UChicago Bite Issue II: Spring 2016

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bite the university of chicago culinary magazine

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de a r food i e s & f r i en d s W

elcome to the Spring 2016 issue of Bite Magazine! As the school year comes to an end, we hope that the past year has been filled with good food and good company. This has been a big year for the magazine, from our name change last quarter to switching to non-themed issues at the beginning of the year. Thank you for riding along with us so far on this wonderful, crazy journey. As we continue to grow, we look forward to continuing to create content that we are proud of and that brings us together, while also expanding to new channels, such as increasing engagement and partnerships with campus organizations and growing our social media and web presence. Stay tuned! The pages within this issue express our love for food and eating, as well as exploring all that UChicago and Chicago have to offer. Our reviews take you to Chicago neighborhoods that may have been previously undiscovered, with lively Cajun seafood from Angry Crab in Arcadia Terrace (5) and no-frills Puerto Rican comfort food from Ponce in Hermosa (8). We convey the joy of sharing food with loved ones through features such as nostalgic dishes from grandma’s cookbook (12) and a boozy brunch on a warm Sunday morning spent with friends (15). This issue looks forward to summer, providing recipes evoking flavors of warmer temperatures, from a tortilla española made with ingredients from the local farmer’s market (11) to refreshing acai bowls (22). We’re very excited to share our creation with all of you, so we hope you enjoy!

–––––––––––––––––––––– the editors


table of contents 4 DUCK DUCK GOAT 5 THE ANGRY CRAB 6 DUSEK’S 7 DOS URBAN CANTINA 8 PONCE 9 MURASAKI 10 FARMER’S MARKET 12 GRANDMA’S COOKBOOK 14 FOOD ART 15 A BOOZY BRUNCH 18 SOCIAL MEDIA & FOOD 20 WICKER PARK 22 AÇAí smoothie bowl 23 JAPANESE LETTUCE WRAPS 24 GARLIC CHEDDAR PULL-APART BREAD 25 SALTED CARAMEL DREAM TART 26 JAMAICAN BANANA FRITTERS 27 OAT JELLY BARS Editor-in-Chief Joe Joseph Managing editor Karen Sung HEADS OF DESIGN HYEONG-SUN CHO, KATHRYN YIN Head of photography sahil chatterji Treasurer hannah bao heads of programming julie khidekel, geoffrey wang MARKETING DIRECTOR SAISHA PaNJABI social media manager hannah ni Content editor celine kwon designers ANGIE KAN, ANITA OBASOHAN, ANJALI DHILLON, DIANA HOCKETT, HUSSAM AL-AZZAWI, JENNY MAO, LINSEY NOWACK, RIA SINGH, SYLVIA WEI writers ANALIESE BATCHELOR, ANEESA SONAWALLA, alden herrera, ANITA OBASOHAN, ALEX YE, AMANDA WILSON, ANGELA SUN, AYESHA WADHAWAN, BIA JAZBIK, CATALINA PARRA, DYLAN WELLS, ELISE MATSUSAKA, GEOFFREY WANG, HELEN BRADY, HUSSAM AL-AZZAWI, JIELU WANG, KATIE MCPOLIN, MARY BITTNER, MIKI TAKASHITA, MOYO ABIONA, NAOMI GANCZ, NAOMI YAMAMOTO, NIKITA COUTINHO, RACHEL WEINBREN, VERONICA MURASHIGE photographers ANEESA SONAWALLA, ANJALI DHILLON, CATALINA PARRA, DIANA HOCKETT, DYLAN WELLS, FIONA GASAWAY, GABBY LUU, GEOFFREY WANG, JULIA ROSE CAMUS, LUISE BUBLITZ, NAOMI GANCZ,

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REVIEW:

duck duck goat by // Geoffrey Wang

Stephanie Izard’s newest venture treats you with an eclectic and haphazardly thrown together atmosphere resembling a museum of Chinese restaurants. The bar resembles a large street food cart, the sitting area near the kitchen a casual Chinese restaurant with vintage photos in old picture frames and exposed brick, and the extravagant seating area with floral wallpaper and large, round tables further inside a formal private room for large gatherings and celebrations. Yet upon closer inspection, I couldn’t help but feel out of place in a restaurant that tries so hard to pay homage to Chinese cuisine. The chopsticks, usually ivory or bamboo, are made of disposable wood. The speakers play a mix of early 2000’s American pop with songs by the Taiwanese pop group S.H.E thrown in as if a sporadic allusion to Chinese culture could render the atmosphere more “Chinese.” What was most unusual, however, was the clientele, composed of trendy professionals in their 20s – quite different from the mix of rowdy Asian families that one would see in a normal Chinese restaurant. Duck Duck Goat’s food, taken as Chinese cuisine, is no more than a shadow of the real thing. And even without the context of Chinese cuisine, the food needs quite a bit of work. The menu contains popular foods originating from Taiwan, Szechuan, Beijing, Shanghai, and Hong Kong, to name a few. I ordered duck hearts and Fupijuan (tofu-skin wrapped pork rolls) to start, Lion’s Head meatballs as a soup, and Sanbeiji chicken as an entree. The duck hearts were more Fourth of July barbeque than robata grill. However, 4

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they were cooked to perfection, resembling the texture of a filet mignon steak, with a good mixture of sesame-horseradish sauce for flavor. The Fupijuan was served as a few bites of fried tofu skins with pork belly and peppers wrapped inside, garnished with radish, cucumber, scallions and cilantro. The lion’s head, one of my favorite Chinese dishes overall, was unfortunately much too chewy – an authentic lion’s head should just melt in the mouth. The broth it was served in contained cabbage, mushrooms, and peppers in a thick, flavorful soup but used a tad too much vinegar. The Sanbeiji, the last dish, resembled more of a marinated fried chicken than Sanbeiji. Superficially, the dish looked like the real deal: a few bite-size chunks of chicken smothered in brown sauce composed simply of soy sauce, sesame oil, and rice wine with basil, green onions, and ginger. However, the meat ended up being overly salted and somewhat overcooked. Ultimately, Duck Duck Goat’s place and purpose in the culinary world is a mystery. Duck Duck Goat does little to innovate, but rather just seems to be a poor attempt at emulating what true Chinese restaurants have been doing for years. Additionally, at its price point and the taste and quality of its food, there seems to be no reason to make a trip to Fulton Market when Chinatown is a few minutes away. Duck Duck Goat is, quintessentially, an anomaly in the culinary world – an experimental project by a talented chef interested in creating, as stated on the menu, “Reasonably Authentic Chinese Cuisine.”

photos // Geoffrey Wang

neighborhood Fulton Market pRICES $$$ dISHES TO TRY Duck Hearts


REVIEW:

the angry crab by // jielu wang

photos // gabby luu

Located in the quiet neighborhood of Arcadia Terrace in West Ridge, the Angry Crab is an inconspicuous establishment that typically would not draw a second glance. That is, if it were not for the unavoidable line of people extending down the block. Due to the Angry Crab’s recent climb to prominence as one of Chicago’s most popular restaurants, procuring a seat here is no easy feat. However, with its fresh Cajun seafood and entertaining dining experience, it is not difficult to see why. If the Angry Crab’s surroundings are mundane and tranquil, its ambience inside is just the opposite. The walls are covered in haphazard signatures and scribbles, the papercovered tables are packed into the small space, and the background noise of conversation is mixed with nostalgic throwback music. Complimentary bibs, paper towel rolls next to each table, and a lack of plates or utensils attest to the visceral experience to come. All of the seafood is sold by the pound based on market price, with selections including crawfish, whole or headless shrimp, clams, mussels, lobsters, and various types of crab. After selecting the seafood, patrons choose a sauce (lemon pepper, garlic butter, angry Cajun, or maniac, a combination of all three) and one of four heat levels. Although seafood is the focus here, meals can be supplemented with appetizers or extras, such as corn and sausage. The no-frills menu is simple, but it offers plenty of flavor opportunities. We ordered their crispy, golden Cajun

fries to start, and a pound each of whole shrimp, crawfish, and snow crab legs soaked in maniac sauce. When the crustaceans arrive in large, clear plastic bags, the frenzy of cracking, dipping, slurping, and finger-licking begins. Dining at the Angry Crab is a fun experience that involves getting down and dirty with your food, a shell-cracking process that is as satisfying as actually eating. The shellfish is perfectly cooked: the shrimp is juicy and fat with heads that ooze deliciousness, and the crawfish are tender and pair perfectly with the Cajun-inspired flavors. Furthermore, with a name like the Angry Crab and considering the four different varieties offered (snow crab, king crab, blue crab, and Dungeness crab), it was no surprise that the sweet and succulent snow crab legs were the star of the show. The maniac sauce is a balance of buttery, garlicy, tangy, spicy flavors that complemented, but did not mask, the shellfish itself. We tried the shrimp and crawfish with the level one Calm Cubs spice and the snow crab legs with the level two Ragin’ Bulls spice. The spiciness was not as much as we expected, so do not fear testing your Cajun spice limits. Well worth the wait for a table, the hands-on dining and authentic flavors at this affordable BYOB joint transport its patrons from Chicago to the Gulf Coast. Among the multitude of posh restaurants in Chicago, the informal Angry Crab offers a unique experience promising fresh seafood and classic Cajun savor with a twist of fun.

neighborhood Arcadia Terrace pRICES $$

dISHES TO TRY Cajun Fries, Seafood by the Pound

reviews

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REVIEW:

Dusek’s by// Elise Matsusaka + Amanda Wilson photos // Julia rose camus

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n the heart of Pilsen among a plethora Mexican taquerías lies a haven of glorious food and drink: Dusek’s. As you walk in the doors (make sure you enter Dusek’s, not Thalia Hall, the concert hall hosting rock bands every night of the week, which shares a building with the restaurant), it is obvious that Dusek’s is right at home in Pilsen. The ceiling is lined with textured metal tiles, the raised bar feels like a 1950’s soda fountain, and the dim lighting tricks you into feeling relaxed despite dining at a Michelin-starred restaurant. The menu itself doesn’t appear spectacular, but each dish is prepared with remarkable ingredients by a remarkable chef. Jared Wentworth, executive chef from Longman & Eagle, a similarly Michelin-starred restaurant, seamlessly weaves exotic and familiar, antique and modern flavors together to create a menu that reflects Dusek’s ultra-cool environment. A small cast-iron crock holds a creamy favorite with a surprising edge: blue crab dip, topped with purple pickled artichoke relish and bursting with so much lump crab that it feels more like a warm crab salad than a dip, of course served with a delicious toasted baguette. Agnolotti, stuffed with a classic English pea filling, bathe in a smooth parmesan broth, made just like any other broth, but by substituting parmesan rinds for chicken, fish, or beef bones and cartilage. Dusek’s high-quality shellfish is not be missed; the oysters taste of the ocean and sweet butter, and the mussels, rather than served in a broth, are coated with a paste of smoky pimentón (a Spanish variety of paprika). If, for whatever reason, you cannot try any of their many craft beers, opt instead for the draft

‘pop,’ a strawberry, rosemary, black pepper, and balsamic shrub concoction. As the dinner crowd rolls in around 7:00 pm, the service noticeably slows. Don’t be put off - the desserts are worth the wait. To pass the time, check out the bathroom, where the walls are lined with chalkboards and stocked with plenty of chalk, a paradise for your inner child. You’ll pass the establishment’s late-night lounge, Punch House, on your way, host to eclectic DJ’s every night. When your desserts finally arrive, they live up to, and perhaps even exceed, the eccentricity of the savory dishes. ‘Fried Stout’ is code for crispy balls of airy pastry rolled in cinnamon-sugar, a boozy and ethereal cousin to doughnut holes, served with a jelly that tastes like domesticated molasses and an ice cream whose stout flavor overwhelms your tongue in only the most wonderful way. Coupled with the Roasted Chili Churros, a spicy homage to the Spanish Churros y Chocolate, you will leave Dusek’s satisfied for the night and eager to return.

neighborhood Pilsen pRICES $$

dISHES TO TRY Blue Crab Dip Fried Stout Draft Pop

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REVIEW:

dOS URBAN CANTINA by// Alex Ye + Angela Sun

photos // Peggy Xu

It’s risky to tackle the trend of modernization in the food industry. So-called cultural “fusion” restaurants often exploit cliche ingredients to imitate the effect of cultural exchange, but often fall short. However, the crew at Dos Urban Cantina, headed by two power couples in the Chicago food scene, have utilized the part-restaurant part-brewery combination to accentuate Mexican flavors in a way that doesn’t warrant the scrutiny of purists. This Logan Square block is sparsely populated with good restaurants, and Dos stands out a highlight of the neighborhood, seeing healthy business even on a Monday evening. Stepping into the warmly-lit establishment, you’re greeted with Dos’s first seating area, which features a glowing white bar, communal tables, and couple seating. We were redirected to their second seating area, a setup of booths for larger parties that was cozy yet spacious. Brick walls contrast sleek wooden furniture to remind the diners of the inherent rustic nature of traditional Mexican food. Come with a party of 4-5 to take advantage of the variety of sharing plates. We recommend that you skip the salads and tamales and direct your focus to Dos’s takes on quintessential Mexican and South American surf and turf that demand your attention. Our waiter consolidated our order into three separate rounds. From the bright and fresh, to the smoky and savory, and to the sweet and decadent. Their most picturesque dish, a take on scallop ceviche, featured tart aguachile and crunchy chia seeds that interwove with smoky roasted sweet potato, but ultimately overshadowed the scallops themselves. The shrimp taquitos, on the other hand, while simplistic in plating, highlighted a meaty shrimp flavor that complemented with a medley of delicate flavors from the creamy avocado, subtle tomato broth, and sweet pickled vegetables. In our second round, the pibil and carnitas held their own, evocative of Mexican festivities, but couldn’t compete with the smoked trout, which stole the spotlight, served with charred cauliflower and an

obscure salsa macha, a smoky, thick, crunchy condiment. A mouthful of these components mixed with the sweet, silky butternut squash puree was the bite of the night. Last impressions are important, and Dos’s medley of desserts satisfied the last remaining crevices in our stomachs. Their take on Cafe de Olla, a Mexican preparation of coffee, manifested as lightly spiced ice cream atop a moist cookie and a fragrant, roasted coffee crumble, while the unanimous favorite was the syrupy, viscous tamarind paste atop a date bread pudding, with cooling vanilla ice cream melting into all the nooks and crannies. Dos Urban Cantina is surely not an answer to your mission-style taco cravings, nor is it comparable to the Mexican cuisine strongholds in Pilsen, but it is instead an adventurous style of dining with friends that is a worthy addition to Logan Square.

neighborhood Logan Square pRICES $$$ dISHES TO tRY Smoked Trout

reviews

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REVIEW:

Ponce by // Katie McPolin

neighborhood Hermosa pRICES $ dISHES TO TRY Rellenos de Papa Bacalaittos Carne Guisada

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photos //

Ponce huddles, unpretentious, on a residential strip of Fullerton Avenue in Hermosa between law offices and daycare centers, attracting only those who seek it. Its soft brown awning shrugs over a wide, bright window, and hand-lettering advertises fresh bacalaitos on the glass. Stepping into the tiny, family-owned restaurant felt more like a pilgrimage to my grandma’s house than an evening out, and on a chilly Saturday afternoon, the room was packed with families hungry for a hot, filling meal. We chose to dine in, but the restaurant also offers full counter service. Ponce is a community staple, open for three meals a day, seven days a week. We arrived just as an older couple finished a meal with their grandchildren, warmly offering us their seats next to a case of sizzling alcapurrias and softballsized rellenos de papa. Our table was quickly dressed with plastic cutlery and styrofoam cups, and we could see that only one server was hopping from table to table. I apologized to our overwhelmed waitress and ordered a barrage of fried goodies to start, all around a dollar apiece, as well as a few pasteles for good measure. Moments later she hustled back with our hot food, laying down five plates in one fluid motion. We left our metal napkin holder on the floor to make room for the baskets of food coming at us. The rellenos de papa – deep-fried potato balls, stuffed with meat – were soft and dense, and the bacalaittos –

Anjali Dhillon

deep-fried cod pancakes – were devoured in seconds. The pasteles took me back to Easter breaks spent huddled around my aunt’s kitchen counter watching my grandmother carefully wrap banana leaves, and though they are likely the world’s least beautiful food – a mushy brick of yuca, plantain, and assorted ground meats – our waitress presented them to us with pride. Our fried feast already heavy in our stomachs, we prepared for round two, ordering more refreshing passionfruit juice from a churning glass drum on the counter. Each of us ordered a dinner entree, which includes a salad, a side of either arroz con gandules (rice with pigeon peas: my ultimate childhood favorite, and a classic Puerto Rican staple) or arroz con habichuelas, for uncomplicated rice and beans. I opted for what I know, and ordered the carne guisada, a beef stew which was thick and rich and everything I wanted it to be. We also sampled the mofongo – a monstrous sphere of starchy mashed plantain and savory pork that stuck to our ribs for the rest of the evening. We finished our meal with flan (one slice for me, one split among my four friends) and the milky-sweet custard was exactly what we need to settle our stomachs for the cab ride home. Ponce handles traditional meals without a trace of pretense, and as we left, I couldn’t help but peer into the kitchen to see if I could find my Titi Elba poring over a pan of tostones.


REVIEW:

MURASAKI by // Miki Takeshita

As a Japanese person utterly confused by the dearth of decent authentic Japanese restaurants in Chicago, I was elated to hear about the Murasaki Sake Lounge, claiming to be the “no. 1 sake lounge in Chicago.” Referenced by Jun Takanarita, a transplant from Japan who spent time in Nebraska studying music before becoming a bartender at Murasaki, the lounge takes up the basement space of one of many of Northwestern University’s buildings downtown and assumes the characteristic of Takanarita-san himself: warm, intimate, surprisingly quiet for a Friday night, yet strongly attached to its function as the premier sake lounge in Chicago. The lounge is enclosed by walls painted deep purple in accordance with its namesake (murasaki means purple in Japanese). There is a private karaoke room with a Joysound system that goes for about $35/hour, as well as a lounge area that is partially hidden by a wall. In the front is the bar, where bottles of authentic sake (Japanese rice wine), shochu (distilled wine made from either rice, barley or potatoes), umeshu (Japanese wine made from pickled plums), and Japanese whiskey, are aligned neatly behind the counter. Peggy and I had no idea what to order, and luckily the person sitting next to us, a Japanophile

pursuing his MD/PhD at Northwestern, was incredibly knowledgeable on which sake would suit our tastes. I ordered the seikyo, a rice wine originating from Hiroshima. It was fresh, not too bitter, with hints of blood orange. We then tried the hana - kohaku, an umeshu that was incredibly sweet, almost citrusy. The menu itself is probably over four pages long, featuring all types of sake. You could go here once a week during a quarter and still not exhaust all the sake options. Any of these sake go well with the food offered at the Lounge. The food menu, while not extensive, features small bites like one would find at an authentic izakaya (Japanese gastropub) as well as bigger comfort food dishes that would make any Japanese person’s heart soar. We ordered the hiyayakko, freshly chilled tofu dipped in soy sauce and sprinkled with green onion and bonito flakes; Kobayashi bites, Japanese kurobuta sausage; kara-age, Japanese fried chicken with spicy sauce, and gyu-don, Japanese beef rice bowl with green onions and a kick of ginger; and for dessert some classic green tea mochi ice cream as well as coffee jelly. I especially enjoyed the Kurobuta bites. Japanese kurobuta is known as the best quality pork in Japan, and the bites were incredibly juicy – no sauce was needed

photos // Peggy Xu

at all. The coffee jelly made me extremely nostalgic for Japan, for it’s a popular delicacy that is sold everywhere in the country but not at all here. It was a delicious mix of sweet jello and bitter coffee that took me back to my childhood in Japan. We ended up staying for four hours, eventually leaving the bar at around midnight. Not only are the sake and food comforting, the people (bartenders and customers alike) are what make this sake lounge so special. The bartenders, clientele, Peggy and I chatted about the woes and throes of college life, our collective love for Japanese food and everything in between, with a few hearty laughs here and there. Although all of the bartenders have some sort of connection to Japan, whether they have learned the language or directly from Japan, about half of the clientele that I saw were non-Japanese, who came to enjoy the authentic sake and wind down after a long week.

neighborhood Near North Side pRICES $$ dISHES TO TRY Kurobuta Bites Coffee Jelly

reviews

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Farmer’s Market by Ayesha Wadhawan and Veronica Murashige

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armer’s markets offer a great way to eat fresh foods and become more informed about what you consume. Although the selection is usually pricier than conventional grocery stores, if you have the money or feel like treating yourself, the expense can be worth it. Some markets do offer discount programs and accept food stamps. On our trip, we picked up two boxes of crumbled feta for four dollars – not a bad deal for fresh cheese! Some farmer’s markets feature live music and cooking demonstrations, and vendors usually enjoy talking with customers and offer samples of diverse goods they made themselves. In a single hour, we tried five kinds of cheese, three varieties of pesto, a mushroom salsa, beet 10

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ketchup, kimchi, and Bloody Mary mix. (One of us purchased the last item for aspirational homemade brunches that may or may not occur.) Lincoln Park’s Green City Market operates throughout the year and takes an interesting approach to circumventing the winter chill. From November to April, the market heads indoors to the Peggy Notebaert Nature Museum, an airy building with huge windows and a water feature. With spring approaching during our visit, vendors were spilling out onto the sidewalk. The museum is a perfect stop on a day out in Lincoln Park – we took some time to explore the zoo, which is a few blocks away, and the Alfred Caldwell Lily Pond just across the street.


Ingredients:

ReCipe:

• • • • • • • • •

1. Slice potatoes into rounds and cook in a heated skillet for 8­-12 minutes – for thicker slices, you can add a splash of water and cover with a lid to cook them evenly. 2. Add in spinach and garlic. 3. In a separate bowl, beat the eggs with salt, pepper, milk, and scallions. 4. Once the spinach is wilted, add the egg mixture and cover. After a minute, sprinkle on the feta crumbles. 5. Cook on low­-to-medium heat for 7­-8 minutes, and serve warm.

Olive oil for cooking 3-­4 small potatoes 1 clove garlic 2 cups spinach 6 eggs 1 tbsp. diced scallions 2 tbsp. milk 1 tbsp. feta cheese Salt and pepper to taste

The market’s website features dozens of suggested recipes, which we browsed on the bus ride over. When we got there, however, we did not find ingredients that matched our vaguely asparagus-­ t hemed plans. Instead, we found ingredients that were exciting in their own right, such as Russian potatoes that were purple on the inside, and farm­fresh hen’s eggs with deep yellow yolks. We found smooth, tangy feta (on sale!) and an odd, furry mushroom called Lion’s Mane. Our wares reminded me of the tortilla española that I ate almost every day on my study abroad trip. The Spanish tortilla is not a flatbread – it is like a frittata, a thick omelet, often with perfectly cooked potato slices layered inside it. Inspired, we decided

to make a version of tortilla española with our purple potatoes and feta, adding some spinach from Hyde Park Produce to complete the meal. It turned out creamy and filling, with just enough texture from the potatoes and spinach. As for the furry Lion’s Mane, we simply sautéed it with onions, ordinary button mushrooms, and some red pepper flakes. The button mushrooms balanced out the Lion’s Mane’s intense, seafood­like flavor. Visiting a farmer’s market inspired us to build a dish around great, in­ - season ingredients, instead of trying to replicate a recipe perfectly. We definitely recommend the experience! Check the cityofchicago. org for a full schedule of Chicago’s farmer’s markets. features

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Grandma’s Cookbook written by Hussam Al‐Azzawi photo by Diana Hockett 12

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ears ago, as a child, I’d gotten an impulse to sneak into the kitchen in order to “borrow” some chocolates. My limbs were little back then, so I had to climb on a chair. Squeak. Screech. Bam! I was now lying on the floor; the cupboard semi-open, and most of my grandma’s ingredients knocked away from the countertop. The kitchen smelled like the devil’s furnace. I learned that day why people didn’t just mix everything together and call it food. Because this experience is so ingrained in my memory, I can vividly recall the ingredients my grandma liked to incorporate into her food: rice, nuts, vine leaves, bulgur, and so on. I don’t think I’ve seen these ingredients incorporated into Western food. In a way, that accident showed me that food is different all around the world. Behind every food is an interesting story. It is astonishing how we have so many different kinds of food not only across a certain region, but across the world. Despite this, food is still food. I’ve learned from travelling across cultures that one thing can truly bring people together, no matter where you are in the world, and that is food. I have no doubt that every culture has its own equivalent of “yummy in my tummy.” Each culture combines spices and food groups in a unique way, giving rise to the diverse culinary feats across the globe. The familiar scents of my grandmother’s traditional meals sometimes still waft through my nose, inciting a sensation of comfort and happiness. No matter what the event was, certain dishes were always going to be served by my grandmother. The three dishes at my grandmother’s table I could always expect were Kibbeh, Kousa Mahshi, and Ma’amoul. These meals never failed to bring our family together, even though my relatives hail from various cultural backgrounds:


Ma’moul Whenever we have holidays, two things are guaranteed: gifts andma’amoul. Once you’ve had one, you’d also have a reason to celebrate. This dish consists of sweet, buttery semolina cookies filled with date butter. The fillings differ depending on the region — Lebanon, for instance, uses walnut or pistachio chopped and mixed with sugar.

Mahshi Stuffing vegetables is a Middle Eastern food trend that has beenpopular for thousands of years, and it seems to comfort Middle Easterns. Perhaps this tradition is a way to show culinary sophistication. Whatever the reason may be, Kousa Mahshi is a great example of a stuffed vegetable. It loosely translates to “stuffed zucchini, ”and as the name suggests, zucchini is stuffed with rice and beef, cooked in red sauce.

Kibbeh This is probably my favorite dish; it just never gets old. The word itself means ball in Arabic, and this is pretty evident when one looks at the food. They are balls of cracked bulgur wheat stuffed with lean meat. There are many variations according to which region you eat this in: they are usually deep fried in Lebanon, but raw in certain areas of Syria. It depends on what ingredients have been traditionally available in the region, as raw kibbeh, for example, can only be made with raw goat meat. My grandma usually says, “There is no such thing as bad kibbeh, but there is bad meat.” features

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food art

by // anita obsohan + catalina parra photo courtesy of charles michel

O

nce upon a time, you would not have had the luxury of previewing photographs of the food a restaurant or chef had to offer; instead, you walked into a place for its alluring aromas before you could even look at any sort of food. Nowaday, through, you can look at food, and arguably, what it tastes like from the easy access of the media: Facebook, Instagram, Yelp, to name just a few. There seems to be a common theme around social media of glamorizing food and its preparation process. As you scroll down your feeds you notice a plethora of food posts. Some people even get involved in mastering the “art” of taking food photos and posting it –– more often than not with witty food puns. It’s intriguing. You watch Tasty video after video, or stalk a “foodstagramer,” almost being able to taste that giant, cheesy slice of Artichoke’s pizza on the New Fork City Instagram account. If you’re not this person already, there’s always that friend spending most of the meal taking the perfect photo of their order. Any way we choose to indulge in our love of food, we have all become quite involved, following at least one food blogger, chef, or restaurant to satisfy some sort of satisfaction. This satisfaction is directly related to the aesthetics of food presentation. However, perhaps the interest in food stems from its core: art. What? Food is art? Why, yes. Despite the lack of unanimity in establishing what makes art art, typically, a lot of the metrics used to classify an artwork can be applied to food too. History and past experiences play a role in food making and presentation, just like in

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art. Even though one is making food from a recipe, there are subjective and personal characteristics that go into it. Food can even be representational of the message that are usually interpreted in paintings as well. We don’t simply taste and see what we eat, there are many processes that go into eating a meal that we might not be aware of. Why do many of us place value on how nicely presented a meal is? The salad pictured, was part of an experiment, where the same salad was plated in three different ways: tossed, arranged neatly and arranged artistically. Participants rated the artistic arrangement to be tastier, more complex and appealing. They even said that they would be willing to pay more for it. Philosopher Denis Dutton has his explanation for this, “The value of an artwork is rooted in the assumptions about the human performance underlying its creation.” A chef can be assumed to be an artist and the kitchen his studio, and cooking to be an artwork. Consumers think products associated with art are more valuable, probably because they believe that more effort and care has been put into its preparation. Charles Spence, an experimental psychologist at the University of Oxford, believes that people’s perception is greatly affected by what their eyes see. Your first bite of a meal is with your eyes, and this greatly affects how you perceive your meal actually tastes. The first impression is the most lasting — is there anything that makes you hungrier than well­plated or colorful food? Meals and the restaurants are very often chosen by what we are presented with: we choose to eat based on the food’s aesthetic value.


A BOOZY BRUNCH

by mary bittner & aneesa sonawalla photos by aneesa sonawalla

features

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runch has become grievously commercialized, modernly infused with offerings of bottomless mimosas, Instagramworthy dishes, and social recognition. The elegance of brunch — of what it can be and once was — is often lost in these more recent characteristics. We’re left dreaming of the sophistication of casually sipping a strong cocktail over a long, late, and lazy meal on a Sunday morning. We yearn for the eloquence with which writers like Fitzgerald and Hemingway described the power of booze, both alongside a meal and as a feature in its own right. And so, we were inspired to try to bring these feelings back to brunch, to bring appreciation and enjoyment back to your hair-of-the-dog mornings after. We draw our ideas from the Roaring Twenties and the reign of Prohibition, an era in which alcohol was present but tastefully concealed and artfully consumed. With underground American intoxication as our inspiration, here are four booze-filled brunch ideas that can be enjoyed from the comfort (and secrecy) of your own home. Start with classic ingredients, pair with

good company, and revel in a brunch worthy of some of America’s greatest authors. First on the menu are Veggie and the Beast’s Strawberry Champagne Pancakes — fluffy, intoxicating, and quite fun to make. Fitzgerald once wrote, “Too much of anything is bad, but too much champagne is just right,” and we cannot help but agree with him. These pancakes were made with precisely this attitude as our quarter cup of champagne quickly became a generous pour. The pancakes turned out spectacularly, dazzled our guests, and were easy to artistically plate. Continuing with the champagne theme, we selected Blood Orange Lemonade Mimosas from Sugar and Charm as a tart and sparkling cocktail pairing for our pancakes. An interesting twist from the traditional variety, these mimosas feature the appealing hues of blood oranges and the tartness of lemonade (or sweetness depending on how much sugar you prefer). Steering away from Fitzgerald’s light, bubbly champagne and into the dark, hard liquor of Hemingway, Whiskey Salted Caramel French Toast inspired by Love and Olive Oil was an instant favorite with our guests. Thick-cut slices of challah bread, oven-roasted bananas sprinkled with sugar, and caramel heavily

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bite | spring 2016


infused with sea salt and bourbon meld together for the perfect blend of sweet and salty in this twist on a timeless breakfast staple. The real trick, though, is the bite from a splash of Irish cream, whisked in with eggs and milk for dredging the French toast. And finally, no respectable Prohibition writer would have been nearly as productive without coffee, the black ichor of life. We took ours as Irish Iced Coffee, blending Irish cream liqueur with our caffeine for a refreshing morning (or any time of day) beverage. Arguably the best part about these dishes is their affordability, as we used Barefoot Extra Dry Bubbly, Jim Beam bourbon, and Saint Brendan’s Irish cream. Chicago itself is known for its Prohibition-era bars and lounges, many of them hidden under restaurants or in what appear to be graffitied buildings, but these establishments will easily run you $50 or more for a couple cocktails. Instead, we offer you these delicious alternatives to embracing the beloved booze of the Roaring Twenties — without emptying your wallet. So the next time you decide to brunch with friends, stay in, save money, and create a boozy brunch worthy of the Golden Age, with as much sophistication and class as F. Scott Fitzgerald himself. Perhaps you and your guests will be left equally inspired, venturing off to write timeless masterpieces that will be cherished forever.

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much champagne is just right.” ––– F. SCOTT FITZGERALD features

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SOCIAL MEDIA

FOOD 18 bite | spring 2016


SPOTLIGHT the infatuation

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ith members hailing from Chicago, New York, Denver, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Austin, there is a small team of amateur food critics who have an Instagram account with currently 608k followers, a perpetually active Snapchat, and an edgy tone in their posts on all platforms. Self-dubbed “creators of restaurant reviews that don’t suck” is The Infatuation. If you’ve ever seen an #EEEEEATS hashtag, you’ve been looking at something that is The Infatuation inspired. During the summer of 2015, the Food Network posted “Snapchat Stars: Food Lovers to Follow” on their Snapchat account and Community page online. Among the list was Infatuation TV, with Food Network suggesting giving them a follow in order to “keep up with the team’s dining antics in real time.” When viewing the Infatuation TV Snapchat story, you are transported from grabbing a breakfast burrito at Coffee Commissary in Burbank, CA to Queens Comfort for lunch in New York City. The team is spread out throughout the nation, which allows them to shoot from many locations in one day. Thanks to geofilters and the team’s constant narration, you will always know which city you are viewing #EEEEEATS from. You can think of the team as your surrogate snackers as they film themselves eating bowls of fusion ramen, cutting into five pound chimichangas, and marveling at five-scoop-tall ice cream cones. You can add The Infatuation to your radar by adding @infatuationtv on Snapchat. If a live feed of people eating food isn’t your thing, The Infatuation’s Instagram is well worth a follow. The photos are professional quality, though most are shot on an iPhone 6s. “You don’t take pictures of

food, and put a filter on it. You don’t know that?” says Chris Stang, co-founder of The Infatuation in an interview with Elite Daily. Popular photos on the page include fudge filled chocolate chip cookies from Ben’s Cookies, a donut ice cream cone from Tella Bells, and a “pizza pot pie” from Chicago Pizza & Oven Grinder Co. Rarely are there any healthy #EEEEEATS documented on the page, but you can still be sure to find dozens of featured sushi platters and plenty of variations on avocado toast. When it comes to production of the blog and Instagram account, Stang admits that he is “that person,” someone going to the opposite side of a restaurant to use a table for its good natural lighting. Naturally, the team works to keep up their aesthetic and quick tone on social media. Stang thinks that “captions are impossible,” even though the team’s captions are often only a few words. Just like any good food blog, The Infatuation cares mostly about providing for its fans. Stang says, “It takes a lot of time for us to find the right people, I mean finding people we think that our audience can trust as much as they have come to trust us here in New York.” Plenty of eating and food-touring guides can be found on the infatuation.com/ Chicago page if you’re looking for new #EEEEEATS around campus. Most recently, “A Guide to Chicago’s ‘Super Cute Reasonably Priced Restaurants To Catch Up With A Few Friends’” was posted to The Infatuation’s page. If the title appeals, you can find it online and follow suit.

BY ALDEN HERRERA

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Neighborhood Exploration

wicker park BY // NIKITA COUTINHO + DYLAN WELLS PHOTOS // DYLAN WELLS Living in Chicago, with its vast array of neighborhoods, we are spoilt for choice when it comes to exploring new areas. After setting our hearts on Wicker Park, situated west of the heart of downtown, we braced ourselves for its famous hipster vibe.

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ur first stop was at the Oak Mill Bakery, which has been serving European-style pastries for over 30 years. The large glass windows, which let the sunlight stream in and were laden with wedding cakes, beckoned us inside. We expected an old-world air, and the dark wood tables and blackboard display menu did deliver, but there was a surprising chicness about the bakery, with its eccentric lighting displays, leafy vegetable bouquets, and funky customized cakes. After an employee graciously talked us through the menu, which included napoleons, mousse bombs, and cake pops, we chose a chocolate sponge with edible-glitter dusted with meringue “mushrooms.” It looked like something out of a fantasy novel and was almost too visually intriguing to eat. When we took a stab into it (literally, as the pastry had a hard shell), we were greeted by layers of airy sponge sandwiched between a delightful hazelnut buttercream. The meringue won our hearts by not being overly sweet and helped balanced the pastry.

As we walked along the historic North and Milwaukee Avenues, we got the distinct feeling that we would encounter the weird and the wonderful. This was a place that nestled tarot card shops, vinyl record stores, and Russian bathhouses, but also designer shops and the swankiest Walgreens we’d ever encountered. This was a place that housed regal Victorian buildings and modern ship-inspired structures, whose graffiti ranged from illegible scrawls to deep, elaborate pieces and where we felt out of place walking amongst all the skateboarders, cyclists and rollerbladers. This was a place where Moroccan, Argentinian, Nepalese, Greek, and Japanese were just some of our dining options that were within walking distance. After much deliberation, we opted for the Costa Rican Irazu, a family-friendly establishment that seemed a little off the beaten track. In hindsight, we should have made reservations beforehand and found out that only cash was accepted. The ambitious décor felt like we were in a different world entirely, and the

peppy background tunes emphasized this laid back vibe. We were greeted with complimentary salsa and nachos before going on to order an avocado and shrimp cocktail and a shrimp burrito. The colourful cocktail was a sizeable portion and could easily pass as a main for two. We were also struck by how fresh the shrimp, cucumber and avocado tasted, and collectively they were reminiscent of a glorious summer day. We would have liked more cilantro but the slivers of radish really helped balance the flavor dynamic. After the high of the cocktail, we had astronomical expectations, but the shrimp burrito somberly brought us back to Earth. Although it was not unpleasant, it did not leave us feeling the urge to take another bite, which was a shame. The signature shakes and juices were served in glass jars, further evidence that we were in a hipster haven, with every direction offering something Instagram worthy. While we explored Wicker Park over the course of a few hours, we hardly did it justice. Our positive experience will see us return, hungry for more.

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{

PREP 5 minutes COOK 5 minutes MAKES 1 serving

}

AÇAí smoothie bowl A

çaí bowls, which have gained much recognition as an antioxidant-filled breakfast, have long been consumed as a natural source of energy for Brazilian surfers. Although traditionally eaten on the beaches of Brazil, açaí bowls are gaining popularity worldwide. Açaí is a dark purple berry that resembles a large blueberry, growing throughout the Amazonian region. Açaí bowls are simply açaí blended with banana, topped with additional fruit

by // Bia Jazbik photos // Diana Hockett

and granola. Normally, you can find açaí in the form of frozen puree packets or freeze-dried powder. Not only are açaí bowls extremely simple to make, they are also completely customizable based on what fruits and toppings are available to you. Whether eaten for breakfast, as a pre/ post workout, or dessert, açaí bowls have many health benefits while remaining versatile and refreshing.

get

• 2 packets of frozen acai puree (original/ unsweetened • 1 frozen banana • ¼ cup coconut water, apple juice, or almond milk • Topping suggestions: granola, banana, strawberry, cocoa nibs, and coconut flakes DO

1. Run each packet of acai under hot water for a couple of seconds. 2. Remove frozen acai puree from packets and place into blender with 1 frozen banana and l/2 cup of liquid of choice 3. Blend all ingredients until smooth. 4. Scoop into a bowl and finish with desired toppings. 22

bite | spring 2016


JAPANESE LETTUCE WRAPS by // naomi yamamoto photos // nora bradford

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his is the perfect flexible recipe, delicious no matter the season, the weather, or your taste preferences. Traditionally a summer dish in Japan, lettuce wraps are similar to Laotian larb. The ingredient list is customizable; use this recipe as a guide and improvise according to your tastes and what you have on hand. Serve as an appetizer for up to ten people or a quick main dish alongside sliced tomato and rice. I prefer butter lettuce, but iceberg lettuce is more commonly used.

{

GET

• 2 tbsp. canola oil • 2 cloves garlic, minced • 2 tsp. ginger, minced • ½ onion, diced • 1 lb. ground beef • 2 carrots, small dice • 6-8 oz. shiitake mushrooms, small dice • 2-3 oz. bamboo shoots (optional) • 2 tsp. sugar • 1 tbsp. sake (or white wine)

• 1 tbsp. soy sauce • 1 tbsp. oyster sauce • Pinch of red pepper • Pinch of black pepper • 2 tsp. sesame oil • 1-2 oz. harusame (bean thread) noodles, boiled until soft and roughly chopped (optional) • Large leaves of butter or iceberg lettuce, to serve

PREP 15 minutes COOK 10 minutes MAKES 4-6 servings

}

DO

1. Heat oil in a large wok or frying pan over medium-high heat. Add garlic and ginger and sauté until fragrant, then add the onion and sauté until softened. 2. Add ground beef and sauté until browned, then add vegetables and sauté until all are cooked through. Drain any excess oil or water. 3. Add sugar, sake, soy sauce, oyster sauce, both peppers, and sesame oil. Mix thoroughly and sauté for about 5 minutes to let the flavors develop. Taste and add seasoning as preferred. Add harusame (if using) and stir well. 4. Serve hot with lettuce leaves to serve as wraps for the filling. recipes

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{

PREP 20 minutes COOK 30-45 minutes MAKES 16 servings

}

GARLIC CHEDDAR PULL-APART BREAD by // Alden Herrera photos // Catalina Parra

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N

o matter the month or weather, bread is never out of season, and neither is easy baking. This loaf makes for a sophisticated twist on the average dinner roll, but it is even simpler to create, thanks to store-bought biscuit dough. You can edit the recipe however you choose; if you want your bread to be extra cheesy or have a bit more heat, you can make it so. Use your hands when eating this dish, as the soft layers of the loaf are made to be pulled apart. Eat it as a starter with your dinner, as a side dish, or even as a snack during a busy day of classes. While this recipe is a savory one, the technique used to create the loaf can be easily translated to make a sweet or breakfast bread instead. To evoke more springtime flavors, use this recipe with lemon zest, cream cheese, almonds and blueberries. Each loaf creates about sixteen pullapart pieces.

adapted from the food network magazine, march 2016 issue 24

bite | spring 2016

• 2 cans of biscuit dough (those made to have layers work well) • 4 tbsp. softened butter • 2 tbsp. chopped parsley • 2 grated garlic cloves • ¼ tsp. red pepper flakes • 1 big pinch each of salt and pepper • ¾ cup shredded cheddar • ¼ cup shredded cheddar set aside do

1. Roll and stretch the contents of two cans of ready-to-bake biscuit dough on a lightly floured surface. Combine the softened butter, parsley, garlic, red pepper flakes, salt, and pepper. Spread this mix evenly all over the dough. Sprinkle the ¾ cup cheddar evenly over the dough as well. 2. Assemble the loaf by first cutting the flat dough into 16 squares. Then, make four stacks of four squares each. 3. Place each stack on its side in a buttered 8x4 inch loaf pan. Separate the dough layers if needed so the dough fills the pan. 4. Let the bread rest while preheating the oven to 350°F. Bake for about 35 to 45 minutes (depending on how soft you want the loaf ) until it is browned and cooked through. Let it cool in the pan for 15 minutes, then loosen it with a knife. Let it cool on a plate for 30 minutes.


Salted Caramel Dream Tart by // Helen Brady

photos // Luise Bublitz

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quabbling over who would take care of dessert for an International House pot-luck dinner resulted in our salted caramel fruit tart, a new take on the overdone apple pie, being the favourite choice. The salted caramel might take a couple of tries to get right, but the results are more than impressive and the pinch of salt saves the tart from being too sweet. While you can buy ready-made dough, making it yourself proves surprisingly easy and rounds off a well-spent afternoon baking. The caramel, apple and pear combination can easily be served in the form of a crumble or mini, muffin-sized tarts; we’ve added honey walnuts, cinnamon and berries on different occasions to keep our guests wanting more. The versatility of possible fillings makes the basic recipe ideal for every season and occasion- if you’re willing to share!

{

PREP 20 minutes COOK 20 minutes MAKES 2 servings

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}

For the dough • 2-1/4 cups all-purpose flour • 1/4 cup granulated sugar • 1/2 tsp. salt • 3/4 cup unsalted butter • 5 tbsp. water For the caramel • 1/2 cup granulated sugar

• 2 tbsp. unsalted butter • 1 tsp. salt • 3 tbsp. heavy cream For assembly • 2 apples thinly sliced • 2 pears thinly sliced • 1 tbsp. all-purpose flour • 1 large egg yolk • 1 tbsp. heavy cream • honey walnuts (optional)

do

1. Mix the flour, sugar, butter, water and salt in a mixing bowl and knead until the dough forms a loose ball. 2. Shape the dough into 2 flat disks about 6 inches in diameter. Wrap disks and freeze for 10 to 15 minutes. 3. In a saucepan, combine sugar, butter, and salt with 2 tbsp. water. Cook over medium heat, stirring, until the butter melts and the sugar dissolves. 4. Reduce the heat to low and cook, swirling the pan occasionally, until the mixture turns deep golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes. 5. Remove from the heat and pour in the cream. Return the pan to the heat and cook, stirring, until smooth, about 2 minutes. Set aside to cool until warm.

6. Coat a tart pan with butter. Roll both disks of dough into a 12-inch round. 7. Roll one over the prepared tart pan. With a sharp knife cut the other into seven or eight strips. 8. Preheat the oven to 400°F. 9. In a medium bowl, toss the apples and pears with the flour and salt and arrange in an even layer in the crust. 10. Drizzle the caramel over the fruit and place the pastry strips on top of the tart, pressing the edges of the strips into the edge of the tart shell. 11. Dot the tart with the butter in between the strips. With a brush, coat the lattice strips with an egg and crème mixture. 12. Bake the tart until the crust is golden brown, 40 to 45 minutes. recipes

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JAMAICAN BANANA FRITTERS by // Analiese Batchelor + Moyo Abiona photos // Fiona Gasaway

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s one of the world’s healthiest foods, bananas are rich in vitamins and minerals. They are a good source of fiber, and they also afford cardiovascular benefits by providing potassium. There are almost one thousand varieties of bananas, and this versatile fruit has been used in hundreds of recipes, with permutations of its preparation possibilities spanning breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Bananas are used to make a wide variety of products, including banana flour, baby food, banana chips, banana bread, and even banana ketchup. Banana fritters are a popular Jamaican breakfast food that can be enjoyed at any time of day; its fried delectability invokes satisfaction from this tasty and classic interpretation of the tropical fruit.

{

PREP 15 minutes COOK 10 minutes MAKES 3-4 servings

}

get

• 3 ripe bananas • 2 tbsp. of brown sugar • 1 ½ tsp.baking powder • 1 tsp. vanilla extract • 6 tbsp. flour

• ½ tsp. grated nutmeg • ½ tsp. cinnamon • Juice of ½ lemon or lime • Oil for frying do

1. Crush bananas until creamy and add vanilla extract and lemon juice. 2. Mix together flour, sugar, baking powder, nutmeg, and cinnamon. 3. Add crushed bananas to the dry ingredients. 4. Add 1 tbsp. oil to a hot frying pan, and scoop in a large spoonful of batter. 5. Shallow fry until the edges are crisp and brown, turning halfway through. 6. Sprinkle lemon or lime juice on cooked banana fritter and serve. 7. Add pinch of a mixture of powdered cinnamon and sugar to taste. 26 bite | spring 2016


{

PREP 15 minutes COOK 25 minutes MAKES 24 servings

}

Recipe modified from Foodnetwork.com

OAT JELLY BARS by // rachel weinbren + Naomi Gancz

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photos // FIONA GASAWAY

ilemma: Fourth meal ended an hour ago, but you’re still craving your favorite Cathey dessert. Solution: Look no further! Snagged straight from the dessert station, this crumbly, sweet delight gets better with every bite. Let it bake while you finish your problem set or throw the ingredients together during a break from your long readings. The fruit jelly and crumbly topping make the bars reminiscent of blueberry cobbler, while the oats and dried fruit bring health and texture to your tastebuds. Eat these bars warm and gooey, or wrap them up for later; no matter the time, these are great for snacks, desserts, or even breakfast. The sweet sugar will wake you and your tastebuds up and add some energy to your day. Whether you’re up late studying for finals or just looking for a quick sugar fix, these colorful and easy bites will be sure to fuel and satisfy!

get

• 1 ¾ sticks salted butter, melted • 1 ½ cups oats • 1 cup packed brown sugar • 1 ½ cups all-purpose flour • 1 tsp. baking powder • 1/4 tsp. salt • 1/4 - 1/2 cup dried fruit (we used blueberries and strawberries) • Half of a 10-12 oz. jar of fruit jelly (or however much you would like to put!) do

1. Pre-heat the oven to 350 F. 2. Add parchment paper to the bottom of a 9” x 13” pan. 3. Melt the butter. 4. Add the oats, brown sugar, flour, baking powder, salt, and dried fruit to the butter and mix together. 5. Add about 3/4 of this mixture to the pan and pat down to create a crust. 6. Cover this crust with jelly. 7. Add the leftover crumble equally over the top of the jelly. 8. Bake for 25-30 minutes. 9. Let cool and cut. recipes

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28 bite | spring 2016


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