WINTER 12/13 # 2.2012
Innovate or Die! Why Stagnation Is So Dangerous /// She's the Boss! Still the Exception in the Fashion Business /// Growing Up. Sportswear Says Goodbye to the Professional Youth Role /// Trends A/W 2012/2013. Good Is Better Than New
style in progress wo-men’s fashion
9 1 2 0 0 0 4 6 8 0 2 59
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€ 6.90
"Customers Don't Want to Waste their Money Any Longer." Carlo Rivetti
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… NOT ONLY: NEW ROOMS&NEW BRANDS SHOWROOM MÜNCHEN Lodenfrey Park Haus F, Eingang 21, 3. OG Osterwaldstrasse 10 80805 München T +49 (0) 89 97 05 28 . 0 SHOWROOM DÜSSELDORF Kaistraße 2 40221 Düsseldorf T +49 (0) 221 20 95 09 . 0 www.kometundhelden.de Chevignon Togs Unlimited Dr Collectors Muks Purple De Nimes AG Adriano Goldschmied B.D.Baggies Blauer USA Hartford Preventi Volta Woolrich Save Khaki Superdry Riccardo Forconi Gilded Age WornFree photo: peterheck.de
FINEST WITTY KNITWEAR IS AVAILABLE NOW FW12 STARTS AT CPD CPD DÜSSELDORF
MODEWOCHE MÜNCHEN
Adventure Modeagentur GmbH Villa Rheinperle / Kaiserswertherstr. 214 40474 Düsseldorf Fon +49 211 431 04 9
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004 EDITORIAL
Change is Encouraging
Carlo Rivetti celebrates Stone Island's 30th anniversary. Photo: David Sailer
Welcome to these lines... Is sportswear all grown up or is it just the protagonists of sportswear who have got older? This is a question that we not only address in Sonja Ragaller's article (Grown Up Sportswear, page 042), but also in the Longview. Carlo Rivetti (page 036) is not only inseparably associated with the impressive and rich history of Stone Island, but also ranks among this segment's pioneers. And just as pioneers like him paved the way for a look everyone today takes for granted, he's now waving the flag for a new awareness of fashion's values. Many of the main people featured in this issue of style in progress believe that consumers are in search of true values and would prefer to invest in clothing rather than in blind consumption. A welcome change: It's not just established brands that are following this trend, but also the many, exciting "new" ones popping up this season. You can find a selection of these brands in our Selected section, but because a selection can only provide a limited view of what the market has to offer, we advise you to keep your eyes open, stay curious and don't speed past the energy that keeps our branch alive. After all, it's the established things that will help us to survive what's predicted to be a very tough year. But in addition, it's the power that entitles us to give our ranges the noble title of "fashion." Nicoletta Schaper's article Innovate or Die (page 050) proves that you don't have to found a start-up to use innovation as your trump card. She interviewed speakers for selected brands that took the right path. Instead of continuing to do the same old thing, they chose to confront new challenges - for products not self-evident, but for marketing a must. But because the temptations to bet on a new horse are everywhere, our colleague Kay Plonka asked the justified question: Which of the marketing measures touted as so innovative is well and truly effective? (Online Marketing, page 56). The question of whether successful women in the fashion industry can be guided by an ideal from the past, present or future is a topic we addressed with exciting personalities in our roundtable discussion (page 060). A conclusion? It will have to remain open in this case. But one thing's for sure: Fashion women aren't interested in quotas. And when it comes to the topic of quotas, the style in progress editors have one last recommendation: We urge you to increase the amount of information that you supply yourself and your business. After all, only those who make the right decisions, based on enough information and research, will remain exciting and courageous. May reading this provide you with precisely that. We hope you enjoy this issue. Your style in progress Team
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JACKETS
006 CONTENT
036 Carlo Rivetti, "Presidente" of Stone Island, in the Longview.
042 Sportswear has grown up – why casualwear won't get formal any more.
THE LONGVIEW 036 "I Believe in Europe Because I Am Italian" style in progress talks with Carlo Rivetti CONCEPT 042 Adieu Logo – Three Cheers for the Product! Less bling, more ideas: Sportswear has grown up 048 Smart Celebrity Sponsoring Kaiorize is going democratic 050 Innovate or Die! Do it! The revival of traditional brands
050 Sometime new ideas need to come along. Innovations are saving traditional brands.
055 "We're Crazy about Our Products!" What's important for a good product? An interview with Uwe Jürdens from St. Emile 056 Online Marketing Making the Most of It! Ground rules, tools and possibilities
OPINION 060 New Femininity Roundtable discussion – Women at the Helm 066 Is the Complete Look Making a Comeback? Fashion discourse 069 "HTC Grew 30 Per Cent Worldwide" Interview with Andrea Brà of HTC
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WWW.MARC-O-POLO.COM
008 CONTENT
082 Femininity, totally uncomplicated.
090 Close up and poetic: Fashion jewellery.
FASHION & INSPIRATION 070 Trends 12 pages of trends from Pitti Uomo 082 Wilde Nature Fashion with this French je ne sais quoi... 090 Beauty Within Jewellery that's ostentatious and opulent 096 Horse with No Name Intelligent knitwear
LOOK & FEEL 102 Fashion Lobby at Jefferson Hotel Jefferson Hotel, Amsterdam 104 Arches of Amazing Accessories Komplementair Accessoires, Zurich
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096 Knits with an IQ: worth a second look.
106 In a Class of Its Own Herkenrath 1873, DĂźsseldorf 108 Museum to Go 3x1, New York 110 Please Proceed to the Bar Shoebar by Adelsberger, St. Johann
Standards 004 Editorial 014 Shortcuts 024 Selected 112 Editor’s Letter/About Us
BERLIN www. joop.com
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AIMO RICHLY BARENA BLUE OF VESPUCCI BLOCKINDUSTRIE BLUM BP STUDIO CP COMPANY DEPARTMENT 5 E/KOLLINS FALIERO SARTI FINE COLLECTION GMS – 75 GOLD BUNNY GOTI HTC JUCCA LEIGH & LUCA MASNADA NOVEMB3R SAMANTHA SUNG SEMI COUTURE V.SP… WET CEMENT
AUTUMN/WINTER 2012
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SHORTCUTS Rydal – classic design, soft leather, inspired by outdoor shoes.
Elegant steht Vitali Klitschko gut.
Fratelli Rossetti is getting younger and more innovative.
Fratelli Rossetti ITALIAN FOR TOP-NOTCH CRAFTSMANSHIP
Traditional Italian shoe manufacturer Fratelli Rossetti has made it a top priority in 2012 to consistently develop an innovative, contemporary and younger collection for women and men. Ever since the label was founded, all shoes have been finely handcrafted at the company’s headquarters in Milan. When it comes to the finish, the shoemakers allow themselves to take a few experimental liberties. During the current season, for example, they have made their first tinto in capo shoe. This shoe is completely dyed and washed with the sole. The resulting effects make this shoe an extraordinary article. In addition to the new look, the brand is intensifying its collaboration with New York designer George Esquivel. Here’s where American casualness meets Italian craftsmanship. Fratelli Rossetti’s extensive historical archive also provides the inspiration for a small retro series based on models from the '60s. The company has also expanded its Rossetti ONE collection of sports and leisure footwear. www.fratellirossetti.com
Lacoste Footwear ESSENTIAL DESIGN
The new Lacoste Essential Design (LED) autumn/winter 2012 collection is highly exclusive since it’s only available in roughly 20 to 25 stores in Austria and Germany. It combines the essence of the Lacoste brand with classic elements that are deliberately kept simple. Leather, seams and small details reflect great care and dedication. The design team was influenced by the classic styles of Eames, Jacobson, Charlotte Perriand and Le Corbusier. There are a total of four new types of shoes, including the Rydal, which is inspired by outdoor footwear. This is a showpiece for a new design concept in the winter outdoor LED collection, which was presented at the BBB in January. In addition, two new employees, Mario Rusack and Sascha Hoppe, joined the national sales team on 1 January 2012. Both are now in charge of the sales activities in North Rhine-Westphalia and Baden-Wuerttemberg. "With Mario and Sascha we have two experienced gentlemen to help with the further expansion of our national activities," says Stefan Boeing, Sales Director of Lacoste Footwear. www.lacoste.com
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Floris van Bommel THE LABEL’S OWN SALES AND MARKETING FOR GERMANY
Effective immediately, the shoe manufacturer Van Bommel will have its own sales and marketing department for the German market. Joining Commercial Director Pepijn van Bommel, Export Manager Patrick Meijers took up his position on 1 November 2011. He previously worked for well-known brands like Puma and Diesel. Both van Bommel and Meijers see themselves as direct contacts for German customers. “For us it’s a matter of direct marketability, communication, and seamlessly giving customers what they want,” say Meijers. Floris van Bommel will be present at more trade fairs in Germany in 2012. In addition to GDS and Bread & Butter Berlin, the label will also be offered at the premium in Düsseldorf and at the ANWR. www.florisvanbommel.com
Patrick Meijers is the new Export Manager at Floris van Bommel.
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Komet und Helden NEW MAIN SHOWROOM IN LODENFREY PARK
Agentur Komet und Helden have moved to a new showroom in Lodenfrey Park: House F, Entrance 21. The address is Osterwaldstrasse 10, 80805 Munich. The telephone and fax numbers remain unchanged. The press office will remain in the Superdry Showroom. With a space covering 1,100 square metres, the agency will be able to expand its brand presentation starting with the next order season. Each brand’s philosophy will be underlined by its own specific world in the new main showroom. www.kometundhelden.de
Guess is celebrating its 30th anniversary this summer.
Guess TWO REASONS TO CELEBRATE
Agentur Komet und Helden’s new main showroom.
Since October 2011, the Premium Concept Store is located at the fairgrounds at Gleisdreieck.
The American fashion label Guess is expanding its retail presence in Germany: Last November Germany’s second Guess accessories store opened its doors in the Frankfurt suburb of Sulzbach. The latest collections will be offered on 69 square metres of floor space in the Main-Taunus-Zentrum shopping mall. This shop follows on the heels of the opening of Germany’s first Guess footwear and accessories store in August 2011 in Baden-Baden and the Guess flagship store in Düsseldorf, which opened in 2009. This summer Guess is celebrating its 30th birthday, just in time for the Berlin Fashion Week. A big party is planned to mark the occasion. www.guess.com
Schneiders TRADITION MEETS INNOVATION
The traditional Austrian label Schneiders, which stands for high-quality outdoorwear, is striking out in a new direction: “Schneiders goes designer.” Schneiders is working with the avant-garde designer duo Peter Pilotto and Christopher De Vos on the autumn/winter collection 2012/13. They are world famous for their prints and play-of-colour. The collaboration between Schneiders and Peter Pilotto bundles traditional outdoor fashion with creative energy. The Capsule collection will be presented at international fashion trade shows. www.schneiders.com
Schneiders presents a capsule collection by Peter Pilotto.
F 95 BACK TO THE BASE
The premium-run concept store F 95 moved in October 2011 from Friedrichshain to the Gleisdreieck station at Luckenwalder Strasse 5, on the grounds of the premium international fashion trade show. The store is now located in a former post office that served as a venue just last summer for the SEEK fashion show, which will move to a nearby former cold storage warehouse in January. F 95 now has 400 square metres of space to present its usual diverse mixture of fashion, shoes, accessories, interior objects, magazines, fragrances and music. The interior was designed by Heiner Albaum, who used old and new objects to create an intriguing effect that he calls "postmodern disarray." Events such as readings, book signings and exhibitions are planned; the opening was attended by designers like Michael Michalsky and Leyla Piedayesh from Lala Berlin. The concept store was originally opened five years ago at Frankfurter Allee 95, which explains the origin of the name. www.f95store.com
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Post Card ALPINE CHALLENGE
The Peuterey Group – the holding company of the Italian fashion company G&P Net – has been put in charge of design, production, distribution and communication for the Italian snowwear brand Post Card. In addition, the company has secured a three-year purchase option for Post Card. The label has been practically forgotten by the European market, but is very present on the US market and available in department store chains such as Saks Fifth Avenue and Bergdorf Goodman. The label hopes to strengthen its presence on the European market by its placement in Alpine boutiques in international ski resorts throughout Austria and Switzerland. But Russia and Korea are also seen as interesting markets. “Post Card presents us with a new challenge: We want to make use of the brand’s historic success and give it a new lease of life as a luxurious outdoor range for sophisticated and elegant women,” says Francesa Lusini, President of G&P Net. www.peuterey.it, www.postcard.it A shining example: sweater and scarf from FTC Cashmere’s summer collection.
FTC-Cashmere CASHMERE TO DIE FOR
In November 2011 Jutta and Andreas Knezovic of FTC Cashmere in Baar, Switzerland, added another top location to their list of stores: the shopping boulevard in Terminal 1 of Frankfurt Airport. The entire range of womenswear, such as the homewear collection made from premium sustainable raw material, is displayed over an area of 40 square metres. FTC stands for Fair Trade Cashmere. The Knezovices founded the FTC Goat Breeding Farm, which covers 150,000 square metres of land put at their disposal by the Chinese province Shanxi. The farm can hold up to 5,000 goats, 3,000 of which are then bought by Shanxi province and given to poor farmers. FTC improves the farmers’ income by buying the raw materials from them at a slightly higher price than the official trade price. A groundbreaking project. www.cashmereworld.com
Post Card, well-known snowwear brand, is now managed by the Peuterey Group.
Iris von Arnim IS WEARING TROUSERS
For cashmere queen Iris von Arnim, collaborating with MAC is nothing short of a dream come true. Trousers that complement her knitwear, have a perfect fit and are of high quality were a major wish of hers. This project was also a challenge for MAC because they had to meet the high style demands of Iris von Arnim’s exclusively positioned label. The reason behind their collaboration is their mutual wish to transfer the comfort of cashmere to trousers. “Collaborating with Iris von Arnim has opened a realm of new creative possibilities for us,” says Eveline Schönleber, Managing Partner at MAC. The concentrated collection of elegant trousers will be managed exclusively by Agentur Ventrella. www.irisvonarnim.de, www.mac-mode.com Iris von Arnim is now offering an exclusive trouser collection.
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Rosa Cashmere PURE LUXURY
In 2004 Dagmar von Schmaus founded the Rosa collection with cool styles in youthful cuts that gave a brand new meaning to cashmere. The designer recently launched the Herzklopfen (heartbeat) line, a new, very exclusive edition consisting of 20 garments knit from particularly high-grade, undyed cashmere from the first combing. “Herzklopfen targets demanding Herzklopfen, a range of high-grade clients that are only cashmere garments that will make happy with the highest your heart beat faster. quality,” says Dagmar von Schmaus. Accordingly, the prices for a hooded sweater are around 849 euros and for an oversized roll neck around 1,099 euros. The Rosa brand is sold to some 300 customers in the German-speaking market, the Benelux and Asia and includes addresses such as Quartier 206, Maendler and Donna Hannover. www.departmentfashion.com
WWW.LUCKYDELUCA.COM PREMIUM ORDER DÜSSELDORF 4.-7.FEBRUAR 2012 I DIE HINTERHOFAGENTUR PREMIUM ORDER MÜNCHEN 18.-21.FEBRUAR 2012 I DIE HINTERHOFAGENTUR
018 SHORTCUTS
The Twenty-Four Jacket by Club des Sports.
Age Royale DRESSES AS FAR AS THE EYE CAN SEE
The Italian dress label Age Royale was founded in 1970 by designer Davide Cerantola. The autumn/winter collection 2012/13 features clear lines, high-quality fabric and elegant colours: a mixture of casual style and haute couture. Located in the Veneto, the small atelier focuses on sensuality, elegance and wearability. The colours for the season are salmon gold, pearl white, bronze, mahogany brown as well as a variety of grey tones. Carmine and black set strong accents. The dresses are made of high-quality fabrics such as cotton, jersey, elastic rib, heavy silk, velvet and transparent georgette. Accessories – leggings, belts and scarves – play an important role in the autumn/winter collection 2012/13, which will be available from June 2012. Dresses wholesale between 55 and 109 euros, and undergarments, scarves and accessories between 12 and 60 euros. www.ageroyale.com
Club des Sports INSPIRATION LE MANS
At the Pitti Immagine Uomo jacket producer Club des Sports presented a special model named Twenty-Four Jacket. This is a down jacket made of cotton-touch-polyester with leather details. It’s dedicated to the heroes of Le Mans, which is probably the most exhausting car racing in the world. Athletic inspirations are the core of the brand, which is showing a wide range of styles in its autumn/winter-collection 2012/13. Besides the well-known nylon/down jackets, Club des Sports stands out with pea coats, duffle coats and blousons with light down filling. These are the best prerequisites for the international growth Club des Sports is aiming at: The young brand, which is only three years old, is hoping to grow especially in the area of export. www.clubdessports.eu
Lamberto Losani DIRECT DIALOGUE
This summer the cashmere label Lamberto Losani is launching a new internet service with a special area where buyers can reorder and exchange merchandise. “We want to make it possible for our retail partners to engage in a direct dialogue that is uncomplicated for everyone and in this way further expand our service,” says Paola Losani, who is managing the Italian family business in its third generation. The new collection by Losani is characterised by the same strong yet wearable design that has allowed the label to hold its own on the competitive cashmere market. Over the past two years, sales in the German-speaking region have risen by an average of 30 per cent. Innovations include feather-light yet warm turtlenecks and unconventional twinsets with coarsely knitted jackets. For the first time the label is now making dresses by combining silk with knitted sections – to wear in the office and for evening engagements. www.lambertolosani.com
Habsburg HERE’S TO 20 YEARS OF TOP QUALITY AND A LOVE OF DETAIL
Twenty-somethings have a reason to celebrate: The Habsburg fashion label is treating itself to a 20th anniversary collection, as well as a book and a new showroom in Gusswerk, Austria. There been a change in its outer appearance since the younger generation took over: in both the catalogue and the website, which were designed by the renowned Agentur Loop. Habsburg started off by flexing its innovative muscles at the Pitti Immagine Uomo: Together with the Italian designer Andrea Incontri, who has been highly praised by fashion critics like Suzy Menkes, Habsburg has developed a 15-piece loden collection. The urban and modern approach does the material - and the label - justice. The collection is only available at select businesses in Italy for the time being. www.habsburg.co.at
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A strong yet wearable design: the cashmere label Lamberto Losani.
Masao Yamamoto for
www.woolrich.it - shop online woolrich.wpstore.com
020 SHORTCUTS
Do it yourself! Lookbooks from Blurb.
Blurb PRINT WORKS
Thanks to Blurb, the US online self-publishing platform, from now on everyone can produce their own look-book or volume of photographs with the most beautiful pictures of the new collection in professional quality. In 2010 Blurb delivered approximately 1.4 million books to more than 70 countries. Each book can be designed either with the aid of Blurb’s free BookSmart software or with a pdf of any layout program. Of course this also works for notebooks, coffee table books or calendars as a way of creating an exclusive and individually designed promotional gift is created. The book is delivered within a few days after the upload of the print data. The price for one book starts at 2.25 euros and there is no minimum circulation. In addition, Blurb offers the possibility of presenting or selling the book or print product directly online in the book store. The book can be integrated and communicated as an online-preview on facebook. www.blurb.de, www.photographybooknow.com
Firma ONLINE
The Berlin brand Firma opened its online shop in December 2011. “The rapid increase in requests on our homepage is a clear sign that risk-averse retailers around the country can’t meet the demand for more exciting clothes with their current range,” says Carl Tillessen. “That’s why we won’t be offering everyday products in our online shop but will concentrate on the highlights.” The online shop is accessible from Firma’s webpage or from luxodo.com, an exclusive platform for retailers such as Feldenkirchen, Simon&Renoldi and Linea Donna Osnabrück. Firma was not present at Premium this season, but for the first time at its own Berlin showroom above the store at Alte Schönhauser Strasse 11. “In Berlin, people don’t just look, they order a lot too. And we want to make sure the conditions are right.” www.firma.net, www.luxodo.com
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SIYU from Spain is one of Agentur Toepfer’s new discoveries.
Agentur Toepfer NEW, INNOVATIVE, IN LINE WITH THE MARKET
Each season Agentur Toepfer offers something new and surprising such as the brand new Blue of Vespucci line, which the agency is presenting at the premium, in their showroom and at the Tranoi. This line comes from the same house as the French VSP, is a high-fashion collection and consists of 15 pieces. Another one of Toepfer’s new labels is the Spanish SIYU, which scores with femininity, graphic prints as well as exceptional colour combinations. The Barena collection from Veneto offers very special men’s and women’s fashion interpretations, which were inspired by museum pieces, antique markets and pictures from old books. “We see ourselves as a link between manufacturer and final customer; we engage in problem solving and create individual solutions for collections together with the contractors,” says Udo Toepfer. “Moreover, as an agency we know the market and and retailers' competitors in the cities. This is an advantage the manufacturer doesn’t have as a direct seller at a trade show.” www.agentur-toepfer.com
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022 SHORTCUTS
Stones NEW SHOWROOM AT DOUBLEU
In mid-January 2012, the German menswear brand Stones will open a new showroom inside Düsseldorf's doubleU, a nine-hectare complex to the north of Düsseldorf city that was completed in June 2011. On a ground floor space of approximately 350 square metres, the HAKA label will present its entire range, which will include the jacket collection of Roadsign Australia. Striking interior features are the solid, natural wooden tabletops on steel frames, as well as a bar in the centre of the room. And a Wall of Fame will display celebrities who wear Stones, along with up-to-date pictures of the collection. www.stones.eu
Icons is the name of the new collection of the Munich brand Souve.
Fashion by Tommy Hilfiger on the runway.
Tommy Hilfiger RUNWAY COLLECTION FOR WHOLESALERS
From autumn 2012 Ittierre S.p.A. production and sales will be taking over the Tommy Hilfiger Runway Collections for women and men. As part of this agreement, the Runway collections will not only be available in Tommy Hilfiger stores, but also at wholesalers. After the launch in February at the New York Fashion Week, the collections will be sold in Itierre’s showrooms in Europe, North America and Asia. “We are happy that the licence agreement with Ittierre enables us to strengthen our worldwide distribution of sophisticated designer fashion,” says Fred Gehring, CEO of the Tommy Hilfiger Group. Tommy Hilfiger will remain the creative inspiration behind all collections. de.tommy.com
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Souve NEXT STEP ICONS
In 2012 the brains behind the Munich label Souve, known for its canvas shopper bags that bear statements such as “Can’t afford a Birkin,” “Anybody seen my Louboutins?” and “Next Season Key Piece,” will be focussing their attention on XL shopper bags with handles made of vintage leather. The bags are printed with motifs by the Munich photography artist Daniel Voelker. The theme for the bag collection is Icons – trendsetting icons from the worlds of fashion, music and society, such as Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss, Karl Lagerfeld and Keith Richards. The XL shopping bags wholesale at 25 euros and are already available from Helmut Eder in Kitzbühel, Monadico in Zurich and Isy’s in Munich. www.souve.net
www.handstich.de +49 (0) 8152/9931 - 3
handcrafted stuff shoes
jackets
bags
accessories
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SELECTED
Jejia SUPER TASTY
L.K. Berlin NEW BAGS FROM LIEBESKIND
Strictly limited: The handbags from L.K. Berlin, the new brand by Liebeskind Berlin, are only available in limited quantities for existing customers. L.K. Berlin is a premium bag collection made from the finest leather with unusual and cleverly placed details. Hand stitching and cleverly incorporated rivets create eye-catching accents. The emphasis is always on top quality. Founded eight years ago as a bag and shoe label, Liebeskind is presenting at the Fashion Week in Berlin the first articles in the complete womenswear collection: dresses, trousers, jackets and tops that embody Berliner flair. Julian und Johannes Rellecke, two of the managing directors at Liebeskind Berlin, now intend to make inroads into the premium bag sector with L.K. Berlin. L.K. Berlin will debut at Premium Berlin in January 2012. The bags retail for between 400 and 600 euros, with two collections annually. The Liebeskind brand is highly successful, as shown by its 1,500 Customers in 20 countries and monolabel stores in Düsseldorf, Vienna and Munich. I.G. Ideageneration, Munich showroom, 80807 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.32729830, info@ig-ideageneration.de, www.ig-ideageneration.de, www.liebeskind-berlin.com I.G. Ideageneration, Düsseldorf showroom, 40474 Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.20076128, info@ig-ideageneration.de, www.ig-ideageneration.de, www.liebeskind-berlin.com
Designer Anna Marino can drop a name from her CV that opens doors everywhere in her homeland: Diego della Valle. For over twelve years she has been one of his closest advisers when it comes to the style of collections like Fay, Hogan and Tod’s. But she doesn’t need a helping hand for her own collection, which she created as a sideline to her work for della Valle’s brand environment. Hand-knit sweaters, eye-catching new interpretations of a trenchcoat and the tasteful combination of the articles speak for themselves. “A style that’s strikingly independent, super tasty, very special,” says Gaby Ventrella, who, together with her husband, Michele Jejias, has assumed responsibility for sales and marketing in the German-speaking countries. And it goes without saying that a designer like Anna Marino has 100 per cent of her manufacturing done in Italy. Agentur Ventrella, 80807 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.30905380, mode@agentur-ventrella.de, www.agentur-ventrella.de
Baba Lee UNIQUE CARPETS
Orient meets vintage: The Baba Lee label stands for traditional oriental carpets with a used look. The old carpets get a new lease on life in colours like green, pink and purple. They are bleached in Turkey, then washed and treated with dyes until the characteristic look is achieved. This makes every carpet a one-of-a-kind item. European-wide sales and marketing are handled by the Agentur Hoferer, with showrooms in Munich and Düsseldorf. The carpets are available all year round and have rapidly won the hearts of retailers who often use them to decorate sales areas. Depending on the size, wholesale prices range from 500 to 3,500 euros, and the carpets retail for twice that amount. Baba Lee can be purchased from retailers like Apropos in Cologne, and Bailly Diehl in Frankfurt decorates his store with the carpets. The label can also be seen at fairs such as the Premium Berlin. Hoferer Vertriebsagentur GmbH, Munich showroom, 80807 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.327298315, info@agentur-hoferer.de Hoferer Vertriebsagentur GmbH, Düsseldorf showroom, 40474 Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.20076128, info@agentur-hoferer.de, www.agentur-hoferer.de
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www.0039italy.com
026 SELECTED
Semi-Couture TO BE OR NOT TO BE FINISHED
At a market for second-hand goods, Erika Cavallini and her husband Andrea discovered a special old postage stamp bearing a lion. That was the birth of the logo for their label Semi-Couture, which they co-founded in 2009 with K8 S.r.L. in Crevalcore near Bologna, Italy. The idea of being unfinished is the leitmotif of the women’s collection, which conjures up images of 1950 elegance. “We were also inspired by traditional tailoring and fabrics,” explains Erika Cavallini, Semi-Couture designer. The exquisite fabrics, which are produced exclusively in Italy, are as distinctive as the shiny button, the unfinished seam and the carefully selected ribbon that make each item unique. Garments sell at an average retail price of 115 euros with a 2.7 markup. Showroom Semi-Couture, 20129 Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.55199464, milano@semi-couture.it, www.semi-couture.it
Max Volmáry DIAMONDS AND PEARLS
Selve INDIVIDUAL LUXURY SHOE CONCEPT
Anyone wanting to offer their customers shoes with unusual colours, special designs and a sophisticated sizing system should take a closer look at shoe designer Claudia Kieserling’s concept. Selve offers made-to-measure shoes for both men and women. A perfect fit is ensured in two ways: first, with sample shoes that are able to accommodate various foot widths, and second, with 3D scanner technology that enables the boot leg to be tailored to the exact size. Delivery time is three weeks. In addition to welted derby shoes and Chelsea boots, the collection includes pumps, boots and ankle boots, at retail prices ranging from 295 to 585 euros. From pure deerskin to Italian kid or glittering bronze velour leather, the collection’s custom-made products cater to many different needs. Selve, 80331 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.24231800, info@selve.net, www.selve.net
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This collection doesn’t have a lot to do with classic blouses and dresses. Torsten Max Volmary’s company Mill One GmbH, which was founded in 2006 with the brand name Max Volmáry aus Steyerberg, is known for being different. Kimono-style blouses, models with button panels on shoulders and sleeves, tunics with faux fur collars, jackets or garçon shirts – the range consists of almost 70 different models in various colours. “You can only approximately try to explain about our cuts,” says company founder Volmary. “There really is a firework of new prints and appliqués. One brand-new addition to the range is printed woven fabric covered with little aluminium sticks that create a brand-new look!” Since winter 2011, the fixed faux fur collar has become an integral part of the collection, as well as Max Volmáry’s trademark. “The collars really are a best-seller. We’ve expanded our range of furs and are also offering separate collars produced by high-quality French manufacturers. They can be washed as many times as you like without becoming matted,” he explains. The three delivery dates for 2012 are based on the following themes: Spicy in June with the base colours chilli red and gun metal grey, Bohème in July with the colours legion blue and plum and Preppy in August with the colours smoke blue and beige. Wholesale prices range from 50 to 70 euros for blouses with fur collars, 40 to 50 euros for simpler styles and 40 to 90 euros for tunics. There is a markup of 2.8. The brand is already available at hasadeur in Münster, Boehm + Partner in Graz und Insime in Lucerne. It is sold in Europe and North America. More than 50 per cent of its products are exported. The Russian market is undergoing development. Currently, there is a total of around 1,000 customers and 18 agencies. Mill One GmbH, Torsten Max Volmary, 31595 Steyerberg/Germany, T 0049.5764.9630, www.mill-one.eu, orsten.max.volmary@mill-one.eu
www.0039italy.com
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Schott CHARMING ROUGHNESS
Founded in New York in 1913 by Irving Schott, the American label Schott already has a long history. Schott achieved cult status in the ’50s when the brand’s bomber jacket became the favourite among film stars like Marlon Brando and James Dean. Since early 2011, Schott has been handled by two agencies: Panorama Europe and Fashion Factory. The autumn/winter 2012/13 collection is divided into three themes: Vintage Outdoor, Leather Perfecto and Academy. Leather and high-quality fabrics form the core of the collection. Special editions of the Perfecto line by Schott – for women with fur trim as well as in crocodile and Python looks – have been sold since 2010 by leading retailers like Barneys in New York, Selfridges in London and 14oz. in Berlin. Never out of style: The ultimate garment produced by the Schott label is the bomber jacket with a lambskin collar, also known as an aviator jacket. Bomber jackets sell wholesale for between 149 and 280 space euros. Fashion Factory, 40215 Düsseldorf/Germany, T 0049.211.31129901, mg@ffbymg.com, www.ffbymg.com, http://www.schottnyc.com/
Pantherella LUXURIOUS SOCKS MADE IN ENGLAND
Inverni HATS WITH TRADITION
A traditional business, which has over the years gained a great amount of know-how in making hats and caps: Inverni is the name of the Florentine brand that has decided to shake off the dust of tradition. From trendy to elegant, Inverni offers a tremendous variety of looks that live up to highest standards. For a quite few seasons, the brand has been making new friends among Italy’s top retailers. Inverni’s broad range of products makes it easy for retailers to find exactly the right pieces for their shops. Wholesale prices start at 22 and go up to 170 euros for cashmere, alpaca or genuine fur accessories. Inverni has begun working with agencies abroad such as the Austrian fashion distributor free mountain. Says Andreas Schmied from free mountain: “Somehow we have something in common with truffle pigs. They have a good nose for truffles and we have a good nose for new, honest labels which animate the market.” Inverni, 50058 Signa/Italy, T 0039.055.8792402, www.inverni.it
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Over 80 years ago Louis Goldschmidt started making comfortable men’s socks on looms he had designed. Today his Pantherellas with the extra flat hand-sewn toe are still made exclusively in Leicester in the UK. The standard range includes classic socks in plain colours with argyle or stripe patterns alongside successful vintage styles. The collection consists of some 200 standard models and another 100 to 150 seasonal colour variations. Retail prices range from 12 to 70 euros with a markup between 2.6 and 2.8. Men’s socks are available in three variants: short, mid-calf and knee-high. Women’s socks are available in four variants: short ankle socks, ankle socks, knee-highs and over-knees. The socks are made from long-staple Egyptian cotton (fil d’écosse), West Indian Sea Island cotton, superfine Merino lambswool, ultra-soft Tibetan cashmere and fine silk. Pantherella Ltd, Hallaton St, Leicester, LE2 8QY/UK, T 0044.116.2831111, info@pantherella.com, www.pantherella.co.uk
autumn autum winter i t
2012
www.bloom-fashion.com
CPD
03.02.– 05.02.2012
UNITED FASHION Rather Str. 49e, 2.OG, 40476 Düsseldorf
CPH VISION
02.02.– 04.02.2012
Øksnehallen, Halmtorvet 11, 142C
MUNICH FA ASHION 18.02.– 21.02.2012
AGENTUR STECKEL Hirschauer Straße 12, 80538 München
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Iosselliani EXTRAVAGANCE MEETS TRADITION
Paolo Giacomelli and Roberta Paolucci are the duo behind the Italian jewellery brand Iosselliani. Giacomelli designed accessories for famous brands such as Alessandro dell’Aqua, Kenzo and Missoni before deciding in 1997 to found his own jewellery label. Iosselliani enables Giacomelli and Paolucci to articulate their creative ideas using traditional goldsmith techniques. A wide range of materials such as stainless steel, silver, pearls and semi-precious stones are used in opulent necklaces, bracelets and artistically strung rings. Colourful sparkling stars, insects as pendants and rhinestone skulls make this traditionally crafted jewellery collection particularly exciting. The first flagship store R-01-IOS opened in 2005 in Rome. In October 2008 the second Iosselliani store, T-02-IOS, was opened in Tokyo. Iosselliani presents a spring/ summer and an autumn/winter collection every year. The collections are available at stores such as Barney’s Co-op and Liberty as well as from the online shop LuisaViaRoma. Iosselliani, 00182 Rome/Italy, T 0039.06.70306627, info@iosselliani.com, www.iosselliani.com
Purwin & Radczun THE NEW NATURAL
Purwin & Radczun are introducing their first ready-to-wear collection for classic menswear with the autumn/winter 2012/13 collection. Having spent a lot of time studying high-end bespoke tailoring, Martin Purwin and Boris Raczun sought out the fabrics and manufacturers that met their idea of quality and reflected their style. The collection consists of high-quality shirts made by Thomas Mason. The fabrics for single and double-breasted blazers, cord and flannel trousers - with and without pleats, suit waistcoats as well as raglan, double-breasted and Chesterfield coats are usually procured from Vitale Barberis, the iconic Italian fabric manufacturer. Suits in subdued colours are made from fabrics such as bird’s eye, chalk stripe, twist, saxony, serge, grisaglia, foule and twill. The entry level retail price for suits and coats is around 1,200 euros. Trousers retail at around 340 euros and shirts start at 190 euros. Purwin & Radczun, 10963 Berlin/Germany, T 0049.171.2206366, info@purwin-radczun.com, www.purwin-radczun.com
Rivieras BOHEMIAN MEETS VINTAGE
One style is enough to lend diversity to a shoe collection with origins stretching back to the Costa Brava of the ’50s: The Rivieras label offers leisure shoes that still boast the same classic design from back then, with outer material that varies depending on the temperature – cotton canvas for the 10° model, cotton mesh for the 20° model, and mesh for the 30° model. Now the collection has been expanded to include the France model, bearing the colours of the Tricolore, a leather model, a denim model in three colours, the Hot-Rod model in three colour combinations, and the Longchamp model made of cotton rep. Rivieras is a “prime example of how successful a niche product can be during the turbulent times caused by the restructuring of retail, distribution and industry,” believes Mark Grütters, who is responsible for distribution in Germany and Austria. The label caters to both men and women. Wholesale prices range from 26 to 30 euros. The collection includes a summer and winter collection each year, and the basic models can be reordered. Once worn by the golden age dandies on the coast of Spain, Rivieras can now be found at famous stores worldwide, including Colette in Paris, Barneys in New York and Corso Como in Milan. Fabienne Radaody, 93100 Montreuil/France, T 0033.1.41586232, f.radaody@groupejaj.com, www.groupejaj.com, www.rievieras-shoes.com
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three-2-one.com
Meet us at fairs: Modefabriek Amsterdam CIFF Kopenhagen New York MRket Dallas Market Chicago Collective West Coast Trend Show Los Angeles Charlotte, Southern Men´s Market Las Vegas Market CPM Moskau Hot 1 Salzburg Hot 2 Salzburg Fashion Salzburg ÖSFA Salzburg Next Season Poznan Showrooms: Hamburg, Berlin, Düsseldorf, Mönchengladbach, Eschborn, Sindelfi ngen, München Worldwide: FR, CND, USA, NL, DK, SE, CH, NO, BE, AT, PL, RUS, IT, GR, IRL, J
www.alberto-pants.com
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Longo CASHMERE IN EVERY VARIATION IMAGINABLE
In Longo's factory in Vicenza, Italy, cashmere is processed into high-quality garments. All of the women's and men's models are handcrafted: turtle necks and round necks, sweaters in sweatshirt style, as well as chunky and fine knitwear. The founder of the family business can look back on many years of experience in the production of knitwear. This expertise is the foundation the business is built on and that has led to the launch of their own collection. Longo worked with designers to create high-quality eye-catchers based on advanced production techniques and sound knowledge. Cashmere and Cashmerino are knit on hand-guided machines. Almost all of the material the Longo brand uses is procured exclusively from renowned yarn manufacturers Loro Piana and Biagioli. The knitwear is not only available in the colours of the current collection, but also in the 126 other colours of Loro Piana's palette. Longo, Erika Palese, 80799 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.27273414, palese@premiumbrandgroup.de
Vanessa Baroni EYE CATCHING
A fascination for lucite and a soft spot for the '70s and '80s were Vanessa Baroni's motivation to start her own jewellery brand in 2009. Born in Stuttgart, Vanessa discovered her passion for jewellery while following a course in design in Milan. Prior to that, Baroni completed her marketing studies in London and Turin. She gained her first experiences in the fashion sector at Wunderkind, DKNY and Diane von Fürstenberg. Lucite is the main element of all of her collections, which she complements with materials such as silk and leather. She gets her inspiration from travelling as well as from current trends in art and fashion. She launched her first jewellery collection in 2010 during London's Fashion Week and has been exhibiting at Premium and Tranoi in Paris ever since. The brand is available in concept stores in Germany, Belgium, Canada, China, Italy and Japan. The wholesale prices for necklaces, bracelets and earrings range from 23 to 56 euros. Vanessa Baroni, 70771 Stuttgart/Germany, T 0049.0711.7545158, info@vanessabaroni.com, www.vanessabaroni.com
Delle Cose SIMPLE, BEAUTIFUL AND FUNCTIONAL
The leather bags by Italian label Delle Cose find their inspiration in the past. But if you’re thinking of vintage leather, you’re on the wrong track here: Delle Cose is consciously going against the current trend in washed effects. The label uses high-quality leather from renowned tanneries like Guidi that is treated and softened using a traditional tool called the “palmella.” The leather is subsequently oiled and polished with stones and pieces of glass. Delle Cose is constantly coming up with new processing techniques for innovative visual effects. “The quality of the leather should speak for itself,” says Jason Pfyffer from the agency ShoeBizz, which sells and markets Delle Cose in the German-speaking countries, Benelux and Scandinavia. The bags sell wholesale for between 130 and 400 euros. Delle Cose, Jason Pfyffer, 6331 Hünenberg/Switzerland, T 0039.329.7255309, info@onlinebiz.it, www.shoebizz.ch, www.dellecose.com Delle Cose, 20136 Milan/Italy, T 0039.28.3241530, dellecose@dellecose.com, www.dellecose.com
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www.brax.com
showroom d端sseldorf 04. - 06. Feb 2 012
hot 2 20. - 21. Feb 2012
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Glücklich THE HEART IS WHERE THE ALPS ARE
Glücklich – that’s not only the name of Christoph Steiner’s sales and distribution agency in South Tyrol, it’s also the name of a small product range that is based on the adage “Preserve what’s good, discover what’s beautiful.” This is how Glücklich combines the tried and trusted with new trends. The culture of the Alps is inspiration and vision at the same time. The South Tyrolean brand has a soft spot for alpine classics from the past. For example, new fabrics are used to reinterpret cardigans, jankers and coats give them a fresh, new look. The passion for high-quality products with alpine influences is something Glücklich has in common with two of the agency’s other brands, Swamp and Mosaique. These brands offer alpine-style accessories that complement Glücklich’s style perfectly. The whole product range will be presented in Munich at Fashion WoMen from 18 to 21 February 2012 as well as at Tracht & Country in Salzburg from 2 to 4 March 2012. Glücklich, 39100 Bolzano/Italy, T 0039.471.974989, info@gluecklich.it, www.gluecklich.it
B.Belt FUNKY AND CHIC
Ben-Amun WEARABLE ART
The luxury jewellery label Ben-Amun was founded by Isaac Manevitz, who is also the brand's sole designer. The label is named after the designer's eldest son Ben and Tutankhamun, the world-famous pharaoh who once ruled Egypt. Manevitz discovered his passion for exclusive jewellery as a young boy and turned his passion into a profession after obtaining a degree in fine art. Today he creates necklaces, bracelets, pins and earrings. His aim is to design wearable, eye-catching art. He does this by combining unusual materials in his collections such as lucite, pewter, glass and crystal with traditional materials such as gold and silver. All Ben-Amun jewellery is handcrafted in Isaac Manevitz's factory in New York's fashion district. Ben-Amun has made it all the way to the runway – Isaac Manevitz regularly works with designers and provides them with unique accessories. Calvin Klein, Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren are some of the label's fans. Ben-Amun, New York, NY 10018/U.S.A., T 001.212.944.6480, regina@ben-amun.com, www.ben-amun.com
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The label B.Belt evolved from a cooperation between the established belt manufacturer Bazlen in Metzing and the Munich Agentur Hoferer: Years of experience in the field of belt production came together with the knowledge of new trends and developments in the fashion industry. B.Belt was founded in 2008. Within a very short period, the label has managed to gain a good standing. The carefully constructed belts are available in well-known shops such as Stierblut in Munich, Daniels in Cologne and Classico in Hamburg. Retailers are attracted by the NOS-programme. The belts are made out of high-quality leather, which comes from Germany, Spain and Italy. Materials as well as workmanship leave nothing to be desired; the optic is funky and trendy. Typical for B.Belt are soft leather, elaborate braiding, rivets applied by hand, rhinestones, stitching as well as artful metal elements. The wholesale prices range between 18 and 64 euros with a markup of 2.7. B.Belt, Hoferer Vertriebsagentur, 80807 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.327298315, office@b-belt.eu, www.agentur-hoferer.de
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"I Believe in Europe Because I Am Italian." As a visionary in the field of sportswear, a passionate European and an explorer of what's possible, Carlo Rivetti, "Presidente" of Stone Island, has demonstrated extraordinary farsightedness in his decision to concentrate all his energies on the brand. In its 30th anniversary year, he's headed on the road to success. With the energy of a twenty something, the "Dottore" is placing everything on his innovation trump card: in the collection as well as in marketing and strategy. Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: David Sailer
S
tone Island is not first and foremost a fashion brand. It has a lot to do with research and product design. How do you manage to keep producing new ideas? Carlo Rivetti: Most of the people who work
for our company are in the field of product development, research and prototyping. That's our DNA: products that are kings. Today, flexibility and determination are important. When we have an idea, we search around the world for the means to turn it into reality. And since we don't have the production on site, we're not stuck with one specific technology. You're also creating your very own colours in your dye works. Why is that so important to you?
I always say that we have all the colours of the world, because we create them ourselves. We don't just take over the colours from our providers. When it comes to developing a new product, you take your time…
Yes. At times it takes us up to two years and then we are only able to develop a prototype in small quantities. I'm glad my company is 212 style in progress
located in Italy, because Italians still do a lot of manual work. This means, we're able to achieve the result we want. Still, industrial production is quite a challenge. It's not your challenge, since you've outsourced production...
Take the example of the knitwear. About fifteen years ago we realized that one company was producing almost 80 per cent of our knitwear and they were much more efficient than we were because they specialized in knitting. Consequently, they closed their factory and joined us. Now we do research together and they do production. This means that they're already experts when they start producing and so fewer problems come up. This approach increases the quality tremendously and accelerates the production. In the field of knitwear, the technology changes constantly in the form of new techniques and new machines. Usually we develop approximately 150 different prototypes and then we choose, let's say 85 great pieces – still too many for one collection. Then we sit down in a meeting and have to decide which pieces - about 60 - we want to include in the collection. This is
Carlo Rivetti is celebrating the 30th anniversary of Stone Island this year. The original sportswear brand is moving along strongly and decisively.
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Carlo Rivetti's twin passions, research and development, are at the heart of Stone Island. 70 per cent of the workforce are employed in these areas.
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LONGVIEW 039
"I want to be prepared and find contemporary, modern answers to the questions of this time."
very difficult. It actually feels like killing your own children, because you love all of them, but have to decide against some in favour of others. Stone Island has a total of about 100 employees, most of them in product development, textile and finishes research, and prototyping. This is a considerable number, isn't it?
All of our prototypes are built inside the company, in one specifically assigned room. I don't want them to be scattered around. This is due to the fact that a lot of our suppliers have subcontracts and ripping off ideas might become an issue. I want my prototypes to be safe. This is why we run this expensive prototype production on our own site. Furthermore, we manage the organization for our subcontractors, because some of them are small family enterprises. It's a big advantage for us, because we control what they do and thereby know exactly where our garments are in production. We do care a lot about our subcontractors; they're the first ones who receive money, because they're so important to us. Most of our suppliers are based in Italy, but it's getting harder to find capable people here. The new generation doesn't like working with sewing machines. We have a supplier in China, who practices a special technology thermo stitching cotton. We didn't move abroad in order to save money, but because we found the only person who could provide us with that specific technology. We don't believe in outsourcing only on account of the costs. We also have a supplier in Indonesia; the guy who owns the company is Korean. The factory is huge, but he opened a special smaller department to work with us on special products and now produces most of our down jackets. They take the down and cut off the keratin part by hand, individually, and that results in amazing quality. But it's the kind of manual work you couldn't get done in Europe. When you develop something very special, do you care about the price this piece will cost?
Of course I have to keep an eye on the price, because each garment that is produced has to be placed within a certain price range. Another thing that makes Stone Island so special is its vast archives. You store all prototypes, fabrics and colours.
We have an historic archive inside the old part of the building where we keep samples of all past collections, but we also keep samples of all the material bases and subsequent finishes that entered the company, as well as
all the colour recipes from our colour laboratory, more than 40,000 altogether.
case at all. I guess it must have been quite difficult to bear all the comments...
How do you feel about having sold C.P. Company?
Even inside the company, people thought that C.P. was bigger than Stone Island. This was because C.P. had such a carefully designed image and identity. Let me give you an example: We never organized a fashion show for Stone Island, our major business, but C.P. Company had one. As a result, I guess it wasn't surprising that everybody was under the impression that C.P. Company was the bigger brand.
It feels like handing over your daughter to her future husband. And as with all fathers, my deepest wish is to have chosen the right husband. And do you think you did choose the right one?
Yes, I think so. At first, though, it didn't seem as if anybody – inside or outside the company – understood your reasons. Quite the contrary, it caused a lot of rumours in the fashion industry.
Many people were a bit scared when they got the news – especially people inside the company. However, when I look at it now, it made perfect sense, especially for them. I was lucky because I saw the crisis coming and could make all the necessary arrangements in time. Everything happened so quickly. It was like sailing a boat. When you see the wind coming up, you strike the sails and close down everything. You're ready. If you didn't see the tempest coming, you'd be stupid. And, thank God, I was lucky, I don't even know why. Although the situation is still quite tough and tricky, I'm very optimistic these days. I think we need to have faith in Italy and in Europe. We are able to survive this crisis, I know it. The most important thing is not to allow fear to control us. Stone Island has gained new strength and it turns out that you were totally right in your decision to focus only on one company. Who knows what would have happened if you had decided in favour of two?
Of course, you can always ask yourself "what if...?" When I made my decision, I was aware of a severe imbalance. I mean, one company was strong and everything was working very well, and the other part was quite weak and required all of our attention. When one part performs well and the other one doesn't, you put 70 to 80 per cent of your energy into the weaker part. Stone Island actually financed C.P. Company during the past ten years, but from the outside it always seemed as if C.P. Company were the stronger part. Just imagine: In the last year with C.P. Company, we had a total turnover of 49 million euros. In 2011 Stone Island alone made 51 million euros. Few people in our business know about all this in detail, so a there was a lot of talk. Some assumed you had financial problems, which was of course not the
You sold C.P. Company two years ago. In the past two years you've managed to strengthen Stone Island very effectively. How did you do that?
I want our company and clothes to be unique. For instance, a blue jacket is something you can buy almost everywhere, BUT: If you know what makes my blue jacket so special, you'll definitely go for mine. That's what it's all about: standing out in the crowd. I have the feeling that Stone Island is much more a design company than a fashion company anyway. How do you communicate this uniqueness?
The internet provides us with a wide range of possibilities when it comes to interacting with the end user. We have unbelievable things to tell and this direct interaction with our end users is fantastic. The people out there love the videos where we explain how our clothes are produced. Every now and then someone stops me on the street and is really excited about meeting "the guy who runs this company that boils its jackets." Can you believe it? For the first time in my life, I'm being recognized on the street by my customers. That's simply amazing. I once said I wanted to have a global brand, but I didn't mean a brand like McDonald's. I want my brand to have a good reputation and to be known around the world. A few years ago, you could achieve this by organizing fashion shows, but time and the means of communication have changed. To me, the concept of the "fashion show" itself has altered. I think the fashion system is not interesting anymore and is even terrible to some extent. I mean, how can you show clothes that aren't even available in stores until six months later? I think your approach to presenting fashion is really interesting. Natalie Massenet from net-a-porter, a true visionary in fashion, said she believed the shows had to take place when the items shown were available in stores.
I totally agree. My dream is to stage a fashion show in a stadium and show a collection, style in progress 212
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"The most important thing is not to be controlled by fear."
which is available in stores at precisely the same time. The audience should consist of end users - real people. The fashion shows we know are somehow not real; the clothes don't even really exist yet. Fashion companies put a lot of effort into these fashion shows and then the result is just a lot of bored journalists or buyers. The final customer would be happy to see the kind of shows you're talking about and get some inspiration on how to dress.
Or take another example: At Stone Island it takes us approximately half a year to create a new collection, and the company works really hard at it. However, when I present it to my sales staff, I have only two days to explain about 300 pieces; now that seems ridiculous. As a consequence, I've decided to turn the presentation into an emotional experience. In the field of fashion, seasons become more and more blurred – you can buy down jackets in May and in December. Moreover, half of the buyers want the jackets as early as possible whereas the other half want them as late as possible. What do you think of this development and how do you experience it in your shops? When do men buy jackets?
A lot of our customers are tourists, so they would buy jackets anyway. They seize the opportunity. However, I don't understand how Italians can buy jackets when it is still so warm outside. Don't forget, to Italians, jackets mean a lot. It's part of their uniform.
That's true. In the past few years we've started to attract a new generation of customers and have a significant number of younger customers now. They buy different pieces, only small ones, such as baseball caps and T-shirts, but that's still great. It means we're able to create items that young people like to wear. Yet I think that, in general, it's totally wrong to divide customers according to their age. There is this American fashion designer who said we have a "35 forever" generation: young men aspiring to have the status of older men and older men wanting to stay young. I guess that's because men around forty are successful in life and know how to dress. Could it be that younger people admire men in their forties because they think older people are better prepared for the current crisis? The young generation didn't learn how to deal with tough times; they've always had everything they needed in their lives, especially in Italy.
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This could be the case. However, in our business this new development has resulted in growth. In spite of the current crisis, we're growing quite fast, not only because of the new target group we are focussing on, but also because our products suit the time so perfectly. My grandmother used to say: "The more you spend, the less you spend." I think in the near future men will buy less, but at the same time invest in higher quality. I predict this development, because I think people don't want to waste money any longer. Consequently, they won't simply spend money on garments; they'll invest in garments. I always say that the average lifespan of a jacket is 19 years. If the jacket survives what we do to it, then the final customer won't be able to kill it either. (laughs) Actually, we even boil our jackets to get the right look. The high quality is a huge opportunity for us in these days. We have a selection of highly qualified craftsmen. People work for us many years; we don't want to become a huge enterprise with a vast number of employees. We can't compete in our costs, so we have to compete in quality and in research. Our region is known for its producers of luxury cars and in 2011 they had their best performance ever, which is unbelievable when you think of the fact that the economy in general is going downhill. Yet, Ferrari recently sold the highest number of cars ever. So I think that if you do things in the right way, the final customer still will find the money to buy expensive products. The customer's attitude in general has changed. What's so surprising about your growth is that you're achieving this in good old Europe and with your multibrand customers – not like others who just open a lot of stores.
I'm of the opinion that in these days, as a retailer, you must be a professional to the core in order to survive. Of course, our growth in Europe makes us really proud. The countries which are important to us are mainly European countries, Italy, Germany, Benelux and England. Moreover, I'm proud that our total revenue in these countries has increased. I think that this is a very safe growth because, for instance, in Germany, Austria and Switzerland, we managed it by implementing our very own structure. What we want to convey to our customers is that we care about them. Therefore, we're also involved in doing small things, such as sponsoring the EHC MĂźnchen ice hockey team or the Polar Bar, the outdoor bar at the Bayerischer Hof
hotel in Munich. Moreover, my son, who is the Merchandising Manager, and I travel a lot in order to show our presence. During a selling campaign I come to Munich twice. I appreciate speaking to all the retailers and I do care about their feedback. I explain everything to them, but also like to invite them to events such as the Oktoberfest. I love these countries: German, Austria and Switzerland. We don't speak the same language, but we have many things in common and we all are Europeans. You really do believe in Europe, don't you?
Yes, I do believe in Europe, because I'm Italian. I simply have to believe in Europe. I hope Italy will become even more European in the future. I really like our new government now. I strongly believe in our new Prime Minister Monti, I think he's the most "German" Italian in our country. And you believe in change as an opportunity, am I right?
Yes, and I'm very proud of the changes we've carried out. Our company is changing nearly everything at the moment: the organization, the advertising and so on. We've invested a lot of time and thought in this reorganization and it's really important to me to do things in the right way. I tend to think of my clothing as a symphony with my company taking the role of the orchestra. By now my orchestra is playing almost perfectly, and even the triangle guy has got the hang of it. Instead of a single designer, we now have a whole design team. Our company has been turned upside down, not because someone forced us to, but because I want to be prepared and find contemporary, modern answers to the questions of this time. I'm happy, because we've done a great job. It was hard of course, but it was definitely worth it. Thank you for talking to us.
Stone Island was founded in 1982 under the C.P. Company label, but soon developed its own identity. In 1993 Carlo Rivetti took over the labels founded by Massimo Osti under the umbrella of Sportswear Company. Rivetti decided to sell C.P. Company in 2010. Stone Island describes itself as a design, not a fashion brand. Passion for research and the resulting new production and dying techniques form the core of the men's and children's collections, which are distributed worldwide. www.stoneisland.com
"Since we can't compete here in Europe with Far East production in terms of price, our ace in the hole is quality and research."
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Casual outdoor jackets trimmed with fur, chinos,sweats and polos: modern urban customers like it relaxed. Experts say that really formal wear won't be back – for the office or for recreation.
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Adieu Logo – Three Cheers for the Product! Embroidered crocodiles and horses are no longer the ultimate selling points. Changing consumer needs and the latest fashion trends from Europe have shaken up the market and sparked rapid growth. Text: Sonja Ragaller. Photos: Brands. Illustration: Blagovesta_Bakardjieva
S
econd-quarter sales at Tommy Hilfiger rose by more than 30 per cent. Polo Ralph Lauren grew by 32 per cent in the first quarter. Gant improved its results by 16 per cent in 2010, and the outdoor division of the VF Group, with brands like Napapijri and The North Face, jumped by 23 per cent in the first half of 2011 – to name just a few of the current growth figures in the industry. The sportswear segment is booming across all consumer segments and genres, from Scotch&Soda in the young fashion sector to high-priced outdoor jackets by Woolrich and other top-quality labels. The market has long since begun to branch out beyond the ever-present American classics and polo shirts. Countless patches and flashy logos only work for Camp David – and that's only because German pop star Dieter Bohlen proudly displays them. The premium sportswear segment is increasingly relying on more subtle variations and cleaner styles and, in the wake of the latest chino hype, is waiting for the next denim wave.
Less Is More. But not much less: "Instead
of eight patches there are now only four," scoffs Christian Adelsberger, Procurement
Director for men's outerwear at Kastner & Öhler in Graz. Despite demonstrations of a dressier look at the shows, the masses are not likely to give up quickly their reliance on chinos, polos, sweatshirts and outdoor jackets. "We still believe in it. This trend is now irreversible," says Matthias Schwarte. Adelsberger also agrees. "This is a huge trend that is growing from season to season. It's not about to get really formal again. The sportswear wave may be getting cleaner, but customers who wear Camp David won't suddenly start buying Jil Sander." Brands like Polo, Hilfiger, Marc O'Polo, Scotch&Soda, Aeronautica Militare, Lacoste, Napapirji, Gaastra and Boss Orange are still the sales mainstays in Graz. Even Bankers Wear Polo. There are va-
rious opinions about exactly when the extreme transition away from formalwear and toward casualwear began. Designer Dirk Bikkembergs' name is mentioned just as often as the rise of polo label La Martina. Fashionable ideas and brands from Europe like Scotch&Soda, Superdry and Napapirji have stirred up the market, which has long been dominated by US brands. But most industry observers see the true origins of this
evolution in the changing needs of consumers. "Formalism is out," says Helmfried Strupat, Managing Director at Better Rich: "Practically no one these days still has to wear a suit and tie." It's all about comfort and feeling at ease, not only at work but also during leisure activities. "It's rather the 45"The general trend is toward clean, less vintage and used styles." Andreas Baumgärtner, Marc O'Polo
year-olds who have changed, not so much the young guys" says Schwarte, who sells and distributes brands like Parajumpers and Armani Jeans. "Sportswear has always had its raison d'être, but its status has changed. Even men who have it made in life no longer want to wear conventional attire." Sportswear has become acceptable." Everything is allowed. The internet and globalisation make everything more open and less formal," says Beatrix Heitland, whose portfolio includes Belgian sportswear label R95th and River Woods. Not Just American Style. For a long time,
this need for casual clothing was met by US brands like Tommy Hilfiger and Polo Ralph Lauren, with their roots in the all-American style in progress 212
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It's found its place: fashion that was based on need, but is so much more than that.
style. "Brands from the USA have a certain DNA," says Andreas Baumgärtner, COO at Marc O'Polo and responsible for design, licensing and production: "They perfectly reflect that East Coast feeling in presentation and brand experience." The American flag, traditional sporting activities like polo and yachting, and showy logos became trademarks.Then the market was rocked by emerging European brands, which set out to redefine sportswear."The new trends come from Europe, primarily from the Netherlands and Italy," says Reinhard Haas of the Austrian fashion agency ACO, which sells the sportswear brand Tortuga: "Of course US brands still play a role, primarily because they're represented nationwide by their own retail outlets, but fashion doesn't come from America." Products Outshine Logos. When he says fashion, Haas is referring to more figurehugging cuts and product innovations. Enzyme-washed polos, soft fabrics and embellishments reflect attention to detail. The "Customers who wear Camp David won't suddenly start buying Jil Sander." Christian Adelsberger, Kastner & Öhler
Dutch label Scotch & Soda, which is named regularly in this context, has continuously worked to improve its products and priceperformance ratio. Italian brands are also perceived as the driving forces for innovation. "Italy's efforts provide a yardstick for 212 style in progress
gauging the pressure generated by the surplus of sportswear brands. The Italians are currently working extremely hard," says Michael Bailly, owner of Bailly Diehl. On the lookout for new labels during the "These days sportswear is divided into rugged styles and more fashionable looks." Michael Bailly, Bailly Diehl
spring/summer 2012 order season, Bailly found most of what he was looking for in Milan. Nowadays high-quality products with high functionality come as a standard. The line continues to blur between outdoor and urban fashion. Many years ago, Bailly searched for and found an exciting mixture of sports and fashion that he calls urban-business sportswear. This became a niche for his growing retail network, which now includes 13 branches in the Rhine-Main region: "These days sportswear is divided into rugged styles, which come from the world of sports, and more fashionable looks that radiate lightness, casualness and, for women, also femininity. There's also a lot of mixing between these two extremes." There are countless brands in this huge segment, from commercial to high-priced. They have one thing in common: The logos are no longer the ultimate selling point – although that doesn't mean that they stand in the way of brand promotion. The success of Hilfiger, Polo, Gant, Gaastra, etc. speaks for itself. However, there are other factors involved as well:
The traditional American brands have continuously developed – and they are extremely present on the market thanks to an extensive distribution network and their own retail chains. "Hilfiger is an excellent example of this. If you consider that the Hilfiger's eyecatching logo was only worn by black basketball players, at least in the US, then this is an even stronger indication that the brand has evolved in an extremely positive direction," says Heitland. The retail sector also confirms that US brands are moving in the right direction. "Polo and Hilfiger are performing for us at very high levels. They've changed significantly and offer not only "It’s a mixture of name, product and value for money." Andrea Cané, Woolrich
great polos but also excellent trousers. They are enjoying very fashionable sales," says Adelsberger. Without innovation and the right look, traditional brands would only be half as successful today. "It's a mixture of name, product and value for money," says Woolrich boss Andrea Cané, "even though value for money is becoming increasingly important for end consumers." Opportunity for the Newcomers. Henrik
Soller, owner of the distribution agency Komet und Helden, with brands like Woolrich, Superdry and Hartford in its portfolio, differentiates between product-driven and brand-driven labels: "When it comes to brand-driven labels, the focus is more on
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Pitti Uomo, Europe's leading fashion fair for men, used to be dominated by ready-made clothing. Now sophisticated sportswear has taken over top spot.
lifestyle and presentation. But they also have to be in step with the times and exude a certain level of class. There are too many specialists on the market for them to compete with." Those who don't have the name have to work even harder on their quality and look. Then they also have a chance. "Consumers are better informed than ever before. They know what to look for in terms of quality and workmanship. They want something new – something different: a wealth of ideas "The brand is only secondary these days." Helmfried Strupat, Better Rich
and details at a good price," says Dietmar Krause, who is the German distributor for Aeronautica Militare and Canterbury of New Zealand. "The brand is only secondary these days," agrees Strupat from Better Rich: "It's all about the overall look, about quality and value for money. The merchandise has to offer something, from high-quality zippers to fancy buttons." The Risk of Over-Distribution. The retail sector is relatively open-minded when it comes to new brands. At least owner-run multi-label stores are doing their best to stand out from the crowd with innovative products. Since many sportswear brands often launch highly visible campaigns, there is a narrow line between nationwide sales and over-distribution. "It's crucial to develop a unique profile. If a brand is sold at
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six locations in a city, then things get pretty difficult," says Bailly. Bailly Diehl achieves 40 per cent of its sales with its own brand. The owner sees this as proof that success is possible if the product is right and can't be found everywhere. High minimum orders for big traditional brands also increase the chances for newcomers. "Many smaller retailers are no longer prepared – or able – to go along with that," says Heitland: "Primarily retailers in smaller cities have to take a more individual approach and they need their own signature concepts." Smaller brands are trying to take advantage of this opportunity. They are each developing their own authentic stories, aimed at underscoring the brand's originality and uniqueness. Parachute jumpers from Alaska, for example, provided the inspiration for Parajumpers designer Massimo Rossetti. Polo teams are behind brands like La Martina and Etiqueta Negra. Canterbury of New Zealand is inspired by the game of rugby. "Consumers are better informed than ever before. They want something new – something different." Dietmar Krause, Agentur Krause
"An authentic story is fundamental," says Schwarte: "Of course everybody has five jackets in their closet, and doesn't necessarily need a new one. Particularly in the highquality sportswear sector, the idea is to create emotional moments that ultimately lead to a purchase."
The emotional moment of Camp David is Dieter Bohlen's testimonial, which is yet another example of how marketing can "Even brand-driven labels have to be in step with the times and exude a certain level of class." Henrik Soller, Komet und Helden
work. Nevertheless, many industry observers are convinced that the hype surrounding flashy styles and countless patches and prints can't continue forever. "There are trends and developments that remain sports-oriented. But the general trend is toward clean, less vintage and used styles," says Baumgärtner: "The upcoming season with Marc O'Polo will be cleaner, with more blazers, trench coats and coats, which still feature many details and materials from the sportswear segment." So the brands continue to hone their new interpretations of the look. The casual, unconstructed sports jacket will again play a greater role, as will the British dandy style with tweed materials, duffle coats and new coat cuts. Quite a few insiders believe that in the wake of the chino euphoria, the next jeans wave is about to roll over the industry. "Blazers, casual jackets and cool jeans. We've been looking for them for quite some time now, and the look is finally here," says Bailly. Anything but stiff and conventional – a style between sports and fashion – outdoor and city: semi-city! That's yet another style to dominate the industry over the coming seasons.
powderhornworld.com Contacts: Germany Chris Sports Europe Lilienthalalle 40 D – 80939 München info@chrissports.eu Phone: +49 89 321 95 571 Showroom Austria Gerry Wingert Brandboxx Salzburg S&F / 2. OG / B 28 Moosfeldstrasse 1 A – 5101 Berheim / Salzburg Phone: +43 664 225 3377 Switzerland Chris Sports Systems Murgtalstrasse 18 CH – 9542 Münchwilen chrissports@chrissports.ch Phone: +41 71 969 66 66
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Smart Celebrity Sponsoring Kaiorize | The startup company Kaiorize has democratised celebrity sponsoring with a simple idea that is shaking up the marketing world. Text: Sonja Ragaller. Photos: Kaiorize
"I come from the PR sector and I've worked for big brands in America, so I know from experience how hard it is to reach celebrities and create authentic images." Henner Ceynowa, Kaiorize
T
he success of flashy sportswear brand Camp David has once again shown how effective prominent testimonials can be when marketing lifestyle products. Sales figures regularly soar when pop star Dieter Bohlen wears the embroidered and patched shirts on his show "Das Supertalent." But what about brands that don't have incredible connections and a huge sponsoring budget? How do they reach the superstars? The startup company Kaiorize offers an online celebrity lounge that makes it easy to gain access to celebrities. At big events like the Berlinale, brands can buy their way into celebrity lounges and offer their products to the stars. But this leads to a number of problems: The celebrities are under time pressure. They don't feel like meeting with PR people. They don't want to damage their image – and they never wear the selected products. This is where Kaiorize does things differently. The internet portal created by Henner Ceynowa, Shamsey Oloko and Philippe Bahlburg gives brands direct access to actors, singers and football players. Registered companies decide which celebrities fit the brand's image. The stars chosen are entitled to order a certain amount of products per month for free.
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The Concept Is Simple and (Still) Unrivalled. When the celebrities have decided
on a product and the pictures of themselves to be used by the endorsing company as a reference, this triggers a 100-dollar donation to one of ten charity projects. A commission is then paid based on the celebrity's popularity and the company's annual sales. The photo is then available to the company for unlimited use on social media platforms, in the press, in newsletters, etc. "Since it's possible to select celebrities individually," says Ceynowa, "the advertising is highly targeted. What's more, the celebrities have access to the products 24/7." The products include everything from fashion brands and consumer electronics to hotels and restaurants that upload vouchers. The same principle applies to music videos and TV series. For example, when a company like Universal Music puts a project online, brands can decide with a click of a mouse whether they want to make their products available for the production. Another optional Kaiorize service: The company also manages invitations for fashion shows and other events. Approximately 200 labels and 160 celebrities already use the internet service provider. Til Schweiger's ex-wife Dana Schweiger has invested in the
business, as have Rudolf Wöhrl and his son Christian Greiner through the company Intro Retail & Media GmbH. Going International. German celebrities
aren't the only ones who love the idea. Thanks to its partner agencies WME, ICM and UTA in L.A., Kaiorize has been able to extend its network across the Big Pond. Additional features are planned for 2012, but Kaiorize is not yet prepared to release the details. What's clear, though, is that the three founders are planning to launch a road show to advertise their platform and demonstrate the value of celebrity product placement – all to be re-enforced by a scientific study that is currently being conducted. The results of this study won't surprise PR experts – nor will the success of this smart startup.
Kaiorize n Internet platform for celebrity sponsoring n Founded in 2010 by Henner Ceynowa, Shamsey Oloko and Philippe Bahlburg n Stakeholders: Dana Schweiger, Intro Retail & Media GmbH n 160 celebrities, 200 brands n www.kaiorize.com
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Creativity and new ideas guarantee survival, but not without risk-taking and the ability to reinvent (yourself).
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Innovate or Die! Traditional brands such as Dior, MCM and Longchamp are prime examples of successful revivals. Complacency doesn't get anyone anywhere as mediumend companies have come to understand. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Brands
T
he need to change was not born of financial necessity: Meyer Hosen AG was a healthy company with a good men's trousers collection and loyal retail partners. "I thought we could do more," says Michael Meyer, Member of the Board of Directors, who took over the company from his father in 2004 and steered it in a totally different direction with the new young label MMX.
The Second Generation. For him launching MMX in the summer of last year wasn't a foolhardy experiment but a deliberate business decision to secure the company's future because young customers weren't really interested in Meyer's trousers. He took all the time he needed to prepare. "We put together a team of five employees, looked for the right niche and spoke with a lot of retailers before embarking on our project." The time was right: The company was profitable, had the right expertise and
owned a factory in Romania that had received its Fairtrade certification in 2007. "Made in Europe is gaining popularity," he says. "Young people look for information about things they're interested in, they chat on Facebook, ask where products come from and how they're made." In response to this new awareness, the MMX and Ökotex brands are made of certified fabrics from Italy and Germany. In addition, MMX is backed by the company's expertise and also has the familiar comfortable Meyer fit thanks to the stretch fabrics and the coneshaped circular waistband. Special details, such as buttons made from real horn and the signature Swarowski rivet in the slit give the trousers their distinctive look. "The lining has to be special too," he says. New Start – With a New Name. Carl
Gross has also added a new collection to his current brand. Carl Gross, serious and established, is strong in business wear for men style in progress 212
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lines are decided separately so the collections don't flood the shops at the same time and affect each other's sales. Schimon knows that CG-Club of Gents is on the right track because it's also found the right niche. "There was a big gap in the market for stylish jackets that are keepers and we filled it successfully."
Torsten Poschardt, Managing Director Sales and Design at René Lezard: "It's vital to be exciting and innovative."
between 30 and 50. But a younger target group was needed to secure the company's future. A more stylish line that would also appeal to young professionals was introduced: Carl Gross Trends. "At some stage we had to admit that it would be difficult to remain credible with one brand for two groups of buyers," says Andreas Schimon, Product Manager of CG-Club of Gents. In 2003 the company decided to launch an independent collection called CG, which was renamed CG-Club of Gents in 2011 and consists of youthful, slim cuts and stylish accents such as colourful lining, contrasting corduroy undercollars and sporty leather patches for jackets. The details make a big difference – and arouse emotions. The challenge for CG-Club of Gents consisted of creating its own brand image without having to give up the expertise and resources. But the brands had to be split. A year ago each product range received its own product manager. The next steps for the Carl Gross team will be to separate the design and marketing activities even more. "It's not going to happen overnight but gradually at an ongoing process," says Schimon. Only the patternmaking department for CG-Club of Gents will be fully independent from the start, just like it was for the MMX trouser collection. "We recreated every pattern from scratch, which is always better than working from existing ones," says Meyer. "There's no point making a garment if the fit isn't right." The success of MMX has proven to him that he's on the right track: "We sold over 3,000 pairs of trousers in the first preseason with very little effort. Most of the trousers went to Italy, which shows we got the style right." The situation is similar for CG-Club of Gents; the collection has a sales share of 33 per cent and a profit margin for 2011 that is slightly higher than 20 per cent. "Both of the collections are recognized in
More Than Just Socks. The competition for Burlington's menswear was steep from the beginning; the segment for premium sportswear already boasts some pretty big players. But when Falke Group took over Burlington four years ago, it had other things in mind than just socks. "We have a
cious," he says. "You have to make sure you don’t lose touch with it, and that requires constantly reinterpreting it and innovating." It also requires a vision and keeping your feet on the ground. "It would be hard for us to build up the competence needed to create a complete look," says Buckley. The brand has shirts and trousers alongside knitwear and jersey, but the focus is clearly on knitwear. "We talk openly about what fits the brand," he explains. "A lot of trends don't fit. It's an ongoing learning process." And it's one that retailers are acknowledging: Today, Burlington's menswear is sold in over 200 stores in Germany and 350 stores around the world. "We're building the brand gradually; it's important that we stay focused," he says. Risky Business. Building
up a complete collection is not something Eveline Schönleber, Managing Partner at Mac, would ever think of doing. She believes in doing what you're good at, and within that boundary, being daring and innovative, which is exactly what she's doing with Mac trousers. "Today people want products that make a statement," she says. "Retailers appreciate special things, and we've been benefiting from that." Mac achieved double-digit profits last year just with their trousers, and not by opening new stores like some other brands. "We sell deeper and more to our current customers," says Schönleber. It's a matter of listening to the retailers' wishes. Mac has some 60 select customers who have a say in the design, shop-in-shop fitting and special offers. They also provide important input that enables the brand to stay close to the market. This goes for the latest innovation, Dreamjeans,
James Buckley, Head of Design Falke and Burlington and Managing Director of Falke Fashion: "We want to turn Burlington into a lifestyle brand."
heritage and we want to use it," says James Buckley, Head of Design at Falke and Burlington and Managing Director of Falke Fashion. He wants to establish Burlington as a lifestyle brand. The men's collection is built on the heritage of the famous argyle pattern that Burlington has made its own. Add a touch of irony and a dash of dandy, both wearable, and you have a new style for the core target group between 30 and 50. Re-establishing a menswear collection may have been a brave step, but Burlington had the advantage of Falke's core competence as knitters. Up to 70 Andreas Schimon, Product people work for Falke Manager of CG-Club of Gents: "It's Fashion and Burlingdifficult to appeal to two groups of ton, and new ideas can buyers with one brand." be tried out in the whose highly company's own knitting room. "That's why elastic material it's so important that our designers are here, guarantees that on site, close to the development process," the wearers will says Buckley. "We have a lot of possibilities also look one to here, a luxury that not every designer has two sizes smalwhen putting toler. At 99 euros gether a collection." Eveline Schönleber, Managing Dreamjeans sells In-house developPartner at Mac: "We develop our far above the average retail price of 69 euros ments start with the products with love and passion, and yet they already make up 10 per cent of material, such as and that's clearly visible." the pre-order volume. "Content and quality lambswool, which is are important, the price is secondary," says typical of a traditional English brand and is their own right," Schönleber. For her, design and cut are the specially treated to lose its prickliness. says Schimon. most important parts of the company: Eight "We're very good at innovative develop"Customers like designers and product managers are responments like this," he continues. But in spite Breuninger and sible for the design and 20 employees just of all of this creativity, Burlington is keen P&C probably for the fit. "The trousers have to be an imon staying true to itself. It's the only way wouldn't have mediate and perfect fit," she says. She also that menswear made by a brand so closely bought our knows that you have to stick your neck out associated with socks can be credible. "The younger line under the Carl Gross name. every once in a while if you want a brand to brand thrives on its heritage, which is preThe order dates for customers buying both 212 style in progress
14.-16.03.2012 d端sseldorf, germany www.gds-online.com
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Messe D端sseldorf GmbH Postfach 10 10 06 40001 D端sseldorf Germany Tel. + 49 (0)2 11/45 60-01 Fax + 49 (0)2 11/45 60-6 68 www.messe-duesseldorf.de
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Innovation is as important as an independent fashion profile: Here from MMX (left), Burlington and Mac Mode.
remain attractive. At the last trade fairs for this year, Mac put on an impressive solo performance in the old cold store near premium. A lot of visitors enjoyed the show and the clear message, which even shed a
crisis and the womenswear collection whose image didn't entirely fit the core of the brand," explains Torsten Poschardt, Managing Director Sales and Design. With its previous focus on ready-made clothing, the brand had to reinvent itself so it didn't slip into Michael Meyer, Member of the oblivion in an era dominaBoard of Directors of Meyer ted by sportswear. Today Hosen AG: "We don't want to customers of all ages are create a tacky brand that promises more than it can keep." more keen on mixing and matching than they are new light on on traditional complete looks. To get René Mac for some. Lezard back on track, the product had to "It was a milebe extensively improved. It's now less austere, stone for us," more feminine and garments with subtle says Schönleber. style differences can be mixed and matched "We proved that in line with the current trend. This new we're not only specialists but that we're instrength bears the signature of the designer novative too." duo Bettina Melzig-Reindl and Hedwig Bouley. "Both women's feminine touch is Back on Track. René Lezard is also doing the hallmark of the collection and we're well, which wasn't always the case. "We had busy expanding on it," says Poschardt. The a rough three years because of the financial size of the collection was reduced by 30 per 212 style in progress
cent to make the message even more compelling and exciting and to be able to spend more time on individual garments. The sales knowledge that flows into the development of the collection is just as important to him as the fit on which the designers at René Lezard spend so much time. "It takes a lot of meetings to deal with the fits of different models," he explains. "Our fashion aims at making women of all sizes beautiful." Not to forget, the focus is on the fabrics, which René Lezard procures exclusively from Italy, and the designs developed in house. According to Poschardt, "We want our fashion to be durable and lasting. And you can only achieve that by using high-quality fabrics." The difficult times are now over thanks to the effort that was put into the product; the brand has been seeing double-digit growth since last year. "Monotony and repetition kill a collection," as he well knows. "But no matter how courageous you are, striking the right balance is the real key to success. Being bold also means knowing what to keep."
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Innovate or Die!
"We're Crazy about Our Products!" St.Emile | Elegance, femininity, innovation - that's what St.Emile stands for. In the interview, owner Uwe Jürdens explains how important it is for a good product to stick to its roadmap. Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: St.Emile
Special in look and feel: fashion by St.Emile.
Uwe Jürdens, Managing Partner of St.Emile: "A brand has to be credible; we invested a lot of time, money and passion in achieving that."
I
nnovate or die – Is that a crossroads where St.Emile has been before?
Three years ago the product took an unusual direction. The independence, the sensitivity, that certain "je ne sais quoi" and the desirability were missing.
What did you change?
We made a change at the management level and I'm now running the company again. I was lucky to have Ms Hellmuth and Ms Weingarten, two people with the St.Emile gene. Ms Hellmuth worked out the brand's DNA and has been responsible for its distinctive look ever since. Ms Weingarten guarantees that the products always meet the high quality standards and always have a perfect fit. What basic requirements does the product have to meet?
Our design stands for subtle femininity with a perfect fit, cute details and a high level of craftsmanship. We love fabrics that are nice
to touch, which is why we put a lot of effort into the development of new materials, equipment and designs. We're crazy about our products and are a really close-knit team. We all speak the same lingo, which makes us fast decision-makers. Have your retail partners rewarded you for your efforts?
They have indeed, and we felt it throughout the entire development process. We're getting positive reviews again. A lot of specialist retailers who left us years ago because they were disenchanted have come back. Our continuous efforts are paying off. Important too is that we're self-critical and talk to our retail partners. Expectations have risen. What about the prices? Have they risen, too?
We expanded the high-end segment with qualities such as lambskin, leather and cashmere. The rising prices for the raw materials were a big challenge, especially because our
prices for the individual collection segments are transparent. Today St.Emile is at the top in terms of quality; the number of complaints is hardly worth mentioning. Being in this position helps us with the price discovery process and enables us to keep the base prices that are so important to retailers. But whatever we do, we have to make sure we don't miss out on the emotional aspect! A brand has to be authentic and credible; we invested a lot of time, money and passion in achieving that. Without the people in our St.Emile family, we wouldn't be where we are today. Thank you for talking to us.
The company was founded in 1924 in Kleinwallstadt, Germany. The St.Emile collection was founded in 1979 and gave rise in the mid-90s to the trendy, high-quality women's collection. www.st-emile.de
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Online Marketing Making the Most of It The world of the internet offers more than just a constant stream of new marketing tools – it also provides an opportunity to engage in an ongoing dialogue with the target group. There are a wide range of possibilities, but success only awaits those who consistently respect the ground rules. Text: Kay Alexander Plonka.
S
ince its fashion show comeback in 2009, Burberry has outdone itself from year to year with each online marketing campaign. First, there was the live transmission of its show on the internet, followed the next year by the 3-D presentation from New York with a direct link between the runway looks and the online shop. The rising expectations of the fans have to be met. Dedicated YouTube channels and links to the shows and social media platforms have become standard digital features. German fashion designer Michael Michalsky also staged his StyleNite as a big event last summer. In addition to 1,500 guests on location, over 17,000 online viewers followed the live fashion show action in Berlin's Tempodrom. The livestream was available on a variety of sites, including bild.de, stylebook.de, faz.net, and berlin.de. "I'm absolutely delighted with the huge interest and the number of viewers on the internet," says Michalsky. Nevertheless, iPhone and iPad apps represent new territory for many brands. The App Store offers fashion icons like Guess, Gucci and Louis Vuitton. They use their apps to present collections and campaign photos along with films, history highlights and store finders. Since 2010 the Drykorn brand has used an app that not only makes lookbooks available
but also shows the content of the Facebook page. "Until now, we've seen the app as more of a project. But in the future we intend to move from this static app to a fluid one, or at least a website optimised for mobile devices so we can offer all current homepage and webshop content," says Drykorn owner Marco Götz. Victoria's Secret has one of the most elaborate apps on the market. It features an online store for virtually all of the company's products. There are a wide range of films of runway shows as well as reports on fittings and castings, "the making-of" TV commercials, video portrayals of the "Angels" along with news and events from the world of the lingerie brand and its licensed products. Quality over Quantity. Since apps and social networks require new ways of visualising the messages, there is an increasing demand for specialists in this area. Founded in July 2011 in Berlin, profashional films specialises in fashion and producing a winning presentation for customers like Condé Nast Digital (vogue.de) and Marc O'Polo With a creative combination of direction and styling, Managing Directors Birgit Eipper, Rebecca Rupcic and Siegfried Nümann create high-quality films that combine skill and a passion for filmmaking with a flair for fashion and extensive knowledge of the industry. They
work in cooperation with Ziggy Mediahouse in Munich, which has had years of experience making promotional films for premium customers. "With fashion films it's important to perfectly reflect the label's image and to convey the right mood," says Eipper, who works as a fashion journalist and director. "Whether it has a narrative or abstract character, the visual production and the right selection of music are extremely important. When it comes to films of fashion collections, the perfect aesthetic presentation of the look is paramount; virals and campaign videos can also work well with image films to tell a story in which the clothing only plays a subtle role." Rupcic, who does fashion consulting and worked for five years as fashion journalist and stylist on the staff of the German version of Vogue magazine, as well as for Visionaire, V Magazine and the French version of Vogue, illustrates the new standards in fashion films: "German brands unfortunately still see film as an 'add-on' medium. This means that they merely add an extra camera to the regular lookbook shootings. But the results don't compare with an independently produced film. In other countries film has established itself as an independent medium for presentating new collections and conveying the essence of a brand's image. You can style in progress 212
058 CONCEPT
"Germany is still in its infancy when it comes to top-quality film productions. But standards are improving – both in terms of quantity and quality." Rebecca Rupcic, Managing Director profashional films
see how effective this is on the internet: There are monthly rankings of the best fashion films. These are posted on blogs, sent to other fans, and on Facebook there are networks dedicated to posting fashion films. But nobody wants to see 'the making-of' anymore, that's old hat. In other countries the labels hire leading fashion photographers and directors to make highly elaborate productions – and the results are of course fantastic."
relevant to the target group and promote a continuous dialogue," says Karkalis. A great example is lingerie specialist Palmers, which had its Facebook fans create the slogan for its campaign in autumn 2011. The top three suggestions received a nice little piece of jewellery. This not only allowed Palmers to save the cost of an advertising copywriter, but also ensures that the new slogan enjoys the acceptance of the company's most loyal friends.
Feedback Is Crucial. It's no wonder that large numbers of fans track brands with high-quality content. Burberry, for instance, has 9 million friends on Facebook. But the numbers alone are not the deciding factor, as André Karkalis from the Karkalis PR agency explains: "In their desire to measure the success of social media initiatives, some site operators rate their Facebook page according to the number of fans. But this is not the most meaningful measurement of success on Facebook. The decisive factor is the intensity of the fans' website use, in other words, their level of involvement. Now they've added a tab that provides exactly this information and can be viewed by everyone. It's located directly under the number of fans and is called 'alking About This.' Only when fans talk about a brand, when they click the 'Like' button and comment on posts, will they continue to receive updates on that brand. Those who don't eventually won't see the posts anymore because Facebook has taken them off the list using an algorithm called EdgeRank."
Viral Gone Amok. For some people all this social networking may be exciting infotainment on their favourite topics, but for others it serves as a guideline in real life. Especially when it comes to young target groups, it's important not to underestimate the viral impact of Facebook invitations, as illustrated by the example of the Weekday Store in Berlin.
Dialogue, Not Monologue. It's important
to know how much effort goes into activities on platforms like Facebook. "Social media activities are a pledge to customers. No matter what channel I use for communication, this can't be a one-way street used only for advertising purposes. The content has to be 212 style in progress
In late October there was a tumultuous rush on the shop in Friedrichstrasse when it held a vintage sale. On Facebook alone, over 2,000 individuals had announced their intention to participate in the event, which had been announced on countless blogs. This was nothing unusual, at least at first. Unfortunately, there was a misinterpretation and the fans thought that all merchandise groups were available for prices ranging from one to eight euros – and not just the racks with a limited number of vintage articles. Since the sale took place on a Sunday afternoon, it attracted hundreds of teenagers and young adults, who continuously pushed their way into the store. Videos on YouTube show how the situation escalated and the police had to clear the blocked entranceway to allow the crowd to exit the store. The completely tattered store had to close early. Merchandise and even pieces of furniture were reportedly looted. On the Facebook page of Weekday, frustrated fans vented their anger over the situation, the poor organisation and the lack of security measures – also in films, photos and comments on blogs. News of the events immediately made the headlines in online media and even on tabloid TV channels. It remains to be seen whether this promotion was the latest form of guerrilla marketing or simply a digital communications glitch. What's clear is that bad news spreads, all on its own, just as rapidly as good news.
"Social media can be cost-efficient – but it's never free." André Karkalis, Managing Director Karkalis PR
out now! www.ucm-verlag.at/app iPad_Sip_XR_212.indd 1
19.01.12 14:52
060 OPINION
New Femininity There are still too few women at the helm of leading companies in the fashion industry. In the style in progress roundtable discussion, successful businesswomen talk about why the glass ceiling continues to exist. Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: Yorick Carroux
M
artina Müllner, Editor-in-Chief, style in progress: In an industry
that is highly women-oriented, it still seems that women with high potential often manage to reach mid-management positions, but making it to the top is just as rare as in other sectors. Why is it that men still assume the majority of decision-making roles?
Maria-Chiara Teza, owner of the PR agency Think. Inc: I don't have this im-
pression. It may be that women are generally not as strongly represented in the business world, but they definitely are in the fashion industry. Ulli Ehrlich, Managing Director Sportalm:
This impression is spot on. But isn't it the same in many other professions? In my opinion, the problem is that salaried women are unable to balance the demands of a family and a career. Kristin Deutelmoser, GDS Director: I agree with you there, although this of course comes from age-old role models. What's more, men's networks are often firmly entrenched among corporate executives and they're happy in their old boys' clubs. But these differences would eventually disappear if it weren't for the added difficulties of juggling a family and a career. It's a combination of external factors and women's own desire for a traditional family. Moreover, you have to be willing to leave a safe position and take risks. Some women like to keep things as they are and struggle with that feeling. Constanze Kappler, owner Agentur Kappler: I see this issue as a German pro-
blem. In German-speaking countries there isn't enough support. Up to the midmanagement level, many women ask themselves whether it's really worthwhile to push ahead with their careers when childcare costs take such a big chunk out of their paycheques. Especially in our field there is a demand for very flexible working hours and that's why more support is definitely necessary. That's not to say that we haven't made progress – after all, we're one of the few countries in the world with a woman head of government. Maria-Chiara Teza: I don't have any children, but I see that many of my staff have to come 212 style in progress
to terms with these issues. When a PR consultant has to attend a fashion fair, but also has to pay a babysitter, she's at a financial disadvantage. Ulli Ehrlich: Having a family is definitely a big hurdle. Women occupy nearly all positions in our company. But our women in management positions have no children. And as soon as a child is born, it gets pretty tough. Kirstin Deutelmoser: It's definitely difficult, but even if we had childcare networks such as in Scandinavia and France, we'd only see lasting change if women could put aside their guilty consciences. Mothers believe they have to be there for their children 24 hours a day, or they're not good people. Denise Tennie, HFT Consulting: That's certainly not something merely dictated from above; it's also a product of these women's perfectionism. Maria-Chiara Teza: Changing that is certainly easier said than done. We women are capable of multitasking, which helps us on a daily basis, but we feel guilty when we're not able to be everywhere at the same time. Martina Mü llner: Constanze, this wouldn't be an issue for your women business partners in the US, would it? Constanze Kappler: At least I'm under the impression that the children/career issue doesn't play nearly the role that it does here. Martina Mü llner: Maria-Chiara, how do we compare with Italy? Maria-Chiara Teza: I'm too seldom in Italy to assess the current situation. But Italy definitely has a big problem with ü ber-mothers and ü ber-fathers. Italian children are not used to acting independently. Treating people like little kids makes them lazy. Martina Mü llner: As women without children it's easy for us to talk – but as a mother of four boys ages seven, eight, ten and twelve, Ulli Ehrlich probably sees things differently, right? Ulli Ehrlich: It can be pretty tiring. Maria-Chiara Teza: But it doesn't look like you're overwhelmed. Ulli Ehrlich: I don't want to be seen as a role model. There's a major difference between being an employee or an entrepreneur like me. Logistically it remains a big challenge and I have to rely on a fragile combination of
childcare, au pair, grandparents and parentsin-law. If I'm needed during the day, I can also work during the evening. I can be there for my children at decisive moments and never have the feeling that I'm missing something. That doesn't work, however, if you're an employee. Constanze Kappler: That's the fine art of time management. Whether or not you have children, it's important to take time for yourself and your family. Ulli Ehrlich: Which is fine as long as nothing goes wrong. Maria-Chiara Teza: And if something unexpected happens, a woman can deal with it – a man can't. We always see the solution to the problem. That's the big difference. Denise Tennie: We're more pragmatic and capable of improvising. Martina Mü llner: Would one of us say that she consciously decided against having children to avoid jeopardising her career? Maria-Chiara Teza: Never. If I knew how three children could be compatible with my career, I'd be immediately willing to start a family. The job has to adapt to me, not the other way around. I call the shots, otherwise I would have taken an entirely different course. Martina Mü llner: We have this privilege because we're not in a regular employee position. What's it like in a company like Messe Dü sseldorf? Kirstin Deutelmoser: I'm an employee and, although we enjoy a certain amount of leeway, there are things, like when we clock in, that are strictly regulated. Since we employ a lot of women, we make an effort to be family-friendly. Especially in the trade fair sector there are constantly situations like working on weekends where work has to take priority. Although I sometimes wish it were different, our structures don't allow us to say: let's finish that this evening. Denise Tennie: Doesn't Messe Du ̈ sseldorf have a day care centre? Kirstin Deutelmoser: Yes. But it becomes really difficult with school and holidays that coincide with peak periods in the trade fair business. If you don't have a family support network, things get complicated. Martina Mü llner: How do we women make decisions as employers? Do we hire the 36-
OPINION 061
Modesty is a typically female characteristic. By contrast, men broadcast everything they do – because they think that what they do is so important. When women are successful, they play it down with statements like "it wasn't so difficult after all." Ulli Ehrlich, Managing Director Sportalm Kitzbühel
year-old with the ticking biological clock? Constanze Kappler: If she's right for the job, why not? Ulli Ehrlich: I know from working at other companies that they think long and hard before they hire a woman in her 30s. Maria-Chiara Teza: Constanze is right, but I also have to answer to my customers if there are frequent changes in personnel. When women return from maternity leave, there's a lot of understanding, but things still don't always go smoothly. In an agency with a staff of 15, I can't afford to have a woman employee who's there for three days and then absent again, or who can never work evenings or attend a trade fair. Ulli Ehrlich: Kirstin mentioned earlier that men have better networks. That's because they all go out for a beer after work. The women go home to their husbands and children and cook. How are they supposed to develop a sense of solidarity? Martina Mü llner: To put it bluntly: is women's solidarity working at all? Constanze Kappler: Attempts to actively
network with women often fail because they lack a certain easy-going attitude, whereas men who play golf together naturally forge networks. Denise Tennie: Isn't it generally less common for women to talk openly about career and management issues? Kirstin Deutelmoser: My experience is that men at work are networking while doing their jobs. It seems as if it's more natural to them. Constanze Kappler: Maybe women deal with this topic in a more discreet way. Still, I don't at all see these issues as being taboo. Maria-Chiara Teza: During a dinner with my family I once said: I don't do anything serious, I don't save lives. My father responded: You pay 20 people's salaries on time – that's a bit like saving lives. Ulli Ehrlich: Modesty is a typically female characteristic. By contrast, men broadcast everything they do – because they think that what they do is so important. When women are successful, they play it down with statements like "it wasn’t so difficult after all."
Kirstin Deutelmoser: Women seek harmony and avoid conflicts. Men usually clearly say what's wrong. That's why I communicate as directly as they do and I'm very successful at it. Men especially appreciate an open discussion. Maria-Chiara Teza: I run an agency with a man and he gives relatively little thought to what customers might think, while I worry about everything. But precisely this contrast is extremely important. Constanze Kappler: It's not easy to always be brutally honest when you're dissatisfied with something. At the beginning, I only had female staff members. Discussions that revolved around criticism were extremely delicate. When I then had male staff members for the first time, I noticed how well they dealt with criticism. Maria-Chiara Teza: We introduced an open feedback session aimed at airing everything so everyone would feel better afterwards. But it didn't go as smoothly as we'd hoped. The first open discussions were difficult, but they're important for our teamwork. And as
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062 OPINION
I know a lot of men who wouldn't be interested in a job without a big salary. That's a strict attitude that women don't have. Kirstin Deutelmoser, GDS Director
the boss I'm responsible for ensuring that conflicts are resolved – even if this means putting in extra hours at work. Martina Mü llner: This is a difficult decision for many women. I've seen so many women who would be perfectly suited for management positions, but who can't drop the want ing-to-have-friends-at-the-workplace attitude. And there's no doubt about it: If you take on a management position, you won't have any more friends at the company for at least a year. Kirstin Deutelmoser: It really depends on the corporate culture. The trade fair sector is very hierarchical, and I'm sure that this deters many women from taking the next step up the career ladder – the knowledge that you'll be excluded from your former group of colleagues. Martina Mü llner: Despite the obligation to provide equal opportunities for everyone, don't you still have to take into account customer preferences when filling positions? Denise Tennie: Occasionally a man or a 212 style in progress
woman is preferred. We try to deal with it in a certain way, but usually such wishes are rare. Martina Mü llner: Are there companies or situations where women aren't even taken into consideration? Denise Tennie: There are some cases like that and you could well ask what happens if it's the other way around concerning gender. If something like this happens, the wish to fill a vacancy with a person of a certain gender is based on company experience, and most surely not because someone wants to discriminate. Constanze Kappler: There are apparently women who'd rather have a male boss. Many have a hard time accepting a woman instead of a man. Maria-Chiara Teza: Women in management positions often run into the following trap: People always believe that we're more understanding, softer, more easily influenced. But I'm running a company, not a charity. My management style has changed considerably
over the past ten years. I used to try to make everyone happy, but that's not possible. Martina Mü llner: Let's talk about the discrepancies in role models, which are always presented differently if they have to do with women. A portrait of a manager in a magazine has a great black-and-white shot showing his chiselled features, and I might also see his car, but that's it. The women – take Coco Chanel or Tory Burch – have to shine in many more roles: perfect interior design, perfect hair styling, perfect figure, perfect marriage and perfect children. Maria-Chiara Teza: But we all know that these women are being perfectly packaged, even if they aren't perfect. There are ordinary people like me behind the façades. Ulli Ehrlich: But that's ridiculous, isn't it? That a woman's appearance is so important and a man's has no importance whatsoever. Martina Mü llner: I love being a woman and I love dressing femininely, even for business meetings, because I find it absurd these days to have to think about how short or long a
OPINION 063
I think it's increasingly accepted that women can pursue a successful career without denying their feminine identity. Constanze Kappler, owner Agentur Kappler
skirt can be. But of course there are critics who say that women get too dressed up, and there are men who interpret a smile and a personal comment during a business lunchas some kind of come-on. Sometimes it's quite a balancing act – not so much for us, though, because we know precisely where to set our boundaries. But women who don't hide behind some kind of trouser-suit armour still run the risk of being pigeonholed in the "we-know-exactly-how-she-got-her job category." As a result, the styling sometimes has to be toned down a bit, right? Kirstin Deutelmoser: I would in fact dress differently for a supervisory board meeting than I would for an everyday meeting or a press conference. Constanze Kappler: If a dress code has been prescribed, fine. But nowadays precise guidelines are rare. You should dress to fit the occasion, but still maintain your own style. I'd never wear clothes that didn't match my style. Maria-Chiara Teza: If you don't dress
according to your own style, you lose your authenticity. We're armed with feminine charm, why shouldn't we use it? Martina Mü llner: If we didn't share this attitude, we wouldn't be in the fashion business. Are there dress code guidelines for job applicants? Denise Tennie: Only if someone specifically asks, otherwise not. We give them a helpful hint: Wear something that you feel comfortable in. You should of course dress to fit the company. It makes a big difference whether it's a young fashion label or a traditional women's outerwear firm. Martina Mü llner: Do we sometimes miss the simplicity of the '80s and '90s, when it was enough to wear a blazer with shoulder pads or a Jil Sander suit to qualify as a power woman? Ulli Ehrlich: No, I think we all love today's freedom. Especially as Creative Director, I'm extremely happy that all these standards have been cast aside. But not everyone is happy about the lack of dress codes. In fact,
some women also feel unsure of themselves because they suddenly have to think about what they should wear for every single occasion. Martina Mü llner: Nevertheless, we don't see any more uniforms looming on the fashion horizon? Ulli Ehrlich: No, I'm for individuality. Martina Mü llner: What kind of future would you like to see for your children and what changes would you like to see in store for them? Ulli Ehrlich: I'm extremely concerned about my four sons' future because it seems to me that the whole world revolves around one question: How can we bring women to power? It begins in school: There are programs to promote girls in the natural sciences and in technology... and boys are supposed to play with dolls, though that doesn't interest them. They have to test each other's strength and sometimes get in fights. But they're not allowed to do that without people jumping to the conclusion that they're aggressive or have ADHD. style in progress 212
064 OPINION
There are only women in PR. If I want a man and invite job applicants, at the end of the day I have two women again. That's what happens when you decide according to competence. I know that I would have to pay a man with the same qualifications more money. Or he would work less. Maria-Chiara Teza, owner of the PR agency Think. Inc
Martina Mü llner: When I was looking for
participants to take part in this roundtable discussion, I was turned down by women who run fantastic agencies because they didn't want to stand in the limelight. And to be totally honest, Constanze, you're an exception. There are many incredible women in agencies, but it's usually the amazing owners' wives who ensure that everything works the way the men have promised. Kirstin Deutelmoser: We've come a long way, but we haven't quite made it yet. There's often discrimination on a daily basis. Constanze Kappler: I'm the owner of an agency and I make no bones about it. Of course management isn't always easy, but that's life. Martina Müllner: When it comes to women's independence, are we currently in a good or a bad phase? Constanze Kappler: I think it's increasingly accepted that women can pursue a successful career without denying their feminine identity. But perhaps this relaxed approach is just a 212 style in progress
phenomenon that is typical of our industry. Martina Mü llner: Has the battle been won when personnel consultants are again allowed to specifically ask for a woman or a man and aren't compelled to balance the genders? It should be perfectly natural to say that you want a man or a woman for a position, right? Denise Tennie: It should be completely legitimate to want a man or a woman for a position if the team, the company, the setting and/or the situation requires it. But I don't believe that we'll ever get back to the point where we're allowed to communicate the wish for a certain gender. Of course we have to respect what applies in a particular situation. Martina Mü llner: That would be a new kind of coolness, wouldn't it? We want to retain certain differences. Maria-Chiara Teza: We're different and that's how we want it. Men and women both have their qualities and shouldn't always be compared. Constanze Kappler: Perhaps women should
simply show even more self-assuredness. This is the way I am. So what? Martina Mü llner: And that's one of the key reasons why we don't make it to the very top. Because we're not interested in boasting and bragging. Denise Tennie: This border doesn't necessarily exist between the sexes, but in some cases has to do with the job specifications. For a certain job I need certain character traits, which qualify me for a promotion. I notice this when we have to fill procurement positions. Purchasers have to be very tough and have an entirely different mentality than a designer for instance. They come with character traits that make them successful in certain positions where others would fail. Martina Mü llner: It's not a problem to find women for management positions in marketing, communications and design. It's more of a problem in controlling, finances, etc. Kirstin Deutelmoser: Is this because women's interests tend to go in this direction or is there really a glass ceiling? This is a fundamental question.
OPINION 065
It should be completely legitimate to want a man or a woman for a position if the team, the company, the setting and/or the situation requires it. But I don't believe that we'll ever get back to the point where we're allowed to communicate the wish for a certain gender. Denise Tennie, HFT Consulting
Martina Mü llner: To borrow Ulli Ehrlich's
words, if I may, I'm more concerned about the relationship between men and women. For a man it goes without saying that someone else takes responsibility for the household and the children when he – as is necessary in our sector – has to dedicate countless weekends and evenings to his job; a woman has to organise that alone. Constanze Kappler: But do we want a house husband? Martina Mü llner: I don't think so. Maria-Chiara Teza: Unless it has to do with car maintenance and repair. The difference between men and women becomes very clear here. In a garage I often have the feeling that I'm not taken seriously because I'm a woman. Martina Mü llner: But no one questions our authority concerning shoes, right? Kirstin Deutelmoser: That's where we have inborn expertise. Martina Mü llner: Does that also mean there wouldn't be a male managing director at GDS?
Kirstin Deutelmoser: GDS had male project directors for a long time because trade fair positions were traditionally always taken by men. But when everything stopped going so smoothly, the decision was made to find someone with experience in fashion – regardless of whether it was a man or a woman. These days you usually end up meeting mostly women in this industry anyway. Maria-Chiara Teza: There are only women in PR. If I want a man and invite job applicants, at the end of the day I have two women again. That's what happens when you decide according to competence. I know that I'd have to pay a man with the same qualifications more money. Or he'd work less. Kirstin Deutelmoser: We have fixed salary structures and I'd definitely have more difficulties finding a man who would do this work with as much enthusiasm as a woman. Martina Mü llner: Women have entirely different arguments when it comes to salary negotiations. They're often willing to earn 500 euros less a month in exchange for a good atmosphere.
Constanze Kappler: I agree. Women care more about finding a fulfilling job they can identify with. Of course, the salary plays a role too, but it's more secondary. Kirstin Deutelmoser: I know a lot of men who wouldn't be interested in a job without a big salary. That's a strict attitude that women don't have. Denise Tennie: Unless they're purchasers. Maria-Chiara Teza: I make no distinctions between my staff members. So I won't hire a man whose performance seems only middling, but he still has high demands. I'd rather pay a woman more money. I don't make compromises. I value competence. Constanze Kappler: Women in our field possess a high level of competence. Moreover, compared to men, they have a special attribute: female intuition. Martina Mü llner: You also find better qualified women in lower positions. Kirstin Deutelmoser: Which is good from an employer's perspective, but isn't positive in a general sense.
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Chic and smart looks are again dominating the fashion runways, but how do things look on the ground in the fashion stores? We asked a number of top retailers.
OPINION 067
Is the Complete Look Making a Comeback? FASHION-DISCOURSE | The vintage trend has dominated the fashion scene for quite some time now, but a wide array of chic styles and outstanding ready-to-wear clothing with a perfect fit can once again be seen on international fashion runways. Is a complete look celebrating a comeback here? Are trouser suits and business suits back in style again – and are they harder to sell than individual articles? Text: Nicoletta Schaper. Photos: Participants
Styling Advice Needed Laurence Antiglio, owner of Vestibule, Zurich
ur goal is to allow fashion and creativity to enter into the business world. For instance, "O our product range includes trouser suits from the US brand Boy Band of Outsiders, whose creations are preppy yet fashionable. We also have suits by Theyskens' Theory, ChloĂŠ and
Laurence Antiglio founded her store Vestibule six years ago in Zurich and has established it as a magnet for innovative designer fashion, including creations from Marc by Marc Jacobs, Forte Forte, Alexander Wang and Phillip Lim. In August 2010 the store moved from Spiegelgasse to a larger location in St. Peterstrasse.
Phillip Lim, which constantly redefine classic styles with a touch of irony. Our customers don't want a complete look for everyday wear, but instead prefer to put together an outfit. People come to us for style advice, which is precisely the area of expertise that allows us to stand out from the crowd! Depending on how fashion-conscious the customer is, it's our job to make innovative suggestions. Doing the research for this is my passion! To thoroughly prepare my team to serve as fashion consultants, I summarise my impressions of the fashion weeks, and we talk about this during trend meetings. Over time we've also built up a clientele, which doesn't focus on the label but on the fashion. As a rule, you're more likely to see the really dressy, hautecouture look on the catwalks and in the press. This has ensured that there is a demand for a cleaner style with less layering, more precisely defined cuts and more solid materials. The influence of streetwear remains, but it has acquired more sporty lines, as shown by Alexander Wang, who uses technical fabrics and neon colours, which are also making a comeback."
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068 OPINION
The Sporty Look Is Still Gaining Ground Holger Grabmeister, Oberpollinger, Munich
t will probably take a while before the look becomes genuinely dressier. After all, the sporty "I casual look is still gaining ground and the smart business look is only required in certain sectors. That's why women customers are looking for something special to upgrade their existing
Holger Grabmeister is the Managing Director of Munich's Oberpollinger department store, with 33,000 square metres of sales area on seven floors. The store's range of luxury brands includes Louis Vuitton, Prada und Gucci along with Burberry, Boss, Hugo, Strenesse and Armani.
wardrobe. This could be a blazer, a blouse or a shirt. The customer decides how she wants to combine these looks: for example, one day the destroyed jeans with a white blouse, the next day a silk dress, then onto chinos and a blazer. The looks have to be versatile – not just for one occasion. The main focus is on fit, particularly with blazers and trousers. Today's women are more fashion open, informed and younger at heart, at least when it comes to fashion and appearance; they focus more intensively on their bodies. Going to the gym, the beautician or the plastic surgeon is just as much an everyday activity as researching trends and news. Since today's women customers are better informed via the internet, Facebook and newsletters, this places greater demands on our sales personnel. Our staff receive internal and external product training, and we organise internal fashion shows with the latest trends. This information is the key to not losing customers to the internet. It's only thanks to our staff that we manage to maintain the loyalty of these customers with all their needs and desires. Indeed, there's nothing better than feeling that we've made a customer happy when she visits us and makes purchases in our store. And that's our service pledge."
The Trick Is Finding the Right Combination Petra Fischer, Managing Director Modehaus Fischer
omen who buy Armani and Gucci in our store still prefer a complete look from one "W designer. But other customers – for example, women who are looking for something for their job at a bank – have never lost their interest in the complete look, and they represent a fairly
Petra Fischer is the General Manager of Modehaus Fischer with six stores in Singen and Constance, which she runs together with her husband Oliver Fischer. The mother of three children is responsible for womenswear at the main Fischer store in Singen with brands like Céline, Gucci and Marni, and younger fashion concepts in Constance with brands like Marni Edition, Odeeh, Schumacher and Moncler.
large proportion of our clientele. So we ran into something of a problem when ready-to-wear manufacturers started offering fewer and fewer complete outfits during to the vintage wave! We now have updated business suits and blazers from Tagliatore and Strenesse in our selection, with a professional look and, thanks to stretch fabric blends, a comfortable fit. The faded look is basically on the way out. Consequently, we've noticed in our younger, sportier womenswear store in Constance that the styles are becoming dressier again, for example, with a jersey blazer by Odeeh combined with pinstripe trousers and a feminine printed silk top. Individual garments are as important as ever, as is expert styling advice. The trick is to put together outfits that even a younger woman can afford – if she selects the Céline bag, and then perhaps a sweater from Allude and Chelsea boots from Strategia. We enjoy selling fashions and our business is all about getting our customers excited about new trends. We'd like to give them the feeling that they've treated themselves to something that often lasts longer than just one season. Things will get more difficult again in the spring, when there's an increasing demand for festive wedding and communion dresses. There are plenty of beautiful dresses, but it's not easy to find matching jackets. Such combinations are rarely offered by one label, so as a buyer I have to select from a number of suppliers to put together something that fits."
It Has To Be Something Special Karin Neuhold, Sterngasse 4, Vienna
he look is becoming significantly dressier and traditional. In our shop this trend is reflected "T for instance in knee-length, extremely figure-hugging dresses that are enjoying brisk sales. Customers want the current upscale look, which is characterised by a perfect fit and high-quality
Karin Neuhold is the owner of the Viennese trend stores Sterngasse 4 and Sternlite, and Stern 2006 in Kitzbühel, featuring brands like Stella McCartney, Marc Jacobs, Philip Lim, Isabel Marant and Tory Burch. Last September, Neuhold, who has a PhD in law, established the online shopping portal sterngasse4.com.
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materials. By contrast, vintage has become virtually irrelevant for us. We still provide intensive sales service, however, because people need advice on switching to this new look – although many of them would prefer to buy complete outfits because a jacket and trousers made of the same material is simply the most straightforward solution. It's generally becoming more difficult to sell fashions because people are more careful with their money these days. And if they spend money on a piece of clothing, it has to be something very special, with tangible value. Advice is essential here, which is why the sales personnel have to be perfectly trained. Every designer needs an introduction and it's important that the sales consultant can tell a story about each article in the store. I also have the impression that customers are looking for a sense of security in each brand. What celebrities wear is also crucial to many of them. In fact, branding is extremely important in Austria and customers would prefer to buy things where the name of the brand is recognisable."
OPINION 069
"HTC Grew 30 Per Cent Worldwide" HTC | Andrea Brà, worldwide licensee for Hollywood Trade Company, has played a major role in the development of HTC into a glamour and rock'n'roll lifestyle label. For 2012 he predicts a change in the relationship between people and fashion and formulates a clear goal for HTC: continuing to grow. Interview: Martina Müllner. Photos: Chiara Grisi, HTC
Worldwide licensee for HTC and fashion visionary: Andrea Brà.
I
s there anything new in the collection? Is your shoe-collection still particularly successful?
Andrea Brà: From fall 2012 on we are going to work in a different way. For instance, one of our major changes has been to split the seasonal theme into three parts. But I don't want to give away too much here. I can only tell you that it will be an innovative reinterpretation of Surplus. By the way, you're right! We are very successful with our shoes. Actually, turnover doubled in 2011, so we do have big expectations for the upcoming year. Do you have any new collaboration?
In June we are going to launch a great new partnership under our collaboration brand "Friends of HTC." I can only say that our new partner is an international German brand. "Friends of" is our way of dealing with the subject of collaboration. It was launched at the time we presented a new
capsule collection together with Alpinestars. It's an innovative concept, full of energy. Looking back on 2011, how did it go for HTC?
HTC grew 30 per cent worldwide. However, this growth is hardly based on new customers, but more on existing ones.
tually out of fashion, but at the same time it's incredibly fashionable, simply because it's their personal style. I love this idea. Where do you put the focus in the marketing department: What are your efforts?
What are the trends for 2012?
In 2012 there will be a lot of activity in our LA headquarters. We're going to create a very special series, one of a kind. Moreover, we have decided to put even more focus on the quality of our production. That's why we're going to produce limited editions. Most of these items we've already sold in Japan, where we receive lots of encouragement and support.
Nowadays people in general are very careful when it comes to buying clothes; they want high quality and they want to express themselves by what they wear. Our customers are to some extent collectors: They simply love our fashion. In my opinion, people will buy fashion that lasts more or less forever. I mean, people will wear something that is ac-
HTC was founded by Zip Stevenson in the '90s. In 2002 Stevenson began collaborating with Andrea Brà. Since then Brà and his team have expanded the former belt-collection to include shoes, bags, clothes and small leather goods. www.htclosangeles.com
What are your expectations for 2012?
2012 will be very tough, presumably the most difficult year in the fashion industry in general. Of course, it does depend on what area we are talking about. Our goal is to continue to grow, slowly but steadily.
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TTrends
FALL WINTER 2012/13
What You Like | Let's say goodbye to the idea of one single trend being able to save the world: Trends are not what they used to be inspiration yes, lifeline definitely no. Nowadays you have to sell fashion actively, and no one goes crazy any more just because it's newsworthy. Text: Martina MĂźllner. Photos: Bernhard Musil, Hersteller
Actlife Parajumpers
Handstich
Peuterey
Napapijri
Victorinox Dualism
Advantage through Technology In this winter of truth, function is once again a top theme. It's not enough to look good. You really have to be able to perform, just like in real life‌
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071 add
Mountain Force
Powderhorn
Toni Sailer
J.Lindeberg
G-Lab
Schneiders
Woolrich
SoHo
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Closed
The Stitch Trick The innovation in Knitware can be seen and felt: New technological advances really encourage creativity in this area. Designers particularly like the crochet optic that can be used in jackets and knit coats.
0039 Italy Habanos
Cividini
Parajumpers
River Woods
Szen
Bloom Cinque
R95th
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FASHION&INSPIRATION 073 FTC Cashmere
Witty Knitters
Toile Dixon
Etiqueta Negra
PhilPetter
Mountain Force
Meindl
Lamberto Losani
Hartford
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Just Like at Home
The use of the wooly optic in jackets and coats is where the desire for country fashion really expresses itself. Traditional materials like walk and loden come to play, and knit- and woven patterns find a new context. Excitement increases with a mix of materials like nylon or functional material.
Woolrich
ChatWin
Swiss Chriss
Luis Trenker
ADenim Napapijri
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Stetson
Barbour
Andrea Incontri Habsburg
Harbour
Mabrun
Schneiders
Boss
Phil Petter
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The Extras
A jacket like a jacket? Not at all, what with numerous details designers and product managers have introduced. Leather and lambskin are first tanned, washed and processed. Then, fur trim is added as an eye-catcher that upgrades not only jackets and coats, but also other garments such as blouses. Bloom
Meindl
G-Lab
C.P. Company
Brax
Hetregò
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FASHION&INSPIRATION 077
Max Volmรกry Bomboogie
Stones
GMS-75
Parajumpers
Floris van Bommel
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One of a Kind
Ready-to-wear is back. A bad joke considering the unstoppable progress of going casual? No, not concerning jackets and coats. The result: clean, noble and high quality jackets and coats.
Hartford
Eton
Cinque
ADenim Club des Sports
Barbour
J.Lindeberg Scabal Historic Research
Woolrich
Etiqueta Negra Barutti
Lagerfeld
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FASHION&INSPIRATION 079
Full of Cheer
Are we having winter? No, we're having colour, and not just in the small details. We want to bring a little summer into our winter, or try to get along with craziness of our seasons. 15 degrees in December just doesn't make you want to wear everlasting black, brown and grey.
Toile Dixon
Chevignon
FTC Cashmere
Victorinox
Cividini
Drykorn
0039Italy Andrea Incontri Habsburg
Marc O’Polo
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Barbour
Handmade
Inverni
They decorate, they complement and they make a great finish: Accessories are the highlights. They're the statement and distinguishing feature, a source of new ideas for fashion and object of desire at the same time. Craftsmanship ranks first, because investing in accessories means you want to see what you're getting.
Altea
M채nnersache by Liebeskind
Inverni
Stetson
Closed
Move
Claudio Cotuli
Woolrich
Liebeskind
Faliero Sarti
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These Boots
Boots made for walking forever: boots for men remain rough and tough in terms of character and they don't need playful details in order to please us. Playfulness is for women, who ignore practicality and don't want to miss the joy of adornment.
Floris van Bommel Lacoste
Santoni
Red Wing
Marc O’Polo
Dolfie
New Balance
Handstich
Volta
Witty Knitters Ludwig Reiter
Barbour
Red Wing
Lacoste
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WILD NATURE Photos: Sabine Liewald/www.sabineliewald.com Production & styling: Sabine Berlipp/www.sabineberlipp.de H/M: Sacha Schuette/Tune management using Pantene Model: Swantje/ www.megamodelagency.com
Sweater: Gisela Gรถttlich Jewellery: Freigeist Skirt: Holy Ghost
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Cardigan: Kristensen du Nord Shirt: Fine Collection Body: Gisela Gรถttlich Belt: HTC Skirt: Hoss Intropia Scarf: Closed Blazer: Sucre
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Cardigan: Soaked in Luxury Leather blouse: Aglini Sash: Department 5 Skirt: Department Five Bag: George Gina & Lucy
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Blazer: Hartford Knit vest: Friendly Hunting Blouse: Department 5 Belt: HTC Skirt: Stills
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Knit scarf: Gisela Gรถttlich Dress: Holy Ghost Bag: Abury
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Jacket: R 95th Cardigan: Bloom Blouse: Aglini Silk trousers: 81 Hours
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Cap: Warm-Me Cardigan: Samantha Sung Pullover: Dear Cashmere Blouse: 81 Hours
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BEAUTY WITHIN Photo: Sabine Liewald www.sabineliewald.com Production & Styling: Sabine Berlipp www.blossommanagement.de H/M: Sacha Schuette www.sachaschuette.de Model: Swantje www.megamodelagency.com
Necklace 1: Viane Mae Necklace 2: Everlane Jewelry Necklace 3: Label of Love Necklace 4: Dyrberg/Kern
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Necklace with pendant: Doll Up Sisters Pearl necklaces: Litalu
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Triangle chain: Ti Sento Milano Necklace with amulet: Best of 19/Gabriele Frantzen Necklace with animal motif: Iosselliani
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Upper arm bracelet: And-I Silver necklace: Litalu Silver rings: Lable of Love
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Crocheted collar: Shokay Necklace: Best of 19/Gabriele Frantzen Wide wristband: Hoss Intropia Thin bracelet: White Valentine
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FASHION&INSPIRATION 095 Latex wristband worn as a necklace: UBO Wristband worn around the neck with small ribbon: Riccardo Forconi Pearl necklace: Leonardo Pearl and metal necklace: Ben-Amun by Issac Manevitz Chain worn as bracelet: Hoss Intropia
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HORSE WITH NO NAME Photo: Bernhard Musil Styling & Production: Sabine Berlipp www.sabineberlipp.de H/M: Sacha Schuette Model: Anna/Spin Models
Sweater: Brunello Cucinelli Scarf: FTC
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Vests: Twosquaremeter Dress: Bloom Shirt: Dear Cashmere Necklace: Shookay
Sweater: Stills Shirt: 81 hours Sweater: Marc Cain
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Jacket: Dear Cashmere Sweater: Szen Necklace: Dyrberg/Kern Shorts: Drykorn
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Dress: Witty Knitters Belt: Firma
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Sweater: Friendly Hunting Belt: Hoss Intropia Trousers: Seductive
Jacket: Sacks Top and vest: Lamberto Losani Scarf: Claudio Cutuli Flower: Drykorn Trousers: Tiger of Sweden Shoes: Vic MatiĂŠ
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Vest: Cruciani Sweater: Fine Collection Blouse: Malo Necklace: Ben-Amun Trousers: Kristensen du Nord Shoes: Tiger of Sweden
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Jeff Sluijzer has created a men's fashion paradise. Today, Jefferson Hotel is like his second home.
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LOOK&FEEL 103
Fashion Lobby at Jefferson Hotel Jefferson Hotel / Amsterdam. A coffee and vodka bar welcomes clients of the Amsterdam men's fashion store Jefferson Hotel. The two floor fashion and concept store is a five star treatment for style lovers. The collection of fashion and gadgets will satisfy the demands of even the most experienced "seen-this-done-that" world traveller. Text: Miranda Hoogervorst. Photo: Jefferson Hotel
J
eff Sluijzer has a pied-Ă -terre at the Amsterdam Elandsgracht in the west part of the Jordaan. With this fashion store he's magically moulded his love for fashion, catering and luxurious hotel lounges into an exclusive, warm and stylish men's fashion hotspot: "I worked in a beach club for seven years and wanted to combine everything I love in a store concept. I wanted it to be more than fashion. I'm very proud of the store: Everything is beautiful. To me it feels like a second home." Feeling at home indeed: on Fridays and Saturdays Jeff serves drinks to clients and friends who gather at the bar to catch up.
Hang Out in Style. While scrolling through the racks and shelves
with clothes, shoes and accessories, clients can enjoy a nice espresso or a shot of vodka. The fitting rooms are downstairs, where more brands are nicely presented in warm, inviting light. Two pairs of slippers and logo-embroidered bathrobes in the corner mark the door to the spa, but don't get undressed too fast; it's actually the entrance to Jeff's office. Returning to the first floor, it's time to discuss men's styles on the big couch or the lounge chair next to the macho gold covered gun-lamp from Philippe Starck. Feel the Vibe. In the large cupboard in the sitting area, there are loads of interesting books to discover, next to crystal glassware, vintage Rolex watches and vintage but un-worn Ray-Ban sunglasses. Jeff says: "I always look out for new things and new brands. My
collection may change easily. If a store nearby sells the same brands, I'd rather not sell it anymore. There are so many nice brands available; of course I try things out. I really don't think small stores can win the race with the big fashion chains. I don't even try. My store is an experience, you need to visit us and feel the vibe." High Energy. Jeff is a pretty active entrepreneur who knows how to combine style and an inviting ambiance. In the Kinkerstraat his brother runs a second fashion store: Jeff, a more high end sportswear and "dressual" store. In September Jeff opened a pop-up store: Court SĂŠjour Boutique. The store will be reopened this coming February at a new location. With this kind of entrepreneurial energy, we wouldn't be surprised if Jeff decides one day to open a real relaxing spa.
Jefferson Hotel. Elandsgracht 57, 1016 TN Amsterdam/Netherlands, www.jeffersonhotel.nl Opening: March 2009. Owner: Jeff Sluijzer. Sales area: 120 sqm. Staff: 4. Labels: American Vintage, Avelon, Closed, Diesel Black Gold, Firma, J. Lindeberg, Jefferson Hotel dress shirts, Levi's, Ontour, Vintage 55, Wrangler Blue Bell. Perfumes from Il Profuomo. Shoes: Adidas, Converse All Star, Nike, Vans a.o.
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Komplementair is Rahel Brunner's first store, where she puts to use her seven years of experience as an accessories purchaser for Globus.
Arches of Amazing Accessories Komplementair Accessoires / Zurich. Zurich's "Viadukt" project, a 500 metre long shopping centre under a railway overpass with space for 64 stores, opened in 2010 – giving Rahel Brunner an opportunity to fulfil the dream of owning her own shop. The young businesswoman has achieved her overarching goal. Text: Dörte Welti Photos: Nico Schärer
T
he store doesn't have a styled appearance: Fledgling entrepreneur Rahel Brunner had a tight budget, so she left the rustic look of the original structure's natural stone and concrete. The decor is highly personal, with family heirlooms, like Brunner's mother's grand piano, and intriguing objects that she found in Zurich's Brockenhaus. The look was created by the young industrial designers at aekae.com, who also contributed functional accessories to the selection with QWSTION bags.
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Brunner finds her brands at trade fairs, and regularly travels to events in Paris and Berlin. It was on one of these trips that she discovered jewellery by Gabriele Frantzen, which no other shop in Zurich sells, as well as bags by Caterina Lucchi and textile accessories by Echo. "I started with brands that I was familiar with from my days with Globus," she says, "initially with only 15 that I was sure would sell." Now Brunner has 60 brands, some of which she has exclusive rights to sell in Zurich – quite an accomplishment for this textile engineer
In the entranceway Brunner has trends on display, while the rear of the store holds classics and gem-like discoveries that never go out of style.
who has enhanced her expertise by acquiring extra degrees in fashion design and marketing. While a commuter train thunders along the tracks overhead ("I don't even hear that anymore!"), Brunner explains how she has organised the shop: The entranceway features trends, and the rear of the store has a corner devoted to men's accessories like bags, shoes and jewellery, which stay in style for more than one season. On the upper floor fashionistas will find highly trendy articles in the vintage style. Komplementair is not a luxury store. The absolute upper limit is a few bag models that sell for up to 1,000 Swiss francs. Shoes and boots start at an affordable 140 Swiss francs, which allows Brunner to attract even young women customers to the shop. "Otherwise my target group is 30+, with many businesswomen from the adjacent commercial district."
Komplementair Accessoires. Viaduktstrasse 43, Bogen 22, 8005 Zurich/Switzerland, www.komplementair.ch Opening: April 2010. Owner: Rahel Brunner. Staff: 3. Retail space: 145 sqm. Womenswear: Ambre Babzoe, American Vintage, Atelier Coqurt, Ayala Bar, Beracamy Paris, Bergé, Black Lily, Bruno Premi, Calzaturificio King, Campomaggi, Candice Cooper, Caterina Lucchi, Echo, Erfurt, Florian T., Gabriele Frantzen, Great By Sandie, Guess Shoes, Hüftgold Berlin, Inoui, Jadetribe, Lapis Italia, Leigh & Luca, Liebeskind Berlin, Mexicana, Mjus, Mühlbauer, Muubaa, Orion London, Ortigia, Pajar, Private Cult, Pyaar, Quadrat, Royal Blush, Sarah Pacini, Seeberger, Shingora, Strategia, Supertrash, Tkees, Unbreakable Evolution, Uno de 50, Vintage by Fé, Vive la Difference, Zemzem Atelier. Menswear: Airstep, Casio, Codello, Cowboysbag, Jean-Jacques Rogers, Moma, Nic & Mel, Nobrand, Piquadro, Pôk, Puma by Rudolf Dassler, Puma by Alexander McQueen, Qwstion, Ray Ban, Royal Republiq, Themata.
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A fine selection: international top brands are the specialty of Herkenrath 1873.
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LOOK&FEEL 107
In a Class of Its Own Herkenrath 1873 / Düsseldorf. With its new branch in Dusseldorf, Herkenrath 1873 has clearly found the right location. Luxury, not mass production – that's the motto of this traditional family business that has been in the shoe retailing sector for five generations. Text: Ina Köhler. Photos: Herkenrath
Carrying on a family tradition in its fifth generation: Frederic, Christopher and Rebecca Herkenrath.
I
t's not as if there weren't enough shoe stores on the Dusseldorf retail scene. But the opening of Herkenrath 1873 near Carlsplatz is something special. With its fine portfolio of products, this retailer, which ranks among Europe's top footwear specialists, is consistently working its way into the upper echelons. The new store is located in the Hohe Strasse. In Dusseldorf this address – in contrast to neighbouring Cologne – doesn't promise a shopping frenzy with the masses, but appeals instead to an elegant and traditional clientele. The Herkenraths say that they were looking for an established city district, not an artificial shopping zone. And they've succeeded: Shoppers who want to purchase delicacies in the neighbouring market can then immerse themselves in the world of international shoe specialties. Tradition for Nearly 140 Years. The family name has been synony-
mous with fine footwear for over five generations. The Herkenrath siblings – Christopher, Rebecca and Frederic – are the owners and initiators of the new store. Rebecca worked in London for Emma Hope and Henry Béguelin; Frederic was in Italy with Tod's, Fratelli Rossetti and Church's. So it comes as no surprise that exclusive brands can be found in the product range of Herkenrath 1873. "We love carrying on with traditions and, at the same time, adapting to modern circumstances," says Christopher. "We have strong ties to our products and business partners, as well as to our customers and staff." The main original store in Leverkusen was closed in June 2011, and now the family business is focussing on the branches in Cologne's Minoritenstrasse and, of course, the store in Dusseldorf.
An expansive loft with 160 square metres of sales area looks out over a spacious inner courtyard. The overall effect is warm, cosy and inviting – the kind of shop that draws customers inside. Lightcoloured walls accentuate the real stars – shoes by Stéphane Kélian, Emma Hope and Rupert Sanderson. "What's special about our selection is that we're constantly on the lookout for the world's most interesting brands and, in the process, help build up new brands," says Christopher. Bespoke Shoes and Special Editions. For the store's opening, the limited editions by British luxury shoemaker John Lobb debuted in a retrospective; afterwards, the exhibition was shown in Tokyo. These bespoke shoes are exclusively available in Germany at Herkenrath's. Such delights are not available everywhere; rather they are an indication that the family and its brands are connected by a very special relationship. After all, these are people who understand the "sole" of their business. Herkenrath 1873. Hohe Strasse 8, 40213 Düsseldorf/Germany, www.herkenrath1873.de Opening: 23 July 2011. Owners: Christopher, Frederic and Rebecca Herkenrath. Sales area: 160 sqm. Labels: Andrea Carrano, Belle by Sigerson Morrison, Buba, Dove Nuotano Gli Squali, Dieter Kuckelkorn, Edward Green, Elsa, Emma Hope, Fausto Colato, Heinrich Dinkelacker, Henry Béguelin, Hogan, John Lobb, Le Tanneur, Pantofola d’Oro, Penelope Chilvers, Philipp Plein, Robert Clergerie, Rupert Sanderson, Santoni, Sigerson Morrison, Stephane Kélian, Tod’s, Tracey Neuls, Unützer.
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3x1 products are made by hand, and right there in the store.
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LOOK&FEEL 109
Museum to Go 3x1 / New York. Scott Morrison makes luxury denim transparent in the truest sense of the word. At his new store in Soho, it’s easy to see his focus on individuality. Text: Petrina Engelke. Photos: 3x1
"I
think they sell jeans," says the French tourist to her male companion trailing behind. He thought that 3x1 was an art gallery. Located in New York's Soho distinct, the store's walls are decorated with indigo coloured works that are set behind glass. Small table-top exhibits also fill the space, one of which displays an assortment of buttons. The jeans on the walls are examples of 3x1's limited editions, ranging from eight to 24 pieces. Anyone buying a pair can also pick out buttons and rivets, or get a matching hemline for a leg. The staff take care of more than just the customer's wishes; the jeans are also made on-site. Over in a glass enclosure, seamstresses work away on their machines. Tailor-Made in Three Steps. Limited Edition is the lowest of the three stages of individualisation at 3x1. In the second stage, which they call Custom-Made, a cut expert helps customers find the right fabrics and fittings for their needs. The third stage, called Bespoke, offers customers a completely tailor-made service, including a meeting with the designer behind 3x1. Scott Morrison is no man for the ages. He had successfully created an outlet for his passion, but after about five years he decided to move on. Morrison's ideas caused such a stir that Evisu recruited him as their creative director. He resigned from that post after 18 months. His current preoccupation is 3x1. It's Morrison's third long-term relationship with Paper Denim & Cloth and Earnest Sewn. Insiders will be familiar with 3x1's web standard Right Hand Twill.
Rolls of Fabric Rather Than Deer Antlers. 3x1 products and the store's overall design are an attempt to represent America's cultural heritage. However, Morrison now considers the use of recycled wood, flea market finds, and stuffed animals to be outdated. "As much as I like it personally, its effect has worn off on me, and on most of my customers as well," he says. Rather than deer antlers, denim rolls hang on the walls at 3x1. Over 100 different materials run through the hands of the seamstresses. One sample includes 71 from Japan, two from Turkey, twelve from Italy and 18 from the US. Morrison's focus is on selvedge jeans. His fascination is mainly based on curiosity. Morrison: "Cone Mills had more than 2,000 of these weaving looms in 1906, but today they only have about 31." He sees selvedge as the first choice for purists, jeans historians, and anyone obsessed with quality. The store does not limit their use of selvedge to the inside of trouser legs, glass display cases flaunt denim pockets with impressive details – something for the true connoisseur.
3x1. 15 Mercer Street, New York, NY 10013/USA Owner: Scott Morrison, Eric Rothfeld. Opening: June 2011. Retail space: 370 sqm.
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110 LOOK&FEEL
Shop and hang out: a shoe store with a bar feel.
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LOOK&FEEL 111
Please Proceed to the Bar Shoebar by Adelsberger / St. Johann i.P. "When we go to a bar, we want to enjoy the atmosphere and feel good." Shoebar by Adelsberger was designed with this in mind. A shoe store that focuses on convenience. Text: Claudia Janka. Photos: Shoebar by Adelsberger
Managing Director Bernhard Adelsberger: "Shoebar is a meeting point for fashionable women."
T
raditional location: Modehaus Adelsberger, located in St. Johann in Pongau, Austria since 1890, risked moving in a new direction in 2011. Shoebar by Adelsberger opened just a stone's throw away in August, by no means a foregone conclusion in smalltown St. Johann. The concept: to bring the flair and labels of international fashion centres to St. Johann. "In London fashion is a must; in St. Johann it's a treat," says Bernhard Adelsberger, Managing Director of both Modehaus Adelsberger and Shoebar by Adelsberger.
The Loveliest Incidentals in the World. Shoes and accessories:
they used to be only incidental to both the outfit and the fashion business. Today they're a key-item. And that's reason enough to acknowledge them with their own shop. Yet at Shoebar by Adelsberger, it's not just about presenting shoes in a nice atmosphere. The most important thing is to feel good while shopping. The interior design is classy and casual at the same time; every shoe and every accessory speaks for itself. Materials that look like stone or wood set the tone. The large shop windows make the shop's floor space feel like an exhibition room. After closing, video walls with animations function as partitions for the shop windows. The shoes aren't placed on shelves by themselves; exclusive pieces of furniture are used as presentation space. Every shoe is a unique eye-catcher. A modern LED light concept helps create the effect. The name says it all. To give customers a shoe store where they feel good and want to stay and chat, the entrance area was converted into a stylish bar. Subtle ballet flats, sexy high heels, classy ankle boots, sporty trainers: What draws the shoppers is not just the shop's atmosphere; it's the shoes that win them over. Customers expect labels like Pura Lopez,
Jeffrey Campbell, Liebeskind, Chinese Laundry, and Logan. The retail price range is from 69 to 375 euros. Yet shoes to die for and a feel-good bar setting aren't all Shoebar by Adelsberger has to offer. You can't have a perfect outfit without the right accessory. That's why handbags, scarves, and many other accessories are also offered here. 2012 will see new additions when it comes to both labels and style. The good selection of products will grow to include Paco Gil, Candice Cooper, United Nude, Vic MatiĂŠ, Melissa and Fersengold. Bold fashion themes like colour blocking, patent leather, neon, and python will make their appearance. Is another project planned "by Adelsberger?" Not for the time being. 2011 was thrilling enough. Shoebar first opened in August 2011, and there were new developments at the traditional Modehaus Adelsberger. The entire children's department was expanded by 150 square metres and redesigned, including a play area, a bar, and a children's modelling agency. It's now one of the largest departments for kidswear in Austria with a total of 360 square metres. In addition, an independent online store was launched at www.trends247.com. That should be enough to sit back and enjoy a breather after the company's 121-year track record.
Shoebar by Adelsberger. Hauptstrasse 14, 5600 St. Johann/Austria, www.adelsberger.at. Opening: August 2011. Owner: Bernhard Adelsberger. Employees: 2. Retail space: 100 sqm. Labels: Bronx, Buffalo, Chinese Laundry, Jeffrey Campbell, Kennel & Schmenger, Liebeskind, Logan, Pura Lopez.
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112 EDITOR'S LETTER /// ABOUT US
style in progress wo-men’s fashion
Publisher, editorial office, advertising department and owner UCM-Verlag B2B Media GmbH & Co KG Salzweg 17, 5081 Salzburg-Anif, Austria T 0043.6246.89 79 99 F 0043.6246.89 79 89 office@ucm-verlag.at www.ucm-verlag.at Management Stephan Huber Nicolaus Zott
Editors-in-chief Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Martina Müllner martina.muellner@ucm-verlag.at
Faulty System By Stephan Huber, Publisher style in progress
hanks to Christmas and post-Christmas sales, retailers entered the current 2012 order season with a scratch and not the gaping wound they feared they'd have. That's despite the fact that some do have trouble believing the 2011 sales figures. But the almost palpable relief that things didn't turn out as badly as they feared can in no way cover up the system's dangerous internal flaws, which, alongside external influences I wouldn't think of playing down, were responsible for this paradox.
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1. Everything's Out of Sync. I have to repeat
myself: In my humble opinion, the biggest problem in the fashion business is that sales seasons are not even remotely related to the demand seasons of 95 per cent of the consumers. Yes, I'm aware that there are retailers with a special market position and target group that sell heavy down jackets in July - and none too few, either. But they'd sell them in September, too. The flaw lies in the fact that these jackets (pars pro toto) have to be delivered in July. Calling this "the customer's wish" is a really poor excuse. Consumers have never wanted to buy winter jackets in the middle of summer. The whole cycle was triggered solely by a desire to be faster than the competition and secure a supposedly personal advantage. 2. Markdown is Anarchy. Let me repeat myself again. I have no choice. It's true that the market 112 style in progress
always regulates itself. But it's fundamentally wrong to believe that the market will always regulate itself to the advantage of the majority of its players. In fact, the majority of them did NOT benefit at all from the deregulation of clearance sales. As far as I can tell, it's also debatable whether consumers benefited from it at all. Marking down winter merchandise in October or November seriously damages the value of a product or a brand and makes the average consumer think that the garment, which they didn't really need before it was forced on them at a 50 per cent discount, isn't worth paying more for anyway. If I could be Fashion Dictator for only a day, then if nothing else, I'd reinstate legislation to regulate clearance sales. And I wouldn't give a damn if people thought I was a closet communist. I'd start off the winter clearance sales on (Yep, read these words!) 1 March. There's a reason why it's called winter CLEARANCE sale. But I'd do it mainly to protect consumers who've bought expensive garments during a revised, more realistic season. Some might think I'm a dreamer. And although rethinking delivery dates and seasonal periods would seem necessary, and legislation to regulate clearance sales should be reinstated, the time still isn't right. But let's face it, in theory, I'm right. And that's what it would take to make things work in practice. stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at
Managing editor Nicolette Scharpenberg nicolette.scharpenberg@ucm-verlag.at Art direction/production Elisabeth Prock-Huber elisabeth@ucm-verlag.at Contributing writers Elisabeth Bärnthaler Sabine Berlipp Petra Engelke Jeanette Fuchs Miranda Hoogervorst Claudia Janka Ina Köhler Kay-Alexander Plonka Maria Prock Sonja Ragaller Nicoletta Schaper Dörte Welti Photographers+Illustrators Yorick Carroux Sabine Liewald Stefan Milev Bernhard Musil Anna Rabbow Ben Wolf Image editor Anouk Schönemann anouk.schoenemann@ucm-verlag.at
Advertising director Stephan Huber stephan.huber@ucm-verlag.at Publisher’s assistant, distribution Sigrid Staber sigrid.staber@ucm-verlag.at Christina Hörbiger christina.hoerbiger@ucm-verlag.at English editor Elizabeth d'Elsa English translations Word Connection Business Translation Service Printing Laber Druck, Oberndorf Printing coordinator Manfred Reitenbach Account info Volksbank Salzburg 105 627 BLZ 45010
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