Ubud Life 33th Edition

UbudLife guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

NYOMAN GUNARSA ONE OF BALI’S PIONEERING MODERN ARTISTS

A TALE OF A LOUSE AND A BUGLIFE MUSIC AND LIBATIONS COOKING CLASS WITH AN EDGE THE TEMPLES OF BALI

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EDITOR’S NOTE

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UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu, As I sit here writing this, Bali’s holy mountain, Gunung Agung is still threatening to explode! It is an interesting time to be in Bali and a time of learning.

The many ways people are handling the imminent threat is a lesson for us all. The Balinese have, in general, grouped together, helping each other and remaining calm in the face of the danger and the possibility, for many of them, that they could lose everything they have worked for.

Stories of great kindness are the ones that stand out. So many foreigners have lent a hand to help with donations and assistance to bring supplies to the evacuees hosted by other villages.

Food supplies, bedding and in fact, every physical need are being supplied and some organisations like Kopernik, BARC and BAWA stand out for the assistance they are providing.

By the time this edition comes out, we surely will know the outcome, but right now, many people are on standby just waiting to see how their lives will be affected. Children are going to school in their host villages and people stand by where they can.

In the end, it is a wonderful example of the strength of the human spirit. Sometimes it takes the threat of a natural disaster to bring people together and to forget the petty differences of daily life.

We are still hoping that the holy mountain will go back to sleep but in the meantime we just continue. Let’s hope that the power of prayer will in the end prevail.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Gustra Nyoman Gunarsa, one of Bali’s renowned and much loved painters has recently died leaving a large gap in the art community.

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editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors ibu kat jenny b rachel love stephanie m jean couteau richard horstman publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

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A TALE OF A LOUSE AND A BUG

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NYOMAN GUNARSA

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LIFE MUSIC AND LIBATIONS

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POOL SIZED PLEASURES

COOKING CLASS WITH AN EDGE

THE TEMPLES OF BALI

happenings around ubud JOHN HARDY MASTERCLASSES Luxury jewellery designer John Hardy has just unveiled their Artisan in Residence Workshop Masterclass at their beautiful design headquarters set amid 400 lush acres in Mambal. Guests will be treated to an exclusive behind-the-scenes tour of the creative hub and given the opportunity to work in tandem with master artisans to customise a one-ofa-kind piece of John Hardy jewellery. The masterclass will commence with a communal lunch of organic Balinese fare alongside the design team and artisans.

Prices vary depending on whether you want just the masterclass experience or the experience plus your own bespoke piece of jewellery.

TRASH HEROES The Trash Heroes are cleaning up! This (American) organization have established chapters in both Amed and Ubud and work closely together with the local people to encourage them to clean up their neighbourhoods. Bright yellow Tee shirts are a great persuader and they are handed out to many of the helpers. It is a proud moment for many young Balinese to not only be able to help but to be recognized as useful by these big foreigners so intent on helping to keep their beautiful clean. Power to the heroes, they are truly heroes! Trash heroes runs on funding to buy the tee shirts although most all of the organization is voluntary. If you would like to take part, or to donate please contact: www.facebook.com/TrashHeroUbud/ 12 UbudLife

Tel: +62 361 469 888 | www.johnhardy.com

PIZZA BAGUS HAS MOVED Pizza Bagus that purveyor of all things Italian has moved about 400 metres south to a bright new venue with loads of parking. Everything is the same same but different and the deli is as good as ever!

Pizzas, pastas and other daily specials as well as a few Indonesian specialities. Try it, you’ll like it.

Pizza Bagus Jalan Raya Pengosekan

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IBU SUSU New to Monkey Forest Road, Ibu Susu is already drawing in the foodie set for their innovative Pan-Asian cuisine and cocktails. Owners Ketut and Hana spared no attention to detail designing the space with gorgeous blue textiles, huge windows with wooden shutters, and stunning handmade ceramics from Japan. Ketut draws on his years of experience working behind some of the best bars in Melbourne to create lovely libations like the Salted Caramel Espresso Martini and Pandan Colada, while the contemporary menu was created by Nicolas Lazzaroni, formerly of Uma Cucina and now Settimo Cielo. Must-try dishes include the Butterfish Tataki with soy ginger dressing, Soft Shell Crab & Green Mango Salad, and the Roast Pork Belly with shaved apple and coconut salad.

Jalan Monkey Forest (just before Hubud) www.ibususu.com

VILLAGE PLATE New to Bali or even an old timer? Want to meet a local family and share a meal together? Try Ubud Village Plate, a local initiative allowing a genuine interaction between travelers and a Balinese family.

Sharing an exchange over dinner opens a whole new experience of Bali. For many, it is the first time they have been invited into a Balinese family compound and by sharing a meal together, it’s great way to get an understanding Balinese culture.

Putu and Pasta from Pejeng Village are one of the Village Plate hosts. As Putu explains, “We love to show people all aspects of Balinese culture. Before we sit down to a meal, we have a tour around the family compound. I explain about all the different buildings. Guests get to meet Grandma and the rest of the extended family. We also visit our rice fields and visit our garden which has papaya, mangosteen, durian, banana, and jackfruit as well as many Balinese local herbs”.

This is a sustainable tourism initiative to give back to the Balinese and create understanding between cultures. Children especially enjoy it and may find a new playmate in a family compound.

Options: Meal Only, Meal + Cooking Class or Meal + Cooking Class + Market Tour http://www.ubudvillageplate.com, Facebook: Ubud Village PlateTrip Advisor: Ubud Village Plate Contact: Nova Togatorop at Email: nova@roadbeats.com or T: whats app +62 878 5520 4380 14 UbudLife

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UBUD HOTEL ASSOCIATION CHEF COMPETITION 2017 Ubud Hotels Association (UHA) celebarates its 13th anniversary with a chef competition for its member hotels on 9 December 2017.

Ubud Hotels Association was founded in 2005 as a non-profit organization. Over the years its membership has grown from 4 to 80 hotels located in 3 districts in and around Ubud. The main purpose is to lobby for the preservation of Ubud as a unique destination; to actively participate in the development of tourism in Ubud by actively communicating with all stakeholders and to provide concerted marketing efforts for its member hotels.

For further information, contact info@ ubudhotelsassosiation.com

As a tourism destination Ubud is known around the world not just as a cultural destination, but as a culinary destination as well. It is home to several world class restaurants and local delicacy restaurants. Yet true authentic Balinese cuisine, particularly from around Ubud, is still relatively unknown even to local tourists.

In response to this UHA is creating the 2017 UHA Chef Competition and aims to introduce local cuisine to international as well as local tourists and travelers alike. It aims to instill a pride in local cuisine and encourage local talent to be more innovative in presenting authentic recipes handed down for generations.

The competition is open to participants up to Chef De Partie level only from UHA member hotels. Participants will be required to prepare a traditional Balinese main dish presented in fine dining style using pre-determined main ingredients. To complement this, participants must also show their talents in preparing and presenting traditional Balinese desserts.

Judging will be conducted in collaboration with the Ubud Chef Community (UCC) and will include representatives from the media.

The 2017 UHA Chef Competition takes place on 9 December 2017 in Bale Udang Restaurant. Winners will be announced during the UHA anniversary event which takes place later in the day in the same venue.

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SWADAYA Renowned Indonesia journalist and photographer Rio Helmi has teamed up with award-winning filmmaker, director and producer Joe Yaggi to work on a project that aims to show the world the best of Indonesia and her inspiring people. Swadaya, which means ‘empowerment’, is a cultural adventure television series that will cover Rio’s journey across Indonesia by motorbike to uncover exceptional grassroots stories of Indonesian people who have created long-term projects that have benefited their communities in life-changing ways. Rio and Joe hope that the 13-episode series will inspire and empower other people in Indonesia and around the world to create their own socially beneficial projects. www.swadayafilm.com

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A TALE OF A LOUSE AND A BUG by jean couteau • illustration w sadha

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CULTURAL TALES

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nce upon a time, there was a louse by the name of Asada, who was living in the king’s mattress, and had been living there for a long time without ever moving. Not far away, there was a bug by the name of Candala, who was living in the holes and crevices of the wall. One day, as he was impressed by the louse’s luxury, the bug went to call on him, and addressed him in these words: Hey, you, Asada, the louse, excuse me for disturbing you. My name is Candala the bug, which lives in the holes and cracks in the walls. Look at me and how skinny I am, I who seldom find enough food to eat. Even when I find some, it is never to my fill, and only for a few seconds, when someone is leaning against my wall. As soon as I bite, the person is surprised and runs away. There is, thus, no way for me to eat, and here I remain pathetically skinny, while I see you shining and gleaming, proof of how well you live and eat.

To this Asada replied.” Hey, you the bug. I know who you are, your name is Candala the bug, and my name is Asada the louse. The place I haunt for food is great, but I only bite him in the right place and time. For the place: I never leave the king’s mattress.

As for the time, I wait for him to be well asleep. Only then do I bite him at his foot, at will, and many times, until I get my fill.

But if I don’t get such a good opportunity, I don’t bite, and may not eat for one or two full days or more. I always look for the right opportunity, because I don’t want to follow my instincts like the stupid heron, who could not control himself until he was killed by the crab (ed: reference to another story, in which the heron gives his trust to the crab, who pinches him to death).

Such were the words of wisdom from the louse to Candala, the bug. As he felt his neighbor was sincere, Candila befriended Asada and visited him on his mattress. Now was the opportunity to eat his fill too, or so the bug thought. Upon seeing the white skin of the king’s thigh, he wanted to bite and suck right away, when he was addressed by his friend in these words: “Hey, Candala, my friend, beware, as now is not a good opportunity to bite. Wait for the night to come. But Candala the bug could not wait, so overwhelmed was he by the bloodlust. He felt he had to eat, as he was too hungry. So ignoring his friend’s advice and, without waiting for the right time, he eagerly bit at the king’s thigh. Alas, the king felt so badly bitten that he awoke from a deep slumber, and called his guards, ordering them to hunt and kill the biting insect.The guards turned the mattress this way and that way, but could not find the bug, because he had jumped into the refuge of a hole in the mat. But they found the louse and his wife and they were both crushed to death. Then they carried on, until they found the bug and put him to death as well.

Such is the lesson of the tale: whoever gives protection without considering the qualities and defects of the person whom one helps, exposes oneself to the biggest danger.

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NYOMAN GUNARSA

One of Bali’s pioneering modern ar tists by richard horstman • image gustra

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ith the recent passing of Balinese artist Nyoman Gunarsa on the 10th September 2017 an important era of Balinese art comes to a close. His legacy as an artist, art lecturer and art community leader - one of the icons of the island’s cultural landscape - however, will continue on through the generations of artists he inspired, and the people’s lives he has touched.

An evergreen character with a zest for life, Gunarsa was born in Klungkung, East Bali in 1944. The first post war Balinese artist to rise to national prominence, he also went on to achieve international acclaim. His contribution to the development of Balinese art as one of the pioneering modernist was in the exploration of form, rather than the narrative.

Gunarsa’s energetic style of applying paint to canvas with spontaneous, gestural brushstrokes was likened by some to a musical conductor, and he was affectionately known as the maestro. Raised nearby to the village of Kamasan, which during the 16th – 20th centuries was the epicentre of Balinese Classical art, Gunarsa was renowned for his dedication to the art of his forefathers. Academically trained, he quickly matured as a realism painter, yet in the 1980’s his fresh approach to depicting the characters from the Wayang Kulit shadow puppet theatre broke new aesthetic grounds in Balinese art.

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The foundation of Balinese art is drawing. The strictly governed rules and techniques that characterize the Classical style begin with the sketching of the composition, the drawing of the fine black ink outlines of all visual information, and the colouring in of figures, forms and motifs. Originally these were collective works completed by a group of artists, as a communal offering of gratitude to the Gods. The application of colour involved controlled brushstrokes, layered until the desired results were achieved – a brushwork technique akin to drawing, or pencilling in the colourful hues.

Gunarsa’s signature style was an adaptation from western influences, in which the individual’s innovative ideas, emotions and energy are omnipotent. Freedom and power of expressive, often minimal, brushstrokes defined his visual approach.

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These were the formative days of Balinese contemporary art.

Via their fresh approach to exploration and expression using new and unusual media they transformed Balinese philosophies, rituals and symbols into an exciting new visual language.

Gunarsa captured a fresh sense of dynamism in his interpretations of iconic scenarios from the Balinese Hindu legends, along with his revolutionary method of capturing traditional ceremony and performance, especially beautiful women dancing. Fusing his cultural knowledge with elements of expressionism and abstract painting immediately set his work apart from that of his contemporaries.

Colourful, pulsating movement and vitality categorize Balinese ceremony, performance and dance. This has been a source of inspiration for artists over many generations, yet never had a painter captured the seen, and unseen elements of energy, with Gunarsa’s colourful vibrancy. Form along with the decorative elements of Balinese Classical painting took on wonderful new life, and an exciting, newfound match for the unique, real visual spectacle was born.

As an art lecturer at Yogyakarta’s ASRI (Academi Seni Rupa Indonesia) during the late 1960’s and early 1970’s Gunarsa was a catalyst to great change. He shared his vast knowledge and enthusiasm with a new, young generation of Balinese artists, the first to venture outside their cultural structures and restraints, to be academically trained in Central Java.

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Gunarsa helped establish Indonesia’s longest running artist collective, Sanggar Dewata Indonesia, SDI (Workshop of the Gods) in 1970, inviting his Balinese students to form the new association. SDI grew to create a social collective to coordinate artistic activities, exhibitions and organize debates on art outside the institutional teaching framework. It offered its members freedom to collaborate and create without having to fear being labeled as supporters of certain political parties, during a highly politicized era of Indonesian history.

While the influential 1936 – 1945 Pita Maha artists collective redefined Balinese traditional art with modern aesthetics for the burgeoning tourist market, SDI set about redefining from the artist’s perspective based on the search for new ideas, self-expression, and national identity. This new art movement laid the foundations for the future,

while inspiring many young artist to study in Yogyakarta, and Balinese contemporary art evolved to reveal its own distinct ‘voice’ in world art, while spawning generations of talented artists.

As an international, multi award winning artist Gunarsa held solo exhibitions in more than ten foreign countries.

During the 1980’s – 1990’s Gunarsa and others such as Wianta, Sika, Djirna and Erawan enjoyed national and international success. Gunarsa opened the Museum of Contemporary Indonesian Painting in Yogyakarta in 1989. His next milestone was in 1994 when the Nyoman Gunarsa Museum of Classical Painting opened next to his residence in Klungkung. In the 3-storey venue he combined his own works with Classical

A landmark celebration of Balinese art was held from July – October 2012 at Gunarsa’s museum, The First International Festival of Classical Balinese Painting.

The festival included works from collections of seven other countries, along with the participation of some of the world’s leading foreign authorities on Balinese Classical art. “Classical Balinese paintings have been admired world wide since the European society first became acquainted with the East in the 15th century,” said Gunarsa. “And since then other countries have sought these masterpieces to enrich their cultural references because of the extraordinary implied messages, philosophies, and counsels about the life of the Balinese.”

paintings from the 17th – 19th centuries. Dedicated to the preservation of this unique art form Gunarsa acquired rare works, including ones painted on the mostly unknown ulantaga bark paper.

Artefacts, stone and woodcarvings, traditional furniture, masks, sculptures and a collection of sacred ceremonial kris add to the historical significance of his museum. In August 2017 the Indonesian President Joko Widodo attended an official reception at the museum in Gunarsa’s honor.

To visit Gunarsa’s museum venture east from Ubud through Gianyar to the regency of Klungkung and on the western outskirts, 5 kilometers from the city center you can find the Nyoman Gunarsa’s Museum of Classical Painting, open daily from 10am – 5pm.

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Power Shot in the Arm rejuvenation and revitalization in the tropics by jill alexander • images ayu sekar

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iving in paradise is not always easy!

In Ubud with all the yoga, the meditating, the raw food, the ecstatic dance and the fun of meeting so many people, sometimes, we just want to freshen up, to feel a little rejuvenated.

Feeling in need of a little freshening, I decided to head to Cocoon, on Monkey Forest Road, a haven of peace and tranquility.

Cocoon is Bali’s number one anti ageing and wellness centre, or medical spa. With a branch both in Ubud and down south in Legian, they have the island pretty well covered. While many of the treatments are available in Ubud, the southern branch does it all.

I needed a shot in the arm, and Cocoon offered just the right medicine. I decided to revitalize my inner being with a vitamin infusion.

Lying in my own little cocoon room, the nurse rendered the infusion. A cunning mix of high dose of Vitamin C (5000mg), is mixed with Vitamins B1, B6 and B12, as well as glutathione. Not only is it a revitalizing and anti aging mix, it is also a perfect hangover cure guaranteed to replenish your cells. The glutathione helps to revitalize the liver, as well as giving the whole bodily system a boost!

HEALTH AND BEAUTY much more effective and the effects last for a few weeks at least, helping us to live with our maximum power.

You can check their website to see what other interesting treatments are on offer including several beauty and facial treatments.

One day I headed south to try their Yag Laser. This is another of Cocoon’s anti-aging treatments – a less invasive laser known to firm the deeper levels of the epidermis. It can also be used to remove tattoos.

All those vitamins are mixed in a sterile saline solution to dilute it enough for the body to accept it. It needs to be dripped into the body rather than injected, because the dose is so high – 5000 mg of Vitamin C alone and it needs time to absorb into the bloodstream.

The drip lasts for about half an hour and is incredibly relaxing. As the vitamins course through the body, all pain and tension dissolve and you tend to verge at the edge of sleep. At the end of the treatment, it is time to rise groggily from the bed, and after some hot ginger tea, the best thing is to return home for a good sleep, only to wake up refreshed and feeling fine. You can almost feel your cells taking in the vitamins and replenishing themselves. As I had just been suffering the after effects of a flu attack, it was the perfect time for an infusion. After all the flu is almost as debilitating as a bad hangover!

A vitamin infusion every month or two is just the thing to keep us in good condition. When we rely on pills, for our supplements, we will find that they are not nearly as effective, as the body can only absorb so many nutrients through the digestive system. When it is infused directly into the blood stream, it is so

The ND Yang Laser treatment is reputed to do a great job of refining our facial contours and a slightly different style to the myriad new laser therapies, which can be uncomfortable.

Having tried it previously in Singapore I was delighted to finally discover it in Bali. One of the nicest things about the ND Yag, is that it is a lot less painful than most other laser remedies. There is no need for numbing cream and the treatment seems to take just ten minutes. After three or four sessions, over a period of a month or two, the skin is resurfaced and you can definitely look rejuvenated.

After a consult with the good doctor, I reclined comfortably in my purpose built chamber, and simply relaxed while the machine worked its magic. And after what seemed like minutes it was all done. The effects build up over a week or two and then it is time for a booster. While even one session works well, three of four is definitely best.

With all these great treatments, It is no wonder that they are an award winner! http://cocoonmedicalspa.com/Jl Monkey Forest, Ubud Bali | T: +62 8113882240

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INFO TEL: 081353320709 or [0361] 8495479

COOKING CLASS WITH AN EDGE

by stephanie m • images ayu sekar

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hrough the magic of the printed word, let me whisk you off to a rural village just west of Ubud where you find yourself at a tranquil resort with a glittering infinity pool overlooking rows of terraced rice paddies.

Now imagine that instead of lounging by the pool, you’re about to get on a bicycle for the first time in 10 years. Imagine also that you’re not really in the greatest shape. Such is my situation.

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WHATS COOKING Perhaps I’ve been in Bali too long, because my first thought is, ‘Well if I can ride a motorbike, surely riding a bicycle again can’t be that hard.’

My second thought is, ‘Isn’t this supposed to be a cooking class?’

I’ve always been a huge fan of Hujan Locale, a gorgeous farm-to-table Indonesian restaurant in Ubud brought to us by the indefatigable

Will Meyrick, who is also the chef-owner of Sarong, Mamasan, Tiger Palm and the newly opened Som Chai in Kerobokan. When I discovered that Hujan Locale did cooking classes, I immediately placed them at the top of my bucket list, and now here I am.

Before even touching a cutting board or knife, we gather in front of Puri Taman Sari Resort in

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the small village of Marga to meet our posse for the day. Besides yours truly, our motley crew includes a group of amiable Australian expats and visitors, an Indonesian motherdaughter team, a lovely Italian lady, Ubud Life’s own photographer and our guides, Kadek, Bagus and Will Meyrick himself.

series of winding paths past subak system rivers and the rice fields they water, pandanus plantations, and Balinese temples and homes.

Along the way we stop for photo ops and learn about the landscape and the connection it has with Balinese culture and cuisine. Our final destination is Mengwi market.

Coffee scoffed, introductions made, and bikes tested and tried on for size, we set off on a

If you’ve never been to a traditional Balinese market, Mengwi is a good place to start. You

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Two words about Balinese cuisine: labor intensive. Balinese bumbu involve a cornucopia of ingredients that need to be sliced, diced, pounded and chopped to form a smooth-ish paste. I know what you’re thinking—why not use a food processor or blender? Well, as Will explains, that would hinder the release of oils and take away from the unique texture. Fair enough.

You won’t find any tourist tat here, rather each stall is laden with vivid canang offerings, tropical fruit, thick ropes of long beans and freshly roasted peanuts. Will leads us inside and gives us a rundown of the roots, herbs and spices that make up the bumbu, an aromatic spice paste that is at the heart of Balinese cuisine.

For breakfast we head to a small warung for heaping portions of nasi campur with spicy shredded chicken, fried tempe, corn fritters and thick slabs of roasted pork belly. Sated, we hit the pavement again and ride through rolling rice fields to a quaint temple set amongst towering trees where we assemble our own canang and, under the guidance of our gracious guides, make offerings to the temple gods.

Back at the resort there is time for a quick plunge in the pool before the cooking begins.

The cooking school is located in a covered wantilan surrounded by rice paddies in a peaceful corner of the resort. We each have our own cooking station, and get right to it, chopping up ingredients for bumbu rajang.

For the next two hours we chop, mix, toss, saute and skewer as Will and the cooks explain the ins and outs of each recipe and come around to our stations to make sure we don’t royally screw up any of our dishes. By the end of the class, our plates are piled high with duck sate, vegetable lawar, prawns in a curry-like gravy, smoked chicken and spicy sambal.

Like most cooking classes, the experience ends with us getting to devour our creations.

Unlike many cooking classes, we enjoy our self-made lunch in a breezy bale in the middle of the rice fields in Bali’s countryside with one of Bali’s most prolific restaurateurs.

We find out that in addition to managing his multitude of restaurants, running the cooking classes and embarking on regular long-distance cycling trips, Will is also setting up Infinity Lifestyle Adventures for off-thebeaten-path tours around Bali and a centre in Seminyak with its own resident nutritionist that will offer cooking classes and retreats.

Where Will finds the stamina to do it all and raise a family is a mystery to me, but I suspect it has something to do with what the Hujan Locale cooking class encapsulates: a combination of good, locally sourced food, connecting with nature and community, and indulging passions like cooking and exploring.

Perhaps conquering fears is also part of it, like the trepidation of getting on a bicycle after much time passed.

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PILAR BATU GALLERY

Presenting fine art quality of paintings and as a painting studio of I Wayan Suarmadi ADDRESS: JALAN MADE LEBAH, UBUD, GIANYAR, BALI | PHONE: 62 361 978197 | MOBILE: 62 81 23980044 EMAIL: WAYANSUARMADI75@GMAIL.COM | WWW.PILARBATU.COM

Spirit of Bali words and image ayu sekar

These beautiful girls are just waiting to dance the Rejang in the Inner Courtyard of their local odalan temple ceremony. This very sacred dance is often performed at important ceremonies.

Cloves,

Bali’s Fragrant Harvest by ibu kat • image ayu sekar

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or westerners, the spicy fragrance of cloves evokes winter holiday feasts of mulled wine, baked ham and fruit cakes. Indians think of chai. Indonesians associate the aroma with kretek cigarettes.

In fact, Indonesia was the sole source of the famous spice for centuries.

Cloves have been around for a long time. They’ve been found in a ceramic jar in Syria which was dated to around 1720 BCE. A Chinese leader 2000 years ago demanded that people around him chew cloves to sweeten the breath. Muslim merchants traded them in the Middle Ages. Ancient trading routes can be traced by the movement of cloves and other commodities from a few islands in Maluku in eastern Indonesia, which was the only place they grew at that time, around what was then the known world.

Indian and Arab traders brought cloves, cinnamon, black pepper and other spices to the Middle East; Europeans first encountered spices there during the Crusades and brought them home as expensive treasures. Portuguese explorers set off in search of their origin and opened routes from India to the Moluccas (Maluku) in eastern Indonesia.

The fabled Spice Islands became the epicentre of violent trade wars between the Portuguese, English and Dutch as they competed for the hugely profitable spice business. The Dutch won, and dominated the spice trade from the early 17th century until Indonesian Independence following World War Two. Cloves are the dried unopened flower buds of Syzygium aromaticum, a tall evergreen tree in the myrtle family. The name comes from the French ‘clou’ (nail). These days most of Bali’s cloves are grown in Munduk and Jembrana.

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SPICY TALE Clove trees were first planted in Munduk in western Bali about 45 years ago and now cover the slopes of Gunung Lesung and Gunung Sangiyang. In harvest season the cool mountain air is intoxicatingly fragrant with the scent of clove oil from the fallen leaves.

Cloves are labour-intensive and dangerous to produce. Men climb frail ladders to pick the clove flower buds singly before they open, when they have just turned pink. Falls from the flimsy ladders are not uncommon. Whole families migrate from Karangasam in east Bali to harvest the crop. All the family members, including the children, spend the nights breaking the tops off the buds that were harvested that day before laying them out in the sun to dry.

But this year there will be no cloves from Munduk. The trees failed to set flowers, probably because of the continuous rains over the past few months. This will have a disastrous financial impact on the smallholders who rely on the income from cloves.

Although coffee and cocoa are also grown on the mountainsides, cloves are by far the most lucrative crop. With about 600 hectares in clove production and with each hectare usually producing about 700 kilograms of cloves, Munduk’s farmers will lose the income from 420,000 kilograms of cloves this year. In neighbouring Jembrana, where farmers also replanted rice fields with clove trees, this year’s crop has also failed.

Cloves are chemically and medically interesting.

Several bioactive compounds have been isolated from clove extracts, including flavonoids, hexane, methylene chloride, ethanol, thymol, eugenol and benzene. These biochemicals have antioxidant,

hepato-protective, anti-microbial and anti

inflammatory properties.

Cloves are the richest plant source of the potent chemical compound eugenol, with clove oil containing between 80 to 95 percent eugenol. Oil of cloves or eugenol is commonly used by dentists because it’s antiseptic, anti-inflammatory and mildly anesthetic. Studies show that eugenol fights bacteria and inhibits the growth of many fungi, including Candida albicans, the pathogen responsible for most human yeast infections. Preliminary research also shows that eugenol is a very UbudLife 51

powerful fat-soluble antioxidant, inhibiting the accumulation of fat peroxide products in red blood cells and maintaining the activities of the body’s antioxidant enzymes at normal levels.

Ground cloves are also a very potent antioxident, second only to raw sumac bran.

Per gram, cloves contain thirty times as much antioxidant value as blueberries.

In Chinese and Moghul medicine, cloves were considered to possess aphrodisiac properties.

The eugenol in clove oil was recently tested as an aphrodisiac on rats, (which hardly require assistance in that department), with positive results.

For Indonesians the aroma of cloves is evocative of the spicy, wickedly strong and mildly narcotic cigarettes known as kretek, which are smoked with great enthusiasm all over the archipelago.

The Journal of Immunotoxicology published a study proving that the eugenol in clove oil is a powerful anti-inflammatory. Low doses of eugenol can protect the liver against disease and reverse the inflammation and cellular oxidation which causes aging. It was also observed that taking large doses internally could harm the digestive lining and externally can irritate sensitive skin, so use well diluted with a carrier oil externally and very cautiously internally.

The leaves of the clove tree contain up to 60% clove oil. In Bali the fallen leaves are gathered and sold by the sack to be distilled into clove oil, much of which is used by the domestic spa industry.

52 UbudLife

Around two thirds of Indonesian men smoke and it seems that most of these prefer kretek to ‘white’ cigarettes. Kretek contain 70% tobacco, and 30% ground cloves and clove oil as well as other additives.

Unlike other countries, Indonesia cigarette industry is booming, with the nation's cigarette production expected to rise to 524 billion cigarettes by 2020. So the domestic market for cloves supports most of the clove industry. And most of Bali’s clove crop is sold directly to cigarette manufacturers in Java.

Whatever your association with the sweetly spicy aroma of cloves, take a bag of them home to keep in an open bowl -- a fragrant memory of Bali.

LIVE MUSIC and LIBATIONS F

by stephanie m

or such a small (yet ever-evolving) town, Ubud has a slew of seriously skilled musicians and tons of great spots showcasing homegrown and international talent. If you’re looking for a place to groove out to good tunes and get your dance on, these are some of the hottest venues in town to catch live bands and DJs.

54 UbudLife

NIGHTLIVE

BALI BOHEMIA Just like the name suggests, Bali Bohemia has an easy-going, free-spirited vibe with two stories of space featuring vibrant murals, candlelit tables and a mosaic-tiled dance floor. You won’t find the usual cover bands here, instead they host a wide variety of bands every Saturday night playing anything from African drumming to flamenco and Sundanese fusion, contemporary Indonesian and Old World music. Fancy yourself a bit of a muso? Swing by for their Thursday night open-mike jams when the stage is open to anyone who wants to share their songs and talent. Also keep an eye out for their upcoming art dance events.

Jalan Nyuh Bojog, Nyuh Kuning (behind the Monkey Forest) T: (+62) 361 978 631 | www.balibohemia.com

CP LOUNGE As Ubud’s only nightclub, CP Lounge does a stellar job of getting the dance floor moving with boss bands throwing down rock n’ roll, reggae and blues in the garden and resident DJ Kenji playing big beats until late in the lounge. Add to this creative cocktails like passionfruit mojitos and coconut martinis, tasty tapas, and tons of pool tables where can you play for free in between dance sessions, and you’ve got the perfect recipe for a fab night out on the town. The bands take the stage from 9pm to midnight, after which the party continues inside and out until 4am or whenever the last guest goes home.

Jalan Monkey Forest | T: (+62) 361 978 954 | www.cp-lounge.com UbudLife 55

LAUGHING BUDDHA Long-time darling of Ubud’s live music scene, Laughing Buddha offers different bands every night of the week, so depending on the mood you’re in, you can groove out to Caribbean rhythms, shake your booty to lively Latin dance numbers, or get down to funky jazz beats and classic rock n’ roll anthems. Their repertoire of musicians includes Jim Larkin and the Gumbo Blues, The Cooltones, Buena Tierra and Ika & The Soulbrothers. Dancing is pretty much a given here, and should you need a bit of refreshment to keep you going, they’ve got a wide selection of cocktails and a kitchen that stays open until 1am.

Jalan Monkey Forest T: (+62) 361 970 928 www.laughingbuddhabali.com

LOVIN Laid-back Lovin may not be on the main strip, but it’s the kind of place you stumble upon and end up staying for hours jamming with the bands and chatting up the eclectic crew of characters who mill in and out throughout the evening. They offer live music nearly every night including regular open-mike nights where you’ll find locals, expats and tourists alike lighting up the stage, reggae nights every Thursday, and impromptu late-night jam sessions with local musicians who swing by here for beers after playing gigs around town.

Jalan Sukma 45 T: (+62) 821 3928 5957 www.facebook.com/lovinbar/ 56 UbudLife

NO MAS Look for the bright neon sign on Monkey Forest that says, ‘Treasure This Way’ and follow the arrow upstairs to No Mas, a selfproclaimed island sinkhole where you can grab cheeky cocktails and elevated pub grub while listening to live bands and DJs. Mondays and Fridays are all about the Latin grooves with Siji Band, Tuesday to Thursday Jack n’ Roll hits the mike with his unique brand of hard rock, Saturday DJ Ebes R tears up the decks, and Sundays are for chilling with acoustic jams by Juju & Friends. Even better, they have fab drink specials going on all night every night.

Jalan Monkey Forest T: (+62) 361 908 0800 www.nomasubud.com

JUNO’S Located up in Penestanan Kelod, Juno’s is a hip hangout offering coffee, smoothie bowls and salads by day and classic cocktails and cool jams in the evenings. Weekends are when the live music kicks off with local bands rocking out on Fridays, Latin rhythms and salsa dancing on Saturdays, and openmike nights on Sundays when those brave enough to hit the stage get 50 per cent off their food and drinks bill. Keep an eye out on their Facebook page for special events like Open Mic Flamenco Night and the Let’s Get Quizzical trivia night.

Jalan Penestanan Kelod T: (+62) 813 3908 3995 www.junosubud.com

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Ayung Resort

Nacho Mama

Putri Bali Spa

Kopi Kat

Palm

Warung Alami

Bintang Super Market

Wayan Karja

Terracota

Dalem Temple

Warung Merta Sari

Bali Healing Museum Puri Lukisan Griya

Folk, Nomas Folk Pool Gardens

Copper Kitchen & Bar

Sri Ratih & Spa La Pacha Mama

Bridges Divine

Skin Spa

Villa Beji

MA S O K W AYA H

U

NI

Yin

Nani Spa Kayma Spa We’are

Kebun

Warung Sopa

Taksu Galleria

Sang Spa

SenS Yonne Sayuri

TM

Highway Neka

Studio Perak

BPD Wr Siam Biah Biah Soma

Milano Spa Kunci Down To Earth Cendana

Kunci

Skin Fresh EWA

Bolero

B.Saya Villa & Restaurant

Nomad Nirmala

Ubud Sari

Kopi Coffee Sensatia

A SUB

UUK M K J A

S

Red Lotus

White Box

Pepito

Gunung Merta Bungalow

Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery

WORLD MAP

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Pilar Batu

Garden Sopa

Sala Pizza Bagus Kafe Topi

Taman Beji Spa

UBUD LOCATION

Sisi

Arma Museum Arma Rsort Kafe Arma The Sunti

Greenfield Buddha Bowl Goddess Jaens Spa Panorama Nostimo

Sari Api

BSF The Pond

Monkey Legend

Cocoon

Studio Perak

Biah-Biah+

Studio Perak de’ waRung

ISLAND OF BALI

Villa Beji Indah

SereS

Putri Ubud Spa

Sang Spa

UBUD

Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Pepito

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

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ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

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TIPS

pura protocol

Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously.

Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

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LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

Labuhan lalang

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Pe

a B e a ch

Antur

Lovina

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

BA

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Temple

A

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Lake

Gobleg

Tambling Mund

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

ST R

Airanakan

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk

Sanda

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Yehkuning

Perancak

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Munduk

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

DISTANCE [in kilometer]

Belimbing

Ampadan

BANGLI BESAKIH

Balia

CANDI DASA

Balian Beach

DENPASAR GIANYAR

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

GILIMANUK

IN

GOA GAJAH GOA LAWAH

O

N

Tanah

E

GUNUNG KAWI

D

Tib

S

IA

AMLAPURA

C

N

OC

SEMARAPURA KUTA

C

EA

LAKE BATUR

N

LEGIAN LOVINA AIRPORT

INT

NUSA DUA SANUR SINGARAJA TANAH LOT UBUD ULUWATU

62 UbudLife

Padang Sulub

Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA Banyuning

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

k

eg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

Sebatu

Penebel Perean Pitra

Sulahan Singarata

C

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San

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G

Be

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Ferry to N usa Pe nida

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NUSA PENIDA

us

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0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50 km

UbudLife 63

POOL SIZED I

n Bangli, the home of the magical monkey forest lies a big glistening blue pool, the size used for Olympic competition.

Fed by spring water, the Tirtha Arum Public Pool stands by a forest and an ancient temple.

This may be the only Olympic pool in Bali and certainly the only one in the Ubud area.

About a gorgeous twenty minute drive away through traditional villages, and padi fields, the pool is open to the public every morning from 9am – 3pm and for the princely sum of 7,500R, it is all yours.

After 3pm it becomes the training ground for fit looking Balinese and Indonesians who are working on their style for national and international competitions.

It’s a beautiful place and while the water is slightly chlorinated it is nothing like the pools that many of us inhabited during the long, hot summers as children in Australia.

A small warung serves up coffee, cool drinks, ice cream and noodle soup to those who require refreshments.

64 UbudLife

PLEASURES...

Try it and see. Swimming ten lengths of your hotel pool barely qualifies as exercise but swim ten lengths of this 50 meter pool and you know you are alive. Any day will bring a small sprinkling of Russians or Americans, but for much of the time, it is blissfully empty. Why not take a friend or two along and have a beautiful morning’s exercise. You could even combine it with a visit to the Sangeh Monkey Forest.

To find it requires good navigation, or use the google map, as it is not signposted. However, it is on the Jl Raya Sangeh and located close to the market. Coming from Ubud, you can drive along the Bongkasa road, through verdant padi fields and big skies.

The Tirta Arum Public Pool | Jl. Sutomo, Blahkiuh, Abiansemal, Kabupaten Badung, Bali 80352 UbudLife 65

THE TEMPLES OF BALI by rachel love • image ayu sekar

66 UbudLife

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68 UbudLife

one of the last Majapahit priests to come from Java in the 16th century. The temple is perched on a craggy wave-lashed rock just at the edge of the frothing white surf and glistening black shoreline, and is one of the most photographed sights in Bali.

It can only be reached at low tide and the surrounding rocks are rumoured to be inhabited by sea snakes. The best time to visit is in the late afternoon when you can see the splendid profile of the temple silhouetted against the setting sun.

Also in the Tabanan regency, on the west shore of Lake Bratan is the mystical Pura Ulun Danu Bratan, a tiered temple that appears to float on the surface of the water. Resting alongside attractive, well-maintained gardens, the temple was built in 1633 by the king of Mengwi to honour the Goddess of the Lake who provides water for irrigation.

Pura Besakih, known as the ‘Mother Temple’, is the island’s largest and most important Hindu temple, and is situated on its slopes of Gunung Agung, Bali’s tallest and holiest mountain and dwelling place of the gods. This most venerated site in Bali is actually a complex of three temple compounds characterised by thatched pagoda roofs above quilted terraces of rice. During Balinese festivals, hundreds of devout Hindus in ceremonial dress – the women carrying huge pyramids of fruit and flower offerings on their heads – can be seen solemnly climbing a giant stairway to pay homage to the gods.

One of the most dramatic temples in Bali is Pura Tanah Lot, dedicated to the sea spirits and founded by Nirartha,

The town of Bangli is not on the main tourist routes, but is worth a visit to see Pura Kehen, the state temple of the Bangli kingdom and the second largest in Bali. It is also one of the island’s most beautiful and impressive temples, set on a wooded hillside, its terraces lined with with religious statues.

The imposing entrance, with its fabulously carved doors depicting grotesque demons, is flanked by elephant heads.

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RESTAURANTS

SereS Springs Resort & Spa Jl. Jukut Paku, Singekerta, Ubud Opening October 2017

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 Buddha Bowl Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: +62 81339339928 Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 www.copperubud.com CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com Folk Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Folk Pool Gardens Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168 www.villabejiindah.com

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com B.Saya Villa and Restaurant Jl. Suweta, Ubud Phone: 0361 973496 www.bsaya.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Om Ham Retreat Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000352 www.omhamretreat .com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

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KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 ww.kafe-bali.com Nostimo Greek Grill Jl. Raya Pengosekan 108, Ubud Phone: +62 821 45735546 Monkey Legend Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0361 981611 www.monkeylegendubud.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978520 Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sayuri Healing Food Jl. Sukma 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080385 www.sayurihealingfood.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971352 Warung Siam Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: +62 81239655905 Yonne Cafe & Bar SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com

SPAS

SHOPS

Aura Theraphy Spa Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com

Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com

Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 973067 www.balihealingspa.com

Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0811 3882241 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Sang Spa 1 Reborn Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973236 www.sangspaubud.com Sriratih Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sala Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud AP Beauty Square Phone: 081 353314080 Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

GALLERIES Taksu Galleria Jl. Hanoman, Ubud www.taksuspa.com Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Hp: 085 103235151 www.sisibag.com SISI Jl. Sriwedari No.12, Ubud Hp: 085 100765895 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hp: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com UbudLife 73

SPORT/RECREATION

USEFUL NUMBERS Ambulance

Mason Adventure Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.masonadventures.com

Airport Authority

Ubud Horse Stables Phone: 081 339585666 www.ubudhorsestables.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074 Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338 Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Search and Rescue

EAST BALI SECTION

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com Villa Matanai Jasri Beach - East Bali Phone: +6281337611010 www.villamatanai.com

NORTH BALI SECTION The Hamsa Resort Jl. Air Terjun Sing-Sing, Lovina, Phone: +62 813 3719 4975 Amertha Bali Villas Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 94831 www.baliamerthavillas.com Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765

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Bali Police Department

Post Office

HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

118 751011

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605

UbudLife 75

Free Will

LAST WORD

Mark Ulyseas

We arrogantly believe that humans are the only beings on earth that have free will. That this earth and all in it and on it was created for us. We scuttle around clinging to our religious tomes and symbols fearful that if we don’t perform the ‘required’ ceremonies all will be lost. No surprise then… when Mother Nature comes calling in all her splendour laying waste all before her we retreat into our rat holes praying to the Almighty to forgive us for our sins…assuming that it is our sins that have caused the natural disaster in the place.

- Sitting on the so-called Pacific Ring of Fire, Indonesia has nearly 130 active volcanoes. It has been said that Mount Agung, the largest and most sacred mountain in Bali, is wrathful because the “bule” (white people) had sex and menstruated on the mountain (The Sydney Morning Herald).

This warped exceptionalism has become a genetic disorder.

Whether we like it or not we are just another species on earth, which Mother Nature treats equally with all other life forms. If a natural disaster occurs it is not retribution for our iniquities, but merely Mother Nature carrying out landscaping according to her grand design and not specific to life existing in an area.

It is our free will to reside within the Pacific Ring of Fire. So why complain when we are faced with a natural disaster like an erupting volcano? And why attribute it to Divine retribution?

Humanity has reached dangerous levels of self-indulgence.

We fiddle, experiment and destroy other life forms and the surrounding environs in our haste to satiate the inner cravings of the urge to rise above our biological life form.

Of course not all are lured into this trap. There are many among us who have turned their backs on this genocide of other species and are attempting to create a world cocooned from this bloodshed.

But this will not succeed for the only way out is in…into the labyrinth of consciousness to discover the Spirit of Life. And when we find it we will have found free will.

I shall leave you now with these words of C.S.Lewis: “There are only two kinds of people in the end: those who say to God, "Thy will be done," and those to whom God says, in the end, "Thy will be done." All that are in Hell, choose it. Without that self-choice there could be no Hell. No soul that seriously and constantly desires joy will ever miss it. Those who seek find. Those who knock it is opened.”

Free will is about choosing or not choosing to acknowledge the Universal Spirt… and not to run amok on planet earth.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

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