x-ray 3.12 EN by UCM Verlag

Issue 03/2012 . 17th Volume . 造 6.90

Welcome Mass Approach to Fashion The lucrative business with leftovers Nobody Is Too Big To Fail. An interview with Karl-Heinz M端ller My Friend The Retailer Why customers love him Communicate! Is the jeans industry running out of themes? Cover design by Sandrine Pagnoux

Caleb wears: Anchor Pea coat

THEY ALL WANT PEPE.

pepejeans.com

SHOP TOMMY.COM

Editorial

Let’s Talk About… The guests who aren't at the party are often the most interesting, they're the ones you talk about. But does the same thing also apply to a trade fair? An interesting question when you look at the line-up at this year's event in Berlin.

On the Cover

aking yourself scarce is sometimes a good strategy: The public is often bored by an across-the-board approach - this rule applies as much to celebrities as it does to brands. But is this also valid for the industry's central meeting places? Retailers travelling to Berlin this year will find huge gaps in the exhibitors' portfolio. The fragmentation that had already begun in the winter continues on its merry way. But where could central meeting places for intercommunication be in the future? And with what kind of content? What topics would occupy the industry in the future? Does it still have anything to say? We've been searching for the answers to these questions, not always an easy task - find out more under "Communicate!" (Page 38) and in the interview with Karl-Heinz Müller from the Bread & Butter from Page 26. At the same time, fashion is attractive for many suppliers – so exciting, so glamorous and image-promoting that many would prefer to happily jostle around in this market just to have a little of this glamour rub off onto them. What rules determine the mass fashion market, find out on page 28. However, the individual retail market provides a contrast to this by being personally available to the customer. Read on Page 48 how this can work, under the heading: "My Store, My Friend." We hope you enjoy this issue. Your x-ray Team 08 ––

"Eyes are the window to the soul, they don't lie."

Everything Happens in the Eyes

The Parisian photographer and artist likes illustrating lost souls best, people who are torn between opposites like beauty and tragedy and are in complete chaos. For the current cover of x-ray she puts real eyes at the centre of her illustration, in order to create a particularly deep bond with the viewer. To do this, she combined one of her photographs with an illustration. Her inspiration was a verse from the poem by Charles Baudelaire, "Le Serpent qui danse" ("The Dancing Snake"): "Your eyes, which neither hate nor love are ever found to hold, are two cold jewels which are made of iron mixed with gold." If the people in Pagnoux's pictures could speak, they might say something idiotic or emotional like ''Protect me,'' or ''Love me''. Why, the young Parisian explains in the interview starting on Page 60. www.sandrinepagnoux.com

Contents

10 ––

08 Editorial 12 Right Now 24 Fairs

What's the story 26 28 32 34 36 39 40 44 48 52 54 55

''Nobody Is Too Big To Fail'' An interview with Karl-Heinz Müller Welcome to the Mass Approach to Fashion How merchandise density is putting the trade under pressure ''More Than Second Hand'' Ebay works on a change of image World Wide Away Residual stock utilisation via the internet Communicate! Is the jeans engine of innovation still running? ''Not Just a Loud, Short Flash In The Pan'' Joachim Baumgartner speaks about denim trends Foreign countries, Foreign customs The Russian market as El Dorado for European brands Darling Denim? How the denim trade deals with the ups and downs of the market My Store, My Friend How a retailer becomes a brand The Third Eye The design agency Grand Studio guides brands to success Back to Blue Garcia steps on the gas Is Taking Part Everything? Salsa sets itself new goals

The talk 56 58 60

Italy's New Generation The Antony Morato success story Do You Have a Plan? How predictable is fashion in reality? Eyes Don't Lie Cover artist Sandrine Pagnoux on the language of her pictures

FASHION

64 Want It! 70 Boys Are Back in Town The revival of the new man 80 Heavy Patterns Exemplary

in store

88 90 92 94 96 97

98 One Last Thing . Imprint

Retail News Everything Must Go! Reason Outpost, New York ''Without Graffiti We Would Have Nothing Today'' Le Fix, Copenhagen The Graduate Graduate, Bordeaux Like a Colourful Dog Loup Store, Saarbrücken Fast Food Shopping KissKissBangBang, Vienna

right now

Right Now Text Isabel Faiss, Ina Köhler Photos Labels

Converse Bought as Used

Converse is introducing several new models with the Washed & Worn line in its spring/ summer 2013 collection. The motto of the collection's theme is "Out of the Box" and is one that Converse is implementing with washed sneakers with as much individuality and character as possible. Classic Chuck Taylor served as the base model. Numerous street style images from all over the world were most probably used as inspiration because original worn Chucks can be found everywhere. The characteristic star is emblazoned on the "Stars & Stories" series as an all-over-print in loads of colours. The Pro Leather model from 1976 can be found as a suede and canvas show with a vulcanised sole in the new season. www.converse.com

ADenim A-Not-Just-Denim

The last set of reports from the trouser specialists ADenim had really set the bar high. Jeans had been fastened onto the roof of the German headquarters for months, shaped by wind and weather and then used as a style sheet in the laboratory. In the spring/ summer collection for 2012, one of the Roof -Destroyed washings will be launched for the first time. In addition, the label's range will be expanding from the previous ten jeans models in 27 different washings with a five-pocket model with French front pockets. The non-denim share with linen and cotton Chinos in vintage look has also established itself. This mainly took place during the summer months along with the lightweight summer denim and so will be expanded further. "We make trousers as we would like to wear them ourselves. Pure, made from good fabric with handmade finishes. No frills, no obvious label or stitchings. Actually, we pretty much leave a lot out", Marco Lanowy, Managing Director of ADenim, clearly points out the direction they're going along. www.alberto-pants.com

12 ––

Fuga Order Online

With its newly launched B2B online shop, the lifestyle brand Fuga has since May again been offering its customers the option of ordering current pieces of the collection from stock. In tandem with this, the range will be expanded with coloured Chinos, in particular. The long-term plan is to extend the range of all product groups in the storable collections. www.shop.fugadenim.de

Drykorn Online Facelift

After undergoing an extensive facelift, Drykorn showcased its new online store in July 2012. The store was launched in the autumn of 2011 so the measures mainly only focus on sales and marketing and hardly on the website. As from July, the complete collection will also be available via the webshop to customers from Austria and the Benelux countries. www.drykorn.com

freemantporter.com

right now

Chiemsee The Sportiest Year of Your Life

Kite surfing on Trinidad Tobago, windsurfing on Naxos or free-riding in Ischgl. Something that until now was only possible for cool dudes in snowboard and surfing videos, Chiemsee now wants to make possible for its fans too. The board sporting label is celebrating its 30th birthday this year. And the marketing department has come up with a pretty cool idea to mark the occasion: "The sportiest year of your life" is a campaign which will run from 28th January to 30th November 2012 and is calling on board sport fans to apply. First prize will be a six weeks board sporting holiday which is to include the hotspots mentioned above. In December, an expert jury will select 30 finalists who will then compete against one another in Ischgl for the first prize. www.chiemsee.com/deinjahr

After twelve years with the company, Stefan Puriss, long-serving Managing Partner of Frontline GmbH, will be leaving at his own request in September 2012. The 42-year old will remain a shareholder and will help to find a successor. Puriss came to Frontline after taking a business studies degree in 2001 and since 2006 was a joint Managing Partner with Torsten Lange. Torsten Lange: "He has significantly shaped the development of the company and through this has also influenced the fashion-e-commerce industry. We are very grateful to him for this. We are delighted that he will continue to be part of the company as a shareholder. The Frontline GmbH was established in 1986 and is one of the most well-known and largest online suppliers in the young fashion market. www.frontlineshop.com

Frontline From September without Puriss

Expanding

Zalando, the shoe and fashion supplier, started its internet sales and marketing with an export offensive in the spring. Following Sweden and Belgium, customers in Spain, Finland, Denmark and Poland will be catered for. With this, Zalando is also present in Holland, France, UK and Italy besides the German-speaking countries. Zalando launched its own collection in March. A designer cooperation with the Berlin Kaviar Gauche label is to follow in the autumn. Sold

The organic label Hess Natur has been sold to the Swiss holding company Capvis Equity Partners. Until now, the label belonged to the Primondo Specialty Group and has been looking for a buyer for a long time. Hess Natur had a turnover of around 73 million euros in the 2010/11 fiscal year.

14 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Tommy Hilfiger Katie Holmes as Ambassador

The Millennium Promise Foundation has set itself a goal of keeping a promise: By 2015, the number of people living below the poverty line in Africa is to be halved. To this end, Tommy Hilfiger has donated the Promise collection, 100 per cent of its proceeds will be donated to the Foundation. To do this, Tommy Hilfiger turned to American classics, designing them in African colours. It appointed the actress, Katie Holmes, as ambassador of the collection. She will wear these to appointments with the aid organisation and with the local media. "It is very impressive what Tommy Hilfiger is doing in support of Millennium Promise and its commitment towards improving the lives of people in Ruhiira/Uganda", says Katie Holmes. "Its support is greatly important towards making the unique work that Millennium Promise does in Africa public. I believe that together we can help to overcome the extreme poverty even in our own lifetime", the designer adds. www.tommy.com

Wrangler Beauty Contest

Fashionable Technology is a buzzword that has been following us around for years. But we have never been as close as this to innovative ideas turning into a reality and being affordable. The new women's jeans line by Wrangler has now set out to make the desires of its female target group true: A jeans line just for women, refined with extracts of jojoba or Aloe Vera using a special treatment during the wash process and which are to provide the skin with moisture when the trousers are worn, stimulating circulation and reducing cellulite. For this new Denim Spa Therapy line, three models were used Molly as Slim Fit and the two Skinny Jeans Courtney and Corynn. www.wrangler.com

BREAD & BUTTER 4th-6th JULY 2012 AREA SPORT & STREET HANGAR 1 BOOTH No. S2

right now

Lacoste Shoes LED Design

Not glowing shoes! By Lacoste shoes, the abbreviation LED stands for Lacoste Essential Design. For the coming spring/summer 2013 season, this special division is introducing a collection which used sources of inspiration taken from design classics by Eames, Jacobsen, Charlotte Perriand and Le Corbusier. The three characteristic Lacoste sports of tennis, golf and sailing were also taken on. In the course of this, a collection was produced that revamped the high-quality classics placing a strong focus on detail finishing. www.lacoste.com

Antony Morato Shopping Experience with Searchandising

In May, the Italian Menswear label Antony Morato is launching its own online shop and will be following a new path into the presentation of goods and online shopping through numerous features. In addition to the classic shop, behind the Features button lie videos, the current Antony-Morato-Magazine and a blog covering a variety of themes. A blog with individual pieces for purchase can be reached by clicking on Style Feed. Innovation is written in a big way, products from the Antony-Morato-Magazine or the current advertising campaign can be conveniently placed into the shopping cart with just one click. Behind the Denim Fit Guide button, the user can find information on the different cuts of the trousers. But the heart and soul of the online store is Searchandising, a dynamic merchandising tool that personalises the shopping experience in real time by catering to the customer's desires and offering preferred product categories according to availability of colour and size. If any questions remain open, a stylist is on hand to offer advice in the livechat function or it's possible to publish shopping lists on Facebook and get tips yourself. www.morato.it

16 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Freeman T. Porter Plans for Berlin

Hendrick Schimmel is new Country Manager for Freeman T. Porter in Germany, Austria and Switzerland. He is an old hand in the sales, shop-in-shop and own stores areas. The Parisian EP6 company employed the experienced sales specialist exactly for this purpose, prior to this he was responsible for the department stores and sales area systems of G-Star in Germany and other markets. "The way the brand has evolved in France in the past puts me into a very positive frame of mind. That is a great challenge. I have made it my goal to create new and successful structures in Germany, Austria and Switzerland", says Hendrick Schimmel. At the top of his homework list now stands the launch of a store and a showroom in Berlin. www.freemantporter.com

Take-Over

Deluxe Distribution For Happy People

The Berlin distribution agency Deluxe Distribution took over the distribution of the Norwegian brand Moods of Norway for the autumn/winter collection 2012 in Germany. As a result, the agency's brand portfolio is expanding. Alongside brands like Minimum or Customized For The Crowd, they now have another Scandinavian brand that offers an unconventional and progressive collection. The Moods of Norway's trademark is a pink tractor, which, as a stylistic device, dominates in all campaign images, and is a symbol of how the three founders of the brand do some things differently. The brand's headquarters and, to date, biggest showroom is still in the three founders' home town of Styrn, a little town with 6,750 residents in the middle of nowhere in Norway. They want to enter the markets in the Benelux countries, Switzerland, Spain, the US and Japan, and now the German market, using Deluxe Distribution. www.deluxe-distribution.de, www.moodsofnorway.com

Great Britain's largest sport retailers, Sports Direct International, has taken over the Firetrap label from the World Design & Trade company. The casual label Full-Circle had already gone from the insolvent WDT to SDI in the spring. Sports Direct International is also owner of the Dunlop and Karrimor or Hot Tuna trademarks. Firetrap is to be continued as a wholesale brand.

right now

G-Star New Location

G-Star is planning to move the German headquarters from Neuss to Düsseldorf-Flingern this coming September. The decision not to move the German headquarters to Berlin, but instead into the young creative area of Schwanenhöfe in the small and very cosy district of Flingern, was a total surprise. The 30-strong G-Star team will be moving into the 1,800 square metres of the large historical arched hall in the Erkrather Strasse 230. In addition, the in-house showroom will also host a shoe collection which has been licensed to Overland. www.g-star.com

Diesel Cinema Fantastique

In this case, the term Darkroom Défilé, isn't concealing any dingy back room in a club with a very intimate atmosphere. 'Intimate Darkroom Défilé is a project by Diesel with the Viennese photographer Michael Dürr. That someone should actually present their new collection in a completely dark room, seems to be a paradox at first. However, then the big screen comes into play and the ingenuity of this idea becomes clear. Michael Dürrs Cinema Photographique shows fashion photography with background music in cinema format. The première of this exhibition concept took place in 2008 as part of the festival for Fashion & Photography in Vienna. In the meantime, it has been touring museums, galleries and festivals. www.diesel.com, www.michaelduerr.com

18 ––

The eBook People Mega Stoned

''How does someone survive 50 years of sex, drugs and rock 'n' roll?' This is the title of an article in the German newspaper Bild on the Rolling Stones' 50th anniversary this year. The young German company The eBook people, a spin-off of the publishing house The Interview People in Munich, are enthusiastically working towards their goal of compiling as yet unpublished archive material on the Stones in a 200 page ebook and publishing it in two volumes. In order to finance the mega project Matthias Würfl and Uli Karg have started a crowd funding campaign. Users from all over the world can participate in financing it on the website. Crowd funding is a proven method of funding, particularly for cultural projects. We'll have to wait and see if the Stones can find enough donors. www.indiegogo.com/50yearsRollingStones

Mavi Superwoman on Board

The Brazilian supermodel Adriana Lima is the face of the global image campaign of Mavi for the autumn/winter collection 2012/13. The jeans label from Istanbul has once more proved what a key role this advertising campaign plays in brand-name communication. Most likely, no costs were spared because, according to Forbes Magazine, Adriana Lima with 4.5 million euros a year is fourth on the list of best paid models in the world. www.mavi.com

Welcome at Bread & Butter Berlin 04 â&#x20AC;&#x201C; 06 July 2012 | Denim Base, Hall: Airfield, Booth: D 42 www.mustang-jeans.com

right now

Energie Break the Rules!

With its new Make Noise campaign, Energie is now loudly appealing to its target group. Whereas we in Germany find the term Wutbürger (enraged citizen) repulsive, this is exactly what the Italian men's label are wanting their followers to do: to protest. This project is expressed through their campaign and its motive emerged through the British rock band Rubber Kiss Goodbye amongst other things. The band's début album is expected this summer. The band itself was formed by the band leader Tara Ferry, son of Bryan Ferry. The black and white motive should reinforce the impact of the images with its Indie Rock charm. The Swedish photographer Alex Lindhal stood behind the camera. www.energie.it

17 Mustang Cooperation with The BossHoss

Mustang always had close ties with rock music. Earlier, there was the own record label, sponsoring of bands and festivals such as the Scorpions, Fury in the Slaughterhouse, Rock am Ring or the own Cologne music café JAM together with Viva. Now, the jeans label is cooperating with the Germany country rock group The BossHoss. The joint collection Mustang Black edition by The BossHoss has nine models: jeans, shirts, T-shirts and longsleeve. Rugged red selvage Japan denim by Kaihara is processed. The line will be released for sale from September 2012. The initial plan is to work with the musicians for three seasons. "We find The BossHoss really cool, they are authentic and don't give way", says Mustang CEO Dietmar Axt. As a bit of icing on the cake, The BossHoss will be appearing at Mustang's exhibition booth during the Bread & Butter. Let’s go! www.mustangjeans.com, www.thebosshoss.net

The makers of the American online fashion and styling service JustFab.de don't scrimp on superlatives when describing their business model. Behind it is a new trend from the US, which is also being modified for Germany now. After the user has completed a free fashion personality test, style experts identify his fashion style, then the accessories, shoes and bags that fit his profile are pieced together in a boutique. Only JustFab products are sold in the process. As a VIP customer, you pay 39.95 euros per month and are guaranteed to regularly have new styles in your wardrobe. All other customers can buy products for between 49.95 and 69.95 euros. It's advertised using celebrity customers and stylists to the stars. Carried out using a service with branded products, this model could become seriously relevant. www.justfab.de

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JustFab Fashion as a Monthly Subscription

Lois Birthday Party

The former Spanish collection Lois celebrates its 50th anniversary this year. In 1962, the brand was established. For the occasion, the Legends collection takes on some of the styles from the brand's history. The One is an homage to the first jeans ever made by Lois. The model Torera is a replica of the denim jacket Tejana – one of the classic jeans jackets from the '70s. The line is complemented by T-shirts in the typical Lois vintage look and classic cords – even an evergreen from the golden '70s, when the brand was also worn by Abba. Lois Legends will be available in stores for the first time in September. In addition, the regular Lois collection will be presented at Bread & Butter: Bleached, coloured denim and other denim styles play a principal role in this. www.loisdenim.com

VISIT US IN BERLIN 04 – 06 JULY 2012

BREAD & BUTTER

three-2-one.com

DENIM BASE, STAND D3

a-denim.com

right now

Vans X Barbour Tradition Meets Skate Shoe

Vans the skate manufacturer and Barbour the British tradition brand are launching a capsule collection in the autumn. Vans X Barbour link typical design elements of the two brands from the old and new world. The models, slip-on, boots and lace-up shoes, come from Vans-Kosmos. Barbour-lovers can rediscover the classic army colours, leather details, tartan lining and the waxed linen appearance. The three models will be appearing as a special element in the Vans California collection in October. www.barbour.com, www.vans.com

M.O.D. SelvedgE Denims

At the upcoming Bread & Butter, everything for the M.O.D. Premium, M.O.D.'s new line, is focussed on the high-quality Japan selvedge denim. After its initial successful attempt with Japan denim in the collection for January 2011, the demand for new models and washings has steadily increased, confirms M.O.D. Co-owner and Designer Elias Rumelis. "Our aim was to bring Japan denim onto the market for less than 100 euros", says Akin Erdogan, Managing Director and Owner of the jeans manufacturer. "We have also visibly raised this very high-quality and distinctive line from the current line by means of a differentiated branding." The sales team would also like to acquire a new circle of customers. "We are convinced that our trousers for just under 100 euros don't need to shy away from comparisons with premium label products. Quite the opposite.", says Akin Erdogan. www.mod-onlineshop.de

22 ––

Pepe Jeans Slow and Steady Wins the Race

The first True-Blue collection from Pepe Jeans London appeared in selected brand stores at the beginning of May. With True-Blue, the brand achieved its own goal of using 95% less water, and absolutely no chemicals in the denim manufacturing process. To achieve their goal, they cooperated closely with production plants that developed a sensible method of recycling wastewater produced by washing the denim. Instead of chemicals so-called Dry-Finish Technologies were used, whereby, for example, used effects are achieved by using ozone gas and 3D laser technologies. Pepe Jeans is using six of its main jeans styles to launch the line, including Kingston, Tooting, Cash and Jeanius for men, and Venus and New Brooke for women. www.pepejeans.com

Replay In Motion

In the spring, Replay presented its German customers with a very special treat: In the cities of Berlin, Neuss, Hamburg and Munich, customers and sellers were trained locally with food and music. Large, 400 square metre areas were constructed for the so-called Traveller Tour in all the cities and guests such as P&C or Leos were invited. Replay wanted to strengthen contacts with its partners by means of these trade events and increase focus on the products. "We are investing in communication and in close cooperation with the trade", says Germany Managing Director Thomas Wirth. "This includes a full range of measures, starting from optimised delivery to commercial marketing." The innovative theme of laser blast, a new water-saving technology, is important to the company and one that Replay has expanded with its own collection this season and is supporting communication with a roadshow. There is also news in geographic terms. The Düsseldorf label moved into a new representative showroom in the media harbour in the Plange Mühle in May 2012. The new Germany headquarters is also to move there from spring 2013. The spectacular architecture of the Düsseldorf architectural office Ingenhoven shapes the distinctive appearance of the former wood silo. A facelift is also in the pipeline for the store in Cologne. It is to be revamped in late summer based on the models in Milan, Paris or Barcelona, further stores in Germany are to follow in 2013. www.replay.it

JANNI HÖNSCHEID CHIEMSEE PRO SURFER

HANNAH WHITELEY CHIEMSEE PRO KITESURFER

CONTACT: INFO@CHIEMSEE.COM

Munich Fabric Start FULLY BOOKED

Fair News Text Alexandra Hawel, Ina Köhler Photos Fairs

National

Bread & Butter

Green Showroom

Dates: 4 to 6 July 2012 Organiser: Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH Segment: Green fashion, women's outerwear, men's outerwear, children's outerwear, accessories, cosmetics, lifestyle products What's new: A pop-up store along with the Ethical Fashion Show at the ewerk www.green-showroom.net 04

Capsule

Dates: 4 to 6 July 2012 Organiser: Bread & Butter GmbH & Co. KG Segment: Denim, urbanwear, sportswear, street fashion, accessories, shoes What's new: ''Temple of Denim'' with innovations in the area of denim www.breadandbutter.com

Dates: 5 to 6 July 2012 Organiser: bpmw Agency New York Segment: Men & women up and coming What's new: New location at Postbahnhof www.capsuleshow.com

Dates: 4 to 6 July 2012 Organiser: Messe Frankfurt Exhibition GmbH Segment: Casualwear, urbanwear, streetwear, prêt-à-porter, women's outerwear, men's outerwear, children's outerwear, accessories, cosmetics, lifestyle products What's new: Expansion to two halls with more than 50 exhibitors, Future Summit

Bright Tradeshow

Dates: 4 to 6 July 2012 Organiser: Bright GmbH & Co. KG Segment: Streetwear, skateboarding, sneakers, boardsports What's new: Bright has been moved forward one day. www.brighttradeshow.com, www.alltomorrows.de

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Ethical Fashion Show

Already, at this early stage, the international trade fair for clothing fabrics and accessories, which takes place from 4 to 6 September in Munich, can report more than 800 exhibitors. Even the adjoined Blue Zone in the Zenith Hall, which provides an important platform for the denim market, has encountered a consistently good response. The organisation team around Sebastian and Wolfgang Klinder feels they were right about the direction of the fair: ''A strong domestic market is crucial to the success of a trade fair,'' says Sebastian Klinder, ''and Germany is still the strongest and most important market in Europe.'' In the next round, in which materials and the makings of the autumn/ winter 2013 season are presented, Munich Fabric Start also presents the new concept pattern studios. This is to be a creative platform for suppliers of fashion designs and printing. The Ready-Made-Solutions (R.M.S.dpt) segment, which celebrated its premier in the Blue Zone last season, will be selectively extended to the entire fair. It will be presenting complete solutions and a full-service under this banner. 4 to 6 September 2012, www.munichfabricstart.com

''change your cotton', new pop-up store www.ethicalfashionshowberlin.com 06 The Gallery Düsseldorf

Dates: 28 to 31 July 2012 Organiser: Igedo Company GmbH & Co. KG Segment: Designer, avantgarde and accessories collections What's new: Follow-up event by CPD signatures in Düsseldorf www.igedo.com, www.the-gallery-duesseldorf.de 07

Premium Exhibitions

Dates: 4 to 6 July 2012 Organiser: Premium Exhibitions GmbH Segment: international premium brands, designer, womenswear and menswear brands. Accessories, shoes What's new: Shoes and accessories were separated according to space, the focus on international exhibitors is even bigger, e.g. Korean designers, young designers from Istanbul, as well as Austrian fashion. www.premiumexhibitions.com 08

Seek

Dates: 4 to 6 July 2012 Organiser: Premium Exhibitions GmbH

Segment: International street fashion and menswear brands What's new: Seek has expanded to three floors and about 60 exhibitors in total. There is also a new pop up store with product design by www.slowdownjoe.com www.seekexhibitions.com 09

Show & Order

Dates: 3 to 6 July 2012 Organiser: Show & Order GmbH Segment: High-end fashion What's new: Many labels were never displayed in Germany before, more than 160 international labels are taking part in the summer. www.showandorder.de 10

GDS/Global Shoes

Dates: 5 to 7 September 2012 Organiser: Messe Düsseldorf GmbH Segment: Shoes, accessories What's new: A trendy focus-point is sustainability, the Design Attack area is transformed into the port city Aqua Marina. www.gds-online.com, www.globalshoes-online.com

Trade fair news –– Right now

Bread & Butter

Seek

International

Chic Young Blood

Chic Young Blood Change of Scenery The fair Chic Young Blood in Beijing is moving: The second event is organised from 26 to 28 October in the cool, arty and hip quarter Dashanzi, the so-called 798 art zone – 751 D.Park. At the same time, just around the corner the second Mercedes Benz China Fashion Week will be taking place. About 100 lifestyle brands and young designers from the casual, denim, streetwear, active and sportswear segments are expected at the upcoming Chic Young Blood. The new location is a former industrial area built in the '50s, in a style inspired by Bauhaus, which today houses galleries. A special stand design appropriate to this look was developed for the exhibitors, which takes on the look of the industrial building. Side events will be held, such as a big opening party and the Buyer Culture & Trends Salon, which is reserved for buyers. Part of the Chic Young Blood concept is opening the event up to consumers. Chic Young Blood: 26 to 28 October 2012, Chic Beijing: 26 to 29 March 2013, www.chicyoungblood.com

Gallery Copenhagen

Dates: 9 to 11 August 2012 Organiser: Gallery Int. Fashion Fair Cph Segment: Contemporary womenswear, menswear, designers, accessories What's new: Increased number of exhibitors with about 330 brands, cooperation with The Shanghai Fashion Week and Fashion Shanghai www.gallery.dk 02

Jacket Required London

Dates: 13 to 14 July 2012 Organiser: Jacket Required Segment: Contemporary menswear What's new: Exhibitors such as Levi’s Made & Crafted, Levi’s Vintage Clothing, Our Legacy, Sawa and Esemplare have now joined us. www.jacket-required.com 03 Stitch Menswear London

Dates: 15 to 16 July 2012 Organiser: Stitch Menswear, Brian Duffy, Business Design Centre Segment: Menswear, urbanwear, streetwear, accessories What's new: Switch streetwear area www.stitchmenswear.com

Who's next Prêt à Porter

04 CPH Vision, Terminal 2 Copenhagen

Dates: 9 to 11 August 2012 Organiser: Exhibition Professionals Segment: International menswear and womenswear, accessories and shoes, denim, sportswear, streetwear, designers What's new: Amalgamation of CPH Vision and Terminal 2 into a vision on what was Terminal 2's space www.cphvision.dk 05 Who’s next Prêt à Porter Paris

Dates: 30 June to 3 July 2012 Organiser: WSN Developpement Segment: Menswear and womenswear, avantgarde, accessories and shoes, urbanwear, designers What's new: After the merger in January, the organisers modified the concept of the fair again. 300 menswear brands, 800 womenswear brands and about 900 accessory labels are expected. www.whosnext.com

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WWW –––––––––– www.breadandbutter.com

"Nobody is too big to fail" For the first time in the history of the Bread & Butter Karl-Heinz Müller is on the defensive. Because the Denim Base, of all things, the core segment of the fair, has had to take some painful rejections. Levi’s, Bench, Replay, Diesel and Miss Sixty. Is this simply a reflection of the market or is Berlin no longer sexy enough? Interview Stephan Huber Text Isabel Faiss Photo Bread & Butter

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oes denim have a problem? Karl-Heinz Müller: Yes, regarding content. It's no secret that innovations are missing. There aren't many themes at the moment, something I also notice in my shop. In my opinion, there's a certain generation conflict with classic denim labels. I've always been a big denim fan but I'm also over 50. We grew up in jeans and will probably die in them too. But it's a totally different thing with the young generation. There isn't an ideological allegiance with the theme any more. What kind of reason does today's young consumer have for buying a pair of jeans for 179 euros? That's a very complex issue. Today, when I look at a label like Diesel which has been managed by the the same owner, Renzo Rosso, for years, then I don't see any break in the flow. The biggest challenge is reaching the next generation. The principal argument is always that there are a lot of labels besides H&M and Zara, such as Cheap Monday, that make a really cool product relatively cheaply, well under 100 euros. Nowadays, nobody's bothered if you wear a cheap pair of jeans, unlike in the past. That's the new generation.

With just a few exceptions, jeans specialists don't have a particularly strong collection. The ones that are doing well today haven't just built up their business purely on jeans, they also offer complete collections. Pepe Jeans for example, or G-Star and Hilfiger Denim. They are well placed even if denim is in decline because of the Chino trend. But sales can be compensated. Is that going to be a problem for the Denim Base and the Bread & Butter as a whole? No. Even if it's painful, of course, when longterm partners don't take part. A trade fair is always a reflection of the market, how could it be any different. Anyway, we have always placed large strong brands such as Adidas, Converse, Superdry or Scotch & Soda in the Denim Hall to complete the denim range. Our buyers have always received this mix very well because it is offered in the shops like this too. We still have problems with space in the Superior Hall. The demand for square metres there is always greater than the space available. Which is why, for example, we've placed Marc O'Polo in the Denim Hall directly next to the Superior Hall. Strellson is also in the Denim Hall,

Bread & Butter –– what's the story

There are, of course, also labels that we try to recommend a smaller stand to, more in fitting with their market relevance. But, sometimes out of a false sense of pride this isn't accepted. The leaders of the label would prefer not to take part rather than reduce the size of their booth.

perhaps we should call this hall the Main Hall in future. This new mix of halls is ultimately a natural development. The denim market has always been in flux. When I started my first sales rep job at Levi Strauss in 1982, it was damn hard selling jeans. There was a strong Italian High Fashion wave at the time and fashionable slacks made of linen and poplin were in vogue. The great denim boom started in the mid '80s up to the mid '90s, triggered by Levi's Back to the Roots campaign. Labels like Diesel, Replay and Blue System came on strong. When I opened my 14 oz store in Cologne in 1999, denim was experiencing a downturn. At the same time, I'd taken up the denim cause. It was only around 2002, 2003 that the great boom with so-called L.A. brands came back. Women discovered denim. Now coloured Chinos have been the major themes for three or four seasons and denim is naturally suffering because of this.

strengths lie in the women's denim sector, such as Seven for all Mankind, AG Adriano Goldschmied, Denham the Jeanmaker and Closed will be exhibiting there. Many small innovative denim labels will also be showing their latest collections.

Do you see a conceptual challenge coming to the Bread & Butter? The Bread & Butter isn't a pure space renter. We face content-related challenges all the time, even today. A few years ago, we created L.O.C.K. There, we provided a concentrated focus on authentic labels with tradition and heritage, we really got something going with this. Today, our response is called "Berlin Temple of Denim". I'm absolutely convinced that we are standing on the verge of a new denim wave. If only because consumers have basically been abstaining from denim for a number of seasons now. Our Temple of Denim is docked right next to the Denim Base and will show the innovative power that really exists in denim. At the same time, we also have the environment theme: With the Laboratorio from TRC Candiani in cooperation with Tonello, we are showing how water-saving washes work today - through the use of ozone and laser technologies. At his booth, the Turkish premium denim-weaver Orta Anadolu will be showing what opportunities exist for the use of organic cotton today. Scott Morrison will be building his 3x1 store, just like the ones in Soho and New York, and will be making customised denim in his sewing room. Besides this, several denim labels whose

"As a brand, you should be able to show the retailer that ultimately it's important for the whole market. From the retailer side, I only ever hear that it's been badly received when important labels are conspicuous by their absence. The retail market is finally happy to have a platform that is as complete as possible. A trade show means wanting to compete with competitors."

Are there discussions about prices? Or at least people are moaning about costs behind closed doors. An appropriate tradeshow presentation naturally requires a corresponding budget. When times are bad, this expenditure is obviously questioned. The Bread & Butter is the most cosmopolitan and major fair platform of its kind in Europe, if not worldwide. Activating such a large number of professional visitors, as we do every season, can't be done using any other marketing measures. So, it is well worth brands having the appropriate arena for their relevance to the market.

Many people look at this arms race critically. Of course, you have to look at this very differently. If a beautiful woman has a double-D bosom, of course she needs a double-D bra, she can't just squeeze herself into an A cup. The Bread & Butter, as I have already mentioned, isn't a national event, it's a leading international trade fair. Accordingly, major labels represented on an international scale such as G-Star, Adidas, Hilfiger Denim and Scotch & Soda receive their visitors (numbers lie between 6,000 and 10,000 people) in an suitable arena. That has nothing to do with an arms race, just with necessity. However, if the size of the booths don't match the market relevance, it's certainly a pure arms race which doesn't make any sense from the point of view of content and isn't advantageous.

What do you think of the Berlin location in the medium term? You certainly can't find fault with the town. There are always those who ask: "What's next, blondie?" Though most people are happy that the Bread & Butter is taking place in Berlin. They're asking about the next city because fashion always needs a new thrill. And? Do you care? Not particularly. But, there are some people who have kept on whispering things into my

ear over the last few years making demands. Admittedly, Berlin has lost a bit of sexiness because everybody's jostling about here now. Even the Igedo is there now, even if it's just a tiny event. How intense is the competition in Berlin? We have always had something of a "borderline" between the Premium and the Bread & Butter. But we don't work against one another though. We have a peaceful co-existence. The Show & Order is just expanding their area. They're doing that well. In the end, competition is good for everybody. In a nutshell, you must never be arrogant. Every organiser has to keep making an effort with exhibitors, accommodating their wishes and cooperating effectively. Nobody is too big to fail. x

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mass approach to fashion –– what's the story

Welcome to the Mass Approach to Fashion While medium-sized retailers fight for spaces in city centres, residual stock utilisers like shopping clubs, factory outlet centres or surplus dealers are achieving high growth rates. The mass approach to fashion on a large scale is putting retailers under pressure. Text Ina Köhler Photos Retailers Illustration Andreas Klammt

xceptional circumstances in Roppenheim: At the end of April, in the small town in Alsace, which currently has 928 residents, everything was focused on the opening of a new fashion outlet centre. A reflection on the fashion market? Because, there too, everything seems to centre around professional utilisation of residual stock– the customers love it, the result is a place with constant bargains. Outlets in the city and in the countryside, shopping clubs, coupon portals and discount stores – the selection of distribution channels for discounted fashion has grown. Then, mass retailers like Amazon and Ebay are also getting on board the supposedly lucrative fashion business. Does this mean that the multi-brand store is falling by the wayside? ''I don't see Amazon and Ebay as a particular problem for retailers – for me, it's simply used too often as an easy excuse,'' says Mark Petereit of Snipes. ''Declining prices and a lack of quality distribution are definitely bad for products' quality-rating because the end consumer's view is contorted by the price. Which, in turn, has a negative effect on the retailers. In which case they are chasing their own tails, because most retailers use Ebay and Amazon as a platform and so are contributing themselves to the fact that their customers don't visit their store any more.'' In his opinion, multi-brand retailers have a special responsibility: ''Mass selling is a natural form of competition both on and offline, because of certain overlaps in product ranges. However, it's our duty to motivate our defined target customers to buy from us using attractive offers. The increase in goods on the market,

Fashion sales as mass-produced articles: Over-supply puts pressure on prices and teaches consumers to become bargain hunters.

especially among mail-order companies, is an issue for a lot of retailers. ''Clearly, more competition means more and more merchandise density, which is, of course, tangible in the market,''says Philipp Gramse of frontlineshop. ''But that is a development we have already been observing for some years. What's important is that we actively discuss this situation with suppliers: How can we reduce merchandise density, and avoid a situation where all retailers have the same product. The result would otherwise be that, at some stage, we could only sell things based on their prices. And that is neither in our interest, nor in the interest of the supplier.“ (Price) Information that is available all the time often puts individual retailers at a disadvantage, those who miss out on bargain sales figures – and so lose customers. ''A lot of my customers are no longer as open to new products,'' says Bardia Beigui from Supreme Agency. ''Customers don't order because they are simply interested in making savings. Competitors like Dressforless, Brands4Friends, vente-privee.com, Groupon or TK Maxx are eating away at sales figures. At the moment, smaller customers are not really reordering, ultimately, it's not happening.''

Residual Stock Utilisation For All Retailers must also think about how they market their leftover goods, without damaging their image. For example, Snipes has its own physical outlets in Frechen and Bonn, or sells goods on its own website. ''You can organise a clearance sale very discreetly or make it very eye-catching,'' says Petereit. ''We no longer want to display prices that are reduced by more than 50% in store, there, the outlet is a good way of selling them off cleanly.'' Zalando has created an innercity branch for itself with its outlet store in

Berlin-Köpenick. This is definitely necessary because the rate of returns is estimated by industry experts to be up to 70 per cent. In the high-end segment too, private outlets are a way of keeping showcase stores free of eye-catching reductions, for example in the case of Jades in Düsseldorf. ''Thanks to our outlets, we have a good way of selling off stock from the second season. This works very well in Düsseldorf and Berlin because we would theoretically be doing ourselves a disservice if we weren't careful,'' says Tanja Lehnertz, marketing manager at the agency Unifa. However, rather than turning to residual stock utilisation, a lot of retailers focus first on other priorities. For frontlineshop a major priority is to avoid leftovers: ''In the past, we invested a lot of time into management of the product life cycle, in order to avoid leftover stock and high reductions as much as possible,'' says Phillip Gramse. ''We want to achieve the highest possible sales ratio.'' For more than a year, Frontline has also been working together with Ebay and, as a strategic partner, has its own premium outlet on the portal. ''If the product can and should no longer be marketed on our site, then it's a good option, simply because Ebay has positioned itself as a fashion retailer. We have had good experiences with this arrangement,'' says Gramse. Surplus dealers act as the last link in the chain of those who sell-off leftover stock, whereby they are seen as controversial. ''Basically, you have to have a real stock problem to sell to surplus dealers,'' says Mark Petereit of Snipes. ''As a brand I understand it, but as a retailer it can't be seen in the margins. Here, you can better pass on the advantages to your own customers,'' he argues. The best solution would probably be less stock on the market, with retailers ordering

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what's the story –– mass approach to fashion

TK Maxx is only one of many bargain markets, in which branded goods are sold at reduced prices. Image: TK Maxx

less. However, the considerable pressure coming from brands to order goes against this. Mark Petereit sees a good share of the problem as being on the side of the supplier: How many products can the market swallow up without there being too much supply? Basically, the brands have to do their job and keep desirability high, even in the case of a commercial product.'' For him, a good example is the Converse Chuck Taylor in black – basically a mass product, because it exists in lots of channels in high numbers. ''Still, 2012 was a record year in terms of turnover for Converse,'' says Petereit. There are products for which it doesn't matter if there are 500 or 500,000 on the market.''

Factory Outlets and Shopping Clubs Are Growing 03

01 ''Buying behaviour has changed enormously. Yet, there are consumers who prefer individual concepts and brand portfolios and personal contact with the seller or unique design, to widely mass-produced concepts. The retailer's task is to fill these commercial niches, or create ones that are completely their own.'' Mark Petereit, Snipes

02 ''Clearly, more competition means more and more merchandise density, which is, of course, tangible on the market.“ Philipp Gramse, Frontlineshop

03 ''Thanks to our outlets, we have a good way of selling off stock from the second season. This works very well in Düsseldorf and Berlin.'' Tanja Lehnertz, Unifa Düsseldorf

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The expansion of lots of brands with their own shops in the inner cities is creating further merchandise density. This surplus stock goes, when the season is over, to several factory outlet centres. In the meantime, these act as both ''clean'' and profitable channels and are springing up in the countryside – from successful Roermond, to Wertheim and Ingolstadt, Metzingen and Maasmechelen, Berlin-Wustermark and Zweibrücken, or Roppenheim in Alsace. The Spanish retailer, Neinver's, factory outlet centre offers 107 stores on almost 30,000 square metres, from Adidas, to Guess and Quiksilver. At the same time, the Spaniards are also running The Style Outlet in Zweibrücken, one of the oldest factory outlet centres in Germany – 3.3 million visitors in 2011 and massive extensions to the retail space are indications of a successful model. Shopping clubs with permanently growing

sales figures are also a sign that there are more than enough goods on the market. The French online shopping club vente-privee. com is one of the most successful, and made more than a billion euros last year. In 2010, Amazon bought BuyVip, Ebay bought the Berlin company Brands4Friends. The Otto Group operates its own shopping club, Limango, and the list could go on indefinitely.

Feeling Good in the Rush for Bargains The unwanted side effect: Customers become completely conditioned to discounts and that's in the truest sense of the word. The scientists Willy Schneider and Alexander Hennig backed up the theory that customers can't defend themselves against their basic instincts. This is what they describe in their book ''To the checkout, bargain!'', discounts activate the gratification centre of the brain. ''Only 30 per cent of our purchase decisions are well thought out, 70 per cent are spontaneous,'' says Hennig, who teaches as a business studies professor at the Cooperative State University (DHBW) of Mannheim. The chain store TK Maxx uses this effect to its advantage. It has developed its inner-city network of branches massively and is opening the 56th branch in Saarbrücken in May. According to the company, TK Maxx promotes ''spontaneous buying'', and advertises in its branches using big brands that are reduced by at least 60 per cent. The US group behind TK Maxx, TJX Companies Inc. is the biggest off-price company in the world and, in 2011, it had an annual turnover of 23.2 billion US dollars. So, fat chance that the mass approach to fashion will disappear from billboards again in the foreseeable future. x

what's the story –– mass approach to fashion

grown up and we positioned ourselves as ''retail-like''. At the beginning of 2011, the Ebay fashion outlet featuring brand shops was introduced. These sell surplus goods, second season products and articles from overproduction with discounts of up to 70%. In order to make this more palatable for the end consumer and the fashion media, we have been creating LookBooks since 2011. Today, these show a mix of new stock and vintage products. We produced the current LookBook and the ''My Mix'' online campaign in cooperation with international bloggers like the Italian Eleonora Carisi and the New Yorker, Anda & Masha. We want to stir up curiosity within our target group, inspire them, and show that Ebay has more to offer than second hand goods. The mix does it!

''More Than Second Hand'' Ebay appeared at the last Fashion Week in Berlin with a relax lounge, and brought out an online fashion campaign with famous international bloggers. What does ebay expect from involvement in the fashion market? The online supplier is working on a change of image. Text Ina Köhler Photos ebay.com

hat does ebay expect from involvement in the fashion market? Is it about image or sales figures? Leonie Bechtoldt: The category of fashion, accessories and shoes is one of our strongest categories by far. When it comes to our public perception, we have undergone huge change. First, we began with second hand products, then, we became more

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How high is the proportion of fashion on Ebay? And how high is the share of new stock in comparison to second hand stock? 64 per cent of stock turnover are items with set prices. Commercial retailers' product ranges today make up 59 per cent of all items sold on ebay.de. In the fashion category, we have 7.67 million different users per month. Do you want to increase the share of new stock in the long-term? It's growing but we want to have a healthy mix . We are a platform, on which buyers and sellers meet. Vintage stock is therefore still important and individualism is a USP for Ebay. Where else can you buy goods, new and second hand, for a fixed price, or at auction, and then dress yourself accordingly? The Ebay fashion customer can style himself/ herself creatively Ebay works with a lot of brand stores, such as Eastpak, Runners Point, Buffalo, Görtz, Brands4Friends or Frontlineshop. How does cooperation with these retailers work? Do they pay a fee to Ebay? Yes, but here it's important that we have continued to develop in the meantime, and move away from the classic outlet way of thinking. At the moment, the sector is called Fashion Shop because the brands can display unreduced items and current products beside outlet products. In the classic fashion category, buyers also have the option of having individual product ranges made up for them. Ebay had a test run in London with a physical pop up shop, where you could scan items by QR code, buy them, and have them sent to your home. Is a physical

''We are a platform, on which buyers and sellers meet.'' Leonie Bechtoldt, ebay

store concept like this conceivable in this country too? We are still thinking it over. Mobile buying is a huge issue, for both buying and selling. We can imagine it happening in Germany, however not only in the capital Berlin, but in several cities. We see mobile commerce as an important trend. There are lots of possibilities and it is an exciting type of buying and selling with huge potential. Just as an example: Every five minutes a pair of women's shoes is bought on the German Ebay market place by means of a mobile app. x 01 Style-conscious: Ebay is focusing on the co-existence of vintage and new stock. 02 Leonie Bechtoldt works as Ebay's press officer for the fashion image of the platform.

Facts

The trading platform Ebay has existed in Germany since 1999. In 2011, the listed company had a turnover of 11.7 billion dollars and so made a profit of 3.2 billion dollars. In the first quarter of 2012, they achieved an increase in turnover of 29 per cent to 3.28 billion US dollars. Alongside the payment service provider Paypal, the firm also owns various different suppliers like e.g. mobile.de, or the shopping club Brands4Friends.

THE ROCK BREAD & BUTTER AIRPORT BERLIN-TEMPELHOF

www.breadandbutter.com

photo by ingo robin

04 – 06 July 2012

World Wide Away The unpopular grey area, in which residual stock utilisation happily dodges clear strategies, is being outsourced more and more. Solving problems with a click of the mouse. Less work, but also less control. Who clicks on your products how, and which model is more profitable than others? Text Isabel Faiss Illustration Frieder Schneider Photo Zitra

etting rid of residual stock online, by means of closed shopping clubs, was an ingenious coup. But then something happened that no one had read in the elaborate strategy descriptions of the club operators: despite radical discount campaigns, piles of goods remained unsold. The shopping club giant, Limango, was one of the first to solve this problem using the classic offline residual stock sale. Back to the good old warehouse sale with a bargain counter feel. And suddenly branded stock had arrived back where no one wanted to see it any more, in retail. Ever more wholesalers are therefore starting to take the issue into their own hands and establish their own residual stock platforms online. The most famous example is Otto, the biggest mail-order company in Europe, which sells surpluses, residual stock and returns on its website, Corso. Sales are made exclusively to wholesalers. The B2B trading platform, zitra.com, presents a similar platform, in which Tengelmann Ventures, a subsidiary of the Tengelmann Group, holds a 45 per cent stake. According to its own

34 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Click and away. The internet provides plenty of ways to solve the headache issue of residual stock utilisation.

data, Zitra concluded the first round of financing five months after its launch, with a figure in the mid-seven digit euro range (as of December 2011). Therefore, the success bears out the model. However, one sentence in the General Terms and Conditions is perplexing: ''Zitra, as a matter of principle, does not check if the offers appointed, by the sellers, and other content, such as data provided by sellers are legitimate, truthful and complete.'' Similar wording for all retailers. Which poses the question whether the model of the world wide clicking away of surpluses could have other side effects, apart from the boomerang risk, which are not apparent on the screen.

''We Are ProblemSolvers'' In July 2011, Frank Engel founded the B2B platform, Zitra, together with Phillip Kraft. In just one year, it has become the biggest free, online market place which focuses on providing goods from fashion, lifestyle and electronics to online traders, stores and outlets. His company has been taken over by gold rush fever. Mr. Engel, residual stock utilisation on the internet holds a certain risk because you have little control over where goods land and how they are treated. Are there any control mechanisms, or do you leave it to the market to regulate itself?

mass approach to fashion –– what's the story

www –––––––––– www.zitra.com

residual stock marketing and there is often no process for its marketing either. This means that it's often unpopular. For this reason, we don't want to create more work, rather a simple and effective solution by means of standardised processes for sellers, so that we take work off their hands. How do you see yourselves in comparison to platforms like Brands4Friends? Our business is clearly different to that of Brands4Friends. We work purely in the B2B field, and we aren't wholesale buyers, but rather problem-solvers. What we do have in common, is the marketing of goods that is compatible with the brands in question. This is definitely a unique feature in the B2B sector. Where otherwise you only find lists and prices, in the B2B field, we also present residual stock in a brand-compatible way and in a high-quality environment, because after all the stock is not 'bad'.

Frank Engel: That's right, marketing aimed at wholesale buyers is attractive for fashion brands, but it holds the risk of running into a few black sheep. In addition, it's a laborious business with difficult trading partners. Zitra solves this problem because sellers don't just get access to thousands of tested buyers but they can also refuse to carry out a transaction with a buyer. So, the seller has the last word. Controlling the resale of goods and end customer prices on the basis of guidelines is unfortunately possible neither for sellers, nor for us. The only thing that helps here is systematic selection of buyers. But how do you argue against sellers' concrete risks and fears in practice? Often, there is no one who is given the permanent responsibility of looking after

What role does trust play in your business? A very big one because the residual stock market would otherwise be labelled as a grey market. There are many dubious business partners at work here. So, we don't just check our buyers, but also every seller who joins the platform. We ensure e.g. a buyer guarantee of over 10,000 euros. We couldn't do this if we weren't sure of receiving original stock with provable histories at guaranteed delivery times. How has the handling of excess stock and surpluses changed as a result of the internet? A lot, because an offer is now potentially available all over the world and can be immediately presented to several thousand buyers at home and abroad by newsletter. We go one step further and identify the demand in the market in order to be able to buy and sell according to our targets.

Do you see big growth potential for your business model? Yes, the German market alone is gigantic. We value the market here at an annual volume of more than seven billion euros, in segments relevant to us. For Europe as a whole, you can multiply this figure many times over. If you take eCommerce growth alone and the development of returned goods as a benchmark, this market will also increase significantly in coming years. We were awarded the ''Red Herring Europe Award'' for our ''Disruptive Business Model'' and fast growth. Are there special services for fashion customers? Yes, we work with experts from the industry. We have specialised staff for every category, who know what they are talking about and can speak with buyers and sellers from fashion on their level. In addition, we also offer credit control and can take over the whole sales process. Excess stock utilisation is an unpopular subject. How do you advertise your platform? Of course, it is of great concern to us that we inform the heads of fashion companies about this subject, which is unfortunately often neglected. The subject usually only becomes interesting if it becomes a burning issue. In other words, if things aren't going well, then they realise what dead capital is lying in storage. However, if they managed to create early processes for selling off slow-movers and leftovers, then a well-run company has an additional sales channel and enough liquidity. x Frank Engel is the founder of the online market platform Zitra.

''We value the market here at an annual volume of more than seven billion euros. For Europe as a whole you can multiply this figure many times over.'' Frank Engel, Zitra GmbH

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Mobility and modernity – with really innovative products, the industry could capture the hearts and minds of consumers. Photo: Commuter Jeans by Levi‘s.

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communicate –– what's the story 01

Communicate! For decades, jeans have been the epitome of youth culture and rebellion, inextricably liked with the music, film and entertainment industries, an innovative force. However, recently it's become incredibly quiet. Does the industry have nothing more to say? Text Ina Köhler

03 ''We invest a huge amount in these Laser Wash events, to show not only the buyers, but particularly the sellers, how the product works. Because they, in turn, must pass this on to the customers.“ Thomas Wirth, Replay

Photos Labels

he end of April 2012, in London: Managing director Lee Kun-hee presents the new Samsung Smartphone Galaxy S3. The staging resembles a rock event – and makes it onto the news at prime time. The procedure is copied from Apple head Steve Jobs, who regularly presented his product innovations like a new world religion. With success – their fan base today neither buys the cheapest, nor the most technologically advanced device, rather the promise of a nicer and better life with an iPod, iPhone or iPad. The purchase is an emotional decision, nothing to do with reason. As a fashion brand, we can learn a lot from this. However, what staging of fashion can still manage to capture the hearts and minds of consumers? It ought to have been easy to take on themes. This was not the case – the era when TV advertisement spots were dominated by jeans brands, music charts and clearance sales is over.

The Era of Cult Products- Over? Clothes and accessories are the most emotional products there are. By means of what we wear directly on our bodies, we

non-verbally communicate our preferences, values and attitude to life. But what the 501 was in the past, the smartphone or the bike is now: powerful competitors for the sector. As a result, the product has developed an incredible amount: Jeans from 1992 and 2012 are worlds apart. New possibilities for washes and adaptations, innovative materials and new cut and colour techniques have improved the product enormously and, more than anything, have individualised it. Then there's eco-balance – beginning with water consumption, all the way to toxin-free colouring methods. However, hardly anyone dares to come out of the woodwork and speak about it definitively. At the Munich Fabric Start in February 2012 alone, about 500 organic materials were displayed. How much of this resonates consciously with the consumer, not to mention appearing on the news? The car industry's three-litre car hung around in the headlines for years, although there were only a few models. Three-litre jeans with an ozone wash are made by numerous manufacturers – but hardly any consumers know about them.

04 ''The G-Star design philosophy is moving beyond jeans, that is, to denim art objects.'' Shubankar Ray, G-Star

05 ''Shoes pose a particular challenge in terms of product design. Yet, the industry continues to surprise us with its creativity.'' Kirstin Deutelmoser, GDS & Global Shoes

02 01 Protoypes that lead to new products: G-Star experiments with denim objects. 02 Unusual design stirs up emotions - even shoe designers take more risks than many clothing companies. Design: Julian Hakes

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01 01 02-03

However, if you look more closely, then you discover a whole host of exciting themes. In spring, Relay presented its new laser blast collection, first in Milan and then the rest of Europe. The laser technology, originally pushed by Francois Girbaud using the phrase watt wash, is, in fact, not brand new but is finding its way into product ranges in a big way, like at Replay: ''From our point of view, the technical craftsmanship and its result, which radiates passion, is amazing thanks to this technology, which I like to characterise as gentle, in that it is environmentally-friendly,'' says Matteo Singaglia, CEO of Fashion Box. In Germany, we presented the technology to retailers in a road show. ''We invest a great amount in these events, to show not only the buyers, but particularly the sellers, how the product works. Because they, in turn, must pass this on to the customers.“ says the managing director in Germany, Thomas Wirth. In addition, there are events in retail that present the laser technology to end consumers using a machine on site. Pepe is scoring with a similar topic: The TruBlu collection doesn't use any chemicals in the washing process and reduces water consumption with its ozone wash. However, Uwe Boser, managing director in Germany,

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Successful living in the truest sense of the word: Diesel now also stands for living environments. Laser technology is inspiring a host of companies like Replay (below) or Pepe (above) to new collections – but it's important to also communicate this to the consumer.

Who Is Filling the Agenda?

acknowledges after their initial experiences: ''First and foremost, the visual appearance of the wash must be right, only then will people be interested in how it's made.'' Sustainability is one core issue, mobility another: Levi's have developed so-called commuter jeans with functional features for urban bikers, which still look like proper jeans. ''The idea came from our designers in San Francisco, where a lot of people use bikes,'' says Christian Meister of Levi's public relations department. Since April, the product has been in a handful of Levi's stores and at the specialist retailer Stilrad, the second collection will follow in July. It went down well when it was publicised: ''Right away, we had an above average response from the media. It reflects the general need for mobility in society,'' says Meister. A small idea with big results – perhaps because it is coupled with one of the classic innovative issues: Mobility.

Is Fashion a Product Which Has Been Exhausted? Some brands are moving beyond the fashion horizon, brands which offer crossover products, such as G-Star with its furniture collection Prouvé Raw Furniture, created in cooperation with the furniture

manufacturer Vitra. G-Star's Global brand director Shubankar Ray says: ''Within these projects, our functional design aesthetic meets product development. This leads to unexpected associations and unique products. These – like the G-Star collection – are based on industry classics and modern design, beyond trends and fast fashion.'' Alongside furniture, G-Star also cooperates with manufacturers like Land Rover and Cannondale. Feedback to fashion is desirable. ''The G-Star design philosophy goes beyond jeans, into objects of denim art. So, the Skeleton Dogs are part of a

communicate –– what's the story

series of denim objects, which convey our search for new ergonomic shapes in denim and design,'' says Ray. Originating from this experiment, we are now implementing product lines like Arc Jeans. Diesel, too, has made a name for itself with other products beyond fashion and, in its home collection Successful Living from Diesel, it displays lights, furniture and kitchens that have been developed in cooperation with manufacturers like Foscarini, Moroso and Scavolini. If you extend your search for new products to footwear, you come up against new obstacles: It's even more difficult to bring in real innovations into footwear, because the limited shape of the shoe leaves little room for manoeuvre. ''Shoes present a particular challenge,'' says Kirstin Deutelmoser, Director of GDS & Global Shoes. ''All shoe models must offer a minimum functionality to be at all wearable. Despite this, the industry continues to surprise us with its creativity. An example of excellent design is, for example, the Mojito by architect Julian Hakes.

A Question of Communication Just like the jeans industry, the shoe industry is fighting an image, which is not always the cleanest, for which it needs new strategies: ''The company Snipe didn't just develop the first traditionally manufactured shoe that is up to one hundred per cent compostable, but also went into distribution in new ways,'' says Kirstin Deutelmoser. ''Retailers could order the shoe, but would get to see it only on delivery. Recycling, conserving resources, sustainability – there would be a lot to say, because the consumer is interested in this area. But what big company can claim to communicate transparently, where and under what conditions it produces? Recent years have brought with them a host of certifications, which have not made transparency any better. This causes a fatigue effect among consumers – not only in the denim industry. Maud von Hoff, press officer at ispo Munich also says: ''We have focused on sustainability for a long time and we still do. But , we have to keep communicating about new themes, otherwise a theme wears out at a certain stage. In the field of sports, there are certain companies who have turned over very good products. However, here too, we have to be careful about communicating this. Consumers are very sensitive, and if someone promises something that they can't fulfil, it comes back at them like a boomerang.“ x

''Not a Small, Short Flash in the Pan'' Joachim Baumgartner is a trend expert for the fabric trade fair in Munich, Fabric Start. x-ray spoke with him about sustainability, innovations and the role of jeans in the fashion industry. Interview Ina Köhler Photo Munich Fabric Start

hy has fashion become less of a driver of innovation than, for example, the mobile communications or car industry? Joachim Baumgartner: I don't exactly see it that way. Currently, there are lots of innovative approaches in fashion, you just have to look at a few examples from recent international shows. For example, how brilliantly the Balenciaga designer Nicolas Ghesquière linked retro and the future, that is unique. Or how the Japanese designer Tsumori Chisato brings folklore, active sport and nature together, I don't know of anything like this in the other industries. That the media doesn't really perceive fashion as a driver of innovation, can be linked to the fact that fashion has become more of a consumer product – also because today everyone can afford fashion. In the past, jeans were a symbol of rebellion and innovation. Why have they lost this image? Because they are integrated everywhere, in fashion, culturally, sociologically, stylistically. As soon as something is everywhere, you can no longer rebel with it. It also doesn't seem like jeans will ever reach this status again. They are too popular for that, even if there are fluctuations. What role does sustainability play in trends? Is it still important? Of course it's still important. In my opinion, it is a muted long-term trend and not a flash in the pan. Here, sustainability is, in the meantime, more of a mind-set than a visual trend. Nowadays, no one wants the stamp

of the environment imposed on them. Sustainability and fashion are no longer mutually exclusive. This is portrayed beautifully by the certified materials that Munich Fabric Start presents every season. ''Cost-effective materials can be integrated into all collections in principle. They are no longer inferior to other materials in terms of colour or refinement. They are just a little more expensive and obviously more complicated to handle and price. How is sustainability implemented in the industry? Can we see progress here? Progress has definitely been made. Almost every company is dealing intensively with this subject. Just three examples of innovations: 1. There are new natural viscose fibres made from leaves. 2. Laser finishing has since been better developed and is being used more and more. It is replacing other finishing techniques that are damaging to the environment. 3. Certified printing techniques are now opening the way for printing in this area. How is the issue of sustainability discussed with the consumer? This is the crucial point. There has been too little publicity, perhaps for fear of speaking badly of jeans from traditional production. But the end consumer is educated about the issue and can, in the meantime, inform himself well on the internet, for example on the website biokleidung.org. x

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„Volkov bojatjsja - v les ne hoditj.“ He who fears thorns, should keep clear of bushes. One of the most common tips you hear from sales managers, who know know the Russian market is always: Play fair. The predicted potential of this market is pretty much balanced out by the high demands and unexpected surprises for foreign companies.

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Foreign countries, foreign customs –– what's the story

Foreign Countries, Foreign Customs

The Russian understanding of fashion has high entertainment value, at least the image that is portrayed to the outside world. But it‘s not these clichés that place the country at the centre of the expansion plans of international fashion brands. It‘s the huge potential for growth, the brand awareness of a new middle-class, and the appeal of entering a new market which is once again being praised like before. Text Isabel Faiss Photos CPM, ADenim, Dockers, Camper

uddenly, the image of a scampering horseman appears, he‘s racing up a small hill. When he reaches the top, he jumps off the horse. With great conviction he rams the pole into the ground. A sunset in the background, fanfare off-stage. ‚‘Russia is cowboy country. First come, first serve. It‘s all about being the first to plant your flag,‘‘ says Marco Lanowy, managing director of ADenim, clearly one of the biggest reasons why the Russian market is still an El Dorado for many European brands. Miguel Fluxa, CEO and owner of Camper also has good advice for all who are playing around with the idea of entering this market: "The sooner, the better.‘‘

Everyone is raving about how the fashion business there is still pure and original, where real retailers design product ranges and whose highest goal is to offer their customers, whom they know very well, a service that meets their needs. With the ambition of selling their goods at a price. No own brands. Despite double-digit growth rates in the mailorder business business in physical stores has still not been compromised. No marketing restrictions. Brands can and even should be more than just present. While on the German market you have to bargain for every square centimetre of attention and presentation space, in Russia there is still a lot of potential,‘‘ says project manager at CPM, Christian Kasch. ‚‘The changes in the construction of exhibition stands is a good symbol for how the market has changed in recent years. In the past, it was simply important for brands to be seen in Moscow. Today, things like image and

stand design are much more central. Made in Germany, is still a mark of quality, despite this, the brands want to position themselves on the market in a much more target-group orientated way then before. So, step by step, more and more segments are appearing.‘‘ In March, the Collection Première Moscow made a record in their ninth year with 19,100 professional visitors. About 20 per cent of the whole exhibition area was taken up by German companies, a figure which is ever-increasing. 23.4 per cent of the professional visitors came from the jeans segment alone. After the considerable slump in 2008 and 2009, Russia recovered faster than expected. And the jolt also had positive effects, because the market spread out more evenly into its price segments. The low and mid-price segment is growing faster than before the crisis. The market has become professional. The initial start-up euphoria of 2002 to 2007, where, according to the European Fashion and the Textile Export Council, market volumes quadrupled is over. It has shifted down a gear. The initial shortdistance records have now been exchanged for a long-distance route. It still holds about 143 million potential customers.

Out of the Country The study by the Moscow market research company Market Masters came out at the beginning of 2012 and rearranged the current image of Russian fashion retail: the market is growing more in the individual provinces than it is in the two metropolises of Moscow and St. Petersburg. 53 per cent of fashion retail came from eleven big cities with only about one million residents, only 18 per cent

01 „You should never be arrogant in Russia, or go into this market overestimating yourself. Rather, you must listen carefully.‘‘ Marco Lanowy, ADenim

02 „Russia is a world of it‘s own, they dance to a different tune there. Lots of things that we can easily do here in Europe are sometimes problematic in Russia.‘‘ Christian Kasch, CPM 03 „The biggest challenge in our industry is to say no. Particularly in Russia, it‘s important to be patient and to wait for the right customers or partners.‘‘ Manilo Massa, Managing Director of Antony Morato

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04 „The number of Russians who have higher than average purchasing power is growing. The percentages of demand for foreign products are increasing accordingly.‘‘ Tomas Schmidt, Dockers

05 „The Russian consumer is greedy for international quality products. They expect goods with the highest possible quality standards. “ Miguel Fluxa, CEO Camper

came from Moscow and 13 from St. Petersburg. Despite this, in talks with marketing experts, figures of between 200 and 300 doors are still mentioned, which, per segment, is realistic for this gigantic country. Although Russian retail is growing in the field of multibrand stores in particular. ‚‘Multi-brand stores

42 ––

are much more present in the cities than they used to be. Particularly thanks to a new generation of buyers, who travel around a lot and bring with them many influences from abroad, the existing structures have changed quite a bit,‘‘ says Christian Kasch. Big department stores like Moscow‘s Holding Center or MoDaMo are seeing more and more competition from chain stores like Marks & Spencer or the Inditex Group, but also from domestic chain stores, whose market share is already over 50 per cent (Esper Group, 2011). ‚‘There are very cool and original shops on the Russian market. It‘s a new trend to build up your own store structures, which form your own corporate identity. We are living in very exciting times at the moment. The retailers are open to anything that supports them. At the moment, shop in shop concepts and close cooperation at PoS are very popular,‘‘ says Marco Lanowy. When ADenim entered the market in Russia, which happened almost at the same time as the brand launch, it profited from its parent group Alberto‘s ten years of experience and the groundwork it had done as a result of this. "This market is changing rapidly and has also opened up a completely new jeans market. For brands that are still young, the jeans segment currently offers them huge opportunities to establish themselves there. To date, we have not been far off the goals we set for ourselves." As a German company, we

have been receiving early praise, especially when it comes to reliability. So, ADenim‘s goals are: "We want to be a completely predictable partner for Russian retailers. This constitutes delivery dependability and the service of delivering the right product, with which sales can be made. Our task is to listen to the market and to define its characteristics. We are making a product from the market for the market. Therefore, it‘s especially important to listen,‘‘ says Marco Lanowy.

Status Symbol Brand It‘s a paradox of sorts that Russia is one of the biggest textile producers in the world, but at the same time the industry hasn‘t yet managed to establish domestic brands. Demand for international brands is too high. ‚‘When Russia opened its borders, brand recognition increased enormously and was mainly directed at European brands,‘‘ says Tomas Schmidt, vice president of commercial operations at Dockers. "The retail structure is characterised by the current generation, which is active in purchasing and sales there. That then translates into a significantly bigger vision in subsequent generations. That is a situation in which Germany found itself years ago. Brands are still status symbols, once again they represent prosperity. Therefore, foreign brands play a very important role,‘‘ he says. Dockers‘ collection has developed in recent

Foreign countries, foreign customs –– what's the story

industry, the biggest challenge is to say no. And not to be tempted come, and to refuse one day deals that can‘t last for long. Sometimes that means saying yes to a smaller firm rather than a big reference customer. For us, on the Russian market, more than anything it‘s about being patient and focusing on the right customers. As a young firm, we have to set certain rules for our partners and be able to trust that they act accordingly. For this, we need the right partner, not only in Russia.‘‘

Beware of overestimating yourself

years from trouser specialists into a complete look, and depends more on its own stores to present the look and feel of the brand. Dockers also benefits from the fact that its big brother Levi‘s is already established on the Russian market with 40 stores. ‚‘We are spoiled by Russia because it is a completely different situation when it comes to competition. In Germany, you no longer get applauded for presenting innovative cuts. In Germany, we also have huge competition with own brands. In Russia, customers specifically seek out foreign brands. Even though the customers know that they pay more for them,‘‘ says Schmidt. "The general population of Russia maybe has lower purchasing power than we are used to, but this top-end which is spoken about a lot is very big and no longer focuses on high fashion brands. It is a very important market for Dockers. All brands that we see as competition, are either at the starting blocks or are already there."

The Market Does Not Forgive Mistakes “The Russian market is a difficult market. In my opinion, it is not possible to deal with it from the outside. The most important thing of all is a partner on site, who knows that you can‘t make mistakes,‘‘ says Christian Kach of CPM, which helps with the acquisition of professional partners in the Russian market through

its website (information on www.cpmmoscow.com - trade show/service). Miguel Fluxa from Camper confirms that the huge potential that is attributed to this market is defined, more than anything, by how cleverly you choose your partners on the ground. Since 2005, the Spanish shoe specialist has been represented on the Russian market and mainly relies on its own stores for this. “In contrast to the European market, we are only represented in our own stores in Russia and we don‘t work much in cooperation with retailers. Our initial expectations have barely changed to date. So, there was no rude awakening or the like. Our goal, as always, is to establish ourselves as a leading brand in the premium casual sector. Our brand recognition has risen continuously and visibility in the most important shopping streets is also developing positively.‘‘ At the same time, Camper also had to contend with local tricky issues, which related particularly to the requirements with respect of the products: What is possibly the most important difference to the European market is the tough winter in Russia. This meant for us that we needed to modify some of our models, so that they could withstand the difficult conditions on the ground.‘‘ Manilo Massa is managing director at the Italian menswear label Antony Morato, which defined expansion to Russia as one of the big goals for the near future. “In our

The question hangs in the room and demands an answer: The number of Russians who are so wealthy that are they actually looking for a European image boost in this market, is a small elite. And this is traditionally devoted to high fashion brands with eye-catching branding. So does this market actually have the expected potential for products in the midprice segment? Can products exist here that, like shoes by Camper, convey a good deal of philosophy through muted design language? "Of course there is the potential. Particularly in Moscow and St. Petersburg a broad middleclass with huge buying power has appeared, in recent years in the course of economic development,‘‘ says Miguel Fluxa. “If price structures develop from very cheap to very expensive, then all levels of the population for textiles are covered, like in our market. This is exactly how this market will develop. However, one challenge is that, in Russia, whole districts don‘t have any need for regeneration. There, you can‘t go in overestimating yourself and thinking you can turn the market upside down. You need the will to grow with the country, to listen carefully and then to define possibilities within this. Otherwise you will be out as fast as you go in,‘‘ confirms Marco Lanowy. x

01 No bling or showers of rhinestones. For the young generations, foreign brands are status symbols in themselves, so no additional pageantry is needed. 02 The trouser specialist Dockers is benefiting from the groundwork already done by its big brother Levi’s.

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Darling Denim? Denim – once everybody’s darling in the product line, has been suffering a minor crisis for the past few seasons – Chino and Co. were in competition, women especially were unfaithful to the labels. How did the denim trade deal with this? Did it benefit or did it go empty-handed? And when will the next big denim wave arrive? Text Ina Köhler Photos Kaltenbach, Fast Forward, U1 by Wöhrl, Yeans Halle 01

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the classic jeans shop –– what's the story

The Traditionalist

Norbert Kaltenbach, owner of Jeans Kaltenbach in Munich, remodelled part of his shop in spring in order to increase the percentage of denim. A clear statement in times when the blue classic isn't exactly at the forefront. "What we want is to have an even stronger denim line in the fashion department in the basement", says the owner Norbert Kaltenbach. "We've increased the ratio of denim to 65 per cent, from autumn this will grow further to 70 per cent." He is relying on greater demand from autumn. "We've been in the business for many years and in our experience, right at the point when denim is generally weak in the market, experts like us can profit", says Norbert Kaltenbach. That's when competition isn't very high and customers look for denim products from specialists. "We also think it's important to have different lengths in stock - at least two lengths for men and three different lengths for women", says Kaltenbach. "Most customers are looking for jeans with us, not so much tops", says Kaltenbach. As a result, losses in the hard winter of 2011/12 weren't so great. The price structure has now zeroed in and changed slightly: "The 49 euros price level has disappeared with the men," says Kaltenbach. "Men don't pay so much attention to price when buying, they go up to about 149 euros. Women are more likely to look at the price. Price levels between 69 and 99 euros are usually very strong here. More expensive models really only sell well when they have something special to offer." With men, the classic jeans wall plays a key role:

01 Specialists for jeans since 1953: Jeans Kaltenbach keeping the denim faith. 02 Fashion is at the forefront at Fast Forward – Denim is an important part of this. 03 U1 by Wöhrl has relied on denim from the start – even when quotas were cut back.

"Particularly in the classic range, which needs a lot of advice, we still work with it a lot", says Kaltenbach. By contrast, the walls are broken up by presentations in the fashion area. The customers want to serve themselves here and don't need as much service even though this is a high priority with the jeans specialist "We invest a great deal in sales training, our instructors train every week. On request, customers can reorder their model and NOS follows once or twice a week. Jeans Kaltenbach in Munich was founded in 1953, the shop's sales area in the Herzogspitalstrasse is around 800 square metres. In January, the company's Fashion Men department was extended - with even more jeans and a greater variety of cuts, washings, labels and lengths.

and coloured Five-Pockets will still continue to perform but I think denim will have a lot of things going for it in the autumn again. We have greatly strengthened the denim range, and as well as taking up with new suppliers, we've also strengthened the classics. We now have more width in the range as well as more depth." As part of the decline in denim, brand awareness has also changed it is generally much more pronounced: "It's more important to boys to be wearing a label than it is for girls - it's not quite a disinterest, but their share is just smaller. If the label isn't so important then other criteria play a role such as quality, style and price. One of my assignments was to create a pricing structure with U1." This started at 49 euros with vertical labels, the key players positioned at 100

The All-Rounder The U1, the young progressive department in the Wöhrl clothing chain has relied on denim labels since time immemorial. Two years ago, Andreas Zimanyi took over the department as Area Manager. "The denim sector had already declined at that point. Then along came the Chino and colour wave and we adapted the range accordingly. We took out some of the jeans labels when they weren't as strong. That did hurt a little bit but from an economic perspective, it was certainly the right decision. Nevertheless, denim had an important part to play over the last two years, it was just smaller." But, like his colleagues, he also sees development turning in the other direction again: "Chino

"When denim is weaker in the market then we as experts can profit from this." Norbert Kaltenbach, Jeans Kaltenbach

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what's the story –– the classic jeans shop

The Yeans Halle relies on visible competence and a broad selection of denim.

Schahied Herbawi founded his Fast Forward company in 1997 and manages 13 branches in cities such as Hamburg, Berlin, Potsdam, Leipzig and Dresden which have an average size of about 300 square metres. The range focuses on fashionable denim labels and shoes including such labels as Pepe, Sixty, G-Star, Diesel, Scotch & Soda and Adidas.

euros up to Diesel with a price level up to 249 euros. In-between, labels such as LTB or Mavi find a niche. There are 28 of the young U1 departments in a total of three sizes: Nuremberg is the largest with 3,500 square metres. Then, the focus houses such as Würzburg, Berlin, Augsburg and Ingolstadt. Wöhrl has base houses in medium-sized cities which have a more commercial set-up. Denim is an important area with U1, listing such key players as G-Star or Pepe.

The Experts

The Fashionable For Fast Forward, the trading company based in Berlin, working with jeans labels has been at the forefront for a long time, even when the range's blue quota was only around 30 to 40 per cent. The rest revolves around fashionable goods and shoes. "We fall over ourselves to take the fashionable denim label collections", says District Manager Isabelle Mosig. "In addition, we also work with short-term programmes." She also observed that labels were more important to men last season than they were to women. "Men are more brand-loyal, women buy more according to style and are more open to new trends because of this." Nevertheless, they haven't stopped believing in denim. "Our customers know what to expect from us and it's definitely our expertise in all things denim." The interior decoration emphasises this. From the summer, the branch in Berlin's Alexa will be supplied with so-called Denim Cubes which will be placed in the centre of the room and show the depth of the range. The price range is also rather moving upwards too - starting at around 100 euros for men and women. The company is also additionally planning to open the Fast Forward Black concept in the Alexa. "What we've found is that our somewhat older customers are looking for more high-quality styles which we want to present in a bit more of a boutique style", says 'Isabelle Mosig. "This will be a kind of creative playground with special collections from our suppliers."

46 ––

01 "Denim had an important part to play over the last two years, it was just smaller." Andreas Zimanyi, U1/Wöhrl

02 "Men are more brand-loyal, women buy more according to style and are more open to new trends because of this." Isabelle Mosig, Fast Forward

03 "Our credo is that every customer should find a suitable pair of jeans with us." Thomas Kuhnhäuser, Yeans Halle

In South Germany, particularly in BadenWurttemberg, the Yeans Halle represents concentrated jeans expertise with a denim ratio of more than 50 per cent. "Our credo is that every customer should find a suitable pair of jeans with us", says Thomas Kuhnhäuser, responsible for purchasing. But even the Yeans Halle felt the heat of change: "Last year, turnover moved more in favour of flat woven fabrics, particularly in womenswear". That also had an impact on the price ranges as the end consumers were more price-sensitive, particularly with non-denim. "Nevertheless, this season will see an upswing in denim again, even with higher prices. New shapes and washings are in demand", says Kuhnhäuser. "It pays off that people see us as specialists. What works in our favour is when other people are breaking down whole denim departments." In the autumn, another 1,800 square metre large branch focusing on jeans will be opening in Darmstadt. "We can show just how wide our expertise is there and this will also include our great visual denim presence", says Kuhnhäuser. Service such as alteration facilities or intensive consultations are perfectly natural for him here, too and something that underlines the expertise as a specialist. "This is expensive, but in the end, it pays off." There are 14 branches and three outlets in South Germany under the Yeans Halle name - sizes vary from 500 to 4,000 square metres of retail space. The company was founded by Horst Mühlberger and has been selling jeans since 1977. It's core range include labels such as Diesel, Replay, G-Star, Hilfiger Denim, Levi’s or Mustang. x

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a retailer as a brand –– what's the story

My Store, My Friend How does a retailer become a brand and its store an institution? How does it manage to become the number one place to be for a young public? Because it's not only the personality of the owner that counts, but also chemistry with customers. Text Nicoletta Schaper

WWW –––––––––– www.highfive-skateshop.de www.chicas-boardshop.de www.ozone-sports.com

Photos Retailers Illustration Andre Sanchez

ielefeld, Bahnhofstraße. A highlyfrequented shopping mile with the usual, boring chain stores. Not exactly the right place for a hip store with an individual product range deliberately sought out by its fans. However, those who are in the know go through a simple wooden door and turn their backs on the mainstream. A long corridor leads to the second Ozone store in Bielefeld, with a young skate product range opened by André Lösekann in 2009. ''Its location on the pedestrian mile was ultimately wrong for our target customers,'' he says. But the wooden door which gives it the effect of being hidden away and which we thought up as a temporary arrangement, hit the spot.'' André Lösekann is well versed in the business of young fashion. In 1989, he opened his first store by the name of Brooks, with brands like Diesel, Replay and Chevignon and later Carhartt, G-Star and Caterpillar. To add to this, almost ten years later came Ozone with a range of skater products on 40 square metres. The shop got about and soon there was not only an Ozone in Bielefeld, but also, under the management of partners, in five other cities such as Essen, Dortmund and Rostock. Up until 2004, the product range in the Ozone in Bielefeld was more or less reserved for skaters. Then, André Lösekann integrated the Brooks concept into the Ozone store and shifted the focus of the product range onto upper streetwear at a new location spanning 214 square metres. Not least, in order to open up the store to a wider audience. This worked out very well but the store was leaving the young target group further and further behind. Lösekann wanted to change this with the new Ozone for younger shoppers.

The Sub-culture Is Dead, the Scene Lives On But today the scene is different. This is also clear to Tatjana Bruss, who opened her Chicas Boardshop in Munich with snowboarding, surfing and skate brands for girls in 2004, at a time when there were only skate shops for boys and a product range like this was a real rarity. The number of boardsports brands for girls has increased hugely, at the same time fashion in general has become less sporty, and a lot more elegant. This means stronger competition on the market. ''Most skate shops are taking women's things out of their product ranges completely because it is difficult to keep up with H&M and Zara nowadays,'' says Tatjana Bruss. ''Many young girls buy there because the fashion is fast and cheap and they maybe only wear the things three or four times. This has already changed fashion appreciation.''

biggest competition is Titus. Lots of kids shop there, the product range is big and the store, located near the main station, is easy to get to. Those who know what's what go to Hanover Linden to High Five. The owners Dennis Laaß und Oliver Albrecht are skateboarders in their hearts and souls and are actively involved in the Hanover skateboarding scene. This makes them role models and makes their store all the more authentic, their store which has a product range including labels like Cleptomanicx,

Chicas Boardshop by Tatjana Bruss, for everyone who feels an affinity with boardsports.

Youth Work It's not much easier when it comes to boys. For High Five skate shop in Hanover, their

''In the past, the boardsports scene identified itself as a group through their clothing, but the kids don't feel part of the scene any more. I'd like to change that.'' Tatjana Bruss,Owner of Chicas & Chicos Boardshop –– 49

Ozone in Bielefeld hits the spot for its target group.

Trap, DVS, Zoo York and Globe. ''A lot of over 18 year-olds come from the surrounding villages. They travel across half the city to get here,'' says Dennis Laaß. ''Customers are very-well informed through Facebook and know almost exactly what they want. But when it comes to shoes and boards I go for it, there I like to tell people something about the background of the brands. I sell in a way that I know. I want to come across reasonably.'' For him, this also means being honest. he prefers to explain to his customer that he doesn't need ball bearing cream for his board for a long time yet, instead of simply selling it to him. ''Behind the counter, I am the one who can give the customer something,'' says professional skater Laaß. ''I don't want to sell him any old rubbish, I want to do it right.'' The prices too are appropriate to the young target group. Trousers cost 80 euros maximum at High Five, there are also T-shirts for less than 30 euros and shoes should cost no more than 100 euros. The atmosphere at High Five is laid-back. The TV

50 ––

showing skate videos in the lounge is a must for Dennis Laaß, even if some have said to him that it's not very beneficial in terms of sales figures. As well as this, High Five also allows small skate sessions to take place in the 85 square metre store. ''The store should become a platform, a base where people meet,'' explains the owner. High Five is only in the early stages of this process, the store will be three years old in October. But it's already adding up. ''Here, buyers are still treated as customers, that contributes to our personality,'' says Laaß. ''We hope that we can maintain this in the future.''

Institution ZigZag in Gütersloh has been in business longer, a store which has not tied itself down to any one target group. Phillip Pelster opened in 2001 and ten years later moved up a few houses on the same street. He is expanding to 300 square metres with brands like Carhartt, Nudie, Irie Daily, Cheap Monday, Reell, Eleven Paris and Boombap.

Two months after the move, the new location is already paying dividends. On the one hand, as a result of the big car park behind the building, which makes shopping at ZigZag easier. On the other hand, thanks to the bus stop right in front of the door which means that lots of kids who come from the nearby school pass the time in ZigZag while waiting for the bus. ''Today, many already know exactly what they want,'' says Peer Blomberg, who is responsible for buying. For example, coloured Skinny Jeans and a simple T-shirt for skaters as we all as for fashion enthusiasts. ''We regularly post new things on Facebook, the frequency is extremely high. In the afternoon, kids then come to try things on.'' For Gütersloh, ZigZag is an institution and that's not only when it comes to brands, but also the friendly environment which is important to the operators. ''I don't act like a salesperson, more like a mate,'' says Peer Blomberg. ''It's important, not to just think about numbers, but to deal with the young customers. Even if nothing suits someone,

a retailer as a brand –– what's the story

I'd prefer to say to him: Come back in in two weeks, then we'll have something new. It gets around that we're honest.'' The furniture also remained simple after the move. ''There's nothing off-the-shelf here, our signature must remain recognisable,'' says Peer Blomberg. ''We do everything ourselves, if we didn't, it would seem strange. The people love us because we're real.'' Peer Blomberg and Phillip Pelster notice this with their loyal regular customers, who still buy from them in Gütersloh, even if they have moved to Berlin or Hamburg to study. The stock may also be there, but here they feel like they're visiting a friend.

Part of the Scene Tatjana Bruss of Chicas Boardshop also focuses on personality. She posts her widelyacclaimed favourite outfits on Facebook and she also displays them on her online shop chicas-boardshop.de. She displays the goods by wearing them herself, or on staff and customers, who have expressed an interest in doing it. ''Having a display window on the internet is important, it does a lot for us,'' she says. The online competition is big and the fact that sought-after brands can be bought on the big online shops makes it even more difficult for physical core shops. ''You can get the items everywhere, there is twice as much stock on the market because suppliers thought they could double their turnover,'' criticises Tatjana Bruss. ''But this didn't bring about any more consumers.'' For her, this means that she has to focus even more on service. Anyone who shops in her store likes to forget the time, rummages through the products and gets recommendations for new outfits, like a feminine top by Element with skinny jeans by Nikita, which she hangs together in the changing room. A little like with a best friend – the customers like this. On average, they are aged between 20 and 30. In addition, Tatjana Bruss is no longer just focusing on one thing and has developed her product range for boys online and in her shop. Anyone who wants to remain part of the scene needs a lot of commitment and talent for event organisation. This begins with night-time ski tours and goes as far as snowboarding film premières, for which a club with a DJ was even hired out. Bruss hosts late night shopping and Baltic events in the store in cooperation with the Munich label Unitedskateboardartists to inspire the young clientèle. ''In the past, the boardsports scene

was a group that identified itself through its clothing, but the kids don't feel part of the scene any more,'' says Bruss. ''I'd like to change that.'' Tatjana Bruss also neither can nor wants to win the price war against cheaper online retailers. She prefers to donate ten per cent of her turnover to projects for her regular customers, which the customers themselves choose, perhaps a post exam trip or a local youth sports club. ''I do something for my customers, that's the message and it goes down really well,'' says Tatjana Bruss. ''It's important that I develop a relationship with them.'' Lösekann also finds it important to be close to customers. ''We also want to give something back,'' he says. ''However, we don't sponsor the good team drivers, but those who put their hearts and souls into it. And young musicians, whose samples we sell in the store.''

Order. ''It's important for everyone, not just parents,'' he says. As well as this, he has checklists for his stores that his staff must respect. It covers the volume of music to the state of the floors and trouble-free lighting and even vouchers, which must be left in the right place. ''If everything is presented well, you can increase your turnover by ten to twenty per cent,'' says André Lösekann. It still remains a little unpredictable, whether a store becomes an opinion leader and a place to be or not. Finally, there's also something intangible at play, atmosphere and chemistry. Before opening the second Ozone store, André Lösekann started a survey of what his customers would like the new store to be like. '' 'Everything's great, stay the way you are!','' was the answer from many'', he says. ''This didn't tell us anything concrete, but it was a great validation.“ x

Shop Furniture Is Not What's Important But what really makes a store the place to be? ''The least important thing is furniture,'' says André Lösekann. You need the right stock, that's where it starts. Here, it's not the trends that are important but that the articles appropriate to the trend are there in the right amounts. People who have nothing can't sell anything.'' However, for Lösekann this also means opening himself up. So, as well as Carhartt and Cleptomanicx, there's also Dr. Denim, Cheap Monday and fashion by Eleven Paris, Suit and Minimum. ''There is no real sub-culture any more, but I think that the diversity that has emerged from it is great, so is the tolerance,'' says Lösekann. ''We are definitely niche, yet open to everyone.'' That this hits home is made clear through our success, because Ozone is popular beyond the city borders of Bielefeld. Maybe it's also a a result of the fact that Lösekann gives internships to every pupil who can really feel like a member of the team at Ozone. That has gotten round the schools. ''If you also have good staff on top of that, who are determined and authentic, and who can convey the stock well, then you become even more successful,'' says Lösekann. ''Girls, like boys, know exactly what they want. The art is getting to talk to them, building a foundation so that you can recommend something. Then, they come and ask too. That's how it develops.'' However, for André Lösekann, there is another precondition for good sales figures:

01 ''16 year-olds need someone older, they wouldn't buy from someone their own age. The seller should be confident, then he can convey the stock in an authentic way.'' André Lösekann, manager of Ozone

02 Behind the counter, I am the one who can give the customer something. I don't want to sell any old rubbish, I want to do it right.'' Dennis Laaß, manager of High Five

03 ''We do everything ourselves, if we didn't,then it would seem strange. People love us because we're real.'' Peer Blomberg, Purchasing ZigZag

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01 Grand Studio offers a complete package from design and product development to strategic and trend consulting. 02-05 The team has become more grown-up and more professional. That is the reason why, in 2011, they changed their name from F.e.t.i.s.h. to Grand Studio.

52 â&#x20AC;&#x201C;â&#x20AC;&#x201C;

Grand Studio –– what's the story

The Third Eye From strategy and design to production - the Zürich-based design agency Grand Studio Ltd. guides brands towards success. Text Nicolette Scharpenberg Photos Grand Studio

atrick Peritz is not a designer but a business administrator. He studied economics in university in Zürich. His link to fashion came from his family. ''At the table at our place, we always spoke about textile concepts. At some stage, it just sticks,'' says the Zürich native. In cases like this, there are always two possibilities: Either you become a nurse or you completely go for it. That's what he did. Today, he is the proprietor of the Zürichbased concept store The Gloss, and founder of the design agency Grand Studio Ltd.

WWW –––––––––– was also time for a new name and we changed it from F.e.t.i.s.h. to Grand Studio Ltd.''

Trend Supervision, Concept, Implementation At the beginning of 2012, Grand Studio brought out a trend book for the autumn/ winter season 2013/14 in cooperation with the trend information agency mode... information. The Third Eye covers twelve

''We help brands to achieve goals and to be successful in doing so.'' Patrick Peritz, Grand Studio

Strategy, Innovation and Design They are the three basic pillars of Grand Studio Ltd. They grew up in the snowboard, skating and surf business. Soon, they also had fashion brands as customers, now sports brands also avail of the service. Today, brands like Quiksilver, Oakley, Kjus, Eastpak, Strellson and Nike are among the customers. ''We help brands to achieve their goals by advising them strategically and supporting them with design and production. Our approach comes from both the creative and the economic side,'' says Peritz. The service includes design, product development and production as well as strategic consulting and research into trends. Peritz made his contacts with producers through an internship in a production office in Hong Kong and through his previous job as a sports textiles buyer for a Swiss department store. One of their first and long-term clients was the Swiss boardsport and clothing brand Zimtstern. At the time, we started off with very small quantities, which we produced in Asia. Later, we developed a complete collection for them,'' he says. ''Zimtstern is one of the best examples of what is now our 15-year career.'' In 2011, it was time for a new name. ''For 14 years we were F.e.t.i.s.h. In the meantime, we had become more grown up and even more professional. Therefore, it

www.grand-studio.com, www.thegloss.ch, www.grandism.com

Grand Studio

In 1997, Patrick Peritz founded the design agency F.e.t.i.s.h. (For Esthetes There Is Still Hope). In November 1999, he opened The Gloss in Zürich's fashionable district 5, which is now among the top addresses in conceptual retail. Then followed the high-quality Grand Boutique and ''Glossy'' in Shanghai. In 2011, F.e.t.i.s.h was renamed Grand Studio Ltd. In the same year, The Third Eye, a streetwear trend book was released in cooperation with Mode Information. In 2012, Grand Studio Ltd. opened an additional office in Shanghai. Contact: Grand Studio Ltd., Hofackerstrasse 13, 8032 Zürich/Switzerland, T 0041.44.4407400

trends with the help of diagrams, illustrations and sketches, with 300 product and print designs on 163 pages. Brands like Adidas, Puma and Decathlon have already bought the trend book worth 1,300 euros. According to Peritz, strategy consulting is currently an area where there is pent up demand among many brands. ''The demand in this area is increasing steadily, therefore we offer a complete package: From research into trends and strategic advice to defining the target groups and even complete branding. It gets very positive reactions because, along with design talent, we also bring sound economic know how and a lot of experience to the table,'' says Peritz. Today, they advise distinguished brands and chains,

Grand Studio goes East At the beginning of 2012, we opened an additional design office in Shanghai. ''In China there is a lot of pent-up demand in this area. It is slowly dawning on Chinese brands that they can't simply copy and produce, that they need collection concepts and an independent brand statement.'' Here, Grand Studio advises for the European market as well as the Chinese market. The only question left is: What comes next? Peritz laughs: „Basically, the only thing that's missing is a collection of our own!“ x

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what's the story –– Garcia

price. As well as jeans, there is a complete collection that is focused on trousers. The label feels particularly comfortable in the company of classic jeans brands and vertical suppliers like EDC or the Bestseller Group. In the meantime, Garcia has conquered a market segment, in which it is valued as a solid partner.

International Customers

WWW –––––––––– www.garciajeans.com

Back to Blue Sometimes it needs more than a face lift: The Dutch jeans label, Garcia, wants to strengthen its profile as a brand, in order to make it more visible to retailers and consumers. Text Ina Köhler Photo Garcia

Fresh look, progressive image. Garcia wants to become more visible to retailers and the end customer.

54 ––

lot is very different this summer at Garcia: With a new look, new logo and a newly reworked retail plan, they are currently working intensively on brand profiling. ''We want to bring the brand and the product further into the limelight,'' says Robert Theijssen, managing director of the German Garcia GmbH. The showrooms and the headquarters, spanning 800 square metres, in Neuss have already been redesigned. ''The name is to become better known, we want to show what potential the brand has,'' says Theijssen. To date, Garcia has stood for value for money, a solid fashionable product, and sophisticated logistics, which a good deal of retailers valued. In Germany alone, they supply about 900 retail partners – from P&C to Wöhrl. What's popular is quality at a reasonable price. Garcia has established itself successfully in the mid-price segment. Denim costs between 69 and 89 euros, jackets between 79 and 149 euros, retail

Garcia also has an international presence. 25 mono-label stores and more than 60 shop in shops all over Europe show the brand's international potential. They want to bring their experience from their own retail into the sharper profiling of the brand. In April, a store was opened in Eindhoven, which shows the new brand concept: A moderate industry, vintage look with lots of wood, metal and rough dry-stone walls, which set the scene for the products. ''Products with character'' is the claim in the display window. The collection for adults and progressive kids will incorporate fewer styles, to better portray a 'blue' brand profile – no over-styled looks, and not too casual. The logo and the campaign were also reworked – the Swedish star photographer Björn Tagemose was responsible for the images. This is all backed up by a social media campaign. They want to use trade events to move closer to retail. They have set themselves ambitious goals for the future: Growth should come about through retail and partnerships, as well as through their own stores: The number of franchise partners is also expected to increase to 100 by 2016. There are already two of them in Germany and more are conceivable. ''We have wide appeal and offer our retail partners a predictable return,'' says Robert Theijssen. x

Garcia

Behind Garcia is the owner-run JOG Group with headquarters in Alblasserdam, The Netherlands. With a turnover of 120 million euros and 900 staff, it is not only responsible for Garcia, but also for its own retail stores. Garcia produces six collections per year, with twelve delivery deadlines and an NOS programme. In Germany, they supply about 900 customers, including Wöhrl, Breuninger, Dodenhof, Engelhorn and Peek & Cloppenburg. Garcia runs its own store in Neuss. It also has franchise partners in Dresden and Bautzen. The brand is present in 23 countries in Europe, Eastern Europe and Asia, they are also expecting to supply the Scandinavian market from 2013 onwards.

salsa –– what's the story

Salsa Pro. Customers can see the products in 360-degree view, buy them and have them in the store five days later. The first attempt at entering the German market took place in 2008. Where do you stand at the moment? We started collaborating with Otto a good two years ago. That went very successfully and showed us that our product is accepted by the market. At the moment we are building specific teams to acquire targeted customers from speciality stores. Then, the spring/summer collection 2013 will take off. Retail is our main priority because we want to get to know the market this way first and want to strengthen the visibility of the labels. The second step may well be our own stores.

The Portugese jeans specialist Salsa wants to boost its collection‘s position among specialist retailers.

Be There or Be Square? The Olympic Ideal - it‘s taking part that counts - doesn‘t do it for Joao Nuno Martins. As Global Sales Director of Salsa he has a clearly defined goal for the international expansion of the label and it is aimed right at the speciality store. Text Isabel Faiss

WWW –––––––––– www.salsa.pt

Photo Salsa

fter being part of the Bread & Butter Trade Fair for six years, Salsa won‘t be joining them this July. According to Joao Nuno Martins, the main reason for not going is down to the principles that Salsa have laid down for themselves: To be there just because others are there too, doesn‘t cut it any more. Measuring actual success in terms of appearances at the fairs, it was time for a break to think things over. It was time to gather the troops, to question established mechanisms, to find new answers and to push own goals forward in a focused manner. One of the most important ones is the expansion in the German market. Joao Nuno Martins: Our main goal is to build and expand Salsa in key European markets. Up to press, 75 per cent of our turnover has been made in Portugal and Spain. We still need to catch up with this in Europe and we can see lots of potential. Germany is an enormously important, but also very difficult, market for us.

What challenges await Salsa? Not only is Germany a huge market in terms of numbers, it is also one with the highest turnover. There is a lot of potential there. So far, our products have always been well accepted, but it doesn‘t do to underestimate the high standards that apply in this market. Our business model strongly focuses on our own stores and franchises where provide our customers with the added value of a growing jeansweard brand, while at the same time, allowing them to profit from our well-structured and experienced retail know-how. After all, we do 80 per cent with our own stores and franchises and 20 per cent of our business with speciality stores. We want to deliver solutions. Which is why, beside our main collection which has 800 pieces per season and five delivery dates, we provide a broad NoS programme which can be reordered any time online using our new B2B platform

We are talking about a rather crowded market, particularly in the jeans segment... Our collection displays many aspects that set us apart from our competitors. Most importantly, we‘ll relate to women more strongly than say Levi‘s, Replay, G-Star or Diesel, for example. Almost 80 per cent of those collections are designed for men, we are different. Salsa is recognized for its innovation drive and for the quality of its products, particularly the more technical and innovative jeans, such as Push-Up (highlights the buttocks), Push-In (jeans with a triple-effect jeans: tummy tuck, push-in, and light push-up effect), Sculpture (shapes the female silhouette), Hope – Maternity (“evolutionary” jeans that can be used before, during and post-pregnancy), Shape-Up (boosts the silhouette and naturally enhances the feminine curves), and recently, ER-GO the new model for men. Besides the innovation products, Salsa offers more than 20 different fits for men and women. Our best sales argument is the fit, where we have the perfect fit for every woman and man‘s body shape. That is the key to our success. And that our products are priced 20 per cent below those of other labels. In procurement, our jeans start at 30 euros. That is a really good argument, indeed. x

salsa

Salsa was established in Portugal in 1994. Owner and CEO is Filipe Vila Nova. Salsa‘s first exhibition was the Bread & Butter in Barcelona in 2006. Now the label is represented by 2,000 point of sales in more than 35 countries.

–– 55

t the last Bread & Butter tradeshow in Berlin, the Antony Morato team celebrated its first trade fair appearance. Located in the Denim Base, its booth received 4,700 exclusive visitors. At times, the booth was so full that the entrance had to be sealed off. A symbol of the development of the young brand from Naples, which attaches importance to a high level of fashion and has successfully positioned itself in the new menswear sector.

WWW –––––––––– www.morato.it

Italy's New Generation While the Italian fashion scene is flagging, there are success stories on the newcomers' front, of all places, like that of Antony Morato. Four million items sold in the past year, 80 million euros turnover, 23 brand stores across Europe - and this five years after setting up the company. These are all intriguing facts. Text Isabel Faiss Photos Antony Morato

56 ––

Raffaele, Giovanni and Tania Caldarelli, the three people behind Antony Morato, are young, Italian and siblings. To which of these three facts can the success of the collection be most notably attributed? Manilo Massa, Managing Director of Antony Morato laughs. He hadn't expected this question. He's the man who looks after business, the experienced professional in the team, not the marketing specialist who always has flowery descriptions at the tip of his tongue. And he is completely honest. 'It's hard to say. For me, it's the fact that the roles are clearly distributed. Giovanni doesn't get involved with the product or marketing, Lello is 100 per cent dedicated to the collection and the products and the image. The three swap around a lot and make big decisions together. However, when it comes to the management of the company, everyone is responsible for their clearly defined area. That is the characteristic of an Italian family business. Especially in Southern Italy, families stick together. They argue a lot but, in the end, blood is thicker than water. Work is of prime importance because it takes up twelve hours a day. Instead of buying a penthouse apartment, they invest in the company. For such young people, it is pretty unusual that they should remain so grounded despite their success. I am very proud to see that we still have young people with this ambition in Italy. ' If he were a person, what would Antony Morato be like? A young man, who likes to dress fashionably, without being a fashion victim, or a billboard for certain brands. He wants to make his own decisions, and is very price sensitive because he doesn't want to pay ridiculous amounts for clothes. Does the price count more than the brand? The right price makes the brand even more attractive. That is today's reality. Young people in Europe are no longer interested in showing off with expensive brands. The

Antony Morato –– the talk

01-02

Facts and Figures

The Italian menswear label was established by Raffaele, Giovanni and Tania Caldarelli in 2007. The collection appears four times a year and includes shoes and accessories as well as clothes. Antony Morato is represented in over 2,800 stores in 47 countries worldwide and runs 35 flagship stores itself. Antony Morato Deutschland GmbH has its headquarters in Munich.

question is no longer: Do you know how much this cost? It's: Guess how little I paid for this. How informed I am about fashion, and how intelligently I shop, determines the degree of quality and value, it determines value for money. Was it part of the plan to set prices in such a way that customers don't have to decide between individual pieces, but can buy a look? Yes. We enable customers with normal incomes to buy complete outfits. In doing so, we are communicating a coherent overall image at the same time. Zara and H&M work just like this too, except they, unlike us, target the mass market and the collections no longer have a profile. The most important characteristic of a brand is its recognition value. It doesn't matter whether you like the brand or not, you always recognise it as Antony Morato. We want to continue to push this even more in the future.

How did you come on board? Firstly, I have to tell you that I am 60, and so I'm the oldest person in the whole company. I got to know Lello more than a year ago. At the time, he was at a critical turning point and had to make important decisions about his young company. I was still with the Moncler Group at the time. Lello came over to me and told me that Antony Morato was on the verge of a critical step forward, and that they needed help with the further development of their brand. He was only 30 years old, that simply bowled me over. His brother looks after all the administration and the key accounts and his sister is responsible for marketing and sales and the children's collection.

Antony Morato is the fastest growing menswear brand in Italy for over 20 years and in 2010 alone, it sold four million pieces worldwide. In Germany, Antony Morato supplies over 80 customers.

with individual items in the D&G collection but can cost only a quarter of the price. Is Antony Morato not intended for the young fashion sector? No, it is. We just had a market research study done in Spain and Italy, which showed that the biggest share of those who buy our products are between 16 and 24 years old. The next biggest block are the 24-35 yearolds, from there the percentages fall in line with rising age. But 33 percent of our customers are between 16 and 24. What continues to baffle us is the high percentage of women, 21 percent, who buy the brand.

What lies ahead in the near future? We want to develop up to 280 new points of sale in the next five years, which include shopin-shop concepts and our own brand stores too.

Are you planning a women's line? The target group may be there. We have found our niche in new menswear. We have only just introduced a boys' collection and a children's line, which have started off well. That is our next challenge. x

In which markets do you see the most potential? China and Korea are well on their way but, in the near future, the German market. Germany is the only country in the world, where we have set up our own subsidiary, in Munich, in order to be able to work more directly on the market. Naturally, our goal is to develop partnerships with department stores like Peek & Cloppenburg. But first we have to show everyone that we are not classic newcomers, not simply a flash in the pan. Our greatest strength is value for money. We have a fashionable product that can keep pace

''Aged 60, I am the oldest in this company.'' Manlio Massa –– 57

The devil is often in the detail: The weather is no excuse for haphazard orders.

Do You Have a Plan? Last autumn was too warm, all jackets went unworn. Spring came far too soon, the stock wasn't in yet. Just like the random weather, the division of fashion into two seasons is also no longer reliable. St. Peter isn't the only one providing uncertain planning factors, smaller hysterics on the stock markets, silly season statements on pension cuts by image-obsessed politicians and the eternal shadow of the euro crisis are also effecting business. For us, this poses, once again, the question of how predictable fashion actually is and what simply can no longer fit in with our whole fashion cycle and its early supply deadlines? Text Isabel Faiss Photos Dialogue partner, Gerrit Sievert

58 ––

Oliver Feske, P4 Marketing What time period are we speaking about? The weather was never predictable. Here, buyers are in demand. Just because there was a great winter for jackets, doesn't mean that I immediately double my jackets order. I believe fashion lives on trends. It's difficult to predict and plan this, but it's definitely not impossible and it actually always depends on the planning period. Approximately how long did the chino need to really become marketable? An eternity. Can you plan that Madonna and Timberlake will go around with Ed Hardy caps on and that there will be hype about it? Of course not. But you can definitely arrange your product ranges so that they're flexible. And that's what we do that brought about success for verticals.

That is, rapidly producing and turning over new stock, virtually on a monthly basis. We consciously work together with companies who have top stock availability and work with four to eight collections per year. That's how we are flexible. We are constantly working on the right planning, we are planning the brand portfolio. Always with the precondition that you have good stock and the most punctual collections possible. We were right at least when it came to RVLT and Eleven Paris. However, that is work that will be done over several seasons and so it's not possible to plan it in the short-term.

Rike Döpp, Agentur V The internet created the illusion of constant availability for consumers, which the industry

fashion discourse –– the talk

now has to tackle. Now, the consumer expects the collections almost directly from the catwalk. Here in New York, Moda Operandi is en vogue, an online trunk show, straight after which you can order collection pieces and then receive them long before the delivery date. In Germany, couture society is going in the same direction. Smaller labels are reacting with capsule collections, high-street retailers are newly decorating their shops on a weekly basis, brands such as Diane van Fürstenberg are showing current collections at the New York Fashion Week, which is available in the store and can be bought immediately. We have to deal with the consumers' expectations that retailers should have everything within days – always adapt to the newest trend, weather variability or the newly hip price class. For this, there are basically two options: Either find short-term delivery routes and work with warehouses. Or give the consumer an alternative to twirling trend spirals and the assurance that good style doesn't require a new wardrobe within a few weeks. As a retailer, I would abandon the trends of high street retailers, who can throw trend products onto the market within two weeks, and concentrate on a balanced, reasonable wardrobe for clientèle that remains loyal to my concept.

Robert Dostert, Country Sales Manager GAPS for Keds, PRO-Keds and Sperry Top Spider. It actually can't be predicted because, in contrast to ten years ago, we have a lot more offers on the market and we always want to deliver earlier. The weather has not changed extremely, rather consumer behaviour. We are used to getting everything at any time. Thanks to the verticals, there is a new trend in the store every month. In the past, a trend lasted longer. However, in the case of shoes, for example, there are no proper trends. At the moment, you get every type of every brand for every age group. Then, there is also the fact that everyone wants to already have stock in January, February, and then they whinge that it only gets warm in April. We have to become more flexible, more NOS, more risk in the industry. We simply have to have a rethink. Maybe the industry has to take on more risk and promote NOS articles, in order to react flexibly to demand. Admittedly, we must also get rid of surpluses by means of other channels.

Markus Cadruvi, DeeCee Style in Zürich Fashion is only predictable, when a store has an appropriate profile. Only with this do you have the opportunity to react to the economic situation etc., regardless of the current changes in the weather. Have a little more patience! Our experience has shown us that down jackets can also be sold at regular prices in January, if the warehouse chains have sold off their stock at rock bottom prices two months too soon, during much too warm weather, thus destroying the market themselves. Wholesalers should better support specialist retailers and prevent their products from losing their speciality. The weather is how it is and we can't change anything. Early deliveries from collections show time and again that stock also flows in inappropriate weather, when it is special. It helps specialist retailers when healthy distribution is carried out. Professional buying determined by articles is becoming ever more important. Product ranges should be coordinated exactly so that overlays can be avoided and still remain special. Therefore, it would also be reasonable to give warehouses a little more responsibility and risk, so that they can make basic stock available at the desired time.

for the coming season. The success of the last sales campaign for the autumn/winter collection 2012/13 confirms our intuitions of June 2011 — I would say that we were spot on with our strategy for the last campaign. x

Nicola Cinelli, CRUST and [C]STUDIO The problem actually begins with purchasing. In buying, customers, of course, take their cue from pre-sale sales figures. If they have sold well regularly, they will almost definitely buy the product again. Here, profit margin plays a big role: The higher the profit margin, the lower the loss in a sale. Therefore, we always try to fulfil the price wishes of retailers without forgetting quality expectations. In the current market situation, it's very difficult to plan collections in detail. Most retailers do not only pay a lot of attention to price, but also quality. The quality requirements and the proposed prices of retailers are important to us and so we must start production earlier and earlier. In contrast, retailers push buying further and further. This is where the planning problem begins. For us, it means the early manufacture of products, which have still not been ordered once. At the end of every season, we analyse sell-out output figures and hold several feedback discussions with retailers. This is what we use as the basis for our strategy

01 ''Economic crises are mostly predictable and you can react a little with buying.'' Markus Cadruvi, Deecee Style Zürich

02 ''In the current market situation it is very difficult to plan collections in detail.'' Nicola Cinelli, Crust and (C)Studio

03 ''It's impossible to predict crises. Nobody can predict if towers will fall somewhere, or if India and Pakistan will keep their cool.'' Oliver Feske, P4 Marketing

04 ''As a retailer, I would offer my customers a product range for a wardrobe that is able to keep up with our changeable European weather.'' Rike Döpp, Agentur V 05 ''Every time you think, now you've done everything right, and it still turns out differently.'' Robert Dostert, Keds

–– 59

60 ––

Sandrine Pagnoux –– the talk

Eyes Don't Lie In her pictures, the Parisian photographer and illustrator Sandrine Pagnoux mostly illustrates people who live in an intermediate world of sorts, torn between strong emotions and contrasts. She designed the current cover of x-ray. Text Isabel Faiss Illustrations Sandrine Pagnoux

''Your eyes where nothing is revealed, of bitter or sweet, are two cold jewels where are mingled iron and gold.'' Charles Baudelaire

our pictures are very emotional. If the faces in your pictures could speak, what would they say? Sandrine Pagnoux: They are always very wild people, but not particularly communicative. They have no meaningful, intellectual message for the viewer, they are simply full of emotion. They are both strong and vulnerable, torn between hope and desperation. Sometimes they are also in love. Like all lovers, they are so inspired by happiness that they think anything is possible. So, if they could speak, they might say something stupid like: ''I am king of the world!'' But mostly I illustrate lost souls, people, who are torn between strong poles like beauty and tragedy and buzz in the complete chaos of this crazy world. They live in a world full of magic and love, but also full of sadness and vulnerability. Perhaps they would address brief prayers to us, as if we were their guardian angels, like ''I'm scared,'' ''Protect me,'' or ''Love me,'' ''Rescue me.'' That sounds quite sad. Which facial expression fascinates you the most? Deep eyes. For me, they are the window to the soul. Eyes don't lie. You can see the character of a person in their eyes, whether it is real or not, it fascinates me. At the same

time, it scares me sometimes too. Everything happens in the eyes, emotions and feelings. When did you begin painting? I actually draw more. I would like to paint more at some stage, but, at the moment, paintings are more of a raw material for me, which I combine with photographs, hand drawings, typography and some other materials. I often use painted canvases as a background, or for special details. In the beginning, I concentrated completely on the alienation of photographs, but since then I have settled on pure drawing. You were originally a fashion photographer. What made you decide to swap your camera for a pencil? I have been always interested in photographing people, ever since I was a child. When I moved to Paris, I met a fashion photographer. When she saw my pictures, she asked me if I would like to work for her. We did this for two years, an exciting time, but I wasn't really happy with it. I am impatient in my work and so I prefer to work alone. As a photographer, you have to manage a whole team. It's a very stressful job. I don't like it. You have to do everything immediately. At the same time, you have a customer, for whom you must

WWW –––––––––– www.sandrinepagnoux.com

01 In this illustration, Sandrine Pagnoux edited her own photo. 02 The illustrator likes working on photographs by the Parisian photographer Sophie Etchart best, like this expressive portrait. 03 The artist's newest style is drawings inspired by fashion.

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the talk –– Sandrine Pagnoux

''My career allows me to live in my own little bubble.“ Sandrine Pagnoux

service. I prefer to live and work in my own bubble. Furthermore, I quickly noticed that I expected poses from the models that were impossible to do. It didn't work. It bored me that their expression in my pictures was always the same. Maybe I just wasn't talented. My head is full of ideas, I can't convey them with photography alone. That frustrated me a lot. So, I decided at the time, to hang up my camera and to go to a Photoshop course to teach myself illustration and painting. Now I can do what I like. Your illustrations often fall back on photographs by Sophie Etchart. What is this cooperation about? I love to illustrate her photographs, because it's unbelievably exciting to work with real people in a picture, with real eyes. Combining the fake and the real provides the thrill. So, I have mostly worked with Sophie Etchart (www.sophieetchart.com) because I am a big fan of her work and she has also found real pleasure in what my illustrations do with her photos. Here, I use a mix of hand drawings, hand written letters, cut-outs and photos. I combine and manipulate these elements in my own way with the help of Photoshop. Which era inspires you the most? More than anything else, the early expressionists from about 1900 inspire me,

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especially the works of Schiele, Munch, Soutine and Kokoschka. And the die Brücke movement. Art Nouveau Posters and typography from the late 19th and early 20th centuries by artists like Toulouse Lautrec, Alfons Mucha or Koloman Moser also greatly influence my work. I would have loved to live in that era. At the same time, movements like the punk movement in the '70s and the whole rock 'n roll atmosphere around David Bowie, Iggy Pop, Joy Division, The Doors, Marianne Faithfull and Patti Smith fascinate me. My childhood and youth were highly influenced by the images and video clips of the late '80s and early '90s, with productions by Herb Ritts or Jean Baptiste Mondino. You live in the fashion metropolis Paris. What significance does fashion have in your life? A very high one. I live in an area with innumerable designer boutiques and spend a lot of time reading fashion magazines. Documentation about different designers interests me a lot, how they prepare for their shows and collections, how they work with the models. It is such an unbelievable amount of work, I am overwhelmed every time. Fashion surrounds me everywhere. It influences me a lot in my work, because it is a reflection of our society. It even speaks to our subconscious. What effects these

influences actually have on my pictures, I can't say. I only know that fashion definitely influences me. You have already had a few commissions from fashion companies? My contact with the industry is usually in relation to photo productions. For example, I recently illustrated a comprehensive production by Sophie Etchart for the Italian Max. I was involved in the production for two weeks and also met the stylists on the set and assisted with the shoot. It was great to simply observe it and to work on the images afterwards. I was fascinated by how the whole system works, how stylists, make-up artists, hairstylists, photographer and models all work together. It is all very intense. I illustrated the background of the Diesel perfume website. As well as this, I am always in contact with companies like Nikita or Undiz, who use my illustrations in their collections. My goal is to continue to work with new brands who use my visuals for their clothing or for their campaigns. That would be great! x

04 Sandrine Pagnoux's illustrations decorated the Diesel Fragrance Factory 2011. 05 This work from 2008 adorned the cover of the exclusive magazine.

out now! www.ucm-verlag.at/app

Want it! Text Isabel Faiss, Nicolette Scharpenberg, Petrina Engelke Photos Labels

Ativ by Vita Hecho a Mano

Tania Muñoz Garcia and Mirko Gardella got to know each other while studying fashion in New York. Their passion for naturally beautiful things not only made them a team in their private lives. In 2009, they decided to set up their own accessories and bag brand, Ativ by Vita, with a tree as its logo, claims to make high-quality products from natural materials without chemical dyes. All handmade in Spain. The collection contains bags for men and women, scarves, purses and ties. The bags are all made from 100 per cent organic cotton, some of the materials are one of a kind. Fasteners, laces and handles are made from high-quality leather and are individually adjustable. At the moment, the collection contains eight different models in four different colours and materials. The bags cost between 80 and 150, purchase price, and are already available at 150 retailers in Europe. Contact: Gardella & Garcia S.L. (Ativ by Vita), 08033 Barcelona/Spain, T 0034.93.1881875, www.ativbyvita.com

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A Question Of Wear something good

In 2007, the Copenhagen trio Thomas Dam, Kasper Andersen and Mads Ulrik Greenfort launched the label A Question Of . The aim of the creative collective is to offer organic and fairly-produced fashion. It all began with printed T-shirts for NGOs, until in 2010 a collection in itself, with attractive graphics on T-shirts and sweatshirts, had developed. Since then, A Question of has come to be represented in image stores like Harvey Nichols, Bloomingdales and Asos.com. Clients such as Wood Wood, Colette or Soto are still on the wish list. There are four collections per year, each of which has 50 pieces. The collection's retail prices range from 40 to 80 euros. A Question Of works with sales partners in England, Italy, Japan and Singapore and is currently seeking partners in Germany and the Netherlands. Contact: A Question Of, Mads Ulrik Greenfort, 2100 Copenhagen/Denmark, T 0045.31322322, www.aquestionof.net

Native Union Talk on the Phone Like You Used To

Do you miss the good old ''holding the phone under your chin manoeuvre''? Pop Phones by the US label Native Union owned by David Turpin, Michael Young and Fabien Nauroy brings you the ''Back in the days'' feeling. The bright plastic earpiece can simply be stuck onto an iPhone and calls can be answered with the click of a button, or not. The first series consisted exclusively of bright phones in candy colours. New versions include camouflage and the golden plastic version, which also conjures up a little James Bond style at your ear. Maximum attention guarantee. The Pop Phones cost between eight and 18 euros, purchase price. The utility brand is already represented at Urban Outfitters, Amazon and Snipes. Contact: Supreme Agency, Bardia Beigui, 50858 Cologne/Germany, T 0049.2234.2779501, www.supremeagency.de, www.nativeunion.com

Want it! –– Fashion

Triwa Just Provoke!

The four people behind the Swedish accessories label set up in 2007 seem to have taken up the cause of provocation as a major goal. The young brand's watches and sunglasses are completely unpretentious and bring a certain kick-ass attitude to the table. Here, colour is always a top priority Cool earthy tones can sometimes even clash with a loud pink. The completely attractive, radical attitude continues on a material level: Steel watch casings meet straps made from acetate, soft leather or NATO nylon straps. For the cream of the crop, they have special editions by street artists like SupaKitch or Koralie. The watches and glasses cost between 40 and 86 euros, purchasing price, with a margin of 2.5. The brand is represented in over 25 countries, including in stores such as Selfridges London, Sten och Ströms in Oslo or Illum in Copenhagen. Contact: Looft Modevertrieb GmbH, 20457 Hamburg/Germany, T 0049.40.481020, www.triwa.com

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Bag ’n’ Noun Japan Superlative

The Japanese bag label Bag ’n’ Noun was founded by Takeshi Ozawa in 2009. All bags are produced with care in a small tailor shop in Osaka. Only smooth and robust Japanese canvas is used. To ensure the quality of the material, the weavers produce a maximum of about 50 metres per day. The collection includes shopping bags, rucksacks, canvas bags, toilet bags and spindle bags. The rucksacks cost between 46 and 100 euros, purchase price, the bags between 52 and 75 euros. The items are already available at The Gloss in Zürich, Wunderschön in Lausanne und Purple Pink in Hamburg. Contact: Japan Proxy, 8004 Zürich/Switzerland, T 0041.432.433363, www.japanproxy.ch, www.bagnnoun.com

HEX Nerdy Business

Technological apparel and merchandising products are the ultimate nerdy business. Despite this, the Californian brand HEX has set itself the goal of adding in style confidence. HEX is a private label from August Accessories that produces accessories for skate brands like KR3W, Spitfire, Antihero or Real among others. The founder of the brand, Carl Steindler, who already has 20 years experience in the fashion industry, set up HEX in 2010. “HEX represents high-quality transport of technological devices of all types with street credibility,“ says Steinler. The collection contains backpacks, messenger bags, iPhone and iPad sleeves and watches for iPod nanos. Bags cost 24 euros, purchase price, iPod sleeves are nine euros and the iPod nano watchbands cost 7.60 euros, purchase price. HEX is available at Zebraclub in Berlin, Oneoff in Stockholm and online at Karmaloop. Contact: HEX, 92672 San Clemente/USA, T 001.949.3061626, www.shophex.com

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Tantum Los Angeles Guerila Streetwear

In the case of the US brand Tantum Los Angeles, business is systematically operated through others. If you click on their website's logo, which was still ''under construction'' up until now, you will be redirected immediately to the Union Store in Los Angeles. When it comes to describing brands, a very popular subject is one of their favourite customers by the name of T_Z. He is the person behind the brand TantumLos Angeles whose pocket T-shirts and hats have been spread around using the street wide web since April 2011 and has, in many cases, been used as a template for other brands. The corporate identity of the brand is the colour-contrast breast pockets with camouflage, Navajo, tiger, leopard, Hawaiian flowers, paisley, chambray or stars. T-shirts are between 15 and 19 euros, hats for 30 euros and sweatshirts for 35 euros, purchase price. As well as Union L.A., the brand is also available, among others, at Graduate in Bordeaux, Hanon from Aberdeen and online at Open Lifestyle To date, it's only possible to make direct contact over their Tumblr blog. Try it!

Drink Beer Save Water Drinks on us

The name Drink Beer Save Water sounds like the name of a silly or funny DIY brand, whose purveyors you would expect to drunkenly come across at underground fairs. The brand from Seoul's story does actually begin with beer drinking, but then it gets better: The launch took place with the 2011 summer collection, last January the men's T-shirt collection was displayed for the first time at Bread & Butter. The graphic tees that are purely in black and white are characterised by original prints. The shirts cost between 55 and 150 euros, with a markup of 2.5. Drink Beer Save Water is already on the market in Europe, the US and Japan and in Germany, it's represented in Kult in Düsseldorf as well as other stores. Contact: Drink Beer Save Water, 299-38 Seoul/Korea, T 0082.2.5150614, www.drinkbeersavewater.com, www.youneedbeer.com

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Contact: Tantum L.A., 90036 Los Angeles/USA, www.tantumla.com, www.tantumla.tumblr.com, www.tantumlosangeles.blogspot.com 08

Reason Clothing For Collectors' Hearts

Phil Bassis and Jonathan Totaro collect hundreds of reference pieces before they start a new collection. When designing pieces for their men's fashion line Reason, they let themselves be inspired by a seam here, a collar there – and make the best possible thing from them. The label was founded in New York in 2004 and its products are real collector's items: From hoodies to premium denim, from caps to hip flasks, everything appears in limited editions, some are limited to 50 pieces, each numbered by hand and with a handpainted label. Reissues? Wrong. Because Reason is always back searching for the next perfect piece. Contact: Reason, 10023 New York/USA, www.reasonclothing.com

R.T.CO Quality’s Next

Tobias Bergmann began skateboarding in the '80s, launched his own brand of T-shirts in 2006, and has been producing his own premium sunglasses since 2010. Under the name R.T.C.O., he produces high-quality frames made from cellulose acetate. The frames are made by small manufacturers in Austria and Italy, the lenses are quality lenses by Essilor from France. ''Supreme quality & design,'' is the self-declared maxim of the skateboarder and graphic designer from Berlin'. Glasses cost about 60 euros, purchase price. The brand is already available at Voo in Berlin, in Yeahboy Department in Hamburg and Pop Cph in Copenhagen. Contact: R.T.CO, 12047 Berlin/Germany, www.r-t-co.com

Want it! –– Fashion

Manastash Earth, Fire, Water, Air

Manatash, the brand from Seattle founded in 1994, is an absolute pioneer in the specialist area of ''looking good in eco-friendly products'' and is currently being raved about by all hype blogs. The US brand's main products are jackets, vests, T-Shirts and accessories for skiing, trekking, mountain biking, rafting or kayaking. Also, when it comes to production, nature serves as a guide for colours and materials. The outer shell of the jackets is made of breathable Pertex and hemp, the lining of PrimaLoft, with breathable insulation for higher performance and comfort. A highlight is the Manatash Mammoth jacket, developed in 2010. The outdoor styles cost between 84 euros for vests and 107 euros for jackets, purchase price. The brand is already available at Hickoree’s in New York.

Manastash Earth, Fire, Water, Air

Contact: Blender Agency, 0273 Oslo/Norway, T 0047.22.606950, www.blendeagency.com, www.manastash.com

Vanishing Elephant Stylish Clashes of Style

In 2008, Felix Chan, Huw Bennett and Arran Russell emerged into the market with their menswear label Vanishing Elephant. Their performance curve has grown steeply since then. Now the brand is already sold in the US, New Zealand, Australia, Asia, Canada and the UK and in 2010, it was selected as the menswear brand of the year by the Australian GQ. The Australian brand's aspiration is the combination of quality, originality and expedience and a new interpretation of the classic aesthetic of men's and boy's outerwear. The first collection was created in 2009, a small collection of jackets, shirts, T-shirts, jeans, Bermudas, knitted jumpers and classic men's shoes. The hallmark of their look is clashing styles. So, you'll find small pieces of embroidery like roses on classic chinos or jackets, Navajo patterns on linen shirts or paisley patterns on Bermuda shorts. The styles cost between 30 euros for shirts, 39 euros for chinos, 84 euros for jackets and 66 euros for shoes, purchase price. In Germany, the brand is already represented in Yeahboy Department in Hamburg.

Contact: Vanishing Elephant, Huw Bennett, 2010 Sydney NZ/Australia, T 00612.9698.1688, www.vanishingelephant.com

Contact: Hoopla PR-London, Jamie Hutchinson, W1D 7AZ London/UK, T 0044.207.2877066, www.luvaj.com

Luv Aj Bad Ass Bling

To pimp the whole world with her jewellery – that's Amanda Thomas' goal. The 23 year old designer from Los Angeles set up her own jewellery and accessory label Luv Aj in 2005. She learned from the greats like Corey Madley of Madley Knitwear and Jewellery, designer Rachel Pally, or celebrity-stylist Cristina Ehrlich, or the ladies from the online magazine Who What Wear. Her fans today already include such celebrities as Kim Kardashian, Vanessa Hudgens, Whitney Port and Nicole Richie. Her collection contains headbands with spikes, chunky necklaces, knuckledusters, bracelets and earrings. Necklaces cost between 50 and 60 euros, purchase price, rings between 20 and 34 euros, bracelets between 50 and 116 euros. The brand is, to date, only available in the US, or online at Karmaloop, Asos, Urban Outfitters or Revolve Clothing.

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To the black Where Light Is...

...there's also shadow. This is more or less the motto of the brand To The Black from Cardiff, Wales, which was founded in 2009. Behind the brand, is a duo of graphic designers, who, as service providers for graphics, decided at some stage to enter the business themselves and to bring a collection onto the market that consisted of T-shirts, sweatshirts, leather jackets and accessories for women and men. Successfully, because only three years later the collection, which is limited to the basic colours black, white and grey, and only provides colour through prints, is being sold in smaller boutiques all over Europe. As well as this, talks are on-going with a big chain in England. Retail prices are between 20 and 50 euros, where there are also individual pieces that cost more. At the moment the US, Canadian, Australian and Japanese markets are on their to-do list. Contact: To The Black, Naeem Khan, Amjad Iqbal, CF23 OGG Cardiff/UK, T 0044.29.20195013, www.totheblack.co.uk

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Bleu de Paname Sailor Romance

The French streetwear and menswear label Bleu de Paname, founded by Thomas Giorgetti and Christophe Lepine in 2008, already has a considerable client list to show for itself. The menswear label has already cast a spell over retailers like Colette in Paris, Hunting & Collecting in Brussels, Dover Street Market in London or the Civilist store in Berlin. Sailor romance is communicated through a mix of dark denim, big pockets, exterior stitching and vintage buttons. The look: Work and uniform with a street-twist. The collection contains jackets, chinos, shirts and jeans. They have already cooperated with the shoe brands PF Flyers and Pointer and with the high-fashion Japanese brand Comme des Garçons. The jackets cost 60 to 117 euros, shirts between 37 and 45 euros, chinos 45 euros and denims 52 euros, purchase price. Enter Arrived!

Founded on a love for vintage clothing, the Swedish bag and accessories label Enter was set up in 2011. The Swedes get their inspiration from music of the golden ages, from fashion and sport. Divided into three collections: Lifestyle, heritage and staples including iPhone and iPad cases, laptop and travel bags, rucksacks, duffle bags, briefcases and purses made of fine leather or high-quality wool with herringbone pattern, check or leopard print. All parts are manufactured in an old factory in Sweden. The accessories cost between 13 and 117 euros purchase price, with a margin of 2.3. In August 2001, the brand was displayed for the first time at the Boutique Fräsh in Stockholm and is already represented at Sivletto, Skank and Sportamore in Stockholm and at Supermarket Sarah in London. Contact: Supreme Agency, Bardia Beigui, 50858 Cologne/Germany, T 0049.2234.2779501, www.supremeagency.de, www.enteraccessories.com

Contact: Bleu de Paname, Christophe Lepine, 75011 Paris/France, T 0033.175513392, www.bleudepaname.com

Unit Portables Wear Something Nice

People without a laptop, iPhone, Mp3 player and Co.? A rare species. Thanks to the multitude of different gadgets, the possibilities for protecting them have also grown. Sometimes they are elegant, but sometimes they're not. And this is exactly where the Swedish label Unit Portables, founded in 2011, comes in. Their bags, cases and covers not only safely transport the gadgets from A to B, they also provide style with their minimalist design. The collection contains computer bags, iPhone and iPad cases, shoulder bags and messenger bags made of polyester. The bags cost between twelve and 32 euros, purchase price. The brand is already available at Human Empire in Hamburg, theflashgib in Stuttgart and STAB in Berlin. Contact: Haptiques trading co., Felix Engelmann, T 0049.171.5656559, www.haptiques.com, en.unitportables.com

Want it! –– Fashion

Phonz says Black Italian Blazer Mafia

Their passion is vintage motorbikes and rock 'n roll music. Their logo is a black panther in a triangle. The aggressive elegance of this noble predator is utilised by Daniele Bianucci and Fontani Alessandro, founders of the Italian label Phonz says Black. Their aim: Style dominance by means of outrageous jackets. Since 2010, their focus has been on blazers with sharp cuts for men and women. These are revolutionised by prints all over or on the back: Motifs such as mountainous landscapes, desert or steppes like in Marlboro country, guitars, ivory tusks and nails as accessories, comics, snakes or leopard prints. The blazers cost between 100 and 110 euros, purchase price. The brand is already represented by Peek & Cloppenburg Fashionation in Berlin, Stuttgart and Vienna. 18

Osloh Bicycle Jeans Uncomprimising – Stop

What makes a pair of trousers both suitable for use in the office and for cycling? 1. Five pocket cut. 2. Unwashed indigo denim with two per cent stretch. 3. Antibacterial and odour-resistant layer. 4. Three layers at the crotch. 5. A low-cut at the front of the waistband, high at the back. 6. Quick snap adjustable waistband at the back. 7. Double button fastener with extended straps on the front waistband. 8. Slanted belt loops at the front. 9. U lock bike-lock holder above the back left pocket and a tapered pocket on the top right for a mobile phone or Mp3 player. 10. Reinforcement/stitching on the inner-right bottom of the trouser leg and the right trouser leg can also be narrowed using straps with buttons. Osloh Bicycle Jeans was set up by Shawn Drayton from New York in 2008. Prices: 40 to 64 euros, purchase price. From 2013, also available for women and children. Stop. Contact: Trendwizzard, 81827 Munich/Germany, T 0049.89.43707300, www.trendwizzard.de, www.osloh.com

Stance Ankle Artistry

The Californian sock brand, set up in 2010, has its roots in boardsport. Those of you who are thinking of the standard black and white, stripy socks are very far off the mark. Stance uses the sock as a canvas and works regularly with skateboarders and artists like e.g. Kid Creature, Don Pendelton, Jason Jesse or Chris Cole for limited editions. A highlight for the skateboard gang was the screaming hand design by Santa Cruz or the Lakai Manchester shoe design. There are now over 140 models and six collections. Casual for every day use, performance for more durability, reserve, elegant above – functional underneath, the artistic art series, a children's collection and recently a snowboard collection too. Most models are available in three different lengths, they cost between three and four euros, purchase price. Stance is already represented in Germany at Mantis in Hamburg, Planet Sports and Snipes. Contact: Trade.Art Distribution, 70199 Stuttgart/Germany, T 0049.711.51872888, www.stance.com

Contact: JAT, 20142 Milan/Italy, T 0039.02.89124020, www.phonzsaysblack.com

Roberu Unique Cowhide

The Japanese leather brand Roberu was set up in 2008. Its boots and iPhone cases are manufactured in a small factory in Yokohama and they are exclusively made of high-quality cowhide. The items, which can have scratches or bumps, get their unique structure, from a special tanning process using natural dyes that stick irregularly to the coarse leather. However, this is exactly what makes the accessories, boots and camera holders so desirable for stores like Colette in Paris, Union in Los Angeles or Graduate in Bordeaux. The iPhone cases cost 22 euros, purchase price, the boots 145 euros, and the camera bags 49 euros. Contact: Japan Proxy, 8004 Zürich/Switzerland, T 020.1.059.1134, www.japanproxy.ch, www.roberu.com

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Boys are Back in Town The city, the summer, a long balmy evening. Two boys and their motorbike. What's going on? Photos Julian Robinet Assistance Markus Sende Postproduction/picture editing Martin Wickenhäuser Hair & Make-up Tina Schmoll, www.ninaklein.com Models Sebastian and Carlo, www.sowow.de Production Agi Habryka, Friederike von Bock, www.sowow.de Special Thanks: Carlotta von Bock and Martin Uecker

Shirt –– Salsa Bow-tie –– American Apparel Denim jacket –– Levi's Denim shorts –– Adidas via Frontlineshop Socks –– Happy Socks via Frontlineshop Shoes –– Lacoste via Frontlineshop

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