Ubud Life 28th Edition

UbudLife NO. 28 • SEPTEMBER - NOVEMBER 2016

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

free TALKING THAI IDA BAGUS PUTRA ADNYANA MEGAN’S BEST OF UBUD LIST MYSTICAL TAMBLINGAN ADVENTURE

Ibu Rai, as she was well known to many travelers in the 60’s, was born 1925.

She sold food and her “Warung” became quite famous, even travel books recommended it as place to find safe and good quality food for foreigners. Her son, Dewa Gede, opened a restaurant in 1986 at family land and as a tribute to his mother courage and enterprise, called it Ibu Rai Restaurant. He carries on his mother’s. Our restaurant is specially selected for nutrition and natural flavors using the best and freshest ingredients. All are carefully presented and with friendly service. “Hope you enjoy our food with taste of Asian Spices”.

72 Monkey Forest Street Ubud Bali | +62 361 973472 restaurant@iburai.com | www.iburai.com

EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu Welcome to our new edition of Ubud Life, we hope you enjoy it. As usual we bring you lots of delicious food stories and bring you some new restaurants to discover. The inimitable Ayu Sekar will take you to one of Bali’s wild eastern beaches that has managed to remain pristine.

Bali has its fair share of ancient monuments and history and things are not always as they seem. We visit some amazing old temples in the Pejeng region, that are still little known to most visitors. It is always interesting to visit ancient sites, no matter which country we are in. They give a sense of the past, which merges with the present and make our lives richer as we discover that life and civilisations date back for millennia. A new perspective is presented and we can learn that we are just not of the now, but connected to larger and more ancient mysteries of the past.

Richard Horstman introduces us to the well regarded photographer Ida Bagus Putra Adnyana (known by his friends as simply Gustra).

His body of work is both large and impressive. We hope you enjoy the issue.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Putu Santosa

Besakih, Mother Temple of Bali welcomes the devout every day and visitors will often witness huge ceremonies there.

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors jean couteau ayu sekar jenny b ibu kat stephanie mee richard horstman rachel love publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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contents 18

TALKING THAI

44

MEGAN’S BEST OF UBUD LIST

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BETWEEN TWO RIVERS PEJENG’S ANCIENT SITES

EXPLORING THE LESSER SUNDA ISLANDS & KOMODO

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GUSTRA

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LAKE TAMBLINGAN BEDUGUL’S HIDDEN GEM

happenings around ubud Galungan marks the beginning of the most important of Bali’s recurring ceremonies. The most obvious sign of the celebrations are the penjor - bamboo poles with offerings suspended at the end. They are placed outside each house, in each village all over the island.

Many special festivities and ceremonies occur around this special festive time. Enjoy!

Galungan Festival From September 7th until the 18th, Bali will be looking her best as every village, indeed every house, dresses for the island’s favourite ceremony.

Galungan marks the victory of dharma over adharma and is celebrated every 210 days.

This beautiful festival season marks the time when the ancestral spirits visit the Earth. The last day of the celebration is Kuningan, when they return. The date is calculated according to the 210-day Balinese calendar.

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Ubud’s New Yoga Center Just over the bridge in Nyuh Kuning is Ubud’s first Vikram/ Astanga/ Yoga space. Defined by a huge wall of glass bricks which lets in the light, the space is huge and plenty big enough for lots of classes. A heated room, another room filled with straps for arial yoga, a space for coffee and snacks and a bar are all coming soon, with it all looking out over the unspoiled Wos River. Prices are competitive and packages are available. I Mony, the proprietor, has an MBA degree from Indiana University, and after working for multinational companies

in USA, Europe and Asia she has turned yogini. The major breakthrough was an accident that left her with a fractured right shoulder and a dislocated knee. Ignoring doctors advice for surgery, she used her yoga practice to heal her physical, emotional wounds. It was a painful and long process, but it was rewarding at the end.

She decided Bikram yoga was for her and went on to follow her passion. She has studied and is now certified to teach many styles of yoga.

After opening her first Yoga studio in Jakarta in 2004, she has nnow opened in Ubud.

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Bali Strikes Gold for Health - Conscious Foodies Ubud is fast becoming known as Bali’s culinary hub. With a soaring number of restaurants offering an abundance of options - from organic raw food cuisine to vegetarian and vegan delicacies – there’s something to satiate the appetite of every customer; from budding foodie to well-traveled gastronome.

In fact, the Bali tourist trail now sees many health-conscious travelers arriving on its shores in search of the ultimate epicurean delights - as much as they seek out the ubiquitous rice fields, beach and spa. Not only do Bali’s restaurants and cafés today feature some of the world’s top-tier chefs and menus; but tourists often come equipped with a list of de rigueur edible delights: Raw chocolate.

Mango and dragon-fruit smoothie. Coconut or bamboo gelato. Raw Nasi Goreng – a traditional Balinese dish-with-a-twist. If your stay in Bali coincides with the 2nd Bali Vegan

Pyramids of Chi A new buzz is going around Ubud as the latest healing venue struggles to wards completion.

Hidden out in the Bali heartlands amidst verdant rice fields, the brand new Pyramids of Chi complex promises to add a whole new dimesion to Bali’s healing scene. Looking like Giant teepees, the two pyramids promise to provide health and healing in just a few short weeks.

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Festival (October 7-9, 2016), then you’re in for a real treat: Down to Earth and Paradiso Ubud host a three-day gathering with live music, presentations, yoga and dance workshops, and a sea of stalls slated to offer a wide choice of the island’s best vegan food. More information: www.baliveganfestival.com.

Essentially this is a project about healing and rejuvenation where the pyramids will provide the energy and space for meditations and peace.

When pyramid energy combines with a water location, and the energies of resonating instruments such as gongs, drums & didgeridoo, it becomes a powerful healing tool. The rhythm of the gongs works with sandalwood scent and peaceful atmosphere of the to reduce ‘beta-wave’ activity, the brain waves that dominate aroused conscious thought, and increase the intensity of ‘thetawaves’ within the brain. This full relaxation, that works through the cakras helps relieve stress, sleep deprivation and anxiety.

While the pyramid building is still in progress, the restaurant is already operating and is a great place to come for breakfast, lunch or an excellent coffee!

Pyramids of Chi, Tegallalang, UBud, Bali, W: www.facebook.com › Places › Ubud › Health Food Restaurant – the website is under construction so watch for it.

So what is salt therapy good for? The antibacterial and anti inflammatory properties of the salt help to build the immune system, clear the skin, adjust sleep disorders, help with skin cancers, and a range of respiratory ailments, including colds, bronchitis, emphysema and asthma. Even the hair benefits! Anyone suffering from psoriasis or eczema can do a course of treatments and get their skin looking good again. Groups and meditation groups are also accommodated.

The Salt Room - Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud | T: 0361 9080810

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YAYASAN – helping Bali’s kids to get ahead by ayu sekar

Knowing the way Balinese families are, and the constant need for money for ceremonies, (or cockfighting) children are not given money directly, but they have all their scholastic needs met – which includes uniforms, school bags, school fees, books and sundries. They may be given a little pocket money to buy snacks during school breaks.

Aid also includes medical and dental care and one student who has already graduated from dental school, now helps look after the youngsters teeth.

Sponsors from Europe and elsewhere donate money to the organization, which is used with complete transparency so that they can rest assured it is not a profit making concern.

W

hile some international organisations refuse aid to Bali, in the mistaken belief that the island has no poverty, the reality is very different. In the hot, dry infertile parts of east Bali, poverty is rampant with over 60% of villagers living below the poverty line. Children need help to eat, and also to go to school. This is the area where the Yayasan www.anakbali.org do most of their good work.

This Yayasan has seven project areas, including one in Bunutan in Amed and several dotted around Singaraja. They keep the numbers fixed at around 250 children in the program, so that the numbers are manageable. There is a better chance to follow them and aid them through their whole scholastic life, from Primary School until the end of university, if they are gifted.

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European members involved with helping are all volunteers who receive no reimbursement for their help. The Indonesian team members, many who have left well paying jobs in the tourist industry to embrace their humanitarian career of course need compensation for their efforts.

Extra curricular activities are also part of the program. Computor skills, libraries, dance, music, art classes and extra English classes are all available.

If you feel that you would like to contribute to the welfare of a young Balinese person, please contact the Yayasan and be assured that your contribution will be well spent. It is possible to visit the centres and see for yourself.

YAYASAN www.anakbali.org | E: anakbali1@yahoo.com T: (0361) 976602, 081999012157 They also have an office in Lotunduh.

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Talking Thai I

by stephanie mee • image warung siam

f you’ve ever spent any time in Thailand, you probably know how hard it is to find an authentic bowl of tangy tom yam kung or fiery som tam salad outside the kingdom. In Ubud Thai restaurants are slightly thin on the ground, but there are a few doing stellar Thai dishes that would be right at home on the streets of Bangkok or Chiang Mai. From time-tested favourites to newbies amping up the spice, these are our top picks for Thai restaurants in Ubud.

EATING AROUND

WARUNG SIAM Located on a happening stretch of Goutama Street that is fast becoming Ubud’s own Eat Street, Warung Siam can be spotted for its bright red patio out front and the Thai flags fluttering above.

Inside the space is cosy and comfortable with small wooden tables and a giant mural of soldiers battling on elephants along one wall. The old-fashioned lanterns and wood panelling also add a nice homey touch.

Owner Jue is originally from South Thailand, and his authentic homestyle dishes have been winning rave reviews ever since he opened Warung Siam two and a half years ago. In fact the restaurant has been so successful that Jue went on to open Buddha Bowl on Hanoman Street (for Thai and Vietnamese dishes), as well as a second Warung Siam in Seminyak.

Other popular dishes include the Yam Woon Sen, a glass noodle salad with minced chicken, calamari rings and prawns dressed with a sweet and sour sauce and topped with peanuts, and the classic Pad Thai Gai featuring chicken, dried shrimps and rice noodles in a light tamarind sauce, topped with a fried egg lattice and served with sides of chopped peanuts, chilli flakes and bean sprouts.

The great thing about the menu here is that it doesn’t pander to Western palates.

The dishes are listed with their Thai name along with a helpful description, and they come loaded with a vibrant array of fresh herbs, chillies and spices. Take for example the Gang Keaw Wan Gai with chicken, green eggplant and long beans in an aromatic green curry sauce served with pickled vegetables and a fiery chilli, garlic and vinegar concoction on the side.

Jalan Goutama No. 7, Ubud www.facebook.com/ warungsiam/

SIAM SALLY Already nine years running and still going strong, Siam Sally has long been the go-to spot in Ubud for Thai food for good reason. The inviting interior looks like a Thai shophouse with rustic wooden walls, birdcages, and softly lit lanterns, and the menu was designed by their Thai executive chef, so the dishes are true to Siam spices and made with fresh produce from Bali Good Food group’s organic farm.

Standout starters include the Crisp Morning Glory Salad with tempura-fried morning glory leaves, tender squid, chicken and cashews in a tangy Thai dressing and the Som Tam salad with crunchy

green papaya and peanuts, tons of flavour from the cherry tomatoes, lime and dried shrimp, and just a hint of heat.

Sally’s Summer Rolls are a great vegan option with fresh veggies, herbs and cashews rolled in rice paper and served with a soy cilantro dipping sauce.

For mains the curries are a good bet, as they come with your choice of proteins like vegan braised tempeh, beef tenderloin, roasted duck, pork or chicken, and each features housemade curry paste and creamy coconut milk. Other favourites among the mains include the crisp batter-fried Jatujak Chicken and the Seafood ‘Drunken’ Noodles that come with a riot of prawns, squid and mussels tossed with fresh rice noodles and an umami-packed sauce with basil and hot chillies.

Jalan Hanoman, Ubud www.siamsally.com

ARMA THAI The setting at ARMA Thai is pure colonial elegance with white linen tablecloths and gilded pillars inside, gently bubbling water features and cushioned wicker furniture on the timber deck outside. Cross the small bridge over the river and you can also set up camp in the lofty gazebo in the lush garden.

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A tall glass of milky Thai iced tea is a great way to start the meal, as are their tempting appetisers like the Hor Mok Hed, a red curry custard with mushrooms, cabbage and basil steamed in a banana leaf, or the Tom Kha Gai, a traditional Thai chicken soup with a creamy coconut milk broth scented with lemongrass, galangal, coriander root and kaffir lime leaves.

For heartier fare they offer a mix of veggie, meat and fish dishes. Carnivores can dig into the Moo Yang marinated pork with a sweet and sour barbecue sauce or the Gang Massaman, a mild red curry with chicken, potatoes and green peas. Vegetarians might prefer the Pla Sam Rod, a whole grouper deep fried until crispy and resting on a rich sweet and sour sauce or the Pad Yord Fak Maew, stir fried greens in a garlic and oyster sauce.

One thing to note about ARMA Thai is that they definitely tone down the spice levels for Western tastes, which is good if you’re not a fan of fiery flavours. However, those who like to feel the burn might want to ask the staff to step up the spice significantly.

Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud www.armabali.com/ restaurant/arma-kitchenlounge/

TAMAN THAI Taman Thai may be a bit of a drive from the centre of town, but the route to get there is scenic and the food is definitely worth the trip. Run

by Thai native Doll and her husband Jean, this sweet little spot sits amid the rice paddies of Junjungan with simple wooden tables that look out to a small garden, and an open kitchen where Doll whips up authentic recipes from home.

Start with a cold Bintang or fresh juice, or ask Doll if she happens to have any of her ridiculously good iced milk tea brought in specially from Thailand. Then whet your appetite with starters like the Golden Fried Prawns, Thai Fish Cakes with red curry and vegetables, and fried Spring Rolls with glass noodles and vegetables served with a sweet chilli sauce.

Your main meal could consist of a big bowl of Tom Yam Kung soup with fresh prawns and mushrooms in a spicy broth infused with lemongrass and Thai herbs, an ample serving of the Waterfall Salad with grilled beef or pork resting on a bed of cabbage and mint leaves and seasoned with a piquant lemon dressing, or the Chicken & Cashew Nut stir fry with homemade roasted chilli paste.

Jalan Tirta Tawar, Junjungan, Ubud

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HISTORICAL

BETWEEN TWO RIVERS - PEJENG’S ANCIENT SITES by ayu sekar • images jill alexander

H

idden in between stands of verdant jungle, the clear waters of the Pejeng and Pakerisan streams gurgle their way down from the slopes of Mt Batur, over rocks and convoluted water courses past parts of Bali’s ancient history. These two rivers form a holy rectangular area that is home to many monuments that lie lost and almost forgotten.

Once this holy area was alive with monks and seers. Reshis or holy men came from India, drawn by a shining light, rather like the three wise men were drawn to Bethlehem. They established temples and shrines in remote but beautiful energy spots. Tombs and meditation hermitages were carved out of solid rock, providing refuge and peace. Now many lay languishing and almost forgotten and difficult to access.

While some, like the Elephant Cave of Goa Gajah, and the imposing Hindu shrines of Gunung Kawi are firmly placed on the tourist trail, others languish half forgotten visited only by the intrepid, and local mystics. Scattered along the banks of the pristine Pakerisan River, these archeological treasures still exude a strong and mystic energy. Many of these earlier shrines are Buddhist as Buddhism arrived in Indonesia well before the advent of Hinduism.

Even the Goa Gajah (elephant cave) only became known to Westerners in 1923. At that time it was buried beneath mud and volcanic ash rather like the ancient Buddhist shrine of Borobodur in Java. It is thought to date from the 11th century, like many of the shrines along the Pakerisan.

Here at Goa Gajah the Buddhist and Hindu areas are separate, and I remember when visiting this site many years ago, there were stone Buddha statues lying strewn, amongst the long grasses.

Steps lead down to the main temple while further below are the Buddhist remnants.

The small meditation cave that lies behind the gorgeously carved façade of an elephant, probably Ganesha, is decorated with niches, which no doubt held Buddha and Shivaite statues and icons. This whole complex, like many of the others, resonates with the sound of running water, a theme often repeated with Bali’s culture. Further below in a verdant ravine lies a small stream with a huge toppled Buddha Statue, a holy spring and more shrines.

This is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, yet it seems, barely publicised. In the citation for World Heritage, eight sites in this area are listed, the most important being Pura Tirta Empul - Bali's UbudLife 27

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most revered holy spring - Goa Gajah Cave and Pegulingan Temple. The "Temple of the Giants", Pura Pengukur-ukuran, by contrast is little known and little-visited, but it is one of the most intriguing sites.

The little known Gua Garba, is a truly wonderful place that inspires all who are lucky enough to visit. Only the faรงade and the meditation caves remain, while a much newer temple rises behind it.

But lost here in the jungle, it was a place of meditation and the strong energy is still there, centuries later. Built around the 12th century AD during the reign of King Jayapangus, based on inscriptions, it is dominated by a huge stone staircase leading up to the square stone entrance which could have been built for a giant. Huge boulders are placed to make the steps, a challenging walk for one of normal size.

days as throngs of visitors come to pray and pay homage to their gods.

Also, along the Pakerisan River, hidden down a deep stone carved staircase, is the magnificent Gunung Kawi Temple.

Two rows of royal tombs, hewn from solid rock stand as monument to some long forgotten ancient ruler. The river flows though the centre of the complex and once again reiterates, the theme of holy water.

Visiting these temple sites is a two edged sword. On one hand, visitors bring much needed income to the guardians of these holy areas, but at the same time, it could bring less holy energies to the sacred places. So please if you visit them, bring sarongs and a lot of contemplative demeanour!

A little further north the better known Tirta Empul complex is well visited. As most Balinese temples, it is laid out in three mandalas, or concentric circles. While the inner mandala represents heaven, the middle circle represents the world of human beings, and the outer circle, the environment. It is a different concept to western thinking, which makes it even more interesting for us visitors. It is very popular n Balinese holy UbudLife 29

THE MUDA MUDI

YOUTH ASSOCIATION by jean couteau • image gsb

O

utside the building, two young girls are giggling.

Above the entrance hangs a big board with the word "Bar" written in awkward letters. Shadows dance as red lights flash on and off to the beat of hard-rock music. Boys are sitting drinking, surrounded by pretty girls.

Is it a go-go bar? Have the Bangkok lights and shadows taken over Bali? No, not yet, thank God. It is a provisional bar set up by the muda mudi (youth association) as a fund-raising event.

The historical genius of the Balinese has been to create an environment of smooth social intercourse. This special trait is best illustrated by the banjar, a neighborhood association where the Balinese spend much of their ritual and social life. The banjar not only looks after its members in moments of "joy and sorrow" alike - as put in its name "banjar suka duka ", but it also organizes their participation at supra -banjar level rituals such as temple festivals and cremations. It thus creates an unequalled density of social intercourse.

The youths, called muda mudi or sometimes truna truni , have always been part of this banjar system, either in giving a hand at a village working-bee, standing in for a busy father or uncle, or hanging around the balai banjar collective hall to play gamelan music or just look at the girls.

Until the seventies, however, these youths had no status of their own. They were just in a position of expectation, waiting for marriage, usually to a local girl or boy. Only then, as a married couple (pekurenan) would they obtainbanjar and village (desa) citizenship, with its share of rights and duties such as access to land and responsibility for shrines. A youth's participation in banjar activities was thus marginal. Youth was just a passage.

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This situation has now changed. All over Bali, in all the banjar neighborhoods, as well as at the desa village level, youth associations, called seka muda-mudi --or seka truna-truni-- have sprung up "like mushrooms in the rainy season". They now play an important role in the running of local banjar or village affairs, particularly in relation to modern matters.

The first youth associations were set up during the independance and postindependance days, when the new generations of educated pemudas--the Indonesian word for youth--spear-headed the independance movement and the subsequent political struggles. This association did not involve village youths as such, though. They were supra-village, national organisations, created to meet the political challenges of the times. Every one knows what were the results of this politisation: the 1965 events.

In later years, the generalisation of postprimary education, enhanced by a more stable political environment, completely changed the nature of the challenges. Villages found themselves with hundreds of young, idle, unmarried men and women without any rights or status. The birth of banjar youth associations,

CULTURE COMMENT sometimes even in the village, was the response to this challenge. Although of recent origin, these associations have now completely blended and identified with the other village institutions.

The conditions under which and the ways whereby young people become members of the muda-mudi association vary from place to place. Sometimes it is based upon the appearance of the physical signs of adolescence such as menstruation and change of voice, but in other cases it is based on the age, school level or relative maturity of the youth.

Muda mudi associations are run exactly like the banjar and other village organisations.

They have an elected primus inter pares head, the ketua, and a small administrative committee completes with a secretary, a treasurer and a messenger. Generally, the association has its girl’s (mudi or truni ) section, patterned on a similar model. This is a big change from the regular village organisations, where the women’s voice is not heard at all. Most associations usually meet every Balinese pawukon month, i.e. every 35 days, although some go by the Gregorian month.

Muda mudi youths willingly lend a helping hand at banjar neighborhood activities, under the supervision of the klian banjar head. Their role is limited though. They never take part in the religious aspects of the work, such as the preparation of the shrines, which remains the responsibility of the married “citizens.” They may however be entrusted with security and welcome duties or with the holding of non-religious dance performances or fund raising activities. In all of these, the youths operate as a group, training themselves for their future role as banjar members.

Most of the muda mudi meeting time, however, is spent on activities related to youth. The association comprises sections for sports, dance, training etc. In some regions, dance in particular is very important. The youth set up "Ramayana" or "Tari Lepas" groups that perform during temple festivals or even occasionally in hotels. Their dancing is either an "offering" addressed to the village and visiting gods, or a way to raise money for the dance group itself or for other muda mudi pursuits, such as embroidery courses or English lessons amongst others.

Their favorite way to raise money, however, is by holding the so-called bars or fundraising parties. The girls prepare the food and organize the welcoming committee, while the boys look after the security and the general running of the bar.

Invitations are extended, which are difficult to refuse, or at least, if one is wary of one’s image in the village. Prices are inflated, but that is expected, since holding a bar is one of the ways to raise money for the group.

Good humor and good clean fun prudery is the rule, although the atmosphere is one of deafening pop music and red lights.

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One of the side attractions of the bar is also to get to know the young people from neighboring banjars and villages. They are usually invited in turn, one muda mudi association after the other, and all are keen to come. The purpose is obvious. It is a chance for the boys and girls to get to know each other. Since the invitations are formal, and the security tight, the behavior of everyone is generally very correct. To misbehave would bring shame not only on the person, but on the whole invited group. In this way, village youths manage to broaden the range of “mate-hunting” while keeping risky “accidents” to a minimum.

girl. Usually a regular late night visitor of a girl from the banjar will be revealed so that “everyone knows”, and thus, is warned and even threatened. Some youth associations with help from the banjar even go as far as enforcing “night curfews” or limit the hours of visits, lest one is compelled to marry. But shame and embarrassment usually suffice to check the wanton ways of boys.

The muda mudi association has internal controls over its members as well, although it is less formal, since a local “scoundrel” can always be caught and compelled to marry the

In Bali, adolescence is a smooth passage into adulthood. Much of this is due to the muda mudi association.

If the liaison does end up in a marriage, as expected, members of the muda mudi organise a special visit, present a gift, and then the bond is severed: the new couple will now become full banjar citizens.

Art Bridge - An Indonesia-Korea Art Exchange Project

A

bridge connecting the two countries which are geographically distant with different art, and cultural traditions can be achieved through art. An Art bridge, connects the two countries showing similarities rather than the differences.

This art exchange project involving six artists from Indonesia and six artists from South Korea, begins with the exhibition in Seoul, South Korea, and then continues in Bali, Indonesia. They will do art activities together, interacting with each other, thus getting to know each culture more closely. This bridge project is created by Antonius Kho and Yeoun Dong Kim. Antonious has already made several such projects in Asia, Europe and Africa.

Bali, starting 3rd October 2017, at ARMA Museum.

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WHO’S WHO

IDA BAGUS PUTRA ADNYANA I

by richard horsman • images ayu sekar

n the 1920’s the first ever collection of black and white photographs of Bali were published in two volumes. In the previous century, however, Dutch colonialist began documenting the island and images began to trickle through to a select, and curious European audience. In the current era of digital media saturation, iconic images of Bali remain potent, increasingly inspiring new visitors to the island.

Over time, layer-by-layer outsiders have been exposed to riches of the unique Balinese Hindu culture. One photographer, Ida Bagus Putra Adnyana, from a Brahmana priest family, the highest caste of the Balinese social structure, is able to reveal rare digital insights into one of the most fascinating of local worlds. Gustra, as he his known, brings insider’s knowledge of his subjects, and is often granted access to rare ritual ceremonies to photograph with the greatest possible intimacy.

“For as long as I have owned a camera, I have had the feeling of possessing visual authority,” said Gustra, who first delved into photography in 1978 and represents a mixture of four different aspects. “First I took photos as my hobby, then I was occupied with documentary photography and ultimately made it my profession. I also undertake numerous commissioned projects for third parties.”

A self-taught photographer, born 1958 in Denpasar, Gustra first studied law, yet in 1984 he began devoting his energy full time to photography, soon becoming an in-demand professional, and successfully forging a noted career. He switched from analogue to digital photography in 2000.

“Taking photographs in the digital age is a mass phenomenon,” Gustra said. “You don’t need to be a special person or have any specific equipment, you can simply use your mobile phone. Now with the power of social media portals like Facebook and Instagram people can upload images that can be immediately accessed by enormous global audiences.

Subjects of beauty and power of Gustra’s culture have for many years been at the center of his attention. He has photographed most of the UbudLife 35

leading cultural identities in Bali, his black and white portraits capturing sensitive and revealing moments of his subjects. Recently, however he has delved into image experimentation utilizing modern technology and working in front of his large computer screen.

“Citra Nyata, Tak Nyata, 3 Rupa dalam 3 Dasawarsa” (Images Real, Not Real, 3 Types of Forms in 30 Years), Gustra’s exhibition, 14-22 May at the Bentara Budaya Bali Cultural Center in Ketewel, highlighted an array of his work in various styles and themes. Including his digital art photography, some works had an extra dimension, decorated with dynamic hues of acrylic paint. “Kijang Kencana” 2015, a black and white composition of duality, tension and impending danger juxtaposed a beautiful maiden with a mighty demon, while “Gue R Nika, Illusi Kubisme” 2016, a black and white marvel of inter locking human and animal forms rendered via Photoshop and inspired by cubism, were some of the highlights of his exhibition.

Having published two books in his own right, while being a photo contributor to 7 international books, some of the most delightful cultural albums published in Indonesia and Singapore feature Gustra’s detailed lens work. He has work with the most respected authorities in the fields of fine art, antiques, history and culture, such as Dr. Adrian Vickers, Bruce Carpenter and Jean Couteau. Carpenter’s magnificent 2015 “Indonesian Tribal Art” book, and “Inventing Art: The Paintings of Batuan, Bali by Bruce Gransquist are testaments to Gustra’s work.

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September heralds the release of Gustra’s most recent photo essay “Bali – Ancient Rites In The Digital Age”, with complimenting text by renowned cultural wordsmith Diana Darling. The books aims to bring clarity to Bal’s extraordinary religious rituals. For the foreigner, many ceremonies, while appearing visually rich, remain obscure. The personal portfolio of work captured between 20112015, along with an array of imagery, features ceremonial scenes from remote East Bali, ancient and authentic, yet different to what we may witness in the local regency of Gianyar. While some of these images may appear strange, even shocking to Western eyes, he allows us a window into that which is rarely documented in Bali.

Including close up investigation of the rituals, along with specific notes made on location “Bali – Ancient Rites In The Digital Age” features extraordinary images, for example, the initiation of a high priest involving the priest licking the foot of his teacher in a symbolic gesture of the transformation of knowledge and power from guru to pupil.

Having regularly exhibited in Bali and Jakarta, as well as in Frankfurt and Japan, Gustra has won many prizes, as well as being published internationally in books and periodicals.

Gustra has the distinction of winning the “Tourist Motif” competition for three years in a row, award by the Governor of Bali (1985-87).

Constantly interacting with the finest creative minds he meets, both locals and foreigners in the essential dialogue, Gustra is highly active on Facebook. As a senior photographer he plays an important role in educating the young, growing local community of photographers. He posts articles on unusual and talented international photographers, interesting media documentations, competitions, and articles offering tips and inspiration to others.

“In Bali there are photographers who succeed via competitions, or through business. Often others follow the competition winner’s style, or themes and then trends develop. Not many have the talent and dedication to succeed in the art world and sometimes the young artists have borders. They must be very brave and believe in their dreams, work hard and be open to, and work with many people, locals and foreigners, in order to learn and improve,” Gustra said.

“Photographers must exhibit in big events and in big venues to gain more exposure and support from the public, along with media attention. Special management is required to co ordinate events and projects. There are many young, talented photographers in Bali, however to support the development of photography we need generous patrons as the production costs are higher than other art forms.”

UbudLife 37

FRESH! SPA AD

Meghan’s Best of Ubud list Bali Spirit visionary, Yoga Barn co-creator, Kafe founder, social entrepreneur and all-round maven, Meghan “the whirlwind” Pappenheim – shares her rare insights into Ubud, her home for over 20 years. She aims to promote whatever sustains Bali’s culture before it’s gone to help you make the most of your stay in Ubud.

Café Wayan For the best Balinese food in a beautiful garden setting, head to Café Wayan on Jalan Monkey Forest (just across from Laughing Buddha). Here, you can experience old-style Bali comfortably seated in a traditional bale surrounded by tropical blooms. Don’t miss Sunday evening’s famed Balinese buffet!

Jegog at Pura Dalem Ubud

Monkey Forest Monkey Forest is magical in the early morning or late afternoon. Take a stroll at 7am or 5.30pm and get to experience the troupe when they are chilled out, super cool and amazing to watch.

If you’re lucky, you’ll witness Balinese in ceremonial dress performing community prayers in the main temple within the forest.

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at the bar at Bridges. There’s something magical about sitting over a glass of wine or two while taking in the view of the historic Tjampuhan Bridge above and the Wos river snaking below. (Ed: This is Meghan’s ‘escape’ – though she is more often spotted at Kebun on Jalan Hanoman – a great place to share a bottle with friends or enjoy a romantic dinner.)

Divine Wine Bar at Bridgese For an authentic slice of old Bali – and scenery that ravished generations of European artists since the 1930s – do spend an evening

Don’t miss Wednesday evening’s Jegog at Pura Dalem Ubud. Most people find gamelan slow and boring but West Bali’s Jegog is energetic and exciting. The Yowana Swara troupe of musicians and dancers create powerful music with their bamboo instruments by the banyan tree within this enchanting temple.

TOP TIPS

Spirit of Bali by Semara Ratih Gunung Kawi and Tirta Empul No-one should leave Bali without a visit to Tampaksiring, 45 minutes northeast of Ubud! Gunung Kawi is an awe-inspiring 11th Century temple complex , carved out of the rock-face on either side of the sacred Pakerisan river, and reached by a 270-step climb down into the valley past centuries-old rice terraces. Best to go early in the morning before the crowds arrive – in fact, hit anything that is a tourist focus before 9am or after 4pm to avoid the tour buses. Also in Tampaksiring is Pura Tirta Empul, one of Bali’s most important temples where sacred purification springs attract Balinese devotees from all over the island. They bathe in the crystal clear pools, dipping their heads under a series of 13 sanskrit-inscribed waterspouts, leaving offerings, and taking home holy water for their own ceremonies.

You’re in for a treat if you are in Ubud on a Tuesday. Semara Ratih is a collective of top musicians, dancers, composers and choreographers who have performed around the world. Their Spirit of Bali performance – a feast for the senses served by scores of musicians and dancers – takes place at 7.30pm at Pura Dalem Kutu (500 metres up Jalan Tirta Tawar). The best Balinese dance!

Ikatbatik Ikatbatik is keeping alive the ancient tradition of natural indigo dyeing, and visiting their courtyard gallery on Jalan Monkey Forest is like stepping back into old Bali. Their stunning indigo textiles are irresistible (and easily packable) works of art, whether a shirt, scarf, placemat, cushion or wall hanging.

Yoga Barn The Yoga Barn is one of Ubud’s premier attractions and people come from all over the world to study yoga here, they come to stay and take in the yoga vibe or even to do an ayurvedic retreat and the integrated ayurvedic spa. Do take a class with Murni, Yoga Barn’s Operations Manager.

This ‘home-grown’ talent has been with Yoga Barn since its inception in 2007 – and with the Bali Spirit team for much longer – and is one of its top teachers. Her popular ‘Intro to Yoga’ and ‘Vinyassa Flow’ classes are enriched by her knowledge of Balinese culture and devotional practice.

Monday night movies and the regular sound healing events are also Yoga Barn highlights.

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Kevala Ceramics Pop into Kevala on Jalan Dewi Sita and be bowled over by their beautiful tableware and decorative pieces – contemporary stoneware ceramics handmade by highly skilled artisans who are continuing a local handicrafts tradition that otherwise may have disappeared.

Fresh Spa Good quality treatments, a wonderful atmosphere, happy staff, awesome owners…. and the best manipedi in town! What’s there not to love about Fresh Spa on Jalan Dewi Sita? After an hour or so of pampering, pop over to co-owner Joanna Witt’s Yin Jewellery further along the street to pick up a piece of Mule jewellery; proceeds support a popular arts programme for prisoners in Bali’s Kerobokan jail.

Tegun Galeri There’s always room in your luggage for a piece of art.

Balinese paintings and handcrafted jewellery are now the focus of Tegun Galeri on Jalan Hanoman. After browsing artworks for the wall or the wrist, nip next door to Kebun or Kafe for a bite to eat.

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Jalan Gootama Take a stroll down Jalan Gootama – despite crazy motorbikes it still manages to feel like a pedestrian street. Dubbed Ubud’s ‘Eat Street’, it’s lined with a quirky

range of warungs, cafes and restaurants; whether you yearn for satay or sushi, pad thai or pizza, crepes or curry, Asian fusion or British fish & chips, you’ll find it here. It’s also home to Nirvana Batik, where Pak Nyoman and his family run fun batik courses – a great way to spend an afternoon and return home with your own piece of art!

Topeng Museum Hats off to Pak Hadi Sunyoto for creating the House of Masks and Puppets to share his collection of 1,200 masks and 4,700 puppets from all over the Indonesian archipelago, Southeast Asia, Africa and Japan. His singleminded mission to conserve this traditional art-form inspires people to learn about the old culture. It’s worth a visit for the setting alone –an enchanting one-hectare tropical garden bordered by rice fields and a traditional Balinese village. Then head to Mas to visit the wood carvers who have chosen to keep alive their craftsmanship honed over generations.

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ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

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Spirit of Bali words and image ayu sekar

These beautiful young girls of Bungaya, in Karangasem are preparing to dance the sacred Rejang - the dance of the virgins at their temple’s odalan.Â

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Room with a view

Restaurants and cafes with ravishing vistas by jenny • image ayu sekar

I

t is still staggering to Bali old-timers that there’s such a vast choice of world cuisines in Ubud: Balinese, Indonesian, Italian, Mexican, Middle Eastern, Mediterranean, Japanese, Thai, Chinese, British, French, Asian fusion, Indian, Spanish, Peruvian, Caribbean and many more. It’s a far cry from a decade ago when, other than local warungs, there were only a handful of restaurants to choose from – and few opened beyond 8pm.

We’ve come to expect great food, great (and still improving) service, and a constant supply of new eateries to try. How to best that? By throwing in a jaw-dropping view. Here are just a few of our favourite places to suit all pockets, from simple to plush, cheap to costly.

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EATING OUT

Indus Few are the visitors who haven’t made their way up the Sanggingan road to Indus. Part of Food (and Writers & Readers) Festival founder Janet DeNeefe’s culinary empire, this Ubud institution is famous for its panoramic vista and fabulous Indonesian fusion menu. The is the best place to enjoy sunset cocktails (with complimentary tapas between 5pm and 7pm), basking in the magnificent views across the valley towards the Tjampuhan ridge – on a clear day the sacred Gunung Agung soars above a sea of palms in the distance. As night falls, diners enjoy a canopy of stars sparkling overhead. Full Moon is equally magnificent, rising above the horizon to illuminate the valley beyond the terrace where couples can enjoy a romantic Full Moon Lover’s three-course menu (for IDR550,000). Getting there is easy, as there’s a free shuttle from Casa Luna, as well as a free pick-up service in Ubud.

The Elephant Also overlooking the Tjampuhan Ridge a little further south is The Elephant – “100% vegetarian and 104% awesome”, as Jono, the charismatic owner, says. Delightful both daytime and evening, The Elephant offers fabulous views with its ‘earth friendly’ menu of colourful salads and healthy mains – including a killer Pad Thai, tofu Larb, and must-have-more Sweet Potato Fritters. Their weekend brunch is a more civilized start to the day than trekking along the Tjampuhan Ridge in the morning heat; as you tuck into a plate Eggs Florentine, you can wave smugly to the walkers far across the valley! Stay for lunch and then settle into the early evening with a few of their imaginative cocktails – premium imported alcohol

ingeniously combined with exotic local ingredients; their chilli salak (snakefruit) martini packs quite a punch, and spike’s jungle fever is served selfie-ready in a hollowed out pineapple.

Moksa For a view with a difference, walk through the rice fields of Penestanan to off-the-beatentrack newcomer, Moksa.

Co-creator Made Janur Yasa, an ardent environment and sustainability supporter, sees this as a “place of awakening”.

The inspiring “made with love and heart” menu is sure to arouse all the senses.

Dishes like Tropical Jackfruit Tacos, Eggplant Rendang and Pumpkin Cheese Ravioli are sensational! Tuck in while taking in the view of their organic permaculture gardens, from where many of the seasonal ingredients in your chosen dishes will have been harvested moments before.

Go for brunch on a Saturday and walk away with fresh fruit and vegetables and artisanal goods from their weekly Farmer’s Market. Or book a fascinating private cooking class with creative maestro and co-creator Chef Made Runatha – the world’s first Indonesian certified Plant-Based Cuisine Chef, and a passionate advocate for supremely healthy raw vegan ‘living foods’ cuisine.

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Karsa Kafe

The Sayan House

If you’re starting the day healthily doing the popular Tjampuhan Ridge walk, why not reward yourself with a reviving coconut water or fresh fruit smoothie at Karsa Kafe. You’ll find it 2km along the path in the charming village of Bangkiang Sidem. (Those disinclined to such effort can arrange for Karsa to pick you up in one of their buggies.) Sit upstairs in the open-sided alang-alang thatched pavilion and enjoy the fabulous rice terrace views and fresh breeze, or sprawl on cushions in a private bale suspended over the lotus ponds. Expect simple food and, at times, slow service – but you can always de-stress afterwards with a Shiatsu massage or Reiki session at the wellreviewed Karsa Spa behind the cafe.

For a mind-blowing views and a memorable meal, head to The Sayan House (just beyond Four Seasons Hotel) – it’s a fine place to enjoy a sociable lunch or sumptuous dinner while marveling at the breathtaking vista westwards across the sacred Ayung River gorge towards Gunung Batukaru and the string of volcanoes on the horizon. The food concept is intriguing – a fusion of Japanese and South American featuring such dishes as Wagyu Beef with Fresh Wasabi, Sauteed Foie Gras Nigiri, and a Teppanyaki menu. Its history is just as interesting; in the 1930s the composer and musicologist Colin McPhee and his anthropologist wife Jane Belo lived in the same spot; pick up a copy of his book A House in Bali for a glimpse of his fascinating time here.

Kampung Café If you’re visiting Bali’s famous rice terraces of Tegallalang, take a break at Kampung Café. You’ll find reasonably priced food served in laid back style within beautifully landscaped gardens. On the menu is a good selection of authentic Balinese dishes as well as western fixes including salads, burgers and pastas. Best of all, this multi-level café has the most spectacular views of rice terraces across the Sapat River valley; you may well feel on top of the world here!

Swept Away at the Samaya If your heart’s desire is a romantic dinner with the most ravishing view, Swept Away at the Samaya – another Sayan favourite – offers a starry-eyed experience that will surely create lasting memories.

Your table will be set paces from the sacred Ayung River sparkling with a hundred candles flickering on petal-strewn boulders along the river’s edge.

Serenaded by the sound of flowing water, you’ll savour a sumptuous six-course tasting menu with matching wines, served by your own waiter devoted to meeting your every whim. Best of all, this extraordinary setting is yours alone; only one couple may enjoy this enchanting experience every night. It doesn’t get more romantic than that!

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Ayung Resort Sebali Restaurant

Nacho Mama

Putri Bali Spa

Kopi Kat

Palm

Bintang Super Market

Wayan Karja

Terracota

Dalem Temple

Folk, Nomas

Bali Healing Museum Puri Lukisan Griya

Warung Merta Sari

Copper Kitchen & Bar

Sri Ratih & Spa La Pacha Mama

Bridges Divine

Skin Spa

Villa Beji

Nomad Nirmala

Nani Spa

We’are

Kebun

Bambooku Rainbow Spirit Warung Sopa

Milano Spa Down To Earth Cendana

SenS

Sang Spa

Highway Neka BPD Wr Siam Skin Biah Biah Bolero Fresh Soma Bali Star Coffee Yin Studio Perak EWA

Kopi Coffee Sensatia

Ubud Sari Health Resort

Red Lotus

White Box

Gunung Merta Bungalow

Kailasha Restaurant

Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Pilar Batu

Garden Sopa Sisi

Taman Beji Spa

The Sunti

Kafe Topi

Kafe Arma

Sari Api Greenfield Buddha Bowl Goddess Jaens Spa Panorama Pizza Bagus

The Pond

Tropical View

Studio Perak

ISLAND OF BALI

Villa Beji Indah

Putri Ubud Spa

de’ waRung Sang Spa

Kunci

Biah-Biah+

Studio Perak

BSF

Arma Museum Arma Rsort

UBUD

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

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Tamblingan - Bedugul’s Hidden Gem by ayu sekar • images jill alexander, putu santosa

W

ay up in Bali’s central mountains, near Bedugul, are three lakes, lost in the calderas of ancient volcanoes.

The smallest one, Tamblingan is a gem, a once holy place of pilgrimage. Today it is a still a place of pilgrimage, but except for the odd Holy day festival, it is the favoured destination for groups of trekkers and most importantly, for photographers, who come to enjoy the mystical, almost surreal beauty of a breaking dawn.

Prayer journey to the summit of the tempel “Kentel Gumi” Tamblingan lake.

MYSTICAL

Several temples dot the lakes shores which are accessible by ancient wooden dugout canoes, or if you feel up to it, by walking a couple of kilometres. The cool clean air invites walking and it is no hardship. The southern end of the lake is dominated by the Pura Gubug (temple) home to an annual ceremony of great proportions. For the rest of the time, it stands like a silent senitel guarding over this watery home of the spirits of the lake.

Tamblingan’s busiest time is pre dawn as photographers, wedding parties and other groups stand by waiting.

First light brings the most mystical effects as the lake’s surface dissolves into a sea of mist.

While ceremonial days, and holy pilgrimages undoubtably happen, it is Tamblingan’s heralding of the dawn that makes it such a special and sought after place.

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TIPS

pura protocol

Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously.

Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

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LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Antur

Lovina

Gobleg

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Tambling Mund

BA

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

ST

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

R

Airanakan

Pe

a B e a ch

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

Temple

A

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang Labuhan lalang

Lake

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk Perancak

Munduk Yehkuning

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

Sanda Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Belimbing

Ampadan

Balia

Balian Beach

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

IN

D

O

N

Tib

E

Tanah

S

IA

C

N

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C

EA

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INT

Padang Sulub

Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA Banyuning

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Coral View Villas Euro Dive Bali

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

k

eg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

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Sulahan Singarata

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10

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50 km

Going Wild in The East by ayu sekar • images jill alexander

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DISCOVERY

A

long the east coast are a series of beaches that are still exude an authentic air. Cows graze in green pastures, and the surf crashes onto the shimmering black sparkling sand.

In the distance, the holy mountain, Gunung Agung gazes down beneignly lost in a halo of clouds.

These beaches have a different energy to the wilder beaches of Kuta or Canggu. They have a magic as their secrets remain untapped by all but a few lone fishermen or groups of horseriders from a nearby stables.

In the dead of night, female turtles laden with eggs clamber ashore to dig a hole, to release their precious cargo. In sixty days tiny baby turtles will emerge from the hot black sand and begin their struggle down to the beach and the sea beyond, rendering their location on their inbuilt gps system, so that years later, they will come back to the same beach to lay their own eggs – if they survive.

To help their chances, a local fisherman has created a sanctuary where they collect the eggs and keep

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them safe from predators until they hatch. So the fishermen who would take the eggs to sell can now bring them to the hatchery where they can survive.

The long unsullied stretch of beach is broken by river mouths as the rivers reach their final destination of the welcoming sea. Most of these rivers are easily forded and you can cross to the next beautiful wild stretch of beach.

Further along are several temples and often a small party of Balinese can be seen making a private and intimate ceremony on the beach.

It is all a little like Bali as it used to be and still a well kept secret known only to a few surfers, who discover it in their endless quest for the perfect wave.

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EXPLORING THE LESSER SUNDA ISLANDS & KOMODO WITH SEATREK SAILING ADVENTURES by rachel love • images seatrek

W

ho needs Jurassic Park when here in Indonesia we have Komodo?

Due to its fearsome residents, this 390-square-kilometre island was once a place of banishment for transgressors of the law.

Nowadays, these monstrous reptiles have their own national park, and the much-visited Komodo Island is a place where dragons pose for tourists’ photos on a daily basis.

ADVENTURE There’s only one way to get to Komodo and that’s by boat, and there’s plenty of options ranging from jam-packed backpacker boats to crowded cruise liners, as well as private fishing-boat charters offering overnight trips from Labuan Bajo in Flores. However, with over 1000 species of marine life in the waters of the national park, there is so much more to this wildlife reserve than just dragons, so our choice was to escape from the crowds and take a 7-day trip from Bali to Flores, in comfort, with SeaTrek Sailing Adventures.

After all, it’s not just about the destination, but the journey itself.

SeaTrek offers a vast array of 7 to 12-day cruises through the eastern Indonesian archipelago on two traditional pinisi schooners, the 12-cabin Ombak Putih and the 6-cabin Katharina, where guests enjoy excellent comforts including private ensuite cabins, superb cuisine, and attentive service from the crew. Each cruise is led by a multilingual tour guide, who take guests beyond the tourist façade to experience an abundance of culture, history, nature and wildlife, combined with trekking, snorkelling, kayaking, stand-up paddling, swimming and pure relaxation. The schedule of cruises also includes a wide variety of expert-led voyages such as yoga cruises, birds of paradise expeditions, the annual Ubud Writers & Readers Festival cruise, and culinary adventures with Ubud’s Janet DeNeefe.

Departing from Amed on the splendid Ombak Putih, we connected with our fellow passengers as we crossed the Lombok Strait, leaving familiarity behind for the tranquility of the Lesser Sunda Islands. Snorkelling is a daily activity on the SeaTrek cruises because visiting Indonesia without donning fins, mask and snorkel is the equivalent of being given a beautifully packaged birthday present but never breaking through the wrapper to

uncover the magic beneath the surface. When we reached Moyo Island off North Sumbawa, we snorkelled over a coral atoll. Extraordinarily beautiful, with sunlight filtering through the clear water, and clouds of brightly coloured fish swimming in synchronised manoeuvres similar to a murmuration of starlings, it was a secret underwater paradise and I was thrilled to see a trio of black tip reef sharks. We later landed at the tiny seaside village of Labuhan Aji, and followed the river upstream to Diwu Mbai waterfall, which cascades into a deep swimming hole shaded by ancient jungle trees. A rope dangles off one of the trees and, egged on by the young village show-offs, we took it in turns to swing like Tarzan over the waterfall before dropping into the pool below.

Another spectacular stop was at the ancient volcanic island of Satonda.

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This entire, small, circular island– just two kilometres in diameter – is the top of an emerging volcano, rising 1000 metres from ocean floor with just 300 metres exposed above sea level. In the centre, occupying the crater of the old volcano, is a mysterious salt-water lake that takes up about half of the island’s surface. The lake is believed to be magical, and local people have long journeyed to Satonda to make a wish by tying a small piece of coral to one of the ‘wishing trees’ at the edge of the lake. Not to miss an opportunity to attract good fortune and happiness, we likewise cast our wishes into the magical lake.

At the shipbuilding village of Sangeang Wera, a Buginese settlement, which rests in the shadow of the 1800-metre-high volcanic island of Pulau Sangeang, northeast Sumbawa, men build wooden ships alongside the scruffy shores, Here, we wandered through the village and watched the master boatbuilders at work; amazingly they are still built the traditional way without the need for architectural drawings.

On day five, we woke up alongside Komodo Island against the backdrop of a jagged Jurassic landscape, and went ashore to meet the star attraction. The ranger, armed with a forked stick, led us inland; a hot and

dry monsoon forest surrounded by open savannah grasslands. Timor deer and wild boar darted nervously through the prickly palms; prey to the dragons that have no enemies apart from their own kind. Heading up Sulphurea Hill, accompanied by birdsong and chirruping cicadas, we observed rare orchids, lontar palms, screeching sulphurcrested cockatoos, a water buffalo at a drinking hole, a flying lizard, and a pair of megapodes. Nevertheless, to see dragons was our objective and it wasn’t long before we found one under a thorn tree, guarding her nest from marauders – which are usually other dragons. A massive scale-covered monitor with spiked claws, an armour-clad body, a snake-like head, and fierce jaws from which flicked a long, yellow, forked tongue.

Two metres in length, her menacing beady eyes regarded us as she stretched her neck, replenishing the folds in her thick loose skin.

We saw a second one a few minutes later; Indonesia’s living dinosaurs and the most dangerous predatory lizards in existence. We had no desire to get too close, but it was a true privilege to see them in the wild.

Another Komodo highlight was the opportunity to swim with giant manta rays at Manta Point. Mantas are exceptionally graceful swimmers, appearing to fly through the water as they flap their large wings.

Drifting on the current with our masks and snorkels, just two metres above one of these gentle creatures was an experience that will remain with us forever.

At the end of that wonderful day, we were once again accompanied by wildlife as we cruised east towards Rinca – our next destination – to see four playful dolphins cavorting alongside the Ombak Putih’s prow, bobbing and weaving, like spirit guides in the bow wave. What an amazing adventure! www.seatrekbali.com UbudLife 77

nEXT ISSUE image windia pasimpangan

Robot Man of Tenganan Eco Resorts around Bali The Art of Klungkung’s Kamasan Exploring Arma we take a walk through Bali’s most beguiling Art Museum Bungaya Beauties - in a remote village of Karangasem Traditional “Wayang Kamasan Painting” from Klungkung Regency

RESTAURANTS

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Ayung Resort Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Gunung Merta Bungalow Jl. Andong, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975463 Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168 www.villabejiindah.com

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 www.copperubud.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com de Warung Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 971465 www.dewarung.com Folk Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056 Kailasha Restaurant Sebatu, Ubud Phone: 0361 902222 www.kailasharestaurant.com

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 Kafe Topi Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 NOMAD Jl. Raya Ubud 35, Ubud Phone: 0361 977169 www.nomad-bali.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 Warung Alami Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Phone: 081 23913754 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81239655905

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com Cafe Havana Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972973 www.cafehavanabali.com UbudLife 79

SPAS Aura Theraphy Spa Ubud Aura Retreat Center Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 27997658 www.balihealingspa.com Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Nani Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Hp: 082 3404 15848 Sang Spa 1 Reborn Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973236 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa 2 Jl. Raya Jembawan 13B, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277222 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa 3 Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277333 www.sangspaubud.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Gootama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

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SHOPS Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

GALLERIES

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

EWA Oceanic Art Gallery Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 8123 683 5261 www.ewaoceanicgallery.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 www.sisibag.com SISI + NANAN Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Hp: 085 1007 65896 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hp: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com

SPORT/RECREATION Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.com

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com

Joe’s Gone Diving Jl. Bypass Ngurah Rai 44a, Sanur Phone: 0361 270633 www.joesgonediving.com

Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

USEFUL NUMBERS

EAST BALI SECTION

Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com

Ambulance Airport Authority

118 751011

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office Search and Rescue

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Puri Wirata Dive Resort and Spa Jl. Raya Bunutan, Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23523 www.puriwirata.com

NORTH BALI SECTION The Hamsa Resort Jl. Air Terjun Sing-Sing, Desa Cempaga, Lovina, Singaraja Phone: +62 813 3719 4975 Pemuteran Coastal Village www.pemuterancoastalvillage.com

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502

Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765 www.balitamansari.com

PEMUTERAN

C O A S T A L

V I L L A G E

Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605

WWW.PEMUTERANCOASTALVILLAGE.COM

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LAST WORD

My colour is white Mark Ulyseas

The flag I now carry is white.

No anthem.

No religious trinkets or lucky charms.

No colours denoting caste, creed or nationality.

A surrender to love, compassion and harmony.

A surrender to all the beauty that surrounds me.

There is too much hate. The profits from doom are rising and those collecting these profits are people who thrive on selling violence. It is now akin to porn that degenerates the soul by warping the senses and transforming one into a senseless Being. Many have become addicts to watching violent news, purveyors of others’ misfortunes. The media plays along for it needs the revenue.

The world is spiralling into another third world war.

Or so say the peddlers of news. But this is not true.

Humanity has been at war with itself since earth began hosting this species. The paradox is that this violent species has created so much beauty. Perhaps it is this that holds Mother Nature’s hands from kicking us out of her home, unceremoniously.

Let us look around and appreciate the magnificence that humanity has created in word and form and dwell upon this. Contemplate the fabulous contributions by artists of all hues. And the more we do this the more focussed we will become. Hopefully this will morph into an enchanting obsession thereby drawing us away from the ugliness of hate in its many avatars.

Nelson Mandela, despite years of incarceration, returned to public life to lead South Africa onto the path of reconciliation. He was a man who broke out of the world of violence and hate, to become a leader that guided a nation haemorrhaging from hate to

acknowledge, accept and to move on from its violent past through the process of inclusiveness. Perhaps the following words of Mandela will resonate with those that seek peace in a world fragmented by hate: “No one is born hating another person because of the colour of his skin, or his background, or his religion. People must learn to hate, and if they can learn to hate, they can be taught to love, for love comes more naturally to the human heart than its opposite.”

So choose white. A white flag and surrender to all things bright and beautiful.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

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