Delicious - Issue12 (Autumn Edition) by Union Print

d elicious A s u s t a i n a b l e t a s t e o f a u t u m n

September 2018

Food For

Thought

Printing & Publishing: Union Print Co. Ltd, A41, Marsa industrial Estate, Marsa, MRS 3000 +356 25900200 Editor: Omar Vella delicious@unionprint.com.mt Proof Reading: Ramona Marie Vella Cini Marthese Cauchi

There is no such thing as guilt-free eating. Dan Barber

Design: Ryan Bezzina design@unionprint.com.mt Front image: Courtesy of Central, Peru www.centralrestaurante.com.pe Photography by César del Río Index image: Courtesy of Bahia Restaurant www.bahia.com.mt Photography by Tonio Lombardi Photos: We thank all contributers for providing photos and images. Other photos taken by Alan Saliba. Recipes: We thank all contributers for the recipes provided Advertising: info@unionprint.com.mt +356 2590 0200

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utumn is at the doorstep eagerly waiting to take the scene with an abundance of produce the land and the sea offer during this time of the year. Indeed, the local kitchen exalts itself during this period by the availability of lampuki, quail, pumpkin, squash, and a vast range of meats. The land and the sea are so generous yet their recent over exploitation has rendered our resources more scarce and less accessible. To counter the current scarcity of resources, we have all been called to seek sustainable solutions. Farmers, producers, chefs and also the end consumers are constantly looking for alternative sustainable measures. Various leading exponents of the food industry have voiced their views on sustainability in the industry including; Dan Barber who relentlessly pursues the stories and reasons behind the foods we grow and eat, Alex Atala who constantly insists on the need to talk more about sustainability, social issues and even the science behind our food, and Massimo Bottura with the launch of an international movement that aims to offer high quality meals to the most unfortunate people whilst combating food waste by using unsold food going out of date in supermarkets. In the September Delicious edition, we look at the concept of sustainability from the eyes of various international gastronomic masters. We also look at sustainability from a local point of view through the lens of key entities and individuals operating in the food industry. I wish you all a pleasant read.

While we make every effort to make sure that the content of Delicious is correct, we cannot take any responsibility nor be held accountable for any factual errors printed.

September 2018

04 Dan Barber 10 Kurt Mifsud 16 Massimo Bottura 24 Andrew Borg 30 Alex Atala 36 Virgilio Martinez 42 Gaggan Anand 48 Abraham's 54 Enrico Crippa 62 Jonathan Brincat 66 Brady Dalli 68 Debbie Schembri A Chef on a Mission

Creating a Sustainable Kitchen

The Value of Simple Things

Creating Something Extraordinary

Connecting Nature and Culture

From the Andes to the Amazon

Pushing Boundaries

Worth One's Salt

The Story in a Plate

A Local Perspective

A Taste of Autumn

The Simple Act of Cooking Food

September 2018

74 Juan Mari Arzak 78 Stephen & James Schiavone 88 Roderick Vella 94 Rafel Sammut 102 Charles Preca 114 Matthew Schembri 118 Pawlu Borg Bonaci 124 Giada de Laurentiis 134 Fabien Etienne 138 Nicolas Lambert 146 Martin Chiffers 150 Colin Ciantar & Tyrone Mizzi The Basque Maestro

Two Brothers, One Journey The Craft of Smoking, Salting & Curing Pork Anatomy

The Life of a Hero

The Art of Inovation

A Sweet legacy

A Family's Food

Wine Uncorked

Pastry Perfection

One Sweet Bahia Orange

Index

September 2018

Chef on a

Mission

Interview with

Dan

Barber, Executive Chef and Co-Owner of

Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, and the author of The Third Plate (May 2014, The Penguin Press) 4

September 2018

Credit by Daniel Krieger

Credit by Ingrid Hofstra

an Barber’s contribution to the food industry goes beyond the boundaries of his kitchen. Over the past year he has relentlessly pursued the concept of sustainability in our farming and eating habits. He is also a strong advocate for buying local and cooking in season. Indeed, his New York restaurants, Blue Hill and Blue Hill at Stone Barns, serve food largely grown from the farms at Stone Barns and at Blue Hill in Great Barrington, Massachusetts. His contribution to the food industry has not gone unnoticed and was appointed by President Barack Obama to serve on the President’s Council on Physical Fitness, Sports and Nutrition. Dan continues the work that he began as a member of Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture’s board of directors: to blur the line between the dining experience and the educational, bringing the principles of good farming directly to the table. Barber has also received multiple James Beard awards including Best Chef: New York City (2006) and the country’s Outstanding Chef (2009). In 2009 he was named one of Time magazine’s 100 most influential people in the world.

What attracted you to the world of food? Much of it was out of necessity. My mum died when I was very young and my dad wasn’t much of a cook so I ended up making dinner for us most nights. I give my dad a lot of credit for trying but he was really more of a restaurant guy. After college, I thought I wanted to write, so I was cooking to buy time until I figured it out. For whatever reason, the cooking stuck.

How did you become so committed to sustainable foods and agriculture? Growing up, I spent my summers haying the fields at Blue Hill Farm, my grandmother’s farm in the Berkshires. I think my experience there imbued a sense of responsibility about the land, and about preserving open spaces. But ultimately, I am driven by flavour.

Ingredients that have been grown with great ecology offer a fantastic quality and personal story that are better than any seasoning I could provide.

What is the connection between Blue Hill (your restaurant) and Stone Barns Center for Food & Agriculture? Blue Hill is the for-profit partner (and tenant) of Stone Barns Center for Food and Agriculture, an 80acre non-profit farm and education center. The center is located on what used to be the Rockefeller’s family dairy back in the 1930s. It’s a very special place. And their mission to support sustainable farming practices informs much of our work in the kitchen. But the real question for me is: how can we create a culture of cooking and eating that supports the right kind of farming?

September 2018

We need to flip the equation and make meat more of a supporting actor for grains and vegetables.

September 2018

Credit by Ingrid Hofstra

Dan Barber Credit by Zucchini Stem Penne

Your book, The Third Plate: Field Notes on the Future of Food focuses on the future of American food. What is the future of American food? Broadly speaking, the future is going to be delicious. If for no other reason than more and more people are going to demand food with flavour and nutrition, and food with a story. There is no turning back to the food I grew up with in the 70’s and 80’s, which was about overly processed and packaged foods. More specifically, the future is going to bring breeders into the conversation. We’ve become more in tune with where and how our food is grown but we have turned a blind eye to the source of it all: seeds. Plant breeders, the people who create new varieties of fruits, vegetables, and grains, are the real architects of our food system. Unfortunately, much of their work is dictated by the handful of agricultural giants who control the seed industry. That means selecting for yield and uniformity above all else a seed planted in New York is expected to perform the same as it does in Mexico or even China. In the future, we will be breeding fruits and vegetables that are better suited for their local ecology, better adapted for organic farming systems, and of course: for better flavour.

Can local, organic farming feed the world? Put simply, our food system is failing. Over the past decade, industrialized agriculture has grown at the expense of our environment and health not to mention at the expense of great flavour. Studies show that diverse, holistic agriculture with integrated crop and livestock production, combined with proper soil management is the answer. And not only is this kind of agriculture essential from an ecological point of view, but it also often out-performs chemical monocultures in the long run. That said, we can’t have a discussion about the future of food without talking about how we eat. We need to encourage diets that reflect what our land can readily provide diets that support the whole suite of in between crops like clover and buckwheat

and rye. In the end, feeding the world is not about producing more food; it’s about changing the food we eat.

In a recent interview you noted that, “If we do our jobs right as food advocates and consumers, in 50 years many of the items that we now discard as “waste” will be expected parts of our everyday eating.” Can you elaborate? With wasted and with all the work being done around food waste the goal is not to just have one restaurant or one campaign. The goal is for those ideas to bleed into our food culture. Not so long ago, kale and quinoa were largely obscure ingredients. Now, they’re on menus everywhere. Why can’t the same happen with the waste and overlooked byproducts of our food industry? History shows us it can. The great cuisines of the world prove that with nearly every time tested dish: think Coq au Vin (a cardboard-like meat bird until you braise it in wine) or Prosciutto di Parma made from pigs fed the waste from making parmesan cheese.

September 2018

Dan Barber

Credit by Andre Baranowski

Critics of organic farming usually comment that the yields aren’t high enough. How do you respond to that? The yields in organic farming aren’t ‘high enough’ because organic farmers can’t plant corn and soy over and over again. They need to preserve the health of the soil naturally, which means creating complex crop rotations that include things like rye, barley, and millet so the yields are actually quite high as long as we eat it. It comes back to changing the culture of eating one that supports the kinds of rotations organic farmers are forced into growing.

In the book, The Third Plate, you question the sustainability of the farm-to-table principle. Why is the concept failing in its objectives? Because it hasn’t changed how we eat. We talk about food differently; we shop for food differently; but the basic architecture of our plate has remained largely the same. For example, a farm to table dinner might include a local grass-fed steak, but that’s still a 6 or 7 ounce steak centering the plate. Our land cannot support that type of diet. We need to flip the equation and make meat more of a supporting actor for grains and vegetables. In other words, cultivate a cuisine that works in harmony with our landscape, not against it.

You also recently noted that chefs have the ability to influence everyday food culture. In what way can they influence? By advocating for better ecology through better flavour. We’ve seen how chefs are able to catalyze food trends that trickle down to every level of society. By showcasing certain ingredients in their restaurants, they have the power to shift the food culture and transform the supply chain.

Can you share with us any projects you have in the pipeline for the coming years? These days, I’ve got seeds on the brain. The more plant breeders I talk to, the more I realize how much untapped potential they have. Recently, a potato breeder sent us some experimental trials of potatoes. What’s crazy is that the one we loved the most this jaw-droppingly delicious potato was one he was told to discontinue because a potato chip company said it was a little discoloured. Can you imagine how many other potentially delicious vegetables get thrown away by breeders for a similar reason? My focus going forward is to support breeding projects that create more delicious and more ecologically thoughtful ingredients.

September 2018

reating a Sustainable KITCHEN

Interview with

Kurt

Mifsud, CEO and Founder of the Mediterranean Culinary Academy

Credit by Stephen La Rosa

September 2018

he development of a nation’s food culture depends on a country’s ability to disseminate and evolve its culinary roots through education. Indeed, at the heart of every country boasting rich food traditions lie leading culinary academic institutions including Le Cordon Bleu and École Lenôtre in France, Academia Barilla in Italy, Hattori Nutrition College in Japan, the Culinary Institute of America in the US and Tante Marie Culinary Academy in the UK.

Credit by Robert Pace

I always felt that notwithstanding Malta’s rich and complex food culture, the country lacks a proper private culinary academy which offers a proper platform for food prospective individuals vying a career in the culinary industry or food enthusiasts to further develop their cooking skills. The establishment of the Mediterranean Culinary Academy is indeed a breath of fresh air which through their very interesting curriculum is offering the market genuine training programmes which seek to stress on the local culinary traditions, emphasize on sustainability and re-propose local food traditions. The portfolio of courses offered by the Mediterranean Culinary Academy is impressive as much as the curriculum of each of its founders which made it worth to discover more about their work. I called the CEO and founder of the academy, Kurt Mifsud to meet for a chat which he promptly accepted.

I met Kurt at their busy workshop in Valletta. Whilst preparing a coffee for both of us, he introduces himself noting that he does not have a chef background. “I am a Bachelor graduate in gastronomic science at the University of Gastronomic Science in Pollenzo. During my studies, I realised food was my passion.” He adds that whilst travelling, he had the opportunity to come across new ingredients and different food cultures. “My exposure to food increased my interest and determination to invest in gastronomic dissemination. What started with a pop up restaurant thanks to a private investor and four friends who shared the same vision fast developed into a fully-fledged academy. What people told us was close to impossible, quickly turned out to be a tangible proposition.” The Mediterranean Culinary Academy is the first educational establishment of its kind. The Academy September 2018

KURT MIFSUD is focused on giving its students the technical abilities to excel in any culinary role, whether they are home cooks or professionals. It is intrinsically committed to developing Mediterranean cuisine in particular, as well as leading the way with regards to sustainable agricultural practices. Kurt notes that “the Academy revolves around a unique set of contemporary values that places the food cycle at the core of everything it teaches.” From its one-day and hobby courses to its professional training for chefs, every student will be provided with a wealth of information and skills on how to make delicious, fresh food in the most sustainable manner possible. Kurt notes that “it is this that sets all Mediterranean Culinary Academy apart in a world that critically needs to become ever-more globally aware and ecologically proactive.” I ask him about their teaching methodology. Kurt tells me that “our approach is quite different. We start with the premise that we do not know it all. We are only guiding people on how it should be done. We are also very open with our sources. We have created a network of NGOs, young producers and other key entities and individuals in the industry with whom we work closely. Our aim is to move local gastronomy forward. We are trying to build a gastronomic movement to move the concept forward.” He adds that “it is all about being passionate, innovative and work with the right people.” He proudly tells me that to date they trained over 220 food enthusiasts whose ages astonishingly range between 23 to 83. “We are pretty happy with what we have achieved. We had our share of disappointments yet life is made of ups and downs. What really matters is that you find a way to move forward.” Our conversation inevitably focuses on local produce. Kurt points out that “a local product is definitely good. The fact that it is freshly picked makes it definitely better.” He notes that we have access to fresh fish and to high quality pork. From a viticultural point of view, our country is blessed with several indigenous grape varieties of Æellewÿa and Girgentina, which are producing some excellent wines of distinct body and flavour. From a food point of view Malta boasts several high quality products including potato, citrus, carob, figs, strawberries, tomatoes, honey, pomegranate, and olives as well as the small Malta June pear. Kurt stresses on the distinct taste of local olives and comments that, “We are currently working with 12

September 2018

Credit by Robert Pace

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com September 2018

KURT MIFSUD

local producers on the production of an endemic olive oil. The original species is from Bidnija however the grove from which we produce our oil is in Wardija. It is called Bidni. The ‘Bidni’ variety is endemic to Malta but, until just 10 years ago, it was virtually unknown, with the tree thriving only in a stretch of woodland between Bidnija and Wardija. On average, a ‘Bidni’ harvest produces less olive oil when compared to other varieties, particularly as the fruit is picked very early on in the season.”

We changed recipes and have created new concepts with basic fish. We consult with NGOs like Fish for Tomorrow and with experts in the industry. You can get good fish but you cannot have it every day. You need to know when specific fish is available.” Given that autumn is associated with dolphin fish, I ask him what are his views about such fish. “Dolphin fish is a great fish with a pleasant taste. It is all about catching it at the right time. Our mode of catch is very sustainable and rekindles memories of our past. For many lampuki is associated with home traditions where it is often served fried, baked or as a pie.”

Credits by Stephen La Rosa

I ask him to what extent does he feel local produce is appreciated to which he promptly points out “very little.” He adds that it is ironic as people’s perception is positive, yet restauranteurs selection of produce is dictated by convenience. He remarks that the government needs to invest in measures which seek to protect and promote local produce. “Unless there is such a strong push from the government’s end, respect and appreciation towards local produce will be poor.” Our discussion also touches on sustainability. He notes that there are products which are under utilised. “I believe there is a lot of potential for goat and mutton. The same goes for chicken, especially the black chicken.” On the hand, he adds that the sea offers us several products we often do not give demerit to including mackerel, bogue and saddled sea bream.

September 2018

In line with the concept of sustainability, we also talk about foraging. Foraging is the area of expertise of Keith Abela who has been practicing the profession for the past years. Kurt admits that the major challenge with foraging is that it is limited and there is a lot of ignorance on the subject. He also adds that “sustainable foraging if done well offers us the possibility to give value to something natural. Having said that, you risk a wipeout of indigenous plants.” Whilst finishing off my last sip of coffee, I ask him what do they have in store. “We are busy working on new courses aimed at attracting a wider audience. We are also working on the expansion of our oil project. Moreover, we are working closely with local producers and NGOs so as to continue promoting a sustainable kitchen. Indeed, a very busy agenda ahead!”

Il-Ftira Maltija

Il-ħobża Maltija għandha rwol ewlieni fl-istorja kulinarja ta' pajjiżna, u tagħmel parti integrali mit-tradizzjoni kulturali Maltija. Minkejja l-bidla moderna fid-drawwiet tal-ikel u t-tnaqqis fil-konsum tal-ħobż per capita, l-Maltin xorta għadhom jieklu l-ftira Maltija, ħobża ċatta f'għamla ta' diska. Dan it-tip ta' ħobż kienu jsejħulu schiaccatain, bħalma nstab f'dokumenti tas-seklu tmintax.

Id-Direttorat tal-Kultura qiegħed jilqa’ l-applikazzjonijiet biex jinkludi elementi ta’ wirt kulturali intanġibbli li għandhom importanza nazzjonali għall-Inventarju Nazzjonali. Il-formoli tal-applikazzjoni jistgħu jitniżżlu minn www.ichmalta.org

MINISTERU GĦALL-ĠUSTIZZJA, KULTURA U GVERN LOKALI

September 2018

www.ichmalta.org

September 2018

Interview with Chef

Massimo

Bottura, Owner of Osteria Francescana

The

Value of SimpleThings

here is a consensus among food critics that Chef Massimo Bottura is one of the greatest chefs the world has come across. Chef Massimo Bottura is a master and an artist who speaks like a poet. He is a genius with a gastronomic philosophy which is not necessarily consonant with our conventional understanding of food. In a recent interview it was noted that; "stepping into the mind of Massimo Bottura should come with a warning. It entraps, captivates, and seconds later, you're lost in reverie; that is his fantastical sphere, questioning whatever you thought you knew about food." His restaurant Osteria Francescana in the small town of Modena has been steadily classified as one of the World's 50 Best Restaurants, and this year, the gem of Italian gastronomy is back to claim the number one spot. In this exclusive interview Chef Bottura talks about his gastronomic experience, the daily inspirations behind his passion for food and his vision of how society can tackle the issue of food waste.

Credits by Paolo Terzi

September 2018

You have often noted that "the main ingredient that can’t be missed is an idea." Can you elaborate? The main ingredient that can’t be missed is an idea. I will keep on saying it forever that it’s not just about the quality of the ingredients, but the quality of ideas. It doesn’t mean a thing to buy the best Piennolo tomatoes if you don’t know how to handle them. It would be just wasted and thrown away! That of the kitchen is a manual labour that could be boring, repetitive and meaningless, if the chef doesn’t act like a thinking man. Cooking is a matter

September 2018

of mindfulness, being conscious of the potential power of a scented extra-virgin olive oil, a particular technique, a fleeting intuition that might run away, blend them all together and make them happen on a plate into edible bites of ideas. So my advice is bring your mind into the kitchen. Read. Travel . And be a citizen of the world. Cooking is not just manual labour but also a thinking man’s job. One of the most valuable ingredients or tools in the kitchen, and one often left behind, is the mind….and if you really think about it, the only 0 kilometre cooking going on is taking place in our minds.

MASSIMO BOTTURA

In what way does Osteria Francescana feed the eager mind? It takes consciousness, vision and intuition to create a recipe. We challenge ourselves every time as if it was the first, over and over again. Everything we think, see and learn gets squeezed into our cuisine: this requires open mind and open eyes on the world, to not take anything for granted and learn from every experience, failure and success. We created a laboratory of ideas where we make culture on a daily basis, where we get in touch with farmers, artisans, fishmongers that grew up with us and shared our philosophy, those who

enable us to transfer emotions to our guests through the ingredients that they deliver to us everyday. Our kitchen is not a recipe book, a list of ingredients or a showcase of techniques: it is a narration of our landscape, our passions, our memories, and culinary heritage. Our research brings us in many different directions, but we constantly keep in mind where we are, in space and time, because this defines who we are. We know which is our place in the world. Culture brings knowledge. Knowledge leads to consciousness. From consciousness to a sense of responsibility, it is a very small step. Because consciousness couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t

September 2018

MASSIMO BOTTURA

September 2018

lead anywhere else if not here: it brings us to be responsible of each other, inside our team first, and then outside, towards our community. It’s time for chefs to go outside their kitchens, to take outside everything we’ve accumulated in years of experience, hard work, sacrifices, but even satisfactions and acknowledgments.

Your book, Bread is Gold is a metaphor for giving value to the simplest things in life that we often overlook. Can people positively impact food wastage and hunger? Bread is Gold is about making extraordinary meals with ordinary (and even sub ordinary) ingredients. Yes, it’s fabulous to have perfect, fresh vegetables and organic meat, and artisanal cheeses. But if you don’t have those ingredients, believe me, you’re still able to make something healthy, seasonal and delicious. The recipes from Bread is Gold prove this again and again. Each chef brought their culinary culture, heritage, but most importantly, their childhood memories to the table. Bread is Gold shares so much more than recipes: it’s about personal stories and ideas about how to cook with the ingredients you have available. The title Bread is Gold is a metaphor for giving value to the simplest things in life that we often overlook. Such as the milk soup recipe I and many other Italian kids grew up with, or the endless recipes that use day-old bread created by the chefs at Refettorio Ambrosiano, and included in the cookbook. Bread is Gold is a way at looking at the world, looking at your pantry and finding inner beauty in the humblest ingredient. Cooking is a call to act a recipe, after all, is a solution to a problem.

In recent years we have noted a reverse trend favouring what is often defined as cucina povera. What lies behind such increase in trend? I think it’s a matter of increased awareness and a deeper respect for ingredients. I’m an Italian chef. As so, I am very lucky to rely on the golden rules of Italian culinary tradition. Every cuisine has a way of working. The Italian Cuisine has traditionally been one where very little is wasted. This is because there was great famine and poverty in Italy before the wars. Every part of an animal is used, every part of a

September 2018

MASSIMO BOTTURA

vegetable and even left-over ingredients were used. We practice this in our kitchen at Osteria Francescana and try to teach young chefs to be resourceful with ingredients, to not be wasteful, to have respect for the food that they are preparing but also the food they eat daily. Our staff meals are healthy and fresh because we believe in the regenerative power of food. Every chef in every restaurant can highlight the real value of food in very simple ways. First, using ingredients in their wholeness, from nose to tail, as the Italians say. Use vegetable peels and scraps, fish and meat bones to make broth. Second: don’t stop at the appearance. You can’t imagine how much good food is thrown away because it is ugly, say a brown banana, or is close to the expiration date, say a container of ricotta cheese, that is still perfectly good to cook with. So often these products are taken off the shelves and thrown away when they could be given to charity organizations. Ugly fruits and vegetables can taste just as delicious as beautiful ones, and sometimes even more, in the case of the brown (over mature) bananas which when

used properly, like to make gelato or banana bread, is even more delicious. It is often said of a person that he or she is “beautiful inside”. A browned banana, a bruised fruit has still a huge potential in terms of smells, flavours, texture. The responsibility of the chef as well as that of all of us, cooking at home, is to find that inner beauty into each product. Third, take the best of the ingredients from every stage of their lifespan. Straight out of the oven, a loaf of bread is good enough to be eaten as it is. The day after, it will be perfect to make pappa al pomodoro or bread pudding. After two days, the bread will make perfect breadcrumbs for meatballs, passatelli and cakes. That’s what the real beauty is: to make something valuable out of something that might be seen as not having any value at all. We often say, “Something recovered is something gained.”

What will the future global cuisine look like? I believe that the most important ingredient for the future of food is Culture. Why? Because Culture breeds Knowledge. Knowledge leads to Consciousness. When we become Conscious we are one short step away from becoming Socially Responsible. Culture is the key. September 2018

September 2018

Credits by Melvin Mifsud

Creating Something

Extraordinary Interview with Chef

Andrew

Borg, Executive Chef at Risette

ndrew Borg is regarded by many critics as one of the best talents the local culinary industry has ever produced. His vanguard approach and undisputed flair has amazed all those who had the opportunity to taste his food at Risette. His work is a game of precision where every ingredient has a specific role and contributes to an impressive final product. Every dish spells out his depth in the industry and his undisputed talent. Andrew shared with us his early years in the food industry, his work at Risette, and his plans for the future. September 2018

I recently read you were attracted to cooking whilst reading a book by Anton Mossimann. In what way did it inspire you? It was the first professional cooking book I ever read when I was 11 years of age. I didn’t understand anything but I was impressed by the photos of food. Although the style of food, nouvelle cuisine, did not last, I was attracted to the minimalism and the simplicity of the way food was presented. Again, I must stress that I did not know anything about the ingredients or this style of food back then. However, this was the first sign that I wanted to pursue this career. Indeed, I went with my father to buy my first Victorinox paring knife.

In what way did your experience with Chef Claude Bosi help you develop further your talent in the kitchen? 26

September 2018

Back in 1999, I wanted to work with Alain Passard. His food back then was already exceptional, and this was much before Chef’s Table, and Vivaldi music playing in the background. However, my letters to go work there were refused (no emails back then). Then, in 2001, I read about this new restaurant in Ludlow on a magazine called The Caterer where the chef patron was the sous chef, together with Pascal Barbot, at Alain Passard’s restaurant, L’Arpège. The following week, I was on my way to Ludlow to eat there. Within a month, I went for my first stage. The kitchen had only six burners (no inductions or water baths). Chef Bosi was the first one to come in at 7am and the last one to leave at the end of the service. He was hands on, starting with the bread in the morning, and doing as well the pastries, and butchering of all meats. He cooked large joints of meat and fish on the bone. Menu

ANDREW BORG changed almost every day, sometimes even from lunch to dinner. This led him to win two Michelin stars. The food he was cooking 18 years ago was innovative, and not easily found in the UK. I went for another 2 stages and every time I came back to Malta, I was not happy. I knew it was difficult to reach those standards.

Critics consider you a non-conformist whose work distances itself from tradition and habits. To what extent do you agree with such definition? I do not consider myself to be a non-conformist. However, we are on an island and this in itself is limiting. Thus, there is the need to work with the ingredients you have available, and that sometimes is challenging, especially on a Monday afternoon when you need to plan for the whole week. Thus, there is the need to adopt a different approach in the kitchen - we first

buy the ingredients, next we prepare the ingredients as we deem best, and finally create a menu. Together with my head chef Kurt Micallef and pastry chef David Tanti, we use common sense and pragmatism to come up with a menu every day. This is not easy, and in the beginning this proved to be difficult to find kitchen staff ready to work with this approach. Not that it has become any easier today.

You were the chef patron of the famous restaurant, Black Pig which closed its doors in 2016. What led you to close the restaurant notwithstanding its popularity among food enthusiasts? Black Pig was never meant to be a long term project. I wanted Black Pig to serve as a platform for myself to lead me to other bigger projects. Black Pig was experimental and daring. Opening my own

September 2018

ANDREW BORG

restaurant allowed me to be more adventurous and afforded me to do mistakes. After 5 years, I felt the need to take the next step.

Your cuisine is vegetable driven. Is there enough awareness in Malta towards a vegan diet? Vegetable driven cuisine means giving importance to vegetables the same way you give to meat and fish. For instance, at the moment, Kurt is working on kolhrabi katsobushi while it is becoming more difficult to stop David from using vegetables in his desserts. We are always experimenting, for instance with fermented vegetables and miso to create something new. I respect people following vegan or vegetarian diets but one cannot expect to come on the day with such requests expecting us to cook for them.

Good produce is extremely expensive in Malta. In what way does it impinge on creativity in the kitchen? I remember the time when it was possible to buy second cuts of meat or fish and create a reasonably priced dish. Unfortunately, that time is no longer. Prices of all ingredients have skyrocketed. The only way forward to maintain current price levels while still being creative is to offer less choice of individual dishes and serve instead tasting menus. This is the direction Risette is heading to.

In a recent interview, you noted that, "you refused opportunities that would have put you in a comfort zone." What different challenge did Risette offer you? Risette is the flagship restaurant of Casa Ellul. The high reputation and prestige synonymous with this boutique hotel was already challenging to start with. The attention to detail of Matthew and Andrew Ellul, evident at Casa Ellul, and their vision were enough to

convince me to open Risette. It took one long coffee and a handshake to seal the deal. It was important not only to match the high standards already reached by Casa Ellul but also to exceed them by doing the best fine dining restaurant in Malta, and by this I am not referring to any local awards but in providing our guests with a full dining experience.

Your experience at Black Pig was characterised by resistance. "People had a culture shock, some tried the restaurant never to return." What different proposition are you offering at Risette and how are customers reacting to your work? As I said before, Black Pig was the place where I could experiment and be adventurous. Perhaps, I was a bit extreme in my approach but it gave me the tools and experience needed to take certain decisions today without hesitation. I was the first one in Malta to offer an Ă la carte menu comprising of only 4 starters and 4 main courses and a carte blanche. Most of the time, I was deciding for the guests what they were to eat depending on the questions asked or their hesitations whilst we took their order. All this made it easier when we came to open Risette, and people have so far welcomed what we are offering them. In fact today people that choose to dine at Risette do not want safe choices.

In what way does Risette stand out of the crowd? The team. We have people that do their utmost and are continuously striving for excellence and always wanting to do better. I believe that this is what makes Risette stand out.

What's next for Chef Borg? There are many projects in the pipeline. In the immediate future, we want to focus more on pastries and bread. Personally, I want to pursue a course in hotel management in Switzerland.

September 2018

Connecting Nature

Culture Interview with

Alex

Atala, Founder of D.O.M 30

September 2018

Credits by Ricardo D'Angelo

Your immersion in the world of food was by chance. How did it all start?

any food critics consider Chef Alex Atala as one of the most intriguing characters currently at the forefront of fine dining. A former punk DJ who was classically trained as a chef in Europe, Chef Atala opened his exclusive São Paulo restaurant D.O.M. an acronym derived from “Deo Optimo Maximo" (God is optimal and maximum) in 1999. during the past nine years, the outlet has developed a unique style of cuisine based on the discovery and exploration of Brazilian ingredients combined with a commitment to finding sustainable solutions to sourcing them to the benefit of the Amazon and its people. The gastronomic level reached over the past years is such that D.O.M has consistently ranked well in “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2016 Guide“. Chef Atala shares with us his career path, his views on Brazilian food, his strong interest in sourcing unique ingredients from the depths of the Amazonian jungle and his views on the principle of sustainability in the food industry.

I first went to Europe at 18 to live the dream of music. To pay the bills, I painted walls, but to get a permanent visa I had to enroll into a school of some kind. A friend in the same situation as I was in enrolled in a cooking course. So I went with him and enrolled in the Hospitality School of Namur, in Belgium. In the beggining, it was quite frightening. I started out as a helper, peeling potatoes and washing dishes. I couldn’t see myself as part of such a synchronized gear as that, so I almost gave up. But, when I first got to touch the fishes, fresh vegetables, when I got to truffle and mushroom season… that’s when I felt my life references taking shape.

Your restaurant, D.O.M (Sao Paulo, Brazil) means “God is optimal and maximum.” What lies behind your choice of name? Curiously, that is a sentence that has always “stalked” me. When I lived in Italy, my house was across the street from a church that had that saying written on the door. My ex-wife also used to work in a place in which this sentence was present. Once I asked the priest of that church what the phrase meant and I was amazed by its meaning.

September 2018

What are the main characteristics of Brazilian food? The length of our territory is so enormous that it creates a huge diversity in many aspects. We have almost a continental size and thus inside one single country one can find many different cultural aspects on ways to deal with food. This also gives us a giant variety of ingredients. Excellence can only be reached with repertoire. With all the ingredients our country provides, its easy to acquire that repertoire.

Which international chefs have influenced your style of cooking?

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com

Many. I believe that all the great chefs have made at least one plate that has really touched and inspired me somehow. Joel Robuchon with his purée. Bocuse with his vegé soup. Bernard Loiseau with the water-based deglazings (the deglazing itself is something very present in my professional life). Michel Bras with his outstanding gargouille. Ferran Adrià with his Países dish. Definitely, that was a plate that has deeply marked me. Andoni! He is a guy who really inspires me not only by his dishes, but also by the way he thinks and manages to express himself. A few others can be quoted such as The Roca brothers, René Redzepi, David Chang, Daniel Humm. Japan, as a whole context, has always been and always will be an inspiration. Regarding Japan, I have traveled there a few times and, during these periods spent there, the Japanese cuisine managed to captivate me in quite an intense way. My visits were profound and turned to studying purposes. After that period, one word is certain to define my impressions: enchanted. The Arabian cuisine, somehow, too. After all, I am Atala.

September 2018

ALEX ATALA

What does fame mean to you? When I first started, in the late 80’s, I could never imagine that my job would allow me to be in TV or cover magazines such as TIME. Back in those days, being a cook wasn’t a cool job, especially in Brazil. We would take off the dolman to go shopping, it wasn’t polite to show up in places wearing your work uniform. Today, you go to the mall and people are wearing it! It’s the confirmation that being a chef became pop. Today the chefs are public figures with respected voices, as the advertisers in the 80’s or the supermodels in the 90’s. You put the dolman on and suddenly you gain superpowers. That is how I live gastronomy and that is what I want to do until the day I die.

In a recent interview you remarked that tucupi is the taste of Brazil. Can you elaborate? Manioc is the only ingredient that can be found in all social classes, from the richest to the poorest. For the Brazilian tradition, we peel the manioc, grate it and press it. When you press it, you obtain a sort of milk and the starch comes down. That starch we call tapioca. Most people think tapioca is Asian, but actually, it is Brazilian. The versatility and capacity of the manioc as an ingredient is impressive. You can still extract two other products from it: when fermented, the broth becomes tucupi; and the pulp can be transformed into manioc flour. From these three ingredients, it is possible to make many dishes. I can state for sure that, in the history of D.O.M. Group, at some point we have used all of these three products.

Can you share with us your recipe of pineapple with ants? There is actually no point in sharing this recipe, because there is almost no preparation involved in it at all. The one thing we do is give the pineapple a special treatment so it gets the perfect square shape and that’s it. All the flavour comes from the natural flavour of the Amazonian ant.

September 2018

ALEX ATALA

What are your views about sustainable food? What needs to be done to ensure a proper sustainability? I believe that if we ask ten people what eating well means, probably, ten different answers will come up. However, if we ask these same ten people what bad eating means, we will find a common understanding. With that in mind, it becomes possible to trace a path to the answer. I don’t think people need to be taught how to cook, act or eat. I do believe, though, that people should act more accordingly to their personal ethics. Don’t buy or eat something you don’t agree with. That generates a new demand and the market adjusts to it.

Can you tell us about ATÁ? ATÁ Institute is an initiative created with the proposal of bringing together knowledge and eating, eating and cooking, cooking and producing, producing and nature. Founded in April 2013, it is composed by a multidisciplinary team which has the participation of photographers, business men, advertising professionals, one anthropologist and a journalist.

September 2018

Do you have any projects in the pipeline? I speak for myself as a chef and for D.O.M. Group as a whole when I say we are moved by challenges. It’s been almost 20 years of authorial, Brazilian ingredients based cuisine at D.O.M. and, from that idea to appreciate what is ours other projects were born. In came Dalva e Dito to rescue the comfort food of all the regions of Brazil; afterwards, A∑ougue Central, to show that it is perfectly possible to eat sustainable quality meat made in Brazil; then Bio, to prove that, with a little bit of heart, not one single part of any ingredient needs to be thrown away. Not to mention ATÁ Institute, Retratos do Gosto (our products brand), 7 Gastronomia by Alex Atala (our buffet service), and so it goes. Today, thanks to a lot of hard work and amazing people, all business are doing very well, but it felt like the time came to try something new, perhaps the biggest challenge so far, and that something new will be D.O.M. Hotel. A hotel that large, especially in that region of São Paulo, is not a child’s play. However, there is only one way to know if it’s right: living it.

September 2018

Credit by Daniel Silva

rom the Andes

to the

Amazon

Interview with

Virgilio

Martinez, Chef & Restauranteur - Central Restaurante

(Lima, Peru) & Lima (London, United Kingdom)

hef Virgilio Martinez is considered by many as a genius for his incredible way how he brings together whole eco-systems in his kitchen. Every plate tells a story of Peru's incredible rich biodiversity which stretches from the Andes mountain range running up its centre, the Pacific Ocean to the west and the Amazon Basin to the east. Indeed, travel forms the backbone of his restaurant, Central, opened in 2008 with his wife, PĂa, and sister, Malena, in the Miraflores area of Lima, Peru. His work has attracted the interest of food enthusiasts with his restaurant quickly making its way up the list of The Worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s 50 Best Restaurants. Chef Martinez shares his interest in Peru's rich biodiversity, his culinary approach and his plans for the future.

September 2018

Credit by Gustavo Vivanco

What attracted a skateboarder to the world of food? I got injured being young and with hopes of becoming a pro. It pushed me to look elsewhere. Cooking needs the same decissiveness and determination. As I entered the first professional kitchen as a trainee I was convinced that was my place.

In 2013, you established Mater Iniciativa Project at Central in Lima. Can you tell us more about the project? Mater Initiative is an association that was created to research and know products in their origin and try to understand them in a more complete context than only the scientific knowledge. We invite other disciplines to participate in this knowledge process and, in this line,

September 2018

we have been developing different projects. We have two locations: Lima and Cusco. In Cusco in MIL Centro we offer a space for development academic projects, research projects and we have organised in order to have two aspects: academic and cultural. At Mater we are growing and finding more ways to connect with other worlds, for example, we have connected with Mil in to the Andean world and we want to replicate the Mater method in the Amazonian world, which is our short-term project.

What does biodiversity mean to you and how does it fit into your kitchen? Biodiversity is a gift and the kitchen helps us to understand what we see in nature. People say that we have a vertical tasting menu because each of the 16 courses is a journey through ecosystems from a

VIRGILIO MARTINEZ

Credit by César del Río

specific altitude. Different cultures have known plants, roots, herbs and animals that have grown and continue growing in these ecosystems. So, the biodiversity is not an isolate from cultural relationships. It’s clear that new chefs will need to go to the fields and meet people that works with food because any story of this kind start with a relationship.

Peruvian cuisine has gained new momentum on the global gastronomic scene. What makes it so attractive? Peruvian cuisine is attractive because it is immersed into several cultures that have added to the local culture, that makes our cuisine one of different flavours, very easy to be identified in other counties and it is comfortable for anyone who does not know it. Also, we can say it’s an exportable cuisine because its products are exportable too. These products are famous because some of them are superfood and trends of healthy food is important for the growth of Peruvian food.

After Central you went on to open two restaurants in London and a new one in Lima. What's next? We are concentrating on controlled growth, but "local" as well. Before growing in number of restaurants, we are interested in quantity of content and grow in a transcending way. We seek to make concepts such as MIL that work because it is connected to a world that we do not know. To reach this point we have to think more about how we can make a different cuisine that has more relevance, that leaves messages and generates a positive impact on more people than just the people who participate in this company.

September 2018

DOUGHNUTS

Ingredients: 500g Strong plain flour, plus extra for dusting 250g Caster sugar 50g Cinnamon 7g Yeast 100g Salt 25g Chopped caramelized pistachios 50g Unsalted butter (room temperature) 2 Whole eggs (room temperature) Sunflower oil for greasing and deep fying

Method:  Rub together the flour, 50g of sugar, yeast and salt. Rub in the butter to form a breadcrumb like consistency. Add milk, eggs and mix until it forms a wet dough. Cover and leave to rest for 45 minutes.  Once slightly risen, knead the dough for 10 minutes. Even though it will be a very wet dough, but do not add any more flour, just shape it into a

ball and return to the bowl. Cover and leave to rest for another 90 minutes or overnight in the fridge, until it doubles in size.  Line a baking tray with cling film or baking parchment paper and grease with oil. Put the dough onto a floured surface and form into a long sausage shape and cut into 14 equal portions. Shape each portion into a ball and place on the greased baking tray. Leave to rest until the dough springs back when pressed.  Heat the oil in a deep fat fryer or use a deep pan with kitchen thermometer at 160°C.  Gently lower the doughnuts and fry for 3 to 5 minutes on each side, until golden brown. Remove from the hot oil with a slotted spoon.  Rest the doughnuts for a few minutes on kitchen paper to drain any extra oil, then, toss into the remaining caster sugar and cinnamon to coat liberally. Serve them onto a plate sprinkled with Hazelnut Chocolate sauce and a few caramelized pistachios. September 2018

Interview with Chef

Gaggan

Anand, Chef & Owner at Gaggan

Credits by fb//:allwecandid

September 2018

ushing Boundaries H

idden down a quiet alley in the Bangkok’s upscale Lumphini neighbourhood lies one the world’s best restaurants. Gaggan is more than just a name in the gastronomic world. Since his debut eight years ago, the Kolkata-born chef and owner Gaggan Anand has earned a global reputation for his effervescent personality and his boundary-pushing dishes. Thanks to what he calls “progressive Indian cuisine,” he put Indian food in the fine dining spotlight and has heavily contributed to Bangkok’s status as a worldclass dining destination on par with London and New York. It is with no coincides that his outlet has won numerous accolades among which the top spot on Asia’s 50 Best Restaurants list for four years in a row. In 2016 though, Chef Anand made headlines with his decision to close his outlet in 2020 to start a new venture in Japan. Chef Anand shared with us his journey in the world of food, his views on the industry and his next steps in the gastronomic world.

September 2018

In a recent interview, you noted that â&#x20AC;&#x153;after every 50 kilometers the food changes in India like the language, but all carries the same story.â&#x20AC;? Can you elaborate? Starting from Kashmir to Kanyakumari that is from the north to the south of India; the weather conditions, the produce, the palate, the language, the religion, the people everything has influence on our food. Some states eat super spicy food as based on the hot climate and in the cold the same dish would be prepared with much more fat.

How would you describe yourself as a chef?

I would define my cuisine as being progressive. It is constantly evolving.

Food and agriculture are absolutely connected with each other, in every aspect. Whatever we serve on a dish, if you break down each element to the basic, you find that it is rooted from agriculture. Nowadays, the industry is working more towards the sustainable food. We recently did a talk for Farm Africa and they are absolutely supporting sustainable food.

You are considered to be one of the major exponents of Indian cuisine. What is the best part of Indian cuisine?

After claiming the title of best restaurant in Asia for the fourth year in a row for your Bangkok restaurant, what are your views on winning it for the fifth time?

I am a Chef who never stops learning and cooking.

How would you define the cuisine at your restaurant?

There are lots of things which make Indian cuisine unique but I think that the best parts of it are the spices, its roots and its history of food.

What are your views about food and agriculture? Is the industry developing a more proactive approach towards sustainable food?

September 2018

It was an honour winning such a prestigious title four years in a row. We are still there for next year. Letâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s see what will be the ranking.

Interestingly enough, over the last few years, several high-profile chefs, notably France’s Sebastian Bras of Le Suquet in Aveyron, have asked to be stripped of their stars. Why are we experiencing such a controversial reaction from the industry? Every chef has a story to tell and have their own opinions and struggles. I believe we all need this as well. As that brings a recognition and name and fame. Of course consequent to the work we are doing in our restaurants.

You’ve said you’re going to leave Bangkok in 2020. Why would you leave now? I am keen to start something absolutely new. I absolutely need new inspiration and creativity. Gaggan would have been open for 10 years by then.

You also plan to release a cookbook that will be available online for free, on the last day of Gaggan. What lies behind such an amazing gesture? I believe that knowledge should be free.

What concept will your planned 10-seat eatery in Fukuoka convey? We are still working on it. But surely more theatrical than what I do now.

September 2018

Diablo Sugar Free is a one-stop-shop for all your sugar free needs, offering a wide seleccon of chocolate bars, Belgian chocolate wafers, cookies, muesli bars, chocolate spread and a seleccon of excellent sweets. We have recently extended our range with new amazing Sugar Free Cream Filled Sandwich Cookies (2 flavours, Vanilla and Extra Dark Cocoa) and No Added Sugar Wafers (2 flavours, Coconut and Chocolate Cream) and Sugar Free Orange Cake. The Diablo Sugar Free range of products are for people who want to decrease their sugar intake. The range offers consumers a delicious treat with no added sugar and without compromising on taste.

September 2018

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com.mt

WSalt orth One's

Executive Chef at

Vini e Capricci

by Abraham’s 48

September 2018

t the end of the day, you can’t compete with Mother Nature. If you’ve got a great tomato, just a pinch of sea salt is all you need.

Zac Posen

Credits by Alan Saliba

Sea salt

harvesting is probably Malta’s oldest industry. It dates back to the

Roman times and became popular during the time of the Knights of St. John. Its

large scale production started in the 19th century. Today, the sea salt harvesting industry has reduced significantly. Indeed, although there are around 40 salt pans remaining, only a few working salt pans are left in Malta and Gozo. The northern coastline of Gozo, past Qbajjar bay, is a chequerboard of salt pans stretching over three kilometres of land. Most are now unused but some, are still very much in production, and have been handed down through generations of the same family, producing an exceptional sea salt rich in minerals. The most famous active salt pans in Gozo are those situated in Xwejni.

Gozitan sea salt is famous for being rich in minerals and is prized for its purity and flavour. It is used to make sun-dried tomatoes, to preserve locally grown capers and to make sheep’s milk cheeselets (æbejniet). It is also essential in curing olives. Mixed with fennel seeds, sea salt is ideal to flavour any roasts especially potatoes, sliced in thick rounds and baked on a bed of onions.

September 2018

JIM BARRY WINES ARE EXCLUSIVELY IMPORTED AND DISTRIBUTED BY

gozitano agricultural village mgarr road, xewkija, gozo

t: +356 21563231 e: info@abrahams.com.mt

abraham's

When driving up from Mæarr harbour and heading to Victoria, I always make it a point to pay a visit to Abraham’s at the Gozitano Agricultural Village. Every time I drop by, I am impressed with the constant growth this company is experiencing. Above all I admire the vision of Abraham Said to take local fresh produce, all along with specific artisan imported goods to the next level. Over the past years Abraham brought on board one of Malta’s leading chefs, George Borg with whom he has created Ogygia. Ogygia captures the flavours of local produce and creates amazing fusions which spare no mercy to taste buds of any food enthusiast. Every jar tells a story of a farmer or producer who has worked to create such an amazing product. One of my favourite products is definitely Ogygia’s selection of sea salt variations. The strong taste of Xwejni sea salt is fused with orange, San Giovese wine, sun-dried tomatoes, Chardonnay wine and honey just to mention a few.

I met Chef Borg at the outlet in Xewkija where I had the opportunity to discover more about their connection with sea salt. Chef Borg needs no introduction. He is one of the greatest culinary experts in Gozo and a true ambassador of his country. George was born and raised on the island and is passionate about preserving the country’s culinary heritage. I start off our interview by asking him about the Ogygia brand; how did it all start and what do they seek to achieve? Chef Borg proudly states that “Ogygia is not just a name; it is a story of local produce and food traditions. The brand fuses local food elements with our passion for what the local land offers. We are strong believers in local produce and are confident that this project can take local tastes and flavours to the next level.” He adds that “in order to achieve our goal, we are working closely with local farmers and producers so as to make sure we develop a September 2018

September 2018

abraham's long term project. It is of great pleasure to see that a good number of those with whom we are collaborating are young, some of which even newly graduates.” Chef Borg also points out that the project is pretty much based on trust.” The source needs to be guaranteed. It is this detail which will make the difference and will help us stand out of the crowd. It is not a question of volumes. It is a matter of quality.” Notwithstanding his drive and enthusiasm, Chef Borg acknowledges the challenges they face. “We are literally working against the current. Our volumes are limited and certain industries are fading away. However, it is our duty to generate interest and ensure local food traditions and industries are kept alive.” We shift our conversation to sea salt. I ask him whether he feels that our sea salt is undervalued and underestimated. He sadly acknowledges that it is pretty much the case. “We often took our product for granted and never really appreciated the value it offers and its distinctiveness which has led to a situation where we are at risk to lose such a longstanding industry. Indeed, many salt pans have been abandoned. However, in recent years we have noted reconsideration by the market of local sea salt. There is a shift favouring its consumption. Locals seem to now be more aware on its value.” I ask Chef Borg what encouraged them to invest in salt and what makes their project so unique. He quickly clarifies that they are not reinventing the wheel. “The sea salt industry has been around since time immemorial. Sea salt was a source of how our ancestors preserved food in the absence of cold storage. It is also historically documented that during Napoleon’s stay in Malta, he was offered an orange granite, the process of which includes the use of sea salt. The consumption of local sea salt was an integral part of our food diet. It was only by time that we opted for other imported options. Our project is simply regenerating an industry which was slowly fading away, educating the industry on its food benefits and above all presenting the product in different options so as to offer the industry different solutions of how it can be used.” Chef Borg adds that their sea

salt can be used in various ways. A simple Caprese salad complemented with a dash of local olive oil and a pinch orange flavoured salt will make the trick. “Alone, it tells a very limited story yet when you present it together with other elements it creates a different concept. It is about creating the right experience.” I ask Chef Borg on the consumers’ health perception of salt. He points out that “It is a natural ingredient which makes it impossible to be a bad product. Salt is a mineral composed primarily of sodium chloride and is used in food for both preservation and flavour. Sodiumions are needed in small quantities by most living things, as are chloride ions. Salt is also involved in regulating the water content of our body. The sodium ion itself is used for electrical signalling in the nervous system. The problem lies when consumed in excess, like any other ingredient.” He also notes that “a natural can never be substituted by an artificial product. It is unfortunately the soft advertising we are exposed to which makes us look at certain products from a specific point of view.” I ask Chef Borg if he has any favourite sea salt variation. He quickly points out that “I am still impressed with the unique taste and flavour of orange sea salt. It is amazing. You hardly realise it is blended with salt.” I also ask him if there is any specific favourite dish in which salt plays the trick. He proudly refers to his salt cod tiramisu. He also refers to a specific salad he often prepares with a mixture of mint, fennel, parsley and marjoram among other ingredients which are exalted with some local oil and orange salt. The clock behind Chef Borg revealed that I am late for my next meeting and regretfully have to move on to conclude my interview. Prior to calling it a day, I ask Chef Borg a last question on what are their plans for the future. “We have come a long way yet there is still a lot to do. This is an experiment stage and we are identifying and monitoring the market’s development. I strongly believe this project has a bright future and has huge potential even beyond our shores. Step by step, we will reach our goals yet before we run, we need to walk.” September 2018

TPlate he Story in a

September 2018

Credit by Lido Vannucchi & Stefania Spadoni

Interview with

Enrico Crippa, Executive Chef at Ristorante Piazza Duomo

t is with no coincidence that Italy is regarded as one of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s gastronomic heavens in the world blessed with the likes of leading culinary masters including Massimo Bottura, and Enrico Crippa. Chef Crippa is a perfectionist with an undisputed talent to turn simple ingredients into jaw dropping dishes which have amazed all food enthusiasts who

had the opportunity to taste his work. Chef Crippa is regarded by many food critics as a magician who with a pinch of magic creates works of art in the town of Alba at the world renowned restaurant Piazza Duomo. His signature dishes, include a very special salad called 21, 31, 41, 51... Chef Crippa shared with us his journey in the world of food, this philosophy and his plans for the future.

September 2018

Your dishes give primary attention to the quality of the product and to the visual. Can you elaborate more on your cooking style? I tried to create a kitchen that was both contemporary, light and beautiful to look at. I am Italian but worked in France and in Japan. Each experience is clearly visible in my work. Ultimately though my cuisine conveys what I want or better, what I need. Notwithstanding every dish highlights the beauty of products extracted from my own vegetable garden and from the Alba territory, it also projects my own ideas and personality. If my own imprint is not visible, I would not be in a position to transmit emotions to my clients.

Your dishes have an oriental choreography. What lies behind such an oriental footprint? As I said earlier, I spent part of my career in Japan, cooking Italian food yet also tasting and carefully observing the way dishes were prepared in Japanese kitchens. I was impressed by their cleanliness and elegance, something I try to reproduce in my creations.

September 2018

You have recently commented that you no longer fear those moments when you lack creativity. How come? Creativity is a fundamental ingredient in my profession and I strongly believe that it is a natural gift one is endowed with; something one cannot explain, teach or pass over to others. In the creative process of a dish there is not a real incipit I am looking for; an idea can be born while I am at dinner, while I cook or while I ride up the hills surrounding Alba by bike. You can start with a savoury dish and end with the creation of a dessert and vice versa. There is no identical pattern for all dishes. Added to this is the experimentation and tasting of dishes. In this stage creativity moves to a second step where it meets the element of discipline. It is in this particular stage that the creative process leaves room for the real experimentation of the dish.

What role does the artistic element play in a dish? There is a strong emphasis on the artistic element in my dishes. I do believe in the importance of plating as it creates a stronger desire by the client to taste the dish presented.

ENRICO CRIPPA

A work of art creates an experience through what we see and feel.

September 2018

You have often noted that cuisine can be more artistic than a work of art. Can you elaborate? The value of a particular plate is totally different from that of a work of art. This is mainly driven by the sense they exalt. A work of art creates an experience through what we see and feel. A dish also exalts taste which if it creates the right experience, will remain ingrained in oneâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s memories forever.

I recently read about your legendary vegetable garden. What added value does an organic product offer to a plate? It offers a multitude of advantages. Apart from knowing what we are offering the client, we can decide at what stage to pick our product thus maximising its flavours and textures according to its maturation stage. It also offers us the possibility to serve our clients seasonal ingredients. Biodinamic agriculture creates an indissoluble bond with nature throughout the entire process from the land up to our kitchen in Piazza Duomo.

In a recent interview you have commented that â&#x20AC;&#x153;the major part of our dishes are tied to nature and to a territorial philosophy.â&#x20AC;? Can you elaborate?

Other flavours also available

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com

When I arrived here in Langa my knowledge of its cuisine was more as a food enthusiast rather than a chef. Before opening Piazza Duomo in 2005 I spent nearly two years in the area so as to better understand its deep roots and traditions. I used to regularly visit the local farmers, I used to eat in the local culinary outlets to familiarise with the traditional dishes and also worked as an internship in several restaurants where I had the opportunity to discover the secrets of local cuisine. I quickly understood that it was some sort of magic working in Langa in view of the high level of local produce. As from day one, I sought to create a healthy marriage which seeks to respect local traditions yet ensure my own imprint in every dish prepared. 58

September 2018

ENRICO CRIPPA

In what way does the kitchen effect your mood? Besides being my profession, working in the kitchen is my greatest passion. It is the place where I feel so inspired and at peace with myself. It is my mission to transmit my passion and inspiration in my culinary creations.

In what way is the autumn season represented in your work? This is a special time of the year when the white truffle of Alba is available, an ingredient which is ever-present in all autumn dishes at Piazza Duomo. It is an ingredient that can only be served raw in very thin shavings to exalt the main ingredients of every dish. The

main challenge lies in the ability to create dishes which go beyond the traditional battuta di Fassona or di Tajarin Pasta with butter. It is indeed a challenge to create dishes which are not overpowered by the intense flavours of the white truffle.

What should we expect from Enrico Crippa in the coming months? I will certainly be more involved in the restaurant, preparing for the coming busy months. Specific focus from my end will certainly be given to my role as chef, something I feel so committed to. September 2018

Boost your Energy Easy Tips to Naturally Increase Your Energy

Natural energy should last way longer than 4 or 5 hours. When you feel drained and tired it can be easy and convenient to grab an energy drink or large cup of concentrated coffee. But cheapand-quick energy sources will leave you feeling even more fatigued than you initially were once they wear off. I will give you advice on how to keep your energy levels high during the day in a natural way:

1. Drink fluids and stay well hydrated

The more water, the better. Staying hydrated keeps your organs functioning properly, which in turn keeps your energy levels in tip-top shape. Drink at least 1.5 litres of water during the day in divided volumes.

2. Take adequate amount of Anti-oxidants from your food

Blueberries, artichokes and tomatoes are great examples of foods packed full of antioxidants. Antioxidants are a clean energy source, meaning they can protect the body from future energy dips or stress.

3. Reduce your dependence on sugar

Sugar will provide a temporary energy increase, but it will lead you to crash a couple of hours later. Although natural sugar is OK, try choosing fruits low in fructose, such as citrus and berries, instead of ones high in sugar like cherries and kiwi.

4. Go for a cat-nap

boost of energy to push you through the day. In fact, one study found a 10-minute walk can increase your energy levels for up to two hours.

7. Watch your magnesium

8. Reduce alcohol consumption

Whether you’re a restless sleeper or you’re simply worn out from a long week at work, don’t be afraid to take a short nap. Keep it under 30 minutes to avoid interfering with your night time sleep. Caffeine boosts energy and may help in lowering the potential of Parkinson’s disease, diabetes, dementia and cancer. It can also ease migraine pain and improve concentration, memory and reaction time. If you don’t like coffee, try another source of caffeine, such as green or black tea to your inbox.

6. Go for a short brisk walk/ breath fresh air

If you work a desk job, this is particularly important. A brief walk and taking deep breaths can get your blood pumping and will provide you with a short

You might feel as if you sleep soundly with a drink or two in your system before bed, but the opposite is true. Alcohol actually disrupts deep sleep and will leave you feeling restless the following day.

9. Eating:

5. Caffeine can be good

Several studies that were conducted found women who had more magnesium in their diets were able to work out harder over a longer period of time. Whole grains and nuts (in particular almonds and cashews) are a rich source of magnesium. You can check your magnesium levels from a simple blood test.

Eat smaller meals more frequently. By eating a small meal every two or three hours, you maintain your brain’s steady flow of nutrients and hence you can avoid fatigue. If you prefer larger meals less frequently, make sure you don’t skip any. Watch foods that can upset your stomach or cause bloating. If this happens you might be intolerant to some foods.

10. Meditate:

Take 5 minutes in the middle of your day to meditate/breath deeply. It will improve oxygen levels to the brain and you will feel a surge of energy in your body.

Dr. Teebi is a Medical Consultant with special interest in allergy and allergy therapy studied and graduated in Allergy from the Imperial College London

Email: info@allergyclinicmalta.com September 2018

Local

Perspective

Interview with

Jonathan

Brincat Chef de Cuisine and Co-Owner at Noni Restaurant

September 2018

Credits by Brian Grech

he acquisition and preparation of food holds a central position in the development of societies, from prehistoric times to the present day. Apart from its physiological importance, food is also a cultural phenomenon. As a cultural object, food is a means through which humans develop a communal identity. Food is a paramount marker of ethnic consciousness and an important contributor towards the formation of historical identity.

September 2018

island provide us with several key products including dorado fish, pumpkin, and olives which exalt the creative mind of local chefs. I recently met Chef Jonathan Brincat over a coffee at his outlet, Noni, in Republic Street, Valletta where we discussed the beauty of local produce. I firmly believe Jonathan is one of the major exponents of the local culinary industry with his unique dishes which exalt the beauty and simplicity of local cuisine. As well defined by Marie Benoit, everything in his outlet is a 'profound pleasure'.

Notwithstanding a clear Maltese identity in various key areas, the country still lacks a clear local imprint in the culinary industry. Indeed, fifty years following Malta's Independence, Malta's culinary identity is still an open discussion. A key component of our food identity is certainly what our local land offers which includes the indigenous grape varieties of Ă&#x2020;ellewĂża and Girgentina, which are producing some excellent wines of distinct body and flavour as well as other produce such as local potato, citrus, carob, figs, strawberries, tomatoes, honey, pomegranate, and olives as well as the small Malta June pear. The local food industry also encapsulates foraging where the island is blessed with several interesting wild products including mushrooms, carrots, rucola and mulberries just to mention a few. Autumn is a very particular time of the year for local produce. The land and the seas that surround the

September 2018

We quickly set the tone on local produce where Jonathan points out that, "in terms of raw product, we are still scratching the surface. There is still a lack of understanding and appreciation towards local produce. We need to make a clear distinction between quality and quantity." He adds thats "We try to use local produce. We are blessed with some very good seasonal ingredients. Nothing beats some seasonal ripe tomatoes, fresh strawberries, local salt and local honey. We are also lucky to have access to a high quality pork. The major challenge in local produce is when it comes to beef. The product still lacks consistency." I ask him what makes local produce so special to which he promptly replies that "the secret lies in the concentration of taste hidden in each product. A local fig, olive or grape gives a unique taste to every dish they are added to. There is also something nostalgic when eating local produce. It rekindles in each and one of us childhood memories" Indeed, he is correct; A bite into some good fried rabbit, some ross il-forn or a Sunday roast quickly brings to mind the morning smell in my mother's kitchen or the unique smell which used to greet me at my grandmother's house. He adds that "Foreigners do really love our local produce. They also

Jonathan Brincat love hearing the story behind every plate. We recently included in our menu a date cake which foreigners really loved!" I ask Jonathan what are his views about local meats to which he promptly replies that "I would definitely go for pork. It has a unique taste and flavour. Moreover, the product is consistent and very reliable. Beef is still inconsistent and thus more challenging." He also points out that, "we often underestimate rabbit. It has such a particular taste which distinguishes it from its foreign counterparts. Nothing will beat a well cooked rabbit. moreover, it can be used in many ways." We shift on fish where he notes that "fish is very tricky and it much depends on the supplier you have. It is a question of being frank. Better advise when stock is not fresh or of a good quality. Ultimately a bad fish will have a negative impact on the entire supplier chain." I ask him what local fish is underestimated to which he promptly notes to be lampuki (dorado fish). "We are blessed with lampuki at the end of the summer season yet often tend to underutilise it. It is a pity as it offers so many cooking options." Jonathan points out that the quality of local produce depends on the source. "You need to build a good relationship with producers and local suppliers. I work with a very close circle of suppliers with whom I have built a very strong relationship based on trust and respect. I believe my size is an advantage as I can be more picky in the product I have. I was never too keen about big scale concepts." Whilst drinking my last sip of coffee, I ask him what future should we expect for local produce to which he notes that "local produce is so dynamic and can help us develop a clear food identity. It pretty much depends on us in the kitchen to give due merit to what our land offers. It is up to us to work closely together so as to ensure the local food industry stands out of the crowd. As Everett Hale once noted, "Coming together is a beginning; keeping together is progress; working together is success."

September 2018

TASTE

Autumn

Interview with

Brady Dalli, Executive Sous Chef at the InterContinental Malta

Credits by Brady Dalli

September 2018

he first brown leaves and cool weather announce the arrival of the Autumn season. Pumpkin, squash, and a vast range of meats take their toll teasing the imagination of local chefs. Indeed, Autumn is a time when Chef Brady Dalli is busy in his kitchen creating interesting dishes that reflect the beauty the land offers during this time of the year. Chef Dalli took some time off his busy agenda to share with us his views on this time of the year.

How does autumn change your mood in the kitchen? Autumn sets into motion a change in the vegetable market, thus necessitating a shift from light and colourful menus to earthly and heavier flavours. This change imbues in me a switch in direction, wherein I aim to create ‘comfort food’ with such delectable ingredients.

What produce do you associate with this time of the year? A myriad of ingredients come to mind - pumpkin, mushrooms, sweet corn, elder berries, pomegranate, chicken, dover-sole, skate, fresh lettuce, venison, guinea fowl.

What are you on the look-out during this season? I particularly enjoy this time of the year because I relish the opportunity to utilize certain cooking techniques, such as braising – in which food is cooked in an aromatic liquid in the oven.

Is there any particular dish you feel represents the autumn season? My personal representation for an ideal autumn dish would be a slow roasted venison fillet served with a mushroom ragout and pomme dauphine, accompanied with honey glazed sweet corn.

What words of advice would you give to food enthusiasts for autumn? My suggestion for any ‘foodie’ would be to venture into new territories and try out underused cooking techniques and ingredients that are usually overlooked for more readily available items.

Any projects in the pipeline for autumn? I am currently working on a new direction, but I cannot divulge any information at this moment in time.

September 2018

Credit by Julia Ripard

he Simple Act of COOKING FOOD

Interview with

Debbie Schembri, Freelance Chef and Owner of Barefoot and Curious

September 2018

he local food industry has yet another talent to be proud of. Young, smart and very outspoken, Chef Debbie Schembri has spent the past 3 years travelling the world working as a private chef on board luxury yachts followed by internships at 2 Michelin starred Coi in San Francisco and Noma in Copenhagen. She has returned back to the island dedicating her energies to her food concept, Barefoot and Curious and also working as a freelance chef. We catch up with Debbie as she tells us about her food concept, her time working as a young chef and her upcoming projects. .

What attracts you to cooking? There is something very tactile and emotional about cooking. I see it as both a form of play but also as a way to look after people. I have always loved entertaining and feeding people, especially if it means holding your breath for those few seconds before they look up and give you a smile that says thank you and well done. More than anything it is the multitude of ingredients that exist, the stories behind each product and the infinite possibilities that combinations allow for. It is the variables that sometimes scare people off that make it all the more fun for me.

You spent 3 years travelling the world. What brought you back to the island? After being lucky enough to see and fall in love with some really remote parts of the world by sea, whilst also discovering interesting ingredients and cultures, I eventually felt that I wanted to become more familiar with my own country again. Seeing the produce of elsewhere made me realise how very lucky I was to be from an island that offers some great ingredients and has such a culture of agriculture, fishing and eating. I also felt that Malta had come a long way in the food scene in the past 5 years and I was hearing of exciting things going on. Naturally, I also wanted to be able to spend more times with my friends and family.

September 2018

During your stint abroad, you had the opportunity to work internships at 2 Michelin starred Coi in San Francisco and Noma in Copenhagen. In what way has such exposure in leading eateries helped you develop your culinary skills? I decided to work as an intern in these 2 restaurants because I wanted to get back to learning from other people and I couldnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t think of a better way than learning from restaurants at the top of their game. The internships were a funny experience as I ended up learning very different things to what I thought I was going to. It was a bit of a mixed bag. Coi definitely taught me precision and speed as their style is very streamlined and each serving of a particular dish is practically a 3D printed image. I learnt a lot but I also realised that although beautiful, it was not the type of food I wanted to serve.

September 2018

As for Noma, it was an interesting experience in all senses of the word. The products that I got to work with were phenomenal. They were treated with such respect and dignity. The interns, however, were not. I was really shown a restaurant that worked on a bullying system and fear. I saw grown men treated like they were children, bullied and regress from healthy individuals to at one point having to be admitted to hospital because they were suffering from panic attacks. I definitely learnt that this was not an environment that I wanted to reproduce. Cooking intrinsically is about joy and human relationships. It loses any goodness when that is stripped away. I want anywhere I work and manage to be an environment that makes both workers and guests feel welcome and happy. I am aware this isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t what people want to hear about such reputable restaurants and this is by no means to

DEBBIE SCHEMBRI say that the food they are producing isn’t phenomenal. But I do think it is important to show a complete picture. I saw what it takes to produce such perfect dishes. Aside from the human element there were dishes that only required the first few outer leaves of a cabbage or the flesh of an apple and nothing else. Sometimes both restaurants tried to find ways to use the waste but there is only so much cabbage and apple that you can feed to staff or ferment. For perfection there is sacrifice. I found myself steering away from food that only a percentage of the population could enjoy and towards food that is more wholesome, colourful and hopefully more ethical too without losing its fun.

What lies behind the name Barefoot and Curious? The name came about by chance but makes reference to how I try to retain some positive qualities of being a child when it comes to food. I’m inquisitive and never want to stop learning. I also always want to remain grounded and am happiest when I’m wandering about exploring without shoes on.

What makes food one of the most exciting things in this world? Food is story. Each ingredient has a background and opportunity to learn about the human connection behind it. Each mealtime is an excuse to create stronger relationships and to learn more about the people joining us at the table; it is an occasion for happiness and for solidarity. Nothing quite brings strangers and people from different cultures together like a simple plate of food. There is so much process involved behind every ingredient that it makes it difficult not to find it exciting.

In a recent interview you said that when asked what you enjoy cooking most, your answer is nothing. Why? One of the things I find most appealing about cooking is the limitless amount of dishes you could ever cook. Even with just 3 ingredients you can create so many different things. The very fact that combinations are infinite makes cooking exciting. Cooking is one thing that I have a lot of patience for and that I will

never get bored of and that’s because it keeps me on my toes.

Tell us about your relationship with fresh seasonal produce? The thought of not using fresh and seasonal produce is foreign to me. I find it difficult to think of any other way to cook. I do the shopping for every meal personally so that I can pick out each vegetable and protein myself and make sure it is the freshest possible. Moreover, by going to the farmer’s market, talking to farmers, fishmongers and butchers I am always in the loop with what is in season, just coming in or out. Using an ingredient at its prime can be one of the most terrifying things because it is so perfect as it is and usually will taste best the less is done to it and will be ruined if you do too much.

What are your views about local produce? What are the major strengths and weakness when working with local produce? I think we have some really good quality fruit and vegetable produce, being brought to us by farmers who are trying to change practices that don’t make sense anymore - like the excessive use of pesticides. I have always thought that our summer fruits are some of the best around as they are naturally sweet. I think the quality of produce has a lot to do with the human connection behind it. Just like cooking; if someone cares about what they are growing or rearing and treat it with respect it will taste noticeably different. I also genuinely believe that we have some of the tastiest pork around with a good balance of fat to meat ratio. I do wish we would see more goat and lamb/ sheep being raised as it used to a few decades ago. As for fish I want to start meeting more fishmongers who are clued up about how to cook fish that isn’t as popular with the Maltese public or of fish that are bycatch. Too often I see the same fish like salmon and Tuna being sold where there are so many other options available. We are so lucky to live by the sea where fish is just part of who we are yet there is a tendency to take that for granted. September 2018

September 2018

DEBBIE SCHEMBRI

More knowledge from suppliers would mean a gradual move to more ethical and sustainable buying habits.

How does the concept of food sustainability fit into your kitchen? Wherever I can I try to recommend fish that is less popular or caught wild in Maltese waters instead of the usual suspects like salmon, tuna or snapper. People are often scared of cooking something different themselves, but they tend to trust someone who has more experience. This in turn may encourage them to try buying something different themselves next time round. I also try to use cuts that arenâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t as popular but hold more flavour than traditional ones. An animal should not be utilised only for its prime cuts but for as much of it as is edible. The same goes for vegetables. A simple example; broccoli stems, when tender, are just as tasty as the head and should be incorporated into a dish rather than thrown away. I always buy quantities of things that I need rather than in bulk so that things do not go past their prime. I feel like there is still a lot of room for improvement and would like to start composting in the next coming weeks. I believe chefs have a very big responsibility in educating people. It all starts at home and if I am not trying to be as sustainable in my own cooking then how can I expect others to be?

What is next on your agenda? I am currently focusing on my private dining clients as I have been travelling doing some voluntary work related to cooking over the previous few months. However, I will be planning a few small community cooking projects. These will hopefully include one that will highlight food waste and others that will give members of our society who do not have the chance to eat out in a restaurant the opportunity to do so and partake in the social experience. There should also be a few collaborations happening towards Christmas time.

September 2018

Interview with

Juan Mari

Arzak,

Chef & Owner of Arzak Restaurant

September 2018

t is commonly agreed by all food critics that Juan Mari Arzak, is one of the great masters of New Basque cuisine. Owner of the eponymously named Arzak restaurant, his glorious career is impressive boasting three Michelin stars for over two decades and the World's 50 Best Restaurants Lifetime Achievement Award in 2011. He is a genius who together with his daughter Elena, has over the past years successfully defined and perfected the combination of research, modernity, and centuries of Basque tradition. Chef Arzak shared with us his early steps in the food industry, his philosophy and the concept of New Basque Cuisine.

The

Credits by Restaurante Arzak

Basque Maestro

How did you get in the food industry and where did this all start? I was born here, I am the third generation of the family, I went to higher school here but also spent eight years in a school in Madrid, I had asthma so I needed to change the climate for a while, I came back to San Sebastian for the holidays. My father died when I was nine years old, I am the only child. My mother was a chef, during the holidays I would come here and help mother, as there was a lot of work to do! Before I wanted to be a chef I went to Madrid to study technical architecture for one year - I got this wrong completely! I followed my friend, he did it and I thought I could do it too. I liked the idea of food and another friend said, you can study Gastronomy - so I changed, it was a nice surprise I never knew it was available. I went to Madrid to study food at a cooking school. In the summer I went to work wherever the school sent me! When I finished school I made the military service but I knew that Gastronomy was for me, my mother specialised in catering for wedding receptions and small banquets here in this restaurant.

You are famous for having helped spark a revolution in your homeland in the 1970s. In what way have you redefined Basque cuisine and in what way have you paved the way for later Spanish visionaries? In the year 1976, there was a small revolution called nueva cocina vasca, new Basque cooking. In this year, the magazine Club de Gourmets organized a round table in Madrid and invited Paul Bocuse and Raymond Oliver from the French nouvelle cuisine, myself and Pedro Subijana of Akelarre and others. Me and Pedro were so impressed when they listened to Bocuse and Oliver that when we came back to the Basque region, we started our own revolution. The New Basque Cooking movement sought to recover lost recipes, ensure traditional cuisine is cooked in a proper manner and take good care of the abundance of produce from the sea on one side and the fertile Ebro valley on the other. All elements had to be presented in a more creative manner. The revolution helped futurize Basque cuisine and paved the way for later Spanish visionaries such as Ferran AdriĂ who I consider to be a genius.

September 2018

How did the Arzak food dynasty change in style over the past decades? The Basque DNA was and remains at the heart of our kitchen yet in time our dishes have evolved in their creative element. In close collaboration with my daughter Elena and the team, we have maximised the beauty of ingredients sourced from the region and have married them with other ingredients from other areas. This fusion has helped our family's approach evolve. Today, my cuisine has a distinct identity, basque, research based and contemporary.

September 2018

How would you describe your approach? It is important to have a balance in cooking and food. Food is multi-sensorial and I believe it should involve all the senses. Product is very important as well. In fact, every dish prepared in our kitchen must have a Basque soul.

Who would you consider to be the major gastronomical influence on your approach in the food industry? Ferran AdriĂ . He is a genius. with such an imaginative person. He is certainly one of the greatest chefs of all time.

JUAN MARI ARZAK

You recently defined yourself as an artisan scientist. Can you elaborate? Science is a key ingredient to which I regularly resort so as to evolve my cuisine. My focus is on investigating new things. Not getting stuck with certain triedand-true techniques but inventing new ways of seeing ingredients, new ways of elaborating them. However, my scientific experimentations always keep in mind our gastronomic culture.

You have played a key role in the organisation of conferences and events such as the Madrid Fusion, the Gastronomika. In what way do such initiatives help the food industry? Culinary events help the industry evolve. People from all over the world meet to share concepts and ideas. Indeed, such events are a source of information, a platform for dissemination of ideas and a medium to evolve.

Is there space for sustainability in the contemporary food industry? Sustainability is becoming a major item for the food industry around the world. In order to continue to feed the growing population, it is vital that the food industry ensures it is sustainable. Chefs play a key role to ensure a sustainable food industry by using resources properly and by working closely with key organisations, farmers and producers. A sustainable food industry is not a choice but a duty.

How does autumn fit into your kitchen? It is just another season for us.

What is next for Arzak? We are constantly evolving by seeking better ways how to further evolve our cuisine.

September 2018

Two

Brothers, One Journey Credits by Alan Saliba

Interview with

Stephen & James

Schiavone, Owners of Tartarun and Deck&Morsel

September 2018

he small and picturesque fishing village of Marsaxlokk is famous for its Sunday fish market where people flock early in the morning to pick and choose from the abundance of fresh fish proudly displayed by street hawkers. Yet Marsaxlokk is also popular for its fish restaurants situated across its imposing coast where luzzus, dgœajjes and other bigger fishing vessels lie. One of the major exponents of local fish gastronomy, Tartarun, lies at the very tip of the road that leads to the small beach of Marsaxlokk. The outlet is managed by the Schiavone brothers under the vigil eyes of their parents who incessantly help in the daily work of the restaurant. Its reputation did not leave me indifferent and quickly asked Stephen and James for an interview which they gladly accepted.

James and Stephen are identical twins, or nearly identical. A closer look at them will highlight several aesthetical differences; the major difference can be identified in their character. James is the gastronomic mind who you will rarely find on the outside of the restaurant. His preferred place is the kitchen, with his team where he can unleash his talent by preparing amazing dishes. On the hand, Stephen is the front man with his unique ability to explain in depth the story behind every dish available on their menu. Notwithstanding their differences, the two brothers are complimentary and bound by a strong bond which helped them strive through ups and downs in their gastronomic journey. Their story reminds me of an old Jewish legend about two brothers, Abram and Zimri, who owned a field and worked it together. They agreed to divide both the labour and the harvest equally. Both felt compassion for each other and quietly during the night, went to the fields, where they took a third of their harvest and placed it in the others pile. The next morning, the brothers went to the field and were both astonished that the piles still looked to be the same size. The following night both brothers slipped out of their houses to repeat their efforts of the previous night. But this time they discovered each other, and when they did, they wept and embraced.

We start our conversation over a gin tasting session. I am not really a gin connoisseur yet the taste of some Riesling-infused Saar river dry gin mixed with some good tonic and ice was really what I needed to start off the interview on a good note. After a quick intro, they invite me to a table for a lunch together. I set the tone by asking them how it all started. Stephen quickly points out that “The past decade was indeed an interesting journey for us with ups and downs any business will offer yet which has certainly helped us grow and better understand where we want to go.” Their parents were always involved in the catering industry and our uncles were directly involved in the fishing industry. Notwithstanding such a close connection with the world of food, their mother encouraged them not to follow on their footsteps. Based on such precept, they both thought of a different career path, away from the catering industry. “We went to Junior College and were both aspiring to become engineers.” However in the process, James dropped out with no other choice and ended up at ITS which were the best 4 years of his life. Stephen resisted and continued his studies at the University of Malta. “I actually wanted to follow a degree in Civil and Structural Engineering yet my friends opted for Mechanical Engineering. Immaturely, I decided to follow their route which I later learnt it would

September 2018

cost me dearly.” Indeed, he felt like a fish out of water in that course and after participating in a bar course, he eventually dropped out also to pursue a career in catering too. Meanwhile, James graduated from the Institute of Tourism Studies and out of all gastronomic routes, his father asked him to bake pizzas. Back in 2008 the family started a pizzeria. A year later they opened an eatery concept with fish as its main theme. I ask them how they opted for the name Tartarun to which they both reply that it all developed out of a casual chat with their father. “At one point during our discussion, dad mentioned the name ‘Tartarun’ which we really liked and that was it!” James explains that “Tartarun has been borrowed from a special Maltese fishing net” I ask them how they would define the food concept of the outlet to which they note that “Tartarun is not about fine dining, it is a fish restaurant. A good daily selection allows our guests to choose their fish and live lobsters, using traditional methods to their liking with condiments and classic sauces. We are proud of our fish snacks and ‘crudos’ which enhance local fish with elements and flavours from across the globe like our swordfish tataki with yuzu soy and pickled cucumber. A house favourite,

September 2018

which has been on the menu since we opened Tartarun is our carpaccio of prawns. Our staple dish is the catch of the day. It changes daily according to what our fishermen bring or what our father buys from the pixkerija.” Although the menu seeks to exalt the beauty our land and sea offer, their menu includes elements from across the globe such as chimichurri, shiitake and tapioca which blend so well with fish and other ingredients. Our discussion on their menu coincides with the serving of a lunch which includes a selection of swordfish `tataki`, their famous prawn carpaccio, brioche buns with fish beignets and coriander and a light beer battered `lampuka` with curry salt and mayo. Their dishes are simple in their layout yet complex in their taste. Every bite teases your taste buds with its unique flavours and ensures a sense of pleasant aftertaste. It is impressive how every plate creates a unique balance between all ingredients. However, I am mostly impressed with their linguine with bottarga, preserved orange and egg yolk. The taste is divine and the bottarga is just in the right place. The taste of such beauty is well amalgamated with a bottle of their house imported Inama wine. What could I expect more from an interview! After such pleasant tastes, I ask from where they find their passion. I got a surprising reaction and they both looked at each other with a grin “When we opened Wejla at Smartcity in 2014, we were passionate about fish that we thought Tartarun can open anywhere. Sadly though, after two good years the project started to suffer and we were experiencing signs of failure that at times was piling pressure on our family and our business in Marsaxlokk. We started asking logical questions like what did we do wrong? Did we lose our mojo or our passion?” James points out that “it was whilst watching an interview with Chef Thomas Keller where he was asked what he prefers between passion and desire that I got a proper explanation. He pointed out that people talk about passion as an emotion you need to have to be successful. Passion is overused and eventually dies out. And it needs something new to feed on. Whereas desire is what keeps you going. The desire to be consistent. The desire to gain and nurture reputation. The desire to challenge your knowledge to be better. Indeed, his logic is spot on!”

Stephen and James schiavone

A brother shares childhood memories and grown-up dreams. Author Unknown

I am curious to know what it entails to run such a business. Stephen notes that, “You definitely need to give it a lot of your time. With a family business set up such as ours, you have to work with limited resources and be a number of head of departments at a go. What really matters though is the final experience of a guest at the table. Our abilities and efforts are only assessed by the final product we deliver. Winston Churchill once noted that “success is not final, failure is not fatal: it is the courage to continue that counts.” Indeed, the two brothers continued their journey with a more mature mind and a stronger will to reach their goals. They certainly did not start from ground zero. Their achievement in turning Tartarun from a corner shop into one of the best fish restaurants on the island is definitely an important starting point. Over a span of a

few years two students in search of a clear career path have developed into two fully fledged restaurateurs. The two brothers still believe in Smart City. “We took failure as an opportunity for change. We overturned our business to a place of gathering. Deck&Morsel is a casual eatery that combines comfort and street food to create tantalizing bites all served in a blissful atmosphere perched and overlooking the Mediterranean Sea. Our understanding is that SmartCity is currently preparing for its next phase of development, whilst Shoreline and the institute of Tourism Studies are also expected to start their development next year. Furthermore, the recent public announcement that Malta Properties Company plc may be acquiring a shareholding in SmartCity also augers well for the project. All indications are that SmartCity will soon be an exciting place to work and live September 2018

in. In the meantime some 900 people already work at SmartCity and a short trip to SmartCity will provide an opportunity to walk along the Laguna in a safe and car free environment whilst enjoying the extensive sea views after an enjoyable meal at Deck&Morsel.” We shift our conversation on the main ingredient of Tartarun, fish. Stephen notes that “our major business challenge is the increasing value of fish. Widespread unsustainable fishing practices have left capture fisheries with a shrinking resource base which translates into a shrinking contribution to food security. I recently read that the Food and Agricultural Organisation estimates that 11 of the world’s 15 major fishing areas and 69 percent of the world’s major fish species are in decline and in need of urgent management. The method of catching a fish and selling it has drastically changed in Malta. Part-time fishermen have decreased, the fishing fleet has decreased, fish in the pixkerija has decreased substantially too.” James adds that “the problem of limited fish resources is not the result of actions taken by the local fishermen but rather the big heavy industrial fishing vessels. It is also the product of stringent EU policies that have forced local fishermen to specialise in their catch.” Stephen and James disagree on what ensures fish sustainability. James believes that it is better to catch the big fish so as to ensure the survival of the young ones. On the other hand though Stephen believes it is better to focus on the small ones because the big fish are those which lay the stronger eggs. Notwithstanding their different opinions they both agree that there is a dire need to heavily invest in education so people are more knowledgeable and appreciate the value of what they get. I ask them which fish do they consider to be underestimated to which they note to be hake, swordfish, tuna and bogue A long day with these brothers comes to an end yet before waving farewell to each other, I feel the need to ask them the traditional question on their future. James tells me that “James Asher once said that you can’t stop

September 2018

Stephen and James schiavone

the future, you canâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t rewind the past, the only way to learn the secret is to press play and that is what we are doing. We had our bright days yet also experienced failure. We do remember our days when we felt down yet we always woke up and stood up with our head high. Together and with the unconditional support of our parents, we always weathered the storm. We are working hard to build on the success of Tartarun and offer a new product at Deck&Morsel. We are also planning that in the near future weÂ tap the weddings and events market by offering

delicious receptions menus and a personal service. This was indeed a great interview with two amazing brothers. Their combination of drive, hunger for success and undisputed talent is a unique package which very few in the industry can boast about. I am sure that there is still more to come for them. They have learnt from their mistakes, they refused to give up on their dream and with a more mature mind, they are now looking ahead to consolidate their reputation as true ambassadors of the young generation of restauranteurs.

September 2018

White Prawn Crostina with roasted tomatoes, olive oil mayo & parmesan cheese sourdough or any type of bread you like roasted cherry tomatoes

INGREDIENTS Approx 7 local white prawns per crostina Olive oil mayo Herbs Parmesan cheese 1tsp Dijon mustard 6 Cherry tomatoes

METHOD  For the cherry tomatoes: Cut in half, season with salt then drizzle some olive oil. Mix well and lay them in a dish and slow roast in a preheated oven at 105˚C, for about 2 hours.  For the mayo: Place 2 yolks in a food processor with 1 teaspoon of Dijon

September 2018

mustard, turn on the food processor and start adding 130ml of olive oil. When the mayo becomes thick add some salt and about 1 tablespoon of lemon juice, and a teaspoon of white wine vinegar. Press the Pulse function to combine the mix well. Place the mayo in a piping bag.  For the prawns: Place the peeled prawns in a small bowl season with a bit of salt and olive oil.  To finish the dish: Toast the bread in a toaster or under the grill. Place the roasted tomatoes on the bread, then lay the prawns. Pipe the mayo in between the spaces, garnish with the soft herbs you can find (basil, chive, chervil, dill, mint). Finally finely grate parmesan cheese.

Stephen and James schiavone

INGREDIENTS 500 grms (whole) Calamari Half a Beetroot Half a Golden beetroot Half a Carrot 2 Shallots 30 grms Raisins soaked in water overnight Crème Fraiche Olive oil mayo

METHOD  For the slaw, get the beetroots carrots and shallots to a fine julienne or if easier grate them. Season with salt, mix in a teaspoon of creme fraiche and 2 tablespoon of mayo (prepared in the other recipe). Mix well and set aside.  For the calamari, clean and cut in half. Cut again the two halves and score the inside. Heat some oil in a pan. Lower the heat and carefully place the calamari with the scored side down, gently cook and observe the meat curling. With a small tong help the calamari to roll. Add a few sliced garlic and increase the heat to give colour to the calamari. When ready, remove from heat and place on a kitchen paper towel. Season with thyme and some lemon juice.  Place the calamari on a plate, add the slaw in between each calamari, garnish with the raisins.

Calamari & beetroot slaw September 2018

September 2018

A Healthy Diet Plus

healthy diet means that a person eats small amounts of a variety of food. This means that although we know that fruit and vegetables are healthy and that we know that they

are important components of our diet, it is also important that we include also other types of food. According to the latest research wholemeal bread, pasta, rice and flour are much healthier from the equivalent food that is not wholemeal, because they have much less fibre.

The oil and fats that we find in seeds, legumes and other plants are very healthy because they contain fats that deposit in our joints. As part of a healthy diet it is crucial that we choose good meats and proteins such as fish, poultry, rabbit and other meat that contains less fats. Diary products are also very important above all to provide calcium to strengthen our bones. This is especially important in children and elderly persons.

Finally red meat and butter are also important in small amounts. These fats provide a layer of fat under our skin and around our organs to protect them and insulate them from the cold weather. In conclusion, it is very important to eat different amounts of all kinds of food, as recommended by the appropriate professionals. Add a moderate amount of exercise and with a healthy lifestyle that will safeguard your health. September 2018

The

Craft of smoking, Salting Curing

Interview with

Roderick

Vella

ork is the most widely eaten meat in the world, accounting for about 38% of meat production worldwide. Its consumption is nothing less in Malta. It is indeed a staple of local diet with various traces of pork footprint in products such as zalzett Malti (Maltese sausage), mazzita (black pudding) and xikel tal-majjal (Shank). Pork was also a key component of local traditional dishes including kawlata and majjal il-forn. This is not to mention

September 2018

Credits by Alan Saliba the consumption of charcuterie products. Notwithstanding the constant growth in pork popularity, in recent years we noted a further interest in the product with several young chefs experimenting with different cuts, some of which even representing local pork dishes. Some have also crossed the line experimenting with smoking, curing and salting. One major exponent of this new generation is Chef Roderick Vella who has in time developed several interesting products with local pork.

ou can never put too much pork in your mouth as far as I’m concerned.

Lewis Black

His fame in local food circles was not to be ignored and I asked to meet so as to discover more his work and underlying passion for pork. We met up at the new Il-Pirata outlet in Mellieœa where he was busy working in the new kitchen to help the team in its early steps. Behind that rough image dressed in traditional black attire lies such a colourful mind with so delicate hands with which he has taken local pork to an unprecedented level. Pork has been revolutionised presenting it in concepts many would consider pure blasphemy such as coppa and sorpressa. I look at his arms and note the tattoo of a pig which inevitably leads me to ask him what is so attractive in pork. With glowing eyes, he notes that “it is such a versatile product which can be used in its entirety. It fascinates me the idea that you can literally use a pig from nose to tail. It is also very accessible. Price and quality are good and easy to

work on it. It also offers you the unique opportunity to experiment with it.” He also adds that, “travelling abroad offered me the possibility to learn more about the product and helped me appreciate more its richness. Abroad there is a real sense of veneration towards pork. It is a culture or better a cult.” I ask Roderick whether this appreciation of pork is reflected in the local food industry to which he notes with regret that “notwithstanding its popularity in local diet, there is still ignorance on the product and its use. Our current dishes are still very restricted in pork usage and do not represent the true value of such a product. Ironically, our ancestors used to use pork in a proper manner. They used to use various cuts and parts including trotter, cheeks, tongue and nose which were used to exalt the taste of local dishes including September 2018

RODERICK VELLA

Abroad there is a real sense of veneration towards pork. It is a culture or better a cult.

September 2018

I also ask him what are the major challenges in the pork industry to which he notes that there are a few among which the issue related to waste. “Various parts of the pig such as blood and lungs are thrown away.” He adds that “the industry can do much more. The Kooperativa tal-Majjali should open its doors to professionals in the food industry to listen to their needs. The industry should emulate the approach adopted by specific entities in other industries such as the milk sector which has led to a significant improvement in the quality and image of local dairy products. The industry should also keep its eyes open into ways available to help make the sector more sustainable.”

September 2018

Low in saturated fat

I ask Roderick what makes beef more popular than pork in local eateries. He remarks that “beef has more appeal. It is marketed as a dining experience. Pork is still associated to home food. This perception is also due to our food culture and its usage in specific dishes.” He also notes that “pork is also still tied to religious restrictions and health issues. Pork is known to carry some diseases such as pork tapeworm and trichinosis and pigbel, thus uncooked or undercooked pork can be dangerous to consume, although raw pork is commonly eaten in parts of Europe.”

No artificial colours or preservatives

kawlata.” He adds that in time it seems our dietary habits have been restricted to very specific cuts which inevitably has affected our culinary traditions which often entail a slow cooking process.” I ask him why? To which he replies that “the reasons behind such drop in usage are manifold. It is due to our changing cooking habits. It is also due to stringent regulations by the European Union.” He however points out that “in recent years, we have noted a reverse trend where various chefs and food enthusiasts are re-proposing old recipes which include specific cuts yet with a modern twist. The market has positively received such products which have inevitably encouraged chefs to experiment further. It is all in the way we re-evaluate our product and in our ability to serve it in different ways which ultimately make the difference in the consumers’ appetite for such elements.”

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com.mt

RODERICK VELLA

Our discussion shifts on the growing interest on the local front in artisan charcuterie. Roderick points out that he doesn’t dispute the enduring quality of European charcuterie. “We are all well aware that there are exceptional European hams that have taken 250 years to develop, there’s nothing else like them. Yet it is also true that our high quality pork offers us the possibility to have our share in such a niche industry. We have the potential to make some good charcuterie because our pork is of such a high level. I’m convinced of that.” He adds that “the new generation is much more aware of its abilities and the quality of its raw material which has inevitably led to several individuals in the food industry experimenting with such products.” I ask him what attracted him to artisan charcuterie. He points that “I could not accept the fact that our abundance of pork is only limited for cooking. I had the opportunity to go abroad and learn more about the beauty of smoking, curing and salting. I watched artisans carefully prepare amazing salamis, hams and sorpressa. I was impressed how such an industry is part of their family and their life. Some even sleep with salamis around them! I also read about such craft and decided to try my luck. It was not easy and had a couple of disappointments yet never gave up and must

September 2018

say I also had my share of satisfactions.” I ask Roderick what are the major challenges for such a niche sector which he notes that “this is a relatively new area for us and thus we are still in the learning process. Our climatic conditions are also a major challenge. Above all, we face a major issue with weight loss. Whilst a carcass abroad suffers a loss of approximately 30 percent, in Malta a carcass has a loss of approximately 35 to 40 percent which inevitably impacts on the size of the final product. Notwithstanding the challenges, the quality and taste are very good.” He adds that “thankfully I work closely with a very good supplier.” I ask him what the major products he feels proud of are? Roderick notes that there are a few among which are his Coppa, Sopressata di Testa and Guanciale. They are my babies.” He insists to point out that his Sorpressata di Testa is an old recipe taught to him by an old butcher in Toscana. The clock behind Roderick limits me to only a final question which I dedicate to his future plans. He chuckingly notes that he hopes for more time with his family. “I also hope to develop further my passion for artisan charcuterie and to contribute for its growth in Malta.”

September 2018

Pork Anatomy

Credits by Alan Saliba

Interview with

Rafel

Sammut, Owner - The Pulled Meat Company

September 2018

n his book The Doors of Perception, the English writer, novelist and philosopher Aldous Huxley noted that, "There are things known and there are things unknown, and in between are the doors of perception." Indeed our perception determines our impact with any matter we come across. What some may perceive a fine cut of pork loin as another piece in the rack, others look at it as a true measure of a pig's deliciousness. Chef Rafel Sammut definitely falls within this second category of people. His interest and passion for pork is deep and lies embedded in his ever growing project, The Pulled Meat Company. Notwithstanding a relatively young age, Rafel's food concept has grown significantly and has earned him a reputation as one of the best ambassadors of local pork excellence.

I met Rafel at his outlet in Gzira where he was busy preparing for a private function. With a smile, he invites me to a table where we quickly set the tone on his food journey and above all his passion for pork. Rafel, is bold, smart, with a clean beard and a strong tone that spells out his determination to reach his set goals. Like many other chefs he has his share of ink. Each piece tells something about his character or key moments in his life. Whilst attentively observing him and the outlet, I am invited to taste a selection of cured ham and salami prepared for me together with some fresh bread with a generous dose of olive oil. He attentively observes my reaction to which I feel a sigh of relief the moment I utter the word "delicious!" I ask what brought him close to the world of pork to which he notes that it was out of sheer coincidence or better out of necessity. "It was Christmas time and my brother and me, Andrea, were in need of some cash for our festive season endeavours. As a

September 2018

desperate measure, we decided to participate in the Tigne Christmas village with a pop up point of sale offering pulled pork. The feedback was fantastic and we made a good buck. That event made us think. Pork was not a one off experience but could develop into something more long term." He adds that "things started to develop faster than expected and we also came across an outlet ideal for our business venture. The name, The Pulled Meat Company which was kept safely in store for some time had finally found a home at the heart of Valletta." We shift our conversation on his views on pork. I ask him whether he defines pork in a chop or a loin to which he reacts by commenting that “they are fine cuts" using the tone of voice with which an orthodox novelist might praise Stephen King. Yet he notes that "those conventional cuts aren’t the true measure of a pig’s deliciousness. With a superlative product to work with, you don’t have to cook something three times to get delicious results. Pork is also about belly, trotters, cheeks and neck. These cuts often require more work. Despite the high fat content, they’re generally tougher, and they need to be subdued via slow cooking over long periods of time. In some cases, they also require multiple cooking methods, which give you the opportunity to show off your virtuosity and craftsmanship." We discuss the current popularity pork is experiencing on the local and international plane. "We are spoilt for choice. Young talents are willing to bring back to the fore old recipes to which they are offering a modern twist. The new generation of chefs is also heavily investing in travel to expose themselves to new food cultures and habits. Chefs are also investing more time in reading which helps them challenge their own style and food perspective. Over the next years this new generation is now called to educate the market on the proper use of pork.” I ask him a million dollar question on whether we do really know and appreciate our pork. In an irritated tone he notes that "we do not know our pork and to

September 2018

Rafel sammut

a certain extent neither the farmer does." He quickly clarifies that local pork has a lot to be praised for, yet there are certain characteristics which need to be rectified." Rafel adds that the current breed is not ideal to move forward with. â&#x20AC;&#x153;We need to work on its weaknesses and ensure the development of a better breed in the future." He adds that there is also a mindset issue. "There are a number of misconceptions on fat. The local breed is ideal for the lean meat market. The concepts we are working on call for a breed which has a better fat distribution across its body."

educate the market."

Notwithstanding the challenges, Rafel feels that every cloud has a silver lining. "There is a will from several young vets and farmers to actively work towards the development of the current breed. This has encouraged us to launch a farm to the fork project so as to ensure a better standard of pork. The project is still in its infancy yet we are confident that our early steps have laid a solid basis for us to ensure its long term success." With a smile, he notes that, "we already made some positive inroads. Key events such L-Imnarja are serving as an excellent platform to

The time has come for us to call it a day and thus ask him for a word of advice for prospective chefs. "If you do not enter the catering industry unaware of the sacrifices it entails, your time in this industry will be short-lived. This is an industry which calls for a lot of discipline. It requires time, patience and perseverance. It also requires a lot of attention to detail. Food has to be your lifestyle." On a personal note he adds that in the coming years he hopes to spend less time in the kitchen and more close to the farmers, the fishmongers and to the raw materials.

I curiously ask him which is his favourite cut. He promptly notes that he loves Pork Tomahawks. "They are simply divine! We sous vide the cut for twelve to fourteen hours thanks to which we break down the belly without overcooking the ribeye. It is a really nice piece of meat. It is a very interesting cut!" I also ask him if there is any cut he considers to be underestimated to which he notes that it is definitely the pork flank which has now developed into our signature cut.

September 2018

Ingredients:

Pea and PumpkinGrilled Risotto King Prawns, Parmesan Crackling & Mascarpone

Rice:

2 Cups arborio rice 400ml Light fish stock 1 Finely diced onion 1 Crushed clove garlic 100gr Crushed peas Sprig fresh thyme 50grs Diced pumpkin 100ml Basil pesto Seasoning

Method:  In a heavy-bottomed pan lightly fry onions and garlic in a touch of olive oil.  Add rice and stir until grains turn glossy white.  Add half of the fish stock and reduce heat to a low simmer until the stock is absorbed.  Add in the crushed peas and basil pesto.  Thoroughly mix through, and stir in the diced pumpkin.  Add remaining fish stock and continue to simmer for a further 12 to 15 minutes on very low heat until all liquid is absorbed.  Rice should be opaque and slightly over al dente.  Season accordingly.

Parmesan Crackling:  Simply grate (larger grate) fresh Parmesan cheese or Grana Padano and place on grease proof paper or foil lined sheet.  Bake until cheese melts and turn golden brown.  Serve with Grilled King Prawns and Citrus Mascarpone Cheese.

September 2018

ROBERT CASSAR

Risotto with Calamari

Ingredients 200g risotto 1 shallot onion 400ml fish stock Pinch of saffron 100ml white wine 3 fresh local calamari Chives

Method ď Ž Chop the onion, add some oil and cook the onion in oil until it softens. Add the rice, fish stock and white wine and simmer on low heat. Add the local calamari, saffron and chives and cook on low heat, stirring occasionally. 100

September 2018

Pan-seared Saddle of Rabbit on Rucola Pesto

Mediterranean Couscous and Beetroot

Ingredients: Couscous 2 cups Couscous 400 ml Hot vegetable stock 100 grams Finely diced sundried tomato 50 grams Fresh parsley 1 Diced green pepper 30 grams Diced green olives Diced fresh tomato Olive oil Â˝ Lemon juice

GREAT DANE

Seasoning Method: Pastizzeria Galea ilhom għal dawn l-aħħar 23 sena fis-suq.

 Place couscous in a bowl, add olive oil and the hot vegetable stock.  Allow 5 minutes to soften and swell.  Add in the remaining ingredients, fluff couscous with a fork and set aside.

Issibu varjetà ta’ prodotti: Ravjul, Pastizzi, Qassatat, Torti, Tortellini, Għaġina (puff, short, sweet u pizza) kollox magħmul bi prodotti Maltin. Kollox jinħadem skond riċetti tradizzjonali maltin f’ambjent professjonali, modern u nadif skond l-aqwa standards fis-settur talikel fl-Ewropa.

Rucola Pesto Ingredients:

Novita ġdida f’dan is-settur. Il-prodotti huma ċertifikati minn Nutristionist bħala REDUCED FAT u CHOLESTEROL FREE, jappellaw lil dawk kollha li qegħdin isegwu xi dieta jew ifitxxu ikel li ma jagħmilx ħsara li s-saħħa.

200 grams Rucola leaves 100ml Olive oil 60 grams Pine kernels 1 cup Grated parmesan Cracked pepper

Method:  Combine all ingredients in a food processor and blend until smooth

For Plating:  Lightly pan-sear rabbit saddles for 3-4 minutes until golden brown.  Serve with rucola, pesto and couscous.  Garnish with sliced beetroot and orange rind. September 2018

A19a, Industrial Estate, Marsa MRS3000 tel: 2180 2203 101

The

Life of a Hero A hero is someone who has given his or her life to something bigger than oneself.Â Joseph Campbell Credits by Family Preca

tribute to

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Charles Preca, Chef Patron at Tal-Familja Restaurant

t is amazing how every child irrespective of whether poor or rich, black or white, male or female look up to some hero they fondly long to follow on its footsteps. For many, their hero is no Superman, Captain Marvel or Spiderman but rather their very own father with whom they share every single day. After all what is a hero? It is the person who smiles at you on an

said about him. Not a single negative comment but words of praise for his kind heart and his unconditional love for his family. Indeed, his wife, his five daughters and his parents were at the centre of his colourful life. They were his inspiration, his happiness and above all the purpose for which he dedicated his energy even in his very last days.

off day. It is the war veteran fighting for freedom and equality for all. As well, it's your friend, parent, or mentor sacrificing for your happiness. The everyday hero is within every single human being on this planet, and is expressed by simple, ordinary actions. Heroes do simple acts; of kindness, courage and love.

It is probably his very humble and sociable approach which struck a chord with every person he came across. He never looked down at anyone. In every action, he kept in mind his humble roots from where his food journey took off. His mother, who I had the pleasure to meet, points out that Charles “was born in a pot and died in a pot.” Indeed, his life was all about food. His father who is affectionately known as ‘Il-boss’ points out that “my son always dreamt to have a restaurant but we could not afford it. This did not in any way dishearten him and "he was adamant to reach his goal no matter what it takes." It would be fair to state that he was never too keen about formal training yet with his dream in mind, he decided to learn the fundamentals to work in the food industry at the catering school in Paola. Interestingly, his

It is by no coincidence that the death of Charles Preca left many who knew him well or just a little bit, speechless and incredulous. I will certainly not judge a person’s life from the number of persons attending a funeral. It would certainly be a superficial way to measure one’s respect. Nevertheless, I am still impressed with every single face of all those who flocked to the St. Francis of Assisi Church in Valletta to pay a last tribute to Charles. I also fondly remember every word they

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father notes that “he initially studied to become a barman yet in the process felt the urge to work in the kitchen which led him to shift his studies towards that direction.” His debut in the food industry was at a very young age at Le Roy. It was there under the vigil eyes of an Austrian chef that he learnt the tricks of the trade. It was there where he felt the desire to learn more and to make a name in this cutthroat industry. Following his stint there, he moved to another restaurant, Papagall Restaurant. His culinary skills were further polished during his time at La Vallette Band Club. The place offered him a taste of something different; an eatery outlet with a strong social aspect. It was a special time on a personal level. It was during that time when he met the person who had to become the love of his life. The breakthrough in his gastronomic journey came at the age of twenty-three when a call for the management of the King’s Own Bar was published. With the support of his family “our bid was successfully accepted” says his father. The place quickly developed into a gastronomic attraction and was popular both

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with locals and foreigners. King’s Own was major step in his career. “He now had no cushion to rely on. He could only bank on his own abilities and his family” says his mother. His time at King’s Own was characterised by a number of ups yet also some downs. However, like every good captain, he always weathered every storm. His mother fondly recollects his initial fears to cook in a correct manner roast chicken, those instances when she used to rectify the taste of his tomato sauce with a pinch of sugar and his fear to cook rabbit for sixty persons. His wife, Stella points out that the Kings Own was not just an eatery outlet and a social hub but also a second home. “It was there where he spent most of his time. It was there where the children met their father during work days and weekends. The place gradually developed into a family gathering.” In 1997 Charles was called to handle another major stepping stone in his culinary path; the opening of Tal-Familja Restaurant. Notwithstanding the initial challenges, Tal-Familja gradually developed into a

CHARLES PRECA

His character was an explosion of colours which would give life to every place he stepped in. staple of local culinary excellence. It was here that his reputation reached all corners of the island. It is at TalFamilja where I fell in love with his food. His passion and commitment towards food were exceptional and played a fundamental role in the career path his children took, to the exception Daniela who was never

too fond about kitchens. But let’s be honest, we are not all meant to be chefs. During his culinary journey, he earned a reputation for several dishes he is to date famous for. His father fondly explains in great detail his son’s lamb shanks with carrots, tomatoes, garlic and the best wine his cellar could offer. His children also fondly refer to his aljotta which he used to prepare in large quantities. A very simple recipe with that pinch of love which made it stand out of the crowd. He was fully committed to his work which often meant he had to sacrifice numerous parents’ days, parties and weddings. However, he never complained. He knew it was part of the package he had committed to. Notwithstanding his inability to honour specific family commitments he still heavily contributed to a proper upbringing of his five daughters. His efforts though have been well rewarded with the recent Hall of Fame; WRMC 2018 Lifetime Achievement Award and his daughters’ achievements over the past years.

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CHARLES PRECA There is a consensus among all those who came across Charles that he was a gentleman with such a calm and charismatic character. His character was an explosion of colours which would give life to every place he stepped in. Every room was a social gathering and an opportunity to enjoy some quality time with his friends and loved ones. It is hard to tell who were his friends as every place he happened to be in was an opportunity to make new acquaintances. Stella recollects those special moments when they used to enjoy singing with bottles used as microphone. “Those were unforgettable moments hard to digest that we will never experience again.” Monday was a sacred day which no storm or heatwave would ever stop the Preca family to meet and enjoy each other’s company. The children fondly note that “there was a sense of waiting for his call to meet. We used to meet at around 12.30. The most important thing in such gatherings was the presence of nanna and nannu. We used to dine at the best restaurants where he fondly appreciated and learnt from the work of others. The term ‘rivalry’ did not exist in his vocabulary. He always felt the industry had to be united rather than divided. Our time together was not only about food. It was about the simple things we used to share together. Those moments will never fade away. He used to visit other restaurants and hotels to discover

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new recipes.” Charles was a perfectionist. Detail was a key factor in his life whether it was a table, his kitchen or a daily dish he would prepare. Travel was his source of inspiration. Whilst he remained loyal to his family’s food traditions, he constantly sought to evolve it with new techniques and ingredients he came across during his regular trips around the world. He was a music enthusiast and a great artist. “His portraits were amazing and had a natural flair for photography. Indeed his photographic lens had a natural eye for village characters such as Ÿeÿa l-Monkija. He was also very forward looking. He never left an opportunity pass by without evaluating the opportunity it could offer.” His wife notes that “he had that unique ability to turn a bare room into an amazing business concept.” Indeed, Charles is dearly missed by all. Cassandra Clare once noted that “there are memories that time does not erase... Forever does not make loss forgettable, only bearable.” The feeling of him not being around is still unbearable for many especially his loved ones. However, his legacy is so strong and there to last forever. Charles was a hero to his children and for all those vying a career in the food industry.

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Credits by Alan Saliba

When did Coffeebreak first open its doors? Coffee Brake had been operating as a coffeeshop for a while by my parents. As a kid I used to help or hinder my parents at the shop, depending on the point of view. It was during 2010 that I took over the management of the shop and by mid 2011 I knew exactly how I was going to transform these premises into a bistro-cafe by the name Coffee Break. My inspirations came from the fact that these premises are located near the main bus terminus in Victoria Gozo, therefore I wanted something clean, attractive, simple but eyecatching with fast service to cope with the demanding clients that visit Victoria with limited time. The idea was not only to look good but to perform efficiently.

What led you, or inspired you, to open a bistro-cafe in Rabat? What background did you have in this industry, prior to opening Coffee Break?

Cup

Coffee

Interview with

Joseph Tabone, Chef Patron at Coffee Break, Rabat, Gozo

e all live a hectic life and we all deserve some time to stop for a coffee or two. For all those driving through the busy streets of Victoria, Gozo there is no other place for a short break other than Coffee Break where Chef Patron teases his clients with amazing salt and sweet bites. Whilst in Gozo, we met Chef Tabone who shared with us his first steps in the food industry, his style and what makes Coffee Break stand out of the busy crowd.

The inspiration to open a bistro-cafe type of shop in Rabat came during the time I took over the shop from my parents. While analyzing and studying the ambient, the type of clientele passing by, their spending power and most importantly their time factor, a clientele on the move. Time is of essence but at the same time at lunch time people want to eat even when they are touring. Therefore I assumed that a classic table and cloth restaurant will not work in this environment and opted for the bistro-cafe. Here I can offer my clientele the quality of food that they will expect from a classic restaurant at good value prices and within their time frame. As for background on the said industry, as I already mentioned, my parents had a coffee shop, I also did a part-time job washing up in a restaraunt in Xlendi which incidently I must give my humble credit to the Chef Carlos Fiat 500 who inspired to explore within myself, my hidden culinery skills and how one can enjoy and get satisfaction from a six hour shift of heat and sweat in a kitchen. This for me is what catering is all about. I explored and exploited the whole project of Coffee Brake and I'm still learning today.

What type of food and beverages does your establishment serve? What in your opinion, is your target demographic? I always take pride in what I serve my clients, even in beverages, we don't offer any thing that other shops don't have, but I insist in quality and good value.Take coffee for September 2018

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instance, we serve Lavazza coffee with balanced measure to serve a good espresso and cappucino etc. As for the wine list it is simple and uncomplicated to reflect the ambience. Demgraphically speaking, we mainly rely on passing trade, although we also established a healthy local clientele that frequent the Premises all year round. Therefore we don't target anybody as such but they target us instead.

What is the most important thing you keep in mind when serving your customers? Good value for money, quality and good service. Restauranteurs can talk and elaborate all day on this subject but for me that's what matters.

What specialities do you offer? I choose my specialities, referring to dishes, according to the season. I do my utmost to introduce local dishes with local ingredients. It is not easy if one wants to mantain quality and consistencey.

To all those who have never been to Coffee Break till now, what would you suggest? If ones visiting in the morning our English breakfast is very good. We bake fresh croissants and our coffees and freshly squeezed fruit juices are very popular. As for lunch and 110

September 2018

dinner the house specialities are a must to look at. Don't quote me wrong but my reputation is based on the whole menu and the specialities.

Your coffee designs are also a thing to behold: What creatively inspires you to produce these designs? Travelling abroad, going through airports, train stations, bus terminals and noting the catering establishments in these environments, which are set up to serve fast quality food and beverages in style and time. That's what I tried to create.

In your opinion, how important it is for an establishment to not only serve food or drink, but to give your clients a wholesome experience? This is the million dollor question. Let's be realistic, everybody can cook and be creative with food and if a restauranteur lacks the skill he can employ someone who has these skills. Waiters can serve, some better and faster than others. These are all common elements in catering. In my opinion one thing is very important that will bring the whole team together in a restaurant. It is the atmosphere, the whole ambient is creating. Its like a culinary magnetic field, if one fails to create such field the premises will never take off.

Byron saliba

Yuzu'Me Petit Gateaux - Tart Biscuit Dough – Raspberry Confit – Yuzu Cream Pie – Milk Chocolate & Sesame Crunch – Mandarin Cream – Milk Chocolate Glaze

Mandarin Cremeaux

Biscuit Dough 250g Flour 175g Butter 95g Icing sugar 30g Ground almonds 1 Egg 1g Vanilla Lemon zest Orange zest

 Place the butter in a mixer and blend for 1 minute. Add the flour, icing sugar, salt and ground almonds and blend. Add the eggs and mix. Open the dough between two papers and set in the refrigerator for 25minutes to rest. Open the dough between two papers (3mm thick) and refrigerate . When cool, cut and place it on an air mat. Freeze and Cook (160˚C) for 10-15minutes until golden.

250ml Mandarin purèe 100g Sugar 200g Eggs 3 Gelatine leaves 150g Butter

 In a pot heat up the puree and sugar. In a seperate bowl pour the eggs and whisk them very well. Ensure the purèe is luke warm and temper the eggs by adding some of the liquids to the eggs. Mix and add everything to the pot. Stir and cook up to 81˚C. Set aside, add the gelatine when it is room temperature. Blend the butter for a silky texture. Fill the mould and refrigerate.

Milk Chocolate Shiny Glaze

Yuzu Cream Pie

195ml Water 300g Sugar 300g Glucose 215g Condenesed milk 27g Gelatine leaves 325g Milk chocolate 100g Cold glaze / nappage Copper metallic food soluable colour

 In a bowl mix the condenesed milk and yolks and whisk. Add the yuzu and water and mix very well. Fill the tart shell and cook (140˚C) for 5 to 8 minutes.

 Soak the gelatine in cold water. Bring water, sugar and glucose to boil at 103˚C. Pour the condenesed milk and the soaked gelatine. Pour the mixture over the chocolate, add the colouring and blend everything by using a hand mixer and pass trough a strainer. Refrigerate overnight. Before applying heat up the glaze and glaze at 28˚C to 31˚C.  Assemble everthing together.

400g Condenesed milk 2 Yolks 80g Yuzu purèe 12ml Water

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September 2018 112 /aperolspritz.mlt

Marketed and distributed by Farsons Beverage Imports Co. Ltd. The Brewery, Mdina Road, Mriehel, BKR3000. For trade enquiries please call 2381 4400

Celebrating summer in style with

Aperol Spritz

f you think you’ve seen more Aperol Spritzes this year, you’re not wrong. And if you’ve been drinking those sparkling orange drinks in pretty stemmed glasses, you’re likely to notice more people joining you in this great aperitivo vibe.

round, the event was setup in Pjazza Regina, and saw the participation of local legend George Curmi, better known as il-Pusé who together with illusionist Daniel Attard and the talented artist Alisa Pavia set the scene for a truly memorable night for all those present.

Maybe it’s the effect of the blistering heat, or perhaps it could be that this summer was a busy one for Aperol Spritz with events happening all over Malta to introduce this super Instagrammable, fizzy aperitif everywhere from music festivals to happy hours nationwide.

Described as ‘violently refreshing’ and the drink of summer 2018 by the New York Times, it was only a matter of time before that electric-orange concoction of Aperol, prosecco, and club soda that’s swirling in bars, pool parties, and clubs found itself in Malta’s entertainment mecca, specifically Hugo’s Lounge. The inner lighthearted spirit of Aperol Spritz, was a perfect paring with the stylish, yet relaxed atmosphere characterised at Hugo’s Lounge encouraging people to spontaneously gather together and spark nothing but good vibes.

Kicking off the Aperol Spritz summer 2018 in grand style was the arrival of the Aperol Spritz Amphibious at Gœadira Bay in Mellieœa. This unexpected sight was greeted with great enthusiasm by the unsuspecting beachgoers who saw this unique orange coloured Amphibious sail into the bay, drive on to the beach, and transform itself into an Aperol Spritz bar and DJ stand. Vibe FM’s own Nate, Frank & Rossi were also on hand to entertain the crowd with music and fun beach games. A few weeks later, Valletta provided the stunning backdrop for Aperol Spritz in the City, an event which brought relaxed sophistication and fun to Malta’s Capital City. Covering three separate areas in Valletta, at the site of the Royal Opera House, St John’s Square, and Republic Square, Aperol Spritz in the City gave guests a variety of experiences, touching classic Italian cinema, art, music, and entertainment. September also saw some late summer action with Valletta coloured in orange, music and style. This time

The original “Spritz” recipe – also commonly known as the “Spritz Veneziano” – features Aperol as its key ingredient and was added to the International Bartenders Association’s Official Drink list in 2011. Its recipe is easy as 3-2-1 – consisting of 3 parts Prosecco, 2 parts Aperol, and 1 splash club soda in a balloon glass over ice – topped off with a slice of orange. It’s the perfect low-proof cocktail that can be enjoyed during brunch, as a lighter option for an after-work get-together, or as a true Italian aperitif before dinner. Keep your oranges and eyes peeled for the next Aperol Spritz event. Aperol Spritz is marketed and distributed in Malta by Farsons Beverage Imports Company Limited. September 2018

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The Art of Inovation Interview with

Matthew

Schembri, Credits by Matthew Schembri

idden among the noisy outlets, high-rise buildings and busy streets of Buæibba lies a bistro concept which is attracting the interest of food enthusiasts from all across the island. Lovage Bistro is a relatively new eatery managed by one of Malta’s leading young generation of chefs, Matthew Schembri. The interest Matthew’s work is generating on the market made it an inevitable choice for me to meet and discover his talent.

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I was lucky to find a parking slot just a few meters away from the restaurant and once I made sure to have a pen and paper handy, I headed straight in to meet Matthew. Dressed up in full uniform and with his signature smile, Matthew invited me to one of his main tables. Whilst Matthew prepared a much needed good espresso, I decided to walk around the outlet to get a better feel of its ambience. The place has a strong modern touch present in the decor, the cutlery and the tables yet the place still has a particular homely feeling. The detail in every corner of the restaurant is impressive starting with the plates and cups up to the logo itself. With his Robert De Niro look and tone, he introduces himself and his connection with the world of food. Matthew notes that “from a very young age, I was attracted to food. My family was always involved in the catering industry which made it a natural choice for me to pursue a career in this industry.” He notes that “I started off as a barman

such an inspirational figure in my food career. I am also grateful for the unconditional support received from Joseph Tabone, CEO of Halmann Vella who has recently passed away. Joe played a fundamental role in the opening of Lovage. He believed in me, in the place and above all in my concept.” I promptly ask him about the name to which he notes that “lovage is such an amazing herb with flavourful, dark green leaves. Its leaves and seeds offer a unique twist to stews, soups, salads, pickles, and more. It is an ever present herb in my kitchen.” I ask him about his style to which he notes that “I hate being fit into strait jackets.” Notwithstanding his academic route Matthew notes that he is not too keen to stick to specific recipes. “I always saw food as a way to think out of the box and an opportunity to turn the conventional into unconventional. Recipes where never a source of motivation to me; I am more at ease in the kitchen experimenting with ingredients.” I ask him if he is a salt or sweet chef to which he replies without hesitation to be salt.

at a very young age and eventually specialised in catering at the Institute of Tourism Studies. I started off my professional footprint at the Suncrest focussing on pastry following which I worked at Radisson.” I ask him what encouraged him to open Lovage Bistro to which he replies that “I am a very ambitious person and from a very young age had set my goals to have my own restaurant. Thanks to my family’s support, I now have a place where I can put my food concepts into practice. I am thankful for my late father who was

Indeed his menu is fresh, innovative and may raise some eyebrows to those trying his dishes for the first time. His menu is very condensed with a selection of eight starters and seven main courses which change according to the seasons. One of his most daring items on his menu is his mushroom coffee. I ask amazed how such two extreme worlds can coexist in the same plate. Matthew notes that “indeed they do. The recipe developed by pure coincidence yet in some way fit perfectly together.” His menu includes other interesting dishes such as his champagne prawns and his sheep cheese. He notes that both items are staples of his menu. He also stresses that his sheep cheese is sourced from the best suppliers in Gozo covered in cornflakes and baked rather than fried. His menu includes other mind blowing items including his seabass cooked with pancetta, saffron and a crushed peppercorn sauce. The same goes for his Moroccan inspired duck breast. September 2018

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2018 Ltd 116 Attard September & Co. Food

Tel: 21 237555 facebook.com/attardcofood

Matthew schembri

I ask Matthew to describe his menu. He notes that “the essence of my work is based on local produce which is cooked and presented in a simple manner so as to give due merit to the natural flavours of every component present in my plates. I source my products from a very close circle of reliable suppliers who offer me the possibility to work with genuine local fresh produce. Nevertheless the presence of imported products is a must in view of the limited availability of specific ingredients.” He adds that “whilst I am comfortable to work with any type of fish available, I am still hesitant when it comes to experimenting with specific local meat cuts. Pork is a safe bet; the quality is very high yet beef is still an area subject to inconsistency. Ultimately though, it all depends on the reliability of the source.” He explains that his selection of food is sourced from a very small circle of suppliers who share his same vision and who focus on local products.

We also touch on the issue of sustainability where he notes that “we eat too much of the types of food that have a high burden on the environment. There should be more close collaboration between research, restaurants, nutritionists and consumers to develop new interpretations of our diet that is tasty, costeffective, healthy and environmentally responsible. I strongly believe this is the only way forward for effective sustainability.” It is time for me to conclude my interview yet before calling it a day, I felt the need to ask him a final question regarding his future plans. “A healthy growth for the outlet is my priority. Notwithstanding the relatively young age of the outlet, we are gradually increasing in numbers which encourages me to work harder. The rest is hard to predict.” As Buddha once said, “Do not dwell in the past, do not dream of the future, concentrate the mind on the present moment.” September 2018

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sweet Legacy

here is something which directly connects Œamrun with Elia. They are both tied by a common denominator which makes them inseparable and part of each other’s history. Elia is more than just a name; it is one of the most longstanding companies in the local pastry and catering industry, and above all it tells a story of a successful family run business. Elia also has a social element. Its cafeteria just opposite the parish church dedicated to St. Gaetan is a meeting point where old and new generations meet to share their daily matters with family and friends over a coffee and a meat pie. On a personal note, Elia has a special

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Credit by Kuluri

Interview with

Pawlu

Borg Bonaci, Director at Elia Caterers place in my heart; it has a bit of my present and a lot of my past. It reminds me of my Sunday visits to my grandmother in Villambrosa Street, a few doors away from the Elia Factory. It also reminds me of our Saturday visits to Elia cafeteria after the six o’clock mass. Notwithstanding the change in Œamrun’s physiognomy, Elia has remained unfazed and ingrained in the village’s societal element thanks to its solid foundations back in October 1953 when the late Elia Borg Bonaci and his wife Rita opened a confectionery and coffee shop in the main street of Œamrun with a small bakery in the basement floor.

Since then, the family went a long way gradually earning a reputation for its impeccable quality standards which became a hallmark for its products and services, in addition to its glowing reputation for its traditional confectionery products prepared under the same old recipes and processes. Any frequent client of Elia coffee shop will fondly mention their pasti tal-marmurat, their honey rings, their strawberry granita, their ice-cream and their meat pies. Every product is prepared in a traditional way without any excessive fuss yet with a taste which tells a story of what genuine local cuisine is all about.

Credit by Alan Saliba

In time, the company invested in outside catering and in 1964, the bakery was moved to Villambrosa Street in Œamrun, where it is still situated today. In 1979, five of Elia’s sons – Carmelo, Saviour, Elia Jr, Francis and Gaetano – formed a company called Elia Borg Bonaci Ltd. which took over the family business in January 1980. The sons embarked on an expansion programme which also saw the bakery modernised with new state of the art machinery and equipment. The next major stepping stone in the company’s history was the acquisition of The Palms in 1994; their own exclusive venue in St Julians. At around the same time, the premises of Elia Café was enlarged again and fully refurbished and upgraded with more new equipment and facilities.

The company did not rest on its laurels and two years ago opened their new twin venues, Giardini Lambrosa and Veranda, in the outskirts of Mdina. The launch of the new venue coincided with the transition of the management of the family business to the third generation. The new management team is now mainly made up of young brothers, sisters and cousins who have been working in the business for a number of years under the direction of their fathers. A few weeks away from the company’s 65th anniversary celebrations, I met up with Pawlu Borg Bonaci. I knew Pawlu mainly for his talent as a natural-born entertainer. Indeed I admit to know more about Pawlu in his role with Fakawi and in Rockestra. Very little did I know about his role as director of Elia Borg Bonaci. With his signature smile, he invites me to take a chair where we quickly set the tone on the new generation. He quickly points out that “we owe a lot to our fathers and grandfathers. They created a legacy which has now been handed over to the next generation.” Change was a natural process. “When the old generation starts growing up and their energy starts to lessen, the process turns out to be inevitable. Ours was also due to investments we were working on. A case in point was Giardini L’Ambrosa.” He adds that four years ago the company experienced a paradigm shift developing into a more market oriented company thus not looking inside but also outside. “This process brought a new mindset and a different style of management including the incorporation of non-family members in top management roles which ensured new working methods and fresh ideas.” As well placed by Pawlu; “every member in the business now has a defined role. We are not here because we form part of the family but because we have specific responsibilities to answer for.” As part of the new generation’s set goals for the years to come is an ambitious plan for further expansion. Pawlu notes that “We are a big family thus we need to expand our company. Expansion will ensure a better definition of roles and duties.” He adds that “at the heart of our expansion projects is catering.” The expansion comes by no coincidence but by means of a very well defined plan through market research the company has invested in. “It

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Credits by Alan Saliba is no more time to manage by instinct. It is no more time to focus only introspectively. We have learnt that every project undertaken needs to be determined by a deep market research which helps us know public perception on our products and service, changing market trends and habits and global developments. Every ingredient is critical to ensure our next moves are done in the best possible manner.” Indeed, the past years were very hectic for the new generation preparing their legacy for the future. The new process did not disregard the past but rather built on the company’s history and traditions yet keeping in mind market trends and demands. Pawlu notes that “the past can never be put aside. It is part of our own identity and what made us stand out of the crowd for the past decades. A successful recipe should be well preserved yet given a modern twist to ensure its relevance in the present and future.” The key factor is to find a happy marriage between traditions and innovation. William Pollard once noted that “learning and innovation go hand in hand. The arrogance of success is to think that what you did yesterday will be sufficient for tomorrow.” Yet what makes you innovative? Pawlu notes

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that “innovation is a pretty subjective matter. At times I ask whether we are innovative yet when I see others emulate our concepts then there is certainly a good dose of innovation in our work. We certainly do not need to reinvent the wheel. It is just a matter of adapting our concepts.” He also notes “should we change our prinjolata, our kannoli, our traditional torta tal-lewÿ, our lampuki pie or our famous caramella? Certainly not. However we are called to complement our classics with new products. At some point our traditional products were considered innovative. We are once again called to innovate.” During this change process, the directors of the company were faced with two schools of thought; one of which favoured the concept that ‘I produce and client decides whether to come or not’, and another that propagated the concept that ‘we offer a product the client wants’. Pawlu notes that “the trick lies in our ability to find a compromise between the two schools thus at times challenging clients to come out of their comfort zone. It can be risky yet can also be rewarding.” The drive for innovation is also determined by competition. “We do not operate in a vacuum. We operate in a market with direct and indirect competitors. The market is constantly evolving with a new generation taking

PAWLU BORG BONACI

over traditional local caterers, with new players on the market and with increasing indirect competition.” Pawlu notes that “Competition is critical. It keeps you on your toes and challenges you to constantly check on yourself. It is fundamental though that you are not carried away by competition.” Nevertheless, Pawlu stresses on the need for a sustainable market. I ask him to elaborate to which he notes that “we never must take anything for granted. We have seen a number of entities in the industry that went down. Keeping the momentum is the hardest thing to do. We learnt from our ups and downs. Every experience we went through kept us fighting and believing in the company. However if we’ve been around for sixty five years, our model works. We only need to keep our eyes wide open.” He also adds that the economy is at the moment at is best. If an economy is performing, people need to be entertained yet at a time of depression, people also need to be entertained. Thus the industry has the ability to sustain the influx of new operators. What really matters is the ability of such entities to sustain their long term existence by creating a constant appetite in their product or service. This is why we have embarked on a process of regeneration. We started off with the weddings and now will slowly touch on the coffee shop.” The coffee shop is indeed a staple of Œamrun society. I remember watching impressed the beautiful displays in the outlet, all packed with wines, spirits and sweets. The place would be in full glory during special events such as the Festive Season, Easter and Valentines. The place has that sense of timeless element which keeps it relevant to date. People grow, others pass away yet, the place remains intact. However, there is a time when we are called to renew. Pawlu notes that “the coffee shop is a delicate matter. It is not easy to drastically renovate as you risk losing the identity of the place. We are at the moment evaluating various options so as to handle the place in the best possible manner. Whatever decision will be taken, there will not be any drastic aesthetic changes”

It is time to move on to my next appointment yet before calling it a day, I ask Pawlu what we should expect from the company in the next sixty five years. “We introduced new blood in key segments to take over and to decide. Our job is to keep the balance. We know the company, we know our clients, yet it is our duty to listen to what people have to say. At times an employee knows more than we do.

He concludes by noting that “We started something three years ago. For sure, we will be one of the main brands in the local catering industry. That is certain. The company will grow with a very delicate pace. Elia never grew at a fast pace and that is how it should be. Some are still discovering their role in the company yet we will all slowly find our place. We certainly have some exciting times ahead.” I leave the place with a sense of nostalgia yet with a smile as this company certainly has a bright future with a new generation that is well geared to reach its goals and make its predecessors proud. September 2018

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Lampuki Fillets in Beer Batter Recipe by Matthew Schembri - Lovage Fish supplied by Rodney's Fish Shop

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INGREDIENTS 4 sides (medium size) Lampuki fillets 350g Plain flour 250g Self raising flour 33cl Hopleaf 2.5 Litre vegetable oil. Salt and pepper 75g Capers (washed & rinsed) 2 Small gherkins 100g Mayonnaise Parsley 4 Medium potatoes

Method  Get 4 sides of Lampuki from your fishmonger ready filleted.  For beer batter, mix 250g of the plain flour, 250g self-raising flour, hopleaf and whisk everything together till you get a good consistency.  Heat oil in a heavy base pan about 180˚C.  Roll the lampuki fillets in the remaining plain flour, then dip into the beer batter and deep fry until golden brown.  To make caper mayonnaise. Chop the capers, gherkins and parsley. Fold in a bowl with the mayonnaise.  Cut the potatoes into chips and deep fry in a heavy base pan.  Drain well the battered Lampuki on a paper kitchen towel.  Serve the battered Lampuki and chips on a plate with the caper mayonnaise on the side.

Keith Farrugia

Italian Stuffed

THE MEAT SHOP

Pork Tenderloin Ingredients 1 large Pork tenderloin 2 8oz Packets cream cheese (we used about 2 1/2) 1 jar Roasted red peppers 1 Packet bacon cooked, crumbled 2 Packets dried pesto seasoning Spinach leaves fresh (to taste) Olive oil Salt & Pepper Paprika

METHOD  Spread out the pork tenderloin and get it nice and flat.  Once the tenderloin is flat and has a good surface area, spread the cream cheese all over the top. Lay the roasted red peppers over the cream cheese then sprinkle on the crumbled bacon. Evenly sprinkle on the packages dried pesto seasoning and lay the spinach leaves all over the top.  Roll the pork up and tie it shut with kitchen twine. Next, rub olive oil, paprika, salt and pepper all over the pork and place in a greased baking dish or you can put it on a greased cookie sheet. Bake at 350˚C about 6090 minutes or until pork is cooked through. Once cooked, slice and serve.

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Family's Food

Legacy

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Credits by Giada de Laurentiis September 2018

Interview with

Giada de

Laurentiis, Chef, Writer, and Television Personality

he granddaughter of famed producer Dino De Laurentiis, Giada De Laurentiis is one of the most popular household names on the food network. She is a best-selling author and well-known culinary personality thanks to her undisputed charisma, her captivating smile and her unique approach to relate food. Indeed, Giada has over the years earned a reputation thanks to her unique flair to create amazing easy to follow recipes which convey her Italian roots and her extensive travelling. She also established herself as a successful restauranteur with her first restaurant, called GIADA, inside The Cromwell in Las Vegas, Nevada. Giada, shared with us what attracted her to cooking, her interpretation of food and her latest projects including Giadzy.com.

What encourages a UCLA graduate in anthropology to shift her career to cooking? Growing up in an Italian family, food was a big part my life. I knew I wanted to get an education but cooking was always my passion. So when I graduated and had to figure out what to do next, I decided to do what made me happiest, so I went to culinary school. Even though anthropology seems unrelated, it’s all about culture and people, and cooking brings those two things together.

You have often talked about the gastronomic experience Sicily offers. What makes Sicily such a special place to dine in? Sicily is a relatively undiscovered part of Italy that people don’t go to very often but it’s actually one of the top 5 best spots in the world to eat because of the richness of the soil and the geographical location. The Mediterranean Sea feeds the soil and creates incredibly fresh ingredients. It also has a rich culinary history with influences from North Africa and Italy.

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How were you spotted for Food Network? My grandfather, Dino was very involved in the film industry, particularly in Italy but he was known in the States as well. So, after we started my catering company GDL Foods, Food & Wine magazine asked me to write about my family’s Sunday dinner traditions. From there the rest was history. An exec at Food Network got hold of the piece and thought I had potential. I didn’t want to do it. I just wanted to cook and I was very nervous but I guess I did alright because they ultimately gave me my first show, Everyday Italian.

You also recently noted that truffle is an overrated ingredient. What makes it so? It’s very strong and overpowering. These days there is truffle in everything, whereas years ago it used to be a seasonal delicacy. To me there are more interesting flavours.

Tell us about your Fund Her Farm initiative. In what way is it helping some in the agriculture industry? I worked with Simply7 to create the Fund Her Farm initiative to help organizations that support and empower networks of female farmers in the US. A lot of these farmers are very isolated from one another, so there are fewer spaces where they can get together to share information and advance in their careers. Fund her

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Farm works to create better access to these communities, and we hope as they continue to establish themselves we will eventually meet our goal to source all of the corn for our popcorn from female farmers. It’s something I am very proud of.

What about your new on-line platform Giadzy.com? Giadzy is my passion project and what I’m spending most of my time focusing on right now. Giadzy was my nickname growing up and it’s what my family still calls me. I put all of my new recipes out on Giadzy. com first, my travel tips for Italy, entertaining ideas and videos. We do a lot of quick, easy meals for weeknights too. I always wished there was somewhere that shared that kind of Italian food and travel content when I was growing up, so it’s fun for me to share that with others now. I am sort of making it up as I go but I think that’s the beauty in it. It’s very real and organic. Oh, and we’re working on an entertaining product line too! Very excited about that!

Any new plans in the pipeline? Yes! I’m working on a new product line for Giadzy that I’m really excited about. A new show in Italy. And hopefully another restaurant. I have two in Las Vegas and one in Baltimore, so who knows where we will go next!

GIADA DE LAURENTIIS

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Making Memories at

Corinthia St George Meet up and enjoy quality time at Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay this upcoming season

an you think of anything better than getting together with all the family on a Sunday for a catch up over lunch, and not have to think about any of the preparation (or cleaning up)? Instead, pick a time and head down to Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay to enjoy a fabulous buffet lunch surrounded by your nearest and dearest. Hosted within the Fra Martino Restaurant, Sunday Buffet Lunches at Corinthia are just as you’d imagine them; stylish, memorable, and absolutely delicious. Offering a massive selection of premium dishes, Corinthia’s kitchen brigade put their best foot forward every Sunday and dazzle their guests with an assortment of delectable dishes from around the globe. From sushi tables, to live pasta cooking stations, a carvery, a vast selection of main course dishes, an Oriental station as well as an ample local artisan table – buffet lunches at Fra Martino every Sunday are set to impress. The dishes are varied and meticulously created, offering diners a sumptuous feast to enjoy. Of course, always leave room for dessert. Expect

a wide selection of sweet delicacies just begging to be sampled; we recommend keeping room for this last table - it’s Sunday after all. Live entertainment is available, as well as a dedicated kids’ section that includes specially created dishes as well as animation throughout lunch. Apart from that, three hours of free parking are also included to ensure that your Corinthia experience is pleasurable from the very start. Buffet lunches are priced at ¢37.50 per adult and children under 12 eat for free. If Sunday doesn’t work, there’s always the option of enjoying Surf & Turf night, every Saturday, also at Fra Martino. This dining event presents an all-you-can-eat buffet including antipasti, starters, side dishes, and prime meat and fresh fish displays – simply pick your favourite option and watch it being grilled to perfection while you dine. And finally, if you’re after something a little more intimate, why not get together and enjoy afternoon tea? Expect a lavish display of fresh sandwiches, cakes and pastries, along with a pot of tea, coffee, or perhaps a glass of prosecco if the mood feels right – served all day. September 2018

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77, Three Churches Street, Balzan, BZN 1300, Malta 130

September 2018

www.cosecasa.com (+356) 2144 7672

CORINTHIA

Paella Ingredients Large pinch Saffron strands 600ml Vegetable or chicken stock 3 tbsp Olive oil 125g Chorizo, thin slices 500g boneless, skinless Chicken thighs 1 Onion, finely chopped 3 Garlic cloves, finely chopped 1 Red pepper, deseeded and chopped 2 tsp Paprika 250g Spanish paella rice or long grain 4 medium Tomatoes, roughly chopped 75g frozen Peas 300g cold water Prawns , mussel meat and shell on langoustine Small handful flat-leaf Parsley, chopped, to serve Chopped lemon wedges, to serve

Method  Stir the saffron strands into the stock and set aside to infuse while you prepare the rest of the paella.  Heat 1 tbsp oil in a paella pan or a large deep frying pan with a lid. Tip in the chorizo and fry for about 3 minutes until crisp and the oil has been released. Remove the chorizo and drain on kitchen

paper, leaving the oil in the pan.  Stir the chicken into the pan and fry over a high heat for 7 to 8 minutes, or until the meat is golden and cooked through. Transfer the chicken to a bowl and set aside.  Pour another 1 tbsp of oil into the pan, tip in the chopped onion and garlic and stir-fry for 4 to 5 minutes, until softened and just starting to colour. Stir in the pepper and paprika with the reamaining tablespoon of oil and stir-fry for a further 1 to 2 minutes. The pan should have lots of crispy, brown bits on the bottom, which will all add flavour.  With the heat still quite high, quickly stir in the rice so it is well-coated in the oil, then pour in the saffroninfused stock plus 450ml boiling water, scraping up the sticky brown bits from the bottom of the pan with a wooden spoon.  Return the browned chicken pieces to the pan, then add the chopped tomatoes. Cover the pan and cook on a medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring once or twice. Scatter the peas, prawns and fried chorizo over the top, cover again and leave to cook a further 5 minutes, or until the rice is just cooked and most of the liquid in the pan has been absorbed.  Remove the pan from the heat, put the lid on and leave to rest for 5 minutes. Stir a few times to mix the ingredients, season to taste and scatter over the chopped parsley. Serve with lemon wedges and an extra drizzle of oil, if you like. September 2018

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SATURDAY NOVEMBER 2018

COTTAGE GARDENS . ZURRIEQ

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CORINTHIA

Scones Ingredients

Method

225g Self raising flour pinch of Salt 55g Butter 25g Caster sugar 150ml Milk 1 Egg, beaten, to glaze (alternatively use a little milk)

 Preheat oven to 220˚C/Gas Mark 7. Prepare a lightly greased baking sheet.  Mix together the flour, salt and rub in the butter.  Stir in the sugar and then the milk to get a soft dough.  Turn on to a floured work surface and knead very gently until smooth. Pat dough into a 2cm thick round. Using a 5cm round cutter cut out rounds and place on the greased baking sheet . Lightly knead together the rest of the dough and cut out more scones to use it all up.  Brush the tops of the scones with a beaten egg and bake for 12-15 minutes until well risen and golden brown.

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Credit by Maria Deguara

Wine Uncorked Interview with

Fabien

Etienne, Sommelier & Consultant

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ccept what life offers you and try to drink from every cup. All wines should be tasted; some should only be sipped, but with others, drink the whole bottle.

Paulo Coelho, Brida

abien Etienne is an accomplished sommelier with a wealth of experience earned travelling to various acclaimed wine regions and thanks to his deep research on local viticulture which blends perfectly with his passion for all that pertains to the world of wine. Raised in the beautiful region of Brittany in France, Fabien graduated from Hospitality in Vannes and later embarked on furthering his knowledge of wine in 2005 with a â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Sommellerie Schoolâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; in Saumur. His curriculum is impressive and includes experience in high end gastronomic restaurants around the world including Le Laurent** (Paris), The Vineyard at Stockcross** (UK), The HĂ´tel du Palais (Biarritz, France), Dinner by Heston Blumenthal** at Mandarin Oriental (London), as well as Aziamendi and Esenzi at Iniala Beach House (Phuket, Thailand). Fabien has recently embarked on a mission in Malta where he is dedicating his time and energy to see the local wine industry take the necessary leap forward so as to be respected and appreciated on the island and abroad. Fabien took some time of his busy agenda to share with us his thoughts about the industry and what future he predicts for the local wine sector. September 2018

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What does wine mean to you? It is my life. I live wine, I believe in wine and I drink wine. I study everyday. I am currently preparing the final diploma level to become one of the 249 Master Sommelier in the world. Wine is indeed something I love.

How is the local wine market evolving? The market is still behind when compared to other countries yet it is gradually evolving. I must say, we have noted a significant development over the past year and a half from the copy paste model adopted by the market. The mindset is evolving mainly due to training and education of restaurant owners and above all, the staff. People are also travelling more thus exposing themselves to wine cultures, they attend more tasting sessions and wine festivals and are also more inclined to attend international wine fairs which all help to enrich wine enthusiasts with a better knowledge and appreciation of good wine.

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FABIEN ETIENNE

To what extent do you feel the quality of local wine is improving? There has been a substantial improvement in quality of local wine produced. This is mainly due to a heavy investment by producers in research and development, the production process and in the grape itself. Today, the market offers some very good wines some of which are my favourites. The quality of several boutique wineries including Marcus Divinus, San Niklaw and Massar has also improved significantly with some of their wines having such an exceptional taste. 2017 was a very good year for the local wine industry and this is evident from the products exhibits during fairs. I must say, the temperature in Malta offers a huge challenge to the quality of the wine yet the investment by wine producers is ensuring a level of consistency.

Which local varieties would you recommend? Malta boasts a very good Syrah. The quality is very high and can be well appreciated in some local wines produced by the main local wineries as well as some boutique wineries. I also feel the level of local Vermentino Chardonnay and Ă&#x2020;ellewĂża is very good.

Is there enough appreciation for local wines? There is still a negative perception for local wines. Consumers are still proposed to prefer an Italian wine rather than local wine. The price is cheaper and there is less risk in their choice. Local wines are still consumed mainly by tourists. It is all a matter of education. With a proper education campaign focussing mainly on the young generation, can create a culture favouring local wines. It is a gradual process which calls for perseverance and patience. Wine tasting events, degustation events, wine master classes and festivals are key platforms to develop such culture. Wine pairing is another exceptional platform.

To what extent do you feel Malta still adheres to a 'red is for meat and white is for fish culture?'

Unfortunately yes, it is still very present. 90 % of waiters do not pair properly which inevitably further consolidates such misconception. There are some outlets who are investing heavily in good sommeliers and and in good staff education yet this is not enough. Other outlets should understand that such investment is rewarding and will contribute to their outlet's growth.

Is the industry brand driven? Yes. Consumers generally go for popular names. This brand focus means it is now hard for producers to charge what the wines are worth as they are associated with supermarkets and entry-level prices.

Local beer has worked well on the international market yet wine still struggles abroad, why? Beer is a strong beverage consumed across all continents which offers more entry points for beer producers on the international market. On the other hand, wine has a more complex procedure to penetrate international markets. Wine depends on trust. It depends a lot on journalists who spot wines and expose them in key international circles through their articles. Malta needs to step up its level and ensure a proper visibility for its wines abroad. Countries like Croatia, Bulgaria and Slovenia are stepping up their wine, Malta has not yet made such a leap forward.

What's next for Fabien Etienne? I created a wine consultancy to change the local mindset. The local market offers me a great platform where I can develop the wine industry and take it to the next level. My effort will serve no purpose unless I have the support of all major stakeholders in the local wine industry. We need to focus on tasting session and masterclasses so as to increase education on local wines raise further awareness on their strengths and characteristics. We also need to understand the opportunities the international market offers to local wines and invest further into key mediums that will raise interest in local wine.

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The

Essence of Success P

Interview with

Nicolas

Lambert, Executive Pastry Chef at Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace St. Petersburg

astry takes a different dimension in the hands of Chef Nicolas Lambert. Every pastry creation is a breathtaking experience of tastes, artfully plated, and primed to tease your palate. His work is indeed impressive and the several accolades he has been awarded speak volumes about the talent of a man whose vision is well beyond his years. The latest trophy under his belt is the coveted Asia’s Best Pastry Chef 2018 Award, a title he has just won at the highly prestigious Asia’s 50 Best Restaurant Awards held in Wynn Palace Macau recently. Nicolas Lambert shared with us his early steps in the pastry world, his style and his plans for the future.

How is the career of a French born in a family of bakers and pastry chefs determined in advance? I would say it developed in a very natural way. From a very young age, me and my twin brother Julien, used to help our parents in their bakery. During that time spent there in the bakery we understood the challenges the industry offered yet we were both determined to become pastry chefs. Our passion for pastry was too strong for us to seek an alternative career. You don’t do pastry for the money. It’s hard, there are plenty of other jobs that are easier and much more rewarding, but we really wanted to do it, and our parents are very proud of what we achieved.

After your stay in Cannes, you moved to Hong Kong. What encouraged you to move east? After having worked in various places across France, I felt the need for a new professional challenge which for several reasons Hong Kong seemed to offer. My move to the Four Seasons Hotel restaurant Caprice was a huge challenge as I barely spoke a word of English when I arrived and had never worked in restaurants yet my determination helped me overcome all the initial challenges I came across.

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Nicholas LambErt

Critics have noted that your cakes are reflected: simple and straightforward. How much do you agree? I strongly believe that it is the simple things which have a major impact on our life. Yet the creation of simple matters is not that easy to achieve. It requires seasonal products which are brought together to develop amazing desserts. Simplicity is also determined in the role seasonal products play in a recipe. They should be the main ingredients and not just serve for decoration purposes.

Credit by Tasting Kitchen Magazine, Hong Kong

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What is the biggest challenge of being a pastry chef? You must always be creative and ensure your work has a clear personal imprint which makes it stand out of the crowd. Success is also determined by the creation and retention of a strong team that constantly follows you and believes in you.

You often notice that â&#x20AC;&#x153;hard work always pays offâ&#x20AC;?. How were you rewarded? I never imagined to win the title of the best pastry chef in Asia yet thanks to my work and patience, I have been wonderfully awarded with such a prestigious award.

You have often been defined as the king of raspberries. Why? Raspberries are my preferred fruit which has inevitably often led me to such an amazing fruit in my signature pastry dishes.

Why do you exclusively use French cream in your pastries? It has a wonderful taste and gives a unique texture to my desserts. I managed to adapt it everywhere I travelled in the world.

You have more than 100,000 fans on Instagram. What makes your work so popular on social networks? When I arrived in Hong Kong, I discovered an incredible team of communication and started to use more and more social media. It is important for me to share what I do in a transparent manner. I want to ensure consistency in what they see and what they taste.

How does the concept of sustainability fit into a pastry kitchen? I think it is necessary to adapt to the new rhythm of people by suggesting less sugar, fat and colour or aroma free things. Good and true!

What should we expect from Nicolas Lambert in the years to come? A happy person who hopes to build a beautiful family while developing further my pastry techniques and professional career.

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love Gozo love food enjoy Country Terrace

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Country Terrace Lounge Bar & Restaurant Zewwieqa Street, Mgarr - Gozo

Tel: +356 2155 0248 Mob: +356 9944 6833 Email: info@country-terrace.com

Chicken

Roulade INGREDIENTS:

500g Chicken breast corn fed 100g Pancetta 125g Brie cheese (Camembert) Pinch of Parsley Olive oil Pinch of salt and pepper 30g Cranberry sauce Cherry tomatoes and rucola for garnish

Method:  With a very sharp knife, fillet the chicken breast from the middle. Make it thin and important that the breast will remain attached.  On a flat surface place 6 pieces of pancetta on plastic wrap. Make three on one side and another on the other side. Make sure each one overlaps the other. Place the chicken breast on top of the pancetta. Cut the brie into rectangle shapes and

place the brie on the breasts. Season with parsley, salt and pepper. Roll up the breasts and secure with toothpicks forming a roulade.

Cooking:  Pre heat the steam oven at a temperature of

95˚C.  Steam the chicken roulade for about 25 minutes.  Remove the plastic wrap and drizzle some olive oil. Pre heat the oven for about 10 minutes reaching temperature of 220˚C. Bake the chicken breast for about 5 minutes or until golden.  In a sauce pan preheat freshly prepared cranberry sauce.

Serving:  Pre heat a plate to a 50˚C, place the chicken

roulade and spoon the warm cranberry sauce around it.  Garnish with rucola and cherry tomatoes.  Serve immediately.

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A Positive Performance

Interview with

Alain James

Grech, Chef Patron at The Chef's Table

Credits by Alan Saliba

pening a restaurant is easy. Keeping it going is hard. Chef Alain James Grech quickly realized that you need more than a passion for food to open a restaurant, you need extensive business knowledge and a tough spirit. The past months since Chef Grech opened his restaurant in BuĂŚibba did not come without cuts and bruises, yet thanks to his talent, determination and the unconditional support of his partner, Noemi the outlet is gradually giving the desired results. Chef Grech shares with us the initial challenges he came across in his entrepreneurial journey, the recent results and his plans for the future.

How would you assess your experience over the past months? Opening your first business looks like putting your life on the edge. You are literally investing all your money into the unknown. When we opened last winter, the initial months where tough and we had to think outside the box to keep the wheel rolling. Steadily, the restaurant picked up and we had a very good summer and we learnt as we went along!!

Running a restaurant is no easy task. In what way did it effect your own personal life? As a Chef my social life was minimal, so this new 144

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business venture did not really effect me. I am lucky to share my passion with my partner Noemi which makes things easier. We always make sure to have a day off and that gives us the necessary energy every week to move on.

What makes the outlet so sought after? Our motto is 'Food cooked with love and served with a smile.' That is our promise and that is what keeps our loyal clientele coming back. Value for money is also an important aspect as well as honesty.

In what way will your menu change during the Autumn and Winter season? We are planning to launch a new more refined menu in the begining of December so the menu will not change much during the Autumn season. However, specialities are always sought after especially fresh local fish and seafood.

Any projects for the future? We are planning to upgrade the restaurant's decor, change the set up and improve our operation. During the past months, we learnt alot and we know where we need to improve. We are always looking for talented individuals who share our ideals and we look at the future with a sense of positivity and if an opportunity for another business comes along our way we will certainly take it!!

Crispy Octopus with grilled red pepper salsa and avocado

Pan Roasted Grouper with Lobster tail,

new potatoes and Lobster essence

Ingredients

Red pepper salsa

Octopus Garlic butter Basil Seasoning White wine

Red peppers Basil Mint Coriander Sugar White wine vinegar Seasoning

Method  Slow cook the octopus until tender. Drain the octopus piercing it with the tip of a knife to check it is tender. Cut the tentacles into roughly 5cm long.  Fry in cast iron pan until crispy, add the garlic butter and turn the tentacles over occasionally until rich in caramel colour.  Add the basil and white wine for flavour and acidity.

Method  Grill the red peppers until surface is burnt, peel the peppers and dice.  Mix with the other ingredients to taste. Avocado Purée  Blend the avocado with lemon juice, green chilli and seasoning.

 Prepare the lobster essence by frying the lobster shell with onions, carrots, fennel and garlic, add tomato paste and cook. Add in some brandy and flame. Add white wine and reduce heat, add fish stock, lemon and orange zest, thyme, bay leaf, star anise and pepper corns. Bring to a boil and reduce heat to a simmer. Cook for about 1 hour and 45 minutes until essence is aromatic and flavourful. Pour essence through a fine sieve.  Parboil the new potatoes.  In another pan roast the grouper and add the new potatoes. Finish the lobster under the grill with garlic butter.  Dress the plate. September 2018

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astry

Perfection Credit by Martin Chiffers

Interview with Chef

Martin

Chiffers, International Pastry Consultant

artin Chiffers is one of the most respected British pastry chefs in his country. He is an international pastry consultant with over thirty yearsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; experience who has worked at some of the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s most famous venues, including Harrods, Raffles Hotel in Singapore and The Savoy Hotel in London. He is the only pastry chef in the world to have won the European Pastry Cup Coupe du Monde de la Patisserie twice with Best Sugar and Chocolate Piece, and the highest points in all categories consecutively. Notwithstanding his very busy agenda, Chef Chiffers found some time to discuss with us his journey in the world of pastry, his views on the industry and what are his plans for the future. 146

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What attracted you towards the world of pastry? I grew up in the Abbey Hotel kitchens in Penzance Cornwall with my mother who became the head chef and later had recipes in Vogue Magazine. The gorgeous 1960’s, one of the world’s first supermodels, Jean Shrimpton, aka “The Shrimp”, purchased the hotel when I was about 11. So cracking the eggs and mixing the ingredients was like a job after school. I owe my passion for cooking to my mother and even my kids today crave her cooking and compare it to my own. I became passionate about Pastry whilst I was at college and since I always got top marks with distinctions in my exams I decided to specialise in this artistic profession which I fell in love with. The art, the science, the creativity excited me and knowing I will always have a job as everyone needs to eat made me feel secure as a young man heading to London at the age of 18.

Some critics have defined you as “a real renaissance man on the British food scene.” To what extent do you agree? I have been called all sorts of things and some make me laugh; a real renaissance man, the pastry Macgyver, teacher of teachers, and even sugar daddy in Singapore!! And that’s not what you think it is but because I used to work a lot with pulled and blown sugar. I think I can turn my hand to almost anything and do quite well; I kind of don’t give up and push myself to learn more, I love anything that is artistic and technical, from being a chef to clay sculpting and mould making, drawing, photography, graphic design, web design, building, carpentry and electronics.

What is so special about chocolate? I got really artistically passionate about chocolate about 15 years ago and also started sculpting it. I have used chocolate in my creations since I was a young chef and it took me a while to really understand it and how complex it can be; I still see some people who work with chocolate and struggle with the confidence in using it. Chocolate is such an amazing ingredient and product. I love the tastes, the aromas, the acidity and working with it is just fantastic; different textures and creamy, crunchy, soft and different notes make it so versatile. September 2018

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Chocolate is ruined by humidity and the fridge is the worst place for it unless it has humidity control.

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What role does teaching play in educating people on the storage and proper usage of chocolate? Most of the people I teach already have some level of understanding including storage of chocolate and know that it needs to be kept in a cool dry and preferably dark environment. Chocolate is ruined by humidity and the fridge is the worst place for it unless it has humidity control. Here is a story: I think it was in around 1999 when I went to the Gordon Ramsay restaurant at Royal Hospital Road; it was not long after we worked together on a promotion he did in Singapore Raffles Hotel, and after the amazing meal he asked me for my feedback, I told him everything was so good and beautiful but the chocolate had condensation and sugar bloom: the chefs in his kitchen had been keeping them in an airtight container in the fridge and this was the main problem. I said that he should keep them in the basement as it was a good temperature and just bring up daily for service and not keep in the fridge and the problem was solved.

You are the creator of the World’s most extravagant chocolate Easter bunny and the World’s most expensive Christmas pudding. What were the major challenges in creating such work of art? These two projects where dreamed up with a company called VeryFirstTo and it was certainly a successful venture in terms of media coverage and went crazy for a while in news all over the world from magazines to website TV and Sky news, I had messages from friends working as far away as Australia, France and the USA saying “I just saw you on TV”. There are not too many challenges for me so when it was just about time I had to prepare, the challenge for VeryFirstTo was getting the Diamonds, cognac and gold coin.

How does the concept of sustainability fit into a pastry chef or chocolatier’s kitchen? I think this is something everyone should be concerned with, if buying as a consumer or producing chocolate, buying commercially and working with it. We have to end child labour, protect the

environment and stop deforestation, reduce the carbon foot print and look after the farmers and help them prosper. Global warming is affecting all ingredients that go into chocolate and to feed the growing world population, without depleting the world’s resources, the sustainable production of food stuffs must be scaled up from niche to norm.

What attracts your photographic lens? I got into Photography whilst I was working in Korea at the Grand and Coex Intercontinental Hotel IHG Seoul, and started doing the photos for the hotel and Elle magazine recipes. This followed me to Dubai and London and I took on quite a few professional food shots for chocolate companies, cooking schools and different competitions and events. Photographing food is my favourite and being creative with the light; I guess after doing so many dishes for other photographers and watching them and talking to them I learnt a lot. I think my advantage is that I am a pastry chef, photographer, post production editor and food stylist all rolled into one. But I will be honest: taking photos is so much easier with my Samsung S9+ edge.

What is next on your agenda? I have a lot planned in the future but my focus now is to increase my International Classes, whilst I was mainly teaching in the UK, I am reaching out to other schools and businesses around the World to do more master classes, demonstrations events and promotions. Coaching is another passion I enjoy so much from coaching Ruth Hinks, the UK highest scoring UK Chocolate master who came 5th in the World and to competing with The UK pastry team who are also now in the top 5 in the World cup, after being president for the team for the last 6 years. I also recently coached Hans Ovando and The Chile Team to Win the Copa Maya 2018 in Mexico and Team India for the Asia Pastry Cup 2018 who came 6th. It’s great to coach and the relationship we build and what we learn is unforgettable.

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One Sweet

Bahia Orange

Interview with

Colin

Tyrone

Ciantar, Mizzi, Owner

Executive Chef - Bahia

Credit by Tonio Lombardi 150

September 2018

great restaurant is one that just makes you feel like you're not sure whether you went out or you came home and confuses you. If it can do both of those things at the same time, you're hooked. Danny Meyer

rom a very young age, I always felt attracted to the village of Lija. Its charm lies mainly in its distinct character where the old village core perfectly blends with the new buildings, which stretch up to Tal-Mirakli area. Every house is different in shape, form and story. Indeed, I do fondly remember the long walks with my parents through its narrow streets following a visit to San Anton. I also vividly rekindle our visits to the village on the eve of the festa dedicated to Jesus Christ the Saviour, held annually on the 6th of August to watch the sky lit with all sorts of colourful pyrotechnics and firework display. The evening was also a special occasion for me to enjoy the taste of some freshly made candy floss or imqaret. When I grew older, my relationship with Lija took a further twist since half of my wife's roots lie embedded in this quiet and picturesque village.

Yet today, there is a further incentive which attracts me to the Lija. In the very heart of the village, hidden among the old imposing townhouses and colourful doors lies a small restaurant, Bahia. The name was not chosen by coincidence but rather to honour the reputation the village carries for the high quality oranges and citrus fruit. During my meeting with Colin Ciantar, owner of Bahia, he notes that "we felt we had to come up with a name which reflects the village of Lija. After an intense research we felt Bahia was the right choice for the outlet." The exact origin of the Bahia navel orange is shrouded and Brazilian orange growers tell many different stories. However, it seems likely that the variety, which from the outside resembles a human navel or bellybutton, originated as a mutation of September 2018

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COLIN CIANTAR & TYRONE MIZZI

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a laranja selecta orange tree sometime around 1820. As a mutant, seedless variety, navel oranges cannot be grown without grafting a branch from a navel orange tree onto another tree. It seems that one of these offshoots found its way to Malta and set its roots in Lija. The place has that feel only a traditional Maltese home will offer with an emphasis on soft fresh colours which give the place a distinct vibrant look. Natural stone is complemented with mustard, white, blue and shades of brown. Every colour is complementary and sets the perfect backdrop for amazing dishes. Despite its traditional look the place also boasts a contemporary kick which is visible in the style of wood selected and in specific decor present in the restaurant.

Walking through the outlet, I notice an orange tree at the centre of their internal courtyard. Whilst gazing at the three, Colin breaks my silence noting that her name is Chloe "it is our guardian angel. Chloe is a navel orange tree we planted just when we started. It represents us and guides us especially during dull moments." I ask Colin in what way does the place complement Bahia's gastro concept. "The place creates that vibe which teases your food creativity. The two hundred year old place is a melting pot of ideas

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which are brought together in every single dish prepared." He also adds that "Bahia is not only about dining. It is an experience which starts from the moment a client calls to reserve a table and continues after the customer leaves the place. Dining at Bahia must never be restricted by time; clients are invited to embark on a food journey during which the story of every plate presented will be told. That is probably what makes us stand out of the crowd" Colin also notes that their food message is not limited to the boundaries of the outlet yet is also extended through a very strong marketing campaign with a clear message often driven by concepts which have raised a few eyebrows. "Marketing is essential for us to reach out to the market and spell out the essence of our concept." Tyrone joins our conversation. He is the man behind the amazing dishes Bahia has quickly earned a reputation for. Busy carrying herbs and micro greens, he introduces himself and his connection with the world of food. Tyrone notes, â&#x20AC;&#x153;from a very young age, I was interested in food. Every moment spent in my grandmother's kitchen was such a unique experience which cultivated in me a deep passion towards

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anything pertaining to the world of food. I just loved helping nanna prepare her famous Christmas sweets and her amazing figolli. I also loved helping mum peeling vegetables and fruit to prepare our evening meal, Sunday lunch or her weekly family sweet treat. It was there in those kitchens where I took my very first steps in the world of food. It was during those moments that I said to myself, I want to become a chef!" Tyrone is young, bold and energetic. His eyes reflect a strong will to succeed in such a cutthroat industry. On the other hand his smile spells out his bubbly character and joie de vivre. Notwithstanding his relatively young age, he has been called to spearhead such an important kitchen. He has also been asked to ensure his philosophy together with the restaurant's ethos are spelt out clearly in every dish prepared. I ask him to share with me his food philosophy which he promptly points out to be, "keep it simple, exalt the beauty in every ingredient and above all ensure it tastes amazing." He adds that at the heart of every dish he prepares lies a cuisine, which stresses on local genuine fresh ingredients. "There is a story behind every herb, vegetable, fish or meat which should be

COLIN CIANTAR & TYRONE MIZZI

carefully shared with every guest. Every ingredient is a note which when brought together, create an amazing piece of music." He adds "I always considered myself a rule breaker and never felt I could fit into strait jackets. I always saw food as a way to think out of the box and an opportunity to turn the conventional into unconventional." I note to Tyrone that, Bahia is defined by critics as a fine dining restaurant. He promptly clarifies that the place has nothing to do with fine dining. "Fine dining is a different story. It calls for more manpower, a different setting and a different format of food service." Nevertheless he notes that "we do our utmost to offer an excellent product and service keeping in mind the limitations of the outlet." He points out that "I would prefer to define the outlet as a polished bistro concept." We shift our conversation to the current trend in the culinary industry favouring condensed seasonal menus which Tyrone is a strong believer in. "We change our menu every four months. It is important to keep bringing new ideas to our regular customers. Moreover, it is a way of motivating our staff. It also helps our team to constantly evolve." Our conversation on food inevitably touches on the autumn season. Tyrone eyes glow. He stops for a while and with a smile notes that "Autumn is such an amazing time of the year. It is that time when temperatures gradually cool down. It is a time when our food habits opt for warmer dishes. It is a time when

pumpkins, cauliflower, sweet potatoes, asparagus, watercress, beans and oranges take the stage. It is that time of the year when we focus on casseroles, soups, risottos and roasts." It is time for me to conclude my interview yet before calling it a day; I felt the need to ask Colin a final question regarding the future. "This is indeed an exciting moment both for me and the restaurant. Firstly I am proud to lead such a very strong team. Each member is responsible for the different functions of Bahia, and this has been a key driver in the success of the restaurant during these years. I wish to thank my team for their commitment, all those who believed in this project, my family and above all my wife, Sharon for her unconditional support and patience. Bahia is not the end but part of a gastronomic ourney I have embarked on. More is yet to come." Tyrone adds that "Culinary wise, we are investing heavily in research and development to identify new recipes and techniques, which will be a pleasure to introduce to our guests. The team is also constantly thinking of concepts that may provide our guests with new experiences. Our recent blindfolded dinner is one of them. Recently we have also recruited Carlos Buttigieg, who is one of the youngest food talents in circulation." Bahia is indeed a gem worth a try. Its impressive combination of concept, ambience and talent makes it one of the best eateries on the island. When driving out of Lija make sure to slow down, find a parking space close by and try out its tastes and flavours.

Credit by Tonio Lombardi

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he Importance of the

WRMC Restaurants Awards The ultimate restaurant quality recognition awards in the Maltese Islands

Reno Spiteri, BBA.,CCTP., ACWP., WRMC Executive Director

Quality, Ambience, Service, Consistency, Value. The WRMC Restaurants Quality Recognition Awards are not just about a pat on the back or a quick ego boost. They enhance a restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reputation, help chefs, management and staff, take pride in their work and instil confidence in customers about the quality and professionalism of the restaurant in comparison with other restaurants that would not have been conferred with such an award. The WRMC also improve the networking opportunities by raising the restaurantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s profile within the restaurant industry, the tourism industry, experienced gourmands and highly discerning clients.

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Marketing and PR

Industry Leadership

Winning an award provides a vehicle for promoting your restaurant through marketing and public relations initiatives. It also offers a way to get your name out into the community in a cost-effective way. Unlike paying for a newspaper ad, a press release announcing your award can be turned into a story by the business section of your local paper. That results in free publicity as well as an opportunity to expand awareness of your restaurant in a way paid advertising cannot.

Awards from the WRMC which is a major trade group and association can give your business a credibility boost. Being recognized for unique concepts; outstanding cuisine quality and ambience; service and value; and best design practices; give you additional standing. Labelling your restaurant with the WRMC titles such as WRMC Silver Spoon Restaurant or WRMC Blue Riband Restaurant indicate the ultimate in quality recognition and consistency.

Status Seekers WRMC Restaurants Quality Recognition Awards can improve your standing within the restaurant industry. WRMC recognition can boost the confidence of potential customers who want something unique in their dining experience. They also open doors for business-to-business opportunities when suppliers are looking for opportunities to partner with a high-profile organization.

Hiring and Retention Winning awards can allow you to promote yourself to prospective job seekers as an award-winning restaurant, which can give you an edge in hiring and retaining top-flight talent. Employees may view your business as having more significant opportunities in the field. They also get the chance to boost their own careers by having an award-winning company

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epsi is one of the world's most iconic and recognized consumer brands globally, and this year Simonds Farsons Cisk plc. is celebrating its 40 years of partnership with Pepsi, having formalised the relationship in 1978.

Pepsi is a choice of generations

Pepsi-Cola forms part of the PepsiCo portfolio. PepsiCo products are enjoyed by consumers more than one billion times a day in more than 200 countries and territories around the world. PepsiCo generated more than $63 billion in net revenue in 2017, driven by a complementary food and beverage portfolio that includes Lipton, Gatorade, Walkers, Doritos, Quaker and Tropicana. PepsiCo's product portfolio includes a wide range of enjoyable foods and beverages, including 22 brands that generate more than $1 billion each in estimated annual retail sales. At the heart of PepsiCo is Performance with Purpose. It is a fundamental belief within PepsiCo that the success of the Company is inextricably linked to the sustainability of the world around us. PepsiCo believe that continuously improving products, operating responsibly to protect the planet, and empowering people around the world, enable them to run a successful global company that creates long-term value for society and shareholders. For more information, visit www.pepsico.com For more information on the 40 years anniversary celebrations and related activities, follow www.facebook.com/PepsiMalta

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listed on their rĂŠsumĂŠs. Existing employees, meanwhile, may have greater job satisfaction or higher morale knowing they're working for a leader in the field.

WRMC Restaurant Quality Recognition Awards - Criteria and benchmark on what is looked for by the WRMC Inspectors: 1. The WRMC Restaurant Awards recognize industry experts and establishments who are part of the diverse restaurant industry. Restaurant awards inspire creativity, excellence and healthy competition in the industry. 2. Restaurant awards provide an opportunity for restaurants in local, national and international markets to deliver an exceptional fine dining experience, customer service and above all, creativity. Recognition by the WRMC Restaurant Awards also further promotes restaurants based on their culinary accomplishments. 3. The WRMC Restaurant Awards recognize and acknowledge outstanding dining experiences based on the choice of menu ambiance and presentation of food. The awards are also a source of motivation and inspiration for staff to strive to achieve positive feedback from the public as well as food critics. 4. The focus of the WRMC Restaurant Awards is to highlight distinct features of a restaurant in terms of food, ambiance, and overall experience. The awards encourage competition globally, inspiring restaurants in the industry to strive towards improving their quality of food and service continually. 5. The WRMC Restaurant Awards are presented nationally within the Maltese Islands.

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Physical Requirements by the WRMC Assessment Team: Food that is Authentic

Visual Appearance

The WRMC Restaurant Awards are presented to establishments which cook food in a variety of styles: traditional; regional; ethic; fine as well as up-market casual; laying impetus on authenticity, freshness and seasonality of ingredients.

The WRMC Restaurant Awards are determined based on how customers are attracted by way of the cuisine preparation, presentation of ingredients and dishes.

Cuisine Served is Chef â&#x20AC;&#x201C; Conceived The awards are awarded based on dishes that are exclusively prepared by the Chef.

Kitchen Quality

The manner in which a restaurant presents its brand through signage and other innovative promotion techniques is also taken into account. Indication of WRMC titles and awards are of major importance once obtained.

The awards are also presented based on levels of hygiene maintained in the kitchen during the preparation of the dishes as well as within the general operation of the establishment.

Tableware: Cutlery & Crockery

Attire and Dress

Lighting which is appropriate to the theme and mood of the restaurant and augments the dining experience is also of importance.

The staff at the restaurant must display and maintain a high standard of attire and dress while servicing the customers. Furthermore, providing a superior ambiance with the decor, setting and theme that elevates the dining experience is of paramount importance.

The awards also consider the attention given to cutlery and crockery, a vital component of the presentation.

Lighting

Audio

Interiors

What music is played and how it adds to the vibe of the restaurant is also considered when presenting the award.

The Distinguished Restaurant Awards are presented based on the interiors of the restaurant and how they add to the appeal of the overall dining experience.

Forthcoming WRMC awards event:

Furnishing The awards also take into account the attention to detail in furnishing an establishment, something that is vital to enhancing the overall experience of the customers.

Furniture The detail to furniture in a restaurant and its role in increasing the comfort of customers is another important criterion that the restaurant award considers.

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The forthcoming WRMC Gala Dinner and Awards Ceremony are scheduled to be held on Monday, the 28th of January, 2019, at the Portomaso Suite at the Hilton Malta. WRMC stands for Wines and Restaurants of Malta. Com with website URL: www.winesandrestaurantsofmalta.com. Email: reno@wrmc.com.mt

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