Ubud Life 34th Edition

UbudLife guide to ubud & beyond, bali lifestyle, people, arts, yoga, spirit, culture and cuisine

FIVE OF THE BEST THE ORIGINS OF BALI BENEATH THE VOLCANO DISASTER RELIEF HOLY WATER

VOLCANO ISSUE

free

EDITOR’S NOTE

Like Us!

facebook.com/ubudlifemagz

UbudLife MAG Om Swastiastu, Welcome to our special Volcano issue edition of Ubud Life. At the time of writing Bali’s much revered holy mountain, Gunung Agung is still threatening to erupt and disrupt the lives of many visitors to Bali.

But even more disruptive is the effect the mountain is having on the local folk who live on the slopes. Unceremoniously, they were moved from their villages to safer areas, further away, leaving behind their livestock and pets, their chickens and often even their valuables, taking only a few essentials along with them. Many have suffered trauma and stress and some of the older ones who remembered the last eruption of 1963, were even more disturbed.

Crowded into small spaces, in temporary camps, life is less than perfect for them. From one village there are 400 villagers sheltered under one big roof, with each family sharing a small area. Life is on hold. While there are school classes for the children, there and food, there is a continual state of expectancy – with no certain future in sight. Many have been there in camps since October last year. Some manage to go back to their village each day to feed their animals, if they can afford to buy petrol. It is a very hard time for everyone. In the south as tourist numbers dropped, many people lost their jobs, as there was simply no money to pay staff. Now that tourists are returning, we hope that the situation is easing.

And in the camps life goes on. Ok it is not the worst scenario, but it is uncomfortable and unsettling, not knowing what the future has in store. Many people have no income and they miss the daily routine of their lives, which are radically changed. Lets hope that it will all be resolved, in some manner, soon. There are some agencies who are doing great work and more help is always appreciated.

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om THE EDITOR

Cover photo by Ayu Sekar Gunung Agung, Bali’s holiest mountain is one of many moods. Here the mountain is quiet, benign, and lets pray that continues

8 UbudLife

editor ubudlife-gsb team creative graphic designer dedito ssn. photographer i gusti ketut windia sales and marketing ketut muliartani finance yukmang susilawati distribution ubudlife-gsb team contibutors ibu kat jenny b rachel love stephanie m jean couteau richard horstman publisher GSB (gemini studio bali) jalan gunung tangkuban perahu III/4, denpasar barat - bali 80361 p: 0361 8495479, 0361 8447982 e: sales@geministudio-bali.com w: www.ubudlife.com director putu santosa views expressed are not necessarily those of the editor’s and publisher’s. all material copyright ©2010 (gsb) gemini studio bali. the publisher will not be held responsible for copyright infringerment on images supplied by advertiser and, or contributors.

contents 18

FIVE OF THE BEST

48

UNDER THE VOLCANO DISASTER RELIEF

10 UbudLife

30

HOLY WATER

58

BESIDE THE RUMBLING VOLCANO

happenings around ubud Nights see thrilling world music playing at ARMA closer to town. Each year different acts are brought in from around the world – from Indian percussionists to Irish folk heroes. There is music to please all tastes.

This wonderful Festival, one of the best of its kind, runs from the 2-8th April. www.balispiritfestival.com

BALI SPIRIT FESTIVAL This year brings Bali’s 11th Bali Spirit Festival, which has been getting bigger and better each year. 7000 people are expected to attend in the lovely grounds of the Yaysan Purnati in Batuan, home of so many successful festivals already.

Six days of yoga and meditation, dance and music, designed to help both community and self transformation. International yoga teachers will hold free classes as well as other movement and healing classes - all too good to miss. Awahoshi will be performing her sound healing class and Ebony will teach yoga with her mission to buy a school bus to help with her Yoga N da Hood program which is designed to provide a mobile teaching venue for underprivileged kids in Dallas.

It is the rich cultural diversity which makes the festival so special as well as the Dharma Fair filled with stall selling eco friendly products, spiritual jewellery and great food.

12 UbudLife

PIZZA BAGUS HAS MOVED Pizza Bagus – has moved to their excellent new premises about 500 metres south of their old location. The two storied space has sofas and tables upstairs and regular seating below.

The deli is better stocked than ever, and they have kept their prices affordable. It is always a pleasant surprise to receive your bill here, which can escalate quite alarmingly in other restaurants around town.

Pizza Bagus - Jalan Raya Pengosekan T: 0361 978520

UbudLife 13

UBUD FOOD FESTIVAL Celebrates Indonesia’s ‘Generasi Inovasi’ From 13–15 April, 2018, Indonesia’s most outstanding chefs, producers, restaurateurs, foodpreneurs, food photographers and storytellers will converge in Bali for the Ubud Food Festival Presented by ABC (UFF), a three-day culinary adventure with Indonesian food as the star. In its fourth year, Indonesia’s leading culinary event will be energized with the theme ‘Generasi Inovasi’.

The theme is inspired by Indonesia’s young, tech-savvy population, who are driving the nation’s booming innovation economy.

Through the lens of ‘Generasi Inovasi’, UFF18 will celebrate innovative and sustainable ideas in Indonesia’s food industry, which are all creating a distinct food culture unique to the archipelago.

This year’s three-day program of highenergy cooking demos, decadent special events, in-depth discussions, and hands-on masterclasses with the industry’s best will feature speakers from across Indonesia, Asia and beyond. But first and foremost, UFF puts the best of Bali on the table. Among them are Tri Sutrisna, Manager of Wanaprasta, coffee aficionados I Kadek Edi and Wayan Arca, Pengalaman Rasa’s Gede and Ayu Gayatri Kresna, KAUM’s Wayan Kresnayasa, 14 UbudLife

proud Balinese farmer Kadek Suardika, and Nusantara by Locavore’s Putu Sumarjana.

“We’re so excited to bring together almost 100 speakers to dish up our fourth Ubud Food Festival,” commented DeNeefe. “From the Balinese farmers to the app designers, the social entrepreneurs to the world class chefs, they all show the reason why the world should be paying attention to Indonesia’s incredible creativity and ingenuity, and of course its fantastic food. We look forward to learning from these rising stars and culinary heroes with you in April, and feasting together too!”

Ubud Food Festival runs from 13 – 15 April, 2018, at Taman Kuliner on Jalan Raya Sanggingan. For all the information go to www.ubudfoodfestival.com.

NYEPI Bali’s day of silence rolls around again. It will begin on March 17th and end at 6am on Sunday March 18th. No planes will fly in or out of Bali’s Ngurah Rai Airport, no cars, bikes or buses will ply the roads. Traditionally this is a day for quiet introspection where people stay at home, don’t go out and meditate.

The night before the streets are filled with monstrous figures known as ogoh ogoh,

(possibly from the English word ogre) and processions fill the streets accompanied by fireworks and loud noises to scare the spirits out of their hiding places. After the noise of the previous evening, the peace and quiet of Nyepi comes as a welcome relief.

No noise, no traffic sounds, just the music of birdsong and the rushing rivers.

It is all done in an effort to trick the bad spirits into thinking that everyone has left the island, and it would be a good thing if they followed suite.

It is such a different way to celebrate the new year than we westerners are used to. No lights are used although now, lights are used sometimes. Cooking fires too are banned and families usually cook the day before.

But try to follow the tradition, which for many people is a very rewarding time to be in Bali.

Others choose to stay in a hotel or villa and celebrate in their own way but whichever way you celebrate, it is sure to be memorable. Imagine if every country followed Nyepi for one day a year. It could really make a dfference.

AQUALAND AT BALI WAKE PARK Right here in Benoa HArbour, just a short drive from Ubud, is Asia’s largest aqua park. The 5 star watersports and and water park just opened this January 2018, the new addition is open 7 days a week from 10am – 6pm.

Aqualand promises days of fun for both families and friends.

Besides boasting a sophisticated cable system for knee boarding, skurfing, skiing and wakeboarding, the Wake Park now has new additions. Inflatables over 8 meters high offer hours of family fun, even for teenagers and adult friends. Come and try it. In addition, for those who don’t want to get adventurously wet, there is a 10 mtr infinity pool with swim up bar and also a restaurant filled with delicious treats.

The great central location just along the tollway in Benoa makes it easily accessible from Sanur, Ubud as well as Kuta and Nusa Dua. Bali Wake Park, Jalan Pelabuhan Benoa 7X, Tel: 0361 8468866 | www.baliwakepark.com UbudLife 15

BALILA Balila located in Berbayu, just a few kilometres north or Amed on a turn off before Tulamben, Balila resort has one of the best vantage points for volcano watching. Whether you drop n for lunch or stay for a few days, you will see impressive views of the live Mt Agung and if you are lucky, you will even see real puffs of smoke issuing forth. Try their excellent organic food and you can even get the proprietor to give you a guided tour of their extraordinary eco-property where everything is done to certifiable levels of excellence. It is an interesting and enjoyable visit.

Balila Beach Resort Karangasem Regency, Bali T: 0817- 4778-334

TENGANAN Tenganan – going home Amidst tears and fond farewells, the villagers of Tanah Aron have packed up their scanty belongings and returned to their deserted village back up the mountain. After five months of camping at the Bali Aga village of Tenganan, the 400 plus villagers are taking their chickens and a few, their cows, to move back to their deserted village. This is a scenario being repeated all around the perimeters of Gunung Agung – a time of mixed feelings, although surely the most common feeling is relief at the chance to get on with their lives. They can move from their cramped confines within the village wantilan or meeting centre, where each family shared a space of around ten sq metres, where they slept and sat around when not outside. But being Balinese they accepted what was handed to them and made the best of the strange situation. Some of the women were weaving the tradiitonal kain gerinseng or double ikat that Tenganan is world famous for. Alive and unharmed, with the mountain calming down, perhaps for another forty years, as one famous Mangku suggests, they can pick up the threads of their lives, for better or worse.

It is still possible to donate to one of the fine organisations that were set up in Ubud. http://kopernik.info/project/mount-agung-emergency-response Or to Bumi Sehat – they are both doing excellent work http://www.bumisehatfoundation.org/donate-to-the-mount-agung-relief/ 16 UbudLife

FIVE OF THE BEST by ayu sekar

U

bud is crammed with great restaurants. Whatever you want is here – Turkish, Mediterranean, Italian by the score, Vegan, Indonesian, Balinese, Vegetarian, fine dining, fancy dining, expense, cheap, degustation, everything you can think of. And in between all this amazing array of choice, we all tend to choose our favourites. Here are some of mine – mostly low key with an emphasis on good food and the chance to talk.

KEBUN– one of the few Ubud restaurants

offering air conditioning, Kebun offers the most gorgeous environment as well as great food and an impressive and well priced wine list ( and cocktails). The food is like all your favourites on one menu – macaroni cheese with artisan cheeses, garlic prawns, Spanish style, great hamburgers, crispy fried calamari, beetroot and goat cheese salad, chocolate soufflé, just so many things to choose from. The staff are responsive and well decked out and the whole experience is a pleasure. Oh and their pizzas are to die for.

Kebun - 44, Jalan Hanoman, T: 0361 972 490 www.kebunbistro.com

18 UbudLife

UBUD EATING

KAGEMUSHA– hidden

away in a Nyuh Kuning garden, on the main road, this little Japanese hideaway focuses on Japanese home cooking of great value and variety. The Japanese chef is from Nagoya and her chicken wings (tebesaki) are the best.

The quiet garden setting offers an almost meditative atmosphere where you can talk without yelling and enjoy the food. Daily specials are listed on a board but the main menu is filled with must try options. Their simple vegetable dishes and their small samplers show what can be done with a little soy sauce and sesame seeds. Agedashi tofu, ika pire kara, (crispy squid fried with a sambal Bali), Onigiri, and a great mixed tempura, and a variety of miso soups are also available. A glass of Bali Brem or arak always goes well although there is also plum wine and sake.

Try their coconut panacotta with raspberry compote – its delicious!

Kagemusha - Jalan Raya Nyuh Kuning T: 0361 973134

TACO CASA Don’t even try to get a table during the high season, as the ever popular Casa Taco is always full. From the very day it opened, its fresh seasonal Tex Mex food has been drawing the crowds. All the favourites are here in this pared down menu where only the essentials count – the secret to keeping fast and fresh.

Crispy beef tacos are the best and there is fresh tomato salsa and guacamole, burritos, nachos, wraps all brimming with flavour and delicious – this is the secret of their great success. This plus a great, friendly staff who are always ready to help. Oh as well as ice cold beer, there are margaritas by the jugful, or by the glass. Mid afternoon is a good time as it usually quieter.

Casa Taco - Jalan Raya Pengosekan, T: 081 224 222 357 UbudLife 19

PICA Last but by no means least is another teeny eatery in Jalan Dewi Sita. This South American offers up delicious and authentic South American dishes served in their small but chic restaurant that opens on to a small terrace above the road. Fish and seafood plays an important part in their men with the best ceviche around, as well as grilled fish of the day, empanadas, octopus, pork belly and more mysterious South American specialities. But their steak! The Bife Ancho Steak is a huge 300 grams of black angus rib eye which is easily enough for two, and is to die for. Luscious rich and tender, served with a chimicurri sauce, you simply cannot imagine its goodness.

The restaurant is not bargain priced at all, but it it worth every rupiah. Long may it continue to garner rave reviews from its happy clientele.

Pica - Jalan Dewi Sita, T: 0361 97166

LARAMONA TAPAS UBUD Squeezed between barely bigger restaurants, this teeny hole in the wall is entered by a low key entrance through a narrow corridor. Blink and you will miss it. It which opens to a small and eclectically cosy room. A glass of wine and a selection of their really delectable tapas makes for a memorable meal. Small and unpretentious, it offers a bohemian atmosphere where you can relax and enjoy. It even pleases vegetarians with their imaginative Spanish styled offerings. Desserts and wines are also available.

Laramona - No. 9 Jalan Dewi Sita, T: 0361 978 954 www.cp-lounge.com

20 UbudLife

UbudLife 21

THE ORIGINS OF BALI by jean couteau

T

his is the second month of the Balinese year, the Sasih Karo. The shrill chirping of the birds announces the coming of the sun, as it rises, dissipates the coolness of the night. Dew is glistening under the reddish rays of dawn.

Unheeding of cold and sun, one man is meditating on the slopes of the Gunung Agung, the cosmic mountain of Bali, which was then a part of Java. His name is Empu Bekung. He has gone meditating from mountain to mountain, to be granted the only favour he wishes - a son. His meditation is so steadfast and strong that it shakes the abode of the gods, and that Batara Besuki, the Dragon God, at last shows himself and calls out, "Hey you, Bekung. What might be the purpose of your meditation that you dare disturb me thus in my godly abode.

"I apologize to you, O my god," replies Empu Bekung, “I have kept asking for a long time from the gods to be bestowed a son. And now I come to you at last from as far as Java so that my favor would be granted."

"If such is your wish, Bekung," says the god", I'll grant you a son, on the condition that you present me with an offering of honey with an egg every fortnight. And when you make this offering to me, don't forget to use the "pasepan" fragrant fire with coconut fibers.

Do it even though Java is a distant place from my Balinese abode."

Having heard the words of the god, Empu Bekung returned to Java. And from there, he dutifully fulfilled, every fortnight, his promise 24 UbudLife

to the god. One day, as he was addressing his offering, a beautiful baby appeared from within the smoke of the pasepan.

His skin was as red as fire, so he was named Ida Bagus Manik Angkeran. After the birth, Bekung faithfully addressed the dragon-god, with Basuki prayers of worship, with the promised egg and honey and the pasepan fire.

The boy grew up, but to his father’s despair, instead of studying the Scriptures and meditating, he took to gambling, spending all his father’s wealth, until the latter was left with nothing but his son’s debts.

A few days later, it was time again for Empu Bekung to go to the foot of the Mountain, to Gunung Agung and present Basuki with his fortnight offerings. He had barely reached the place and lit his offering, that the god, already aware of his needs, showed himself up and, shaking his long tail, told him with a smile: “Hey, Bekung my friend, you are in dire need, but do not worry too much and go back to Java”. Meanwhile, while he talked, from his shaking tail, golden coins were falling in golden showers. Pan Bekung collected them thankfully and took his leave to Java. Seeing him coming with a big pouch of gold, his wife inquired: “Hey, Bekung, where did you get all

CULTURAL TALES that gold”, to which he replied in a hush: “I got it from the tail of Sang Hyang Besuki,” he said, “but let’s not talk so loudly, lest our son overhears us talking”. But the warning was too late. The young man had already heard what his parents were saying.

When the time came for the next offering to Basuki, Empu Bekung was unfortunately sick. So he asked his son to make the trip and present in his name the offering to the god.

And he advised his son in these words: " If you see the god, tell him that you were sent by me to present the offering. I do not doubt that Basuki will accept your homage as if it were mine. Ida Bagus Angkeran nodded.

But he had seen the gold, and upon leaving, besides the offering implements, he also surreptitiously slipped a sword amongst his equipment. Then, having been told by his father the magic formula needed to call the god, he rushed to the Gunung Agung in haste. He had barely started his prayer than the dragon god came out from his cave and said: " Who are you, Oh, young man, who dares disturb me in my rest in the Pasar Agung? " " I am Empu Bekung's son", he replied, and I come in person to bring you my father’s offerings, as he is sick." The god, happy that Pan Bekung had not forgotten his duty, said: "Hey, Angkeran, wait a minute, my son, as you too need a favor from me", and he turned back and entered his cave again. It was the moment Ida Bagus Angkeran had bee waiting for. He drew his sword, swiftly cut the dragon's tail and ran away with his golden booty. The god Basuki was caught as much by surprise as by pain, but he was not a powerful god for nothing, and cursing loudly at the culprit, he hit the footsteps of the fleeing Angkeran.

The young man immediately, stumbled into his steps and burned on the spot. Of him there remained only a heap of ash.

Meanwhile, at home, Pan Bengkung, was worried. His son did not come back. Some mishap may have happened to him. He set out praying, but to no avail. The youth would not come back. He decided to go and search for him. So he went to his temple to fetch his sacred sword, but the sword was not there. He understood that Ida Bagus Manik had stolen his sacred weapons to go on some errand of his own. His darkest fear was confirmed when, on his way to Bali to consult with Sang Hyang Basuki, he saw ashes next to a big pine tree with his sword a few meters away. Only then did he know for certain that his son had been killed. He nevertheless carried on his way to pay his homage to Sang Hyang Basuki, At first, the god would not come out of Pasar Agung as his tail, which had just been cut, was still painful. But Pan Bekung was a skilled man of prayer, and, using his powerful Bajra Mantra, he eventually forced the god out of his cave.

Upon coming out, the god asked: "Hey, you Pan Bekung why do you again use that mantra of yours. Can't you leave me alone for a while." To which Pan Bekung replied: "I offer you may apologies, O great Sang Hyang Basuki, but I want to know what happened to my son. Did he come to you with food and ask for a -favor?" "O, yes, I saw him indeed," answered the god with evil intentions. He cut that tail of mine, so I burned him to ashes."

Pan Bekung was surprised at the god's word.

He knew indeed his son to be gambler, but he did not know he would go as far as cutting the god's tail. But Pan Bekung was not at wit's end and replied : "Since he cut your tail, I will stick it back in place. The dragon was pleased, but worried at the same time. He inquired:" Can you restore it completely without any scab? If not, I would rather keep my tail as it is now." and to be continued part 2 next issue UbudLife 25

BALI AND ITS SOUL CONNECTION WITH WATER by ibu kat • images ayu sekar

30 UbudLife

HOLY WATER

W

ater surrounds the island of Bali, falls from the sky, courses down the riverbeds, nourishes the rice fields, springs from solid rock in deep ravines and, as holy water, blesses the rituals and offerings that are an integral part of Balinese culture.

Early in the morning while praying to greet the sunrise and bless the world, the Pedanda starts a small, slow fire of fragrant woods in an incense burner. He or she overturns a glass or ceramic bowl over it to capture the smoke and the essence of the aromatics. When the container is full of smoke, the pedanda quickly rights it, immediately fills it with water from a sacred source and covers it so the water is infused with the smoke.

If you’ve spent much time in Bali you’ll be familiar with the daily offerings sprinkled with holy water. If you’ve prayed Balinese-style, you have been blessed with it.

Holy water will be from one or more of three sources: the house of a high priest (Pedanda), a sacred spring or other natural source, or the ocean. Sea water or tirta segara is important in the Melaspas or cleansing ceremony three days before Nyepi and certain other rituals.

How does ordinary water (toya) become holy water (tirta)?

When the Pedanda or other high priest recites the mantras called mapuja, s/he invokes the energy of the five great rivers of India to enter the holy water. Then more prayers are chanted relating to the five sacred syllables (panca aksara), conjuring their power into the toya to form the Great Tirta or Mother of Holy Water. Belief in the power of harmonic energy or sound in the form of prayers and mantras transforms toya to tirta. After praying, aromatic flowers are tossed into the water; the Balinese believe that flowers are the symbols in which reside the essence of their prayers.

Holy water hums with energy. Anyone who has ever sipped it from cupped palms knows the smoky flavour, the fragrance of flowers, the cool sweetness of it.

The water from young yellow or green coconuts (bungkak) can also be consecrated by a Pedanda and used to cleanse people, objects and buildings.

There is unlikely to be a Pedanda in Toronto, Tokyo or Timbuktu. If a Balinese overseas needs holy water, ordinary people can consecrate pure water from sacred sources by intention and the harmonic power of prayer.

UbudLife 31

At sacred springs, the toya has special powers.

The springs at Tirta Empul in Tempaksiring have been used to cleanse the living and the dead since the 10th century. There are two spigots from which people can draw water to take home. One (bersikan) is for the cleansing of the corpse. The other (pangentas) blesses the journey by water of the ashes after the cremation when they are released into a river or the sea; both are equally powerful in disseminating the spirit.

The role of water in the cultivation of rice is central to the Bali Hindu culture and pre-dates the influence of the Majapahit beginning in the 13th century. Bali has about 1,200 subak or rice farming cooperatives that manage and share irrigation water. These complex water distribution systems have been engineered over a millenia to bring water from rivers and volcanic crater lakes through mountain tunnels, canals and weirs (diversionary dams) to nurture the island’s rice terraces. Each subak has its own water temple dedicated to the rice Goddess Dewi Sri. These days it’s hard to understand of the importance of the rice crop in Bali. Life revolved around rice, which fed the people and created wealth for the rulers. According to the book ‘Priests and Programmers’, a fascinating analysis of Bali’s engineered landscapes by anthropologist Stephen Lansing, one of the earliest known writings in the Balinese language in the 8th century referred to the builders of irrigation tunnels.

The oldest human settlements in Bali are concentrated in the best rice growing areas.

It was all about rice.

Before the rainy season every year, priests from each subak gather at Lake Batur Temple to pay respect to the spirit of water, Dewi Danu. These priests are very knowledgeable about rice farming and water availability.

32 UbudLife

The heads of each subak also gather here and together they discuss how the rice crops will be synchronised within subaks and from one subak to another. Every subak of between 50 and 400 rice farmers cooperates not only within itself, but with every other subak in its watershed. They must coordinate the amount of water used in each subak to ensure they all receive an equal amount according to the size of the rice fields.

This ancient cooperation around controlled irrigation created a very effective form of pest control. Since all the farmers in the same subak planted and harvested their crops at the same time and either flooded or burned the stalks, nothing was left for the rats and insects.

Cultivating the rice crop involves both toya and tirta. First the seeds are planted in a small nursery which has its own shrine where offerings are placed to ensure good germination. There are more offerings when planting the rice out in the fields and again when the rice flowers. Just before the rice is harvested, the rice goddess Dewi Sri is invoked and asked for permission to cut the rice.

The first rice to be cut is fashioned into a doll or effigy representing Dewi Sri and placed on a temple in the field until the harvest is over. When the harvested rice is carried to the house and rice barn, the effigy accompanies it. A final ritual of ‘sitting down’ the rice goddess in the lumbung with the rice closes the harvest cycle.

Like the rice, the Balinese people are nourished with toya and blessed with tirta.

And the transformation of an ordinary element into a holy one is part of the everyday magic of this magical place.

UbudLife 33

BALI FREE MAP We reach across the island - everywhere in bali! make your advertising dollar go further and be seen on our complete big BALI MAP!

INFO TEL: 081353320709 or [0361] 8495479

A LIFETIME EXPERIENCE B

aliSpirit Festival continues to reign as Bali’s biggest, unique and most popular yoga and music festival, drawing over 7000 people from around the world to Ubud each year. This year the 11th edition of BaliSpirit Festival will take place over 6 days and 7 nights from April 2-8 at Yayasan Bali Purnati.

BaliSpirit Festival includes 6 days of unlimited workshops in yoga, dance, meditation and breathwork and 7 nights of night music concerts.

It is an uplifting, high-vibe energy-filled week of yoga, music, dance and meditation which facilitates dynamic self-transformation and unites community. The practice of karma yoga, community and giving back is strongly felt at BaliSpirit Festival, one of the core

reasons so many people keep coming back year after year to their spiritual and ‘yoga mecca’ as you will. The nonprofit festival began in 2007 (by co-founders Kadek Gunarta, Meghan Pappenheim and Rob Weber) for the purpose of building an economically and environmentally sustainable annual event, to support the local community and bring visitors back to Bali after the devastating effects from the Bali bombings in the early 00s. The Co-Founders wanted to put Ubud and Bali back on the map through an annual festival of cultural diversity, yoga, world music and dance. The festival has continued to grow in size and popularity year after year and has raised over US$100,000 for its annual outreach programs and partner charities.

BaliSpirit Festival is unique among yoga and music festivals with its rich cultural diversity of East meets West across the programming as well as the strong conscious community of both attendees and locals. Attendees experience a plethora of Balinese culture and spirituality through hundreds of workshops in mesmerizing nature, which aim to inspire attendees to reconnect to their purpose and to give back in their home communities post festival.

BaliSpirit Festival Tickets offer attendees unlimited access to yoga, movement and healing workshops and day and nighttime music events as well as the bustling conscious community market (Dharma Fair) with a variety of eco-friendly clothing, jewelry and healthy locally sourced food.

There are over 200 workshops in yoga, healing, personal development seminars,

music, dance throughout the week and a range of different tickets to choose for all budgets. There are over 25 different yoga styles including Mandala Vinyasa Flow, Dynamic Spiral and Yin Yoga, Advanced Jivamukti Yoga, Budokon Yoga, Blindfolded and Anusara Yoga, Kundalini Tantra Yoga and more.

BaliSpirit Festival provides transformational and spiritually enhancing experiences for attendees year after year. Participants have described it as ‘life changing’, ‘uplifting’ and ‘inspirational’. To try something new, reconnect to yourself and be part of this euphoric week join BaliSpirit Festival at Bali Purnati, Ubud from April 2-8 or find out more details on their website: www. balispiritfestival.com or follow them on Instagram: @balispiritfest

Feeding THE Needy

by stephanie m • images ayu sekar

I

n the wake of Mount Agung’s eruption and subsequent erratic behaviour, many people are wondering how to lend a helping hand to the Balinese people most affected by the volcano.

While cash donations to relief organisations are highly encouraged, there are also a number of cafes and restaurants in Ubud that make contributing to the cause as easy as having cup of coffee, a meal or a glass of wine.

Kahiyang Coffee House Arjuna

Bridges Bali

Located just behind Ubud’s colossal Arjuna statue, Kahiyang Coffee is both a chilled out coffee house and the logistics hub of Agung Siaga, a cooperative at the forefront of the Mount Agung relief effort. Here you can donate goods and cash that will go directly to the camps that need it most, all while sampling rare varieties of coffee from around Indonesia that have been roasted in-house. Even better, the team at Kahiyang works closely with Indonesian coffee farmers to help them improve their crops and sell their harvest at fair prices, so each cold brew your drink or bag of beans you buy helps improve the lives of Indonesian farmers and their families.

You would be hard pressed to find a more scenic spot to dine and drink for a good cause than Bridges Bali. This chic wine bar and fine dining restaurant is perched on the side of a ravine overlooking the Wos River, and it consistently earns the title of Ubud’s most romantic restaurant. Have a glass of vino and some tasty tapas at Divine Wine Bar before making your way to the open-sided dining room for traditional Balinese cuisine with a temporary twist. On your way out, you can make a donation to the Mount Agung refugees at the cashier. Bridges Bali delivers goods directly to the camps and also works with Soleman and Kopernik to raise muchneeded funds for relief efforts.

Jalan Raya Andong | T: +62 0361 972 824 www.kahiyangcoffee.com

Jalan Raya Campuhan | T: +62 0361 970 095 www.bridgesbali.com

40 UbudLife

HELPING HANDS

Lovin Bar

BetelNut

Like the name suggests, Lovin is all about the love, especially for those in need of a helping hand. This restaurant and late-night jamming spot, is owned by Komang Merry, who also founded the Ginantri Foundation, a nonprofit organisation that provides education, housing and healthy meals to underprivileged children in Bali. When Mount Agung erupted, the Ginantri Foundation and Lovin Bar began delivering supplies to refugee camps and supporting children who had been displaced from their homes. For every drink or meal that you buy at Lovin, a portion of the proceeds goes towards helping these children have a better standard of life and a shot at a brighter future.

Although the Mount Agung refugees are top priority when it comes to relief efforts, many Balinese people in the hospitality industry have also been deeply affected by the volcano. In Bali NOW is a campaign that was formed to support and rejuvenate the tourism industry, and one of the ways they are doing this is with weekly meet-ups every Thursday evening at BetelNut. The goal is to bring together tourism professionals, disaster management experts and any other interested parties to brainstorm ideas on how to bounce back from the crisis. All are welcome to join the conversation. While you’re there, be sure to sample some of BetelNut’s vibrant Asian noodles, satays and salads.

Jalan Sukma 45 | T: +62 0812 3928 5957 www.facebook.com/lovinbar www.ginantri.org

Bali Direct How brilliant is it that even here in smalltown Ubud, we can go online and with just the click of a few buttons have groceries delivered right to our doors? Bali Direct is a home delivery service that works closely with local producers to bring us organic fruits and veggies, free-range meats, freshly baked bread, cold-pressed coffee, spices, beauty supplies and more. They recently partnered with Bumi Sehat to provide fresh vegetables, tempe and tofu to over 100 evacuees who are currently living at the Bumi Sehat clinic.

You can also give the gift of fresh, healthy food by visiting Bali Direct’s website to make a donation, and they will deliver it to Bumi Sehat on your behalf.

T: +62 821 4470 6510 www.balidirectstore.com

Jalan Raya Ubud | T: +62 0361 6197 1426 www.facebook.com/inBaliNOW/ www.dekco.com

9 Angels Warung When Mount Agung started billowing smoke and ash back in September, 9 Angels Warung was one of the first Ubud restaurants to respond by opening their kitchen to volunteers and cooking hundreds of meals every day to be delivered to the refugee camps. Although the volunteer kitchen has been put on hold for the time being, 9 Angels still hosts fundraisers and works closely with Agung Siaga to help raise money for fresh food and essentials for the refugees. Stop by for one of their fun open mike nights, hit up their healthy vegan buffet, and drop whatever you can afford in their donation box. After all, every little bit helps.

Jalan Suweta 32 | T: +62 0817 776 768 www.facebook.com/9angelswarung/ UbudLife 41

Spirit of Bali words and image ayu sekar

While the gamelan send out sounds of beauty, the villagers sit below talking, laughing and eating. Life goes on with all its richness and variety.

46 UbudLife

VOLCANO LIFE

UNDER THE VOLCANO DISASTER RELIEF by ibu kat • image ayu sekar

Sometimes it takes a disaster to bring people together.

Since the government began to evacuate villagers in the immediate danger zones near the crater in late September, as many as 70,000 people have been moving in and out of over 200 temporary shelters. The population of evacuees fluctuates constantly as volcanic conditions change.

Although there is little danger to people living outside the evacuation zones, about 100,000 people have homes, farms and animals within 12 km of the crater. Over the last six months they have been living in extreme uncertainty

U

bud’s population is a patchwork of Balinese, other Indonesians, foreign long-term residents and tourists, with a bit of overlap here and there. It’s a chill little burg where people generally follow their own trajectories. But when Mount Agung began to rumble back in September, strangers started to come together seeking ways to help the thousands of displaced families and abandoned animals.

The Balinese are deeply rooted in their land, bound at the soul level to their temples and ancestors who abide there. Forced to leave at short notice carrying very little, many were deeply traumatized. Evacuees were cold, wet, hungry and distressed. The government and private groups struggled -- and still do -- to provide toilets, safe drinking water, shelter, food and basic household and health necessities.

Forced to leave without their livestock, many have been crossing back and forth into the danger area every day to check on and feed their cows and chickens. In times of quiet, they return to their homes, only to be reevacuated when Mount Agung again begins to threaten a major eruption.

UbudLife 47

At time of writing (early February) eruptions have been minor. But Mount Agung has a history of taking months to build up to what can be a major eruption. Highly experienced vulcanologists have been monitoring the volcano very closely since September but it’s impossible to foresee when the ‘big one’ will occur. By the time you read this, it may have already happened. Between 55-70,000 people live in the zone of immediate danger from pyroclastic flows, lahar and lava flows, and major ash falls.

The people living in Bali -- locals, foreign residents and visitors -- have big hearts. As soon as news of the evacuees reached Ubud, people began to mobilise to help them.

Here is a list of some of the ad hoc organisations which are aiding the displaced, and how you can help. Please note that you don’t need to have a Paypal account in order to donate through Paypal.

Mount Agung Relief (MAR) is a collaboration between Kopernik, IDEP, Bumi Sehat, Bali ZEN, Rucina Ballinger, Rio Helmi and Green School parents. It coordinates closely with government bodies as well as other civil society initiatives, including Agung Siaga “We obtain data from the coordinators we have been working with in the field to identify which camps have current needs,” a Mount Agung Relief (MAR) spokesperson told me.

“MAR’s core focus is on community education and policy advocacy. We also provide water filters and training on their maintenance and cleaning, distribute face masks and help communities develop sustainable infrastructure.”

MAR is also working with groups to identify and establish sustainable livelihoods, and provide education on health and hygiene needs such as building of toilets and hand 48 UbudLife

washing stations, dengue prevention, ash protection and waste management.

Donate to MAR through Kopernik via its website or at Bank Mandiri, Branch: KCP Ubud 14510, Account Name: Yayasan Kopernik, Account: 145-00-1804889-8 Agung Siaga Community (AS) is a small group of people connecting donors with the immediate needs of evacuees. Agung Siaga uses its donations to purchase and deliver rice, fresh produce, personal hygiene kits and much more. Team members learn of needs through the constantly updated MAR maps and other sources.

“At Agung Siaga we are very responsive, getting food to people,” says Riri, a volunteer from Jakarta. “Food costs about Rp 10,000 per person per day, so cash donations are very important to us. We get data from MAR about what camps need food, then we purchase and deliver it, sometimes to multiple camps.

While there, we make detailed field reports which MAR uses to update its logistics map.

Donate to Agung Siaga through Paypal to mountagung.ubud2@gmail.com Sidemen Crisis Centre Mount Agung is a small group of people in the mountain village of Sideman who scrambled to provide shelter and support for 550 people and numerous cows, pigs and goats evacuated from the danger zone in September. When most of the evacuees returned to their villages in December, the group transferred its activity to feeding dogs which had been abandoned in the danger zone, and have distributed over 20 tons of food to date. They will continue to provide help and support to people and animals as funds allow wherever the need is most urgent. Please donate by PayPal to BarbaraSuriada@gmail.com

Bali Animal Welfare Association (BAWA) has been sending volunteers into the danger zone for months to feed abandoned dogs and rescue those that are sick or wounded. It has established and maintains many shelters for dogs from the red zone. The feed bills are high and constant, please donate through http://bawabali.com/donate-to-bawa Team Action Amed was caring for about 5,000 evacuees in several camps until they were able to go home in December. The team continues to fundraise and plan in the case of a major disruptive eruption when they expect at least as many evacuees to return to the Amed area. In the interim they continue to accumulate funds and supplies to meet the needs of the camps for one month until NGO/ government support takes over. Donations can be sent via Paypal to teamactionamed@ gmail.com

They have six donation drop off points in Bali for personal hygiene products, face masks, rice.

IDEP continues to coordinate with the camps and fulfil the evacuees' basic needs through its Family Bucket system. The organisation is expanding its emergency response network with other parties (including donors) to ensure that the needs of evacuees and other affected communities will be met, especially in the areas which are not covered by the local government. IDEP continues to disseminate information on how to respond to eruptions, health and sanitation, and other campaigns related to the threat of eruption.

Another focus is building community empowerment and resilience.

Donate to IDEP at http://www.bit.ly/IDEPFUND.Â

NOW THE MOUNTAIN HAS BEEN DECLARED SAFE ANDÂ MOST OF THE VILLAGERS ARE RETURNING HOME TO FACE A NEW SET OF PROBLEMS AND GET ON WITH THEIR LIVES.

UbudLife 49

Ayung Resort

Nacho Mama

Putri Bali Spa

Kopi Kat

Palm

Bintang Super Market

Wayan Karja

Terracota

Bali Healing Museum Puri Lukisan Griya

Why Not

Dalem Temple

Warung Merta Sari

Folk, Nomas Folk Pool Gardens

Copper Kitchen & Bar

Sri Ratih & Spa La Pacha Mama

Bridges Divine

Skin Spa

Villa Beji

MA S O K W AYA H

U

NI

Yin

Kunci

Kayma Spa

Nani Spa

We’are

Studio Perak

Warung Sopa Kebun

Sang Spa

SenS Yonne Sayuri

TM

8B Lounge B Side

Highway Neka

Taksu Galleria

Milano Spa Kunci Down To Earth Cendana

Warung Citta

Bolero

Warung Citta Nord

B.Saya Villa & Restaurant

Nomad Nirmala BPD Wr Siam Skin Biah Biah Fresh Soma Nirmala

Ubud Sari

Kopi Coffee Sensatia

A SUB

UUK M K J A

S

Pepito

White Box

Red Lotus

Korurua

Gunung Merta Bungalow

Bale Udang Bebek Tepi Sawah Tepi Sawah Resort N. Sumerta Gallery

WORLD MAP

Pilar Batu Sala Pizza Bagus Kafe Topi

Taman Beji Spa

Garden Sopa

ISLAND OF BALI

UBUD LOCATION

Sisi

Arma Museum Arma Rsort Kafe Arma The Sunti

Biah-Biah+

Sari Api Greenfield Buddha Bowl Goddess Jaens Spa Panorama Nostimo

The Pond

Monkey Legend

Cocoon

Studio Perak

de’ waRung

UBUD

Villa Beji Indah

SereS

Putri Ubud Spa

Sang Spa

Studio Perak

BSF Yoga Barn, KUSH

THE REPUBLIC OF INDONESIA

Ubud, Ubud,lies liesinin the the heart heart of of Bali, Bali, in the centre of the fertile southern rice growing plains. Fertility means much more than the simple sawah or rice fields, it refers to the huge flowering of the arts which happens all around this magical town. Ubud is the home to the arts. Painting, music, dance and gamelan as well as woodcarving, maskmaking and sculpture have attracted visitors for decades.

Pepito

Artists Artistsalso alsoapply applytheir their skills skills to to making making attractive things for visitors.

Whole streets, attractive things for visitors. Whole streets, like the Tegallalang Road are lined with like the Tegallalang Road are lined with crafts shop making clever knick knacks to crafts shop making clever knick knacks to tempt buyers. tempt buyers.

Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas Out from Ubud are magnificent vistas to to view and temples and wonderous sights view and temples and wonderous sights to to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to enjoy. Around Ubud there is plenty to keep keep a visitor busy for days. Enjoy! a visitor busy for days. Enjoy!

...

UbudLife 51

ubud palace-open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini arma-open stage ubud water palace-open stage bentuyung village batu karu temple-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm

legong dances barong & keris dance kecak ramayana & fire dance women performance

ubud palace-open stage wantilan padang tegal kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

ramayana ballet kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong telek trance culture

ubud palace-open stage jaba pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod kertha accommodation-monkey forest st arma-open stage bale banjar ubud kelod

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

wed

legong & barong dance mask dance [topeng jimat] wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance kecak fire & trance dance jegog [bamboo gamelan]

ubud palace-open stage arma-open stage ubud main road-oka kartini yamasari stage-peliatan open stage padang tegal kaja-open stage pura dalem ubud-open stage

7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.00 pm

thu

kecak [monkey chant dance] legong dance the barong & keris dance kecak fire & trance dance wayang wong dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet]

puri agung peliatan jaba pura desa kutuh pura dalem ubud-open stage pura taman sari-padang tegal kelod bale banjar ubud kelod pondok bambu-monkey forest st

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm

fri

barong dance legong dance kecak and fire dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] jegog [bamboo gamelan] barong & keris dance

ubud palace-open stage balerung stage peliatan pura padang kertha-padang tegal kelod ubud main road-oka kartini bentuyung village arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 8.00 pm 7.00 pm 6.00 pm

legong dance legong dance frog dance legong dance kecak fire & trance dance the magic of jegog

ubud palace-open stage ubud water palace bale banjar ubud kelod pura dalem ubud-open stage pura dalem taman kaja-open stage arma-open stage

7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm 7.30 pm 7.30 pm 7.00 pm

every 1st and 15th: gambuh dance

pura desa batuan-open stage

7.00 pm

tue mon sun

legong of mahabrata kecak fire & trance dance wayang kulit [shadow puppet] legong dance janger dance jegog [bamboo gamelan] kecak fire & trance dance

sat

ubud cultural dance performances

52 UbudLife

TIPS

pura protocol

Tips for how to visit one of Bali’s fabulous temples A

s visitors to Bali we like to know how to visit a temple graciously.

Here are a few guidelines to help make a visit more enjoyable. Enjoy!

The Balinese are quite open and generally welcome visitors. You can enter most temples freely. Wear a sash around the waist and preferably a sarong. Big temples can hire a sarong at the front gate but it is nice to have your own. You can buy a sash and sarong at Ubud market or Sukawati where the choice is limitless.

When there is a ceremony on, the Balinese believe the gods have descended to the temple for the duration. All prayer and dance is performed for the benefit of the gods rather than the tourists. Be respectful.

Women who are menstruating must wait outside.

Priests (Pedanda) are well respected and the most important person at the ceremony. They occupy the highest position. Show respect and don’t try to climb on scaffolding or steps higher than the officiating priest to get a better view or photo.

If you visit a holy spring like Pura Tirtha Empul and decide to try bathing, keep your clothes on and leave the shampoo behind. It is not a bath, but an immersion in holy water, for a spiritual cleansing.

Expect to pay a small donation before entering a temple. These donations are put to good use, and help with the upkeep of the grounds and the temple itself.

UbudLife 53

LEGEND:

Provincial capital

Town

Places of interest

Village

Mountain

MENJANGAN ISLAND

BAL

Pemuteran Reef Building

Ja v a Fer r y to Cekik

Labuhan lalang

Sumberkelampok

Blimbingsari

Klatakan

Gerokgak

Pe

a B e a ch

Antur

Lovina

Bestala Mayong Busungbiu

Pancoran

Mt. Mesehe 1344

BA

Pangkungdedari Melaya

vin

Kalibukbuk Labuhan Haji Kaliasem Pengastulan Temukus Kalisada Seririt Dencarik Tigawasa Bubunan Banjar Sidetapa Tegallenga Ringdikit Cempaga Asah Goble

Mt. Musi 1224

Mt. Merbuk 1386

Sumbersari

Temple

A

Puri Jati [muck-diving]

Celukan Bawang

Taman Nasional Bali Barat (West Bali National Park)

E I S

Lo

Sumberkima Goris Banyuwedang

Secret Bay

Gilimanuk

LETKOL WISNU AIRSTRIP Pulaki Banyupoh Kertakawat Pemuteran Gondol Melanting Penyabangan Musi

Lake

Gobleg

Tambling Mund

Subuk

LI

Candikusuma

Pupuan Pujungan Mt

Tegalasih

ST R

Airanakan

A

Banyubiru

IT

NEGARA

Cupel Munduk

Sanda

Rambutsiwi Yehsumbul Yehembang Pesinggahan Mede wi B eac Medewi h

Yehkuning

Perancak

Bat

Manggissari Asahduren

Mendoyo Yehbuah Delod Berawah

Munduk

Batungsel

Tista

Batuagung

DISTANCE [in kilometer]

Belimbing

Ampadan

BANGLI BESAKIH

Balia

CANDI DASA

Balian Beach

DENPASAR GIANYAR

Suraberata Selemad Antosari n B Lalanglinggah Bajera Ba ea ch Soka Soka Bea ch Kerambi Beraban

GILIMANUK

IN

GOA GAJAH GOA LAWAH

O

N

Tanah

E

GUNUNG KAWI

D

Tib

S

IA

AMLAPURA

C

N

OC

SEMARAPURA KUTA

C

EA

LAKE BATUR

N

LEGIAN LOVINA AIRPORT

INT

NUSA DUA SANUR SINGARAJA TANAH LOT UBUD ULUWATU

54 UbudLife

Padang Sulub

Uluw

Airport/Airstrip

Air Sanih

Sangsit Kubutambahan Beji

Bungkulan

emaron

ran Panji

Bukti

Jagaraga Bila

SINGARAJA Banyuning

Tamblang

Sukasada

Pacung

Julah Bondalem Tejakula Les

Tegal

Pegayaman Gitgit

Asahpanji

Catur

Mt. Catur 2096 Kembangmerta

Tembok Muntidesa

Bayun

Yehketipat

Bantang Penulisan

Kintamani

Lake Bratan

Bedugul Pekarangan Baturiti

tukaru

Apuan

Wongaya

T ul a

Sekardadi

Tulamben

Pengotan Penyebah

Sandakan

Seribatu

Taro

Besakih

Kayubihi

Amed

Jemeluk Wall Bunutan Reef Japanese Wreck

Jemeluk Bunutan

Pempatan Buyan

Puhu

Buahan Petang Pujung Luwus

Culik

Mt. Agung 3142

Kayuambua

Angantiga

m

Mt. Abang 2153

Penulisan Nungkung

t. Batukaru Pacung 2276 l Soka Jatiluwih Senganan

Kedisan

Penelokan

Pelaga

Lake Batur

y n Ba

Candi Kuning

Baturinggit Kubu Rubaya

Trunyan

be

gan duk

Tianyar

Mt. Batur Batur 1717

Pancasari

Lake Buyan Lake Tamblingan

Penuktukan

Sambirenteng

Gentah

Bakungan Penginyahan

k

eg

BALI MAP

Surfing spots

Diving spots

Harbour

Ababi

Abang

Gili Selang Lempuyang

Tirta Gangga Mt. Seraya Menanga 1175 Muncan AMLAPURA Seraya Selat Payangan Bebandem Tampaksiring Rendang Iseh Bangbang Bukit Bucu BANGLI Subagan Kuwum Ceking Sibetan Tembuku Sindu Buruan Ujung Saren Padpadan Kawan Sidakarya Marga Sembung Bunutan Tegallalang Paseban Asak Jasri Ngis Tenganan Jasri Batusari Timbrah Petak Manggis Sidemen Bugbug Petulu Timpag Wanasari Sangeh Buitan deg Sibang Bongkasa Ulakan Candidasa Talibeng Selat Sengkidu Biaha UBUD Blahkiuh antas Alas Kedaton Mimpang Akah Blayu Peliatan h Bedulu Padangbai A m u k B a n d i Tepekong c KLUNGKUNG ) a d as a Be ay bok Denkayu Abiansemal Silayukti Sidan Tihingan Samsam TABANAN Kutri Dawan ( Lom Ferry Channel lands Mas Is i GIANYAR il itan Mambal G Kamasan Goa Lawah Blue Lagoon Fast Boats Padangbai (Bali ) Kengetan Mengwi Gelgel Bone Tanjung Sari Sakah Gubug IT Silakarang Kusamba bubiyu Blahbatuh Tanjung Jepun Kediri Sibang RA Angantaka T Kemenuh S Lebih Muncan Pejaten Batuan OK Darmasaba Sukawati Keramas Yeh Gangga Pandakgede Singapadu MB O L Fe Beraban Sempidi rry Batubulan Celuk Pa h Lot da ng ba Ubung Lumintang T i (B Tohpati I ali ) A Kerobokan DENPASAR Canggu - Le R B e Brawa Canggu Padanggalak mb h T Sumerta a ar ( Muding Shipwreck SD S Sental Lom Umalas Pengubengan Canggu Renon Sanur bok Blue Corner Buyuk ) Jungutbatu Batubelig Sanur Kutampi Sindhu Ped LEMBONGAN ISLAND Legi Petitenget Telaga Sanglah an Sampalan Lembongan Toyapakeh B e Seminyak Batujimbar Pegok Kut ac Sentalkangin Legian Gelogorcarik Semawang CENINGAN ISLAND aB Pidada Gelagah e Crystal Bay Kuta Pesanggaran Blanjong Metakih Ponjok Kuta Bayuh Suana Malibu SERANGAN ISLAND Tuban Manta Point Semaya Serangan NGURAH RAI Batumandeg Pejukutan BENOA HARBOUR TERNATIONAL AIRPORT Ambengan Tanjung Benoa Kedonganan Batukandik Pendem Jimbaran Bay Tanglad Soyor Jimbaran Bungkit Bingin Anta Pelilit Manta Point Tabuanan Mumbul Ramoan g Padang Sedihing Bualu Geger Sekartaji Kampial ban Nusa Dua Ungasan Batuabah Sawangan watu N Pecatu Babahan

Sebatu

Penebel Perean Pitra

Sulahan Singarata

C

h ac

N

DU

BA

San

ur

G

Be

ac

Ferry to N usa Pe nida

ch

h

NUSA PENIDA

us

a Dua Beac

h

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

40

45

50 km

UbudLife 55

by ayu sekar• image jill alexander

T

enganan – going home Amidst tears and fond farewells, the villagers of Tanah Aron have packed up their scanty belongings and returned to their deserted village back up the mountain.

After five months of camping at the Bali Aga village of Tenganan, the 400 plus villagers are taking their chickens and a few, their cows, to move back to their deserted village. This is a scenario being repeated all around the perimeters of Gunung Agung – a time of mixed feelings, although surely the most common feeling is relief at the chance to get on with their lives.

They can move from their cramped confines within the village wantilan or meeting centre, where each family shared a space of around ten sq metres, where they slept and sat around when not outside.

But being Balinese they accepted what was handed them and made the best of the strange situation. Some of the women were weaving the traditional kain gerinsing or double ikat that Tenganan is world famous for. Alive and unharmed, with the mountain calming down, perhaps for another forty years, as one famous Mangku suggests, they can pick up the threads of their lives, for better or worse. It is still possible to donate to one of the fine organisations that were set up in Ubud. http://kopernik.info/project/mount-agung-emergency-response Or to Bumi Sehat – they are both doing excellent work http://www.bumisehatfoundation.org/donate-to-the-mount-agung-relief/ 56 UbudLife

UbudLife 57

RESTAURANTS

SereS Springs Resort & Spa Jl. Jukut Paku, Singekerta, Ubud Opening October 2017

Bridges Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Biah Biah Jl. Goutama, Ubud Phone: 0361 978249 Biah-Biah+ Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8015124 B Side Cafe & 8B Lounge Jl. Raya Sriwedari No. 8B, Ubud Phone: +62 82339922732 www.bbb-bali.com Cafe Des Artistes Jl. Bisma 9x, Ubud Phone: 0361 972706 www.cafedesartistesbali.com Copper Kitchen & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792888 CP LOUNGE Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com DIVINE Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 970095 www.bridgesbali.com Down To Earth Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 03617835545 www.earthcafeubud.com Folk Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Folk Pool Gardens Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080888 www.folkubud.com Ibu Rai Restaurant Jl. Monkey Forest 72, Ubud Phone: 0361 973472 www.iburai.com Juice Ja Cafe Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

Villa Beji Indah Banjar Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 0361 974168 www.villabejiindah.com

Kebun Jl. Raya Hanoman 44B, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803801 www.kebunbistro.com

ACCOMMODATION Arma Resort Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976659 www.armaresort.com B.Saya Villa and Restaurant Jl. Suweta, Ubud Phone: 0361 973496 www.bsaya.com Cendana Resort & Spa Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973243 www.cendanaresort-spa.com Kupu Kupu Barong Jl. Kedewatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975478 www.dewanggaubud.com Korurua Jl. Tirta Tawar, Ubud Phone: 0361 9000196 www.koruruaubud.com Melati Cottages Jl. Raya Penestanan Kaja, Ubud Phone: 0361 974650 www.melati-cottages.com Ubud Sari Health Resort Jl. Kajeng, Ubud Phone: 0361 974393 www.ubudsari.com Sri Ratih Cottages & Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

58 UbudLife

KAFE Jl. Raya Hanoman 48B, Ubud Phone: 0361 970992 ww.kafe-bali.com Nostimo Greek Grill Jl. Raya Pengosekan 108, Ubud Phone: +62 821 45735546 Monkey Legend Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0361 981611 www.monkeylegendubud.com Nomas Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080800 www.nomasubud.com Pizza Bagus Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 978520 Sri Ratih Cafe & Jewelry Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sayuri Healing Food Jl. Sukma 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080385 www.sayurihealingfood.com Taksu Fresh Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 4792525 www.taksuyoga.com Warung Sopa Garden Jl. Nyuh Kuning 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 2801340 www.warungalami.jombo.com Warung Citta Ovest Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 9080258 Why Not Restaurant & Bar Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 0361 9081601 Yonne Cafe & Bar SenS Hotel & Resort Jl. Sukma, Tebesaya, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493328 www.senshotelsresorts.com

NIGHT LIFE CP Lounge Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 978954 www.cp-lounge.com

SPAS

SHOPS

Aura Theraphy Spa Jl. Hanoman 888, Ubud Phone: 0361 972956 www.ubudaura.com

Bambooku Jl. Hanoman 32, Ubud Phone: 0361 7803119 www.bambooku.com

Bali Healing Spa Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 973067 www.balihealingspa.com

Kunci Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 971050 www.kuncicottonknit.com

Bali Botanical Day Spa Jl. Raya Sanggingan, Ubud Phone: 0361 976739 www.balibotanica.com

Nirmala - Work On T’shirt Jl. Hanoman 2, Ubud Phone: 0361 7475404

Cocoon Medical Spa Ubud Jl. Monkey Forest 8, Ubud Phone: 0811 3882241 www.cocoonmedicalspa.com FRESH Spa Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 8493677 KUSH Ayurvedic Rejuvenation Spa Yoga Barn - Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971236 www.yogabarn.com/kush Milano Salon Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973488 Sang Spa 1 Reborn Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 973236 www.sangspaubud.com Sriratih Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan 1, Ubud Phone: 0361 975638 www.sriratih.com Sala Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud AP Beauty Square Phone: 081 353314080 Sedona Spa Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 0361 975770 www.sedonaspa-ubud.com SKIN Organic Spa and Waxing Salon Jl. Goutama 24 & Jl. Sanggingan 36, Ubud Phone: 0361 975615 & 0361 975604 rsvp@ubudSkinOrganic.com Taksu Spa and Restaurant Jl. Goutama Selatan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971490 www.taksuspa.com

Rainbow Spirit Jl. Hanoman 38, Ubud Phone: 0361 3699978 www.rainbowspiritbali.com Sensatia Botanicals Jl. Monkey Forest 64, Ubud Phone: 0361 3400011 www.sensatia.com Studio Perak Jl. Hanoman, Ubud Phone: 0361 974244 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 081 236 51809 www.dketut37@yahoo.com

PROPERTY Red Lotus Property Jl. Sukma, Br. Tebesaya, Ubud Phone: 970980 www.redlotusbaliproperty.com

GALLERIES Taksu Galleria Jl. Hanoman, Ubud www.taksuspa.com Pilar Batu Gallery Jl. Made Lebah, Ubud Phone: 0361 978197 www.pilarbatu.com

CERAMICS Sari Api Ceramics Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 0361 971056

SISI Jl. Nyuh Kuning No.2, Ubud Hp: 085 103235151 www.sisibag.com SISI Jl. Sriwedari No.12, Ubud Hp: 085 100765895 YIN Jl. Dewi Sita, Ubud Phone: 0361 970718 Jl. Monkey Forest, Ubud Phone: 0361 8468510 Jl. Hanoman Phone: 085 100801879 www.yinjewelryforthesoul.com

ARTISTS Wayan Karja [Painter] Jl. Penestanan, Ubud Hp: 081 239 76419 Wayan Sila [Owl House] Jl. Bisma, Ubud Phone: 977649 | Mobile: 081 8566861

YOGA CENTRE Yoga Barn Jl. Pengosekan, Ubud-Bali Phone: 971236 www.theyogabarn.com UbudLife 59

SPORT/RECREATION

USEFUL NUMBERS Ambulance

Mason Adventure Bypass Ngurah Rai, Pesanggaran Phone: 0361 721480 www.masonadventures.com

Airport Authority

Ubud Horse Stables Phone: 081 339585666 www.ubudhorsestables.com

VISA/LEGAL AFFAIRS

MUSEUMS ARMA ( Agung Rai Museum of Art ) Jl. Raya Pengosekan, Ubud Phone: 974228 Antonio Blanco Renaissance Museum Jl. Raya Campuhan, Ubud Phone: 975502 Museum Puri Lukisan Ubud Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud, Gianyar Phone: 975136 Neka Art Museum Jl. Raya Sanggingan Phone: 975074 Pendet Museum Jl. Nyuh Kuning, Ubud Phone: 971338 Rudana Museum Jl. Raya Cok Rai Pudak, Peliatan, Ubud Phone: 975779

227711

Directory Inquiries

108/112

Fire Brigade

113

Immigration

751038

International Red Cros

226465

Search and Rescue

EAST BALI SECTION

161 751111

Sanglah Public Hospital

227911

Tourist information Center

753540

Time Ubud Tourist Information

103 973286

Ashyana Candidasa Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41359 www.ashyanacandidasa.com Coral View Villas Jl.Raya Bunutan Amed, Karangasem Phone: 0363 23493 www.coralviewvillas.com Le-Zat Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41538, 41539 www.balicateringservices.com Le 48 Hotel & Restaurant Jl. Raya Candidasa 48, Karangasem Phone: 0363 41177 www.lezatbeachrestaurant.com Villa Matanai Jasri Beach - East Bali Phone: +6281337611010 www.villamatanai.com

NORTH BALI SECTION The Hamsa Resort Jl. Air Terjun Sing-Sing, Lovina, Phone: +62 813 3719 4975 Amertha Bali Villas Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 94831 www.baliamerthavillas.com Taman Sari Bali Resort and Spa Desa Pemuteran, Singaraja 811155 Phone: 0362 93264, 94765

60 UbudLife

Bali Police Department

Post Office

HIGHWAY Jl. Raya Ubud, Ubud Phone: 0361 972107 www.highwaybali.com

118 751011

CONSULATES Australia

241118

Brazil

757775

Czech Republic

286465

Denmark & Norway

701070

French

285485

Germany

288535

Hungary

287701

Italy

701005

Japan

227628

Mexico

223266

Netherlands

761502

Spain/Portugal

769286

Sweden & Finland

288407

Switzerland

751735

Unitedkingdom

270601

USA

233605

UbudLife 61

LAST WORD

Searching for the Self Mark Ulyseas

There are those who prefer to be lost in a world of eternal stimuli, a castration of the mind that turns one into the personification of ‘AI’. And in this nebulous world one exists willingly entangled in an incestuous web, unlike those that prefer to break free from the savage… a savage mesmerised by coloured beads… to seek the meaning of the Self, its existence in the menagerie of everyday mindlessness.

In this seeking one changes partners, clothes and sometimes even country. This is good for such actions help peel away the layers of self-consciousness that wraps each of us in a self-imagined world. But this is merely the first step.

Many years ago on the isle I had met people searching for the Self, eagerly consorting with the unknown or the forbidden in an attempt to reconcile with the all-pervading nothingness that gripped them. Alas, the intentions were right but the direction was directionless.

How could one tell them that ‘direction’ is not a physical plain, a tangible thing that represents an end in itself… but that it exists in a dimension of one’s own making, where truth reigns supreme and love locks the doors to hatred and anger.

The sale of self-help books continue to rise above expectations. Perhaps this is a sign that we have taken a wrong turn even though our intentions are right. That we seek to find answers in the words of others, in the minds of others and in the directions of others, whilst, sadly, ignoring the elephant in the room…one’s own soul that extrudes a yearning to be acknowledged for its own worth and seeking to be rejuvenated by revelation and not celebration in the physical world.

Another year has dawned upon us by a time of our own making…the numbers created by us to regulate our lives, to bring coherence to the ebb and flow of life and death. The futility of this regulation is apparent in the growing numbers that refuse to be governed by a time of our own making.

It is heartening that the number of people attempting to break free from the tangibles of a physical world are growing

every year. How wonderful this is for it gives us hope that someday we will all be free of the savage that resides within and become true citizens of the Universe.

I shall leave you now with these words of Andre Gide from his book, Fruits of the Earth "Do you think that at this precise moment you can feel to the uttermost sensation of life in all its power, completeness, and immediacy, unless you forget all that is not life? The habits of your mind hamper you; you live in the past and the future, and you perceive nothing spontaneously.

We only exist in the here and now; in this momentariness the whole past perishes before any of the future is born. Moments! You must realize the power of their presence. For each moment of our lives is essentially irreplaceable; you should learn to sink yourself in it utterly."

Om Shanti Shanti Shanti Om

Mark Ulyseas Publisher/Editor, http://www.liveencounters.net Free online magazine from village earth.

62 UbudLife