Ultratravel magazine Spring 2023

Page 18

PLANES, TRAINS AND AUTOMOBILES

PINBALLING AROUND IN SEARCH OF AUTHENTIC EXPERIENCES

PLUS: SHIPS OF JOY ON THE LINKS DRIVING CHANGES AND HOROLOGICAL HEAVEN

GO TO MOBILE VERSION

SPRING 2023
THE JOY OF DISCOVERY

OF UNRIVALLED EXPERIENCES

UNRIVALLED SPACE AT SEA™

The luxury of personal space is central to the promise of An Unrivalled Experience™ with Regent Seven Seas Cruises® It provides the extravagant freedom guests need to explore and relax to the fullest. As the pre-eminent luxury cruise line on the ocean, we pride ourselves in o ering some of the largest balconies and most spacious suites at sea. Our wide range of speciality restaurants, al fresco and in-suite dining options, exquisite lounges, bars and expansive spaces are perfect to rest and celebrate in, knowing there is never a queue or a crowd and that every detail is taken care of and every amenity is included.

TO LEARN MORE AND START YOUR JOURNEY, SCAN THE QR CODE | VISIT RSSC.COM/ULTRA-TRAVEL OR CONTACT YOUR TRAVEL ADVISOR

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Singapore • Kuala Lumpur • Penang • Malacca • Langkawi • Bangkok • Yangon • Nay Pyi Taw • Hanoi • Ho Chi Minh City • Phnom Penh • Siem Reap • Jakarta • Dhaka • Beijing Tianjin • Xiamen • Suzhou • Ningbo • Dalian • Sydney • Melbourne • Perth • Tokyo • London • Seattle • Vancouver • Whistler, British Columbia • Toronto • Nairobi The World of Pan Pacifi c Hotels Group | panpacifi c.com Authentically Singaporean, distinctively British. Sincerely Yours A luxurious haven in the city where you set your own pace. 80 Houndsditch, London, EC3A 7AB T: +44 (0) 20 7118 6888 enquiry.pplon@panpacific.com @panpacificlondon

13 • Editor’s Letter Checking into spring. By

THE JOY OF DISCOVERY

15 • Voyage Voyage

As Global Hotel Alliance members are keen to up their leisure trips in 2023, we highlight this year’s key travel trends. By

18 • Suite Inspiration

Tokyo, Sydney and Amalfi are the locations for three striking new hotels in GHA’s portfolio. By

IN THIS ISSUE

26 • Precious Things

The latest launches, fabulous fancies and best buys.

29 • Training Days

All aboard The Vietage for luxury rail travel in Thailand.

32 • Making a Splash

Whether floating in the air or on the ocean, seaplanes are the super-chic way to travel. By

22 • Material World

The rise of outerwear, from fashion and performance brands to the über-cutting-edge. By

38 • Cresting the Waves

Why it’s shaping up to be a stellar year for sensational new ships. By Gary

SPRING 2023

COVER PHOTO: VICEROY LOS CABOS, BAJA, MEXICO

EDITOR-IN-CHIEF

Farhad Heydari

Farhad@ultratravel.com

@MrFarhadHeydari

SENIOR EDITOR

Vicki Reeve

CHAIRMAN

Nick Perry

Nick@ultratravel.com

@MrNickPerry

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Andrew Cowan

CONTRIBUTORS

47 • Time Trials

Extreme outdoor pursuits require wristwatches with adventure-grade specs.

54 • The Call of Caledonia

Classic courses, new tracks and first-rate hospitality… Scotland, the home of golf, has never been more alluring than it is now.

62 • Electric Dream

Plug and play the new Polestar way: the marque’s newest model is a standout 'pure' SUV

Gary Buchanan, Tom Daniels, FH Darafshian, Chris Hall, Will Hersey, Mark Jones, John Perney, Nigel Tisdall

@Ultratravel ultratravel.com

effort is made to ensure the accuracy

information

in

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any errors or omissions nor for any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork submitted. The information contained in this publication is correct at the time of going to press. Views expressed are not necessarily those of the publisher or UHC Cayman Holdings Limited. Ultratravel is a registered trademark.

ULTRATRAVEL 11 SPRING 2023
PGP Media Limited on behalf of UHC Cayman Holdings Limited, Northside House, Mount Pleasant,
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22 47 15

YOUR DAY, elevated.

CORINTHIA.COM

The modern odyssey

I don’t know about you, but there is a creative fission that occurs whenever I travel: a kinetic burst that imbues me with the excitement and anticipation of a journey (and the forthcoming destination), but also the rudimentary wonder that, whether by planes, trains or automobiles, we are able to cover vast distances.

For me, this sensation began as an unaccompanied minor and hasn’t abated since. The very idea of movement by a conveyance not under our own influence engenders an opportunity for wide-eyed reflection and, nowadays, a sip of something or another, a trusted notepad to jot down an idea or two, all as we go in search of new opportunities and experiences.

Having never been accused of being a languid or indolent soul, I was a late convert

to small-ship cruising and am now an evangelist, preaching about its pulchritudes with a well-practised sermon. For all its detractors, cruising does unlock even the farthest reaches of our planet, as I recently discovered in Antarctica (more on that in the next edition).

In this issue of , we round up all the news from the open seas, take to the rails, hit the open road and go aloft in that wanderlust-inspiring contraption called a seaplane.

We also answer the Call of Caledonia (page 54), find Suite Inspiration (page 18) in properties near and far and, as no journey – regardless of locale – is complete without an appropriate timepiece, we shortlist the latest and greatest, wherever your next adventure might be.

SPRING 2023
The very idea of movement by a conveyance not under our own influence engenders an opportunity for wide-eyed reflection
IN BUOYANT MOOD Siam Seaplane offers both scenic and charter flights
13 EDITOR’S LETTER
Farhad Heydari EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Ultratravel
ULTRATRAVEL
PHOTO: PAUL SEYMOUR SIAM SEAPLANE

PRIVATE-ISLAND

VOYAGE VOYAGE

A banner year for travel is well and truly under way. John Perney on the notable trends for 2023, according to Global Hotel Alliance

ALondon family of four’s excitement grows by the day as their 10-day spring sojourn to Japan draws closer. Two years after the pandemic’s peak, the family is itching to continent-hop; to become immersed in the tastes and treasures of Tokyo and to unearth the imperial charms of Kyoto – a day trip to the shrines and temples of the Nikko Unesco World Heritage Site notwithstanding.

They aren’t alone. Across the world and around the planet, the appetite to travel has never been keener, a point underscored by the results of the latest survey of Global Hotel Alliance Discovery loyalty programme members.

“Our survey paints a very positive picture for leisure travel in 2023, with our members signalling an overwhelming desire to globetrot, try new experiences and connect with family and friends, building on the momentum of this past year,” says GHA executive vice president Kristi Gole.

Japan is the preferred country to visit in 2023, according to GHA’s survey. After a miserable 2021 (remember those postponed Olympics with no spectators?), it is dealing with a tourism deluge. The number of foreigners forecast to visit in 2023 is 21.1 million, a 450% increase over last year. But while our London-based family will travel across many time zones to the Land of the Rising Sun, most GHA members plan to travel mostly within their own regions.

When it comes to hotel and accommodation choices, location, price and

15
ULTRATRAVEL
SPRING 2023
PARADISE Outrigger Castaway Island, Fiji BLOSSOMING BEAUTY Matsuyama-jō, a 17th-century castle in Shikoku, Japan – the number-one country to visit in 2023

loyalty programme emerged from the survey as the top three factors this year. Room upgrades, discounts and other perks – all of which are core benefits of GHA Discovery – were cited by members as crucial to enriching their overall hotel experience.

“The results are particularly encouraging against a backdrop of global economic uncertainty,” says Gole. “Members are telling us that value for money and loyalty programme benefits are now most influencing their hotel booking decisions.”

Prior to arrival, however, the actual act of travelling ranks especially high in 2023. Discovery members, of which there are some 22 million, are longing for leisure escapes, with some planning as many as six trips this year. Asia emerged as the vacation spot of choice for those based in Australia and the UK. The US, Oceania and Thailand were also popular choices, and regional travel was a regular survey response as well.

Tellingly, the opportunity to “see and experience new things” is a primary motivator, as is the chance to embark on those ‘never before’ journeys with family and friends, oftentimes to conurbations, though some indicated their intention to visit – and relax – at beach locales.

And once that destination is reached, whether travellers are pounding the pavements or getting sand between their toes, they are increasingly taking comfort knowing that their Discovery perks are not only following

SPRING 2023 16 ULTRATRAVEL ARCH EXPRESSIONS Outrigger Mauritius Beach Resort in the Bel Ombre nature reserve
Room upgrades, discounts and other perks –all of which are core benefits of GHA Discovery – were cited by members as crucial to enriching their overall hotel experience

along but accumulating for use in a future getaway. “The reimagination of GHA Discovery, launched a year ago, becomes even more relevant,” Gole says, “with our new digital rewards currency, Discovery Dollars, adding more value to each stay.”

And, in one more survey highlight, respondents across all regions increasingly prefer GHA’s booking platform to research accommodations for their next leisure or business journey, even more than online travel agents or hotel brand websites. The loyalty programme comes a close second as the preferred way to book, after a hotel’s direct website.

As Gole suggests, perhaps this comes as no surprise. “This not only reflects the user-friendliness of the GHA Discovery mobile app and website,” she says, “but GHA’s extraordinary collection of 40-plus independent hotel brands with more than 800 properties in 100 countries across the globe, all in one stop.”

For more information or to join the programme for free, visit ghadiscovery.com or download the GHA DISCOVERY mobile app.

ULTRATRAVEL 17 SPRING 2023 NESTING TABLES
Nido restaurant at Viceroy Los Cabos in Baja, Mexico BORN FREE Left: Elewana Elsa's Kopje Meru in Kenya RETAIL THERAPY Kempinski Hotel Mall of the Emirates, Dubai

SUITE INSPIRATION

Checking into a trio of notable GHA newbies.

As if the Japanese capital wasn’t an already alluring-enough destination in its own right, it’s now undeniably more so thanks to the addition of Bellustar Tokyo (bellustartokyo.com): an exclusive haven of 97 rooms on the uppermost 39th to 47th floors of the Tokyu Kabukicho Tower, Shinjuku’s new landmark skyscraper complex by architectural firm Kume Sekkei, designer of the Yayoi Kusama Museum. A Pan Pacific Hotel, its pièce de résistance will be an expansive, multifaceted, three-storey-high “sky dining” experience on the 45th floor, the serene “sky spa” overlooking the Tokyo cityscape on the topmost 47th level notwithstanding. Down under, and closer to terra firma, the Capella Sydney (capellahotels.com) has debuted in the city’s historic Department of Education building in what is now known as the Sandstone Precinct following a seven-year, £170m renovation. The listed Edwardian-Baroque edifice is home to 192 rooms and suites and anchored by three ground-level food and beverage outlets: Aperture, Brasserie 1930 and McRae Bar. Signalling Capella’s ongoing commitment to culture and experience, art is omnipresent for guests to enjoy, not to mention the 20-metre heated indoor pool which forms the centrepiece of the Auriga Spa on the sixth floor. Meanwhile, the former 13th-century Capuchin friars’ convent on Italy’s Amalfi coast, itself perched on a clifftop 80 metres above sea level – with spectacular views of the Mediterranean Coast – has been lovingly restored to its original glory and unveiled as the Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel (anantara.com). The second Anantara property in Italy, after the recent addition of Anantara Palazzo Naiadi Rome Hotel, features 52 rooms and suites with tiled flooring, vaulted ceilings and period details juxtaposed with rich textiles, sculptural furniture and locally sourced contemporary artworks, all of which will play a supporting role to the nonpareil littoral setting.

Bellustar Tokyo is a haven on the uppermost floors of the new Tokyu Kabukicho Tower

SPRING 2023 18 ULTRATRAVEL
TOP TUCKER Brent Savage and Nick Hildebrandt of Brasserie 1930 at Capella Sydney LOOK AND LEARN Sydney’s Department of Education is reborn as Capella Sydney

AN ICON REVISITED

Situated on the historic V&A Waterfront in Cape Town, South Africa, each of the 329 rooms at The Table Bay (suninternational.com) overlook the Atlantic Ocean, either across the bay to Robben Island or over the harbour and city to Table Mountain. This makes the five-star property, with its quintet of unimpeachable dining venues, an unparalleled choice for those wishing to visit the Mother City.

ULTRATRAVEL 19 SPRING 2023
HIGH VAULTAGE The Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel, housed in a 13thcentury Italian edifice TALL STOREY Left: a Studio Premier room at the Bellustar Tokyo, a Pan Pacific Hotel, with sweeping cityscape view SPECIAL ACCESS The Table Bay hotel in Cape Town
e best
to connect is simply to disconnect. cenizaro.com Cenizaro Hotels & Resorts Bintan | Maldives | Marrakech | Mauritius | Tunis | Zanzibar FOREVER YOURS
way

MATERIAL WORLD

The outerwear market has boomed in recent years, driven not just by people becoming more active, but a change in working lifestyles that prize gilets and fleeces over suits and ties.

There are outdoor brands, and there are outdoor fashion brands. One is about performance. The other is about looking good. But there is one other brand that’s an outlier to both those ideas. Vollebak (vollebak.com), a start-up based in London, is an outdoor brand that makes modern-looking, high-performance clothes for the outdoors. But every one of its garments also comes with a story. A really good story. Vollebak sits at the cutting edge of material science, using technology, wit and imagination to make clothes no one ever thought possible – largely because no one has ever had its ideas. Take its Apocalypse Jacket. Built with a material invented for Nasa’s Apollo Programme, it comes with an integrated system of 23 hidden pockets and is resistant to black lava, flash fires and chemical erosion. Or its Titan Pants, made from the same extreme-strength, parachute material used to land probes on Titan and Mars. Or its 100 Year Hoodie, a fireproof, windproof and water-repellant hoodie that’s designed to outlive you. “We use science and technology to make the future of clothing happen faster,” says the company’s mission statement. Vollebak is in a category of one.

SPRING 2023 TECHNOFILES
WHERE THE MAGIC HAPPENS
Above: Vollebak’s London headquarters THE LAST OF US
22
Left: Vollebak’s Apocalypse jacket is resistant to black lava, flash fires and chemical erosion

LIFE IN MARS

ULTRATRAVEL
Left: the Mars jacket (complete with vomit pocket) and trousers are made of 100% ballistic nylon PEAK TWIN Below: brothers Nick and Steve Tidball are the founders of Vollebak TOUGH LOVE Vollebak’s 100 Year Hoodie repels rain, wind, snow and fire
23 SPRING 2023
Vollebak sits at the cutting edge of material science, using technology, wit and imagination to make clothes no one ever thought possible – largely because no one has ever had its ideas
WWW.THESETCOLLECTION.COM | @THESETCOLLECTIONOFFICIAL

Outdoor brands

The best outdoor brands all sit at the intersection of quality, durability and sustainability. Up there with the best is NorrØna (norrona.com) a Norwegian brand that has been making all-weather premium jackets, tops, T-shirts and trousers to suit the inclement local terrain since 1929. While its provenance only dates to 1975, Klättermusen (klattermusen.com) has excelled at not only making refined Scandinavian mountaineering equipment but also clothing collections, including its lightwear range, which caters to the needs of high-energy activities such as fast trekking, trail running, biking, climbing and bouldering. Arc’teryx (arcteryx. com), meanwhile, has been a name that professional climbers have known about for decades. But lately it’s found a broader audience thanks to its incredibly well-made ripstop hooded jackets, puffers and Gore-Tex shells. One outdoor brand that made global headlines last year was Patagonia (patagonia. com), after its maverick founder ‘gave away’ his own company to fight the climate crisis. With all future profits going towards saving the planet, its range of unimprovable and largely recycled fleece jackets is great at keeping out the wind – and will give you a warm feeling inside, too. When it comes to the world’s most recognised name in puffers and parkas Canada Goose (canadagoose.com) reigns supreme. The company knows that on the mountains and the slopes every extra gram of weight has to count, so its versatile and lightweight clothes are designed to move with you. Which is why you see its products worn by researchers and scientists working in remote, Arctic regions. It also supplies parkas to the United States Antarctic Program.

GET DOWN

With technical down insulation, the Arc’teryx Cerium hoodie has a high warmth-to-weight ratio

RAINING CHAMPION

Klättermusen’s waterproof Asynja Levitend Cutan rain jacket is light and packable

Fashion brands

Just because you’ve got a phenomenally well-made, technically brilliant piece of kit that’s waterproof to 5,000mm and built to see you up the north face of your nearest mountain, it doesn’t mean that’s where you have to wear it. The growth of technical clothing as everyday wear has been a big boom area for the industry; witness the success of Moncler (moncler.com), which now makes superdesirable collaborations with designers such as JW Anderson and Craig Green, very few of which have endured anything more gruelling than a trip jetting across the Atlantic. And Wander (andwander.com) is a Japanese outdoor-wear brand that excels in minimalist mountaineering garments using Polartec and PrimaLoft insulation, but that are designed to look as good in the city or on the golf course. You probably wouldn’t be allowed anywhere near St Andrews Old Course wearing Acronym (acrnm.com), the ‘techwear’ brand cofounded by Errolson Hugh – who also models the kit online – but that doesn’t mean it’s not worth having a look at. Sitting somewhere between avant-garde design and functionality, this is the place to come for jackets with removable storm hoods, bi-lateral pocket bags and ‘jacket slings’, straps that allow you to carry your jacket round your body. More down to earth is Goldwin (goldwin-global. com). Founded in 1951 in Japan, this sporting-goods brand is particularly noted for its skiwear, and its light jackets and half-fleeces are second to none.

ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023
25 TECHNOFILES
SCANDI COOL Norwegian brand NorrØna’s garb shrugs off harsh weather

FACE VALUE

Help protect your skin with Dr Jart+ Ceramidin Ectoin-Infused Cream: an ultra-rich, highly concentrated moisturiser with five ceramides and Ectoin, which delivers extreme moisture and intensive barrier strengthening to dry, dry skin. drjart.co.uk

PRECIOUS THINGS

A tip sheet of must-haves, for him and her, as compiled by Ultratravel editors

TECH SAVVY

The ATH-M20xBTWH over-ear headphones by Audio-Technica deliver high-quality audio and an incredible listening experience with full-range, high-fidelity audio. audio-technica.com

DRAM ROLL

Imagined within the immersive world of acclaimed graphic artist Frank Quitely and created in collaboration with Master Blender Ron Welsh, Bowmore The Changeling is a 22-year-old single malt worthy of any bar. bowmore.com

CRYSTAL CLEAR

Infused with the highest grade of detoxifying Japanese charcoal to cleanse pores deeply and remove excess oil, Clinique Take The Day Off Charcoal Cleansing Balm melts away all traces of makeup and oil without stripping the skin, while charcoal works its detoxifying magic. clinique.co.uk

ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023
26

A WRITE OF PASSAGE

To commemorate The Year of The Rabbit, Caran d’Ache has released a Limited-Edition Haute Ecriture collection of writing instruments, employing a proprietary technique of Chinese hand lacquering passed down by great masters of East Asia, which takes 12 days to complete.  carandache.com

EXTREME HOROLOGY

It took three years to develop, weighs just 36 grams – including the strap – and was conceived with the help of six professional athletes, including two legends of motorsport – Aurora Straus and Margot Laffite – as well as triple-Olympic-gold medallist skier and snowboarder Ester Ledecká, the top-ranked golfer Nelly Korda, and two stars of athletics, Yuliya Levchenko and Nafi Thiam. The result is the Richard Mille RM 07-04: a collection of six timepieces that together comprise the ultimate women’s sports-watch assemblage. No questions asked. richardmille.com

SPRING 2023
GOOD LUXE
27 ULTRATRAVEL

Worldwide aircraft sales at the speed of life

In a complex marketplace, you need an aviation partner you can trust. More than brokers, we are global advisors, offering unmatched international reach and unrivalled local knowledge. Backed by industry-leading intelligence and expertise and an unstoppable attitude, our entire business is set up to find exactly the right buyer for your current aircraft, or exactly the right jet when it’s time to upgrade. No one does it like us. No one’s more in sync with the rhythm of your needs.

info@jetcraft.com | +1 919 941 8400 | jetcraft.com

More makes, more models, more choice.

Use the QR Code or visit jetcraft.com/inventory to view our extensive list of available aircraft.

TRAINING DAYS

Inspired by Vietnam’s beauty and the luxurious rail travel of the past, a journey on The Vietage train is not to be missed. Mark Jones is on board

It’s at least a five-hour drive between Hôi An in central Vietnam to Quy Nhon further south. And that’s a long and hard five hours. Or you take the Saigon Express. Correction: you hop on a carriage that is hitched to the back of the Saigon Express

Opt for the latter, and you’ll not only be travelling alongside the shores of the South China Sea but you’ll be experiencing one of the most novel and luxurious journeys in all of South East Asia.

It’s called The Vietage (thevietagetrain.com), and it’s a service dreamed up by Anantara in partnership with Vietnam railways to link its two properties.

Unesco-listed Hôi An is justly famous for its waterways and historic streets. And while Quy Nhon doesn’t have much to boast about, the all-villa Anantara resort, situated along a private stretch of beach and surrounded by mountains on three sides, is adding lustre to the region.

The journey starts at Da Nang Station. If the station is Soviet-inspired, the carriage is much more Agatha Christie than Joseph Stalin. Window booths sit behind rattan screens. There is a curved marble bar for socialising before your three-course meal and – not something you get in Murder on the Orient Express – a massage room if the stress gets too much.

Further ameliorating the comforting nature of the trip are the soothing views, a succession of bright green paddy fields and small, mildewed villages which you encounter along the way as you sip your tea.

After a day exploring the Cham heritage around Quy Nhon, or enjoying the quiet beach, you take the late-night train back. When full, there are only 12 guests. We were lucky: we had the train, and Vietnam, to ourselves.

ALL ABOARD
BON VOYAGE Left: The Vietage’s sit-up, marble-topped bar ON TRACK TO LUXE This picture: the train travels through the calming countryside of central Vietnam
SPRING 2023 29 ULTRATRAVEL
Below: drinks are served at The Vietage bar

THE TABLE BAY HOTEL

Luxury and a warm African welcome await

“Our guests tell us that it is the small gestures, the little things we do di erently, and the warmth of our sta that define their experience of staying with us. We create special moments that will become treasured memories. We treat our guests like family, and this is what sets us apart and why they return.”

Experience Cape Town with a stay at the best address in the city, The Table Bay hotel. Style, elegance and luxury all converge at this Sun International five-star property on the water’s edge in South Africa’s oldest working harbour, the vibrant V&A Waterfront.

Since former president Nelson Mandela o cially opened its doors in 1997, this magnificent property has embraced international service standards with a defining local twist.

Surrounded by views of mountains, sea and city, the hotel’s 329 elegantly furnished rooms, including two

presidential suites, o er panoramic views of the V&A Waterfront and Table Mountain on one side, and the ocean and Robben Island on the other.

With easy and convenient access to Cape Town’s central business district and an array of tourist attractions across the city and the peninsula, including wine tastings at internationally-acclaimed estates, and adventure tourism such as helicopter flips or mountain biking, business travellers and tourists will both have their needs met.

ACTIVITIES

Visitors have a wide selection of activities to choose from when deciding what to see or do while in the Mother City. The V&A Waterfront has a diverse o ering, from unique artisanal goods to international brands, and guarantees something for everyone visiting Cape Town. For a picturesque view of life under the sea and of the diverse marine life of the Indian and Atlantic Oceans, visit the nearby Two Oceans Aquarium. Within walking distance is the internationally acclaimed Zeitz Museum of Contemporary Art Africa (MOCAA), or you can simply relax on a sunset cruise with a bottle of bubbly, at the hotel pool deck or pamper yourself with a spa treatment at the hotel’s in-house Camelot spa.

DINING

Tuck into a feast of breakfast treats to suit all tastes, from seasonal fruits to justbaked pastries and breads. Not forgetting the traditional serving of eggs, the possibilities are endless and the choice all yours. Indulge in the decadent High Teas served in The Lounge or savour the finest drinks, expertly crafted by our skilled bartenders in the nautically themed Union Bar.

SIBA THE RESTAURANT

Make sure to visit SIBA The Restaurant for an exciting evening of experiential dining. An authentic celebration of South African flavours served with a contemporary flair, enjoy the best of the Cape Town food culture curated through the eyes of internationallyrenowned celebrity chef, Siba Mtongana.

Whether it is for business or leisure travel, The Table Bay is the ideal place from which to wake up and start your day.

The Table Bay is situated at the southern tip of Africa where the Indian and Atlantic Oceans meet in an area of incredible diversity of marine life. Here we have the opportunity to connect our visitors to the ocean and proudly contribute to the conservation and collaboration of animal welfare on our shores. Sun International supports a sustainability vision to protect our environment for the future.

This summer, visitors to Thailand will have an exciting new way to fly to its celebrated beaches and tropical islands. Operating from bases in Bangkok and Phuket, Siam Seaplane will offer scenic and charter flights aboard an eight-passenger Cessna Grand Caravan EX with plush white-leather seats and ample legroom. With a flying range of up to 90 minutes, guests will be able to escape with ease to remote luxury resorts in the Gulf of Thailand and Andaman Sea, kicking back on tranquil Koh Kood and exploring renowned dive sites such as Koh Lipe in the Tarutao Marine Park. It’s a bold initiative that chimes with our post-pandemic desire for travel that is safe, private, sustainable and experientially rich. The only infrastructure a seaplane needs is water and its environmental impact is minimal, with all-electric versions currently in development. Seaplanes are also tremendous fun with their private terminal departure and ability to fly low and spot whales and dolphins. Having the option also to land on a runway or beside a dock, their flexibility returns us to a golden age of carefree air travel when you can fly where you fancy with the utmost splash and dash (siamseaplane.com)

MALDIVES MAGIC

With 57 De Havilland Twin Otters, Trans Maldivian Airways operates the largest seaplane fleet in the world. Premium travellers can use the VIP Coral Lounge at the Noovilu Seaplane Terminal in Malé before taking a dreamy flight to their chosen atoll cruising over jewel-like islands for 20 to 60 minutes (transmaldivian.com)

THAI TREAT Phang Nga is a 90-minute flight from Bangkok with Siam Seaplane
ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023 32
PLANE SAILING Seaplane transfers are standard at Niyama Private Islands in the Maldives

MAKING A SPLASH

Glamorous, versatile and low-impact, seaplanes are the stylish way to go, says

DEPT OF TRANSPORT
ULTRATRAVEL 33 SPRING 2023

WINE AND WINGS

Vineyard visits by seaplane are a fun way to pair a scenic flight with tutored tastings in the acclaimed wineries of Margaret River, Western Australia. Departing from the Perth waterfront in a 12-passenger Cessna 208 Caravan Amphibian, guests aboard Swan River Seaplanes enjoy a low-level, 45-minute flight south to Busselton Jetty to visit two estates and enjoy a lunch with companion wines (swanriverseaplanes.com.au)

TOUR QUEBEC BY AIR

Seaplanes provide an exhilarating way to admire the lakes and forests of eastern Canada, particularly during the blazing colours of autumn. Entrée Destinations offers a nine-day private tour from Montreal to Quebec that flies into luxury lodges beside Lac Sacacomie and the prestigious La Seigneurie du Triton estate with time for hiking, kayaking and fly-fishing (entreedestinations.com)

SCENIC SCOTLAND

Currently celebrating its 20th anniversary, Loch Lomond Seaplanes offers scenic flights over the Scottish Highlands from its base near Balloch, 16 miles northwest of Glasgow. The 10-seater Cessna 208 Caravans fly up to 100 miles, circling west over Loch Lomond and the majestic landscape of the Trossachs National Park, with day trips to the Isle of Jura available from March to October (lochlomondseaplanes.com)

EXPLORE PATAGONIA

Rodrigo Noriega is an expert pilot whose AeroAlerce Flying Charters uses an amphibious Cessna 206 to take clients into the wilds of Chilean Patagonia. Departing from Puerto Montt, these adventurous trips fly over pristine forests, fjords and volcanoes with the option to fish, hike and camp overnight in the Corcovado National Park (aeroalerce.com)

BLISS IN THE BAHAMAS

Launched in 2021, Nassau-based COCO Bahama Seaplanes is the first year-round seaplane charter service to operate in The Bahamas in more than half a century. Its eightpassenger Cessna C208 Caravan comes brightly painted with hummingbirds and a cheeky ‘Love is in the Air’ slogan, and provides a brilliant way to whizz off to ritzy beach escapes in Harbour Island, Eleuthera and the Exumas ( flycocobahama.com)

AIR SPACE
Below: the stylish interiors of Siam Seaplane’s Cessna Grand Caravan EX TOES IN THE SAND A beach take-off in The Bahamas SCOT FREE A Loch Lomond Seaplane in action
Launched in 2021, COCO Bahama
Seaplanes is the first year-round seaplane charter service to operate in The Bahamas in more than half a century
DEPT OF TRANSPORT
AUSSIE ACTION Left: soar above Perth with Swan River Seaplanes
ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023 34
PHOTO: NIGEL TISDALL

CASTAWAY ISLAND FIJI TAKES GREAT CARE IN ITS STEWARDSHIP

A founding member of MES Fiji (Mamanuca Environment Society) and a leading advocate of environmental sustainability in tourism development, Castaway’s collective actions include coral planting, beach and underwater clean-up, fish house making and coastal tree planting, in addition to back-of-house goals such as reducing energy, water and waste while working alongside like-minded local non-profit organizations.

HAWAI‘I FIJI MAURITIUS THAILAND MALDIVES I Outrigger.com
ULTRATRAVEL 38 SPRING 2023 EXPEDITIONARY FORCE Seabourn Pursuit is built to PC6 Polar Class standards

CRESTING THE WAVES

Cruising has morphed into a world where trappings of luxury, opulent décor and on-trend amenities are de rigueur. Today’s new kids on the block have declared a pact with the extraordinary and are on course to sail serenely into a luxurious realm.

In August Seabourn (seabourn.com) is launching the latest volley in the relentless quest to conceive the quintessential expedition yacht. Inaugural voyages aboard the 264-guest Seabourn Pursuit to the Mediterranean, Amazon and Antarctica are already piquing the interest of those for whom five stars are too squalid. Masterfully designed from bow to stern by Adam D Tihany, there’s not a scintilla of bad taste. And from toques to tables, impeccable cuisine is writ large, including menus by Michelin-starred chef Thomas Keller. Charting sea routes less travelled, in 2024 the compass will be set towards the Kimberley in Western Australia, Papua New Guinea and Melanesia. Custom-built to PC6 Polar Class standards and with an expert expedition team of 26, the ship has 24 Zodiacs and two custom-built submarines.

ULTRATRAVEL 39 SPRING 2023 SUPERLATIVE SAILING
Gary Buchanan reveals the wunder cruise ships taking a bow in 2023

Sun-sational getaways

Blissful beach escape? Southern Thailand’s the place to be. Find your place in the sun with chic Avani stays in Koh Samui, Phuket, Koh Lanta and Khao Lak. Sail Andaman seas and beach-hop til you drop. Spoil yourself with spa time. Dig into gourmet food and uncover delicious local eats. Thailand will bring the sun, sea and sand – Avani will do the rest.

Hotels & Resorts Africa • Asia-Pacific • Europe • Middle East AVANIHOTELS.COM
Avani Chaweng Samui Hotel & Beach Club Avani+ Koh Lanta Krabi Resort Avani+ Khao Lak Resort

Equally splurge-worthy, the 228-guest dreamboat Scenic Eclipse II (scenic.co.uk) comes with a submarine and helicopter. Building on the success of the much-lauded Scenic Eclipse, this virtually identical, eye-catching sibling has been created for artisans of leisure as well as devotees of exploration. Commencing on 12 April, there will be a series of inaugural sailings exploring the Mediterranean prior to the christening by former Nasa astronaut Dr Kathy Sullivan in June. The sleek discovery yacht then sets a course north to the High Arctic, before heading south to the White Continent of Antarctica, where guests can follow in the footsteps of the world’s greatest pioneers.

Also at the confluence of cutting-edge design and eco-friendly technology, the svelte Emerald Sakara (emeraldcruises.com) is debonair inside and out. The marbleaccented Amici Bar & Lounge has an art moderne verve; there’s similar finesse in the staterooms and suites, as well as at La Cucina restaurant and the infinity-style Aqua Pool and Elements Spa. When this 100-guest superyacht is anchored off port, a floating marina platform, complete with paddleboards and SEABOBs, is lowered. Expertly curated EmeraldPLUS and EmeraldACTIVE shore tours such as hiking and cycling are included. Following the launch in August, its itineraries will feature Croatia’s Dalmatian Riviera and the Eastern Mediterranean, before island hopping in the West Indies.

Another hotly anticipated haven of the seas that’s been conceived with style junkies in mind will be christened in December. The 3,260-passenger Celebrity Ascent (celebritycruises.com) is the latest smoking-hot behemoth to attest that maritime architectural zeal knows no bounds. An undoubted highlight will be Le Voyage, a restaurant created by venerated Lyonnais chef Daniel Boulud, the company’s global culinary ambassador. Sybarites occupying suites sign up for the Kelly Hoppen-designed Retreat, a three-deck-high resort-within-a-resort enclave that consists of a private pool, sun terrace and bar, a lounge and Luminae gourmet restaurant. For novel sea views, guests climb aboard the Magic Carpet, which is raised and lowered 13 decks from water’s edge to rooftop garden and Sunset Bar.

Ascending to a seaborne firmament of luxe will be the

ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023 41 SUPERLATIVE SAILING
ALMOST FAMOUS Right: currently under construction, Celebrity Ascent is on course to be christened in December INTO THE BLUE The superyacht Emerald Sakara, home to just 100 passengers
The3,260-passengerCelebrityAscent isthelatesttoattestthatmaritime architecturalzealknowsnobounds
HIGH FLYER Left: the Scenic Eclipse II helicopter flies above the discovery yacht’s Sky Deck and Vitality Pool

1,200-guest Vista from Oceania Cruises (oceaniacruises. com), which debuts in May. This much-anticipated trailblazer has an arsenal of epicurean options, each reflecting that rare triumph when décor, service, ambience, superb ingredients and imaginative preparation come together. Options range from the imposing Grand Dining Room to Ember, which specialises in American classics, and on to Aquamar Kitchen, where the focus is on lighter cuisine and superfoods. Inspired by organic elements of land and sea, a crystal-encrusted Grand Staircase in the Atrium leads on to staterooms and suites which have the vibe of à la mode hotel rooms.

Trendsetting is one commodity that won’t be in short supply aboard Explora I (explorajourneys.com) Enjoying the benefit of starting with a blank canvas, the creators of this new cruise conceit have come up with a compelling design. Representing the future of luxury travel at sea, each of the six 922-guest vessels will reflect a sleek, cool mindset. The oceanfront suites, penthouses and residences all have private terraces and a surfeit of panache. Nine distinct gustatory experiences include: French-inspired Fil Rouge; the Marble & Co Grill, as well as Med Yacht Club, which specialises in plates to share. There are three outdoor swimming pools and 64 private cabanas, while an indoor pool with a retractable glass roof is adjacent to a vast spa and fitness studios.

Another relatively new entrant on the scene is also swerving clichés associated with traditional, mass-market ships. Virgin Voyages (virginvoyages.com) is launching not one but two new 2,700-passenger ships this year. Designed specifically for the Gen X crowd, Resilient Lady and Brilliant Lady are the third and fourth ships in Richard Branson’s armada of adults-only vessels which sail against the tide of established norms. Passengers are referred to as ‘Sailors’, there’s no dress code, while revue shows, cheesy cabarets and tribute acts have traded places with immersive theatre, a revved-up nightclub and wild pool parties. Multiple speciality dining venues include Razzle Dazzle, where a brunch show features the ship’s resident drag queens.

Somewhat less raucous, the 192-guest SH Diana is the latest entrant onto the cruising scene from Swan Hellenic (swanhellenic.com), the Brit-popular company which is a

HELLO SAILORS! Virgin Voyages’ adults-only 2,700-guest Resilient Lady is aimed at Gen X passengers
ON THE HORIZON Right:
Cruises’
in May SEA FOOD Inset:
SUPERLATIVE SAILING ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023 42
The latest ships in Richard Branson’s armada of adults-only vessels sail against the tide of established norms
a lounge/ bar area on Oceania
Vista, which debuts
Polo Grill, a smart steakhouse on board Vista
With two Discovery Yachts, venture further than ever before. Experience the great white wonders of Antarctica with Scenic Eclipse II on our 16 Day Beyond the Antarctic Circle Expedition voyage, and reach the latitude 66°33’ South, where few have explored. Join the expert Discovery Team and be amazed as you see penguins sliding down an iceberg, or humpback whales cruising peacefully by your Zodiac. With Scenic, it’s 6-star, truly all-inclusive ultra-luxury in a class of its own. Save up to £2,000pp* plus Free Business Class Flights# and Private Door-to-Door Transfers~ Call 0808 304 1977 | visit sceniceclipse.com *Super Earlybird offer promoting savings of up to £2,000pp is based on a Spa Suite Category on Beyond the Antarctic Circle departing 7th January 2024. #Free Business Class fl ights are strictly limited, subject to availability and up to the value of £4,500pp. Full credit amount is based on a Spa Suite Category on Beyond the Antarctic Circle departing on 7th January 2024. Business class credit value varies by itinerary and suite category. If Business Class fl ight cost exceeds the Credit amount, surcharge is to be paid by the guest. Super EarlyBird sales condition requires bookings to be paid in full at 12 months prior to departure, or at time of booking if departure is within 12 months. Private Door-to-Door transfers are complimentary within a 75 mile radius on all voyages and are subject to availability. For guests who live outside of this 75 mile radius, an additional supplement of £2.00 per mile will be charged thereafter, UK mainland only. We reserve the right to withdraw offers at any time. For full terms and conditions please visit sceniceclispe.com. E&OE It’s more than an Ocean Voyage... Drake Passage Beagle Channel Antarctic Peninsula Antarctic Circle Lemaire Channel Weddell Sea Port Lockroy South Orkney Islands Ushuaia South Shetland Islands Buenos Aires Argentina 1 11 1 Beyond the Antarctic Circle 16 Days Buenos Aires > Buenos Aires Day 1 UK > Buenos Aires Day 2 Buenos Aires Day 3 Buenos Aires > Ushuaia Day 4-5 At sea Day 6-8 Beyond Antarctic Circle Day 9-11 Antarctica Day 12-13 At sea Day 14 Ushuaia > Buenos Aires Day 15 Buenos Aires > UK Day 16 Arrive UK From £16,980 per person† W O R LDCRU SEAWA R D S 20 22 World's Best Cruise Ship for Dining

infinity pool

THE BIG SLEEP

Below: a Junior Crystal Penthouse Suite bedroom on Crystal Serenity

leading exponent of cultural discovery cruising. Set for a christening ceremony in May, this largest ship in its fleet of three vessels will sail the Mediterranean before heading to portsintheRedSeaandEastAfrica.

Acrossthesevenseas,Regent(rssc.com)shipsshimmer with élan. Such refinement will be on display when the eagerly anticipated, and appropriately named, Seven Seas Grandeur is revealed in November. Set to offer supremely high levels of service and quality, this 750-guest paragon will be super-glam. Anchoring the ship’s new art collection, a Fabergé egg, titled Journey in Jewels, will become the first to reside permanently at sea. While the Regent Suite is off the charts in unbridled hedonism, all other suites are designed with sublime aplomb. Not surprisingly, culinary cred is also in the stratosphere. And Regent is a pacesetter when it comes to complimentary tours in every port – its guests revel in the insightful visits to beguiling destinations. The eclectic collection includes options for those wanting to enhancetheirbraggingrights.

Extolling their personal discoveries was also something Crystal Cruises’ (crystalcruises.com) passengers did for 35 years. The most awarded luxury cruise line in the industry was a notable victim of the pandemic and liquidated in 2022. The company’s two, first-rate ocean ships – Crystal Serenity and CrystalSymphony–havebeensavedfromthescrappers by A&K Travel Group. The ships are slated to relaunch in July and September respectively, under the new tagline ‘Crystal: Exceptional at Sea’ The company’s  vision is to decreasethetotalnumberofguestsandincreasetheaverage size of the staterooms. It’s a noble quest and, if successful, theaccoladesaresuretoreturn.

Viking Cruises (vikingcruises.com) looked to the stars to name its latest addition to the adults-only fleet, Viking Saturn. With a Scandi-cool aesthetic fused with a concoction of decadence and whimsy, this 930-guest vessel will be the ninth in the company’s acclaimed fleet when she is christened in April. Culinary prowess is on display in The Restaurant, World Café and Aquavit Terrace as well as at The Chef’s Table, which touts a tasting menu, and Manfredi’s Italian Restaurant, plus Mamsen’s for Norwegian deli-style snacks. Drawing upon the holistic wellness philosophy of Nordic culture, the spa boasts a hydrotherapy pool, sauna and steam room, plus an authentic snow room. Ships of this environmentally friendly cruise line have an exhaust-cleaning system enabling pollutants to be removed and disposed of safely.

In a similar vein, Silversea Cruises (silversea.com) is taking a quantum leap towards a zero-carbon future when Silver Nova graces the oceans in August. Set to put the ‘nova’ in innovation, this 728-guest vessel will be the world’s first low-emissions cruise ship with advanced hybrid technology that utilises fuel cells, achieving zero local emissions while in port. As diverse as they are delicious, its gastro outlets include: La Terrazza; Atlantide; S.A.L.T. Kitchen; La Dame; Silver Note; Kaiseki; Spaccanapoli and The Grill. At the confluence of cutting-edge design and neoteric technology, this achingly cool giga-yacht, with its asymmetrical structure and horizontal layout, will be a cardinal among curates in the high church of hospitality.

SUPER NOVA Silversea’sSilverNovaembarks onherfirstvoyageinthesummer
SUPERLATIVE SAILING
Silversea Cruises is taking a quantum leap towards a zero-carbon future: Silver Nova will achieve zero local emissions in port
IN THE SWIM Right: Viking Saturn’s
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SPRING 2023 44

TIME TRIALS

From watery depths to wooded off-the-path adventures, these technically superb wrist marvels are more than up to the gruelling task, writes Chris

47 ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023
HEADING Eos nos aribusdaes et as aut volenih illabo. Et fugiae sim rem qui int invelle ssimus repro
WATCH THIS SPACE
Hall HIDDEN DEPTHS The Black Bay Pro by Tudor is water-resistant to 200m

What is a watch? Is it a fashion statement? A status symbol? A sentimental heirloom? It can be all of these, and more. But perhaps one thing it is not – in the eyes of many, anyway – is the one thing that it was originally designed to be: a functional tool.

That’s no surprise; mechanical watchmaking ceased to be cutting­edge technology half a century ago, and the industry survived by recasting itself as a luxury business. But that didn’t mean Switzerland’s finest (and those in Britain, Japan or Germany) started prioritising style over substance. Far from it: today’s watches are tougher, more reliable, more resistant to outside interference and built to higher standards than ever before.

The cynic might ask why, if most mechanical watches are more likely to be treated as valuable collectables. It’s a fair question, to be sure. But without the true technical prowess of a watch, you have merely a simulacrum: the potential ability of a high­performance item – be it a watch or an SUV – is its essence; take that away and you may as well buy an NFT.

While it may be difficult to see the utility of adventuregrade specs from a New York apartment or Hong Kong hotel room, there are still plenty of spots in the world where the cellular signal will vanish, mains power isn’t on offer and the survival of fragile electronic devices can’t be guaranteed. Moreover, as the world becomes ever smaller, intrepid souls will increasingly seek out the true wilderness. Why not pack a watch that’s up to the job?

Your first thought might be of the Rolex Explorer II (rolex. com), and you could hardly be blamed. The original Explorer –still in production – is no snowflake, but its bigger brother is the one to take on an expedition. The no­nonsense stainlesssteel bezel with its 24­hour scale and accompanying orange

IN DEEP WATER Left: Bremont’s Waterman Apex can be submerged up to 500m EXTREME CASE
ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023 48
Below: the Rolex Explorer II is made for expeditions

arrowhead hand are the iconic details, ever­present since its launch in 1971; for the 50th anniversary Rolex gave it a longer power reserve, better luminous performance and a subtly reshaped case. Originally designed for cave exploration, its focus on legibility and 24­hour timekeeping are perfect for long, disorientating stays underground. These days, it is joined by an upstart rival from sibling brand Tudor, in the form of the Black Bay Pro (tudorwatch. com). You will immediately note the family resemblance: in terms of basic functionality the two are almost inseparable, as the bezel and additional 24­hour hand would imply. However, the Tudor is smaller, at 39mm vs 42mm; it’s also regulated to a lower standard of daily accuracy and costs less than half the price of the Rolex. It does boast double the water resistance, at 200m, so if caving suddenly turns into cave­diving, you’ll be covered.

If underwater exploration is your passion, you are spoilt for choice. But why not go straight to the most hardcore dive watch available: Omega’s Planet Ocean Ultra Deep (omegawatches.com), a titanium and ceramic beast of a watch that’s rated to withstand an astonishing 6,000m of submarine pressure.

Or, if that seems like overkill, there’s Bremont’s Waterman Apex (bremont.com), rated to a mere 500m (enough for all needs, to be honest). Its offset crown is designed to guard against accidental knocks, and in buying one you would also be supporting the Bahamian non­profit Bimini Shark Lab, which is dedicated to studying and protecting sharks and rays.

Back on dry land, may we recommend something that wears its toughness a bit more lightly? The Oris ProPilot Coulson (oris.ch) is developed in partnership with a group of aerial firefighters – hence the dramatic orange dial – but thanks to its lightweight yet robust carbon­fibre case, it comes into its own anywhere from the Alps to the Appalachian Trail. A simple, strong watch for venturing off the beaten path –with a 10­year warranty, to boot – that shows you can be practical and eye­catching at the same time.

A REALLY DEEP DIVE

Above: the Omega Planet Ocean Ultra Deep is waterresistant to 6,000m

CLOCKWORK ORANGE

Far left: Oris’s eyepopping ProPilot Coulson is both lightweight and robust

WATCH THIS SPACE
The most hardcore dive watch is Omega’s Planet Ocean Ultra Deep, a titanium and ceramic watch rated to withstand 6,000m of submarine pressure
ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023 49

On which note, if you are so inclined, there is something of a style statement about IWC’s monotone collection of Big Pilot Top Gun chronographs in solid ceramic. The Woodland Edition in forest green (iwc.com) is our pick; it’s a 44.5mm in­house chrono on a textile and rubber strap that says build quality is important, but so is a commitment to good design.

Perhaps the ultimate wrist­worn expression of extreme outdoor pursuits comes from Panerai. Released last year, the Submersible Forze Speciali (panerai.com) was created in partnership with Italian elite military units and, at 47mm across with a black­coated titanium case, ceramic bezel and crosshair dial design, is about as subtle as that would imply. But one thing is to be hoped for: wherever you find yourself in the world, it shouldn’t let you down…

INTO THE BLUE

Left: Panerai’s Submersible Forze Speciali, created with Italian elite military units

BRANCHING OUT

Below: IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph

Top Gun Edition Woodland in forestgreen ceramic

WATCH THIS SPACE
The Woodland Edition of IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Top Gun in green says build quality is important, but so is good design
ULTRATRAVEL SPRING 2023 50

THE CALL OF CALEDONIA

ULTRATRAVEL 54 SPRING 2023 ITINERARY

For tennis fans, it’s a trip to Wimbledon. For devotees of cricket, it’s a visit to Lord’s. And for golfers, nothing represents a pilgrimage to the birthplace of the game more than a visit to Scotland, the home of golf. But, unlike the celebrated homes of tennis and cricket, in Scotland visitors can actually play the very hallowed courses that have been inscribed in legend and lore, walking the same fairways and challenging the same greens (with some stipulations) that have vexed and befuddled the great and good for decades, if not centuries.

And while Caledonia’s golfing charms remain as etched into the countryside as the many trademark revetted pot bunkers and fescue-lined fairways that are omnipresent throughout the land, there are changes afoot in the landscape of the game. Thanks to an influx of investment, much of it foreign, the great game and its hospitality ancillaries have seen a bounty of tempered and wellconsidered development over the past 12 to 24 months, from the west to the east of the country where the saltire flies.

ULTRATRAVEL
Golf in Scotland has never been better, from new links joining the roster of classic courses to a handful of top-notch restaurants.
GIMME FIFE This picture and right: the new Dumbarnie Links, designed by Clive Clark, has Firth of Forth views
There are changes afoot in the landscape of the game, thanks to an influx of investment
MARTIN KREUZER

THE KING OF FIFE

The excitement following last year’s 150th edition of The Open at St Andrews has just started to dissipate, but not people’s appetite to visit the legendary track

TEEING OFF:

Don’t fret if you can’t get on The Old Course. Some nine miles south of St Andrews is Britain’s newest golfing jewel, Dumbarnie Links (dumbarnielinks.com). Designed by Clive Clark (a member of the 1973 Great Britain and Ireland Ryder Cup team), this newcomer and winner for the Best Scottish Golf Experience in 2021 occupies the last great piece of coastal land in the area: a 1.5-mile stretch of waterfront on the south coast of Fife featuring panoramas over the Firth of Forth from every hole. Studded with more than 600 dunes and playing as a 6,905-yard par 72, the unique two-tiered site has already played host to the 2021 Women’s Scottish Open and, thanks to its daily fee model, has become an instant must-play with devotees of the game who have rushed from mainland European and the US to see what all the fuss is about. “There are magnificent views from every hole – if one considers the courses on The Open Championship rota, many have little or no water views,” says Clark, aptly, of the sure-toclassic track with a mix of gently swaying risk-reward doglegs, holes with split-fairways, punishing pot bunkers juxtaposed with the natural sandy variety which are “surrounded by tall fescue grasses waving in the wind,” according to Clark, and more than a handful of memorable holes. These include the par-three eight: a 157-yard devilish downhiller which puts the emphasis on target golf into a well-protected postage-stamp green framed by the Firth of Forth in the background.

Another track that puts the premium on accuracy is the often overlooked and little-known heathland track called The Duke’s Course (thedukescourse.co.uk), located a couple of miles inland. Designed by five-time Open Champion Peter Thomson, it stretches to 7,512 yards from the tips and flows from pockets of forest through farmlands to the hilltop par-four 13th, which affords spectacular panoramas of the town and bay of St Andrews towards the Firth of Tay and Carnoustie. A fun, fair and fearsome (depending on which of the five tees you choose) test of parkland golf where smart execution is a must and where the challenge, unlike in some of the links in Scotland, is uncomplicatedly presented before you.

WHERE TO EAT:

Whatever you do, don’t forgo a meal at Restaurant 18 (18standrews.co.uk), where reservations are not only encouraged but recommended. Helmed by Derek Johnstone, the eatery boasts stunning views over the Old Course and West Sands Beach from its fourth-floor perch, not to mention a vast terrace featuring a mini putting green, for pre-prandial frivolities. But the vistas and the fun take a backseat to the deft cookery of Johnstone, the inaugural winner of MasterChef The Professionals. Purveyed with precision in a clubby wood-panelled space is a mostly surf-and-turf openflame menu consisting of locally sourced beef, game and freshly caught seafood, all skilfully prepared on the state-ofthe-art robata grill. If you can’t score a table at Restaurant 18, make your way to Balgove (balgove.com), a farm shop with a trio of eateries on the outskirts of town. While you will have to queue, as it operates a no-booking policy, a seat at the Steak Barn is fêted among locals and visitors alike for its superlative steaks, hung for no less than 28 days, as well as burgers and home-made sausages, all of which are cooked on a huge open wood-fired barbecue and served with twicefried chips, or crispy beer-battered onion rings, wine and local beer. Just don’t tell your cardiologist.

FUN & FAIR
The ninth hole at the lesser-known but very enjoyable Duke’s Course VIEW TO A THRILL
The 13th hole at The Duke’s Course has particularly wonderful views
Dumbarnie Links has become an instant must-play with devotees of the game who have rushed from mainland Europe and the US to see what all the fuss is about
ITINERARY ULTRATRAVEL 56 SPRING 2023

YOURS AYE AYRSHIRE

Stay and play along a stretch of golfing terrain that’s unrivalled in the world

With names like Glasgow Gailes, Western Gailes, Royal Troon, Turnberry and Prestwick, this stretch of coastline south of Glasgow is blessed with some of the best courses in the world. Now, a name known mostly in the British Isles, Dundonald Links (dundonaldlinks.com) has been enjoying its international close-up following an ambitious £25 million investment. Designed by noted American architect Kyle Phillips (whose credits include such headlining tracks such as Kingsbarns in Fife, The Grove in Hertfordshire, the redesign of Paris’ Golf De Morfontaine, Yas Links in Abu Dhabi and two courses at Verdura in Sicily, among many others), the par-72, 7303-yard course on Scotland’s west coast is a modern links golf experience (near but not on the seafront) with generous fairways, undulating greens, strategic catch bunkers and well-placed burns on a site that dates to 1911. But it is now complemented by a two-storey clubhouse as well as 18 luxury lodges with innumerable amenities, including a series of private putting greens for guests who overnight, right on their doorstep. It’s no wonder it was chosen to play host to last summer’s Women’s Scottish Open.

PERTHSHIRE PEARL

The 16th-century Forter Castle sleeps up to 12 self-catering guests

HIGHLAND HAPPENINGS

A trio of essential stopovers for bedding down, tucking in and kicking back

There is no shortage of places to call home in this prelapsarian part of the world. But skip the beautifully bijou 16th-century Forter Castle ( fortercastle.com) at your own peril. Situated in the heart of Perthshire, inside Cairngorms National Park, this five-floored towered stone citadel was rescued by the Pooley family brick-by-brick back in 1988 and has been lovingly restored by the scion, noted interior designer Katharine Pooley. Expect refined touches such as four-poster beds and high-thread-count sheets; cut-crystal decanters and stemware; acres and acres of family tweed and tartan; dozens of oil paintings, ceremonial swords and crests and coats of arms strewn around the exclusiveuse property, which is now both a family home and a holiday rental sleeping up to 12 guests (plus three dogs). For hopeless romantics, there’s even a chapel, should a stay prove truly life-changing.

57 SPRING 2023 ITINERARY
MARTIN KREUZER KING OF THE CASTLE
ULTRATRAVEL
The Laird’s Room at Forter Castle, where renowned interior designer Katharine Pooley has worked her magic

Over near Crieff, Scotland’s oldest working distillery now has one of the country’s most refined fine-dining experiences: The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant (theglenturret.com/ restaurant). Backed by the deep pockets of the French glassware, fragrance and parfum house which now owns the distillery, it drafted in head chef Mark Donald in 2021 who, in less than six months, burnished his already impressive culinary credentials by securing a Michelin star for the site. His precise execution, delicate flavours and exquisite attention to detail and stunning presentation are evident in the multicourse tasting menu with locally sourced ingredients that are paired to a substantial and impressive wine list, curated by executive sommelier Julien Beltzung. Service is unimpeachable, as is the sizeable selection of rare and aged whiskies on offer in the bar.

The biggest news out of the Highlands, however, concerns (what else?) golf. Having been acquired by celebrated Canadian developer Cabot, Castle Stuart Golf Links will soon have a sister course designed by acclaimed golf course architect Tom Doak. Located on a pristine piece of land along the coast of Moray Firth, the course will play around Castle Stuart’s 400-year-old castle and incorporate natural contours, meandering through hillsides and expansive open land with several holes along the water.

“Castle Stuart has been considered a benchmark of exceptional Scottish golf since it first opened 13 years ago,” Ben Cowan-Dewar, CEO and co-founder of Cabot, said last summer of its first European project. “We are honoured to be a steward of the land and carry the original vision for the property forward.” That vision, as part of the newly dubbed Cabot Highlands (cabothighlands.com), also includes a realestate offering, allowing those who wish to own a part of this storied landscape access to its natural beauty, not to mention hiking, cycling, fishing, falconry, horseback riding and more, all year round.

Mark Donald burnished his already impressive credentials by securing a Michelin star
ITINERARY
STEVE SZURLEY A DELICATE BALANCE Langoustine, buttermilk and Sturia caviar, as served at Glenturret Lalique Restaurant GOOD CRIEFF Above: Mark Donald, chef at The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant, near Crieff GLASS CLASS Right: the Lalique Bar at The Glenturret Lalique Restaurant GOLDEN HOUR
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The ninth hole and clubhouse at Cabot Highlands’ Castle Stuart Golf Links

LURE OF KINTYRE

Campbeltown and its surrounds in Scotland’s southwest are worthy of a journey

WHERE TO PLAY:

Most low-handicappers who make the trek to this remote big-sky isthmus head straight for Machrihanish Golf Club, rightly considered one of the most special places to play in the whole of Britain and Ireland. However, just up the coast lies homegrown architect David McLay-Kidd’s Machrihanish Dunes (machrihanishdunes.com): as authentic an experience of how this ancient game was once played as you’ll find, well, nowhere else in the world. This under-presented 7,082-yard, par-72 is in harmony and within nature. It has to be: because it lies on a Site of Special Scientific Interest (the only course ever built to have this recognition), the use of fertilisers and pesticides are forbidden; the same goes for the installation of irrigation and drainage. Instead, McLay-Kidd – whose previous credits include blockbuster layouts such as Bandon Dunes in Oregon, Queenwood in England and Laucala in Fiji, to name just three – has taken the natural hollows, valleys and ridges, all set hard on the shores of the Atlantic, to fashion a course that is golf in its purest form: natural and wild with no fewer than six greens and five tees at the ocean’s edge. You’ll need a windproof game, patience and lots of balls to tackle this unique entity, where more than a handful of blind approaches, natural bunkers and a landscape unaltered in

millennia challenge. “Mach Dunes was the most minimal build ever,” McLay-Kidd told Golf World magazine. “Even Old Tom would have been impressed!”

WHERE TO EAT:

Book successive reservations for some of the freshest seafood you’ll find at Number Forty Two (gmat42.com), the brainchild of chef Gordon McNeill. Located in Campbeltown, this is a low-key showcase of grilled and game meats,

seafood and shellfish, all presented with aplomb to a mostly local clientele. The seasonal menu is an ever-changing one but, if available, don’t forgo the lobster, langoustine and stone crab or, for that matter, the mussels and the scallops. You won’t be disappointed.

WORTH A DETOUR:

Known mostly to whisky connoisseurs, the windswept isle of Islay (pronounced eye-la), 15 miles off Scotland’s west coast, hasn’t really been on the radar of 36-a-day types. That all changed in 2018 with the relaunch of The Machrie Golf Links (themachrielinks.com) on a landmass that’s home to some of the most lauded distilleries in the world, with names like Ardbeg, Bowmore and Laphroaig, nine in all. Originally created in 1891, the bonsai-perfect course which shines today on Laggan Bay is effectively a newbie, refashioned and rebuilt from an ancient footprint by European Tour veteran and European Ryder Cup vice-captain DJ Russell. And it’s a beauty: a playful, penal and pretty track measuring, by today’s standards, a modest 7,000-plus yards, that weaves and wends its way in, out and around the ruggedly natural omnipresent dunes on this stretch of the southernmost island of the Inner Hebrides. Just seven of the original greens remain but many of them are contoured and surrounded by strategically placed bunkers and mounding and surrounded by native grasses which frame them to the eye on long approaches, giving the course (unlike some links tracks) visual depth. The lapping waters of the Atlantic are never far away – nor are the other accoutrements, including the six-hole short course, an extensive pitching and putting area and, of course, the driving range. It’s all located on the doorstep of the bijou and even newer 47-room hotel-cumclubhouse that has a whimsical and brightly coloured Scottish-Scandi design ethos and all the chic mod cons you’d expect, as well as a vast vaulted ceiling under which a welcoming bar and restaurant are located and, for wellness, a spa, gym and sauna downstairs.

ULTRATRAVEL 59 SPRING 2023 ITINERARY
Machrihanish Dunes is golf in its purest form: natural and wild with six greens and five tees at the ocean’s edge
MARTIN KREUZER THE GREENS ZONE Top: the fifth at David McLayKidd’s Machrihanish Dunes. Left: the Machrie Golf Links’ eighth green, on the isle of Islay

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One of several smart plays that electric-car brand Polestar has made in its short lifespan is the way it has blurred the line between car brand and tech start-up. With a self-styled disruptor mindset and almost fetishistic focus on design, it chose to do away with old-school showrooms and opened up city-centre stores with white walls and smiling staff in black tees – influenced, perhaps, by a certain Cupertino-based technology company, and why not?

Offering cars with minimalist interiors, sharp detailing and a monochrome aesthetic, even their names – Polestar 1 and Polestar 2 – are a refreshing reset from the rest of the industry, where baffling number combinations and made-up words that sound like discontinued aftershave lines remain the norm. In short, these guys saw a niche for early adopters in the burgeoning EV market and pounced.

What about the actual cars? Well, the new Polestar 3 is arriving not just as its first genuine SUV, but as the first ‘pure’ Polestar model so far.

As a sister brand of Volvo in the Geely group, Polestar’s first two models had their roots in existing Volvo concept models. Designed and developed from the ground up as a Polestar, the 3 is, then, the car both its team and its followers have been waiting for.

It certainly looks the part. It’s not an easy thing to make an SUV look pretty, but with its tactile sci-fi styling that somehow brings to mind a modern update on a stormtrooper’s suit in automotive form, the 3 continues where the 2 left off. It’s proof that good design can catch the eye without you necessarily knowing why, and new owners will need to get used to the particular attention Polestars seem to attract, partly of the “What is that?” variety.

For a big car, it manages to carry a sporty presence, its front air vents and rear spoiler a visual nod to the extensive efforts that have been made to make this car as dynamic to drive as possible. With torque vectoring, active air suspension and adaptive dampers it is able to adjust between comfort and dynamic modes every two milliseconds. The standard model produces a hefty 483hp and takes 4.9 seconds to hit 60mph from a standing start. The Performance pack boosts this power to 510hp (and 4.6 seconds). Sterile and characterless electric transportation this most certainly is not.

Polestar has upped the comfort levels and luxury detailing inside the 3, with soft-closing doors, intricate bucket seats and a slick 25-speaker Bowers & Wilkins sound system as standard. Minimalism is still the watchword, though. The huge infotainment screen is the sole cabin feature, with a single volume knob below. A host of smart safety and driver-assist features are also included via its Pilot pack.

It will be interesting to watch the Polestar story continue to unfold, with models 4, 5 and 6 in the pipeline. Its way of trying to stand out from the crowd has been to take a step back. Its 2022 Super Bowl advert in the US promised ‘No epic voiceovers’. The message: we’ll let

the cars do the talking. And talk they continue to do.

In a way, Polestar feels a bit like an exclusive club. Joining this club comes with a lofty price tag – the Polestar 3 starts at almost £80k. But it’s a club to be a member of, nonetheless. (polestar.com )

TEST DRIVE
SPRING 2023 62 ULTRATRAVEL
Designed and developed from the ground up as a Polestar, the 3 is the car both its team and its followers have been waiting for
POLESTAR
2023 ALL RIGHTS
3 IS THE MAGIC NUMBER The Polestar 3 SUV combines a sporty, dynamic exterior with luxe minimalism inside
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RESERVED

ELECTRIC DREAM

Polestar’s fresh approach to the electric-car industry is perfectly encapsulated by its latest model, the 3, says

63 SPRING 2023 ULTRATRAVEL

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