style in progress
#2/2015
We Would Open on Sundays. Richard Engelhorn
Content Curation. Ariadne’s Thread in the Labyrinth of the World Wide Web /// Designed by Twitter. The Impact of Social Media on Fashion /// The Real Life. Multi-Channel in Practice /// The Boot Pinches. Italy Needs to Reinvent Itself
â‚Ź 6.90
Zukunft braucht Herkunft.
www.meindl-fashions.de
002 editorial
Methods and Solutions
Welcome to these lines. How can multi-channel manifest itself? Richard Engelhorn and his colleagues on the management board of his Mannheim-based retail institution Engelhorn have been pondering this issue for quite some time. A twoyear renovation period and a double-digit million investment later, it is clear how the combination of online and offline can work. Nevertheless, the company’s visions have limitations. Late at night, customers are allowed to pick up a parcel, to eat in the department stores’ restaurant, and have a pair of trousers prepared for adjustment. However, they are not allowed to purchase anything in the store itself. During an interview conducted by Stephan Huber and Nicoletta Schaper (The Longview, from page 032), Richard Engelhorn describes his desired solution to the problem. Multi-channel may highlight boundaries and limitations, but this new form of “communicating and selling anytime and anywhere” also breaks down boundaries. The British online retailer Asos utilises no less than 21 communication channels to stay in touch with its customers. Petrina Engelke met up for a chat with Asos’ Sedge Beswick (Full Blast on 21 Channels, from page 045) and managed to persuade the social media manager to reveal a lot of interesting
facts about her business. We can also offer impressive boundary busters such as Ajaz Ahmed, Jennifer Roebuck, and Lucy Yeomans (The Implementers, from page 056). These extraordinary individuals confidently lead their companies and clients into new territory. An article by Martina Müllner and Dörte Welti (The Real Life, from page 046) proves that the wheel does not always need to be reinvented. Our two authors have picked four ideas that highlight the core competencies of the stationary retail industry and can be used to gain a competitive advantage. Because let’s be honest, the online retail industry has already learned its lesson. To highlight this fact, it picked up the misnomer of the year: curating. Author Quynh Tran took a close look at small and large players (Content Curation - The New On/Off Relationship of the Retail Trade, from page 038). As you can see, this issue has placed a huge emphasis on a subject that concerns us all. style in progress’ ambition, to offer food for thought by compiling complete dossiers regarding current challenges, is always wonderfully supported by Elisabeth Prock-Huber, our art director, who pays even more attention than usual to such special themes. Naturally, the same applies to our excellent illustrator Claudia Meitert, who always manages to translate the thoughts of our authors into expressive images. Expressive is also the term that best describes the trends of the ongoing order season, compiled by photographer Bernhard Musil, Stephan Huber, Martina Müllner, and Kay Alexander Plonka. The segments coordinated by Isabel Faiss, namely Right Now (from page 008) and Want It (from page 022), are no less exciting. We truly hope that you can discover something new! Enjoy your read! Your style in progress team
Cover Photo: Peter Schaffrath
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004 CONTENT
032
THE LONGVIEW 032 “Where We Are, We Want to be Number One.” Richard Engelhorn, the managing partner of Engelhorn, on the joys of a successful business
WHAT’S THE STORY MULTICHANNEL 038 Content Curation - The New On/Off Relationship of the Retail Trade Unlimited choice overtaxes - online shops discover the concept of recommendations 042 #everyoneisadesigner Suddenly everyone has a say - the democratisation of fashion design in the social media era 045 Full Blast on 21 Channels Asos speaks the language of its target groups - fluent, fast, and direct 038
046 The Real Life Multi-channel also has a life beyond the Internet 052 An Open Love Triangle How brands strive to let their retail partners claim a piece of the online pie 056 The Implementers There are companies that have already made cross-channel fiction become reality 061 Casanova Emerges From Underground An opinion piece by Martina Müllner
062 Outside the Box Brands are not created by the shoe retail industry - why fashion retail leads the way 064 Casa dolce casa* Italy’s fashion manufacturers and the location issue Bella Italia’s to-do list for a successful future
064
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067 “Luxury is Undemocratic” Luca Caprai enjoys manufacturing in Italy - because luxury needs roots
006 CONTENT
FASHION 070 Dress If You Must 078 Trends Autumn/Winter 2015/16
IN STORE 070
086 The New Treasure Chamber Franz & Emil/Dresden 088 What a Bunch of “Töfflibueben” Denim & Iron/Zurich 090 Avant-garde is Back Wormland/Berlin 092 The Lucky Strike A Good Man/Berlin 093 Splendid Decisions Golden Carrot/Zurich 094 Across the Big Pond Ella + Rubi/Portland
086
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STANDARDS 002 EDITORIAL 008 RIGHT NOW 022 WANT IT 096 EDITOR'S LETTER /about us
RIGHT NOW
008
Blauer USA
High Performance Outerwear
For the autumn/winter 2015/16 season, the Blauer USA collection returns to focusing on the reinterpretation of originals from the historical archives of American army and police uniforms. It is a tribute to the brand’s own DNA. Blauer USA has stepped up its use of Taslan nylon, which is the material that is actually used for US police clothing. True to the brand’s slogan “Uncompromising Performance”, removable inner jackets made of down or wool (which can be buttoned in and out easily), new materials and prints for down jackets, and taped seams guarantee a high degree of functionality. The trousers of the men’s and women’s collections are cut significantly narrower and are made primarily of bi-stretch and cotton fabrics. The brand will also debut a range of sweatpants made of cotton fleece and light wool, which is aimed at highlighting American lifestyle as Blauer USA’s main focus. www.blauer.it
New prints on down jackets grace the Blauer USA fashion collection.
Japanese high-end performance Parajumpers presents its first capsule collection in co-operation with Yoshinoro Ono.
Parajumpers
Designer Capsule Collection
For the autumn/winter 2015 season, Massimo Rossetti, the creative director of Parajumpers, has developed four capsule collections in collaboration with internationally renowned designers. The six-piece collection named “Kegen”, which was realised in co-operation with Japanese designer Yoshinoro Ono, is a particularly special highlight. In the Japanese language, “Kegen” is an ancient term that describes the appearance of historic gods and Buddhas in the present, as well as their altered physical guise. This philosophical concept, as well as the reinterpretation of this natural phenomenon, served as the inspiration for Yoshinoro Ono’s capsule collection for Parajumpers. He utilised new and innovative technical elements for the first time. One example is the use of so-called “non-stitch” stitching, which is not visible from the outside. Due to high-performance laminated stretch materials, as well as welded seams and zippers, the jackets are extremely water repellent. In addition, the collection includes a model with nylon lining and ultra-fine micro-fibre insulation, which is made of strong, double-woven satin with a matt surface that also reflects light. www.parajumpers.it
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Bread & Butter
To Be Continued…
Mid-December 2014, Bread & Butter GmbH & Co KG filed for insolvency. One day after the trade shows in Berlin, Karl-Heinz Müller, the chief executive of the company, announced plans for another trade fair with a revised concept at Tempelhof Airport from 2 July to 4 July (Thursday to Saturday). “Investors have already supplied the financial resources for a relaunch”, says Christian Brockdorff, the provisional administrator. “Our aim is to successfully restructure the fashion show.” During the event “Back to the Street”, which took place with 40 brands in the offices of BBB and the adjacent “Blue Yard” during the Berlin Fashion Week, the majority of the visitors from the fashion and retail industries expressed their support for a return of Bread & Butter in a poll. The cornerstones of the new concept are the early date and the same event duration, the clear structure of fashion clusters according to target groups, the “Design & Agents Area” for agents representing relevant target groups, so-called “Lean Management & Production” for a significantly lower price per square metre, clearly defined areas for invited trade visitors (B2B), a clearly defined “consumer area” for the brand’s marketing measures (B2C), the involvement of lifestyle brands from outside the classic fashion industry, and large-scale evening events such as parties or concerts in collaboration with brands and sponsors. www.breadandbutter.com
Freedom of choice - trade show boss Müller set up polling stations to determine the future of BBB.
www.minimum.dk /#minimum_fashion
pitti immagine /firenze who’s next /paris mode fabriek /amsterdam revolver /copenhagen
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Cividini
Back and Forth
Spiewak
The way back is a long one, especially if one is serious about a comeback. This is proven by Cividini, an Italian brand that guaranteed retailers encouraging sales figures in its heyday. However, acquisitions and outsourcing diluted the foundation of Cividini’s fame: splendid quality, especially splendid knitwear. Owner Piero Cividini is fighting back. He has regained control of the brand, moved all important operations back in-house, and is now satisfied to eat more humble pie with old fans and new friends. It is safe to say that Piero Cividini is willing to let others strive for world domination. This philosophy also applies to the new sales agent for the German-speaking countries. Birgit Wissemann is in for the long haul and intends to return the brand to its former glory in small steps. High-quality retailers seem impressed; influential trendsetters have already placed first orders. www.cividini.com
New Agency for Germany New York-based cult brand Spiewak is looking to
continue the successful development of its German business with a new distribution partner. Starting with the current season, Munich-based Agentur Kappler is responsible for both the mainline collection and the Golden Fleece capsule collection. The latter was created based on Spiewak’s rich archive of models. www.spiewak.com, www.agentur-kappler.de
Parts Denim focuses on cool, over-dyed styles.
Many retailers have fond memories of Cividini’s glory days. The brand is now making a comeback in a smaller and more subtle fashion.
Parts Denim
Depth
After no more than two seasons, the smaller sophisticated Parts Denim collection by Vito Santoro has secured no less than 71 renowned customers, including The Listener, Fidelio, Helmut Eder, and Braun. Following the first men’s collection for autumn/winter 2014, the brand introduced its first styles for women one season later, which was listed by Donna Hannover, Ciolina, and Fischer Singen. Since then, the fashion agency Ventrella has been appointed as the distributor for the German-speaking countries. “Our sales ratio stands at 80%; we are very pleased with the success”, says Vito Santoro, who launched his own Parts Denim label after working for the likes of Drykorn and Closed. Special washings are one of Santoro’s specialities. In the current season, he presents five models for men and six models for women, ranging from slim fit to comfort fit. Indigo is the base colour, stained with grey and black tones for more colour depth. The purchase prices range from 55 to 79 Euros. www.parts-denim.de
New man on board - Robert Polet signs on for North Sails.
North Sails Apparel
New Heading
Since 1957, North Sails has been one of the most innovative manufacturer of ship sails. During the Pitti Uomo trade show in Florence, North Sails Apparel announced that Robert Polet has joined the company as a partner. The passionate yachtsman, who is a former CEO of Gucci Group, strives to utilise his vast experience to transform the sportswear collection of the well-established sail maker into a pioneering global brand. The new shareholder and CEO Eric Bijlsma (former Scotch & Soda CEO) have already changed the heading of North Sails’ autumn/winter 2015 collection by dividing it into four lines in co-operation with a team of yachtsmen, fashion designers, and product developers. The “Black Line” is focused on clean designs and selective distribution, while “Deep Blue” is a classic maritime collection. “Ocean Blue” is aimed at a significantly younger clientele, while “Iconic Line” offers timeless classics. www.northsails.com
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BMH-WERBEAGENTUR.DE
herbst winter zWANZiG fUEnf zehn CIFF
29.01.- 01.02.2015 STAND C1-009A BELLA CENTER CENTER BOULEVARD 5 DK-2300 COPENHAGEN S
DÜSSELDORF
SUPREME WOMEN & MEN 31.01.- 02.02.2015 UNITED FASHION RATHER STRASSE 49E I 2.OG 40476 DÜSSELDORF
MÜNCHEN
SUPREME WOMEN & MEN 14.02.- 17.02.2015 AGENTUR MARTIN STECKEL C/O ROLF GRIESINGER INTERNATIONAL MODE GMBH AM KOSTTOR 1 80538 MÜNCHEN
www.bloom-fashion.c om
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Marc O’Polo Pure
International Expansion
The company from Stephanskirchen has decided to take a step forward by launching a new, exclusive women’s collection named Marc O’Polo Pure, and also intends to step up its distribution efforts in Austria and Switzerland during the autumn/winter 2015/16 season. The reason for this move is the success of the collection, which was initially offered in a few brand stores in Germany, as well as a handful of own test stores in Austria and Switzerland. The list of location cities included Salzburg, Linz, Vienna, Zurich, Lucerne, and Basel. Mairinger GmbH continues to represent the collection in Austria via its showroom in Fashion Mall Salzburg, while the Swiss market is covered by Bollag-Guggenheim Wholesale AG, which runs a showroom in Glattbrugg. The core retail prices range from 49 to 129 Euros for jerseys, 129 to 299 Euros for knitwear, and 249 to 349 Euros for blazers, which means Marc O’Polo is clearly targeting premium retailers, as well as selected exclusive partners. Marc O’Polo believes it is well positioned within a competitive environment including the likes of Hugo, Drykorn, Steffen Schraut, and Schumacher. www.marc-o-polo.com
IQ+ Berlin
“Gentlemen, You Are The Elite…”
The cult movie “Top Gun” was not only a source of inspiration for the new collection of IQ+ Berlin, but also supplied a famous quote that turns out to be the perfect motto for the brand. One of the main focuses for autumn/winter 2015/16 was to expand the menswear line. Faithful, robust blousons and aviator jackets made of nylon blends with Curly lambskin collars, oversized parkas with detachable inner jackets (made of neoprene with lambskin patches), and authentic field jackets made of garment-dyed gabardine stand for luxurious urbanity and the highest outerwear standards. Along the same lines, the brand will also debut a parka for children. In the women’s range, the proportion of wool qualities has increased significantly. Partially ready-to-wear, softly draping coats and boxy jackets with open hems and hairy, fluffy surfaces complement real double-face wool coats with relaxed H-silhouettes and parka attitude, as well as capes as perfect additions to sneakers. www.iqfashion.de
Marc O’Polo Pure is defined by simple elegance and high quality standards.
Napapijri
Adventure as DNA
Road trips through the US, stories about urban dropouts leaving the life on Wall Street behind and touring the country in an old school bus - such tales are how Napapijri highlights its own brand philosophy in the coming season. The jacket collection for women and men is defined by functionality, paired with highly fashionable design standards. However, the brand also upholds its extensive NOS basics line and therefore offers retailers a cross-season service. The distribution of the Napapijri collections is handled by ACO Handels GmbH in Salzburg (www.acomode.at). The brand will not be present at the upcoming trade shows, because it has decided to present the collections to its customers in the form of exclusive events. www.napapijri.com
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IQ+ Berlin’s men’s collection is inspired by the cult film “Top Gun”. Napapijri combines functionality and design.
CANDICECOOPER.NET
PIECES
of A R T love-economy.de
FEBRUARY 07.02.15 – 09.02.15 15.02.15 – 18.02.15 17.02.15 – 19.02.15 21.02.15 – 23.01.15 23.02.15 – 25.02.15
I I I I I
FAIRS FALL WINTER 2015 / 16
PREMIUM I MÜNCHEN I A2-02 MICAM I MILANO I L28-30 FN PLATFORM I LAS VEGAS MARCH TRANOI NEW YORK I NYC 06.03.15 – 08.03.15 I MODA MADE IN ITALY I MÜNCHEN SOLE COMMERCE I NYC 06.03.15 – 09.03.15 I TRANOI FEMME I PARIS
AGENTUR CHRISTOPH SIEGEL KANTONSSTRASSE 1 CH-8807 FREIENBACH T 0041 44 533 0130
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Atelier Gardeur
New National Distribution Gardeur, the Mönchengladbach-based specialist
Alongside Munich and Sylt, the Hamburg-based store is Woolrich’s third flagship store in Germany.
for trousers and skirts with perfect fits, currently supplies approximately 3,000 customers in 50 countries. One of the brand’s main points on the agenda for 2015 is the strengthening of its German distribution concept. With immediate effect, Germany’s only fully integrated trousers atelier can count on the distribution expertise of the fashion agencies Kimpfler/Axel Bayer (for Bavaria) and Bölke (for Hesse, Rhineland-Palatine, and Saarland). It is an important step towards the ultimate goal of Gerhard Kränzle, the chief executive of Gardeur, who wants to turn his company into the fastest and most consistently vertically aligned trouser specialist. Kränzle: “The new distribution setup in Eschborn and Munich enables us to enhance our local customer relations. We chose the fashion agency Kimpfler/Axel Bayer and the team consisting of Dragana, Ramon, and Sven Bölke due to their established market positioning and their excellent ties to the retail industry.” www.atelier-gardeur.de
Woolrich
Flagship Number Three
After opening stores in Munich and on the island of Sylt, the premium sports brand Woolrich John Rich & Bros established itself in Hamburg this autumn. The store is located at the address “Hohen Bleichen 17”, which is one of the city’s most attractive locations. This is not only due to the beauty of the building itself, but also to well-known neighbours such as Polo Ralph Lauren, Armani, and Ludwig Reiter. The generous 300 square metres of retail space are spread out over two floors and offer sufficient space to display the entire Woolrich brand world, which ranges from outerwear to complete lifestyle collections. The store concept was developed by the worldwide licensee WP Lavori and is inspired by the label’s more than 180 years of history. The third German flagship store is managed by KUH Arctic Gmbh, a subsidiary of the distribution agency Komet und Helden GmbH. www.woolrich.eu
The new year brings a new distribution setup. Trouser specialist Gardeur aims to strengthen its national distribution network, by teaming up with the fashion agencies Kimpfler/Axel Bayer and Bölke.
Better Rich’s new knitwear collection includes soft teddy looks made of high-end wool blends.
Better Rich
Cuddle Factor
For the coming autumn/winter season, Better Rich has added 50 modern, casual knitwear items for all occasions to its collection. The main focus is on voluminous coarse knit, striking structural patterns such as wide ribs and thick cable-knit, and outdoor styles. The latter include, among others, cardigan coats and v-neck pullovers. With boxy - yet also casual - oversized cuts and, in some cases, wide sleeve shapes with narrow cuffs, the soft merino/angora and merino/alpaca wool blends have been given a fresh fashionable twist. The high-end knitwear, in the typical Better Rich colour palette of snow-white, navy, and all shades of grey, completes the brand’s collection. The new items are also available in a number of trend colours, such as forest-green, blueish teal, and marsala-brown. Elaborate details, such as over-dyed mini-tapes on shoulder/upper arm sections or in the cuff area, as well as special zipper solutions, provide fashionable sophistication. Following the order round from January to March 2015, the items will be delivered between July and August 2015. www.better-rich.com
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www.marlino.de
016 RIGHT NOW
The Italian cult brand Superga strives to become an option for the cold season.
Free Mountain
Jacket Experts
Superga
Fit for the Winter
Superga in winter? Hell yeah! Based on the presentations at various trade shows, it has become quite clear that the Italian cult shoe does not want to be a “season product like ice”. This is how Marc Kofler, the new shareholder in Adventure Modeagentur, describes the new approach. Together with Bernhard Aschauer, he wants to prove to the German retail industry that canvas shoes can be successful in winter too. Well, not exactly canvas shoes, but models with crepe soles and leather as outer material, combined with imaginative patterns, large Pepita patterns, and wild cat prints. A comprehensible price range - with retail prices between 79 and 119 Euros - is, according to Kofler, “fundamentally important” for success. The aim to transform Superga into an all-year product suitable for all kinds of sales areas and stores is supported by the popularity of the shoe itself. Whether you are a blogger or a fan who still remembers the “first spring” of the brand, the products are appreciated by all generations. However, Superga is not only beefing up for the winter. “In summer, we can offer our customers a second order and delivery date alongside our stock and NOS programmes. This ensures that there are enough products at the PoS in June, which is traditionally Superga’s strongest month”, Marc Kofler explains. www.superga.it
Now that’s a coup! Free Mountain, a fashion agency based in Austria, has significantly expanded its jacket competence by adding Paltò, Pyrenex, and C.P. Company to its brand portfolio. In addition to the three new brands, the agency has also retained the labels Add, Handstich, and IQ+ Berlin. This means Free Mountain now represents six strong jacket brands that all serve a clearly defined market niche. “The market is changing and demands new products”, says Andreas Schmied, the owner of Free Mountain. The agency has high hopes for the comeback of formal coats and jackets, which are the core competency of the Italian newcomer Paltò. “It offers a new look that needs no explanation. It explains itself at first glance. That is exactly what our customers want and we, as an agency, need more brands like this.” Labels: Add, Bloom, C.P. Company, Deyk, Gwynedds, Handstich, IQ+ Berlin, Inverni, Ivi, Mason’s, Paltò, Pyrenex, Sophie Free Mountain, Salzburg/Austria, andreas@freemountain.at, www.freemountain.at
Borrelli
New Sports wear Line
The new Borrelli Sport line shows clean and elegant pieces.
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During the Pitti Immagine Uomo trade show in Florence in January 2015, the Italian brand Borrelli unveiled its new sportswear range Luigi Borrelli Sport, which consists of selected elegant casual items, down and leather jackets, and casually cut shirts. The urban, clean collection in white, ecru, black, and grey is aimed at upscale retailers. Patrick Coppolecchia-Reinartz, the managing partner of Munich-based fashion agency D-Tails, believes that the new collection offers great potential for exclusive premium customers. Starting next season, he will present Luigi Borrelli Sports - and the other lines Luigi Borrelli, Luigi Borrelli Royal Collection, and Luigi Borrelli Denim - exclusively in the Milan-based showroom by appointment. There the customer has the opportunity to experience the brand in all its diversity and within the context of its own world. The made-to-measure shirt remains the key item of the collection. Borrelli offers its international customers a very special service: the shirts can be delivered within two weeks after ordering. The brand sold no less than 13,000 tailored shirts last year, which is an enormous figure for this particular segment. www.luigiborrelli.com
Jacket and coats by Paltò are one of the highlights in the agency’s portfolio for the new order season
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FTC Cashmere is a sustainable regular in the portfolio of CCT.
CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl
Sustainable
Jasmin Ebner and Christian Teufl, the management duo of fashion agency CCT, believes it is no longer important to chase every penny. “Instead, we now focus on sustainability and responsible production processes”, Jasmin Ebner adds. Such awareness can be established within the long-term partnerships the agency has with its brands. “We used to team up with collections we liked, but today we ask how the collections come about”, Christian Teufl emphasises. One example is 120% Lino, an Italian linen collection which not only produces in its home country and utilises a variety of recycled materials, but also offers highly innovative prints. “The consumer awareness for sustainably manufactured products is growing”, Jasmin Ebner argues. Biological, fair, sustainable - these terms also play a big role in her private life; the same applies to her business partner. Naturally, the agency is no exception. CCT wants to set a good example by also promoting goods such as bio-juice and bio-wine. A prime example within the collection portfolio is SeeMe, a jewellery collection created by Caterina Occhio. Initially, she was active in the human rights department of the EU in Brussels, but then decided to launch SeeMe, a project which strives to give new hope to women who became victims of domestic violence. “We are proud to say that we have managed to make Austria a very successful market for SeeMe”, Jasmin Ebner says with pride. She clearly enjoys contributing to such an important project. FTC Cashmere remains one of the pioneers regarding many sustainability issues. It utilises SeaCell, a self-developed fibre which is now having a positive effect beyond the borders of Mongolia. It processes sea weed, whereby the fibre becomes suitable for all seasons by adding 50% cashmere. In addition, it is pleasantly cooling and soothing. “We’re increasingly turning to sustainability - this is the path we want to follow in the future”, Jasmin Ebner concludes. Labels Austria: 0039 Italy, 120% Lino, Alessandra Chamonix, Colmar, Colmar Originals, DNA, FTC Cashmere, Furla, Grace, Hunter, Lua Accessoires, Marlino, Nine in the Morning, OSC Outdoor Survival Canada, Post & Co, SeeMe, St. Emile, Top-Tee Luxury T-Shirt, Twin-Set by Simona Barbieri, Vintage Racing 1683; Labels Germany: Furla CCT Collectionen Christian Teufl, Salzburg/Austria and Munich/Germany, office@teufl.cc, www.teufl.cc
RIGHT NOW 017
Die Hinterhofagentur
Die Markenbotschafter
Der Start der Pariser Frauenkollektion Des Petits Hauts hätte nicht besser laufen können: „Wir konnten den Nachorderwünschen in der vergangenen Herbst-/Winter-Saison kaum nachkommen“, sagt Agenturinhaber Dominik Meuer. Insgesamt fällt sein Saisonresümee positiv aus: Das Gesamtkonzept der Herrenkollektion Bob kam im Handel sehr gut an und auch die katalanische Herrenhemdenkollektion von Koike gewinnt immer mehr Liebhaber. Erfreulich verlief auch der Vororderstart der italienischen Damen- und Herrenkollektion von Breco’s: „Die zeitgenaue Lieferung und ein umfangreiches Lagerprogramm machen Breco’s zu einem Produkt, das am Markt sehr konkurrenzfähig ist“, so Meuer. Für die laufende Orderrunde sieht er großes Potenzial. Eine konsequente modische Weiterentwicklung zeigt auch die Michael Daunenjackenkollektion von Cape Horn, ebenso wie die Hosenmarke Superpants Brockmann (left) Malte Kötteritz, mit grafischen Prints. Die toskanische Herrenstrickkollektionand Wool & Co wird in ofAls der kommenden Orderrunde erstmals ein Frühprogramm für Julifounders anbieten. Heritage Neuzugang der Agentur präsentiert sich die traditionsreiche amerikanische Agents. Workwear-Kollektion von Smith’s American – die mittlerweile aus Italien kommt – mit Schuhen, authentischer Workwear und kernigen Denims. Die Hinterhofagentur tritt als Botschafter für neue, unverbrauchte Labels und Produkte auf, erklärt Dominik Meuer: „Die Endverbraucher sind heute topinformiert, viel unterwegs und vielfach Heritage Agents gelangweilt vom Mainstream, der an jeder Ecke zu finden ist. Bei uns findet man eigenständige Kollektionen mit Charakter, die aber immer kommerziell umsetzbar sind. Wir alle leben vom Verkauf!“ Labels: Bob, Breco’s, Camplin, Cape Horn, Des Petits Hauts, Koike, Out of Order, Smith’s American, Sophie, Stramici, Superpants, Wool & Co Die Hinterhofagentur, München/Deutschland, d.meuer@diehinterhofagentur.de, www.diehinterhofagentur.de Malte Kötteritz and Michael Brockmann founded Heritage Agents in March 2014. The two businessmen bring a lot of know-how, many years of experience at Holy Fashion Group, and a huge amount of passion to the table. Autumn/winter 2015/16 is already the agency’s second order season, and the two owners are very satisfied. The question of how one can distinguish one’s profile from other established agencies is answered by the portfolio concept and the basic philosophy on which the two fashion experts base their everyday business. “For us, service is paramount. Based on our industry experience, we know how important continuous customer care is, especially when it comes to support at the PoS. Therefore, we have a manageable portfolio consisting of seven brands. It is simply impossible to represent more brands with our high level of personal commitment. We have not organised our business by brands, but by regions. This means our agency can always be as close as possible to the customers in Germany and Austria”, Malte Kötteritz explains. He covers the Austrian and South German markets, while Michael Brockmann serves the rest of Germany, all the way up to the Far North of the country. Their brand portfolio is centred on menswear in all its facets. The agency has a product specialist for every business segment, such as the shirt manufacturer Xacus, the jersey supplier Capobianco, chukka boots by Wally Walker, luxurious chinos by Pantaloni Torino, and jackets by Nabholz. Malte Kötteritz believes that the complete collection of Lardini, which is a new addition to the portfolio for this season, has great potential in the premium segment (purchase prices for suits in simple designs range from 250 to 450 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.7). “We equip men from head to toe. We always ensure that all products have an honest background, and that the companies behind the items are predictable, accessible, and present. 90% of the businesses we co-operate with are family-managed”, Kötteritz says. The 250 square metre showroom in Munich’s “Lodenfrey Park” is divided into two sections: 50% of the display area is dedicated to the Pantaloni Torino collection, while the other 50% is a multi-label area. The showroom was already bursting at the seams after the first order round, which is why the agency secured an additional 200 square metre area for Lardini one storey higher. Heritage Agents certainly hit the ground running and is already a powerful player within “Lodenfrey Park”. Labels: Adriano Meneghetti, Capobianco, Lardini, Nabholz, Pantaloni Torino, RVR Lardini, Wally Walker, Xacus Heritage Agents, Munich/Germany, info@heritage-agents.com, www.heritage-agents.com
Products with (Added) Value
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Room Nine Agency
Grounded
Torsten Müller has relocated his Room Nine Agency - and its four employees - in the yellow house located in Düsseldorf’s “Rather Strasse”. The new premises are on the ground floor, not in one of the upper storeys. This is for a very good reason. After only recently severing ties with Peuterey, the new showroom offers ample room for the presentation of the agency’s new highlights, which are C.P. Company (for all of Germany) and Deyk (for North Rhine-Westphalia), as well as Pyrenex and Save the Duck. The latter has proved very successful over the last year, mainly because of the brand’s excellent price/performance ratio. “My wife and I also manage four stores, which means that we - as all other retailers - are quite aware that expensive outdoor jackets are struggling. We all lost money with such jackets, but I am convinced that the pre-orders will be reduced drastically during the upcoming season. That’s great for us, because we can offer Save the Duck products, which are a great alternative.” Naturally, winning Peta’s Vegan Fashion Award has boosted the sales figures of Save the Duck. It also helps that Save the Duck is invested in his organisation. Daniela Holnsteiner, formerly an export manager at Peuterey, has the right credentials to successfully expand the brand’s international business, especially as the German-born manager has chosen Italy as her home. Labels: C.P. Company, Deyk, Jeff, Pyrenex, Save the Duck, Spalding Room Nine Agency, Düsseldorf/Germany, torsten.mueller@roomnineagency.de
Another Souvenir
Oh So Special
Room Nine Agency is now wearing the breeches: Torsten Müller and his team have agreed to distribute the brand Deyk in North Rhine-Westphalia.
Aco Österreich
“We Want to be a Reliable Partner”
Vanessa Baroni-Wieler and Tommy Wieler learned a lot during their agency’s first full season. For the second season, Another Souvenir boasts a brand portfolio of a significantly higher quality. “Our main focus is on accessories and special product collections”, Tommy Wieler explains. The new additions to the portfolio basically flung themselves at the agency and include the jewellery brand Nach Bijoux, the cashmere collection Zinga, the boiled wool line Angie Miller Pure, and True Born, a collection that focuses on fur and leather items. Successful ranges, such as Wood’d and Vanessa Baroni, expanded significantly last season. “In the case of Vanessa Baroni, we had the most successful season since the brand’s launch. The beauty of it is that we managed to generate revenue growth with quality customers, not with mere volume accounts. Existing customers upped their orders, which means they also sold more”, the jewellery designer Vanessa Baroni-Wieler reveals. The two agency owners are on the road a lot, an accepted occupational hazard which is necessary in order to maintain a successful distribution network. “The fashion retail industry is tough at the moment, but also offers a lot of opportunities. The retailers and customers are sated, but still open-minded. If you can deal with this contradiction, there’s no need to complain”, Tommy Wieler says. Labels: Angie Miller Pure, Hot Lava, Karta Originale, Nach Bijoux, Spirited, True Born, Vanessa Baroni, Wood’d, Zinga Cashmere Another Souvenir, Leinfelden/Germany, tommy@anothersouvenir.de, www.anothersouvenir.de
Premium sportswear, designer collections, and modern classics are the three core competencies of Aco Austria. “In our capacity as a fashion agency, we strive to offer optimal customer service while continuing to be a reliable business partner”, says Rudolf Kail, the managing director of Aco Austria. To achieve this, he added the clean-feminine, trend-oriented, and Italian made women’s outerwear by Atos Lombardini to the agency’s portfolio. Another new addition is Gas, which offers sporty-casual complete looks for men and women that are aimed at the broader and younger market segment. Napapijri has been a portfolio classic since 2008; the Aco Austria team covers all countries from the Baltic states in the North to Romania in the South. The agency Atos Lombardini, which is one of has accompanied the opening of more than 30 the new additions to the Aco Ausmono-brand stores. In terms of modern classics, tria portfolio, offers trend-oriented Riani has enjoyed strong growth with its modern women’s outerwear. and comfortable looks. According to Rudolf Kail, the Steffen Schraut brand is also developing positively, as are the designer collections by Just Cavalli, Versace Jeans, and Versace Collection. Aco Austria is also pleased to see that Trussardi Jeans’ strategy of focusing on a significantly younger and aggressively priced collection is showing first signs of success. First shop projects and store corners are Her jewellery is already in planning. more successful Labels: Adenauer & Co., Allegri, Atos Lombardini, Elisabetta Franchi, Etoile du Monde, than ever - Vanessa Fame on You, Gas, Geospirit, Giorgio Paris, Herzensangelegenheiten, Hotel Particulier, Baroni-Wieler runs Just Cavalli, Ki6 - Who are you?, Maliparmi, Napapijri, Pinko, Riani, Steffen Schraut, TrusAnother Souvenir with sardi Jeans, Versace Collection, Versace Jeans, Vignali, Vip Flap, Who*s Who Tommy Wieler. Aco Austria, Salzburg/Austria, info@acomode.at, www.acomode.at
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Ben And
Close to the Market
agen cies
The label Dstrezzed is a new addition to the portfolio of Munich-based fashion agency Ben And. “The collection has many favourable attributes”, says Ben Botas, the owner of the agency. “It is close to the market, has an excellent price/performance ratio with a calculation factor of 3.2, and stands for great, often elaborately refined qualities.” Frye Boots is positioned in the upscale shoe and fashion retail segment. Almost all models can be re-ordered permanently, which is an immensely favourable aspect of the label. “We’ve also received excellent feedback on Loveday Jeans”, Ben Botas adds. “We are already supplying highend customers such as Jades Düsseldorf, Abseits Stuttgart, Different Fashion Sylt, and Pool Munich.” The Cervolante collection, in which Ben Botas owns a direct stake, has teamed up with distributors to expand into Switzerland, Sweden, and Japan. The agency itself is also growing. The team has scaled up too; it now consists of four full-time sales representatives in the Düsseldorf showroom, and seven in the Munich showroom. In addition, the companies Brand Beast GmbH, which manages Loveday Jeans, and Brand Builder GmbH, which manages Cervolante, were spun off. They have relocated their warehouse and logistics department into an independent office located in Munich’s Schwabing district. Labels: Cervolante, Dstrezzed, Frye Boots, Franklin & Marshall, Gas, Goosecraft, Loveday Jeans, Mason’s, Sand Copenhagen Ben And, Munich and Düsseldorf/Germany, agency@ben-and.com, www.ben-and.com Feminine and trend conscious - the Supertrash collection at Aco Modeagentur Germany.
The Cervolante collection is being expanded – for example with new styles for women.
Aco Modeagentur Germany
Strong New Business
Germany-based Aco Modeagentur has always focused on distinctive fashion collections and long-term partnerships. In line with its philosophy, the fashion agency has added Peuterey, a particularly strong brand, to its portfolio for the North German market. “I see Peuterey as a modern classic, which is why I am so happy to add this brand to our agency’s client list”, says Michael Schulz, the managing director of Aco Modeagentur Germany. “I see enormous potential for selective distribution, especially in the fashion sector.” In addition, the agency secured a strategic partnership with Munich-based peer Select Trading, thereby adding brands such as Fracomina, Gas Jeans, and Supertrash to its portfolio. “We have called this co-operation ‘Young Development’. This is new territory for us and very promising”, Schulz explains. “The brands impressed us with their collection orientation and excellent value for money.” One of the regular brands within the portfolio is Pinko, which is part of the Premium trade show for the first time this year. Just Cavalli focuses on prints, colours, and innovative styles for dresses and leather items. “Beyond that, our contemporary luxury segment is very stable”, Schulz adds. “Brands like Versace Collection are experiencing a new boost; Iceberg impresses with its clear design direction.” Labels: AnneClaire, Day Birger et Mikkelsen, Dsquared Underwear, Fracomina, Frankie Morello, Front Row Society, Fusalp, Gas Jeans, Geospirit, Iceberg, Just Cavalli, J&C JackyCeline, Ki6 - Who are you?, Manila Grace, Moschino Underwear, Peuterey, Pinko, Roberto Cavalli, Supertrash, Versace Collection, Who*s Who Aco Modeagentur, Düsseldorf/Germany, info@acomode.de, www.acomode.de
Anke Burkhardt
“A Label That Cannot Be Ignored”
Back in its master’s hands Antonio Marras has reclaimed the design process of the “I’m Isola Marras” collection.
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The headline is Anke Burkhardt’s verdict regarding “I’m Isola Marras”, a young brand created by Italian fashion designer Antonio Marras. Until recently, the brand was produced under license by Stefanel Group’s Interfashion. However, Marras has decided to take the label back, and has given the collection a more contemporary feel in the process. It is therefore no surprise that Anke Burkhardt, who has already an excellent track record with fashion by Marras, added the fresh fashion line to her portfolio with immediate effect. She believes that the colourfulness, Italian lifestyle, brave pattern combinations, and casual cuts will appeal to many women, especially due to the exceptional fit of the items. Anke Burkhardt will present the collections at her temporary showrooms in Düsseldorf and Munich. Labels: 17 Stephanie Schneider, Antonio Marras, Giles, Lamberto Losani, Mantù, I’m Isola Marras, Walter Voulaz, Zilla Anke Burkhardt Mode Agentur, Pahlen/Germany, info@ankeburkhardt.de, www.ankeburkhardt.de
Photo by Irene Schaur
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Bowery NYC The Good Old Times
Nemen Experimentation
Civico 76 Modern Venice
This brand is inspired by New York City, but produced in Italy. The t-shirt collection by Bowery NYC captures the charm of the once infamous, yet now exceedingly vibrant Bowery district of Manhattan. It prints that charm on washed and over-dyed t-shirts with a distinct vintage look. The prints inspired by the charismatic shops on Bowery Street are particularly striking. They include, for example, bar letterings, local establishments, and the typical street life within the neighbourhood. Many prints are inspired by New York gangs, some of which actually really existed at some point. Other prints commemorate the boxing scene and the audience of those times, including sailors, prostitutes, gamblers, and immigrants. In order to meet the high quality standards of the collection, the brand, which is headquartered near Verona, produces exclusively in Italy. The purchase prices range from 26 Euros for t-shirts to 50 Euros for sweaters; the calculation factor stands at 2.6. So far, Bowery NYC can be bought via its own online shop. Late last year, Munich-based fashion agency Komet und Helden took over the distribution in Germany. This move marks the start of Bowery NYC’s fourth season in Germany. Emmepi Italia, Lugagnano di Sona/Italy, T 0039.045.6084074, info@bowery-nyc.com, www.boyery-nyc.com
For the last one and a half years, Leonardo Fasolo has been channelling his long-standing fabric development expertise into his Nemen label. Under this name, he offers exclusively piece-dyed and highly technical jackets made of innovative materials. The newest project is a limited collection incorporating LED lights. Nemen is characterised by typical Italian design, high quality standards, and the constant experimentation with fabrics and dyeing techniques, as well as the “100% Made in Italy” guarantee. The latter has both ethical and ecological reasons for Fasolo. Up until now, Fasolo was not willing to sell his products in his home country, which is why Nemen was only available in selected stores in England and Scandinavia until 2015. The purchase prices for the two annual collections range from 120 to 280 Euros. The calculation factor stands at 2.7. The range is showcased in the Milan-based studio, the Pitti Immagine Uomo in Florence, the Seek and the Premium in Berlin, and the White in Milan. Brand Progression, London/England, T 0044.203.4117342, mark@brandprogression.co.uk, www.nemen.it
Venice is not merely a backdrop for an ever-increasing number of tourists. Venice is also the home of proud merchants and cosmopolitan traders, whose horizon has always been a little broader than that of others. The new label Civico 76, which is a start-up that focuses on trousers, tops, and jackets for men, follows this tradition. Its hallmarks are jackets that only reveal their true qualities in details or on the inside. The subtle exterior is complemented by striking linings; many jacket models are reversible and offer their wearers two options. One option is suitable for everyday use, while the other is more innovative and courageous. Without a doubt, winter - for Civico 76 the autumn/winter 2015/16 season is the second - is always the acid test for a jacket collection. Civico 76 offers styles in an attractive purchase price range from 40 to 65 Euros (with a calculation factor of 2.8). The label will debut its collection in Germany at the Gallery trade show in Düsseldorf, represented by Showroom Krause’s Achim Repp. Artisani S.r.l., Padua/Italy, T 0039.049.099830, info@civico76.it, www.civico76.it
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OC Authentic Masterfleece Stylistically Confident Sportswear
Ottod’Ame In the Mix
Italian designer Olmes Carretti has created a new premium sportswear brand in collaboration with Ape & Partners, the producer and distributor of Parajumpers: OC Authentic Masterfleece. Munich-based Agentur Schwarte has been appointed as the distributor for the German market. The new brand focuses on high-end, comfortable, and stylish fleece and jersey tops, as well as trousers. Carretti already made a name for himself in the sportswear industry throughout the 1970s, 1980s, and 1990s. Back then, he designed sweatshirts, sailing jackets, and t-shirts for brands such as Spitfire Jeans, Best Company, Henri Lloyd, and By American. The idea for this new collaboration was developed within the context of not merely utilising fleece as a material for outdoor sportswear, but also realising the potential of this functional material for the production of both elegant and practical tops. The same concept applies to the brand’s trousers, which are made of the especially comfortable fabric “Il Super Jersey”. The chinos, 5-pocket pants, and pleated trousers are available in traditional and elegant silhouettes. Alongside various materials, OC Authentic Masterfleece also utilises innovative print, embroidery, and dyeing techniques. “The knitted fabrics were developed specifically for OC Authentic Masterfleece. I believe that the level of technical character of our yarns, patterns, and fabrics are perfectly matched to meet future market requirements. Currently, there are no comparable products or brands. We address people who seek comfort and style for their leisure time, travelling, and at work, without forfeiting their own personalities”, Olmes Carretti explains. The retail prices of OC Authentic Masterfleece products range from 150 to 299 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.8. The label had its official debut in January at the Pitti trade show in Florence and at the Premium trade fair in Berlin. Ape & Partners SPA, Segusino/Italy, T 0039.0423.8023, info@apepartners.com, www.apepartners.com
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The total look of Ottod’Ame can be described as chic, feminine, and contemporary; the collection offers an eclectic mix of styles and pays great attention to detail. The main materials are silk, wool, and cotton, combined with lace or leather. The entire collection is produced in Florence in the brand’s own production plants. The commercial pricing model, as well as a calculation factor that ranges from 2.8 to 3.0, are further convincing aspects of Ottod’Ame. The average purchase price for knitwear stands at 55 Euros, while trousers cost 49 Euros and jackets 65 Euros. Ottod’Ame was founded in Florence in 2011. Today, the brand has 1,200 points of sale in its home market, Russia, the US, the UK, and France. The points of sale include Tsum Moscow, Baby Beluga Antwerp, and Clan Pontaccio Milan. In addition, the brand operates flagship stores in Florence and Paris. The current collection by Ottod’Ame is distributed by the fashion agency Komet und Helden. It has already convinced 70 customers in Germany and Austria. Ottod’Ame, T 0039.055.8732054, patrizia@ottodame.it, www.ottodame.it
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Angie Miller Pure Boiled Wool for Everyday Use
7 Chic Avenue Silky
Bonds The Trick with the Shoe
What began in 2009 as a tribute to traditional clothing (“Tracht”), has now established itself as a worldwide lifestyle brand. Angelika Riedmiller’s brand Angie Miller has managed to make traditional boiled wool items fit for everyday use. In 2015, her Pure range even goes one step further. The women’s and men’s models of this new collection are defined by clear lines and an extra dose of airiness, without sacrificing the proven features and quality of boiled wool and boiled cashmere. These high-end fabrics justify purchase prices that range from 159 to 249 Euros for boiled wool items and from 239 to 425 Euros for boiled cashmere goods. The calculation factor stands at 2.7. As a special service, Angie Miller offers a so-called “pronto programme”, which guarantees delivery within two to three weeks all year round. The Pure collection will be showcased at the Supreme trade show in Düsseldorf and Munich, as well as at the Tracht & Country trade fair in Salzburg. Another Souvenir, Leinfelden/Germany, T 0049.711.99751642, tommy@anothersouvenir.de, www.anothersouvenir.de www.angie-miller.de
Feminine, pure, timeless and reliable, with fine details and cuts that flatter the body - this is how Jutta Schweiger and Marianne Tochtermann describe 7 Chic Avenue, their elegant collection of silk blouses and tops, which was showcased at the Premium trade show in Berlin for the first time. As of autumn/ winter 2015, 7 Chic Avenue wants to expand its distribution network, which currently consists of its own online shop, into the German retail industry. Both owners have many years of experience in the fashion trade and have clearly defined their respective fields of activity. Jutta Schweiger designs the clothing, while Marianne Tochtermann handles the accounts and manages the label’s showroom in Hamburg (“Hochallee 60”). The showroom will act as the foundation for the proposed distribution network for northern and central Germany, as well as the rest of Europe. Southern Germany and Austria are covered by Munich-based fashion agency Minder. The collection consists of 14 styles, including tops, blouses, and dresses in four qualities and three to six colours each. The purchase prices range from 50 to 130 Euros with a calculation factor of 2.8. 7 Chic Avenue, Hamburg/Germany, T 0049.172.4301218, sales@7chicavenue.com, www.7chicavenue.com
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In 2013 Stéphanie Kelter and Marc Steinmetz unveiled a new innovation to the shoe industry that took off right away: shoe soles with interchangeable “Topics” to suit every occasion. Simply press the button on the thong to convert your sandal into another model, only the sole remains the same. Their idea, The Reshoelution, landed in stores such as Apartment 72 in Stuttgart and Lieblings in Fulda in its first season thanks to the Düsseldorf-based Sabine Lamann agency. 17 basic models with various soles from Birkenstock to smooth leather, 50 interchangeable “Topics”, and trade retail prices between 50 and 85 Euros, as well as between 9 and 32 Euros for “Topics”, Bonds is equally at home in premium boutiques and exclusive stores. Bonds Footwear, 76199 Karlsruhe/Germany, T 0049.6343.951018, mail@my-bonds.com, www.my-bonds.com
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Caterina Lucchi From a Good Home
Inferno Ragazzi Life - Desire - Passion
Kavat Family Business
Fashion, art, sport, music - Inferno Ragazzi strives to be more than merely a young Hamburg-based fashion label. It defines itself as a lifestyle that can be acted out on an everyday basis in a variety of ways. Alongside the clothing range, exclusive collaborations and events are an integral part of the brand’s identity. Therefore Flemming Park, the co-founder and designer, does not perceive the colourful collections as plain clothes, but as expressive statements of the lust for life. It is no surprise that the fan base of the eye-catching snapback caps, shirts, sweaters, and shirts includes starlets such as Toni Garrn, Andre Borchers, and Jimmy Blue Ochsenknecht. The retail prices range from 39 Euros for t-shirts and caps to 99 Euros for sweaters. The calculation ratio is 2.7. The label presents two collections per year at the Show & Order trade fair in Berlin. Inferno Ragazzi handles its own distribution. The brand’s items can currently be purchased via the Inferno Ragazzi online shop and are also stocked by selected stores in Germany and Japan. Inferno Ragazzi, Hamburg/Germany, T 0049.17662719116, info@infernoragazzi.com, www.infernoragazzi.com
The name Caterina Lucchi is inextricably linked with the brands Campomaggi and Franco Gabrielli Gabs, as part of the successful trio of brands made by the Gruppo Emergenti Italiani fashion house. The Italian family specialises in the production of high quality leather goods and leather accessories, and has positioned it’s collections in luxury retailers through a wide-reaching international network of over 50 agencies and partners. Caterina Lucchi, the wife of Marco Campomaggi, introduced her own collection in Italy in the 1980s, and has expanded her presence over the past six seasons, particularly in German speaking markets - in Germany thanks to Andreas Bazata’s Fashion Account with showrooms in Munich, Nuremberg, Frankfurt, and Düsseldorf (from January 2015), in Austria at the Moderaum showroom in Vienna, and in Switzerland at Patrick Ebnöther's Wearhouse. Her designs combine Italian retro and vintage charm with functionality. Prices start from 230 to 450 Euros. Caterina Lucchi is already represented by clients such as Daniels in Cologne and Bailly Diehl in Frankfurt. This year the group is planning to open its first own flagship store in Milan with all three brands represented. In addition, Caterina Lucchi launched her own online store in November last year. Campomaggi & Caterina Lucchi SRL, Cesena/Italy, T 0039.0547.373077, info@emergentitaliani.it, www.caterinalucchi.it
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Kavat holds two traditions very dear. The Swedish family-owned company has been passing on its extensive shoemaking know-how from generation to generation since 1945 (currently the fourth generation is in charge). Furthermore, Kavat operates on values such as sustainable production, craftsmanship, and utmost perfection. Regarding production, the company is particularly focused on the traceability “from cow to shoe”. From the tanning of the leather to the completion of the boots, Kavat ensures that all its items are made by hand in Sweden and that all the leather is tanned naturally. More than 60 models within the collection have been awarded the EU Eco Label; this is an honour that the company is especially proud of. Based on its initial children’s shoe range, Kavat has developed into a supplier for the entire family. The brand operates in 18 countries and has been active in Germany since 2010. In Germany, Kavat focuses on smaller individual boutiques such as Meilenstiefel in Hamburg or Mazooka in Berlin, as well as Globetrotter stores. The latter is a result of the fact that the demand for Kavat’s outdoor segment is increasing. The retail prices of the current collection range from 30 to 230 Euros. The distribution is handled by the company headquarters in Sweden. Skofabriken Kavat, Kumla/Sweden, T 0046.19.7612209, julia.miller@kavat.com, www.kavat.com
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www.alberto-pants.com
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Matthew Harris Affordable Luxury
The Artistylist New Floor Format
Brooktorkai 8 So Far So Good
Newcomer Matthew Harris launches into the market with a prominent client list. From February 2015 onwards, the bag collection will be available at a number of renowned retailers such as Ludwig Beck, Breuninger, Impressionen, and Alterhaus - all this after no more than one order round. The main focus of the brand launch is on Germany, Austria, and Switzerland, where Matthew Harris has teamed up with Angelika Richter’s MH Services GmbH. Alongside creative director Peter Ary and the production company MJH International BV, Richter also owns a stake in the brand itself. Matthew Harris intends to expand into the Benelux countries soon. The collection consists of ten different models in three colour combinations. The brand is aimed at customers from the upscale segment, but attractive retail prices ranging from 99 to 249 Euros also cover the entry price level. The motto of Matthew Harris can be described as follows: affordable luxury for everyday use. Therefore, the design is understated and classically elegant; functional details inject additional excitement to the range. MJH International B.V., Ar Zwaag/ The Netherlands, info@matthewharris.com, www.matthewharris.com
“Ask me anything” is the topmost button on the website of Diletta Cateni’s fashion blog (http://dilettacateni.tumblr. com/). This is an invitation one accepts gladly, mainly because the photos depicting her own fashion collection make you want to learn more about her brand, The Artistylist. Since last autumn, the collection has been part of the portfolio managed by Munich-based fashion agency Komet und Helden, which gladly added this artistic, energetic, and colourful newcomer brand and is eager to help it into its third season in Germany. The collection consists of tops, t-shirts, shirts, dresses, and scarves made of silk or neoprene. All items are adorned with Diletta’s creative and unconventional prints. For the oncoming autumn/winter 2015/16 collection, the young designer from Pisa, whose parents were in the fashion business and managed a local boutique, drew inspiration from the 1950s. The purchase prices range from 59 Euros for neoprene shirts to 139 Euros for silk shirts and scarves. The calculation factor stands at 2.6. Elisa Gaito, Milano/Italy, T 0039.02.54090201, info@elisagaito.com, www.theartistylist.com
According to Marion Hoferer, the knitwear collection by Brooktorkai 8, whose launch collection was presented by Hoferer at the Premium trade show in Berlin, can be described as a fashionable wellness range with high-end knitted items in XXL look. The pieces can be matched with sneakers, classic pumps, and even robust biker boots. The creative force behind the women’s collection - consisting of pullovers, dresses, and coats - is Hamburg-based designer Anke Naumann, who opted for professional independence after three years of design work for the Boulezar brand. The brand launch was accompanied by Munich-based fashion agency Modeist, which has also started distributing Brooktorkai 8 in Germany and Austria, with a view to building a solid base for European expansion. The retail prices for pullovers range from 199 to 399 Euros, which means that the brand is mainly targeted at the upscale medium price segment. In the current order round, Marion Hoferer showcases the Brooktorkai 8 collection in her showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. The first delivery date is July 2015. Modeist GmbH, Munich and Düsseldorf/ Germany, T 0049.89.15985591, info@b-kleidung.com, www.modeist.com
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True Born Strong Support
Shoreditch Sporty
Mr. P by Larens Zürich His First and Last Shirt
The brand True Born is still a dark horse with loads of potential. As one of the few private labels managed by JCC Company, it has access to the existing infrastructure of the successful leather specialist. This does not only ensure product quality, but also on-time deliveries. The two annual collections consist of 15 to 20 items each, including leather jackets, parkas, and vests with fur trimming. The range can be adapted to special needs and seasonal demands. The retail prices for True Born items range from 449 to 1,249 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.8. For the launch in Germanspeaking countries, the brand appointed Another Souvenir as the general sales agency. Another Souvenir, Leinfelden/Germany, T 0049.711.99751642, tommy@anothersouvenir.de, www.jcc.de
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Shoreditch, the Australian label inspired by the eponymous London borough, has always been renowned for its modern and tailored menswear. To mark its entry into the German market in autumn/winter 2015/16, Shoreditch has decided to add a sporty-luxurious lifestyle line to its existing tailored range. The focus is on so-called “Relaxed Tailoring”, which is embodied by international football star Tim Cahill. The models, which are designed in New York by Alvin Manalo, feature high-end processing, simple cuts, and elegant colours. This justifies retail prices ranging from 57 to 98 Euros for shirts and 269 to 350 Euros for suits. It is possible to re-order selected basics and current fashion items. Shoreditch debuted its lifestyle collection at the Premium trade show in Berlin, where it held first talks with potential German buyers such as Peek & Cloppenburg, Anson’s, and Breuninger. Shoreditch, Brisbane/Australia, T 0061.3.95628139, hello@shoreditchlondon.co, www.shoreditchlondon.co
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Just look what can arise from friendships between men! When Holger Petermann, the owner of Munich-based PR agency Think Inc., and Bülent Öcal, the owner of the brand Larens Zurich, started philosophising about what defines a man, Holger Petermann only had one answer: a perfect shirt. This was the start of a journey through fabrics, cuts, threads, and stitches. They argued about length and width, collars, cuffs, and fits. In the course of the design process for the perfect shirt, the two fashion enthusiasts added boxer shorts to their range. Due to Holger Petermann’s ambition, everything has to be the best: an aspiration that has resulted in a price range that the label will only communicate on request. The quality is truly outstanding: Super 170’s cotton, many sartorial elements, and hand-made in Italy. Holger Petermann is excited to see how his vision will be received by the retail industry. Mr. P celebrated its debut at the Show & Order trade show in Berlin. Profashional Products SA, Zurich/Switzerland, T 0041.43.3213300, info@profashionals.com, www.larens.com
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L(!)W Brand A Question of Appreciation
Tatras The Poetry of Technology
“Quality before name” is the motto of Italian label L(!)W Brand. Founded in 2008, the label demands the fashion industry to change its views and to return to a time when clothing was a long-time companion. The result is a complete men’s collection consisting of diverse models that endure more than one season, exclusively hand-made in Italy. L(!)W Brand is defined by continuous quality improvement and a clean, more minimalist look. One focus of the collection is on outdoor jackets; the high-end material combinations of fabric and leather justify purchase prices that start at 200 Euros. Purchase prices ranging from 65 Euros for trousers to between 120 and 140 Euros for sports jackets position the label in the premium segment. The calculation factor stands at 2.9. L(!)W Brand offers its customers various NOS programmes. After successfully establishing itself in its home market, L(!)W Brand has decided to enter the German market as of autumn/winter 2015. To this end, the brand will be presented in Munich and Düsseldorf by German distribution agency D-Tails. L(!)W Brand, Nola/Italy, T 0039.81.8269332, info@lowbrand.it, www.lowbrand.it
The collections of Tatras combine the elegance of Japanese design with the quality of Italian fabrics and the competence of down production in Poland. The logo, which incorporates three crosses, symbolises the combination of these three countries, as well as the virtues of wisdom, competence, and taste. The brand’s name is based on the Tatra mountain range between the borders of Slovakia and Poland. In the year 2000, Tatras was founded in Japan by Masanaka Sakao as a high-end down jacket brand, and was subsequently introduced to the European market in 2009. Since then, Milan has been the base for the brand’s international expansion, design, production, and distribution. Mirco Bruno from Düsseldorf-based fashion agency Agentur Number 8 is responsible for the distribution in Switzerland, Austria, and Germany. The international distribution is handled via a showroom in Milan. Depending on model and material, the retail prices for the jackets range from 420 to 1,100 Euros, with a calculation factor of 2.7. The international key accounts include Boon de Shop in Seoul, Isetan and Straka Est in Tokyo, Galeries Lafayette in Beijing, Luisa Via Roma in Florence, and Biffi in Milan. After the first flagship store, which was opened in Milan’s “Via Bigli” in 2009, Tatras opened its second store in Tokyo’s “Minamiaoyama” fashion district in October 2014. The collection is divided into a pre-collection and a main collection, each with approximately 50 items for women and men. In addition to exclusive, contemporary, and glamorous slim-fit designs with commercial aspects, Tatras mainly focuses on the technical performance of the high-end materials it utilises. The synthetic materials are developed in Japan, while the natural fabrics are supplied by renowned Italian weaving mills such as Limonata and Loro Piana. Only the best Polish goose down and feathers are used for the filling of the jackets. Alongside classic down parkas and jackets, the brand also offers a selection of trench coats and overcoats, which are inspired by the silhouettes of traditional Japanese kimonos. Tatras Showroom, Milan/Italy, T 0039.349.0888176, sales@tatras.it, www.tatras.it
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Todd Snyder + Champion Interplay
(+) People From Human to Human
Figlia It’s a Girl!
Sport loves numbers and statistics. 91 is the inversion of 19, which is a direct link to the year 1919, when the Champion brand was founded. Todd Snyder chose the number 91 as the inspiration for his Todd Snyder + Champion collection. He created 91 styles and colour variants for t-shirts and sweatshirts, the key pieces of the line. The close ties between the designer and Champion were first established in spring/ summer 2014, when Todd Snyder presented the first capsule collection for the brand. Due to its great success, the co-operation now enters its third season and one can certainly describe the collaboration as a long-term project. Todd Snyder is a huge fan of the brand and embodies its values. Furthermore, his City Gym multibrand store in New York is the ideal home for the collection, mainly because it showcases a fine selection of items from the sports heritage segment. With purchase prices ranging from 40 to 50 Euros for t-shirts, and from 100 to 135 Euros for sweatshirts, the collection is aimed at upscale retailers and exclusive menswear boutiques. The calculation factor stands at 2.6. Todd Snyder, New York/US, T 001.888.9919130, info@toddsnyder.com, www.toddsnyder.com
The motto of Italian denim collection (+) People is in its name. The brand stands for absolute individualism and highlights the personality of the wearer. Consequently, the prices are at an affordable level. Since January 2015, Munich-based agency D-Tails represents the collection in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. The specialities of (+) People are indigo wool products for men and women, Shetland wool jackets, and jeans made of high-end Japanese denim, as well as outdoor jackets and coats, denim shirts, and sports jackets in vintage army style. All knitwear items are exclusively Italian. The purchase prices range from 60 to 85 Euros. For the first time, all products will be showcased during the agency’s showroom days in Düsseldorf and Munich. Pier Spa, Treviso/Italy, T 0039.0422.820358, info@pierspa.com, www.pierspa.com
The launch of the new brand within the Uli Schneider portfolio was as unusual as it was intended to be. As part of a “trunk show” between early January and late March, the autumn/winter collection of the young casual wear line Figlia was presented on-location to selected trade partners in Germany, Austria, and Switzerland. Figlia, which is the Italian word for daughter, is aimed at a younger price-sensitive target group; it offers a straightforward and interlocking line consisting of soft jersey items and extraordinary knitwear. The purchase prices range from 29 Euros for jersey shirts to 198 Euros for woollen outdoor jackets. This particular daughter is actually European, mainly because the design team has chosen “Born in Europe” as its motto. The goal is to inject more reliability and product confidence into this market segment. All fabrics are procured in Italy and produced in Europe. Beyond the aforementioned “trunk show”, the collection can also be viewed during order days at the Uli Schneider showrooms in Hamburg, Düsseldorf, and Paris, as well as at the Premium trade show in Munich. Uli Schneider Design GmbH, Hamburg/ Germany, T 0049.40.41009637, figlia@uli-schneider.net, www.uli-schneider.net
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Mastermind and creator - Richard Engelhorn, the managing partner of Engelhorn KGaA, has been part of the company for 50 years. He cannot imagine stepping down.
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"Where We Are, We Want to be Number One." With a respectable double-digit million investment, the family-owned company Engelhorn, headquartered in Mannheim, realised its vision of a forward-thinking retail concept. During a twoyear renovation process, Engelhorn created two premium storeys that take the customers shopping experience to another level both literally and figuratively, especially in terms of the company’s multi-channel strategy. This development once again proves that Engelhorn is among the significant movers and shakers of the German fashion retail industry. style in progress met up for a chat with Richard Engelhorn, the managing partner of Engelhorn who has been serving the company for almost 50 years. Interview: Stephan Huber, Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Peter Schaffrath
Various experts are predicting a rather sad future for stationary multi-brand retailers for quite some time. They claim that the online industry will take over, and that outlet centres, discount chains, vertically integrated retailers, and mono-label stores will pick up all the business that the e-retailers can’t snatch. Engelhorn has decided to invest the huge sum of 20 million Euros in its stationary business in this market environment. In the face of such dire predictions, is this investment sustainable?
Yes it is. We have invested in the future of Engelhorn as a whole. It is just as important to ensure that the stationary business moves with the times. I acknowledge that, in the light of the future of specialised retailers in inner cities, there are specific aspects that justify scepticism. However, the decline of specialised retailers is a problem in smaller cities, not in larger ones. Furthermore, this problem is not created by the retail industry; the cities need to consider the future of their retail environments. Local politicians need to decide how their respective retail landscapes can remain attractive in the long term. For a city the size of Mannheim, a company like Engelhorn plays a role that goes beyond offering mere shopping opportunities. Have local politicians understood that cities without a healthy retail structure are doomed to die?
No, I don’t believe they have. This is exactly where we need to start making a difference. However, the current government representatives don’t want to take responsibility. They simply hope that the next elected government will address the issue. This definitely isn’t the way to solve problems and optimise structures. Such issues need a long-term approach. What exactly could politicians do in the current climate?
The most important thing is also the simplest one. City centres need to be easily accessible, even for motorised private transport. The trend is currently shifting towards public transport, which I believe is a mistake that reduces customer frequency in
city centres. Our bridges across the Rhine are currently being renovated, which presents yet another traffic catastrophe. This also affects all our employees who commute to work from the Palatine region. At the same time, Mannheim is investing heavily in culture. Examples are the theatre and the Congress Centre, which will also stage concerts. The city is in the process of building a new art hall. However, these investments will only be accepted if the city is easily accessible for the inhabitants in the region. Culture cannot subsist on the citizens of Mannheim alone, neither can the excellent restaurants and retail industry.
In which areas beyond urban planning should politicians be more active?
One of the biggest problems for urban retailers is certainly the huge increase in rental costs, both for residential and commercial properties. Very few banks would even consider financing the launch of a fashion store, especially if there is a lack of financial background. Unfortunately, this plays straight into the hands of the Primarks of this world. 14 or 15 year old girls stuff huge shopping bags full of discount clothing that they only wear once before throwing the items away, mainly because the quality of the goods is so incredibly poor. Such companies cause a certain loss of culture. It is also a moral loss, especially if you look at how such clothing is produced. Naturally, we also don’t always know where one of our brand suppliers actually produces its t-shirts. Again, this is an issue that both the fashion industry as a whole and the retailers need to address. This is an area where we can show that there is an alternative, namely to focus on quality. The customers have certainly forgotten how to develop a sense for product value. I believe that this is, to a large extent, the fault of our fashion industry.
Unfortunately, I can only agree. The loss of product value is related to oversupply and the fact that customers are offered price-reduced items earlier season after season, mainly because the retailers need to get rid of their stock to make room for new goods. To be completely honest, I style in progress 215
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don’t really know how this can be prevented. In our capacity as a retailer, we can, however, try to preserve fashion standards by offering expert advice.
In a city such as Mannheim, is it difficult to find staff and new talent at the level that a company like Engelhorn requires?
So far, we have always found enough trainees. However, I have noticed time and time again that a profession in fashion retailing has a bad reputation in general. This is also the fault of our retail industry, because we have failed to upgrade the jobs and draw positives from the current situation. Our industry has definitely missed a chance in that respect. Therefore, there is a general shortage of leading employees who are willing to think outside the box. This is why it is now even more vital to attach importance to in-house training. We educate our trainees for six weeks before they actually start working. We start with simple things such as good manners, appropriate diction, and arithmetic. When I entered the company after my training and education, I had to start from scratch too. Today, the job of a fashion salesperson doesn’t get enough respect and the expectations of the young people are completely different. There have always been discussions about shop opening times. However, the stationary retail industry now has an enormous and ever-growing competitor…
…who is allowed to sell items 24 hours a day, seven days a week. Doesn’t this situation call for a new approach to the discussions about opening hours?
That is absolutely right. Stores simply need to be allowed to stay open longer in the evening
Companies like Primark cause a certain loss of culture. Richard Engelhorn
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A new level of shopping experience - the new premium floors set a new benchmark regarding spaciousness, luxury, and product presentation.
and have the right to open on Sundays too.
Even though some forces within our society will do their best to oppose such a development?
The aforementioned things will definitely happen once the pressure of unemployment rises. I would happily bet any amount on the fact that this will happen within the next five years. It may initially start in the months of November and December, and maybe also March and April. But it will be extended at a later point in time. If you could pick and choose, how would you structure your own opening hours?
We would open on Sundays maybe not for ten hours, but for five hours when people enjoy strolling through the city. We intend to launch a Sunday brunch in one of our in-store restaurants. I’m curious to see whether our customers appreciate this. Let’s return to what has been done at this location. What was the motivation for this forward-thinking strategy? At the end of the day, an investment like this shows that the company believes in the future of the stationary retail industry despite all the adversities.
We are a very traditional family-owned company that will celebrate its 125th anniversary in 2015. We have always only
invested in properties here in Mannheim, or in the surrounding area. The aim is to ensure that these properties remain attractive in the long term and to ensure their future development, because the stationary retail industry is important to us. We have a total sales area of 41,000 square metres, spread out over nine premises in Mannheim. We try to connect these areas with our online shop, which already contributes 20% to our total revenue and we want to expand this side of the business as much as we possibly can. However, our name recognition factor makes this a bit tricky. We are well known in the Mannheim area, but not particularly well known beyond that region.
You yourself have five decades of business experience and have helped to shape the company as a whole. In your opinion, what was the largest challenge for the fashion retail industry?
Not on a stationary level, no.
Yes it did, of course. We were part of the game too. We tried to boost our revenues via price reductions. The surfeit of goods and pressure to offload stock at a reduced price are the main reasons why consumers have got so used to bargain hunting.
Did Engelhorn ever consider expanding beyond Mannheim’s city limits?
Why not? Competitors like Breuninger made such a move.
It would bother me to play second fiddle in a different city. I have been part of this company for almost 50 years and I have always said that we want to be the number one in every city in which we are represented or might want to expand into. This may have been possible with a branch concept, but we would have had to start early, possibly even straight after 1945. Today, the market is already divided.
I’d say the price decline. It started in the 1970s, but has become even more merciless over time. It can hardly be undone either; at least I wouldn’t know how to go about it. Maybe it would be easier for the food market. Food directly concerns health and that particular product group is therefore closer to the heart of the consumers. Those customers who want to live a healthy life are willing to pay more for good value. In respect of clothing, I think it is almost impossible.
Didn’t the specialised retail industry also contribute to this price decline?
The news used to show crowds of people in front of department stores during clearance sale periods; the customers charged into the stores as soon as the doors were opened. Such situations were evening news headlines,
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mainly because it was something special in those days.
Now we have a clearance sale all year round. The autumn was warm for a fairly long time, but we held back with price reductions nonetheless. But perhaps that was the wrong decision again. The stock volume creates pressure.
Isn’t the fact that the goods were delivered as soon as August the root of the problem?
Perhaps that is the case. Our conclusion is to reduce the pre-order volume drastically. Being a buyer no longer entails ordering at trade shows twice a year; it actually entails ordering on a weekly basis. Whether that is a comfortable position to be in, is a completely different question altogether. A store has to be interesting for its customers at all times. The customers must be curious to come and see the new additions. This means that one needs to change the look of the premises regularly. It also means one should probably also surprise the customers by moving departments around from time to time. I visit Harrods whenever I’m in London. It’s always interesting to see what’s new and how it is staged. I can learn a lot for my own business from these visits. Is it also important to present goods in a different context?
It’s all about style worlds and looks, with which we want to inspire our customers. For example, we have sitting areas with a homely atmosphere on our two premium floors. On the tables we also present books, candles,
cosmetics, and shaving kits.
This is, however, quite labour intensive. One needs people who are good at doing that.
This is a challenge for Engelhorn; we need to make sure that we prepare our people for their respective tasks. For example, we are currently pondering whether we should rotate our employees within the departments. We started with leading employees. Our buyers need to deal with the online segment, which is an area that was completely unknown to them at first. However, it’s important in order to understand the interrelation better. Could it be an option to send your own employees to a different company for three months? That is quite common in other industries. To this effect, a number of retailers of equal stature could create an international network of some sort.
Ideally, yes. But you’d have to worry about your best people being hired by others on the spot. Or one could be confident enough to assume that the employees return because their own company is a good place to work at. I just think that many young people in the fashion advisor profession don’t see a perspective to break free from time to time. If a few companies of your size were to team up, such an exchange could be quite easily organised.
The employees could definitely learn a lot from each other, that’s for sure.
Being a buyer no longer entails ordering at trade shows twice a year; it actually entails ordering on a weekly basis. Richard Engelhorn
What can stationary multi-brand retailers still do better than its competitors, be it the e-retailers or the vertically integrated suppliers?
If you are looking for a reason why Engelhorn managed to survive at this level for 125 years and has even managed to raise the bar, you should look no further than the human factor. We have to find the right people who have an interest in the industry, show commitment, and are enthusiastic. They have to feel at home and accepted. They also need to earn enough.
That is also a factor, but that’s not the main problem. Buyers who are good can earn as much as they want. What about the sales personnel?
That is more complicated.
In my opinion, that is a decisive factor.
Yes, it is. But it is even more decisive to have the right clothing items in the store.
But the right clothing item can also be presented online at Zalando. The sales advisors are there to ensure that there is communication in a good specialised retail store.
I agree wholeheartedly.
From which industries can fashion retailers learn for the future?
I’d say it can learn from every industry. If I visit a travel agency, I can see how incredibly important good advice is. I like and regularly make long journeys, to Asia for example. I always organise those journeys via a travel agent. The advice you receive is truly priceless. This brings us back to the aforementioned human factor, entailing an appreciation of individuals. This feels rather unfashionable in our digital age. We are currently working with chefs from other countries in one of our restaurants. One is Italian, the other from Singapore. They bring new ideas to the table and enrich our restaurant. It’s a lot of fun for the chefs, us, and the guests. The fun seems to have drained from our industry in recent years.
Yes, that is true. Yes. Fun is exactly what we would need.
What parts of your business do you really enjoy? What makes your heart skip a beat?
I enjoy when the business is running successfully! I love touring around our branches and seeing what’s going on, how the customers move around in the stores. I always try to improve things that catch my eye. The multi-channel strategy the co-existence of online and offline - will certainly be a major factor in the future. Engelhorn placed a great emphasis on this aspect as part of its recent large investment. How can one succeed in combining the best of both worlds?
Click & Collect: Pick up items ordered online, enjoy a meal, and have trousers prepared for adjustment – it’s quite amazing how much one can do regardless of opening hours.
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We are still in the learning phase in that respect. Technology is changing constantly. Online presentation and the whole handling process is always in flux. We have to continue investing in these processes, in logistics, and
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It is difficult to make an online business profitable. Richard Engelhorn
in technology. This involves huge costs. It is difficult to make an online business profitable. I have the firm belief that the online business needs the stationary retailers, despite all the opinions peddled by futurologists. Online needs stationary trade, mainly because the online business needs emotions.
This view is substantiated by the fact that some online retailers are now also opening stationary stores. If my son Fabian, who is responsible for our e-commerce unit, were here now, he would vehemently disagree. We often discuss the fact that I print out everything that interests me online. If something is important, I like to have it on paper. That’s why our in-house employees always receive news in printed form. I think they wouldn’t read the news as thoroughly if it would only appear on a screen.
You created a generous area for “Click & Collect” in the new
space on the sixth floor of your fashion house.
In this way, we want to improve the link between our stationary retail trade and our online shop. Those who like ordering online regardless of opening hours, can have the desired items sent here, try them on, and even exchange goods. We want to help the customers with what can be so annoying when shopping online. This includes, for example, the return of the additionally ordered sizes that don’t fit. However, the link with the online world is also aimed at facilitating our buying processes, across all departments. If a customer should want a different model or colour, our sales personnel can whip out their tablets to check whether that particular product is available online. The item in question can then be delivered to the branch or directly to the customer’s home. Across all departments, our employees can utilise
this network to check what other branches have in stock. Could the next step be that a company like Engelhorn offers its customers the service of organising the purchase of a product or brand that is not part of its own portfolio?
I think that is absolutely conceivable. However, we first want to focus on allowing our customers to pick up online purchases after enjoying a dinner in our restaurant, as late as 10pm or 11pm. Is that possible, given the existing opening hours?
Of course it is. We aren’t selling anything at that time; the customer is merely picking up a parcel.
This is interesting. And it simultaneously highlights the absurdity of the existing legislation regarding opening hours.
We even go one step further. If a customer picks up a parcel, tries on the trousers, and then finds out that they are too long, we
will also pin up the trousers on the spot. Are you allowed to do that at that time?
Yes, we are allowed to do that. Our tailor can then process the trousers on the next day. We are still getting started in this respect; things still need to fall into place. However, it is a service that we, as a company, want to stand for. Service is vital to ensure future success for the stationary retail industry. That’s why I am so sure that the opening hours will have to be liberalised at some point. Thank you for the interview!
Engelhorn: 9 premises with a total sales area of 41,000 square metres Managing directors: Richard Engelhorn, Andreas Hilgenstock, Fabian Engel horn, Simon Engelhorn, Gerhard Fähr
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Content Curation - The New On/Off Relationship of the Retail Trade The endless possibilities it presents are the strength of the Internet, but also its Achilles heel. For the retail industry, an unlimited supply runs the risk of creating unlimited disorientation. “Curated Content” provides the solution. Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Interviewees. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
“The rise of the curator is owed to the new complexity of the global art industry”, says the aptly named magazine “art”. He or she selects, assembles, and underlines the selection with a narrative. The definition above can also be used to describe recent developments in the online retailing industry. It may not be subject to the spatial and logistical limitations of the stationary retailers, but the increasing supply can swiftly turn into a confusing, anonymous mass that overstrains the customers and catalyses the desire for orientation. A remedy can be found - of all places - in the measures utilised by the stationary retail industry: discover, select, and present in a manner that creates an individual atmosphere, as well as an attachment to the product itself. This philosophy is exactly what the online retailers are now using for their marketing and customer service strategies. They call it “Curated Content”, a term that describes assisted shopping tailored to the needs of increasingly demanding customers, at best in the form of a personal experience with a narrative. At “Freunde von Freunden” (FvF - Friends of Friends), absolutely everything starts with a story. The project, initiated by Torsten Bergler, Frederik Frede, and Tim Seifert, was initially an online magazine focused on publishing interviews and interior stories involving fellow creative individuals. Now an in-house produc-
tion agency develops overall concepts with commercial ideas, which are then published by FvF. One can, for example, purchase items from the apartments of the interviewees via “ThingLinks” to the respective online stores. The targeted, individualised selection of brands and partners is aimed at an international, creative community that ideally corresponds with the culture of their own brand. In addition to the online channels such as the iPad magazine, travel blogs, and city guides, a real FvF Apartment by Vitra now offers a venue for talks, dinners, and workshops as an offline extension to the online message. FvF launched its own online shop in December 2014, which, inspired by the magazine’s content, intends to stock a curated selection of products. The majority of the product range is the result of collaborations with interviewees, which means that it remains true to the initial narrative. “We want to create a flowing experience that enables people to read an article, discover a product, and then purchase that item in a manner that still feels natural”, Brian Fichtner, the e-commerce director of FvF, states. Filling a Gap
Modomoto has also committed itself to a multi-channel business concept. “We have discovered a real ‘unfulfilled need’ among men who are tired of shopping”, says Corinna Powalla, the managing director of Modomoto,
who founded the first assisted shopping portal for men in 2011. The male customers create a profile including preferences online, can ask to be advised by a stylist via the phone, and then receive a parcel containing two hand-picked outfits and a hand-written greeting card. The parcel recipient can choose which outfit he wants to keep, but full returns are rare and the majority of customers return to use the service again. Since December 2013, the assisted shopping portal also has an offline branch. Men can book an individual fashion consultation in the so-called “Fitting Room”. Andreas Fischer, the co-managing director of Modomoto, says: “The ‘Fitting Room’ is the logical continuation of our service and introduces the retail concept of tomorrow. We combine online and stationary retailing in a very special way, thereby offering our customers an even more personal and individual consulting service which they cannot find anywhere else.” Content Creates Attachment
Traditional e-commerce focuses solely on the product, while “Curated Content” starts a dialogue that creates a bond with the customers. Exactly this bond is so relevant for Kisura, a curated shopping portal for women founded by Tanja Bogumil and Linh Nguyen in 2013. “If you know the customer and know what she consumes, then she’ll consume more, and do so more style in progress 215
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often”, Nguyen says about the technology-driven fashion company with a team of developers and stylists. “Fashion is such an emotionally charged product, which is why the human factor will always be important and can never be eliminated. However, one has the opportunity to get the utmost out of the existing data to ensure that processes are optimised and connect the customers with the product side”, Bogumil adds. This is primarily achieved through intensive customer communication via customer data, semi-annual surveys, the in-house magazine, phone calls, social media interactions, and Skype-based video chats with stylists. The customer makes a request and then decides what she wants, as well as when and how she wants to receive it. “It’s supposed to be the perfect
combination of online, offline, and tele-shopping”, Nguyen explains. “We want to offer the service level of stationary retailers, the comfort and speed of the Internet, and the feeling of going shopping with your best friend.” Small Teaches Big
Even the big players of the industry have begun to understand that the emotional character of consumers is an important factor on the digital level. While Zalando initially put its faith in conversion rates (as in orders per page visit), the shopping portal started focusing on curatorial processes at the end of last year. “Our goal is to ensure that our customers get a feeling for the products. We achieve this, for example, through recommendations that are tailored to the needs of individual customers”,
says Daniel Schneider, the head of the Onsite Customer Journey unit. The new recommendations are no longer compiled by algorithms, but are handpicked by styling teams. “The composition of the product range, also by means of granular curating, is aimed at strengthening Zalando’s trend awareness, thus gaining more relevance for fashion enthusiasts”, explains Claudia Reth, the VP fashion director. Zalando wants to stand for “more fashion”, which is not only achieved by an improved selection and clustering of various categories and “Fashion Corners” by buyers, but also by handpicked styling tips, as well as the utilisation of data-based recommendation engines and mobile tags. Given the ever-changing customer needs and e-commerce in general, even a large player
like Zalando needs to push for an evolution of the ultimate shopping experience. And this evolution is set to continue next year. In December 2014, news was leaked that Zalando intends to directly compete with Modomoto and Kisura with a new concept that will be explained in detail in spring 2015. This shows how swiftly the e-commerce development phases progress, as curating enables companies to react appropriately to the preferences of increasingly demanding customers, who transfer their behaviour patterns from the stationary retail industry into the online world. Now the market leader has decided to also respond to changed customer demands with a network of stylists, who – as in the case of the smaller niche suppliers – are supposed to give the customers the feeling
Freunde von Freunden’s Tim Seifert, Frederik Frede, and Torsten Bergler - what started off as an online magazine is now a viable business model.
Freunde von Freun den x Vitra - the cooperatively designed apartment in Berlin acts as both a tangible experience and a sales floor.
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Modomoto’s Andreas Fischer and Carina Powalla coax men who are tired of shopping with personal service. The Modomoto fitting room in Berlin complements the online store’s product range.
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Tanja Bogumil and Linh Nguyen, the founders of Kisura, know that customers buy more often when they feel like they received good advice.
With the shopping platforms About You, Edited, and Sister Surprise, Benjamin Otto and Tarek Müller have made curated shopping the principle of their start-up incubator Project Collins.
Fighting the the fleamarket image - it’s Nikki Tiedke’s job to give eBay a fashionable appearance.
that they have found a contact person who understands their style preferences. “When we implement something, then one can assume that it is relevant and should set a new standard”, says Boris Radke, the head of corporate communications at Zalando, who intended to announce the focus on individual advice at the actual launch of the concept. The change in the digital access to fashion is also a topic at Otto Group, which is still the second largest mail order company in the DACH region (Germany, Austria, Switzerland) behind e-commerce giant Amazon. A fashion start-up project named Collins, founded by Benjamin Otto and Tarek Müller, utilises curated platforms such as About You, Edited, and Sister Surprise to address pre-defined target groups. The interplay between technology and humans is
the main focus of the project. “The challenge is to feed the algorithms with the necessary intelligence and then combine it with the style sense of fashion experts. Specifically that means that Josepha, a stylist and fashion editor at About You, works hand in hand with the mathematicians of our business intelligence unit. The potential to underpin curatorial decisions with knowledge within the retail industry is huge, but so is the need to develop more creative algorithms. We research the best way for algorithms to capture the concepts of fashion and style, and how they can then be combined with human know-how and apps. What is crucial in our eyes, is that apps finally allow customers to contribute to the curatorial process”, says Müller. eBay also reacted to the shift in digital needs by introducing
eBay Collections. The in-house study titled “Future of Trading”, which was published in cooperation with the international market research group Innofact AG in 2014, shows that the curated shopping trend will become even more important in the future. 80% of the interviewed consumers stated that they can imagine buying products from a curated selection. “eBay Collections turns the searching, finding, and buying into an inspiring journey of discovery and a real social shopping experience. The customers of today want to be addressed on an emotional level. Given the huge choice on the Internet, they are - more than ever - crying out for guidance regarding inspiration, decision-making, and orientation. The eBay Collections are compiled manually by curators and consumers with a great attention
to detail. They allow themselves to be inspired by their personal interests, ideas, and hobbies”, explains Nikki Tiedtke-Maurer, the lead curator and head of curation strategy at eBay. Due to the changes in the structure of the Internet and constantly increasing customer demands, the online retailing industry has also undergone an evolutionary process that has led to more orientation through individuality, atmosphere, and a dialogue between the consumer and the product itself. The result is a focus on more innovative, curatorial practices. E-commerce is developing a human touch and that’s a good thing!
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#everyoneisadesigner The likes of Facebook and Instagram have brought fashion brands within the reach of consumers. Direct communication via social media has led to a new dynamic that also influences the design process. How much impact does consumer feedback actually have on fashion collections? And where should we draw the line? Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
They were a mega-hype. The Moschino iPhone cases in the shape of a McDonald’s chips bag and handbags in the traditional red/yellow of the fast food chain were made available online one day after the runway show, and sold out in no time. The wildfire was accelerated by excited fashion editors and countless postings on style blogs. It was a super coup for Jeremy Scott, the creative director of Moschino, who went on to create a new hype, in the form of a squeaky-merry Barbie collection, last autumn. Playground Social Media
Many brands have become more professional in the field of social media. Gap, Roberto Cavalli, and Ralph Lauren are seen as companies that master the art of net-based dialogues perfectly. Users turn into brand ambassadors by sharing, rating, and recommending products. Brands such as Burberry and Louis Vuitton evaluate how many tweets the pieces from their last show generate. This gives them valuable input regarding goods management, which, in turn, leads to more planning security. In times when the pressure on the fashion market has increased so massively, this is very important. A pressure of this kind, due to a huge hype on Twitter and the likes, can even cause brands such as Chanel to put a bag model, which was initially only meant as a show piece, into swift production. New Rules
Today, the Internet ensures that consumers are well informed. Street styles from all over the globe are available to everyone, everywhere. This also means that product knowledge, which was formerly communicated by fashion designers via the press, has shifted towards the consumer. What’s more, the trends have
diversified considerably. “In the past, there would be a few, very clear trends per season”, explains Carina Grendel, the managing director at Fashion Royal PR. “Today, a number of ‘real people’ dictate fashion opinions, which they cultivate for themselves through their lifestyle, jobs, and travels, and then spread far and wide via social media channels. This creates many trends that are successful alongside each other.” In Germany, Carina Grendel’s company, Fashion Royal for PR and Social Media Communication, is responsible, inter alia, for Supertrash, a brand which has the perfect testimonial in Olcay Gulsen, the owner and designer of the label. “The 33 year old power woman is very well known in her home country Holland, especially since she started dating a Dutch footballer and appeared as a jury member in TV shows”, Carina Grendel says. “Her regular postings on Facebook or Instagram not only cause people to talk about Supertrash, but she also receives major input for the next collection.” Pepe Jeans London is equally proficient in maintaining customer contact. “A large part of our website is interactive, mainly to facilitate a lively exchange. Our communication via social media is also gaining in importance”, says a head of the denim design department at Pepe Jeans London. Unfortunately we cannot name the source for this quote, because the company strives to act as a whole and wants to avoid exposing individual employees. “Twice a year, we stage the so-called Custom Studio in our London-based stores, during which street artists customise our jeans at the request of the customers by, for instance, embossing their respective names on the items with lasers. Those artists post our event on their own social media sites, which, in turn, brings incredible traffic to our website.
If Cara Delevingne generates 250,000 clicks by wearing a Pepe Jeans London outfit, this mass of feedback is incorporated into future designs.” However, the consumers want what they see immediately, or not at all. Does this mean that marketing dates and availability have to be closer to each other than ever? Many brands have decided to respond with instant programmes. Michael Kors is already a step ahead due to his recently launched shopping feature #InstaKors, which directly links the Michael Kors online shop with Instagram. If users like a Michael Kors product posted on Instagram, they receive an e-mail with a direct link to where they can purchase the item in question. Pepe Jeans London is also eager to meet customer needs as directly as possible: “We are working very hard on making sure that goods are available in our web shop within four hours, for instance when a certain item is requested in a different material or size. Today, one of the biggest challenges is to provide the right product at exactly the right time.” Crowdsourcing
A fashion brand has numerous options to harness consumer feedback from social media for its own creative process. “Whether consciously or unconsciously, the work of a designer is massively influenced by the Internet, which is what we call subtle input”, Andreas Schanzenbach explains. In his capacity as CIO of the Cromatics agency, he has worked with numerous fashion brands such as Adidas, Boxfresh, Converse, Eastpak, Levi’s, and Ralph Lauren. Many brands utilise monitoring software to gather data via the Internet, which is then evaluated and used for the optimisation of the design process. “The retail chain New Yorker commisstyle in progress 215
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Michael Boveleth, managing director of BlondeNo8: “Today, it is vital to strive for being able to supply the best product in your field. To guarantee this, feedback from retailers and the press, as well as input from the blogosphere, is incorporated in the design.”
André Berger, managing director of Handstich: “We would like to decelerate our communication. A lot of things posted on the Internet are, at the end of the day, very superficial and short-lived.”
sioned the programming of an app that gathers direct feedback regarding new designs at the PoS, which enables the company to react in time on the production side”, Schanzenbach adds. Other businesses have decided to promote consumers to co-designers. “The first company to do this was LaFraise from France. The brand invited customers to participate in a t-shirt design competition via its website and social media networks”, Schanzenbach explains. “The design that received the most likes was then produced.” Adidas’ sneaker ZX Flux also allows consumers to participate actively via an app. A customer can project an image on the shoe in form of an all-over print and will receive a self-designed pair of sneakers no more than two weeks later. Platforms such as Jovoto.com, which have specialised in the tender of design services via social media, also utilise the creativity of consumers. But can one really speak of a dialogue between brands and consumers via social media? 215 style in progress
Head of denim design at Pepe Jeans London: “If Cara Delevingne generates 250,000 clicks by wearing a Pepe Jeans London outfit, this mass of feedback is incorporated into future designs.”
Carina Grendel, managing director of Fashion Royal PR: “The blogosphere has a huge and very loyal community. The reach is enormous, but so is the divergence loss.”
Andreas Schanzenbach, CIO Cromatics: “Bloggers and street style photographers are calling the shots and defining the latest trends. In this respect, social media can be both a curse and a blessing.”
“Yes, as long as the brand desires such a dialogue and is capable of actively managing it”, says Schanzenbach. “There are still a surprisingly high number of brands that shut themselves out of the social media playground completely. I believe that is a missed opportunity, especially as users place the brand in the middle of that playground with their postings. If you decide to exclude yourself, you really can’t have a say.” Tread Your Own Path
The social media concepts of young brands such as Blonde No8 are often still in their infancy. “The basic idea is not a designer’s vision, but a product that is tailored to the needs of the market and consumers”, says Michael Boveleth while describing his recipe for success. In this respect, he is aided by feedback from retailers, the list of last season’s bestsellers, and the traffic in the online stores of customers such as Breuninger, MyClassico, and Brooks. Monitoring the blogosphere is also part of his job:
“Trends currently depend heavily on the opinion of bloggers, and I think this will become even more noticeable in the future”, Boveleth adds. For Blonde No8, he cooperates with the Fashionista blog. He is also often approached by other bloggers. “It is, however, important that the brand environment fits into our concept, not unlike a fashion store. If a blog follows up a post about a vintage Chanel bag with some product from Hennes & Mauritz, the blog definitely doesn’t suit us.” André Berger has also enjoyed quick success with his brand Handstich. His customer list includes names like Engelhorn, Lodenfrey, Braun, Beck, Eckerle, and Eder Kitzbühel. “As a young brand, we focus primarily on the input from trade publications and retailers”, André Berger explains. “Even though information and opinions travel faster today, we believe that consumers still develop a sense for values and appreciation for higher quality. A lot of things posted on the Internet are, at the
end of the day, very superficial and short-lived.” In principle, Berger’s Handstich does not want to shut out the social media topic completely. “First a brand needs to define itself clearly. It needs to know where it works, who it addresses, and via which channels it wants to communicate. Is it a homogenous concept or do things not fit together? As a small label, you simply cannot afford to make any mistakes.” Social media might provide a huge reach, but is sometimes not optimally targeted. “Your brand DNA needs to have a solid base, otherwise you’re merely a flag swaying with the wind”, Berger says. Ultimately, you need to tread your own path regarding product design. The design team of Pepe Jeans London is equally aware of its roots. “The brand was born in the streets of London. That is the heritage that we rely on time and time again. This is what points us into the right design direction.”
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Full Blast on 21 Channels Asos. The online fashion giant does not only derive its name from a computer term (“As Seen On Screen”). The company feels just as comfortable in the digital world as its young target group. However, there is one exception. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: Asos
“Let man be noble, generous, and good.” This autograph book classic could easily pass as a mnemonic for Asos’ multi-channel marketing strategy. After all, Goethe follows up the aforementioned statement with the following: “For that alone distinguishes him from all living beings we know.” No other company manages to capture its audience by being so close to the heartbeat of our digital world. It comes as no surprise that Asos itself considers its appearance at Google Helpouts as its most successful initiative of 2014.
Instagram, Twitter, and Facebook. Asos is currently active on no less than 21 social media channels. “We evaluate what is important to our target group, how it utilises the respective channels, and how it produces content”, Beswick adds. “Everything is tailored to the desires and needs of the target group. This helps us to build a loyal community.” The strategy is based on a rather simple calculation. As an online retailer, Asos has no passing trade. It has to attract attention in the online world.
Fashion Coaching via Video Chat
Multi-Channel Knows No Crisis
“In line with the typical Asos approach, it was about being there first”, says Sedge Beswick, the senior social media manager of the British company. Asos is the first fashion retailer to offer a new service that allows Internet users video consultations for all sorts of questions. This practical assistance is aimed at twenty-somethings who want to look and feel great. Asos already had a pool of personal stylists to draw from anyway. The online retailer has zeroed in on consumers between 20 and 30 years of age - and behaves accordingly. The website’s “Fashion Finder” does not only compile styles, it also allows users to showcase their own creations. Naturally, the site also offers fashion advice, for example via Skype, as well as competitions on
A large following on all channels, coupled with everyday experience in how to reach said followers, is not only the right approach for Asos in terms of sales. The combination is also a highly successful crisis communication tool. In June 2014, a fire in the company’s warehouse destroyed most of the stock; the online shop had to be shut down for almost two days. “The live updates on our Twitter feed were very well received”, Beswick says. “Our customers were extremely sympathetic. They wanted to help us to bounce back as quickly as possible.” Asos laid the foundations for its success with its claim to be approachable at all times. The customers know that they can expect a response to a tweet. “This makes our customers’ lives even easier”, Beswick explains. Asos also simplifies the purchasing process as a whole. A Facebook shopping app enables customers to discuss products, and to buy items without having to leave Facebook. “Click & Collect” sends the parcels to any kind of shop near the customer, which means that one no longer has to wait for the postman at home.
She likes seeing Asos in first place - Sedge Beswick is the senior social media manager at Asos.
Furthermore, it is more authentic when customers can see how like-minded people style clothing that they have already worn themselves. Asos simply feels at home in the digital world. Nevertheless, the marketing department does not ignore the good old printing press. The Asos magazine is sent out to more than 475,000 addresses. While the magazine mainly rewards Asos’ best customers, it is sometimes also used to reach new customers. The additional benefit is positive publicity. After all, celebrities such as Jennifer Lawrence, Jessica Chastain, and Chloë Moretz wear Asos clothing on the cover. “The magazine represents the brand in material form; it is something that the customers can touch and treasure”, Beswick says. This is an aspect that the digital world generally lacks. Luckily, a multi-channel strategy does not need to limit itself to that.
Authenticity via User Generated Content
Service with a pun - whenever there’s a style emergency, Asos can be reached on Skype via A_SOS.
Another priority of Asos is content generated by its users. “Why should we not emphasise user generated content”, Beswick asks. After all, mid-twenties are used to posting things online.
fashionfinder.asos.com
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The Real Life Sure, you need to prepare your website for m-commerce and entertain your customers on social media networks. However, one term describes multi-channel best: excellence. You need excellence, no matter where, when, and how you address your customers. style in progress presents solutions and approaches that manage to combine the best of both worlds. Text: Martina MĂźllner, DĂśrte Welti. Photos: Interviewees. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
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Alfredo Schilirò, Flowcube and Sailor of Success.
When a Measure Turns Into a Chance When Alfredo Schilirò inaugurated the first Weltraum Concept Store in April 2014, the collection of brands in a temporarily vacant retail space was merely a marketing measure for the client, namely Allreal Generalunternehmung AG. They hoped that the part-time occupancy of the non-leased sales area in the superstructure of the Richti Areal would generate customer frequency in a newly created district of Zurich, and thus attract the attention of potential long-term tenants. The idea came from Alfredo Schilirò, the owner of the PR agency Flowcube. The core of this mission was to ensure that the new area would be the talk of the town. Schilirò achieved this by creating the Weltraum Concept Store, where he displayed brands that were already part of the portfolio and also persuaded new labels to allow their goods to be sold on consignment. The project was heavily supported by classic PR and social media measures. The decisive factor is the brand mix, the agency director explains. Our product range includes lifestyle products such as books and furniture, art from galleries, fashion and accessories, customised bikes from Milan, and English bicycles. The idea was a massive success and the district has attracted customers from all over Zurich. This is obviously good news for the existing tenants and also attracts potential new ones. The second stage of the project came about almost automatically. Together with three business partners, Alfredo Schilirò founded the company Sailors of Success GmbH and developed the idea further. In the meantime, builders and property groups have expressed their interest in implementing his brand platform in other vacant retail spaces on an interim basis. This, however, does not mean that Schilirò is moving into the retail industry: We sell a concept that did not exist previously, via a store format that truly stands out in the market. We offer a lifestyle, not merely products. The agency supplies the Weltraum Concept Store brand (the name cannot be changed), together with sales personnel and a mix of products provided by approximately 40 manufacturers. Furthermore, the agency organises a string of in-store events to expand the audience beyond mere shopping customers. www.weltraum-conceptstore.com 215 style in progress
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Nils Fischer, co-founder of same day delivery specialist Liefery.
Making Life Easier Larger online retailers are leading the way. The fact that they deliver ordered items on the same day is appreciated by customers. Statistics prove that such a service results in more products in the online shopping cart. Nils Fischer, the co-founder of same day delivery specialist Liefery, knows that stationary retailers could also benefit from offering their customers this service. 1,500 vehicles and 1,000 couriers are on the road for the company on a daily basis; Liefery offers an inner-city delivery - at a requested time - for 6.99 Euros. “For retailers, same day delivery is an ideal tool to help differentiate themselves from others, highlight their service philosophy, and generate more revenue as a consequence.” Swift delivery to the customer’s door has been tested on a small and large scale. In Stuttgart’s ECE-managed Milaneo shopping centre, Liefery operates a drop-off counter, where customers can deposit their purchased items and declare when exactly they want them delivered. Retailers such as Unger in Hamburg and Eckerle Herrenmode in Frankfurt offer the service via a simple app. “Same day delivery is the height of service in a bouquet of customer loyalty programmes. The ambition is to make customers’ lives a little easier by reducing stress and annoyance levels with a doorstep delivery”, Nils Fischer explains. Ever since formats such as eBay Now, Google Shopping Express, and Uber Rush introduced the topic to a broader public, the manager has noticed an increase in demand. “The food retail sector in particular is working hard on swift delivery solutions, but one doesn’t need to be as large as Rewe or Metro to tackle the issue. On the contrary, smaller owner-managed companies usually decide and execute much quicker. Same day delivery is definitely an interesting perspective for smaller retailers, mainly because it enables them to serve customers who want to satisfy their needs quickly, without having to make the annoying trip into town. Instead of ordering the desired item online, they can purchase it from the local retailer of choice that they want to support.” www.liefery.com style in progress 215
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Dfrost’s Christoph Stelzer and Nadine Frommer.
Creating Intensity at the Point Of Sale When retailers desire a more dynamic PoS, they contact Dfrost. The Stuttgart-based company unites a number of different skills under one roof: shop window design and production, shop fitting, visual merchandising, digital campaigns, and PoS event management. The three founders - Nadine Frommer, Christoph Stelzer, and Fabian Stelzer - perceive their 45-strong team as “brand companions”. “We think retail” is a promise that the agency for retail identity means literally. “The challenge that both multi-label and mono-label stores have to face is that of service. Today, customers have a choice. Why should they visit a store that offers bad service? They want to be treated as equals and enjoy the same benefits in the store as they do online”, Christoph Stelzer explains. “The ongoing discussion whether e-commerce is stealing revenues from stationary retailers highlights what the industry needs to do. It is important to create individual experiences, show attention to detail, and offer a service level that is difficult to match online”, Nadine Frommer adds. Thus, it comes as no surprise that the assistance of Dfrost doesn’t stop after the selection of the right shop fitting or visual merchandising concept. Christoph Stelzer: “Only a few retailers manage to find sales people who are fans of the store’s brands and actually love what they are selling. Store chains in particular often lack the human factor. They may have great shop windows and excellent in-store marketing concepts, but they don’t have employees who communicate the spirit. Those who fail to stand out in the monotony of mono-label stores are easily replaceable.” Nadine Frommer: “The overall presentation needs to be more unique in a variety of fields: service of a higher quality, distinctive and inspiring worlds within the sales area, curated visual merchandising, and selective collections that are only available at the PoS, or merely in specific branches.” Is a unique architecture equally important? Christoph Stelzer: “It is not about architectural landmarks in the sense of objects stylising the PoS as art, but it is vital to show a distinct profile. Static shopping environments are counterproductive. We recommend flexible shop fitting that is focused on the product and the brand experience in general. At the end of the day, it is not about interesting store architecture, but about interesting retail concepts. Those concepts need to include everything, right down to the staff.” www.dfrost.com 215 style in progress
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Rolf Nungesser, Real Time Society.
As Long as It’s Busy… “We need to do something here. Something that will attract a lot of people…” Self-made event manager Rolf Nungesser loves such requests. They mean that the co-owner of the specialised retail agency Real Time Society (the other co-owner being Mirjam Schobert) can tackle the project in question head on. “We have definitely noticed an increase of such requests over the last two years”, Nungesser, who is actually a trained chef, explains. “The main focus is always on selling products.” This means that the clients want in-store events that delight the customers, but also highlight the shop’s or department store’s products as the central statement. Abstract concepts to entertain the masses are a thing of the past; today it is vital to stage events that are targeted at the customer base. A classic measure is a high-standard fashion show. After the show, the sales figures should tell the client whether the items shown on the catwalk are likely to be a commercial success. This is the main reason why outsourcing a show to an external venue is out of the question. However, clients are also open to guerrilla measures. “In those cases, fines are often factored into the project costs. This is necessary if we, for instance, send models out on the street without obtaining the correct permits.” A very popular institution is the so-called “Long Night of Fashion”, when the point of sale – and potentially other parties – remains open until late at night. However, customers need an invitation to participate and shop. These events are normally accompanied by show acts, music, and the ever-popular “Chüppli”, which is champagne with an appetiser. Another proven measure is a fashion show in which customers can partake as models. The project package even includes castings and corresponding communication measures. “In this case, the focus is not only on the products, but also on the customers”, Real Time Society explains. “It really is very popular.” At the time of the interview, the agency is busy organising Christmas events and is eager to implement a new trend. “The customers want ‘crazy shit’ in their shop windows”, Nungesser says, and confesses that he has been down that road already when he had female bodybuilders train in the shop window of one particular client. How could that not be the talk of the town? www.realtimesociety.com style in progress 215
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An Open Love Triangle Multi-channel customers are characterised by incredibly complex behavioural patterns. They demand immediate availability, a best price guarantee, and an individual shopping experience. Obviously they also always want the best in general. How can brands ensure that their stationary retail partners can benefit from e-commerce in the future? Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Manufacturers. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
Oliver Samwer, the co-owner of Rocket Internet and Zalando, is a man of strong words. His pithy remarks proved to be an especially successful way of receiving media coverage in the build up to the IPOs of his two companies. However, one of his statements during a convention had a particularly massive impact. He claimed that the stationary retail industry has hardly any chance of survival, and branded the multi-channel strategies of traditional retailers as a last gasp effort before their demise. Today, Mr Samwer would probably like to see Zalando’s return rate drop as swiftly as its share price, which has not climbed above the emission value since its first day of trading on the stock exchange. Perhaps the Samwer brothers will soon have another successful concept from the US to copy. Just in time for Christmas, the online retailing giant Amazon has started its first foray into the stationary segment. It hopes to meet its customers close up for the first time by accepting returns in the heart of Manhattan. However, the retail industry
might be a bit faster than the Samwer brothers this time. In Germany, eBay will soon implement the “Click & Collect” concept, which is a system that involves stationary retailers in the online business and has already proven to be successful in the US. Items marked on eBay.de with a “Click & Collect” symbol can be collected by the consumer in a nearby store. As soon as the desired product has arrived, the buyer receives a notification via text message or e-mail. The concept has already persuaded retailers such as Möbel Boss, Gravis, Porta, Atelco, and Motoo. The likes of More & More, Autoteile Unger, Conrad, Cyberport, and Pro Amrum intend to follow suit. “This service enables us to support retailers even more comprehensively, to ensure that they can be successful in today’s omni-channel trading environment”, says Stephan Zoll, the head of eBay Germany. More Revenue with MultiChannel
At the beginning of 2012, eBay teamed up with renowned
industry experts and the public to start a project named “Future of Retail”, which is aimed at identifying long-term trends in buying and selling patterns. According to this study, it has been apparent for quite some time that the retail industry is fast approaching a major turning point. Mobile technologies are blurring the borders between online and offline commerce, and the rules of retailing are changing fundamentally. One expert who participated in the project is Thomas Bendig, the managing director of the Fraunhofer Association for Information and Communication Technology. He says: “Online, mobile, and real shopping are becoming inseparable. The boundaries are blurring, thereby creating one ‘omni-channel’. Hybrids that suit the lifestyle of customers are establishing themselves on the market. It is now quite natural to buy items in a shop and have them delivered home, or to post a shopping list for the supermarket online and then pick up the prepared basket on the way home.” style in progress 215
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Klaus Hellmich, the head of multi-channel retailing at Galeria Kaufhof, is readying the department store giant for the future.
Maarten Rijnders, the retail director of G-Star, allows stationary retailers to participate in sales generated by G-Star’s online shop.
International consulting specialist Deloitte evaluated the effect of omni-channel retailing in selected European markets on behalf of eBay. The study concludes that omni-channel retailing produces a huge amount of real revenue growth and only marginally cannibalises the sales generated by the stationary business. Consumers now use various channels to purchase items, more than ever before. Retailers have to adapt to this changed purchasing behaviour to ensure that they can gain access to attractive market segments. Galeria Kaufhof recognised this growth opportunity a long time ago and has already begun the systematic interlinkage of store and online business. Klaus Hellmich, the head of multi-channel retailing at Galeria Kaufhof, explains: “Towards the end of the summer, we started adding a mobile component to 215 style in progress
the sales talks in our branches by utilising tablets. This means that the respective branch expands its product range with items that are either sold out, or are not part of that particular branch’s customary inventory. The items can either be delivered to an address supplied by the customer, or delivered to the branch in question free of charge. […] If we can succeed in combining the best of both worlds, it creates a strength that cannot be matched by pure Internet-based retailers. Our customers can experience the Galeria Kaufhof brand on all channels, whether from the comfort of their homes, mobile via their smart phones, or during a shopping spree in the city itself. Such multi-channel offers increase the chance of retaining customers, which ultimately means we can secure a larger portion of the spending power of every single consumer. […]
In the calendar year 2013, the online revenue of Galeria Kauf hof stood at approximately 50 million Euros, which is no less than 100% higher than in the previous year. The declared aim is to ensure that Galeria Kaufhof generates 10% of its group revenue online within three years.” Since 2014, Galeria Kaufhof has been handling the logistical side of all online orders in-house. Furthermore, the company is looking to promote its own software development as one of its core competences to establish itself as a true multi-channel pioneer. By mid-2015, Galeria Kaufhof will implement an internally developed new platform for the online shop Galeria.de. The latter went online in 2011. Competitive Factor Future
Retail giants are not the only ones who have understood how vital effective cross-channel pro-
cesses have become; the fashion industry has also cottoned on to the idea. Jana Hildenbrand, the director of sales support at Marc O’Polo, explains: “We believe that the cross-linking of the online and offline business, as well as the own distribution channels, and networking with franchise and retail partners will be the decisive competitive factor in the future. As of spring 2015, Marc O’Polo will implement new cross-channel processes on all levels. A homogeneous distribution and communication is important to us, as is the opportunity to continue to react in a situational and individual manner. This results in many advantages. In terms of product availability, the range will increase significantly across all product categories. All channels are poised to benefit from our strategy. The new possibilities mean that all channels will be
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Jana Hildenbrand, the director of sales support at Marc O’Polo, relies on equality of stationary and online business to ensure that all channels profit.
Thomas Bendig, the managing director of the Fraunhofer Association for Information and Communication Technology, is convinced that online and offline shopping will become increasingly interlinked in the future.
more equal and can profit more from each other. The system is based on a central inventory to which everyone has access. In addition, we are working on a concept that, in retail jargon, is known as “shelf extension”. In the long term, we also aim to integrate our shop-in-shop partners more.” Maarten Rijnders, the retail director of G-Star, also relies on omni-channel concepts that offer consumers a seamless transition between online and offline shopping experiences. To this end, the company introduced the “G-Star Membership” loyalty card, which one can order both online and in all G-Star stores. “Our registered customers enjoy a number of benefits. Among other things, we offer them free shipping of all orders made via the G-Star online shop, the option to pick up and return orders in the nearest store, invitations to special in-store
events, special offers in stationary stores and on G-Star.com, and invitations to exclusive previews of new collections and denims. The consumers can experience our brand 24 hours a day, seven days of the week. Products can be examined in detail in the stores and, if the right size is no longer available on location, the customer can immediately check the availability in the online store and order from there”, Rijnders explains. G-Star’s holistic concept does not only aim at increasing customer loyalty, but also takes the brand’s stationary franchise partners into account. It ensures that the online shop does not compete with G-Star’s other business, which could endanger its acceptance levels. “If a customer has ordered a ‘G-Star Membership’ card via a colleague in a stationary store, we, for instance, make sure that all online sales of that registered
customer are credited to the commission list of that particular store. Furthermore, the stores profit from the cross-selling and up-selling opportunities created by the ‘G-Star Membership’ programme, generate more relevant customer frequency, and have better informed customers.” Thomas Bendig from the Fraunhofer Association is willing to give us a little glimpse of the future: “New collections will be increasingly announced in advance and tested; they can be adapted on the basis of the feedback from especially loyal customers or the entire brand community. Crowd sourcing for new designs and the evaluation of the best designs by the community will become standard features of the product development and marketing processes. The individual optical design of products according to the wishes and designs of the customers will establish itself as
an additional service for many lifestyle product categories.”
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The Implementers Who thinks Internet? And who only does multi-channel? style in progress went on a little expedition for the portraits of three entrepreneurs who crossed the boundaries between online and offline a long time ago. Text: Petrina Engelke, Martina Müllner. Photos: Interviewees. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
Without a doubt, the digital age is only just beginning. Great importance is being attached to the so-called “digital shift” we are currently experiencing. Numerous experts, authors, and futurists have confirmed that the process leads to a radical change of our economy, especially in the retail industry. It sure is. Your feelings confirm that too, right? As always in revolutionary times - luckily the digital revolution is a very peaceful one - the early chaotic decades are the most exciting. There is, however, one small flaw. It is difficult to see the path through the myriad of new options. Nevertheless, there are individuals and companies brave enough to show initiative. They prove that acting is so much better than waiting until change has happened. The representatives of the digital avant-garde don’t have much in common. Their ranks consist of perfectionist nerds such as Steve Jobs, as well as freckled world domination contenders such as Mark Zuckerberg. They also
include Internet entrepreneurs such as Natalie Massenet, who started her adventure, which is now valued at 1.5 billion Euros, just as the first dot.com bubble burst. Another example is Nike, a sports equipment specialist which has understood that a running app is just as important as a running shoe. Come to think of it, such an app may be even more important than running itself. Without a doubt, those who manage to open up and positively utilise new communication channels are the ones who have their fingers on the pulse of time. So why does it go horribly wrong so often? Well, mainly because the trial-and-error phase is far from over. There is still a lot to learn. The most important aspect is certainly a digital even modern - way of thinking. Such a mindset is actually more self-evident than one would initially assume, which is proven by the individuals interviewed by style in progress.
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058 WHAT'S THE STORY Multichannel
Lucy Yeomans became the world’s most powerful editor-in-chief overnight. Porter, the magazine “powered by net-aporter.com”, is available in all 170 countries that its parent company, the net-a-porter Group, ships to. The group with 2,500 employees generates an estimated turnover of 550 million Euros. The print magazine even manages to raise the high standards that chairwoman Natalie Massenet, who was once a fashion editor herself, applies to the websites net-a-porter, Mr Porter, and Outnet. It is certainly not a coincidence that all units interlock so unobtrusively. Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: Porter, net-a-porter.com
Lucy Yeomans, Porter
A Magazine that Combines Authority with Instant Gratification. Isn’t launching a magazine “powered by” net-a-porter. com, which is the most exclusive online fashion shop, a return to where everything started? Natalie Massenet once told us in an interview that she started net-a-porter because of her dream to create a shopable magazine. Is Porter the fulfilment of that dream?
I think it’s both. The Edit, the weekly digital magazine on net-a-porter.com, and Porter now deliver what Natalie originally dreamed of. Her idea was born out of the frustration felt when she saw things she loved in magazines, but then couldn’t find them easily. The Edit makes the entire net-a-porter range shopable. Porter expands this concept. The magazine was born out of a desire to create a beautifully curated and crafted modern magazine that combines the authority of traditional titles with the instant gratification that technology affords. That idea has been extended so that fashion and non-fashion items (such as books, spa holidays, beauty products, etc.) can be shopped and serviced by both the net-a-porter Group and other e-commerce websites, thus offering the ultimate magazine shopping experience.
The most powerful entity of the fashion world - Lucy Yeomans, the editor-in-chief of Porter, and Natalie Massenet, the chairwoman of the net-a-porter Group.
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From the very beginning, curated editorial content has been a major USP of net-a-porter.com. What distinguishes the print magazine from the digital magazines already published by the website?
Porter, like the magazines it sits alongside on the newsstands (such as Vogue, Harper’s Bazaar, Elle, etc.), delivers a full edit of each fashion season, rather than focusing purely on the neta-porter.com fashion range. The curation has real editorial breadth. And the team has full editorial freedom, just like every other fashion magazine. And of course fashion is just one element of Porter; there are also features, beauty, art, and travel sections. Porter’s ultimate mission is to deliver a magazine that covers the needs of stylish, intelligent, and modern women. This philosophy lies at the heart of all editorial decisions we make. Launching the magazine in all 170 countries that net-aporter.com serves, makes it the most powerful magazine in the world. Is that correct?
Being powerful isn’t just about reach, it is about developing authority and influence with readers, which Porter, as a new voice, is well on its way to achieving. But yes, the global remit does make it a powerful proposition. The world’s leading photographers, top models, award-winning authors and editors - Porter aims high and does not compromise on quality. Please explain the editorial concept of the magazine.
The concept is to deliver world-class editorial content to the stylish, intelligent, and modern women of the world, so of course we want
Inez & Vindooh photographed the debut cover with Gisele Bündchen.
to offer them a magazine that is compiled and produced by some of the most exciting and authoritative people in the industry. And because of our global remit, the people and stories we feature in the magazine have to have a high profile and need to be interesting enough to have true international resonance.
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Multichannel
His aim: creating a future for his clients. His knack: knowing how to apply the latest technologies to his ideas. At the age of 21, Ajaz Ahmed dropped out of university to found AKQA with the goal of “putting multi-mediocrity out of its misery”. That was in 1994. 20 years later, his company has won more awards than any other agency dealing with digital advertising. It created multi-channel heavyweights like Nike Training Club, the dual screen football game Heineken Star Player, or Gap’s GPS-based voucher campaign. On top of all this work, Ahmed co-wrote the digital strategy bible “Velocity” with Nike’s Stefan Olander. Ahmed is convinced that the digital landscape is still evolving. Here’s his take on how fashion companies can benefit from this development. Interview: Petrina Engelke. Photo: AKQA
Ajaz Ahmed, AKQA
Unless it Contributes, Entertains, Informs, or Inspires, Marketing is Pollution. Ajaz Ahmed, how do you explain to an old-fashioned company that classic advertising simply doesn’t suffice anymore?
People spend more time than ever immersed in digital or multiple platforms, and that’s only going to increase. We also believe that - unless it contributes, entertains, informs, or inspires - marketing is pollution. Therefore, any interruption needs to be hyper-relevant and interesting, otherwise you risk alienating people from your brand. The digital landscape is evolving, as there are always exciting new methods to connect brands with audiences. Advertising needs to adapt to these to facilitate meaningful connections through cost-effective, measurable, and valuable solutions. What is crucial in order to develop a successful social media story?
Ajaz Ahmed and his digital agency AKQA created iconic campaigns such as the Nike Training Club. The app has been downloaded more than 176 million times.
Everything a brand or person does, tells a story. Shift from being message-pushers to storytellers. Know the characteristics that make your brand interesting and unify them with a compelling story. If people like your story, they will share it. Social media enables brands to engage directly with people and develop relationships. Use the inherent properties of social media to do something that can’t be done in another medium, in order to create the most powerful connections. Sounds great! Can you give an example?
For example, Nike’s The Chance utilised Facebook to search for the best unsigned footballers around the world, and give them the opportunity to make their dreams of being professional footballers come true. 75,000 football players competed for places at the Nike Academy, with the video content generating millions of views. Three players discovered through The Chance have represented their home nation. This is a great example of a brand turning conversations into relationships, using social media to contribute to communities and make meaningful change. Talking about Nike: What sparked the idea of making an app for Nike that has become a personal trainer for so many people?
Necessity is the mother of invention. Nike+ Training Club was born from the need for a best-in-class personal trainer that did not exist yet: accessible, giving them friendly encouragement and motivation. It is beautiful and easy to use.
ples of entrepreneurs in the US that were successful on their second, third or maybe more attempts. The U.S. also celebrates entrepreneurship and innovation. There’s a new generation in Europe that is growing up globally minded, and that’s exciting for the world.
One of the laws you present in “Velocity” is “It’s easier done than said”. How can a fashion company that includes many meetings in their marketing decision process incorporate this law?
Remove the complexity and bureaucracy. Ask yourselves: Why do we need all these meetings? If you were a fashion start-up, would you still have all these meetings, or would you forge ahead and stop asking too many questions? At AKQA, we have zero committees. We create an entrepreneurial environment allowing decision making to be as autonomous as it can be, which keeps us moving forward.
Contemplating American brands’ multichannel marketing ideas, I’ve heard Europeans say: Wow, rocket science! How would you define the differences between European and American strategies and achievements?
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As a multi-channel marketing director at French Connection, Jennifer Roebuck has overseen campaigns such as “Make a Scene”. Users were invited to create their own videos with footage provided by the British fashion brand. The campaign resulted in approximately 8,000 videos and more than a million views. In September 2014, Roebuck left the company to start her own consulting company. Now she is willing to share a bit of her best advice with style in progress. Interview: Petrina Engelke. Photo: Jennifer Roebuck
Jennifer Roebuck
If You Don’t Have Anything to Say, Then Don’t Bother. What are the main issues that cause fashion brands to seek help with e-commerce?
Typically, it’s growth. How can we acquire customers at a cost that is sensible for our budget? How can we make sure that what we have works as well as it could? There is a lot of optimisation. E-commerce is a very mature retail practise now. Eight years ago, the main question was: How do we build a website? Now there is a lot more complexity. For instance, 50 percent of sales for most retailers are going through mobile. Social media also is a big one: Can you sell from it, why bother with it? So what do you say? Is investing in social media activities worth it?
I think it’s worth it. It’s free, at least when a channel first comes out. But you still have to get the basics right. If you don’t have anything to say or anything great to put out there, then don’t bother. I think that’s what a lot of brands are learning. Initially, they started posting what I would consider pretty average content: “Here’s a dress, please buy it.” And, you know, people aren’t stupid. When they come across something really boring in their feeds, they will remove it from their list. How does a brand use social media in the right way? Jennifer Roebuck has immersed herself into the digital world - and proved it with her previous work for French Connection. According to her, e-commerce is now a very mature retail practice.
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The same principles apply that you would consider in traditional advertising. You are not going to put a
Jennifer Roebuck’s campaign for French Connection resulted in no less than 8,000 videos created by users.
horrible spot on TV, so why would you spend your money on the production and the media? Just because social media is partially free, doesn’t mean you can put something average on it. You need to keep in mind the two reasons people use these channels: to keep up with friends, and to be inspired. You have to put something great out there in order to make money, just like you would anywhere else. Many platforms, like Facebook or Twitter, already charge for advertising or placements. And it is worth paying for if you do it right. Analytics show that it does work - as a support channel. In a recent interview, you said “brands are publishers”. What does that mean?
For two or three years now, some fashion brands have been investing in their own editorial, they have entertainment platforms, and they are publishers. Burberry is a great example, with their acoustic music series and editorial and photo shoots just like a magazine. And then look at Red Bull: They have their own sporting events, and they
sell space, just like Vogue sells a magazine page. French Connection had a little area that showed off our new collection in the Red Bull music studios in London. There were six other brands that paid to be there. Red Bull are subsidising their own events by getting those sponsors. That’s expensive. What would be your advice for a small budget, let’s say: a fashion store that wants to do more than dressing up the windows?
You should always start with PR and social media. Because even if your budget allows you to buy two print ads, there is no point; you won’t get any cut-through with that little amount of media. So I think you need to have a concept or an idea that will get people talking, and then have some form of event that draws the key press. If you have a local celebrity agency, spend your money on that, because that always works. Celebrities at your event make publishers want to join in, because that gives them content. It also gives you content for social media, and that helps spread the investment further.
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Multichannel
Casanova Emerges from Underground Cross-channel, multi-channel, omni-channel - you think that sounds like a challenge? Nothing could be easier: simply celebrate the art of seduction. An opinion piece by Martina Müllner
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hen was the last time you found yourself in a channel? The first and last time I found myself in such a position is years ago. Luckily my journey merely led me through a historic water conduit in the Mönchsberg, one of Salzburg’s local mountains. The water was clean, so there was no nasty smell. Nevertheless, I was quite relieved once I found myself back in daylight. Why am I asking this question? And why am I telling you this anecdote? The answer is that I am fed up with hearing that the German-speaking retail industry is spending most of its time pondering the various channels at its disposal. Honestly, customers do not emerge from channels, they don’t buy products in channels, and they most certainly don’t use channels to communicate with you. No matter whether you’re a follower of the mono-channel, multi-channel, or even omni-channel philosophy, the overused term “channel” doesn’t make sense at all. I know as well as you that the term “channel” - in this context - is not used to describe the gullies of this world. However, adapting the definition of the term doesn’t offset the error in reasoning. A customer is hungry. A customer has needs. A customer has desires. A customer experiences frustration. It’s all about emotions, not the vehicle employed to satisfy them. Yes, I said “vehicle”. Your store is a vehicle - your online shop or app even more so. All case studies have proved that vehicles operated by individuals may be error-prone, but still deliver the best performance. The human factor may not be the fuel, but it’s definitely the oil that ensures the vehicle runs smoothly. If you want to reach - no, seduce - people then don’t waste your time pondering via which channel this could be achieved. Spend your time thinking about the actual art of seduction. How can you woo customers? How can you win them over? How does persuasion work? How can you rekindle passion and keep it burning? And don’t forget to decide whether you are willing to offer breakfast on the morning after. It certainly isn’t possible to seduce customers while focusing on channel concepts. Those who strive to connect new channels to existing ones, or even aim to merge channels, will, at best, distinguish themselves as civil engineering experts. Seduction and channels simply don’t mix. Step one: Replace the channel image. It’s about time too. Even the bullshit bingo of marketing has already adopted new terminologies. Customers now experience a “journey”, and they have their personal “life cycle”. They no longer have these experiences in a multi-channel or omni-channel environment, but within a “digital ecosystem”. Let’s be honest, establishing and perfecting ecosystems does show more ambition than simply excavating a few channels. Nevertheless, I am brave enough to claim that this new development is just another case of tunnel vision. So what IS better than channels? Why not become a Casanova? Commit yourself to perfecting your seduction skills and study carefully how others manage to pull customers. You would like an example? Online shops for
shoes have been leading the way for years. Unusual colours, unique styles, and outrageously high heels are more popular than any buyer from the stationary retail trade would dare to dream. The “young” segment has long understood this and makes its customers drool over the newest collaboration weeks before the official launch date. Blogs, Instragram postings, and mentions on social media platforms multiply in eager anticipation. Could the same strategy work for a special edition of Ludwig Reiter’s “Maronibrater” model? Don’t you think it would be worth a try at least? You think the target audience for boots that cost 650 Euros doesn’t have the same need for communication as the sneaker freaks? Their ecosystem may not be as dominated by modern media, but these customers also want to communicate nonetheless. These customers also have stories to tell. These customers also have a desire to put themselves in a good - probably even a better - light. Do you offer your customers the right incentives? Are you turning your customers on before a purchase? Do you let them stew in their own desires? And is your conquest set in scene appropriately? Have these customers got access to locations, places, and platforms that enable them to present their loot, to be admired with their purchases? Do they receive compliments? Are they perceived as especially knowledgeable? And do they still enjoy their purchases years later? If the online retailers - and all their affiliated media - do one thing better, then it’s letting the customers take over the stage. The stationary retail industry, on the other hand, has erected temples for brands and their products. To this day, architects, visual merchandisers, and store managers don’t tire of glorifying both aspects as icons. But what is more important? Is it the pair of trousers and the supplier, or the customer who has entered the shop to purchase trousers? Maybe the customer doesn’t even need a pair of pants, but is on the hunt for the feeling of happiness triggered by randomly finding a pair that makes him/her look a little more attractive. A recently published study proves that online shoppers are significantly less aware of brands and less loyal to them. Why is that so? The reason is that demands and needs are allowed to take centre stage. The “Casanova lesson” should be learned by all kinds of businesses, be they mono-channel, multi-channel, or omni-channel. The aim has to be to fulfil demands and needs with the utmost vigour, joy, quality, and service readiness. One should never stop thinking about whether a certain demand can be covered by even more service and commodities. Never cease to create needs, stage them, and subsequently meet them perfectly. The most important aspect of being prepared for modern retailing in all shapes and sizes, is to ensure that the customer is always the first thing on your mind - in an unconditional manner and with unprecedented consistency. Just think about how you want to be seduced and follow that lead. It’s up to you what you make of the breakfast on the morning after - as long as you serve it! style in progress 215
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Outside the Box The individual shoe retailers are under pressure. Vertically integrated competitors, as well as the overwhelming competition from e-commerce giants like Zalando or Amazon, are nibbling away at their revenues. Some market participants are also struggling to get their branding right. In this respect, the textile industry has gained a head start. Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Brands and interviewees. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
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At times, numbers can speak for themselves. According to the Association of the German Shoe Retail Trade, the number of smaller shoe shops is declining dramatically. While a 35% share of the market was attributed to stores with revenues of up to one million Euros in 2000, the share plummeted to 19% in 2014. The shoe retail industry is not only struggling with the competition of increasingly large stores, but also with a market structure that should have been adapted ages ago - a step that the fashion retail industry has already made. The unanimous opinion is that the shoe retail industry needs to be faster, more flexible, and more innovative. Even the shoe trade show GDS has moved closer to the fashion fairs by implementing a new content concept and schedule - with success. “We believe the earlier date is market-relevant and up-to-date”, says Lacoste’s Conny Stöckl. And the trade fairs have started to
highlight another quite obvious trend. “Brands will be even more important in the future”, Stöckl adds. “Established retailers can distinguish themselves with brands.” Fashion Retail vs. Shoe Retail
But in what respect are fashion retailers doing a better job than shoe retailers? First and foremost, the fashion industry is better at implementing visual topics and is more open to new ideas. Sadly, the shoe stores of today are still mainly dominated by long rows of brown and black shoes, arranged according to size. The outfit concept is only cottoning on slowly. “The retailers need to be more surprising at the PoS, show more courage, offer perfect service, and focus on creating a unique ambience”, Conny Stöckl says. Anne-Katrin Hummel, the CEO and creative director at Flip Flop, is also critical of the current situation: “In the shoe trade, you still frequently find endless lines of shoes, which cause more confusion than they offer orientation. Based on the experience we gained in our own stores, we have come to the conclusion that a cleaner visual merchandising concept is more successful. The customers need a focal point, an eye-catcher, and an optimal consultation. However, the buyers need budgets that allow them to purchase eye-catchers and new brands for their respective stores.” She also sees large differences in the buying process: “While the shoe retail industry mostly orders conservatively, the fashion retail industry is more willing to take a shot at colours and individual, new styles.” It seems like the shoe trade is rather hesitant to embrace new labels and products. “Just look at the brands that have established themselves in recent years. The list includes the likes of Belstaff, La Martina, and Pretty Ballerina”, explains Candice Cooper’s Christoph Siegel. “In these cases, the brand development came straight from the fashion industry.” Over the last few years, Siegel placed his shoe collections primarily with textile
retailers: “It was quite difficult at first, despite my long-running experience in the shoe trade. A lot of market participants didn’t believe in a new product. The textile trade has a completely different approach in this respect; it is more open and receptive to innovations, even regarding fashion topics.” This experience is shared by many companies looking to establish a new brand. “The customers have a hard time accepting something new”, reveals Felix Staeudinger, the managing director of Panorama Distribution, which introduced Espadrij l’Originale to the market. “You have to sit through many meetings before an order is secured. The willingness to take risks is close to zero.” He has customers from all business segments: “30% of my customers come from the fashion industry, and 30% from the shoe industry. The rest of my business is generated via online shops and concept stores”, Staeudinger explains. The fashion trade is also ahead of the shoe industry in terms of brand building. “Actually it’s easier to do in the textile industry, even though there are high-quality shoe stores too”, says Jason Pfyffer, whose agency represents - among others - the brand Moma in Switzerland and Austria. “Building a brand is an incredibly important factor, especially within the current competitive climate.” Nevertheless, the shoe retail industry is still the mainstay for many shoe brands. Pepijn van Bommel, the commercial director of Floris van Bommel, confirms this: “The product ranges of specialised shoe retailers will always be more diverse, and the customers demand variety. However, the share of our German business generated via fashion retailers is higher than in the Benelux countries. We believe that the reason for this is that the German shoe retailers focus on the mid-level and lower price segments, thereby leaving a gap for fashion stores.” Brand Building Mission
The shoe retail industry has its strengths, but how can it be
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supported in terms of brand building? Not only the retailers, but also many shoe manufacturers, believe it is enough to simply present a good product. Jason Pfyffer, the managing partner of Agency Under Construction, disagrees completely: “That hasn’t been enough for quite a while. The first step is to present the product at the right retailers. In addition, one has to invest heavily in market communication. Brands need the direct contact with consumers via Facebook or Instagram.” Many brands, such as Espadrij l’Originale and Flip Flop, try to assist the retailers visually by supplying displays for the stores. This works particularly well for products with high recognition values. The measures of brands like Lacoste go even further: “Every season, we supply retailers with PoS and decoration sets free of charge. Our merchandising teams ensure that those sets harmonise with the products perfectly, which, in turn, ultimately supports the sales figures”, Conny Stöckl explains. In addition, the field representatives organise training sessions for the sales personnel, during which every staff member receives information material regarding the brand and the new collection. The brands invest a lot of time and money in a number of measures: “We have a very active and dedicated account management team, offer numerous promotion options for the PoS, ensure a direct and swift retrieval of seasonal items, do a lot of PR work, and support our collections with advertising”, Pepijn van Bommel reveals. “A brand like Frye Boots, which serves both the fashion and shoe trade in equal parts, offers inhouse sales and brand training, as well as very flexible goods exchange options”, says Ben Botas, whose fashion agency Ben and the Brand Band represents Frye Boots. Speed and Flexibility
Botas’ statement addresses the trend to products that can be delivered at short notice, which is a trend that has a long tradition in the fashion retail industry. Anne-Katrin Hummel agrees: “We offer very fast and highly individual customer service, which enables our cus-
tomers to order items on stock throughout the entire season. Short-term delivery cycles are indeed becoming increasingly important. We monitor the market very closely to ensure that we can place additional new trend products precisely when needed.” Is this a general solution for the individual shoe trade? “The retailers are clamouring for it”, Felix Staeudinger says. “I can’t offer it, as we find it impossible to plan.” He plans to increase his agency’s stock with a view to offer re-orders for certain models. “We support our customers with re-orders. However, only customers who have placed a pre-order are entitled to a short-term re-order”, Staeudinger adds. “Ultimately, it’s a question of risks.” Candice Cooper’s Christoph Siegel shares this view: “The demand is obviously there, but for us it simply doesn’t work. Personally, I would focus on staggered delivery dates. The seasons have shifted due to the unpredictable weather.” Ben Botas is also convinced that short delivery cycles minimise the risks for retailers and increase the profitability of the brands. “Frye Boots always offers 70% of its models on stock. Even single pairs can be re-ordered free of charge and are delivered within two days. This is very well received by the customers, but is also a huge financial burden”, Botas explains. Not everyone can afford vast stock keeping. In this respect, Floris van Bommel benefits from the fact that it has its own production plant in Holland. “Over the last few years, we have developed a ‘Season Stock Programme’, which consists of more than 70 current models of the ongoing season. We would like to give the retailers an opportunity to maximise sales with popular products, while minimising their risk in the process”, Pepijn van Bommel says. Many of these concepts are already integral parts of the fashion retail industry. It may pay off for shoe retailers to think outside the box a little too.
“The textile trade is more open to new products.” Christoph Siegel Candice Cooper
“The willingness to take risks is close to zero.” Felix Staeudinger, Panorama Distribution
“The product ranges of specialised shoe retailers will always be more diverse.” Pepijn van Bommel, Floris van Bommel
“Brands will be even more important in the future.” Conny Stöckl, Lacoste
“The customers need a focal point and an eye-catcher.” Anne-Katrin Hummel, Flip Flop
“Short delivery cycles minimise the risks for retailers and increase the profitability of the brands.” Ben Botas, Ben and the Brand Band
“Building a brand is an incredibly important factor, especially within the current competitive climate.” Jason Pfyffer, Agency Under Construction
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Casa Dolce Casa* Shaken by the crisis in the domestic market, many Italian fashion brands have decided to focus on exports. Abroad, the “Made in Italy” tag is more esteemed than ever. However, those who are aware of the fragility of the facade are those who are trying to paper over the cracks. Text: Martina Müllner. Interview assistance: Thesy Kness-Bastaroli. Photos: Manufacturers. Illustration: Claudia Meitert @Caroline Seidler
Whether the rest of Europe, the US, China, or the emerging markets in the Middle East - Made in Italy is seen as a hallmark in all export markets, mainly because Italy is perceived as Europe’s premier fashion nation. Expert craftsmanship, fashion competence, and family-dominated production structures are the main reasons why Italian products can be marketed so excellently on an international level. However, Italy’s fashion industry is facing many challenges by problems that seem to have been the same for years: high taxes, an absurd bureaucracy, paralysing political conditions, a shadow economy, declining sales figures, and a domestic slowdown in consumer spending. It’s not like the nation of survivors hasn’t already come to terms with the situation, but this “coming to terms” is exactly why both politics and advocacy appear so toothless. The Enemy Within
*There’s No Place Like Home
There are enough horror stories floating around. Prato, which was once synonymous with high quality production, “has become the embodiment of the crisis in Italy”, according to the Italian Fashion Chamber. No less than 4,800 Chinese companies are registered there; the authorities lost all perspective ages ago. It is an open secret that Italian laws are rarely respected. Investigative journalists from all over the globe are having a field day documenting the environment and conditions. The crux is that all companies utilise the “Made in Italy” seal, which is not even a lie. Offered on markets and in department stores, “ChinItaly”, which is how this new dimension of “Pronto Moda” is more commonly known, is a strong competitor for all Italian goods. No matter whether you witness the migrant trafficking that takes place every Saturday in “Via Papiniano” near the “Naviglio”
or visit the Friday market at the “Cinquealpini”, the greengrocers on Milan’s markets are outnumbered massively. The locations of the best “ChinItaly” market stalls are the talk of the town, and even the middle and upper classes of the fashion metropolis like “visiting the Chinese”. These customers are sorely missed where one would imagine the home of Italian design to be. Guglielmo Miani, the president of the association representing the luxury retailers in Milan’s fashion square, says: “70% of our turnover is generated by foreigners.” While China’s new elite comes here to surrender to a veritable consumption binge, exiled Chinese hire themselves out to peddle discount fashion produced by Chinese-run Italian production facilities just a few kilometres down the road. But this is only one side of the competition from within the own borders. Italian manufacturers are equally skilled at taking advantage of the lax rules regarding origin designation. There are stories about jeans manufacturers who, during the production process, use their company aircraft to fly their goods to and fro between Italy and Romania often enough to ensure they are legally allowed to sew in a “Made in Italy” tag at the end. Are there any official statements on all these issues? The notorious “Omertá”, the Italian wall of silence, is intact for a very good reason. Many manufacturers are terrified of being thrown into the same pot as the real black sheep. That would make it considerably more difficult to claim a clean slate. Aggressive Counter Course
The manufacturers of luxury goods have so far been least affected by these problems. It seems like common sense to assume that expensive products are defined by expensive qualities and expensive craftsmanship. However, widely acclaimed TV
documentaries, such as a recent RAI broadcast about Moncler and Prada, are chipping away at this certainty. Transparency and open communication are vital. Those who have a clear conscience should ensure that this asset is communicated accordingly. The consumers of today know and accept that not every Italian fashion company necessarily produces in the country to 100%. “A product’s designation of origin is an additional benefit that is rewarded by customers”, says Stefano Rovoletto, the founder of Duvetica. The entire processing of the brand’s French quality down takes place in two Bulgarian production facilities, which are openly communicated. “This European origin is considered to be a distinctive element, appreciated by both retailers and consumers, especially in the Asian markets, where the European origin is a ‘must have’. This is especially true for China, which is solely a market for us, not a sourcing country”, Stefano Rovoletto continues. Brunello Cucinelli, a cashmere brand that has grown into a lifestyle supplier, is also aware of this phenomenon. “Our Chinese customers visit our headquarters in the Borgo Solomeo. They do not only photograph our production processes, our design department, and our cafeteria, but also photograph the table, where and how the knives and forks are placed, and even the position of the wine glasses. Everything branded as ‘Made in Italy’, is sexy for them and they want to imitate it.” Abroad, “Made in Italy” is like a knighthood for products. This view is also shared by Stefano Colombo, the head of marketing at sportswear brand Colmar: “The ‘Made in’ tag is not particularly important to domestic customers, but highly important to the foreign ones. Over the next five years, we want to increase our export share from style in progress 215
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Stefano Rovoletto, owner of Duvetica: “European origin is considered to be an important distinctive element.”
Bruno Cucinelli, major shareholder of the eponymous brand: “Everything branded as ‘Made in Italy’ is sexy for our Chinese customers.”
Stefano Colombo, head of marketing at Colmar: “‘Made in Italy’ is a brand in its own right and clearly defines Italian savoir faire.”
Marco Tiburzi, managing director of Jacob Cohen: “We have attached the tag ‘Made in Veneto’ to our collections.”
currently 30% to 50%. The ‘Made in’ aspect plays a vital role in achieving this goal. ‘Made in Italy’ is a brand in its own right and clearly defines the Italian savoir faire.” Mario Boglioli, a start-up entrepreneur with the label The Gigi and a dropout from the company that bears his surname, explains: “The importance of ‘Made in’ is strictly dependent on which market segment you are referring to. It becomes more important the higher the brand is positioned. While it is true that the sensitivity in this respect is on the increase, it is constantly challenged by price pressure created by consumers.” What Justifies Prices
Marco Tiburzi, the managing director of high-end jeans brand Jacob Cohen, goes one step further: “We have attached the label ‘Made in Veneto’ to our collection. It strengthens the 215 style in progress
trust of our customers. I am certainly not a chauvinist or even a separatist, but it is well known within the industry that the best sewers and the best ‘fashion craft’ come from the Veneto region.” The brand’s communication strategy never tires to highlight the benefits of craftsmanship from Veneto. “Unlike big fashion brands, where the jeans are produced on an industrial basis, many steps of our production process are still done manually.” These are the stories that need to be told by retail partners such as Braun, Lodenfrey, or Eckerle. The difference has to be tangible for the consumers and justify the higher price. Colmar also provides buying incentives free of charge: “We are a family business that was established 91 years ago. Experience, family management, know-how regarding design and quality, and quality control are the added values we can offer.
Mario Boglioli, owner of The Gigi: “Italy needs to reinvent itself.”
In the ‘Manifattura Colombo’, our laboratory in Monza, we have been researching quality for almost 100 years. This makes the difference”, Stefano Colombo says with pride. Beware of the Future!
But don’t all these stories have a patina? Doesn’t our imagination become sepia tinged when we picture competent craftsmen operating ancient machines in small manufactories? Italy’s biggest challenge is buried deep in this cliché. Measured by the level of competitors from the Far East, the clothing technology is often outdated. If somebody requires high-tech features such as welded seams, the romantic image is of little use. The product still needs to be sourced from Asia. Furthermore, the jobs in the factories are not particularly tempting for young people. Which modern person would
agree to perform the same manual task for an entire lifetime? This is why the Italian clothing industry is already relying on an army of foreign workers, who are still willing to provide manual labour while Italy’s youth is more interested in hacking away at computer keyboards. Mario Boglioli is convinced that: “We will have to reinvent ourselves, knowing that we are part of a globalised world, where the Internet will play an important role and where creativity can be found anywhere at any time.” It is therefore necessary to create conditions beyond the use of the “Made in Italy” tag. “Italy has all the means and potential, not only to retain its position within the clothing industry, but to improve it. However, our country itself has to become more competitive to achieve this.”
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Luxury is Undemocratic Luca Caprai, how important is “Made in Italy” to you personally?
All our products are made in Italy. More importantly, 90% of our products are made in Cruciani. Today, our family business employs almost 500 people. It hasn’t become easier to maintain production facilities in Italy, especially as the labour taxes are incredibly high. As in our case, it has to be a philosophy and strategy of a company to commit itself to “Made in Italy” to 100%. One thing is clear; the “Made in Italy” that we represent is a luxury item. This is why I feel all the more obliged to ensure that our products are made of the best materials available. It is not for me to judge whether this means that we supply the best products. However, I can guarantee that we produce the best products possible within our means regarding quality standards, raw materials, and craftsmanship.
This is certainly not the case for every product that bears the “Made in Italy” logo. There are different standards. Somebody who invests 20 Euros in the production of a sweater simply cannot offer the same quality as someone who invests 600 Euros. How do you assess the future of “Made in Italy” in terms of young talent?
I strongly believe that every epoch has its own geniuses, whether they are called Leonardo da Vinci or Steve Jobs. That’s why I am not too worried. However, we need to explain our quality to the younger generation in a very different manner, and make it more visible in the process. Twenty years ago, one either bought medium-priced fashion or quality brands. The “fast fashion” of today has overridden this system and the customer’s perception of quality. This means we need to be clearer when explaining quality, taste, our
manufacturing processes, and our attention to detail. If you bought brands of a certain level twenty years ago, you wouldn’t dream of combining them with items that cost no more than a couple of Euros. However, it is chic to do so today. Does that make you sad?
Unfortunately, the luxury items we produce are undemocratic. However, I do find it questionable that the new millionaires, who were created by the “fast fashion” industry, earn such horrendous margins by exploiting the poorest of the poor. Paying peanuts while selling like a god is not a philosophy that would make me happy. Does that mean you don’t understand your colleagues who decide to move to foreign shores?
Of course I understand them. Italy really isn’t a country that makes things easy for entrepreneurs. Many have to relocate their production facilities to survive. Last year, no less than 1,000 companies based in Italy closed down - per day! That is a hugely dangerous development. I remember Barack Obama telling Apple that products like the
Take a seat - Cruciani’s CEO Luca does not only have a strong sense for luxurious quality, but also for art. The company’s new jewellery line co-operates directly with artists.
iPhone should really be made in the US. The Apple management simply explained that the US no longer has the know-how and culture to produce such a product. I fear this may also be the case in Italy. A country that loses its culture also loses its memory. If we continue like this, we will lose our foundation. I have a message for all those who believe that the Italian nation can survive when its own people working in the financial and corporate consulting sectors recommend such production relocations. If you poison the water, you soon forget that you yourself - or your children or grandchildren - will have to drink that water some day. If we award free reign to consultants, they will do an excellent job, thus slowly but surely eradicating those who are willing to buy the respective products. It may not make a difference if one businessman decides to relocate his production. But who will buy our products if we all decide to do it? You once said yourself that the market sometimes forces your hand…
I sure did. But then you need to own up to the situation and be confident enough to openly acknowledge that the product in question is made in Vietnam or Cambodia. If you still try to claim that your product is made in Italy, then I can merely say: Truth will out.
Luca Caprai is the managing director of the family-owned company Maglital S.r.L., which is the parent holding of brands such as Cruciani, Cruciani C (bracelets), and Cruciani C Luxury Pop. The latter is the company’s new jewellery collection, which already boasted 2,000 retail customers worldwide when it was launched. Caprai develops distinctive designs in collaboration with Pop Art artists. The entrepreneur truly detests being copied, mainly because his Cruciani C bracelets are among the most copied products on the market. The Caprai family does not only generate revenue with fashion alone; the business also includes, among other ventures, a vineyard.
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070 FASHION
Dress If You Must Photos: Maximilian vom Hofe Art direction & production: Mody Al Khufash/JLFF Studio
Cardigan: Maiami Dress (as blouse): Airfield Skirt: Drykorn Socks: Falke Boots: Dr. Martens 215 style in progress
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Top: Tibi Jacket: Sportalm Culottes skirt: Paul & Joe style in progress 215
Top: 0039 Italy Bra: Princesse Tam Tam Coat: Olea Skirt: Drykorn Socks: Falke Boots: Dr. Martens 215 style in progress
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Jacket: Parajumpers Pullover: Twin-Set Bra: Princesse Tam Tam Dress: Marc O’Polo style in progress 215
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Pullover: Minimum Jacket: Boulezar Dress: Cinque Boots: Dr. Martens 215 style in progress
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Pullover: Cinque Bra: Princesse Tam Tam Dress: Boulezar style in progress 215
Hair/Make-up: Benjamin Becher@Nina Klein with products by Kevin Murphy and Dior, Model: Karla Belfort@Model Management, Fashion assistance: Helena Grierson@JLFF Studio
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Blouse: Sand Negligee: Twin-Set Jacket: Spiewak Skirt: Twin-Set
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Vest: Matchless Dress: Evleo Bra: Princesse Tam Tam Jacket: G-Lab Skirt: Maerz style in progress 215
Trends Autumn/Winter 2015/16
Othertrousers
Goodbye skinny jeans, welcome… well, which one? Is it the time of the contemporary boyfriend cut, or maybe the girlfriend cut (slimmer and more figure flattering)? Could the age of the mom’s jeans (high waistline and carrot cut) be dawning? Or should we turn to jog pants, three-quarter trousers, flares, baby boot cuts, women’s trousers in men’s designs, or even cargo pants? It doesn’t really matter, especially as the motto of most designers seems to be “as long as it’s different”. The new looks of trousers are in the process of triggering a real revolution: the high waistlines require new tops, the elegant cloth trousers require new coats, and the revealing shortened pants require new shoes. Rightly so, as buyers and consumers have felt that there is no need to purchase long enough.
Changing of the Guard..There is nothing new out there? That couldn’t be further from the truth. Two major product groups, namely trousers and jackets, are making a 180 degree turn. The fashion that’s already in the cupboard needs to be replaced urgently. At last! The visible silhouette change may not break with the “anything goes” principle, but it does make old items look their age - much to the delight of the fashion retail industry. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Manufacturers, Bernhard Musil
L(!)W Brand A Denim Smith’s American
Alberto
Fracomina
Saint Paul
Wool & Co
Hilfiger Denim
AG Alberto
G Design
Barb’one
René Lezard
Airfield
G Design
Tricker’s
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Cape in Town
A mild winter has taught us a few important lessons. One rarely needs to wrap oneself in thick down jackets and knee-length parkas. This opens the door to a new chic. Chunky knitwear and light crossover jackets can be prepared for cold - but not icy - winter days by combining them with fine capes, plaids, and ponchos. The only thing that really reminds us of snow and ice is the colour palette: white and ecru, as well as ice blue and frost grey. A welcome alternative to the uni-colour variant: tartans, chequers, or ikat patterns that add an extra sense of adventure to all trendy items.
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Stetson
Spiewak
Alpha Studio Brooktorquai 8
Closed Johnstons of Elgin
Woolrich Peuterey
Lodenfrey 1842
Blaumax Bloom
Cividini Marc O’Polo
Drykorn
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The Small Jacket
One may be tempted to declare the parka dead, but reality paints a different picture. Its rich features and obligatory fur collar have heaved it to a price level that is in desperate need of an underbody. The “small jacket”, the anorak, and hidden down supply just that. They offer a new look, but above all a new price point that rekindles the desire for consumption. So why is the highly successful down hiding underneath wool, loden, and high-tech materials? The answer is simple: goose and duck feathers currently don’t have the best image. The discussion about down sourced from live animals has even affected manufacturers that utilise certified sources.
Save the Duck
Parajumpers
Haxton London
Handstich Fracomina
No.1 Como
Woolrich Ecoalf
G-Lab
Luis Trenker Berg
Parajumpers
Blauer USA
Tatras
Save the Duck
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The Modern Three-Piece
The upcoming season marks the return of an old friend: the three-piece. Complemented by a gilet, the classic suit can show its modern side. However, the three-piece concept is not limited to suits. A matching scarf (no cloth!) can be combined with a casual sports jacket and shirt, a hat with a vest and blazer, and a knitted gilet with a leather jacket and shirt. One can - no, one has to - show some imagination to implement the look in a credible manner. A fashion theme that is absolutely perfect for the fashion retail industry and its service competence.
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CG Club of Gents Wool & Co
Closed
Marc O’Polo
Minimum Extended Lucky de Luca Milestone
Gas
Meindl
Tagliatore Sand CG Club of Gents Johnstons of Elgin
Stetson
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Coat
A brilliant comeback - the coat is the changing of the guard for outdoor jackets with functionality, down, and parkas. The new coat is classic in the best sense, but also modern enough to ensure that the model from five years ago is no longer acceptable. Razor-sharp cuts make it almost impossible not to celebrate the coat as the key piece of an outfit. New lengths, dominant colours, and shapes that beg to be set in scene - the coat truly is the defining element of a winter outfit, especially for women. The men’s models have just as much character, however. The coat defines the tone and tenor of an outfit.
Marc Cain Milestone Minimum Extended
Tommy Hilfiger Tailored Tommy Hilfiger
Lodenfrey 1842
Blonde No8 Lodenfrey 1842
Closed Liu Jo Paltò
Luigi Borelli
Marc O’Polo
The Gigi
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Knitted (Jacket)
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Drew & Co
Just look at that variety of materials: mohair, bouclÊ, cable stitch, with a glittering hue due to bright yarns and prints. Then there are the many ideas regarding shape: overlapping shoulders, classic raglans, and new lengths. Not to mention the qualities: thick, cosy, quaint blends that ensure both practicality and commerciality. If all these components come together, then knitwear is capable of doing what one wouldn’t expect it to do: make up for a lack of sales in the outdoor segment. Clearly - with the exception of fashionable midriff sweaters - magnificent winter knitwear is a perfect jacket substitute on mild days.
Massimo Alba
Alpha Studio
Bob
Better Rich
Wool & Co
Bloom 0941
Blaumax
Lightning Bolt
Mountain Force
Closed
OC Authentic Fleece
Pringle of Scotland
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Zip It
Cool metal on bare skin the zipper is too popular to be merely seen as a side show next season. Once it is liberated from its purely functional aspect, it can have a huge effect on the design of an item. It gives an outfit a rebellious touch and injects a little of the good old rock & roll feeling. If it is placed where it doesn’t really belong, it can embody non-conformity. It highlights pockets on tight trousers, gives shirts an unconventional touch, and directs the gaze to the new and different elements of a fashion item.
Deyk
Milestone
R 13
Spiewak
Marc O’Polo
Bomboogie
Marlino Mabrun
Meindl Ylati
IQ+ Berlin
Blonde No8
Liu Jo Belvest G-Lab
Sand
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The Real Leather
FASHION 085 B Belt
Soft washed, worn-in, or pre-loved? Yes, of course – and in new prominence, for instance as an evening dress. However, black nappa is also set to make a comeback next season. It’s untreated, unwashed, and unadorned - as hard, stubborn, and stiff as it naturally is. It’s a perfect match for calf-length coats, figure-hugging blousons and biker jackets, sexy mini-skirts, and the new style trousers. It even suits items that one doesn’t normally associate with leather outfits, such as hoodies, gilets, or down jackets.
Minimum
Keds
Meindl Parajumpers Luigi Borelli
Mabrun Iheart
Marc O’Polo
Vico
Liu Jo Blauer USA
Tommy Hilfiger
Drykorn
Drykorn
Drykorn
L(!)W Brand
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086 IN STORE
The New Treasure Chamber Franz & Emil/Dresden. The city of Dresden has added yet another attraction to its historical city centre. After many years, Thomas Acksel has finally realised his dream of opening his very own shop in his hometown. His store, named Franz & Emil, is the new favourite destination for men with character. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: Franz & Emil
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“Our location is sensational. We are in the midst of the city’s main attractions and surrounded by some of the best hotels”, Thomas Acksel says. He opened his store in the pedestrian zone leading up to the passage to the “Augustusbrücke”, just a stone’s throw from the “Frauenkirche”, “Semper Oper”, “Schlossplatz”, and “Neumarkt”, as well as being in the immediate vicinity of the “Residenzschloss”, which houses the state art collection, and the new green “Gewölbe”. “The first few weeks went very well, there are many tourists here. The proportion is definitely somewhere between 70% and 80%. In addition to the many German customers, who come to Dresden for a weekend break,
we have numerous visitors from Switzerland, South Africa, and the US”, Acksel explains. “Due to regular congresses and conferences, as well as the various (Christmas) markets, Dresden is an attractive tourist destination all year round. Currently we are planning the expansion of our online presence, which will complement the store nicely.” The store is furbished with old vintage furniture and a few pieces by the Berlin-based manufacturer Noodels, Noodles & Noodles. The interior design concept was developed by Studio Albert + Guccione. Always Reliable
The name Franz & Emil is derived from a term used by
German airmen. Franz stands for navigators, while Emil stands for pilots. Both need to be able to rely on each other at all times, to ensure that they reach their destination safely. Thomas Acksel added the suffix “Brands for Characters” to the store’s name. With a business education to his name, he quit his old job, turned his back on Berlin after seven years, and, together with his girlfriend Anne Maria Gehlar, set off in the direction of his Saxon hometown. “We haven’t regretted this decision for one second. Only yesterday, a South African visited our store and bought five Dukes belts, a leather band, and a pair of Prps jeans. It’s really fun. We also have local customers who understand
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Thomas Acksel wants to offer his customers something special and communicate the stories behind the products and brands.
A Triumph Bonneville and a large portrait of Marlon Brando are the main eye-catchers in the store.
our concept. They come and buy their Red Wings or Edwin jeans”, he reveals. Franz & Emil already had more than 1,000 followers on Facebook before the store was officially opened. Thomas Acksel: “We strive to
post something on Facebook and Instagram every day. In addition, we have managed to place flyers at a friendly barber shop, had a half-page article published in a local newspaper, and will organise a few in-store events in the
future. The events will include gay days and music concerts. It’s not possible to build a strong customer base without being on the move.”
Franz & Emil Schlossstrasse 20 01067 Dresden/Germany www.franzundemil.com Opening: 6th of Sept. 2014 Owner: Thomas Acksel Store manager: Anne Maria Gehlar Sales area: 120 sqm Men’s brands: Alden, Andersen-Andersen, Baracuta, Barbour Heritage, Bastong, Bowery, Corridor, C.P. Company, Deus ex Machina by Babour, Dukes, DU4, Edwin Jeans, Fil Noir, Filson, Gilded Age, Gitman Bros., G.R.P., Inis Meáin, Japan Blue Jeans, Johnson Motors Inc., Knowledge Cotton Apparel, Levi’s Made & Crafted, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Manifattura Ceccarelli, Merz b. Schwanen, Momotaro Jeans, Naked & Famous Denim, Nigel Cabourn, Prps Denim, Prps Noir, Railcar Fine Goods, Reds, Red Wing Shoes, Tellason, Tricker’s, Salvatore Piccolo, Schiesser Revival, Spiewak, Tanner Goods, Ten C Accessories brands: Diplomat Pen, Mühle Rasur, Passion France, Emma Opitz
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088 IN STORE
Small and exquisite - the carefully selected product range is displayed in a straightforward manner.
“Töfflibueb” Daniel “Dany” Bächler has found his destiny – his own shop in Zurich’s “Kreis 3” district.
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What a Bunch of “Töfflibueben” Denim & Iron/Zurich. Zurich has a new Mecca for real men with bikes. Where the owner parks his own Norton motorcycle in the middle of his store, is where the bikers can find products that embody freedom and adventure. Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: Denim & Iron
Daniel Bächler has been working in the fashion business for 15 years. Initially he was a marketing and media planner, but he soon took a job as a salesman at “VMC” in Zurich, before being appointed as general manager at “Jet Store” in Zurich and St. Moritz. Eight years ago, Bächler was given the opportunity to acquire an interest in “Kahoona Ltd.”. “Kahoona” was a trendy casual fashion store in Zurich’s Seefeld and its product portfolio is based on the “hang loose” mentality of surfers and snowboarders. Unfortunately, the company saw its lease terminated after fourteen successful years in business. The management decided to close “Kahoona” for good. When Dreams Come True…
However, Daniel Bächler didn’t mourn this loss very long. He quickly realised that it was time for a change and turned his attention to the realisation of a dream that had been gently growing inside him for quite a while. He always wanted to turn his passion for motorcycling into a business. His result was the plan to open a small, exquisite store exclusively for “Töfflibueben” (Swiss dialect term for bikers). He decided that he wanted to create an Eldorado for bikers, a place where the lads’ lifestyle can spread out freely and the boys can browse through widely unknown brands that
The store’s focus is on everything a man needs for biking, but will also enjoy wearing in everyday life.
are hard to get anywhere else. However, a lack of contacts for such an idea in Zurich and its surrounding areas presented a problem. After Daniel Bächler found his desired location in the up-and-coming 3rd district of Zurich, he travelled to Los Angeles to tie down as yet unknown brands and scoured the world for items that no real biker would be able to resist. The result is very impressive: Denim & Iron is now the exclusive Swiss retailer of brands such as Chopper Fever, Leftfield NYC, Rogue Territory, Wrenchmonkees, and many other unique labels. The premise is that it must be possible to wear all items in the store casually and coolly on an everyday basis. This balancing act has been mastered successfully, especially as the bike enthusiast community is growing steadily. The number of attendants of various events such as “Wheels & Waves” (Biarritz, France), “The Distinguished Gentlemen’s Ride” (worldwide), and “Oil Leak Rumble” (Zurich) is multiplying from year to year. Daniel Bächler is confident that this is merely the start of a movement and that the community will continue to evolve over the next few years. The combination of freedom, independence, nature experiences, and cool styling is right in line with the zeitgeist. Women for the Future
Today’s bikers are not only inspired by their motorcycles alone, but have also developed an interest in art, graffiti, and a more sophisticated lifestyle. These aspects are mirrored in the designs, cuts, and fabrics of the goods, as is proven by silk bandanas with casual prints. Denim & Iron has become a “look & feel” retail experience. Every jacket on display is literally crying out for a wearer, the jeans are untreated raw denims, and the boots are super comfortable, yet also of such expert craftsmanship, that they are predestined to be companions for life. Daniel Bächler’s little store already attracts customers from far afield. Word about the unique items at Denim & Iron spread very quickly. By the way, the store
also operates an online shop. The products aren’t artificially expensive; their prices merely mirror their value, especially as most items are hand-made by smaller manufacturers. However, Daniel Bächler is not the kind of man who parks his Norton Commander 750 Scramble from 1971 in his store and then rests on his laurels. The 41 year old, thrilled by the overwhelmingly positive feedback, is already thinking ahead. He is plotting a kind of factory shop, where one can live and share the biker lifestyle. A place for building custom bikes, where bikers can meet, hang out, and talk shop. This is where female bikers come into the picture too. The current location is simply too small to accommodate a product range for women.
Denim & Iron Birmendorferstrasse 199 8003 Zurich/Switzerland www.denimandiron.ch Opening: September 2014 Owner: Daniel Bächler Employees: 1 Sales area: 60 sqm + 20 sqm warehouse Fashion brands: Blitz Motorcycles, Chopper Fever, Edwin, E.L.M.C./Eastman Leather, El Solitario Motor Co., Filson, Five Brother, Gitman Vintage, Hemen Biarritz, Hawick, Iron and Resin, Johnson Motors Inc., Lee, Leftfield NYC, Levi’s Vintage, Merz b. Schwanen, Railcar Fine Goods, Rocky Mtn. Featherbed, Rogue Territory, Schott NYC, SNS Herning, Spiewak Golden Fleece, Tellason, Vanson Leathers, Velva Sheen, Wrenchmonkees Shoe brands: Chippewa, Red Wing, Tricker’s, Vans Accessories brands: AO Eyewear 1833, A Piece of Chic, Aviator Goggles, Bell Helmets, Blitz Motorcycles, Buco Vintage Helmets, Churchill Gloves, Deus Ex-Machina, Dice Magazine, Drake’s, Dukes, E.L.M.C./Eastman Leather, Filson, Heritage Post Magazine, Hestra Gloves, Iron an Resin, Johnson Motors Inc., Merz b. Schwanen, Moto Heroes Magazine, Otter Wax, Passion France, Pendleton, Poler Stuff, Red’s Leather, Rooktown, Stance, Stetson, Tanner Goods, The Barstow, Wrenchmonkees
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090 IN STORE
Avant-garde is Back Wormland/Berlin. When Theo Wormland opened his first store in Hanover in 1935, he was rightly labelled the “avantgardist of menswear”, setting new standards in the process. A branch of the menswear specialist in Berlin, capital of the German avant-garde movements in art, music and fashion, was long overdue. Text: Quynh Tran. Photos: Wormland
The opening of the “Mall of Berlin” afforded Wormland the opportunity to make its debut in the capital and show off its masculine side. While the mall itself strove to revive the glorious past of “Leipziger Platz”, and pay tribute to the black and white tiles and golden Art Deco of the historic Wertheim department store in the 1920s, Wormland acted as a counter balance which celebrated the unfinished, rough edges of the city. A Town House
“Exceptional, cool and always one step ahead in terms of style, Wormland fits perfectly with the vibe of Berlin,” says managing director Oliver Beuthien about the new location. Hence the concept is titled “Wormland - a piece of Berlin”. You are welcomed by an industrial chic and house beats, mainly compiled by the in-house label “Wormland Music”. Dark grey brick, exposed concrete, black steel plates, and the sight of exposed pipes and air ducts make you feel as though you have left the shopping centre and entered a factory building. The young brands in the entrance area - Diesel Black Gold, Transit, Scotch & Soda, and the private labels Theo and
Autark - are a wonderful fit. The must-haves are a bit trendier and avant-garde than elsewhere, exactly as the tradition of the house demands, and are also a touch more fashionable than classic men’s outfitters. Street Art and Apparel
The music is toned down and the atmosphere warmer on the second floor. Street Art installations by Katrin Fridriks hang in front of the windows, while denim and outdoor labels such as Blauer USA, Calvin Klein Jeans, Canada Goose, G-Star, Replay and Wellensteyn, are arranged on rustic oak frames. Go one floor higher and the atmosphere is more refined: the wood is darker, the metal walls are more elegant, and the music fades into the background. Leather armchairs lounge in front of shelves stocked with art books, and the “kaleidoscope of fashion brands for men” is completed with office-appropriate apparel, leather accessories by Marc Jacobs, suits by Hugo and Tiger of Sweden, and coats by Drykorn and Karl Lagerfeld. From the avant-garde to classic fashion, there is something to satisfy almost every taste with over 50 brands on three floors. The clearly defined interior
50 employees guarantee excellent service – Wormland strives to beat its competitors in this respect.
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concept and trained sales staff make the shopping experience a veritable pleasure and certainly provide a welcome addition to the city. Wormland is in great company with its selected assortment of labels such as Armani Jeans, Boss and Strenesse, which are generally hard to find in shopping malls. Denim and young fashion labels, such as 7 For All Mankind, Denim & Supply Ralph Lauren, Hollister and G-Star, give the mall a unique brand mix featuring a high proportion of young labels which can otherwise only be found in Berlin at the “Hackescher Markt”. The founding father Theo Wormland, the arts and music promoter also well-known for his progressive thinking, would certainly look fondly at the Berlin scene. Maybe he would also be proud to have contributed to the revival of an industry on the site of a former Jewish department store – a location he once refused to move into as it was forcibly expropriated from its Jewish owners.
Wormland Men’s Fashion Mall of Berlin, Leipziger Platz 12, 10117 Berlin/Germany Opening: September 2014 CEO: Oliver Beuthien Sales area: 2,000 sqm Employees: 50 Brands: Belstaff, Blauer USA, Canada Goose, Calvin Klein, Cinque, Denham, Diesel, Drakewood, Drykorn, G-Star, Hugo Boss, Karl Lagerfeld, Marc Jacobs, Nagano, Nudie Jeans, Pierre Balmain, Replay, Scotch & Soda, Strellson, Tiger of Sweden, Wellensteyn, and many more
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Raw, open, and unfinished – Wormland’s branch in Berlin pays tribute to the character of the city.
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092 IN STORE
Utilising clothes racks made by the Berlin furniture maker Noodles, Noodles & Noodles, was a heartfelt desire for Mark McGuire.
The Lucky Strike A Good Man/Berlin. Mark McGuire was actually only looking for a larger office space for his agency. But what he found was the perfect location for a cosy menswear store. He followed his gut instinct and decided to go for it. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka. Photos: A Good Man
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Mark McGuire is certainly not an unknown entity in the fashion industry, as he is well-known through his earlier work at several major trade fairs. His exemplary network helped get his spontaneous idea of a store for high quality menswear, at affordable prices, up and running within a short space of time. “The decision was made within a week, completely asynchronous to the rhythm of the market. Of course we hadn’t placed any orders, so we called friendly agencies and distributors and asked what they had available to compile our range“, recalls Mark McGuire. At first friends, acquaintances and neighbours came, and now tourists come in ever increasing numbers. “The area between the western ‘Torstrasse’ and the SV Blau Weiss Berolina Mitte football club ground is developing into a real crowd puller. Men who bring their kids to football practice always stop by our store. Right next door is an established jeweller and a popular furniture designer. On the corner across the road there is the “Lokal” restaurant, where our target audience often go for lunch or dinner“, McGuire explains his neighbourhood.
Real Life
The prices at A Good Man start in the commercial mid-range. Shirts by DU4 or a pair of Dr. Martens are available for around 150 Euros, a two-piece Ben Sherman suit costs 300 Euros, Knowledge Cotton Apparel Pullovers made from sheep wool are priced at around 170 Euros. Keep your feet on the ground is McGuire’s motto: “Men come to us who do not have the time or desire to shop in large department stores or online shops. They prefer personal service, appreciate honest advice, good service, and to be bid farewell with a handshake.” The client base is growing through word-of-mouth; Mark McGuire has limited his advertising to Facebook and Instagram for the time being. Handcrafted but in no way unprofessional: A friend modelled for the autumn/ winter campaign photo shoot and brought his vintage brown Alpha Romeo Coupe with him. “It has a similar ambiance to so-called ‘Tante Emma’ stores; customers come in, chat, and have coffee. Others spend time exploring off the beaten path, looking to buy something that does not exist on every corner,”
explains the almost 50 year old. This includes the collection by Brosbi from Dortmund, colourful socks by the Dutch record label Effio, or Duffle coats by Menil based in London’s East End. Mark McGuire primarily looks for new brands at Seek in Berlin. In 2015 he is planning small events as incentives for his customers: “The guys from Oak will offer advice about beard trimming, Ben Sherman has already had some ideas, and my old friend Professor Jo Groebel will talk about general topics like etiquette and what it is to be a gentleman.”
A Good Man Kleine Hamburger Strasse 3, 10115 Berlin/Germany www.agoodman.de Opening: November 2013 Owner: Mark McGuire Employees: 2 Sales area: 30 sqm Men’s brands: Ben Sherman, Blaumann, Brosbi, Dr. Martens, DU4 Shirtmakers, G-Lab, Knowledge Cotton Apparel, Menil, Natural Selection, Tricker’s Accessories brands: Bagagiste, Effio Socks, Enter Bags, Oak Beard Oil
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Splendid Decisions Golden Carrot/Zurich. Never hesitate and seize every opportunity - this motto has always ensured that Cristina Bintintan achieves what she wants. And even while this story develops, she has been offered an opportunity to relocate to larger premises. Text: Dörte Welti. Photos: Dörte Welti, Cristina Bintintan
Cristina Bintintan decided to open her own store approximately two years ago. The self-confessed shoe lover always knew exactly what she wanted to sell: shoes, but not exclusively. Her previous job as an employee of a medical technology company required many business trips. During these trips, she always wondered why there are so few beautiful shoes to be found in Zurich - at least shoes that are beautiful in the eyes of Cristina Bintintan and that fit her size 41 feet. That is quite a sensitive issue. In 2010, Cristina came across a brand named Chie Mihara, run by a vivacious Japanese woman who lives and produces shoes in Spain. The discovery was a real eye opener. The store owner to be became addicted and quickly joined the swelling ranks of Chie Mihara fans around the globe. Countless unusual models soon cluttered her home, which caused her partner to say that one could easily stock a store with them. A little later, she discovered Cydwoq, a hand-made shoe brand from the US, which complemented Chie Mihara perfectly. This is when she agreed with her partner and decided that her goal should be the opening of her own store. Offer the Customers More
It was clear from the outset that it wouldn’t be enough to open a store solely focused on shoes. She needed something different, a special idea and concept. By coincidence, she
got the opportunity to secure a 65 square metre store with a 15 square metre stockroom in Zurich’s trendy Seefeld district. It wasn’t a prime customer frequency location, but nonetheless in a good neighbourhood. The businesswoman from Transylvania started calculating, developed a product range concept, and started buying products at the trade fairs GDS, Micam, and White. Cristina’s speciality is the special, artistic presentation of goods. Examples for this skill are cashmere sculptures and leather architecture, with art exhibitions as customer events. She also likes to invite her customers to special wine tastings, featuring the wines from the smallest vineyard in Tuscany, or for a friendly aperitif. These events either have no particular reason other than communication with customers, or mark the arrival of a new brand. Cristina makes sure that there is some kind of get-together at her store at least once a month. To lower the reluctance of the passing trade, she places inviting bistro-like signs on the pavement in front of the shop. Night shopping was quite popular among the spoiled Zurich shoppers, and a styling show featuring celebrity stylist Martin Dürrenmatt and trendy jewellery designer Susi Prinz attracted a large crowd too. “Every event attracts a different kind of customer”, Cristina Bintintan says. “At every event, the customers can rest assured that they can see, eat, and drink things that are not mass-produced.” The same applies to the shoes. In no time, the management science graduate earned a reputation that enables her to have a say in the product design process of some brands. Other labels even manufacture special models exclusively for her store. One example is a shoe model from a previous season, which nevertheless sold like hot cakes in Zurich. After all, Golden Carrot always knows which way the wind blows. More Space for Men
The interior was designed by Symbiosis and can be utilised in a modular manner.
Then she was offered new premises, which finally enabled her to add products for men to
Cristina Bintintan also offers her customers art, fun, and excellent company.
her range. It was yet another coincidence. A location, in a better position and closer to the city, that Cristina Bintintan had already had her eye on, suddenly became available. The relocation was organised in less than four weeks. The store interior, which is known as “Déshabillée” and was lovingly created by the Como-based designer couple Draga Obradovic and Aurel K. Basedov from Symbiosis, was brought along for the ride too. With a view to cost-consciousness, everything was reused. The aforementioned “Déshabillée” items are also recycled; they are unique items created from old furniture from all eras. Actually, they can also be purchased. Cristina Bintintan focuses on sustainability, highest quality, and small series. She certainly won’t tolerate any mass produced products in her store. This is certainly an excellent breeding ground for future success. Golden Carrot Seefeldstrasse 152, 8008 Zurich/Switzerland www.goldencarrot.ch Opening: October 2013 Owner: Cristina Bintintan Employees: 1 Sales area: 65 sqm Women’s brands: Chie Mihara, Cydwoq, Kron by Kronkron, La Bottega di Lisa, Minna Parikka, Objects in Mirror, Primabase, Shani Bar Men’s brands: Cydwoq, Fracap, Grenson, Primabase Bag and accessories brands: Alchimia, Cydwoq, Draga Obradovic, Hester van Eeghen, Philomijn, Retroprose Lifestyle and jewellery brands: Carla Szabo, Gem Kingdom, Luna Design
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094 IN STORE
Across the Big Pond The online shop Ella + Rubi wants to introduce exciting European brands to the US. The founders Daniela Juhala and Amy Rasmusson Radich lead the way. Text: Martina Müllner. Photos: Ella + Rubi
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Portland, Oregon, is not exactly known as a city that defines trends, leaving aside the fact that it houses the headquarters of sport giants such as Adidas and Nike. Nevertheless, Vienna-born Daniela Juhala and her US business partner, Amy Rasmusson Radich, chose this city for the launch of their online shop Ella + Rubi. The two first names are their “fashion alter egos” and represent the kind of women they would like to dress. “Be uncommon” was the invitation extended to customers in the launch season; the motto was illustrated with life-affirming, joyful lifestyle shots that are aimed at making Ella + Rubi tangible. Even though the online shop’s prototypical females are professional models, Daniela
Juhala and Amy Rasmusson Radich understand that e-commerce needs a face, especially when you have an approach like the two businesswomen. “We want to introduce the US to unknown European brands that embody the typical European style”, Daniela Juhala explains. She brought along a number of brands, which are not yet present in the US, from her European home. Excellent Networking
No sooner was the idea of an own online shop born, the two fashion insiders tapped into their network. Daniela Juhala, until recently a PR manager at George Gina & Lucy, does not only know the European trade show landscape inside out, but
is also familiar with all sorts of agencies and distributors. The contact list of her omnipresent iPhone is full of so-called influencers. Editorial contacts in the US, as well as a network of excellent contacts from Amy Rasmusson Radich’s time in the distribution industry, made the online shop tangible before it was launched. “Naturally, everybody is especially critical of their own baby”, Amy Rasmusson Radich confesses. “It was important to us that everything looks professional from the very first minute. We definitely want to avoid the ‘mummy sends stuff from the garage’ image”, Daniela Juhala adds. The two founders hired the exceptional Eightday agency for the visual implementation and gave Kyle Wiley, the
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The Ella + Rubi ladies strive to be style advisors - they offer seasonally changing mottos that are aimed at encouraging customers to think outside the box in terms of fashion.
Anything but smooth - the art of casual cropped images highlights the casual chic of the product range.
creative head of the agency, free reign. “He pretty much turned our ideas upside down; and that was great”, Daniela Juhala laughs. Seemingly American Style
In terms of buying, the two businesswomen focus on a style that Europeans perceive as American. They like comfy-wear, combined with bold accessories that transform high-end jogging pants and a sweater into a proper outfit. “We were approached and asked where one can buy what we wear on an everyday basis”, Daniela Juhala explains. “One would think that this look was born in the US, but the more elegant variation, which is common and cultivated in Europe, is a real rarity here. They know
sports clothes, but not sportswear with a touch of chic”, Amy Rasmusson Radich adds. This is great news for the two businesswomen, mainly because it does not only enable them to fulfil a dream, but also allows them to slip into a pioneering role. They want their online shop to be a treasure chest in which their customers can always discover something new. By the way, this treasure chest can also be opened offline. Regular customer events in charming locations in Portland accompany the Ella + Rubi concept, as well as trunk shows in New York and LA. It almost goes without saying that this is merely the start of the dynamic duo’s entrepreneurial boldness. “We are open-minded. Whether we support brands who want to
build a distribution network in the US, or promote their stateside communication strategy, we are more than happy to share our network and experience”, Daniela Juhala says.
Ella + Rubi PO Box 593, West Linn, Oregon/USA, www.ellaandrubi.com Owners: Daniela Juhala, Amy Rasmusson Radich Women’s brands: Ella + Rubi, Gwynedds, Shae Accessories brands: Bands of L.A., Chic & Ethnic, Daniel Wellington, George Gina & Lucy, Plomo o Plata, Tyoulip Sisters, T-Kees, Warm-Me
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096 editor'S Letter /// about us
Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at
The Perception Problem
B
erlin after the big break - we experienced a few very good, focused, and labour-intensive days. The mood was much better than one would have expected following this miserable autumn. It seems as if the majority has realised that it is better to face challenges actively than to lament them as fateful. Furthermore, I would like to emphasise that the trade show organisers have done an excellent job. Premium, Panorama, Show & Order, and Seek have found and cemented their respective positioning. The demand of many manufacturers for an alternative platform following the turmoil surrounding Bread & Butter - and its ultimate cancellation - contributed to this development. It was perfectly legitimate to seize the opportunity, and it was indeed seized. Berlin presented itself as an excellent, differentiated location. If we, as an industry, believe that we need what Berlin offers, then we should not only appreciate the location, but also consciously maintain it. After all, it is not only up to the trade show organisers whether the most important European clothing market - the German-speaking market to be precise - has its own, appropriate business and communication platform. We all have responsibilities in that respect. However, every discussion about Berlin as a fashion location 215 style in progress
highlights the massive perception problem that has become so typical for the German fashion and clothing industries. Simply put, there is a general lack of understanding regarding its social, cultural, and - most of all - economic importance. The socalled “German Fashion Design Council”, which was publicly presented for the first time during the Berlin Fashion Week, strives to bring about change in this respect. It was founded on the initiative of Christiane Arp, the editor-in-chief of Vogue, and consists of renowned fashion experts and industry representatives such as Anita Tillmann, Mario Eimuth, and Dirk Schönberger. Their aim is to promote the creative potential within Germany and its relevance as an economic and cultural asset, as well as to reform its public, media, and political perception. At first glance, such a move is to be welcomed without “ifs and buts”. However, this “German Fashion Design Council” also highlights aspects of the underlying problem: the lack of “common touch”. In Germany, fashion is either not perceived at all, or as very superficial and elitist. It is seen an exclusive topic relevant to the cultural upper class. Everything else is regarded as mere clothing, and therefore seen as purely commercial goods for the masses. If one wishes to anchor a new consciousness for fashion and
ultimately (hopefully) effectuate a change in consumer behaviour in our society, one needs to come to terms with the fact that it has become a popular sport to head to Primark to fill countless shopping bags with clothing worth a handful of Euros. One also has to consider the question why more and more consumers perceive the regular retail price as attempted fraud. These obviously aren’t pleasant topics, but they are elementary in respect to overall social awareness. Maybe I’m being a little hasty, especially as the GFDC will only announce its plans in detail in spring. However, I would like to use this forum to express my wish to be brave enough to look beyond the middle-class intellectual elite. It would certainly be beneficial to also look at fields where fashion is not always cool, beautiful, and exciting, but a really comprehensive reflection of our society. Even though that can be a little ugly at times… Yours, Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at P.S.: Berlin will never be Paris. That doesn’t matter at all, as Berlin is already Berlin anyway.
Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott
Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Isabel Faiss Mody Al Khufash Petrina Engelke Thesy Kness-Bastaroli Ina Köhler Kay Alexander Plonka Nicoletta Schaper Quynh Tran Dörte Welti Katharina Wohlfahrt Photographers/Illustrators Maximilian vom Hofe Claudia Meitert Bernhard Musil Peter Schaffrath Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English translations Manfred Thurner Printing sandlerprint&packaging 3671 Marbach, Austria Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach
Next issue 29 June 2015
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