Delicious 10 (Spring Edition) by Union Print

ISSUE No: 10

April 2018

Delicious SPRING EDITION

SPRING

ESSENCE Delicious

April 2018

DOK Malta • DOK Gozo Quality Certified Wines

Wines of Distinction DOK Malta • DOK Gozo IGT Maltese Islands dokmaltadokgozo dokmaltadokgozo.gov.mt 2

April 2018

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Editorial ISSUE No: 10

Food For

April 2018

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Thought

SPRING EDITION

SPRING

ESSENCE

he season of new beginnings is back. Fresh buds bloom, animals awaken and the earth seems to come to life again. Farmers and gardeners plant their seeds and temperatures slowly rise. Our sur-

roundings are full of bright colours which stem out of fruit and vegetables available during this time of the year.

Printing & Publishing: Union Print Co. Ltd, A41, Marsa industrial Estate, Marsa, MRS 3000 +356 25900200 Editor: Omar Vella delicious@unionprint.com.mt

You can cut all the flowers but you cannot keep Spring from coming. Pablo Neruda

Index: Courtesy of Byron Saliba Photos: We thank all contributers for providing photos and images Recipes: We thank all contributers for the recipes provided Advertising: info@unionprint.com.mt +356 2590 0200

pack the stalls of local markets. Chefs are spoilt for choice during the spring season and are encouraged to show their skills in the preparation of amazing dishes. Spring is a time of celebration. Many cultures celebrate the return of spring, the blossoming of nature or the rise of the vernal equinox. In Japan, the annual blossoming of cherry trees has become a significant national event. Cherry blossoms, or sakura, symbolize the transience of life, which is a major theme in Buddhism. People

Design: Ryan Bezzina design@unionprint.com.mt Front image: Courtesy of Cucina POP www.cucinapop.do Photography by Brambilla Serrani

Strawberries, asparagus, radishes, artichokes, and peas

of the Jewish faith celebrate Passover, which commemorates when the Jewish people were freed from slavery to Egypt, according to history. On the other hand, spring in many countries with a strong Christian tradition is marked This magazine is distributed for free with it-Torรงa. No part of this publication may be reproduced, or transmitted in any form without the prior consent of Union Print Co. Ltd. While we make every effort to make sure that the content of Delicious is correct, we cannot take any responsibility nor be held accountable for any factual errors printed.

by Easter. Unfortunately this will be a less happy spring with the loss of one of the major exponents of the local culinary industry. The Lord has called Charles Preca to entertain him with his culinary skills up in heaven. He will definitely be missed by all of us who had the opportunity to visit Tal-Familja Restaurant. His success will not be forgotten and I am sure his work will continue to flourish in the capable hands of his daughters. Sincere condolences go to his wife, daughters and family. I wish you all a pleasant read and a happy Easter!

Delicious

April 2018

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Delicious Daniel Grech Davide Oldani Bart de Gans Carlos Borg Cyprian Cassar & Matthew Agius Ramona & Roberta Preca Tiziano Cassar James Roy Oakley

Nicholas Cuomo Jonathan Brincat Jonathan Vassallo Markus Divinus

Zubeyir Ekicibasi

Maurits Van der Vooren

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Mark Borg Hany Harb Damien Wager Robert Cassar Brady Dalli Reno Spiteri Delicious

April 2018

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April 2018

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Mediterranean Beauty

FENNEL is a perennial, pleasantsmelling herb with yellow flowers. It is native to the Mediterranean, but is now found throughout the world. It is widely cultivated, both in its native range and elsewhere, for its edible, strongly flavoured leaves and fruits. Its aniseed flavour comes from anethole, an aromatic compound also found in anise and star anise, and its taste and aroma are similar to theirs, though usually not as strong.

The bulb, foliage, and seeds of the fennel plant are

Fennel leaves are used in some parts of India as leafy

used in many of the culinary traditions of the world. The

green vegetables either by themselves or mixed with other

small flowers of wild fennel (known as fennel â&#x20AC;&#x153;pollenâ&#x20AC;?)

vegetables, cooked to be served and consumed as part of

are the most potent form of fennel, but also the most

a meal. In Syria and Lebanon, the young leaves are used

expensive. Dried fennel seed is an aromatic, anise-

to make a special kind of egg omelette (along with onions

flavored spice, brown or green in colour when fresh, slowly

and flour) called ijjeh.

turning a dull grey as the seed ages. For cooking, green

Florence fennel is a key ingredient in some Italian

seeds are optimal. The leaves are delicately flavoured

and German salads, often tossed with chicory and avocado,

and similar in shape to those of dill. The bulb is a crisp

or it can be braised and served as a warm side dish. It may

vegetable that can be sautĂŠed, stewed, braised, grilled, or

be blanched or marinated, or cooked in risotto. In Israel,

eaten raw. Young tender leaves are used for garnishes, as

fennel salad is made of chopped fennel bulbs flavoured

a salad, to add flavour to salads, to flavour sauces to be

with salt, black pepper, lemon juice, parsley, olive oil and

served with puddings, and also in soups and fish sauce.

sometimes sumac.

It is a key culinary ingredient of many food cultures

Intense, sweet-smelling, and invigorating are the

in the Middle East, India and other countries such

words that probably best describe fennel. With its distinct

as Afghanistan and Iran. Fennel seed is also an essential

character, this ingredient has definitely gained a much-

ingredient of the panch phoron spice mixture and of

deserved reputation in the culinary world. It plays a key

Chinese five-spice powders.

role in our diet and is definitely worth having in your house.

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April 2018

Breaking

the Rules 8

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In the kitchen no colour, no ďŹ&#x201A;avour.

Interview with

Daniel

Grech Chef and Entrepreneur

W Chef Daniel Grech was ever too fond of. His work is a rule orking within conďŹ ned parameters was not something

breaker and brings together elements which generally do not walk together yet his magic touch makes them blend in like bread and butter. His strength is mainly in transforming conventional products like burgers, milkshakes and pastizzi into something innovative, amazing and unconventional. We had the opportunity to meet up with Daniel to discuss with him his food perspective and his upcoming projects planned for this year.

Credits Alan Saliba

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April 2018

PESTO

CLASSIC BASIL

SUN-DRIED TOMATO

A PASSION FOR PESTO

PESTO

ROASTED RED PEPPER

CHAR-GRILLED AURBERGINE

FIERY CHILLI

April 2018

Delicious Attard & Co. Food Ltd - Tel: 21 237555 â&#x20AC;¢ facebook.com/attardcofood

DANIEL GRECH

In what way are you defining gastro pubs in Malta? I’m redefining gastro pubs by bringing new dishes which includes fine quality food just like fine dining restaurants but in a casual flare style. What are the key elements for a perfect burger? A great bun, quality meat, perfect seasoning and great searing at a high temperature. As we say in the kitchen no colour, no flavour. I was struck by a recent post about your rough childhood. How did food help you find the way out of the tunnel? Food has a never-ending way of being expressed as it can be done in many different ways and variations. It has helped me discover many things which developed into a strong passion therefore it helped me to forget my past experiences and strive for perfection. Creativity and modesty are your motto. Why? Creativity is one of my mottos because it’s something that helps you think outside the box and the only way to be ahead of anyone is to be creative. Creativity is the key. Modesty is also important as no matter how successful or great you become you must never forget where you started and never put down others.

Do you have a unique flare for innovative dishes that exalts your creativity in the kitchen? Yes, by buying different kind of produce which I’ve never seen or done before. Also by tasting and cooking in different ways and using my vivid imagination. Some of your dishes brings out sweet and salt. How do you create a happy marriage between the two extremes? I achieve this by combining enough flavour to balance them out. This is done by putting the right ingredients and not over powering one or the other.

Tell us about your famous Kraken Crème Bru ˆlée. My famous kraken crème bruˆlée was an instant hit because its something different to the market. We use high quality free range eggs , local cream and amazing kraken dark rum. This gives it amazing spice and richness to the bru ˆlée. What make your fish and chips sought after? I’m proud to say that I think I have one of the best fish and chips on the rock since I use real fresh cod, Yorkshire Ale beer accompanied with house made tripe cooked thick chips, creamy mushy peas and my famous tartar sauce. What dish on your menus would you associate with spring? Spring calls for light dishes such as my Pan Seared Salmon or Chicken Royal and even my Duck Spring Rolls. The past years have been extremely busy with so many new projects and innovative food concepts. What novelties should we expect from you in the coming months? I am currently working on Malta’s first pancake house which will include amazing new sweet and savoury pancakes and also bringing new homemade sauces which people can buy and enjoy in the comfort of their home.

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DANIEL GRECH

Eggs benedict with crispy parma ham

SERVES

INGRIDIENTS 2 brioche buns 4 slices Parma ham 6 eggs yolks 4 tablespoons melted butter Pinch of salt and pepper 1 table spoon vinegar 2 eggs 5 grms rucola

METHOD  To prepare the hollandaise sauce, place a bowl over a bain-marie, add the 6 egg yolks and slowly include 4 tablespoons of melted butter. Whisk fast until they reach a creamy texture. Season the sauce with salt, pepper and a dash of white vinegar. Place a lid on pan to keep sauce warm.

 Cut the brioche bun in half and lightly toast. Place on a plate when ready.  Fry the Parma ham with some oil in a medium skillet over medium-high heat until crispy.  Fill a large saucepan with 3 inches of water. Bring water to a gentle simmer and then add the vinegar. Carefully break two eggs into the simmering water and allow to cook for 2 ½ to 3 minutes. Yolks should still be soft in centre. Remove eggs from water with a slotted spoon and set on a warm plate.  To serve, place the brioche bun half on a plate. Top the brioche with a warm slice of crispy parma ham. Place the warm poached egg on top. And then drizzle on some warm hollandaise. Close the bum. Add rucola to the plate.

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ATaste Matter

April 2018

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Interview with

Davide

Oldani Michelin-Starred Chef & Creator of Cucina POP

avide Oldani, is not a normal talent. He is the author of the famous CUCINA POP, a concept which creates a happy marriage between quality and accessibility. His restaurant Ristorante Dâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;O, in his hometown of Cornaredo in the province of Milan is his laboratory where he constantly creates amazing creations which have earned him a reputation as one of the leading chefs in the culinary industry. Indeed, one year after opening, the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most authoritative food guides counted him amongst the greatest chefs of contemporary Italian cuisine. Chef Oldani is not only a great chef but also an amazing designer whose work is internationally acclaimed for its originality. Notwithstanding a very busy agenda, Chef Oldani accepted to share with us his experience in the food industry and what inspires his creative flair both as a chef and as a designer.

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DAVIDE OLDANI

one of them, yet I would also mention Alain Ducasse, Pierre Hermé and Albert Roux.

What encouraged a very promising football player to seek a career in the food industry? Football was my first dream and at the age of sixteen, I was already playing in the Italian third league yet later nursed a new dream. My mother’s amazing dishes made me quickly fall in love with the world of food and played a fundamental role in my decision to study at a culinary school. I still fondly follow football yet do not feel any particular desire to practise it. I also do practise sport to keep fit and enjoy promoting the concept of cooking combined with sport. Your cuisine is often described as “Cucina Pop”. What is it? Cucina Pop was born from my desire to combine simplicity with well-made, delicious with accessible and innovation with tradition. Seasonal ingredients and exceptional quality are the two cornerstones of my cuisine. To these two principles I have added a third, that guides me in the preparation of every dish: the search for harmony and the equilibrium of contrasts, that for me is not only the promise of sweetness in something savoury or an idea of saltiness in something sweet, but it is also the harmonious coexistence of everything that stimulates the palate in every dish: soft, crunchy, hot, cold, sweet and bitter. Who was your mentor? I had the honour to have more than one mentor who helped me develop my culinary skills. Certainly Gualtiero Marchesi is

What is the essential ingredient in a kitchen? I would definitely say passion. It is a fundamental element for any kitchen to perform. I recently read that your restaurant has been the subject of a case study at Harvard and in the economics courses of universities in Paris and Bologna. What is so special in your restaurants business model? My restaurant reflects my approach to life. The key rule is to always respect your customers and the people who work with you. You are also a great designer. Can you tell us more what inspires your design work? My designs are inspired from my guests and their habits. Tables, chairs, dishes, tableware and glassware are inspired by the POP cuisine philosophy: simple, functional, elegant. What does spring mean to you? It means an explosion of colours and flavours which come together in various dishes we prepare during this time of the year. What would be your word of advice for prospective chefs? The best advice I can give is to put a great effort in what they are doing and to listen to their parents.

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GRush old

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credits to Paul Rozenbeerk

What attracted you to the world of pastry? The beauty of our profession is in the opportunity it offers us to create from honest basic ingredients many beautiful products each with its own distinct character and form.

Interview with

Bart de

Gans

Chocolate & Pastry Chef at Perfri

hocolate and pastry are a serious matter for Chef de Gans is considered to be one of the major exponents of the chocolate and pastry industry. His work is a state of art and

connotes his passion for the sweet industry. His work also conveys his maniacal search for the best ingredients which he believes are fundamental for the creation of amazing products. Indeed, the way Chef de Gans chooses his ingredients and his respect for ingredients and technique is impeccable. His amazing approach has not gone unnoticed and is today a member of the Dutch PĂ˘tisserie team, was awarded the title of best bonbon in 2012 and is a leading judge at national and international trade competitions. Chef de Gans shared with us his experience in the sweet industry and his projects for the future. He also gave us an insight on his interpretation of spring from a sweet perspective.

In what way do you feel such a profession is rewarding? If you learn the profession in the proper manner, you will be able to grow and achieve a lot in this industry. It is all about your ability to learn and apply your skills in a proper manner. You stress on the need to use honest and pure ingredients. In what way do they distinguish the quality of the final product? Using the best ingredients determines the final outcome. However it also boils down to having the right knowledge and application. All elements combined together ensure a good final product. What does chocolate mean to you and how does it help you express your creativity? Chocolate fascinates me as there are endless possibilities how you can transform the product. It will never bore you and that is why it is extremely suitable to show your creativity in artistic sculptures and countless creations in pralines and pastry. You are a member of the Dutch PĂ˘tisserie Team. What do you seek to achieve in such a role? The Dutch Pastry Team is a young dynamic, enthusiastic team of highly trained pastry chefs with international experience who through creativity, energy, innovation and ambition elevates the pastry profession to art and a true delight. As a result, the Dutch Pastry Team wants to give the sector a better image and enthuse the youth for the traditional and refined pastry. Tell us about your achievement as winner of the best bonbon of the Netherlands in 2012? Participating in a competition is one of the best ways to

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Chocolate fascinates me as there are endless possibilities how you can transform the product.

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BART DE GANS

grow in your profession. It challenges you to innovate and develop new working technologies. With this mindset I won the best Dutch Praline award in 2012. With the praline ‘’Gold Rush’’ I convinced the jury with craftmanship. The praline is filled with a jelly of passion fruit with red pepper, a ganache with mango and mango vinegar and with a crunchy coconut in caramel. I wanted to give a unique finish to my Gold Rush project which I achieved by working in collaboration with a technical organisation named Fablab. We found a way to place the fined golden star on the Gold Rush using ‘’film risk’’. This element made the difference in design and the combination with the fillings the Gold Rush gave me literaly gold. How do you express spring in your work? Spring is the new beginning. It gives me a lot of energy to work with beautiful and fresh products. Also spring is a good time to challenge yourself and surprise customers with the newest trends.

What piece of work would you associate with the spring season? You can find the fun of spring in a particular dessert I have developed which consists of fresh mango combined with verbena tea, coconuts, elderberries and passion fruit. The dessert also includes various chocolate structures that creates a beautiful balance. The fresh colours and flavours gives me a harmonious composition which reminds me of spring. What does your work Hanging Garden represent? Hanging Garden is a dessert to share. My source of inspiration were the hanging gardens of Babylon. Also sharing is a new trend. With this dessert, you end your dinner with a ‘’wow’’. It is created from original chocolate and a various of chocolate structures alternated with fresh fruit and flowers which serve as beautiful and appropriate condiments. Any plans for the future? My ambition is to develop my skills thanks to which I aim to win more pastry competitions and grow my own brand, Perfri.

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THE ARTIS

BAKER

143, St. Dominic Street, Valletta VLT1605 Email: info@nenuthebaker.com Tel: +356 2258 1535 22

April 2018

www.nenuthebaker.com Delicious

THE MEAT SHOP

Keith Farrugia THE MEAT SHOP

Stuffed Saddle

of Lamb with Crunchy Shallots, Fresh Garlic and Pancetta INGREDIENTS 1 boned Saddle of Lamb weighing approx. 1.5 kg, skirts removed (ask your butcher to do this for you) 2 rosemary sprigs 1 tsp olive oil 50 ml white wine vinegar

FOR THE STUFFING 25 g butter 4 banana shallots, finely chopped 2 garlic cloves, crushed 50 g pancetta cubes Small pack flat-leaf parsley, roughly chopped 6 sage leaves, torn 1 tsp grated lemon zest 50 g fresh white breadcrumbs 1 egg yolk

METHOD  First, make the stuffing. In a large pan, melt the butter over a gentle heat and add the shallots. Cook slowly for about 10 minutes until softened, then add the garlic and stir to combine for 1 minute. Turn up the heat and add the pancetta and a little seasoning. Cook until the pancetta is crispy and the shallots are tender and turning golden. Take off the heat, add the rest of the ingredients and stir to combine (it should not be too wet, as the stuffing should absorb some of the lamb juices when cooked). Set aside to cool.  Heat oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6. Lay the lamb saddle out on a board, fat-side down. Arrange the stuffing in a line down the middle, bring the sides up and roll into a large sausage shape so the stuffing can only be seen at the ends. Using string, tie the saddle, tucking the rosemary under the string, then rub with salt and a little pepper.  Heat the oil in a large pan over a high heat and place the rolled lamb in the pan to seal the outside, turning every minute or so, until golden – about 6 minutes. Remove from the pan and place in a roasting tin. Pour the vinegar over – this will help to crisp the skin – then cook in the oven for 1 hour. Before serving leave to rest for at least 10 minutes on a board covered loosely with foil.

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Piece

Cake of

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rom a very young age, Carlos was attracted to the world of pastry; something he strongly believes stemmed from the family’s catering business. Pastry is his source of inspiration and offers him the right platform to express his amazing talent. Indeed, Carlos has earned a reputation as one of the rising stars in the local pastry scene. He is considered by many food critics as very creative and visual oriented. Moreover, his work is impressively eye catching and colourful. Pastry Chef Carlos Borg, shares with us his passion for pâtisserie and takes us through the salient steps in his career. He also shares with us why does he find spring such an inspirational season.

Tell us a little bit about your journey to becoming the pastry chef you are today. I was destined to work as a pastry chef. As a little boy watching both my father’s and grandfather’s colossal confections, I aspired for a similar profession – that of a pastry chef, a skill which bonds us three together. As time went by I soon realized that my love for pastry was the way forward and I was geared to pursue in this career and become better. To date I have always kept one single thing in mind, that of always improving by putting in long hours and always pushing myself to be better than yesterday. I keep up to date with the current trends through social media and overseas training while learning continuously from my mishaps.

Interview with

Carlos

Borg Chef at Mannarinu Caterers

What is your pastry philosophy? I thrive to create an experience rather than a product. I do not want to be known as the guy who makes good cakes and awesome desserts, but I want to be the kind of chef that combines the diversity of tastes, visuals and creativity. For me going the extra mile is important believing that this experience should involve a connection with all human senses. Do you have any pastry chef heroes? My passion for food, especially for pastries was inspired by my father and grandfather. I look up

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April 2018

to them and they have influenced my skills from a very young age. When it comes to cake decorating I’m a big fan of Joshua John Russell, a multiple-time winner of international cake decorating competitions. He uses unique techniques and focuses on innovative ideas. He explains that there is no kind of right technique as long as you get the desired effect stating that at the end of the day one is looking for the best possible result, irrelevant to how one would obtain this or through which method is used. Another favourite is Amaury Guichon a very young and successful French pastry chef. The quality and technical perfection of his desserts and pieces have earned him the name he has today. He focuses on things that “have not been done before” and looks for surprise and originality in his work. Is there one ingredient that you enjoy working with? When it comes to cake decorating, my favourite ingredient would be modeling chocolate. Used like clay, this modeling chocolate can be molded into a variety of shapes that are not as easily performed with the softer fondant. Many people argue that they love cooking but they hate baking, because baking is so exact. To what extent do you agree? Superficially, cooking and baking seem to be different sides of the same coin. They both require various edible ingredients. They both require skill and knowledge and they both can create great pieces of art. The actual process of cooking and baking is very different. Cooking tends to be more free form and open to interpretation and improvisation and on the other hand baking is much more precise. To this extent I agree with what is being said. I happen to love both, baking at the end of the day gives you more satisfaction as in my opinion it is a harder skill to obtain. It’s all about finding the right amounts of ingredients, the best methods of incorporating them together along with proper temperatures. What are the most challenging aspects of being a pastry chef? From my point of view, I think time is the biggest challenge. There is so much to learn and so much to experiment on but so little time - I find it so frustrating but it’s true. Some projects require so much time but because of the limited time you can work on them

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CARLOS BORG it hinders you from reaching your full potential. Apart from this, every ingredient has its own story, with endless possibilities. You can go in so much detail but this requires so much time which isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t always possible and feasible. Therefore, many pastry chefs tend to specialize in a specific area. What are the main qualities needed in order to become a good pastry chef? Patience, creativity, eye for detail and dedication are the top qualities that define a good pastry chef. When it comes to desserts and cake design, loads of patience and attention to detail are crucial. A multi-tiered wedding cake with endless of handmade florals and petals require a lot of patience, time, skill and the right tools. Becoming over angry or frustrated may cause you to rush the process and compromise the integrity of the food therefore it is important for a pastry chef to remain calm and confident in any situation. Eye for detail is another must for a pastry chef. You must evaluate your finished product repeatedly to deliver your best and always learn from your previous mistakes. Often, intricate scrolling on wedding cakes and elaborate dessert platings require precision. As a pastry chef, you must be able to notice and correct any flaws before the item goes to the customer. The food industry is constantly evolving, and pastry chefs create new flavour combinations all the time. A pastry chef must have an innate sense of creativity to discover new and exciting dishes that will not only please a customerâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s palate but will help the chef earn recognition and respect in the culinary industry. Despite that, the Maltese are very traditional in their desserts, I enjoy being creative. Pastry chefs spend a number of years apprenticing in the field which includes the washing of dishes, prepping food for hours in the early morning, or cleaning up the kitchen late at night. To work your way up in the pastry field, you must be dedicated to your craft and willing to do the labour to learn the profession. What pastry would you associate with Easter? In a country like Malta, where food, season and tradition

go hand in hand, each time of year is marked by its own food. As Easter approaches, we prepare figolli a very strong Maltese tradition. Traditionally, these are delicious, soft and biscuit-like cakes. How does spring fit into your kitchen? What better way to kick off spring than some bright and delicious treats? I try using pastel colours, handmade sugar paste blossoming flowers and fresh fruit flavours using seasonal fruits such as strawberries and loquats. What is your next challenge? As explained earlier, as a pastry chef every day is a challenge. I am constantly working on my weaknesses and trying to improve my strengths. I think I would like to explore the culinary competition world, not only for the trill of the competition but to also expose myself to more competitors as I think that itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s healthy. It promotes growth in one self and encourages you to be more creative.

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& Sweet Salt

Interview with

Cyprian

Cassar Matthew

Agius

Co-Owners of Gyros & Churros

he former outlet known by many as the mythical White Arrow has a new name and new owners. The popular snack bar has been transformed into an eatery outlet which brings together the salt and sweet taste of Gyros and Churros. Cyprian Cassar together with his alltime friend and well-known local tattoo artist at Paolaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Skinlabel, Matthew Agius, made sure an idea which crossed their mind some months down the line developed into one of the hottest places on the island. Notwithstanding a very busy agenda, Cyprian Cassar and Matthew Agius gladly accepted to share with us what lies behind Gyros and Churros, what to expect when paying a visit to the outlet and what specialties to look out for.

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Whenever someone tastes our food, he gets immersed in many great flavours, spices and elements

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What encouraged you to invest in your very own eatery outlet? Matthew and I have always shared a passion for new ideas, and after discussing together we decided to embark on this journey in this food industry. We both fell in love with the concept of the restaurant and even took care of everything ourselves from scratch! What lies behind the name Gyros & Churros? Gyros (and by the way we pronounce it Yee-ros!) originated from Greece. For cultures like the Greeks and the Cypriots, the gyros is a tasty pita wrap with many delicious ingredients. Churros on the other hand, are a Spanish sweet delicacy. Both are very specific types of food that anyone who has visited such countries knows about them. They are recognisable and pretty famous concepts. So, it wasn’t very difficult for us to settle on that title for our business. Both are very unique to Malta, so it’s nice that we get to know and learn about different cultures through such food! What lies behind Gyros and Churros then, is a crazy, energetic team of individuals ready to cook and share the amazing fusion tastes with you! Your outlet has been defined as a fusion restaurant. Can you tell us about the style of food? All across Europe you will come across adaptations of Gyros dishes and Churros as well. We loved both the concepts of the Gyros and Churros. We travel a lot so we have tasted and seen many great ideas on that. So, upon our decision to start our restaurant we felt the need to fuse these flavours, these ideas, these memories. So whenever someone tastes our food, he gets immersed in many great flavours, spices and elements. We don’t just want them to eat, we want people to taste. Is there any specialty we should look out for? We offer more than one specialty that you need to try out for sure! Our own Chef has created specifically spiced meat chucks for several Gyros options, such us the Burger Gyro, Boss Gyro, Smokey BBQ Gyro and more. The original flavours are there as well but for sure

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Good Earth Food Stores making every bite healthier Since 1985, we’ve been working with leading suppliers of natural foods, bringing you quality ingredients from the four corners of the globe. You can find the complete range of Good Earth produce, along with specially selected health food brands, in our dedicated food stores. Making every bite healthier, for you and for the planet.

St Julians, Balluta Pjazza B’Kara, Smart Supermarket (Outlet) San Gwann, Tal Balal Road Valletta, Is Suq tal Belt goodearth.com.mt ®

FOOD STORES 32

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our specials will amaze you. And do not forget to taste our loaded fries, an island’s first! A side dish with fries, served on a hot pan, sprinkled with amazing toppings such as Greek Feta Cheese, Fresh Onions, Cheese, Pulled Pork and other yummy ingredients! As for dessert, a rumour that happens to be true is that we have a Mermaid Elixir, a magical lemonade that sparkles in its elixir bottle! Obviously the Churros can be special, as special people are creating them for you! You choose your toppings, dips and glazes as we have more than a dozen for them! Your menu will include churros? The main idea behind this fusion was to put the spotlight on the dishes that are usually considered as sides. After a gyro and maybe some loaded fries, what sweeter way to end a meal shared with your closest buds,

than with some churros…? And the best thing is that you personalise them to your heart’s content with your preferred ingredients! So every Churro is unique! And the experience of eating a different one would be special made from you, every single time!

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All in the

Family Interview with

Ramona & Roberta

Preca

Ramona Roberta

Owner & Head Chef at Palazzo Preca Owner & Head Chef at King's Own Band Club & Restaurant

ehind every eatery outlet front door lies a story which patiently waits for food enthusiasts to discover. Every restaurant has its own memories, its own imprint and above its very own perspective of food. Hidden behind the majestic building of Malta’s laws courts just at the center of the legendary Strada Stretta lies a food outlet which teases my curiosity to know more about its story every time I dine there or simply pass by. I recently contacted the Preca family for a chat which they gladly accepted.

After struggling to find a parking slot on a busy Tuesday afternoon, I finally found my way to Palazzo Preca where I was greeted by Ramona and Roberta Preca who invited me to take a seat at the main table. The table was busy with various family members enjoying their daily lunch. I was immediately struck by the strong connection between food and the Preca family. Notwithstanding the setting of a typical 16th Century palazzo in Valletta, the place has that unique homely feeling which is offered by the selection of furniture, décor and above all pictures of the family visible in various corners of the outlet. Ramona tells me that “food always played a fundamental role in our family. The kitchen may be known as the heart of our h ome. In our busy, plugged-in and over-scheduled lives, eating meals at the table together is the time when we talk,

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share, and connect. Food acts as the medium by which we strengthen and nurture our relationships. Food is one of life’s greatest joys.” Roberta also notes that “Food is an integral part of our life. Our father lived in the kitchen, our sisters are involved in the business and our mother regularly enjoys reading though cookery books. I can fairly say that food is our language." As soon as they introduce themselves, we immediately struck a chord and found that we had a lot in common. Indeed we were all born under the same star. We are all Capricorns! Ramona and Roberta talk to me about their early steps in the kitchen. They fondly note that they spent much of their childhood ﬁddling in their father’s kitchen at the mythical King’s Own Band Club in Valletta. It was there that they learnt their ropes under the keen, imposing watchful eye of their father Charles, helping out in the kitchen. Ramona and Roberta continued to develop their culinary skills at

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Tal-Familja Restaurant in Marsaskala which was owned by their father. Ramona adds that “by our mid-twenties we had started to harbour our love for cooking and food. It was at this stage that me and my sister took the decision to open our very own restaurant, Palazzo Preca.” Whilst caressing the tablecloth, she admits that she was initially scared to death about her decision yet with the help of her sister and family together with the invaluable guidance of her father, she successfully found her way into the industry. She points out that “the eatery is a true testament to the drive and ambition of the two of us.” Roberta runs her own kitchen at the King’s Own Band Club. I go on to ask them inspires their culinary mind. They quickly note that “we get our inspiration from our father’s restaurants, from our visits to restaurants overseas, as well as from the internet. We are also inspired by seasonal produce.” I feel it natural to ask

RAMONA & ROBERTA PRECA Ramona and Roberta whether they have any point of reference who turns out to be the famous culinary wizard behind the renowned French Laundry and Bouchon Bistro, Chef Thomas Keller. Roberta comments that “I just love his approach in the kitchen. Moreover, his style is so unique and revolutionary. Every dish he prepares is a state of art.” I also ask them to tell me more about their style which they note is simple reflecting their humble origins. Ramona adds that their style also “reflects their mainstream of clientele.” Notwithstanding their simplistic approach in the kitchen, they managed to develop a style which people tend to recognize in every outlet run by the Preca family. I shift my interview on macro level and ask for their perspective of the food industry. They point out that “the industry is evolving at a very fast pace. The process of globalization has brought the world closer to our home thus changing our perspective of food and also increasing our accessibility to ingredients and food cultures we were previously not accustomed to. The industry has raised its bar and is more competitive which inevitably puts more pressure on us.” I specifically ask them whether they feel the culinary world is indeed a man’s world. They both concur with such statement yet note that the status quo is teetering. “A tide of women chefs is rising, en masse, to the top of their field and changing conventional restaurant culture. There have, of course, been women at the helms of kitchens for decades however; the few have become the many.” Since we are approaching the spring season, it is inevitable for me to ask Roberta and Ramona on how the season fits into their kitchen. Their blue eyes glow and both promptly note that “spring is an amazing

time of the year when nature renews itself. It is a time when bright colours and great flavours take their toll. It is a time of broad beans, artichokes, asparagus and strawberries. It is also a time associated with Easter. There is no Easter without some good roasted lamb.” It is time for me to conclude my interview yet before calling it a day; I felt the need to ask the Preca sisters a final question. I ask them for a word of advise for prospective chefs. Ramona quickly points out; “have a vision of what you want to achieve and work hard and listen to the people who have made it a success.” Her sister adds that “I think a lot of young chefs don’t realize it takes a hell of a lot of hard work. I see a lot of young chefs get disillusioned. You have to pick someone you are inspired by and follow their way.” I am impressed with what our country can offer and I am sure a new generation of aspiring chefs will look to Ramona and Roberta for inspiration and guidance as they forge their own paths.

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April 2018

RAMONA & ROBERTA PRECA

Oysters Kilpatrick Tempura Batter with Oysters INGREDIENTS 1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce Butter 4 slices bacon Rock salt & Freshly ground black pepper Garlic Chopped flat leaf parsley Lemon wedges (to serve)

METHOD  Preheat grill on medium-high heat. Place rock salt, in a thick layer, on a baking tray or shallow heatproof dish and arrange the oysters (in their half-shells) on top.  In a saucepan combine the Worcestershire sauce, the garlic and butter. Heat until the butter melts and the mixture begins to bubble. Remove from heat. Spoon the mixture on the oysters and top with the bacon. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Cook under a preheated grill for 5 to 8 minutes or until bacon is crisp. Sprinkle with parsley. Serve with lemon wedges.

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INGREDIENTS 100g Self raising flour Small jug of ice cold water Salt and pepper Medium size oysters Vegetable oil, for deep-frying

METHOD  Combine the flour in a bowl, add a pinch of salt and gradually mix in the iced water until the batter thinly coats the back of a spoon.  Shuck the oysters and lay them on a kitchen paper to dry. Heat the vegetable oil in a deep fat fryer or a heavy-based saucepan to 180C/350F. Dip the oysters in the batter and then carefully place into the hot oil in batches of 4-6, depending on the size of the oysters. Remove with a slotted spoon and transfer to a tray lined with kitchen paper. Keep warm in a low oven until ready to serve.

Sweet Tip Interview with

Tiziano

Cassar

PĂ˘tissier at Primavera Caterers Ltd.

What does spring mean to you from a pastry point of view?

After such a rainy, dull grey winter, itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s great having really bright and vibrant ingredients to work with. It is a time when one can source good ingredients at decent prices. Various fruits are at their prime offering a unique punch to every recipe they are added to. What should one keep in preparing spring desserts?

mind

when

Keep it simple and focus on the colours and flavours of fresh local ingredients. What ingredient is a must when preparing spring sweet delicacies?

It does not really boil down to any specific

ingredient. I would go for fresh local fruit such as strawberries, cherries, lemons and kiwis. Should we go for hot or cold desserts?

I would definitely go for cold desserts. They marry well with the pleasant hot temperatures we experience during this time of the year. Spring is associated with Easter. Is there any particular dessert you would recommend for an Easter Sunday lunch? I would recommend mini Strawberry Tarts. These sweet treats start with a pistachio crust. A dreamy mixture of cream cheese, lemon juice and zest, and whipped cream are folded together before filling the individual tarts. Toss the fresh strawberries in sugar, just before topping the tarts, to give them just a hint of added sweetness.

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TIP: This can be portioned into small portions, in this case cook for 15 minutes only. You can also use a pie pastry at the bottom of the fish if this is to your liking.

Fisherman's Pie FOR THE POTATO CRUST 1kg potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks 175ml double cream 100g butter (20g for the top) Nutmeg grinded 6 egg yolks

SAUCE Knob of butter 2 shallots, finely chopped ½ tsp fennel seeds, crushed 300ml fish stock 200ml vermouth 300ml double cream

PIE FILLING 200g fresh cod fillet cut in to 3cm pieces 150g fresh salmon fillets, skinless

cut into 3cm pieces 50g smoked salmon trimmings 100g mussels meat 150g local white prawns peeled, shell off 150g frozen peas 4 eggs, hard boiled and sliced A handful of fresh herbs such as parsley, dill, mint, basil finely chopped Juice of ½ lemon

METHOD  Boil the potatoes for 15 minutes until tender. Drain and mash with the nutmeg, cream, butter and some seasoning. Leave to cool slightly, then add the egg yolks and chill until ready for use.  While the potatoes are cooking, start the sauce. Heat the butter in a large pan. Add the shallots,

fennel seeds cook until the shallots are soft. Add the vermouth, let it bubble and reduce until there is a syrupy feel, this will take around 15 minutes. Add the stock and continue bubbling until the liquid has reduced by half. Add the cream and return to a boil for 2 minutes, then strain through a sieve and return the juice to the pan.  Heat oven to 180C Fan. Add the fish and seafood to the cream sauce and poach for 2 mins until just cooked. Add the peas, eggs and herbs, season with salt and pepper as for your liking and add the lemon juice. Portion the fish into a dish. Top with the mashed potato and rough up with a fork. Add bits of butter on the top. Then bake for 30 minutes until the top is golden.

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April 2018

AKitchen Forager's Interview with

James Roy

Oakley

Chef de Cuisine at Alibi – Wine Dine Be Social at Cordis, Hong Kong

n Englishmen has lately conquered Hong Kong with his amazing culinary flair and skills. Chef James Oakley’s work is exceptional and brings together Asian elements which are perfectly fused with classical French techniques. His work also conveys his strong interest in foraging, a style of cooking which he fondly seeks to promote and include in his work. Every ingredient present in his dishes is not left to chance. Every element has a key role to play and seeks together with other ingredients to propagate Chef Oakley’s belief that “food brings people together”. Chef Oakley shared with us his passion for food which took him from the cooking table of his beloved grandmother to the busy kitchen of Cordis in Hong Kong. He also shared with us his passion for foraging and the way it gives a special taste to every dish prepared.

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At a very tender age, you told your grandmother; â&#x20AC;&#x153;I want to be a chef!â&#x20AC;? What attracted you to the food industry? Firstly food itself, food is extremely important, whether we realize it or not we all have a deep relationship with food. It is necessary to eat to survive! We experience food multiple times on a daily basis, eating food I knew the pleasure that it gave me and I wanted to please people in a similar way, this is true service the desire to make people happy. Food is entirely sensory and cooking is more complex than we often care to realize, some of my fondest childhood memories are the smell of freshly baked bread and roasted joints from my grandmothers kitchen, those scents, flavours and the artistry really drove my passion for cooking. You like to eat Japanese cuisine, yet your favourite cooking techniques are classical French. In what way do you find a compromise with such a paradox? I personally would not consider this to be such a paradox, my love for Japanese cuisine is the complexity in its simplicity, the ability to get the best from your ingredients without over complicating. The flavours are incredible, extracting and exenterating the unami to create mouthwatering dishes. I was trained to cook using classical French techniques yet I do not feel my style is classical French. I like to take flavours that you would associate with different styles of cuisine and bring them together built on a foundation of classical French technique. In modern society travel is so accessible, people are more cultured and traveled than ever, people have such a diverse understanding of different styles of cuisine I believe it is important to diversify in the way chefs cook to represent this.

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You had the opportunity to work closely with leading Michelin-starred chefs such as Jeremy Medley. In what way have they helped you find your way in the industry? I have been extremely fortunate in my career to have worked not only with some truly amazing chefs but amazing people. When I first came into the industry I was 14 and at the age of 16 I moved away from home, away from my family to work full time. So some of these chefs I worked with, did not only teach me to cook but helped guide me from a boy into adulthood, none more so than Jeremy. Prior to working with Jeremy I had already worked at restaurant Gordon Ramsay at Claridgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s under Chef Mark Sargeant who is a fantastic chef and I really learnt great skills from day one. Jeremy though really took me under his wing. He was tough, very firm but he taught me, he imbedded into me the best lessons: to always move forward, do it right or not at all! He took the time to teach me everything he possibly could. I therefore owe Jeremy a great debt of gratitude. Another chef who has really had a massive influence on my career is Michelin starred Chef Richard Allen, such an incredible chef and person! I worked with Ritchie twice and was fortunate to be a part of the 3 man team in the year Ritchie gained his first star, his meticulous attention to detail is incredible, his food tastes amazing.

it is also more fresh for instance whilst I was working in Malta I used to pick wild fennel daily on my way to work each morning.

In a recent interview, you noted that your customers are â&#x20AC;&#x153;beautiful people with zest for life.â&#x20AC;? Can you elaborate on such statement? Working in restaurants within international five star hotels give you the unique opportunity to meet such welltraveled, culturally diverse people. The people I meet in the restaurant are always friendly and have some of the most amazing life stories to share.

You stress that foraged ingredients keep chefs on their toes. Why? Foraged ingredients keep us on our toes because we need to continuously adapt and evolve, we cannot dictate how and when wild ingredients will grow, we may have morel mushrooms today and tomorrow they are gone.

What attracted you to foraging and what is so special about it? When you forage for ingredients you obtain a greater understanding of the ingredient, its habitat and what it needs to thrive, you can take the ingredient at its prime,

What encouraged you to move to Hong Kong? Hong Kong has one of the most diverse and thriving food scenes in the world. I strive to challenge myself daily, the market here is extremely competitive and only the very successful survive. I want to grow and improve!.

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JAMES ROY OAKLEY

How does spring influence your style and mood in the kitchen? I am always happy in the kitchen. It is my home, I feel comfortable. In fact spring is my favourite time of year, the weather is warm but not too hot, the sky is bright and everybody seems to have a more positive mentality. This really makes me feel more creative. Which ingredient would you associate with this season? Well I am British and my favourite spring time ingredient is wild garlic. Any plans for the future? I am very focused on now; I love my current role in Alibi at Cordis Hotel. I believe if we are successful here, the future will all fall into place quite nicely.

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April 2018

S weet Gourmands 46

April 2018

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Interview with

Maurits Van der

Vooren Owner of Food Design by Maurits Van der Vooren

astry was always an important matter for Chef Maurits Van der Vooren. His time spent in his family’s bakery grew in him a passion for pastry and a determination to succeed in the industry. Many critics are impressed by his ability to transform sweet tooth pleasures into amazing work of art. His skill is impressive and every piece he develops plays on a fine line between what is defined as real and surreal. His work is also an explosion of colours and unique tastes which earned him a reputation as one of the rising stars in the pastry world. He recently answered a few questions for us on his journey in the world of pastry, his style of cooking and his projects for the future.

It is said that you learnt the profession of pâtissier on your mother’s knee. Can you tell us more about your first steps in Van der Vooren kitchen? When I was a child my grandmother baked beautiful things and cooked very well, I was always interested. My family had a bakery so I was also always there as a child. So I grew up with pastry.

credit to Maurice Fransen

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MASTER Set x 12 pieces Induction

INOXTHERM Set x 15 pieces Induction

How come you did not take over your family bakery? I was going to but I’m more interested in the food design, in the whole package of cooking but less in bread and bakery goods. How would you describe your cooking style? My cooking style is innovative and creative. I look at what is the craze of the moment and make something new out of it. I use crazy things like nitrogen or dry ice to make something look more spectacular. Besides tasting good, food must look spectacular in a restaurant. Who is your role model? I have 2 role models. They are Jordi Roca and Sergio Herman. You constantly stress on freshness. In what way do fresh products ensure the final product stands out of the crowd? A dish has to be both beautiful on a plate, and tastes excellent too. When you work with the best products the conditions are perfect. What flavours are you most faithful to? I cannot do without yuzu, vanilla and chocolate in my kitchen. What does spring means to you? When I see spring, I think about flowers coming out, birds, new fruits … More colour, more sun and more fruit like strawberries, raspberries and blueberries. This time of the year also reminds me of asparagus. In what way do you express spring in your work? In the Spring I use more fresh fruits for the desserts. And I use more herbs like basil and dill. I also use a lot of asparagus in my dishes.

24 Piece Cutlery sets (6 Spoons, 6 Forks, 6 Knives and 6 Teaspoons)

Starting from €35

You have often commented that strawberries are your favourite fruit. Why? I like the taste of the strawberry, their sweetness and their structure. You have a strong relationship with social media, especially Instagram. Why does it play such a key role in your work? I love to show the world what I make, and for me it’s also a confirmation that people like it. It also connects me with other chefs in the world. And it opens a lot of gates.

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MAURITS VAN DER VOOREN

I love to show the world what I make, and for me itâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s also a confirmation that people like it.

credit to Paul Rozenbeek

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Turkish

Delight

April 2018

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Interview with

Zubeyir

Ekicibasi Sous-Chef at Selectum Luxury Resort

Tell us more about your culinary journey growing up. How did you explore food and what were your favourite dishes? After graduating from Electrical and Industrial Vocational High School in 2005 (I was 17 years old), I’ve started working in the kitchen of a big German Chain Hotel in Antalya, in which my cousin worked as a cook. This was to satisfy my curiosity and enthusiasm for making food which was coming back from my childhood. Of course it was just the vegetable section of the kitchen for the beginning. The work I thought I would do for only 2 months became my lifestyle and then I decided to delay going to University and concentrate on cooking. This was also because the course I was to follow in university would have been something related to electricity again and it wasn’t what I wanted. After 14 months of working in the vegetable section, literally day and night, because there were many nights I slept in the kitchen, the German Coordinator of the chain hotel kitchens noticed me and placed me next to himself to work together. From that day on the doors of the culinary world were opened to me. Without paying any attention to the language barriers or age difference between us, we have done a great job of combining the old kitchen techniques with the new ones. At that point I became more committed to my curiosity and profession, and I knew that I was where I was meant to be. I do not have “my favourite dish” as my flavours changed as my palate and taste changed through the time. If I have to generalize it, I am a person who likes to eat and cook any kind of food.

oung, restless and explosive, Ekicibasi is now considered one of the rising stars of the culinary world. His work is the interpretation of perfection with a strong emphasis on detail and the use of vibrant colours. Every plate includes his signature purple colour which gives that wow element to his work. We caught up with the Chef Ekicibasi to discuss his attraction towards food, his muse in the kitchen and his projects for the future.

Who is your greatest inspiration in your cooking? If I had to use just one word, my biggest inspiration is my ‘mum’. But after getting more into it and making researches, I would say the Michelin Starred Chefs, who perform their jobs in the best way worldwide, are all of an inspiration to me. What are your favourite ingredients to work with? I am a person who does not distinguish between ingredients. In particular, there is no ingredient that I would call “the ingredient for me”, but I like “different kind of ingredients”. As I said, I’m a man who likes to do a lot of research and there are a lot of common ingredients in the world that are very difficult or even impossible to supply in Turkey, but I always try to find and supply them for myself. I enjoy discovering new products that I have never worked with before, discovering the texture, the smell and with what other ingredients they match. But I also like to add that I love to work with microsprouts and every other natural product that I produce myself.

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ZUBEYIR EKICIBASI There is a strong emphasis in your work on key colours such as purple. Why? I have to admit, I thought a lot about this question. Considering the issue of naturalness, there is a huge colour richness in the nature, mainly green, and each colour is very beautiful, but purple does not come out as often as the other colours in natural environments. I prefer purple because of its crucial feature that adds vitality and visibility to the plates. What role do aesthetics play in your work? I can say that this is one of the most crucial questions to ask a man who is obsessed with symmetry. The point of view towards the used ingredients is the most important thing at the beginning. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s take a baby radish as an example; some of the dishes get an aesthetic appearance, when the radishes are used as a whole, without making too many changes on it. But on some occasions it is necessary to slice that baby radish to catch an aesthetic image. So aesthetic is a variant thing, but of course it is the leading role on my plates. It is very important to affect the eye before tasting, because the first impression lies in the visuality.

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our mission

Our mission â&#x20AC;&#x153;Turn every break in an opportunity to get into a positive mindsetâ&#x20AC;?. Our goal at Sweet Amsterdam is to change the snacking habits of people by introducing the world to Organic, Gluten Free & Dairy Free Stroopwafels, Bars and Cookies. by introducing the world to Organic, Gluten Free & Dairy Free Stroopwafels.

April 2018

Delicious Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com

ZUBEYIR EKICIBASI You have often expressed your love towards French cuisine. How do you create a happy marriage between your Turkish roots and a French style of cooking? First of all, I would like to point out that each country has its own unique cuisine and I try to do as much research about them as possible. I, as a Turk, would also like to mention that we have a very old kitchen culture and tastes with its roots going back in history till the time of the Ottomans. I grew up with these tastes and met with the French Cuisine, especially their cooking techniques in the course of my researches that I was doing in my career. Uncovering the inherent flavours from the ingredients, the attention to the detail and the harmonization between the foods are just some of the main reasons that appeal to me in the French Cuisine. The techniques and flavours applied in the French kitchen, which are respected by the world, show how right they are doing it.

comes alive again to its true beauty after winter. Working with fresh products, achieved during this time of the year, gives me more reasons to create beautiful dishes. What dish would you associate with this time of the year? I have a lot of dishes that I can associate with spring among my plates. It is very difficult to choose just one among them, but for example I choose a salad plate called “Fresh Salad with a Purple Cabbage Lake”. This I made with the products and sprouts I obtained on a walk through the countryside, in spring of last year. What are your plans for the future? One of my plans is to represent my country internationally by combining the Turkish Cuisine with world Cuisines and introduce it to the World. And one of my biggest goals is to open my own restaurant one day and bring the first Michelin Star to Turkey.

You also tend to love working with molecular products. Why do you find molecular gastronomy interesting? I like the different presentations and styles of preparation. As an example; instead of pouring the sauce on a product, it is my pleasure to present the same sauce as a sphere on the product, by using molecular materials. That captures a different “aesthetic” as we mentioned above. It makes me love my job more to see the pleasant look on the faces of people who’ll eat the food, as well as that the dish goes out of the kitchen in a more appropriate way to affect the visuality. It is difficult to supply molecular materials under normal conditions in our country. But things that are difficult to obtain are more valuable in every sense. I love working with molecular material because it makes the usual products look very different. In what way does springtime fit into your work? I will describe the spring as the awakening of nature where all the products come out of the soil like they would run impatiently to meet the sun and also that everything

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April 2018

Interview with

Nicholas

Cuomo Executive Chef at the Emirates Golf Club, Dubai

ome people find their niche at home others earn a reputation abroad. After finding his path through the pots and pans of several leading eateries in Malta, Chef Nicholas Cuomo took the bold decision to move abroad. Notwithstanding a rough start, his determination helped him successfully establish himself as one of the rising stars in the Dubai food industry. Indeed, many critics consider Chef Cuomo as a young and passionate chef with an extensive background in the hotel industry in several countries. He is also respected by many for his culinary talent as well as his creative way he handles his team in the kitchen at Emirates Golf Club. Chef Cuomo shared with us his experience in the food industry and his plans for the future.

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Excelling

Abroad What attracted you to the food industry? My family's involvement in the food industry had an inevitable impact on my career path. My family also had a reputation for its artistic flair and my involvement in the industry is my way to extend our fame. I also owe my interest in the industry to a food and beverage director who was such an inspiration to me. The food industry also offered me the opportunity to connect with people. Indeed food offers me the possibility to entertain clients, to come across new tastes and to learn about other cultures. Very few jobs offer such an attractive package. At some point, you took the bold decision to move to Dubai. What encouraged you to work abroad? Whilst working for a big international chain in 2004, I came across and executive chef and food and beverage director who helped me develop further my culinary skills. We got to know each other well and their guidance was pivotal for my development. When later on, they were moved to Dubai,

they encouraged me to follow them which I did. Since then, I never looked back. The first months in UAE were tough. Why? It was mainly due to the multicultural work force and the very big culture shock that I experienced. The work force is predominantly Asian so there was a lot of understanding and getting used to new manners and habits and making sure that no one gets offended. How would you define your cooking style? I define my cooking style as mostly French to Mediterranean however being in the region for 11 years I do have a very big Asian and Middle Eastern influence in all I do. How do your Maltese roots transmit themselves in your work? I would say in the character. It is where it comes out most in the form of friendliness to the client and the strong headiness in moving forward and never giving up.

What does spring mean to you in gastronomic terms? Luckily for us we get 2 springs as we benefit being in the center of the northern and southern hemisphere so we really enjoy products all year round. Surely this is the best time of the year for the abundance of produce and the peak of flavours. This time brings out the explorer in me and make me create much more. What food do you associate with this time of the year? Mostly fish, seafood and other ingredients from the sea. What is next on your agenda? Dubai is hosting the Expo 2020 so there is much happening. We as a company have so many things lined up and being part of the team is a great pleasure. In April I will also be involved in Golf Kitchen a prestigious event which features guest chefs from some of the most prestigious Golf Clubs and Resorts in the USA and Mexico.

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April 2018

IN Pursuit of

Perfection

Interview with

Jonathan

Brincat Chef de Cuisine and Co-Owner at Noni Restaurant

credits to Brian Grech 58

April 2018

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fter serving the crowds of several prestigious eateries in Malta and abroad, Chef Jonathan Brincat has made his home at Noni, in Republic Street, Valletta. Jonathanâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s work is impressive and highlights his culinary flair and sharp eye for detail. His style of cuisine is described by many as modern yet with a classical touch primarily using local seasonal ingredients. Indeed, every dish prepared at Noni is a work of art which exalts the beauty local seasonal produce. Jonathan shared with us his thoughts about the food industry and his plans for the future.

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April 2018

EACH PROTEIN CRUNCHY RYE BREAD CONTAINS

Inspiration can be a strange beast; it comes when you least expect it.

EACH PROTEIN CRUNCHY RYE BREAD CONTAINS

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com.mt 60

April 2018

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JONATHAN BRINCAT

How did your culinary journey begin? I must say that my love for cooking started at a very young age watching my mum at work in the kitchen. Nevertheless, my culinary journey began at the age of 15. It started in a local hotel as a commis. What lies behind the nickname “Noni”? Noni was my grandfather’s nickname. He had a shop in Msida called “Noni” and it eventually ended up being my own nickname. It somehow stuck and that’s how I am known. You had the opportunity to work with Chef Gary Hollihead. In what way has such an experience helped you develop further your culinary skills? Working with Gary Hollihead was a great experience. He made me look at food from a different perspective we were generally accustomed to in Malta. He used to emphasise mostly on sustainability and freshness of the ingredients selected. He also had a straight forward plating approach which gave the ingredients selected and their flavours the possibility to stand out. This is a philosophy that I still adhere to. Where do you get your inspiration? Inspiration can be a strange beast; it comes when you least expect it. Inspiration can spark from a walk out in the countryside, or at a local kaÿin whilst having a cup of tea (which is incidentally where I got my inspiration for my dessert called “Te Fit Tazza”). Nevertheless I am generally inspired from ingredients in their own environment. Who was your biggest inspiration in the kitchen growing up? I consider myself very lucky because I have more than one inspirational figure in my life. I worked alongside very good head chefs both locally and internationally but I must admit that my biggest inspiration is my mum as she is the only person who manages to cook amazing food with whatever she has available. She always does an excellent job.

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April 2018

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JONATHAN JONATHAN BRINCAT BRINCAT

René Rendzepi once noted that, “Chefs have an opportunity and perhaps even an obligation to inform the public about what is good to eat and why.” To what extent do you agree? I perfectly agree with Chef Rendzepi. This obligation is part of our job and we must inform people about the origins of food. Sadly, nowadays, we eat food of which we have no idea of its origins and how it was cooked. What do you love most about spring? Spring is one of my most favourite seasons. Besides from the amazing fresh produce we have access to, there is special sweet smell in the air which starts around April and which make me feel ecstatic.

What is your “go to” dish to take along to a family Easter lunch? Family meals do not depend on just an occasion. I always choose pork, either a nice piece of belly or any other cut. This seems to always do the trick and have everyone fighting over the crackling. What word of advice you would give to someone wanting to become a chef? Work hard, keep your mouth shut and your eyes open, read a lot of books, show up every day in the kitchen, respect everyone around you and definitely taste everything.

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April 2018

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Dr. Z. Teebi

is a Medical Consultant with a special interest in Allergy. Hu studied and graduated from the Imperial College London (UK). zteebi@gmail.com

Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS)

rritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS) is a disorder of the intestines. It causes belly pain, cramping or bloating and diarrhoea or constipation. IBS is a long-term problem, but there are things you can do to reduce your symptoms. IBS is quite common, but most people’s symptoms are so mild that they never see a doctor for treatment. Your symptoms may be worse or better from day to day, but your IBS will not get worse over time. IBS doesn’t cause more serious diseases, such as inflammatory bowel disease or cancer We are still not clear what causes irritable bowel syndrome. The cause may be different for different people. IBS may be caused by problems with the way signals are sent between the brain and the digestive tract, problems

digesting certain foods, and stress or anxiety, hormonal changes and some antibiotics may trigger pain and other symptoms. People with IBS may have unusually sensitive intestines or problems with the way the muscles of the intestines move. Many people with IBS alternate between having constipation and having diarrhoea. For most people, one of these happens more often than the other. Because there are no structural problems in the intestines of people who have IBS, some people may think this means that the symptoms “are all in their head.” This isn’t true. The pain, discomfort, and bloating are real. In some cases, you may need some tests, such as stool analysis or blood tests. These tests can help your doctor rule out other problems that might be causing your symptoms.

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Main Symptoms:

Symptoms outside the belly:

Changes in bowel movement patterns (frequency, constipation, loose stools) Bloating and excess gas; sometimes with severe cramps. Pain the lower tummy. Mucus in stools. The chances are that you maybe suffering from IBS if you have these symptoms and they have lasted at least 6 months, you have had abdominal pain at least 3 days each month for at least 3 months, and at least two of the following are true: The pain is relieved by having a bowel movement. The pain is linked to a change in how often you have a bowel movement. The pain is linked to a change in the appearance or consistency of your stool.

IBS can sometimes cause other symptoms that donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t affect the intestines, such as: Anxiety or depression. Fatigue. Headache. Bad taste in the mouth. Backache. Sleep problems (insomnia) Sometimes pain during sex or reduced sexual desire. Heart palpitations. (You may feel like your heart skips a beat or is fluttering.) Urinary symptoms. (You may have a frequent or urgent need to urinate, trouble starting the urine stream, or trouble emptying your bladder) Symptoms often occur after a meal, during stressful times, or during menstruation. Prevention In general it is difficult to prevent irritable bowel syndrome (IBS). But proper self-care and leading a healthy lifestyle may help ease symptoms. Always try to see if you can identify a treatable cause of IBS. Avoiding foods that make symptoms worse can make a significant difference in improving this condition.

Bowel movement changes: When you have IBS, your pattern of bowel movements may change over time. Two or more of the following may happen: Bowel movements may occur either more often (diarrhoea) or less often (constipation) than usual. Bowel movements may differ in size or consistency. They may be hard and small, pencil-thin, or loose and watery. The way stools pass changes. You may strain, feel an urgent need to have a bowel movement, or feel that you havenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t completely passed a stool.

Dr. Teebi is a Medical Consultant with special interest in Allergies and Allergy Therapy. He studied allergy medicine and graduated from the Imperial College London.

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The genteel art of candy making may well be classed among the ďŹ ne arts, for it is an accomplishment of which anyone may be proud. Dame Curtsey

BONBONS 68

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veryone loves sweets; some may like them too much. Candy is known by many names the world around and it has delighted people for millennia. The ancient Turks were said to be the ﬁrst candy makers, using honey and rosewater as their favoured ingredients. There are countless varieties of confections, but one of the easiest (and in my mind most enjoyable) places to start is with bonbons, which is the French for “goodies.” Bonbons were very popular in the 15th century and were voraciously consumed by housewives, divas, and goddesses everywhere until they were in danger of extinction in the 1600s. After a short impasse, bonbons made an impressive return in the late 1700s when Marie-Antoinette told the French peasants: “let them eat cake.” The French were so furious that they refused to eat cakes and began to eat sweets in abundance. The interest in bonbons continues to grow thanks to the work of leading pastry chefs such as Antonio Bachour. On the local front, Chef Byron Saliba has over the past months been experimenting with various shades and shapes of bonbons. His work is impressive and a pleasure for eye. We asked Chef Byron a few questions on his recent work on bonons. Bonbons are easy to make and lend themselves to a myriad of ﬂavours, recipes, and presentations. We asked Chef Byron Saliba a few questions on the art of bonbons.

What inspired your interest in bonbons?

I was always fascinated by the versatility of chocolate. I try to see chocolate from various angles and constantly seek to highlight its beauty and richness by presenting it in various forms. I always loved bonbons and has recently started to experiment with various shapes and ﬂavours. It is impressive what ﬂavours you can hide under a small chocolate shell.

Where do you find the creative inspiration for your bonbons?

I am inspired by diﬀerent elements. Art is everywhere and that is why I invest a lot of time re searching for new techniques and ideas. I also attend numerous events and courses which help me develop further my skills. I like the way colours get infused together to create impressive work of art. Who are your role models in this niche sector?

In the sector of bonbons follow a lot Melissa Coppel one of the top chocolatiers in North America. I like the way she combines ﬂavours and design on each and every chocolate bonbon. Do you have any favourite bonbon design?

I have one particular design which I get inspirtation from the fashion industry. It is an infusion of colours set on a white backdrop. The design is complemented by three key ﬂavours. I must say, I was really impressed with the ﬁnal result. How would you define spring in a bonbon?

After the gloomy of winter, spring brings to the scene that much desired bright and fresh feel. A spring bonbon will have a fresh taste balanced with a citrus ﬂavour and a shiny red infused colour for its shell. The aim of such bonbon is to fuel desire through enriched ﬂavours that seek the pleasure of those eating it.

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SERVES

12 minutes preparation 10 minutes cooking

alsamic Vinegar enhance the flavour of strawberries, especially when it is combined with a sweet syrup. And with a mascarpone light whipped ganache you have the perfect healthy and rich dessert.

INGREDIENTS Chef Byron Saliba

Strawberries with Balsamic Syrup and Mascarpone Whipped Ganache

350 g fresh strawberries 50 g sugar preferably caster sugar 5 tablespoons balsamic vinegar 150 ml whipping cream 180 g mascarpone cheese 100 g white chocolate 2 tablespoons icing sugar 1 lemon 1 small handful basil hearts

METHOD  Remove the green top of the strawberries and the core, slice and place in a large bowl.  Place the sugar and the balsamic vinegar in a small sauce pan over a medium heat and let simmer. Cook for 5 minutes until the volume is reduced by half.  Place 80 ml cream together with the mascarpone and gently heat the ingredients and add the chocolate. Place in the refrigerator and the next day put into a mixer and whip together with the remaing whipping cream.  Spoon the strawberries into the desired bowl, drizzle with the balsamic vinegar and on top pipe the mascarpone cream with a nozzle and garnish with few basil hearts and grated zest of lime .

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April 2018

Interview with

Jonathan Vassallo Chef Patron at Capo Crudo

n the shores overlooking the breathtaking view of Marsamxetto Harbour lies Capo Crudo. Recognised for its quality, glamour and style the place offers a unique gastronomic experience which highlights the impressive talent of Chef Jonathan Vassallo. Jonathan is indeed a culinary genius who amazes clients with his creative abilities. His work is a state of art which takes ingredients to their limits yet keeps intact the purity and beauty of local natural

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produce. Jonathan has spent the better part of his life working in some of Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s top restaurants and achieving numerous awards. Talking to him, I could see that he has been through his paces in the kitchen and has accumulated a wealth of experience in his profession. He has faced the pressure, gone through the ups and downs and worked harder than many people ever will. In short he has led a life that all successful chefs of his calibre have to face in their journey to the top.

You have recently been voted chef of the year. What does such a prestigious title mean to you? It is amazing feeling! It makes me better understand that many people appreciate my passion, my flair, and my drive in the kitchen. It also acknowledges the fact that my work does stand out of the crowd in some way or another.

A word of advise to prospective chefs? Passion is a fundamental ingredient for any chef. Without it, you will not succeed. You need listen and learn from your own mistakes. Practice makes perfect. You also need to understand that the food industry is a very challenging sector which at times can lead you to exhaustion. It is all about having a strong character and a will to reach the set goals. The rest will fit in its place as you go along.

What attracted you to the culinary industry? My father was a key figure in this journey I started some years down the line. I was always impressed by his love for food and his very professional approach in the kitchen. I was also impressed by his ability to handle pressure. It was during that time I spent among pots and pans that my interest towards the food industry developed. I wanted to follow my fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s footsteps and excel in the industry. Is there any particular ingredient you would not do without? I am spoilt for choice when it comes to ingredients. My kitchen is packed with all sorts of ingredients, each offering a unique touch to every dish they are added to. Nevertheless, the sea plays a major role in my kitchen with all the ingredients it offers. What should one expect when dining at at Capo Crudo? Every guest is entertained with the finest products cooked in a simple manner that exalts their freshness, flavours and the beauty of natural produce. Every dinner is enjoyed in a unique setting which offers breathtaking views. We also commit ourselves to a high quality service which ensures every guest is pampered in the best possible manner. Do you have a signature dish or one you are particularly proud of? I will definitely go for our Royal Platue. It consists of four types of raw fish, three of which are square cut and plated in the form of a mosaic. This dish requires a lot of time and patience to prepare, but it is a piece of art. How does spring fit into your kitchen? Spring is a time of colour, fresh ingredients and lots of fish. Spring exalts our creativity which is reflected in the dishes prepared in our kitchen.

Credits Alan Saliba

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DELIVERY | TAKE-OUT | HALAL | VEGETARIAN 2 HOURS FREE PARKING FULLY AIRCONDITIONED 74 April 2018 elicious WWW.SHAKINAHMALTA.COM

CALL US +356 2731 8000 / +356 7731 8000 VISIT US 5, GORG BORG OLIVIER STREET, ST. JULIANâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S, MALTA EMAIL US BOOKING@SHAKINAHMALTA.COM GET IN TOUCH FACEBOOK.COM/SHAKINAHMALTA

Chocolate Peanut Butter Cup Cakes

Makes 10 – 12 Cup Cakes

BYRON SALIBA

INGREDIENTS 125 g butter 125 g brown sugar 2 eggs 40 ml butter milk 100 g self-raising flour 30 g cocoa powder 25 g salted peanuts crushed 30 g chocolate chips Butter Cream 190 g white fondant 225 g white butter 300 g peanut butter

METHOD  Preheat the oven to 145 degrees Celsius.  Cream the butter and sugar together until light, add the eggs one by one and then the butter milk until all is combined.  Sieve the flour together with the cocoa butter and fold into the mix. Fold the peanuts and chocolate chips and using a piping bag and spoon, pipe the mixture into baking cases three quarters full.  Bake for 20 to 25 minutes.

FILLING  Place the fondant, butter and the peanut butter in a mixer with a beater and mix until light and fluffy.  Pipe the cup cakes with the butter cream and decorate with caramelized popcorn.

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Beneath the

Cork

Wine is one of the most civilized things in the world and one of the most natural things of the world that has been brought to the greatest perfection, and it offers a greater range for enjoyment and appreciation than, possibly, any other purely sensory thing. Ernest Hemingway

was recently invited to taste a local wine which struck me both by the name and taste. Indeed the wine gives justice to the name chosen by its owner namely, Divinus. I was intrigued by its pleasant character which encouraged me to know further its origins. To my surprise, this beauty was not produced by any of the leading local wine manufacturers but rather by a small enterprise run by Mark Borg. My request for an interview was quickly welcomed by Mark who invited me for a tasting session. His cellar is on the periphery of Rabat. Once up the Saqqajja Hill and heading to Dingli you are called to take the first turning on the left. After struggling a few minutes to find the place I was greeted by Mark with his signature cap and beard. The place is amazing. Notwithstanding the huge walls, it gives you a sense of warmth. The place is packed with distinct features which tell part of Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s viticulture history. Every corner is

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filled with wine stored in oak barrels, glass flagons and stainless steel tanks. At the centre of the room there was a selection of Markus Divinus wines ready to be tasted. Whilst he watches me gaze around, he notes to me that “this is a temporary place I am using. My plan is to build my very own boutique winery in Dingli. It will have a better sense of place since it will be closer to nature.”

Mark is an accomplished winemaker, crafting outstanding wines that speak of their place, firmly rooted in the lessons he learned travelling to various acclaimed wine regions and his deep research on local viticulture. Indeed, his work represents what Maltese vines can offer. Mark is not pigeonholed to a single grape, nor confined to a vineyard. His wine stretches through the fertile land of central Malta. While Mark pours a shot from the first bottle on the table, I ask him what lies behind the name “Markus Divinus” which he promptly replies, “Markus the divine, Markus of the wine”. Indeed Martin Luther once stated that “Beer is made by men, wine by God.”

I ask him about the nature of his wine which he proudly notes that, “we focus on creating wines that reflect the true characteristics of the grape varietal and the agricultural heritage of the Maltese Islands.” Markus Divinus wines are the expression of a winemaker with a passion for viniculture stresses on the importance of choosing the right location to source his grapes and who works closely with local farmers do produce amazing wines. Mark further notes that “small, low yield vineyards and handpicked, bring out the luscious and concentrated nectar of our ‘terroir’. The wines are crafted to express complexity, elegance and class.” Indeed, the use of indigenous grape varieties as well as international grapes planted in Malta offers Mark the opportunity to create unique blends. Mark is a rule-breaking winemaker who has pioneered a new style. A few years ago he started paving the way for a fresher and innovative style of wines which bring together various local grapes. Every bottle

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shows impeccable balance, incorporating structure, fruit character and texture in the right measure. His goal is not to produce volumes but rather work on small runs which give him the possibility to experiment with flavours and exalt the taste of different vines produced in different areas of Malta and in different types of land. Whilst taking me through his selection of wines, he shares with us the origin of his wine. “The majority of our grapes are sourced from Siææiewi yet also from Rabat, Dingli, Gœajn Rihana and Fiddien. We work closely with farmers and select specific vines from which we pick our grape. Their age varies. Indeed, we do have gellewza produced from seventy year old vines.” He stresses that it is a very challenging industry and he owes much of his determination and perseverance to the continuous support of his wife. He picks up a bottle of 2011 Divinus Syrah. His eyes are saddened by the story behind the wine. After a short silence, Mark tells me that the wine was the produce of an amazing vineyard. He adds that “the farmer, Ÿaren, seemed rough at first yet I later better understood his real character and love towards the land. His drive and passion were fundamental for the production of great wines. Ÿaren passed away a few years ago and together with him, his amazing vineyard. Our viticultural heritage has suffered such a huge loss.” On a positive note though, Mark moves towards one of his French oak barrels labelled “Syrah 2017” where he proudly tells me that nature always offers us pleasant surprises. Indeed he notes that last year’s Syrah was amazing. Its name will be Solum. He picks another wine with the name of Zareen which I ask him to tell me more about its story. “Zareen is “Glow of gold” in Persian which pretty much describes its distinct golden colour. It is a complex Mediterranean Chardonnay speckled with Maltese sunshine aged ‘sur lie’ in a new French oak barrique for 12 months, out of which 300 bottles were produced.”

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com.mt

We move to another wine, Adon which literally means “lord.” Mark explains to me that it is produced using indigenous Æellewza grapes and late harvested Syrah which together create a divine, Maltese style wine with a nice long length. Mark adds that “the Adon is truly worth

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BENEATH THE CORK

special wine which is still to be launched and which its name as it is fulfilling in the hands that produced it and rekindles childhood memories. Grezz 2016 is dedicated to those whose lips caress it.” He warns me that the table to his grandmother. It reflects her courage, strength, is now presenting us with more complex wines and quickly earthiness and the incredible passion of toiling in the introduces me to Divinus 2015 Sryah. Merlot, Cabernet fields. In 2005 Mark planted his precious vines in her Franc, Viognier. It is made from 20 year old vines Syrah, field and realized his own love for the land. This is indeed Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Viognier cultivated in Siææiewi. Mark’s benchmark for a Bordeaux style of wine. The The Syrah grapes are fermented with the skins of the textures and feelings in your mouth range from opulence Viognier to give it a clean, smooth and elegant slightly to decadence. Grezz is a complex young wine that layered feel on the palate. The wine is aged 8 will benefit aging and will reward those who months in a new, highly toasted, American are patient. oak barrique. Mark adds that, “the nose is very elegant and complex with notes of We move to the last bottle which spice, blueberries, bacon and a touch I note has a very particular name, We focus on creating wines of red currants and tobacco. It is smoky L-Imÿabbab. With a smile, Mark that reflect the true characteristics and long length, recalling a modern quickly clarifies to me the origin of the of the grape varietal and the Rhone blend but with the elegance and name. “Imÿabbab is another word for agricultural heritage of the fruit of the New World. It is really an imqadded and is derived from the word Maltese Islands intriguing wine!” ÿbiba. The wine is produced from a dry Merlot grape.” The taste is simply divine and He asks me whether I am still sober and ready spells out a pleasant sweet taste which is balanced for more. The atmosphere induced me to keep going and and not too overwhelming. It is indeed a sheer pity that was promptly invited to taste another particular wine, a only fifty bottles were produced. Merlot - Cabernet Franc - Sangiovese 2015. The wine Time flies and unfortunately I have to cut short our is made from ripe Merlot using 20 year old vines from conversation to head back home. Whilst walking out of Siææiewi, Cabernet Franc and Sangiovese from Gœajn this amazing place, I compliment Mark for his work and Rihana. The wine is aged for 16 months in new French promise to pay a further visit in the very near future. It is oak and a further 6 months in stainless steel. The taste is impressive what gems lay hidden deep in our villages. indeed particular as it is earthy, spicy and full bodied. It is also impressive how every bottle stored in that I note we are heading to the end of this lengthy place bring together the singularity and beauty of local selection of wines. Mark fondly invites me to taste a very viticulture.

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TIME

OR RENEWAL

Interview with

Hany Harb Chef Patron of Ali Baba

pring is a time when nature takes the stage with its bright and radiant colours. It is a time when the land regenerates itself offering an abundance of tastes and flavours which offer that unique twist to every dish presented. Spring is also the time when Hany will launch his new menu which ensures a healthy balance between local produce and Lebanese recipes. The menu though also brings to the table a French element which will take Hany’s new dishes to a different level.

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Why did you feel it was time for Ali Baba to renew its selection of dishes? Renewal is a healthy and necessary process. We do often change a few items on our menu to keep it fresh and in line with the seasonal products available. Each new dish introduced to our menu strikes a balance between local produce and our Lebanese identity which is ingrained in our roots. The new menu we shall soon launch keeps loyal to local produce and Lebanese identity yet gives each plate a modern touch. What will your new menu look like? The core dishes will be kept yet we will introduce some exotic novelties. How did you develop your new menu and what was your inspiration? The seasons are my source of inspiration and research. Nevertheless, I do believe that no menu can be based on one’s sole judgement. The creation and development of a menu is a collective effort and thus I always involve my entire team member in such decision making process. I noted that there is a little bit of French cuisine in your new selection of dishes. How will such new elements coexist with your traditional Lebanese cuisine? Lebanon’s French colonial experience has inevitable influenced our cuisine. We felt that our new dishes should

exalt this French element yet we will keep loyal to our Lebanese food identity. The menu includes novelties such as frog legs. How will such new dishes be received by your clients? We used to serve frog legs in the past and must say were well received by our clients. For some time though, we focused on other products. We will include frog legs in our new menu yet with a new method of cooking. We will also seek to create better awareness on such delicacy so as to attract more clients to try them out. Which new dish are you most excited about? This is quite a tough question! I would say all of them! Notwithstanding your menu has a clear Franco Lebanese imprint, there is a strong local element which is present in the ingredients used. Can you tell us more about your loyalty towards Maltese produce? Malta offers a unique selection of products which have a unique way how they exalt every dish they are included in. I was always impressed by the indigenous grape varieties of Ă&#x2020;ellewza and Ghirghentina, which are producing some excellent wines of distinct body and flavour as well as other produce such as local potato, citrus, carob, figs, strawberries, tomatoes, honey, pomegranate, and olives as well as the small Malta June pear. Their taste is amazing and exalts my work in a way no other imported products do. I source my ingredients from a very small circle of suppliers which might not be large distributors yet offer a genuine product and above all do not treat me like a number. There is also a strong element of seasonality. In what way do seasonal ingredients help dishes stand out? In season, ingredients tend to be fresher and taste better. Your menu also includes a stronger selection of Lebanese wines. What makes Lebanese wines so sought after? We came up with the idea of promoting local viticulture. By local we mean both Lebanese and Maltese wines. We changed our wine list which now only offers a selection of the best Maltese and Lebanese wines. Although local wines are very much sought after by our clients, many do try Lebanese wines. So when will such novelties be launched? Soon, very soon.

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The Peasant Salad T

he Lebanese kitchen carries many crowns, and Fattoush salad is one of them. Fattoush is a Levantine bread salad made from toasted or fried pieces of Arabic flat bread combined with mixed greens and other vegetables, such as radishes and tomatoes. Fattush belongs to the family of dishes known as fattat (plural of fatteh), which use stale flatbread as a base. Fattoush distinguishes itself by two main aspects namely: the number of greens and vegetables it carries, and the complex rich flavour that the pomegranate molasses and sumac spice engulf it with. Fattoush is the official Lebanese peasant salad, and farmers just throw in whatever spring harvest they have into the bowl to build up this beauty.

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HANY HARB

INGREDIENTS

SERVES

Dressing 4 teaspoons ground sumac, soaked in 4 teaspoons warm water for 15 minutes 3 tablespoons (or more) fresh lemon juice 2 tablespoons (or more) pomegranate molasses 2 small garlic cloves, minced 2 teaspoons (or more) white wine vinegar 1/2 teaspoon dried mint 3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt Salad 2 8-inch-diameter pita breads, halved, toasted until golden brown, broken into bite-size pieces 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt 3 medium ripe tomatoes, chopped, or 4 cups cherry tomatoes, halved 1 pound Persian cucumbers, or 1 pound English hothouse cucumber, quartered lengthwise, thinly sliced crosswise 6 scallions, thinly sliced 2 Little Gem or baby Romaine lettuces, or 1 small head Romaine lettuce, trimmed, cut crosswise into 3/4-inch strips 2 cups (loosely packed) flat-leaf parsley leaves 2 cups purslane leaves or additional 3/4-inch-strips Romaine lettuce 1 cup fresh mint leaves Ground sumac (optional)

METHOD Dressing Combine sumac with soaking liquid, 3 tablespoons lemon juice, 2 tablespoons pomegranate molasses, garlic, 2 tablespoons vinegar, and dried mint in a small bowl. Gradually add oil, whisking constantly, until well blended. Season with salt; add more lemon juice, pomegranate molasses, and vinegar to taste, if desired. Salad Place pita pieces in a medium bowl; pour oil over and toss to coat. Season pita to taste with salt. Mix tomatoes and next 6 ingredients in a large bowl. Add 3/4 of dressing; toss to coat, adding more dressing by tablespoonfuls as needed. Season with salt. Add pita; toss once. Sprinkle sumac over, if desired.

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MaghmourBetingan Preparation 45 minutes Soaking 1 night

SERVES

METHOD

 Peel and deseed the tomato, cut into 8 pieces.

The day before

 Peel the carrots and cut in to juliennes (thin strips).

 Peel the aubergines and cut in four width wise, then sprinkle with salt and leave to drain in a colander overnight in the refrigerator.

INGREDIENTS 3 aubergines 2 carrots 1 large ripe tomato 1 onion I head of garlic 1 handfull of dried chickpeas 1 ltr frying oil 100 ml olive oil Salt and pepper to taste 84

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 Soak the chickpeas in cold water overnight. On the day  Deep fry the aubergines for five minutes.  Lay them on kitchen paper to reduce some of the oil.  Cook the chickpeas from cold water for 45 minutes, when ready strain and run under cold water, press with your hands to take off the skin.  Peel the onions and slice into strips.

 Peel the garlic cloves.  In a sauce pan sauté the onions, in two tablespoons of the olive oil, add the carrots and garlic, tomato and chickpeas.  Place the chunks of aubergines on top of the mixture. Place weight such as overturned plate on top to hold all the ingredients tight and in place, add enough water to cover the aubergines and simmer for 15 to 20 minutes covered.  Turn on a plate and sprinkle with some chopped parsley optional if you like and serve with some warm pita or bread of your liking.

HANY HARB

Loubieh Biz-zyeta (Green Beans cooked in olive oil) Prepartion 50 minutes

SERVES

INGREDIENTS 1 kg green beans (runner beans) 3 very ripe tomatoes 2 onions 1 whole garlic bulb 5 Tablespoons olive oil Salt and pepper to taste

METHOD  Top and tail the beans and cut in three or four diagonally.  Peel and thinly slice the onion.  Peel the garlic.  Peel the tomatoes and cut in chunky pieces.  In a sauté pan cook the onions till translucent in olive oil, add the beans and continue cooking till colour of beans deepens, add the garlic and tomato and season with salt and pepper, simmer for 25 minutes covered.  Serve warm or cold with bread.

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Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com

A N U

NCONVENTIONAL

ROUTE

Interview with

Damien Wager Owner of Edible Art Patissêrie

astry was not his childhood ambition. It was only whilst spending his teenage years studying to be a PE teacher, that he discovered his love for pastry. Rather than follow the conventional route into the industry Damien taught himself the art of pastry-making by watching YouTube videos. After mastering the skills to create stunning desserts, Damien worked his way up the ranks in the kitchen until he felt comfortable enough to move into the pastry section and hasn’t looked back. Damien took some time off his busy agenda to share with us what attracted him to the world of pastry, his plans for his new patissêrie venture, Edible Art and why his best ideas come to him whilst he’s driving.

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You haven’t been to culinary school, but worked your way up, how do you think this has helped you throughout your career? I think by ‘cutting your teeth’ in the kitchen environment you tend to keep up with ‘trends’ and the modern side of the industry instead of the classic style which is taught from the ground up within culinary academies and schools. I am also biased to the type of chef that has grafted from the bottom up. They tend to have more respect for everyone within the brigade as they have experienced it all and earned the respect along the way without the thought of ‘self-entitlement’ from receiving a piece of paper from a college. However I appreciate what the colleges do in terms of producing numbers to filter through the various outlets and sides of the catering industry. The cream always reaches the surface as they say, so where they come from or from which lane, makes no difference.

Looking back, do you think you would go to culinary school knowing what you know today? No. I don’t feel that knowing what I know now, I would accelerate in my career by attending either a full time or ‘day release’ course. I am primarily self-taught in pastry, and I 100% believe that is the best way. Most recipes in patissêrie only tell half the story, it’s all about the touch, feel, temperature etc, and that, like finesse, can’t be taught, it has to be experienced hands on in person. I taught myself how to temper chocolate by watching videos online, same with macarons. Along the way, I must have wasted around £150 worth of produce trying to master macarons, and I apologise to the Chef whose GP would have taken a beating, but in order to succeed you need to fail, right? A lot of Chefs wouldn’t give me the time of day, and for that I am grateful as it makes me want to succeed more. I thrive on the criticism and negative comments made. You have to have a thick skin in this industry. Did you encounter challenges because of your different path? I don’t think so no. I suppose it’s a little like driving, you can pick up bad habits so to speak. Training solely within the kitchen to tend to have one or two mentors’ when you start out, you absorb everything like a sponge and I guess some things you absorb and take on board may not be the right way when you move on to another kitchen, and I guess these wouldn’t have been picked up if you learnt within an academy or college. Your Instagram bio says you are the Edible Art founder, could you tell me a bit more about that? Edible Art is my future. I incorporated my company, Edible Art Patissêrie Limited, late in 2017 and I work as a consultancy chef, as well as host numerous masterclasses at culinary academies and colleges all over the United Kingdom. I have amazing supporters and sponsors in the shape of Forest Produce, who are a specialist ingredient supplier who provide me with the best ingredients to ensure my classes run as smooth as possible and the ‘learners’ have access to only the best ingredients throughout their course. I couldn’t wish for a better job, being able to create all my creations

credits to FayDit Photography

from my mind, on a day to day basis whilst inspiring the next generation of pastry chefs. How would you describe your cooking style? Flamboyant. I like everything lineal, but that’s just my OCD. If it’s not perfect in my eyes then I can, and in the past, have shed a tear. I will beat myself up mentally if something doesn’t work in theory like it does in my head or how I scribbled it down in one of my note books. I judge myself not against my peers working in similar establishments, but against the likes of Antonio Bachour and Cedric Grolet. If they can achieve what they can, then without diminishing

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his is a dish that has always been an idea that I never got around to putting on the plate. It wasn’t until 2017 when Pavoni Italia released their ‘tutti-frutti’ range where I saw the ‘Cherry’ silicone mould when I thought now is the time to create this dish! It’s a twist on a classic gâteau, but in a way that the guest ordering it, wouldn’t imagine it coming to them.

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DAMIEN WAGER what they have done, why can’t I achieve it? My answer always returns to the same conclusion, that I am not working hard enough. In what ways do the likes of Antonio Bachour and Cedric Grolet influence your approach? They are both among, if not the best pastry chefs working at this present time. It’s not just their style, or creative process, it’s their desire to build a brand that is instantaneously recognisable. I have always had the desire to not just be the Chef with his name above the door, but I want to own that door! If you invest in bricks and mortar, then the rest will flow easily. I want to be my own boss and build my own legacy, whilst leaving my own lasting stamp, like Bachour and Grolet have, on the scene for years to come and for many years after I’m long gone. When in your career did you decide to focus on pastry and why? Around two years ago. I have always been interested in pastry, but never had anyone to show me the ropes so to speak. I had/have always worked with Head Chefs who fit the stereotype that they can ‘get by’ when writing their dessert menus, but they’re not trying to get noticed for them, more the fact the starters and mains were stunning, so hopefully the customer won’t mind a generic dessert. I have always had a sweet tooth, so I would always be the chef who volunteered or wanted to run the pastry section in places where there wasn’t a full-time pastry chef. My good friend, Simon George who is head chef at the Alverton Hotel, Truro, gave me my first Head Pastry Chef position when he was head chef at another hotel and it was then that I knew I would become a pastry chef full time, I just needed to learn a bit more, and being self-taught, I needed to work my way up the ranks within the hot side of the kitchen in order to gain the opportunity and chance to experiment with pâtisserie. How does spring influence your mood and work in the kitchen? Spring to me is the start of the year, days get longer and it starts to warm up thank God! Rhubarb is rife in the U.K. this time of year, and if you’re not using it, you are missing out on one of the easiest ingredients to access this time of

year. With Easter fast approaching, it’s also the time of year where the experimentation with chocolate kicks into overdrive! I like to experiment with various blends of chocolate from Valrhona and mix them to create unique blends to myself. This year I plan to cast and flavour my Easter Eggs with a blend of Valrhona Dulcey 32% and Caramelia 36% that I have been tinkering with. It has a caramelised flavour initially, but then the smoothness of the milk chocolate from the Caramelia kicks in and completely harmonises the palette! Have you also covered other areas of the kitchen? Yes. I worked my way up from pot wash right through the ranks. I held a sous position in a 2-rosette restaurant at the age of 22, and was head chef of a 4 star 1 rosette hotel, famous for its wedding venue, when I was 24. It was here that I got the chance to experiment a bit more with pâtisserie before taking the lunge into full time pâtisserie. At such a relatively young age, you have achieved a lot. What is next for your career? Keep pushing my company as far as it will go. I am fully focused on my brand and getting my work and ideas out there to anyone who will listen or show interest. I won’t stop until I am at the stage where my idols begin to become my rivals, despite the immense respect and admiration I have for them. What’s the point in doing something if you’re not going to aim or the top? I just want to keep doing me, and see where that may take me, I am always open to new adventures!

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April 2018

T HE ROOT

Interview with

Robert Cassar Chef Patron at Root 81

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he Saqqaja steps are turning into a very busy eatery location. The place offers a selection of culinary boutiques each with its own distinct character and flair.

Whilst getting your breath back after walking up the busy steps, you come across a place with a curious name, Root 81. The place offers a sweet homely taste which is complemented by a radiant golden colour which emanates from the old limestone walls and a colourful modern touch offered by the choice of lighting and other decor present in every corner of the outlet. Colour is also the theme of every plate prepared at Root 81. Indeed, every dish is a game of tastes, colours and shapes. Whether it is a starter, a main course or a dessert, every dish highlights the passion, determination and culinary flair of a chef, which I quickly get to know, is Robert Cassar. Credits Alan Saliba

His sharp blue eyes and contagious smile welcome me to the outlet where I am invited to sit on the table close to the main door which enjoys such breath-taking views. Robert is young, dynamic and keen to share his story with me. I quickly set the tone of our conversation by asking him about the choice of name which he notes that “the word root reaffirms the principle that good food start from its origins. On the other hand number 81 connects me to my childhood. It reminds me of the bus that used to take me and my mum up to the playground in Rabat.” I move on to ask him what food means to him. He notes that “food is my muse, my career and above all, my life”. He also adds that food is that process in his life which saw him shift from preparing rolls and cooking pastizzi to developing high level dishes based on seasonal local produce. “I initially did not have any culinary aspirations yet at the age of twenty, I felt it was time for me to find my true career path. I followed a course at the Institute of Tourism Studies following which

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ROBERT CASSAR

I recollect a recent comment by Wolfgang Puck who recently noted that “A chef is a mixture maybe of artistry and craft. You have to learn the craft really to get there”. I ask Robert what are his views on such statement to which he concurs. “Both elements are fundamental and make the difference between a great chef and a normal cook.” After many years working in several leading kitchens, Robert took the plunge into entrepreneurship. I ask him what encouraged him to take such a bold decision. He firmly points out that “I felt it was the right time for me to develop my own project. It was time for me to carve my niche and showcase my work in the industry.” He adds that “Entrepreneurship is very rewarding yet does also offer various challenges. It forces you to move out of your comfort zone and juggle the kitchen together with other elements including people and money.” I had the opportunity to work abroad at the Vineyard Hotel near Newbury, Berkshire, United Kingdom. I also successfully competed in several competitions including gold in the Malta Kulinarja vegetarian mystery box, silver, Best in Class in the preparation of Local Pork Dish and silver in the preparation of under-utilised fish dish at the Vivanda Malta Kulinarja Awards 2018.“ I find it natural to ask Robert whether he has any point of reference which he admits to be his endless library of recipe books. “Over the years, my collection has accumulated and I can’t fit many more on the shelf. I read attentively through every recipe and seek to give it my very own imprint.” Whilst taking a few sips of sparkling water, I ask Robert about his style which he promptly defines as casual with a touch of haute cuisine. He notes that every plate seeks to exalt the beauty of fresh local produce. “The complexity of my dishes lies in the natural taste, texture and flavour of local primary ingredients which can vary from a pea to a fine cut of prime beef.”

Our discussion on entrepreneurship takes us to the spring season which he admits to be the best time of the year in view of the colours and flavours it offers. “From the markets and out of the gardens come the first sweet offerings of the season. We are blessed with the opportunity to enjoy the fresh flavours of the season with dishes that incorporate the jewels of spring. Baby beets, asparagus, artichokes, and morels, reminds us that spring has sprung.” It is time for me to conclude my interview yet before calling it a day; I felt the need to ask him a final question regarding his future plans. “I want to succeed in my entrepreneurial project yet at the same time I want to make sure I remain loyal to my style of cooking. Growth should never be achieved to detriment of one’s style. Our identity is ultimately what makes us different from others.” I continue to remain positively impressed with the talent such a small island offers. His work and drive to succeed are of inspiration to other prospective local chefs. Indeed the Maltese culinary industry has a promising future!

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April 2018

CITRUS BAKED

SALMON INGREDIENTS

4 salmon fillets 1 /4 cup lemon juice 1 /4 cup orange juice 1 /4 cup lime juice 2 teaspoons melted butter 1 teaspoon dried parsley 1 /2 teaspoon ground paprika 1 /4 teaspoon salt 1 /4 teaspoon ground black pepper

METHOD  Pre-heat the oven at 350 degrees.  Grease a baking dish lightly with cooking spray.  Place salmon fillets in a baking dish.  In a small bowl combine the lemon, lime and orange juice, butter, paprika, dried parsley, salt and pepper and drizzle over the salmon fillets in the baking dish.  Bake for about 15 minutes until easily flaked with a fork.

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ROBERT CASSAR

INGREDIENTS 200g acquarello risotto 500g local king prawns (4 for garnish) 3 onion shallots 1 whole orange (with skin) 2 garlic cloves 500ml water 200ml fish stock Sunflower oil

METHOD  In a pan, heat the sunflower oil over moderate heat and add 2 onion shallots. Cook, stirring frequently, until the shallots are golden. Add the local prawns, add 500ml of water and 200ml of fish stock. Cut the fresh orange in quarters, add to the mixture and cook for 30 minutes, stirring frequently. Blend everything with a hand blender and pass the mixture through a fine sieve to get a smooth textured bisque.  In a separate large pan, cook the risotto together with 1 chopped onion shallot and 2 garlic cloves. Add the bisque to the risotto, simmer on low heat for 20 minutes, stirring frequently, until some of the bisque is absorbed by the risotto. The remaining bisque that has not been absorbed should be thickened by the starch of the rice.

Acquarello Risotto with Local Prawns

 Garnish the risotto with 3 whole local prawns.

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April 2018

Understanding Wine Certification The meaning behind DOK and IÆT banderoles

enominations of origin and Geographical Indications – or GI as the EU refers to them collectively – are a very strong and distinctive way in which consumers are protected with regards to particular products including wines. However, with scarce information reaching the consumers, these denominations might have little or no significance at all.

always clear in other parts of the world. Similarly, the use of added sugar is strictly prohibited and this so as to ensure the authenticity of the product i.e. wine. All this permits the EU Member States to ensure quality through GI Wines with a number of specific names like DOK Malta, DOK Gozo and IÆT Maltese Islands.

National Vineyard Register

GI Wines Here we’re identifying the steps which DOK and IÆT wines have to undergo so that the authenticity of the product may be guaranteed. The EU has always been a promoter with regards to the protection afforded to wines and other foodstuffs. A quick look at the label of geographical indication will help us, consumers, to understand better the products that are bought. The European Union, has always aimed at helping consumers identify authentic and genuine products. A strict set of rules for winemaking practices has been established with the main aim that all wine lovers may enjoy wine originating from the EU while being ensured that certain basic characteristics are observed. Suffice to say that within all the EU the word wine is reserved specifically for those wines originating from grapes – a distinction which is not

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The first important step is the establishment of the National Vineyard Register wherein every Member State is bound to register the total superficial area under vines, the varieties being cultivated and the producer. This exercise is a massive one considering that in 2015, more than 3.2 million hectares were under vines within the EU territory. However, this mammoth task is the basis for consumer protection. The National Vineyard Register provides an essential instrument to guarantee consumers that the wines being offered actually do originate from a particular region. Every National Vineyard Register has some essential components including the area under vines, the number of growers, the size of the holdings, the main vine varieties and the age of vines. This data is not an irrelevant exercise of paperwork but offers the possibility of cross-checking all throughout the particular regions so as to certify those wines which really merit certification.

In order to ensure that a producer or a winery may have his grapes or wine registered as GI wines, there is the compulsory registration in the Malta Vineyard Register. This is the beginning of the certification that arrives to us consumers as a Denominazzjoni ta’ Oriæini Kontrollata (D.O.K.) or Indikazzjoni Æeografika Tipika (I.Æ.T.) classification as the case may be.

Protocol Requirements (viticulture aspects) The vineyard register is the point of departure. However, consumers are further protected through the Production Protocols. These documents - which are normally defined by the local producers or vintners themselves – are essential to provide a uniform product for GI recognition, both locally and at EU level. This Code of Practice is essential for geographical indication (GI) schemes since it establishes the essential elements for recognition and assurance that the wine itself respects certain specific characteristics. In order to ensure full protection and authenticity of the GI Wine, the production protocol establishes various essential elements including: •

delimitation of the area of production

•

specific grape variety

•

vine growing methods including production per vine, planting methods and pruning methods

•

methodology to be adopted in the vinification process including the area where the vinification is to take place and ageing

•

oenological practices and processes

•

specific wine type including colour and type of wine including sensorial characteristics and composition of wines

•

special mentions such as Riÿerva and Superior

•

the control system to ensure quality and the avoidance of abuse.

The EU has always been a promoter of a green economy and the preservation of the natural environment. The farmer is nowadays seen as a constitutive element for environmental protection.

The Production Protocol establishes a specific quality which is to be attained by all the vintners who wish to make use of a specific GI within a specific territory. Having said this, it is understandable that a GI wine must necessarily manifest qualities which are intrinsically linked to a region or territory in a manner that a clear unique link is established in between the GI wine and the region from which it originates. Emphasis is always made on quality and the Production Protocol also highlights those specific and unique attributes of a GI wine.

History, often representing the love of a region to a particular wine, plays an important part within the Production Protocol since a GI wine’s reputation establishes also the connection between the same wine and its territory. In addition, the name for the GI wine – often the result of a long tradition – is clearly established within the same Production Protocol.

Harvest Inspections All the above is mostly related to paperwork. But how does it affect – in real life, us the consumers? Certification is not the result of a tedious paperwork exercise but includes as an essential element on-site inspections which guarantee that no foul play takes place. Proper certification for a GI wine on a yearly basis starts with the harvest inspections. This takes place so as to ensure both the quantities to be harvested as well as the quality of the grapes on the vine. Inspections at this stage provide the guarantee that the quantities of wine which are put on the market tally with the amount of grapes harvested every year. Departmental checks are carried out to guarantee that the farmers’ declarations are cross-checked with what is actually found on the vineyard itself. This provides essential data for production and harvest declarations which mark the basis for annual GI wines production. This first look at the lengthy certification process helps us consumers understand the toil, love and passion contained in every DOK or IÆT wine bottle that is purchased. It depicts the effort and dedication which people all through the food chain – from the farmer to the oenologists to the wineries to the certification bodies – give so as to provide to us the best possible wines that their region can produce.

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AARON DEGABRIELE

Rabbit patties in Hopleaf

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

500 g rabbit mince

 Place the rabbit mince into a mixing bowl and season with salt and pepper.

2 garlic cloves, peeled & chopped zest of 1/2 a lemon 1 teaspoon mixed spice Chopped parsley & thyme 4 spoons grated Parmesan cheese 2 egg yolks 2 spoons pine nuts 2 spoons olive oil 1 large onion 200 ml Hopleaf 100 ml chicken stock 2 spoons tomato sauce Hand full of marrow fat peas Salt and pepper

 Mix in the chopped garlic, lemon zest, mixed spice, herbs, yolks, pine nuts and Parmesan.  Knead the combined.

mixture

well

until

 Divide into balls and flatten slightly to form the patties.  Shallow fry on both sides until browned on both sides. Stir in the sliced onions.  Reduce the heat allowing the onion to wilt. Pour in the beer and simmer until reduced. Stir in the stock and arrange consistency with the tomato sauce.  Finish off with the marrow fat peas and serve sprinkled with chopped herbs.

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Credit Alan Saliba

Interview with

Janine Camilleri

Chef Patron at L'Artiglio Ristorante

COFHANGE HEART

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t is my habit to regularly browse through local and foreign food blogs to keep abreast with recent developments in the industry. A recent review on a local restaurant which was defined by a client as “a place you want to keep secret” piqued my curiosity to pay a visit. I quickly browsed through the website of L’Artiglio Ristorante to find out more about this outlet. The images are amazing and spell out the passion and creativity of a young chef who I quickly learnt to be Janine Camilleri. I set a meeting with her to learn more about her and the outlet. I learn that Janine is not new to the food industry. Indeed, she has worked along the pots and pans of leading restaurants including Guiseppi’s, The Galley and The Villa. This time though, she’s in charge of her very own kitchen where she can prepare amazing dishes. After walking a few meters through the busy and chilly Republic Street, I take a quick turn to my left down Melita Street where I reach my destination. The restaurant is built within a newly opened hotel called La Falconeria. The place is amazing and conveys a local homely environment. The designed tiles and warm coloured walls give you a sense of coziness and relaxed feeling. The place also includes an open kitchen where diners can enjoy the view of the chefs busy preparing meals. I am greeted by Janine with her signature warm smile and bubbly character set the tone of our conversation where she quickly takes me through her time in the food industry. She is surprised to hear I know about her accountancy background and is keen to tell me more about her shift from numbers to knives. Janine tells me that, “My first temptation to shift towards the food industry came when I was in my third year accounts yet was still very skeptic to make the move as I was still concerned about the industry’s stability” however, she adds that “the more months went by, the more I felt my heart was not in accounts. I am a bit of an adrenaline junky which can never fit in the world of

numbers. I felt food was my life and made a promise to myself to finish my degree and take the plunge into the culinary world.” Notwithstanding the fact that she does not work in accounts she eagerly stresses to me that she still finds her degree very useful especially today when she runs the show of the entire premises. Our conversation shifts on role models which she admits not to have any. “I never followed food idols. My focus was always more on the food itself and the various characters an ingredient can have in the various plates presented.” She however points out that she does look up to her parents who are such an inspiration to her. “I look up to my mum who has taught me the importance of being perseverant. I also inherited her passion towards food. On the other hand dad, taught me the tricks of the trade and the importance of numbers.” The conversation inevitably shifts towards her philosophy and style. Janine’s approach has often been described by food critics as light, fresh and imaginative. With a nod and her distinct smile she agrees with such statement and notes that the outlet’s

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eclectic menu gives priority to local fresh seasonal ingredients. She also points out that “I am defined as a rebel in cooking. Œafna taœwid! All dishes have the same characteristics and textures yet they all differ as I do not follow any specific rules in the kitchen. All that really matters is the love you put in the food you make and that every plate is of a specific standard.” Janine does not work alone. Her team consists predominantly of female chefs and a couple of presumably patient men. All young, talented and enthusiastic. She tends to include a lot her team in the decision making process. Janine notes that “the more opinions you have, the more you will get the final product better. We experiment and see if it works. Even the porter tastes our new dishes.” Pooling of ideas in Janine’s kitchen is a way to ensure growth. Moreover as she proudly notes “It keeps it fun and it keeps the team on its toes.”

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JANINE CAMILLERI March celebrates the much awaited spring and thus our discussion touches on how spring fits into her kitchen. “Spring dishes are lighter with a stronger presence of fish, fruit and green products. I use fruit a lot to bring out the sweet note in every dish prepared. It is also a time when we are spoilt for choice with a vast selection of lettuce, rocket leaves, green beans and artichokes.” We also talk about Easter which she associates with il-œaruf ta’ Malta. “I purchase my lamb from a local reliable supplier. The taste is simply amazing! I only get it in Easter time as our signature dish, along side dishes prepared with broad beans and artichokes.” Time flies and I note from the clock just opposite me that it is time for me to wrap up our interview. I dedicate my last question to what are her plans for the future. “A lot is happening. We are still coming to terms with the successful year. We are also working on another project, Patakka which will open soon. The best is yet to come!” It was indeed a pleasure to come across such talent in the local food industry. Their work and entrepreneurial drive is what helps our country stand out of the crowd in the global food industry. The communication channel is also extended to clients who are grilled for frank and honest feedback. She points out that “a small note helps us grow. Our menu changes frequently thus have dishes which constantly evolve. Maltese foodies are my market.” I touch on a sensitive issue with Janine by asking her views on the traditional perception that the food industry is male dominated. She points out that like any industry; women have a harder time to succeed. “I can only speak for what I did, which was work very, very hard and be clear about my goals.” She also notes that “its not really about who is the most physically capable of handling the kitchen, a woman finds it hard to succeed in the kitchen, because she needs to earn the respect of the men, and the quickest and best way to do that is to, be one of them, only then can they can see you as a women with the respect you deserve.” She stresses that this is not correct yet this is still the way it is.

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Interview with

Brady Dalli Executive Sous Chef at the InterContinental Malta

he current local culinary scene boasts an impressive portfolio of young talent. One major exponent of this golden generation is Chef Brady Dalli. Notwithstanding a rather shy and introvert character, his creative flair and strong determination to succeed helped him achieve a lot within a very short span of time. His major strength lies in his eye for detail which ensures every ingredient is in its proper place. We met Brady at the Waterbiscuit to discuss with him his interpretation of food, his achievements and his projects for the future.

B EAUTY LIES IN THE DETAIL

Credits Alan Saliba

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What attracted you towards the culinary world? It all started with my father. Being a pastry chef, he inevitably had a strong influence on my career path. Watching him work at home; measuring, mixing, baking and decorating countless homemade sweets instilled in me the desire to learn the trade. At school I leaned more towards culinary subjects, being intrigued by the various cooking methods and ingredients utilized. Needless to say, at the age of 16, I embarked on this journey and have never looked back since.

How have your dishes evolved over the years, and which chefs have influenced you? My dishes have definitely become more intricate, as in; innovative flavour pairings, modern plating style and varying textures are all molded together seamlessly to create my interpretation of contemporary cuisine. The influences are various, international and local, idols and colleagues, namely Thomas Keller, Daniel Humm and Grant Achatz. Local Chefs have also helped me a lot to achieve the results I have been striving for throughout the years.

Describe your style in three words? Consistent, contemporary, inquisitive.

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In a recent interview, chef Michael Pollen noted that â&#x20AC;&#x153;Time is the missing ingredient in our recipes â&#x20AC;&#x201C; and in our livesâ&#x20AC;? to what extent do you agree? I 100% agree. Lengthy cooking procedures and countless hours at work are not seen by the guest when the plate is placed in front of the irrespective guest. Time is the be all and end all of our job, everything has to be served in time, every time! Where does your inspiration come from? Inspiration comes from many things; animate and inanimate; natural and manmade; monochromatic and polychromatic. This leads me down a path of endless ideas and countless permutations of combinations possible.

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BRADY DALLI

What would you define as your essential ingredients? Olive oil for the shine, butter for the flavour, seasoning to round up the tastes and herbs as aromatics. Can you tell us more about your recent experience at the Michelin star festival held at the Hotel Intercontinental in Tel Aviv? It was definitely an insight into the Middle Eastern cuisine world, a veritable mix of vegetables, spices, herbs and cooking techniques, married together to produce truly wonderful food. An experience for the senses and an eye opener into the Michelin star realm. What dish would you prepare for an Easter Sunday lunch? It would definitely be a lamb leg stuffed with feta cheese and pistachios, rubbed with spring herbs, accompanied with Boulanger potatoes and sticky onion and cheddar quiche. In what way does spring fit into your kitchen? Spring, to me, is one of the loveliest seasons. It encapsulates the rebirth of nature following winter, and I try to emulate the effect by utilizing vibrant colours and fresh flavours in my dishes. Any projects in the pipeline? With the great achievement of being announced the national chef of the year automatically I will be representing Malta as one of the candidates competing in the semi finals of the global chef challenge. I will also be revamping the sky beach menu and making a seasonal menu for Waterbiscuit. This year will be very important as I will get married in December

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he 2018

WRMC Restaurants Quality Recognition Awards

Reno Spiteri, WRMC Executive Director

roudly hosted by the five-star Hilton Malta Hotel for the last six years in a row, the WRMC Restaurants Quality Recognition Awards directors, Mr. Reno Spiteri, Mr. Christopher Spiteri and Ms. Mary Grace Borg, welcomed with a red carpet treatment over 265 guests from more than 55 of Malta’s top restaurants and hotels to a dazzling evening of luxury, glamour, and style – the annual WRMC Gala Dinner and Awards Ceremony which was held on Monday, the 15th of January, 2018. Setting the basis for hotels and restaurants service industries’ standards around the Maltese Islands, the WRMC Restaurant Awards directors, pride themselves on providing true recognition to the top restaurants in their relevant categories, during their year-long assessment phase. Over 120 restaurants are directly 108 April 2018

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visited and dined at by the WRMC assessment team and directors who also include three anonymous inspectors to verify or dispute all or any of the assessment teams’ initial reviews. The WRMC website www.winesandrestaurantsofmalta.com as well as the WRMC’s official social media group, Restaurants in Malta:The Good;The Bad; The Rip-Offs, in which there are 19,300 registered members are meticulously followed both locally as well as overseas. All members are invited and encouraged to send in their comments based on their own recent experience on any establishment that the WRMC assessment team, would have published reviews upon, in these two online media sources. This modus operandi has made the WRMC Awards the benchmark for restaurant quality recognition in the Maltese Islands. The WRMC does

not believe in voting from clients who can be abusively solicited, and to strengthen its credibility, the WRMC does not solicit or accept advertising from restaurants on either its website or social media sources. The aim is to showcase the true value of quality and service excellence, through direct inspections, assessment and adjudications, and all awards are conferred on merit through which a multitude of factors come in to play; brand, location, overall guest satisfaction from online reviews and surveys, services and facilities, design, and even menu and wine offerings, cuisine quality, preparations and presentations and overall value for money. This year, four restaurants have been elevated to the prestigious WRMC Silver Spoon category and these are: One80 Kitchen & Lounge, Mellieœa Tal-Familja Restaurant, Marsascala Buddhamann Restaurant, St. Julian’s San Andrea Restaurant, Rabat Malta Twelve other restaurants which had been conferred with the WRMC Silver Spoon Award and title in previous years have retained their award for 2018, and three restaurants have lost the Silver Spoon award and title, namely L’Ortolan of Gozo (due to lack of consistency in its category), The Villa Brasserie of St. Julian’s and The Arches of Mellieœa, (as a result of having closed down). It is to be stated that for awards to be conferred, invited restaurateurs must of necessity be present for the awards ceremony and gala dinner. Due to this, another three restaurants have not been listed in the 2018 Silver Spoon Award list. This category is very strict in its adoption criteria and professional discipline. Thirty fine dining, up-scale casual and ethnic restaurants, as well as the four top most Sunday buffet lunch venues in Malta, were conferred with the elite WRMC Blue Riband Award, for top quality cuisine, very good service and value in their respective categories and concepts. The WRMC Special Individual awards have this year been conferred as follows:

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WRMC 2018 Top Maltese Chef: Kerstin Manicolo of Surf N’ Turf Restaurant, Qawra. WRMC 2018 Top Front of House Restaurant Manager: Joshua Borg of Surf N’ Turf Restaurant of Qawra. WRMC 2018 Top Foreign Chef: Li Langchao of Nan Yuan Cantonese Restaurant of the Valletta Waterfront. WRMC 2018 Top Maltese Restauratuer: Marvin Gauci of Tarragon; Caviar & Bull; Buddhamann and Dinner in the Sky restaurants. Mr. Gauci has won this award for the second year running. The WRMC Hall of Fame Award – The Lifetime Achievement Award was this year conferred on: Mr. Charles Preca founder of the Tal-Familja Group of Restaurants, who have given top class service within the restaurant industry in Malta for the last thirty-five years. The evening was as glamorous as one would expect from the Hilton Malta Hotel; a delectable 6-course fine dining menu prepared by the Hilton’s kitchen brigade adorned each table throughout the night and was paired with fine wines from CVNE of Spain and Premium Cuvée Cava from Roger Goulart. Entertainment was provided by an excellent three

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piece band, all of which added to the evening’s flair and jovial atmosphere. The event’s compère was Ms. Antonella Vassallo. After all awards were received, restaurant representatives had an opportunity for exclusive photos on the podium and interviews at each table, as well as a full photo session of all guests was held during the welcome reception which was held at the Portomaso Suite Foyer prior to sitting for dinner inside the exclusive Portomaso Suite. The Directors of the WRMC, Mr. Reno Spiteri Exceutive Director, Mr. Chris Spiteri and Mary Grace Borg, would like to express their thanks to the events sponsors without whose co-operation such an event would not have been possible namely: P.J. Sutters (Marketing) Ltd and their supporting brands – Aviko; Maestrella; Zappala; Zini and Demetra. Crossbow Wine Concepts and their supporting brands CVNE, Imperial; Cune; and Contino wines of Spain; Valletta Cruise Port Plc; And Charles Grech Ltd and their supporting brands San Pellgrino and Acqua Panna mineral water.

RENO SPITERI

Summary of the 2018 WRMC Awarded and recognised restaurants in the different category ratings: 2018 WRMC Silver Spoon Restaurants: Culinary excellence and outstanding service: TemptAsian – The Palace Hotel Blue Elephant – Hilton Malta Patrick’s Steakhouse and Restaurant – Victoria, Gozo Tarragon Restaurant – St. Paul’s Bay Tmun Mæarr – Mæarr, Gozo

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Palazzo Preca Restaurant – Valletta Ristorante La Vela – Pieta Caviar & Bull Restaurant – St. Julian’s Pintonino Restaurant – Valletta Waterfront Porto Vecchio Restaurant – Mæarr, Gozo Nan Yuan Cantonese Restaurant – Valletta Waterfront. One80 Kitchen & Lounge – Mellieœa Tal-Familja Restaurant – Marsascala Buddhamann – St.Julian’s San Andrea Restaurant, Palazzo Castelletti – Rabat, Malta. L’Agape – Rabat, Malta

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2018 WRMC Top Thirty Blue Riband Restaurants: Category 1. Fine & Upscale Restaurants– Blue Riband: Zeri’s – Portomaso Beppe’s – Sannat, Gozo Bouquet Garni – Mellieœa Country Terrace – Gœajnsielem Gozo Miro – St.Julian’s Capo Crudo – Valletta Surf N’ Turf – Qawra, St. Paul’s Bay Venus Restaurant - Buæibba, St. Paul’s Bay Rebekah’s Restaurant – Mellieœa Portomaso Casino Restaurant – St. Julian’s

dining

Category 2: Maltese & Ethnic Cuisine Restaurants top five – Blue Riband. Nenu the Artisan Baker – Valletta Gate of India by Gosh – St. Paul’s Bay XIXI (Cantonese Restaurant) – Xgœara, Gozo New Madras (Indian Restaurant) – Buæibba Rasoi (Indian Restaurant) at Dean Hamlet Hotel St.Julian’s

Caregory 3: The Top Ten General Category Restaurants Blue Riband: Browns – Valletta Waterfront Pepe Nero @ Veccja – St. Paul’s Bay Pepe Nero – Valletta Waterfront Trattoria Cardini – Sliema Q Bar – Valletta Waterfront Trattoria Don Berto – Vittoriosa Waterfront Fratelli La Bufala – Tigne Point Cassarini Restaurant – Wied Iÿ-Ÿurrieq El Catalan – Xgœajra Trattoria Da Pippo – Valletta Category 4: 2018 Top Four highest Quality Sunday Buffet lunch venues – Blue Riband: Oceana Restaurant – Hilton Malta, St.Julian’s Tabloid – The Palace Hotel, Sliema

112 April 2018

Delicious

The Terrace Restaurant – Westin Dragonara Resort, St. Julians Fra Martino – Corinthia San George, St.Julian’s

2018 TOP Ten Special Concept Restaurants: Special category award: Hammett’s Gastro Bar – Sliema Bistro 516 – Valletta Waterfront Tex Mex – Sliema Munchies – Mellieœa King’s Own Band Club Restaurant – Valletta Taninu Bistro – Marsascala Sciantusi Italian Cuisine – Sliema Zeffies – Ÿabbar Tal-Kaptan – Valletta Waterfront Panorama Restaurant – Valletta