Ubud Life 32th Edition

UbudLife guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

THE LEGACY OF

ARIE SMIT

NUNAS BAOS: HOW TO MAKE A GOD TALK UBUD SPAS AN EXTRAORDINARY DAYTHE TREE OF LIFE

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EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu, Welcome to our 32 issue of Ubud Life, our little magazine which has grown in stature if not in size! We try to bring you cool reports about Greater Ubud and beyond, and as Yoga is already so well covered here, we try to bring a balance by giving you stories about Bali’s amazing culture, and stories that will hopefully amuse and entertain.

The Ubud restaurant scene is, shall we say, exploding! In one little street in Pengosekan, no less than three or four new restaurants have appeared. There is now a Greek, an Argentinian, a new Thai, and several coffee shops to compete with the very popular Mexican, Turkish, even American and how many pizzerias or Italian places – all of which inhabit basically the same short stretch of road.

It’s a miracle when you think of what we had just a few short years ago. If we count all the eateries in Inner Ubud now, we will be busy for a month, just trying to try them all. Even trying to review the best of them is like a full time job!

We also visit some arcane traditional ceremony in the wilds of Karengasem - where is that you ask? Well it is the delightful traditional regency that inhabits Bali’s far east. Filled with interesting villages and, old style architecture, the ceremonies hark back to waktu dulu (yesteryear) and who knows where they originated.

It is always rewarding to take a step off the very well trod path or paths of the mainstream and see what Bali was really about before the tourist influx. I promise, you wont be disappointed.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Ayu Sekar This little boy is getting ready for his coming of age ceremony in Dauh Tukad, Karangasem.

They all wear makeup and look gorgeous when the crown headdress in added.

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors jenny b ayu sekar rachel love stephanie m jean couteau richard horstman publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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NUNAS BAOS: HOW TO A GOD TALK

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THE LEGACY OF ARIE SMIT

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JUST SHOPPING AROUND

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AN EXTRAORDINARY DAY

LITTLE GEMS - SMALL BUT BEAUTIFUL SPAS IN UBUD

THE TREE OF LIFE

happenings around ubud

TAKSU MOVES ON Taksu the fabulous spa come Yoga, come healing centre, restaurant, lifestyle choice is now adding another string to their bow with the newly opened Taksu Galleria. Situated in Jalan Hanoman the purpose built Galleria is still in its early days with shops selling beautiful lifestyle wares and a functioning restaurant on the second floor. When it is completed, it will house a spa and grooming salon as well as more shops selling any number of irresistible wares. In the meantime, you can stop by and enjoy a cappuccino or lunch, looking out over the urbane tree lined street before checking the beautiful wares up for sale.

Taksu Galleria Jalan Hanoman www.taksuspa.com 12 UbudLife

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The painters of Pengosekan have a long history, some of which is reflected in this exhibition. Influences from Walter Spies can be seen as well as many traditional Pengosekan style paintings. Curated by Made Budiana the exhibition includes paintings by 35 of pengosekan’s finest artists including depictions of birds, (Pengosekan style), landscapes, mythical scenarios and some with a departure towards more abstract works. Try to stop by and enjoy a little of Bali’s beautiful art history.

BALI ADVENTURE REACHES OUT AGAIN High up in the hills above the Taro Elephant Park nestling into the foothills of Kintamani is the brand new Adventure Tours home in the hills. Here you will find the home of delicious Mason Gourmet Chocolate, which will be available in all the Bali Adventure venues. Located in a beautiful new bamboo structure that looks out across a forested valley is the new Koko Bambu Restaurant – the place to enjoy a delicious lunch or a cocktail overlooking the pool after a ride through the jungle with a Mason Jungle Buggy. The special electric buggies are created to be harmonious with the wildlife and guests can drive through miles of specially created trails traversing lush jungle. Book a trip with Bali Adventure and enjoy the new thrills that await in the jungle. www.baliadventuretours.com www.masonjunglebuggies.com

PAINTINGS IN THE FOREST A new exhibition of Balinese painting is on display right in the midst of the Sacred Monkey Forest! Close to the entrance on the Nyuh Kuning side, or a short walk through the forest from the main entrance, the exhibition is housed in a big gallery right in the forest.

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Painting Exhibition until late October 2017. Mandala Suci Wenara Wana in the Sacred Monkey Forest.

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HAPPY BIRTHDAY TO YOU ALL Several of Bali ‘s and Ubud’s venerable institutions celebrate significant birthdays this year. Agung Rai’s Museum of Art (ARMA) celebrates twenty years of all art and all things Balinese. Take a walk through the beautiful grounds and visit a Bali that is fast giving way to the inroads of Modernity. Exhibitions and other special events may happen so keep a look out for dates.

ARMA - Jalan Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Ubud’s Casa Luna is celebrating its 21st Birthday – almost a quarter century of serving up some of the best coffee in town! Their Bar Luna downstairs serves up an eclectic mix of cool music, jazz, movies and more. Don’t forget to visit while in Ubud.

Casa Luna - Jalan Raya Ubud. www.casalunabali.com And Rysohi, everyone’s favourite Japanese restaurant also celebrates 20 years of great food and delicious music.

While the everchanging Ubud venue may be a couple of years less, it is already a venerable part of the town’s food scene. All the Japanese favourites are there including super tempura and agadashi tofu as well as perfectly cooked fish of varying varieties.

Ryoshi - Jalan Raya pengosekan next to Monsieur Spoon www.facebook.com/ryoshibali Happy Birthday to you all and may you continue to serve up some of Ubud’s finest.

UBUD WRITERS FESTIVAL Now in its 15th year, the Ubud Writers Festival is coming again from 25th til 29th of October. It has become one of Ubud’s most popular institutions and many famous names have passed through the portals.

Amitiv Ghosh, Pico Iyer, Michael Ondaatje, author of the English Patient, Tony Wheeler, the Lonely Planet creator, William Dalrymple, author of many wonderful books on Indian life and history, Robyn Davidson – the Australian woman who rode her camels across the Australian desert and many more have attended in the past.

Centred around Indus restaurant in Jalan Raya Sanggingan, venues will include Casa Luna, and Neka Museum, as well as Taman Baca – a complex of joglos and venues that have grown up next door.

This years guests will include the usual surprises as well as a few stalwarts.

The Ubud Readers and Writers Festival – Ubud. www.facebook.com/ubudwritersfest

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As part of his daily routine, the old priest approaches the double doors of the cabinet and opens them. As the dutiful performer of the rites of "his" temple, he looks after "his" gods every day, at this time of day, dressed as ever in a white sarong and a white udeng headdress.

Since the time of his calling, as did before him his father and his father's father, every day Mangku Lingsir "cleans" and serves faithfully the 18 UbudLife

the gods of his temple. He is their "guardian", the village mangku priest.

Mangku Lingsir is greeted by the protuding eyes of Dewa Mas, the magical Barong beast, Banaspati Raja, the Lord of the forest and tutelary God of the village. The mask is currently "dormant", awaiting the full moon and the resurgence of its spiritual power,

CULTURE

NUNAS BAOS HOW TO MAKE A GOD TALK by jean couteau • images ayu sekar

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t is early morning in the village of Abian Gombal. The building Mangku Lingsir is heading for has the eerie look of a puppet house; it has tall wooden poles with double doors in front and a thatched roof. It is the gedong penyimpenan, the "cabinet", where villagers house the "sleeping God" himself. It is just one of the shrines from the various other puppet-house shrines (pelinggih ) in the village temple.

when the god himself will come down from heaven, shortly "inhabit" his mask and then "talk" to his followers (mepajar) through the medium of dance. Having purified the village, he will then return to his heavenly abode (ngluhur), and not visit again before Tumpek Landep--an important Balinese festival day--, when there will be three days of dance, prayers and offerings in his honour.

The old man's gaze passes over the mask. As he raises his broom to sweep the cabinet, he notices something strange about the mask. On the God’s left ear is a big hole - the leather has been bitten to shreds. Jero Giling has eaten off the god's ear. Master Rat has eaten off the Barong's ear! Is it an omen? wonders the old man. Why the Barong, and why the ear? Trembling, he closes the doors UbudLife 19

and rushes to the bendesa, the chief of ritual affairs of the village, and reports the event. "The Barong's ear has been eaten away", he blurts, unable to conceal his emotion. “Master Rat has eaten the god's ear!! It is an omen. The people have to know".

Soon all the priests of the various temples of the village are there, among them the men of knowledge and the men of power. They assemble in the village hall. Even Cokorde Gede Penarukan, the prince, is present, befitting the seriousness of the event. All have inspected the damaged Barong's ear. And all are unanimous about one thing: something has to be done, quickly. They must "ask” the god to “talk" (nunas baos ).

Everyone has heard of Pan Ceper, the balian who lives in the banjar to the East of the River (banjar Dangin Tukad), and everyone knows that he knows how to make the god talk. He is well-known, and many of the locals have hired his services to communicate with a dead grandfather before his cremation or to know the "real" cause of a disease. Pan Ceper, they concur, would be the best balian peluasan (medium) to make the god talk.

Pan Ceper readily accepts, but this time he will not "ask from the rice" (perform the trance) at home as he usually does for individual consultations. Considering the seriousness of the situation, he will go to the village temple and ask for the god's "explanation" (nunas baos) at the shrine of the Barong itself.

At the appointed time, the entire village is there, huddled in a circle behind Mangku Lingsir and Pan Ceper, who are sitting cross-legged in front of the shrine. Offerings have been prepared on the ground: a purifying peras, some ajengan food, and more importantly, a pasepan fire to channel the god’s descent from the heavens, and a daksina offering to be the god's repository during his short visitation.

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Mangku Lingsir first wafts his hands over the offerings, addressing the niskala (intangible) world; then he slowly mutters, "Pekulun , Oh God, Lord of the village of Abian Gombal, we come to you to beseech a favor from you; we who are only the dew (damuh) of your invisible being." A person’s soul is deemed to be made of a drop of water (titisan) from above the mountains, where ancestral deities dwell.

As he drones on, Pan Ceper places his hands and face above the flaming fire (pasepan). He stays in that position for a while, slowly inhaling the scented smoke. Then his body starts shaking, and he says, his voice wavering, "Oh, my sons from Abian Gombal, your village has sinned. It has allowed impurity to disturb my last visit. I ask you to cleanse the place with a big Resi Gana offering". Having uttered theses words he passes his head again over the fumes and comes out of the trance as quickly as he entered into it.

The villagers then realized that the god must have witnessed an act of impropriety (salahang batara). Before long, they were able to identify what it was; but it was not an act of malevolence. They recalled how a couple of young lovers had behaved inappropriately during the last temple festival: it was suspected that they had kissed somewhat too intensely at the end of an Arja opera performance.

That was why the Master Rat had eaten the barong's ear; he wanted to show men the wrath of the Barong god.

For the next few days the village of Abian Gombal was busy in preparation for the forthcoming Resi Gana exorcism. A Brahmin high priest was invited to officiate.

Subsequently, the Barong god had its ear repaired and has been sleeping quietly ever since. Master Rat does not disturb him anymore.

Order reigns again in the little world of Abian Gombal.

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WHO’S WHO

The Legacy of Arie Smit (1916 – 2016) by richard horstman

During an August 2016 seminar at Ubud’s Neka Art Museum, a gathering of over 100 senior members of the Balinese art community paid homage to the legacy of the Dutch postmodern colourist Arie Smit (1916-2016).

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resent at the event were an enthusiastic group of academics, museum owners, leading artists, teachers, art lovers and friends. These symbols of the Balinese art world, gathered together to pay obeisance to this iconic painter, who left his distinguished mark in the regions art history.

Renowned for his vibrant landscape paintings and scenes of Balinese village life, Smit is a much-loved artist; his work forms part of collections in Indonesia, and throughout the world. Characterised

by rapid movements with dense mosaics of color, his work allows only scenic images to emerge in abstract forms, Smit’s compositions resemble an impressionistpointillist style, and have been dubbed “Poems of Color.”

The third of eight children of a trader in cheese and confectionery, Smit was drafted into the Netherlands army, sent abroad and stationed with the topographical service in Batavia, now Jakarta. He first set foot in the Dutch East Indies in 1938. Working as

lithographer Smit developed his graphic technique while occupied on engraving relief maps of the archipelago.

Etching Balinese mountains onto maps ignited his desire to visit Bali. Previously he studied art at the Academy of Arts in Amsterdam.

In 1942 with the outbreak of World War II he was imprisoned by the invading Japanese army, before being shipped to Singapore, Thailand, finnaly to Burma where he forced in to a labour camp. In 1950 Smit returned when the Dutch UbudLife 29

acknowledged Indonesia’s sovereignty after the revolution of Independence (1945-1949), becoming an Indonesian citizen. He settled in Ubud in 1956. Enchanted by the tropical light and landscape he roamed throughout Bali, reputedly moving house 36 times. Smit became the most important stimulator of painting on Bali, post Second World War, after the influences of other iconic foreigners Walter Spies (1895-1942) and Rudolf Bonnet (1895-1978).

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“The Balinese trust more in their feelings than which meets the eye,” said seminar speaker Suteja Neka, founder of the Neka Art museum, long time friend, and Smit’s art dealer. “Smit’s unique skill was in capturing the potent invisible elements of Bali in his dazzling colourful verve.”

“Smit had a different way of seeing Bali’s landscape compared with the other Western artists of the 1930’s-1950’s era,” said art observer, Indonesian Art Institute (ISI) lecturer, curator and artist Dr. Wayan Kun Adnyana. “Bringing a western perspective, similar to fauvism, through his personal interpretation of colour became the language and entity to explore and communicate Bali’s tropicalnature.”

While in Bandung, West Java, Smit became interested in, and studied in depth children’s art, so when he arrived in Bali he was qualified, ready to try out what he had learnt. Conscious of the need to teach gently, and not overwhelm his young pupils, he would suggest, rather than direct his pupils on what or how to paint . The opportunity came in 1960 when Smit was wandering through the countryside, nearby his Campuhan house, and he saw some young boys drawing in the earth. Taken by the quality of the raw, yet simplistic images, he invited them to visit his studio.

“Smit began sharing art materials with, and teaching young boys in the village of Penestanan, near Ubud.

This was the beginning of the “Young Artists Style”. At its height there was more than 300 practitioners,” said

international artist and ISI Iecturer Wayan Karja, who was born in Penestanan in 1965. “He helped transform the village, and prosper economically; poor farmers turned into painters. Not only was he an art teacher, Smit was a father figure to the village as well.”

The “Young Artists Style” was fresh and exciting; 60’s Balinese psychedelic pop art that emphasized colour, the denseness of pure decoration, with a strong graphic sense.

Smit did not attempt to influence the style of boys work, only the subject matter of village life. At his home studio he was careful to keep his paintings out of sight so they were never copied.

During the tourism boom of the 1970’s the genre became enormously popular.

Smit’s own work comes in a wide range of formats, from small postcard sizes, to works of 1.5 meters or larger. After the 2008-2010 Indonesian contemporary art boom that witnessed overinflated prices for up and coming artists, local art collectors shifted their focus to Indonesian modern art. Paintings by the old masters became popular, some of which were considered as undervalued.

In 2011 the market realised a record price for the most expensive work sold at auction

by Smit at the March Larasati Singapore sale. “Balinese Village and Farmlands” sold for close to 5 times its estimated price at a high of US $ 124,000.

At Christie’s Hong Kong Asian 20th Century Art Sale, May, 2015, Smit’s Pura, sold for just over US $ 207,000.

Nowadays many of Smit’s works sell for modest prices within their estimates and under US $4,000. The Smit connoisseurs however, are very specific about their choices with some willing to compete bidding the prices up, determined to secure their desired trophy works. The Arie Smit Pavilion was opened at the Neka Art Museum in 1994 to display his works and those of contemporary Balinese artists, here you will find over 40 of Smit’s finest works.

Believing that a painter’s style was, in short, his personality, Smit’s oeuvre reinforced his claim, reflecting traceable changes and developments over time. His aesthetics created a greater position for Bali within the context of Indonesian art.

Arie Smit spent his final days lying peacefully in bed at home in Ubud, despite his failing eyesight his mind remained clear. Famed for his “broken colors” style, his passing is a monumental loss to the canon of Southeast Asian art.

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de’ waRung Modern Balinese, Indonesian, Asian, Mexican, and Western Twist

Restaurant, Bar & Grill

Address: Monkey Forest Road, Post Code 80751 | Phone: +62 361 971465 Fax: +62 361 975188 |Web:www.dewarung.com de_warung

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Little Gems

small but beautiful SPAS in ubud

by stephanie m

Small can be beautiful and hidden away in Ubud’s backstreets and byways are some cute little spas and beauty places. They may not be as grand as those at the fancy hotels but they deliver.

Here we bring you some of the best little gems. Try and you may get a pleasant surprise.

SKIN Established in 2011 by two Balinese sisters who spent years working in spas overseas, SKIN is a small but spectacular spa focused on organic treatments like relaxing and invigorating massages using pure essential oils, anti-ageing and antioxidant facials, manis and pedis, and some of the best waxing services you’re likely to find on the island.

The attention to detail here is superb, as all of the therapists are certified and highly trained, the equipment is always sterilised, and the products they use are of the highest quality like Sukin natural skincare products from Australia, Ole Henriksen botanicals, and O.P.I. nail polish.

Their location on Jalan Goutama is the original, but they also have a second, slightly larger locale on Jalan Sanggingan.

Jalan Goutama No. 24 Jalan Raya Sanggingan No. 36 T: (+62) 361 975 615 www.ubudskinorganic.com 36 UbudLife

SRI RATIH SPA Sri Ratih Spa is set in the lush gardens of Sri Ratih Cottages, but outside guests are more than welcome to chill out at the spa and indulge in a wide variety of wellness treatments.

Make your way to the spa’s gorgeous wooden veranda overlooking the padi fields and the friendly staff will set you up with a welcome drink and a spa menu. Take some time to go over the menu because they’ve got so many great treatments, each designed to improve a particular aspect of your body and mind.

Our favourites include the Shirodhara, an Ayurvedic treatment where they gently

pour heated essential oils over your forehead to relieve fatigue, insomnia and stress, and the Warm River Stone massage with smooth heated stones and fragrant ginger oil to improve circulation and stamina.

Jalan Campuhan No. 1 T: (+62) 361 975 638 www.sriratih.com

UBUD SPAS

BALI HEALING SPA Centrally located on Jalan Raya Ubud just in front of Casa Luna restaurant, Bali Healing Spa is easy to miss amid the chaos and traffic of the main road, but it is definitely worth keeping an eye out for because this sweet little spot is a sanctuary of tropical plants, natural building materials like bamboo and stone, and soothing spa treatments administered by staff trained in a wide variety of Eastern and Western techniques. You can opt for body scrubs, facials, manicures, pedicures and many different types of massages including Balinese, Lomi Lomi, Shiatsu and Abyhanga, but we suggest the Heavenly Four Hands Massage, which includes two therapists incorporating a unique blend of five different massage types.

Jalan Raya Ubud | T: (+62) 361 973067 | www.balihealingspa.com

BALI BOTANICA DAY SPA Bali Botanica Day Spa has been around for ages, but they seem to keep getting better and better every time we visit. The focus here is on Ayurvedic treatments that draw on ancient Indian healing techniques to purify and balance the mind, body and spirit. Try the deeply relaxing signature Ayurvedic Chakra Dhara treatment, which involves pouring warm herbal oil on the chakra points and using soothing strokes to eliminate toxins, increase circulation, and relieve pain and stiffness. They also have a fabulous full-day package that includes the Chakra Dhara massage, a body scrub, flower bath, facial, hair cream bath, and a lovely two-course lunch at Bridges Bali.

Jalan Raya Sanggingan T: (+62) 361 976 739 www.balibotanica.com

GAIA HOLISTIC The professional healthcare practitioners at Gaia Holistic offer a huge range of wellness services that you just won’t

find at most spas around town. Think acupuncture, craniosacral therapy, colonic hydrotherapy, lymphatic drainage and oxygen therapy.

However, you can also pop in for a simple deep tissue massage or some reflexology if that’s more your style.

Gaia Holistic also offers detox retreats that run from three days up to 14 days and include detox juices, yoga and meditation, as well as personalised services and activities tailored to your unique needs and goals.

Jalan Raya Sanggingan T: (+62) 361 975 119 www.gaia-holistic.com UbudLife 37

PILAR BATU GALLERY

Presenting fine art quality of paintings and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi ADDRESS: JALAN MADE LEBAH, UBUD, GIANYAR, BALI | PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE: 62 81 23980044 EMAIL: WAYANSUARMADI75@GMAIL.COM | WWW.PILARBATU.COM

VILLA

BEJI INDAH UBUD • BALI

Spirit of Bali words and image ayu sekar

Just Shopping Around by jenny b • images jill alexander

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o your stay in Ubud is coming to an end, your bags are packed, and you’re ready to head home. But wait – what about those small gifts you wanted to find for friends and family. And don’t you deserve some last-minute treats too? You’ve already maxed out your luggage allowance, so small and light is a necessity. Here are some cute shopping ideas.

YIN – jewelry for the Soul The first must-do-more-than-window-shop place is Yin – Jewelry for the Soul. Yin’s three lavender-clad boutiques on Jalans Dewi Sita, Hanoman and Monkey Forest sit comfortably in Ubud’s landscape of yoga centres, enlightenment workshops and raw food retreats.

The delicate silver, gold-plated and brass pieces are inspired by nature, the earth, religious symbols and spirit guides. The Jewelry for the Spirit collection, for example, echoes ancient symbols, gods, and goddesses, and reflects the healing properties of gemstones used in the designs.

Yin’s Canadian designer and long-term Bali resident Joanna Witt really walks the talk with her ‘What goes round comes round’ business mantra. Her collections with a conscience will nourish your soul as well as support some amazing community initiatives in Bali. Buy a beautiful Balinese ‘Om’ charm, and $2 goes to support Bumi Sehat, the amazing natural birthing centre for Balinese women. Your purchase o from the Karma collection will contribute $2 to Pelangi School’s scholarship programme for Balinese children. And 100% of sales of Mule Jewels goes towards buying materials for the re-entry silvermaking skills programme at Kerobokan Prison, created with Bali Nine inmate Si Yi Chen. His Taoisminspired designs include bracelets and pendants featuring the four Chinese mythological guardians of the compass, worn for protection as well as for life.

I rarely return to Europe without a few Mantra Mandalas, which make wonderful gifts for special people in your life. Among my favourites is the Ganesha Mantra pendant – the god of new beginnings and remover of obstacles…and there’s always room for a bracelet inscribed with “Om Nama Shivaya” (salutations to Shiva, personification of consciousness).

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UBUD SHOPPING

Studio Perak Studio Perak is another must-visit place for jewellery, for leisurely or last-minute shopping. Ketut Darmawan applies traditional Balinese silversmithing techniques to create contemporary designs playing with silver and precious stones in simple shapes drawn from nature. In his two shops (on Hanoman, and Jalan Monkey Forest – both easily identified by their turquoise facade), you’ll find a treasure trove of silver jewellery – all at incredibly reasonable prices. Bamboo, ferns, leaves, and flowers adorn pendants, bracelets, rings and earrings in the Nature collection. Circles and swirls shape the hipster-chic Bohemia series. And appealing to Ubud’s spiritual seekers, the Jewelry for the Spirit offers everything from Om and lotus mandalas to exquisitely crafted Buddha, Shiva, and Saraswati pendants.

Ketut’s popular silversmithing courses are highly recommended for those with half a day to spare. As one Trip Advisor reviewer recently enthused, “nothing you can buy will feel as personal and

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powerful as making a piece of silver jewelry all your own….that (you’ll) be able to prize forever.” So if you have three hours to spare before your departure, you have time to learn the basic skills and make an awesome ring or pendant to your own design, under expert guidance, all in air-conditioned comfort.

Classes take place every day from Monday to Saturday, and run from 9am til noon.

Sugar, or Island Spice Sea Salt scrubs? Or silky-smooth body milks with tamarind and green tea? And the heavenly range of body butters – a luscious base of shea butter, raw cocoa butter, virgin coconut and other oils, enriched with different essential oil blends such as lemongrass and mandarin, geranium, chamomile and lavender, or – my personal favourite – th e gorgeous Cleopatra’s Rose.

Sensatia Botanicals

Every product is made in their factory in the small fishing village of Jasri on Bali’s east coast, where the local Balinese employees are empowered as shareholders in this visionary enterprise. So every purchase you make isn’t just a sensational (and sensory) souvenir of your Ubud sojourn; it enriches and empowers the islanders who have made you so welcome!

If you still have room in your luggage, head to the top of Jalan Monkey Forest, to where the intoxicating scents of Bali emanate from Sensatia Botanicals. One of Bali’s international brands, Sensatia produces a glorious range of high quality soaps, skincare, beauty and wellness products – all hand-made from 100% natural ingredients sourced across the archipelago.

And the poetic names! Who could resist those delicious 25g and 125g square-cut soaps in heady herbal blends like Seaweed and Bali lime, and Bali Cinnamon and Cloves? How about Coffee and Cacao Brown

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Sisi accessories OK, perhaps you indulged too much at Sensatia, so time to make a detour to Jalan Sri Wedari where, after a pick-me-up infusion at cult coffee house Seniman Studio, you can pop across the street to Sisi. This cool boutique oozes a simplicity-as-chic, zenmeets-60s-pop-art design aesthetic, so it should be no surprise that the creative force behind this popular accessories brand is a Bali-based Japanese designer. The place is full of cute bags hand-crafted from cotton, linen and canvas including contemporary batik (wax resist) fabric commissioned in Indonesia, and colourful block prints from India – think quirky prints of cats and elephants, flowers and polka dots. Sturdy and durable, with all manner of pockets and compartments, a Sisi bag is perfect for carrying extra purchases.

The same fabric is crafted into a range of accessories, such as face masks (useful in Ubud’s traffic), slippers and purses.

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HI JILLO FOOD DRINK COCKTAIL IMAGES PLEASE 54 UbudLife

UBUD EATING

Ubud’s Best Hangover Cure Spot by stephanie m • images jill alexander

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Folk Ubud Two things about Folk Ubud that need to be said straight off: Obscenely good comfort food and plush day beds by the pool. These guys recently opened a gorgeous pool and garden space behind their funky cafe where they offer all-day eats next to the pool.

Ensconce yourself in one of their curtained cabanas and order a fresh coconut to get the electrolytes flowing, then dig into healthy or hearty dishes like the Dragon Fruit & Pineapple smoothie bowl, Avocado Feta Toast with poached eggs, or their to-die-for Soft Shell Crab Burger. Feely cheeky? Finish your meal off with a Blueberry Martini or Spicy Mango Margarita.

Jalan Monkey Forest T: (+62) 361 908 0888 www.folkubud.com

hey say Ubud is no party town, but we beg to differ.

From glasses of vino at Bridges to craft cocktails at No Mas and late night DJ and dance sessions at CP Lounge, there are more than a few places where you can let loose in the Bud. But where do you go the next day when you’re feeling the aftermath of a big night out?

Rather than toil away in misery in bed, grab your sunnies and head out to one of these surefire hangover cure spots.

Biah Biah If Indonesian cuisine is what you’re craving, then one of the best spots in Ubud to get authentic Balinese and Indo dishes is Biah Biah. For something soothing for the stomach try the Soto Ayam, an Indonesian version of chicken noodle soup with shredded chicken and rice noodles in an aromatic broth topped with crispy fried shallots and a shot of tangy lime juice. You can also mix and match small plates to share like Tempe Goreng (fried tempe), Bregedel Kentang (deep fried potato cake) and Ayam Sambal Matah (spicy shredded chicken with shallots and garlic).

Jalan Goutama No. 13 T: (+62) 361 978 249 UbudLife 55

Yonne Cafe & Bar Can’t stand the heat with a hangover? Make your way to the cool air-conditioned interior of Yonne Cafe & Bar in Sens Hotel & Spa where you can chill out in a fresh modern space with a huge glass wall looking out to their courtyard pool. The head chef hails from China and specialises in authentic Asian cuisine, so you can indulge in dishes like Roasted Peking Duck, Kung Pao Chicken, and Hong Kong Style Wonton Noodle Soup. The best part is the restaurant is open 24 hours, so it also makes for a great late-night post-party place to pre-emptively stave off your future hangover.

Jalan Sukma, Sens Hotel & Spa T: (+62) 361 849 3328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

Café Des Artistes Casual, comfortable and set up the hill away from Ubud’s main road hustle, Café Des Artistes is a great little hideaway when you want excellent European comfort food without having to deal with traffic and crowds. This place is famous for their grilled tenderloin steaks available in two sizes and with your choice of sauces like creamy black pepper, tarragon or blue cheese and a range of sides like garlic mashed potatoes, broccoli gratin or sautéed green peas. They also do great barbecued ribs, pastas and salads.

Jalan Bisma 9x T: (+62) 361 972 706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com

Monkey Legend Conveniently located at the beginning of Monkey Forest Road, Monkey Legend is a hip and happening spot that does a great mix of Indonesian and Asian fusion dishes with a few Western favourites thrown in for good 56 UbudLife

measure. Even better, their prices are very reasonable considering they’re right in the middle of all the Ubud action. Try the Mixed Satay with smoky grilled chicken, beef and pork skewers served with a rich peanut sauce or the Tuna Salad with slices of perfectly seared tuna atop julienned veggies.

Jalan Monkey Forest No. 8 T: (+62) 361 981 611 www.monkeylegendubud.com

Down to Earth OK, so healthy food may not be the first thing you think of when you’re struggling with a hangover, but you may as well do your body some good after pummelling your liver.

Earth Cafe at Down to Earth is our go-to spot when we want fresh, organic vegan fare that actually tastes good and tops up the nutrient count. These guys only use animalfree ingredients from certified organic farms and they try to support small local growers whenever possible. For a quick hangover fix, go for one of their heartier plates like the BLT Smoked Coconut Sandwich, Sizzled Seitan Steak or the Pepper Portobello Pizza.

Jalan Goutama Selatan T: (+62) 85 100 835 545 www.earthcafebali.com

UbudLife 57

The Bali Vegan Festival According to Liat Solomen, founder of the Ubud Vegan Festival, it is about “more than just food and what not to eat. It’s a celebratory gathering of like-minded people who see the bigger picture”.

The soccer field will be the venue for free sunrise yoga and sunset dance open to all and many of the stalls. Paradiso will be hosting amazing speakers and the latest relevant films, while Taksu will accommodate most of the workshops.

The speakers lineup includes renowned “Cowspiracy/what the Health” filmmaker and environmentalist Kip Anderson as well as “may I be Frank” Ferrante the former NYC taxi driver, reformed drug addict and overweight who turned his life around. Fully Raw Kristina, founder of Rawfully Organic and a social media superstar. Dr. Susianto Tseng President of the International Vegetarian Union and vegan expert and author will speak as will Dr. Andréa Paige a speaker and teacher with her workshops on healing and dynamic morning yoga classes. Liat Solomon, founder of Down To Earth Bali and a trained macrobiotic chef will host a workshop on Home Remedy Secrets and give an in-depth talk on Food & Emotions Suzanne Miles, food researcher and author of Fork It will give a talk titled Fork It: Keys to Amazing Health. Ketut Susila, a plantbased Balinese Mangku (Priest) will talk on Offering without Sacrifice, delving into how he educates and helps spread his message of compassion.

In addition to the speakers there are to be daily food workshops, daily Qi Gong, life coaching sessions. Ayurveda, Reiki and more will be on offer at the festival, as well as a host 58 UbudLife

of children’s activities and film screenings at Paradiso, the World’s First Organic Vegan Cinema.

Paradiso Ubud will remain the epicenter of the festival, with talks and film screenings, as well as a comedy show, daily yoga classes and discussion panels. Manny activities, including sunrise yoga are free events so why not !

The festival will take place from October 6th-8th 2017.

Purchase Tickets Here: http://www.baliveganfestival.com/tickets/

For more information visit: www.baliveganfestival.com | E: Info@baliveganfestival.com UbudLife 59

Ayung Resort

Nacho Mama

Putri Bali Spa

Kopi Kat

Palm

Warung Alami

Bintang Super Market

Wayan Karja

Terracota

Dalem Temple

Folk, Nomas Folk Pool Gardens

Bali Healing Museum Puri Lukisan Griya

Warung Merta Sari

Copper Kitchen & Bar

Sri Ratih & Spa La Pacha Mama

Bridges Divine

Skin Spa

Villa Beji

MA S O K W AYA H

U

NI

Yin

Nani Spa Kayma Spa We’are

Kebun

Warung Sopa

Taksu Galleria

Sang Spa

SenS Yonne Sayuri

TM

Sensatia Pepito

White Box

Red Lotus

UMA SOK WAYAH

Highway Neka

Studio Perak

BPD Wr Siam Biah Biah Soma

Milano Spa Kunci Down To Earth Cendana

Kunci

Skin Fresh EWA

Bolero

Nomad Nirmala

Ubud Sari

Kopi Coffee Sensatia

A SUB

UUK M K J A

S

Gunung Merta Bungalow

Ubud Horse Stables

Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Pilar Batu

Garden Sopa

Sala Kafe Topi

Taman Beji Spa

UBUD LOCATION

Sisi

Arma Museum Arma Rsort Kafe Arma The Sunti

Greenfield Buddha Bowl Goddess Jaens Spa Panorama Pizza Bagus

Sari Api

BSF The Pond

Monkey Legend

Cocoon

Studio Perak

Biah-Biah+

Studio Perak de’ waRung

ISLAND OF BALI

Villa Beji Indah

SereS

Putri Ubud Spa

Sang Spa

UBUD

Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Sensatia Pepito

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

UbudLife 61

ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

62 UbudLife

TIPS

pura protocol

Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously.

Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

UbudLife 63

LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

Labuhan lalang

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Pe

a B e a ch

Antur

Lovina

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

BA

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Temple

A

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Lake

Gobleg

Tambling Mund

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

ST R

Airanakan

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk

Sanda

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Yehkuning

Perancak

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Munduk

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

DISTANCE [in kilometer]

Belimbing

Ampadan

BANGLI BESAKIH

Balia

CANDI DASA

Balian Beach

DENPASAR GIANYAR

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambit Beraban

GILIMANUK

IN

GOA GAJAH GOA LAWAH

O

N

Tanah

E

GUNUNG KAWI

D

Tib

S

IA

AMLAPURA

C

N

OC

SEMARAPURA KUTA

C

EA

LAKE BATUR

N

LEGIAN LOVINA AIRPORT

INT

NUSA DUA SANUR SINGARAJA TANAH LOT UBUD ULUWATU

64 UbudLife

Padang Sulub

Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

Banyuning

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

t. Batukaru 2276

Sekardadi

Nungkung

Jatiluwih

Soka

Apuan

Wongaya

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Tulamben

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan Senganan

T ul a

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan

Pacung

tukaru

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Kintamani

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

k

eg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Bangbang Iseh Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG a k) d as a Be ay Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan mbo Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan s ( Lo Ferry Channel Mas Island i GIANYAR il Mambal tan G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan Canggu - Le DENPASAR R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak h mb T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

Sebatu

Penebel Perean Pitra

Sulahan Singarata

C

h ac

N

DU

BA

San

ur

G

Be

ac

Ferry to N usa Pe nida

ch

h

NUSA PENIDA

us

a Dua Beac

h

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50 km

UbudLife 65

AN EXTRAORD

INARY DAY

CULTURE

Dance, prayer processions and great beauty presided.

Villagers who had moved to Denpasar and even Jakarta returned to their beautiful homeland to attend the ceremony. Located in a wide broad valley the village sits above rich ricelands and the area is untouched and pristine.

Of course there is always lots of sitting around and waiting at these various events, but with camera in hand, and lots of other photographers to chat with, snacks to enjoy and coffee to drink, it makes a great day out.

68 UbudLife

We met dancers, Rejang dancers dressed in fabulous headgear, boys dressed in red, older women carrying sacred objects all filled with beliefs and devotion. It was a happy day for everyone as they were released from daily concerns, it was time to relax and enjoy.

One event took place in a temple in the ricefields where there would be dance and trance. After hours of preparation, makeup, costuming and getting all the offerings and sacred objects in order, priests lined up, they were ready to start.

More prayers and blessings for the leaders, then accompanied by gongs and the strident

Dozens of priests were in attendance, to ensure the tranced ones came to no harm.

came to entrance everyone further. It was then time to return to the village where more prayers and devotions would continue late into the night, or maybe all night. They Balinese are very hardy. Sacred cockfights in the temple grounds were held, to spill blood on the sacred ground then dancing of a kind you will never see in a hotel or arts show.

Beautiful young girls danced and quickly fell into an almost estatic tranced state as they connected with spirits, while the crowds sat around and watched calmly. Later, the boys, dressed in red, danced a warlike number, before the calm beauty of the rejang girls

It was a wonderful day, yet we only saw a little of the five or six days of celebrations. If you are lucky enough to get word, or an invitation to visit a village ceremony, do try to go.

It will be an experience you will remember – a window to a different world.

clash of cymbals, they started to move. The procession led along a small surfaced path through ricefields down to the tiny temple near the river, making a colourful statement contrasting with the verdant greens of the growing padi.

UbudLife 69

THE TREE OF LIFE by rachel love

“He who plants a coconut tree plants food and drink, vessels and clothing, a home for himself and a heritage for his children”

T

o the modern-day traveller, the exotic coconut palm signifies warm seas and sunny beaches. To people living in the tropics, the coconut palm is the “Tree of Life,” with the Sanskrit word for coconut being roughly translated as “the food that sustains all life.”

This is because every part 70 UbudLife

of the tree is utilised in a multitude of ways to support the health and survival of the indigenous people in the countries where it grows.

Both humans and marine currents are responsible for distributing the coconut palm around the world.

NATURE to its inherent ability to sail on the tropical oceans, riding long distances on marine currents. When washed ashore, subject to finding a hospitable patch of ground within a suitable climate, these colonisers dry out in the sun and germinate where they land – even after three months of bobbing at sea. Coconut trees can grow up to 30 metres and continue to yield coconuts for up to a century, bearing around 60 coconuts every 45 days.

Portable and slow to rot, coconuts were carried in the canoes of the nomadic Polynesians and in the ships of the early explorers.

In fact, it was the Portuguese explorers who gave it the name coco, because they believed that the three indentations – known as the eyes – on the hairy nut resembled the face of ‘Coco,’ a scary witch in Portuguese folklore who used to be represented as a carved vegetable lantern.

Saltwater-resistant and also able to float, the coconut seed, with all that fibre and oil, makes a perfect botanical boat due

The hardy and durable wood is an excellent source of building and furniture materials, as well as paper pulp. The trunks can be used to make canoes and boats, posts, beams and small bridges, which are prized for their straightness, strength and salt resistance.

The roots of this versatile UbudLife 71

RESTAURANTS

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com Ayung Resort Desa Melinggih Kelod, Payangan, Ubud Phone: 0361 9001333 www.ayungresortubud.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com SereS Springs Resort & Spa Jl. Jukut Paku, Singekerta, Ubud Opening October 2017 Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168 www.villabejiindah.com

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 www.copperubud.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com de Warung Jl. Raya Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 971465 www.dewarung.com Folk Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Folk Pool Gardens Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 Monkey Legend Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0361 981611 www.monkeylegendubud.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sayuri Healing Food Jl. Sukma 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080385 www.sayurihealingfood.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81239655905 Yonne Cafe & Bar SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com

SPAS

SHOPS

Aura Theraphy Spa Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com

Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com

Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 973067 www.balihealingspa.com

Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0811 3882241 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Sang Spa 1 Reborn Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973236 www.sangspaubud.com Sriratih Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sala Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud AP Beauty Square Phone: 081 353314080 Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

GALLERIES Taksu Galleria Jl. Hanoman, Ubud www.taksuspa.com Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Hp: 085 103235151 www.sisibag.com SISI Jl. Sriwedari No.12, Ubud Hp: 085 100765895 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hp: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com

SPORT/RECREATION Bali Adventure Rafting Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.baliadventuretours.com

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com

Ubud Horse Stables Phone: 081 339585666 www.ubudhorsestables.com

Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

USEFUL NUMBERS

EAST BALI SECTION

Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com

Ambulance Airport Authority

118 751011

Bali Police Department

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Post Office Search and Rescue

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Villa Matanai Jasri Beach - East Bali Phone: +6281337611010 www.villamatanai.com

NORTH BALI SECTION The Hamsa Resort Jl. Air Terjun Sing-Sing, Lovina, Phone: +62 813 3719 4975

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074

Amertha Bali Villas Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 94831 www.baliamerthavillas.com Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605

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LAST WORD

We Are The Music Makers Mark Ulyseas

We are the music makers, And we are the dreamers of dreams, Wandering by lone sea-breakers, And sitting by desolate streams;— World-losers and world-forsakers, On whom the pale moon gleams: Yet we are the movers and shakers Of the world for ever, it seems.

- Arthur O'Shaughnessy, ODE (1873) Artists…painters, writers, poets, playwrights…have now become one of the lost tribes. Scattered far and wide.

They surface once in a while when destiny holds them to account for their absence. But in their absence from society the Fake artists, painters, writers, poets, playwrights etc. have run of the bars, festivals, galleries and theatres. The Fakes can easily be recognised by hair just so, attire that desperately seeks to be seen as individuality personified but really borders on the cloneish…and their work anyone with a pen, brush or access to colour or camera becomes a Fake artist conjuring up just so images to entice those vultures that feed off cultures. Fake artists are now stuff of legends. Legends in their own minds.

The Fake factory of artists flourishes anywhere where tourists congregate. Like praying mantises, excuse me – preying mantises, they indulge in the game of hunting, hunting for the just so art connoisseur with the just so bank balance and just so social position – horizontal or vertical. The charades by these ‘dumbwaiters’ are entertaining for those that lack the artistic streak and are searching to append themselves to a ‘creator’ of all things ‘creative’ regardless of the authenticity. Looks are all that matters, like a fake Louis Vuitton bag.

in oestrus? Why are they missing in action when they are needed to be present to raise high the mantle of the Self against the tsunami of Fake artists?

Perhaps the scattering of the Music Makers was the intention of Mother Nature to prevent contamination of this rare species and to maintain the anonymity (like Bansky) of the Self so that purity of art remains. For in this purity the power to create words and images will continue to grow. Maybe one day this power will be unleashed with devastating effect on humanity.

Art in any form is a creation by a human being celebrating the metaphysical in the physical world, and not dressed up like a whore waiting on the street for customers.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Why have the Music Makers shrugged, like Atlas, the responsibility to feed the hungry masses of eager beavers Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

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