Ubud Life 29th Edition

UbudLife NO. 29 • DECEMBER - FEBRUARY 2017

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

BUT FIRST, BRUNCH

free

BALI’S BEST ECO LODGES THAT’S THE SPIRIT PINTOR SIRAIT BUNGAYA

cafĂŠ des artistes u b u d

jalan bisma 9x ubud 80571 - bali i n d o n e s i a P: ( 0 3 6 1 ) 9 7 2 7 0 6 e: reserve@cafedesartistesbali.com www.cafedesartistesbali.com @cafedesar tistesbali Cafe des Artistes Bali

INDONESIAN & INTERNATIONAL CLASSICS

Best Value Tenderloin Steaks in Town Delightful Crispy Salads & Pasta Scrumptious Belgian Dishes Extensive Choice of Wines Belgian Beers

EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu Welcome to our new edition of Ubud Life. As usual our little magazine packed full with big stories, which we hope you will enjoy.

Now we are heading towards the end of the Gregorian Calendar year.

Not only the Balinese are gearing up with lots of really impressive ceremonies but the Bules (westerners) are just over Thanksgiving and making myriad plans for the biggest festival of the year. Whether Christian or another derivative religion, Christmas affects everyone.

Like it or hate it, we can’t ignore it. I used to come to Bali to escape it, but now the hotels, restaurants and friends and families all celebrate it.

This issue we bring you some nice stories about the iconic Kamasan Art, that most visitors know best if they visit the Hall Of Justice in Klungkung. But that is just the tip of the iceberg and the villages to the east of Klungkung are still producing this Painting style, whether on canvas, on painted eggs, calendars and decorative items.

We also visit a sacred ceremony in the remote village of Bungaya in East Bali. This is a ceremony that has not been held for 18 years, so the people involved range from very young to quite mature. The Balinese culture just keeps holding in. From my house in Ubud, I am often awoken by sounds of cymbals and drums as cars and trucks cross the nearby bridge on their way to yet another important calendar date. It gives a sense of place and a little of the sense of mystery that living in Bali provides.

SO, we hope you enjoy and may I say Merry Xmas Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Ayu Sekar

This beautiful girl is part of the big Kongsel ceremony of the remote desa of Bungaya in Karangasem.

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors jenny b ayu sekar meliana salim stephanie mee richard horstman publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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contents 20

BUT FIRST, BRUNCH

66

BUNGAYA - BEAUTY OF A TRADITIONAL LIFE

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PINTOR SIRAIT

THAT’S THE SPIRIT

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ECO LODGES

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GUIDING THE GUILELESS IN KINTAMANI

happenings around ubud Well the Writer’s festival is over and done for another year, the Bali Spirit Festival is not happening yet so what is over the Xmas period?

Leftover segments are used for touchable things, like handles and railings, where they often stay true to the natural form of bamboo. Sometimes it seems the less it is changed, the better. Irregular pieces or roots are saved to use as special features in the interiors. As each fresh batch of bamboo arrives from the forest, they seek out and save the most intriguing outliers.

The Yoga of Bamboo - Learn with IBUKU at Bamboo U IBUKU is holding a new bamboo design and building workshop in February 2017 from 17th to 28th at Kul Kul Farm <https://t.e2ma.net/ click/sggml/somkqf/od3aoe> . Join them with Early bird registration <https://t.e2ma. net/click/sggml/somkqf/ ky4aoe> is already open and fills up fast.

Their projects include the fabulous Yoga Pavilion at the Four Seasons in Sayan where “the key was to create a durable structure 12 UbudLife

that would stand strong for decades. Strength, flexibility and vulnerability are qualities that yogis, bamboo, and our architects have in common.

The roof was designed as a big leaf, keeping the structure dry and shaded. Then aligned to the West, to allow the last few rays of sunlight to shine through”. “Bamboo is yoga in architecture. As a material, it has a flexibility that mirrors the practice of yoga, and a beauty and grace of form that people seek in yoga.” – Eka Wiradana IBUKU Architect.

The Workshop will engage with engineers and scientists about the potential and constraints of bamboo, Workshops on largescale prototyping, Critical theoretical knowledge about bamboo » Design + making skills » Understanding the design process from conception to construction » Engineering principles » Hands-on experience and is open to ages 18+ to those working or studying in the fields of design, architecture, engineering, construction, carpentry, or design.

No specific software skills needed.

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Upping the Ante at Cocoon With Christmas coming we like to look our best and now there is a new way to do it. For both young supermodels and older more normal models, Cocoon has a special new treatment. The award winning spa that is located in both Seminyak and Ubud have done it again with the launch of their new Quanta LASER 3D Skin Rejuvenator from Italy.

This laser is helps to keep your face firm and stop the formation of lines, and is now offered in Bali.

Side effects vary with skin types but in general any redness should disappear in a day or two and the new collagen should start kicking in after a week or two. Is it painful? Well not really. And the result is worth any discomfort.

Results start to show after about two weeks.

So far the treatment is only available in Legian.

Cocoon Medical Spa LEGIAN Sunset Road, Legian, Bali 80361, Jalan Monkey Forest Ubud, E: info@cocoonmedicalspa.com

The treatment, although not yet available in Ubud, is already available in their Legian salon.

Sit in one of the spaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s cute cocooned rooms, for around an hour or so, and get prepared.

But all you need to do is lie back and let the lovely doctor treat you. After some numbing cream is applied, you wait a while and then the treatment begins.

Fractional C02 is one of the most effective treatments for renewing the skin without the side effects and pain of the conventional laser treatments. It also provides quick recovery, reduced discomfort and excellent skin rejuvenation results.

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Ibu Robin Rides Again The grand new Bumi Sehat Medical Facility has opened in Late 2016. Located right next to the Nyuh Kuning Football Field, the hospital helps with natural birthing for hundreds of healthy babies a year. CNN Award Winner Ibu Robin continues her excellent work in the field together with her team of dedicated doctors and nurses. Many local people qualify for treatment by donation but everyone benefits. Outreach Programs, and a fully operational clinic in Aceh and an operation in Haiti where help is hugely needed are also in place. Emergency care is also available and various other health modalities, all aiming towards the most natural methods possible..

So what is salt therapy good for? The antibacterial and anti inflammatory properties of the salt help to build the immune system, clear the skin, adjust sleep disorders, help with skin cancers, and a range of respiratory ailments, including colds, bronchitis, emphysema and asthma. Even the hair benefits! Anyone suffering from psoriasis or eczema can do a course of treatments and get their skin looking good again. Groups and meditation groups are also accommodated.

The Salt Room - Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud | T: 0361 9080810

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So many people are helped free of charge and the centre does such wonderful work for the greater community that it is just humbling.

To keep operating, donations are always welcome and any donation can be sent to Bumi Sehat Foundation International 25 Colby Street, VT 05641, USA, Account no #1321649980.

In Indonesia donations can be sent to PT Bank Negara Indonesia BNI Branch Denpasar KLN Ubud, 30 Jl Gajah Mada, Denpasar. A/c Name Yayasan Bumi Sehat,Ds PKR Nyuh Kuning A/C no #117 765 425 Swift code BNINI DJADPS Visitors are also welcome | E: hello@bumisehatfoundation.org

While Borneo’s jungle continues to shrink,there are still pristine parts remaining, home to wild orang utans and many other species of wild animals. David Metcalf and Mark Rayner will be leading a group of keen photographers to Kalimantan in May. 2017 Highlights of this wonderful adventure will be photographing Orangutans in two different locations in Borneo, heading into villages to photograph the indigenous Dayak people, special cultural dance performance just for the group, cruise up beautiful ancient waterways and experience something of the real Borneo that few visitors get to experience.

Interested? contact Dave at davidmetcalf3@mac.com or www.davidmetcalfphotography.com internationalanimalrescue.org <http://internationalanimalrescue.org> orangutan.or.id <http://orangutan.or.id>

NB: anyone wanting to donate to causes to save the orang utan can simply write to David at the above address.

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“Eat Drink and Yadnya” I nspired by the local Balinese culture, Puri Sebali Resort is now celebrating the full moon or Bulan Purnama in our own special way with a charity dinner and Balinese dance performance.

To celebrate this very auspicious day of the full moon, a day when you will see offerings at every house and at many temple ceremonies, the resort is putting on a special show. Our chefs have created a special menu – a fusion of Balinese and Indonesian specialties guaranteed to delight the palate.

We have created the “Eat Drink and Yadnya” concept and Yadnya literally means sacrifice, devotion, worship and offering.

We donate ten percent of the proceeds to one of Bali’s many charities.

Enjoy the food while gazing out at the moonlit rice terraces and feeling the magic. Our talented Balinese dancers will charm you with their splendid dress and stylized moves of Balinese traditional dance.

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So while you are enjoying your evening, you will also be contributing to one of the local charities we support, whether a local orphanage, a nursing home, and maybe a different social institution.

SO do come, enjoy, and feel good about helping others all at the same time.

Puri Sebali Resort Jalan Raya Sebali, Banjar Sebali, Desa Keliki, Ubud - Bali 80571 Tel: +62 361 479 2644 E: info@purisebaliresort.com W: www.purisebaliresort.com

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But First, Brunch by by meliana salim • image uma cucina, folk coffee bar

B

runch–an indulgent and sociable meal inextricably tied to last night’s debauchery–is a dirty, dirty word in Ubud. The once quaint hometown of Bali’s artists and craftsmen has transformed into a holistic healing hotspot inundated with a parade of cold-press-juicing, kale-munching dietary tribes and sun-saluting limbersexuals seeking spirituality with their spirulina and clarity with their chia.

Plant-based restaurants and clean-eating cafés are sprouting up faster than the mould on my walls. One can’t swing an eco-friendly cloth bag without knocking over five raw food chefs or yoga teachers. It’s easier to find a colon whisperer (I kid you not) than a cool brunch spot in this town.

Fortunately, a new wave of restaurants in Ubud are stirring things up and reviving the art of brunch and the joy of daytime drinking with hangover dishes that are earth conscious and body friendly.

Let’s clink our glasses to my top picks for Ubud’s best brunches!

glow at COMO Shambhala Estate Bali “My number one brunch place is glow for the fresh food and the relaxing atmosphere.” –Eva Natasa, Industrial Designer A long-running smash hit among late risers, glow at the award-winning COMO Shambhala Estate Bali offers the best bottomless Sunday brunch deal. The healthy à la carte Mediterranean-inspired menu is curated to satisfy the fussiest retreat queens and health honchos, boasting homegrown organic ingredients, freshly caught seafood and the finest imported meats.

Nurse your hangover with an invigorating chilled soup of tamarind and young coconut, followed by “lean and clean green”, a detoxifying green juice that delivers nutritious goodness straight into your system. Start with the avocado and fresh soya bean dip with seaweed salsa and chia seed crisps. The spelt-flour pide is a scrumptious Noah’s Ark of roasted pumpkin, spinach and caramelized onions sprinkled with goat’s feta and pistachio crumbs. The less culinary restricted gastronomes will not be disappointed with the Australian Wagyu beef slider topped with Gruyère cheese, or the harissa-spiced succulent tiger prawns with borlotti beans.

BREAKFAST Check out the action in the open-kitchen or sit back and watch the local village girlsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; practise the traditional Balinese dance accompanied by a gamelan orchestra. This is guilt-free brunch at its best.

glow COMO Shambhala Estate Bali Banjar Begawan, Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Gianyar, Bali T: (+62) 361 978 888 www.comohotels.com/ comoshambhalaestate/ dining/glow

Copper Kitchen & Bar Rise and shine! The early bird catches the fabulous breakfast at Bisma Eight’s Copper Kitchen & Bar, a rooftop restaurant offering Asian-inspired comfort foods with a contemporary touch. Melbourne-born Chef Duncan McCance, affectionately dubbed “The Beard” for sporting some sexy scruff, loves to get down and dirty and grow his own vegetables in the nearby organic gardens. The cuisine of Copper highlights this bountiful blessing of seasonal harvest and locally sourced ingredients with great finesse, fusing indigenous Asian flavours with modern cooking techniques in a way that is subtle, complex and balanced.

The breakfast menu is decadently brunch-inspired with waistline-friendly options: Classic rösti with orange and miso cured salmon, blanched spinach and fried eggs sprinkled with black sesame; honey-drizzled waffle with yuzu parfait, poached apple, matcha-infused rye, date and rosella jam; and sago, coconut and chia pudding tossed with fresh mango and dragon fruit and topped with toasted coconut. Everything is served with housemade sourdough or pastries and your choice of coffee, tea or freshly squeezed juices.

Whether you choose to dine alfresco in the sunbathed patio with white curtains billowing in the balmy breeze or savour your brunch in the airy indoor seating with rice field views, a morning at Copper is nothing short of glorious.

Copper Kitchen & Bar Jalan Bisma, Ubud, Bali T: (+62) 361 479 2888 Email: info@bisma-eight.com www.copperubud.com 22 UbudLife

Uma Cucina at Uma

by COMO, Ubud “I love the variety of delicious freshly made Italian specialties, and since it’s just across the street from Room4Dessert, I can sneak back into service quickly.

My daughter loves the vegetarian options.” –Will Goldfarb, Chef-owner of Room4Dessert Ubud Leave it to the Italians to bring back the tradition of spending Sundays with family and friends over a delectable meal. Uma Cucina is a chic Italian restaurant at Uma by COMO, Ubud that epitomizes the Italian way of celebrating life’s simple pleasures: good food, beautiful art and great company.

Uma Cucina’s all-you-can-eat Italian Sunday brunch with punch has won the hearts and stomachs of many with its wood-fired brick oven pizzas and breads, house-made pastas, cheeses and sausages, classic Italian gelatos and granitas and free-flowing beverage packages. Delightful, easily shareable antipasti include yellow fin tuna crudo, bruschetta, jumbo octopus and calamari fritti. Tuck into memorable mains like the baby chicken and the signature pizzettas—my favourite is the prosciutto di parma with organic egg, caramelized onions, radicchio and black pepper.

The restaurant–designed by architect Cheong Yew Kuan–oozes conviviality and stimulates lively interractions. A large communal dining table at the heart of the restaurant, an outdoor terrace seating and a laid-back lounge bar with a robust wine list and very crafty cocktails encourage guests to kick back, relax and enjoy la dolce vita.

Uma Cucina Uma by COMO, Ubud Jalan Raya Sanggingan, Ubud, Bali T: (+62) 361 972 448 Email: uma.ubud@comohotels.com www.umacucina.com

Folk Coffee Bar From the passionate food creatives behind Copper Kitchen & Bar comes Folk Coffee Bar, the newest kid on the touristy block of Jalan Monkey Forest. Led by Copper’s chef Duncan McCance, Folk charms with a down-to-earth modern cuisine built upon Duncan’s multi-cultural Australian heritage, effortlessly marrying diverse global flavours with contemporary cooking methods.

Duncan has a natural flair for plating up simple soulful food that lets his homegrown ingredients shine. The rice, chia and coconut pudding with sliced banana, strawberry, tangerine, preserved rosella and fresh mint pays homage to Bali’s seasonal produce. The poached eggs on fresh-baked sourdough toast with tomatoes, boconccini and bacon screams brunch, while the soft shell crab burger with kimchi slaw, wasabi mayo and fresh coriander is a tasty little catch guaranteed to please any crowd. The standout dish for me is the beetroot-cured salmon with savoury croquette, black sesame fried egg and crunchy lettuce, elevated by a surprise kick from the dried chilli vinaigrette.

The inspiration behind Folk’s unique design philosophy is the curious masyarakat (community) of Gianyar province and the challenges they face as they straddle the traditions of yesterday and the reforms of today. The longing for simplicity, harmony and a reconnection with nature are reflected in the rugged, patchy local polpolan–painstakingly handmade earth walls–adorned with fitted terracotta light pots and replicas of primitive scratchings.

Folk is a cosy bustling brunch joint that radiates warmth, evokes creativity and delivers heart-warming food. Sit by the people-watching window, sip the special blend from Tetap Happy Coffee Roasters and enjoy your lazy weekday brunch.

That’s all, folks!

Folk Coffee Bar Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud, Bali T: (+62) 361 908 0888 Email: folkubud@gmail.com www.folkubud.com UbudLife 23

SOPHISTICATED SIPPING

by stephanie mee • images gsb

the fact the Ubud has D espite never really been known for having a wild and crazy nightlife, tippling has always been a widely accepted past time round these parts, and there are plenty of places to imbibe in all sorts of boozy creations. From scenic sundowner spots to hip watering holes offering up modern mixology, these are our favourite cocktail bars in Ubud.

Cinta Grill You’re smack dab in the middle of all the action at Cinta Grill, an open-plan garden restaurant and bar on busy Monkey Forest Road. The atmosphere here is lively and fun with great music going on, five different types of mojitos on offer like watermelon, ginger and kaffir lime, and energetic servers who will make sure your drink never runneth dry. The food is a great mix of Asian and Western cuisine like burgers, grilled seafood and spicy curries, and they have not one but two happy hours going on from 4pm to 7pm and again from 10pm to midnight when you can buy one of their famous mojitos and another one for free.

Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud www.cintagrill.com

CP Lounge CP Lounge is Ubud’s first and only true nightclub, and the late-night hotspot for revellers looking for good eats, beats and bevvies. Outside they have a breezy patio where you can chill out on comfy sofas with martinis in hand or get up and groove to local bands playing everything from 70s rock to reggae. Move on over to the back and you’ll find pool tables and plenty of space to sprawl out with groups of friends, and inside they have a lounge and bar where resident DJ Kenji gets the dance floor jumping until the early hours of the morning. Be sure to try one of their signature mojitos like the Tangerine, Dragon Fruit or Basil, and if you really want to get your party on, go for their famous Rainbow Shots where you pay for one but get 12 gorgeous shots in all the colours of the rainbow poured from one shaker in perfect order.

Jalan Monkey Forest, Ubud www.cp-lounge.com

COCKTAILS

Divine at Bridges Bali

No Mas

Just like the name suggests, imbibing at Divine is an elegant affair. This classy wine and cocktail bar is located on the lower level of Bridges Bali and overlooks a jungle-clad gorge with the Wos River flowing below. Bridges is known for having one of the best wine lists in Ubud, if not all of Bali, so you’ll definitely want to try a glass or two here, especially on Fridays between 4pm and 8pm when wine expert Antoine chooses five wines by theme like grape varietal or region and offers them at special prices along with complimentary canapés. The cocktail list is also enticing with a mix of classics and modern concoctions like the Mangosteen Martini and Cucumber-Mint Gimlet. If you’re feeling peckish, the bar menu features decadent bites like European charcuterie and cheeses, caviar, ceviche and foie gras.

This self-proclaimed ‘island sinkhole’ is a funked-up addition to the Ubud drinking scene brought to us by the same people behind Copper Kitchen & Bar and Folk Ubud.

Look for the neon arrow sign on Monkey Forest Road reading ‘Treasure this Way’ and follow the stairs to the upper level where you’ll find softly lit chandeliers illuminating eclectic decor like dark floral wallpaper, leather-backed sofas and plenty of ironwork.

Sidle up to the bar and strike up a convo with the chatty bartenders who can steer you towards tipples to match your tastes. Opt for a classic like the Old Fashioned with bourbon, bitters and orange, or a No Mas signature like the Crown Chakra with vodka, ginger liqueur, mint, cranberry juice and ginger ale. They also do great bar bites like pork sliders and nachos.

Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud www.bridgesbali.com

Jalan Monkey Forest (above Folk Ubud), Ubud www.nomasubud.com

Rondji

Mingle

After touring around the beguiling Antonio Blanco Museum with its avant garde artworks and gorgeous gardens replete with exotic birds, head next door to Rondji for some sips and snacks. Named after Antonio Blanco’s late wife and run by his daugher-in-law Wimas Blanco, Rondji’s main draw is its huge wooden patio surrounded by lush greenery and offering views across the river valley to the stunning Gunung Lebah temple.

Try some of their Asian-inspired cocktails with ingredients like sweet lychees and fragrant basil along with some of their light bites like the Prawn Gyoza, Rice Paper Rolls, or Chinese Duck Salad.

Located on a gentle curve of Jalan Dewi Sita, two-storey Mingle is a great place to sit back and do a little people watching all while indulging in great happy hour cocktails and martinis and a good mix of Indonesian and Western dishes. Every day between 4pm and 9pm all cocktails are 2-for-1, so you can sample tried-and-true favourites like the Espresso Martini with vodka, Kahlua and Baileys, the Margarita made with tequila, Cointreau and fresh lime juice, and the Passionfruit Crush with vodka, lime and passionfruit juice. Chilling with a large group?

Ask the staff if they can whip you up a pitcher of your favourite cocktail to get the drinks and good times flowing.

Jalan Raya Tjampuhan, Ubud www.rondjirestaurantubud.com

Jalan Dewi Sita, Ubud www.minglecafe.weebly.com

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PINTOR SIRAIT by richard horsman â&#x20AC;¢ images ayu sekar

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WHO’S WHO

A

rt is a compelling force that interacts with, and enhances our conscious and subconscious minds. Shamans, masters of primitive art created with intention works rich in symbolic meaning that communicated via the language of the soul.

Knowledge of symbols, and how the subconscious ‘reads’ and responds to art are potent facets of Indonesian artist Pintor Sirait’s creative ouvre.

So much so that his gift of translating inspiration into wonderful 3 dimensional forms has distinguished him as one Indonesia’s most important contemporary sculptors.

Born in Germany in 1962 to a German mother and to a father of Batak, Sumatran origin, aged five Sirait arrived in West Java, and grew up in Bandung. He completed high school and a few years of college before moving abroad, studying psychology, and then sculpture in the United States. His curiosity for deciphering the human psyche has led him upon a quest that has positioned him securely within the international art world.

“I fell in love twice,” Sirait recalls. “First while living in the US I fell in love with the possibility of learning more about the world. I became obsessed with the library system, because in Indonesia we did not have one with such a wide range of reading material on art and culture. During my early twenties I did years of learning and absorbing. I had a fascination for Indonesian history; a hunger to know about my homeland.”

In 1984 Sirait moved to the US and between 1985-88 he studied a Bachelors degree in Liberal Arts in Nevada. He accessed books about Indonesia containing knowledge that could only be found abroad. Following this he pursued psychology. “I was in the midst of doing my graduate studies on clinical psychology. I was a very serious student so my professor suggested I take some art classes

to enhance my creative thinking abilities. I immediately became emotionally, physically, and spiritually captivated with the sculpture.”

Sirait abandoned his psychology studies and went straight to art school. Within a few years he was working between Indonesia, France and the US exhibiting and selling his work. His artistic channel opened up as if the universe conspired with him to create an exciting and empowering new world. “I fell in love with the possibility of making things derived from my self education.”

“I learned to meld my ideas into sculptures from a psychological/ holistic perspective.

I combine the knowledge of psychology into my art to help understand the psyche and how the emotions work. Incorporating the psychological dimensions of how we sense, think and feel; how we engage with art.”

In recent years Sirait has been more focussed on any possibility to create public art. “Public art interacts with people allowing them to both see and feel.”

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Jakarta’s new International Terminal 3 at Soekarno - Hatta Airport is entering it’s final stages of construction. Within the terminal’s exciting modern architecture is Pintor’s tour de force - the culmination of his brilliant career. A huge abstract piece of shining stainless steel that winds its way through the Airport’s three floors. This is a bold and exciting statement of Indonesian con-temporary art.

In his search to find classical Indonesian beauty, translate and present it into a public artwork to enrich the modern architecture of Terminal 3, the beauty of the Balinese traditional dance "Rejang Dewa” communicated intimately to Sirait. Utilizing Japanese calligraphy he then responded with ink on paper.

“I translated the brush strokes into three different 3 dimensional shapes which became ‘Flow’ - a stainless steel 1900 x 800 x 700 cm form that floats and sways, then cascades down over two levels of the airport terminal’s arrival hall. I wish ‘Flow’ to remind Indonesians of how fortunate we are to have so many beautiful cultural inheritances to be proud of.”

Venturing inside Sirait’s studio in South Denpasar one enters a large industrial workshop, it’s nerve center a cozy airconditioned office. His fifteen staff he brought from Bandung, trained, and that have worked with him for 20 years hover around steel modules of ‘Flow’, meticulously engaged in aligning, and welding.

The environment is noisy, dirty, almost confronting. The tropical heat is extreme.

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The environment is noisy, dirty, almost confronting. The tropical heat is extreme.

Yet all the while there is an exciting interrelationship of dynamics at play. Patience and skill combine with intuition as man and machine melt and fuse components together.

The sight of red-hot liquid metal is enthralling, sexy too! It gives a sense of creativity in the translating of industrial materials into something that relates to human feeling.

Alchemy is a vital essence of this process.

Some of the award-winning artist’s themes explore his Batak heritage, Indonesian culture and beauty, along with the paradoxes of the modern world, such as violence and obsession. “I grew up in Indonesia learning to work within its cultural boundaries. Through art you can open things up and talk about subjects artistically, yet with sensitivity and

politeness. Art does not have to offend; sometimes it needs to though. Yet only in the right context - through the most creative, non-threatening and non-judgemental art. I learned this from psychology.”

Dividing his time between his workshop and his home beside the ocean at Canggu, each morning Sirait rises early walks the beach, and then returns home for his ritual meditation.

His second storey home studio allows him to gaze tranquilly westward, out across the sea.

His words of advice to aspiring young artists: “Its good to look around you, yet what’s most important is to look inside.”

Sirait’s works can be found in the US, Europe, China, Southeast Asia,

Australia and throughout Indonesia, while he has extensively exhibited for the past twenty years. A ‘product’ of three continents, he believes it is important to live within and outside of a culture in order to think freely as an artist.

“What one can find within oneself is fantastic.

What may be expressed through art can be felt more by other people because it has authentic elements derived from inner experience. What I am interested in as an artist is how I may touch people’s hearts through my work.”

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ANITA’S TOP TEN LIST Anita Scheeres has been in Ubud for over 30 year and knows it well. Co-founder (with husband Ketut Yuliarsa) of Ganesha Bookshops, and Books for Bali – a far-reaching, much-needed children’s literacy programme, this Australian book lover is deeply immersed in the culture of her adopted home. Here she shares tips for making the most of your stay in Ubud.

Cocktail at Indus There’s simply no better place to be at sunset than Indus perched on the Sanggingan ridge high above the sacred Wos river. Sip Twilight Cocktails (from 5pm to 7pm) while enjoying the panoramic view across the Campuhan Ridge all the way to the sea – perhaps spotting the occasional kingfisher swooping through the valley.

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Campuhan Ridge Walk Take a stroll along the Campuhan ridge – now often referred to as Bukit Cinta or ‘Hill of Love’. This easy hike along a paved path – best appreciated in the (relative) cool of the early morning or late afternoon – will reward you with expansive vistas across verdant hills and rice-fields, with small roadside stalls along the way. The sense of tranquility and beauty here is hard to describe; so best experience it for yourself!

Visit Ubud’s art museum Get an understanding of Bali’s art scene by visiting the galleries – particularly Neka Museum, Puri Lukisan, Rudana Museum and ARMA. Each have spectacular collections by both Balinese and international artists, covering decades of artistic expression.

You’ll find that repeat visits reveal more and more about Balinese Art styles and how they developed.

Indonesian textiles and Threads of Life Bali is a centre for textile lovers, as traders bring in textiles from all the outer islands. Threads of Life is a non-profit organization assisting traditional weavers in their own villages, and showcasing their works in their gallery. You can buy exquisite pieces at a fair price and support Indonesia’s dying textile industry. experience it for yourself!

TOP TIPS Ubud Market Get up early to visit Ubud’s traditional Market on the corner of Jalan Monkey Forest Road and Jalan Raya Ubud before the tourists come.

Trucks laden with fresh fruit and vegetables arrive fresh from mountain farms with wonderful produce that you won’t see anywhere else.

There’s a pre-dawn scramble to get the best. Go downstairs, take a seat and order a Black Rice Pudding and watch the morning unfold. Always a favourite with artists, photographers and interested people. The market’s character changes at 9 as the tourist shops open.

including rare and antiquarian books collected from around the globe. There’s also an eclectic selection of second hand books, mostly modern literature and the classics – perfect holiday reading!

Il Giardino

Ganesha Bookshop

Visit Bali’s best bookstore.

Browse the crowded shelves to find a treasure trove of books on the archipelago’s language, literature, culture, history, religion, music, arts, textiles, cooking etc –

Botanica Day Spa

For a truly relaxing massage, head up to Bali Botanica Day Spa on Jalan Sanggingan, where you can spend the whole day being pampered from head to toe in delightful, spotlessly clean surroundings.

Personal favourites? The Pondicerry Foot Massage, Thermal Clay Facial, Balinese Massage and Mandi Lulur (Flower Bath). The staff knowledgeable and discreet, and can arrange transport to the spa for you.

Don’t miss the romantic garden restaurant, Il Giardino on Jalan Kajeng. Set in the secluded gardens of the late artist Han Snel they serve great pizzas and a fine Italian menu. The peaceful setting comes with a gorgeous lotus pond with pet ducks, and at night candlelight and cocktails make it the place for romance.

UbudLife 41

Embossed and hand-painted, hand-stamped and bound – each piece is remarkable, a veritable work of art. So easy to slip into your suitcase!

Sjaki-Tari-Us School shop

Kado handmade stationery There’s a true gem of a store on Jalan Dewi Sita – so small you could easily miss it. Kado creates beautiful handmade recycled papers and cards, and must-have gifts.

Make a difference by visiting the Sjaki-Tari-Us School for Bali’s differently-abled children at the side of the soccer field. Staffed by volunteers, this charitable group helps the lives of children and adolescents who were previously isolated in scattered villages, hidden away from curious eyes. The school is a centre for community

activities, experiences and excursions. Support their work by visiting their small shop at the front of the school and buying a few easy-to-pack items. (The Books for Bali project has donated to their small library – every little helps.)

ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

44 UbudLife

Spirit of Bali words and image ayu sekar

This happy farmer is wending his way home with a big bag full of grass to feed his cow. Out in the desa, we can often meet those who follow a more simple, less complicated life.Â

Simple Jewelry Tear drop necklace Now NEW Shop Jl. Hanoman Ubud, Bali - Indonesia | Kunci. 0361 971050 | nu crochet. 0361 972830 Dewi Sita street, Padang Tegal, Ubud. 0878 6623 1388 | kuncibali@gmail.com www.kuncicottonknit.com

www.bali-ebikes.com

THE BEST TRAVEL OPTION TO SEE UBUD & SURROUNDINGS.

OUT

Price: Full-day Rental IDR 70k (approx. $6) Half-day Tour IDR 350k (approx. $27) Address: Jalan Raya Nyuh Kuning No. 2 Pengosekan Kaja, Mas, Ubud - Bali | Phone: +62 813 5362 2250 Email: info@bali-ebikes.com

I

t’s hard to swing a yoga mat in Bali without coming across a resort or hotel that claims to be ‘eco’ or some variation of that theme.

While some simply use the term to cash in on the ‘green’ trend, some actually live up to their promises. This issue we look at four resorts that have truly earned their eco titles.

by stephanie mee • images ayu sekar

Saribuana Eco Lodge Five artful bungalows perch on a ridge 700 metres up the slopes of extinct volcano Mount Batukaru with sweeping rainforest views to the distant ocean. Natural ponds, waterfalls and spring-fed pools are part of Saribuana Eco Lodge, Bali’s longest running eco lodge.

Owners Norm and Linda vant Hoff started here in 1991, and soon after began creating creating a sustainable resort where visitors could engage with nature and Balinese culture. They believe that an eco lodge “is so much more than a room. it seeks to integrate with the natural, built and social environments.”

Their low-impact bungalows are built with natural materials, blending seamlessly with the natural contours of the land. Large verandas and windows allow mountain air and natural light to flow in, fresh water comes from a natural spring, and wastewater filters into permaculture gardens that provide fresh organic ingredients for the restaurant.

50 UbudLife

Community is key. The resort hires only local staff and consults with village leaders about all of their endeavours.

Thanks to collaborations between Sarinbuana Eco Lodge and the local community, the Batukaru rainforest (which is the largest remaining wet rainforest on Bali) is now a protected ‘no take’ zone where hunting, harvesting, and cutting down trees is forbidden.

GOING ECO The amiable staff here take pride in showing off their organic gardens and food forests, taking guests on treks through the rainforest and up Mount Batukaru. Be sure to inquire about their tree-planting program where you can offset your carbon footprint by purchasing seedlings from local farmers and planting them to create

Bali Eco Stay In 2010, while John and Cath Blundstone were camping with their young son in Australia, they met Norm and Linda of Sarinbuana Eco Lodge, who convinced them to visit them in Bali.

Looking for another direction in life, they became so inspired by Sarinbuanaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s impressive eco efforts that they decided to create their concept just 20 minutes down the mountain.

Eight discreet bungalows overlook working padi fields, organic gardens and a 12-metre waterfall cascading into the forest below.

Each one-of-a-kind bungalow was built using local labour and natural materials. Electricity comes mainly from the hydro system, and wastewater is recycled into the permaculture gardens.

The resort is managed by husband and wife team Agung and Mini, who also own the land. Staff come from nearby Kanciana Village. They support local artisans by purchasing locally and in addition, all profits are reinvested locally.

food and habitat for wildlife in the area. www.baliecolodge.com

Bali Eco Stay encourages guests to explore the natural surroundings and join in the colourful religious ceremonies that take place in the village. They also offer cooking classes where you can learn to make the delicious organic dishes served at the resort, as well as wood carving classes, mountain bike tours and sunrise treks up Mount Batukaru. www.baliecostay.com UbudLife 51

Bloo Lagoon

Balila Beach Resort

Bloo Lagoon Village is like no other. Designed by architects Tony Gwilliam and Marita Vidal, the resort features 25 eco-friendly, open-plan villas set atop a cliff high above the ocean in Padang Bai, as well as an open-air yoga deck, and an edge cliff with a spiral staircase winding down to a spa and a contemporary art gallery featuring rotating Indonesian artists.

Halfway between Amed and Tulamben, Balila Beach Resort this oasis of tranquility overlooks a curved black sand beach on one side and the massive cone of Mount Agung looming on the horizon. Owner Birci and her Balinese husband Made researched sustainable building method to make a truly eco resort. A series of rooms and private suites are made with ​local stone, earth bricks, and wooden beams from Neem trees, all natural materials.

Rainwater catchment tanks, solar heaters, wastewater filtration systems, and a vortex to energise the swimming pool are all interesting eco features.

The resort was designed to be a living, evolving space where guests, staff and homeowners can live in harmony. Their motto, ‘Bloo is the New Green’, refers to their efforts to respect the land ecosystem above and the ocean ecosystem below.

Other environmentally conscious efforts include LED lights throughout the resort, minimal pavement to encourage rainwater to soak directly into the earth and drain into the storage ponds, the addition of water gallons and glasses in each of the rooms to eradicate the need for plastic water bottles, and organic gardens that take up nearly a third of the land and produce fruits, vegetables and herbs for the restaurant.

Gorgeous bathrooms are decked out with colourful tiles from local artisans and organic bath products from local producer Sensatia Botanicals. The cosy restaurant serves up dishes made with ingredients from the organic permaculture garden like tomatoes, papayas and leafy greens. The sea salt comes from producers nearby, the fish from local fisherman. You won’t see a drop of palm oil here, only healthy coconut oil. It’s all good and the sunsets are to die for.

www.bloolagoon.com

www.balila.at <http://www.balila.at>

52 UbudLife

de’ waRung Modern Balinese, Indonesian, Asian, Mexican, and Western Twist

Restaurant, Bar & Grill

Address: Monkey Forest Road, Post Code 80751 | Phone: +62 361 971465 Fax: +62 361 975188 |Web:www.dewarung.com de_warung

de warung

de’warung

de’warung

dewarung

56 UbudLife

Ayung Resort Sebali Restaurant

Nacho Mama

Putri Bali Spa

Kopi Kat

Palm

Warung Alami

Bintang Super Market

Wayan Karja

Terracota

Dalem Temple

Folk, Nomas

Bali Healing Museum Puri Lukisan Griya

Warung Merta Sari

Copper Kitchen & Bar

Sri Ratih & Spa La Pacha Mama

Bridges Divine

Skin Spa

Villa Beji

Nomad Nirmala

Kayma Spa Weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;are

Kebun

Bambooku Rainbow Spirit Warung Sopa

Milano Spa Down To Earth Cendana Nani Spa

SenS

Sang Spa

HighwayTM Neka BPD Wr Siam Skin Biah Biah Fresh Soma Bali Star Coffee Yin Studio Perak EWA Bolero

Kopi Coffee Sensatia

Ubud Sari Health Resort

Red Lotus

White Box

Gunung Merta Bungalow

Kailasha Restaurant

Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Pilar Batu

Garden Sopa Bali-e Bike Sisi

Taman Beji Spa

The Sunti

Kafe Topi

Kafe Arma

Sari Api Greenfield Buddha Bowl Goddess Jaens Spa Panorama Pizza Bagus

The Pond

Tropical View

Studio Perak

ISLAND OF BALI

Villa Beji Indah

Putri Ubud Spa

deâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; waRung Sang Spa

Kunci

Biah-Biah+

Studio Perak

BSF

Arma Museum Arma Rsort

UBUD

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

UbudLife 59

KAMASAN by richard horsman â&#x20AC;˘ images david irons, richard horsman

Imagine you are a master Balinese painter, and your King has recently commissioned you to create a work. As you sit down in front of a large cloth stretched upon a wooden frame with a pencil in hand, for a moment you contemplate the composition before beginning to sketch.

The year is 1723. What would go through your mind?

TRADITION

PAINTING Possibly you hear the clash and bangs of metallic instruments of a Balinese ensemble.

You visualise the cloth in front as a giant screen, with an audience seated on the opposite side. And you imagine yourself as a dalang – a master puppeteer – manipulating puppets while bringing to life a mighty Hindu religious epic during a wayang kulit shadow theatre play.

The roots and imagery of these classical paintings are derived from one of the original story telling methods in the Balinese culture, the wayang shadow puppet theatre. This intriguing and entertaining form of theater that enthralls audiences may be traced back over 2000 years to the Indian traders who settled in Nusa Antara (Indonesia prior to being known as the Dutch East Indies), who brought with them their culture and Hindu religion.

Originally the work of artisans from the East Javanese Majapahit Empire (13-16th Century), this style of painting expanded into Bali late in the 13th century and from the 16th - 20th centuries thrived. The wayang style has close affinities with the temple reliefs of East Java produced between the 12th – 15th centuries, in which two-dimensional figures are juxtaposed onto flat backgrounds.

The highly detailed and sacred narrative Kamasan paintings (named after the village in Klungkung that became the epicentre of Balinese art from the 1700’s onwards) play an essential role within the Balinese culture, functioning as a bridge communicating between two worlds.

The Kamasan painters functioned as a medium translating the esoteric and invisible knowledge into a readable visual language, bringing greater understandings to the mysteries of life according to Balinese Hindu traditional scriptures and philosophies.

Produced on processed bark paper, cotton cloth and wood, Kamasan paintings decorated temples, pavilions, and the houses of the aristocracy, especially during temple ceremonies and festivals. Umbul umbuls, long narrow prayer flags, depicting Kamasan imagery fastened to bamboo poles and positioned both outside and within the temples fluttering in the breeze were dynamic visual spectacles.

The many narratives depicted in the paintings are from the Hindu and Buddhist sacred texts – the Ramayana, Mahabarata, Sutasoma, Tantri, also from Panji - JavaneseBalinese folktales and romances. Astrological, earthquake and birth charts are also depicted. These paintings contain high moral standards and function to express honourable human virtues to society with the intent to encourage peace and harmony. A beautiful painting communicates balance, aesthetically and metaphorically, and is equated by the Balinese as the artist achieving perfect union with the divine.

Looking at a Kamasan painting it is full with visual information to the extent that nothing stands out. Tight, generalized, often repetitive patterning of decorative motifs, and combinations of graphic patterns are distributed all across the surface leaving little or no blank areas. Ornamental elements, rocks, flowers motifs and painted borders indicate Indian and even Chinese influence from Chinese porcelain and Indian textiles.

To foreign audiences the paintings, however, present difficulties in their understanding.

Without a concept of the landscape in Balinese paintings they about an arrangement of items on a flat surface akin to the shadow puppets against the screen in shadow theatre.

Unlike Western modern art where paintings that generally have one focal point, there is no central focal point to read the Kamasan narratives. Most of the paintings have multiple stories that may be read in all areas around the composition.

The original works were a communal creation, the master artist shaped the composition, sketching in the details and outlines and apprentices added the colours. These works where never signed by an individual and considered as a collective expression of values and gratitude from the village to the divine.

Colours were created from natural materials mixed with water, iron oxide stone for brown, calcium from pig bones for white, ochre oxide clay for yellow, indigo leaves for blue, carbon soot or ink for black. Enamel paint introduce by the Chinese a few hundred years ago were used on wooden panels of pavilions and shrines, or even upon glass.

At Ubudâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Puri Lukisan Museum, 300 meters north from the market along on Jalan Raya Ubud you will find an array of Kamasan paintings, the largest collection in display in Ubud. Three kilometres further north along Jalan Raya in Sanggingan at the Neka

Museum there are more examples, while in Pengosekan at the Agung Rai Museum of Art (ARMA) there are also works on display.

Venture east to the regency of Klungkung and you can visit the Nyoman Gunarsa Museum of Classical & Modern Art were there is a large and important collection. While the the ancient law courts of Kerta Gosa offer the visitor something unique and exciting.

Here you can see pavilions decorated with detailed presentations of different legends depicting the results of blasphemous and corrupt behaviour, stories of divine retribution to the law-breakers within the Balinese society. Within one composition hell (Yamaloka) is depicted as an enormous iron cauldron with cow head handles, constantly boiling over a flame. A demon is seen stoking the fire with wood while another throws sinners into the boiling water.

Kamasan painting is not static and keeps evolving as subtle changes have occurred over time as each artist has their own style, composition and use of colour. It is common that new works regularly replace old and damaged works in temples and houses, and hence Kamasan painting is an authentic living Balinese tradition.

Mangku Muriati (b.1966), daughter of the renowned master painter Mungku Mura (1920-1999) from a young age began assisting her father colouring in the paintings.

Nowadays she is regarded as one of the leading exponents of this style. Finding her studio in the traditional family compound is easy, simply venture into the Kamasan village and stop and ask directions from the local people.

LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Antur

Lovina

Gobleg

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Tambling Mund

BA

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

ST

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

R

Airanakan

Pe

a B e a ch

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

Temple

A

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang Labuhan lalang

Lake

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk Perancak

Munduk Yehkuning

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

Sanda Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Belimbing

Ampadan

Balia

Balian Beach

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

IN

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Tanah

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Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA Banyuning

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Coral View Villas Euro Dive Bali

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

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y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

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BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

Sebatu

Penebel Perean Pitra

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Bungaya

Beauty of a Traditional Life by ayu sekar â&#x20AC;˘ images jill alexander

A

lthough Tenganan is Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best know traditional Bali Aga Village (the village of Traditional People) there are many more, lesser known villages scattered around the backwoods of Karangasem. While none hold their traditions as dear as Tenganan, they are still authentic and if you are lucky enough to witness one, you will be amazed.

CULTURE Recently the Bali Aga Village of Bungaya turned on an amazing ceremony that happens only once every twelve or fourteen years, so when news of this happening came to my ears, it was almost mandatory to attend.

Named the Usaba Dangsil Ceremony it is, amongst other things, a coming of age ceremony for the youth of the village. Boys and girls, Dahas and Tuhunas each have many rituals to follow, and secrets to be party to, which enables them to become grown ups or fully fledged members of the village community â&#x20AC;&#x201C; a kind of welcoming to adulthood.

Dressed in yellow, and swathed with flowers, the initiates entered group by group into

the inner sanctum of the temple where they received the sacraments that would change them. In Bungaya, the ceremonies are considered secret and not to be witnessed, or photographed by outsiders. Foreigners, will never enter that inner sanctum and very few Balinese from other villagers. Even without entering the inner sanctum there was plenty to see and photograph.

Thousands of people are involved in this ceremony and fourteen of the surrounding villages come to join in this very sacred set of rituals. One of the most visible signs of the ceremonies are the Dangsils â&#x20AC;&#x201C; seven huge three story wooden edifices that are said to represent Mt Meru, just as the many black thatched tiered roofs in the temples do.

These dangsil are made of fruit tree wood in the surrounding villages. Each one weighing several tonnes, is carried by teams of heaving men to Bungaya and then hauled up to standing position by hundreds of red sarong garbed men straining at the ropes - a sight to behold.

Adat, or traditional law is strongly adhered to and all measurements and perspectives are given by the village priests. One of the more quirky rules was, that on the most important day, nobody was allowed in the village unless they wore bare chests and sarongs for the men and sarongs with an upper wrap for the women. No jewellery, no handphones, no cameras â&#x20AC;&#x201C; truly a retro return to earlier times of purity.

68 UbudLife

Security was strict and rules were obeyed.

Even the typical Balinese relaxed attitude was not to be seen. Pecalang, the village security guards dressed in all their finery patrolled the village perimeters to ensure that rules were followed.

Because this is such a sacred ceremony, that lasts over many days, entry to the sacral or sacred initiations were restricted to people of the village. Secrecy ensured that the photographers had plenty of time to meditate on life and figure out how to get their best shots. It is good to know that life goes on, regardless of modern technology and globalization of the planet. May Bungaya continue well into the 21st Century and may Bali retain her magic.

TIPS

pura protocol

Tips for how to visit one of Baliâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s fabulous temples A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously.

Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

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TREKKING

Guiding the Guileless in Kintamani

by stephanie â&#x20AC;˘ images ayu sekar, putu santosa

F

or adventurous visitors to Bali, a sunrise trek up one of the volcanoes is an absolute must, and many people opt for Mount Batur because the trek is relatively easy and quick compared to the lengthy and more arduous trek up the steep slopes of Mount Agung. Yet despite its suitability for amateur trekkers, Mount Batur is still an active volcano, so safety is of the utmost importance.

This is where the Association of Mount Batur Trekking Guides comes in.

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D

espite what some people may tell you, it is not possible to climb Mount Batur (or any other volcano in Bali) without a certified local guide. Sure, back in the day intrepid trekkers could forge ahead on their own, but numerous injuries and fatalities on the mountains caused the government to make it mandatory for all trekkers to use a local guide. Today trekkers must check in with the Association of Mount Batur Trekking Guides and be assigned a local guide before beginning the ascent.

Made Sukarmi Asih is one of over 600 local guides in the association, and she also has the distinction of being the first female guide.

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She says, “Many people don’t understand why they need a guide, and we have to explain to them that it’s not just about money. We know the safest routes up the mountain and we have a good relationship with the volcanologists, who alert us when they see abnormal seismic activity. We also have first aid training, so we can help in an emergency, and we can tell people about the history and geology of the mountain.

“Another thing that many people don’t realise is that Mount Batur is one of the most sacred spots on the island for Balinese Hindus, so we have a huge responsibility to respect the spirits and the temples here. For example, if an accident happens on the mountain, it could

Ketut Kade is one of the founders of thassociation and also one of 18 leaders responsible for managing the 600-plus guides. He believes that their role is much larger than simply guiding people up the mountain. He says, “Before the association was founded, there was a lot of competition between freelance guides and problems between guides and guests. We wanted to create a better image for the area and support the community by creating jobs and income that would trickle back to the farmers and fishermen.”

The fees that guests pay to the association go partly to the government, partly to pay the guides’ monthly salaries, and partly towards social and environmental endeavours. Ketut says, “In Bali we follow the philosophy of Tri Hita Karana, which means harmony between humans and other humans, humans and nature, and humans and God. This is why we do extra activities like helping people with disabilities, cleaning rubbish off the mountain, and organising big ceremonies at least once a year to honour the mountain.”

provoke bad spirits, so we would have to have a big ceremony to cleanse the mountain.

Therefore we try to prevent any accidents from happening for both humanitarian and spiritual reasons.”

Like Made, nearly every member of the organisation comes from the Kintamani region and has been climbing the mountain since they were children, so they know the trails and vents of the volcano like the back of their hands. After rigorous training, they can apply for a guiding license and then join the ranks of guides on the mountain every morning. They must also attend monthly meetings to evaluate the previous month’s service and to discuss any current issues.

The Association of Mount Batur Trekking Guides also works closely with the Indonesian government and the local banjars in Kintamani to effect change in the area. For example, in 2012 the Batur caldera officially became part of the UNESCO Global Geopark network, which means it is now a protected area. Ketut says, “We are and always have been connected to the volcano, so nature and tradition are important to us. Tourism is also important, but we must find a way to balance that with what is good for the people, the spirits and the land.”

www.balisunrisetours.com www.baliecocycling.com/batur-trek +62 877 5342 1201 - what's app!

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That’s the Spirit! by meliana salim • images pt. adventure and spirit

I

’m no stranger to risk-taking. I skydived off an airplane from 4,000 metres. I bungee jumped. I frequently dive with sharks. I even fell in love and got married. When adventure beckons, I brace myself, gear up and get going. Nevertheless, the concept of canyoning or canyoneering was foreign and a tad scary to me–an uncharted territory of specialised equipment, brain-boggling technicalities and challenging courses.

Canyoning is an adventure sport that is rapidly gaining popularity worldwide. It involves a combination of fun, thrilling outdoor activities such as trekking, scrambling, sliding, rappelling, jumping and swimming, often in remote and rugged natural settings.

I was sold.

The Other Side of Paradise It was no ordinary Sunday morning. My husband and I were deep in the heart of wilderness, beneath the rainforest canopy of Git Git in northern Bali, suited up in our canyoning necessities: five-millimetre wetsuit, helmet, rubber boots and climbing harness attached with carabiners and a Pirana descender for rappelling and an unflattering butt cushion for water sliding.

Accompanied by two other couples, our guide Angga, his assistant Oka and Imin the photographer from Adventure and Spirit (Bali’s pioneering canyoning operator), we explored Kalimudah, the novice’s easy half of the action-packed Kerenkali Canyoning Adventure. This is Bali like we’ve never seen before.

ADVENTURE

The Wild, Wild, Wet Undeterred by the impending rain we trekked through a scenic trail of forested hilltops amidst coffee and clove plantation, clambering over rocks and ridges and sliding down water-polished chutes into surprisingly chilly pools. So far, so good–until Angga started to set up the lines for our first rappel and show us the ropes (excuse the pun).

Rappelling or abseiling is the act of descending from a vertical drop in a safe, controlled way by mastering the craft of the knot. The techniques were simple enough, yet I was nervous. Oka was already at the bottom, holding the (emergency brake) lines, just in case.

It was my turn to go. “Lean back and keep your feet flat against the wall,” Angga instructed. I took a deep breath, positioned my hands on the ropes and my legs shoulder width apart at right angles to the rock and descended gradually, a little steadier and speedier with each step while maintaining my focus and control.

I did it! I made it down in one piece, albeit with minor scratches. It was a strange sensation: a mix of pride and awe, much like when I took my first underwater breath while scuba diving.

Taking the Plunge High from the adrenaline rush and newfound confidence, we moved swiftly, completing a cool sequence of jumping, rappelling and zip-lining down the volcanic gorges in relative ease.

“Rule number one of cliff jumping: Don’t change your mind,” said Angga, a confident, athletic young man with a sparkling personality and an infectious enthusiasm.

“Jumping is optional; there is no pressure. But once you’ve decided to jump, stop overthinking it and just do it! The risk is in the hesitation,” he added. He obviously loves his job and is well-versed in the art of empathy and the psychology of motivation.

Placing his left foot forward on the edge of the four-metre cliff and his right foot firmly back, he continued, “When you’re ready, push off with your front leg and jump out as far

as you can. Before landing in the water, keep your arms in and your knees slightly bent.â&#x20AC;?

As if on cue, Oka stepped into the demo jump position and leapt off, striking a cheeky midair pose for the camera before plunging feet first into the waterhole. Within seconds he surfaced and signalled OK to us. Easy breezy!

When we arrived at the top of a 15-metre waterfall, our last abseiling challenge before the break, the tropical rain showers had turned into a torrential downpour.

Channelling my inner Lara Croft, I braved the waterfall and planted my feet on the slippery rock. For a minute I was caught off guard by the sheer force of raging white water pounding relentlessly at me. But there was no turning back and absolutely no looking up.

My helmet came in handy in protecting my head and providing a breathing pocket under the waterfall as I rappelled down to safety.

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Sadly, due to the prolonged downpour with a possibility of dangerous flash floods, Angga made the unpopular call to end our journey and give Kerenkali a miss. Safety always comes first at Adventure and Spirit. We nursed our wet, disappointed selves with energy bars and sweet tea in a natural hot spring by the waterfall before reluctantly returning to civilization.

Bali Like Nobody Knows In 2008 seasoned French canyoneer Michael Denissot (Mika) and his nature-loving Indonesian business partner Robin Endro introduced canyoning to Bali and Indonesia.

It took them three years to get it up and running, and now they are the undisputed experts in leading canyoning tours of all levels into the sublime landscapes of Bali.

Mika went a step further and initiated the International Canyoning Organization for Professionals (ICOpro) in 2011–the first organization in the world to offer professional canyoning trainings, standardization and certifications.

When asked how one can prepare for canyoning, Mika simply said, “Bring your courage, smile and trust. The only question you should be asking yourself is: ‘Do you want to do it?’”

Reaching New Heights You will never know your powers until they are unlocked by fear. “When our guests arrive at the end of the waterfall, many of them feel like they have won something,” shared Robin.

“They have conquered their fear,” he smiled.

And so have I. I came away from canyoning enriched, humbled and exhilarated. The experience has extended my physical and mental limits, inspired my spirited sense of adventure and deepened my respect for nature, especially the personal natures of my heart, mind and body.

In a team extreme sports environment such as canyoning, we cannot help but bare our souls for others to see. Angga said it best, “In nature, we are a team. There is no boss or customer.

We support and help each other along the way. We are equals.” And that’s the spirit–in canyoning and in life!

PT. Adventure and Spirit Mas, Ubud, Bali | Tel: +62 361 971 288 www.adventureandspirit.com UbudLife 77

nEXT ISSUE image gemini studio bali

Make your own Jamu - we follow a class to see how to make some of Indonesia's famous herbal remedies.

Soujourn in Kintamani - when you want to escape the humidity, to be surrounded with untrammelled nature and market gardens, a day or two in Kintamani should fill the bill.

Ubud's Top Ten - by a mystery guest.

YOGA - is it what its cracked up to be?

A New Ayurvedic Resort promises rejuvenation.Â

RESTAURANTS

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Ayung Resort Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Gunung Merta Bungalow Jl. Andong, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975463 Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168 www.villabejiindah.com

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 www.copperubud.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com de Warung Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 971465 www.dewarung.com Folk Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056 Kailasha Restaurant Sebatu, Ubud Phone: 0361 902222 www.kailasharestaurant.com

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 Kafe Topi Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 NOMAD Jl. Raya Ubud 35, Ubud Phone: 0361 977169 www.nomad-bali.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 Warung Alami Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Phone: 081 23913754 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81239655905

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com Cafe Havana Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 972973 www.cafehavanabali.com UbudLife 79

SPAS Aura Theraphy Spa Ubud Aura Retreat Center Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 27997658 www.balihealingspa.com Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Nani Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Hp: 082 3404 15848 Sang Spa 1 Reborn Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 973236 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa 2 Jl. Raya Jembawan 13B, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277222 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa 3 Monkey Forest Road, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277333 www.sangspaubud.com Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Gootama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

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SHOPS Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

GALLERIES

Nirmala - Work On Tâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

EWA Oceanic Art Gallery Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 8123 683 5261 www.ewaoceanicgallery.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 www.sisibag.com SISI + NANAN Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Hp: 085 1007 65896 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hp: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com

SPORT/RECREATION Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.com

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com

Bali Electric Bikes Jl. Raya Nyuh Kuning No. 2, Ubud Phone: +62 813 5362 2250 www.bali-ebikes.com

Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

USEFUL NUMBERS

EAST BALI SECTION

Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com

Ambulance Airport Authority

118 751011

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office Search and Rescue

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Villa Matanai Jasri Beach - East Bali Phone: +6281337611010 www.villamatanai.com

NORTH BALI SECTION The Hamsa Resort Jl. Air Terjun Sing-Sing, Desa Cempaga, Lovina, Singaraja Phone: +62 813 3719 4975 Pemuteran Coastal Village www.pemuterancoastalvillage.com

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502

Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765 www.balitamansari.com

PEMUTERAN

C O A S T A L

V I L L A G E

Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605

WWW.PEMUTERANCOASTALVILLAGE.COM

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LAST WORD

LAST WORD

Merry Christmas and an enlightened New Year Mark Ulyseas

Not Xmas. Not Season’s Greetings. But a warm hug and wishes for a Merry Christmas, which is about love, sharing and rediscovering one’s own wonderful memories with family and friends past. And the innocence that we once possessed and lost, like virginity.

Christmas for me is not about eating and drinking till one regurgitates all over the place. It is a reminder of times past spent … family, relatives and friends, home cooked delicacies, singing and dancing and worshipping. A sharing of one’s happiness and contentment with all whom one avoids throughout the year. It is like a peace meeting between warring factions in no man’s land. An enchanted time out from the vagaries of living.

For many among us it is a reaffirmation of Faith. A belief that practicing non-violence, forgiveness and charity is the only way forward to enlightenment.

For others it is a reminder of how far we are lost in the forest of iniquities of our own making, and how this time each year a path opens to lure us back to moderation, moderation of our senses.

This is the New Year for millions. The rebirth of hope and love. A soul stirring confluence of the past and present conspiring to resurrect our lives from the mundanity of mendacities. And an acceptance of the inevitable – that this could be the last Christmas on earth for a loved one…quite overlooking the fact that it could be our last Christmas.

The choice is ours to make – to step back into the old year or step forward into a new year or continue to vacillate between the absurd and the light.

Will this Christmas be the gateway to a seminal year for us or will it be just another reason for debauchery and waste and violence and thievery.

The choice is ours to make while we continue genuflecting before the beast of consumerism.

Merry Christmas and a Peaceful New Year to the readers of Ubud Life.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Christmas is the reason for peace, peace that we must make with ourselves as we stand on the threshold between the old year and a new year.

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

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