Ultimate Africa November 2012

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Shumbalala Where the Lion Sleeps

B a r t h o l o m e u s K l i p • 1 2 A p o s t l e s S p a • W i n e l a n d s P h o t o g r a p hy


SUNSET CRUISES

VILLAGE WALKS

SPA TREATEMENTS

ISLAND PICNICS

BOMA EVENINGS

CHUNDU CHILDREN’S CLUB

WINE CELLAR

VICTORIA FALLS TOUR

CANOEING

CHOBE NATIONAL PARK DAY TRIP

BIRDING SAFARIS

This festive season,

enjoy a Zambezi River adventure for the whole family!

Pack up the kids and embark on an African river adventure to the child friendly Royal Chundu Luxury Zambezi Lodges, perched on the banks of the mighty Zambezi River, 30km upstream from the Victoria Falls. This memorable family holiday will afford you time to relax while your kids enjoy the activities offered by the Chundu Children’s Club, a bespoke kids on safari programme aimed to entertain and accommodate you.

CHILDREN RECEIVE A SPECIAL RATE AND A FREE RIVER SAFARI ACTIVITIES PACK. OFFER VALID UNTIL THE END OF DECEMBER 2012 | TERMS & CONDITIONS APPLY

Tel: +27 (0) 13 751 1038 reservations@royalchundu.com | www.royalchundu.com

Direct flights from Nelspruit to Livingstone on Airlink. Daily flights out of Johannesburg OR Tambo to Livingstone on SAA, Kulula and BA.


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Editor’s Letter - Welcome to Ultimate Africa

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The Spa At The 12 Apostles - Heaven’s Missing Chamber

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AllÉe Bleue - Wine Estate Goes Platinum

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Photographing The Winelands - with Cape Photo Co

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Bartholomeus Klip - Fine Country Living

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Pure Restaurant - The Culinary Pearl of Hout Bay

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Read - Survival Training

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Guide- South Africa’s Top Properties

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Guide- Zanzibar’s Top Properties

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Guide- South Africa’s Services

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Directory- Grouped Luxury Property Listing

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In The Know- Important Travel Info

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Shumbalala - Bushveld Bliss

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E ditor ’ s L etter Ultimate guide to Africa Publisher TCB Publishing PO Box 11273, Hatfield, 0028 Tel: +27 861 THE MAG Fax: +27 88 012 346 2367 mail@tcbpublishing.co.za Produced for Under African Skies 7635 E Krall Street Scottsdale AZ, 85250 USA +1 414-306-2539

where Credit is Due Managing director Bernard Hellberg | bernard@ultimate-africa.com Publisher Wilhelm Loots | wilhelm@ultimate-africa.com

The journey starts here

Editor-in-Chief Rodger Whittle | rodger@ultimate-africa.com

Between good sense and good taste there lies the difference be-

Editor Lara Potgieter lara@ultimate-africa.com | +27 82 979 2395 +27 21 552 2829

tween a cause and its effect. – Jean de la Bruyere

his month we plunge into the assured in the knowledge that we have E A Creative Director bubbles of azure pools and enjoyed and shared the best of the hearty Henco Meintjes Luxurious suites, elegant tented camps and an oppulent presidential suite await you. sparkling bottles. We take a culinary creations that will be on offer at henco@ultimate-africa.com | +27 82 957 9495 Game viewing & guided walking safaris conducted by an experienced ranger. Masterful cuisine, +27 12 425 5800 personal exclusive experience & superb attention to detail. Exquisite synthesis of nature’s wild helicopter to the sky, dine with the festival. pulse with the sophisticated sublimity of comfort, elegance & style. discerning ghosts and sleep where the What’s more, the best apricots of the Digital Manager lions sleep. We photograph only the season are ready to be picked and Henco Meintjes Z T henco@ultimate-africa.com | +27 82 957 9495 most beautiful estates and indulge only in we may just decide to put down our +27 12 425 5800 pink desserts. paddles, hop onto our mountain bikes We couldn’t help but be extra discerning and find out whether the apricots can Advertising Sales sales@ultimate-africa.com | +27 12 425 5800 this month. ever rival the grapes of our country... The 2012 Veritas Awards have set the For now, you may want to replace the Ananda du Toit tone for a summer of award-winning cat/baby/lover on your lap with your ananda@ultimat-africa.com | +27 83 631 7185 wines, and we pride ourselves in the laptop or tablet and get nice and comfy +27 21 552 2829 knowledge that we have featured and you’re in for a great ride. The Ultimate Guide to Southern Africa is published will continue to feature the cream of the monthly by TCB Publishing. Opinions expressed in the publication are not necessarily those of TCB crop (or vine). Publishing or any of their clients. Information has The Caledon beer festival on the 5th been included in good faith by the publisher and is believed to be correct at the time of going to online. will showcase the best in local food and No responsibility can be accepted for errors and beer, and although we do not feature omissions. No material (articles or photographs) in beer (we’re too snobbish for that), we rest the publication may be reproduced, in whole or in part,

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mbrace a true

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without specific written permission from the Editor. Submissions of articles and photographs for publication are welcome, but the publisher, while exercising all reasonable care, cannot be held responsible for any loss or damage. Please ensure that all material is posted by registered mail to PO Box 11273, Hatfield, Pretoria, 0028. Copyright © 2012. All copyright for material appearing in this magazine belongs to TCB Publishing and/or the individual contributors. All rights reserved.

Shumbalala Where the Lion Sleeps

Shumbalala Game Lodge in the Thornybush Private Game Reserve

wahili.....

B a r t h o l o m e u s K l i p • 1 2 A p o s t l e s S p a • W i n e l a n d s P h o t o g r a p hy

Situated

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Central Reservations Office

Tel: 012 653 4340

E-mail: reservations@zwahili.co.za

Web-site: www.zwahili.co.za

200km’s North of Johannesburg in the Limpopo Province in a malaria free area


Stellenbosch Valley

The Parrot MINIKIT Smart is a Bluetooth hands-free kit featuring a Smartphone holder. It can be attached to the windshield or dashboard, enabling you to access the navigation and cell phone features while keeping your hands on the wheel at all times. You can use the MINIKIT Smart to recharge your phone via a USB socket port. Its numerous metal components and chrome finishes combine robustness and elegance. The Parrot MINIKIT Smart can easily switch from portrait to landscape mode to suit any configuration. Using a Smartphone’s hands-free and navigation features in your car is now as easy as ever. For more information visit www.parrot.com

D r D r e ’ s B e at s o n t h e M o v e If you only accept exceptional audio quality and the sound of a pounding bass line gets your heart pumping while a lush midrange moves your mind, the high-definition Beats by Dr Dre Portable Beatbox is the system for you. Don’t let the size of the speaker fool you - this device is perfect for big rooms that need big sound, delivering an audio experience that will rival that of any multi-speaker club system. Top-class engineering allows music to be played the way the artist intended, with distortion-free higher volumes and real bass at all levels. Using either an outlet or 6 “D” cell batteries you can set up the Beatbox Portable just about anywhere you choose. The system is compatible with iPod or iPhone, but also sports eight adapter trays to suit other devices. Additionally, as Bluetooth and wireless speaker docks begin to replace old-fashioned wired systems, the Beatbox Portable allows listeners to access music off laptops, Smartphones and just about any other Bluetooth-enabled device from as far as 30 feet away. The Beatbox Portable comes in stylish white and grey or black and red and includes a pocketsized remote. For more information visit www.phoenixsoftware.co.za 10

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The fine wine people of the south will share the grapes and gourmet glamor of the Stellenbosch Wine Routes with Jozi socialites when Sanlam Private Investments brings the 3rd annual Stellenbosch at Summer Place back for an unsurpassed wine, food, music and art extravaganza on 7 November. Bringing the wonders of the Winelands to Joburg for one night only, South Africa’s granddaddy of wine routes together with Sanlam Private Investments (SPI) have paired the finest winemakers and chefs from the country’s premium wine region for a sophisticated celebration of all things epicurean. From Kanonkop to Kleinood, Waterford to Waterkloof, guests will savour the true spirit of Stellenbosch in style, mingling with 50 top winemakers and estate owners as they showcase and share more than 100 wines and years of quality winemaking. For more information visit www.sanlamprivateinvestments.co.za

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The best part of summer? Longer days, more time to spend in the Winelands and the sensational Summer in Stellenbosch Valley 2012, which takes place from 8 to 17 December this year. The not-to-be-missed holiday highlight takes care of your festive season entertainment, with participating wineries in the Stellenbosch Valley – a sub-route of the Stellenbosch American Express® Wine Route – treating holidaymakers and locals alike to a jam-packed programme of fun, feasts and festivities for young and old. Aside from award-winning wines, the 2012 Summer in Stellenbosch Valley line-up features an exciting ‘bucket list’ of attractions including authentic pairings, markets, braais and entertainment for all ages and tastes. For more information visit www.wineroute.co.za

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Bushveld Bliss

our lives. But, all that has changed – and radically so! The word, the name, the place has moved right onto the centre stage of our world. This is one of those strange occurrences in life, where the previously unknown becomes dear and almost permanent in your universe.

Text: Ivor Jenkins | Images: © : Shumbalala Game Lodge

“The knowledge of the veld, the animals, the trees, the birds and nature, eagerly shared with us by both the game ranger and the animal tracker were truly educational in every sense.”

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rom the moment we drove through the gates of Shumbalala Game Lodge in the Thornybush Private Game Reserve (next to the Kruger National Park), we seemed to be filled with a sense of freedom. We had heard that Shumbalala was an internationally-renowned five-star private bush lodge with the most gentle touch of personal and friendly service, but were wholly unprepared for the lengths to which the Shumbalala staff were prepared to go in order to make each minute feel like a day’s worth of relaxation. The two bush drives per day – and we ended up doing seven in total, as well as a nice long walk in the reserve – never had a dull moment. Whether we left in the early morning while the air was still nippy – with a blanket and hot water bottle to keep us warm – or headed out in the late afternoon to toast the sunset with a glass of wine and a snack, the experience filled us with a sense of beauty and privilege. The knowledge of the veld, the animals, the trees, the birds and nature,

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A month ago, the word Shumbalala was non-existent in my family’s vocabulary and had no meaning in

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eagerly shared with us by both the game ranger and the animal tracker were truly educational in every sense. The exchange of information was dealt with in a patient manner and reflected their deep passion for this mystical place and its inhabitants. Back at the lodge, the highly trained resident chef took a no-holds-barred approach to serving the most tantalising dishes in the most outstandingly decorative way. We also did not have a single meal in the same location. Each meal was served in a different spot, carefully selected to ensure that it was not only the taste but also the environment within which it was served that would leave a lasting impression on our senses. Like most travellers with an overdeveloped sense of duty and commitment to ensuring that business stays on track while away, I had enquired beforehand to ensure the availability of mobile and 3G reception, and promptly packed my laptop to make sure I was not left out of the e-loop. To the amazement and wonder of my children, I did not switch on the laptop or use my cell phone for a record-breaking three days. Just for a short moment in time, they believed that I had miraculously been cured of my virtual addiction! And then there are the rooms. The thought that went into planning the physical space that enhances the experience of ‘bush freedom’ is evident in every detail. Each spacious environment is user-friendly with tasteful African-inspired décor. Of course – as is tradition on the continent for the

Passion • Integrity • Excellence

adventurous traveller – no teenage boy could resist ‘testing’ the outside shower, and no older sister could pass up the opportunity to capture the moment for prosperity! While staying at the lodge, many of the international visitors were keen to engage with us and learn more about South Africa. Each of the different members of our family was probed (in the nicest possible way) about life in this beautiful and diverse country. Two weeks after our return from Shumbalala I received an email from a fellow guest – the CEO of a US organisation – to let me know that, “Those few days in the African bush at Shumbalala was the best holiday we have ever had.” During our few days together, I had learned that this man had travelled to a different country for his annual holiday for the last 20 years! This is indeed a compliment of the highest order, shared in sentiment by my family and myself. Getting on the shuttle to return to Hoedspruit airport was a sad occasion. We felt as if we were leaving behind our souls, complete with a sense of reconnecting with nature. Since that moment we have been comforted by the truth that we take with us a memory, a new word, a new name – Shumbalala. It is a word that has comfortably and permanently weaved its way into our family talk and life and has only to be mentioned for the peace and joy of those four days to settle in the midst of our family and home. Shumbalala Game Lodge is located in Thornybush Reserve. For more information visit www.shumbalala.co.za.

AIRCRAFT CHARTER Gabby van Staden, frequent charter client.

BEECHCRAFT KING AIR 350i

SALES

MAINTENANCE

PA R T S

AV I O N I C S

C H A RT E R

BEECHCRAFT 1900

TRAINING

VA L U E A D D E D P R O D U C T S

FALCON 7X

FINANCE

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“NAC’s VIP Charter service always makes me feel like a rock star! They think of everything I could possibly need and pay special attention to detail, when it comes to my safety, security, privacy and comfort. Wherever I’m headed, NAC’s fleet of long and medium range jets and twin turbine aircraft get me there on time, without the added aggravation of having to deal with check-in queues, waiting for baggage or having to wade through red tape at airport terminals.”

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So if you’re considering chartering a flight, speak to NAC, and they’ll make you feel like an A-lister on the red carpet!” – Gabby van Staden

For more information contact: Charter +27 (0) 82 891 4639 (24 hours) • charter@nac.co.za Lanseria +27 11 267 5000 • Rand +27 11 345 2500 • Grand Central +27 11 312 0360 Cape Town +27 21 425 3868 • Pretoria +27 12 567 5161 • Durban +27 31 571 8316 • Gaborone +267 397 5257 Australia +61 89 429 8881 • USA + 1 316 685 8660 • ISO 9001:2008 Quality Assured • www.nac.co.za


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Text: Dawn Hoole | Images: Š : Lara Potgieter and CT Helicopters

My association with small aircraft has never been a particularly pleasant one. When I was a little girl, my father would scoop me up and plonk me on one of the four tiny seats of his rickety old Cessna, take off with an unearthly rattle and flip-flop the plane and my stomach around in the air

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while some other lucky 5-year-old got to play with Barbie somewhere thousands of feet below.

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View from the Top


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looming peak named after a lowly ship’s pilot, as well as of the city’s leafy residential Southern Suburbs. The Full Peninsula tour takes guests right around the Cape Peninsula for a bird’s eye view of the iconic Cape Point and its surrounding 7750 hectares of richly diverse nature reserve and spectacular rocky coastline, with its rugged rocks and sheer cliffs that tower high above and cut deep into the ocean. Cape Town helicopters also offers a choice of exclusive tours, including a Shark Dive Tour, a Safari Tour, a Winelands Tour and a Whale Watching Tour. Should you opt for the Shark Dive Tour, a helicopter transfer will take you over the mountainous Sir Lowry’s Pass and follow the spectacular coastline to Gansbaai, the fishing village that is absurdly named after geese but famous for its dense population of Great White Sharks. The safari tour will take you to one of the Cape’s majestic wildlife reserves for a full-day safari experience. Should you choose Inverdoorn Game Reserve and Cheetah Sanctuary, you will be treated to a sighting of some of the conservation reserve’s 1200 wild animals that include rhinos, lions, giraffes, zebras, a variety of antelope and, of course, cheetahs. You could alternatively opt to experience Aquila Reserve’s Safari, which includes visits to ancient rock arts sites on the 7500 hectare southern Karoo conservancy that boasts elephants, lions, buffalos,

leopards and rhinos. Should you wish to spend the night at a reserve, you can choose from Sanbona Conservation Reserve’s luxury tents surrounded by awe-inspiring rock formations, its family-oriented thatched lodge with its endless views over the plains or one of its private and lush manor units. Offering a very different experience, the Winelands Tour flies to Stellenbosch, Franschhoek, Constantia or Durbanville, allowing you to indulge in a romantic picnic or visit one of the many prestigious wine estates to experience a taste of the culinary capital of South Africa. Last but first on my wish list is the Whale Watching Tour. The helicopter flies over the Hottentots Holland mountain range that forms the barrier between Cape Town’s metropolis and the southern Overberg coast, to Kleinmond, the small coastal town situated inside a UNESCO-declared Biosphere, with the final landing taking place in Hermanus, the best land-based whale watching destination in the world. Mountains, oceans, beaches, Big 5, sharks, whales, wine...you really can’t ask more of the Cape. Let Cape Town Helicopters take you there in style. For more information or to reserve your seat, call +27 21 418 9462, e-mail adventure@helicopterscapetown or visit www.helicopterscapetown.co.za.

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name ‘Sugar Loaf’ still puzzles me). I marvel at the way in which the bright white beaches of Clifton and Camps Bay, punctuated by falls of granite boulders with almost pure white granitic sand, frame the deep blue of the Atlantic Ocean, and how the Twelve Apostles mountain range cuts the lighter blue of the sky above. My only problem with the flight was that it seemed to be over so soon, and I am definitely going to return to experience one of the other Scenic Peninsula tours operated by Cape Town Helicopters. The problem lies in the difficulty of the choice between flights, each of which offers a unique and unforgettable experience. The Atlantico Tour takes guests a bit further along the Atlantic Coast and includes views of the famous surfing swells of Long Beach and “the gulf between the mountains” (thank you, Bartholomeu Dias, for your imaginative naming) that once confused Dutch East Indies sailors and that is now known as False Bay. The Atlantic Tour’s return circle offers a view of the Karbonkelberg peak, a prominent landmark overlooking Hout Bay that forms part of the Table Mountain National Park. The Two Oceans Tour offers a 360 degree view of Table Mountain, the newly-official natural wonder of the world that Cape Town Mayor Patricia De Lille describes as ‘a symbol of permanence in a world that is full of change’. The flight also affords views of Chapman’s Peak, the

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his association, coupled with the wind that caused enough turbulence on the ground for any adventurer, lead me to reconsider my flight with Cape Town Helicopters last week. ‘We’ll fly if you’ll fly!’ was the animated greeting I received as I was blown into the headquarters at the V&A Waterfront’s helipad. A ten-year-old boy seated in the waiting area answered for me, and before I knew it we were watching a safety demonstration and signing indemnity forms. Once onboard the admittedly impressive four-seater chopper, I braced myself for turbulence and started asking our pilot, Wilhelm, for any anti-nausea pills/tricks/spells that he may have in his back pocket (I think he might have switched off the microphone of my headphone set at some stage). What followed, however, was an experience that changed every small aircraft pre-conception that I had held up to that point. The flight was as smooth as a caramel slide and the glorious sights below were visible in their full splendor rather than as hardly discernible little toy-town pieces. For the first time I could truly marvel at the architecture of the Cape Town Stadium in all its post-Fifa glory. I could finally see how the 2,195-foot high Lion’s Head Mountain got its descriptive name (although the 17th Century English

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Heaven Must be Missing a Chamber

I race down the highway at a speed that could be considered excessive for someone on her way to a spa. Threading in and out of lanes and using my hooter as a vuvuzela, I cause mayhem on the

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otherwise slow, scenic road towards Camps Bay.

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Text: Maggy Kerouac Images: Š Red Carnation Hotels


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beautiful, gentle Indian lady works magic on my body, massaging it from head to toe with a combination of strong hand strokes and hot stone pressure. I gaze upon a large rose quartz as I relish the experience of being calmed with amethyst, detoxified with eucalyptus and black pepper, and energized with marjoram and honey. I venture outside to gaze upon the majestic 12 Apostles Mountain Range and Atlantic Ocean and to settle into the Outdoor Spa Mountain Gazebo to be pampered by elements derived from the natural splendor that surrounds me. I am exfoliated with the salts of the Atlantic and wrapped in an ocean wrap of seaweed and essential oils. I am calmed by hand-picked fynbos and my body is balanced with stones from Table Mountain. I sip on a glass of sparkling wine and enjoy a wholesome fresh meal from the spa menu as I learn about the health and beauty enhancing properties of nature’s apothecary: baobab tree oil, ximenia kernel oil, shea butter, marula oil, mafura butter, avocado butter, African sausage tree, rooibos, mongongo nut, cape aloe and cape chamomile, to name a few. I explore the secrets of ancient wisdom, surrendering to a milk bathing ceremony inspired by Cleopatra and undergoing a traditional Arabic steam and mud rasul chamber ritual. I disappear into oblivion on the restful liquid of the reduced-gravity floatation pool before re-energizing my body and mind in the plunge pool. I round off my day in heaven by sipping herbal tea in the Wild Lanyana

‘Manlicure’ and deep tissue massage? I think I should rather return with him to experience the romantic rasul journey, B-Together rose quartz massage and dinner for two at the hotel’s Azure Restaurant. The possibilities are endless... Visit the Top Hotel Spa of 2012 (as rated by Travel and Leisure’s World’s Best Awards) to be reminded that you don’t need to go speeding over the edge of a highway and into oblivion in order to experience heaven. For more information or to make a reservation, call +27 21 437 9060, e-mail thespa@12apostles.co.za or visit www.12apostleshotel.com.

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know what you’re thinking. The thing is, I’m not on my way to just any spa, but to The 12 Apostles Spa. I’m sure I could convince even a traffic officer to let me off the hook in exchange for just a half hour treatment at this oasis of sensual pleasure and spiritual rejuvenation. As irony would have it, it is at a moment when I slow down to appreciate the incredible Atlantic Ocean beside me that I am almost pushed over the edge of the highway by another speed queen (probably also on her way to the spa). I make it out alive by some stroke of luck and an adrenalin-driven instant race car, but I am more than a little shaken. I am determined to reach my destination, though, and persevere with the journey (completely spellbinding on any other day). A walk across a glass bridge suspended over white caves that shelter an azure plunge pool and rasul chamber later, and I may as well have died on the road because I am in heaven. Everything is white and bright, with splashes of gold and azure. I step into a footbath of milk and fynbos salts while I sit beside a golden Buddha statue and read about aromatherapy and reiki. Scattered amongst the orchids on the table before me are hundreds of shades of nail polish for me to choose from while I am served a fruit feast of salad and freshly-squeezed juice. I am handed a bowl of stones, from which I choose my desired feeling for the day (‘calmed’). I am led past taut, golden men in the chambers below and into a room called ‘Cape Chamomile’. Here a

Aromatherm room. Perhaps next time I will take advantage of the cardio and resistance equipment in the fitness centre, or bring my bum in for a Body Bootcamp treatment to help transform it from the orange I have to the peach I’ve always wanted. Perhaps I will celebrate my next birthday with a SPArty, spoiling my girl friends with cocktails and perfect finish pedicures. I would love to send all the brides-to-be in my life to have all their bridal beauty essentials seen to, or the moms-to-be to enjoy a special Mama Mio Maternity Spa Package. Perhaps I could treat the man in my life to a

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he prestigious Franschhoek wine farm Allée Bleue has re-launched their flagship range of a trio of fine wines with packaging and labelling to match. “When I joined the farm in 2009”, explains winemaker Van Zyl du Toit, “everyone who worked here was clear which wines were in our top range, but that wasn’t always so well understood by the customers! So we’ve gradually been making changes both to the look of the wines as well as to what’s in the bottle, and are now happy that everything has come together to really reflect the quality of Allée Bleue.” The Platinum range consists of three wines – the Pinotage 2009, the red blend L’Amour Toujours 2009 and the white blend, the Isabeau 2011. Of the three, Van Zyl is most proud of the Isabeau, a wine he has developed and tweaked over the last couple of years to create one of the most exciting, food-friendly wines in the Franschhoek Valley. Traditionally a Semillon/ Chardonnay blend, he has increased the proportion of Chardonnay – a variety he loves – and added in just the finest dash of Viognier to add perfume and elegance. “I like to let the wine do its own thing,” he says, “all natural ferments, lots of lees contact, malolactic fermentation in barrels; and the result is a wonderfully ‘wild’ wine which can keep for a long time.” Allée Bleue has long been known for the quality of its Pinotage, which Van Zyl sources from almost fifty-year old bushvines in Piekenierskloof. “I like a Pinotage to

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taste like a Pinotage,” he states, and the 2009 certainly delivers, with its meaty, Marmite flavours, gritty intensity and sour cherry finish. The L’Amour Toujours 2009 is a mainly Bordeaux blend with just a little Grenache Noir adding extra red fruit and spice to the rich black berries with hints of chocolate and cream. All three wines now boast beautiful platinum labels designed by Allée Bleue’s good friends, Emile and Gundul Sogor, who have been responsible for much of the design throughout the estate. The elegant bottles and labels are now easily distinguishable from the premium White Label Range (consisting of Sauvignon Blanc, Chenin Blanc, Shiraz and Cabernet/Merlot) and the good value, entry-level Starlette range with its cheerful blue labels. “We believe this will make it much easier for customers to identify which wines are which, and gives the Platinum Range in particular an outside appearance which now matches the quality of the wine in the bottles,” says Van Zyl. “They certainly stand out now as true flagship wines from Allée Bleue!” The Allée Bleue Isabeau 2011 costs R88 from the cellar door, the Pinotage 2009 is R140 and the L’Amour Toujours is R150. The White Label Range costs between R45 and R87 and the Starlette wines between R35 and R42. For further information call +27 21 874 1021, e-mail info@alleebleue.com or visit www.alleebleue.com.

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Text & Images: © Ian & Lisa Manley

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Photographing

The weather is miserable and I am surprised when Peter arrives at my door at 7am (he clearly takes the maxim ‘thou shalt not shoot at midday’ to heart). The home pick-up itself is a luxury to which I am not accustomed. Yet here he is, with rucksack on back and warm smile on face, both of which

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seem quite out of place on the grey mid-week morning.

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on a Cape Photographic Company Day Tour

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the Winelands

Text: Lara Potgieter | Images: © : Peter Haarhoff

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surprising, as the tours are incredibly affordable and such great value for money. A firm believer in the virtues of the road less travelled, Peter takes us on a real hiking expedition on Delverda wine farm in the famous Cape Winelands . My shoes are hopelessly inappropriate - a technicality which Peter embraces with admirable patience and good humor (‘and you thought you were going to spend an easy day in the winelands!’). Before we set off to find what Peter calls ‘interesting little nanas’ to photograph, we are treated to nothing less than filter coffee and Ouma rusks – the quintessential photographer’s breakfast. Bottles of water and snack packs for our backpacks show that Peter has put much consideration into our comfort throughout the day. Ponchos to protect our knees, should we need to kneel down for a shot (apparently rain is not an issue in this field), suggest the same. We are also each given a notebook, tinfoil reflector, piece of paper for shade and white balance and wires and pegs to clip things out of the way of a shot. Peter’s additional toys include a spray bottle for that sought-after ‘dewy’ effect on leaves and flowers (I tease him about this the whole morning), a pencil bag to use as a telephoto lens, a tripod (yes, apparently you can hike with one), a transparent film case cut down the middle to use as a flash diffuser and old film cases in which to collect dead insects to take home and use for practise (surprised you there, didn’t I?). We prepare for the journey with Peter’s standard pre-shoot ritual, in which we set our cameras perfectly so that we don’t really have to think much or change anything whilst in the field unless the situation changes. Peter and Monica’s ‘Mazerati’ cameras are set according to quality, white balance, mode, drive mode, ISO and exposure compensation. My little ‘Uno’ is changed from

am relieved to see his luxury vehicle and almost wish that our walking photo tour could be replaced with a comfy window safari of sorts. As we drive out to our destination, I am introduced to Peter’s great love of and experience in the photography field in which he has worked for the past 18 years. After the obligatory post-school army stint, Peter worked in a photography shop that would one day inspire his own three shops (complete with a studio in each) and art gallery in Johanesburg. These days he prefers hands-on education to retail and exhibition. Although he does lecture at his base in Noordhoek, he prefers to teach out in the field (come rain or shine, evidently) and is a registered tour guide. Although Peter will be the first to admit that he once told a customer that his camera was broken when he removed the extra lens, he is not shy to boast his subsequent and well-deserved expertise (peppered of course with the necessary self-deprecation of the genuinely amiable): ‘I know photography, and that’s it’ he says. ‘I might not be able to tell you the details of an interesting site, species or artefact, but I will certainly be able to help you get the best shot of it.’ This refreshing honesty is one of the many traits that make Peter a great ‘photo coach’. He is also friendly, animated and funny, cracking jokes and making glorious sound effects all the way. His professionalism is evident immediately in the host of approaches he suggests to a day which most would write off as ill-suited for outdoor photography. Peter offers both individual and group tours, and I am lucky to be one of only two ‘students’ today. My fellow guest is a jovial Canadian, Monica. By the sounds of things, the courses are most popular with tourists visiting the Cape (the previous tour played host to a group of Swedish enthusiasts). I must say, I find the smaller number of locals 28

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An idyllic paradise... with over 14km of soft sandy beaches, crystal-clear, azure waters and virgin forests... Desroches Island is a pristine refuge for romance, adventure and pampered relaxation. With only one upmarket resort, exclusive Desroches Island offers various luxurious accommodation options, ranging from 1 to 5 bedrooms with magnificent ocean views and pristine beaches just a few paces away. A short 40 minute private flight from Mahé in the Seychelles, this is an exceptional destination for diving, fishing, watersport and relaxing in the unparalleled beauty and serenity of nature.

Voted “Top 10 REMoTE HoTELS IN THE WoRLD” Forbes and “oNE oF THE 100 BEST HoTELS IN THE WoRLD” Sunday Times Travel Magazine

RESERVATIONS t +248 437 6750 e reservations@desroches-island.com www.desroches-island.com


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simpler trick that involves only the quick rotation of the camera for a similarly trippy effect. I do this all morning, inviting speculation, no doubt, around what could be perceived as a conspicuous elbow twitch. Other more light-hearted aspects of the expedition include a guessing of which flowers are indeed edible, the naming of a celebrity snail and the retrospective ridiculousness of the fact that we spent almost a whole hour on our bellies in the thick of a majestic poplar forest immersed in the deceptively simple task of photographing a particular water droplet (as Peter muses, Cape Town is called the mother city because it takes nine months of waiting before anything actually happens). When we grudgingly leave our outdoor classroom with its soundtrack of black-winged plovers and the clicks of distant vine clippers, we are consoled with a surprise wine tasting on the estate. Although I would of course recommend the winelands photo tour, Peter also offers shipwreck and lighthouse tours for those more interested in seascapes or lively township tours that can either be experienced ‘new school’ with digital cameras and subsequent digital editing sessions or ‘old school’, in which students can develop and print their photographs in a dark room. Peter also runs an original and worthy NPO called Amaphotophoto, in which he focuses on school leavers in local townships, providing them with skills around which they could possibly build careers in the field. For more information on Peter’s tours and workshops, call him directly on +27 82 853 9939, e-mail him at photocoach@mweb.co.za or visit www.capephoto.co.za.

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your finger at the sun with your thumb at 90 degrees and turn your thumb from horizon to horizon to indicate your polarization band). I wonder what the farm workers pruning the surrounding vines would think of this business of shooting the sun. Peter also (trustingly) allows us to experiment with his neutral density graduated filter to darken the sky and lighten everything below the horizon in a way that seems too simple to warrant the cost of the filter. Economically, I’d say my favorite filter is Peter’s makeshift soft focus filter, which is created by breathing on the camera lens (some things can be manifested ‘out of fresh air’ after all). I am relieved that most of the technical detail is directed towards Monica’s Mazerati, and that Peter provides me with simple advice such as avoiding shooting ‘machine gun style’, focusing on detail when there isn’t necessarily a worthy subject and avoiding ‘viewfinder blindness’, in which all the elements in the foreground, background and sides of a shot are only seen once the photograph has been taken. The overcast conditions are good for dramatic black and white shots, but I learn the advantages of first shooting in color and then editing into black and white. Rules of thirds and lead-in lines such as the rows of flowers on either side of our picturesque path are also new tools for me, as is the psychedelic ‘zoom burst’ in which the ISO is set down to 100, the aperture to F 36, the shutter speed to 0”45 and the lens literally zoomed out as the shutter opens. I am delighted by this last technique (for which the relatively low light conditions of the morning are perfect) but lack both the co-ordination and the camera to make use of it, so Peter shows me a

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Auto to Scene mode. The notebooks prove invaluable, as the sheer amount of theory, tips and skills we learn from the get-go is almost overwhelming. Being a pedantic journo, I am loathe to give my notebook over to Peter for assistance, whilst Monica wisely allows him to record notes for her while she puts her newfound knowledge to practice. We learn that exposure is controlled by three things namely aperture, shutter speed and ISO - and that it is necessary to understand these elements in their entireties before considering the bigger picture (excuse the pun). Conscious of the fact that we really are beginners, Peter takes us back to the basics of inserting an imaginary 1/ before each shutter speed figure to make it a fraction of a second. While he patiently shows me how to hold a camera steady, I learn the hard way that any speed above 1/30 of a second requires a tripod as hiking companion. We learn about the history and function of ISO (International Standards Organisation), as well as how to utilise it correctly (100 for sunny conditions and capturing detail, 200 if you’re not quite sure, 400 for cloudy conditions with flash, action and/or a long lens and 1600 for low light conditions without a tripod). He does not recommend an ISO of 3200 for beginners, explaining to us how the ‘noise’ is created as the light through the lens hits the sensor, which uses amplifiers to convert the image into a digital file. We are also briefed on how to use aperture or lens opening correctly by following the f-stop figures on a camera. The fact that the figure increases as the lens closes tends to confuse people, but we will never forget that F 3.5 is ideal for a shallow depth of field whilst F 22 allows for more depth of field. Peter literally disassembles an old 35mm camera to show us how this works with regards to the physical components of the lens. We learn the pros and cons of JPEG versus raw files, the latter of which should be used if the photo is going to be edited afterwards (the 4096 pieces of color information per color allow for extensive and effective editing of an image that essentially functions as a digital ‘negative’ that can then be saved as a JPEG file for easier saving and sharing). Peter’s favorite photos were taken as raw files and include gems such as a shot of a roaring lion that shows everything down to the hair around its eyes and the marks on its teeth. He relates with horror the incident in which he photographed young elephant bulls mock-fighting in a dam (water, mud and trunks everywhere) in JPEG, describing the resultant ‘soft’ pictures as one would a less-than-memorable ex-lover. We even go into an exploration of filters, with precursory mention of the standard UV filter to protect the lens and a more in-depth exploration of the polarizing lens, which Peter considers to be the most useful of them all. He explains to us how polarization only works at 90 degrees to the sun, showing us how to use this lens effectively (point

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Bartholomeus

Klip

Text: Penny Lane | Images: © Bartholomeus Klip

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ranz was a physically abusive husband, and on one particularly heated night Maria was rescued from his violence by two of the slaves on the farm, the Bengaliborn Titus and the Angolan Fortuijn. The slaves beat Franz to death with a ploughing tool, and it was believed that Maria had in fact orchestrated the attack. Maria was condemned a witch, bound to a pole, scorched and strangled to death, becoming the first white woman in the Cape to receive the death penalty. Titus was impaled on a sharpened stake and left there for 48 hours until he died. Fortuijn had his right hand chopped off and was then broken on the wheel – each limb in turn from the feet upwards. The severed heads and right hands of both slaves were displayed on a pole as a warning at the entrance to Bartholomeus Klip. Almost 300 years later, two young women dressed in brightly coloured t-shirts and frilly summer shorts drive excitedly through the same entrance, listening to Bob Dylan and cooing over the utter charm of the restored Victorian farmhouse illuminated by the warm hues of the golden hour. They are warmly welcomed and encouraged to make the house their own. Glittering glasses of champagne enjoyed on the broad verandah that winds around the

house provide the perfect prelude to their stay. The young ladies are enchanted by the beautifully furnished old manor house, with its high ceiling, stylish finishes and elegant fabrics. The en-suite Victorian-style bathroom of their luxurious double room beckons with roses, fynbos bath salts and lavender toiletries. The faint smell of old woman’s perfume lingers in the air, complementing the atmosphere of old-world elegance. Although tempted by the inviting bath and beds, they choose from a range of Wellington boots in the hallway and head straight down to the lake-sized dam, beside which they admire the sun setting over the Elandsberg mountain range. It’s hard to believe that this exquisite working wheat and sheep farm in the heart of the countryside is only an hour from Cape Town on the N1 highway. Life on the farm seems to follow the cycle of seasons, with golden wheat fields and spring bulbs welcoming them on the warm spring evening. The only thing between the women and the mountains is the 4000 hectare Elandsberg nature reserve, which makes the farm a unique blend of agriculture and conservation. Centuries ago, slaves sat on the rock (‘klip’) beside the dam, watching Signal Hill for signs of new ships with 33

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commemoration of the 1572 St. Bartholomew’s Massacre of the French Huguenots.

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picturesque farm in the Cape’s Wellington Valley. They named the farm Bartholomeus Klip, in

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Fine Country Living

In 1714, Franz Johan van der Lubstadt and his young wife Maria Mouton lived on a

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sunbird, both endemic to the region, as well as the vulnerable black harrier and flocks of South Africa’s national bird, the blue crane. Hadedas, Egyption geese, yellow-billed kites and ostriches are spotted on the ladies’ drive. Many different species of water bird, including the fish eagle, the osprey and various kingfishers have also made a home of the dam. When not eating, on a game drive, sunbathing beside the pristine circular salt water pool or accompanying the chefs to the herb garden, the ladies and their fellow guests enjoy canoeing, mountain biking, bird watching and reading the fascinating literature available in the farmhouse library. It is only on the final evening of their stay, whilst bonding with guests from as far as Portugal, Denmark, Mexico and Ireland, that the two first hear of the murderous history of the farm when a tiny waitress claims to have heard the footsteps of Maria (‘The White Witch’) up and down the hallway the previous night. While it makes for a riveting story and adds to the rich history of the farm, the tale does not scare anyone, and the decision is reached that the ghost of Maria must be spending her time trying to make Bartholomeus as beautiful and charming as possible for those who are able to enjoy it today. So charming, in fact, that it has inspired children’s books, wedding proposals and long-lasting international friendships. While the allure of the farmhouse is striking and ongoing, Bartholomeus Klip also offers a private and exclusive deck house on the edge of the dam for conferences and weddings, and a self-catering house with extensive outdoor living areas and private swimming pool for family holidays. For more information or to make a reservation, visit www.bartholomeusklip.com.

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The renosterveld, in particular, is a seriously threatened veld type. Less than 4% of this unique vegetation still remains, with virtually all of it on privately-owned land. Renosterveld species are of international botanical importance and are used, for example, as a source of traditional medication. The conservation of renosterveld makes a valuable contribution to the greater preservation of global bio-diversity. The ladies find it hard to comprehend this international conservation significance; rather they are drawn in by the intoxicating smell of wild sage and the colourful beauty of the host of flowers they learn to identify. These include ericas, paintbrush lilies, forget-me-nots, trachyandras, tortoise berries, satinflowers, silver serurias, gladiolas, pink satyr orchids, wild rosemary, honey flowers, cape sage, sugarbush and arid pin cushions. The myriad of daisy varieties have the Dutch couple at the back of the open game drive vehicle singing The Daisy Song and the Swedish pair joining in to tell the young ladies ‘’bout the birds and the bees and the flowers and the trees’. The fauna does not disappoint either. The survival of many animal species depends on renosterveld and the habitat it provides. The precarious status of the threatened geometric tortoise, for example, is a good example of the close ties certain species have with the renosterveld habitat. The endangered tortoise survives only in small pockets, of which the Elandsberg reserve is the largest. Other animals that populate the reserve are the endangered Cape zebra and many species of antelope, as well as other mammals such as leopard, lynx and the speedy but curious fluffy bat-eared fox. Although fynbos is generally poor in birdlife, at Elandsberg there are more than 150 species recorded. Notable are the Cape sugarbird and the orange-breasted

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fresh produce. The only signal that interests the ladies on this evening is the call to dinner, which will become over the next few days a herald of the best news they have heard all year. Crumbed asparagus spears with hollandaise sauce and goat’s cheese, mushroom and spinach risotto, sirloin, the sweetest butternut soup in South Africa – these are just some of the treats that see them bounding through the rustic doors at 7:30pm each evening. Life on the farm is slow, simple and very routine. It is also largely structured around the gourmet meals for which Bartholomeus Klip is duly famed. 10am signals brunch in the sunny conservatory, 3pm offers high tea with lamingtons, upside down pear tarts and a host of other sweet and savoury treats in the opulent yet comfortable lounge, and candlelight and the smell of soufflé beckons them in for each evening’s dinner. Meals are punctuated by morning and evening game drives at 8:30am and 4pm. The game drives are different and enlightening, with the farm guide taking the ladies to visit the unique buffalo breeding project and other aspects of the farming operations and reserve that are of interest to them. The reserve was formally declared a provincial nature reserve in 2008 in recognition of its importance to conservation. Its botanical value is incalculable, since it preserves the largest remaining portions of two highly threatened renosterveld and fynbos plant communities, which have otherwise been almost entirely ploughed up for wheat farming. Both renosterveld and fynbos are characteristic of the southwestern Cape, with its Mediterranean climate of long hot summers and mild wet winters, and both have a preponderance of fine-leaved shrubby plants well adapted to survive the summer droughts, along with many colourful annuals and bulbs which mostly flower in the spring.

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T h e C u l i n a r y Pe a r l o f H o u t B ay

I had read only glittering reviews of the manor’s famous Pure restaurant and couldn’t wait to see its under-the-sea themed decor.

Text: Tshepi Molisana Images: © Hout Bay Manor

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n arriving, I wondered which part of the sea those reviewers had been hanging out in. To be honest, ‘under-the-sea’ makes me think of plastic coral centrepieces and fish painted on the walls. Being inside Pure Restaurant feels more like being inside a pearl to me. Hanging and standing chandeliers, a glass roof and an exquisite hand-blown white-silver glass centrepiece (that does not, by the way, look like Neptune’s beard) create a celestial effect that illuminates the soft neutral fabrics and driftwood furniture. If you are still not getting the pearl image, then perhaps we should focus on the real treasure hidden behind the kitchen doors instead. My partner and I are greeted with a platter of warm, sweet lavender bread and an antipasto course of fine bites that include, much to my delight, a blue cheese truffle (who would have thought?). Starters of creamy butternut and goat’s cheese bedded on delicate tortellini and a

colorful display of roast vegetables with artichoke and buffalo mozzarella prepare us for Chef Phillip Arno Botes’s magnum opus. Chef Phillip describes each of his plates as an “exploration”. He has spent several years exploring the world of food, working in climates as diverse as Nigeria, England and Scotland and has sailed the seas as the chef on luxury cruise liners. His culinary roots remain in the Western Cape, though, and he favors the abundance of fresh produce available in the area. I am delighted by the full vegetarian menu and indulge in a smoked butternut risotto with truffle oil, rocket and parmesan. My partner toys with the idea of the rabbit but (wisely) opts rather for a more common meat dish after registering the facial expression of his bunny-hugging dining partner. He ‘explores’ the Karoo lamb with sautéed new potatoes (“As new as they get!” he proclaims rather oddly), rosemary scented garlic confit, broccolini 37

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Of course I was expecting something beautiful at the end of the lamp-lit path at Hout Bay Manor.

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Pure Restaurant

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Hout Bay Manor’s

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N����TOURIST� DESTINATION�IN�GAUTENG

OPEN TILL 21H00 EVERY NIGHT I FULLY LICENSED RESTAURANT I LARGE CURIO SELECTION

The Lion Park is home to more than 85 lions, including the rare white lions, and many other carnivores such as cheetah, wild dog, various hyena species and a variety of antelope indigenous to Africa. The park offers terrific close up views and other exciting interactions, including night game viewing, exclusive cheetah walks, cub interaction, giraffe feeding and an opportunity to experience our famous Alex Larenty’s 3 hour guided tour. We are near Lanseria Airport, within easy reach of Johannesburg and Pretoria. NIGHTLY LION FEEDING ‐ MONDAY TO SATURDAY AT 19H00 I LION FEEDING SUNDAYS AT 12H00

and mint salsa, hailing the lamb as cooked to a perfect medium rare and saying something about it rising to the flavor of the mint salsa. I am too busy surrendering to the rich, creamy oblivion of risotto to listen too carefully to his musings. The food alone makes us giddy, and once the bottle of De Waal Young Vine 2010 Merlot is opened we are so overwhelmed by sensory pleasure that we need to take a moment before ordering the dessert. The whole experience reminds me of a particularly intense sexual encounter, but I crack the heavenly strawberry crème brûlée and distract my mouth with other pleasures before I have the chance to mention anything of the sort (my partner is, after all, a new beau who probably only expects the classiest of ladies to dine at restaurants like these). Alas, my faux-pas fears are assuaged and I no longer have to worry about biting my tongue as I am transported by the divine manifestation of pink feminine delight on my plate. While the gentleman in question enjoys a citrus and ‘Spirit of Klein Constantia Grappa’ cold soufflé with berry-apricot compote, the trio of frozen berry parfait, homemade white chocolate and strawberry ice-cream with rose jelly and tonka bean yoghurt has me revisiting the idea of men as obsolete. Luckily, I hold my tongue again. For more information or to make a reservation, call +27 21 791 93 93, e-mail pure@houtbaymanor.co.za or visit www.houtbaymanor.com/pure. 38

ACTIVITIES OFFERED AT THE LIONPARK Self Drive ‐ 08h30 to 17h00

Year End Function

Guided Game Drive ‐ 09h30 to 20h00

Kiddies Party

Nightly Lion Feed – Monday to Saturday at 19h00

School Excursion

Lion Feed on Sunday at 12h00

Overnight Tented Accommodation

Cub World & Cub Interaction

Children Play Area

Giraffe Feeding

Picnic Area

Exclusive Tour with Alex Larenty

Shuttle Service

Cheetah Walk

Filming – Commercial/Documentaries

Restaurant/Boma Braai/Waterhole(Bar)

Various Photo Opportunities

Conferences/Corporate Function

www.lionpark.com I info@lionpark.com I 087 150 0100 I 011 691 9905/11 I +27 76 187 3883 I +27 82 382 4473 I +27 76 981 7704 I GPS Coordinates: South 25'59.664, East 27'55.881


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f you’re still reading, I’m impressed. The title put me off too, but I persevered and discovered that the less-than-enchanting anecdotes of alcoholism, internet dating and overworked editors are set against a greater backdrop of South African realism. While the protagonist’s suburban loneliness drives her to drink (and eventually to bond with the beautiful African nguni dog she inherits), the hope and faith of the poverty-stricken inhabitants of an area of Durban with zero prospects and minimal resources acts as a sobering foil to her middle-class misery. If people with names like Happiness and Blessed can tear pages out of school exercise books, pour their hearts out in leaking ballpoint pens and ride whatever they can find to the nearest post office to submit their manuscripts, then our poor lonely salaried protagonist can jolly well pull herself together to give each of them a fair reading. Luckily, she does, and I was so moved by the story that author Elana Bregin voices through one particular such hopeful with dusty dreadknots and the face of a hungry street child, that I decided we should all take a break from the indulgence of our privileged lifestyles to read it... The Story of Mr Bin His patch was the concrete island at the big intersection where the busy traffic roared day and night. He was there in rain or heat, walking the white tightrope between the lanes of cars, his footprints worn into the bubbling tar like the imprint of the tyre treads. I saw him each morning as I rode to my job guarding cars in the hospital parking lot at the top of the hill. And then again when I came back at night. We greeted sometimes, when the light was red. Sometimes he sold hats, sometimes black plastic bin bags, sometimes nothing at all. On those days, he was a rubbish bin on legs, cajoling motorists for their scraps of litter to feed into the hungry mouth of the 40

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for Mr Bin and his Brothers

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I saw the sickness in his eyes, then. And I understood that he was giving me his story for safekeeping. Because he knew he would not be needing it much longer. Each day, little by little, the story ebbed out of him, taking his strength with it, then his flesh, until only bones and skin were left. There was nothing I could do to stop it., I could only receive it. I did not write his words down. I did not need to. I knew this story well, because it was also mine. The dust wrote it. The wind sang it. It was the story of every street life, no different to a thousand others. I was born to the pavement, he told me. My mother chained me to the street and then she left. Luck was my father. But he ran off before I was born. Rubbish swirled around us, disguising us. The tarmac heat enveloped us, sucking out all our moisture. Mr Bin no longer had the energy to dance for cars. The windows stayed up. Even the police left him alone. For they knew he would not be there for much longer. His face was the colour of the useless rubbish bag. He did not need my gifts of food any more. He lived on the water I brought him. His heart was a rusted engine fed by oil fumes. His eyes were concrete like the sidewalk. As he sat slumped against the street pole, I could hear the roar of exhausts racing through his bloodstream. The street was taking him back, unmaking him. Just as it had made him. The ancestors demand a lot from us, we who remain behind here in this world of suffering. We who are called on to witness these lives of hardship while being powerless to soothe them. One day my friend just wasn’t there anymore. What happened to him I can’t say. The street took him or the stars took him or the police took him. Then the skin of the street grew over again. There is another road dancer in his place now. This one sells hangers, sells avos, sells rubbish bags, sells himself. Some days he is bent over, like an ancient old man with a hump on his back. Some days he has a flapping sleeve in place of an arm. Some days there is nothing in his hands, just empty palms. An open mouth and a head on a broken stalk of hunger. One day I might stop to get his story. Or maybe I already know it. We all know this Mr Bin. You will meet him many times on your journeys through Africa in particular. I hope this story serves as a reminder for us all to appreciate and share what we have. Our land has so much beauty to offer, but don’t turn a blind eye to its hard realities. They need your attention and investment too.

pale plastic that he carried against his chest, in return for their donations of small change. The cardboard around his neck proclaimed his name: Mr Bin. Small change is hardest of all to part from its owner; I know that well. But when you have no money for stocks, Mr Bin is best. And if the police come, they don’t steal your goods, they just move on. I liked this Mr Bin. I liked the way he worked the street with his quick footwork, hustling from lane to lane and window to window, as many as possible before the red changed. I saw that he was good at what he did. It was the street that trained him. When you are the child of traffic you have to be quick to beat starvation. He danced for the cars and they liked him too. The windows came down, the coins spun up. Sometimes, when the traffic lights were out, he would become the ringmaster, conducting the road. Then the cars would dance for him. He loved the power of that. Holding the beasts at bay with nothing but his skinny arms – the massive panting trucks, the impatient 4x4s, the unruly taxis. They became tamed and docile for him, waiting on his signals to begin their slow and orderly procession across, not one breaking ranks until he said so. It was the only time I ever saw him smile. I could tell he had been on the street for a long time. He knew how to vanish into the cracks of the pavement when trouble came. At night, he disappeared with the sun. Whether he had a shack somewhere, I couldn’t say. Or whether the stars swept him up with their pointed teeth and belched him out again in the morning. Heita, my brother, I said. We knew each other by then. He’d helped me once when my chain jammed, guarding my bike while I ran to the service station to fix the buckled wheel. I came back with a half load filled with meat curry and shared it with him. For I could see from his empty bin bag that people had not been generous with their rubbish that day. That’s how our friendship started. After that we greeted every day. He gave me one of his hats to wear. I gave him one of my shirts. I never asked his name. And he never asked mine. I did not need to ask him where he came from. He was my homeboy, my brother. We shared the same parentage, him and I. We were both orphans of poverty. I told him I was a writer of stories. He said he would give me his. Every day he gave me a little piece of himself in return for the food I shared with him. Swallows flew between us, preparing for their long migration across the world. To fly away from here, he said, watching them. I would like that very much.

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The Views Boutique Hotel

contact

• Call: +27 (0) 41 407 1000 • E-mail: reservations@mantiscollection.com • Website: www.views.co.za / www.mantiscollection.com.

WiFi Spa/Pool/Gym

20km from George Airport

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Designed with chic and contemporary interiors, all 21 rooms and suites are styled for comfort, luxury and exclusivity. The hotel boasts a sophisticated fine dining restaurant, spa facilities with a full range of therapeutic treatments, a fully equipped gym, a roof-top cocktail deck offering possible sightings of whales breaching or dolphins surfing the waves, a heated rim flow pool, business facilities and wi-fi connectivity throughout. Nothing is left to chance and all needs are anticipated and catered for with impeccable service.

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Along the famous Garden Route, set on the Wilderness dunes overlooking the Indian Ocean, the Views Boutique Hotel offers panoramic beach and ocean views.

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The StrandTower Hotel

Word Constantia is close to seven of South Africa’s top wine estates and many internationally celebrated restaurants.
The five-star intimate hotel is in an exclusive area just one minute’s drive from the chic Constantia Mall’s fashionable shops and restaurants. An easy approach to freeways gives guests superb access to all the Cape’s scenic delights, from Simonstown and the False Bay beaches to the City Centre, Waterfront and beyond.

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• Call: +27 21 794 6561 • E-mail: info@thelastword.co.za • Website: www.thelastword.co.za

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access 25-minute drive from Cape Town

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• Call: • E-mail: • Website:www.strandtowerhotel.co.za

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Universal AC S,P,G

Located in Strand Street, in the heart of the city of Cape Town

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Conference Facilities

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access

Accommodation directory

Situated in the Cape’s oldest and most beautiful wine valley, The Last

The Strand Tower hotel offers guests 242 rooms in Standard, Superior, Executive and Deluxe styles. The hotel offers a range of features and facilities to ensure that guests have everything they need at their fingertips. The divine pool deck overlooks Strand and Loop Streets, and is an oasis-like location for a late afternoon dip after a long day of sightseeing. There is also a restaurant, a gym, sauna and steam room overlooking Table Mountain and the city centre on the 17th and 18th floors respectively, a newly renovated bar and lounge, an Executive Lounge, conferencing facilities for up to 200 people, 24-hour reception, porterage, a concierge and a coffee shop. The Strand Tower Hotel has everything you need for your stay in Cape Town, whether you are visiting for business or pleasure!

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Word Constantia, which is a mere 25-minute drive from Cape Town.

The Strand Tower Hotel is located in Strand Street, in the heart of the city of Cape Town.

45

in the know

Vibrant indigenous flora and vivid exotic plant life create a serene ambience at The Last

Services Guide

Accommodation guide

ConstantiaThe Last Word

for Luxury Travel

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QuartersHotel Hermanus

contact

• Call: +27 11 314 4350 • E-mail: • Website: www.taugamelodge.co.za

WiFi Spa/Pool/Gym

eclectic ambience. Business and conference facilities accommodating up to 45 people are available and include wi-fi access and a private boardroom. The hotel is situated close to popular shops and boutiques, restaurants, and a wellness centre. Golfing, whale-watching and hiking are all on offer in the area.

contact

• Call: +27 28 313 7700 • E-mail: • Website: reservations@quartershermanus.co.za.

Spa/Pool/Gym

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Child Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Air-conditioning

Malaria Free

Universal AC P

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90-minute scenic drive from Cape Town International Airport

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Child Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Air-conditioning

Malaria Free

Conference Facilities

Conference Facilities

access

Accommodation directory

Four-hour drive from Johannesburg or 50-minute daily scheduled flight from Johannesburg International airport.

In true “Quarters” style, the hotel offers an understated elegance and

WiFi

Universal AC S,P,G

access

spectacular views from its eighteen spacious rooms.

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Boasting 27 major species of game, Madikwe is the fourth largest game reserve in the country. The perfect South African luxury safari holiday destination, Tau Game Lodge offers both Big Five and birdwatching safaris. Overlooking a vast natural waterhole, it offers an idyllic wedding as well as conference venue. Adults can indulge in a range of decadent treatments at the Tau Spa while children enjoy the myriad of kiddies’ activities available.

Hermanus’s superbly positioned Quarters Hotel overlooks the village’s historic harbour, boasting

47

in the know

The privately-owned Tau Game Lodge is situated in the Madikwe Game reserve in the beautiful Great Marico area on the far northern border of South Africa.

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Accommodation guide

TauGame Lodge

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Guide accommodation

De ZeakoeGuest Farm

EcoTraining Pioneers and Leaders in Field Guiding and Nature Training

Conveniently situated on the longest wine route in South Africa, namely Cape Route 62, De Zeekoe’s unique charm attracts guests of a different kind. People from all walks of life visit this stylish African farm in search of a unique experience. De Zeekoe is an owner managed farm of 2000 hectares only 8 km from Oudtshoorn, in the Klein Karoo and situated on the longest wine route - R 62. De Zeakoe is a working farm with ostriches, springbuck,Bonsmara cows and Lusern (alfalfa). It boasts stunning views of the mountains and riverbed (Olifant’s River), and offers a chance to see over 162 species of birds. De Zeakoe is located in part of the 17 hotspots of the world, with overlapping flower zones. It offers 16 stylish rooms and 4 rustic log cabins situated on the water’s edge.

contact

• Call: +27 44 272 6721 • E-mail: info@dezeekoe.co.za • Website: www.dezeekoe.co.za

WiFi Spa/Pool/Gym

Universal AC S,P

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Child Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Air-conditioning

Malaria Free

Conference Facilities

Wheelchair Friendly

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access 8 km from Oudtshoorn, in the Klein Karoo and situated on the longest wine route - R 62

We provide a wide range of courses, professional and adventurous. Our training takes place at bush camps, which collectively open the door to more than a 100 000 hectares of stunning wilderness teeming with game, including the big five as well as antelope and a huge diversity of birds. Courses: Professional Field Guide (one year) FGASA Level One and EcoTraining Safari Guide Trails Guide Kenya Safari Guide EcoQuest (7 & 14 days) Birding with Bruce Lawson Game Ranger - Ralf Kalwa Short Courses: Tracking, Survival, Biomimicry Camps in: South Africa, Botswana and Kenya

www.ecotraining.co.za Tel: (013) 752-2532 E-mail: enquiries@ecotraining.co.za


P r ese n t i ng

Azanzi

Beach Hotel

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A guide to some of Zanzibar’s top properties

for Luxury Travel

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Mkokotoni Matenwe

Kiwengwa Mangapwani Pongwe

Accommodation directory

An intimate, all-suite boutique hotel on the eastern shoreline of the mystical Zanzibar Island. The central guest entertainment and guest areas of Azanzi flow into vast uninterrupted stretches of silk-like sand. The hotel suites feature an array of guest comforts designed to pamper you during the quieter moments of

Chwaka

your fun-filled days. Your hosts will be delighted to arrange any number

Mkokotoni Matenwe

of activities for you, including snorkeling, diving, dhow trips and historic village tours. Alternatively, you may simply want to laze in the shallows of

Paje

the water’s edge or cool off in the pool.

contact

Jambiani

Pongwe

• Call: +27 11 781 1661 • E-mail: res@anthology.co.za • Website: www.azanzibeachhotel.com

Stone Town

Services directory

Bwejuu

Kiwengwa Mangapwani

Chwaka

Bwejuu

Makunduchi

Kizimkazi

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WiFi Spa/Pool/Gym

Universal AC S,P

Paje

Smoking Rooms

Disabled Access

Room Service

Jambiani

Child Friendly

Guided Drive/Walk

Makunduchi

Air-conditioning

Malaria Free

Conference Facilities

Wheelchair Friendly

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Kizimkazi

in the know

Stone Town


National Airways Corporation

Contact our experienced Charter Sales team to package your next African adventure.

contact

52

• Call: +2782 891-4639 (24 hours) • +2711 267-5427 (Office hours) • E-mail: charter@nac.co.za • Website: www.nac.co.za

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Regulars Accommodation directory

Our extensive fleet of charter aircraft (average aircraft age 5 years) caters for any requirement – from lodge transfers to overborder flights into Africa. Our turboprop charter aircraft fleet consists of the Pilatus PC12; Cessna Grand Caravan; King Air 90, 200, 350; Embraer 120 and Beechcraft 1900C and D. Our jet fleet includes the Premier 1; Embraer Phenom 300, LearJet 45XR, 60; Hawker 800XP, 1000, 4000 and a Challenger 300.

Services directory

As the oldest general aviation company in South Africa, NAC not only comply to strict safety and operational regulations from the SA Civil Aviation Authority, but NAC has also passed various international audits, with approvals from not only the mining and resource sector, but also corporate institutions worldwide. Over and above our top standing with these regulatory bodies, NAC is also the only ISO9001:2008 general aviation company in South Africa.

Services Guide

Accommodation guide

A guide to some of the finest services South Africa has to offer

in the know

P r ese n t i ng

NAC

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Airline

Peermont

Hotels

airfares and the best service – a need that is summarized in their company ethos of “More Nice, Less Price”. 1time airline currently travels to six South African destinations, including Johannesburg, Cape Town, George, Port Elizabeth, East London and Durban. Regionally, 1time airline is the only low cost airline in South Africa to offer budget flights to regional destinations in Southern Africa. These include Zanzibar and Zambia. A flight to Kenya has also recently been

Africa and Botswana. Peermont Hotels, Casinos and Resorts is a hospitality and gaming company that operates in South Africa and Botswana. Peermont has an excellent track record in the design, development, management, ownership and operation of multi-faceted integrated resorts, including hotels, casinos, convention centres, retail centres, health spas, restaurants, bars and other sport and entertainment facilities.

contact

contact

• Call: +27 86 8000 • Website: www.1time.aero

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• Call: +27 11 557 0557 • E-mail: info@peermont.com • Website: www.peermont.com

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Regulars in the know

Services directory

added to the schedule.

Peermont Hotels, Casinos and Resorts is a hospitality and gaming company that operates in South

Accommodation directory

Since its inception, 1time airline has satisfied the public’s hunger for an airline that is focused on the lowest

Services Guide

Accommodation guide

1time

for Luxury Travel

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Signature Life Hotels

across South Africa. Avoid the crowds, make a phone call in peace, surf the net, use business facilities or just relax with a drink and a snack. There are smoking and non-smoking rooms to suit your style. You can find a Premier Lounge in every local and international departure terminal of all major South African

Signature Life Hotels was named Africa’s leading Innovative hospitality company by the World Travel Awards in 2010. Signature Life offers the hospitality industry, particularly the owners of hotel and leisure properties, unique and profitable hospitality solutions.
 The goal of the group is to operate sustainable, profitable, well-developed hotels throughout Africa. All Life Hotels, Quarters

airports. The lounges are open daily from one hour prior to the first flight

Hotels Signature Safaris and Signature Hotels fall under Signature Life

leaving to 30 minutes after the last flight has left from O R Tambo, Cape

Hotels management.

contact

• Call: +27 86 124 3247 • Email: rosalynb@bidair.co.za • Website: www.bidvestlounge.co.za

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contact

• Call: +27 31 312 6250 • E-mail: info@lifehospitality.com • Website: www.signaturelifehotels.com

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Regulars in the know

Services directory

Town, King Shaka, George, East London and Port Elizabeth airports.

Accommodation directory

Premier Lounge is the business lounge service of choice for high-end business and leisure travelers

Services Guide

Accommodation guide

Bidvest Premier Lounges

for Luxury Travel

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ThreeCitiesInternational Hotels

world’s unsurpassed travelling experiences.

in the tourism industry.

In 2010 alone, The Blue Train won the coveted accolade of “Africa’s Leading Luxury Train” at The World Travel Awards, and was voted “Condé Nast Traveller Reader’s Favourite Specialist Train.” The routes of The Blue Train – both scheduled and chartered – take guests through some of the most breathtaking countryside to be found anywhere in the world. Routes include Cape Town/Pretoria; Pretoria/ Durban and Pretoria/Pilanesberg.

The Three Cities Group offers specialized services in the tourism industry, managing and marketing over 30 quality tourism and leisure properties with a strong network of sales and marketing specialists working out of Johannesburg, Durban, Cape Town and London. The group’s distinctively unique portfolio of properties includes city hotels, resorts, exceptional safaris and three campuses of The International Hotel School.

Regulars Accommodation directory

The Three Cities Group was formed in 1988 as a hospitality group offering specialized services

contact

contact

• Call: +27 12 334 8459 • E-mail: info@bluetrain.co.za • Website: www.bluetrain.co.za

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• Call: +27 31 310 3333 • E-mail: developments@threecities.co.za • Website: www.threecities.co.za

59

in the know

Services directory

For more than 60 years, The Blue Train has enjoyed an international reputation as one of the

Services Guide

Accommodation guide

The Blue Train

for Luxury Travel

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Reuben’s Restaurant & Bar

integrity of the main ingredient of a dish. At Dutch East, fresh is best and the freshest available ingredients are sourced each day. Head Chef Pasch du Plooy is a leading figure in the culinary world of the Cape Winelands, pioneering the way with his exciting mix of local Dutch and Eastern cuisine.

Chef Rueben Riffel’s passion for creating fine yet uncomplicated cuisine is celebrated at his top yet laid-back restaurant in Franschhoek. The menu offers staunch South African favorites as well as specials that are updated daily to take advantage of the finest ingredients on the market. In the heart of the South African winelands, the restaurant boasts an excellent wine menu. Reuben’s restaurant and bar combines all the

contact

• Call: +27 21 876 3547 • Website: www.dutcheast.co.za

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contact

• Call: +27 21 876 3772 • E-mail: reubens@mweb.co.za • Website: www.reubens.co.za

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Regulars in the know

Services directory

ingredients for the perfect get together.

Accommodation directory

The Dutch East restaurant in Franschhoek believes in the values of simplicity and preserving the

Services Guide

Accommodation guide

Dutch East Restaurant

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Madikwe Game Lodge

Regulars

for Luxury Travel

The privately-owned Tau Game Lodge is situated in the Madikwe Game reserve in the beautiful Great Marico

towards a commercial license and conversions and type ratings at a CAA approved training facility.

area on the far northern border of South Africa.

It also offers aerial game viewing and management opportunities as well as flights to

Boasting 27 major species of game, Madikwe is the fourth largest game reserve in the country. The perfect

celebrate special occasions. Their Alert HeliTrack service provides air support to assist in

South African luxury safari holiday destination, Tau Game Lodge offers both Big Five and bird-watching

tracing the perpetrators of rhino poaching and farm attacks. Indigo Helicopters is situated

safaris. Overlooking a vast natural waterhole, it offers an idyllic wedding as well as conference venue. Adults

in Onverwacht and offer lodge-style accommodation.

can indulge in a range of decadent treatments at the Tau Spa while children enjoy the myriad of kiddies’

contact

contact

• Call: 082 927 4031 • E-mail: Gerhard@indigohelicopters.co.za • Website: www.indigohelicopters.co.za

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• Call: +27 11 314 4350 • E-mail: taugame@mweb.co.za • Website: www.taugamelodge.co.za

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in the know

Services directory

activities available.

Accommodation directory

Indigo Helicopters offers helicopter pilot training (CAA/0348) by PPL and CPL instructors, hour building

Services Guide

Accommodation guide

IndigoHelicopters

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West

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G uide North

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Birds of Prey Rescue, Rehabilitation, Conservation & Awareness Centre

Services Guide

A WILDLIFE ADVENTURE in the heart of the Stellenbosch Winelands!

Features

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A concise, grouped luxury property listing for your convenience

Accommodation guide

EAGLE ENCOUNTERS

D i r ect o ry

Up-Close Encounters with Eagles, Owls, Hawks & Kites like you’ve never experienced before.

Accommodation directory

4 unique, exciting & interactive flying shows daily (11h00, 14h00, 15h00 & 16h00) Private Viewings & Off-Site Events by arrangement.

Services directory

Spier Wine Estate, Baden Powell Drive (R310), Stellenbosch Tel: +27 (0)21 858-1826 / +27 (0)84 584-3684 www.eagle-encounters.co.za

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in the know

The Cape Winelands have so much more to offer than just wine...


Location: 8 Frank Road, St Francis Bay Tel: +2742 294 1888
 Email: thesands@pehotels.co.za Web: www.thesands.co.za

Location: Kariega Game Reserve, Kenton-on-Sea Tel: +2741 581 2606 E-mail: reservations@kariega.net 
 Web: www.kariega.co.za

Kuzuko Lodge Location: Olivenfontein Farm, Kommadagga, Addo Elephant National Park Tel: 0800 468 357 or +2711 806 6888 E-mail: hotels@legacyhotels.co.za Web: www.legacyhotels.co.za

Tsala Treetop Lodge

Tenahead Mountain Lodge & Spa Location: Naudes Nek Pass, Rhodes Tel: +2745 971 8901 E-mail: reservations@riverhotels.co.za Web: www.riverhotels.co.za/tenahead

Location: Hunters Estate, Harkerville, Plettenberg Bay Tel: +2744 501 1111 E-mail: res@hunterhotels.com Web: www.hunterhotels.com

Moya Manzi Beach House Location: 17 Toevlugs Place
, Paradise Beach, Jeffery’s Bay Tel: +2742 292 0780 E-mail: info@moyamanzi.com Web: www.moyamanzi.com

Blue Lagoon Hotel & Conference Centre Location: Blue Bend Place, Beacon Bay, East London Tel: +2743 748 4821 E-mail: reservations@bluelagoonhotel.co.za Web: www.bluelagoonhotel.co.za

Mpekweni Beach Resort Location: R72 Coastal Rd, Between Port Alfred and East London Tel: +2740 676 1026 E-mail: info@mpekweni.co.za Web: www.mpekweni.com

Quarry Lake Inn Location: Quartzite Drive, off Pearce St, The Quarry, EL Tel: +2743 707 5400 E-mail: info@quarrylakein.co.za Web: www.quarrylakeinn.co.za

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Prana Lodge

Kichaka Private Game Lodge

Location: Chintsa East. Wild Coast Tel: +2743 704 5119 E-mail: info@pranalodge.co.za Web: www.pranalodge.co.za

Location: Assegaai Bush, Grahamstown Tel: +2746 622 6024 E-mail: reservations@kichaka.co.za Web: www.kichaka.co.za

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Regulars Features

Location: 1 Sidbury Farm, Sidbury, Makana District, Port Elizabeth Tel: +2742 203 1400 E-mail: reservations@kwantu.co.za Web: www.kwantu.co.za

Accommodation guide

River Lodge

Services Guide

The Sands

Accommodation directory

Eastern Cape

Kwantu Game Reserve

Services directory

accommodation

for Luxury Travel

in the know

Ultimate guide to Africa -

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Location: C/O Third Ave & Brill St, Westdene
 Bloemfontein Tel: + 27 51 406 0900 E-mail: info@cbhc.co.za Web: www.cbhc.co.za

Lazy Lizard Guest House Location: 109 Henry Street, Park West, Bloemfontein Tel: +27 51 444 5075 E-mail: info@lizard.co.za Web: www.lizard.co.za

Oranje Guest Farm Location: Fouriesberg Tel: +27 58 223 0412 Email: oranjegh@mweb.co.za Web: www.oranjegasteplaas.co.za

De Stijl Gariep Hotel

Hobbit Boutique Hotel

Location: 2 Aasvoel St, Gariep Dam Tel: +27 51 754 0060 Email: info@destijl.co.za Web: www.destijl.co.za

Location: 19 President Steyn Avenue, Brandwag Bloemfontein Tel: +27 51 447 0663 E-mail: info@hobbit.co.za Web: www.hobbit.co.za

De Oude Kraal Country Estate and Spa Location: 35km South of Bloemfontein Tel: +27 51 5640 733 E-mail: info@deoudekraal.co.za Web: www.deoudekraal.co.za

Wild Horses Mountain Lodge

A Summer Place Boutique Guest House

Location: Amanzi Amakhulu Estate, Sterkfontein Dam Harrismith Tel: +27 58 622 7000 E-mail: hawkinsgroup@telkomsa.net Web: www.wildhorses.co.za

Emoya Hotel & Spa San Rock Guest House

Location: Frans Kleynhans Drive, Groenvlei Tel: +27 51 436 8471 E-mail: info@emoya.co.za Web: www.emoya.co.za

Location: Clarens Tel: +27 83 292 3371 E-mail: janetjam@netactive.co.za Web: www.sanrock-guesthouse.com

Location: 18 Stegmann St, Universitas, Bloemfontein Tel: +27 51 522 2412 E-mail: info@thesummerplace.co.za Web: www.thesummerplace.co.za

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Regulars Features

Location: Bethlehem Tel: +27 58 303 1673 E-mail: info@lavenderhillestate.co.za Web: www.lavenderhillestate.co.za

Accommodation guide

Corporate Boutique Hotel

Services Guide

Lekoa Game Lodge Location: Wolfenfontein Farm, Villiers, Helibron Tel: +27 58 821 0601 E-mail: riette@lekoalodge.com Web: www.lekoalodge.com

Accommodation directory

Free State

Lavender Hill Country Estate

Services directory

accommodation

for Luxury Travel

in the know

Ultimate guide to Africa -

directory Accommodation


Location: Cnr Union Ave & Main Rd, Kliptown, Soweto Tel: +27 21 794 9050 E-mail: reservations@sowetohotel.co.za Web: www.sowetohotel.co.za

Location: 13 Garrick Rd, Darrenwood, Johannesburg Tel: +27 11 888 1437 E-mail: info@idwala.com Web: www.idwala.com

Location: 643 Corner of Church & Wessels Streets, Arcadia, Pretoria Tel: +27 12 429 9999 E-mail: pretoria@sheraton.co.za Web: www.sheratonpretoria.com

Goodnight Lodge

The Michelangelo Hotel

National Airways Corporation

Shumba Valley Lodge Location: Malibongwe Drive Extension, Lanseria West Rand Tel: +27 11 790 8000 E-mail: shumbavalley@shumbavalley.co.za Web: www.shumbavalley.co.za

The Westcliff Hotel Location: 67 Jan Smuts Avenue, Westcliff, Johannesburg Tel: +27 11 481 6000 E-mail: reservations@westcliff.co.za Web: www.westcliff.co.za

Accolades Bed and Breakfast Location: 72 Dale Road, President Park, Midrand Tel: +27 11 022 3668 E-mail: accommodation@accolades.org.za Web: www.accolades.org.za

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Location: 153 West St, Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton Tel: +27 11 806 6888 E-mail: michelangelo@legacyhotels.com Web: www.michelangelo.co.za

Location: 13 Arterial Road, West Oriel, Bedfordview Tel: +27 11 615 8363 E-mail: res@goodnight.co.za Web: www.goodnight.co.za

Regulars Accommodation directory

Head Office: Lanseria, Johannesburg Tel: +2782 891-4639 (24 hours) Tel: +2711 267-5427 (Office hours) E-mail: charter@nac.co.za Web: www.nac.co.za

Features

Sheraton Pretoria Hotel

Accommodation guide

Idwala Guest House

De Hoek Country Hotel

The Winston Hotel

Location: Plot 7, Zeekoehoek, Magaliesburg Tel: +27 14 577 9600 E-mail: reservations@dehoek.com Web: www.dehoek.com

Location: 6 Tottenham Avenue, Melrose Estate, Sandton Tel: +27 11 268 3140 E-mail: info@thewinstonhotel.co.za Web: www.thewinstonhotel.co.za

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Services directory

Gauteng

Soweto Hotel on Freedom Square

in the know

accommodation & Services

for Luxury Travel

Services Guide

Ultimate guide to Africa -

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Location: AmaZulu Private Game Reserve, Pongola Northern Zululand Tel: +27 34 414 1157 E-mail: info@amakhosi.com Web: www.amakhosi.com

Hilton Durban Hotel Location: 12–14 Walnut Rd, Durban Central Tel: +27 31 336 8100 E-mail: Web: www.hilton.com/durban

Beachcomber Bay Location: 75 Marine Drive, Ramsgate, South Coast Tel: +27 39 317 4473
 E-mail: info@beachcomberbay.co.za Web: www.beachcomberbay.co.za

Hartford House

Thanda Game Lodge & Tented Safari Camp

Location: Hlatikulu Rd, Mooi River, Natal Midlands Tel: +27 21 794 9050 E-mail: info@hartford.co.za Web: www.hartford.co.za

Location: Thanda Private Game Reserve, Between Hluhluwe & Mkuze Tel: +27 86 184 2632, E-mail: reservations@thanda.co.za Web: www.thanda.com

Ammazulu African Palace Location: 20 Windsor Road, Kloof, Durban Tel: +27 31 764 8000 E-mail: info@ammazulupalace.com Web: www.ammazulupalace.com

The Gorge Private Game Lodge & Spa Location: Lot 14, Pengaan Farm, Oribi Gorge, South Coast Tel: +27 39 687 4000 E-mail: info@thegorge.co.za Web: www.thegorge.co.za

Upton Hall Boutique Guesthouse Location: 16 Eastbourne Road, Morningside, Durban Tel: +27 31 303 7987 E-mail: info@uptonhall.co.za Web: www.uptonhall.co.za

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Isandlwana Lodge The Vineyard on Ballito

Location: Isandlwana, Zululand Tel: +27 34 271 8301 E-mail: www.isandlwana.co.za Web: www.isandlwana.co.za

Location: 1 Ashley Road, Ballito, Dolphin Coast Tel: +27 32 946 1204 E-mail: info@vineyardonballito.co.za Web: www.vineyardonballito.co.za

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Regulars Features

Location: 2 Lighthouse Rd, Umhlanga Rocks, Durban Tel: : +27 21 794 9050 E-mail: info@oysterbox.co.za Web: www.oysterbox.co.za

Accommodation guide

Amakhosi Safari Lodge

Services Guide

The Estuary Country Hotel Location: Old Main Road, Port Edward, South Coast Tel: +27 39 311 2675 E-mail: reservations@estuaryhotel.co.za Web: www.estuaryhotel.co.za

Accommodation directory

Kwa-Zulu Natal

The Oyster Box Hotel

Services directory

accommodation

for Luxury Travel

in the know

Ultimate guide to Africa -

directory Accommodation


Nkonka Bush Lodge

Witwater Safari Lodge and Spa

Location: R522 from Louis Trichardt to Vivo, Louis Trichardt Tel: +27 15 516 0220 E-mail: info@madiathava.com Web: www.mountainfarmlodge.com

Location: Melkrivier Road, Between Melkrivier and Vaalwater Tel: +27 14 755 4170 E-mail: enquiries@nkonkabushlodge.co.za Web: www.nkonkabushlodge.co.za

Location:Marken / Witwater Dirt Road, Naboomspruit Tel: +27 11 675 0000 E-mail: info@witwater.com Web: www.witwater.com

Location: Koedoeskop Road, Northam Tel: +27 14 784 0497 E-mail: info@angasii.co.za Web: www.angasii.co.za

Makalali Private Game Lodge Pondoro Game Lodge

Location: Bela Bela Tel: +27 14 734 7700 E-mail: reception@zebula.co.za Web: www.zebula.co.za

Bivack Game Lodge Location: Alldays Tel: +27 12 343 0115 E-mail: reservations@bivack.com Web: www.bivack.com

Mopane Bush Lodge

Di-Ella Game Lodge

Location: R572 Musina Pontdrif Road, Mapungubwe Tel: +27 83 633 0765 E-mail: info@mopanebushlodge.co.za Web: www.mopanebushlodge.co.za

Location: Matjiesfontein, Kopermyn Road, Polokwane Tel: +27 82 808 9205 E-mail: info@diellagamelodge.co.za Web: www.diellagamelodge.co.za

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Waterberg Convention Centre

Zwahili Private Game Lodge

Location:Olienhout Street, Nylstroom Tel: +27 14 717 3737 E-mail: admin@nylstene.co.za Web: www.waterbergconventioncentre.co.za

Location: Modimolle / Nylstroom Tel: +27 12 653 4340 E-mail: zwahili@iafrica.com Web: www.zwahili.co.za

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Services Guide

Zebula Golf Estate & Spa

Location: Balule Game Reserve, Hoedspruit District, Greater Kruger National Park Tel: +27 31 764 5049 E-mail: pondoro@mweb.co.za Web: www.pondoro.co.za

Accommodation directory

Location: Harmony Block, Gravelott Road, Hoedspruit Tel: +27 15 793 9300 E-mail: reservations@aha.travel Web: www.makalali.co.za

Regulars Accommodation guide

Angasii Game Lodge

Services directory

Limpopo

Madi a Thavha Mountain Lodge

in the know

accommodation

for Luxury Travel

Features

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Mount Sheba Country Lodge

Umbhaba Lodge

Location: Ohrigstad Tel: +27 (0)13 238-8900 E-mail: relax@iketla.com Web: www.iketla.com

Location: Pilgrim’s Rest Tel: +27 13 768 1241 E-mail: shebares@foreversa.co.za
 Web: www.mountsheba.co.za

Location: Hazyview Tel: +27 13 737 7636 E-mail: reservations@umbhaba.co.za Web: www.umbhaba.co.za

Location:Blyde River Botanical Reserve, Panorama Route Tel: +27 15 795 5305 E-mail: canyon@worldonline.co.za Web: www.blyderivercanyon.co.za

Jock Safari Lodge Porcupine Ridge Guest House

Location: Portion 38 Farm, Peebles, White River Tel: + 27 82 479 9700 E-mail: amanda@umsisihouse.co.za Web: www.umsisihouse.co.za

Francolin Lodge Location: 4 Du Preez St, Nelspruit Tel: +27 13 744 1251 E-mail: info@francolinlodge.co.za Web: www.francolinlodge.co.za

Komati Gorge Lodge

Highgrove House Country Hotel

Location: Farm Waterval JT424, Machadodorp, Tel: +27 17 843 3920 E-mail: komatigorge@telkomsa.net Web: www.komatigorge.co.za

Location: 1 Highgrove Avenue, Kiepersol Tel: +27 13 764 1844 E-mail: house@highgrove.co.za Web: www.highgrove.co.za

76

Tinga Private Game Lodge

Walkersons Hotel and Spa

Location: Skukuza, Kruger National Park Tel: +27 11 880 9992 Email: tinga@morehotels.co.za Web: www.tingalodge.co.za

Location: Walkersons Private Estate, Dullstroom Tel: +27 13 253 7000 E-mail: reservations@walkersons.co.za Web: www.walkersons.co.za

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Services Guide

umSisi House

Location: 5 Vanaxe Estate, Hazyview Road, Sabie Tel: +27 (0)82 818-0277 E-mail: stay@porcupineridge.co.za Web: www.porcupineridge.co.za

Accommodation directory

Location: Halfway between Skukuza & Malelane Kruger Park Tel: +27 41 509 3000 E-mail: reservations@jocksafarilodge.com Web: www.jocksafarilodge.com

Regulars Accommodation guide

Blyde River Canyon Lodge

Services directory

Mpumalanga

Iketla Lodge

in the know

accommodation

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Location: Madikwe Game Reserve Tel: +27 11 805 9995 E-mail: reservations1@aha.travel Web: www.thakadurivercamp.com

Location:80 Nelson Mandela Drive, Mafikeng Tel: +27 18 381 0400 E-mail: res2@phmafikeng.co.za Web: http://www.proteahotels.com/protea-hotelmafikeng.html

Buffalo Ridge Safari Lodge

Impodimo Game Lodge

Location: 2Buffalo Ridge, Madikwe Game Reserve Tel: +27 11 805 9995 E-mail: reservations@buffaloridgesafari.com Web: www.buffaloridgesafari.com

Location: Madikwe Game Reserve Tel: +27 18 350 9400
 E-mail: reservations@impodimo.com Web: www.impomdimo.com

Tuningi Safari Lodge

Shepherd’s Tree Game Lodge

Location: Madikwe Game Reserve Tel: +27 11 781 5384 E-mail: reservations@tuningi.co.za Web: www.tuningi.com

Location: Pilanesberg National Park Tel: +27 11 781 1661
 E-mail: res@shepherdstree.co.za
 Web: www.shepherdstree.co.za

Kedar Country Hotel Location: R565, Boekenhoutfontein, Phokeng Tel: +27 11 679 2994 E-mail: reservation@kedarcountryhotel.com Web: www.kedarcountryhotel.com

Leopard Lodge Location: R560 Scheerpoort, Kosmos, Hartbeespoort Dam Tel: +27 12 207 1130 E-mail: info@leopardlodge.co.za Web: www.leopardlodge.co.za

Kwa Maritane Bush Lodge Location: Pilanesberg National Park Tel: +27 21 794 9050 E-mail: kwamaritane@legacyhotels.com Web: www.kwamaritane.co.za

Scott’s Manor Guest House

Boschdal Guesthouse

Location: 21 Bree Street, Lichtenburg Tel: +27 18 632 0255 E-mail: scottsmanor@intekom.co.za Web: www.scottsmanor.co.za

Location: 42 Witstinkhout Avenue, Rustenburg Tel: +27 14 533 3783 E-mail: guest1@boschdal.co.za Web: www.boschdal.co.za

78

79

Regulars Features

Location: 38 Scott Street, Schoemansville, Hartbeespoort Dam Tel: +27 12 253 2532 E-mail: info@stirling-manor.com Web: www.stirling-manor.com

Accommodation guide

Protea Hotel Mafikeng

Services Guide

Thakadu River Camp

Accommodation directory

North West

Stirling Manor Boutique Guest House

Services directory

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Accommodation guide

@Belurana River Manor Location: 2 Brug St, Upington Tel: +27 54 332 4323 E-mail: belurana@mweb.co.za Web: beluranaupington.com

The Kimberley Club New Holme Karoo Guest Farm Location: 20km North of Hanover & 50km South of Colesberg Tel: +27 (0)53 643-0193 E-mail: info@karoogariep.co.za Web: www.karoogariep.co.za

Tswalu Kalahari Private Game Reserve Location: 1Kalahari Desert, Near Kuruman Tel: +27 52 781 9331 E-mail: info@tswalu.com Web: www.tswalu.com

Daisy Country Lodge Location: 25 Blesjesfontein, Springbok Tel: +27 27 712 3335/7 E-mail: info@daisylodge.co.za Web: www.daisylodge.co.za

Kuilfontein Stable Cottages

Dundi Lodge

Location: Route N1, Colesberg Tel: +27 51 753 1364 E-mail: info@kuilfontein.co.za Web: www.colesbergtourism.co.za

Location: 4 Airport Boulevard, Rooipad, Kakamus Tel: +27 54 451 9200 E-mail: info@dundilodge.co.za Web: www.dundilodge.co.za

80

Protea Hotel Kimberley

Vergelegen Guest House

Location:The Kimberley Big Hole, Circular Rd, Kimberley Tel: +27 53 802 8200 E-mail: info@phkimberley.com Web: www.proteahotels.com/protea-hotel-kimberley

Location: On N14, 3km before Kakamas, Near Augrabies Falls Tel: +27 54 431 0976 E-mail: vergelegen@electronet.co.za Web: www.augrabiesfalls.co.za

81

Services Guide

Location: 35 Currey Street, CBD, Kimberley Tel: +27 53 832 4224 E-mail: Linda@kimberleyclub.co.za Web: www.kimberleyclub.co.za

Features

Location:15 Piet Retief St, Sutherland Tel: +27 23 571 1115 E-mail: bookings@skitterland.co.za Web: www.skitterland.co.za

Location: 3 Boschendal Avenue, Barkley West Tel: +27 83 235 1993 E-mail: info@mattanu.com Web: www.mattanu.com

Accommodation directory

Location: 7 Lodge Street, Belgravia, Kimberley Tel: +27 53 83 22 668 Email: kimjo@absamail.co.za Web: http://www.theestate.co.za

Skitterland Guest House

Mattanu Private Game Reserve

Services directory

Northern Cape

The Estate Private Hotel

in the know

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Location: 7 Bob Bouwer Crescent, Bayview, Mossel Bay Tel: +27 44 695 1846 E-mail: info@africanoceans.co.za Web: www.africanoceans.co.za

Location: Cnr Hill/Romney Rd, Greenpoint, Cape Town Tel: +27 21 439 4555 E-mail: info@romneypark.co.za Web: www.romneypark.co.za

Bushman’s Kloof Wilderness Reserve & Retreat Location: Pakhuis Pass Road, Clanwilliam Tel: +2727 482 8200 E-mail: lodge@bushmanskloof.co.za Web: www.bushmanskloof.co.za

Ivory Heights Boutique Guest House

Lodge on the Lake Location: 746 North St, Wilderness Tel: +2744 877 1097 E-mail: info@lodgeonthelake.co.za Web: www.accommodation-wilderness.com

Location: 17 Louis Botha Avenue, Somerset West Greater Cape Town Tel: +27 21 852 8333 E-mail: info@ivoryheights.co.za Web: www.ivoryheights.co.za

Bellavista Country Place Location: Stanford Tel: +27 82 901 76 50 E-mail: Bellavista@hermanus.co.za Web: www.bella.co.za

Sanbona Wildlife Reserve Location: Montagu, Breede River Valley Tel: +2741 509 3000 E-mail: reservations@sanbona.com Web: www.sanbona.com

Asara Wine Estate & Hotel Location: Polkadraai Rd, Stellenbosch Tel: +27 21 888 8000 E-mail: info@asara.co.za Web: www.asara.co.za

Steenberg Hotel Location: 10802 Steenberg Estate, Tokai Rd, Constantia Tel: +2721 713 2222 E-mail:info@steenberghotel.com Web: www.steenberghotel.com

82

Altes Landhaus Country House

The Robertson Small Hotel

Location: Oudtshoorn, Klein Karro Tel: +2744 272-6112 E-mail: altes.landhaus@pixie.co.za Web: www.alteslandhaus.co.za

Location: 58 Van Reenen St, Robertson Tel: +27 23 626 7200 E-mail: info@therobertsonsmallhotel.com Web: www.therobertsonsmallhotel.com

83

Regulars Features

Location: 180 Kloof Rd, Bantry Bay Tel: +2721 430 3200 E-mail: info@ellerman.co.za Web: www.ellerman.co.za

Accommodation guide

Romney Park Hotel

Services Guide

African Oceans Manor on the Beach

Accommodation directory

Western Cape

Ellerman House Hotel

Services directory

accommodation

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There are several domestic airlines in South Africa, including South African Airways, South African Express, Interlink, Airlink and British Airways. Low-cost carriers include: 1time, Kulula and Mango.

Bus

Greyhound (+27 83 915 9000), InterCape (+27 21 380 4400) and Translux (+27 861 589 282) are the three main bus services in South Africa. All flights and bus tickets can be booked via Computicket at www.computicket.com or by calling +27 83 915 8000.

Trains

For budget trips across the country, Shosholoza Meyl is the best service available. Book online at www.shosholozameyl.co.za and enquiries can be directed to +27 86 000 8888. If you decide to splurge, though, there are three outstanding options. The famous Blue Train (+27 12 334 8459), Rovos Rail (+27 12 315 8242) and Premier Classe (+27 86 000 8888) are luxurious liners with all the bells and whistles.

Cars

Most of the main car rental companies have outlets at the international airports and in major centres. In South Africa, we drive on the left side of the road. The general speed limits are 120 km/h on the freeways, 100 km/h on major roads outside built-up areas and 60 km/h in built-up areas. Foreign members of the Automobile Association (AA) can register as a temporary member in South Africa at any local AA branch. For more information, phone +27 83 843 2222.

+27 861 021 111

+27 21 380 3140

+27 11 230 1200

Europcar

+27 21 935 8600

+27 11 394 8831

Hertz Car Hire

+27 21 935 3000

+27 11 390 9700

Tempest Car Hire

+27 21 935 8650

+27 11 578 0160

04

in South Africa

USA +27 12 431 4000 Canada +27 12 422 3000 UK +27 12 421 7500 Germany +27 12 427 8900 Netherlands +27 12 425 4500 Japan +27 12 452 1500 China +27 12 342 4194 Australia +27 12 423 6000 New Zealand +27 12 435 9000

| www.southafrica.usembassy.gov | www.canada.co.za

| www.pretoria.diplo.de | www.dutchembassy.co.za | www.za.emb-japan.go.jp | www.chinese-embassy.org.za | www.australia.co.za | www.nzembassy.com

05Useful Numbers Police

10111

Ambulance/Fire

10177

Travel Clinic

+27 21 419 3172 (Cape Town) +27 11 647 3654 (Johannesburg)

84

Regulars

Foreign Embassies and Consuates Accommodation guide

Air

+27 21 934 0330

Budget Rent-a-Car

Travel Vaccine Helpline

+27 860 160 160

National Info & Safety Line

+27 83 123 2345

Airport Information (ACSA

+27 86 727 7888

Weatherlin

082 162

Time

1026

Enquiries Local numbers

1023 or 10118

Enquiries International no.

10903

Tourist Info

+27 83 123 6789

85

A Note for Smokers South Africa became one of the first countries in the world to ban smoking in public places in 2000 when it introduced its Tobacco Products Control Amendment Act. The Act prohibits smoking in restaurants, pubs, shopping centres and offices where there are no separate, enclosed smoking rooms.

 Smoking in partially enclosed public places such as covered patios, verandas, balconies, walkways and parking areas is also prohibited. Children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and purchasing cigarettes.

 There are stiff penalties associated with anti-smoking legislation in South Africa, including hefty fines for both the smoker and venue operator. Be aware that smoking is banned on all domestic flights in South Africa. Keep a look out for ‘no smoking’ signs and only smoke in designated smoking areas.

Services Guide

• Do not to walk alone at night. • Do not flaunt your possessions when you are out in public. • Only allow clearly uniformed guards and personnel to handle your possessions. • Be aware of what is happening around you. • If anything should happen do not hesitate to phone the police.

03Travel Options

Avis Car Rental

Accommodation directory

02Safety

JOHANNESBURG CENTRE

Services directory

S

ince most of the activities in South Africa happen outdoors, sunburn is a potential health hazard. Cover up and use sun screen lotion whenever you are outside. Malaria risk areas include Northern KZN and Zululand, the Northern Province and Mpumalanga. The risk of contraction in South Africa is minimal when the proper precautions are taken. These include taking malaria tablets, using insect repellent and mosquito coils, and wearing long sleeved clothing. Tap water in most areas is safe to drink, but be sure to double check with your hosts first. One of the biggest health risks in South Africa is HIV and Aids. If you plan to be sexually active during your stay in South Africa, be sure to take necessary precautions. Check out www.redribbon.co.za for more information. Visit www.brillianttan.co.za for a safer way to obtain that holiday tan.

CAPE TOWN CENTRE

in the know

01Healthsunburn is a potential health hazard

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