Ubud Life 30th Edition

UbudLife NO. 30 • MARCH - MAY 2017

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

BALINESE LOVE PYRAMIDS OF CHI UBUD A TANTALISING TRIO BORN TO RIDE RAJA AMPAT

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EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu, Welcome to our new issue of Ubud Life, the first for 2017, a year that promises excitement for many. Let’s keep our fingers crossed that it is so.

But our New Year is only the beginning of the new years to come.

Chinese New Year was in January, later in the year we have Idul Fitri and Dewali. Most importantly, for our Balinese community, in March the Balinese new Year arrives together with Nyepi, the day of Silence. This last day of the year is traditionally filled with quiet and introspection, ready for us to learn from mistakes past and make resolutions to be stronger, firmer, brighter for the coming season. If only the western countries could follow such a wonderful plan instead of nights of drunken revelry.

Of course even in Nyepi the old year is sent off with a bang, as the fearsome monsters or ogohogoh (said to derive form the English word “ogre” ) take to the streets. No doubt Nyepi will also be accompanied by the loud banging of firecrackers, rather than the traditional bamboo cannons used to scare away the demons.

Whichever way, New Year is a time of celebration and firecrackers help it to go with a bang. At the time of the new millennium, I was in Varanasi and after the inspirational address on the banks of the Ganges, by India’s great spiritual leaders, including HH the Dalai Lama, everybody went home and the lights went out. Being a “dry” city there was little to celebrate with. No fireworks, no alcohol available (well perhaps in the big hotels but I had forgotten about that).

It was just us, and the dark, quiet streets of India’s most holy city. In fact, it was rather like Nyepi, if one had the knowledge to embrace it.

So, however you decide to spend Nyepi, whether in retreat, or enjoying the luxury of a fancy villa or quietly ruminating on your life, be sure to make it memorable.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Ayu Sekar Ubud has a suurprising number of amazingly elaborate ceremonies! here small boys wait on a gaily decorated piece during a lull in the proceedings.

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors ibu kat ayu sekar rachel love jean couteau stephanie mee richard horstman publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

contents 18

BALINESE LOVE

60

VISITING A TRADITIONAL KNIFE MAKER

36

50

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A TANTALISING TRIO - THREE MUST VISITS IN UBUD

RAJA AMPAT...THE LAST PARDISE ON EARTH

PYRAMIDS OF CHI UBUD

BORN TO RIDE

happenings around ubud There are lots of sources for pride in the Ubud area recently. It is really coming of age and we have so many things to be proud of.

Even after the luscious views and verdant ricefields there are inroads of fabulous innovations to make this hill town an even better place to stay.

MANDAPA HITS THE NEWS NYEPI THE DAY OF SILENCE Nyepi 28th March - Everyones favourite time of the Balinese Calendar is Nyepi- the day of Silence. After a loud night of cracking fireworks and scarey ogoh ogoh on every corner (a sight to delight every kid no matter their age) the noise if followed buy a restful silence.

No traffic mars the peace. Only the barking of the odd dog and the occaisional rooster crow may mar the perfect peace. It is a time for meditation and introspection, although if you prefer to stay in a fancy villa and enjoy the luxe , well that is also allowed. No flights come in to Bali on Nyepi and no traffic is allowed o the road. Really, it is a wonderful experience and the best ay to hearld in Bali’s New Year.

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Trip Advisor and its myriad readers have recently named Mandapa – a Ritz Carlton Reserve o the outskirts of Ubud as one of the worlds Best hotels, and the best in the Asia Pacific Region. Excellent service always cheers and the service at Mandapa is way above average. Add in the excellent architecture, beautiful rooms and great restaurants and a magnificent scenic location, and there you have it - an Award winning property that knocks everybody’s socks off.

The lower levels of the beautiful property and the Kubu Restaurant overlook the gurgling Ayung River. Guests will be amused to see groups of helmeted rafters rush by each morning and evening. Such is the way of life by the river!

Mandapa – A Ritz Carlton Reserve Jl Kedewatan, Kedewatan, Ubud

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A return to indigenous healing arts, such as the Sunday morning Mala making class, which includes all materials to make your own Mala as well as a guided meditation.

WHAT’S NEW AT TAKSU Taksu that fabulous jungle spa in the middle of Ubud has plenty of new and exciting things happening. They have added a whole range of new venues, products and services to its affordably luxurious jungle spa in the heart of Ubud. After a period of construction, now is an ideal time to discover or rediscover this gorgeous place that’s right in the center of town, but a world away from the hustle and bustle of the main streets.

New workshop/yoga venues are equipped with AV and air con and already used by the 2016 UWRF and several yoga teacher training courses.

UBUD’S BRIGHT NEW SUPERMARKET Another exciting new addition to the Ubud scene is the arrival of Pepitos – a world class supermarket. While this would not raise an eyebrow down south, it is something to be celebrated up here in the hills. Airconditioned, trained staff, a great range of food and beverages to buy and even wifi. Indoor and outdoor seating create a chance to relax and enjoy an excellent cappuccino and catch up with a friend after the shopping is done.

Opened just around the end of 2016, the supermarket is already drawing plenty of excited customers who no longer need to go to Seminyak, Canggu or Sanur to but their meat products.

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New Magnesium Oil reflexology treatments provide great relief for aching muscles and migraines.

The magnesium will reduce stress and produce a much more restful and uninterrupted sleep. Their expanded terrace to the Garden Restaurant makes a delightful spot to enjoy their healthy and delicious meals and detox juices.

Smoothies and drinks can all be enjoyed overlooking the tranqui Taksu river valley.

Taksu is also the place for a great reflexology massage and a whole range of other wholistic treatments and massage. www.taksuspa.com (0361) 971490 Taksu Jl Goutama Selatan, Ubud. Bali. 80571, Indonesia

While vegetarian options are probably not as excessive as say, Bali Buddha, their fresh vegetables and produce certainly looks good.

As well as excellent produce and a range of goods, they have promotions and buyer incentives to keep customers happy.

Pepitos - Sayan Road just south of the Nyuh Kuning turnoff past the Coco Corner.

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A THOROUGH CLEANSING

Ayurvedic – yet another exciting new arrival on the outer Ubud scene is the full scale Ayurvedic Panca Karma detox and revitalisation Centre just twenty minutes north of town.

Situated in a verdant valley surrounded by rice terraces and birdsong, it makes a wonderful place to be in a state of cleansing. Every guest has to follow the Panca Karma treatment and will need a minimum of seven days to start feeling the benefit. Number one benefit is weight loss, as well as gains in health, feelings of well being and calm, and a general improvement in health.

Consultations with the lovely Ayurvedic doctor from India, delicious food which is a mix of Indian Ayurvedic and other dishes with an Italian influence. Nightly dinners are at a tale set with white linen and silverware a la Bridges, as the man in charge is also in charge there. Detox with elegance is a great way to go. http://www.oneworldayurveda.com/ One World Ayurvedic Retreat Tegallalang, Ubud

SOUND – IS A WAY LIFE Sound therapy focuses on the physiological, emotional and mental benefits of sound’s vibrations. The benefits are too many to list here. Ancient sages had reverence for sound energy as a tool for personal transformation and it is now being re discovered by new generations.

Everything that exists creates its own vibration, which can become a key to conscious living. Trained sound therapists who understand overtones and music intervals tend to have a better grasp of their effects on the consciousness. Live natural sounds that Shervin shares in his “Sound Medicine” sessions are presented in a way that differ from other “sound healing”, “Gong” and “Tibetan Bowl” meditations, and are more effective.

Different Frequencies affect different psyches as people attune differently based on their temperaments. Subtle use of sound can “touch” a listener on all levels, whereas loud, amplified, digitized and distorted kinds can actually add a layer of trauma. To try sound healing at one of Shervin’s sound healing evenings and find out for yourself.

He is at the Yoga Barn and at ARMA www.soundhealingbali.com 16 UbudLife

SEAFOOD GALORE At last! Seafood has come to Ubud! Or at least close by – in Mas, to be exact. In Jl Raya Mas, before the Big Baby statue is the brand new Paon Dahar. Run by Balinese Ida BAgus Foriyana, the well designed, open and airy eatery has tanks of fresh live fish, fresh prawns, scallops, and live crabs from Papua, or Negara, or wherever the best ones can be sourced.

The Seafood can be grilled on a big open air grill just outside the eating room, or stir fried with spices (I had mine with black pepper) in a wok. The experience is pleasant indeed, and such a thrill to eat fresh seafood without needing to drive to Jimbaran, or even further, to Tanjung Benoa.

They also serve a range of drinks and some rather cute desserts including Black rice pudding on a very well made crepe. It is all good. Be sure to call first to make sure their crab supply is in good order.

Jl Raya Mas 50, Ubud, T: 081 5758 78880

Balinese Love by jean couteau • images ?

For most Westerners love oscillates between two poles: on one side there is the romantic meeting of two individuals, and on the other side, the sexual encounter of two natural opposites, the active spermatozoon and the passive ovule. Platonic love versus one-night-stands and agape versus eros: these are the irreconcilable opposites that have always haunted the Western and now the modern world, with all their related problems and anxieties.

BALI LIFE

Always original, the traditional Balinese look at love with different eyes. To them, eros and agape are complements rather than opposites, and love is beyond the grasp of the individual.

To the Balinese, the sexual and love meeting is more than just an affair of two persons. It is a cosmic encounter. The person is thought to be a Microcosm (Bhwana Alit) that carries within the self a replica of the global cosmic forces (Bhwana Agung = Macrocosm). Thus, love involves not only individual persons, but also the forces of the macrocosmic world.

Expressed in the mediun of Balinese myth and philosophy, the love of a man and a women is an encounter of the god of love Smara (also called Kama), and the goddess of the moon Ratih or that of the cosmic male “Spirit” Pradana , and female “Matter” Purusa . Everything is eventually reduced to a system of sexual and complementary opposites (Rwabhineda). These conceptions are more than just symbolic images and people act accordingly. Magical illustrations of godly lovers are widely used by balian (witch doctors) to induce love in the intended partner. Not all the ploys are magical, though: in some villages, if a man or woman is unable to find a mate, he or she might go to cosmic extremities: the man lies on his belly and implores Pertiwi - the mother earth goddess - to bestow a wife on him, while the woman lies on her back and addresses Akasa - the father sky god. The symbolic sexual union of the man or woman with a cosmic lover is thus thought to bring him or her a human partner.

This is not without sexual connotations, though: the earth is always where it should be, underneath the sky.

Since love is beyond the individual, the forces that control it can easily be manipulated if need be. Balian witch doctors use a whole array of charms and counter-charms such as

effigies of gods and demons, hair, rings etc.

This magic has the advantage of taking the problems of love beyond the responsibility of the individuals: if your daughter sleeps with Made Kelor, it might be for the simple reason that he carries a powerful ring, which he must have got as a pica gift from a reputable temple. One can also apply magic in breaking off undesirable relationships: if your daughter, of the best blood, falls in love with that scoudrel, Ketut Dollar, a Sudra , there are ways out. You take her to a powerful balian and he will "catch" the lover's spirit and cast it away, regardless of what your daughter thinks. It is highly convenient, and it usually works, except when the tension runs so high that the youth choses death instead by suicide.

To the traditional Balinese, love extends beyond the person's life into the chain of its incarnations. To the sekala tangible love corresponds the niskala invisible one: you once met there, and you meet now in an earthly love whose main purpose is to enable one or several souls - your children - to incarnate from the other world.

According to Balinese myths, sexual intercourse is made possible through the entreaties of the god Sang Hyang Deleng, described as "the god of "the love stare" (deleng). Through the "love stare" comes the encounter of the two Kama emanations ( the god of love): the white Kama , which is the sperm of the man, and the red Kama , which is the ovule of the women. Their union produces a foetus, called by another god's name: Sang Hyang Jabang Bayi, that becomes the receptacle of the soul incarnating from the "Field of Sorrow" (Tegal Penyangsaran hell), where it was punished for sins from a past incarnation.

Once born, the soul has a debt, so people say, towards its begetters, whose sexual activities have made the incarnation possible, hence

ending the tortures of hell. This debt is paid upon the parent’s death, when their soul is sent back by the children - through the various rituals of death - to its invisible niskala abode.

But in the meantime, the incarnated soul - the child - has to look after itself. It has to find a love partner, in order to have the children who will in turn prepare the rituals of the upcoming death. Thus, to the Balinese, finding a mate is not just a sexual game; it is every incarnated soul's most important need, that may open the path to ultimate release, when the soul merges into the Supreme Soul (Paramatma - God).

After the metatah ceremony, the hunt may begin. The partner one selects has to be the right one. In Balinese stories, all the women the hero meets who are not thus “indebted” to him are “witches” driven by demonic desire.

The debt may result from past encounters in "the Field of Sorrow," Tegal Penyangsaran, where souls are tortured. For example, if you had helped a female soul to walk accross the infamous wobbling tree (titi ugal-agil) to escape from the advances of a lustful boar, you might well have unknowingly met the wife-or lover-of your next incarnation. Be warned, though. Next time you find yourself in hell, if you help a pretty "soul" out of some hellish torture, do it in earnest !!!!!. Otherwise you run the risk of seeing your wife come to you some day saying: "sorry, Beli (Older Brother), my debt to you has been paid in full. It is Made's turn, now". It may be the true reason of a divorce!!!

After the partner is found, Kama is satisfied.

The time comes now to look for wealth, artha, which corresponds to the second phase of life, and thus, to provide a living for the children who will care for their parents’ souls after death. Later, in more advanced years, one should strive for virtue, dharma , and overcome all earthly desires. Sex should cease, as it is then the age for Knowledge (Aji).

The soul is waiting for deliverance or moksa.

If it succeeds the soul will rejoin the ancestral abode, high over the mountains. If it fails, it will go back to the “Field of Sorrow”, to wait for more sex and more pain.

A sacred duty, sex should therefore be controlled, by gods rather than by demons, as illustrated by the metatah coming-of age ceremony: the demonic forces are symbolically placated by the filing of the teeth, while the "patients" lie over drawn symbols of the participating gods, (Smara and Ratih).

However, things are now fast changing in Bali.

The god of love Smara is despairing: Ratih is looking for Rambo. Cosmic love is giving way to global sex. Where does the soul end up? In “the Field of Sorrow?”

Herbal Healing by stephanie mee • images windia pasimpangan

I

t’s a rainy Friday afternoon and I’m sitting inside the cosy enclave of Nadis Herbal on Jalan Suweta sipping on herbal tea and watching a hive of activity swarm around me. I’ve come for one of their jamu-making classes, and as I wait for instructor Citra to prepare the ingredients, there is a constant influx of visitors from places like Denmark, China and Australia all scouring the shop for fresh turmeric juice, herbal capsules and natural mosquito repellent. It seems I’m not the only one with an interest in traditional Indonesian herbal medicine.

Ancient recipes for jamu date back to the Majapahit era, and they were most likely brought over to Bali when the Majapahit royalty fled Java and settled here. Since then healers and herbalists have been drawing on these recipes—either written on lontar leaves or passed down orally—to make herbal remedies to cure all manner of ailments including high blood pressure, fever, indigestion, infection, and even diseases like cancer and heart disease.

Nadis Herbal is owned by Ni Wayan Lilir and her husband I Made Westi, and together they create all-natural products like herbal shampoos, medicinal teas, body scrubs and essential oils made with locally sourced organic fruits, herbs, roots and spices. Westi offers herbal walks through the countryside to forage for fresh ingredients, and Lilir draws on her degree in Balinese Ayurvedic medicine to teach guests how to make their own versions of jamu that they can recreate at home.

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HAPPY HERBS Today Citra will be teaching me how to make a jamu tonic drink, body scrub, body oil and a body mask. She begins by laying out trays of turmeric, galangal, tamarind and palm sugar and puts me to work slicing and chopping. As we mince the roots she explains the various health benefits of each of the ingredients. For example, turmeric contains curcumin, which has powerful anti-inflammatory properties and can help to improve memory, while galangal can help with motion sickness and menstrual cramps.

For the jamu tonic drink we slice the turmeric and galangal and throw them in a blender, add palm sugar, tamarind and water, blend and then boil for about 15 minutes. The result is a smooth, slightly spicy orange concoction that is the perfect antidote to the miserable weather outside, as well as a blood cleaner, expectorant and natural energizer.

Even better, I’m told it also has slimming properties, which will hopefully counter my holiday indulgences.

The body scrub (known as boreh in Indonesian) is up next, so we mince ginger and aromatic galangal and grind up the fibres along with pre-soaked rice, nutmeg, coriander seeds and clove powder with a mortar and pestle. The resulting paste is thick and grainy and can be rubbed into sore muscles or used to exfoliate the skin.

Citra tells me it has antiseptic and antifungal properties, and can even be placed behind the ears to relieve jetlag or on the temples for headaches.

Even easier to make are the body oil and body mask. For the oil we take fragrant frangipani and ylang-ylang flower petals and thinly sliced pandanus leaves, add them to pure coconut oil and then simmer gently for 15 minutes. While the floral scents are wafting through the shop, we blend up aloe

vera and corn to make the body mask. The whole time Citra gives useful tips on how to substitute rose petals or lavender in the oil and how long the concoctions will last in the refrigerator and at room temperature.

With the relative ease that it takes to make the products, I’m surprised that jamu-making is a dying art in Bali. I remember a previous conversation with Lilir when she told me that in the past everyone in Bali knew how to make jamu and nearly every Balinese compound had a garden full of healing roots and herbs. However, with the introduction of Western medicine, many of the old recipes have been forgotten.

Through Nadis Herbal, Lilir hopes to revive interest in traditional Balinese medicine and draw attention to the myriad of natural healing ingredients that are available in Bali and throughout Indonesia. Judging from the sheer number of people who drop into the shop during my jamu-making class and the armloads of products they carry out with them, I’d say that interest has already been well and truly sparked. www.nadisherbal.com UbudLife 29

de’ waRung Modern Balinese, Indonesian, Asian, Mexican, and Western Twist

Restaurant, Bar & Grill

Address: Monkey Forest Road, Post Code 80751 | Phone: +62 361 971465 Fax: +62 361 975188 |Web:www.dewarung.com de_warung

de warung

de’warung

de’warung

dewarung

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UBUD EATING

A Tantalising Trio T

hree must try choices while visiting Ubud.

Treat your taste buds and understand, that Ubud has something for everyone. Here we showcase a plant based eatery, Chinese and the more traditional Café Des Artistes.

The Golden Monkey Standing right in central Jl Dewi Sita, is Ubud’s new Chinese restaurant. Décor is pretty much what you would expect in a Chinese restaurant. Girls in well fitting, red Cheong Sam add a touch of the exotic and the well equipped kitchen viewed through the large glass window, confirm that is it authentic Chinese fare.

The menu even contains such specialty items as chicken feet, although personally I prefer more popular dishes like Peking Duck, complete with pancakes and Hoisin Sauce.

The imported duck meat remaining after the crispy skin is removed can be cooked in a choice of ways. Other favourites include roasted duck or pork or chicken, Crispy pork belly, and the BBQ Combination. Duck spring rolls are also on the menu. The chewy pork Spareribs come Chinese style, cooked with the tangy salted black beans that do so well with the succulent meat.

Dim Sum offers all the favourite choices – Jiaozi ( pan seared pork and prawn mince dumplings, pork buns, Sui Mai (pork and prawn dumplings), fried wontans, and Har Gow (delicious steamed prawn dumplings)! Order a plate and you won t regret it. The other favourite is the Sweet and Sour Pork which as much as it may be a tourist cliché, is still too good to refuse. Vegetarians will love the Eggplant Claypot redolent with rich spicy Szechuan sauce and ultra tender tofu.

Soups include double boiled chicken soup and the perennial favourite, Hot and Sour seafood soup as well as Chicken and Sweet Corn Soup. Various prawn and grouper dishes

three must visits in Ubud by ayu sekar • images jill alexander

complete the seafood selection. A selection of wines is available, as well as Prosecco, Champagne and some spirits. But look out for the excellent Espresso Martini, which totally hits the spot. It is so much more fun than any other dessert in town.

The Golden Monkey – Jl Dewi Sita, Ubud. T: 08123606367 or book online

Café Des Artistes An old Favourite, Café Des Artistes on Jl Bisma offers the sort of fare that we all love to eat now and then. Indoor and outdoor seating, it has the atmosphere of a favourite cafe in Europe and its easy to while away a few hours here.

Their grilled tenderloin steaks are the hot favourite and come accompanied by a variety of choices, including pats of excellent herbed butter. Vegetable extras can be ordered on top of the baked potato and salad that comes with it. Who can resist a broccoli au gratin.

They also have a small selection of Thai favourites, UbudLife 37

great starters, including tuna spring rolls and sautéed mushrooms on toast, pate, prawns and even snails a la Bourguignonne. It is a menu that caters to everyone’s favourite western dishes.

With a list of over 40 wines, both local and imported, aperitifs and cocktails, Café Des Artistes is hard to beat.

Café Des Artistes – Jl Bisma, Ubud T: 0361 972706 or reserve@ cafedesartistesbali.com

Moksa Moksa, is the new plant based foods eatery that is causing a minor sensation amongst the Ubud foodies. Created by two Balinese men, Junor and Chef Made they have, between them, an impressive list of credentials, Moksa offers almost food cooked at less than 42 C, which dehydrates rather than bakes.

The garden restaurant is located close to the Mansion, lying somewhere between Penestanen and Sayan and once you know how, it is quite easy to find.

Both guys spend a lot of their time at the restaurant, cooking, talking to their guests, gardening and generally seeing that everything runs smoothly.

After one gets over the idea of a meatless meal, the food becomes interesting. Made believes that their food is healing and he is a living example as his own health has been turned around.

As a soft rain fell onto the quiet garden area, we dined on some of his favourites – a Caesar Salad with gently grilled tempe and iceberg lettuce enlivened with an interesting dressing and pieces of sundried tomato and spiced pumpkin seeds. Nice! But when a huge plate of Aubergine Rendang appeared, my 38 UbudLife

interested changed accordingly. Swathed in a totally delicious rendang gravy with a subtle use of coconut oil spices, the combination of the soft grilled aubergine and the sauce was simply irresistible. The accompaniment, was a small serving of red rice and a very good kimci – unusual but it worked well!

The spiced noodle salad, redolent with sesame oil and intriguing flavours was so good, that you barely notice that the “noodles” were actually long slivers of raw zucchini.

Sneaky solutions!

Desserts include a luscious mango passionfruit “cheesecake”. With a crunchy base of grilled coconut and dates and a creamy cheese mixture created from fermented cashews and mangoes, you barely noticed that it is raw. Creativity is plainly at work. It is all sounds so good that s it is worth a try, at least occasionally.

Moksa – Sayan, Ubud T: 0361 479 2479 www.MoksaUbud.com

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ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

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Bali BaliSpirit SpiritFestival Festival

BaliSpirit Festival amplifies the energy and spirituality felt in Bali; through high vibe music, yoga and consciousness. Throughout the day there is a wide range of yoga classes, workshops, dharma talks and healing. Each night features an exciting music concert.

There are a variety of tickets and special rates for expats and locals. BUY YOUR PASSES at Hubud on Jln. Monkey Forest No. 88X or online at www.balispiritfestival.com/tickets

B

ali’s biggest and only annual yoga and music festival, BaliSpirit Festival will be celebrating their 10th anniversary from March 19 – 26.

BaliSpirit Festival is a unique festival, celebrating a cultural amalgamation of East meets West through yoga, world music and healing.

Co-Founded by Kadek Gunarta, Meghan Pappenheim and Robert Weber in 2008 with the intention of creating community and giving back to Bali, BaliSpirit Festival has become one of the leading and longest yoga and music festivals in the world, attracting over 7000 people each year and a high caliber of yoga teachers, healers and musicians from across the globe.

This year BaliSpirit Festival will start on March 19th with a vibrant Community Day, open to the public from 12noon – 9pm. Set within Bhanuswari Resort & SPA, the Community Dharma Fair area consists of Healing Huts, a market for conscious retail therapy, the Coco Love Stage for music and dance performances, the Community Pavilion for family friendly yoga and workshops and a Kids Zone. One day passes for the community area are just IDR 50,000 and are free for children under 12.

In the evenings of Monday, March 20 – Thursday, March 23, Bhakti Night events include Sacred Cacao Ceremony, Kirtan, led by The Hanumen, Sacred Chant music

by Jai Jagdeesh and Ecstatic dance, led by legendary Ecstatic Dance DJ Shaman’s Dream.

It is a week of sacred celebration and ultimate liberation, for both artists and audience, an energetic high point, felt throughout Ubud.

In the evenings of Friday, March 24 – Sunday, March 26, the One World One Stage nighttime music concerts take place at ARMA Resort.

The One World One Stage artists headlining at BaliSpirit Festival include Australian singersongwriter and activist, Xavier Rudd & The United Nations, harmonic vocal singer, Zap Mama, who infuses Urban, Hip-Hop and African vocal techniques, feel-good Indian Bollywood artists, Chugge Khan & Rajasthan Josh to name just a few. The full night music schedule can be viewed on the festival website.

BaliSpirit Festival has an ability every year to unite a highly conscious community of individuals from all over the world, who gather together with a shared appreciation of yoga, music, health and the incredible devotional culture of Bali. People come back each year to connect with a like-minded community where they are in a safe space, able to be at peace and reach their highest self. For more information, visit

www.balispiritfestival.com

Spirit of Bali words and image ayu sekar

These happy boys are sitting at a ceremony in Tenganan, the beautiful Bali Asli village outside Candidasa! the spirit of Bali always shines through no matter how serious the occasion!

BALI ESA DRIVER Patience driver for your safe and comfortable trips in Bali area.

Services: • Tour guide and driver • Activities • Ticket to Gili

OUT Contact Us: Phone: +62819 1619 4294 Email: baliesadriver@gmail.com Whatsapp: +62819 1619 4294 Website: www.baliesadriver.com Tripadvisor: Bali Esa Driver Facebook: Bali Esa Driver

by richard horstman • images ayu sekar

Of all the iconic, historical monuments that grace the planet, Egypt’s ancient Pyramids of Giza are the most fascinating. For many, especially some of the folk who gravitate to Ubud, these mysterious architectual objects, claimed to be the tombs of great pharaohs, have a special calling.

Could this be associated to an obscure past life experience?

N

ow the modern landscape of Ubud has a unique and exciting, and maybe chance related new landmark. Located three kilometres north of central Ubud, up Jalan Suweta are the Pyramids of Chi. Set out upon four acres and nestled in the rice fields, the Pyramids of Chi complex features two structures built to the scale of the famous Giza Pyramids. Constructed with precision according to the ratios of sacred geometry, aligned to directional coordinates, the 1-16th, and 1-18th scale structures are situated over water, all to help generate a special energy.

“The pyramids are tuned to a specific frequency focused upon balancing the human body’s internal energy centers, that regularly get out of alignment and cause illness or discomfort, usually through stress or emotional issues,” said Peter McIntosh, who along with his wife Lynn are the founders of the Pyramids of Chi. “When combined with the power of sound, via ancient instruments of drums, gongs and didgeridoos the effect the pyramids have on the body is remarkable,” he said, and adds,

HEALING

“Through our years of business experience in Western Australia we came to understand the nature of sound healing, along with the magnetic forces created within a pyramidal structure.”

“How does this work?” I asked.

“We are vibrational beings,” Peter said. “Our body is comprised of 80% water. When we are subjected to sound frequencies, the body responds, either mentally, emotionally, physically or spiritually. That is how sound healing can occur.”

“Following thorough research it was revealed that pyramids are upon every continent of the planet, even under many oceans, and with over 300 in China and Central America.

So they must be there for a purpose. We continued our research and found that they all create electro magnetic power – a very special kind of energy.”

During the past 10 years Ubud has become a thriving centre for yoga, meditation and alternative forms of knowledge, medicinal modalities, along with sacred practices from Bali’s Hindu religion. According to the locals the village was once called Ubad, related to the word obat meaning medicine. It makes senses that the wisdoms of the pyramids now make their home here in Ubud.

“Sound healing is practised all over the world, also used in hospitals with ultra sound, and during the past few years has become popular here in Ubud,” Peter continues. “It is acknowledged that sound works on healing our bodies in many wonderful ways. By experiencing the combination of the sound healing and the pyramid’s natural energies, the people within the pyramids receive a unique amplified sensation and come out completely relaxed and stress free, and often feeling quite re-energized.

The process involves the clients entering one of the Pyramids, lying down on the mattress covered floor, and then for one hour listening to the sounds of the instruments while falling into states of deep relaxation. “We simply facilitate the optimum conditions,

the sounds reverberate within the structures and surround the receivers who then respond according to their own body’s natural processes,” said Peter, who has seen this occur time and time again with a previous operation in Australia.

“We would love to see the Pyramids of Chi popping up all over the world, in every major tourist destination so people can experience the healing power of sound. We know it works. It has to be done with the right procedure, enhancing the receiver’s body and its ability to cure itself.”

“Ubud, Bali is the perfect showcase for the Pyramids,” Peter said. “People come from all over the world to seek out Ubud’s transformational experiences via health retreats, yoga, detox etc. Hopefully some people will respond so positively that they will be inspired to establish their own on other parts of the planet, so others people can easily access the Pyramids of Chi.”

Now with the Pyramids of Chi as a one of a kind feature of Bali’s burgeoning wellness sector, there is good reason to spend more time in Ubud and explore what it has to offer.

Peter and Lynn’s key purpose for introducing this project, and the amazing experience is to help people to discover the wonders of complete relaxation using sound and vibrations.

After having invested 3 years in a journey that has involved great challenges and many rewards, trusting in their intuition, along with the support of many people, Peter and Lynn believe they have something special to share.

The official opening of the Pyramids of Chi in March is a reason for much celebration, not only for Lynn and Peter, yet also their many friends in the Ubud community, and curious others joining in.

“After retiring we decided to do something to help other people. Financially secure and with time on our hands, we were driven to contribute to helping create a better world.

We agreed that whatever future business we would become involved in would be for the greater good.”

The Pyramids of Chi complex includes a café serving delicious ‘conscious food’ and good coffee, an education center, and outdoor space for community events and workshops.

It is something out of the ordinary, but don’t just take my word for it.

“We were guided to be here in Ubud by many circumstances,” said Peter. “Some years ago I had a vision of building 2 pyramids, and now, over time, our dream has come true.”

Ubud has become known as the 'Spiritual Epicentre of Asia' and one of the centres of 'Yoga Development and Attraction' globally.

52 UbudLife

Best you venture out and experience for yourself. Our inner, subconscious world with which we engage during states of deep relaxation allows us access to infinite treasures.

Who knows what you will find? www.pyramidsofchi.com

UbudLife 53

56 UbudLife

Ayung Resort

Nacho Mama

Putri Bali Spa

Kopi Kat

Palm

Warung Alami

Bintang Super Market

Wayan Karja

Terracota

Dalem Temple

Folk, Nomas

Bali Healing Museum Puri Lukisan Griya

Warung Merta Sari

Copper Kitchen & Bar

Sri Ratih & Spa La Pacha Mama

Bridges Divine

Skin Spa

Villa Beji

Puri Sebali Resort

MA S O K W AYA H

U

NI

Yin

Nani Spa Kayma Spa We’are

Kebun

Warung Sopa

Bambooku

Sang Spa

SenS Sayuri

White Box

Red Lotus

UMA SOK WAYAH

HighwayTM Neka

Studio Perak

BPD Wr Siam Biah Biah Soma

Milano Spa Down To Earth Cendana

EWA

Skin Bolero Fresh

Kopi Coffee Sensatia

Nomad Nirmala

Ubud Sari

A SUB

UUK M K J A

S

Gunung Merta Bungalow

Puri Gangga Resort

Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Sisi

Pilar Batu Sala Kafe Topi

Taman Beji Spa

Garden Sopa

Arma Museum Arma Rsort The Sunti

Sari Api Greenfield Buddha Bowl Goddess Jaens Spa Panorama Pizza Bagus

Kafe Arma

BSF The Pond Cocoon

Studio Perak

Monkey Legend

Biah-Biah+

Studio Perak Kunci de’ waRung

ISLAND OF BALI

Villa Beji Indah

Putri Ubud Spa

Sang Spa

UBUD

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

UbudLife 59

A DAY WITH PAK PANDE VISITING A TRADITIONAL KNIFE MAKER by ibu kat

A

well-honed blade is an integral part of Balinese culture. Every man has at least one knife which is used to cut bamboo, open coconuts, butcher pigs and perform all the other practical daily tasks. We foreigners are very selective about our kitchen knives but our Balinese neighbours are not into brands. Our staff find the finely honed Henckel or Il Cucinino blades in our kitchens flimsy and unequal to the tasks of hacking down coconuts or opening huge pumpkins. The tips snap off, and we cringe when they strop our precious blades on the concrete pathway.

60 UbudLife

TRADITIONS The Balinese appreciate a heavy, workmanlike blade and still prefer those made by hand in their own communities. The Pande caste have traditionally been the only Balinese allowed to work with metal since the mists of time, producing knives, farm implements, weapons and jewellery. Pande who have taksu (charisma, spiritual power, divine connection or artistic inspiration) specialise in making ceremonial kris and are known as empu. But most of the knives being made these days are for use in the kitchen or for heavy work like dispatching and dismembering pigs and pruning trees.

I’d been wanting to visit a knife making pande for some time. Recently my housekeeper took me to visit an old Pande who lived about half an hour outside of Ubud. Just inside the gate of the simple compound was the primitive forge with its sacks of charcoal and simple smithing tools. A few knives and sickles waited attention on the platform.

Luckily Wayan was with me to translate, because Pak Pande spoke very little Indonesian; like many old people, he spoke only Balinese. He had never had a foreigner in his compound before and was very shy.

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He thought he was about 75 years old yet still steady of hand and eye.

The lineage of knife making Pandes in his compound extended to four generations which is about as far back as most ordinary Balinese can remember. But these days there is no profit in this specialised work. Pak Pande makes knives only on demand now because he enjoys, it although he can no longer make a living from it. He spends most of his time in the rice fields.

I asked him to make a mutik (small kitchen knife) for me and sat back to watch the process. There was a plastic pail of old scrap metal which he used to forge the knife blades.

He melts down some of the scrap or, if the alloy is appropriate, cuts it by hand to the right length and width before beating it into a blade. But he already had a few unset blades, and asked me to choose which one I wanted before setting to work.

In these modern times he used an electric sander to put an edge on the blade. Sparks flew, but there was no nonsense about safely goggles, gloves or boots. All he wore was a pair of ancient shorts. Then he took the blade to his forge and started a small electric fan to blow air into the charcoal fire.

There is something magical about watching a smith at work. Even Wayan, who had visited this Pande before, was entranced. Once he got the fire going, he donned a straw farmer’s hat and relaxed into rhythm of his craft. First he annealed the blade in the hot little charcoal fire, plunged it into a trough of water with a hiss of steam, then finished the blade edge carefully on a worn file and then a special stone.

He demonstrated its sharpness by shaving the edge of his beard with a naughty sideways glance; there was a shy grin behind the 62 UbudLife

grizzled beard. Then he fitted the blade into the handle, measuring by eye and heating the shaft in the fire for a tight fit. He worked as if every move was programmed into his DNA; perhaps it was. He had done all of these things thousands of times in his life, and his ancestors before him.

The entire process of making a knife takes a full day if he has to make the blade as well.

It takes three hours to forge and shape the blade, then he must make carve the wooden handle, attach the purchased metal rings at top and bottom of handle with much filing and fitting, then fit the handle to the blade and put a good sharp edge on it. He can sell the knife for Rp 50,000, about half the minimum wage today.

As with so many traditional crafts on Bali, knife making will probably disappear in the next generation or two. In his Pande lineage, the son takes over the work when the elder dies, they do not work together.

Pak Pande has no son. His grandson works for a rafting company near Ubud. I can’t help wondering whether the young man will embrace the dirty, poorly paid life of a metal worker when he’s making good money and probably enjoying his work with the tourist industry. The inbred wisdom of understanding the nature of metal will no longer be passed down from father to son as it has been through the ages in this compound.

Already most of Bali’s hand looms have grown still as the weavers go to work in shops and spas. Soon the old forge will grow cold, and Pak Pande’s grandson’s children will grow up thinking that knives come from a shop.

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BONAVENTURA “BONZ” SURYA by richard horstman • images bonaventura

Change is inevitable.

Since the introduction of the Wayang religious characters into Nusantara (the name given the Indonesian archipelago pre colonial Dutch intervention) over 2000 years ago, the famous story telling figures from the Hindu sacred texts have evolved, absorbing many influences.

From the wayang berber, (long natural fibre scrolls depicting stories that were rolled out to accompany oral narratives), to the wayang kulit (shadow puppet theatre), and more recently the wayang, or Kamasan paintings that thrived in Bali during the 17-19th centuries, (and is still a living tradition today), wayang continues to evolve. More recently, they have taken on a novel approach, as a part of a budding young Balinese artist’s vision to create a series of books.

The box set series of ten books is titled Narasinga – Cerita Antara Dewa Wisnu Dengan Illustrasi Gaya Wayang Kamasan Bali (Narasinga – Stories Between Lord Wisnu with Illustrations in the Balinese Wayang Style).

“Each of the books features a different reincarnation of Wisnu,” said the twenty-two year old Bonaventura I Komang Surya Angga Daditya. In October 2016 he completed four years of studying fine art, graduating from the Indonesian Art Institute, ISI Denpasar. “They are teachings about the challenges of life and how we as humans, must learn to balance the good and the bad, in order to find the middle path between to peace and harmony”he explains.

From his own initiative Bonaventura, (born in a Balinese Christian family and hence the unusual first name) set out to create a series of books featuring Kamasan iconography and the original Balinese Hindu texts, in which Vishnu is the central story-telling character.

Understanding the importance of creating a practical educational tool, each book ends with an epilogue in order to clearly define its teachings.

“My illustrations are both within and outside the traditional rules, or pakem, of the Kamasan style. My colour depictions are more natural, the figures are more realistic and much less

rigid than the original forms and I add extra decorative props into the scenery, such as tiled floors, pillars and curtains,” he said.

As a gifted artist, especially fond of illustrations, Bonaventura learned important information about wayang Kamasan art from a senior master of the genre, Pak Mandra from the village of Kamasan, near Klungkung. He travelled regularly to meet with the master and do research, where he was given a book of rules about the traditional style.

Venturing into the studio Bonaventura shares with his identical twin brother, who too is a gifted artist, and focuses on imagery for printing onto clothes and stickers, the four walls are lined from floor to ceiling with works on paper, in lead pencil, coloured pencil, black pen, and dazzling acrylic paint colours.

Images of animals, pop culture icons, pretty girls, intricately decorated outrageous beasts, icons from the Balinese culture, fantastic worlds of imagination, even sketches of their father come to life in their 2 dimensional works. Taking centre stage in the studio is

WHO’S WHO worlds of imagination, even sketches of their father come to life in their 2 dimensional works. Taking centre stage in the studio is a large table, scattered with pencils and sketchpads, along with their most vital of modern tools - laptop computers.

“My love of drawing developed from a young age. A freestyle approach evolved during my youth and then grew into me copying different styles of illustrations I had seen in books, comics and the internet, of course Japanese manga has had a great influence,” Bonaventura said, and importantly adds, “I have also disciplined my skills in the modes of still life sketching and portraiture.”

“Now, however my technique involves using digital technology and Photoshop in my laptop, allowing me to complete illustrations more quickly than by drawing and colouring in.”

Bonaventura balances his outpourings between the technical modes of the computer and manually creativity by hand.

The young star in the making has already featured in the local media and has been approached by a publisher, yet they were unable to agree on terms. The quality of his concept, matched with his determination to introduce beautifully presented Balinese aesthetics and narratives into an A4 book format size (to be sold) is an innovation.

“I wish to reach a larger audience by introducing change through modern variations to traditional aesthetics,” the artist said. “My ultimate dream is to capture a global audience.”

LEGEND:

Provincial capital

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Places of interest

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Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

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Pemuteran Reef Building

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Antur

Lovina

Gobleg

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

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Pangkungdedari Melaya

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Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

Temple

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Munduk Yehkuning

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

Sanda Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Belimbing

Ampadan

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Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

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Tamblang

Sukasada

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Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Coral View Villas Euro Dive Bali

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

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BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

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CANDIDASA •

UBUD’S FAVOURITE GETAWAY by ayu sekar • images jillo

68 UbudLife

OUTADVENTURE OF TOWN

W

e people who live in Ubud often have a craving for a beach sojourn.

Sanur is beautiful and always pleasing but just an hour to the east is Candidasa.

With its clear waters and rolling surf and great diving on the doorstep, it makes a kind of obvious choice for a getaway.

Heading out along the freeway, the sky becomes bigger, the mysterious green hills appear in the hazy distance, like some kind of magic talisman and suddenly you get that feeling – you’re on the road!

That on the road feeling is hard to beat!

Open skies, open road. The blue hills become ever closer and before you know it, you are passing the fish sate places where billows of smoke curl into the air, while the boys charcoal grill their fresh charges!

It is always a great place to stop for lunch, and the crowds will attest to their popularity. Then it is Goa Lawah – one of Bali’s most holy pilgrimage places (after Besakih of course). There is a ceremony of sorts there almost every day, with crowds of white swathed Balinese milling about with offerings and holy men in their wake.

Pass on by Kusamba’s few remaining traditional salt makers – where else does premium hand made sea salt receive such little attention and command such low prices! (Look at the price of Malden sea salt and Celtic sea salt, in countries where is it valued!) Stop and watch the process and maybe even buy some salt to use later.

Then it is smooth sailing to the distinctive entrance to Karangasem, Bali’s most evocative regency. You can feel the very energy change as you pass through those split gates, and the benign gaze of Bali’s holiest mountain starts to watch over you.

A little before Candidasa is the turnoff to Tenganan, the well-kept Bali Aga village that is the dream location for every photographer, every wannabe and artist.The location is sublime and the rhythm of their life is punctuated by frequent celebrations. Welldressed visitors are always welcome. Drop by or put it on your list of great excursions to make after the joys of pool sitting begin to wane.

Then before you know it, you are rounding the curve that leads in to this little tourist town. Fresh sea air assails the nostrils and a host of eateries and all kinds of hotels await exploration.

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and well heeled Balinese. A little further out of town, by the city of Amlapura, Bali Asli draws people from near and far as Australian chef, Penny Williams serves up authentic Balinese food in superb surroundings overlooking Bali’s holy mountain, Gunung Agung and it’s worth a day trip.

Many people choose to stay outside the centre in one of the burgeoning new resorts and villa accommodations that keep popping up in the hinterland.

So once settled into the hotel of your choice, a smorgasbord of enticing activities awaits. If you are sitting, relaxing near the sea, you may be approached by a fisherman, who will enthusiastically offer a sunrise jaunt by jukung (fishing boat), a fishing trip, or a late afternoon sunset trip. Grab one – they are well priced and will make your stay much more memorable.

Numerous dive shops offer great trips to locations near and far. Recently, I was surprised to learn, that the famous giant Mola Mola of Nusa Penida fame, actually surfaces from the depths by the small rocky islands that lie right in the front of Candidasa, not far from the shore! Beside the mysterious Mola Mola, there are turtles and teeny brachiopods to discover not to mention a host of tropical reef fish.

As for eating, no trip to Candidasa is complete without a visit to Vincent’s – arguably the best restaurant on the east coast.

Thursdays bring jazz nights where a crowd of local expats and tourists gather to listen to some cool jazz. Le 48 is another popular eatery, which faces onto Candidasa’s beautiful lotus strewn lagoon, the centrepiece of this little fishing town. This French inspired menu is also designed to please. LeZat Beach Restaurant has turned into an enticing eatery by the sea, with great dishes to delight the palate of both foreigners 70 UbudLife

Anyone looking for a great day out heads to Perasi and the White Sand Beach, about a fiteen minute drive north of Candidasa. White sands, clear waters and beach loungers with umbrellas make it a great place to hang out. Dozens of local restaurants line the beach and their specialty is usually fresh grilled fresh with accompaniments of vegetables and sambals. Or a plate of nasi goreng is also good. Cold beers and fresh fruit juices are always available.

Lying on your lounger, you will be approached by folk who want to give you a massage.

Well why not! Trinket traders and sarong sellers are also known to pass by, but it is all pleasant and low key, far different to the more hectic southern beaches.

So for a day or a week, Candidasa makes a great getaway with as much action or as little as you want. There is plenty to discover but I won’t spoil it by telling you all the secrets. Let you all discover some things for yourselves.

TIPS

pura protocol

Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously.

Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

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RAJA AMPAT... by rachel love • images pt. adventure and spirit

H

ere, translucent turquoise waters lap the scorching white-sand beaches, coral reefs are identified by shining ribbons of aquamarine, and secret lagoons form the settings for emerald gems. The green theme persists in the deeper, distinctly jade-coloured channels that run between the many islands, morphing to milky mint in the narrow, river-like passages, all of which reflect the unrelenting verdure of the thickly forested hills.

Described as the ‘Last Paradise on Earth’, Raja Ampat straddles the Equator off the extreme northwestern tip of Indonesia’s Papua province. The region is an archipelago of 610 islands; a figure that can be boosted 72 UbudLife

islets, which are so undercut by waves that they look like mushrooms, topped with rich jungle to create an astonishing, polka dot topography. The larger islands are distinguished by rugged coastlines covered with virgin rainforest extending right down to the water’s edge, where nature has carved out a series of coves and lagoons, inlets, caves, and shaded, sandy beaches. If truth be told, the pure, unadulterated splendour of Raja Ampat astounds anyone who ventures the enormous distance to get there, and just recently I was fortunate enough to be one of those venturers.

Until the Millennium, the name Raja Ampat was completely absent from Indonesian travel

OUT ADVENTURE OF BALI

THE LAST PARADISE ON EARTH While the predominant colour in the picture-postcard image of the tropics is blue, Raja Ampat is decidedly green…

brochures. Trailblazing diving expeditions, undertaken by modern-day explorers have since put it on the map, and today Raja Ampat is world-famous as one of the most noteworthy ecological niches on the planet, on a par with the Great Barrier Reef and the Galápagos. Marine biologists have established that the region is home to 70 percent of the known coral species on the planet. Many of the fish, corals and crustaceans that live in these waters are found nowhere else on Earth.

I was a guest on a SeaTrek Sailing Adventure, which took us on a northerly voyage from the West Papuan capital of Sorong to the island of Waigeo and then across the Equator to the iconic islands of Wayag and beyond.

While most of the cruises through Raja Ampat are on liveaboard dive boats, SeaTrek’s activities focus on trekking, snorkelling, swimming, kayaking and paddle-boarding.

Each day, we donned fins, masks & snorkels and explored a below-surface world reminiscent of a living kaleidoscope.

Navigating my way through coral bommies, tables, steeples, fans, and thorny stag-horn thickets, I swam though clouds of damsel fish, gawped at an ornate but venomous lionfish, spotted a huge puffer fish skulking in the shadows, and counted Christmas tree worms galore glued to the brain corals in a whole gamut of colours. So beautiful was this underwater ecosystem that at times I felt like UbudLife 73

I was in a giant aquarium, expecting to swim up against a wall of glass at any moment, with families of onlookers regarding me from the other side.

Above the surface, Raja Ampat presents an extraordinary wealth of exotic bird life, with hornbills, kingfishers, parrots, and five different bird of paradise species including the fabulous red bird of paradise. Our voyage, therefore, took us to the island of Gam in the knowledge that every morning at dawn – during mating season – at the very top of the tallest tree, way up high on a forested ridge, the red birds of paradise come out to perform their elaborate courtship dance.

We set out in the dark, at 5 o’clock on a wet and windy morning, for a slippery 40-minute hike up a steep, muddy track in the hope

that the rain would stop in time for the birds to appear and doing their thing. Happily for us, the sky cleared, the sun came out and so did the birds. We heard them before we saw them, the males using their voices to broadcast their location and entice distant females to come and have a look. Then, silhouetted against the light of the new day, four males entered the canopied arena, their tail wires streaming behind them. Five minutes later, the arrival of two females, distinguished by their lack of ornamentation, sent the males into an ecstatic frenzy, each one lowering his head and erecting his plumes over his back. As the sky got brighter, we were able to see their gorgeous colours – the male’s yellow beak, his iridescent emeraldgreen face, a pair of dark green cushion-like feather pompoms above each eye and a train of glossy red plumes. One of the males postured stiffly before hanging upside down

from his branch. He then spread, fanned and fluttered his wings like a giant butterfly, seducing his prize for us all to see.

The sun was shining brightly when we emerged from the steamy jungle at the jetty from where we had begun our adventure three hours earlier, and we were able to see the enchanting little village of Saporkren, which we had bypassed in the dark. If the birds of paradise live in Paradise, then Saporkren must be the gateway. A big archway marked the entrance to the village, with a cheerful welcome message, and hand-painted images of the birds. The place was idyllic, a quintessential paradise beach with soft white-gold sand, coconut palms, gaily-painted canoes, friendly families, happy smiling children, and pellucid luminousturquoise waters. The final delight was when one of the villagers drew our attention to a

cuscus eyeing us from the top of a fig tree. He was the size of a big pussycat with a pointy snout, ginger face, huge round orange eyes, and a tail long enough to wrap around a branch and strong enough to support his weight. A local woman handed me a banana attached to the end of a long stick‌ It was only 8am, the day had barely begun and yet I had already witnessed the dating dance of the rare red birds of paradise and now I was feeding a banana to a spotted cuscus. Paradise indeed! www.seatrekbali.com

`

BORN TO RIDE by stephanie mee • images stephanie

F

ancy meeting new people, hitting the open road and exploring new places around Bali that are off the beaten track? If so, then the Born to Ride events may be just up your alley.

Formed just over a year ago by local expat luminary Kenny Monet, Born to Ride is a free community group that aims to bring people together to discover new places and experiences that aren’t your typical tourist draws. Open to all ages and nationalities, the group organises scooter and motorbike adventures, weekly social gatherings at various restaurants around Ubud, and the more laid-back Soul Sunday meditation sessions.

Kenny says, “Back in the day there was more of a community in Ubud where people would meet face-to-face (as opposed to on Facebook) and tell stories, exchange info and help each other. In past years that’s become somewhat lost, and I think there is less of a support system for people who want to get out and see more of Bali and learn a bit more about the island, but don’t necessarily know where to go. That’s where the idea for Born to Ride came about” The first Born to Ride bike tour took place in October of last year with riders gathering at a meeting point in Ubud and then making their way up to Kintamani via the lava fields in the foothills of Mount Batur. After a dusty drive through the lunar-like landscape, the riders dined on fresh fish at a restaurant on the edge of Lake Batur, toured around the Bali Aga village of Trunyan, and soaked in the natural hot springs in Toya Bungkah.

Unlike a guided or package tour, the Born to Ride events are completely free to join, and everyone is welcome to tag along, even those without wheels. Kenny says, “If somebody wants to join but doesn’t have their own transportation, they can just ask and usually someone will have an extra helmet so 76 UbudLife

TOURING

they can just jump on the back of a bike.

Sometimes we also have cars follow along.”

Kenny encourages riders to go at their own pace, and he often states that the group is only as fast as their slowest rider. He says, “Although we start as a group, people are welcome to buzz forward if they want, but if we come to a juncture or turn I always stop and wait so that we all go along together. It’s not a race, it’s more of a social event to see places that people may not have seen before.”

Other Born to Ride gatherings have included trips east to Padang Bai and Candidasa to discover little-known waterfalls and beaches, west to Negara to watch the annual buffalo races, and north to Amlapura to see traditional dances at the water palace that hadn’t been performed in over 100 years. For each ride Kenny tries to choose spots where people will not only get to see incredible scenery, but also get a taste of the local culture.

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He says, “I love to see other people seeing places for the first time. That gives me more joy and satisfaction than anything else. If you live here, it all seems to become part of the furniture, but when you see it through someone else’s eyes it becomes almost new again” Kenny is always open to suggestions for future runs, and he welcomes others who want to organise their own runs or events through Born to Ride. He says, “We’re very flexible and open. Born to Ride is not just for any one individual, so there is no hierarchy here. It was created for the community by the community.”

To join one of the Born to Ride runs, social gatherings or meditation sessions, visit their Facebook page at https://www.facebook. com/groups/borntorideubud/ for more details.

RESTAURANTS

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Ayung Resort Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Puri Gangga Resort Banjar Sebatu, Desa Sebatu, Ubud Phone: 0361 902222 www.puriganggaresort.com Puri Sebali Resort Desa Sebali, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 8497553 www.purisebaliresort.com Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 www.copperubud.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com de Warung Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 971465 www.dewarung.com Folk Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056 Kailasha Restaurant Sebatu, Ubud Phone: 0361 902222 www.kailasharestaurant.com

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 Monkey Legend Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0361 981611 www.monkeylegendubud.com NOMAD Jl. Raya Ubud 35, Ubud Phone: 0361 977169 www.nomad-bali.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sayuri Healing Food Jl. Sukma 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080385 www.sayurihealingfood.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81239655905

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com

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SPAS

SHOPS

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

Aura Theraphy Spa Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com

Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com

Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 27997658 www.balihealingspa.com

Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

EWA Oceanic Art Gallery Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 8123 683 5261 www.ewaoceanicgallery.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0811 3882241 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Sang Spa 1 Reborn Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973236 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa 2 Jl. Raya Jembawan 13B, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277222 www.sangspaubud.com Sala Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud AP Beauty Square Phone: 081 353314080 Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Gotama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Gootama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

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Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

GALLERIES

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Phone: 0361 8235151 www.sisibag.com SISI + NANAN Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Hp: 085 1007 65896 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hp: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com

SPORT/RECREATION Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.com

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com

Bali Esa Driver Phone: 081 916194294 www.baliesadriver.com

Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

USEFUL NUMBERS

EAST BALI SECTION

Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com

Ambulance Airport Authority

118 751011

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office Search and Rescue

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Villa Rama Candidasa - East Bali Phone: +6281337611010 www.candidasavilla.com

NORTH BALI SECTION The Hamsa Resort Jl. Air Terjun Sing-Sing, Lovina, Phone: +62 813 3719 4975

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074

Amertha Bali Villas Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 94831 www.baliamerthavillas.com Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

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LAST WORD

, Living other People s Lives Mark Ulyseas

Social media or should one say anti-social media has reached levels of sublime surrealism. Any and everyone has an opinion about almost everything that occurs on the planet. And often they air their views with mindless comments that display a stunning ignorance of the subject. Others respond with their own versions and usually the comments merge into an argument which gets abusive. The most awful words are used. And then there are those who keep posting photographs of themselves in different positions, a habit that some social scientists term as a ‘mental’ disorder.

What is the need to upload photographs on a social media site of a septic sore on one’s foot or of a dying relative in a hospital bed accompanied by a running commentary? Has social media become sadomasochism in cyberspace? A click of the mouse that tingles the extremities and excites the baser instincts…

Could it be that living has now become an endless struggle of making ends meet… and that we have turned ourselves into spectators of the glitzy life of the rich and famous…thus prompting us to use whatever means at our disposal to create a twisted portrait of our life for the world to view favourably?

And what better platform to use than social media, which is free and inhabited with like-minded sadomasochists?

Many among us hope that by projecting our opinions and mug shots on social media that we can attract attention to the point where we can cross over into the rarefied atmosphere of great wealth and/or fame.

However, in this desperate attempt we begin to lose ourselves in others’ lives and unwittingly begin to live other people’s lives. We have become mouthpieces for many a flippant slogan uttered by those we follow mindlessly online. Lots of sound and fury signifying nothing.

So how do we stop living other people’s lives and begin to earnestly live our own with dignity and self-respect?

Perhaps these words from Woody Allen may be of interest.

“My one regret in life is that I am not someone else.”

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

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