environment.

Every item in their boutique shop, from the light and breezy kaftans to the gorgeous scarves and sarongs, and unique home décor pieces are hand woven by Balinese craftspeople using natural fibres and traditional weaving methods to produce exquisite cottons, silks and linens. In addition, the enticing array of colours that you see on the racks is the result of natural dyes made with indigenous materials like mango leaves and indigo.

Using natural dyes was a conscious decision by the owners to minimize damage to the local environment, and although process of creating the dyes and dying the fabrics is quite complicated and time consuming, the organic process results in intriguing earth tones that are

impossible to reproduce chemically. In addition, the fact that they can only produce a limited number of pieces with each batch of dye means that each garment is truly unique.

Over the past five years that they have been operating out of their chic boutique on Jalan Goutama, La Bohème has developed a loyal following of European, Australian and Asian clients who love the classical designs that are inspired by organic forms, and the fact that the pieces are gentle on the skin and produced in a way that respects local traditions and is easy on the earth.

Jl. Goutama No. 5, Ubud www.labohemebali.com

Bambooku

Bambooku translates to ‘my bamboo’, and the name was chosen with the idea of self-empowerment in mind, particularly when it comes to making choices about the products we buy and how they affect the environment. Everything you find in the Bambooku shops is made from bamboo, which owner Georges Beurnier believes is one of nature’s most sustainable resources, and much easier on the environment to produce than cotton or other synthetic fabrics.

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What many people don’t know is that bamboo is actually a grass, and the fastest growing grass in the world at that. Bamboo can be ready to harvest in just two or three years, as opposed to the eight to ten years it takes to grow trees for rayon. In addition, bamboo does not need pesticides, herbicides or fertilizers to grow and can thrive on just natural rainfall alone. This is in stark contrast to cotton, which needs about 15,000 to 20,000 litres of water to produce just one kilo of cotton.

Georges and the Bambooku team take their organic bamboo and put it through a five-step process where it is steamed, crushed, strained and spun into fibres that can be woven into fabric. They then take this fabric to their factories to make eco-friendly linens, bath towels and clothing. The results are incredibly soft yet durable products that are naturally hypoallergenic, antibacterial and antifungal, and quick to absorb water and dry quickly.

Bambooku also produces a line of products called Takesumi Power that make use of activated bamboo charcoal (takesumi), which has the ability to absorb odours, detoxify the body, filter air and water, and reduce electromagnetic waves in the environment. The products include soaps and shampoos, organic vinegar, jewellery, and activated charcoal ‘shields’ in bamboo boxes.

Jl. Hanoman No. 32, Ubud www.bambooku.com

WE ,AR

WE’AR began producing eco-friendly organic yoga wear in a small family-run manufacturing house in Ubud, and they have since expanded to small home workshops and factories around the island, as well as boutiques in Ubud, Seminyak and New Zealand. Their philosophy has always been to create products that use natural organic fibres whenever possible, and are produced ethically under fair conditions.

The people behind WE’AR strongly believe that conscious consumerism is so much more than just a movement, and that it should simply be a way of life for us all. They believe that everything we do affects the planet as a whole, hence their desire to create a holistic business that empowers the people who create their products, reduces 38 UbudLife

the impact on the environment, and raises awareness about ecofriendly fashion and fair trade policies.

WE’AR works closely with local communities of artisans to find new and innovative ways to assist in the development of the craftspeople and reduce their carbon footprint in the region. For example, one of their main textile suppliers developed a green mill and won the Indonesian bid with Lenzig, a fibre manufacturer, to produce high quality eco-textiles.

This allows WE’AR to source their materials here in Indonesia and support local manufacturing.

The WE’AR collection includes a vast array of yoga gear for men and women including tanks, shorts, leggings and yoga mats, as well as off-the-mat urban gear like dresses, belts, blazers and jackets. Each item is designed with fashion and function in mind, so the pieces are made with soft, comfortable, and highly breathable materials, unique prints and a mix of neutral and bold colours.

Jl. Hanoman No. 41, Ubud www.we-ar.it

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words and image ayu sekar

This gorgeous little boy masquerading as a monkey is taking part in a Ngerebeg Ceremony to neutralise bad energy, a little like a human Ogoh ogoh. The ceremony takes place in several districts of Bali, notably Tegallalang, near Ubud.

SMALL & BEAUTIFUL

cute places to eat in ubud by simon • image courtesy of the restaurans

H

iding away in Ubud are several lowkey restaurants, relaxed places that have worked their way into the hearts of those who frequent them. Some are so popular that patrons find themselves returning day after day.

Warung Sopa This cosy little eatery is a great place to get a vegetarian meal with real Balinese/Indonesian flavours. Their popular nasi campur comes with a host of ingredients that can include crispy tofu, banana flower curry, steamed fern shoots in dressing,in cabbage rolls, Balinese coconut curry with tofu, curried bitter gourd, falafel balls and coconut choko. The two sambals (one Balinese chopped and one blended) are full of flavor. Of course this low key easy going place has plenty of other things to try as well! Best of all, it is affordable.

Warung Sopa - Jl. Sugriwa No. 29-35 (next to Hanoman), Ubud, Balli | T: 0851-0076-5897 Open 8AM–10PM

Sopa Garden Sitting in a spacious garden, this relaxing place is fine to while away a few pleasant hours. Good for quiet chats and easy to eat vegetarian food, it is the kind of place that soothes the senses. Some of their favourites are Japanese inspired battered vegetables and the zucchini is particularly good.

Or you can just go for a coffee and enjoy the space.

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UBUD EATING Sopa Garden also has shops, and health centres as well as an organic market every Wednesday. It is really a complex of good things.

Sopa Garden - Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud, Bali T: 0851-0080-1340 | Open: 8AM – 10PM

Warung Alami - Jl. Penestanan Kelod, Ubud, Bali | T: (0361) 081 2391 3754, or 085 8574 31875 Open: 10AM–11PM

Warung Biah Biah Hidden in busy Jl. Goutama, Biah Biah is one of Ubud’s very popular Indonesian Restaurants. Slip in during the day and you will find a seat but in the evening you may need to wait, or at least squeeze in and share a table with some friendly other patrons. Look out for popular Indonesian favourites like the Soto Ayam (subtley spiced chicken soup) and Nasi Campur, and don’t forget to try the Balinese favourite green rice flour pancakes filled with palm sugar syrup and coconut/which are just too good to miss. You can work on your health with glasses of freshly made Indoesian jamu (herbal tonics) too.

Because of their popularity, a second Biah Biah+ has opened in Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud and PS. the wifi is fast too!

Warung Biah Biah - Jl. Goutama No.13, Ubud, Bali T: (0361) 978249 or Biah Biah+ | Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud, Bali | T: (0361) 976466 Open: 10AM –11PM

Warung Alami

Warung Citta Ovest This cute little warung on Jl. Dewi Sita, serves Italian. Spaghettis, pastas and pizzas all come forth from the teeny cooking space with great results. With just a few tables and a little balcony overlooking the street it is a great place to people watch while enjoying your pasta.

This sweet little warung in Jl. Penestanan Kelod, close to the bigger Alchemy is a kind of Japanese country style deli. They serve Japanese country style cooking using locally grown, organic produce. Try their home made Gyoza, or fried pork with cabbage and miso, or their delicious Chicken teriyaki. Each day they change their menu so there is always something new to look forward to.

Prices are really reasonable with a small beer and pizza for just 50,000 during the daily happy hour.

That is definitely a bargain. Being Italian , they also serve wine and they also do takeaways. For a cute and cheap and cheerful meal, you just cant beat it.

Or order a bento box which they will deliver to your villa or hotel, for just 50,000!

Warung Citta Ovest - Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud, Bali | T: (0361) 971352 UbudLife 43

HOT STUFF by ibu kat • images ayu sekar

I

f you’ve tucked into a traditional Balinese meal, you’ll be familiar with the searing heat of chilli. Most dishes are cooked without it, but it’s always served on the side as a sambal (relish) for those who like it hot.

In common with many other ingredients in Balinese cuisine, the chilli was introduced by foreigners. Soy beans, bean sprouts and noodles arrived with Chinese traders. Squash, corn and avocadoes were brought by European explorers from the New World. So was chilli. Before the sixteenth century Balinese food may have been spiced by the long black pepper that is still often used here, but once the chilli made its appearance it was enthusiastically adopted into the local cuisine and throughout the archipelago.

Five hundred years ago spices were rare and valuable, some worth their weight in gold. Europeans developed a taste for them after encountering spices in the Middle East during the Crusades; only the wealthy could afford them. Initially spices arrived in Europe through Venice, brought there by intrepid Indian, Ethiopian and Arab traders. In the sixteenth century Portuguese, Dutch and English traders made the long and perilous journey to what is now Indonesia for cloves, nutmeg, pepper and cinnamon.

Christopher Columbus decided he could reach the fabled Spice Island more quickly by sailing west and reached the Caribbean islands in 1492. He loaded his ships with what he thought was valuable pepper but was, by happy accident, chilli.

Until then chilli was only known in Mexico, Central and South America. The dissemination of the chilli pepper around the world was amazingly fast. Within

HOT STUFF

HEALTH

by ibu kat • image ayu sekar

I

f you’ve tucked into a traditional Balinese meal, you’ll be familiar with the searing heat of chilli. Most dishes are cooked without it, but it’s always served on the side as a sambal (relish) for those who like it hot.

become an integral part of the cuisines of regions as distant as Korea, Thailand, India, West Africa, Italy, Central Asia and, of course, Indonesia. Think of Indian, Thai and Balinese food without the signature zing of chilli. Unthinkable.

In common with many other ingredients in Balinese cuisine, the chilli was introduced by foreigners. Soy beans, bean sprouts and noodles arrived with Chinese traders. Squash, corn and avocadoes were brought by European explorers from the New World. So was chilli. Before the sixteenth century Balinese food may have been spiced by the long black pepper that is still often used here, but once the chilli made its appearance it was enthusiastically adopted into the local cuisine and throughout the archipelago.

Chilli is a fairly tolerant plant.

With enough sunshine, it grows easily from seed in a variety of climates and soils and is self pollinating. Cultures around the world adopted it because it was cheap and easy to grow, but it must have been a giant step to move from a bland diet to a spicy one. Capsaicin, the compound that provides the chillies’ punch does not have any scientifically measurable addictive qualities. Yet the taste for heat became almost universal.

Five hundred years ago spices were rare and valuable, some worth their weight in gold. Europeans developed a taste for them after encountering spices in the Middle East during the Crusades; only the wealthy could afford them. Initially spices arrived in Europe through Venice, brought there by intrepid Indian, Ethiopian and Arab traders. In the sixteenth century Portuguese, Dutch and English traders made the long and perilous journey to what is now Indonesia for cloves, nutmeg, pepper and cinnamon.

Christopher Columbus decided he could reach the fabled Spice Island more quickly by sailing west and reached the Caribbean islands in 1492. He loaded his ships with what he thought was valuable pepper but was, by happy accident, chilli.

Until then chilli was only known in Mexico, Central and South America. The dissemination of the chilli pepper around the world was amazingly fast.

Within 50 years of its arrival in Europe it had become

Chillies have been around for a very long time. They have been grown in Mexico for over 6,000 years ago and archaeological evidence show that humans were eating them for over 3,000 years before that. The Aztecs invented the alchemic mixture of chilli and chocolate. There are thousands of types and new ones are being discovered all the time.

About 12% of chilli is comprised of capsaicin, the compound that makes it taste hot and which contains most of the medicinal properties. It’s used as a local pain reliever for arthritis, shingles, toothache and surgery scars; Ointments and lotions with capsaicin are also used as an external remedy UbudLife 45

for nerve pain and itching. Older Balinese people swear by it in cold weather, to keep the wind out.

days, so Bali’s classic sambals (and other dishes) may soon disappear from the table.

Chillies are good for you. A single pod contains a full day’s supply of beta-carotene and nearly twice the recommended daily allowance for Vitamin C. Chilli peppers have high levels of vitamins and minerals. One hundred gm provides 240% of the daily recommended dose of vitamin C, 39% of vitamin B-6 (Pyridoxine), 32% of vitamin A, 13% of iron, 14% of copper, and 7% of potassium. Bali’s traditional sambals almost always include chillies, garlic, shallots, tomato (another New World import) and sometimes root ginger and turmeric. An estimated 300 varieties of sambal from the length of Indonesia showcase the ingredients common in each area. They may be raw and ground with a mortar and pestle. If terasi (fermented shrimp paste) is used it’s usually roasted first to balance the flavour. Sambals may also contain lime juice, salt, candlenuts, galangal, basil, vinegar, palm sugar, tamarind, grated coconut, salted fish or oil. There’s even one containing fermented durian. Although there are plenty of bottled sambals on the supermarket shelves these days, freshly made is always best. It should have plenty of texture. In terms of spiciness, sambal can range from mild to incendiary.

The hotness of chilli is measured in ‘Scoville heat units’ (SHU). On the Scoville scale, a sweet bell pepper scores 0, a jalapeño pepper around 2,5004,000 units, a Mexican habañeros may have 100,000 to 350,000 units and the Naga Viper up to a life-threatening 1,300,000. Just kidding; no lives have been lost from eating chilli.

Old Balinese farmers reminisce about the everyday meal of their youth – a banana leaf heaped with fragrant heritage rice, a side of sambal and some greens from the fields. Sometimes it might include a hard-boiled egg. During ceremonies, a few slivers of meat. It was a healthy, fresh, tasty, filling diet and all the ingredients were home-grown.

Every Balinese woman has her own recipe and makes sambal every day. It always includes garlic, shallots, chilli, salt and red palm sugar and possibly tomatoes, candlenut and/or terasi sautéed in fresh coconut oil. Sometimes she chops in the unopened flower of pink torch ginger (bongkot). Sometimes it’s cooked, sometimes not. Tragically, fewer and fewer young women are interested in cooking these 46 UbudLife

If you happen to nibble a chilli that sets your mouth afire and makes tears run down your cheeks, you’ve clearly exceeded your personal SHU level. Don’t panic.

When your mouth burns from eating chillies try breathing through your nose, not your mouth, which tends to irritate the hot spots. Also try eating common table salt, milk, yoghurt, cucumber, mint leaves, ice-cream, chocolate, sugar, or starchy foods like bread. Drinking water will just intensify the burning effect.

So enjoy your exploration of Bali’s delicious cuisine and be sure to try that sambal. Those searing chillies will do you good.

EXPLORE UBUD 3 Welcome to the third edition of 90-pages, pocket size Free Guidebook is sown and circulated June 2016 and published quarterly

by Gemini Studio Bali Design Communication

For further information and advertising booking please contact: Email: sales@geministudio-bali.com • Mobile: 087 86228 3535

by ayu sekar • image down to earth

H

idden away in Jl. Gautama Selatan, just off Jl. Hanoman, Paradiso is a gem of a place.

Adjacent to the Down To Earth complex, the cinema shows some of the best movies in town.

This airconditioned little cinema which can easily hold 250, has huge comfy sofas where you can slouch comfortably while watching a great movie. And where else can you order from a menu while watching a movie. It is all very exotic.

The varied selection includes plenty of silver screen classics – Casablanca was shown recently – a movie that, even though it is more than 50 years old, continues to rate in the top ten romantic movies of all time. New classics, some Hollywood greats are showing and right now, a spate of Harry Potter movies, It is best to check the program as there is always something enticing to see. What you won’t see is a Hollywood blockbuster and what you may see is Travellers and Magicians – a delightful parable set in Bhutan.

In addition to great movies they also hold music events and ecstatic dance nights, all in the cool comfy atmosphere of the big cinema space. Private events can also be hosted there.

There are also plenty of events for children.

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Food is organic and vegan, and includes organic popcorn sprinkled with Himalayan salt and sweet potato wedges. The raw food menu ordered from Down to Earth next door, will see such treats as nut burgers and avocado soup, are amongst the great desserts. Juices, coconuts, coffees and raw desserts keep the dedicated health nuts happy. Chocolate slices and blueberry pie, Tofu lemon Cheesecake or Raw chocolate molten lava cake are just some of the specialties.

The brainchild of Liat Solomon, Macrobiotic chef, and ex ballet dancer, Paradiso is part of Liat’s vision to add another layer of culture to Ubud’s crowded scene. With her feet grounded in the arts, she has created this venue where there are no limits to what can be shown or performed here. Sometimes there will be a festival of French movies, or perhaps Russian.

Dance performances are also on the cards. This cross cultural centre has the only grand piano in Ubud.

Upcoming events include the new Paradiso Choir which will be coming into play soon. In the meantime, lots of practice is going on to perfect the performance. And in September, there will be the 2nd Vegan Festival. Like the food menu itself, Paradiso is very organic.

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The Soekarno Center by richard horstman • images ayu sekar, putu santosa

national unity, democracy and social justice.

E

xiled on the remote Ende Island in Flores between 1934-1938 because his political activities were seen as a threat to the Dutch East Indies Government, Kusno Sosrodiharjo Soekarno, an inspired nationalist spent four years meditating on his vision for an independent nation.

While under house arrest with his family Soekarno wrote the Pancasila, what was to become the philosophical foundation for the state of Indonesia. Derived from two old Javanese words – meaning five principles, it comprises of five values held to be inseparable and interrelated, the belief in one supreme God, humanitarian ideals,

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The son of an aristocratic Javanese schoolteacher and his high caste Balinese wife Soekarno was born in Blitar, East Java, in 1901.

A dynamic and intelligent child, his knowledge of Dutch made it possible for him to enter a European elementary school, and in 1916 Soekarno began high school. During this period he lived with a prominent Islamic leader and the next 5 years were most important in Sukarno’s future intellectual and political development. From1921-26 he studied at the Institute of Technology in Bandung, graduating as an engineer, focussing on architecture.

Sukarno then embarked on a political career, publishing

a series of articles in which he endeavoured to show that Islam and socialism were not incompatible.

Soekarno was moved from Ende to Sumatra by the Dutch in 1938 and was released when the Japanese occupied Nusantara (the local name of the archipelago prior to the formation Indonesia) in March 1942. Familiar with Soekarno's strong anti colonialist views the Japanese made him a leader in their various organizations, and in June 1945 he headed the most influential independence organization. Here he set forth in eloquent terms the Pancasila. On August 17, 1945, Sukarno, at the urging of youth groups and colleagues, proclaimed his

STATESMAN country’s independence after Japan’s surrender. He then became the first president of the new Republic of Indonesia, a position retained for almost 21 years.

Travel east from Ubud to Pejeng and then north upon the road to Tampaksiring (site of the ancient Gunung Kawi temple and Tirta Empul water temple), and about five kilometres south of the township center you will discover on your left an imposing six meter high statue towering over the road. This marks the entrance to the Sukarno Center - a museum that honours the famous leader.

Prior to entering the twostorey building you will see two wooden carriages from yesteryear. You may wonder what relevance are these, they are, however intriguing relics of Javanese mysticism.

Tradition reveals that the Sultans of Central Java after their marriage ceremonies travelled with their brides in one carriage, while the other empty carriage followed behind. Although the past Sultans according to custom had numerous wives, they had only one queen, Kanjeng Ibu Ratu Kidul, the beautiful, mythical queen of the southern seas, whose spirit is said to ride inside this second vehicle.

Step inside the museum and enter the heady world of power and grandeur.

An enormous bronze emblem of the state of Indonesia - the state of Indonesia - the Garuda Pancasila - depicting the mythical bird Garuda and the coats of arms greets you. Surrounded by an altar and ritual offerings this signifies the ancient spiritual narratives and forces that form the ideology of the nation sanctify Indonesia’s stately powers.

The interior is adorned with beautiful relics, photographs and pictures, chandeliers, ornate cabinets and furniture, while the floor is adorned with Persian carpets. What began in 1998 as an art gallery for the collection owned by Sukarno’s daughter Fatmawati has been transformed into a wonderful shrine to commemorate her charismatic father. You cant help being swept up by the awe of Sukarno – a

character of humble begins yet with a mighty vision, and the brilliance to unite many parties under the same cause – freedom from their colonial oppressors and the birth of their nation.

From speakers you can hear public addresses by the man who’s spellbinding oratory and ability to phrase his political goals in a language the masses could understand made him a national hero, adding a powerful unseen element to your experience.

Renowned as a gentleman and an international statesman, photographs of Sukarno with world figures such as American president JFK, Chinese leader Mao Zedong and the Indian Prime Minister Nehru line the walls. Other images show Sukarno giving his legendary speeches and meeting numerous dignitaries. Many of the UbudLife 55

his inspiring Pancasila speech to fellow nationalist and contains the original furniture.

photos on display are from his family’s private collection and never before been published. Arguably the most iconic image is Sukarno with Marilyn Monroe during his 1959 visit to the United States. Rumoured to have an irresistible charm with the ladies, Sukarno was a renowned womanizer, and of special interest is a photograph depicting Sukarno’s family tree. This reveals his connections to nine different women, six whom he married, another three “acquaintances”, while he fathered children to four separate women.

Cabinets contain fascinating relics, a collection of samurai swords formerly owned by the Emperor of Japan, currency from 1945-67 with images of Soekarno printed on them and incredible items of inheritance from the East Javanese Majapahit Empire (13th – 16th Cabinets

century). One small room is dedicated to the library of Sukarno with his collection of books, desk, and other memorabilia. A recorded mantra echoes through the room almost conjuring up his presence, and creating an eerie ambience. Another room recreates the meeting room where he delivered

As an architect Soekarno was responsible for transforming the physical landscape of the capital city of his nation, Jakarta with public art. Soekarno too was an art lover and a great supporter of Indonesian modern art and Balinese traditional art, amassing huge collections. There are photos of him standing in front of some of his collection, while paintings and a shrine in one corner upstairs honour the Goddess of the southern seas.

For those wishing to discover more about the founding father of the nation, the Soekarno Center is a recommended destination to learn about “Bung Karno” as he was known - the man who brought independence to the nation, instilled selfconfidence and a national identity in the people and garnered international recognition for Indonesia.

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UbudLife 57

UBUD’S JAPANESE FOOD JOINTS by stphanie m • images ayu sekar

U

bud has always been a popular destination for Japanese travellers, and over the years many have settled here creating a lively Japanese expat community. Just one of the many benefits that this brings to the area is the number of excellent Japanese restaurants offering everything from sushi and sashimi to sukiyaki and sake. If you’re craving great Japanese cuisine, here are some of Ubud’s best spots:

Ryoshi Since first setting up shop in Seminyak in 1993, Ryoshi has gone on to become the king of Japanese restaurants in Bali with locations in Ubud, Kuta, Seminyak and Sanur, as well as branches in Lombok and Surabaya. Their success is mostly due to their consistently good food made fresh to order with high quality ingredients, and their laid-back locales.

Ryoshi’s spacious Ubud branch can be found at the bottom of Hanoman Street just before 58 UbudLife

EATING JAPANESE Coco Supermarket, and it features a mix of low wooden tables with cushions on tatami mats, communal dining tables and wooden bales over tranquil ponds. There is also a cool air-conditioned, non-smoking space available.

The comprehensive menu here includes all the traditional Japanese dishes you know and love like edamame, tempura and gyoza; sushi and sashimi made from ridiculously fresh fish; and heartier dishes like Udon noodles, sukiyaki hotpots, and rice bowls piled high with grilled meats and fish. Their bento boxes and sushi and sashimi sets are particularly good value.

Relatively new to Ryoshi Ubud is their special teppanyaki counter where you can watch the chefs grill up delectable feasts right in front of you. The teppanyaki sets include your choice of seafood like king prawns or squid, or Australian or Wagyu beef, and they include miso soup, sashimi, grilled vegetables, garlic rice and kinako ice cream. Definitely a good bet if you’re dining with a group.

Jl. Hanoman No. 68, Ubud www.ryoshibali.com

Cafe Bintang Not to be confused with Warung Bintang on Jalan Tirta Tawar (which offers mainly Indonesian fare), Cafe Bintang is a hidden Japanese gem tucked away on a side road off Jalan Suweta in the village of Bentuyung. The vibe here is unpretentious and laid-back, and the second floor dining room looks out over padi fields and coconut trees. If you’re looking to escape the crowds in Ubud and enjoy inexpensive Japanese cuisine amid gentle breezes, this is your ideal spot.

The interiors here are open and airy with homey touches like bookshelves filled with Japanese titles and cozy platforms with low

cushion seating. The staff members are also friendly and sweet, which adds to the overall ambiance. In fact, you will often find the manager chatting amiably at the tables with the customers, many of whom are devoted regulars.

You won’t find handrolls or hamachi nigiri at Cafe Bintang, but rather a simple menu of Japanese soups, salads, curries and noodle dishes. Start with a chilled Bintang, iced green tea or one of their famed Bali Sunset cocktails, and then whet your appetite with an array of appetisers like silky miso soup, fresh salads, or the best chicken or pork gyoza this side of Kyoto.

Main courses consist of rice and noodle dishes like the excellent pork tonkatsu curry (deep fried pork cutlet) in a rich curry sauce with a side of shredded cabbage and rice, or the light and crispy tempura with a side of healthy soba noodles in broth. There are also a few Indonesian dishes on offer for die-hard nasi goreng fans.

Jl. Suweta, Bentuyung, Ubud

Toro Sushi Sleek and modern, yet still warm and welcoming, Toro Sushi is located on lively Jalan Goutama in the old Bar Luna space. Step inside and the smiling staff will direct you to one of the wooden tables in the softly lit dining room either next to the open-sided front for some people watching, or deeper back for intimate conversations amid striking paintings of seaside scenes and framed Japanese calligraphy prints.

You can stick to the tried and true classics here like agedashi tofu, edamame, and tempura sets as apps, and spicy maki tuna rolls, don buri rice bowls and butterfish nigiri or sashimi for mains. However we highly UbudLife 59

recommend going for the more imaginative signature fusion rolls, of which there are plenty to choose from.

Some of our favourites include the Toro Special with cream cheese, tuna, crab and cucumber, wrapped in rice and nori, panko fried and finished with eel sauce and spicy mayo. The Caliente Roll is a fiery creation made with jalepeno and marinated spicy crab, topped with red snapper, spicy mayo and Japanese chili pepper. Each roll is plated like a work of art, and they taste just as good as they look.

Be sure to check out Toro’s specials board, as they usually have an enticing mix of dishes you won’t usually find on the menu like the Lobster Roll with tempura lobster, asparagus, crab, spicy mayo and eel sauce, or the tuna carpaccio. They also have a great selection of sake, saketinis, and signature cocktails like refreshing watermelon mojitos that pack a punch.

Jl. Goutama No. 3, Ubud

Kagemusha One of the best indicators of whether a Japanese restaurant in Bali is truly authentic is the number of Japanese people you see dining there on a regular basis. In this regard Kagemusha comes up spades. Step into their tranquil garden space on any given day or night, and chances are you’ll see a good number of tables filled with Japanese patrons digging into homestyle Japanese dishes.

Not long ago Kagemusha moved to their current location on the Jalan Raya Nyuh Kuning just before the bridge, and they seem to be the perfect fit for the neighbourhood with their laid-back vibes and homey feel.

Long wooden tables allow for leisurely hangouts with friends or loved ones, and 60 UbudLife

there is a private table standing alone for group gatherings or a quiet low table in a covered bale in the garden for more intimate meals.

If you’re looking for sushi, this is not your spot, but if it’s authentic Japanese country cooking you’re looking for, then Kagemusha is a good call. Think Onigiri, rice balls wrapped in nori and filled with pickled plum and dried bonito flakes with soy, Teriyaki Don with sauteed chicken in teriyaki sauce served over rice, or Miso Katsu, a breaded deep fried pork cutlet topped with a tasty sweet miso sauce.

Kagemusha also does fabulous lunch sets every day between 11am and 3:30pm when you can choose from a range of dishes like the assorted seafood and vegetable tempura, chicken karage (golden fried chicken crispy on the outside and tender inside), or deep fried calamari tossed in Balinese sambal for just IDR 55.000. The sets also come with miso soup, rice, and a daily changing vegetable dish.

Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning, Ubud www.kagemusha-bali.jimdo.com

62 UbudLife

GETTING FRESH

FORWARD, BOOM, BACK PADDLE, STOP, BOOM BOOM, DOWN, FORWARD

by lisa c • images bali adventure rafting, jill alexander

W

hile these are not exactly the sounds of nature along Bali’s Ayung River, the commands served to keep us safely moving at just the right pace to absorb the lush, tropical jungle scenery. Our Bali Adventure Tours river guide explained that when he said ‘Boom’ we were all to hold on tightly to the rope in front, but when he said ‘Boom Boom’ that we were to slide to the bottom of the raft and brace for a major jolt. The river rapids flowed smoothly on the day, so there were not too many “booms” and “boom booms”, but still enough action to get the adrenalin rushing. They do have the longest run of rapids amongst any firm operating on the Ayung River, so at certain times of the year it can be a much wilder ride for serious thrill seekers.

It was a sunny day, so I would not have minded ‘accidently’ falling into the river for a refreshing dip, but I didn’t think that our safety first minded guide would appreciate having to rescue me.

He was having too much fun joking around with us and I did not want to risk damaging their impeccable safety record, which was one of the main reasons we choose this company. Midway along the river though, we were able to stop for a quick shower under an impressive waterfall.

They delivered in every respect, starting with the timely pick-up at our Ubud hotel, the well-organized check-in at their rafting start centre and the outfitting with cutting edge equipment. It was quickly apparent this was one well-oiled machine, which makes sense after 25 years in the adventure tourism business. It seemed as though they had even orchestrated the entire river experience, as despite numerous other companies launching their rafts, we floated in virtual solitude for most of the time.

This created plenty of time for us to really connect with nature. The overhanging trees provided shade over the deep river valley, and much of the route seemed untouched by a human hand. Even the few high end hotels we passed along the way seemed to be groomed for nature, blending in so well with the surroundings, that they went practically unnoticed.

UbudLife 63

Although the end of the river journey came all too soon for me, it was again all highly efficient. There are showers and toilets for those in need, while the hardier started climbing the 400+ steps to the top. I could have taken pity on myself as my legs began to burn, but there were men and women twice my age carrying our very heavy, collapsed rafts on their head.

When I asked our guide about whey they don’t mechanize this part of the operation, he advised that the owners feel it is important to give work and hence income, to the local villagers who can earn quite a reasonable sum during the busy season. I have witnessed many petite Indonesian women carrying enormous loads of gravel, bricks and other heavy items with grace and dignity, so I completely agree with this corporate philosophy.

A buffet lunch at the headquarters did not disappoint either, nor did the massage at their Japanese inspired Shinto Spa which I felt was imminently deserved after giving my muscles such a workout going up and down all those stairs.

Bali Adventure Tours also operate the Bali Elephant Park and Ride, downhill Mountain Cycling, River Kayaking and Trekking which can be combined into various packages. Their newest venture is Bali Adventure Skytours with state-of-the-art helicopters and four helipads.

Details at www.baliadventuretours.com or call (0361) 721480 for reservations.

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ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance wayang wong women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

tue

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

66 UbudLife

Ayung Resort Sebali Restaurant

Nacho Mama

Putri Bali Spa

Kopi Kat

Palm

Bintang Super Market

Wayan Karja

Terracota

Sri Ratih & Spa La Pacha Mama

Bridges Divine

Skin Spa

Villa Beji

Dalem Temple

Folk

Bali Healing Museum Puri Lukisan Griya

Warung Merta Sari

Nani Spa

We’are

Kebun

Bambooku Rainbow Spirit Warung Sopa

SenS

Sang Spa

Highway Neka Nomad Nirmala BPD Wr Siam Skin Biah Biah Fresh Soma Bali Star Coffee Yin Studio Perak EWA Milano Spa Down To Earth Cendana

Sensatia

Kopi Coffee

Ubud Sari Health Resort

Red Lotus

White Box

Gunung Merta Bungalow

Kailasha Restaurant

Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Pilar Batu

Garden Sopa Sisi

Taman Beji Spa

The Sunti

Kafe Topi

Kafe Arma

Sari Api Greenfield Buddha Bowl Goddess Jaens Spa Panorama Pizza Bagus

The Pond

Tropical View

Studio Perak

ISLAND OF BALI

Villa Beji Indah

Putri Ubud Spa

de’ waRung Sang Spa

Kunci

Biah-Biah+

Studio Perak

BSF

Arma Museum Arma Rsort

UBUD

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

UbudLife 69

LIGHTING UP THE FUTURE WITH SOLAR TECHNOLOGY A BRIGHTER FUTURE FOR THE POOR by lisa c • images courtesy of kopernik

ALTERNATIVE WAYS

H

igh technology is considered a mainstay of contemporary life, providing most people with all the basic essentials, plus the added convenience of empowering digital communication. Yet, these staples are inaccessible to far too many people globally, including Indonesia and other developing Asian countries. Worldwide, 1.3 billion people have no access to electricity and in Indonesia around 20% to 25% of the population is still living fully or partially off the country’s electricity grid.

Many of these people must rely on kerosene lamps for lighting, yet they generate fumes that contribute to eye irritation and serious respiratory health issues, with inhalation the equivalent of smoking two packs of cigarettes. These affects are particularly critical for young children who need to use this harmful form of lighting to study as sometimes do their parents to carry out income generating tasks during evening hours.

Furthermore they can easily cause fires in the thatched and wooden homes in poor communities. The expense is high too as families must continually buy kerosene, but today there is a viable option – solar lamps. Deriving energy from the sun is a technology that has long been around, but innovations and mass production have made it affordable even for those who are economically impoverished.

Yet, getting these solar lamps to the many remote villages dotted around the vast Indonesian archipelago represents a significant logistical challenge, which is where two organizations have stepped up to make a real difference in the lives of many. Their strategies differ, but their impact has been simply miraculous by delivering safer, brighter, less expensive lights to those in the greatest need.

Two long time United Nations team members believed strongly that despite all the good work being accomplished that not nearly enough people in dire circumstances had easy access to simple technologies to enhance their lives. In 2010 they created non-profit, Kopernik to “reach that last mile�. Headquartered in Ubud, their partnerships with locally based NGOs with close connections to some of the poorest and most remote communities around Asia have enabled them to deliver low-tech, affordable technologies such as solar lamps and water filters to thousands of rural communities.

Their business model is straight-forward. They source the best technologies for developing countries, identify donors to fund approved projects, deliver products via their local on-the-ground partners and re-invest sales profits into more technological advances.

The Mothers of Light program uses a different strategy, but one that is equally effective. The award-winning non-profit social enterprise of Nusantara Development Initiatives provides village women with solar lamp product knowledge; sales and marketing techniques; basic bookkeeping skills and after-sales service training, along with personal confidence building. Their microconsignment approach means mothers do not carry any debt and with a 98% repayment rate, it is a sustainable venture for both parties. Their concept is based on research showing that women reinvest more back into 72 UbudLife

their families than males, so by empowering these female solar light entrepreneurs entire communities are benefiting. It is the on-the-ground networks of mothers and their knowledge of who is the most credit worthy that has enabled more than 16,000 Indonesians to have access to clean, stable and affordable lighting. And the life of the families of these enterprising mothers has changed dramatically. Some of their best performers have been a 67 year old, Sumbanese grandmother who plans to buy her grandson a motorbike and an almost illiterate mother in a rural Lampung district who is now able to reach her dream of having glass windows in her home.

Such a simple solution to allow children to study longer and parents to work more, giving them all a much brighter future. Mother Earth is also very happy as tons of CO2 has been removed from the atmosphere.

For further information, please go to www.kopernik.ngo, call (0361) 977233 or visit their Ubud retail shop at Jalan Raya Pengosekan.

To support the Mothers of Light project, go to www.ndi. sg or email the Project Manager on majikuhibiniu@gmail.com.

You can give THE GIFT OF JOB OPPORTUNITY for US$ 250 which includes 5 lamps, and training and marketing materials.

LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Antur

Lovina

Gobleg

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Tambling Mund

BA

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

ST

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

R

Airanakan

Pe

a B e a ch

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

Temple

A

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang Labuhan lalang

Lake

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk Perancak

Munduk Yehkuning

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

Sanda Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Belimbing

Ampadan

Balia

Balian Beach

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

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Uluw

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Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA Banyuning

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Coral View Villas Euro Dive Bali

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

k

eg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

Sebatu

Penebel Perean Pitra

Sulahan Singarata

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CASHEWS OF KARANGASEM by stephanie m • images jill alexander

D

rive an hour or two northeast of Gianyar’s lush environs to the neighbouring regency of Karangasem in East Bali, and you will find a very different story. Here, lying in the rainshadow of Bali’s holiest mountain, Gunung Agung, climatic conditions for most of the year are extremely arid, making it difficult to grow anything except for the hardy cashew. And although cashews can be a lucrative crop, farmers in the area have historically struggled just to survive. That is, until East Bali Cashews entered the scene.

I

f you had visited Desa Ban in the foothills of Mount Agung about five years ago, you would have found a smattering of villages connected by bumpy roads winding through the dry, dusty landscape. Many communities had no access to electricity or consistent sources of freshwater, school attendance was poor, unemployment was high, and gambling and alcoholism were rampant.

The villagers of Ban had been planting cashews since the 1970s, not only because the cashew tree is tolerant to drought, grows quickly and can produce fruit for decades, but because they also saw a huge demand for the nuts. However, the villagers had little knowledge or financial means to process the nuts, so the majority of the raw cashews were purchased by dealers or middlemen and then sent to places like Vietnam and India to be processed.

This was the state of Desa Ban when Aaron Fishman and his wife began volunteering here with a local NGO in 2012. Their contract happened to coincide with the cashew season, and so while they were teaching the

76 UbudLife

VIABLE LIVES villagers about nutrition and public health procedures, the villagers were teaching them about cashews. It was easy to see that although this was prime cashew territory, very little money from the cashew industry trickled back to the villagers.

Aaron immediately saw the opportunity to open a processing plant in Bali that would function as a facility where they could produce a high-quality, unique local product and provide much-needed jobs and skills training to the people in the area. It only took a few months for Aaron to gain support of both local and foreign investors, and soon after East Bali Cashews was born.

From the beginning, Aaron envisioned East Bali Cashews as a social enterprise that would make a profit that could be returned to the community. He also saw it as a way to empower the local people of Ban. Aaron says, “I felt the best way to address the problems those people faced was to provide them with opportunities to work.�

In the first year, the company employed 130 people from Desa Ban, and today that number has risen to 350. Many employees who started as cashew peelers have worked their way up the ranks to management positions.

Moreover, 90 per cent of the employees are women. East Bali Cashews made this decision because they saw that there were almost no economic opportunities available to women in East Bali. Studies also show that women in developing areas are more likely to invest their income in education and health care than men.

All of the nuts from East Bali Cashews are sourced directly from cashew farmers within the community. The farmers gather the fruit by hand, remove the nut from the fruit, and then dry the nuts at community drying centres. East Bali Cashews supports the farmers by selling them materials to build cashew-drying centres on a debt-repayment system. This allows the farmers to produce better quality cashews that they can sell for more, and maintain autonomy over their own production.

Once East Bali Cashews buys the nuts, they are cleaned, roasted, shelled, cut, and peeled by hand in the factory. Then the nuts are flavoured with simple, natural Indonesian ingredients like sea salt, turmeric, kaffir lime, ginger, chilli and cacao. Finally, the nuts are checked for quality control, packaged and shipped to retailers here in Indonesia and abroad to Singapore, Japan and the US. UbudLife 77

East Bali Cashews will also soon be available in Hong Kong and Australia.

By processing the cashews locally, East Bali Cashews has cut down on CO2 emissions and fossil fuels by eliminating the need to transport the nuts to Vietnam and India for processing and then back to Indonesia. In addition, the company further reduces their carbon footprint by using mainly leftover cashew shells to power the machines at the factory. This then produces biochar, which is used to fertilize the crops in the surrounding area.

East Bali Cashews is also committed to a number of community development projects.

For example, AnaKardia Kids is a preschool on the factory site that provides day care, education and three healthy meals a day for children of factory employees and members of the community.

programs, university scholarships and farmer education. The foundation is funded mainly by donations and revenue from the company’s ecolodge, which is located in Ban and acts as an interactive learning centre for visitors, organizations and groups who want to learn about life in East Bali.

East Bali Cashews has come a long way in just five years. They now buy cashews from over 3,000 farmers and have become the region’s biggest employer. They are also on track to produce about 3,000 tonnes of cashews in 2016 (up from 180 tonnes in 2012), no small feat for a young start-up.

Aaron says, “We wanted to enhance our work with the community beyond our work as a social enterprise. There is very little schooling for children under seven years of age in this region and we wanted to change that. We want to give the children a chance for a brighter future”.

Other company initiatives include a factory store where employees can purchase subsidized groceries, and a farmer extension program that teaches farmers how to increase crop yields and encourages them to grow various alternative cash crops like rosella outside the three-month cashew season.

Beekeeping has also been introduced as another sustainable source of income for farmers and their families.

Another recent initiative is The Cashew Families Foundation, a non-profit organisation that supports community education in East Bali including professional development 78 UbudLife

Aaron believes that the secret to their success has always been passion, empowerment and sustainability. He says, “Our factory is a one-stop-shop that cares for the environment, the people, and the product quality.” And by engaging the community in their own improvement trajectory, East Bali Cashews has managed to produce real change and bring profit and progress both to the company and the people of East Bali.

TIPS

pura protocol

Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously.

Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

UbudLife 79

nEXT ISSUE image putu santosa

A Magical Walk Robot Man of Tenganan The Cultural triangle of Pejeng Heading East- close to Ubud are some megical wild beaches still uninhabited by Tourists

80 UbudLife

The bright morning in Padang Bay harbour, East Coast Bali

RESTAURANTS Bali Star Coffee Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 89671188648 www.balistar-coffee.com

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Ayung Resort Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Gunung Merta Bungalow Jl. Andong, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975463 Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com Terrace Abing Resort Banjar Kebon, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 980970 www.abingterrace.com

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 Bollero Bar & Resto Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972872 www.bollerobali.com Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com de Warung Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 971465 www.dewarung.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056 Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud www.kebunbistro.com

Kopi Coffee Ubud Market 2F, Ubud Phone: +62 89621071118 www.kopi-coffee.com KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 Kafe Topi Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 NOMAD Jl. Raya Ubud 35, Ubud Phone: 0361 977169 www.nomad-bali.com Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 Warung Alami Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Phone: 081 23913754 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81239655905 Wijaya Kusuma Restaurant Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com Cafe Havana Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972973 www.cafehavanabali.com UbudLife 81

SPAS Aura Theraphy Spa Ubud Aura Retreat Center Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 27997658 www.balihealingspa.com Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Nani Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Hp: 082 3404 15848 Sang Spa 1 Reborn Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973236 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa 2 Jl. Raya Jembawan 13B, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277222 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa 3 Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277333 www.sangspaubud.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Gootama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

82 UbudLife

SHOPS Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

GALLERIES

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

EWA Oceanic Art Gallery Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 8123 683 5261 www.ewaoceanicgallery.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 www.sisibag.com SISI + NANAN Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Hp: 085 1007 65896 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hp: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com

SPORT/RECREATION Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.com

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com

Joe’s Gone Diving Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 44a, Sanur Phone: 0361 270633 www.joesgonediving.com

Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com

MISCELLANEOUS HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

USEFUL NUMBERS

EAST BALI SECTION

Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com

Ambulance Airport Authority

118 751011

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office Search and Rescue

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Puri Wirata Dive Resort and Spa Jl. Raya Bunutan, Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23523 www.puriwirata.com Tirta Ayu Hotel & Restaurant Jl.Tirta Gangga, Karangasem Phone: 0363 22503 www.hoteltirtagangga.com Villarossa Candidasa Jl.Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 42062 www.villarossa.org

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074

Villa Sasoon Jl. Puri Bagus Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41511 www.villasasoon.com

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605 UbudLife 83

LAST WORD

Some stray thoughts...

Mark Ulyseas

This is not about love, sad dreams, forbidden thoughts, fornicating frogs in the rainy season or doves that copulate on tin roofs…nor the symphonies of Mother Nature serenading life.

It is about the mindless sense of belonging to places, persons, and things that have corrupted us. There is a need to detach ourselves from the virus riddled human computer that programs society. Sadly this is better said than done because humans are like dogs… pack animals. They need the power of the pack, the hierarchy and the silly sideshows of religious or political theatricals of pomp and pageantry devoid of any spirituality or common sense. It gives them a purpose, helps them to focus their delusions.

How does one break free from a pack and roam unfettered? In the past, many who had achieved this (broken free) became victims of sadistic elements stalking society. Nothing has changed.

Why do we need to belong or possess a place, person or thing? Can’t existence be simply sharing of knowledge, sharing of human desires and then walking away free of encumbrances? What enslaves most of us in this preconditioned life? And will we break free? And can we?

Perhaps the answer lies in these words from Georges Ivanovich Gurdjieff, Russian mystic, philosopher, spiritual teacher: “The crowd neither wants nor seeks knowledge, and the leaders of the crowd, in their own interests, try to strengthen its fear and dislike of everything new and unknown. The slavery in which mankind lives is based upon this fear. It is even difficult to imagine all the horror of this slavery.

We do not understand what people are losing. But in order to understand the cause of this slavery it is enough to see how people live, what constitutes the aim of their existence, the object of their desires, passions, and aspirations, of what they think, of what they talk, what they serve and what they worship.

Consider what the cultured humanity of our times spends money on; even leaving the war out, what commands the highest price; where the biggest crowds are. If we think for a moment about these questions it becomes clear that humanity, as it is now, with the interests it lives by, cannot expect to have anything different from what it has.”

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

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