Atelier (Issue 04) by Union Print

A telier A Pinch of Summer

Here Comes the Summer Sun ummer was here again. Summer, summer, summer. I loved and hated summers. Summers had a logic all their own and they always brought something out in me. Summer was supposed to be about freedom and youth and no school and possibilities and adventure and exploration. Summer was a book of hope. That's why I loved and hated summers. Because they made me want to believe.” Benjamin Alire Sáenz, Aristotle and Dante Discover the Secrets of the Universe Summer is back and together with it the scorching sun, the sea and the sand. Summer is also that time of the year when fresh vibrant colours come to life and find their way into our clothes, in our homes and in every corner of our planet. It is also that time of the year when we resort to cottons, linens, rayons and chambrays which offer a lighter, softer and more breathable option to our skin and to our environment. The beauty of summer could not be seen from better eyes than those of local and foreign talent in the fashion, beauty, photography, architecture and design. Summer is also seen through the eyes of key representatives of local society. Each individual shares with us how summer fits into their life and why it is considered by many as a truly special time of the year. We wish you all a pleasant read and a great summer!

Editor: Omar Vella - atelier@unionprint.com.mt Proof Reading: Ramona Marie Vella Cini - Marthese Cauchi

No part of this publication may be reproduced, or transmitted in any form without the prior consent of Union Print Co. Ltd.

Design: Ryan Bezzina - design@unionprint.com.mt Front image:

While we make every effort to make sure that the content of Atelier is correct, we cannot take any responsibility nor be held accountable for any factual errors printed.

Model - Venla Katariina E Edelmann - Models M Hair - Neville Roman Zammit Make-up - Elaine Galea Venere Location - Cugó Gran Macina Grand Harbour Photography - Matthew B Spiteri

Printing & Publishing: Union Print Co. Ltd, Workers' Memorial Building, 3rd Floor, South Street, Valletta +356 2590 0200

Photos: We thank all contributers for providing photos and images. Advertising:

adverts@unionprint.com.mt - +356 2590 0200

Design & Architecture 12 Edwin Mintoff 34 Ann Wolf

Fashion 52 62

Jason Grech Katrina Pavia

70 84

Matthew B Spiteri Mary Grace Pisani

Beauty 96 102

Monica Robustelli Jennifer Dimech

Society 122 Larissa Bonaci 132 Kevin Abela 138 146

Veronique Dalli Phil Borges

Photography Photo credit: Matthew B Spiteri Model: Charlene by Models M Makeup: Alexia Kind Beauty Hair: D Salon

164 RĂŠhahn 182 John Hennequin 186 Stefan Varga

If a building becomes architecture, then it is art. Arne Jacobsen 10

DESIGN ARCHITECTURE

Photo credit: Matteo Thun & Partners

Designing Oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Aspirations

A telier

Photo credit: Alan Carville

Interview with Edwin Mintoff, by Matthew Charles Zammit

telier meets with the famous Maltese architect Edwin Mintoff, to discuss the challenges faced by Maltese

architects and his immediate reaction to Renzo Piano's phone call.

Photo credit: Domus Zomitello

You have had an utterly fascinating career here in Malta. How did it all start? I was always fascinated with architecture: Ever since I can remember, in my mind there was no doubt that this was the profession which I wanted to pursue. I always felt perplexed whenever I looked at buildings, and eventually, I transformed what was then an innate curiosity, into a passion and a career.

I remember attending primary school, which was very close to the office of my uncle (architect and former Prime Minister Dom Mintoff), and I frequently used to go to his office in Valletta. I was lucky enough to witness first hand all the projects that were being made. I spent countless hours with different draughtsmen, working together as they planned their next big project.

A telier architect to obtain a recognised Ph.D in architecture, studies which have indubitably enriched me, and gave me new perspectives in my work. My experience in architecture was indubitably enriched by these post-graduate studies, but what also helped was the work experience I managed to obtain while I was working in the UK. Since then, my life has always been a hectic one, but I’m only a workaholic because I’m lucky that my work is also my passion. What would you consider to be the high-points of your career? When I came back, I was encouraged to join the Government. In fact, I was the first person to set-up a rehabitiliation committee of any kind. What was also very challenging for me was the fact that Renzo Piano had heard about my Ph.D thesis, which was on urban renewal and had taken Valletta as a case study, and wanted to share his vision of Valletta with me prior to commencing the project. Apparently, Mr Piano was so impressed with my thesis that he personally called me, inviting me to work with him on his project. His letter, and that phone call, are memories which I will cherish forever. I will admit though, that what I consider to be on the highlights of my career, started on an awkward note…

As a student, I was already interested in developing new architectural projects, and after my degree was finalised, I was very keen in setting up my own practice. At the same time, I was heavily encouraged by local examiners to continue pursuing my studies abroad. Advice which, with some persuasion from my father, I followed. Today, I’m proud to point out that I was the first Maltese

Why is that? Well…. I first received the call by Mr Piano while I was enjoying some recreational time in Newcastle. I swear, when the call came in, I initially thought it was a prank, so much so that when the person on the other side of the phone said, “Mr Piano wants to speak with you”, my immediate reaction was to reply: “Yes, of course. Tell him I’m Elvis Presley.” I laugh about it now, but back then it was such a shock. I’ve received numerous trophies and accolades during the years, all of which I cherish greatly, and yet the letter which Mr Piano sent to me all those years ago, is amongst the most valued certificates I have, and I still cherish it to this day.

What does architecture mean to you? When I’m approached by a client, internally I still have the same verve, energy and passion as ever, even so many years after I first started working as an architect. As they say, I’m still young at heart. Most people associate architecture with buildings and structure, which to be fair, in a purely simplistic manner it is. But I feel that architecture is first and foremost about people, and about improving their quality of life. Understanding their way of life, and what their aspirations are in that particular context, are essential in determining how successful a building design turns out to be. At one point in time, I could be meeting a young, recently-engaged couple, working on their first family home. Within an hour, I could be speaking to a wealthy industrialist, who’s hoping to be involved in a major development. For me, they’re both clients, and they’re equally important. The most important thing is translating each client’s aspirations and hopes, into the buildings they seek. It’s not about building structures: it’s about trying to develop a future for them, and having buildings which assist them in whatever aspirations they may have.

How would you define your philosophy? The architect has to convey a message. It has to speak volumes about what the owner’s hopes are. Unfortunately, there is this trend that sometimes, the profession of architecture is looked down upon, as merely those who design buildings and that’s it. Sometimes, one person’s structure can be copied and duplicated for other projects, for the sake of convenience, even if the owners and residents of the buildings are completely different. I must say that, over the years, architecture in Malta has significantly improved, but I do feel that there’s much still to be done. Developing such projects, to meet these tailor-made requirements, is the only sure-fire way of ensuring that such a project gets the recognition and admiration it deserves.

closer to heart are Skyparks in Luqa, the FIMBank Headquarters in St Julians, the Baystreet complex, the Shoreline development etc. I think that over the years, the most rewarding projects are those related with bringing new life to buildings which were worn-down, or abandoned for a number of years. I was always keen on urban-renewal, and this issue of breathing new life into buildings, is quite a rewarding and amazing experience. It is challenging, as somehow you need to respect the old while being conscious of the new, but when done, very few things give you as much satisfaction.

Which is your favourite work? We’re involved in numerous projects, and they range in size and in shapes. Some of the projects which are

In what way is Malta's architecture different from that found in other countries? In contrast to other places, and in spite of all the

A telier

issues that our country faces (especially the small geographical size, and the population density), people here are very proud of their traditional roots, and we will fight tooth and nail to preserve those buildings which they consider traditional and significant. The old village cores, for example, are a shining example of such a commitment to their common heritage, and it should be applauded. Our greatest problem undoubtedly is this, that land is at a premium. We need to accommodate far more facilities here in Malta then before, and finding a balance is very difficult. Several questions have to be answered. Do you go towards high-rise buildings, or do you spread and take over more land? One thing that should always be kept into consideration in this regard, is the importance that

we need to give on rehabilitating disused buildings first, rather than going for new projects immediately. There have been a number of financial and taxrelaxation measures on this point, however more could and should be done. We need a number of new, and brave policies, which mitigates this issue. Another issue to keep in mind is the one related to our village cores: Due to a strong affinity of the local community with their surroundings, the older generation has remained the dominant demographic within the old town and village centres, while the yonger generation has looked for different places. In other countries, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s entirely different: The towns which are most sought after, in the UK and Italy, are usually the prime targets for a younger generation, while older people look towards properties on the outskirts of these villages.

In what way has architecture changed over the past years? Over the past years, and the changes in the future, are all reflections of these emerging needs and acitivities. In part, it may be positive, in others not so much. From my experience, what I think is very positive is that we have witnessed a change in mentality in investors. Quality has become more important than quantity. Whereas in the past, a land owner would have been focused on accommodating as much units as possible, by possibly even reducing the size of the unit, now there seems to be a wide-spread

generalization that developments need to be quality-oriented. The aspirations of so many people here in Malta are that the units they seek are of good quality, and if they exist, the Maltese are ready to pay for it. The quality of the architecture that we produce in our country needs to remain at this high level. People are coming forward to invest in quality. Change will occur: The important thing is that these changes are done sensitively, in the sense that they take into consideration the local context. Our local heritage must be safeguarded properly.

A telier

On this point of rejuvenation, one main sticking point is the possibility that the rejuvenation of a building, or an area, might automatically lead to gentrification, with the local population being squeezed out of their own homes. How difficult is it to reach a balance here? The commercial dimension can take over the residential element. And we have this in Valletta: the city becomes so appealing to entrepreneurs, that it’s quite simple for them to take over residential space and misuse it. This is a difficult point, but we’ve seen how a balance can be hammered out. In the Cottonera area for example, up to a few years ago, a large number of properties were in a slow state of decay, and it was quite difficult for such an area to be rejuvenated. Fast forward to present day, and thanks to a number of projects, most notably the Vittoriosa waterfront, the rejuvenation has taken place, but not at the extent of the locals. Basically, the most important thing is to maintain a balance between the residents and the business community: You can never have a city or a village which is thriving during the day, but dead at night. I am a big, firm believer in the concept of rehabiliation, and if we look at what we have done right, despite our negative attributes, our country is still an amazing place, and we could really transform our country into an even better looking one in the future.

What makes the design of Cugó Gran Macina Grand Harbour so particular? When we started working on this project, the area has been subject to decay, misuse and vandalism for a number of years. We had to meet the challenge of introducing infrastructure in buildings which were built ages ago. The joy of doing such a project is that, every single year, we were discovering something new, which was a passing moment in history. Whenever we were cleaning the walls, we would very often find inscriptions on said walls which dated tens, if not hundreds of years. Even from the age of the Knights of St John. The challenge, then, was ensuring that future generations get to enjoy the history of this building as much as we did, while at the same time transforming the building and the entire area into a contemporary use.

What should prospective architects keep in mind? Easy. Architects must be aware of the immense responsability that they have: it’s not just playing with buildings and strucutres, we’re playing with people’s lives, and the lives of their children. Keep this in mind, and the rest of the solutions towards the design of your project just flow naturally. There’s no complicated process, there’s no need for anyone to be a genius, in order to be a successful architect. You only need to be conscientious, to engage in a dialogue with your clients and the interested stakeholders, including the local community. With this general philosophy, your projects are bound to be successful and leave their desired impact.

HOSPITAL WALDKLINIKEN EISENBERG, THURINGIA, GERMANY The project is a 3 Zero certification project Zero Kilometres, Zero CO2, Zero Waste. Zero kilometres: nearness of construction materials and local skills. Zero CO2: energy management and lower emissions. Zero waste: lifecyle-management in the building process and reuse of building materials.

aldkliniken Eisenberg is the

largest

orthopaedic

centre in Europe, located in the middle of the Thuringia

Forest. Architecture and interior design of the new campus convinced the Ministry of

Architecture: Matteo Thun & Partners

Thuringia as the most ecological, sustainable

Interior Design: Matteo Thun & Partners +

and economical concept. The goal for the

Matteo Thun Atelier Chronology: 2013-2019 15.000 square meters

campus design is to influence the relationship between physical space and well-being. Hotel standard for a hospital: The 240-bed project will house orthopaedic patients in a building that focuses on the guest. Natural materials, an interaction of inside and outside, a delicate use of light and colour are designed to promote the healing process and have been united in a concept that is rarely found in hospital environments. To ensure efficiency, functionality and user-friendliness of the new building, Matteo Thun & Partners will involve HDR TMK. The specialist in health, science and technology Design will assist the architect in planning and implementation of the project.

A telier

Photo credits: Matteo Thun & Partners

CREATIVE MIND

MARINA TABASSUM Principal Architect

Marina Tabassum Architects (MTA) is a leading architecture practice based in Dhaka, Bangladesh. MTA began its journey in the quest of establishing a language of architecture that is contemporary to the world yet rooted to the place. MTA stands against the global pressure of consumer architecture-easy and quick-fast breed of buildings, confused and impersonal, out of place and context; thus is the pledge of the practice to root Architecture to the place; thus the material palette - the climate,

the location, the culture of the people, the history of the land. The practice is consciously kept and retained in an optimum size and projects undertaken are carefully chosen and are limited by number per year. The projects done and at hand are varied, ranging from Master Planning of Eco Resort to twelve storey residential blocks. MTA worked on the Abu Dhabi Mosque Development Regulation Guideline (ADMDR) with Urban Planning Council of Abu Dhabi. The

Credit: Hassan Saifuddin Chandan

Credit: Sandro di Carlo Darsa

guideline is a published document in effect since 2013. MTA is chosen as one of the top 50 practices of South Asia by Architecture Digest in 2015. MTAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s project Bait Ur Rouf Mosque is a recipient of Aga Khan Award for Architecture in the thirteenth cycle. MTA also won Jameel Prize 2018. Marina Tabassum is the Academic Director of Bengal Institute for Architecture, Landscapes and Settlements. The Institute is providing an inspiring and intellectual platform for those involved in

imagining and shaping the future of the environment, the institute works in a dynamic, nonhierarchical setting to re-think assumptions, and explore and test the limits of environmental design practices. Tabassum teaches design studios in BRAC University since 2005. She taught advanced design studio as Visiting Professor at UT Arlington. She took a Design Studio in Harvard GSD in the fall of 2017 and currently teaching at TU Delft, Netherlands. Marina Tabassum directed two international conferences in Dhaka Bangladesh named Bengal, Architecture Symposium in April and November 2016. More than 1200 architects and students of the country attended the symposiums. She designed two major exhibitions while in URBANA and an Exhibition on Religion and Architecture at Goethe-Institut, Dhaka in 2007. She has lectured and presented her works and ideas of Architecture in various prestigious International Architectural Events that include Ajman Planning Conference 2007, DATUM KL 2009, IGBC International Conference in Delhi 2012, RĂ&#x2DC;ros Seminar in Norway 2013, IPAX Karachi 2014, National Conference of Royal Institute of Australian Architects in 2014, Thinking Local at Harvard GSD 2016 to name a few. Her works and interviews are published in various national and international magazines and books.

The City Gate Project

he ‘City Gate’ project takes in the complete reorganisation of the principal entrance of Malta's capital city Valletta. The project comprises four parts: the Valletta City Gate and its site immediately outside the city walls, the design for an open-air theatre ‘machine’ within the ruins of the former Royal opera house, the construction of a new Parliament building and the landscaping of the ditch.

The gate, the ditch and the city walls: A bridge’s width is usually defined in relation to its length. However, the bridge leading across the ditch to the Valletta City Gate had been repeatedly enlarged over time until it had lost both its initial shape and function, becoming more city square than bridge. With the aim of resolving this rather unsatisfactory transformation, the project focused on returning the bridge to its 1633 ‘Dingli’s Gate’ dimensions, by demolishing later additions. The first objective of the project was to reinstate the ramparts’ original feeling of depth and strength and to reinforce the narrowness of the entrance to the city, while opening up views of Republic Street. The new city gate is a ‘breach’ in the wall only 8m wide. The key element of this redevelopment was opening the gate to the sky. The section of Pope Pius V Street that formerly ran immediately inside the gate at a raised level has been demolished and replaced by two wide, gently sloping flights of steps to each side of the new gate, inspired by the stairs that had framed the gate before the construction of Freedom Square.

Client: Grand Harbour Regeneration Corporation Renzo Piano Building Workshop, architects in collaboration with Architecture Project (Valletta) Design Team: A.Belvedere, B. Plattner (partners in charge) with D.Franceschin, P.Colonna, P.Pires da Fonte, S.Giorgio-Marrano, N.Baniahmad, A.Boucsein, J.Da Nova, T.Gantner, N.Delevaux, N. Byrelid, R.Tse and B.Alves de Campos, J.LaBoskey, A.Panchasara, A.Thompson; S.Moreau; O. Aubert, C.Colson, Y.Kyrkos (models) Consultants: Arup (acoustics, civil, structural and MEP engineering); Kevin Ramsey (stone consultant), Daniele Abbado (theatre consultant), Müller BBM (acoustics), Franck Franjou (lighting), Studio Giorgetta (landscaping), Silvano Cova (theatre special equipment). Credits: Michel Denancé

The Parliament, an environmentally responsible building: The parliament building is made up of two massive blocks in stone that are balanced on slender columns to give the building a sense of lightness, the whole respecting the line of the existing street layout. The northernmost block is principally given over to the parliament chamber, while the south block accommodates members of parliament’s offices and the offices of the Prime Minister and Leader of the Opposition. The parliament’s facades are finished in solid stone. This stone has been sculpted as though eroded by the direction of the sun and the views around it, creating a fully functional device that filters solar radiation while allowing natural daylight inside, all the while maintaining views from the building. The result is a stone architecture that is fitting for its historic context but also the product of cutting-edge technology. Energy use and environmental considerations are principal components in the design of this building. On the one hand, stone is used for the building’s facade to diminish solar heat gain and to allow natural ventilation. Stone is also effective as part of the building’s geothermal heat exchanger, with 40 geothermal boreholes sunk into rock to depths of 140m,

100m below sea-level. In addition, the roof is covered with 600 sq m of photovoltaic panels – an ambitious energy strategy that allows the building to generate 80% of the energy required to heat it in the winter and 60% of its requirements to cool it in the summer months.

The Royal Opera House site: Built between 1862 and 1866 by E.M. Barry, the Royal Opera House was destroyed during the bombardments of 1942. The ruins have now been restored, made secure and integrated into the new project for an open-air theatre. When events are not being held here, the theatre functions as an open piazza, a public city space, a social space. During the summer, the steel structure placed within the historic remains works like a ‘theatre machine’. Almost 1,000 seats are installed and a theatre takes form for a season of opera, dance, theatre and concerts, a programme that requires a variety of theatre configurations that are made possible thanks to the structure’s mechanised stage and theatre wings. The theatre is also equipped with an ERES acoustic enhancement system that can recreate the reverberations and acoustics of an interior concert hall space.

Sheer Driving Pleasure

THE NEW BMW X5 WITH THE BEST XDRIVE OF ALL TIMES

STARTING FROM

69,000 EURO

(Inclusive of Government Grant and Scrappage Scheme). Electrifying power for supreme driving pleasure: the new BMW X5 xDrive45e iPerformance. New edition of the Sports Activity Vehicle with plug-in hybrid drive combines in-line 6-cylinder petrol engine with the very latest BMW eDrive technology – system output increased to 290 kW/394 hp, electrically powered range now up to 80 kilometres* – characteristic sporty flair, unlimited off-road performance and outstanding efficiency with CO2 emissions of less than 50 g/km* – market launch in the course of 2019.

Muscats Motors Ltd Rue D’Argens, Gżira Phone: 2326 4582/09 Email: info@mml.mizzi.com.mt bmw.com.mt

A telier

BMW PHEV

riving a car from the BMW Plug-in Hybrid range means that you will be driving with intelligence. The range takes the best of BMWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s combustion engines, and combine it with the modern battery technology and an electric motor. This results to a BWM with two power sources. Moreover, it is a totally responsive drive, with zero emissions at the point of use. Put differently, any emissions created in generating the electricity to be used for charging the battery is not included.

The BMW Plug-in Hybrid vehicles are driven by two power sources. This is achieved by the use of a small electric engine working concurrently with a petrol engine. The advantage to Hybrid cars over conventional cars is that the same level of performance is delivered with lower running costs and reduced emissions. At the same time, hybrid cars offer the same excellent range and convenience of a model with a traditional engine. BMWâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s lithium-ion battery life differ depending on the nature and driving style of the driver. However, with BMW EfficientDynamics

and different driving models, such as eDrive, you will always get the optimum combination of responsiveness and fuel consumption. On short trips up to 66 Kilometers, the BMW Plug-in Hybrid are powered completely by their electric engines; on longer trips, fuel consumption varies depending on the model type and total distance travelled. The BMW Plug-in Hybrid range represents a leap in modern mobility, and delivers tomorrowâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s driving experience, today. Visit Muscats Motors to discover the PHEV models or call us on 2326 4583/4509.

Reforming the building and construction industry

hilst carrying on with its work to set up the Malta Construction and Building Authority, the Ministry for Transport, Infrastructure and Capital Projects launched also a Building and Construction Reform which has been positively welcomed by the various stakeholders. The minister for transport, infrastructure and capital projects, Dr Ian Borg shared with us the objectives of the reform and how it will ensure a more regulated industry.

Dr Ian Borg Ministry for Transport, Infrastructure and Capital Projects

What are the main objectives of the building and construction reform? It is evident that the building and construction industry has gained considerable momentum in our country, with several projects of different magnitudes being implemented. This industry is directly and indirectly contributing towards our economy and therefore it is imperative that the framework within which such industry operates is well regulated with clear and specific guidelines for all those who may be involved in its course of work, amongst other objectives. Last year the government embarked on the setting up of the Malta Construction and Building Authority (MCBA). This exercise is a very elaborate one and thus sufficient time is needed to ensure that each element is handled in a comprehensive manner. In the meantime, the industry had to continue progressing with its work and unfortunately over a period of time we witnessed 3 isolated incidents on properties adjoining construction sites. It was therefore evident that whilst work on the setting up of the MCBA had to continue, the Government and all relevant stakeholders had to take action to address those realities that were not to

be tolerated. So, in July we launched a new legal notice mainly aiming to clearly demarcate the roles and responsibilities of the different stakeholders whilst giving a thumbs up to different processes that aim to ensure that third parties can easily access documents such as method statements on demolition and excavation works for example. This has not only created more transparency in the processes but is also allowing those that live near building and construction sites to review the modus operandi of any works and appeal any methods which are deemed unsafe for their adjoining property.

Which key areas does such reform address? The reform is founded on three key principles namely safety, responsibility and transparency. The residents of properties neighbouring construction sites will now be able to access online information about the proposed method of works, as well as having peace of mind with the knowledge that a site technical officer will be ensuring that the contractor is following the method

A telier proposed. The new procedures also ensure that all those involved in a particular project – be it the contractor, the architect, the mason or the developer – each will shoulder their responsibilities as envisaged by law. While the masons’ registry was updated over the reform period with masons coming forward to regulate their license, work on the registration of contractors has started and is proceeding with a steady pace. The government has also welcomed on board the engineering profession with engineers graduating from MCAST and the University of Malta having the opportunity to work as site technical officers, together with the architect profession.

What role will the Malta Construction and Building Authority have? The local building and construction industry has, over many years, been regulated by different policies resulting in a piecemeal approach. For example, whilst the Planning Authority has over the years developed policies to regulate the buildings under construction and those undergoing major modifications or renovation, the Building Regulation Office serves a regulatory function, whereas the Building Industry Consultative Council accredits skills in this industry. This government wants to embark on a major overhaul of the current framework. It is our aim to consolidate the different regulatory entities related to the building and construction industry. We want to enhance the value of each of these authorities into one single body that appropriately regulates the industry. Our vision rests on having an industry of quality that contributes towards a strong economy. Thus, one of the important functions of the Malta Construction and Building Authority is to also regulate the performance of the building throughout its lifetime ensuring that it meets safety standards. This would mean that investors, buyers and users have the peace of mind that they are purchasing or living in a structurally sound building. We need to set and raise standards for buildings, developing systems that employ the latest techniques, not only those relating to energy performance but also incorporating suitable methods that are appropriate for our

climate and cityscapes, whilst ensuring that we respect our country’s architectural heritage. It is thus the government’s aim to continue working with all stakeholders to finally allow the setting up of this authority that will hold such relevant and valuable responsibilities. So, whilst the government will hold its promise of providing the right legal and regulatory framework, we remain adamant to continue working towards an industry that is not only sustainable but equally qualitative. A register will be published by the Building Regulation Office, of persons who are competent to provide the services of a Site Technical Officer. Why? As I said earlier, works particularly demolition and excavation, need to be monitored by a competent person, that is to say a site technical officer. It is therefore important that a site technical officer registry is made available to the public as we recently did in the case of masons. This will clearly assist contractors in search of such services. Additionally, it also pays the industry to have such information available to the public in the name of transparency.

How will such reforms ensure safety, responsibility and transparency? Thanks to these reforms, the government and stakeholders have had the maximum opportunity to discuss, debate and come up with constructive ideas with the main aim of increasing safety and transparency within the industry whilst clearly delineating responsibilities. The government is willing to work with any stakeholder who shares the same objectives. It is important that this industry regains the trust of the public because at the end of the day it remains a major contributor to the country’s economy – but we need to ensure that this industry grows sustainably. Ultimately, it is about being assured that the dwellings in which we live are safe, because all those involved in their construction have appropriately used their skills and competencies to deliver a high-quality product. It is about ensuring that the rights of neighbours of building and construction sites are being respected, about approaching and handling this industry with the utmost diligence and care.

A telier

Photo credit: Chris Luker

A telier

Every room, a story Interview with Ann Wolf, by Matthew Charles Zammit

hic, classic and with an eye for detail is a proper way to describe the style of internationally-renowned Interior Designer Ann Wolf. She shared with Atelier her experience of working with Ralph Lauren, and on why design should accommodate not just the building, but the human body as well.

What attracted you first to the world of interior design? I always loved interiors from a very young age. Honestly, I only did what most people do when they find out they have an aptitude for something, which is basically, do their hardest to make a living out of your passion. Personally, I discovered that I had an aptitude for interior design, and I went for it. I started first by designing my own house in Houston, as well as another family home that I have in Colorado. Eventually, enough people saw what I was doing, that I started being asked by different people to help them with their own houses. And now, my passion has become an occupation.

How would you describe your personal aesthetic? I live in a very traditional house, but a traditional style which is updated. I have a number of antiques, most of them family heirlooms, which I then integrated into my decor. My personal aesthetic is more traditional, but obviously certain trends within the design world is going more towards the contemporary route. I obviously have been tasked for a more contemporary style in the rooms I design for different clients, but my version of contemporary houses have a mixture of colour, character and comfort. I would say that they are more organically-inspired modern houses, as opposed towards a colder version of modern houses.

Photo credit: Chris Luker

When you say cold modern houses, do you refer towards a tendency of having monochromatic interiors, or is it something else? Not exactly. I feel that sometimes modern houses can be less concerned with being comfortable for the owner, and more concerned with adjusting aesthetic lines within the room itself. It has to be a balancing act, but I feel that in certain projects, the floor plan can be constructed more towards accommodating the architecture of the room, as opposed to accomodating the human body.

What about your sources of inspiration for work? What helps you develop your ideas for your clients? Well, part and parcel of any interior designer’s work repertoire is shopping. And that’s true in my case as well: I do travel around the world, and look for different antiques shops in cities like London, Paris and others in the States as well. The markets and the antique shops in cities like these are a huge source of inspiration for me. I also like to shop domestically. Next week I’m going to visit Maine, New Hampshire and Massachusetts, as I’ll be attending a whole series of Americana fairs being organised in these states. I’ll surely pick up a lot of accessories, maybe some furniture there, which will definitely come of good use for my projects. I am also heavily inspired by the work of other designers: I have a library of other designers in my office, which I constantly make reference to in case I need a more impromptu source of inspiration.

I read you worked with Ralph Lauren. How did such an experience influence your career? I was part of a design team that worked on a line of women’s clothing, and we had regular meetings with Ralph, for which all of us needed to be very prepared when presenting our concepts for that season’s line. I did a lot of fabric designs, and I had to look for different buttons and trims to be used in the new projects, but mainly, my job was to produce the pile of paperwork which related to each garment, and specify how each garment should be made. What size of buttons to be used, what type of fabric should the clothes be made

Photo credit: Reed Davis of… all the details. Basically, it was the high-end fashion design’s world of ordering a purchase order. Having said that, I think all of this prepared me in a way for a lot of the work that goes as an interior designer. As a person, you have to be extremely organised, and you need to be able to tell a story within your creation. When I was in these design meetings, we were told to create and tell a story about what the concept was. Same thing when I talk to clients: You want the interior design to be an external reflection and retelling of the story that the owner wants to tell. Each room can be a different chapter. All in all, working with Ralph was incredibly hard work. We worked all day, between the fashion shows, and the come-around, but this experience is one I cherish, because it truly taught me how to give 100% in everything, especially from a creative stand-point.

What lies behind your obsession for ceramics and pottery? There’s so much beautiful ceramic, pottery and china out there, from so many different eras. Basically, if you were an academic studying these types of ceramics, you can get a first-hand glimpse of the sheer majority of human history and culture. The domestic arts produced during these different timelines, all tell a different first-hand story. I was always exposed to ceramics. My husband’s family are collectors of chinese porcelain, which is incredible in itself. I think that ceramics and pottery can be a very important decorative element in any home, whether it is on a table-top, in a bookcase, in a kitchen… any piece can be a significant addition to any room.

A telier How does summer fit into your creative mind? What style would you associate with this time of year? Summer is the time where I don’t work as hard as I do during the rest of the year. It’s really a time to recharge, to recover from the burnout of the rest of the year. Summer reinvigorates the soul. It can inherently be so inspiring to different people, and such an emotional uplift can do wonders for your personal creativity. I personally associate Summer with my birthday, but as well with the days off, especially for my kids when they used to enjoy the summer holidays from school. Ironically enough, the days straight after are usually the most hectic. Most schools take students back in August, and that’s when most of my clients start calling me to embark on new projects while their own kids are away.

What projects are you working on currently? And what's next in the pipeline? A fun project that I’m currently working on is the renovation and redecoration of a 1950’s beach house, on the coastline in California near Santa Barbara. We’re aiming to use an updated aesthetic of the 1950’s modern, casual era in which the beach shack was originally built. Other than that, I’m working on a number of new construction projects in Houston, Texas. Usually, I get involved in these projects very early on, and the architects start looking for interior designers on the onset while they’re still working on the interior space of their property. This project in itself will take three or four years to complete, so you can say that I’m in the long-haul for this one. I’ve also got a few other renovations in Houston, but I would love to do some more work elsewhere, and hopefully in the near future, the opportunity will come beckoning.

MilĂš by mimi, Mdina Road, Attard. Tel:2143 5412 Monday to Friday: 9.00hrs - 13.00hrs & 16.00hrs - 19.30hrs, Saturday from 9.30hrs - 13.00hrs Online gallery:

facebook.com/Milubymimi

www.milubymimi.com

@Milubymimi

2576 2576

www.fexserv.com

Terms and Conditions Apply

Your travel money will go further with zero commission and thanks to our free buy back guarantee, upon your return you can exchange any unused currency notes at the original exchange rate within 30 days from date of purchase.

COMPANY HISTORY Inofin projects has established itself as a reputable construction and finishes organisation in malta, thanks to its managing director with backing of 25 years experience in this industry, and thanks also to it's clients who during these years have entrusted inofin projects organisation with their projects.

WHO WE ARE? inofin project is a leading contracting organisations. Our diverse portfolio of projects not only have access to a vast array of services under one roof, but they also benefit from an unparalleled passion for details and commitment to deliver the highest specification. Our organisation offers variety of services to meet your projects needs, to take you from collaborating meetings to it's final finishes and beyond. We believe that every project is unique and can customize our approach to fit your particular project. While we are at the forefront of and specialize in design-build, we are very familiar with number of delivering methods and are confident we can find the process that will best help you meet your goals.

OUR SERVICES Delivering projects that fulfill and exceed the owners expectations is a process that starts during the conceptual stage with a collaborative team from design through construction up to finishes as we did in one of our projects. We are in the final walkthrough of a town house in sliema that we started of demolishing of the existing roof following construction of additional floor and turnkey on finishes to the clients requirements as per images below.

A telier

Foundation for Social Welfare Services:

We care

t the Foundation for Social Welfare Services (FSWS), our employees are fundamental to our success and instrumental in achieving our goals. Our Agencies are committed in providing quality services to those individuals who are going through a rough stage in life or in need. A knowledgeable, learning-orientated workforce contributes towards this endeavour. FSWS employs over 750 employees and the Corporate Human Resources Department is responsi-ble and accountable to provide HR related services across the board. This office has various func-tions, ranging from employee wellbeing, engagement, retention, training and development. Other duties include rewards and recognitions, industrial relations, grievance handling, legal procedures and employee performance appraisals. In addition, this office is also accountable for effective design-ing and implementation of policies, procedures and ensure their implementation thereof. We strive to achieve our set objectives by equipping persons working with children, young people, adults and families experiencing difficulties or generally in need. All this is achieved through

compe-tent professionals who retain well-found necessary skills and expertise which are mandatory to reach the Foundationâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s pre-set goals. FSWS also offers placement opportunities for students ranging from various professions and aca-demic background. At FSWS we also offer continuous professional development (CPD) for all war-ranted professionals as well as continuous training opportunities both local as well as overseas for warranted and non-warranted employees. The HR department is always on the lookout for qualified professional and or experienced individuals to join our dynamic and highly professional teams. Our conditions of employment are very attractive and competitive. Individuals who are interested to join our professional and dynamic team are to visit our website www.fsws.gov.mt.

eSkills eSkills Malta Foundation 5 - 20 OCTOBER 2019

< What is EU Code Week? > EU Code Weeek celebrates creativity, problem solving and collaboration through coding and other tech activities.

“Anyone can learn to code!”

IOUS V E R P O N CODING E NC EXPERIE RY NECESSA

@codeEUMalta

@codeWeekEU @codeEU

A telier

EU Code Week 2019

he seventh edition of EU Code Week will take place 5th-20th October 2019.

Ahead of this, teachers, trainers and activity organisers will get a chance to use new training opportunities and learning resources to reach more schoolchildren in the EU and Western Balkans. In 2019, EU Code Week

will significantly extend the support for activity organisers. To prepare for the peak of the campaign from 5 – 20 October 2019, trainers, teachers and coding enthusiasts will get new learning materials, lesson plans and online training to make their coding classes more engaging and more fun. EU Code Week is based on a growing network of around 80 volunteer national ambassadors, 42 national education ministry coordinators, and 280 leading teachers. They have been key contributors to the success of Code Week 2018, which saw the participation of more than 10% of schools across the EU and Western Balkans and reached over 2.7 million participants in nearly 44 000 events. EU Code Week 2018, proved to be the most successful Code Week to date with more than 42,000 activities registered on the map. For Malta this also proved to be an outstanding year. Malta for the second consecutive year, ranked first from the participating 72 countries with the most events per capita. This success would not have been possible without the collaboration of an outstanding number of collaborators namely MCAST, University of Malta, Middlesex University Malta, EasyPeasy, Robocoach, Central Public Library, Foundation for IT Accessibility (FITA), MCA, Esplora, Secretariat for Catholic Education and the Ministry of Education and Employment Directorate for Digital Literacy.

The European Commission supports EU Code Week, as part of its strategy for a Digital Single Market. In the Digital Education Action Plan the Commission especially encourages schools to join the initiative. The goal is to reach 50% of all schools in Europe by 2020. Malta is one of the few countries that has reached and superseded this target. The total number of Public, Church and Independent schools who took part in the 2018 Code Week was of 192 with the involvement of approximately 6,000 teachers and 28,300 students. This means that 82% of all Maltese schools have participated with over 186 coding events! This year the Foundation will be launching EU Code Week on 1st August 2019. The Foundation is constantly looking for new collaborators for the EU Code Week. Any body interested or for more information on EU Code Week and planned activities in 2019 please contact Bernadette Zerafa Malta’s EU Code week Ambassador on bernadette.a.zerafa@gov. mt or the eSkills Malta Foundation on info.eskills@ eskills.org.mt Bernadette Zerafa Manager – eSkills Malta Foundation

FA S H I O N

Fashion is not just beauty, it's about good attitude. You have to believe in yourself and be strong. Adriana Lima

Credit photo: Matthew B Spiteri for Jason Grech - 2019 Collection. Showcased tonight Malta Fashion Week & Fashion Awards Assisted by Justin Ciappara Shot in Budapest MUA Nora Brown Model Frustina

A TOUCH OF

GLAMOUR Interview with Jason Grech, Fashion Designer

A telier

old, colourful, eccentric and luxurious, Jason Grech's personalityrich clothing isn't for those who want to go unnoticed. Every dress is a statement and fits for every woman who wants to feel special. The Australian - Maltese fashion designer is a genius who with thread and a needle turns fabric into pure work of art. His couture has graced catwalks, fashion magazine covers and many a brideâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s special day, becoming one of the best designers right now. It is with no surprise that plenty of women want to be seen in his designs and is considered by many as one of the best talents in fashion industry.

How did it all start? It started with a relationship breakup. I was at university studying accounting and had my heart broken. My parents were holidaying in Malta at the time so I decide to leave reality in Melbourne to deal with my heartbreak. My plans were to stay in Malta for a year but I returned home after a few months for a fashion institute interview which I

applied for a few weeks earlier. I had always been interested in fashion but was oblivious to it being a profession. In 2003, you launched your own label, JASONGRECH. What encouraged you to take such a bold decision? I had worked for my employer for six years and

A telier

felt that there was a gap in my heart and the market for party wear. I had just completed a personal development course and discovered that I was playing life safe and not taking any risks. I was a spectator in the audience rather than the players on the court so I changed that. It was the right decision at the time which was both exciting and stressful.

How would you define your style? My style has changed through the years but it has remained luxurious. I am a fan of a woman shape so I enhance it as much as possible. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s strong, stylish and fresh. What inspires me most is risk so I take them when designing because itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s what sets me apart from the pack. I am very thankful that the audience and the consumer support me.

What is your connection with Malta? I grew up holidaying in Malta every alternative year for many years with my parents. My family is Maltese and I am the only one of my siblings (there are eleven of us) born in Australia. We spoke in Maltese at home (unless someone who could not understand the language was present), we went to Maltese festas, ate Maltese food so my childhood was very much like every other child who grew up in Malta, it was just in a different country. My grandfather is Kav. Maestro Guzeppi Busuttil who wrote 'Tal-Qalba’ so I grew up going to many festas in Australia with my family who are very proud to be Maltese. I didn’t feel much of a connection with Malta when I was younger but I certainly felt the cultural magnetic pull when I visited and exhibited at Malta Fashion Week in 2018. It was unbelievably strong, so much so that I felt that Malta was my home and it will forever live in my heart. I have visited a few times since and will continue to do so.

How does Malta fit in your designs? St. John’s Co-Cathedral left me speechless when I visited in 2018. I was taken a back by its beauty and I couldn’t sleep after my first visit and returned a few days later to absorb more of it. It inspired my SS18 Knights of St.John collection which has been a career highlight. The Maltese cross, my initials and the Scorpion (which comes from the Grech family crest) now make up the JASONGRECH monogram.

What personality must a woman have to wear a JASONGRECH dress? A woman does not have to have anything to wear a JASONGRECH dress other than beauty which all women have. I hope that my dresses give a woman more confidence in her beauty and celebrate their shape.

You also recently noted that the best part of being a fashion designer is "the ability to turn a 2D drawing into a 3D form that fits the body and enhances its shape." Why? Because I turn a piece of flat fabric into a piece of clothing that shapes and enhances the body. It starts with a drawing which is drafted into a pattern. Fabric is cut and constructed to a piece of clothing.

A fashion critic noted that you "manage to capture the essence of what every bride is looking for: a gown which feels personal – which feels hers – while, at the same time, elevating her shape and style." To what extent do you agree? I am very happy to agree with all the above, it was a beautiful insight.

Any tips for what to wear this summer? Wear things that suit your body shape and take risks and be different to everyone else. We live in a world where we think we are different yet most of us wear the same thing as everyone else because it makes us feel comfortable and fit into a group yet we’re all looking like clones. Spoil yourself and get something made that fits you well rather than purchasing many fast fashion items (which end up as land fill).

What's next for JASONGRECH? I will exhibit my new #16 collection at Melbourne Fashion Week on September 5th and we’re moving into new global markets with some exciting things up my sleeve.

A telier

Dancing into their Future

Although Seed Dance Studios is one of Malta’s newest performing arts schools, it is already one of the highest achieving.

ounded by artistic director Marisha Bonnici, Seed trains young dancers for a professional dance career. The school has already been the first in Malta to hold Street Jazz ISTD and American Ballet Theatre examinations and is also home to one of only ten Royal Ballet International Scholars worldwide.

“Seed Dance Studios nurtures students on their dance journey both locally and internationally,” Marisha explains. “We encourage these young dancers to dream, and to work hard in order to turn that dream into a reality.” The school’s unique approach has secured it a place in the hearts of all who attend. Young student Ella Pace says, “To me, Seed is very special. I love the teachers, and dancing on the stage.” Ella’s sister Ida agrees. “Seed feels like a second home. The teachers really push you to try your best, and they give you dance opportunities abroad.” These sentiments are echoed by Sofia Delia, who has been attending Seed since she was just three years old. “Here I am taught the proper fundamentals of dance, and I would not be the dancer I am without it. I would never have imagined that I would be performing in global

dance competitions or dancing in the Royal Albert Hall. There are always new challenges for us to conquer, and we are all one big family.” The mother of Alex and Milly Bartolo has also noticed how much they enjoy attending. “Alex loves the teaching and opportunities the school offers, while Milly excels in the masterclasses under Seed’s constant encouragement.” Seed has been the springboard for many alumni to pursue dance careers, through moving onto international vocational training at notable academies such as the Royal Ballet School and Rambert School of Ballet and Contemporary. More information may be found by visiting the Seed Dance Studios Facebook page at www. facebook.com/pg/Seedancestudios/.

Toshiba inverter Air conditioning 13,000 BTU

â&#x201A;Ź575.00 excluding installation * terms & conditions apply.

up on the

catwalk Interview with Katrina Pavia, Model

T 62

hink about a pair of deep green eyes, add to them a pinch of beauty, a dose of class, a few drops of charm and a pinch of mystery. Mix them all together and you will quickly understand why Katrina Pavia, 2019 Malta Fashion Awards Photo Model of the Year winner is such a hot name in the local fashion industry. Indeed Katrina, is a beauty who walks down the catwalk with a sense of class and boldness that makes every dress she wears stand out of the crowd. It is by no coincidence that the Gozitan model's striking eyes and perfect figure grace all local fashion and lifestyle magazines. Katrina shared with Atelier her passion for modelling, her views on the industry and what she has in store for the future.

A telier

Credit photo: Matthew B Spiteri

Credit photo: Kurt Paris

I recently read you started modelling and drama lessons at the age of 13 against your will. At what point did you have a change of heart on the catwalk? That is correct; I never really wanted to do any of that....I was too shy. It was at the age of 17 when I finally realised that I was on to something very important to me. I had won every beauty competition I had competed in. I was being asked to model in lots of fashion shows and to pose for photo shoots for front cover magazines. The clinch came when I also realised that I was actually enjoying every moment and when an opportunity came along I would get super excited and after every show I would remain with a good vibe. I used to watch TV Moda / Fashion TV and the beauty of it all used to amaze me. When I am modelling I feel complete. Normally I am a rather fidgety person and am not graced with a patient nature; however when modelling I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t mind the waiting or the freezing or the melting conditions we have to go through during photo shoots....when you are passionate about what you are doing you can stand anything!

What does a model's life look like? This is a good question especially when asked to a model locally or abroad. This is because it depends on what level of modelling we are talking about. To me, locally one cannot really have a professional model's life for obvious reasons and due to the nature of our fashion industry. Having said that, it is a compelling life because it gets you to know a variety of people with the same passion.

Describe a model’s life. One needs to dedicate at least one hour training every day and diets need to be carefully monitored. Having a full time ‘normal’ job is not really possible as one is expected to drop everything and go for photo shoots at very short notice...at times not even 24 hour notice is given! It ends up being very costly as beauty treatments are not really getting any cheaper and good quality clothes are a must... not to mention designer outfits! To be a Model, one has to look and dress like one, especially when attending events with other models! As regards abroad, travelling is from one’s own pocket and one can spend whole days casting and has to be prepared for a lot of rejections like: ‘ No, not what we had in mind, thank you, bye’!

Which five words would your friends use to describe you? Well I actually had to ask them and they sent me a whole list... I got back to them and said ‘listen..I just wanted 5’ ... so I had to short list the ones that were mentioned most and am going to mention more: Non-judgemental, disciplined, humorous, good listener, down to earth, humble, caring, kind, nature lover.

Has the perception of the modelling industry changed over time? Yes! In the 90's only top models like Claudia Schiffer, Stephanie Seymour, Christa Turlington used to be on the front covers of Vogue and on other magazines, then in the millennium things changed drastically. It was and still is the era of celebrities like actors and now focusing more on singers and TV presenters. Before, models had to be of a pre-defined body structure and of a certain weight but now they are getting more liberal. The only thing that never changes in the model industry is the expectation of all the other players as regards the disposition of the model in question. If one is too difficult to work with, forget it!

Photo credit: Kurt Paris Ritenne Zammit's Patrion Saints Collection

What do you do to stay in shape? I am one of those lucky girls that have a fast metabolism and good genes. I used to enter competitions without ever training. But at the age of 22 my physique changed and I started training once a week or whenever I felt like. I had done a Health and Fitness course so when I exercise alone I know I am doing it as it should be. I also always keep in mind that the normal size of the stomach is the same size as one’s fist; so I am careful not to overdo my helpings. A good balance of a variety of food intake is the key. Water is the best to drink and to stay hydrated. I do make it a point to take vitamin C on a daily basis.

What is your favourite season? Summer! Sun, sea, swimming, snorkeling, bars, going out every night, lunches by the sea and eating delicious sea food and spending all day on a sandy beach being sun kissed (and applying sun protection every now and then) and swimming and then in the evening a shower ... a summer dress and a drink.

A telier

Tell us about your recent experience in Stockholm? It all started from Marbella onstage casting July 2018 to be chosen for Marbella Fashion Week 2018/19 in October. This designer really liked me and was one of the casting jury and also wanted me to partake in her show in Stockholm the following July. One experience leads to another! In one show we models had to change into 9 different outfits and to go backstage meant going up 2 flights of stairs and we literally had to run up and down with heels and be on time for the next round. It was another experience for me. If I was able to do that well I’ll be able to do everything!!!

Do you have any advice for those who want to start modelling? It is quite a tough world! New models crop up every day from all over the world! You need to have a very strong character. People will enjoy telling you your flaws in the face and you have to get used to it. Personally, I do not believe that people should be judged by their appearance, but that’s the way it is. You need to have a lot of patience. Be open to opportunities, always. Never Give Up!

What's next for you? I have just came from a beauty competition Miss Fashion TV Europe, in Romania, thanks to Adrian J Mizzi for introducing it to me, and won the title Miss Cosmetics. In September I shall be taking part in New York Fashion Week to showcase Charles and Ron’s new collection. I will then be going to Milan and Paris to be part of the respective Fashion Week. In October/November I plan to move to Milan hopefully to achieve my long-time dream.

Credit photo: Matthew B Spiteri

Model : Justina Vai Noticed Model Management

Style by Rosemarie Abela Hair by Neville Roman Zammit Makeup by Elaine Galea Venere

That Magic Touch Interview with Matthew B Spiteri, Photographer

harp, bold, colourful, beautiful and with an incredible dose of detail which makes his work stand out of the crowd. That is the proper way to describe the work of the three times in a row winner of the Best Malta Fashion Photographer Awards, Matthew B Spiteri. Every shot is a statement that exalts a specific moment in time irrespective of whether it is a wedding, a fashion show or a photoshoot. Indeed, Matthew is a genius with

an undisputed flair that makes him one of the best talents in the local photographic industry. Matthew shared with Atelier his journey in the photographic world, his style and his projects in the pipeline.

How did it all start? A few years down the line, it never never crossed my mind that photography would be something so important in my life. When cameras on phones were introduced, I was always looking a good shot. Friends and people in the industry often positively commented on my flair for photography yet never did I consider photography as my professional route. It is interesting to note that my grandfather, Joseph, was a very good photographer and possibly that is where my flair for photography originates.I bought my first simple dslr camera with the intention to take better pics of my kids. Nothing more, nothing less. Yet at one point in my life, something deep down inside me said I should take my relationship with photography a step further. From that point onwards I never looked back. I took the advice of a friend and I applied for an introductory course with Kevin Casha. How would you describe your work to someone who has never seen it? Although I love monochromatic images I would describe my style as edgy, colourful and with a strong composition.

What does photography mean to you? It offers me artistic freedom. It also offers me the possibility to learn to work with others, share ideas and embrace other team members' talents. It also keeps you on your toes as trends are always changing and so does the style of photography . What does fashion mean to you from a photographic point of view? What makes a great fashion photograph? This is a very subjective question . Fashion photography is one of those niches that escapes strict definition and often, it is free from creative restriction.You can shoot whatever you want and however you want, as long as your shot tells a story. It is true that clothes, accessories, and makeup form a huge part of the story, but at the end of the day you are providing a glimpse into an imagined world through your unique perspective. Exploration and experimentation are crucial elements in fashion photography. The most important part of fashion photography is how you translate a story visually, and how you apply your own creative style to a certain idea and concept. Good planning is essential . I can't stress how important it is to have a super team to help you achieve such objectives.

A telier

What attracts your photographic lens in summer? I am a big fan of mixing human element with scenery and landscape in my work . I am always on the hunt for new locations . We are lucky that in Malta we have beautiful sunrise and sunsets so mainly you will find me there chasing beautiful warm lights all around the islands. I love shooting in studio but that is minimal in the summer.

What projects are you working on now? I am currently working closely with some publications over seas together with many local ones that always trust me with their editorial sections and cover. I thank all for that . I am also planning on an artic exhibition , something totally different to what we are used to see from my end. I am also working on my wedding photography business which is booming right now . I have so many ideas and plans. My mind is always on overdrive.

Model : Claire Ciantar Supernova Model Management for Ivory & Co Malta

Hair by Dominic Bartolo Jr Makeup by Sandy De Gaetano

Many consider you as one of the hottest young fashion photographers in Malta. What advice do you have for the next generation of photographers? Get off your seats and shoot . Experiment and follow your imagination. Do not be afraid to make mistakes, it is the only way you can grow. You never know enough and accept constructive criticism. Trust in your vision but also embrace the vision of your team mates. Be ambitious but not presumptuous. Make every project a unique experience and treat it as your breakthrough .

A Clear Vision For Malta Ministry For Tourism The Tourism sector is a very important sector that contributes around one third of Malta’s economy. That is why the Ministry for Tourism is working on various aspects, including the improvement of the tourism product, capital projects and infrastructure, the social housing, aviation, and film industry. Main Measures and Achievements

• Air Malta registers an operating profit after decades of making losses. • Air Malta with a growth strategy: A fleet of larger aircraft and increased connectivity through the • • • • •

addition of several new routes to and from Malta. Malta registers a further increase in the number of tourists in 2018: Approximately 2,600,000 tourists visited our country. Infrastructure projects in Valletta, Floriana, Msida and Ta’ Xbiex, Birżebbugia and Marsaxlokk amongst others. More events throughout the year: an enhanced touristic calendar of events for all ages and genres. More routes to and from our country: Malta International Airport is more connected to Europe than Heathrow Airport. Several projects on social issues amounting to more than €65 million investment.

Air Malta back on its feet

• • • • 74

For the first time in decades, Air Malta registered an operating profit. This growth is a result of the growth strategy that has adopted this Government, where Air Malta carried the largest number of passengers this year when compared with previous years. As part of its growth strategy, Air Malta increased its fleet by adding two new aircraft within its fleet, MINISTERU GĦAT-TURIŻMU including the recent addition of the Airbus A320 NEO, which is more energy efficient and more noise friendly. Air Malta has added a number of new routes in different countries across Europe and around the Mediterranean. Air Malta launches its new high-quality business class product.

MINISTRY FOR TOURISM

Positive Numbers The Government’s strategy for the Tourism sector continued to bear fruit as once again Malta registered growth in every aspect.

• In 2018, the amount of tourists in Malta amounted to more than 2,600,000 - an increase of 14.3% on the number of tourists who visited our country in 2017. • In 2018, the tourist expenditure amounted to 2.1 billion euros - an increase of 8% on spending in 2017 • Malta with the third largest growth in the tourism sector from all the EU countries. • Over 6,800,000 million in passenger movements from Malta International Airport - an increase of 13.2% over the number of passengers recorded in 2017

Events throughout the year We continued working on introducing new events while offering more variety for both tourists who visit our country and for locals.

• For the first time in Malta, the theatre company Cirque Du Soleil which has worldwide fame will be holding productions in Malta for two months.

• This year, for the first time, the Nickelodeon Treasure Hunt was held in Malta, attracting a number of families and children from across Europe. • We continued to strengthen the events in our country: Events like Isle of MTV, Lost & Fund, Summerdaze Malta,

Glitch, World Club Dome Malta, Abode on the Rock, amongst other festivals which attracted thousands of tourists to our shores.

Infrastructural projects

• As a result of the Grand Harbour Regeneration Corporation’s hard work, the Triton Square, an area known as • • • • •

Biskuttin, and Ġnien Laparelli projects were completed. Work is ongoing on the lower side of Valletta, with regeneration projects on the Valletta bastions, area of Marsamxett Harbour and Valletta social housing amongst others. This amounts to a total investment of €24 million, co-financed by European Union funds. A proposed investment in Floriana of €3.5 million in the regeneration of the Mall Gardens with a completely new design. Works were completed in Ġnien Duminku Mintoff: an investment of €1 million that resulted in an extensive renovation with an entirely new design. Launched the Considerate Construction Scheme to improve the image of the construction industry in the development of sites and implementation of projects. Launched a massive project of afforestation in Bengħajsa, Birżebbuġa.

A telier

Style in the

Sun Interview with Carolina Carneiro Batista, owner of Paixão Fruit

ibrant colours, beautiful prints and stylish designs come together to create the hot Paixão Fruit swimwear collection. Every piece holds a little bit of Carol Zinha's colourful mind and philosophy. Paixão Fruit, is based on an ethos that every woman deserves to be beautiful in her swimwear irrespective of her size, complexion and character. Indeed, Carol's swimwear collection is unique and high-end, yet comfortable and well-fitting. With each collection, Paixão Fruit looks towards unusual colours, rich textures and decorative features to create a swimwear that stands out of the crowd. In her interview with Atelier, Carol looks back on her path and presents her dreams.

Tell us about Paixão Fruit Paixão Fruit was founded 4 months ago by myself thus it is a relatively new brand. In March of 2019, I travelled to Brasil ( I am Brazilian, but have been living in Malta for the past 6 years) in order to find some inspiration and passion. I visited many fairs and factories to identify the best producers of swimsuits. I discovered that there are areas in Brasil were entire cities live from their handcraft and when they invite you to their 'factories' you find yourself in their homes, where most of the family members work. I was impressed by the quality of their work and products. From that moment onwards, it was clear to me that my next step would be to create a beachwear line. I truly admire handcraft and would wear every piece I am selling myself.

How does the brand stand out of the crowd? I believe that what really stands out are the colours and the unique designs. This is a colourful shop and certainly not for shy people, because you will stand out of the crowd on the beach if you wear one of my pieces. It is not a mass production brand. In fact, every collection is limited in the number of pieces produced. In this way we can continue creating and searching for new ideas and designs. The production chain is clean and adheres to work ethics. There is no child work or slave-like conditions in the factories I collaborate with. I visit them regularly and stay in touch with them at least once a week.

Traditional, Timeless Traditional, Timeless & Elegance & Elegance

We Transform Old Floors into Works of Art! We Transform Old Floors into Works of Art! Malta Tiles: Open Mon-Fri 8am to 4.30pm, Sat 8am to 11.30am

Workshop: Kalkara tal-Gir Alley, Triq il-Karmnu, Fgura T: 7989 6534 E: info@maltatiles.com Malta Tiles: Open Mon-Fri 8am to 4.30pm, Sat 8am to 11.30am

A telier

What are the latest swimwear trends this year? Paixão Fruit does not follow any trends. It has it's own unique style. Nevertheless, I believe that our style was well accepted so far.

Does your line cater for all women’s shapes and sizes? Paixão Fruit tries to cover fit the various shapes of women that visit my outlet, but there is always something you have not thought about. Women come in different shapes and only 1-5% of the women have the body that is shown on the magazine. The other 95-99% come in all sizes and shapes. It is impossible to cover them all, but we will try and that's the long term goal. We try with every collection we produce to cater better for the needs of our market.

What should a woman look out for when choosing swimwear? First of all she should feel wonderful in it. That is a key priority. Moreover, there are some other rules when it comes to choosing a swimwear, namely to identify your body type, highlight your most beautiful area according to your body type. It should stand out and wear your favourite colour and don't be ashamed of your curves.

ÂŽ

The new detergents awareness

BIODETERGENZA

BIO

How much do you know about detergents awareness?

floor cleaner

in three soft scents and one frangrance-free

laundry detergent

ECO floor cleaner in six intense scents

multipurpose sanitizer for all hard surfaces

odour eliminator

super concentrated, for all surfaces and tissues

scratchproof repellent

for hand washed laundry and washing machine with extract of olive oil

for cats

bowl detergent

odour eliminator for litters

detergent for kennels, leashes, collars

indoor deterrent

fragrance-free

Imported by

insect repellent

BORG CARDONA & CO LTD ELTEX DR ZAMMIT STR 1434 - BALZAN - MALTA ML10189321

for cats and dogs

outdoor deterrent for cats and dogs

FRAGRANCE

FREE

Certified products for home and pets NEST product line was created to address most discerning consumersâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; growing need for functional hygiene and cleaning products that are safe for their pets and environmentally sustainable too. Its peculiar mildness and the use of sustainable and natural raw materials make the whole NEST line suitable to clean rooms and accessories that are in contact with children too. To reach this aim, all formulations of NEST products are hypoallergenic and, in case, the fragrances used are hypoallergenic too. Besides, colouring agents are food colours. We chose that all our products are analysed by entitled external bodies, that also certified our organic and environmentally-friendly products and the absence of raw materials of animal origin in the whole line. In order to ensure transparency, not only do our products display their chemical composition, but the INCI too, that is to say the whole list of the ingredients that compose the formulation.

Photos credit - Matthew B Spiteri

A telier

A matter of style Interview with Mary Grace Pisani, Fashion Designer at Cessani

mart, graceful, good looking and with that sense of class from head to toe is my first impression when I come across Mary Grace Pisani, fashion designer and owner of the famous brand Cessani. Yet, when she takes me through her journey in the world of fashion, I quickly realise there is more to her. Mary Grace turns out to be a focused and very determined person with such a colourful mind packed with concepts that blow your mind. She is a tolerant person yet never dare take her patience as a weakness. Her philosophy is so avant garde and her work is a statement. Her designs include unconventional marriages which bring together latest trends in the world of fashion with local elements which make her work so different, unique and sought after. Whether it is in an eight pointed cross or a famous local print, her collections are simply stunning. Every touch she adds to her designs turns fine fabrics into something wow. Her work truly plays on a very fine line which distinguishes what is defined as logical from what may be regarded as extravagant, nonconformist, and unique.

A telier

A mother of three - Luke, Lounelle and Miguel Mary Grace grew an interest in the world of fashion from a very young age watching her mum sewing, her sister turning fabric into a garment that she wore on the very same day and her father working as pastry chef. They all in some way triggered a creative mind and piqued her curiosity on how a pencil could turn her imagination into an explosion of colourful twists and turns on a sheet of paper. As she grew older, so did her passion for designing and crafting her own clothes as well as her keen interest in interior design. "I used to buy fashion magazines of all sorts and would spend hours gazing and at the wonderful collections of famous designers such as Gianni Versace, Armani and Coco Chanel." She clarifies that sewing was not something she really loved doing. "I was always more into design." Yet, at the age of thirteen, she surprised herself by designing and sewing her very own suit. She notes that the moment she finished her suit, she wore it and quickly rushed to the mirror asking herself "did I really do this?" Yet her major turning point came at the age of twenty one when Gianni Versace passed away. "It was a shock. It was like a family loss. Something deep inside me told me that I belonged to the fashion industry and since then I never looked back." Curtains were her initial platform to express her flair in design. Indeed, Mary Grace worked for ten years in this area and also issued two books. Yet something deep inside her continued to tell her this was not her real line. Fashion was her real home. Her breakthrough finally happened in 2011 when she launched her first collection. It was at that point in her life when she felt her inner emptiness being filled with what she really loved to do. "I felt it was the place where I wanted to dedicate my life in. It is an expensive world yet I was determined to do it."

Every career path comes at a price and whilst her passion for fashion blossomed, she quickly realised it would take determination, sacrifice and hard work to make the leap to commercial success. Her career in the world of fashion meant she had to find the right balance between work, family and me time. With a smile, she notes; "I wake up at 3.00am and dedicate some good time to think, reflect and design. At 6.30am I prepare the little one for school. From 9.00am to mid day is fully dedicated to work. the next three hours are dedicated to home chores. At three, I pick the little one from school and dedicate a good one hour and a half with him. After that, I am back to my work. It's a very busy agenda but I find it works and offers me a perfect balance between all my daily commitments." Mary Grace's efforts paid and her work quickly attracted the attention of leading local personalities. Indeed, her work quickly earned her a reputation as one of the major exponents of the local fashion industry. Her work is grand, luxurious, complex, colourful and bold yet never vulgar. Yellow, red, blue, green and a myriad of other colours perfectly coexist together creating pure work of art. Slowly, her work also attracted the interest of new markets beyond our shores. I ask Mary Grace what is the right personality for a woman to wear Cessani to which she promptly notes that the brand does not fit under any specific personality. "The brand is meant to work around the personality of each individual person, irrespective of whether she is bold, shy, extravagant or modest. My collections are more about the way I think at a certain point in time rather than based on a specific character. Every dress will in some way fit every type of personality"

Bridal Wear - Bridal Fabrics - Haute Couture

Photo credit cngphotography

w w w. c e s s a n i . c o m

A telier

Photo credit - Tonio Lombardi

Our discussion shifts on summer. Her eyes glow and with a smile notes "I love this time of the year for the colours it offers. It is a time when clothes are blessed with colourful flowers, chiffons and frills. It is that time of the year when my favourite colour, light blue, comes to life." I also ask her for any tips for this summer to which she notes, "We live in a Mediterranean country which should be reflected in what we wear. Always dress nice yet never sacrifice comfort. A flowing linen dress will always fit any occasion. What's very important is never to over do it."

The clock behind her tells me its time to conclude and head to my next meeting yet before further ado, I ask her what should we expect from Mary Grace in the coming months to which she promptly notes; "the last quarter of 2019 is quite busy travelling around to promote my collections. On the 31st August Mary Grace is off to New York to exhibit her Spring Summer 2020 collection and on the 28th September, she is off to Paris. for a fashion show. The best is yet to come!"

BRIDGEPOINT SHOWROOM, OLD RAILWAY TRACK, ST VENERA 2792 2222 // WWW.BRIDGEPOINTMALTA.COM

A telier

YSL VOLUPTE PLUMP IN COLOUR

multi-tasking lip balm that gently plumps and deeply nourishes while dressing lips in high-shine, luscious color. The outer shell of the lipstick delivers gorgeous color and luminous shine, while the heart-shaped center of the lipstick provides plumping and instant balm care.

KEY INGREDIENTS Natural Coconut Oil Pomegranate Extract Plumping Core Natural Peppermint Oil VoluptĂŠ Plump-in-Color is formulated 100% without parabens, sulfates, and phtalates.

DISTRIBUTED BY CHEMIMART TEL: 2149 2212

8, Merchants Street, Valletta • Telephone: 27042247 • Jewelboxmalta.com

Diamonds are Forever

good understanding of diamond grading will give you the technical information needed when making purchasing decisions. The secret lies in taking the correct approach. Sadly, those who think they fully understand the 4 Cs after an hourâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s research or via a five minutes presentation in a jewelry store are wrong. Likewise, if you think that you are able to choose a great looking diamond online just by looking at a GIA or AGS certificate, you better keep your fingers crossed when the package arrives. Indeed, if you want to select the best diamond possible for a given budget, you need to go beyond the 4 Cs and start looking at in depth details. Warren Giordano, owner of Jewelbox shared with Atelier the key tips to invest properly in a diamonds. Based on your experience is it true that women buy diamonds for themselves nowadays? Yes, women always loved diamonds and today the majority of women

Philosopher, Peter Singer once noted; "Diamonds have an image

can buy diamonds for themselves although when gifted they still

of purity and light. They are given as a pledge of love and worn as a

overjoy women. I must also remark that currently even men are into

symbol of commitment." To what extent do you agree?

diamonds.

Yes absolutely diamonds are a pledge of love and worn as a symbol of commitment however these diamonds are the ones carefully chosen

Whatâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s your view on synthetic diamonds?

to represent the affection and appreciation of each other.

In my opinion a natural diamond is always my first choice as, apart from the brilliance and shine of a diamond, one has to also

What should we look out for the purchasing a diamond?

understand from where a diamond comes. A diamond can be under

The first thing one has to look for when purchasing a diamond is a

the earth's crust for millions of years and above the earth's crust

trusted diamond dealer who has the knowledge and experience in

for other thousands, the diamond then has to be mined, which is

trading and grading diamonds. this will guarantee that the diamond

a considerable process keeping in mind the search for a diamond

you are buying is a genuine stone and that the characteristics stated

producing area and that for every 1 ct of diamond rough found, 2

by the dealer are accurate. Every diamond has its own characteristics

tons of rock are mined. The rough diamond then goes for the cutting

which can be identified with the 4 Cs, Cut, Clarity, Colour and Carat

and polishing process which is not a simple process either and takes

weight. Each of these characteristics makes the diamond unique and

careful planning and craftsmanship to have the best end result. The

the rarer the diamond is, the more valuable it is.

synthetic diamond is in other words a diamond copy which is lab grown and has the characteristics of a natural diamond and costs less

What makes diamonds a perfect gift?

as it doesn't require all the expenses a natural stone has to be mined.

A diamond is unique and has its own characteristics, therefore there

In other words a synthetic diamond is a more affordable alternative

is no diamond exactly like another. This is what makes a diamond the

to a natural diamond.

perfect gift since a diamond is as unique as you. Which trends can you predict within the diamond industry? Can everyone afford a diamond?

The diamond industry has a long history where a long time ago

Nowadays yes a diamond can be bought by anyone, however large

the market was restricted, now the market is more open and lately

and high quality diamonds are still not for everyone as they are rare.

diamond prices reflected diamond supply like in any other market.

A diamond's price is based on its rarity rather then its size or its

I believe that diamonds will get rarer by time as a result of excessive

clarity however these 2 characteristics contribute to the rarity of a

mining costs and fewer diamond discovery. I see these factors pushing

diamond.

diamond prices up in the near future.

B eauty

Makeup is not a mask that covers up your beauty, it's a weapon that helps you express who you are from the inside. 94

Michelle Phan

Model : Venla Katariina E Edelmann Models M

Hair by Neville Roman Zammit Makeup by Lyanne Sawyer Style by Carina Camilleri Photo credit: Matthew B Spiteri

The Beauty of your Face Interview with Monica Robustelli, Makeup Artist

A telier

ark hair, sharp dark eyes, glowing pulpy red lips and an undisputed talent which critics have often praised her ability to turn a face into something glamorous, artistic and which spells out the beauty in every person. Monica Robustelli is indeed one of the major exponents of the international makeup industry. Her portfolio is impressive having worked with the likes of Selena Gomez, Freida Pinto, Antonio Banderas, Nicolas Cage, Jeremy Irons and Danny De Vito. Monica shared with Atelier her passion for makeup, the role of her makeup artist school and her projects in the pipeline.

A telier

What's the idea behind â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;The Make up Artist Schoolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;? It is more than a school. It is a place where ideas and experiences are shared. Indeed, the school is based on the concept of training knowledge competence. tMUAS is also an agency. In fact, on completion of the training programme, students continue to collaborate with us.

What does make up mean to you? Make-up is the highest form of expression and communication that allows you to express your inner self. The term 'cosmetic' derives from cosmos which also means creating order. What is beauty? I love this question ... beauty is all that excites me regardless of taste. What is the worst mistake in makeup? The most common mistake? Good question ... I think it is that of ignoring other points of view and cultures. Every makeup artist requires a global education to avoid misunderstandings. What is tMUAS? tMUAS is a thematic nucleus of the make-up discipline. It offers the opportunity to students to touch on a vast range of sectors by participating in international backstages of cinema fashion and glamour events and learn from true make-up professionals.

Tell us about the bridal make inspired by Kandinsky. Bridal beauty is not just technical but it is something more. Bridal makeup is generally all the same with minimal emphasis on the personality of the individual. I strongly believe it is possible to geometrize the face with sparkling colours through the use of an airbrush, which makes the makeup even more resistant and waterproof while maintaining the main motif of a romantic and refined style. How does a makeup artist juggle a career, the role as a mother and a personal life? I often asked this question. I am a mother of a 15 year old girl. I must say, this profession offered me the opportunity not to neglect my family but rather involve her in my travel, cultural experiences and entertainment. What makeup tips can you provide to our readers for summer? For summer, I recommend using mineral-based powder for the cosmetic base, the effect is natural and does not reflect imperfections, metallic colours for the eyes and ultra-gloss lips Any projects in the pipeline? Exciting times ahead! We are working on new collaborations, to allow our students more opportunities both during their studies and after. We will shortly launch a new website and than you can discover more by following me on my social media pages.

HAIRDRESSING & BEAUTY

As part of the My Journey initiative, students in secondary school now have the option to immerse themselves in the fascinating world of hairdressing and beauty with hands-on experience. Students are now able to blend relevant and quality academic, applied and vocational subjects in a personalised and inclusive learning environment that enables them to reach their full potential. Through the introduction of My Journey, secondary school students will be able to opt for different forms of learning and assessments, have the opportunity to reach the same level of qualifications and be equally employable regardless of the blends of options theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll choose to study. Itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s time to improve on what we have, and try to build an education where children enjoy going to school every day. For more information kindly visit myjourney.edu.mt or nextyear.edu.mt 100

Educating the Next Generation

nterview with Dorothy Meli, Coordinator at the Ministry for Education and Employment for the Vocational and Applied Subject of Hairdressing and Beauty and former Director at MCAST’s Institute of Community Services. The local fashion industry is growing at a steadfast pace. The work of local talent has made its way beyond our shores reaching the catwalks of leading fashion markets including Paris, New York and London. The growth has had a spill over effect in areas such as beauty and hairdressing with a consequence strain on Human Resources in these sectors. Market demand calls for a further emphasis on training to produce the next generation of hairdressers and beauticians. In this context, as part of the ‘My Journey’ programme launched in 2016 the Ministry for Education and Employment will be introducing the "Hairdressing and Beauty" programme in State Secondary schools which seeks to equip students with the right skills to successfully work in the industry. Dorothy Meli, Coordinator for the Ministry on the Vocational and Applied Subject of Hairdressing and Beauty in state secondary schools, with a vast experience in the industry, speaks on the scope of the programme. She is also a former Director at MCAST’s Institute of Community Services and is the former Head of Hairdressing School in Malta. How would you assess the current state of the hairdressing and beauty industry? The industry is going strong and many of the new hairdressers and beauticians are qualified by an accredited institution. There is also growth in men’s barber salons and in beauty spas. Is there enough training? Yes there is. Besides accredited institutions, many hair & beauty suppliers provide training on products, colours, hairstyles, new beauty machines and other related areas. What does the "My Journey" project seek to achieve? The "My Journey" project seeks to provide different paths for students with different ways of learning and assessment so that it caters for the needs of all learners. In essence, My Journey brings partity of esteem among all subjects without distinction between

traditional, vocational and applied subjects whilst linked with post-secondary schooling and working hand in hand with the industry. Tell us about the "Hairdressing and Beauty" vocational and applied programme? The "Hairdressing and Beauty" programme will be spread over three years of secondary education. Every year students will be taught different modules in Reception duties, Client Consultation, Shampooing & Conditioning, Nail Care, Facial Care, Make-up, Health & Safety in the Salon, plaits and basic cuts. No chemicals will be included in the syllabus. How will the course help students? The course will equip students with the necessary sectoral life skills and help them decide whether or not they would like to further their studies at MCAST to take it up as a career. It will also give them the necessary employability skills. In an nutshell, My Journey will open doors that were previously closed. What is the current response to the programme? The current response is very encouraging. Does the programme provide training in entrepreneurship? It will just give them a taste in entrepreneurship especially when they learn about reception duties as besides dealing with clients, they also need to take stock of products, work in a team and have good communication skills. Finance management, planning and organisation and cross-curricular themes which are dealt with as part of entrepreneurship education in all subjects. What are the current and future ministry's objectives of such a programme? The ministry's objective of such a programme is to address the issue of early school leavers and to enhance the employability of all learners through continuation of further studies at MCAST and other post-secondary vocational institutions. Such subjects, both vocational and applied, will be assessed throughout the 3-year programme between Secondary Years 9 and 11, which will lead to certification by MATSEC at Malta Qualifications Framework Level 3.

101

FEELING BEAUTIFUL Interview with Jennifer Dimech, Makeup Artist

Credits - Kris Micallef

102

he moment you come across Jennifer Dimech, you are immediately struck by her appearance. She is cool, relaxed and casual yet at the same time her hair, her makeup and her attire are perfect. Everything seems to be at the right place exalting her very attractive features. She is warm, welcoming and humble notwithstanding her fame and accolades. Indeed she is and most of it is owed to her upbringing. Her parents instilled in her the philosophy that "the things that make us different are the qualities that make us beautiful." This statement has become the mantra by which Jennifer lives and the power behind it has led to her incredible success. Her natural ability to make clients not only look beautiful, but feel beautiful, has made her a favourite of many on the island.

103

104

A telier

I arrive late, very late to my meeting and although visibly concerned she will not make it to her first appointment, she greets me in with her signature smile. Without further ado, I ask her what attracted her to the industry to which with a smile, she points out that there are several reasons. Yet, what really attracted her was that, "I found this profession to be best suitable for myself since it allows me to be creative and it also complements my inborn knack for fashion and glamour." She adds; "Ever since I was a young girl I always strived to better myself, and the ambition instilled in me led me to experimenting on my own whilst locked in my room. I always had a passion for art since I was a little girl at school and my eye hand dexterity enhances my skill in my role as a Makeup artist." Jennifer points out that although makeup is her life, she admits the profession offers its share of challenges. "We constantly need to keep our clients happy." Yet she admits, the major challenge lies in the fact that makeup artists need to keep up with new trends. "The fashion industry evolves on daily basis and the competence has to be kept up with accordingly, while also keeping up with the busy work schedule because one could easily get carried away and forget about what is new in the make up world." Despite the challenges the profession offers her the possibility to meet new people everyday, visit exciting new places and countries that broaden her vision. It also offers her the possibility to work with leading local and foreign artists and designers. It also offers me the possibility to make people happy with the way they look. I ask Jennifer whether everyone

can look better with makeup. She stops for a moment and cautiously measures her answer. Jennifer notes that makeup does not do miracles yet certainly helps every individual feel more comfortable with herself and more confident. "Makeup has that magical effect on our moods, on our ego and on our self judgement." She also concurs with the famous American makeup artist, entrepreneur, and voice actress, Michelle Phan who once noted that "makeup is not a mask that covers up your beauty; it's a weapon that helps you express who you are from the inside." We shift our conversation on to social media as a major influence to the beauty industry. Jennifer feels it offers an amazing opportunity to followers. "They know the latest trends, they experiment with new products and are more aware of how to take care of theirselves. However social media can be dangerous thus creating wrong perceptions of what beauty is all about." It's time to conclude, yet before leaving, I ask Jennifer what advice can she give to prospective students thinking about an education and career in make up. With a smile she notes that "the famous American politician Esther McVey once noted that work experience for many is their first taste of work and an essential first step into the jobs market. Indeed it is. Experience is key and the only way you will move forward in the industry. Grab every opportunity irrespective of whether it is free or against any form of remuneration. At some point, it will help you developing something better than you are today."

105

Summer dining as it should be. Lunch in the sunshine, poolside cocktails, and dinner under the stars. This is summer as it should be, at The Summer Kitchen. Open for Lunch from 12pm to 4pm and for Dinner from 7pm to 10.30pm. Book now by calling 2544 2738 or email us on tsk.palace@corinthia.com

THESUMMERKITCHEN.COM.MT

106

A telier

Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s newest Hospital. Right at your doorstep.

St Thomas Hospital Valletta Road Qormi

Now Open. Call us on 21 482 482

Focus on weight loss surgery

Why it works when diets fail Weight loss surgery has emerged as one of the most effective treatments in modern medicine.

his bold claim is not arbitrary. Numerous studies have detailed undeniable clinical evidence showing weight loss surgeryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to attenuate and reverse the devastating effects obesity can have on quality of life and health.

The vast majority of obese patients we see at St Thomas Hospital have tried - and failed - curbing their weight through dieting for years, often not managing to keep a steady healthy weight for a meaningful time. Willpower would not necessarily be lacking, which suggests that something else would be at play. The truth of the matter is that the root cause of obesity is multi-factorial and generally it cannot be pinned to one factor alone. For a large part of the population the causes are simply attributed to bad diet and lack of exercise, but obesity itself brings a different set of considerations rather than just diet alone. Genetics play an important role, with many patients reporting the existence of a family history of obesity. Environmental factors such as socio-economic realities exacerbate these genetic predispositions and medicines such as anti-depressants - which are often prescribed to patients suffering from obesity - tend to fuel the vicious weight gain cycle further. But a person who has been battling obesity for years also develops resistance against weight loss itself. The obese body defends itself against weight-loss by reducing its metabolic rate, making it increasingly difficult to loose weight over time during dieting. Oftentimes, the precious weight lost in the course of years of dieting is regained within a couple of months. This phenomenon is generally not seen after weight loss surgery which changes the structure of the digestive tract. Over time, the results of weight-loss surgery have

108

been remarkable: In a recent study which assessed patients from 5 to 25 years after undergoing weightloss surgery, significant improvements to the patient health and quality of life were recorded. Patients who underwent weight-loss surgery fared significantly better and noted remarkable improvements in physical and mental health compared to persons who did not undergo surgery. The study noted that bariatric surgery subjects reported less problems of pain, mobility, anxiety and depression and had better social interactions. The medical benefits reaped from surgically induced weight-loss are equally remarkable. Studies have shown that metabolic surgeryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s efficacy in reducing weight leads to reductions in blood pressure, blood sugar levels, cholesterol and cures sleep apnea. And although the surgery cannot be said to cure type II diabetes, it forces the disease into remission, slowing or preventing life threatening damage caused to the heart, kidneys, blood vessels and the nervous system. As with any weight-loss measure, the success thereof depends not only on the amount of weight lost but also on the interventionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s ability to hold off that weight for a meaningful time, preferably permanently. In an 10 year follow up study of 1700 patients who underwent gastric bypass, researchers showed that only 3.4% returned to within 5% of their original weight a decade after surgery. Most notably, 70% of patients lost 20% of their weight 10 years post-surgery and about 40% of patients had lost and maintained

A telier

a 30% reduction in weight during the same period. When it comes to the surgical options available, the most popular choices are the gastric sleeve and the gastric bypass techniques. The latter, results in greater weight loss after 10 years than the gastric sleeve procedure. Although both techniques reduce the size of the stomach, gastric bypass is also associated with the treatment of type II diabetes, which gastric sleeve does not treat effectively. No matter which technique is used, the safety of the procedure has improved significantly in the last 10 years and the risk is comparable to common surgeries such as gall bladder removal. Given the confidence surgeons have in the procedures and their well documented safety track record, the surgeries are now being performed on wider classes of individuals whose obesity is less severe. The typical candidate for metabolic surgery holds a BMI ( Body Mass Index ) of 40 or over. However patients with a BMI of 35 and in some cases even less and who suffer from metabolic diseases such as type II diabetes are now being treated with weight loss surgery. Given the epidemic proportions of people suffering from obesity, the access to weight-loss procedures is increasing, as more and more people are becoming aware of the benefits such procedures bring on their quality of life and health. The growing trend of adopting a proactive approach to treating weight-loss surgery to prevent obesity related diseases rather than treating them once their symptoms become pronounced and difficult to treat, is leading to more people opting for surgery to reap longer lasting benefits and a healthier and happier life. For more information on weight-loss surgery and other obesity treatments contact St Thomas Hospital on 21 482 482 and get in touch with our obesity surgeons.

109

BOV FAMILY BUSINESS SUCCESS

BUILDING FUTURE SUCCESS STORIES At Bank of Valletta, we believe in business heroes which is why we’re here to support you and your business anyway we can.

More information is available from www.bov.com or contact 2131 2020. Issued by Bank of Valletta p.l.c., 58, Triq San Żakkarija, Il-Belt Valletta VLT 1130 Bank of Valletta p.l.c. is a public limited company regulated by the MFSA and is licensed to carry out the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap. 371 of the Laws of Malta).

We live in a society exquisitely dependent on science and technology, in which hardly anyone knows anything about science and technology. 112

Carl Sagan

SOCIETY Credit - Clive Xuereb

113

A FUTURE set in

Glass

Interview with Joseph Said, Managing Director of Mdina Glass

114

ast year saw Malta’s preeminent glassmaker, Mdina Glass, celebrate its 50th anniversary. It was a year of looking back at the company’s past, up to its present and which included the release of a book entitled, “Legacy” which charted the story of the firm and its creations in great detail. Now, with the 51st year well under way, the focus has turned to the future.

115

116

A telier

Left to right: Alan, Nevise, Joseph, Olivia and Pamela Said.

As I passed through the shop I couldn’t help but be impressed by the (very pleasant) assault on the eyes. It is packed with so many pieces created by the company’s artisans. We certainly do have a lot of glassware to see. In fact, one of the things we are in the process of tackling is the shop here in Ta’ Qali. It has been a while since we last changed things in a significant way and in time shop designs have progressed a lot. Our range of products has increased greatly. This project has been on the cards for some time and we want to give our local customers and tourists a better experience. I also noticed some works in progress in the workshop. Yes, we’re finishing off the building of a new main furnace. It’s a big job and a sizeable investment, but we want to make sure our product is the best it can be. The furnace is key to achieving this, along with the high standards of materials we use and the skills of our glassmakers. Is your range quite settled now? Well, we have product lines that have made an important part of our range for a long time but our production manager, Olivia Said, is always looking at creating new and innovative pieces and collections. It’s fair to say she is quite restless in this sense.

Olivia is one of your daughters, right? I understand the company is still family run with your other children also involved. That’s right. Pamela runs the retail side along with Nevise. Nevise also manages engraving and corporate orders. We have seven shops in total. Alan runs our Mdina shop, our second largest store. Did you always plan to build a family dynasty through glass? No not at all. However, my children grew up around the company and they just found their place within the set-up naturally. It isn’t easy for producers of handmade crafts to survive nowadays. What’s your secret? Yes, it is difficult. I don’t think we have a secret as such. We have a great team of people throughout the company. We have a passion for what we do and I truly believe we have a great product. We’re popular amongst tourists because people love watching glass being made. We also respect the needs of the local market. We also face challenges. Finding people to be part of our glassmaking team is difficult now, but we’re always looking at ways of discovering talent. Fuel costs have risen exponentially and that is a challenge we’ll have to continue facing.

117

118

100 A

Year Legacy

“

Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment and

“

appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing.

Ernest Hemingway

he famous English philosopher once noted, "Age appears to be best in four things; old wood best to burn, old wine to drink, old friends to trust, and old authors to read." I would dare add that age fits best also on

companies with a longstanding success story. More so when it is a wine producer. On April 27, Marsovin, Malta’s household name synonymous with premium locallyproduced wines, celebrated its 100th anniversary. This is no small accomplishment especially when one keeps in mind that challenge's the wine industry offers and yet, like wine, the Marsovin continues to get better with age. “Not every company is able to reach a 100-year milestone, especially when there are so many things in that time that could prevent such a great achievement,” Jeremy Cassar, CEO of Marsovin, and great-grandson of Marsovin’s original founder proudly notes. “It takes vision, resilience, adaptability to changing markets, passion and many loyal employees to steer a company through a whole century – and it is all this that has brought Marsovin this far."

119

A100

Year Legacy

Founded in 1919 Chev Anthony Cassar embarked on his

Marsovin’s grapes, vines and terroir, unique every vintage but

mission to become a leading wine producer by purchasing

always truly exceptional that have been brought together to

wine from local importers and selling it from horse-drawn

create this wine. The desire to nurture the winery’s exceptional

carts across the island. Marsovin has since grown into

qualities has shaped Marsovin’s philosophy over the past 100

a dynamic family-run company that employs over 165

years. The wine comes in a range of sizes from 75cl, Magnum

employees and continues to trailblaze high-quality wine

(1.5 litres), Double Magnum (3 litres), Jeroboam (5 litres) and

production and export in Malta.

Melchior (18 litres) and is a cuvée of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Syrah, and Ġellewża Imqadded, a

Marsovin continues to expand and modernise,

faithful expression of a unique blend developed to portray the

maintaining its high quality reputation which makes the

very best of the 2017 vintage.

company the leading producer and exporter of wines in Malta. Marsovin has set major inroads in viticulture and

Marosvin has also been responsible for several ‘firsts’

winemaking in Malta and established the current high

that have transformed Malta’s wine industry over the last

standards which some Maltese wines enjoy internationally.

century, such as being the first to start selling wine in glass

The high standard of Marsovin wines is attributed partly

bottles locally, building Malta’s first temperature-controlled

to Malta’s favourable climatic conditions but also to

fermentation tanks, and launching the label’s first vintage,

the stringent controls maintained by experts from the

estate and organic wines. Marsovin was also instrumental in

viticultural aspect to the vinification process in order to

the lobbying and drafting of new local protocols when EU

ensure that the optimum level of quality is achieved.

legislation introduced regulations regarding the production of wine in Malta and Gozo.

Today, Marsovin owns 199.7 tumoli of land which make up their five Estates, testimony to Marsovin’s

The major challenge the industry continues to offer lies

commitment to the culture of wine. These Estates, in

in ensuring enough Human Resources to work the land.

Malta and Gozo, are owned by Marsovin and the Cassar

Notwithstanding the continuous investment by the company

family and are specifically intended for the production

in the land, the vines and in people, farmers continue to

of premium quality, single-estate wines. Over the recent

decrease. The new generation is less keen to seek to work

years Marsovin has also introduced several wines into its

in such a challenging industry. Visibly concerned, Jeremy

portfolio all of which are produced from contracted land,

notes "We continue to invest yet the future does not look

owned by Maltese and Gozitan farmers who produce

promising." He adds, "The government continues to ensure

grapes according to Marsovin’s specifications. Today

local wines are given the merited exposure and recognition in

Marsovin contracts over 1116 tumoli/125 hectares of land

Malta and abroad yet the main emphasis should be to ensure

under vine around Malta and Gozo.

the industry's sustainability. Attention should be given to the charming of new farmers."

Marsovin today boasts an extensive variety of brands

120

in its portfolio including Single Vineyard, Methode

Yet with a positive tone, Jeremy quickly notes that we

Traditionnelle and high profile sweet wines. Due to the

should look at the positive side and feel encouraged by the

fact that Marsovin has been established for so many years,

market's response towards local wine. “Today we are proud

since 1919, the winery has been in the fortunate position

of our name as being synonymous with wine in the local

where it could slowly build up an extensive range of

community; it is a name that some might even say has forged

wines for different palates and budgets. These wines are

the wine industry in Malta. In fact, Marsovin has always been

classified either as, I.G.T. Maltese Islands, D.O.K. Malta or

one step ahead throughout its history, and it will continue to

Gozo, D.O.K. Superior, Single Vineyard Estate wines and

pioneer the future of winemaking in Malta for many more

Boutique wines. * removed 'table wines' from the sentence

years to come.”

As part of its centenary celebrations, Marsovin launched

Happy birthday Marsovin! and as the latin phrase goes, "Ad

a 100th Anniversary wine which includes the very best of

multos annos!"

THat goldilocks look

122

A telier

Interview with Larissa Bonaci, Actress and Presenter

ts hard not to fall in love with Larissa Bonaci. She is sweet, gorgeous and with a signature smile which instantly captivates you. Yet, the girl has more to offer. Indeed, beneath that graceful face with goldilocks lookalike hair, light complexion and sharp eyes lies an undisputed talent which is currently making a name for herself beyond our shores. Larissa was recently given the prestigious Best Actress award for her role in the short film FEAR, which was directed by Juan Jose Serrano Olmedo. Moreover, during the past months, she was busy moving between London, Australia and San Francisco performing the Star of Strait Street. Notwithstanding her very busy agenda, Larissa gave us a sneak peek into her life, her career and her projects for the future.

Who is Larissa Bonaci? I've been a performer since a very young age. Dancing ballet from the tender age of three and attending drama/ musical theatre classes at various performance schools in Malta. I studied acting at The American Academy of Dramatic Arts in LA, after winning best actress at the MADC one act play competition over a decade ago. Once I returned to Malta I worked as an actress and presenter on various local and foreign tv series including a few movies such as “Saul: The Journey to Damascus” I also produced and presented my own entertainment programme “Cook Off ma Larissa u Carlos” which was a great learning experience for myself working as a producer while also doing what I love - entertaining people.

Credit - Edson Muterle

123

Credit - Justin Mamo

I’ve also performed in many plays and musicals in Malta over the years mostly, at the Manoel Theatre and Spazju Kreattiv. I’ve had a great acting career in Malta and I’ve worked with so many talented and passionate artists - this is something I will always cherish. Apart from my acting and presenting I love to travel and learn about different cultures, meeting people and simply talking about life. I’m a big foodie (hence the cooking show :D) so I always welcome the opportunity to try different food! Two years ago I was diagnosed as Celiac which means I am allergic to gluten - this was tough considering I love to eat but I’ve found a way to still enjoy eating the foods I love

124

- the one thing I miss is beer!! However I’ve managed to find some decent gluten free beer so that makes me very happy! I also studied psychology at the University of Malta which was an amazing time - psychology is such a beautiful diverse subject. I encourage anyone to read more about it as it’s truly mind opening and so relevant in finding “yourself ”. I am a born dreamer and anyone who knows me well would confirm this! I believe in second changes, supporting each other and always reinventing yourself - life teaches us to fail in order to succeed... it’s all about perspective - finding the positive in any situation and finding what works for yourself.

A telier Jonathan Cilia of Lovin Malta has recently noted; "You may recognise Larissa Bonaci from her signature hair, but it’s about time we started recognising her for her international achievements." How did you make it abroad? After attending the acting academy in Los Angeles I had a great career in Malta working as a professional actress and presenter, teaching drama and also working in the cultural sector. I was very lucky to have met producers and directors who gave me the opportunity to act in foreign films. I quickly established a name for myself and now slowly but surely in the UK. The entertainment scene in Malta is ever growing - it’s an exciting time for us artists however, my dream was always to establish myself on an international level... London is the place to be :) I also fly back to Malta a couple of times a year to perform and catch up with my fellow colleagues. My passion is acting and I can’t imagine doing anything else. After being cast in “Star of Strait Street” a musical play written and directed by Philip Glassborow I had the opportunity to tour in London, USA and Australia. The musical play has been a great success in Malta and now making noise overseas. My greatest success to date was winning Best Actress in FEAR a short film by Juan Jose Serrano Olmedo, at the Festival de Cine en Corto Ciudad de Vera, a prestigious Spanish film festival that took place in April 2019. There were over 1000 films from 62 countries so I’m truly humbled by this award and it’s truly a reminder that hard work pays off - and chasing the dream is rewarding. It’s all about believing in yourself and taking it day by day... perseverance is key.

You are performing everywhere from San Francisco to Australia to London. What are the key ingredients to succeed in the industry? It’s imperative to have a goal and knowing where you want to be. The secret is to constantly working towards that goal. I live day by day enjoying the journey and no matter where I’ll end up I know, that I’ve done

my best to succeed - it’s about the journey not the destination - following this philosophy keeps me positive and also excited for whatever life throws at me.

In April, you won the Best Actress at Spain’s Festival de Cine en Corto Ciudad de Vera. What does it mean to you to win such a prestigious award? I wasn’t expecting this award and when I got the news from Juan I was super thrilled. There’s so much competition in this industry and so many talented individuals trying to make a name for themselves... it’s not an easy venture the one I chose but this award gave me a boost, a reminder that I have to believe in myself, keep working hard and busting through those walls. Not literally but you get what I mean :)

You recently noted; "The industry is tough but rewarding in its own way.” Can you elaborate? The industry can be tedious and nerve racking - it’s not all about talent, it’s about networking, getting to know the right people, having a presence on social media, worrying about your next job and don’t get me started about auditions... I can go on and on...so when you’re recognized for your work and talent it’s rewarding. It’s a reminder that even though I’ve chosen one of the toughest industries to work in there’s appreciation and support - it’s recognition for your work - the industry can make you and break you and make you all at the same time!

Do you ever feel homesick? I’ve been living abroad on and off for the past 14 years. Of course I miss my family and my close friends, I also miss my sister’s cat Tinkerbelle who always looks confused when I visit home... I miss performing in Malta and the stability I had however, I’m chasing my dreams, I’m doing my dream job so as much as I miss home I’m also happy where I’m at. I know that I’ll always have a home in Malta which, is comforting.

125

How does Larissa Bonaci's life look like beyond work? As I mentioned before I love to travel and I absolutely love food!! Being a foodie I hit the gym at least three times a week... well I try... but I like to take care of myself - dancing and singing are also another passion of mine through which relieve my daily stresses.

A word of advise for other prospective talents vying a career beyond our shores? Never give up, perseverance is key and be kind to yourself! It’s all about enjoying the process and making friends throughout the way. Being surrounded by like minded people feeds creativity and keeps you going. The industry can get very lonely and everyone is “busy”. Also don’t be afraid to ask for help!

What's next for you? I’m currently working on a project that is in its early stages so I can’t divulge too much information - all I can say is this project is so dear to me and I can’t wait to be able to share it with everyone! Since I’m currently living in London where there’s a huge stand up comedy scene, I’ve started writing my own material and performing at open mics- it’s fun and truly therapeutic! I never thought I was funny but apparently I am - the audience seem interested in what I’ve got to say especially when I talk about my “drunken” persona Lily... she’s an interesting person! Finally my fellow cast members and myself are performing “Star of Strait Street” at City Lights in Valletta 27, 28, 29th September - I will be posting more information about this on my instagram and Facebook page @larissabonaci.

Credit - Still from the short film FEAR

126

127

THE END of AN ERA Interview with FREDU L-iSKARPAN, by Brian Gatt

128

Credits - Alan Saliba

“There’s no beating around the bush, I love this job yet it is time for me to stop. It was a tough decision and I still cannot accept the fact that I will not come to the shop anymore.” These were the first words of Alfred Caruana a shoe mender from Rabat or as he’s better known by everyone Fredu L-Iskarpan uttered when we stepped into his shop. His love for shoes developed at a very young. After thirteen years as an employee, Fredu decided to open his own shop. The shop, where he started to operate, was the same shop where years back his father used to sell birds. As they say, off with the old and on with the new.

129

Lately work was inconsistent. He could either go to the shop and spend a whole day talking with the friends who visit him for the daily chat without even mending one pair of shoes or else work incessantly. Fredu explains that nowadays with the hectic life we live and with the fact that one can buy shoes at a very good price, when they tear, people just throw them away and buy a new pair and not take them to the shoe mender to repair.

still has that character that managed to win for him a prize in Brussels. In the shop one can find shoes, materials, machines and a number of photos that are given to him by his friends. One of these photos was taken by Joe Smith and it is the same photo that was chosen as the winning photo out of 5000, in a competition in the EU. In the shop there are other prize winning photos that chose Fredu and his work as their subject.

Notwithstanding all this he still has many regular customers. As a confirmation of this, whilst we were talking to Fredu, a customer came in the shop to repair a pair of shoes that although they were not expensive, they were much liked by this customer. Fredu had to redo the back part of the shoe after it ended up between the client’s dog’s teeth!!

A secret for Fredu’s success is that he tries to assist his customers as fast as possible. Although his work strictly speaking is that of reparing shoes, he ends up doing a number of odd jobs that his customers require due to his competence. Such jobs include mending of belts or bag handles and straps. He then showed us a corner with all the shoes that clients never collected. He stated that lately he is asking for payment in advance because nobody likes to work for nothing. He doesn’t like that this make people grumble and made up his mind that if he stops working, no-one will bother him any longer.

“5000 photos from 27 countries and yet I won with this photo” Notwithstanding the fact that Fredu’s shop is small, it

130

“Here we even get foreign clients who get their shoes with them”.

“

I ask for payment in advance…I was left with many shoes I have mended and now I’m tired

“

working for nothing.

Today Fredu is 71 years old and in his shop, people came from all over the world. There are those who stop in his shop for a chat on his craftsmanship, others who want to repair a pair of shoes, and others still who want to take a photo with him or of his shop. Apart from Maltese clients, his shop is visited by many tourists especially from Australia who tend to return with their shoes on every visit to our islands as they were satisfied of his work. When we asked Fredu about the future of his shop, he stopped for a few seconds and drew in a deep breath. With a heavy heart he told us that he decided that this will be his last year working. As for the future of his shop he told us that there is a possibility that the next door cafeteria will take it to enlarge their space. Fredu ends up by thanking all those who have mended their shoes at his shop and to all those who always had a good word on his craftsmanship and recommended him to others. This wasn’t an easy decision for him and he really had to fight against his will by saying that he had given his all and now it was time for him to retire.

131

Credits - Clive Xuereb

132

A telier

A Brass Feeling Interview with Kevin Abela,

Principal Trumpet at The Malta Philharmonic Orchestra

here is something particular in the way Kevin Abela performs with the trumpet which very few others do. It instantly captivates you and takes you to a musical journey which touches on a wide range of styles from jazz to pop up to orchestra. The trumpet is his muse and his spark which instantly brings him to life and offers him the opportunity to express his incredible talent. Despite his relatively young age, Kevin is a well-established musician and is considered by many critics as one of the best talents Malta has ever produced in the music industry. Kevin shared with Atelier what music means to him, his various experiences in Malta and abroad and projects he has in the pipeline.

133

What were your earliest musical experiences? At the age of 5, I started my studies at St Michaelâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Band Club in Ĺťabbar with Mr Michael Bugelli, former trombone player with the AFM Band, and furthered my studies with Mr Joe Agius, former Principal Trumpet with the Manoel Theatre Orchestra, at the Johann Strauss School of Music and later with Mro Paul Borg, Principal Tuba Player with the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra. I used to play with almost every village band in my early days and that helped me a lot in learning different styles and most of all playing in an ensemble, where your part is not always the most important. My youth days with the village bands gave me a lot of experience as a soloist in Malta and abroad.

How come you opted for the trumpet? My father wanted me to play the saxophone but I always knew that the trumpet was the instrument for me. So not even my dad convinced me otherwise at the age of 6 :-) I am just in love with the sound of it and I remember that when I was really young someone gave a cassette tape to my dad (which I still treasure) of a trumpet player from Italy Nini Rosso and I remember being obsessed, listening to it every single day wherever we were. I was about 4 at the time and that was my first encounter with the trumpet sound.

What does music mean to you? Music is everything I could imagine. The trumpet is an extension of myself and in many occasions I express myself better playing the trumpet than in words. Music made me who I am today, gave me some hard time but the achievements were much higher. As a musician I worked with great artists, musicians of high calibre and great conductors, and played in the most prestigious theatres in the world. To mention but a few, Carnegie Hall - New York, Mariinsky Theatre - St. Petersburg, Musikverein Vienna and Philarmonie - Berlin. As an Orchestrator

134

A telier

I worked with top artists like Joseph Calleja, Zucchero, Eros Ramazzotti, Anastasia, Rebecca Ferguson, Leona Lewis, Ronan Keating and many more. I have conducted the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra in a Project called Movie Spectacular which we did for 5 years, but last February I did the most challenging one of them all, conducting the Orchestra in the Live-to-Film of Disneyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Beauty & The Beast. Also back in 2014 I formed my own band, Brass House Unit which is now established as one of the top Brass Bands on the Island.

Who have been some of your most influential teachers and personalities in the industry? Definitely Mro Paul Borg, who was very influential in my musical career both as a teacher and on a human level. We shared a lot of thoughts together and believe that we have a lot in common when it comes to music. Another person who was influential was Mro Archibald Mizzi, who gave me so many opportunities as a soloist, teacher and as a conductor, apart from

the many life lessons that I will treasure for the rest of my life. NNG Promotions gave me the opportunity to work with all the national and foreign artists that were invited for their concerts, so I grew up in my career in a very professional environment, learning how it works when it comes to the real thing. I cannot not mention three important conductors who nurtured me in the beginning of my professional career, Mro Michael Laus who believed in me when I was still 14 years old and called me up to be part-time with the Manoel Theatre Orchestra, the late Mro Vella who was the first conductor in my professional career whom I have a special connection with the music he composed, and Mro Sammut who believed so much in the Maltese talent and encouraged a lot of people to take music onto the next step. I should also mention my workmate Brendan Ball, who came here to Malta after a long career in the UK and around the world playing with the very best. He shares all his experience with me and having such a great player next to you gives you the boost to do better each and every day.

135

136

Mr Wayne Marshall will remain one of the most prolific personalities who I look up to both as a musician and as a conductor. He is the type of person that when he sees you in trouble he says that magic word and makes you believe in yourself and succeed in what you are going to do. We did some challenging repertoire with him and would love to see him conducting our orchestra more often! Someone I would have loved to meet but I cannot is Leonard Bernstein. I think he was beyond the average by far.

Which recordings do you keep listening often? A recording that I love to listen to very often is “Gonna Fly Now” by Bill Conti, the version that was played by the Maynard Ferguson Tribute Band featuring three great trumpeters - Wayne Bergeron, Patrick Hession and Eric Miyashiro. That’s epic to me! Another recording which I love is Mahler Symphony No. 2 - Conducted by Leonard Bernstein. I am a person who loves all types of music so I never limited myself to one particular genre. An album that I would always need to listen to when I need to de-stress is “Under my Skin” by Ben L’Oncle Soul. I love listening to Jamiroquai, Bob Marley, Earth, Wind & Fire, Tower of Power, Moby, Daft Punk, Dirty Loops, Snarky Puppy, The Prodigy, Faithless, Queen and of course Pink Floyd who wrote my alltime favourite song - “The Great Gig in the Sky”.

What are the physical demands of being principal trumpeter of the Malta Philharmonic Orchestra? One needs to be sharp and fresh. I train 3 times a week with a personal trainer to keep fit and that helps me keep my body and mind fresh. We go through a lot of mind stress seeing as you want to give your best no matter what. Before every performance I always try to have a good nap so I am on tip-top form on the day of my performance. Sometimes people out there think that we have an easy job but I compare us musicians with professional athletes, we do rehearsals and they train

everyday but when it comes to the performance there is no room for error, either you perform at your 110% and give your best performance like there’s no tomorrow or you have to wait anxiously for the next performance to overcome your previous one. That requires a lot of energy, more than one would think, that’s why one needs to be fit and fresh.

I was struck by your recent Facebook post; "I do what I love and I love what I do!" Can you tell us more? It is very simple, I feel lucky and sometimes special that I do what I love and I am in love with what I do. I cannot explain what I feel when it comes to playing even the simplest of notes. For me every note coming from my playing should have a special meaning. Music can reflect your state of being. Being in a good mood or feeling sad, everything is reflected in what you play and the best thing of it all is that there is no DELETE BUTTON in live music; what you do will be there for everyone to judge. I just love performing, love all the tough challenges and the stress behind it all, the feeling after a good performance is something I cannot describe! The adrenaline would be over the top :-)

137

138

A telier

A Lawyer's Life Interview with Dr. Veronique Dalli, Founder and Managing Partner od Dalli Advocates

etite, sophisticated, good looking and successful is a perfect way to describe Veronique Dalli. Yet, for those who know her on a daily basis, will certainly tell you that beneath that outer crust lies a strong, focused and very determined person. A fearless advocate for justice and for what is right. She is blunt, frank and straight to the point with very little patience for those who try to beat around the bush. Possibly, this is her key asset which has earned her a reputation as one of the leading lawyers on the island. Veronique shared with Atelier her journey in the law profession and what her life looks like beyond work.

Credits - Kris Micallef

139

140

A telier

What attracted you to the legal profession? I always found the legal profession to be a very important dimension in the function of any country or jurisdiction. Lawyers are there to safeguard the interests of citizens through the application and the interpretation of the law. This coupled with the challenge to pass exams at law school and get admitted to the bar, coupled with the subsequent challenges of devising a trial strategy made me consider law as an interesting and viable professional opportunity. Obviously I also found the romantic aspect of law very appealing when I was an 18 year old student and the contribution and influence of giants in the legal profession such as Sir Anthony Mamo, appealing too!

Has the profession lived up to your expectations? Yes - I must say that my career trajectory has put me across cases ranging from criminal law to other new and innovative dimensions such as the blockchain space. I now have my own law firm and together with my partners we specialize in different aspects of law. So to cut a long story short - I did and still do find my profession to be fulfilling and if I had to start all over again - I would do the same!

You once defined the law courts as an interesting place. Why? I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t define the Law Courts as an interesting place in the literal sense, however it is a place which is the true microcosm of society. In the sense that people from different walks of life facing similar or different issues get to meet under one roof so as to either find solutions to their problems or else seek redress through the judicial process through the laws of our country. The law courts are the temple of what constitutes a truly working and effective democracy. It is also the place where people tend to socialize, gossip, banter and discuss day to day issues.

What does your life look like beyond the legal profession? I try to keep a work life balance. Recently, I started attending Yoga classes with a friend of mine! I find Yoga to be good for the body and mind. The relaxation techniques incorporated in yoga make the body more flexible and improves respiration, energy and vitality. Aside from the physical benefits, one of the best benefits of yoga is how it helps a person manage stress. This year my daughter and I adopted a puppy. Catering for him and taking him out for a walk has now become a ritual. He is a Shiba Inu a fox like breed that originally comes from Japan. They have very nice characters but are also very energetic! Indeed his presence brought more vitality and excitement to the house!

What differences do you see in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s legal market compared to when you started? I wouldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t say that things changed much. The principles and the foundations of our legal system are there to stay. However, I do note that members of the judiciary are continuously being judged and are under the spotlight of the media, particularly social media. Social media has definitely taken a prominent role in any society including Malta and people are free to discuss anything under the sun including specific court cases and pronouncements of the courts. Different segments of society have the capacity to criticize the judgements delivered by the Courts, particulary the ones with a spin on partisan politics. This is not necessarily a bad thing, however the commentaries I read display a lack of understanding of the law and of the principles of fair trial. Unfortunately, at times, this is then resonated by other segments of the media. I have full faith in our judicial system which is made up of some of the best legal minds of our country. Judges must resist pressure and act in an unprejudiced manner, especially in certain cases which are subject to trial by the media.

141

What has been your most interesting experience as a lawyer? Since I started practicing as a lawyer I have worked on various cases ranging from criminal trials to international business matters – and all that goes in between. In the beginning of my career I defended people who were accused of homicide and violent crime as well as white collar crime. Following that, I diversified and successfully defended clients before the European Court of Human Rights in Strasbourg. Fast forward ten years, I founded my legal office. Together with my partners I have assisted international clients in cross border issues and commercial matters. It is indeed exciting especially when our clients are CEO’s of world renowned brands in boating and fashion. At times, I also get the opportunity to assist the odd international celebrity.

Who is your legal hero? I do not have a contemporary legal hero. But I have true reverence for the founding fathers of the law whose knowledge and foresight has set the basis of society. Cicero’s philosophy is still applicable today, and the Romans’ wisdom has set the basis of civil law across the globe even two thousand years after their time. More recently I do have a lot of respect and admiration for lawyers who champion human rights especially the ones who highlight the suffering and hardships of war victims and refugees. For example Amal Alamuddin comes to mind. I am looking forward to reading her upcoming publication next year titled ‘The Right to a Fair Trial in International Law’ published by Oxford University Press. Her article ‘The Anatomy of an Unfair Trial’ sheds light on the unjust conviction of three journalists who were wrongly convicted in what was described as a travesty of justice.

142

What does summer mean to you? Summer means everything to me. It is the time of the year when everything and everyone seems to come to life! The sun and the sea are a source of relaxation as well as inspiration to me. I try to spend as much time as I can by the sea or out at sea with my friends. I love the slower pace of summer as it gives the space to relax and recharge. There’s a je ne sais quoi about the annual exodus to the beach, the beachy hair and the hazy stillness of summer.

What advice would you give to students trying to enter the legal profession today? Like any other profession, becoming a lawyer is a vocation which is both challenging and demanding. It is only through hard work that one can truly succeed and gain the trust of the client who entrusts his or her destiny in the hands of their lawyer. This puts tremendous responsibility on the lawyer and therefore requires utmost diligence and commitment at all times.

What’s next on your very busy agenda? Unfortunately my agenda is always busy however I intend to take a break this summer and go on a sailing trip with my lawyer friends on the coast of Greece. I absolutely love the Mediterranean landscape and am so looking forward to the Greek cuisine and the Greek scenery. Obviously the company of good friends is a big plus!

A telier

143

CMY

PROVIDING PLEASANT LIFESTYLES SINCE 1982 ( + 3 5 6 ) 2 1 4 1 9 7 8 7 ∙ M O S TA R O A D , L I J A , L J A 9 0 1 0 , M A L TA ∙ W W W . F R A M E G R I P . C O M

Insurance? You need someone Professional | You need someone Reliable | You need someone To Trust | You need LAFERLA

+356 2124 0828 | info@laferla.com.mt | www.laferla.com.mt |

Laferla Insurance Agency Ltd.

204A, Vincenti Buildings, Old Bakery Street, Valletta VLT1453. Laferla Insurance Agency Ltd. is enrolled under the Insurance Intermediares Act, 2006, to act as an Insurance Agent for Mapfre Middlesea plc (MMS). MMS is authorised by the Malta Financial Services Authority to carry on both Long Term and General Business under the Insurance Business Act, 1998. Both entities are regulated by the MFSA.

here is a deep and intense underlying message in every photograph taken by Phil Borges. Indeed, the American filmmaker and photographer's images speak about key global issues namely, social justice and the preservation of different cultural heritages. His images vary from portraits of exiled Tibetan monks to many of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s embattled tribal and indigenous cultures. His breathtaking work has been featured in National

146

A telier

PORTRAITS OF

UNDISTURBED CULTURES Interview with Phil Borges,

FILM MAKER AND PHOTOGRAPHER

Geographic and on Discovery Channel, as well as in museums and galleries across the globe. Among his award-winning books that cover key human rights issues are Tibetan Portrait, Enduring Spirit, Women Empowered, and Tibet: Culture on the Edge. Phil recently shared with Atelier what attracted him to photography, the various themes he addresses through his photography and his big projects in the pipeline.

147

www.expressgroup.com

#WeAreOrange Follow our story

www.expressgroup.com

Breeze through any delivery with

EXPRESS TRAILERS. Applying our acquired EXPERIENCE,

Breeze anyand delivery with obsessivethrough EXCELLENCE

proven EXPERTISE EXPRESS TRAILERS. in delivering your cargo, whatever it is, from wherever, to anywhere and however. Applying our acquired EXPERIENCE, obsessive EXCELLENCE and proven EXPERTISE ROAD | RAIL | OCEAN | AIR in delivering your cargo, whatever it is, from wherever, to anywhere and however. Express Trailers Ltd | Velbro House, Qormi Road, Luqa LQA 9040, MALTA | info@expressgroup.com

148 Tel: (+356) 2124 2311

A telier What encourages an orthodontist to shift towards photography? I had fallen in love with photography while I was in dental school, and it came back to me when my son was born. I found a teacher by chance at a community college. I wanted access to a darkroom because I’d taken black-and-white pictures of my son's birth and I needed to develop them somewhere. So I asked if I could use the darkroom in this community college and was told that I had to take this teacher's class. I ended up with an inspirational teacher, Ron Zack, who still teaches at a community college up in Napa. I fell in love with photography again—that was all I knew. I had been restless in my practice because I knew it wasn't fulfilling me the way I wanted it to. So when I found photography again, I just decided, yes, that's the sign that I have to make this change. I knew it was going to be uncomfortable. I did not want to be poor again, and I had a new son. Dentistry was the only way I knew how to make a living, but when I quit, I thought the only thing I needed to do was to learn how to make money with this new medium. I started to try commercial photography. It took me three or four years before I even got a job, but during that time I could do my own work while waiting to get clients—I would do my own projects. What really propelled my advance in photography was doing what was really close to my heart. From that work, I started getting commercial work and it got to the point where I was pretty successful.

are made with a Hasselblad 6x6cm single-lens reflex and a 50mm or 80mm lens, and panoramas with a V-Pan 6×17-cm view camera and a 90mm, 120mm, or 210mm lens. In a process of printing, I selectively tone the prints with Sepia Toner, in order to emphasize the distinction between subject and background.

Tell us about your use of sharp/unsharp effect and strong studio lighting, I did so many of these portraits. Typically, during daylight and with dark skin I had to create light to get the detail and look I wanted. I tend to work very closely with my subjects, using a small lens aperture to ensure that every detail of the subject is sharp, where the background is seamless, thrown out of focus and farther away, becoming a secondary object. In my images I use the sharp/unsharp effect and strong studio lighting, to make the portrayed person the center of viewer’s attention. My square portraits

What lies behind your deep connection with people who live close to the land? I think my attraction to people still living that type of lifestyle came early childhood experience. I was born on a ranch in the 1950s where we grew our own food. So I've always been attracted to people who live close to the land. I think that's one of the things that really set me off on this journey, going into remote areas where people do that. They're hunter-gatherers, or they're growing all their own food, in very small communities where there's a lot of connection, not only to their land, but to

In what way is storytelling your main focus? Storytelling has always been my main focus. I use my work as a channel for the rest of the world to understand the challenges these individuals and communities face, along with the incredible resilience, spirit and wisdom they face them with.

149

their ancestors. I'd be with people eating, and they would set aside some food for the ancestors’ spirits. They would pray to the ancestors' spirits. They put spirit-energy in all of the environment—spirits of the forest, the sky, the mountains, and the animals.

Tell us about Crazywise. When a young person experiences a frightening break from reality, Western experts usually label it a "first-episode psychosis" while many psychologists and cultures define it as a “spiritual awakening”. The documentary CRAZYWISE reveals remarkably effective treatment approaches and a survivor-led movement challenging a mental health system in crisis. It started with my work in the indigenous world where I began to meet the individuals who went into trance-like state to serve as the healers or the clairvoyants—they call them seers or predictors— of their community. I started interviewing the people that do this. I found that most of them were selected in their youth by having a crisis of some sort. Once in a while, it was a physical crisis or sickness, but more often than not, it was a mental, emotional crisis. Many declared of seeing visions, having these intense dreams, hearing voices, being very frightened and sometimes feeling like they were dying. Typically, the ones that became healers and seers were taken aside by an elder, usually an older shaman, and told that this was a sign they had special sensitivities. These sensitivities could be very valuable to the community, and they had to go through this initiation—they could not ignore what was happening to them. They could look at it as a calling, and they had to answer this calling. If they did not answer it, they could continue to be sick and eventually die from this calling. So they would enter an initiation period and usually be guided and mentored by an elder who at one time had themselves gone through the same thing and been mentored by somebody before. This was handed down.

150

That way of framing mental illness was really interesting because I knew how it was framed in our culture. Our current biomedical narrative tells us that these experiences are a disease of the brain, and we don't have a cure for it. We have medications that can stabilize a person mainly by tranquilizing them. Most of the medications are heavy tranquilizers. But there's no cure—it's a lifelong sentence. After meeting these shamans, and also during the process of doing Crazywise, I've met a lot of people that label themselves people with lived experiences—people who have lived through one of these crises and are now leading very functional lives. When asked what helped them, they'll say primarily it was the way their condition was framed and the realization that this was an experience they could learn from—that there was meaning in this experience. People need support and help to find the meaning of what they are going through—to find out what their symptoms are telling them, rather than just suppressing the symptoms, and then give those symptoms a purpose in their lives. You can be a very valuable person for this community.

Does summer have any impact on your photographic muse? The seasons are not really relevant to me. My stories are built on other precepts. Seasons only determine which places I choose.

What should we expect from Phil Borges in the coming years? A good question! Right now I have just finished my promotion across US, Canada and Europe of my latest documentary. However, I am thinking about the next project and might do it around small communities where people know and support each other in a direct way. I think as a western culture we have become so isolated but it is still very strong in idigenous cultures. they rely on one another. I still need to determine the method I will use though.

A telier

151

152

A telier

Getting to the Root of

Mental Health

ental

health

disorders

are on the rise in every country in the world. The

World

Organisation

Health (WHO)

estimates that around 300 million people worldwide suffer from depression and 50 million suffer from dementia. Schizophrenia

Dr Chris Fearne Deputy Prime Minister, Minister of Health

is estimated to affect 23 million people, and bipolar disorder around 60 million worldwide. Moreover, a recent report published by the WHO noted that half of all mental illnesses begins at the age of 14, but most cases go undetected and untreated. In terms of the burden of the disease among adolescents, depression is the third leading cause. Suicide is the second leading cause of death among 15-29-year-olds. Harmful use of alcohol and substance abuse among adolescents is a major issue in many countries which can lead to risky behaviours such as unprotected sex or dangerous driving. Eating disorders are also of a major concern issue.

Fortunately though, there is a growing recognition of the importance of addressing mental health issues and the need to focus on young people build mental resilience. Notwithstanding issues related to mental health, for decades, were kept on the sidelines in Malta, the government is finally giving Mental Health the attention it truly merits. Indeed, the government is committed to provide a solid structure which concretely addresses mental health in Malta. In the light of the ever-growing mental health epidemic worldwide, the government will soon launch a mental health strategy for the years 2020-2030 which seeks to modernise the current policy and refurbish existing infrastructure.

153

The strategy emphasises the shift from hospital to community care; to have patients be taken care of in the community and not in a hospital. This will provide a more accessible service and also prevent patients from being institutionalised. The strategy seeks to identify people with mental health problems and who are in crisis in the early stages so that recovery will be faster and they will not need in-patient care. In-patient care must be seen always a last resort. The route towards the patient being discharged begins as soon as they are admitted. This includes assessing whether or how they need to be followed-up. Prevention is also part of the plan. Children will be given the necessary skills to be more resilient, so that when they are exposed to stressful situations, they will know how to overcome it. Apart from the planned acute psychiatric hospital on Mater Dei Hospital grounds, Mount Carmel is also undergoing a radical refurbishment.The decision as to how each ward is to be refurbished depends on the needs of the particular patient groups to be placed in each ward. The patient is at the centre of care, and we know that if the environment is nice and calm, if the patient gets privacy, the level of care is better and the patient’s experience is better. The government’s vision is to provide facilities where patients will have their own private space along with areas dedicated to activities – the goal is to foster autonomy and responsibility, which leads to better behaviour. The refurbishment process has made Mount Carmel more safe. One ward which was inaugurated after undergoing refurbishment now caters to psycho-geriatric patients. A second ward is also being refurbished to accommodate older patients with mental health problems. A third is being refurbished for females with a dual diagnosis, that is those who have a mental disorder and a substance abuse problem. We are also working on an admission suite where patients who come to the hospital will be welcomed and examined. These patients need a calm, serene environment, especially if they are being admitted for the first time, as they might feel anxious in an unfamiliar place The mental health strategy is a clear proof of the government’s will to address mental health in a proper manner. The strategy will guide investment and reform the mental health services, which will truly place mental health patients at the heart of the health policy agenda of our country.

154

A telier

155

156

157

158

A telier

DELICATA’S MOVEABLE WINE FEAST

Georges Meekers If you are lucky enough to have lived through a vintage season from grape to bottle, then wherever you go next for the rest of your life, the love for the divine nectar stays with you, for wine is a moveable feast. It’s no wonder, then, everyone wishes to celebrate the yearly spectacle that is the grape crush. As the 2019 Maltese harvest gets out of the blocks with the first lots of grapes rolling in at the Delicata winery anytime soon, wine enthusiasts get ready to revel in local wine celebrations.

The wines are the real stars, though. Anyone attending has the unique opportunity to savour Malta’s favourites like Dolcino, Classic Collection, The Falcon and Pjazza Reġina. Malta’s most iconic, award-winning Grand Vin de Hauteville and Gran Cavalier labels are also on show alongside other vintage wines such as Medina and Victoria Heights as well as the super rare Girgentina and Ġellewża Frizzantes. Don’t miss the Classic Wine Festival in Valletta. But, if you really can’t make it, then save the dates of the Gozo edition.

In Malta, their grandest port of call is of course the Upper Barrakka Gardens in Valletta, home to the Delicata Classic Wine Festival from 8 to 11 August, every evening from 7pm until midnight.

Delicata’s moveable wine feast will cross the blue Mediterranean waters to Nadur where it is organised in close collaboration with Nadur Local Council from 23 to 25 August.

Drinking good wine with good food in good company is one of life's most civilized pleasures.

With more than 20 Delicata quality wines to try, whether you join in the fun at the Malta or Gozo edition, either event is just another perfect occasion to clink glasses this summer.

Live cooking stalls will be serving a tempting variety of both traditional Maltese and international dishes to tease a wide range of palates prepared by Maypole, Gate of India, Noodle Box and Il-Kċina. You can dance the night away to live music, too. Each night there is a double-bill of top local talent including Airport Impressions, The Crowns and many others.

As is the case at the Valletta festival, entrance in Gozo is also free. To sample the wines one pays €16 for a souvenir wine glass which comes with a wine purse filled with 24 wine coins exchangeable for glasses of a wide selection of Malta’s award-winning wines. Festival details can be obtained from www.delicata.com

159

160

161

PHOTOGRAPHY

The biggest clichĂŠ in photography is sunrise and sunset. Catherine Opie

162

163

A Message in a Photograph

164

A telier

is works piqued the curiosity of many photographic enthusiasts across the globe. His work

has also been published in National Geographic, Condé Nast Traveler and Marie Claire. Within a very short span of time, travel photographer Réhahn Croquevielle, simply known as Réhahn, has risen to the topmost levels of photography. Réhahn, from Normandie, France is probably best known for his documental portraits of the vanishing cultures in Vietnam

Interview with Réhahn, Photographer

which he now calls his home. On his motorbike, Réhahn has explored the furthermost corners of the country. Réhahn shared with Atelier, his love for Vietnam, his passion for photography and the message he wants to convey through his work.

165

166

A telier

I read that at the age of 32 you left a stable career in France, sold your business and moved to the town of Hoi An in Vietnam. What happened next? I fell in love with the city and its people and as a result, it sparked my creativity. I began to take as many photographs as I could of everything … rice fields, sunsets over the water, people, whatever caught my eye. One of these chance images, my portrait of my now dear friend Madame Xong, really launched my career.

What does photography mean to you? It is a way for me to connect with people, to travel and to learn. Every time I take a portrait of someone I take the time to talk to them and hear some of their stories. My Precious Heritage project really began with this idea in mind - to use photography as a means to document, preserve and learn about the ethnic groups in Vietnam. This idea is always at the base of my work.

Why do you consider Vietnam your second home? Vietnam and the Vietnamese have a rare ability to make outsiders feel at home. I’ve met so many incredible people here who I consider to be my extended family. In addition, where I live near Hoi An the scenic beauty is just astounding. The calmer life there suits me.

You recently noted, "everything here moves at a slower pace, less stress, less rules and much more freedom." Can you elaborate? There is a sort of artistic freedom in Vietnam that can be hard to access elsewhere. People come from all over the world to have things made by the famous artisans in Hoi An and that adds to the feeling of constant creativity. There’s no pressure … just possibility.

What added value does a motorbike offer to a photographer in Vietnam? Many of the places that I’ve visited for my Precious Heritage project are only accessible by motorbike or by foot. A car would not do well on the narrow, unpaved trails and rocky mountain paths that I’ve often had to traverse as part of my research. In addition, having a motorbike gives me more reasons to interact with locals. I’ve been at the mercy of the kindness of strangers more than once when I’ve had a flat tyre, needed directions or even after having an accident. Being in a car in Vietnam creates a distance with both the environment and the people.

Tell us about your documental portraits of vanishing cultures in Vietnam. Initially, I didn’t have a formal project in mind when I started making portraits of the ethnic tribes in Vietnam. Like many foreigners, I went to Sapa to see the landscapes and to learn more about the people there. I left with a strong desire for more knowledge. Little by little I started to meet more groups and to see the differences in their language, traditional costumes and ways of life. I also saw how their lifestyle was drastically changing with modernization. In some cases, valuable traditions such as handmade textiles, embroidery, and storytelling through music were being forgotten because the younger generations were no longer learning about their cultures. I felt a need to document some of this “precious heritage” while there was still time. I envisioned a place where all 54 recognized tribes and many other sub-groups would be represented with respect and the Precious Heritage museum was born.

167

168

A telier

Your main emphasis is on portraits. Why? I seek interaction and knowledge. A good portrait can only be taken if a subject is comfortable and willing to be photographed. When I choose a subject for a portrait, my goal is to shoot something that will give the viewer a glimpse of their soul. I set aside the time to talk, to learn more about them and their culture so that I can photograph them with the respect needed to achieve this goal. Oftentimes, this interaction has turned into more than a simple photograph. I’ve met lifelong friends in this way.

What makes your photograph of a 6-year-old girl Kim Luan of the M’Nong ethnic group with her pet elephant in the Central Highlands so popular? It is impossible to know for sure what people will connect with and what will become popular. However, in the case of “Best Friends”, I think it has something to do with seeing such a small child face to face with such an enormous animal. The child and the elephant both have such a gentle nature in the way that they regard one another. Viewers can find a message within this contrast.

How does summer entice your photographic lens? Summer is a different concept in Hoi An where the seasons don’t follow the same path as in Europe. Here, there are only two seasons - dry and rainy. The terrain is always green and lush but what changes over the course of the year are the things that are being harvested. I love photographing the first harvests of rice, lotus flowers, coffee, spices and more. In addition, the light changes depending on the season. Summer is the best time to catch a really spectacular sunset.

What's next for Réhahn? I have one more ethnic group to meet in order to complete my goal of photographing all 54 tribes. This will be a momentous event but will certainly not be the end of my research. There are many groups I would like to spend more time with and other subgroups that I’ve not yet documented in the museum. In addition, I am always traveling to other places in the world to take pictures. Over the coming years, I will also continue to focus on my “Giving Back” project by funding projects in the realm of education for disadvantaged youth in Vietnam.

169

THE STORY BEHIND THE PORTRAIT Interview with David Lazar, Photographer

170

A telier

travel photographer and a musician himself from Brisbane, David Lazar is one of the leading names in the travel photographer’s circle. His incredible photographs, mostly portraits, are clean with emphasis on colours and detail which can be seen in the tattooed face of a Chin tribe lady or a shot from the lost city of Mrauk U. Lazar's skill lies mainly in his ability to capture moments of life, beauty and the varied culture across our planet. His work can be traced in leading photography, travel and in-flight magazines, newspapers, books, and journals including; National Geographic, Asian Geographic and Lonely Planet. In 2014 he was awarded Best Culture Photographer by Garuda Airways. He recently also published the book “Myanmar A Luminous Journey’. David shared with Atelier his passion for photography, his experience in countries with a rich cultural background, traditions, history and his plans for the future.

171

What attracted you to photography? I was inspired by portraits of people from India and Nepal, initially, after I saw the film photographs taken by my two friends whom I travelled with in these countries back in 2004. I was drawn to the photos of people from different cultures and of different ethnicities, and back at home I looked at a lot of travel photography online and studied the photos I really liked. The following year I bought a Nikon DSLR camera and decided to try taking better travel photos myself on the next trip. I practiced and developed my ability to meet and engage with people and asking to take their photo, to create photos like the ones I was initially inspired by.

You stress on the fact that you are not a documentary photographer. Travel photography can encompass a broad spectrum of photography such as documenting the world and a fine art style which I feel is about

172

focusing on a goal to be aesthetically beautiful in each image. I consider myself to fall in both genres, as I do have a recurring theme of perfectionism in each photo, but I am shooting a variety of styles such as documentary, portraits both posed and candid, landscape and wildlife - and I hope that the shots are about faithfully representing a countryâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s culture and portraying the stories and lives of the people within them.

You often insist that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s not about what kit, equipment or gear you have, but rather the creative vision and final piece of artwork. Why? To me photography is an art form that is a personal expression of emotion and ideas, which the camera cannot help with. A good photo comes from an interesting, engaging and emotive subject, strong composition and use of light that is artistic and powerful, and all these choices are made by the person behind the camera, and not from the camera itself.

A telier

173

174

A telier

Links: Website: www.davidlazarphoto.com Instagram: https://instagram.com/davidlazarphoto Facebook: www.facebook.com/davidlazarphoto

In what way a camera is simply the tool to get you there? Anyone can buy a camera, but not everyone can express themselves successfully through a visual medium. It’s like complementing a great chef on their high quality pots and pans, or a painter on the brushes and paints they work with. Why do facial expressions, confidence, respect and having a sense of humour are all things that don’t require words? Because these are traits that humans from all countries possess, and although we are different in some ways such as cultural practices, we are really all the same with our desires in life to be happy, healthy and well connected to community, friends and family.

What lessons have you learnt whilst travelling all over the world to the most remote destinations? The experiences I’ve had have all broadened my mind and I really enjoy meeting people in less travelled regions of the world. I learnt that happiness isn’t derived from material possession, and it’s touching to discover that those who have little wealth are perhaps the kindest, most generous and strongest human beings on the planet. I also want to show the beauty in places that sometimes people would normally overlook and bring attention to the positive side of humanity.

175

176

A telier

What makes the girl with the green eyes such a popular photograph? The portraits of Tuly from Bangladesh have been very well received, I think because she has a striking and engaging face while coming across as very relaxed and calm. She is naturally beautiful and her green eyes are quite unique. I believe colourful eyes on a darker skinned person in photography are always very interesting and appealing to the viewer.

What's next for David Lazar? My goal is to continue trying to take powerful and engaging photographs, always seeing if I can improve or do better on the next one. I will also continue to lead photo tours around Asia for Luminous Journeys â&#x20AC;&#x201C; this year I am leading 5 tours and next year there will be a new Japan winter tour which I am looking forward to. I have just returned from a research trip there.

177

Future proof your career!

The world is your oyster

n a fast growing economy, the future tends to dim away in the distance. We are so focused on the successes happening today, that a (false) sense of impunity grips us all. A heady economy enjoying a number of years of full employment, makes people believe that the gravy train will last forever. Actually it will not, because for every boom there will be a slump, and the higher the peak the lower the dip when it happens. The wise invest in the time of plenty in readiness to cope with scarcity, and in todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world, the best insurance policy against effects from a downturn is self-development. When did you last carry out a SWOT of your career potential? What are your strengths and weaknesses? What opportunities do you foresee based upon your strengths, and similarly what grey clouds threaten your future possibilities due to your weaknesses? If you find that you lack the potential to grow in your career because you do not have the necessary qualification, it can be fixed! The opportunities that abound in Malta are innumerable. The Institute played a pivotal role in bringing change at higher education in Malta, with the introduction of University of London undergraduate degrees nineteen years ago. Saint Martinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Institute of Higher Education is a recognised teaching institution for the University of London, offering students resident

178

in Malta to pursue their studies for a Bachelor of Science degree in Accounting, Banking, Business Administration, Computing, eBusiness & Digital Marketing, Economics, Fintech, Games Design & Development, Human Resources, Information Systems, International Business, Management, Marketing, User Experience, Virtual Reality and Web Development with this globally renowned University as full time students or even as evening students whilst remaining in employment. The Institute has built a legacy of positive influence on hundreds of graduates who are following rewarding careers! And you, when are you going to turn your dream into reality and guarantee your future? Check us out on https:// www.stmartins.edu

Studied Locally Valued Globally

Saint Martinâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Institute of Higher Education Schembri Street, Hamrun, HMR 1541 2123 5451

www.stmartins.edu

179

ESPLORA PL ANETARIUM HALL, IL-K ALK ARA

12, 13, 14, 15 ta’ SETTEMBRU fit-8:30PM

addattament u direzzjoni ta’

MICHAEL FENECH

traduzzjoni ta’

CL ARE AZ ZOPARDI u ALBERT GATT

K U M M I E D J A A S S U R D A ta’ EU GÈNE IONESCO BILJETTI MINN KULTURA.MT · TE ATRUMALTA.ORG.MT

180

A telier

RINOÇERONTI ON STAGE

s part of Teatru Malta’s Proġett Klassiċi, a yearly initiative aimed at producing modern classics in Maltese, the National Theatre company will be presenting one of Ionesco’s masterpieces this September at the Esplora Planetarium hall in Kalkara! Rinoċeronti translated by Clare Azzopardi and Albert Gatt will be directed by Michael Fenech and is a translation of one of Ionesco's acclaimed plays and part of his Berenger cycle: Rhinoceros. This wide-eyed absurdist piece of theatre will deal with conformism, mass hysteria and alienation amongst other interesting motifs. Rinoċeronti will form part of the second

edition of the Proġett Klassiċi series titled Tliet Xogħlijiet ta' Eugene Ionesco edited by Marco Galea in collaboration with the University of Malta and will be published alongside Maltese translations of Ionesco's The Bald Soprano and The Lesson. Throughout this dark comedy it's apparent that something very absurd is going on, in a town where nothing absurd ever does. In this town, a very normal town, full of people who lead very ordinary, cereal box family sort of lives, something’s about to happen, something strange. But what happens when those people, those very same normal people you thought you knew so well, begin to change? Do you change too? Do you conform? Or do you dare to rebel? Rinoċeronti stars Daniel Azzopardi as Berenger the hero who is alternately frightened, defiant, desperate, frustrated, impotent, self-loathing, envious and ultimately completely unhinged by the looming "epidemic" in a way that is immediately relatable to audiences. The production also stars local favourites: Andre Mangion, Antonella Axisa, Kim Dalli, Naomi Said, Magda von Kuilenberg, Joe Depasquale, Anthony Ellul, Simon Curmi, Aaron Fenech and Daniela Carabott Pawley. Rinoċeronti will run from the 12th until the 15th of September at Esplora. For tickets and more information visit kultura.mt or call 21220255.

181

AN EYE FOR DETAIL Interview with John Hennequin, PHOTOGRAPHER

W 182

hile browsing through a magazine rack at a bookstore, I was immediately struck by the front cover of a food magazine. The shot was clean, sharp, bold, and with that touch only a person that lives and breathes photography can shoot. The image was not only about food but an explosion of ideas and colours which perfectly fit together to create such an amazing piece of work. The author of such work is a French photographer, John Hennequin who recently took the bold decision to move to Malta where his mother lives.

A telier

183

John is smart, sharp and with that distinct charm only a French person has. An influencer recently defined John as "a human being dripping with talent. A true artist from head to toe." Indeed John is an undisputed talent with a unique skill to turn every photo shoot into something great, amazing and simply breathtaking. His portfolio is incredible with stints in leading entities in the fashion industry including; L'OrĂŠal, CHASSEUR magazine and first luxe magazine. His strength lies in portraits which critics have often noted, "he crafts with the grace of renaissance painters." It's literally hard to tell whether his portraits are alive or not. Every shot is incredibly well taken and his use of shades and colours is simply astonishing. A blogger recently noted that John "interprets the light and the dark, the tonality and the relationships between the colours, the compositions and the general ambience in a way that only he can. He is the Vermeer of photography." He truly is and his almost cinematic compositions and the movement in his photos brings the subject matter to life, creating a tangible sense of vulnerability.

184

A telier

Yet John's strength lies also in food photography. Food means so much to him. It means colour, it means form, it means detail and above all, it means creativity. Every dish John is called to shoot is a story for him to discover. Every shot focuses on detail with an emphasis on colours which are never too little or too much. His food photos also stress on motion which is visible either in a broken piece of parmesan cheese, the position of a fork or a half cut red pepper. What impresses most is John's ability to bring all elements perfectly together. John has now set his focus on Malta where he has been living for the past months. It was love at first sight. He is impressed by what the island has to offer from a historical, architectural, artistic and societal point of view. Indeed, the island offers so much material for his photographic lens. Besides the potential the island offers to him, Malta is a perfect place for John to develop his professional goals he has set for the coming years.

185

capturing moments Interview with Stefan Varga, Focus By Mr V - Photographer

186

tefan Varga or as he is more commonly known, Mr V does not just take photographs, he literally immerses himself in what his lens comes across. Every photograph is not static but alive offering a snapshot into the people, the places and the environment that surrounds us. Indeed, Mr V captures the extraordinary in the everyday. Mr V is regarded by many as a pure talent with a unique ability to translate a story or mood in his images thus giving photographs a different dimension. Mr V takes us through his journey in the world of photography, he shares with us how he found his niche, and his plans for the future.

A telier

187

At what point in your life did you feel photography would be your career path? I was working in London in an office job I didn’t particularly like, but I have somehow accepted my “fate” of being stuck in it for eternity. When I was young I wanted to be an actor, which didn’t really work out as I was made to believe that anything creative wasn’t a “proper way” of earning money. When I replaced my bridge camera with a very first DSLR, I discovered how much more I could do with it and it wasn’t long before I started taking photos for friends. I shot my first wedding in 2013 but as London had lots of very strong competition in this particular field, I pursued photography only as a hobby for the next 5 years. What encouraged you to move from your hometown in Lučenec to Malta? When I was attending high school in Slovakia, it was common for most of the kids to work abroad mainly Germany, Austria and the UK during summer holidays or as a work experience during the school year. I have spent 3 months in Germany when I was 17 and I wanted to improve my English so UK was the right choice when I finished my studies. I have spent 11 years there, most of them in London and

188

made a Maltese friend Lorenza, who invited me to her wedding in 2015. It was my first time visiting Malta and have fallen in love with the island and its relaxed way of life immediately. A year later a friend of mine and her husband relocated to Malta permanently so I visited them a few times. I was inspired by their move mainly because I saw how different their lifestyle has become and how well their business was doing. In 2017 whilst on my holiday in Malta, I decided to leave the UK and I have given myself eight months deadline to organise everything and leave the UK for good. I feel like I have finally started living since I moved here; I made lots of amazing friends who helped me, introduced me to new contacts and thanks to them my photography business began to grow at a very fast pace. My only regret was I didn’t do this sooner :)

How would you define your style? My style is documentary, I capture moments the way they happened in the environments natural way. I see very little point in trying to make the scene look artificially perfect, for me it is is perfect the way it is. I prefer to capture the chaos, the stress, the disorganisation (at times) because that way the

A telier

Photo taken alongside Kris Micallef

189

190

A telier

photograph becomes more interesting. For me even empty wine bottles in the background and clothes on the floor tell a story. I tend not to over edit, I prefer to use light and angles to bring the best out of every subject I photograph.

What makes a good photograph? A great moment, an emotional interaction, a story within a frame. Photography for me, is not about capturing technically perfect images. Photographer is someone who can capture a moment at the right place and time. Some of the most famous photographs in the history are imperfect. A good photograph is not about an expensive camera and lens, with photography you need to look at the bigger picture, pun intended :) What attracts your photographic lens? I try to look for new and interesting angles to capture the scene, especially if there is a good light and a great moment present. Many times they are already there in front of you. Almost like something in my head is saying “you need to take a photo of that”. This happens a lot in weddings, when you notice certain light or angle, or a bride with her veil in the wind and a perfect backdrop - that photograph is already created in your head. All you have to do is press the button for others to see.

Does summer have any impact on your photographic mood? Summer is one of the reasons I have moved to Malta as I could never get used to the UK grey and rainy weather most of the time. Although I don’t exactly spend every weekend at the beach, sunny days makes me happier. There are days like with any other job, you may feel a bit tired or you can’t be bothered, but the emotions of people during a wedding or an event make you want to do a good job and look for interesting things to capture.

Do you have any tips for an aspiring photographer who’s picking up a camera for the first time? Do not spend lots of money on an expensive camera and lens. Take whatever camera you have and push it to it’s limits. Go outside, take photos, try different angles. If you want to take photos of people, practice on your friends first. I have attended few beginners DSLR workshops which were helpful, however what I recommend the most, is working as a second shooter alongside already an established professional photographer. For me in particular, working alongside friend Kris Micallef in the past year has been invaluable, thanks to him I was able to create my portfolio, meet lots of contacts, evolve and improve my photography style; mainly the technical aspect of it. What's next for you? Photography is a journey, we never stop learning new things and techniques and I am still “evolving”. I am however working on a project called Everyday Heroes which will tell stories of LGBTQI individuals in Malta through a series of very intimate portraits.

191

192

Set sail. Capture the wind and take your business further. The €250million HSBC International Business Fund

For your business to grow, you have to embark towards ambitious destinations, but you can also encounter some challenges along your journey. The right kind of wind in your sails can make all the difference. HSBC will support your business to keep moving with the right momentum, and in the right direction. Wherever you’re going, we are with you throughout the journey. See how we can help your business grow with our €250million HSBC International Business Fund. Call us on 2380 8000 or visit www.business.hsbc.com.mt/hibf

Together we thrive

Approved and issued by HSBC Bank Malta p.l.c, (116, Archbishop Street, Valletta VLT1444), a public limited company regulated by the Malta Financial Services Authority and licensed to carry out the business of banking in terms of the Banking Act (Cap.371 of the Laws of Malta). (Ref No. 107732 – 07/2019)

GAIA & NINA Photo credit Luizaslens