Delicious No17

A Wintry Look

DELICIOUS JESSICA PREʼ ALPATO MITSUHARU TSUMURA HEINZ REITBAUER Defining Desseralité

RYAN BEZZINA

The Nikkei Factor

Pushing Boundaries

TICKETS FOR ALL YOUR

FAVOURITE CULTURAL EVENTS

WWW.KULTURA.MT

Food For Printing & Publishing: Union Print Co. Ltd, Workers' Memorial Building, 3rd Floor, South Street, Valletta +356 2590 0200 Editor: Omar Vella delicious@unionprint.com.mt Proof Reading: Ramona Marie Vella Cini Marthese Cauchi

The Magic of Christmas never ends and its greatest of gifts are family, friends and food The Delicious Food MagazineTeam

Design: Ryan Bezzina design@unionprint.com.mt Front image: Courtesy of Nina Tarasova Index image: Courtesy of Bahia Restaurant www.bahia.com.mt Photography by Tonio Lombardi Photos: We thank all contributers for providing photos and images.

Other photos taken

by Roger Azopardi & Alan Saliba Recipes: We thank all contributers for the recipes provided Advertising: info@unionprint.com.mt +356 2590 0200

No part of this publication may be reproduced, or transmitted in any form without the prior consent of Union Print Co. Ltd.

Thought Whilst listening to Michael Bublé’s ‘White Christmas’ I realise that Christmas is just round the corner and “’tis the Season to be jolly.”

Kitchens are packed with all sorts of ingredients which will shortly be used by chefs to create food, glorious food! Every item prepared is a work of art which attracts the eye of any passer by and truly conveys the skills of local and foreign chefs. The Delicious Winter edition brings together leading local and foreign culinary masters from all over the world who offer us the opportunity to take a sneak peak into their life, their vision, their projects and above all, their perspective from a food point of view of winter and Christmas. This edition also provides a helping hand to all food enthusiasts on how to impress their loved ones during the Festive Season events with some great recipes.

The Delicious Food Magazine team wishes you all a Happy & Joyful Christmas and a Prosperous New Year.

While we make every effort to make sure that the content of Delicious is correct, we cannot take any responsibility nor be held accountable for any factual errors printed.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

1

2

December 2019

DELICIOUS

DELICIOUS

December 2019

3

4

December 2019

DELICIOUS

INDEX 10 Arnaud Donckele 22 Mitsuharu Tsumura 32 Christian Borg & Daniel Muscat 52 Davide Guidara 66 Manouche 92 Jessica Préalpato 120 Heinz Reitbauer 125 Bahia Cheval Blanc Paris The Nikkei Factor The Vegan Way

A Sicilian Terroir

Great Expectations

Defining Desseralité

Pushing Boundaries Christmas at Bahia

DELICIOUS

December 2019

5

THE

HAMPER

COLLECTION €28

CHRISTMAS 2019 €25

€37

A hand-picked range of hampers filled with gourmet foods and fine wines.

E USTIVION L C EX LEC COL

€230 €115

E E D E L IV E

RY

FR

O

€73

DE

25

ON

R

R S O VE R

€

€50

View the full range online at

www.christmashampers.com.mt

ORDER YOUR HAMPER GIFTS ONLINE THIS FESTIVE SEASON www.christmashampers.com.mt Email: hampers@attardco.com.mt 6

Foo2019 d Ltd December

DELICIOUS

Phone: 2569 2801

or visit us at: Canter Business Centre, Patri Felicjan Bilocca Street, Marsa, Malta Victoria Gates, Fortunato Mizzi Street, Victoria, Gozo

The Place To Be This Christmas 30 Nov 2019 - 6 Jan 2020

www.visitgozo.com

DELICIOUS

December 2019

7

CAMILLERI TAL-ĦELU

A collection of seasonal hampers brimming with happiness and goodies, carefully chosen for all to enjoy.

HAMPERS CAN BE PURCHASED ONLINE AT www.ccamilleriandsonsltd.com.mt VIA EMAIL TO hampers@camillerigroup.com OR BY CALLING ON 21 241 642

8

December 2019

DELICIOUS

© 2019 McDonald's Corporation.

Salted Caramel Latte

Jazzy Pumpkin Cappuccino

All pictures shown are for illustration purpose only. Actual products may vary.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

9

10

December 2019

DELICIOUS

ARNAUD DONCKELE appointed Head Chef at Cheval Blanc Paris

A DISH IS FIRST AND FOREMOST AN EDIFICE OF EMOTION ARNAUD DONCKELE

AUTHENTIC TASTE Originally from Normandy, Arnaud Donckele has reinvented local, seasonal Mediterranean cuisine. How will Arnaud Donckele’s creativity contribute to the world of Parisian gastronomy? He is unquestionably one of the leading chefs who have turned gourmet cuisine into an art form, and every meal into a unique experience of lovingly arranged flavours, creating a palette of emotional experiences, soon to be discovered in Paris. For his craft, Arnaud’s imagination is aroused by both elective and selective affinities, developing close ties with dedicated local suppliers. He finds his inspiration on walks in the environs, for an approach rooted in authenticity, discernment and a free spirit.

UNIQUE TASTE QUINTESSENTIAL TASTE First half 2020: a gourmet experience awaits diners at the new Cheval Blanc Paris, with Arnaud Donckele at the helm. The three-star MICHELIN chef, who has also earned the accolade of a 19/20 rating in the Gault Millau guide, is currently in charge of La Vague d’Or restaurant, one of the gastronomic features of Cheval Blanc St-Tropez, which he will continue to command throughout the summer season. This enduring continued partnership and the focus on the sheer skill of his creations are a perfect illustration of the aesthetic values promoted by Cheval Blanc.

Arnaud Donckele will be cooking all year round, as a chef for all seasons, which will be a major asset for him to develop his creativity in both establishments. He will naturally maintain his commitment to short, direct distribution circuits, which alone ensure outstanding quality produce. He will at the same time add his own unique contribution: a freshness that creates a surprising feast for the senses on every occasion. A dash of wit at least on a par with the mouthwatering flavours crafted by a truly united and dedicated team. Arnaud Donckele is devoted to local agriculture and there is no doubt that from season to season, he will celebrate and pay tribute to the French capital, to perfection.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

11

12

December 2019

DELICIOUS

ARNAUD DONCKELE

LVMH HOTEL MANAGEMENT Developed by LVMH Hotel Management, Cheval Blanc is a brand of exceptional Maisons. The first one, Cheval Blanc Courchevel, opened in 2006 in Courchevel, followed by Cheval Blanc Randheli, which opened in the Maldives in autumn 2013.

The brand has continued its development with the opening of Cheval Blanc St-Barth Isle de France in the French West Indies in October 2014, Cheval Blanc St-Tropez in 2019 as well as future projects, namely in London and within La Samaritaine in Paris. LVMH Hotel Management also runs White 1921 Courchevel and White 1921 Saint-Tropez.

LVMH Hotel Management | 12 Cours Albert 1er | 75008 Paris +33 1 44 13 27 63 | www.chevalblanc.com

ABOUT LVMH LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton is represented in Wines & Spirits by a protfolio of brands that includes Moët & Chandon, Dom Pérignon, Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin, Krug, Ruinart, Mercier, Château d’Yquem, Domaine du Clos des Lambrays, Château Cheval Blanc, Colgin Cellars, Hennessy, Glenmorangie, Ardbeg, Belvedere, Woodinville, Volcán de Mi Tierra, Chandon, Cloudy Bay, Terrazas de los Andes, Cheval des Andes, Cape Mentelle, Newton, Bodega Numanthia and Ao Yun. Its Fashion and Leather Goods division includes Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior Couture, Celine, Loewe, Kenzo, Givenchy, Pink Shirtmaker, Fendi, Emilio Pucci, Marc Jacobs, Berluti, Nicholas Kirkwood, Loro Piana, RIMOWA and Jean Patou. LVMH is present in the Perfumes and Cosmetics sectors with Parfums Christian Dior, Guerlain, Parfums Givenchy, Kenzo Parfums, Parfumes Loewe, Benefits Cosmetics, Make Up For Ever, Acqua di Parma, Fresh, Fenty Beauty

by Rihanna and Maison Francis Kurkdjian. LVMH’s Watches and Jewelry division comprises Bulgari, TAG Heuer, Chaumet, Dior Watches, Zenith, Fred and Hublot. LVMH is also active in selective retailing as well as in other activities through DFS, Sephora, Le Bon Marché, La Samaritaine, Groupe Les Echos, Cova, Le Jardin d’Acclimatation, Royal Van Lent, Belmond and Cheval Blanc hotels.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

13

14

December 2019

DELICIOUS

DELICIOUS

December 2019

15

Panettone Flan with Cream

Portions: 4 single portions

Difficulty: easy

Time: approx. 20min. + 10 for cooking -Panettone FAVORINA; -Milk, 300ml; -Cream, 200ml; -Egg yolks, 4;

from our assortment

-Sugar, 120g; -Corn starch, 40g; -Butter, to taste; -Orange peel, to taste;

-Cut the panettone into cubes; -Heat the milk and cream in a pan, bringing up almost to boiling point; -Meanwhile whip up the yolks with the sugar, and fold in the sieved corn starch; -Pour the milk and cream onto the egg yolk mixture and whip it up, then put back onto the heat and mix until it has thickened; -Pour into a bowl, and add the grated orange peel; -Butter the single panettone portions; -Sprinkle some panettone pieces into the single dishes, and pour the cream over them; -Create a second layer of panettone, making a little “mound” and pour on the rest of the cream; -Cook in the oven at 180° for about 8 minutes.

FAVORINA

ALLINI

Classic Panettone

Prosecco Conegliano Valdobbiadene Superiore DOCG

Made with barn eggs

850g/ Price 3.39€ € 3.99/kg

0.75L/ Price 6.49€ € 8.65/l

Even though every effort has been made to ensure adequate supplies, this item may sell out quickly.

Prices do not include decorative material.

www.lidl.com.mt

T

he Krups Evidence bean to cup coffee machine is designed to produce flawless results down to the last detail that will delight coffee connoisseurs. With its elegant, timeless design and compact dimensions, this premium machine fits any kitchen, while 15 one-touch drinks make it easy to brew all your family`s favourites. Choose from seven black coffees, including rich espresso and intense ristretto.

There are also five white coffees, from a creamy cappuccino to a luxurious latte, plus three temperature settings for tea. Coffee are customisable, too: add an extra shot of espresso for a bolder flavour, use the dark setting for a more robust coffee. The machine has also the function to prepare two coffees at one go. The easy to use OLED display with touch controls puts full drink-making control at your fingertips. And underpinning every step is the Krups Quattro Force system, for barista quality grinding up to 20% faster, ultra-flat tamping for a uniform crema, perfect percolation for a full bodied flavour and automatic cleaning for easy maintenance and lasting performance. With its modern aesthetic and compact design, Krups Evidence will fit seamlessly in any kitchen.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

17

THE PERFECT GIFT THIS CHRISTMAS! Avail yourself from our wide range of TARI TARI Maltese delicacies, delivered from farmers and beautifully presented as hampers, gift packs or custom made to your requirements.

For further information please call us on 21 583 269, 79 252 339 or 79 261 490, e-mail us on msunripe@maltanet.net or else visit our shop.

Tari-Tari is a trademark of Malta Sunripe Co Ltd | St Peter Street | MÄĄarr | Malta (Please follow the signs from the main road leading to MÄĄarr Square) facebook.com/Malta.Sunripe

www.maltasunripe.com

DELICIOUS

December 2019

19

SENSITIVE STOMACH 20

December 2019

DELICIOUS

Treatment for a sensitive stomach

I

t is not a disease or a condition, a sensitive stomach can be described as a symptom due to some underlying cause. There are several conditions that could cause the stomach to become sensitive, which include problems that can affect the digestive system.

However, the most common causes of a sensitive stomach are not serious, these include following an unhealthy diet, smoking, drinking excessive amounts of alcohol or eating foods that do not agree with a person’s digestive system. Some people suffer from a sensitive stomach right from the time that they are born, whereas others may develop this problem later on in life. This condition is also very common in elderly people, as the consumption of certain medication could weaken the stomach, leading to a sensitive stomach. Stress is another factor that has been known to result in the stomach becoming sensitive in many people.

There are many people who tend to confuse a sensitive stomach with Irritable Bowel Syndrome (IBS), as the symptoms for both the conditions are similar.

Symptoms of a sensitive stomach: • Excessive gas • Bloating in the abdominal area • Pain and cramps in the stomach • Diarrhea or even constipation • Acidity or heartburn • Belching • Nausea • Wheezing These symptoms may be evident mainly when certain foods are consumed and the person may feel just fine during the other times.

There is no specific treatment to cure a sensitive stomach.

However, doctors may suggest certain medications to relieve some of the symptoms of the problem. Health experts may also recommend certain home remedies that can help strengthen the stomach. People who have a sensitive stomach should try to identify the food types and the foods that cause symptoms, so that they can be avoided. Hence, more than following a diet for sensitive stomach, it is important to make certain healthy dietary and lifestyle changes.

Tips to avoid indigestion for a sensitive stomach • Eat slowly; chew the food thoroughly.

• If you have a sensitive stomach, consume small meals at regular intervals. Avoid eating too much food at one time; especially avoid a heavy fatty meal at dinner time.

• Drink a lot of fluid in a day but avoid drinking too much fluid with your meals.

• Avoid lying down or sleeping immediately after your meals. Keep at least a minimum gap of 2 hours between your meal time and sleeping time.

• Include soluble fiber in your diet in the form of legumes, oatmeal, carrots, whole cereals and other whole fruits and vegetables.

• If particular food cause indigestion or belching or bloating or excessive gas then identify the triggers and avoid them. There are different foods that can cause indigestion, however, one food may cause no problem in a person but may cause indigestion in others.

• If you have any medical condition it is important to consult your doctor or clinical nutritionist/dietician before making any changes in your diet or taking medications.

DR. TEEBI is a Medical Consultant with special interest in Allergies and Allergy Therapy. He studied allergy medicine and graduated from the Imperial College London. info@allergyclinicmalta.com

DELICIOUS

December 2019

21

THEFACTOR NIKKEI

Interview with

MITSUHARU Tsumura,

A PASSION FOR PERFECTION 22

December 2019

DELICIOUS

A

genius, an innovator and a true ambassador of global food excellence. A passion for perfection, the painstaking care that goes into each detail, and a creative exploration of flavours are all hallmarks of Chef Mitsuharu Tsumura’s cuisine and its evolution. With his own personal style that has earned Maido a place on the list of the 50 Best Restaurants in the world and Latin America, Chef “Micha,” as he is affectionately known, continues to surprise guests and outdo his own self, all while remaining down to earth. A tireless chef, proud of his Nikkei heritage, who learned his trade in the United States and Japan before returning to Peru to do what he loves most, cook. Chef Micha shared with Delicious his interpretation of food, the secret behind the increasing interest in Latin American food and the meaning of Nikkei cuisine.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

23

How would you define food?

I see food as fun, bringing smiles to people. Our main objective is to make people happy. Nothing is more magical than that moment when you see someone putting your food in their mouth.

What are your views about Latin American cuisine?

The level of gastronomy in Latin America has grown so much in the last few years and there’s a new generation of cooks that have grown in Peru. That makes me smile because the future is so beautiful for our cuisine. The people are so capable, not just as cooks but also in understanding the importance of sustainability and social conscience. It’s time for all Latin Americans to look within their countries. We’re building a new cuisine.

You have often been vociferous on the need to help those throughout Latin America who are suffering from hunger.

We always say that Latin America is rich in terms of ingredients and mega-diversity but, as incredible as it seems, there is still so much malnutrition, so many people starving, and that simply can’t go on. We have to work on it as a continent, we have to develop new social initiatives. But as cooks, we can’t achieve this alone – we need the support of the public and private sectors to help the poorest and most needy regions of our continent.

What is the Nikkei cuisine?

If one analyzes the Peruvian cuisine and strives to understand it, and to understand as well why it has developed this much over the past decade, there are three very important factors. First, the Peruvian culture, the ancient civilization that we have had for thousands of years, which bears a gastronomic culture with techniques that still today continue to be used.

The biodiversity of the country: 75% of the world’s microclimates are present in Peru and that provides an amazing biodiversity. The third factor is the external influence that we have received from Europe, Spain, Italy, Africa, China and Japan. Anyone can tell that Peruvian cuisine has a lot of external influence, and especially from Japan.

If we had to provide a definition, we could say that it is a Peruvian style of cuisine with a Japanese influence. My father is from Japan, and my mother’s ancestors also were Japanese. Nikkei means exactly that: of Japanese descendance. Of course, my Nikkei cuisine is a result of the influence of my family background. However, in the early days of my career I did not have the clear intention of becoming a Nikkei chef. I just enjoyed cooking. Nevertheless, as time passed, and especially back in Peru after living abroad, I understood that my mission was to create a cuisine that could unite two countries: the one where I was born, and the one that is my heritage, the blood running through my veins.

24

December 2019

DELICIOUS

DELICIOUS

December 2019

25

吀椀洀攀 琀漀 戀攀 琀漀最攀琀栀攀爀℀ 䘀攀猀琀椀瘀攀 猀攀愀猀漀渀 愀琀 吀栀攀 䜀椀氀氀椀攀爀甀 刀攀猀琀愀甀爀愀渀琀 ㈀ ㄀㤀ⴀ㈀ ㈀ 䌀栀爀椀猀琀洀愀猀 䐀愀礀 䌀栀爀椀猀琀洀愀猀 䔀瘀攀 䰀甀渀挀栀 䈀甀昀昀攀琀 䄀 䰀愀 䌀愀爀琀攀 䐀椀渀渀攀爀 䐀䨀 䴀礀欀椀氀氀 ☀ 嘀椀漀氀椀渀 昀爀漀洀 ㈀ ⸀ 瀀洀

一攀眀 夀攀愀爀ᤠ猀 䔀瘀攀 匀攀琀 䐀椀渀渀攀爀 䄀搀甀氀琀猀 愀琀 갠 㔀㤀⸀㤀 䌀栀椀氀搀爀攀渀 ⠀ 㜀ⴀ㄀㈀⤀ 갠 ㌀ ⸀ 䤀渀挀氀甀搀攀猀 昀爀攀攀 昀氀漀眀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀猀Ⰰ 眀愀琀攀爀Ⰰ 樀甀椀挀攀猀Ⰰ 挀漀昀昀攀攀 愀渀搀 琀攀愀⸀

䄀搀甀氀琀猀 愀琀 갠 㔀㔀⸀ 䌀栀椀氀搀爀攀渀 ⠀ 㜀ⴀ㄀㈀⤀ 갠 ㈀ ⸀ 䤀渀挀氀甀搀攀猀 昀爀攀攀 昀氀漀眀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀猀Ⰰ 眀愀琀攀爀Ⰰ 樀甀椀挀攀猀Ⰰ 挀漀昀昀攀攀 愀渀搀 琀攀愀⸀

一攀眀 夀攀愀爀ᤠ猀 䐀愀礀 䰀甀渀挀栀 䈀甀昀昀攀琀 䄀搀甀氀琀猀 愀琀 갠 㘀㔀⸀ 䌀栀椀氀搀爀攀渀 ⠀ 㜀ⴀ㄀㈀⤀ 갠 ㌀ ⸀ 䤀渀挀氀甀搀攀猀 昀爀攀攀 昀氀漀眀 漀昀 眀椀渀攀猀Ⰰ 眀愀琀攀爀Ⰰ 樀甀椀挀攀猀Ⰰ 挀漀昀昀攀攀 愀渀搀 琀攀愀⸀

䐀䨀 䴀礀欀椀氀氀 ☀ 嘀椀漀氀椀渀Ⰰ 匀愀砀 瀀氀愀礀攀爀猀 昀爀漀洀 ㈀㄀⸀ 瀀洀

匀琀愀昀昀 倀愀爀琀椀攀猀Ⰰ 匀洀愀氀氀 䴀攀攀琀椀渀最猀 ☀ 䔀瘀攀渀琀猀 䘀漀爀 戀漀漀欀椀渀最 欀椀渀搀氀礀 挀漀渀琀愀挀琀 甀猀㨀 ⬀㌀㔀㘀 ㈀㈀㈀㘀㘀㈀

26

December 2019

䌀栀甀爀挀栀 匀焀甀愀爀攀Ⰰ 匀琀⸀ 倀愀甀氀猀 䈀愀礀 匀倀䈀 ㌀㈀㔀㘀Ⰰ 䴀愀氀琀愀 DELICIOUS

What makes Maido stand out of the crowd?

We focus on a cuisine that is new even for Peru – I mean, Nikkei cuisine is sort of a new thing in restaurants and in the local gastronomy scene, since it was mainly cooked in the houses of Japanese immigrants, it has always been a hearty cuisine. We have made it possible for Nikkei cuisine to become better known in the world by showing what it really was: not a Japanese cuisine, but a typical Peruvian cuisine that had its influences in Japanese gastronomy, mainly in techniques, but with local ingredients. Maido is my version of Nikkei cuisine, with a deep search for local produce from distinct regions of Peru – from the Amazon to the south. We make creative cuisine based on local ingredients, with a good balance between Japanese and Peruvian influences, that I usually say go so well together because they are completely different.

How does Japanese cuisine fit into your food?

Techniques. Mostly techniques. For example, techniques like curing with combo, fish with Peruvian sauces, using all the sushi techniques but giving Peruvian flavours. That is very strong in what we do – we do Peruvianstyle sushi a lot. That’s when the Chinese and Japanese influence comes.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

27

The restaurants at the DANISH VILLAGE have all been upgraded and the food is fantastic!

All located within the peaceful environment of the Mellieœa holiday centre where ample free parking is available.

The Hansen Gastro Bar is ideal for a casual meal.

Food is served from 11.00AM until late.

Open 7 days a week for breakfast and dinner. Serving a delicious à la Càrte menu.

Located on the terrace overlooking the

We also offer an all inclusive

picturesque Ghadira Bay is Winston Steakhouse

SATURDAY NIGHT AND

which offers an impressive seasonal menu. This

SUNDAY LUNCH BUFFET

is the perfect venue for an exclusive dining

at the very competitive

experience. Open from Thursday to Saturday

price of €27.50.

evening and Sunday Lunch.

For bookings please call us on 21575750 or email : greatdane@walshs.com.mt.

We offer a variety of options for functions over the Festive Season.

If you would like to discuss any event you might wish to organise contact John Zahra on 9988 7485.

GREAT DANE

4

CHEESE & SPINACH CANNELLONI WITH SMOKED GARLIC SAUCE

‘Paul Bajada Executive Head Chef Great Dane Restaurant, Mellieħa’.

INGREDIENTS:

METHOD:

2 sheets fresh pasta 200g local ricotta 100g fresh spinach 1 pinch nutmeg 1 tbsp fresh parsley 1 tbsp basil 2 egg yolks 150ml cream 150ml white wine 200g mirepoix 150ml chicken stock 100g smoked garlic 4 tbsp herb oil Pinch fresh herbs

■ For the cannelloni filling: In a bowl mix together the fresh ricotta, chopped spinach, egg yolks, the fresh herbs and nutmeg and mix until thoroughly combined and you have a smooth paste. Season well with salt and white pepper to your taste. On a clean surface open the fresh pasta dough and spread a thin layer of the cheese, spreading equally but leaving the end part free (1cm should be enough). Roll the tight pastry with cling film into a cigar shape. Put in the fridge and leave to rest for a couple of hours.

■ For the sauce: In a pot sweat the mirepoix until it starts to lightly caramelize. Add the white wine and reduce by half. Add the chicken stock and simmer until it reduces by half again. Strain the flavoured liquid into a clean pot and add the smoked garlic and bring to the boil. Add the cream and keep on cooking until it has reduced enough to your liking. Liquidize the sauce and season with salt and pepper. Keep on the side until needed.

Assemble: ■ In a bamboo steamer, steam the cannelloni for 20 minutes or until firm to the touch. Remove gently from the plastic wrap and portion to the size needed. Place the cannelloni in the centre of the serving bowls and put the hot smoked garlic sauce around. Drizzle with herb oil and sprinkle with fresh herbs.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

29

INGREDIENTS 600g beef fillet 1 sheet puff pastry 200g mushroom duxelle 100g chicken liver pâté 12 slices Parma ham 1 egg yolk 400g mashed potatoes 4pcs stuffed aubergine 200ml beef gravy 50g butter 200g fresh broccoli Salt & pepper Pinch fresh rosemary

30

December 2019

DELICIOUS

GREAT DANE

BEEF WELLINGTON WITH STUFFED AUBERGINE AND CREAMED POTATOES 4

METHOD: For the beef wellington: On a clean chopping board clean the beef fillet from any fat and silver skin. Season with salt, pepper and rosemary. Seal in a hot pan a minute on each side.

Remove from heat and leave to rest on a wire rack for a couple of minutes until it cools down completely. On a clean surface, spread the slices of Parma ham slightly overlapping and spread a thin layer of chicken liver paté equally. Repeat with the mushroom duxelle. Sit the fillet on the Parma ham, then roll it into a sausage shape.

Lay the rolled beef on the opened puff pastry sheet and

snugly wrap the pastry around the beef, pinching the ends to seal. Transfer the Wellington to a large baking tray lined with greaseproof paper, score the top of the pastry with a knife and brush with the egg yolk. Preheat oven at 180°C and bake for 30 minutes. Once cooked rest the Wellington for 5 minutes. Portion the Wellington into 4 equal slices and serve together with warm creamy mashed potatoes, baked aubergines stuffed with smoked aubergine purée, steamed broccoli and buttered beef gravy.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

31

The VEGAN WAY DEFINITELY WORTH THE DRIVE Interview with

32

&

CHRISTIAN Borg,

DANIEL Muscat,

Executive Chef at the Ramla Bay Resort

Head Pastry Chef at the Ramla Bay Resort

December 2019

DELICIOUS

Hampers 2019

ORDER ONLINE AT:

W

here do you go if you wish to experience a real, high quality full vegan food experience? The Ramla Bay Resort is certainly worth the drive up to Marfa, limits of Mellieœa. Cashew nut labneh, radish top vinaigrette, courgette ribbons and broad bean salad; variations of beetroot, seaweed oil mango and quinoa cracker; roasted eggplant, chickpeas and coconut curry, freshly baked focaccia bread; Gogi berry and orange bavarois, blueberry coulis, fruit leather are few of the specialities you will come across whilst dining at the Ramla Bay Resort. The place is a real heaven for all those looking for a vegan or vegetarian option.

piscopo.com.mt PAOLA

Antonio Piscopo Wines & Spirits 117, Triq Haz-Zabbar, Paola Tel: 2169 7074

ST. PAUL’S BAY

Piscopo’s Cash and Carry Triq l-Erba’ Mwiezeb, St Paul’s Bay Tel: 2157 0375 Opening hours for December are as follows: Monday to Saturday: Sundays & Public Holidays: 8:00 am to 7:00 pm 8:00 am - 12:00 pm

Email: sales@piscopo.com.mt

PISCOPO-HAMPERS-2019 Delicious Magazine – 24cm x 2 column.indd 1

DELICIOUS

21/11/2019 11:50

December 2019

33

The four star hotel has over the past years embraced the growing global plant-based movement and experiment with vegan products like tempeh or tofu as well as superfoods like spirulina or matcha. Indeed, veganism is on the increase both on a global and local level. More role models today are open about their vegan lifestyles and the reasons behind them, from actors including Natalie Portman and Emily Deschanel to musicians like Moby and Stevie Wonder. And a slew of recent documentaries including “What the Health” and “Dominion” are gaining wider audiences. While those who go vegan or vegetarian tend to do so for the animals, the planet, their health or some combination thereof, consumers start out choosing their foods based on different criteria.

The Ramla Bay Resort vegan menu is entrusted in the hands of two of Malta’s most talented chefs, Executive Chef Christian Borg and Head Pastry Chef Daniel Muscat.

Their curriculum is impressive with stints in major eateries in Malta and abroad. Their work is simply impressive and conveys their want to deliver something special, something different, something that clearly spells out the beauty of food. What impresses you most about Christian and Daniel is certainly their passion for anything related to the vegan and vegetarian world. Every item they create and launch is the product of constant research and experimentation. Their work is inspired through constant travels and new experiences from all over the world, all for the love of great vegan food, all for the love of offering their guests the best experience possible, with care and passion coming straight from the kitchen. The days and evenings are always busy there and a reservation is a must if you wish to have a great vegan dining experience at the Ramla Bay Resort. Today, the Ramla Bay Resort is the only place on the island that offers as full vegan and vegetarian buffet.

Although both chefs work closely together, their inspiration is derived from different sources. Chef Borg’s inspiration is more research based. “I love learning about new products and never hesitate to experiment. My inspiration comes from different situations. It could be that I had an argument and I need to relieve some stress or scrolling down on social media and see a plate which inspires me.” On the other hand, Chef Muscat’s muse is conglomeration of factors including the people around him, his staff and other ideas that crop up whilst working with key products.

34

December 2019

DELICIOUS

QUALITY NOT QUANTITY

DELICIOUS

December 2019

35

36

December 2019

DELICIOUS

However, the Ramla Bay Resort does not only offer vegan and vegetarian options. The place offers five different themed À La Carte restaurants varying from light snacks, to bistro style, to vegan/health oriented menus, two buffet restaurants serving breakfast, lunch and dinners as well as a coffee bar, a salad bar and a wine bar. Most of their products are prepared inhouse, irrespective of whether it is a simple samosa for a stand up-party, the smoking of pulled pork for a wrap, sausages for their snack menu, vegan cheese or a vegan and gluten free pie. Moreover, their desserts are often developed from scratch with real ingredients.

Both chefs also differ in style.

Chef Borg is a promoter of simple food where the main ingredients are given the merited respect. He loves comfort food and often seeks to find ways how to present traditional dishes in a more stylish or up to date version. Chef Muscat is more versatile. “I believe that in our profession one has to find new ways to re-inventing recipes, experimenting with new ingredients and improving all the time. While respecting traditional recipes I try to use all my knowledge and techniques to keep up to date with modern trends. I guess it comes natural to me after all these years in the business.” However both styles and characters fit perfectly together creating that unique blend which makes the Ramla Bay Resort stand out of the crowd. But there is more to what makes the place worth the drive up to Marfa. It is also about the passion and commitment that each person working in the Ramla Bay Resort kitchen has. It is also about the “Quality not Quantity” motto the hotel adheres to.

The Ramla Bay Resort is certainly the place to be during the Festive Season. Among the heavy pots and pans and strong scent of roasts, cinnamon, spice citrus, ginger and vanilla, the team is busy preparing for this special time of the year. The mood is high with Chef Muscat singing Christmas carols whilst Chef Borg is busy delivering the Christmas sermon. Chef Muscat points out; “We are extremely busy, yet it is still a festive and happy environment due to the mix of cultures in my team. Although we miss spending time with our loved ones we are rewarded with praises from our patrons.

This makes us forget all the stress and sacrifices we make.” The Festive Season activities at the Ramla Bay Resort kick start on the 13th December with their Vegan Buffet Lunch - Christmas Edition followed by their Lavish Buffet for Christmas Eve and Christmas Day and New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day. The events are a perfect occasion to taste specialities including pan seared monk fish wrapped in guanciale, sugar snap, toasted pumpkin seeds, curcuma velouté, home-smoked wild boar chops, sweet potato chunks, cranberry game jus, turkey, sweet leek and chestnut pie (available as Gluten Free) and cashew nut ricotta and spinach spanakopita (Vegan).

The cashew nut ricotta is made in-house. For all those who suffer from a sweet tooth, it will be hard to resist a bite or two from their selection of sweets that includes; baked cheesecake with goat cheese, gingerbread biscuits and prunes soaked in Armagnac, homemade kumquat jam which they prepare long time ahead for their special vegan chocolate cake, bacio cake with unusual flavours, poached pear in mulled wine and tonka bean chocolate mousse and their pistachio Rocher Bûche de Nö el.

The Ramla Bay Resort is indeed a place for all seasons. Their innovative menus together with their selection of vegan items makes it certainly your natural choice for any occasion you may have.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

37

COCONUT AND DRIED CRANBERRIES COOKIES Recipe by Head Pastry Chef Daniel Muscat

INGREDIENTS:

(ENOUGH FOR 35 COOKIES)

225g vegan butter 400g white sugar ½ tsp vanilla extract 1tbsp coconut syrup 1tsp bicarbonate of soda ¼ tsp salt 215g desiccated coconuts 125g chopped dried cranberries 1 lemon zest 315g all-purpose flour 8tbsp rice milk

METHOD: ■ Beat the butter and sugar until it is soft and fluffy. You will need to scrape the sides of the bowl and beat again several times.

■ Add the vanilla and coconut syrup and beat again until well combined.

■ Mix in the dry ingredients to the batter using a wooden spoon until a dough is formed making sure not to overwork it, as the mix will become elastic and will effect the texture of the final product.

■ Add in the rice milk and if you see that the better is too dry you can add more milk adding ½ tbsp at a time. Form the mix into sausage rolls, place on baking paper and chill for a few hours. The mixture can be done in advance and kept in the rifrigerator for up to 5 days or kept frozen until needed.

■ Pre-heat the oven to 180 degrees Celsius.

Cut the rolls into 35 uniform disks (approximately 40g each) and shape them into balls. Place them on a baking tray lined with baking paper and bake for 12 minutes in the centre of the oven.

■ Let them cool to become crispy and serve with your favourite hot beverage!

PORTOBELLO MUSHROOM STRUDEL Recipe by Executive Chef Christian Borg

INGREDIENTS:

(ENOUGH FOR 4)

4 pcs large portobello mushrooms (stalks trimmed and cleaned) 5 pcs medium red onions (peeled and finely chopped) 2 cloves garlic (peeled and sliced) olive oil 5 tbsp vegan Worcestershire sauce 1 tbsp sugar 300g baby spinach (picked and washed) 4 sprigs fresh thyme (picked and washed) 2 tbsp Dijon mustard 1-2pkts phyllo pastry (usually it is vegan but check the ingredients!)

Vegan egg wash 1tbsp aquafaba (water from tinned chickpeas) 1tbsp non-dairy milk (soy or rice milk are fine) 1tsp vegetable oil 1tsp maple or golden syrup

METHOD: ■ Sear the onions in a thick bottom pan with olive oil, season with salt and pepper and cook for approximately 15 – 20 minutes stirring occasionally until the onions are golden brown. Deglaze the pan with the Worcestershire sauce, add the sugar and let reduce on low heat until the mix is nice and sticky. Remove from the pan and leave to cool.

■ Pan fry the mushrooms top side down with olive oil and seasoning in a pan provided with a lid. Cook for approximately 5 minutes, turn over, add the thyme and the sliced garlic and fry until garlic is golden in colour. Add a splash of water or white wine, cover with the lid and continue cooking until mushrooms feel slightly soft to the touch. Remove the mushrooms from the pan and reduce the stock that oozed out of the mushrooms, add the baby spinach and cook until wilted.

Transfer the caramelised onions, spinach and mushrooms to the refrigerator and cool completely. It is best if you leave the mushrooms in a strainer to let the juices drain as this will help to get a crunchier pastry when baking.

■ Preheat the oven to 200 degrees Celsius. On a clean table top unroll the phyllo pastry and brush lightly with olive oil. Spread half the caramelised onions over one side of the pastry 10cm away from the edge. Top the onions with half the wilted spinach, spread the mushroom tops with Dijon mustard and placed them over the spinach. Top the mushrooms with the rest of the spinach and onions.

Very carefully roll the pastry over the top of the mushroom mixture until you have a log and keep rolling until you have used all the pastry sheet. Make sure that you have enough phyllo pastry to get five layers of pastry around your mixture and that the seam is facing the bottom. When ready, fold the edges under the rest of the strudel and place on a baking tray provided with baking paper or non-stick spray.

■ Make the vegan egg wash by whisking all of the ingredients together in a bowl.

Coat with the vegan egg wash and place in the oven for 30 to 35 minutes, or until golden and flaky. When ready serve immediately to enjoy the crunch of the pastry and the juiciness of the mushrooms!

DELICIOUS

December 2019

39

40

December 2019

DELICIOUS

Call us on 99651408 21220173 21243677/8

DELICIOUS

December 2019

41

JORDAN KAHN

presents Vespertine at the European Food Summit in Slovenia

by Ivan Brincat

42

December 2019

DELICIOUS

L

ike most people living in cities, Jordan Kahn, chef of Vespertine was driving around trying to avoid traffic when he spotted an empty building under construction.

“That’s what you do when you are in Los Angeles.” He decided to stop the car and looked at “this thing and it was very emotional.” He had no idea what triggered his desire to stop.

That evening, he finished work at his previous restaurant Red Medicine and after service, at around 3am, he went back to Culver City where today the restaurant is located.

Today, Vespertine, is considered by many as one of the most avant-garde restaurants in the world. It has won many accolades including ‘Atmosphere of the Year’ at the World Restaurant Awards in Paris last February.

VESPERTINE IS LIKE MY CREATIVE DUNGEON JORDAN KAHN “Service had finished at 2am so it must have been around 3am. I jumped over the construction fence, broke open the hinge of the plywood door and trespassed in this empty building. I did not fully know why I was there, I did not think this was the place for a restaurant but there was this gravity pulling me. I could not shake it away,” Jordan told Food and Wine Gazette.

“It feels amazing to get this recognition though it is also a bit bizarre because where I am from we are not super acclaimed. Maybe that’s not 100 per cent true because Jonathan Gold, the famous Los Angeles food critic, really supported the restaurant since it opened which was life changing for us. But almost no other food journalist in Los Angeles really supports us because we are considered too strange,” he said.

The young chef said he was privileged to work with Moss and his team and learn their methods and perspectives. “It was eye opening to say the least.”

After closing his restaurant Red Medicine, he went underground for a little and focused on this restaurant by creating a vacuum. “I was not on social media, I was not looking at what the new trends were, what other people were doing.”

“I went to Iceland deliberately so that I would not have access to the internet. There was nothing but me, my exgirlfriend and raw nature. It was nourishing for the soul.”

He returned (and trespassed) to that spot every day for the next five months. “Slowly all these participles started to metastasise into an idea. I was having these feelings and thoughts but I did not know what I was to do with them.”

I ask him whether he deliberately blocked himself from social media but he said: “I’m bad with social media. I go on Instagram two minutes a day to see whether a guest has complained but other than that I like quiet things. I am not a party guy, I don’t drink so I am a bit of an odd duck in that sense. For me, blocking myself from social media was not a difficult decision.”

Eventually, having taken the time to gestate and put his ideas together, he plucked up the courage to make a presentation and take it to the developer Frederic Smith who passed away earlier this year and to the architect of ‘The Waffle’ Eric Owen Moss.

“It made sense for me. I like to stay steeped in tranquility.

I did go to Iceland with my ex-girlfriend so I would not have any cell service. I went on the ring road around Iceland and there was nothing between me, my ex-girlfriend and raw nature. It was nourishing for the soul,” he said.

Jordan had a few meetings with the architect Eric Owen Moss without realising who he was really speaking with.

“Randomly, I met an architecture student and he told me he was working with Moss. He asked if I knew who he was and I told him I met him earlier this morning. It was like meeting Ferran Adria and not knowing who he was. Eric is a real genius up there with the world greats.”

A year and a half into working on the project, he realised that he was not just building a restaurant but a world and he needed things that he did not have. “J.R.R. Tolkien had to invent a language, culture. We had to create a version of that. I invited people who were big influences for me and who helped me become who I am even if they had nothing to do with restaurants or food. We worked with musicians,

DELICIOUS

December 2019

43

Jordan Kahn at the World Restaurant Awards where he won the Atmosphere of the Year award

with artists who made our garments. It became the nexus for the concept which is to experience the ritual of dining through all the other pieces. The whole experience causes you to feel in a certain way, even though we cannot control how you feel. What the experience does is very specific to you, to who you are dining with, to what is going on in your life,” he said.

He says that the experience is like an art installation.

“10 people might go and look at a painting. Three people will say I don’t get it and walk away, five people will see something but are maybe indifferent while two might stand there for an hour pondering about what they are seeing. The restaurant does a little bit of this. Some people are really impacted by it, sometimes I get messages and letters six months later. I think that to some degree this was what happened to Jonathan Gold. The experience ignited something in him.”

Jordan said that while he often gets to take the credit

44

December 2019

DELICIOUS

“honestly it is an aggregate of all the people who have been involved in the project including my team.”

The young chef does not know what the building was being built for before he took it over. “It was being built for something else. Eric said that it was going to be a conference centre, but honestly, no one knows what he means by that. It probably would have ended up being an office for a creative company or a gallery or maybe an executive office.”

I ask him how he managed to convince the developer and architect. “Actually this is my favourite part of the story.

They were really excited. I brought the idea to them and they were intrigued. I think that for Eric it was about the exercise of doing something that was different, that was not normal to what they normally did. He has designed lots of amazing buildings. The Waffle, as it is called, is one of 30 buildings in the neighbourhood that he has designed. Normally, once they finish a building, its done but in this case, he was able

to be get involved in designing everything from the furniture to the garden, the hanging table and the water feature. So for them, it was also really exciting.

tables are shaped, every single condition was unusual so we had to use unusual methods to solve them. The aggregate of all that is something that is unique,” he said.

The whole concept centres around collaboration, around bringing artists and the restaurant team together to create this unique experience.

So where does he see Vespertine in 5 years? “My idea, and I have started to work on it, is to constantly introduce new artists. We want to have new works, new mediums and see how this effects my work. We are working with a new set of musicians to work on another score. I am working with a new ceramicist to create some sculptural elements from natural clays that will have really cool visual contrast. The restaurant will still have continuity because our plates are made of the same material so there is the same language. My idea is to have different languages. Once we switch the soundtrack it will have a big impact because music has a synthesised reality. It will influence how we operate, the food will change. It will be cool.”

While Vespertine is a restaurant it acts more like an art installation. “It creates feelings in people. Depending on who you are, who you are with, what is going on in your life, it will cause you to feel in different ways. You might slip into the fold, get carried away, just drift through the experience. If you are there to analyse it, you might find that you will resist the experience. But if you want to let go, then there is very little resistance,” Jordan said. “Today, after the experience we have gathered since the restaurant opened we can fine tune the experience a bit better. If you do not want the experience that we want to give, you can still enjoy the fact that you are in a good restaurant with great food and great service.”

I ask him how important was it for him to think outside the box. “It is not outside my box. It is important to be sensitive and thoughtful and do what the current brings you, the influences that inspire you and allow to bleed into what you do. My food is inspired by film and music but not in a linear way. A dish might be inspired by a scene from Reservoir Dogs. But it is more of a feeling rather than factual evidence. I watch something and it will influence an idea that is directly linked to that. The ending of a film might inspire a dish but how the two are connected I have no idea. I just let it happen. It has always been my process.

I have been like this my whole life.” Jordan says Vespertine is the mechanism that allows him to take all the building blocks of his inspirations and insights and combine them into a craft. “So much of what we do as chefs is focused and disciplined on techniques but I was fortunate to develop these ideas that are so far removed from restaurants.”

One of his first guests was Andoni of Mugaritz. “He came to our 10th service which was incredible because as a kid, I was reading his book. People may say how unusual or unique Vespertine is but for me it is very cohesive. We did not use tradition or precedent or reference points. We did not use the status quo. We did not say we need to have this. Instead we started with one thing and we solved that equation which created another problem which we then solved and created another problem. What exists in the restaurant exists because it has to. Our equations were so unique that they required weird answers. The way that our

“I am constantly surrounded by works of people who have been great influences in my career. It is like I am in a creative bath every single day and it is constant.”

He is constantly jotting in his notebooks. As I sit in a hotel bar in Slovenia he shows me what he has jotted over the past few days which is nearly half a notebook. “I don’t have a process. I don’t recall who said it but I agree.

Nature is an infinite sphere where the centre is nowhere and the circumference is everywhere. I carry notebooks everywhere. I have hundreds of notebooks in the kitchen, in my office, in the prep-room. I have built a place that is like my creative dungeon. It is my work place. In the restaurant I am constantly surrounded by works of people who have been great influencers in my career. So when I am listening to a soundtrack, it would be by an artist who has played a big role in my creative process and this is happening in real time. I am in a creative bath every single day and it is constant. Creativity starts with whatever the hell it starts with. I sketch something that makes no sense, it could be an ingredient, a seasoning or an intention.”

So has he learned from his experience working with a great architect and his constraints? “I write the menu as one piece. Each individual dish is part of a narrative so I cannot just substitute a dish with another when an ingredient is no longer in season. The dish that replaces that dish might have to be completely different but what that dish emotionally represents for me needs to be the same.”

There’s only one thing left. To head to Los Angeles and experience Vespertine.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

45

IF YOU DO SOMETHING YOU LOVE, YOU WILL NEVER WORK A DAY IN YOUR LIFE

CHRISTOPHE HARDIQUEST in conversation with a 10-year-old What does a 10-yearold ask a chef? How does the conversation go? Most importantly, what can one learn from a conversation between a beginner, and someone who is on top of his game.

46

December 2019

DELICIOUS

For a school project, my 10-year-old son had to present to his class a topic related to food. It could have been anything from the food pyramid to wine making. He decided to choose to speak about the Michelin guide and top chefs.

Without any hesitation his decision was clear from the start.

Talk about following in someone’s footsteps. He asked me whether it would be possible to interview a chef as part of his project. Christophe Hardiquest, of Brussels, 2 Michelin star restaurant Bon Bon, kindly accepted.

On a late spring afternoon, we headed to the leafy Brussels commune Woluwe-Saint-Pierre to meet with the chef who has a 19.5 Gault & Millau score, the highest in Belgium together with Peter Goossens. And this time, I took the back seat as I sat behind the camera to record the conversation.

by Ivan Brincat

What follows is the conversation between Lukas and Christophe.

When did you start to cook and why?

I started cooking when I was around 12 with my grandmother. My grandmother had a house in the countryside and she had everything around her, from vegetables to pigs, to goats and chickens. There were lots of things.

My grandmother cooked from morning till evening. She cooked everything from jams to tarts, baking apples in the oven to prunes in vinegar, hams and black pudding. She would cook all day.

I started by giving her a helping hand, cutting the beans, preparing the jars where she would store the jams and chopping vegetables. That’s how it started.

You were quite young.

Cooking is something that comes naturally to you when you are young. It is not something that you should force.

Everyone likes to eat, everyone enjoys time in the kitchen. But you should do it if you like it. On the weekend, I cooked with my son and daughter but it is because they wanted to cook. Cooking is something you do on a daily basis at home.

Which was your most important star, the first or the second?

I think they are all important. The first was important because it means that you have been discovered and recognised for your work. The second confirms the work you’ve done in the previous years. The two are important.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

47

48

December 2019

DELICIOUS

When you receive awards, it is always a pleasure. Even though we don’t work for this, recognition in your work is important and this applies to whatever career you are in whether you are an architect, a film producer or a footballer. It helps the ego. But you need to keep the ego in check, you need to keep your feet on the ground, remain zen.

care, the lamb is excellent, the person who is making it has decided to make the best pita in Brussels. This is the spirit that you should have. I don’t think there should be any distinction between a Michelin starred restaurant, a bistro or a shop selling fries because once you’ve decided to do something really well, there should be no difference. The difference is the experience. In a gastronomic restaurant people come not just for the food but also for the experience. They come for the ambience, the service, the food, it is an experience that they will always remember. There are people who spend a lot of money to eat in a gastronomic restaurant and it is for the experience. It is something they will not forget. When you are eating fries, even if they are excellent, it is just for eating. That’s the difference.

How did you become good at cooking?

What is the most important in a kitchen?

You need to work relentlessly. You need to learn from others, you need to start from the principle that you never stop learning and you need to work hard. You should not count the hours when you are working to find the right taste, the right texture. It is about working hard. There are days when I work 16 hours without resting. This is because I am determined and this happens particularly when I want to achieve something but I find I am not necessarily succeeding.

For me it is passion. The passion for produce, the passion for your suppliers, the passion of colleagues, clients.

This is extremely important.

This is impressive. 16 hours is a long time It is impressive. Sometimes you have to do it. I prefer to do this and be happy in my job than work 8 hours and not be happy. When I am working it does not feel like work.

They say choose something you love to do and you will never work a day in your life. Remember this.

What is the difference between a gastronomic restaurant and a normal restaurant?

In my opinion, whether you are working in a snack bar or in a three Michelin star restaurant the most important thing is to do what you do well. You can go and eat a pita and it is amazing because the bread is chosen with

How do you create your new dishes?

There are different approaches. For example, when I recreate old Belgian dishes, I am inspired by old but popular recipes which I make contemporary. Otherwise it is the produce which inspires me. I can try to make a lot of experiments. I start to reflect, test textures and will not stop until it is perfect. Sometimes, if I am not happy I may not work on something for six months and then come back to it. There are no rules to create something. Sometimes you can create something in half a day, other times it might take six months. You need to accept the game. If we are thinking about something we might not be at our creative best. But I am always thinking about cooking, even during holidays, this is my obsession, my passion. I ask questions and work until the creation is ready.

What things do you like to cook?

I love vegetables. But I love everything particularly humble produce like sardines.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

49

50

December 2019

DELICIOUS

DELICIOUS

December 2019

51

A

SICILIAN

TERROIR

Interview with

DAVIDE Guidara, Chef at SUM

52

December 2019

DELICIOUS

T

wenty five years old and with an impressive curriculum which includes

the likes of; Nino Di Costanzo, Alfonso Iaccarino, Michel Bras and René Redzepi, Davide Guidara is considered to be the enfant prodige of Sicilian gastronomy. Chef Guidara has recently took his culinary journey to the next level by opening his own restaurant called “Sum”, “I am” in Latin, at the Romano Palace Luxury Hotel, a five-star luxury hotel in Catania. Chef Guidara shared with Delicious his passion for food, the concept behind what he defines as SICULO terroir and what to expect when dining at Sum.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

53

54

December 2019

DELICIOUS

What attracted you to the world of food?

I was always attracted to the possibility of being able to create and push myself ever further with studies and experiments.

Food critics have often defined you as l’enfant prodige of Sicilian gastronomy. To what do you attribute such a prestigious title?

I think I developed a Sicilian terroir, that is focusing on products. With the minus sign of subtraction, cleanliness and direct flavours. I call it a kitchen “for the product” instead of “product”, as is usually used. I studied umami, remaining focused on the territory: an almost primordial essence of Sicily, I love to call it SICULO terroir. I like to think that the Mediterranean is assimilating a new contamination, by a generation of cooks who has traveled and is now in a position to influence traditions with new techniques and flavours. Asians and others, as our garum is a close relative of their fermented fish sauces

Is there any person in the industry you look up to?

I try to avoid as much as possible to see the “great chefs” I try to let myself be influenced as little as possible by other styles.

Tell us about your “umami” menu.

The way is not to add, but to remove: To work by subtraction of the elements and by concentration of the aroma, to exalt it to the unimaginable I have undertaken a work of subtraction. At SUM we eliminate all types of dogma to focus only on flavour.

Can you share with us the secrets behind your famous dessert “seltz”?

There are no secrets, the dessert starts from the idea of ​​the classic “seltz salt and lemon” served with a digestive and refreshing drink in the Catania kiosks. The important thing is to balance the acidity of the lemon and the salt well.

How would you describe your style?

Guy Fleri once noted; “Cooking is all about people.

Food is maybe the only universal thing that really has the power to bring everyone together. No matter what culture, everywhere around the world, people get together to eat.” To what extent do you agree?

First of all, taste, flavours. The restaurant is called Sum - “sono”, in Latin - but the protagonist must not be my ego, but the product, which is manipulated, of course: but with individual focus. Each dish has a protagonist who undergoes various processes and remains at the center of the scene. We try to push it to very high levels of umami.

Totally in agreement, all the people of the world eat, and it is a “ritual” that is always done in the company, moreover all the most beautiful events of life are celebrated at the table because food is culture, contamination, it is sharing. It is true that cooking is centered on people, I believe that the customer is at the center of every algorithm of an excellent restaurant.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

55

56

December 2019

DELICIOUS

In what way does the Festive Season fit into your kitchen?

Is there any dish you would associate with this time of the year?

Honestly not very much, it takes a lot of time for the various experiments and tests to get through a paper from SUM, so we can’t conceive a menu linked to Festive Season.

Given that in this period they prefer hot things and it is traditional to eat lentils in New Year’s Eve, I would propose “Ustica and Cozze lentils”. They are lentils cooked in a concentrated veal broth and served with a cream of mussels, capers and tomato.

Any upcoming projects in the pipeline?

Improve, improve, improve.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

57

MUNCHIES

PAPPARDELLE with pear and Roquefort cheese

INGREDIENTS: 300g fresh pappardelle 100g pears 100g Roquefort cheese 20g olive oil 30g walnuts 10g pink pepper corns 50ml fresh cream

METHOD: Sauce: ■ Chop the pears and sauté with olive oil, walnuts and pepper corns. Add Roquefort cheese. Boil the fresh pasta for 5 minutes, drain and toss with the above-mentioned sauce for 2 minutes. Finish with a touch of fresh cream.

58

December 2019

DELICIOUS

2

MUNCHIES

DUCK

and mango salad INGREDIENTS: 350g duck breast 1 whole mango 1 whole Chinese cabbage 8 leaves of fresh mint 4 spring onions 100g pea shoots 30g peanuts 2tsp lime juice 2tsp sesame seed oil 1tsp fish sauce

METHOD: â– Cook the duck breast in a frying pan, skin down to your liking (recommended medium). Set aside.

Shred the Chinese cabbage, chop the spring onions and mint leaves.

Toss with the peanuts, pea shoots and mango.

Add the fried and sliced duck breast, drizzle with lime juice, sesame seed oil, fish sauce and serve.

60

December 2019

DELICIOUS

2

DELICIOUS

December 2019

61

62

December 2019

DELICIOUS

SERGIO HERMAN

by Food and Wine Gazette

F

ollowing the success of The Jane, which he owns together with chef Nick Bril, the talented Dutch chef has set his sights on a new concept in Antwerp, blending the terroir of his home region Zeeland with Italian flair.

Le Pristine will open its doors in the fashion heart of the Belgian city at Lange Gasthuisstraat 13. It is likely to have a similar concept to the highly successful AIRrepublic in Cadzand.

Sergio Herman will open Le Pristine restaurant and Le Pristine café in April 2020 though the date has not yet been announced. He said that the new restaurant and café will be focused on the local terroir but will be internationally inspired.

The name Le Pristine comes from the English word ’Pris-

will open a second restaurant in Antwerp, Le Pristine, in April 2020.

tine’ which means pure and unspoiled.

The restaurant will take reservations and walk-ins while the Café will welcome just walk-ins and is aimed at being ideal for a short stop while shopping in the neighbourhood.

The date of the opening, the menu and the composition of the team at Le Pristine will be announced at a later stage.

Sergio Herman grew up in the kitchen of family restaurant Oud Sluis *** in Sluis, Zeeland, where he cooked for twenty-five years. In 2013 he closed the doors so that he could focus on new projects. Sergio now has four restaurants: The Jane ** in Antwerp, Pure C **, AIRrepublic * and Blueness in Cadzand. He is also co-founder and responsible for the French fries concept Frites Atelier which has branches in the Netherlands and Belgium. He has also published several cookbooks.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

63

&

Wines

BLENDED AND SINGLE MALT WHISKIES

Spirits

To fully appreciate the vast world of blended scotch whisky, it’s helpful to understand the distinction between single malt and blended whiskey.

Consumers and even some bartenders have a misconception that single-malt Scotch is not a blended whisky, but this is a myth. Single-malt scotch is a blend, but it’s a very specific type of blend. In fact, nearly all whiskies on the market today are blends The confusion arises from the misunderstanding of two words—blend and single—words whose seeming simplicity mask a more complicated reality.

For most people, their first encounter with Scotch whisky involves a blend – but then about 90% of the market is made up of products which combine malt and grain spirit. Blended Scotch is the beating heart of the industry, and its rich variety of blends continues to find new admirers.

64

December 2019

DELICIOUS

Prop. Stanley Cauchi

What Is a Whisky Blend?

What we need to do here is to establish that there are two different

to this statement is if it is a single barrel whisky — the whisky coming

ways to use the word blend—an informal way and a formal, or legal,

from one cask (barrel, hogshead, sherry butt, port pipe, etc.) — then it

way. Informally, a blend is a mixture—in this case, a mixture of two or

is not a blend.

more whiskies that are bottled and sold as one whisky. Formally, however, a blended whisky is a product that contains a mix of barrel-aged malt and grain whiskies.

There are other types of blended whisky namely: Blended malt scotch whisky: Formerly called vatted malts, these are a blend of single malts from two or more distilleries.

Blended grain scotch whisky: A blend of single grains from two or more distilleries. Single grains are usually known for being light and mild, but some distilleries produce exceptional grain whiskies.

Blended scotch whisky: What many consumers think of when they hear the word blend, blended scotches comprise 90% of the scotch category in sales. A blended scotch is a mix of both malt whiskies and grain whiskies, sourced from several different distilleries.

As regards single Malt, there’s a common misconception that because a certain whisky is labeled “single malt,” it must be the product of just a single batch or barrel of whisky. This is incorrect. Most single malts, are a blend, in the sense that they’re a mixture of whiskies.

The age of a single malt is often its major selling point, but when you go back to the subject of vatting, it becomes clear that different aged barrels of whiskey are being married together to form one single malt.

Distillers will use the minimum age of the youngest whiskey to be added during vatting. So while you think you are drinking a 12 year old scotch, the truth is, it may be considerably older. The amount of each barrel used does not affect the “age” of the single malt at all. So long as there are trace amounts of 12 year old alcohol being added, it becomes a 12 year old spirit.

Most single malt connoisseurs will admit that it was image that first drew them to the spirit, and taste that kept them there. There is no denying that single malts have a distinct robust flavour that is meant to be savoured, not downed and chased. For some this is an acquired taste, building slowly by drinking only high quality single malts with nothing more than a splash of water.

The coveted reputation of single malts should not deter you from blended whiskies. While it may not seem as refined or sophisticated, blended whiskey can be just as smooth and rich in flavour. It is also

A “Single Malt Scotch Whisky” must be made exclusively from malt-

more diverse, making it easier to find a brand that makes drinking whis-

ed barley (although the addition of caramel colouring is allowed), must

key pleasurable for you. Higher quality blended whiskies can even be

be distilled using pot stills at a single distillery, and must be aged for at

savored as a single ingredient in a drink, the same way that single malts

least three years in oak casks of a capacity not exceeding 700 litres. The

are meant to be served.

regulations of other countries may allow malted rye.

Single malt whiskies are the result of many barrels blended to create a whisky. They just happen to come from a single distillery. An exception

For a variety selection of single malts you can visit our website at www.ilbettija.com.mt or visit our store at Il-Bettija Wines & Spirits, triq Guze` Duca, Qormi. Tel: 21490110/79390110

28, Triq Guze` Duca, Qormi. Qrm9088, Malta w. www.ilbettija.com.mt - e. info@ilbettija.com.mt - t. 2149 0110 - m. 7939 0110

DELICIOUS

December 2019

65

66

December 2019

DELICIOUS

Great Expectations at

MANOUCHE Review on Manouche Craft Bakery & Bistro

E

veryone at Manouche is busy with Christmas preparations. The kitchen is packed with all sorts of ingredients to prepare for this time of the year.

The smell of cinnamon blending with other spices and brandy embraces each client into the Festive Season mood. Every corner of that grand kitchen is jam-packed with pots and pans, all full of different sweet and salty recipes ready to be baked and displayed to tease the inquisitive eye of every passer by. The place is indeed a chorus of aromas which perfectly fit together with the Christmas melody in the background.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

67

68

December 2019

DELICIOUS

The displays are a pleasure to the eye with a vast selection of sweet delicacies to choose from. Éclairs, giant macarons, choix bombe classic and chocolate delights are the order of the day. Yet, during the Festive season, there is more to look out for at Manouche. Christmas cakes, Christmas puddings, milk chocolate cookies, gingerbread men, classic shortbread, milk chocolate truffles and dark chocolate truffles are just a few items available at the outlet during this time of the year. And what about their latest addition to their sweet list? The Gingerbread Cronut! It is simply divine! The way the spicy taste of ginger blends with the dough and icing on top is incredible. All these delicacies can be shared with your loved ones at the shop over a coffee or at home.

The Festive Season is also the perfect time to taste Manouche’s famous selection of chocolates. The choice is impressive and tempting. Every piece is made from the finest chocolate sourced from all over the world.

Manouche’s chocolate counter includes fruit and nut bars (which people generally associate with the Cadbury fruit and nut bar), honeycomb, the coconut bar and the Tronky bar. Presented in a stunning display of colourful artistic design, the Manouche choco-

late counter is an expression of the skills of our chocolatiers that wows its viewers. The selection also seeks to evoke childhood memories in each and one of us. And what about Manouche’s pralines? They are certainly worth a try in the various flavours available including; mint, pistachio, Maltese honey, raspberry and gianduia.

Yet Manouche is not only about sweets and pastry. The place is also an ideal for breakfast, a meal or a light snack. This year, Manouche has prepared a great early Christmas breakfast which is certainly worth a try.

Eggs Benedict, eggs Norwegian, eggs Florentine, 3 eggs chive omelette are some of the items you will come across during the lavish breakfast prepared by Manouche. And don’t forget the famous Manouche breakfast plate which includes Lincolnshire sausages, back bacon, roast potatoes and mushrooms among others.

The Festive Season is certainly a great time to pay a visit to Manouche. Whilst driving up from Spinola Bay and heading towards the Ta’ Giorni tunnels, make sure to stop by at Manouche for a quick treat or that sweet treat you wish to entertain your loved ones with.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

69

A Culinary Experience Review on

D

OLIVE BISTRO

riving down from St Paul’s Bay towards Xemxija, you must make sure not to miss out on a small eatery on the right hand side of the road with the name of Olive. The place has that feel only a traditional Maltese home will offer with an embassies on soft fresh colours which offer the place a distinct vibrant look. Natural stone is complemented with mustard, white, blue and shades of brown. Every colour is complementary and sets the perfect backdrop for amazing dishes. Notwithstanding its traditional look the place also boasts a contemporary kick which is visible in the style of wood selected and in the specific decor present in the restaurant.

70

December 2019

DELICIOUS

The place offers a vast selection of fresh food which bring together a little bit of all corners of the Mediterranean region. Chicken liver paté, sweet potato and gorgonzola tart and local prawn, are a few starters you will come across at Olive. The selection of pasta is also impressive including agnolotti del plin with beef, truffle, sage and parmesan and tagliolini with prawn bisque, tuna bottarga and nasturtium. The main course selection is also impressive with items including rabbit, duck breast and soy braised short ribs. For all those who suffer from a sweet tooth, the place offers an interesting selection that includes champagne and passion fruit bavarois and iced banana parfait.

The author of this interesting concept is Ryan Gialanze who certainly needs no introduction. Ryan is young, bold and energetic. His eyes reflect a strong will to succeed in such a cutthroat industry. On the other hand his smile spells out his bubbly character and joie de vivre. Behind that outer crust of a calm person, lies a strong, focused and very determined person with such a colourful mind packed with concepts that blow your mind. His philosophy is so avant-garde and his work is a statement. Young, ambitious, talented and regarded by many as one of the best talents in the local culinary scene. His baggage of experience in the food industry is impressive boasting stints in several leading eateries in Malta and abroad including, The Grand Jersey Hotel & Spa at the Tassilli restaurant. He also worked with some big names in the industry including Michael Wignall, Gary Rhodes, Martin Blunos and Richard Allen.

Food is more than just a profession for him. It is his muse, his passion and his source of expressing his talent.

Ryan notes that from a very young age, he was attracted to the concept of creating new products with raw materials.

From a very young age, he spent hours watching his food heroes on popular TV shows. He adds that it was at that specific point in time that the kitchen was the place he could express his talent. Chef Gialanze points out that he is often asked “What does food mean to you?” to which he struggles to provide a quick answer. “Notwithstanding

many might define such question as a cliché which calls for the stereotype answer, to me it evokes thousands of memories and experiences which are hard to explain in a few words. I have often noted to my close circle that I was born in a kitchen and will die in a kitchen. My friends have often only looked at the humorist side of such statement yet very few have understood that dose of truth it hides. Truly so, food is my world. It is tightly knit to my work, my family and my life.” I ask Ryan what lies behind the marriage of so many concepts in one menu to which he promptly notes that for better or for worse, the world of food has drastically changed over the past decades.

Distance is no longer a limitation and technology has brought new culinary realities closer to our home. “Whilst travelling for business or with my family, I note that the traditional culinary map has changed offering fine dining experiences beyond Florence, Paris and London. The culinary world has opened up to new culinary realities in South East Asia, South America and even the Sub Sahara.

Each region offers new ingredients, new recipes and new methods of cooking which I am gradually introducing in our menu.”

He insists that the menu is not big so as to ensure genuine, fresh and seasonal dishes. Each with a touch here and there which ensures Olive stands out of the crowd. Every dish is paired with a good selection of beers, wines and other beverages. The menu changes regularly so as to maximise the fresh products available. The menu will certainly change for the Festive Season. The Christmas Day menu is simply amazing with a selection of Amusebouche, starters, main course and sweets which will make this Christmas worth to remember. On the other hand, the New Year’s Eve menu is just impressive. Booking at Olive is a must and not an option.

Olive is the new bistro in town which is worth a try.

Notwithstanding its relatively young age, the outlet has already gained a reputation as one of the best eateries on the island. As Ryan notes; “This is indeed an exciting moment both for me and the outlet. I feel the best is yet to come. We are in for very exciting times”

DELICIOUS

December 2019

71

NEW YEAR’S EVE MENU

CHRISTMAS LUNCH MENU

AMUSE Baby Pea Velouté Smoked Ham Hock–Black Truffle–Isle of Mull Cheddar Soldiers

AMUSE BOUCHE Cauliflower and Truffle Soup Isle Of Mull Cheddar Soldiers

STARTERS Chicken and Guanciale Ballotine Nduja–Spinach-Soy Beans-Shimeji Mushrooms OR Prawn and Asparagus Ravioli Bisque-Cured Egg Yolk-Bottarga MAIN COURSE Pressed Lamb Belly Gratin Dauphinoise-Braised Carrot-Kale Pesto OR USDA Corn Fed Striploin Celeriac Fondant-Truffle Mash Potato-Broccoli Sprouting’s OR Fillet of Meagre Lentils-Cauliflower-Pickled Vegetables DESSERTS Caramelised Apples Cinnamon and Ginger Bread–Salted Caramel OR Chocolate and Raspberry Mousse Pistachio Textures Tea and Coffee Glass of Cava at midnight (36 months on the Lees)

STARTERS Prawn Carpaccio Squid Ink Cracker-Home Made Harissa-Comfit Tomato OR Capelletti Rabbit Ragu-Nduja Butter –Peas OR Sweet Potato and Gorgonzola Dolce Tart Pesto-Mustard Frills-Pumpkin Seeds MAIN COURSE Seabass Paupiette Mussel Chowder-Crispy Kale OR Braised Beef Rib Celeriac Puree-Celeriac Fondant- Soy Jus OR Risotto Porcini-Spinach-Linseed Cracker DESSERTS White Chocolate and Hazelnut Fondant Cherry Yogurt Ice -Cream OR Apple and Cinnamon Cheesecake Vanilla Ice-Cream All Main Courses are served with Traditional Roast Potatoes

¢65 Tea and Coffee ¢50

72

December 2019

DELICIOUS

TRADITIONAL MALTESE

PASTIZZI

CALL US ON

2180 2203 A 19a, Industrial Estate, Marsa MRS3000

DELICIOUS

December 2019

73

SHELLFISH SAFFRON SOUP 74

December 2019

DELICIOUS

AZZOPARDI FISHERIES

6

Prepare the fish stock in advance with fish bones, onion, peppercorns, garlic, celery and carrot. In a large saucepan cook all the ingredients in 1.5 litres of water and 500ml white wine. You can also add parsley stalks, 2 sprigs of thyme and 1 bay leaf tied with string. Bring to the boil, reduce the heat to a simmer, then cook for 20 minutes, skimming when needed. Pass through a sieve and let it rest for 30 minutes.

INGREDIENTS: 50ml good quality vegetable or olive oil 200g onions 100g leeks 100g diced carrots 30g garlic 100g diced fennel 2ltr fish stock 400g mixed shellfish - shell off 200g diced white fish – Çerna, Dott or Perch 4pc King Prawns 12pc fresh Mussels shell on 16pc Clams or Vongole shell on 100ml fresh cream 10g saffron powder or saffron threads Sea salt Freshly ground black pepper

METHOD: ■ Heat the oil in a large saucepan and saute the vegetables and garlic. Cook until softened and light in colour, about 12 minutes, then add the shellfish, diced white fish and the king prawns.

Add in the fish stock and simmer for 5 minutes.

Add in the mussels and clams shell on, pour in the cream, the saffron and simmer for another four minutes. Season to adjust taste.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

75

76

December 2019

DELICIOUS

AZZOPARDI FISHERIES

AWRATA – SEA BREAM, SERVED WITH PRAWN SAUCE 2

INGREDIENTS: Awrata Fillets – select a medium sized awrata aproximate 450gr 20g garlic (minced) optional Maldon Seasalt – to taste 30ml olive oil

METHOD: ■ Gently rub the fillets with olive oil, garlic, crushed seasalt and freshly ground black pepper. Cook under a hot oven grill for 5 to 7 minutes.

Prawn Sauce: 200g local small prawns peeled 30g leeks 10g garlic 30ml white wine 10g tomato paste 100ml fish stock Method: ■ Drizzle some olive oil in a frying pan, stir fry the prawns, leeks and garlic until softened but not browned. Add the tomato paste and mix well, add in the white wine and let it simmer until liquid is reduced by half. Add 100ml fish stock or water and cook for a further 5 minutes. Season with salt and pepper to your liking. Blend mixture in a food processor or liquidiser and adjust consistency with stock or cream.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

77

All you need is convenience theconvenienceshop.com OPEN DAILY INCLUDING SUNDAYS & PUBLIC HOLIDAYS Balzan • Birkirkara • Bormla • Buġibba • Burmarrad • Fleur De Lys • Floriana • Fgura • Għargħur • Għajn Dwieli • Għaxaq • Gudja Gwardamangia • Gżira • Ibraġ • Luqa • Marsaskala • Mosta • Mqabba • Mrieħel • Msida • Naxxar • Paola • Qawra • Qormi • Rabat • Safi San Ġwann • Siggiewi • Sta. Lucia • Sta. Venera • Sliema • Swieqi • Ta’ Xbiex • Tarxien • Xemxija • Żabbar • Żebbug • Żejtun • Żurrieq 78

December 2019

DELICIOUS

MR. ANDREW ATTARD

- CHIEF OPERATING OFFICER

How would you assess the past decade?

I would describe it as an exciting period of intense yet sustained growth. When we opened our first shop 10 years ago, we saw quite quickly that more and more people were seeking outlets that fitted in with a more hectic lifestyle and they started to service this market by opening more stores in various towns and villages around Malta.

The concept caught on and the Convenience Shop as retained the same formula: operating as a family-run business focused on delivering a special customer-experience while retaining a local feel. All our stores have a traditional look, such as wooden shelving, but are presented in a way that captures shoppers’ emotions. That’s what makes us stand out.

To what do you attribute your success on the local market?

It’s encapsulated in our brand name: convenience, coupled of course, with quality and flexibility. Changing demographics and the socioeconomic environment, particularly the expansion of the expat and tourist sectors, have also played a part. We are not competing with the traditional supermarket model, because the vast majority of our shoppers don’t want to spend much time in a store.

In fact we complement supermarkets. Our objective is to meet customer expectations in a 5 to 10 minute period.

The key to achieving this is to ensure that each Convenience Shop is stocked with an adequate range of items and tailoring the contents to each locality. One-size-fits-all doesn’t work for us. We are focused on the specific needs of our customers.

What was the major turning point for The Convenience Shop during the past ten years?

Primarily the vision of the Directors to expand the concept throughout the island. It mapped out a plan to take the Convenience Group to where it is today, with 71 outlets under its umbrella as either fully-operated stores or

franchises. Our outlets are now present in almost all Maltese towns and villages.

What role has Human Resources played in the success of The Convenience Shop?

HR plays a vital role. The Convenience Group places significant emphasis on human resources – we already have 750 staff on its books – and we are well aware the company wouldn’t have gotten anywhere without them.

We consciously operate an equal opportunities policy that has at our heart diversity and inclusion. We do not just offer a job, but a career and offer training to our people in customer care, merchandising and food preparation.

Several staff started off as stackers and have made it to management positions, so the opportunities are there.

Corporate social responsibility plays an integral part of the Group’s philosophy. We opened a Convenience Shop for Puttinu Cares Foundation in Qormi through which all profits from the operations of this outlet goes to the Puttinu Cares Foundation, which offers support to cancer patients and their families.

We want to play an active role in the community and this initiative is just one way of giving something back. We will provide support for good causes wherever we can, we believe in sharing and support towards the community. In this regard, we are delighted that this year’s Worker of the Year award went to our director Ivan Calleja who put so much hard work into this project.

What are the company’s plans for the future? Is there any vision to expand the chain beyond our shores?

The current business model is based on a 60/40 split of fully-operated stores and franchisees who see the benefits of being part of a successful modern brand. Our strategy is to continue to grow by identifying new localities, without cannibalising volumes with the aim of retaining all the good elements that have made us popular with customers.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

79

80

December 2019

DELICIOUS

G

ood food is all the better when shared with friends and family, so grab your loved ones and book a table at Grana this festive season.

Our team is ready to serve up some seriously tasty food in family friendly ambiance. Our Chef de Cuisine, Wyatt Zammit, has prepared some specials on Christmas and New Year lunches and dinners which will complete our already delightful à la carte menu. Our Italian flair allows us to incorporate a modern twist to traditional Italian recipes, bringing food to life! Whether you’re a meat-eater or a devoted vegetarian, Grana will accommodate your preference with super juicy meat dishes through to creative, tasty vegetarian dishes, open for all! Don’t forget about the delicious selection of desserts perfect for anyone with a sweet tooth looking for their next best dish to divulge in.

With a family friendly ethos, Grana welcomes any generation from the kids to the grandparents to experience a unique dining journey.

The kids can tuck into pasta and pizza dishes perfectly sized for them whilst the grown-ups enjoy the finer food in life. It’s not just the ingredients that make a good dish, the chefs at Grana have the experience and creativity to build a specially crafted menu for their esteemed guests meaning each dish is made with perfection because there’s nothing better than a good-looking dish to accompany the delicious taste. Open 7 days a week from 12.30 onwards, Grana offers lunch and dinner meaning you’ll always have somewhere great to go to enjoy a wonderful meal with friends, family or work colleagues.

Everyone is made to feel completely comfortable and will definitely find something tasty on the menu to satisfy their taste buds. No matter your diet, appetite or table size, Grana will accommodate it all!

DELICIOUS

December 2019

81

82

December 2019

DELICIOUS

DELICIOUS

December 2019

83

CHRISTMAS AT ALI BABA C

hristmas is a special time at Ali Baba. It is that time of the year when Chef Hany entertains his

clients with amazing dishes which fit perfectly with this time of the year. In-

deed, Hany has that incredible talent to combine Lebanese food elements with local produce. Every dish though has that unique twist which only he has the ability to give such as his modern version of Shaabiyat. Hany shared with us what Ali Baba looks like during this time of the year, the specialities to expect during the Festive Season and his plans for next year.

84

December 2019

DELICIOUS

What does Ali Baba look like during the Festive Season?

Ali Baba looks like a home where guests are entertained in a cozy ambience and moderate Christmas decorations.

Any specialities one should look out for during this time of the year?

During this time of the year Ali Baba offers its guests a vast variety of meat and offal dishes such as oven braised lamb, lamb liver, ox tails, ox hearts and a lot of seasonal vegetables.

Tell us about your modern version of Shaabiyat.

Shaabiyat is a dessert made out of filo pastry parcels filled with rosewater cream, oven baked and smothered in rosewater sugar syrup. My version of Shaabiyat consists of backed layers of filo, rosewater cream with cardamom and drizzled rosewater syrup and crushed pistachios.

What makes Ali Baba the place to be during this time of the year?

I would say the food and the atmosphere we offer to our guests.

Any projects in the pipeline for 2020?

We are opening a second outlet with the name, BABA. BABA, a Lebanese take away concept with delivery service. The outlet is a few doors up from Ali Baba and we will be serving typical Lebanese street food. The outlet will open around February/March next year.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

85

86

December 2019

DELICIOUS

DELICIOUS

December 2019

87

FOOD

THE BEST MEDICINE FOR THE SOUL

88

December 2019

DELICIOUS

What does the festive season at the Fearne family look like from a food point of view?

Christmas at the Fearne household is a time where we all come together as a family and make the most of the festive season. I enjoy cooking when I have the time and Christmas is no exception. Every

Chris Fearne Deputy Prime Minister Minister for Health

year we try to each contribute to the preparations, cooking and decorating and the result is a hearty, delicious fusion of meals.

What speciality will never be left out of any Fearne festive season meal?

That would definitely be

my signature

dish, lasagne, which is a combination of my mum’s and my grandma’s recipe.

How do you balance a healthy lifestyle and overeating during this time of year?

My gym schedule does not change during the festive season. I make time for the gym every day and this allows me to enjoy the festivities without feeling too bad about it.

I try to stick to healthier options as much as possible.

Do you have any guilty pleasure?

Warm Christmas pudding soaked in brandy and topped with custard.

Any food related childhood memories you associate with this time of year?

My mum’s fruity Christmas cake which in reality is more fruit and little cake.

Any New Year resolutions?

I’m not a fan of resolutions as I believe life always throws a curveball which requires one to adapt according to the circumstances. However, next year I want to continue serving my country in the best way possible. I also want to make more time for Ming! (The Fearne family dog)

DELICIOUS

December 2019

89

90

December 2019

DELICIOUS

You can buy the book from Scotts Supermarket, MaltaPost Outlets, Pavi & Pama Supermarkets, Agenda Bookshops, Maypole Outlets, bookshops, the Palace Valletta, Sant’Anton Palace and mccf.store A donation of ¢10 in aid of the Malta Community Chest Fund Foundation.

DEFINING DESSERALITÉ Interview with

JESSICA Preʼalpato

J

essica Préalpato, Head pastry chef at Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athénée and the winner of The World’s Best Pastry Chef 2019, sponsored by Sosa, believes in a humble, no-frills cuisine dedicated to paying homage to quality produce.

Delicious discovers the ethos behind Jessica Préalpato’s streamlined philosophy of ‘desseralité’, how she puts French produce at the centre of her work and her projects for the future.

92

December 2019

DELICIOUS

Up your festive baking game!

- Balluta - San Gwann - Smart Supermarket (Outlet), B’Kara

- Is Suq tal Belt (Valletta) Tel: 2141 7327

®

GOOD EARTH

DELICIOUS

December 2019

93

I wanted to be a psychologist because the human brain always fascinated me.

94

December 2019

DELICIOUS

I recently read you inherited a sweet tooth and a taste for good produce from your parents.

I come from a gourmet family but my parents are not really pastry chefs. To be precise, my dad and my brother are bakers. My second brother is a chef and has just opened his restaurant. However, when I was in high school, I was not dreaming about becoming a Pastry chef. I wanted to be a psychologist because the human brain always fascinated me. Then, the fear of studies and the desire to do a manual work close to the product led me to the kitchen. During my internships, my passion for pastry grew. My encounters with Frédéric Vardon and Alain Ducasse pushed me to a more “cooking pastry”.

How would you describe your “naturalness” approach to pastry?

The nature-philosophy of Alain Ducasse is called Naturalness. Desseralité is a mix between Naturalness and dessert. Naturalness’ number one rule is to highlight the product in its most raw condition, I do apply this rule for the desserts.

The name of your book, Desseralité, is a portmanteau of ‘dessert’ and ‘naturalité’, which is the basis of Alain Ducasse’s approach to cooking. How would you describe desseralité and your style of patisserie?

Desseralité is a different way of thinking based on the product. The respect of the product, the season and the producer. The goal is to sublimate the product to highlight its taste and roughness. Desseralité is about bringing the sugar out of the fruit. Today, we are using sugar as a seasoning.

The book traces my first three years within the restaurant, the creation and the evolution of my desserts. When a dessert is imagined, there is always a story behind it.

A meeting with either a supplier or an atypical product discovery... Respect for the product is always at the heart of our creation process. Then we compose and we prepare the dessert with the aim to surprise the guest with each bite. I like for example to use vinegar, alcohol... the goal is that the guest does not get “bored” during the tasting, each bite should bring him a new information, a new emotion.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

95

You often note; “If a fruit is sugary enough to begin with, like pears can be, it is not necessary to add more.”

Can you elaborate?

We try to bring all the flavours out of the product. On the one hand we will highlight the natural sugar in the fruits by selecting seasonal fruits, which are completely mature and this is sometimes already enough. Or we use some techniques, such as cooking or fermentation to extract all the flavours and sweetness. On the other hand, if the fruit needs some added sugar (such as rhubarb for example) we are more likely to choose non refined sugar or honey. The feedback of our guests is of key importance. Our desserts are less sweet but still remain tasty.

And for me, pleasure goes along with delicacy and not necessary with sweetness. The goal is not to do desserts without sugar but just desserts, which are well balanced.

In what way does your work put French produce at the centre stage?

The whole philosophy of naturalness and desseralité is about the product and thus also about the producer.

I like to have a strong relation with the producer and to know where my products come from.

What are your favourite ingredients to work with?

Fruits are my favourite products. I am lucky to have incredibly good products. A good fruit makes 50% of the work! The remaining 50% are associations and techniques to sublimate it.

You have worked around the world in locations such as Dubai, Tokyo, Beirut and St Petersburg. Has such experiences inspired your work?

My experiences abroad have been very rewarding to me! From a human, cultural and culinary aspect. I’ve brought back many of Japan’s techniques like fermentations, kakigori, or just the incredible lightness of their biscuits. In Russia, I remember the cream and cottage cheese buns and disguised fruits – a very complicated technique ! However, from all my travel destinations, Beirut was a revelation for me. I love their pastries ! Honey, spices, dried fruits, flavours of roses and orange blossom... It was a real journey for the senses and remains a very nice memory for me. I just regret not having been able to learn more about their techniques.

96

December 2019

DELICIOUS

You have just won the prestigious title of World’s Best Pastry Chef 2019. What do you think has been the secret to your success?

I never imagined I could receive this title. It was unexpected but I am so proud and so happy for the team of the restaurant. This distinction puts the “Desseralité” into the spotlight. Naturalness was a challenge 5 years ago: working and presenting the product in the rawest way. I am delighted that guests all around the world understand our pastry and our message. However, and even if I am thrilled to have won this title, it is not going to change my life and my relationship to the restaurant where I want to continue to develop the Naturalness.

Do you have any plans for the future that you can share with us?

To continue to develop the Naturalness with Alain Ducasse. There are still many associations to create, products to discover and rediscover to our guests.

Moreover, I am very attached to my team without whom nothing would have been like it is now: I want to keep moving forward with them.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

97

INGREDIENTS 800g pork belly, boneless and skin removed 1 tsp fresh ginger finely chopped 1 tsp fresh thyme finely chopped 1 onion finely chopped 4 tbsp dark soy sauce 100ml mirin 50g brown sugar 300ml water Sea salt Freshly cracked black pepper To ■ ■ ■

serve: 200ml dark pork tea consommé (or pork broth) 4 Spring onions finely sliced 10g pickled ginger, finely cut into julienne

METHOD: ■ Preheat the oven to 160 °C, lay the pork belly in an oven dish and coat with ginger, thyme, onion, soy sauce, mirin, sugar, and water until pork is well covered. Season well.

■ Cover the dish with a lid or with aluminium foil. Cook for about 3 hours checking from time to time that the water does not reduce too much. Remove from oven and let it cool slowly for another 2 hours. Remove the pork and divide into four portions. Put again in the oven dish and reheat. Remove some of the cooking liquid and reduce on high heat.

To serve: ■ Divide the pork into four deep plates, add the heated pork consommé, glaze with the cooking liquid reduction and top with spring onions and pickled ginger.

George Borg Executive Chef at Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s

98

December 2019

DELICIOUS

ABRAHAMS

SLOW ROASTED LOCAL PORK BELLY, CONSOMMÉ TEA, SOY MIRIN AND GINGER

This recipe pairs perfectly with Torrevento, Since 1913 Primitivo Di Manduria This red wine from Apulia is soft, full-bodied, very fruity on the palate, with aromas of ripe cherries, plums, and with an impressive balance and elegant tannins.

Enjoy this Primitivo with this excellent Slow Roasted Local Pork Belly!

Fabien Etienne Sommelier and Wine Consultant Vini e Capricci by Abraham’s

DELICIOUS

December 2019

99

FRESH LOCAL CALAMARI Pan seared, flamed with pastis, chardonnay, herb & garlic, fresh tomato, finished with a fresh cream sauce

4

100

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

1100gr cleaned calamari (squid) sliced into rings and tentacles roughly chopped 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 1 onion (sliced) 1 fennel bulb (chopped) 3 garlic cloves (chopped) 2 tbsp tomato paste 1/4 cup Sambuca or any anise-flavoured liquor 1 cup white wine 2 tomatoes (finely chopped) Salt and pepper 1/2 cup fresh parsley (chopped) 1/4 cup fennel fronds (chopped) 1/4 cup fresh cream

■ Heat the olive oil in a large pot over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot, add the onions and the fennel bulb. Stir to coat well with oil and sauté stirring occasionally, until it begins to colour, about 5-6 minutes. Sprinkle with salt.

Add in the chopped garlic cloves and tomato paste and stir well to combine.

Cook this for a further 2-3 minutes. Pour in the white wine and increase the heat to high, while stirring continuously.

Leave to cook until liquid is reduced by half. Add in the Sambuca and the crushed tomatoes.

■ Stir in the calamari and simmer for 10 to 15 minutes. Once the calamari are tender, adjust with salt and pepper to your liking. Add the chopped parsley, fennel fronds and cream. Stir well to combine and serve.

December 2019

DELICIOUS

COUNTRY TERRACE

DELICIOUS

December 2019

101

Euro Club Hotel

102

t. 2158D1078/9 ELICIOUS- w. euroclubhotel.com - f. Euro club Hotel Malta, Watson’s Pub

December 2019

THE WATSON’S PUB

STUFFING TURKEY DIPPERS

by Chef Patron Dylan Ciappara

INGREDIENTS: Stuffing: 100g butter 300g onion (finely chopped 100g celery 50g garlic 1 loaf of bread cut in cubes and oven dried 70g walnuts roasted (crushed) 100g golden raisins 1tbs rosemary 1tbs thyme ½tbs sage 1tbs oregano 2tbs salt/ pepper 3tbs fine chopped parsley 250ml turkey stock 2 eggs

METHOD: ■ Heat the butter butter in a pan and add the onions, garlic, celery and cook on medium heat until softened. Combine the mixture with the oven dried bread and add the raisins, walnuts, herbs and season with salt and pepper. Mix everything until thoroughly combined. In a separate bowl mix the turkey stock and eggs and combine with the mixture. Place on a baking tray and bake in a preheated oven for 30 minutes.

MORE INGREDIENTS: 2 turkey breasts (sliced 1cm thick horizontally) Bread crumbs 4 eggs (beaten) 2tbs salt/pepper 250g flour Cranberry sauce

METHOD: ■ Spread the turkey breasts overlapping each piece on a clean surface, cover with clingfilm and hammer gently to create an escalope. Season with salt and pepper, Top with some stuffing and roll gently, completely enclosing the stuffing, Wrap the rolled turkey breast in cling film and refrigerate for at least 2 hrs.

■ In the meantime combine the flour with salt and pepper. Slice the rolled turkey breast in approx. 6cm long, roll in the flour, dip well in the egg mixture and finally mix well in the breadcrumbs. Warm a little oil in a frying pan over a medium heat. Place the rolls in the pan and cook on all sides for about 15 minutes or until golden. Remove from the heat and serve hot. Serve with cranberry sauce.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

103

MICHELIN ADDS MALTA TO ITS LIST OF RESTAURANT GUIDES

by Ivan Brincat

M

ALTA: Amid the largest political crisis to have ever hit the tiny Mediterranean island of Malta, Michelin announced the release of an online guide on Maltese restaurants. The guide will be available free of charge.

The Michelin guide will be revealed on 26 February on Michelin’s digital platform guide.michelin.com Malta joins 32 countries that will be covered by the Michelin Guide in 2020.

Gwendal Pullennec, the International Director of the Michelin guides said “Our mission at the Michelin Guide has always been to highlight the best gastronomic establishments around the world to its readers. Today the Maltese culinary scene has talents that are worthy of discovery by foodies from around the world.”

Malta joins Slovenia which is also being added to the portfolio of countries that are covered by Michelin. The latter is rumoured to have paid around ¢1million to have Michelin judge its restaurants. It is not known what the cost for Malta has been but it is likely to run into tens of thou-

104

December 2019

DELICIOUS

sands of euros if not hundreds of thousands.

Pullennec said that in an effort to respect local specialities and culinary knowledge and to value the work of passionate men and women, the inspectors of the Michelin Guide particularly appreciated the diversity of the cuisine to be found on the archipelago. “At the crossroads of cultures, the Maltese gastronomic scene is a reflection of its rich past by marrying culinary influences from Italy, Mediterranean countries, North Africa and also Great Britain, not to mention contemporary trends.

Although Michelin has a tendency to keep announcements secret, it is unlikely that there will be many starred restaurants in Malta at this juncture. There is speculation of a potential one or two 1 Michelin starred restaurants and a few others that have been earmarked with the potential of making the grade in future.

A one Michelin star restaurant signifies a very good restaurant. Two stars are ‘excellent cooking that is worth a detour’ and three stars mean ‘exceptional cuisine that is worth a special journey’.

For Malta, Michelin’s presence is significant. But is the country and the restaurant sector ready?

ZERO

Waste Christmas Turn your old newspapers and magazines into something fabulous this Christmas.

FREEPHONE

8007 2200

DELICIOUS

December 2019

105

MASSIMO BOTTURA, ANTONIA KLUGMANN, FRANCO CIMINI AND GABRIELE BONCI TRIUMPH IN NEW 50 TOP ITALY GUIDE

R

OME: Osteria Francescana, in Modena, with chef Massimo Bottura; L’Argine a Vencò, in Dolegna del Collio (GO), led by Antonia Klugmann; Antica Osteria del Mirasole, in San Giovanni in Persiceto (BO), by Franco Cimini; and Panificio Bonci, in Rome, by Gabriele Bonci triumphed at the 50 Top Italy which was announced at the Teatro Eliseo in Rome on Monday 2 December.

This free online guide is unique because it divides the Italian restaurant sector into four categories: over 120 euros, up to 120 euros, Trattoria/Osteria and Low Cost.

It is a project by LSDM (an annual gourmet cooking congress held since 2008 in Paestum) and is curated by its creators, Barbara Guerra and Albert Sapere, in collaboration with the journalist Luciano Pignataro.

In second and third place for the category Over 120 euros were Uliassi, in Senigalia (AN), by chef Mauro Uliassi, and the St. Hubertus restaurant in San Cassiano (BZ),

by Norbert Niederkofler. In the Up to 120 euros ranking, second place went to Lido 84, in Gardone Riviera (BS),

by Riccardo Camanini, and third to 28 Posti, in Milan, by Marco Ambrosino.

For the Trattoria/Osteria category, second place was awarded to Trippa in Milan, by Diego Rossi, and third to

106

December 2019

DELICIOUS

Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina, in Rome, which is owned by brothers Alessandro and Pierluigi Roscioli.Finally, in the Low Cost classification, second place went to Anikò, in Senigalia (AN), which is directed by Moreno Cedroni, and third to Generi Alimentari Da Panino, in Modena, by Giuseppe Palmieri.

“What comes out of this – said the three curators – is a valid and authentic picture of the entire Italian restaurant sector. It is a sector which, despite various difficulties, enjoys success. This is primarily due to the fact that we have the fortune to live in a country where every single territory is the custodian of a unique and precious food or raw material. It is no coincidence, in fact, that almost all of the regions of Italy are present in the guide, from the North to the South of the peninsula. The rest is made up of the work, the passion, the competence and the flair of the women and men who participated in this contest. The division of the guide into categories represents our desire to create a project that focuses mainly on the reader’s point of view.”

There are a total of 200 restaurants reviewed by the guide, 50 for each category in 50 Top Italy. A panel of judges composed of 130 inspectors visited the restaurants anonymously, gave their review autonomously and, paid the bill. The parameters used for judging are revolutionary. They include a significant mark given to the service and the welcome which are fundamental elements for a restaurant that treats its guests with care.

THE FOLLOWING ARE THE TOP 10 IN EACH CATEGORY TOP TEN “OVER ¢120”

TOP TEN “TRATTORIE/OSTERIE”

1. Osteria Francescana, Modena, Emilia Romagna

1. Antica Osteria del Mirasole, San Giovanni in Persiceto (BO), Emilia Romagna

2. Uliassi, Senigallia (AN), Marche 3. St. Hubertus, San Cassiano (BZ), Trentino Alto Adige 4. Danì Maison, Ischia (NA), Campania 5. Piazza Duomo, Alba (CN), Piemonte 6. Duomo, Ragusa, Sicilia 7. La Pergola, Roma, Lazio 8. Taverna Estia, Brusciano (NA), Campania 9. Enrico Bartolini Mudec, Milano, Lombardia 10. Vun Andrea Aprea, Milano, Lombardia

2. Trippa, Milano, Lombardia 3. Roscioli Salumeria con Cucina, Roma, Lazio 4. La Brinca, Ne (GE), Liguria 5. Ristorante Consorzio, Torino, Piemonte 6. Retrobottega, Roma, Lazio 7. Exit gastronomia urbana, Milano, Lombardia 8. Al Convento, Cetara (SA), Campania 9. NU’ Trattoria Italiana dal 1960 – Trattoria di civiltà e libertà contadina, Acuto (FR), Lazio 10. Braceria Bifulco, Ottaviano (NA), Campania

TOP TEN “UP TO ¢120” 1. L’Argine a Vencò, Dolegna del Collio (GO), Friuli Venezia Giulia 2. Lido 84, Gardone Riviera (BS), Lombardia 3. 28 Posti, Milano, Lombardia

TOP TEN “LOW COST” 1. Panificio Bonci, Roma, Lazio 2. Anikò, Senigallia (AN), Marche

4. Gucci Osteria da Massimo Bottura, Firenze, Toscana

3. Generi Alimentari DA PANINO, Modena , Emilia Romagna

5. Pascucci al Porticciolo, Fiumicino (RM), Lazio

4. ‘Ino, Firenze, Toscana

6. Antica Osteria Nonna Rosa, Vico Equense (NA), Campania

5. Supplizio, Roma, Lazio

7. Materia, Cernobbio (CO), Lombardia

7. Nud e Crud, Rimini, Emilia Romagna

8. Oasis Sapori Antichi, Vallesaccarda (AV), Campania

8. La Tradizione, Vico Equense (NA), Campania

9. da Gorini, San Piero In Bagno (FC), Emilia Romagna

9. Fud Bottega Sicula Catania, Catania, Sicilia

10. La Tana Gourmet, Asiago (VI), Veneto

10. Trapizzino, Roma, Lazio

6. Masoni Macelleria & Bistrot, Viareggio (LU), Toscana

DELICIOUS

December 2019

107

CHRISTIAN BAU OF VICTOR’S FINE DINING TO COOK AT AGUSTIN BALBI’S HAKU

by Ivan Brincat

108

December 2019

DELICIOUS

H

ONG KONG: Between the 6th and 8th January, HAKU will kick off the New Year by welcoming renowned German Chef, Christian Bau of Victor’s Fine Dining for a special collaboration together with executive chef Agustin Balbi.

Located in the heart of the picturesque Moselle vineyards in Schlossberg, Victor’s Fine Dining was awarded its 3rd Michelin Star in 2005. It retains the honour to this day. The chef de cuisine and head host since 1998, Christian Bau was the youngest German chef to achieve the three-star accolade. He continues to enchant diners with highly innovative European gastronomy with Japanese influences.

The HAKU X Victor’s Fine Dining 8-course collaboration menu will be priced at HK$2,580 + 10% per guest on 6-8 January, bringing a taste of Germany’s sought-after dining experience to Hong Kong.

Christian Bau heads the kitchen of Victor’s Fine Dining, a position that has honed him into one of Europe’s most distinguished culinary figures. Following a five-year stint at the legendary three- Michelin-starred restaurant Schwarzwaldstuben in Berlin, Chef Bau joined Victor’s Fine Dining in 1998 – the same year the restaurant earned its first Michelin star. The second star followed in 1999, and the final third was clinched in 2005. In 2018, Bau was named Gault&Millau’s Chef of the Year (19.5pts) for his outstanding innovation in haute cuisine, and in 2019, was bestowed the Federal Cross of Merit as Germany’s Culinary Ambassador.

At Victor’s Fine Dining, Chef Bau is breaking boundaries with a constantly evolving Carte Blanche menu inspired by Japanese culinary traditions. His menu combines the best seasonal produce with ground-breaking techniques and personal nuances, showcasing an inimitable style of progressive cuisine.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

109

HAKU by Agustin Balbi x Victor’s Fine Dining by Christian Bau The menu will feature a unique harmony of innovative Japanese and modern European flavours. During his guest stint at HAKU Hong Kong, Chef Bau will make use of fresh produce from Japan to craft creative new dishes for this collaboration menu.

Starting with his signature Japanese Waffle with sardines, cream of sea herbs and caviar, highlights also include Kinmedai with in-season Splendid Alfonso fish grilled with heart of Palm, yuzu kosho sauce and XO oil. There will be the Kumamoto Wagyu, an artistic amalgamation of melting A4 Kumamoto kurowagyu with eggplant from Kyoto and beef jus. From Chef Balbi, expect delectable creations with similarly top-line Japanese produce such as Tarabagani (King Crab), steamed with soft daikon, cabbage and yuzu; Hotate (Scallop) from Hokkaido with morcilla sauce, slow-cooked burdock and chips and the incredibly sweet Amaou Ichigo or fresh strawberries from Arai combined with Malaga wild strawberries and sake ice cream for dessert.

Agustin Balbi

About HAKU A giant of traditional Japanese Kaiseki, Chef Hideaki Matsuo has overseen the kitchen at 3-Michelin starred Osaka restaurant Kashiwaya for over two decades. A Relais & Châteaux chef, Chef Matsuo’s haute Japanese cuisine and dedication to the art of Japanese tea saw him become one of his country’s most celebrated culinary figures. Agustin Balbi, Executive Chef of HAKU, was named Best New Chef 2016 by T Dining by Hong Kong Tatler. His diverse international experience is reflected in beautifully prepared contemporary dishes that are heavily inspired by his work in Japan. HAKU represents the culmination of Matsuo’s philosophy and Balbi’s technical prowess, using only the freshest and highest quality ingredients flown in daily from Japan prepared in the traditional Japanese way and accented with innovative Spanish and Mediterranean twists.

110

December 2019

DELICIOUS

DELICIOUS

December 2019

111

love Gozo love food enjoy Country Terrace

Country Terrace Lounge Bar & Restaurant Zewwieqa Street, Mgarr - Gozo T:+356 2155 0248 M:+356 9944 6833 E: info@country-terrace.com

112

December 2019

DELICIOUS

99262807 beechwoodltd@hotmail.com www.beechwoodltd.com Beechwood Ltd

Moved to: 2, Triq Sant Andrija,Luqa. (Opposite to School) Chairs can be polished in 12 different colours.

Seats can be solid, raffia or upholstered.

Tables can be produced made to measure or extendable.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

113

114

December 2019

DELICIOUS

SHRIMP CEVICHE

by Chef Aarón Sánchez

T

his is great for festive events, it’s so easy to prepare ahead of time and then plate nicely when guests arrive. Ceviche is one of my favorites to serve as a perfect first bite before the main dish comes out. I think it’s very important to have not only drinks, but some appetizers ready when hosting as it brings ease to everything so you don’t have to rush in getting out the rest of the meal.

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

1.3kg shrimps, peeled 3 habanero chiles, grilled or roasted 1 can coconut milk 4 limes 4 oranges 1 bay leaf 1 teaspoon coriander seeds 3 tbsp salt 8 cups water extra virgin olive oil lime juice chives chopped cilantro chopped ½ cup rice wine vinegar ½ cup pickled onion

■ I­n a sauce pot, combine the water, salt, bay leaf, coriander seeds, 2 of the oranges and 2 of the limes squeezed and bring to a boil. In a bowl or container set up an ice bath with ice, water and the remaining 2 limes and oranges, squeezed.

■ Add the shrimps to the boiling water and let cook for about 2 minutes. Transfer the shrimps to the ice bath and let cool. Dice.

■ In a blender combine the grilled or roasted habanero chiles, rice vinegar, can of coconut milk and juice of 1 lime. Purée until smooth.

■ Pour just about a cup of the blended mixture over the diced shrimp, add about 2 tablespoons of extra virgin olive oil and juice of about 1 lime. Add some of the chopped cilantro and sea salt to taste. Mix well and serve in a bowl garnished with pickled onions, chive and cilantro.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

115

WHOLE GRILLED SNAPPER WITH ROASTED FENNEL AND GRAPEFRUIT

by Chef Aarón Sánchez

116

INGREDIENTS:

Aarón’s Adobo Ingredients

3 bulbs fennel, with stalks and fronds 3 ruby red grapefruits Extra virgin olive oil Salt and pepper, to taste 1tbsp chile flakes + a pinch chile flakes reserved 1 garlic clove, thinly sliced ¾ cup Chardonnay 1 lemon 1.3kg red snapper, cleaned and scaled 2 tbsp Aarón’s Adobo (see recipe) 2 tbsp olive oil

Makes approximately 1½ cups ¼ cup cumin seeds ¼ cup coriander seeds ¼ cup fennel seeds ¼ cup yellow mustard seeds 2 pasilla chiles, stemmed, seeded, deveined, and torn into small pieces 2 ancho chiles, stemmed, seeded, deveined, and torn into small pieces ½ cup dried whole oregano (preferably Mexican) 2 tbsp onion powder 2 tbsp garlic powder ¼ cup Spanish paprika (pimenton), preferably sweet or hot

December 2019

DELICIOUS

METHOD: ■ Remove the stalks and fronds from the fennel and reserve. Peel off the tough outer layer from the fennel bulbs (just as you would with an onion) and discard.

■ Take two of the three fennel bulbs, cut in half lengthwise, then cut into ½ inch wedges, set aside. Split the third fennel bulb lengthwise down the center and remove the tough core completely. Thinly shave the third fennel bulb using a mandolin and place fennel into an ice water bath to crisp (for up to one hour).

■ Cut the grapefruit into “supremes” (segments without any skin or pith). Cut off both ends of the grapefruit and set flat side down on a cutting board. With a sharp small knife or paring knife, cut the rind and pith off by following the shape of the fruit. This should reveal a round red piece of grapefruit. Then set the fruit on its side and cut towards the center following each membrane until the cut meets, releasing a perfect segment. Squeeze the grapefruit segments to release all of the remaining juice into a bowl, reserving the juice and the segments separately.

■ Preheat a heavy sauté pan over medium high heat.

Add extra virgin olive oil to the pan and sear the fennel wedges from the two fennel bulbs for about 3 minutes per side or until slightly caramelized. Be careful not to crowd the pan, feel free to work in batches, if necessary. Season the fennel with salt, pepper and 1 tablespoon of chile flakes. Add the thinly sliced garlic and half of the grapefruit segments to the pan with the fennel, and sauté for another 2 to 3 minutes. Deglaze the pan with the Chardonnay and reserved grapefruit juice, scraping up any little bits off the bottom of the pan, and allow to reduce by half, approximately 3 to 4 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

■ Slice the lemon into thin round slices. Thinly slice the reserved fennel stems on a bias (diagonally) and add both the lemon and fennel stems to a small bowl.

Add a pinch of chile flakes and combine well.

Adobo. Rub the seasoning into the cavity of the fish as well as into the slices on each side of the flesh. Stuff the cavity with the lemon and fennel stem mix.

■ Preheat an outdoor grill (or a grill pan, if indoors) to medium-high heat. Sear the fish for about 4 minutes per side, being careful not to flip it too early, as the skin needs time to sear properly or it will tear as you try to flip it. Give the skin time to let itself naturally separate from the surface of the grill before flipping.

Remove the fish from heat.

■ Preheat the oven to 400°F. ■ In a large casserole pan, add the caramelized fennel and grapefruit mix to the bottom, then place the fish on top. Drizzle the fish with 2 tablespoons of olive oil and roast for 7 to 12 minutes or until the fish has cooked through to the bone. Remove from oven.

■ In the meantime, drain the water from the shaved fennel, shake off any excess and let dry on a few paper towels. Toss the shaved fennel, the other half of the grapefruit segments and the fennel fronds in a bowl.

Season with salt, pepper and a drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

■ Serve the fish immediately (in the same casserole dish is fine), with the raw fennel and grapefruit salad on top.

Aarón’s Adobo Method ■ Heat a dry skillet over medium-low heat. Pour in the cumin, coriander, fennel, and mustard seeds along with the pieces of pasilla and ancho chiles. Toast, stirring constantly, until it is very aromatic, about 3 minutes.

■ Dump the mixture onto a plate and let it cool to room temperature. Grind it to a fine powder in a spice grinder or clean coffee grinder.

■ Make 4 or 5 parallel 3-inch long slices on each side of the snapper, almost cutting down to the bone.

■ Put the powder in a large bowl and add the oregano, onion powder, garlic powder and paprika. Stir them really well to combine.

■ Drizzle the fish inside and out with extra virgin olive oil and season generously with salt, pepper and Aarón’s

■ Store the adobo in an airtight container or resealable plastic bag in a cool, dark place for up to a month.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

117

RUMMO 80 x 210 mm.pdf 1 14/06/2018 16:25:31

Rummo Lenta Lavorazione is the only pasta to be approved by the Italian Cooks Federation.

C

M

Y

CM

MY

CY

CMY

K

{ Follow us on Facebook } Trade enquiries: 2180 2554 or info@sogood.com.mt

118

December 2019

DELICIOUS

120

December 2019

DELICIOUS

PUSHING Boundaries Interview with HEINZ REITBAUER

G

rowing up working at his parents’ restaurant, Steirereck, may have given Austrian chef Heinz Reitbauer an early advantage. But since joining them as a partner in 1996 he’s established himself as a culinary force in his own right. Reitbauer attended hotel school in Altötting, Germany, at the age of 16 before undertaking his first apprenticeship in his father’s kitchen. A second year of training under hotelier-restauranteur brothers Rudi and Karl Obauer gave Reitbauer a strong foundation in modern Austrian cuisine and prepared him for greater challenges.

In 1989 he moved to Lyon, France, to work under renowned Chef Alain Chapel, after which he relocated once again, this time to London to work for Swiss chef Anton Mosimann. Returning to his native Austria, Reitbauer teamed up with his parents to open a restaurant and inn in the rural region of Styria, Wirtshaus Steirereck Pogusch. A farm on the grounds supplies most of the kitchen’s needs, while local products round out the selection with typically Styrian flavours, always with an eye to authenticity and sustainability.

With the inn well established and flourishing, in 2005, Reitbauer turned his attention back to the original Steirereck in Vienna’s central city park, and set about putting his mark on it. Since then he has been entertaining customers with his amazing talent. He is also at the forefront of a quiet revolution that has been going on in Austria’s culinary industry.

Chef Reitbauer shared with Delicious his philosophy of food, his views on the Austrian culinary world and his projects in the pipeline.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

121

122

December 2019

DELICIOUS

In what way are the mountains your source of inspiration?

The tranquility of nature surrounding our restaurant at the Pogusch brings a lot of inspiration to us.

In what way does Steirereck stand out of the crowd?

This has to be answered by others.

In what way has your time working at your parents’ restaurant influenced your career path?

To work in your own, family run business, makes – of course – a difference. On the one hand, everything you do is for your own business and your own future, on the other hand, you see things the way they have ever been.

So I think a combination of both, working abroad and working at home made me the chef I am today.

Tell us about your style?

For us it is very important that our style of cooking shows the respect for our nature and it’s seasons.

You insist that one needs to dedicate a part of the day to not only try new things but also to think and to do something else.

Can you elaborate?

We think that a free mind and spirit is much more cooperative.

In what way is creativity the salt of a dish?

Of course a big part. But it’s a combination of creativity, outstanding products and a vision to create great things.

Tell us about your tasting menu?

It shows always the most actual doing and thinking of our kitchen.

Food critics believe you are leading a quiet revolution in Austria’s food scene. How has Austria’s food scene evolved over the past years?

Because of great innovative producers, we have the chance to use outstanding local products. Together with a growing community we are able to show the Austrian footprint on our plates.

Is Austria ready to promote itself on the world stage of global gastronomy?

Definitely! Like the “KochCampus“ a group of Austrian Chefs and producers who always work on the innovation of the Austrian cuisine. Not so many countries can offer such a big variety of great products and producers implemented by great chefs. And most of the restaurants in Austria are family run. That means even more personalities involved.

Any projects in the pipeline?

Complete redoing of our restaurant at the Pogusch. Keeps us busy the next year.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

123

124

December 2019

DELICIOUS

It’s Beginning to

LOOK A LOT LIKE Christmas at Bahia

T

he Festive Season is a busy time at Bahia. The team is busy preparing various delicacies to entertain their clients with, on Christmas Eve,

Christmas Day and New Years Eve. Indeed every corner of the Bahia kitchen is heavy packed with all sorts of ingredients ready to be used to create interesting dishes which perfectly fit this special time of the year. The smell in the kitchen is incredible and arouses the taste buds of any living being that passes by Bahia. Every dish is a statement and reaffirms why Bahia is considered by many food critics as one of the best eateries on the island.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

125

126

December 2019

DELICIOUS

Chef Tyrone and his team will go an extra mile this year to create exceptional tasting menus for Christmas Eve and New Years Eve. For these special days, Tyrone’s team created menus that honours all those who want to spend special moments at the restaurant.

Grilled Gillardeau Oyster, Crème Fraiche Bavarois, Avruga Caviar, Beer Pretzel loaf, White Balsamic silver skin onions and mature cheddar, Foie Gras and raspberry torchon, vinegar and sake jelly, Kimchi consommé and white onion soup are a few items you will find as a perfect introduction on Christmas Eve and New Years Eve. Such delicacies are followed by pasta and pear sorbet will serve as a perfect break. Guests are later entertained with truffle charred lobster, lamb Wellington, peanut and breadcrumbs crusted fish and slow roasted USDA striploin. Sweet lovers will certainly not be disappointed by interesting desserts to conclude.

Each dish will be accompanied by an impressive selection of wines.

For Christmas Day, the team at Bahia opted for a set

menu. The selection is a pleasure to the eye. Wild mushroom consommé, fermented king oyster sashimi, mushroom Welsh rarebit and tarragon, pearl barley and braised local snails, puffed barley, zucchini and spinach purée, garlic and Parmigiano Reggiano are some of the starters you will be introduced with. Main course includes a choice of braised local pork cheeks, slow poached veal sweetbreads, grilled Irish beef bavette and fresh local wild fish. To conclude, guests are spoilt for choice with an interesting selection of desserts or French cheeses to choose from.

Bahia is indeed a celebration of food which reaches its epitome during this time of the year. The choice of food prepared for these special events is simply amazing and worth to enjoy with your loved ones. Booking is certainly a must so as to avoid any unnecessary disappointments. For those who can’t make it at Bahia during the Festive Season, the management at Bahia have in store a number of tasting, blindfold, vegan and upside-down events just to mention a few.

DELICIOUS

December 2019

127

128

December 2019

DELICIOUS

Courtesy of David Vidal

THE FORMULA OF

2019/20

HAMPERS

E XCE LLE NCE

Opening hours throughout the festive season Vini e Capricci shopping hours: 9AM - 7PM | Vinoteca: 11:30AM - 3PM | 6:30PM - 10:30PM Vinoteca opens on Monday evenings from 2nd December 2019 to 6th January 2020.

Shop and Vinoteca open on 24th and 31st December.

Open all Sundays and Public Holidays. Closed on the 25th December 2019 and 1st January 2020.

Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija, Gozo | T: (+356) 2156 3231 | E: viniecapricci@abrahams.com.mt

WWW.VINIECAPRICCI.COM

DELICIOUS

December 2019

129

INDIAN GASTRONOMY 11 TA’ XBIEX SEAFRONT, MSIDA

ONLINE RESERVATIONS: SHAKINAHMALTA.COM /SHAKINAH.TAXBIEXSEAFRONT

+356 27 522 322

+356 77 399 300

INFO@SHAKINAHMALTA.COM

130

December 2019

DELICIOUS