Ubud Life 31th Edition

UbudLife NO. 31 • JUNE - AUGUST 2017

guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

BLOOD FOR THE GODS UNFORBIDDEN FRUIT UPGRADE YOUR LIFE LATIN LOVES

SUCIPTO ADI free

EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu, A recent visit to the cool quiet climes of Mount Batukaru made an interesting contrast to Ubud. While this mostly untouched mountain remains pristine, Ubud has seen more change than it needs to.

Her in this very popular city we have more cappuccino and raw food than we need. Ubud is slowly disappearing under the weight of the foreign influences that continue to pour in. Attracted by word of mouth message and by sites like Trip Advisor who recently nominated Bali as “the most popular tourist destination in the world”, there is no chance that the influx will stop any time soon.

Yoga, healing modules, kirtans run by foreigners, cacao ceremonies and tantric rites don’t even begin to touch the mass of influences that Ubud is reeling under. Where is Ubud? Where is Bali in this onslaught?

Yet every now and then I am surprised and delighted to find a huge procession walking down the main road. Barongs, gongs and extraordinary ritual figures parade down the streets attended by hundreds of devout Balinese who seem to be unscathed by the cultural collisions taking place. Is it possible, that apart from a little superficial change, the Balinese remain unscathed and unaffected?

This is my dream, and let us hope that the situation remains so. Change will come, but perhaps more slowly than we think and perhaps some of these spiritual seekers from the west will realize that the Balinese hold the answers to many of the questions that bring here.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Ayu Sekar Bali’s luscious tropical fruit are a visual delight as well as good to eat, try some.

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors ibu kat jenny b ayu sekar rachel love stephanie mee richard horstman publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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UBUD’S LUSCIOUS LATIN RESTAURANTS

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SUTJIPTO ADI

UNFORBIDDEN FRUIT UBUD’S TASTY TROPICAL JEWELS

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THE MAGIC INDUSTRY IN BALI

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BLOOD FOR THE GODS

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TAKE THE PLUNG... BALI’S WORDERFUL DIVE SITES

happenings around ubud There is always so much happening in Ubud – restaurant s opening Exciting new ventures, a new yoga pavilion and the annual fabulous Bali Arts Festival!

Keeping up with all these good things is like a full time job!

BALI ARTS FESTIVAL The 39th Bali Arts Festival is a great way to learn about Balinese culture. It runs from the second Saturday of June until mid July.

What a great way to witness Bali’s wealth of dancers and musicians, puppeteers and performers. Colorful costumes and the best performers from the island conspire to make a wonderful show. Cultural performances from other islands are also on display. Traditional sometimes blends with modern to create new and innovative takes on old themes.

Artisans and artists from Denpasar join with dance troupes from Bali’s eight regions as well as neighbouring islands and some 12 UbudLife

international troupes. Traditional music and gamelan recitals can be enjoyed at the Ayodya and Angsoka Stages while Balinese documentary screenings can be viewed at the Ksirarnawa Auditorium. Children’s gamelan sessions and more are at Ardha Candra Amphitheatre. There are also culinary food bazaars, painting and sculpture exhibitions and handicrafts galore.

June10 –July 8 Open Mon – Sat 10.00-22.00 Location – Denpasar Arts Centre (Taman Werdhi Budaya) Jl Nusa Indah, Denpasar www: http://baliartsfestival.com/ T: 0361 245 294

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PYRAMIDS OF CHI IS FINALLY OFFICIALLY OPEN Located in the verdant ricefields Go for lunch and stay for a gong healing. Guests lie down comfortably in the Sun Pyramid, an exactly scaled down replica of Egypt’s famous Giza Pyramid. Then for the next hour, gongs are sounded in rhythmic patterns which reverberate through the body causing intense relaxation. Stay awake if you can, but it is a challenging job. After an hour, you slowly awaken, feeling relaxed and wonderful. Everyone should try it at least once. The Gong Experience happens twice a day at 11am and again at 3pm. Full Moon and New Moon have very popular evening performances as well.

TIME FOR A COCKTAIL AT BRIDGES NEW COCKTAIL HOUR

Pyramids of Chi 22 - Jl Kelabang, Bentuyung, Ubud T: + (62) 361 9000 717, www: pyramidsofchi.com

Cocktail lovers will be happy to know that DIVINE Bar at Bridges is introducing Cocktail Wednesdays.

Started late May, the weekly event revolves around cocktails and there will be something special waiting each week.

Located below Bridges dining room, the well designed cocktail bar is a cozy hideaway that looks over the river and lush jungle and the old Tjampuhan Bridge which adds a sense of place.

Meet up with friends or a romantic interest and enjoy a great cocktail or two as well as very tempting bar snacks or gastro bites from their own kitchen. Or dine later in the lovely main dining room.

Bridges, by the Tjampuhan bridge http://bridgesbali.com/divinewine-cocktail-bar/ 14 UbudLife

ITALIAN IN AMED Trattoria – anyone who visits Amed will be happy to know that another new eatery is now open. Is it raw? IS it vegan? No! it is Italian – called Trattoria, it is located past Lean looking over a beautiful pristine beach. Open-air style, it offers up a bevvy of Italian dishes including pasta, pizza and other Italian specialties. The local staff are trained by an authentic Italian chef and know how to do their stuff. It is so new (just opened late May) so get there while it’s hot.

Trattoria, Aquarmarine Villas, Amed

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GOLDEN MONKEY Reopens in mid June. Ubud’s favourite Chinese Restaurant, the Golden Monkey will open mid-June after extensive renovations to enlarge the kitchen and make it ready to produce even more delicious Chinese food, with their talented Malaysian Chinese chef.

BATUBARA–EATING ARGENTINIAN One of the flavours Ubud has been missing is a taste of Argentinian but now we can find it at Batubara, tucked in next to the entrance to Arma.

Batubara serves Argentinian which of course, includes plenty of meat. Grass fed steak and free range pork. All the meat is from well cared for animals and organic vegetables – all for very reasonable prices Dishes include empanadas, smoked eggplant with feta and basil, stuffed avacados, luscious charcoal grilled steaks, and some fine chicken and pork dishes. Wines are imported from several countries. Vegetarian dishes are also available.

Open from 6pm – midnight.

A new air conditioning system is to be installed and cosy booth seating as well as the normal tables. All in all it will be bigger and better than before. I can’t wait to try their Peking Duck with pancakes and their delicious Dim Sum again.

Golden Monkey Ubud, Jl Dewi Sita T: 0361 9081842 /0812 3778 3571 E: res@goldenmonkey.com

BALI KITE FESTIVAL Once again, the easterly winds start blowing and Bali’s skies are filled with kites. From small personal home made models, to the big ones, that take a whole team to fly them. July and August sees plenty of competition in the skies and it culminates with the series of big competitions held in September and October. The opening Festival is held from 7-9 July at Padanggalak. The biggest of all, the Bali Kite closing Festival held at Padanggalak on 28-29th October, so there is plenty of opportunity to see these amazing giants take to the skies. The big festivals are accompanied by full ceremony – gamelan orchestras and traditional costume. It is definitely a sight worth seeing.

For more information check Bali Kite Festival, or Sanur Kite Festival on Facebook.

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LATIN LOVES

Ubud’s Luscious Latin Restaurants by stephanie mee • images ayu sekar

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EATING LATIN

L

atin America is home to many different cuisines, each offering unique dishes and flavours. Here in Ubud we have a decent smattering of restaurants representing the diversity of Latin cooking. The next time you’re on a mission for some Latin love in the form of tacos, empanadas or ceviche, these three restaurants are absolute must-trys.

La Pacha Mama The first thing you notice about La Pacha Mama is their dramatic bamboo facade that brings to mind an open-air cathedral sitting proudly atop the Penestanan hill. Head inside and you’ll find more soaring bamboo columns, rustic wooden tables that encourage communal eating, and a life-size horse statue affectionately named Jorge. In case you were wondering, yes you can climb on Jorge to snap your next Instagram selfie.

The menu is also unique in that La Pacha Mama puts a twist on traditional Mexican cuisine with plant-based dishes that are fresh, vibrant and super healthy. Chefs Alejandro and Hiram are committed to serving Earth-friendly fare (La Pacha Mama means ‘Earth Mother’), so they source organic veggies, herbs and fruits from local sustainable farmers.

Start with the Nachos Deli, homemade tortilla chips loaded with meaty berries, rich caramelised onions, avocado mole, bean sauce, melted cheese and jalapenos, or the Buffalo Wings made with

cauliflower cooked sous vide for nine hours and tossed in a smoky BBQ sauce made with 22 ingredients. For mains we couldn’t get enough of the Taco Patron, homemade corn tortillas topped with umamipacked shiitake mushrooms, zucchini and spinach.

The desserts are also enticing, but we suggest ending the meal with one of their Mexican Espresso Martinis made with single malt Japanese whisky, añejo tequila, Bailey’s, coffee liqueur and espresso shaken until silky smooth and icy cold.

And if they’ve got live music on in the evenings, which they quite often do, stick around to try a few more of their legendary libations like the La Margarita or Bloody Maria.

Jl. Raya Penestanan Kelod, Ubud T: 0361 908 0225 www.la-pacha-mama.com

Taco Casa In 2010, Taco Casa became the go-to Mexican spot in Ubud, and today they’re still garnering rave reviews for their consistently good fare, quick and efficient service, and great value for the money.

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Besides their Ubud locale in Pengosekan, they’ve also got venues in Seminyak and Canggu, but their Ubud location is the only one that delivers. Score!

The menu at Taco Casa is pretty straightforward with all your Mexican favourites like nachos, tacos, quesadillas and burritos. What sets them apart from your average taco joint though is their attention to quality. All the veggies are organic whenever possible, washed in purified water, and chopped daily in small batches.

The beef they use is tenderloin only and the chicken is breast fillet. Plus they make their own taco shells, tortillas and sour cream.

If it’s light bites you’re after, try the Quesadillas filled with your choice of veggies, beef, chicken, shrimp or just cheese and served with house made pico de gallo salsa, sour cream and guacamole. The Fiesta Salad is also a good bet as it comes packed with beans and veggies like shredded romaine lettuce, carrots, cabbage and corn, all drizzled with a tangy and slightly spicy adobo honey dressing. Protein add-ons are optional.

For the seriously starving, the 8-Layer Burrito is a massive creation with your choice of veggies or proteins, red rice or cilantro-lime rice, pinto or black beans, cheese, lettuce, guacamole, pico de gallo and sour cream. No joking, this thing is nearly the size of your arm. Not satisfied with Taco Casa’s suggested fillings?

You can also create your own custom burrito or tacos.

Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud | T: 0361 2422 2357 www.tacocasabali.com

Pica South American Kitchen Blink and you might miss Pica nestled into a tiny space on Jalan Dewi Sita, but this is definitely one place you don’t want to miss.

Here Chilean owner and chef Cristian Encina draws on the culinary heritage of his homeland as well as those of the neighbouring countries 20 UbudLife

to create authentic South American dishes that are made with fresh local ingredients expertly prepared, beautifully plated, and bursting with flavour.

As you peruse the wine list, which features bottles from Chile, France, Italy, New Zealand and Australia (no hard-to-swallow swill here), the server will set you up with warm house-baked sourdough bread and a bright chimichurri sauce. Then we insist you try the Ceviche Classico, a colourful combination of raw market fish like mahi-mahi or snapper marinated in a tangy leche de tigre sauce with lime, thinly sliced red onion, coriander, yellow chiles and the juice from the fish.

The main courses are just as enticing with offerings like the Arroz Meloso, Peruvian style risotto with pumpkin and spinach, and the Bife Ancho, an Australian rib-eye steak served with chimichurri, beef jus and seasonal veggies.

However, if you really want to indulge, go for the Cerdo con Manzana, confit pork belly that comes as a slab of melt-in-your-mouth pork meat topped with golden crispy skin and served with a red wine apple puree, roasted sweet potatoes, pickled shallots, watercress and Chorizo crumble. Yes, you read that right– pork garnished with pork. Muy delicioso.

Jalan Dewi Sita, Ubud | T: 0361 971 660 www.picakitchen.co

UPGRADE YOUR LIFE - LEARN A NEW SKILL by stephanie mee • images ayu sekar

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e’re already well into the Year of the Fire Rooster, which astrologers tell us is a good year for awakening, bravery and embracing new challenges. If you’re looking to upgrade your life and learn something new, Ubud has a ton of fun classes that will teach you helpful skills you can use on a daily basis. the Divine Wine & Cocktail Bar where there will be five bottles of wine on offer that are normally not available by the glass, accompanied by canapés and acoustic music.

Jalan Raya Campuhan, Ubud, Bali T: (+62) 361 970 095 www.bridgesbali.com

Painting and Drawing Bahasa Indonesia Whether you’re just in Bali for a holiday or settling down for the long-term, it is well worth it to learn a bit of the local language. Cinta Bahasa is the most highly regarded language school on the island, and they offer courses for complete beginners all the way up to advanced language classes for business. The classes are fun and light-hearted, the instructors are warm and welcoming, and the combo of reading, writing, listening and speaking exercises will have you bantering with the locals in no time.

Jalan Raya Sanggingan , Ubud, Bali T: (+62) 812 3916 5005 | www.cintabahasa.com

Wine Tasting Masterclass Looking to expand your knowledge of grape varietals and vintages? If so, make your way to the wine cellar at Bridges Bali every Friday at 5:30pm when the sommelier will present a variety of wines for you to sample as he shares background info, tasting notes, and food pairing tips. You can also join the Divine Fridays happy hour in 28 UbudLife

Explore your creative side at the Bali Center for Art and Creativity where you will find classes, courses, workshops and seminars on everything from Rudolf Steiner Colour Theory to experimental oil painting to art therapy. Although BCAC does have set courses on specific dates, many people opt to design their own program so they can focus on the areas they are most interested in. Get in touch with them to find out more about one-on-one art instruction, small dynamic group classes, kid’s classes, family classes and programs for local and visiting schools.

Jalan Raya Andong, Ubud, Bali T: (+62) 812 4652 7362 www.baliartclasses.com

TRANSFORMATION

Balinese Arts and Culture If you want to delve deeper into Bali’s unique culture, there is no better place to see it in action that at the hands-on cultural workshops at ARMA Museum. From Balinese batik, gamelan and dance to woodcarving, offering making and Hindu astrology and numerology, ARMA offers a wealth of workshops that explore the history, philosophy and daily practices of Balinese culture. The classes run for two to three hours and are open to singles, groups and families of all ages.

Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud, Bali T: (+62) 361 976 659 www.armabali.com

Raw Food Classes Join Chef Arif Springs on a journey of healthy raw and vegan food at one of his fun and informative cooking classes at Fresh restaurant at Taksu. Taking place every Wednesday and Saturday at 1pm, these four-hour courses will teach you the basics of holistic principles and raw food cooking techniques, plus give you the chance to create and sample your own raw food dishes. At the end of the class you will also get a recipe book to take home with you.

Reservations must be made at least two days in advance.

Jalan Goutama Selatan, Ubud, Bali T: (+62) 361 971 490 www.taksuspa.com

Make Your Own Silver Jewellery Bali is a prime centre for silver, which means there are tons of jewellery makers here producing exquisite silver pieces. One of our favourite spots to pick up some bling is Studio Perak, where Pak Ketut uses traditional Balinese silversmithing techniques to create organically inspired designs. He also teaches half-day courses where you can create all kinds of silver jewellery from scratch using your own unique design. The course runs for thre e hours, and at the end of it you can take home a custom handmade piece.

Jalan Hanoman, Ubud, Bali T: (+62) 361 974 244 www.studioperak.com UbudLife 29

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SUTJIPTO ADI by richard horstman • images jill alexander

I

n 1987, thirty-year old East Javanese artist, Sutjipto Adi, exhibited paintings at TIM Jakarta Cultural Center, in his second solo show.

Sophisticated and highly articulate, Adi’s visionary compositions revealed an extraordinary talent that was to capture the attention of the Indonesian contemporary art world.

Combining meticulous drawing with realism painting techniques, Adi’s symbols, figures, and forms, rendered upon a framework of geometrical designs, come alive in compositions that are mysterious, yet futuristic. Within his works the visual information often resonates out from one central point - distinct lines emanating from the canvas’ core - while other lines, both vertical and horizontal, create grids of triangular, fragmented portions. What appear like kaleidoscope visions are in fact, perfectly balanced compositions achieved through the execution of a clever and systematic, visual formula.

Otherworldly scenarios reveal abstract forms, spherical, planet like objects, and enigmatic symbols floating within interstellar backdrops.

The artist often depicts himself in various stages of life: from the embryonic, to the baby, and then the adult. Adi’s paintings are insights into the enigmatic nature of life and its place within the order of the cosmos.

“My work reflects my quest for meaning in the perfection of human life. They simply mirror life itself, while underlining the fact that there is much more going on than meets the eye,” Adi says.

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WHO’S WHO

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Gifted with unique ability, and a powerfully inquisitive mind, Adi, who was born in 1957, was raised in a multi-religious family in Jember. His mother a follower of the Catholic faith, his father a Buddhist, while his brother a Muslim. Religion is one of the significant forces that shape the Indonesian cultural discourse, yet spirituality is the key dynamic within his life journey, and how he constructs his worldview.

“From an early age I practiced my own techniques of exercise and meditation, yet it was not a traditional style of yoga, rather a personal act that achieved strong feelings.

Later I chose to bring the Buddhism doctrines into my life. Not because I believed it to be a superior religion,” to the contrary, the artist said, “I was allowed to feel a personal sense of harmony.”

After studying art at the Indonesian Fine Art School, Adi then continued on at the Indonesian Fine Art Academy (ASRI), in Yogyakarta, Central Java from 1977–1981. “In 1986 I relocated to the Island of the Gods, sensing the ‘spirit of Bali’ as a safe and fertile realm for my continued creative development, and stimulus.”

Living in Bali proved to be a perfect environment for the artists’ deep and reflective nature. His stoic work ethic balanced, while being immersed within the 36 UbudLife

Balinese culture, and the creative energy that island is internationally rekown. In 1991 Adi’s third solo exhibition was held in Ubud. He continued to exhibit consistently in national and international group exhibitions, and with leading galleries in Jakarta.

Along with other artists during the 1990’s Adi was one of the forerunners of a new realism movement that was evolving within the Indonesian contemporary art world.

Photography became a crucial part of his technique. A special part of his process, however, is to travel, experience, be still, and observe.

“Meditation not only gives us the light of insight, but also the power for expansive change,” Adi says. “By having faith in our spiritual journey we both may learn and will be provided the tools to steer us through the physical and non-physical labyrinths that encompass us all.”

A strong sense of innovation has driven Adi’s artistic development, he incorporated digital art collage, and the use of pencil in his works well prior to his fellow contemporaries. His depiction of iconic characters such as John Lennon, the Dalai Lama, and Buddhist monks as central subjects in the compositions occurred well before it became a national trend.

His process of self-discovery is reflected in the changing colours Adi has utilized during his career. His work is witness to his transformation of spirit; his darker colors during his younger days reflect an unsettled conscience in the process of self-analysis.

Lighter, and brighter colors mirrors the easing of internal tensions during his personal growth.

Unlike other Asian cultures, Indonesian art does not have a tradition of drawing.

of Indonesian contemporary art draws it techniques and themes from outside and the Western, Adi is unique within the canons of Indonesian art.

If you travel abroad to see the finest museum collections of modern and contemporary art, such a technique cannot be found.

In his depictions of the human form Adi deliberately presents both the old and the young; a tiny baby contrasted with an elderly monk, or his young son positioned along with himself. While its important to include the iconic leadership figures, he too includes the other ‘heroes’ - the normal, everyday people, and the poor, who endure, and soldier on through life.

Lead, charcoal, pastel and coloured pencils, for the past two decades, have become Adi’s exclusive mediums of choice. The technique he chooses is not only the application of line to give structure and form, rather a method influenced from photographic images, to build form via the subtle, and painstaking use of line to suggest elements of skin tone, facial and body features.

“Within the mind of the photographer, second-by-

second, essential elements come together,” Adi says.

“Composition, lighting, character, and sensitivity for the object, all fuse within an instance, to capture a special moment. ” Photography has had an unparalleled impact on modern and contemporary realism art, as well as Sutjipto Adi’s. His drawing technique bursts into life with the inclusion of bright colours and hues from coloured pencils and pastels. While the majority

“My intention is to present these figures as archetypes of faith,” Adi says. The metaphors he conveys are an essential message about life itself.

“The youth of today’s world require good role models, fine examples of behaviour, moral courage, and strength to successfully ‘navigate’ the journey of life.”

As he has matured Sutjipto Adi’s paintings have become less esoteric, and easier to read, yet always ‘speak’ of the human spirit. They are profound, and important messages of hope.

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Spirit of Bali words and image ayu sekar

These Bali Aga men are fighting a pandan war in a village near Tenganan.

In June it is possible to visit this well preserved village and witness for yourself!

BLOOD FOR THE GODS

by rachel love • images neal harrison

Every year, within a neat walled township in East Bali, an extraordinary theatrical fight takes place… utilising prickly pandanus leaf whips...

T

he setting is Tenganan Pegringsingan; a remarkable 700-year-old village, hidden in a valley four kilometres north of Candidasa and seemingly as old as the hills. Here, the residents practice a time-honoured lifestyle based around ritual and ceremony, bound by strict ‘adat’ customary laws to maintain purity. Tenganan is one of Bali’s original pre-Hindu settlements and a stronghold of native traditions. The villagers are the Bali Aga people, descendants of the original Balinese who resisted the rule of the post-Majapahit kings, fiercely safeguarding and maintaining their own culture through the conviction that they are descended from the gods.

Within the village walls, ceremonial longhouses, rice barns, shrines, and communal pavilions including the imposing ‘bale agung’ – where 50 UbudLife

the council of elders, known as the ‘krama desa’, makes its decisions – have been meticulously positioned in accordance with long-established beliefs. Three broad parallel cobbled avenues run north to south, ascending towards the mountains, with narrow lanes running east to west to form a grid. Single-storey dwellings line both sides of the main street, their doorways and windows enhanced with whimsical flair. Pink-andyellow-dyed roosters holler from their bamboo cages and lazy dogs lie draped across steps, while buffaloes and gangs of piglets roam freely. The Bali Aga society is communal, with a distinct social organisation. All of the village property and surrounding fertile farmland belongs to the township as a whole.

The villagers do not actually work the land; instead they lease it to sharecroppers from

CULTURE

other villages and receive half the harvest.

This leaves the Tenganese free to engage in artistic activities such as weaving, dancing, and playing their sacred, iron keyed, gamelan ‘selonding’ music.

Where the belief systems of other Balinese Hindus focus on the Trinity of Brahma, Wisnu and Siwa, the people of Tenganan worship Indra, the God of War, as their ultimate godhead, and faithfully adhere to a calendar of complex ceremonies to honour him. No wonder, then, that many major religious festivals in Tenganan involve a ritualistic battle between the young men of the village. This includes a mud war to acknowledge a village member’s entrance into adulthood, as well as the ‘Mesabatan Biu’ battle to elect the chief of the village’s youth organisation, during which the young men throw bananas – yes bananas – at the candidates. The month-long ‘Usaba Sambah’ Festival, meanwhile, incorporates a ferocious fray known as ‘Perang Pandan’ or ‘Mekare-kare’.

The fight – actually a series of duals – takes place over two days in June or July of each year, and is staged upon an elevated stage in the central avenue, accompanied by much merriment and laughter together with the intense martial sounds of the selonding music. Each combatant is armed with a

15-centimetre-long ‘sword’ comprised of a bundle of pandanas leaves, edged with tiny sharp thorns, while warding off his attacker with a tightly woven ‘ata’ vine shield. Each dual lasts only a few seconds and there are no winners and no losers because the objective is to spill blood as an offering to the gods.

After the battles, the combatants’ wounds are treated with a stinging mixture of alcohol and turmeric, leaving no scars. On the first day of the Mekare-kare, the unmarried maidens of the village ride creaky wooden ferris wheels in a ceremony that resembles the old Vedic rites.

A foot-powered turning platform, operated by the men, propels a series of wooden swing seats occupied by the girls, who swing high above the ground for hours on end. The turning symbolises the descent of the sun to the earth.

During festivals such as this, the women of the village wear the famous hand-woven double ikat textile, known as ‘Geringsing’.

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Tenganan is the only place in Indonesia where this double weaving technique is practiced, and visitors can watch the women performing the weaving process, each using a small bodytension loom with a continuous warp. Here, the intricate pattern has been tie-dyed into both the warp and the weft threads before the fabric is woven, and great skill is needed to align and loosely weave the two into the desired pattern; a single mistake can spoil months of work. An intense and powerful energy is also woven into the textile enabling it to protect the wearer from sickness, evil vibrations and ill-fate. The cloth is believed to be the inspiration of Batara Indra, the Creator who, when contemplating the moon and the stars and the heavens, was called upon to teach the women of Tenganan the intricate ikat patterning. Hence, at the Mekare-kare, the women and young girls of Tenganan look particularly resplendent in their ritually significant geringsing cloth.

Despite being resistant to change, the people of Tenganan have embraced the tourist economy and the fortress-like village has become a living museum, with many of 52 UbudLife

the houses also functioning as shops and workshops where expert craftsmen and women perform their centuries’ old skills. The villagers are also accomplished basket-makers and calligraphers; traditional ata vine baskets are laid out in neat rows upon the ground to dry in the sun, and artists display their carved lontar palm books. It’s not possible to stay overnight in Tenganan but visitors are welcomed at any time of year during daylight hours in exchange for a small cash donation.

Often overlooked is the village of Tenganan Dauh Tukad (which means 'west of the river'), approached via the same road that leads to Tenganan Pegringsingan but with a turn off to the left. This village was once part of the original Tenganan but became separated by a river following a flood. Quieter and much less visited, Tenganan Dauh Tukad is similar to Tenganan Pegringsingan but not bound by such strict customary laws.

Dates for this year’s Mekara-kare war have yet to be confirmed, but are likely to be mid June in Tenganan Pegringsingan and mid July in Tenganan Dauh Tukad. Visitors can look forward to a truly astonishing spectacle.

TOOTY FROOTY

Unforbidden FruitUbud’s tasty tropical jewels by jenny b • images ayu sekar

Fruit lovers will be in heaven in Ubud, where there’s a bounty of divinely delicious, nutrient-rich tropical fruit to choose from – some you might never have heard of before. If you’re an early riser, head to Ubud Market before sunrise, camera and taste buds at the ready, ready to be awed by mountains of fruit. Marvel at the sheer variety of colours, textures, tastes, shapes and sizes – and savour the menu of exotic tastes as thy slice open a sample for you to try.

During the day, buy from roadside stalls where out-of-town farmers sell their freshly harvested crops from the back of their pick-ups.

Here’s a number you must try!

PAPAYA You’ll see papaya trees everywhere you go in Bali. Their clusters of pendulous pearshaped fruit hanging from the stem start out green and ripen to a golden yellow. Cut them open, scoop out the black seeds with a spoon (discarding the skin), and pop cubes of buttery yumminess into your mouth.

Better still, squeeze the juice of a lime over first to add a dash of tartness. Unripe papaya is delicious in a Thai-style salad, or in a traditional Balinese lawar dish.

MANGO (MANGGA) I always look forward to the start of the mango season in September – it’s one my favourite fruits and the intense orange flesh never fails to lift my spirits. Cut it in half lengthways, remove the flat stone, score the flesh and eat straight off the skin – the

sweetness is sublime. It’s delicious blended into smoothies, or add yoghurt to make a mango lassi. Slice the flesh for a dash of tropical colour in salads; and if you can’t wait for a ripe one, make a green mango salad.

MANGOSTEEN (MANGGIS) The Queen of Fruits (legend has it that Queen Victoria offered a knighthood to anyone who could bring her one to eat) the mangosteen is pure joy in a perfect sphere. Squeeze open the purple skin with your fingers to reveal the segments of soft white antioxidant-rich flesh, and enjoy the sweet-and-tart, melt-in-yourmouth taste of the tropics.

RAMBUTAN No fruit looks quite so exotic as the rambutan.

These bright red spheres covered with soft green hairy spikes are aptly named as rambut means ‘hair’ in Bahasa Indonesia. (Incidentally you’ll see signs for ‘potong rambut’ , literally

‘cut hair’ i.e. hairdressers, on the streets). Pick up a bunch from the market, select one (checking for ants) then peel the skin away with a squeeze of your fingers, and you’ll find a white, lychee-like globe of succulent deliciousness. Rambutan trees are a glorious sight in season, covered with bright red clusters like Christmas tree decorations.

CUSTARD APPLE (SILIK)

SNAKE FRUIT (SALAK)

Called the King of Fruit and prized throughout Southeast Asia, durian is an acquired taste. Love it or hate it –there’s no middle ground. You’ll smell it long before you see it; the pungent odour that keeps this fruit banned from most restaurants, hotels and planes. It smells like over-ripe Camembert … or smelly socks! Within its thorny outer shell are compartments of creamy yellowish lobes, each containing a large seed. Buy a durian from a vendor and ask them to split it open to eat on the spot. The more timid may prefer to start softly, e.g in durian ice cream.

(Some enterprising company has even started producing durian flavoured condoms!)

Louis Vuiton could kill for a leathery texture like this! The scale-like, easy-to-peel skin of this decidedly reptilian-looking fruit protects crunchy lobes of light tan flesh that has a unique sweet-with-sour-notes taste and a dry texture akin to an apple that feels slightly floury on the tongue. The fruit grows in clusters nested within palm spines at the base of a small palm tree.

DRAGON FRUIT (PITAYA) Though not a native of Bali, this cactus fruit is now widely available. Its fabulous deep-pink skin with green ‘scales’ (hence the name) adds a splash of colour to Bali’s already-sizzling fruit palette. Inside, the black seed-dotted flesh is either white or a ravishingly reddish purple, and tastes like a cross between a kiwi fruit and a pear. Slice it in half and eat it with a spoon, or peel off the skin, slice into cubes and eat with your fingers.

Jackfruit (nangka) Shaped like a durian, the jackfruit is the largest tree-borne fruit on the planet – a single fruit can weigh up to 100 pounds! The myriad lobes of dense, milky white flesh within the outer spiny shell are sweet on the tongue and find their way into traditional desserts.

Unripe jackfruit, when cooked at leisure, has a deepening flavour and stringy texture like pulled pork, making it popular as a meat substitute for vegetarians. Don’t forget to try a jackfruit curry!

56 UbudLife

Another exotic looking fruit, this small sphere covered with raised bumps looks a little like a miniature artichoke. Press where stem meets the fruit and open in two halves, then use a teaspoon to extract the sweet custardy pulp.

DURIAN

COCONUT (KELAPA) It’s impossible to leave Bali without at least tasting a coconut. Indonesia is the world’ biggest producer of this versatile fruit, and you’ll see coconut palms towering over the island’s landscapes, groaning with the weight of the green globes clustered under the fronds at giddying heights. You’re bound to taste the meat and milk in curries, kue (local cakes) and desserts. Better still, buy a coconut, get the vendor to deftly make an opening in the top large enough for an eco-conscious bamboo straw, then drink the refreshing nectar from within. (You can then break open and scrape out the inner lining of coconut flesh with a spoon – delish.) But for the ultimate tropical island experience, take a walk into the rice fields, find a farmer, watch him defy gravity in scaling a nearby palm tree with his bare hands to harvest a few, then sit with him and enjoy your fresh harvest.

ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

58 UbudLife

TIPS

pura protocol

Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously.

Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

UbudLife 59

Fresh as A daisy at Fresh B I G by ayu sekar

60 UbudLife

T H I N G S

I N

S M A L L

P A C K A G E S

GETTING FRESHE

M

y first visit to Fresh was long overdue. For ages I have been hearing good things about this quaint little spa at the side of a small river on Jl Dewi Sita and I am happy to say that al those good things are true.

While Ubud is filled with teeny spas, many no more than a room or two with massage tables, although quite often they provide an excellent massage. Fresh is something more.

Fresh packs a big product in a small package.

Professionalism greets you at the door and stays with you through the treatments. Just warm, friendly and natural giving plenty of what you want. From the outside you would never guess that whatever you want is available in its surprisingly roomy interiors.

With the new renovations completed, there are rooms hidden away, with purpose built areas for reflexology, massage rooms, a beauty therapy area, and even a hairdressing salon.

Having been suffering from flu I decided to try the reflexology and their Far Infra red spa treatment to ease the symptoms. I was led into a room with four huge, comfy, cushiony chairs and stools looking over the shady street. Therapist Rai did my treatment and I couldn’t fault her. Everything was perfect, and as I sank into a state of deep relaxation, I started wishing I had gone for the warm Stone Massage instead. Never mind. Forty blissful minutes later, it was done and I was ready for the FAR Infrared. FAR Infrared helps you to lose weight, relax, relieve pain, increase circulation and purify your skin and it also helps with detoxification so it seemed perfect.

Tucked away in your own private cubicle, the sauna is big enough for a cosy twosome, or a single. The private shower is right next door. After forty minutes of Infra red, I figured my health was on the move.

Upstairs at Fresh, is a salon for hair treatments and facials. Run by two western women, the spa offers most everything you would hope to find in a spa, with comfort for easy pampering as well as some serious work. Facials of various kinds are on offer, including therapeutic treatments and even eyelash extensions (Japanese knotted silk) can be had, although their top business is their Mani-pedis! They are reputed to be the best in town and with a full range of Opi colours to choose from, it is sure to be true.

The Mani Pedis are conducted in the main salon where you can watch the passing parade as you start looking good. It is relaxing as well as entertaining and it is all at an oblique angle so you still enjoy privacy as you gaze out the picture windows.

Up the wooden staircase, hidden in another secret corridor are the private massage rooms where you can enjoy from a menu of massages. The warm stone massage, is probably the best.

Tip: if you prefer a quieter time, choose the mornings for your treatment. Not only will you find it more private, but you will also enjoy a “morning price” discount! Afternoons and evenings are the busiest times.

UbudLife 61

Ayung Resort

Nacho Mama

Putri Bali Spa

Kopi Kat

Palm

Warung Alami

Bintang Super Market

Wayan Karja

Terracota

Dalem Temple

Folk, Nomas FolkPool Gardens

Bali Healing Museum Puri Lukisan Griya

Warung Merta Sari

Copper Kitchen & Bar

Sri Ratih & Spa La Pacha Mama

Bridges Divine

Skin Spa

Villa Beji

MA S O K W AYA H

U

NI

Yin

Nani Spa Kayma Spa We’are

Kebun

Warung Sopa

Bambooku

Sang Spa

SenS Yonne Sayuri

White Box

Red Lotus

UMA SOK WAYAH

HighwayTM Neka

Studio Perak

BPD Wr Siam Biah Biah Soma

Nirmala

Milano Spa Down To Earth Cendana

EWA

Skin Bolero Fresh

Kopi Coffee Sensatia

Nomad

Ubud Sari

A SUB

UUK M K J A

S

Gunung Merta Bungalow

Ubud Horse Stables

Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Pilar Batu

Garden Sopa

Sala Kafe Topi

Taman Beji Spa

Sisi

Arma Museum Arma Rsort Kafe Arma The Sunti

Greenfield Buddha Bowl Goddess Jaens Spa Panorama Pizza Bagus

Sari Api

BSF The Pond Cocoon

Monkey Legend

Biah-Biah+

Studio Perak

Studio Perak

Kunci de’ waRung

ISLAND OF BALI

Villa Beji Indah

Putri Ubud Spa

Sang Spa

UBUD

UBUD LOCATION Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

UbudLife 63

THE MAGIC INDUSTRY IN BALI by ibu kat • images jill alexander

B

ali is indeed a magical place and many of us have experienced its many dimensions of mystery.

From ancient times, the Balians have been guided by the gods, to aid humans through mysticism and ritual here.

64 UbudLife

HEALING Balians or traditional healers play an important part in the local culture by treating physical and mental illness, removing spells and channeling information from the ancestors. The Balian is an instrument of divine healing, and the client enters a covenant to receive this healing with respect, reverence and humility. There are about 8,000 Balians practicing in Bali, outnumbering medical doctors.

But in the past few years Balians have become a tourist attraction, their role reduced to just another item on the itinerary to be sandwiched between a yoga class and a sunrise trek.

I Made Surya, who is named in Lonely Planet On-line Travel as the leading authority on Balinese healers, is disturbed by this casual approach to a sacred practice. “Often these tourists who demand to be taken to a healer don’t even have problems to be solved; they look on it as entertainment.”

Anthropologists and scholars have been studying Balians for almost a century but the book Eat, Pray, Love focussed international attention on these men and women of magic for the first time.

Since then Surya has seen an escalating demand to be taken to ‘a healer’, even by people who had nothing wrong with them.

Demand has created an industry. If tourists want to visit healers, then healers they shall have. “It’s a good

business,” Surya told me.

“Ubud has the vibe. It’s become a stage for commercial enterprises delivering 'traditional healing'.

Both Balinese and foreigners are getting into the act.

There’s a proliferation of English-speaking Balinese and Westerners wearing traditional UbudLife 65

Balinese dress claiming to be healers. They have websites and Facebook pages. There are plenty of bogus Balians out there. Genuine Balians don’t advertise, draw attention to themselves or even like to be addressed as a Balian, as this can invite jealousy.”

A visit to a genuine Balian will be very public, with all the other clients watching closely. The healer may make magic, create fire, use mudras, draw patterns on your body, spit wads of chewed herbs on your skin, apply scented oils, poke you with sharp sticks and/or give you a deep tissue massage or manipulation that will be very painful indeed.

And it’s a serious matter. If you decide to go, do your homework first. “There are many types of healers who work on specific problems: broken bones, broken hearts, mental disorders, removing black magic -- so choose one that’s appropriate for you,” advises Surya. “Expect that it will be a process involving several treatments. It’s not an instantaneous process, so don’t expect to be healed on your way to the airport.

“Bring an offering to a healer, with a donation of appreciation inside. At the end of the day, the healer dedicates this offering to his/her spirit in the family temple; be generous. Give your offering with your right hand. Balians have the same status as priests so show respect by dressing in a sarong and temple scarf. Of course if you are seeing a bone/ muscle healer you need to wear loose, comfortable clothes.”

Quite a number of Balians won’t see foreigners at all, because they feel it’s too difficult to communicate the subtlety and nuance of their work across the language and cultural barriers, even with a translator.

There are four kinds of Balians. The first kind is a Ketakson who acts as a channel between

the client and God. Ketaksons evoke the spirit of a dead person, and pass on information to the family about what kinds of offerings are needed for cremations and other ceremonies.

They can also channel living people to give guidance or locate missing objects. Most of the female Balians are Ketakson.

The Pica/Paica Balian is a medium who may not be a formal student of magic. This kind of Balian receives physical objects which appear and disappear spontaneously and are used during healing sessions. The Balian Usada is a person who either has the intention to become a Balian or may receive divine knowledge during a severe illness. These people decide to further their knowledge by studying the lontars (sacred texts) and with recognized healers. The lontars, thousands of ancient texts in Kawi script, contain information on ethics, anatomy, traditional herbs, meditation, yoga, tantra and other subjects. These Balians also study both white and black magic, which are very similar except for the intention of the practitioner.

The fourth kind of Balian combines all of the above. Many may appear crazy or psychotic, or hear voices, while the wisdom is entering them.

If you want to visit a genuine Balian, you’ll get much more from the experience by learning something about the complex process. Surya, a scholar of the Hindu religion, sometimes conduct Healing Arts Study Tours. He explains the different types of healers, the mystical aspects of the practice and the offerings, and translates. “I am not a Balian referral service to tell you who you should see in Bali,” he clarifies. “I don’t take visitors to fortune tellers, astrologers or palm readers; it is not part of our tradition. The integrity of the system needs to be protected and people need to shed their preconceptions. This is a very complex religion.”

LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

Labuhan lalang

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Pe

a B e a ch

Antur

Lovina

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

BA

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Temple

A

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Lake

Gobleg

Tambling Mund

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

ST R

Airanakan

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk

Sanda

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Yehkuning

Perancak

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Munduk

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

DISTANCE [in kilometer]

Belimbing

Ampadan

BANGLI BESAKIH

Balia

CANDI DASA

Balian Beach

DENPASAR GIANYAR

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

GILIMANUK

IN

GOA GAJAH GOA LAWAH

O

N

Tanah

E

GUNUNG KAWI

D

Tib

S

IA

AMLAPURA

C

N

OC

SEMARAPURA KUTA

C

EA

LAKE BATUR

N

LEGIAN LOVINA AIRPORT

INT

NUSA DUA SANUR SINGARAJA TANAH LOT UBUD ULUWATU

Padang Sulub

Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA Banyuning

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

k

eg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

Sebatu

Penebel Perean Pitra

Sulahan Singarata

C

h ac

N

DU

BA

San

ur

G

Be

ac

Ferry to N usa Pe nida

ch

h

NUSA PENIDA

us

a Dua Beac

h

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50 km

TAKING THE PLUNGE...

Bali’s wonderful dive sites by rachel love

S

pending too much time in Bali without lerning to scuba dive is like beng given a beautifully packaged birthday present but never breaking through the wrapper to uncover the magic beneath the surface.

Bali is an ideal location for learning to dive, launching a diving career, or diving for pleasure among some of the world’s finest tropical reefs. The water is warm and the marine life is abundant. Bali’s reputable dive schools and operators provide facilities, equipment and tuition for every PADI and SSI course from kids’ programmes and beginners’ dives to the highest recreational level. Beginners have the option of a test run – an introductory taster to the mysteries of diving, known as a ‘Discover Scuba’ – before they need think about doing the full-blown Open Water Diver course. The advantage of this is that it requires no time in the classroom but instead allows dive novices to have a brief experience of something so amazing, that it is practically guaranteed they will want to return.

In Bali, you can explore a shipwreck in Tulamben, discover pristine corals and maybe some manta rays or a

ADVENTURE mola-mola at Nusa Penida, find some colourful reefs and multi-hued fish at Amed, Candidasa and Padang Bai, and see some gigantic gorgonian sea fans at Menjangan National Marine Park.

Nusa Penida, Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Ceningan are a trio of islands located just 23 kilometres off Bali's southeast coast. The water here is fairly cold but often astonishingly clear, prolific with fish, gorgeous corals, and the occasional turtle, as well as some grey reef

sharks and silver-tip sharks, manta rays and mola-mola. Most of the diving at Nusa Penida is drift diving and you need to be aware that the currents here are not always predictable.

The channel between Nusa Lembongan and Nusa Penida is a renowned breeding ground for the mola-mola or oceanic sunfish, a mysterious large, flattened fish with elongated dorsal and ventral fins, and a lumpy growth instead of a tail fin. It is the world’s heaviest known bony fish, with an average adult weight of 1,000 kg. Divers come from all over the globe to witness this marvel, which can be seen July-November. Nusa Lembongan’s white sand beaches are fringed by a beautiful reef, which supports its own eco-system and has been declared a protected marine park, containing large expanses of coral gardens.

Bali’s most famous diving site is around the wreck of the Liberty at Tulamben on the northeast coast. This US navy cargo ship was sailing in the Lombok Strait in January 1942 when it was torpedoed by the Japanese.

The ship was towed to Bali and beached.

Shockwaves from the 1963 eruption of Bali’s highest volcano, Gunung Agung, broke it in

half and pushed it 40 - 50 metres offshore to its present location. The wreck is only 30 metres below the surface at the deepest point, and 50 percent of the structure is undamaged. It is the habitat of numerous underwater species, including the rare pigmy seahorse and ghost pipefish. Black tip reef sharks, dolphins and whales bask in the nearby waters and the stark volcanic coastline borders a perfect coral garden with a 70-metre drop off where the conditions are easy.

Amed is the collective name given to a string of villages on Bali’s most easterly point. Here you will find a variety of sites stretching from Jemeluk Reef to Bunatan Point to Ghost Bay, which is popular for muck dives. At Bunutan Point there is a large school of garden eels, along with other macro subjects, plus schooling barracudas and other pelagics.

Access to the different sites is either by jukung (local fishing boat) or by shore entry.

Due to cooler temperatures and currents, the sites off Candidasa and Padang Bai on the east coast provide some of the most fascinating and diverse diving in Bali. Blue Lagoon at Padangbai, while bare of reefs, is rich in a variety of marine life, some not found in other areas of Bali. The other sites are surrounded by healthy and abundant reefs that attract a myriad of marine species from schools of sweetlips and bannerfish to sharks and other pelagics. A group of small rocky outcrops – Mimpang, Biaha and Tepekong, off the coast of Candidasa, offer some of Bali’s best diving, and this is where you can spot sharks. Gili Selang is a sheltered reef home to cuttlefish, trevally, pygmy seahorses, moray eels, gorgonians, and hard branching corals.

The tiny Menjangan Island, located in the northwest corner of Bali and part of the West Bali National Park is famous for its lack of currents, its wall-diving, and the great visibility, which extends to 50 metres at 72 UbudLife

particular times of the year. Here you can view some of the best soft corals and sponges, and Bali’s greatest diversity of gorgonian fans – which attract huge numbers of small reef fish including brightly coloured parrot fish, yellow back fusiliers, powder-blue surgeon fish, damsel fish, puffer fish, unicorn fish, barracuda and silvery jacks. The walls plummet to depths of around 60m so there is always a lot to see.

You can also enjoy the 40-metre-deep Anker Wreck. However, as Menjangan is protected from the cold currents coming in from the

open sea, there are only rare sightings of larger fish.

The scenic dark sand beach at Pemuteran, on Bali’s north coast, leads to one of the Island’s best dive sites with great dropoffs just one kilometre offshore. The area is calm and free of strong currents and waves. The reefs, known as Pura Tembok, Close Encounter and Napoleon, are dominated by soft corals, sponges and sea fans, with numerous fish including silver fusiliers, blue dancers, damsel

fish, and occasional manta rays. Three manmade underwater gardens can be seen at Pemuteran – one presenting a four-metrehigh temple gateway, the second one featuring large stone Buddha statues, and the third showcasing statues of the Balinese gods and goddesses, all of which are providing new homes for corals and other marine life.

So, what are you waiting for?

Take the plunge!

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OUTREACHE

Yayasan Solemen is Changing Lives Forever Creating Smiles, Giving Hope and Healing by ine wynn

W

ere you ever so poor that you had to walk 10 kilometers to school every day… barefoot? In Bali, many children still do and their plight was made famous by the original Solemen, those madcap people who walked barefoot all over Bali in sympathy with those kids in order to raise awareness and money. Since their inception in 2010, the Solemen have morphed into an organization with a serious mission that reaches far beyond their original goal. They created a great outreach program to benefit the poor, the disadvantaged, the disabled, the homeless and the marginalized in Bali. Their goal is to alleviate the misery of extreme poverty by bringing hope and solutions; their focus is on individual cases that remain hidden from public view and hence are separated from easy access to medical treatment; they reach people who fall through the cracks and are not helped by the existing network of charitable organizations and government programs. Their cases – affectionately called SoleBuddies - are children and adults with pernicious diseases, acute and untreated medical problems, severe malnourishment or living in abominable and substandard conditions; those who need crucial medical intervention, ongoing therapy or medications not always available in Bali.

They help people such as Ni Luh in a remote village in Gianyar, a young girl with severe cerebral palsy who spent 13 years of her life lying on her back without proper medical care. Today she is in a wheelchair, receives therapy and has a more stimulating and caring environment. Or 14-year old Komang in Ubud who suffers from renal failure and whose inoperable eye tumor had to be

removed to alleviate excruciating pain.

Solemen certainly made a difference to a 45-year old man who was caged by his family due to mental health issues, a deplorable but often occurring method of dealing with such situations. After two years of ongoing treatment, holistic care and medical supervision, Made is free from his cage.

Sixteen-year old Wayan suffers from Epidermyosis Bullosa, an extremely painful skin condition also known as butterfly skin that causes the skin to erupt in painful sores and blisters comparable to third-degree burns. This disease also caused his fingers and toes to fuse together until the Solemen team arranged plastic surgery to separate his webbed fingers. Despite this debilitating condition and his hand deformities Wayan works as a craftsman and artist making imaginative lamps from lollipop sticks and creating beautiful drawings.

These and other stories are compelling and an excellent example how Solemen intervention can weave wonders for afflicted families.

Solemen has made itself a reputation for finding the needy people “who fall through the cracks” and are not helped by any other available programs, private or governmental.

Many of them are difficult to find, mostly because Balinese culture dictates that misery, disease, disability and poverty should be hidden from the outside world.

Solemen’s great Outreach program continues unabated. The roving, fast acting team of volunteer doctors, nurses, therapists and social workers has been canvassing the remote areas of Bali to find the hidden misery UbudLife 75

of untreated disease, disability, extreme poverty and destitution. Their case load has mushroomed to 940 SoleBuddies and new cases are added every month.. As a result the team’s resources are critically strained.

The team operates on a shoestring budget; they nevertheless work wonders by focusing their efforts on providing effective and targeted help where it will have the most impact. Consequently they are making a vast difference in the lives of those they reach.

Solemen Foundation, the most visible and trusted charity in Bali, funds medical assessments, treatments and interventions.

Yet they are not the recipient of government funds or assistance from large institutional donors. Instead they currently fund their work by donations from caring and empathic individuals and through partnership with small businesses and corporate supporters.

That corporate support can have a farreaching impact is amply illustrated by the partnership with Bali Dynasty Resort in Kuta and the Royal Tulip Saranam Resort & Spa in Bedugul whose CSR charity programs are now helping to support Solemen’s outreach program.

Under this initiative needy children receive monthly sponsorships which cover their medical, nutritional or educational needs. The program also covers medical assessments for children suffering from a wide range of medical conditions, provides wheelchairs for disabled children and adults, prostheses for amputees, and basic household necessities for the desperately poor.

CSR programs, especially those focusing on charitable and philanthropic engagement with the community in which they operate, are gaining popularity and are becoming an important part of a hotel's "doing well by doing good" business strategy. Guests contributing through a voluntary opt-out $1 per stay donation feel good that such funds 76 UbudLife

will create social and health benefits for the community and are happy to patronize companies that give back with both respect and patronage.

All of those Solemen efforts need sustainable funding to be able to continue the momentum.

As the workload becomes heavier and heavier, daily costs rise in tandem. Thanks to donations, fundraisers and volunteers they manage to continue to do what they like to do best: 'CHANGING LIVES FOREVER'.

#Whogivesabuck? …a quid, a bob, a fiver…?

Solemen’s catchy hashtag is all atwitter on social media and gives the charity and its activities a wider reach and recognition. It’s a campaign we hope will entice people to chip in a buck, a quid, a bob, a fiver or whatever loose change is rattling in your pocket.

Pocket change can be a lifeline for our SoleBuddies who are destitute, ill, disabled and malnourished or have no easy access to medical care.

By passing the buck to us, we can continue our quest to make a significant change in the lives of those in need through our Solemen Outreach program. We operate on a shoestring budget yet we book wonderful results because we focus on providing help where it is most needed and will have the most impact. Your generosity will create smiles, give hope and change lives forever.

We love it when the buck stops here.

With grateful appreciation, Robert Epstone & the Solemen Team

http://www.solemen.org https://www.facebook.com/IndonesiaSoleMen https://twitter.com/solemenindo

RESTAURANTS

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Ayung Resort Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com Puri Sebali Resort Desa Sebali, Tegallalang, Ubud Phone: 0361 8497553 www.purisebaliresort.com Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 www.copperubud.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com de Warung Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 971465 www.dewarung.com Folk Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Folk Pool Gardens Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 Monkey Legend Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0361 981611 www.monkeylegendubud.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sayuri Healing Food Jl. Sukma 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080385 www.sayurihealingfood.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81239655905 Yonne Cafe & Bar SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com

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SPAS

SHOPS

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

Aura Theraphy Spa Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com

Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com

Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 27997658 www.balihealingspa.com

Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

EWA Oceanic Art Gallery Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: +62 8123 683 5261 www.ewaoceanicgallery.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com

Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0811 3882241 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Sang Spa 1 Reborn Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973236 www.sangspaubud.com Sang Spa 2 Jl. Raya Jembawan 13B, Ubud Phone: 0361 9277222 www.sangspaubud.com Sala Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud AP Beauty Square Phone: 081 353314080 Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

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Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

GALLERIES

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Hp: 085 103235151 www.sisibag.com SISI Jl. Sriwedari No.12, Ubud Hp: 085 100765895 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hp: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com

SPORT/RECREATION Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.com

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com

Ubud Horse Stables Phone: 081 339585666 www.ubudhorsestables.com

Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

USEFUL NUMBERS

EAST BALI SECTION

Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com

Ambulance Airport Authority

118 751011

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office Search and Rescue

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Villa Matanai Jasri Beach - East Bali Phone: +6281337611010 www.villamatanai.com

NORTH BALI SECTION The Hamsa Resort Jl. Air Terjun Sing-Sing, Lovina, Phone: +62 813 3719 4975

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074

Amertha Bali Villas Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 94831 www.baliamerthavillas.com Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605 UbudLife 79

LAST WORD

Defragmentation Mark Ulyseas

Defragmentation of the mind every few years helps one to discard the garbage collected from social media and intercourse with others. It rearranges one’s values and helps fine tune the senses. It reduces static (inane collection of dialogues with all and sundry) and jettisons grudges.

So how does one do this?

Here is a checklist that may help you: 1. Time out: Remove yourself from your comfort zone of home, family and friends. Go away to a place where Nature and its creatures are in abundance (not humans).

2. Change diet: Eating vegetables instead of non- vegetables helps cleanse the body. Drink lots of water.

No alcohol. No Smoking. No drugs of any kind. No electronics of any kind. No books. No cameras. No TV. This is called self-discipline.

3. Maintain silence as much as possible. And the best way to do this is to take long walks in forested areas or along a river or beach. This will help you to listen to the many wonderful sounds of Nature. It will have a curative effect on your bruised senses.

4. Write down all your worries (don’t cheat) on a piece of paper, then burn it. And while doing so tell yourself that you are getting rid of negative energy.

5. Pray by all means but don’t recite the standard prayers. Speak to your God in your mind, like you would talk to a trusted friend in person.

6. Go to sleep early. Rise early.

7. Every morning before you rise from your bed take a small mirror and look into it. Concentrate on your eyes. The first few instances would be distracting because you would be pandering to your vanity. But after this you will begin in earnest. Soon, very soon,

you will observe that there is someone looking back at you. Someone living within you. This, as some say, is your soul. It will be a sobering experience.

You will then see how other people see you and not how you think other people see you. You will get a perspective of yourself. And it is from here that the defragmentation of your mind begins.

8. Remember: There are no gurus, no special exercise regimes or lectures or massages or bilious green health drinks or sex or communal hugging or colon cleansing. It is just you confronting yourself and dealing with it, in silence.

The effectiveness of this lies in whether you lie to yourself or not.

Life is for living, not existing.

The question is - Do you want to Live or merely survive like a wounded animal?

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

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