Delicious No13 December 2018 by Union Print

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December 2018

IN OUR FESTIVE STORY YOU ARE THE PROTAGONIST

MALTA WASHINGTON NEW YORK LONDON

Christmas is coming and with its happy ar rival, a p l e t h o r a o f c e l e b r a t i o n s a n d p re s e n t s . H e re a t I n t e r C o n t i n e n t a l M a l t a w e a re d e l i g h t e d t o p ro v i d e you with the finest festive season events and specially c r a f t e d re s t a u r a n t m e n u s a ro u n d . So, celebrate with our wide ar ray of Christmas culinar y delights and unparalleled levels of ser vice, w h i l e w e p ro u d l y d o t h e h a rd w o r k t h i s C h r i s t m a s ! F o r m o re i n f o r m a t i o n o r t o m a k e a re s e r v a t i o n , please call us on 21 377 600, send your email to malta.fnb@ihg.com or v i s i t m a l t a . i n t e rc o n t i n e n t a l . c o m . 2

December 2018

Live the InterContinental life.

PARIS DUBAI BANGKOK SINGAPORE BEIJING SHANGHAI SYDNEY

Food For

Thought Printing & Publishing: Union Print Co. Ltd, A41, Marsa industrial Estate, Marsa, MRS 3000 +356 25900200 Editor: Omar Vella delicious@unionprint.com.mt

Christmas is the day that holds all time together. Alexander Smith

Proof Reading: Ramona Marie Vella Cini Marthese Cauchi Design: Ryan Bezzina design@unionprint.com.mt Front image: Courtesy of Nina Tarasova Index image: Courtesy of Nina Tarasova Photos: We thank all contributers for providing photos and images. Other photos taken by Alan Saliba and Roger Azzopardi. Recipes: We thank all contributers for the recipes provided Advertising: info@unionprint.com.mt +356 2590 0200

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hilst listening to Deck the Halls lyrics, we realise that Christmas is just round the corner and " 'Tis the Season to be jolly." Kitchens are packed with all sorts of ingredients which will shortly be used by chefs to create food, glorious food! Every item prepared is a work of art which attracts the eye of any passer by and truly conveys the skills of local and foreign chefs. Delicious Winter edition brings together leading local and foreign culinary masters who offer us the opportunity to take a sneak peak into their lives, their vision, their projects and above all, their Christmas culinary point of view. This edition also provides a helping hand to all food enthusiasts on how to impress their loved ones during the Festive Season with some great recipes. I wish you all a Happy Christmas and a Happy New Year!

While we make every effort to make sure that the content of Delicious is correct, we cannot take any responsibility nor be held accountable for any factual errors printed. December 2018

77, Three Churches Street, December 2018 2 Balzan, BZN 1300, Malta

www.cosecasa.com (+356) 2144 7672

www.visitgozo.com www.visitgozo.com

December 2018

09 Vladimir Mukhin 14 Nicholai Grech 18 Antonia Klugmann 24 Tiziano Cassar 31 Keith Seychell 37 Chris Hammett 46 Amaury Guichon 52 Jessica Leah 58 Andreas Caminada

A Russian Food Tradition

A Fresh Gastro-Concept

The Essence of Excellence

A Sweet Divice A Raw Taste

Discovering the Joy of Food

The Art of Flavour

The Pleasure of Good Food

A Gastronomic Experience

December 2018

70 Sue Mifsud 80 Aáron Sánchez 90 Steven Agius 96 Isabella Potì 112 Cédric Grolet 130 Rasmus Kofoed 155 Amer Wahoud 166 Manouche 170 Nina Tarasova

The Art of Wheel Throwing

The Mexican Roots

A Collective Approach

A Rising Star

Creating Unforgettable Effects

A Child of Nature

The Perfect Taste

It's Beginning to Look a Lot like Christmas

The Cherry on the Cake

Index

December 2018

Russian Food Tradition Interview with

Vladimir

Mukhin, Chef at White Rabbit Restaurant

ladimir Mukhin is one of the most interesting chefs in the international fine dining scene. His work is impressive and confirms the reputation he earned by many international critics as a genius who has reinvented traditional recipes from his homeland by applying the all techniques modern gastronomy offers. His work is pure art and gives life to every ingredient he works with. Delicious caught up with the Chef Mukhin to discuss his approach and understand some of the hidden sides of Russian cuisine.

December 2018

VLADIMIR MUKHIN

I read you come from a family of chefs that has spanned over five generations. In what way has such legacy determined your career path? From childhood I knew that I would continue the dynasty. I managed to attend several lectures that my grandfather gave. Then I studied in the kitchen of my father's restaurant. By the age of 12 I could singlehandedly handle all the skinning and the gutting of a cow in four hours from the horns to the tail... In due time my father offered me two life-paths: either to become a policeman or a chef. For some reason, he put the question this way - perhaps he wanted to scare me ... Of course, it was a joke. Indeed, I am a chef in the fifth generation. What second thoughts can there be?

You quite often noted that Russian culture has everything necessary to become the next world trend. Why? We have a great advantage over others: our country is at the same time both in Europe and Asia, and our culture and gastronomy absorbed the traditions and philosophy of these two continents. I am sure that the next global trend should certainly be Russian. We have everything we need for this: autochthonous products, our own culinary techniques, such as urban sousing or baking in the Russian stove, and a great potential for development. During professional congresses I see how big the gap between what people are accustomed to associate Russian cuisine and what we really present to them. Therefore, Russian chefs do not remain unnoticed abroad. Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com

December 2018

To what extent have you kept loyal to your family's recipes?

In a recent interview you remarked, "We all grow up on traditions; we look to them for inspiration and try to make them even better." What role do traditions play in your work? I try to travel a lot across Russia. I go to the village to the nanas, I cook with the cooks in the monastic refectory. These people never write down their recipes, they just cook as they have been cooking in their village or monastery for several centuries. Therefore, you need to come to them and learn from their experience, their knowledge. It's not too late yet. And of course, I read a lot. I am very interested in the Russian cuisine of the Pre-Petrine Era, when it had not yet been influenced by chefs who have come to the royal court from Holland and Prussia, and later from France. 12

December 2018

Yes, to this very day I still use a lot of recipes of my ancestors - this gives me strength. I adapt them to modern techniques, for example, I replaced the yellowing in the Russian stove with cooking at low temperatures, but the most important thing in this process is not to lose the right taste but to convey it as accurately as possible. So, I can say that I try to make that very traditional meal more convenient.

So what is essentially your food philosophy? Keeping pure Russian taste. Russian chefs were always influenced by European chefs who came to Russia to work, and today, unfortunately, not everyone remembers and knows the taste of real Russian dishes! My dishes look like food from the future, but their taste comes from the past. I experiment with the form, using modern technology. I look for interesting products. However, my task is to preserve the traditional taste of Russian cuisine, to show its evolution without losing its essence.

VLADIMIR MUKHIN

You often seem to include specific ingredients like rye bread buckwheat, and Kostroma salt. How do such ingredients make your cuisine stand out of the crowd? There are a lot of ingredients, so let's focus on one of them. I always use Borodino’s black bread and not always in the form of bread. I make desserts based on it, cook sauces. Borodino’s bread has an amazing legend. It is believed that this recipe was created at the beginning of the XIX century in the women's Spaso-Borodino’s monastery, which was founded by Margarita Tuchkova, the widow of general Tuchkov, who died in the battle of Borodino. Coriander seeds, which are sprinkled over loaves of Borodino’s bread, are symbols of grapeshot.

What role does presentation have in the dining experience you offer to your clients? It seems to me that to answer this question I need to acquaint about our project. Chef’s Table is a place, where every guest who comes for dinner, can see how the dishes are prepared, get into the inner sanctum. Chef's Table is the pinnacle of the restaurant genre. We turned it into a chef's hall, where guests are in fact left alone with the chefs, not separated by the kitchen wall. They can look at their work, ask them any questions. Chef’s Table is essentially a restaurant theatre where dinners and performances take place every evening. The chefs of the White Rabbit Family, as well as other restaurants that come to us on tour, prepare author sets, talk about themselves and their work. This is a unique experience beyond compare.

How does Vladimir Mukhin celebrate the Festive Season through food? A rich New Year's table is also one of the Russian traditions. Therefore, every year, my family and I respect it scrupulously and lay a rich table with traditional dishes. A suckling pig, a dressed herring salad and so much more.

Is there any particular dish you would associate with this time of the year? Tangerine honey cake. It seems to me that tangerine is the integral symbol of the New Year in Russia. I love Abkhaz ones very much. They are not very large, but very tasty, and I used them to cook the honey cake.

What’s next on your agenda? The most upcoming and imperative plans are the opening of the first interactive restaurant in Russia, which will be called For The Krasota, in March 2019. This is a joint project of Boris Zarkov, the founder of the White Rabbit Family holding, as well as Anton Nenashev and Andrey Boltenko. The place will be awesome. I am sure you will hear about it soon. December 2018

Fresh

Gastro-Concept

December 2018

Interview with

Nicholai

Grech, W

Credits by Melvin Mifsud

alking out of Tigne' Point and heading to Bisazza Street, just a few doors down from the Lady Di pub lies a new gastro-concept which is definitely worth a try. The place seems to have hit the nail on the head offering something fresh to all food enthusiasts. Those who recently paid a visit to the outlet had words of praise and encouraged others to follow in their footsteps. I was recently struck by a comment made by the leading architect, Colin Zammit who described the place as "Different, sophisticated and specific. Up till the coffee...."

December 2018

I recently met up with one of the owners of FernandĂľ, Nicholai Grech for a chat over a quick bite and a glass of wine. Nicholai is no stranger to the scene since he happens to be also the general manager of Mirachem Marketing Limited, one of Malta's major wine importers as well as the representatives of Riedel and Coravin brands among others. Yet Nicholai is also well known in rugby circles since he is a veteran Kavallieri Rugby Football Club player . Looking at his huge stature, I am not surprised at all about his rugby background. Yet one should never judge the book by the cover and beyond that intimidating outer crust, lies a warm yet strong and focussed character with a clear vision. Given his family's background and main business activity, he has a keen interest in wine and all that has to do with the gastronomic world. Today Nicholai leads a busy life, with frequent travels abroad, dining out and wine tastings among other daily chores.

"Unfortunately, I have expensive tastes. I love good wine, good food and nice clothes. I love travelling, and all this comes at a cost." He however points out that since the birth of his daughter, "my priorities changed too, and I now administer my lifestyle differently. My agenda now works around her and family's exigencies."

I ask him about his tastes and lifestyle given his business background to which he quickly replies,

Whilst pouring me a glass of red wine, I ask Nicholai what lies behind the choice of name. He

December 2018

Whilst Nicholai orders a glass of wine to accompany our conversation, I take a look around to get a better feel of the place. FernandĂľ strikes you immediately with its modern, chic and with a right dose of glamour which fits perfectly with the vast selection of high quality local and international wines present in every corner of the outlet. FernandĂľ is indeed an eatery in town offering a relaxed yet high level ambience which spells out in the choice of furniture, the selection of cutlery and in the decor.

NICHOLAI GRECH

promptly replies "This venue, was named after my father, Fernando Grech, as a thank you for his hard work ethics and determination, as it was only thanks to him that this project could have ever happened." He points out "My father was not aware of the name up to the very last minute when he was invited to unveil the logo. It was such a huge surprise! My father is not one of those persons who gets quickly emotional yet this event would definitely be classified as one of those few moments." He explains that this event was a proud moment for the family with the presence of the famous glassmaker and entrepreneur, Maximilian Riedel. We shift our conversation on the outlet's gastro concept. Nicholai notes that the place is a perfect meeting point between good food and great wines. "We boast an impressive selection of over 500 wines to choose from, of which, 100 of them are available by the glass." He stresses that, "This is one major strength of the outlet which makes it stand out of the crowd. The choice of a good wine by the glass is not restricted by the bottle. This is only possible thanks to Coravin. "This new wine access technology allows the customer to enjoy wine without pulling the cork and without committing to the entire bottle. It offers us the possibility to be more creative with food and wine pairings. It also offers the unique possibility to compare and contrast different wines. Thanks to Coravin, the possibilities are endless." Yet FernandĂľ is not only about wines but also about good food. The place offers three types of menu which depend on the time of the day and the appetite of the customer. For those looking for a relaxed moment alone or in the company of friends or their loved ones FernandĂľ offers a selection of tapas which ranges from cold cuts to choose from the counter up to duo of

pork croquettes and slow cooked belly pork. The deli counter on the left hand side of the entrance is a joy to the eye with a vast selection of charcuterie and cheeses selected from the best producers in France and Italy. On the other hand, the selection of cooked items are sourced from the best local and foreign suppliers. The place also offers interesting lunch and dinner menus with a mouth watering selection of starters, pastas, salads, mains and desserts (depending on the time of the day). Our conversation moves on to the local market where I ask him what are his thoughts about the culinary industry. Nicholai points out that, "There are some very good chefs out there which are taking food to a new dimension. The selection of eateries has increased offering some very high quality food." I ask him whether people are more picky in their choice of restaurants and food to which he notes that since people travel more and are exposed to different food their demands have increased. "People want to know the source of what they eat, the method how food is cooked and above all they compare between the style of one eatery and another. This keeps us more on our toes and pushes us to take our product to a higher level." Its time for me to conclude our conversation yet feel I still owe our interview a final question on what does he expect from FernandĂľ in the year to come. Nicholai stops for a while and with a sharp tone notes that, "We went a long way over the past months, probably more than we expected, however the best is yet to come. This place has such a huge potential thanks to its selection of wine and its unique gastro concept. We are working on some novelties which will be launched in 2019. Next year will certainly see this place grow further."

December 2018

The

Essence of Excellence

Interview with

Antonia

Klugmann, Chef Patron at L’Argine a Vencò

ntonia Klugmann is considered as one of the best exponents of the northern Italian and international gourmet scene. Her dishes have a unique way to reflect the environment of her small country in L’Argine a Vencò, situated in Friuli, near the Slovenian border. Chef Klugmann's dishes also highlight the cultural diversity that lie at the basis of her own foundations as well as her own personal experiences and traditions. Above all, her work creates an unusual combination of ingredients and a fine and subtle use of herbs, which has played a key role in her achievement of a Michelin star in her young years. Chef Klugmann shared with us her food journey, her philosophy and her projects in the pipeline.

Credit to Francesco Orini

December 2018

What makes a student half way through a law degree shift towards the world of food? I fell in love with food when I was halfway through my law degree. In that period my parents divorced and I broke up with my fiancé. A very difficult moment in my life became my biggest opportunity. I realized I wanted to do something creative with my life and, attending some extracurricular courses at a culinary school in Milano, I understood that cuisine would be the way to do it. I decided to go back home in Friuli Venezia Giulia, the Italian region next to the Slovenian and Austrian border, to learn and to try to work in cuisine. Then, after a couple of years, I had a bad car accident and had to stop working. During my time in recovery I continued to cook with my imagination. I started exploring in depth my region, its nature and the available ingredients. The idea of opening my own restaurant grew stronger and stronger. The freedom and the pressure resulting from being my own boss have been the key leverages for the foundation of the path for my creative thinking.

December 2018

You are based on the Italian-Slovenian border. Moreover, your grandparents were coming from different places. In what way do so many cultures fit into your kitchen? I’ve opened my restaurant in the countryside close to the border with Slovenia. I chose this territory because I think it has a multicultural identity in line with Trieste, the city where I come from. Trieste was an important port of the Austro-Hungarian Empire and crossroads to different cultures. One of my grandfathers was a Polish Jew who settled in Italy with his family between the two world wars. The other was born in Puglia, but he moved to northern Italy for love, at the end of the Second World War. One of my grandmothers was born in Ferrara, in Emilia Romagna, while the other one was from Trieste. During my childhood we have always found each other around the table. But please don’t misunderstand. Revising tradition doesn’t interest me and I’m not used to look at the past with melancholy. Different cultures and traditions are a lens through which I look at cuisine. Diversity of my roots is a great source of inspiration and still is a great influence for me.

Antonia klugmaNn

Your cooking is based on territory, seasons and vegetable elements. In what way does such style of cooking differ from other forms of cuisine?

In a recent interview you noted, "We should ponder upon our relationship with nature – the legacy we leave to our children – our lives." Why?

The beautiful landscape, the vegetable garden and the vineyards surrounding me are my main sources of inspiration. This is why I’ve decided to work in the countryside. Working close to nature connects me to ingredients. We are close to purveyors and we try to prevent food waste by buying small quantities at the time and only fresh provisions. I’m not a vegetarian but vegetables, fruits and herbs are the key elements of my cuisine. They are not just side dishes, I consider them as important as any meat or fish.

Chefs think about food every minute of their lives. It would be selfish not to question oneself about general issues that concern. Of course I’m not the first and the only chef to do that. I have seafood in my menu but I question myself which type of fish I have to choose, asking about fishing techniques used by fisherman and prices. Resources are limited. Not everyone can eat all of the same things and consequently each trend can’t be global by definition. We have to boost differences in order to guarantee the sustainability of cuisine. Chefs, through their creativity and techniques, have the quality to present the best aspects of ingredients making them amazing without transforming them in something completely different, but respecting them as a whole. At the same time Chefs should be committed in raising awareness in people about how they should act about food in their everyday life, and how their behaviour will have an impact in the future. We have to work together, to safeguard differences and “to make food better” for the next generation.

December 2018

What makes Piergiorgio Parini's “Narce” such an iconic vegetarian dish? I think that Piergiorgio Parini is one of the geniuses of Italian cuisine. Piergiorgio has reflected about function of an individual ingredient. Using textures (meatiness melt part crunchiness) and tastes (acidity sweetness bitter) he has created a new meat that doesn’t exist. An imaginary animal.

I recently read that two of your favourite ingredients are blue fish and anchovies. What is so particular about them? In my childhood memories of Trieste and Puglia are linked. My grandfather used to take me to the fish market and my first raw fish was an anchovy with a little bit of lemon and oil. It’s one of the first memories that I have about taste. I also think that anchovy with its strong and distinctive taste is the Italian cuisine umami.

You also recently noted; "I don’t like to talk about revising traditional cuisine, I like to invent." Can you elaborate? I’m aware of my personal origins as well as my territory’s history. It is unavoidable that my cuisine is influenced by them. I want to be connected with the place where I work and with my community, but I want also to use my imagination. Revising tradition means repeating the same idea, just changing a little bit the words.

How would you define your experience as judge at Master Chef Italia 2018? It was an amazing opportunity to do something completely different for a brief period of my life. I closed my restaurant for 3 months and for the first time in my professional life it wasn’t important if my food was good or bad, but just how I looked and spoke. From a professional and personal point of view I grew up a lot. In addition, I’ve started to wear heels.

December 2018

In what way does the Festive Season exalt your creativity in the kitchen? Most of our regular guests have spent with us New Year’s Eve since our opening at the end of 2014. They are used to make the reservation at the end of the dinner exchanging wishes with us. This is the reason why I want always to create a new menu. Even if I choose similar ingredients I use them in different ways. Sometimes deadlines are useful incentives to let imagination work!

What's next for Chef Klugmann? I want to cook for the rest of my life, living in the countryside and improving every year our kitchen garden. At the end of November, we have opened a new dining room with an amazing view on the vineyards and a second kitchen just for bakery and pastry, where I think cooks will love to work. Adding 4 new tables to the preexisting 6 is a big revolution for us. It’s a new challenge and we worked quite a lot of achieve it. I’m sure my team will live up to it.

Antonia klugmaNn

December 2018

Interview with

Tiziano

Cassar, Executive Pastry Chef at Primavera Caterers

t is that time of the year when our imagination takes its toll to entertain in the best possible manner our loved ones on Christmas Day. We nervously read through our old recipe box and browse the internet for that interesting recipe. One of the major challenges in this process is to find a desert which will conclude the Christmas meal with a bang. The major challenge lies in finding the right balance between not too little and not too much. Who better than Chef Tiziano Cassar can help us in this challenge?

What would you recommend for dessert on Christmas day? I would definitely opt for a sparkling cranberry cheese cake. It is so simple to prepare yet always makes the trick with any Festive Season meal.

Is there any ingredient you would consider as fundamental for any preparation of sweets during this time of the year? Spice are a must have in any kitchen. You will always find cinnamon and rum handy in my own kitchen.

What is crucial when preparing Christmas sweets? I always recommend to follow the exact measures indicated in a recipe That will ensure no disappointments. It is also very important to soak well all ingredients a few

December 2018

days before baking. That will give time for fermentation and will ensure all ingredients remain moist.

Neither too simple nor too complicated. How do you find the right balance when preparing Christmas sweets? Experimentation during this time of the year can be quite tricky and can lead to unpleasant results. I always recommend to read well through a recipe and evaluate well the ingredients required and method involved. If it looks to complicated and you are not too sure about it, don't go for it.

What message should a Christmas dessert convey? I would sum it up in three words; greetings, love and family reunion.

Sweet Advise December 2018

Banana

Christmas Pudding Parfait

Carl Zahra, 26

Chef Patron at The Fork and Cork

December 2018

Ingredients 5 egg yolks 170g sugar 3 Egg whites 100g caster sugar 250ml fresh cream 400g roasted banana purée 500g Christmas pudding

Method  Roast bananas in the oven with skin. Once soft from inside purée.  Place the sugar in a saucepan and caramelize until it reaches 121°C. Once it reaches such temperature place on the side and with blender whisk the yolks. Then pour in the caramelised sugar until obtaining a fluffy texture.  In a separate bowl whip together the egg whites and caster sugar until you obtain a French meringue.  In another bowl whip the fresh cream then fold into it the banana. puree. Then add the French meringue with the egg yolk mixture. Then bring both mixtures together.  Crumble the ready-made Christmas pudding, place in a dessert dish and add the mixture on top. Freeze it and ideally serve with butterscotch sauce. Butter scotch sauce

Ingredients 150g sugar 1 tablespoon of lemon juice 300g fresh cream 100g unsalted butter

Method  Boil the sugar into caramel until it reaches 170°C, add lemon juice and cream and let dissolve Whisk in the butter and when ready refrigerate. December 2018

facebook.com/ChivasMT 28

December 2018

CHIVAS SCORES A HAT-TRICK WITH LIMITED EDITION GIFT TINS THAT CELEBRATE SPORT

Support sport for social good with Chivas’ knockout new launch

f you’re after the perfect present for the sports fan in your life, why not give a gift that gives back with Chivas’ latest launch - a trio of limited edition tins that celebrate the power of sport, with a share of the profits from each tin produced donated to charity. The vibrant tins from the original luxury blended Scotch whisky have been created across Chivas 12, Chivas Extra and Chivas 18, three pillars of the much-loved Chivas portfolio. Not only does the attractive sports design make a perfect gift for whisky lovers, but each tin produced also supports the work of the Beyond Sport Foundation, which promotes the use of sport to address social issues in communities around the world. Nick Keller, Founder and President of Beyond Sport, said: “We share the same core values as Chivas across community, collaboration and generosity. The power of sport can be felt throughout the world, and the donations generated from this partnership are sure to help us harness this power and drive sustainable social change.” Chivas’ hat-trick of collectable tins champion Chivas’ belief in the blend of generosity and success - a belief that was instilled by founding brothers, James and John Chivas, who shared their success with the local community as their business grew. By bringing together the worlds of whisky

and sport to give back, Chivas aims to show that blended is better - in life and in Scotch. Richard Black, Chivas Global Marketing Director, said: “At Chivas, we believe in using success to enrich the lives of others. We are passionate about social change and delighted that every time a sports fan or Chivas lover buys one of these tins, they are joining us in supporting Beyond Sport’s mission to celebrate the use of sport to address social issues across communities.” The tin designs represent the blend of passion, ambition and team spirit that embodies success in sport, while also bringing to life the fluidity, complexity and depth of Chivas’ world-renowned whiskies. To create the eye-catching designs, Chivas teamed up with artists Ben Koppel and Giles Revell, who used motion capture and 3D visualisation technology to track athletes in action across three sports – boxing (Chivas 12), basketball (Chivas Extra) and football (Chivas 18). The trio of tins, in shades of burgundy, red and blue, are sure to stand out in the home of any sports or Chivas fan - long after the whisky has been enjoyed. Chivas is marketed and distributed by Farsons Beverage Imports Co. Ltd. Trade Enquiry 2381 4400

December 2018

Raw

Taste

Interview with

Keith

Seychell, Owner of Capo Crudo Restolounge

heltered among the imposing bastions that rest on the Marsamxett harbour shoreline, a few meters away from the Valletta waterpolo pitch, lies one of Malta's leading restaurants. Since the outlet opened its doors, Capo Crudo took the market by storm piquing the curiosity of all local and foreign gastro enthusiasts. The place had no lesser impact on me and I decided to meet up with the artifice of Capo Crudo, Keith Seychell.

December 2018

I met Keith at the restaurant for what was initially coined by him as a 'light lunch'. Keith is no stranger to the local scene yet many know him more for his footprint in the local construction and development industry. Yet very few know about his deep passion for food. Beneath his calm and very well composed character lies a colourful mind packed with ideas which seek to make any of his projects stand out of the crowd. His agenda is heavily packed with daily chores which see him juggle several projects which touch on a number of sectors. His mobile never stops ringing yet with patience, he leaves no call unattended. I inevitably ask Keith how does he manage to find the right balance between such a busy agenda and his own personal life to which he promptly notes, "It is not an easy task. At times my work commitments are so overwhelming, I struggle to find that proper balance. However, a per-

December 2018

sonal life must always be well protected and no matter how much work I have, my family always gets its well deserved share of attention." I ask him if there is anyone in the industry he looks up to. Without any hesitation, Keith tells about his admiration and close friendship with the internationally acclaimed Chef Pino Cuttaia. Keith notes that his cooking is a celebration of everything good about the islandâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food. His personal interpretation of the regionâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s famous dishes has made his restaurant La Madia a bastion of Sicilian cuisine. Whilst the first round of starters are served, I have a look around me to get a better feel of the place. The outlet has a touch of class which is complemented by a good dose of contemporary feel and a pinch of boldness which is evident in the choice of furniture and decor including the glossy red, life-size sculpture of a

KEITH SEYCHELL

bowing man and other bright coloured patterns near the entrance. There is a predominance of white and other light colours which convey a sense of freshness and cleanliness. The restaurant is divided in open plan sections where on entering one enters the cocktail bar and lounge, from where you flow to the main restaurant. On one side is situated the open kitchen and on the other side a top class wine cellar. From there one finds a semi private dining area with a large chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s table set-up. The outlet's relaxed ambience is well complemented by the magnificent open views of Marsamxett harbour and the Sliema seafront through the glass partition outside walls. I ask Keith what encouraged him to invest in an eatery outlet to which he notes that "I was never meant to go into this industry, it actually came as a consequence of my passion for food. Once the project started to take its toll, I developed a strong will to make the place one of the best eateries on the island." Keith clarifies that he is not alone in this adventure. Indeed, he shares this journey with the famous Libyan tycoon, Husni Bey. It goes without saying that I ask him about the choice of name. Keith notes that it the idea of creating a restaurant which would excel in raw food crossed his mind. "After some thought the name 'Capo Crudo' came to mind and it quickly developed into the name of this outlet." One could never embark on such an ambitious project without a good location. Keith points out that "The area was badly kept yet the site offered the perfect spot for the concept I had in mind. I always sought to find a place with a great view. Eventually I had the opportunity to take over the place and without further ado grabbed the opportunity." Whilst an abundance of food crosses my table, I shift our conversation on the underlying gastro concept of Capo Crudo. Keith notes that, "Capo Crudo creates dishes truly worthy of its ideal location. Only the freshest will do for our chef's creations which always succeed to impress our clients." He further notes thats "Sea catch will only be served if it survives the chefâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s December 2018

Low in saturated fat Forrfied with 7 vitamins, calcium and iron Good source of Folic acid

High in fibre Low Fat 100% Wholegrain

High in Fibre Low in saturated fat Law in salt 100% Wholegraine

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com.mt

DELIVERY SERVICE EVEN TO GOZO

FOR MORE INFORMATION CONTACT US ON +356 2124 5080 OR BY EMAIL AT INFO@MANNARINU.COM MANNARINU CATERERS

December 2018

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KEITH SEYCHELL

rigorous first glance, whilst the healthiest cuts of top grade beef will be given the privilege of dry-ageing in a specially-designed glass-walled chamber for all to observe." The restaurant also boasts a large display of fresh fish sourced daily from which clients can pick and choose a fish that suits them from the dayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s catch. They also have a large aquarium with live Scottish lobsters. The menu is indeed a pleasure for the eye with such an impressive selection of crudi and carpacci to start with, an astonishing choice of starters and pasta to follow and a jaw dropping selection of fish and meat main courses which include deconstructed traditional local rabbit, crispy pan seared salmon and local pork trio among others. No meal would end on a sweet note without a selection of desserts to choose from. Every item on the menu has a story waiting to be discovered by all those who choose to dine at Capo Crudo. Keith also proudly shows me the vast selection of wines available sourced from the best wineries across the globe. The place also boasts a great selection of liquors and

spirits which serve as a perfect intro or conclusion to any meal. Whilst finishing off my choice of dessert and a much needed digestivo, I ask Keith a final question on what he has in store for the coming months. He notes that there is quite a lot going on, "We are working on the production of our very own olive oil sourced and bottled in Sicily. From a restaurant point of view, our goal for the immediate future is to have 5 restaurants by next year and as a long term project, to have a chain of restaurants in Malta and abroad. Our target markets are Lebanon, Italy, England and Libya. Yet before any project will be considered, we need to make sure to consolidate what we have and to always keep at the centre of initiative our dedicated and committed team spearheaded by Chef Jonathan Vassallo, Janica Schembri and Giuseppe Rutigliano. No project would be possible either without the unconditional support of my better half, Celaine."

December 2018

Sky Shop available on Air Malta flights, where applicable.

Sky Bar available on Air Malta flights, where applicable.

December 2018

Discovering the Joy of Food Interview with

Chris

Hammett, Owner of Hammett's Collection

hen addressing the subject of talent in the local food industry, Chris Hammett must certainly be brought into the equation. I recently met Chris at Hammett's Macina Restaurant where notwithstanding what seemed to be a very busy morning, he found some time to sit and discuss his journey in the food industry over a coffee. The place is impressive with a unique chic touch which blends perfectly with the rich history that lies behind the ancient walls of the Macina. Indeed, the Macina was built by the Knights in the Senglea fortifications and was used for the vesselsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; sails. During the British period it served as the Admiralty principle office. Every detail in the place seems to be in sync with the rest, from the imposing chandelier to the furniture, up to the bar area. They are all impressive, yet none overshadow the limestone walls with their characteristic bright sandy colour which gives that unique vibe to the place. Credit by Sean Mallia December 2018

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chris hammeTt

Credit by Tamsin Pace

After a quick sip of coffee, I set the tone of our conversation by asking him "Who is Chris Hammett?" He smiles and notes that it is not an easy question to answer. Chris points out, "I have had many lives. Every three or four years, my life changes moving from one project to another, from one house to another, from one role to another. Today, I am first and foremost a family man with four boys under the age of 6 and a patient wife." Chris is a chef by profession. Yet, as he ad-

mits, he does not get the opportunity to cook as much anymore, and instead he focuses on developing a strong culinary influence for his team and his concepts. After spending nearly a decade at The Villa, building a reputation for fine dining, events & unique culinary concepts, the twenty-four-time award winning chef and restauranteur has recently launched Hammettâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Collection which comprises of Hammett's Macina Restaurant, The Sheer Bastion and Hammett's Gastro Bar.

December 2018

chris hammetT

Credit by Sean Mallia

Although it sounds to be the usual cliché question, I find it hard not to ask Chris what attracted him to the food industry. My relationship with food started at a very young age amongst the pots and pans of my grandmother's kitchen. I loved watching her prepare some good 'aljotta' or her famous 'ross il-forn'. My interest in food was further reinforced thanks to the various spices and foods my father used to bring back home from the Far East. "Ever since I was a young teen I always enjoyed cooking for family and friends as it allowed me to discover the world of cuisine using the people around me as guinea pigs. My interest quickly turned into a passion and continued to develop until one day I decided to take a leap of faith and follow my dream in studying at 'Le Cordon Bleu’. Following that I was lucky enough to further my education by working at some of Londons most renowned kitchens. Since moving back home, it has been a whirl-wind of culinary fun: from building award winning kitchens to launching authentically unique restaurant concep."ts’’

December 2018

Our conversation shifts on his culinary inspirations. "I love Asian food and I am gradually discovering South American cuisine. I adore Peruvian cuisine as it creates a perfect fusion between South American and Asian food cultures. I consider my cuisine as Mediterranean yet was trained in classical French cuisine." He admits London is such a source of inspiration where he can taste different flavours in one street. He notes, "It is amazing how many food cultures you will come across in the streets of London. The place offers a range of tastes which originate from the Andes region up to the remote cities of India. When it comes to food I like to try different things, explore different flavours, textures and combinations and London is just the place which brings everything together."

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I ask Chris what led him to opt for the name Hammett's Collection. Contrary to what many might believe to be an egocentric exercise, he clarifies the real story behind the name. It was my wifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s idea - when we met she often commented on how she loved the social culture at my house - where food, drink and social activity was the heart of every birthday, anniversary, family gathering, Sunday lunch or BBQ . After we married we continued this tradition and it was ultimately the inspiration behind the different concepts in the Hammettâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Collection as well as the name. Chris is keen to provide more detail on his concepts. Hammett's Gastro Bar is the first place he opened after The Villa and where he could really express his distinct personality both in food and in the dining experience. He points out " Hammett's Gastro Bar is all about being able to taste a variety of dishes through a sharing plates approach, something very common in my own private culinary experiences as well as being a fundamental component of Mediterranean culinary culture. I believe that sharing food encourages familiarity and conversation with the people around you, ultimately creating the perfect dining experience. On the other

December 2018

chris hammeTt Credit by Tamsin Pace

hand Hammett's Maçina Restaurant also focuses on a tasting concept, however without the sharing. The environment is more formal, more refined and this is matched in the food presentation and service style." Indeed, Hammett's Maçina Restaurant fits perfectly with the richness one will come across at the Design Hotel Cugó Gran Macina Grand Harbour in which the restaurant is situated. After a short pause for a further sip of coffee, we discuss the local food industry. Chris notes that it has come a long way, yet still has a long way to go. He notes that there is a misconception on the market that all good food should be about fine dining. This is totally wrong. The food industry offers various culinary concepts which accommodate the moods and tastes of different clients. Great food can be experienced in a small corner outlet serving some great dishes." He adds that ‘local' has evolved and become more multicultural. "Our team today is made up of great chefs from several countries across the globe from Germany to India to Venezuela. Their imprint on our menu has been impres-

sive and give a new dimension to the food we offer." From a client point of view, it's great to see that people are more knowledgeable. He notes, "Just look at the local wine culture. People want to know the story behind the bottle. The same goes with food. People travel and come across new flavours which they look for in local eateries. I ask Chris, "So what makes an unforgettable dining experience?" to which he promptly replies that it probably boils down to a perfect mix of your mood, the people you are with, general ambience and, of course the food itself. Chris' mobile continues to ring incessantly and I realise he is on his toes to catch up with his daily chores and missed calls. Before concluding our conversation, I ask Chris what he has in store for the year to come. "Every year, we have done a lot and next year is no exception. We are currently working on a new concept which will complement the other projects we have launched over the past years. We are so excited about 2019 as it will see the birth of new concepts to offer to the market.

December 2018

AVIATION American GIN:

wo innovators, Prohibition, and juniper lead to the first American craft gin. At a party in Seattle in 2005, bartender Ryan Magarian was introduced to â&#x20AC;&#x153;summer

ginâ&#x20AC;? by a friend from Portland. Struck by the subtlety of gin with less juniper, he recognized it as a movement away from traditional gin. Equally passionate about his craft, Christian Krogstad founded a craft distillery in Portland, Oregon. With a pioneering spirit, Christian had set out to recreate a uniquely American Gin. But American gins disappeared with Prohibition, so no one knew exactly what they tasted like. Without a precise flight plan, the first bartender/distiller partnership took off.

December 2018

Aviation Gin is the world’s highest rated gin (97 points, Wine Enthusiast) and helped establish a new style of American gin - softer and smoother, with juniper in the background and citrus and floral notes in the front. There are 7 botanicals resulting in more balanced cocktails. Aviation was created by a unique bartender/distiller partnership and is crafted in small batches in Portland, Oregon. Aviation’s unique American-style gin starts with its unique blend of spices, shifting away from the usual overabundance of juniper toward a more forward balance of botanicals. Aviation’s unique blend of botanicals are infused in a neutral spirit, and distilled in a 400-gallon stainless steel still at 173°F. After distillation, the head and tail is removed, retaining the previous heart. Pure Oregon water is added to achieve 84 proof. In February Ryan Reynolds invested in Aviation Gin after tasting it for the first time. “Aviation is the best tasting gin in the world. Once I tried it, I knew I wanted to get involved with the company in a big way.” “If you think all gin tastes the same, you’d be mistaken,” said Reynolds, who enjoys Aviation on the rocks. “Aviation is in a completely different league and I couldn’t be prouder to be a part of the company.” Reynolds is playing an active role in the day-to-day business and oversees creative direction as part of his mission to introduce the world to the great taste of Aviation.

December 2018

The

Art of Flavour

Interview with

Amaury

Guichon, Pastry Art Chef

December 2018

maury Guichon is one of the great icons of cyber pastry, with half a million followers on Instagram. His creations are pure art and influence the industry, set trends in the pastry sector, and are an inspiration to all professionals and pastry enthusiasts. His work ranges from unbelievable architectural designs and gorgeous flowers to life-size chairs and impressive sculptures. The Swiss born genius is today based in Las Vegas, where he amazes people with creations that convey originality as well as technical perfection. Delicious had the honour to discuss with Chef Guichon his intimate relationship with pastry and chocolate, his sources of inspiration and his school project he will launch next year.

Credits to Fiona Bergson

December 2018

AMAURY GUICHON

How did your journey in the world of pastry start off? I started my culinary training at the age of 14 years when I moved to France to begin working in savory (BEP) at the École Hôtelière Savoie Léman, where I trained for two years. The savory sector did not satisfy my passion for the culinary arts and thus decided to move back to Switzerland to pursue training in pastry. I completed and quickly succeeded 2 years of pastry (CAP) at Wolsberg College from 2007-2009. During those two years I was awarded first place in the Apprentice Chocolate Showpiece Contest. Discovering my love for working with chocolate, I moved to Paris to complete and excel in the last portion of pastry education (BTM), at Lenôtre. During my two years there I won the gold medal of “Best Apprentice of France”. In 2011 I returned to Cannes to accept my first leadership role at the Lenôtre shop, where I instructed classes for amateurs and mentored five apprentices. In 2012, I moved back to Paris and accepted the challenge to become the Executive Chef of Hugo & Victor for all three of their locations in Paris. Two years after, I started my career in the United States at the Jean Philippe Patisserie in Las Vegas where I worked for 3 years. In 2017 I decided to branch out on my own again, traveling the world teaching Masterclasses in various Culinary Academies.

Some food critics have defined you a chocolate architect. To what extent do you agree? We live in a world where everything needs to be rationalised. I try to create things that haven’t been done before. I am often inspired by different materials and techniques in fields of work such as clay, wood sculpting, furniture fashion design, glass blowing, so you will see my interpretation of that in pastry.

In a recent interview, you noted "I like to trick the mind by creating things that look like day-to-day objects, such as a watch, an egg, a compass". Can you elaborate? Over the past decades we have noted a considerable shift towards a glamorous approach in pastry development. However, in recent years, pastry is

What inspires your pastry creations? I adore the fact that creativity in pastry is not restricted by rules. You can set free your imagination and develop amazing work inspired by a flavour, an ingredient or an idea. Everything starts from a sketch which is then elaborated by means of several tests until we reach perfection.

With over one million followers across Facebook, Instagram, and Twitter, Chef Amaury is the most followed Pastry Chef on social media in the world. What makes Social Media such an important medium to share your creations? Social media is the best platform to promote your work. It is different from TV which is limited to a select number of people. Social media has a more democratic approach where everyone can reach out to his target audience. December 2018

December 2018

AMAURY GUICHON more focussed on detail. My approach favours this new trend where I can tease the eye with optical illusions often resorting to items we associate with every day life such as a cigar, a fruit, an egg or a Christmas tree.

You have recently launched your book; "The Art of Flavor". What part of your creative mind does the book tell us about? The book is a gourmet adventure through which you will be transported to different continents. The book brings together the ideas that have crossed my mind over a span of twelve months thus touching on the the experiences I came across during the four seasons and in every country visited. The book brings together twelve signature creations with a step-by-step of about sixty recipes and multitudes of techniques.

In what way does teaching others play a fundamental role in your pastry mission and why? I consider myself as an ambassador of my own profession and thus it is my duty to promote the industry and help in the dissemination process through teaching. Technology offers us various tools to help in the promotional and dissemination process especially thanks to social media, TV and other platforms. Nevertheless, education continues to play a fundamental role. Indeed, next year, I will launch my new school where I plan to spend time developing the next generation of pastry chefs.

In what way does the Festive Season exalt your creativity in the kitchen? I wish to spend more time in my very own kitchen yet my busy travelling agenda does not give me the possibility to do so. The seasons do not really inspire me in any particular way yet serve as a guideline on what ingredients, colours and concepts to go for.

Is there any particular pastry you would associate with the festive Season? Christmas brings to my mind the Mont Blanc, one of my favourite French classics with its warm ingredients including chestnut mousseline, crunchy vanilla meringue, mascarpone vanilla whipped cream, almond cream with blackcurrant, blackcurrant coulis and crunchy sweet dough.

What's next for Amaury Guichon? My next step is the launch of a pastry school. The school will not only be limited to masterclasses but to be a fully fledged training centre offering various levels of training. December 2018

The Pleasure of Good Food Interview with

Jessica

Leah, Owner of Jessica Leah Catering

hey say that first impressions are misleading. Despite being 5ft 2â&#x20AC;? Chef Jessica Leah has gone a long way and reached heights others have not even dared dream of. Indeed, Jessica has earned a strong reputation in England for her bespoke dining concept which offers a unique homely culinary experience combined with that touch of detail and perfection which makes it stand out of the crowd. Delicious reached out to Jessica so as to discover more about her work, her approach and her projects in the pipeline for 2019.

December 2018

What attracted you to the world of food? I love to eat! From when I was little I was always keen to cook for myself and my family – although my family weren’t always so keen for me to cook for them! It was when I was having a deep and meaningful chat with a friend, discussing what we’d like to do with our lives, when he asked me, “what do you love?” and I said “food – but how could I make a career out of that?”. The penny dropped and, there and then, I made the decision that I wanted to train to become a chef and I never looked back. The hard graft, long hours and missed social events were easily outweighed by the buzz I got from cheffing.

You were the Executive Chef of Wyatt & Jones. What encouraged you to leave your job and shift to the entrepreneurial world? The opportunity to be Executive Chef of Wyatt & Jones, a restaurant that wasn’t yet open, where I could design the kitchen, create the menus, source my ingredients and hire my own team was one that I couldn’t turn down – even with a one year old baby! The success of Wyatt & Jones was a culmination of a lot of hard work, dedication, creativity and a passion for providing food of the highest quality for every one of our customers. I had four incredible years of success, which included featuring in the Good Food Guide, the Michelin Guide and receiving acclaim from The Times, The Sunday Times, the New York Times and The Traveller magazine, to name but a few. The decision to leave Wyatt & Jones was not an

easy one. The restaurant had been my life for four years, and I had given everything to it. However, I was at a crossroads in my life. My eldest son had started school, which meant he was home evenings and weekends – which are times that chefs are not often home! I also felt that it was time that I did my own thing. Following another heart to heart conversation with a friend and colleague (which seems to be a recurring theme with me!), I felt that there was an opportunity to go out on my own. My aim was to bring the positive aspect of the restaurant experience into people’s homes. Fantastic food served in a more comfortable setting, where those dining receive undivided attention. December 2018

In what way do your Maltese roots fit into your world? I studied to be a chef at college in Malta and, on completion of my course, I soon secured a position at Rebekah’s Restaurant, under Head Chef Daniel Debattista. This was a huge learning curve for me, and I still sometimes look back on what I learnt then, today. I think it is in the nature of the Maltese to feed, and to feed well! The Maltese love a feast and I often find myself suggesting banquet style dining for weddings and events, where everyone serves each other and shares from the centre of the table. This is a great way of bringing people together. Even though I have lived in England for a decade now, I still like to surround myself with touches of Malta around my home. I have pictures of Maltese doors and balconies on my wall, a painting of Valletta waterfront in the hallway and to top it all off, I live by the sea! I also chose my baker because his bread is the most similar to Maltese bread that I could find!

How does a Maltese chef stand out of the crowd on the international scene? At 5ft 2” I never get the opportunity to physically stand out from the crowd! However, I like to think that my cooking puts me on a level playing field. In order to achieve this I have to get my basics right, from properly seasoning to always tasting what I’m producing. Attention to detail is needed at every stage and I never take short cuts. It is also key to use the best ingredients available. In Malta we are fortunate enough to have the most incredible fruit and vegetables, in particular. Ultimately, as a chef, you will be judged on the taste of your food, so you need to make sure you’ve given it every chance to taste amazing. It’s only through producing consistently delicious food that people will start to take notice.

December 2018

Jessica leah

A word of advise for all those chefs considering to open their own business?

What does your kitchen look like during the festive season? At Jessica Leah Catering, Christmas and New Year is our favourite time of the year. December is jam packed with dinners, parties and events. This is a fantastic challenge in itself, however during this period we also offer another special service in madeto-order Beef Wellingtons. Customers order their Beef Wellington to whatever size they require and collect it from my home on Christmas Eve. My kitchen will be full to the brim with puff pastry, crêpes, mushroom duxelles, chicken mousse and beef fillet! This will be the third year we’ve done this and I’m looking forward to seeing so many familiar faces, as well as many new ones. It creates such a festive buzz in my home and it’s wonderful knowing that I’m able to cater for so many people on Christmas day, whilst spending the day with my family.

I would always advise chefs to learn as much as they can from the best before going it on their own. I see many chefs get promoted too quickly and they find that, ultimately, they don’t have the necessary skills or experience to cope with the demands of a higher role. Having your own business is more than just cooking and can be a daunting prospect if you don’t have a good plan and support structure in place. Once you are ready, give it everything you’ve got and it could turn out to be the best decision you ever make.

What’s next for Jessica Leah? Since the company’s inception, the business has grown organically. What started out as an order for a Beef Wellington, turned into a dinner party, which eventually led to a wedding for 250 guests! The unpredictability of the job is one of the things I love the most and, next year alone, we have a full diary of weddings, parties and events – all of which will be completely bespoke to the customer. I don’t go out looking to make big plans, but big plans seem to find me!

December 2018

THE FORMULA OF

E XC E L L E N C E Opening hours throughout the festive season as from 22nd November Vini e Capricci shopping hours: 9AM-7PM | Vinoteca: till 11PM Open All Sundays & Public Holidays. Closed on the 25th of December 2018 and 1st of January 2019.

Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija, Gozo | (+356) 2156 3231 56

December 2018

W W W. A B R A H A M S . C O M . M T

Abraham’s C Festive Season wine selections! 2012 Brunello di Montalcino, “La Cerbaiola » Salvioni, Tuscany, Italy Tasting notes: A very intense and complex nose with notes of ripe red fruits, such as red cherry and black cherry, on a spicy and fresh background of sweet tobacco and aromatic herbs. The palate is smooth, well rounded, with a great structure and sweet integrated tannins. Long, mineral and fruity finish. Pairing: Bistecca Alla Fiorentina served with wild mushrooms and roasted vegetables

2014 Cornas Lieu-dit «Patou » Ferraton Père & Fils, Rhône Valley, France Tasting notes: This wine has a deep and intense ruby color. The nose is rich with aromas of ripe and slightly jammy fruit such as black currant, blueberry and blackberry as well as black pepper and black olive note. The palate is full bodied with a very dense structure, elegant tannins and a great balanced between fruits and oak. Pairing: Rack of lamb served with potato dauphinoise

hristmas is approaching, and most probably you have the menu to share with the people you love. Did you also find the perfect wine to match your meal? It is an important part to create the ideal family experience. Let me help you with a selection of 3 three unique red wines to make this feast a memorable one.

2008 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico, Fracastoro Riserva, Villa Bella, Veneto, Italy Tasting notes: Intense notes of fresh violets, followed by bitter chocolate, charming fresh cherries and forest fruits. Dry, rounded, and velvety, it is very wellstructured and mouth-filling. It offers great persistence on the palate. Pairing: Venison loin, celeriac purée, braised radicchio and blood oranges. It is splendid drunk just on its own, as a wine for accompanying conversation with friends. After a few years ageing, it can even be served to accompany top-quality chocolate!

Where to find it: Abraham's Supplies Co Ltd - Vini e Capricci Gozitano Agricultural Village, Mgarr Road, Xewkija, Gozo Article wrote by FABIEN ETIENNE a sommelier and wine consultant based in Malta. M: +356 9938 8088 E: fetienne.wine@gmail.com FB: https://www.facebook.com/fe.consultant/

December 2018

Credit by V. Hoegger 58

December 2018

gastronomic

Experience

Interview with

Andreas

Caminada, Owner and chef de cuisine of Schloss Schauenstein, FĂźrstenau

wiss chef, Andreas Caminada is the youngest three-star chef in Europe and considered by many as a genius and one of the major exponents of the international culinary industry. His work is impressive and conveys his mastery to create amazing dishes. Every plate is a celebration of food and conveys Chef Caminada's distinctive sense of aesthetics and his love for detail. Above all, dining at his restaurant, Schloss Schauenstein, in the valley Domleschg, Switzerland, is a unique culinary experience, which revolves around a respectful approach to fresh ingredients, clean flavours and vibrant colours. Chef Caminada shared with us his gastronomic journey, his food philosophy and his upcoming projects.

December 2018

What attracted you to the world of food? My passion for cooking was born at teenager age. I realized my interest for gastronomy and hospitality during an internship. So I started dreaming of being a chef and began my apprenticeship. Afterwards I got the chance to work in Vancouver for a year which was a great experience at the time as the variety of food and restaurants over there were very impressing. It broadened my horizon and pushed me to follow my career with a lot of enthusiasm.

Credit by Oriani Oregoni

Critics have recently noted that your refined style could be compared to any postmodern artist. To what extent do you agree? I donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t know who has said that but it is a nice compliment. Maybe it has to do with my signature style of plating â&#x20AC;&#x201C; the way that we arrange many different preparations of one simple ingredient so that it looks like art on fine porcelain. Good flavour of course is essential, but the way we plate the food is also a very important part of our dinner experience.

In what way is your kitchen inspired by French cuisine? I love the big sauces and the French process of preparation. This is due to my training in French based kitchens and that will always be the foundation, our basics, on which we build up our own cooking style. 60

December 2018

ANDREAS CAMINADA

www.mazagafruit.com

Fruit & Vegetable Market, Imports Fruit Section No. 13, Ta Qali, Attard. Tel: +356 2143 4668 Fax: +356 2141 8025 December 2018

Credit by Oriani Oregoni

You have often noted that food should be a sensory journey that leaves a lasting impression. Can you elaborate? I always knew exactly how my restaurant would – and should – be: I wanted it to be an all-round experience for the guest, something that transcends mere cuisine. I like my dishes to have an immediate accessibility that pleases all the senses. The same goes for the surroundings. Everything at Schloss Schauenstein is designed to contribute to an overall sensual experience. The work behind the restaurant, the quality of service, the way of preparing the dishes with a lot of effort and love, the fresh and best possible products, the passion for hospitality and design – all details blended together make the perfect fine dining experience. Today, as in former days as well, our culture, childhood 62

December 2018

memories and local culinary traditions are vital sources of inspiration for a kitchen team and a good method to immediately touch or surprise diners with your food.

In what way can a plate exalt our senses? Food is unique as it is important for everyone. Regardless of culture, religion or nationality it is a nourishment for the body and the soul. A good meal cannot only touch all senses; it also serves a greater good. It brings people together and has the power to build bridges between cultures and nations.

How do you preserve the original spirit of cuisine while applying limitless creativity to a dish? I prefer to work with rather simple and generally familiar ingredients – but I use them in many different ways and combine various classic and modern

RUMMO 80 x 210 mm.pdf 1 14/06/2018 16:25:31

ANDREAS CAMINADA

preparations of one single ingredient in order to create a multifaceted cuisine. Moreover, I find it impossible to rest on one’s laurels in the top league. We always want to become better, more innovative, more focused, and tastier than the day before. Yesterday’s achievements are today’s baseline for tomorrow’s creativity.

Rummo Lenta Lavorazione is the only pasta to be approved by the Italian Cooks Federation.

What role does Fundaziun Uccelin play in providing Support to Young Chefs? A very important role to me! It is my dream to share my love for food as well as to inspire and foster the next generation of talented chefs. That’s why I founded my foundation, Fundaziun Uccelin, back in 2015. Until today, already 20 young talents have completed our program, travelled the world and learned from the best chefs worldwide.

What is next on your agenda?

We are in the midst of a really exciting and busy year. We just opened our Casa Caminada next to Schloss Schauenstein in Fürstenau a few weeks ago. The new guesthouse is dedicated to my home region Graubünden, its culture and food. Besides 10 new guestrooms we now have a casual restaurant for local specialties and our own wood-oven bakery. The last 2 weeks I was travelling through Asia with my IGNIV team where we organized IGNIV pop-up dinners in 4 bustling cities like Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur and Singapore together with St. Regis. Next and very close to my heart is the start of a new cooperation between my foundation Fundazion Uccelin and the Swiss organization Smiling Gecko. Smiling Gecko takes great efforts helping people in need in Cambodia with sustainable projects like a school, agriculture, manufactories and a farmhouse hotel. All our Uccelin students will take part and engage themselves because we think it is very important not only to learn for life but also to give back experience to the community in order to achieve a greater good.

CMY

{ Follow us on Facebook } Trade enquiries: 2180 2554 or info@sogood.com.mt

December 2018

Rabbit Risotto,

liver, candied peas, æbejna shavings

Ingredients 2 rabbit legs 1 finely chopped onion 1 finely chopped carrot 1 celery stalk 1 tsp tomato paste 1 tsp mixed spice 1 cup red wine Fresh thyme sprigs 3 cups chicken stock 2 cups Arborio rice 3 spoons butter 1 spoon grated Parmesan cheese Rabbit liver Fresh peas 1 spoon butter 1 teaspoon icing sugar Fresh æbejna Extra virgin olive oil Fresh seasoning Pea shoots

Method  Season the rabbit thighs with salt and pepper and seal in hot olive oil until golden.  Add the vegetables except for the fresh peas and pea shoots, stir in the tomato paste, herbs and spices and splash with the wine.  Pour in the stock and simmer until meat falls off the bone. Remove and discard the bone.  Cook your risotto using the obtained sauce. Finish with a knob of cold butter and grated Parmesan cheese.  Pan fry the liver in hot extra virgin olive oil. Season with salt and pepper.  Glaze the fresh peas in butter and icing sugar, scatter over the plated risotto, garnish with the liver and pea shoots. Serve with æbejna shavings.

December 2018

€28

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THE

HAMPER

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ORDER YOUR HAMPER GIFTS ONLINE THIS FESTIVE SEASON www.christmashampers.com.mt Email: hampers@attardco.com.mt 68

December 2018

Foo d Ltd

Phone: 2569 2801

or visit us at: Canter Business Centre, Patri Felicjan Bilocca Street, Marsa, Malta Victoria Gates, Fortunato Mizzi Street, Victoria, Gozo

AARON's Kitchen

Grilled Octopus

with Calamari

Ingredients

Method

800grms octopus Slice of lemon and orange Fresh thyme and rosemary 2 calamari 1 bell pepper Finely sliced shallot Garlic clove 6 cherry tomatoes, halved Fresh basil leaves Small glass of white wine 2 spoons tomato sauce 8 black olives Extra virgin olive oil Fresh seasoning

 Fill and heat a large stockpot with water, and add in the octopus when water is boiling . Cook gently until octopus is fully tender.  When ready, remove the octopus and let it cool. Marinate and coat well with the lemon, orange, thyme, rosemary, salt, pepper and extra virgin olive oil.  Heat grill on high. Grill the octopus until perfectly browned and crisp.  Clean and cut the calamari into thick chunks, put in a hot sauté pan with olive oil and start browning.  Stir in the shallots, garlic and bell pepper, cook for a further 2 minutes, splash in the wine and simmer.  Spoon in the tomato sauce, the olives, sprinkle with the basil leaves, salt, pepper and divide between 2 plates. Serve the grilled octopus over the calamari. Garnish with the cherry tomatoes and fresh seasoning.

December 2018

Credit to Alena Vasileva 70

December 2018

The

Art of Wheel Throwing

Credit to Luke Azzopardi, Taro at the Villa

Interview with

Sue

Mifsud, Owner of Sue Mifsud Ceramics

hilst dining at a local eatery you will easily come across Sue Mifsud's imprint. Whether it is an original plate or a distinct cup, Sue's touch is visible on any dining table. Her work stems out for its pronounced earth colours and for the impressive detail each item encapsulates. Every concept she works on is a work of art which highlights the passion and drive Sue has for her profession. Busy preparing her endless list of orders, Sue shared with us her love for wheel throwing, her plans for the future, and how her product creates a perfect match with food.

December 2018

Credit to Sue Mifsud

December 2018

SUE MIFSUD

What attracted you to the art of wheel throwing? There are few things in life more satisfying than seeing a piece of clay perfectly centred on a potterâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s wheel and being transformed from a mud like blob to a recognisable functional object. The clay will initially be misshaped from kneading it, to remove any air from the body and create a spiral pattern in the clay particles, and with the correct amount of pressure applied through the potters hands the clay is then manipulated through a series of well practised techniques into an object that will have purpose. Although the full making process from raw clay to ceramic object is lengthy the initial making stage is relatively quick which I find very gratifying, my short attention span is happy with this working arrangement. There are a couple of working methods in ceramics used to produce functional ware e.g. slip casting and hand building, but throwing is the most a person will be involved with the medium and is by far the dirtiest which appeals to my tactile nature.

Do you feel the wheel throwing profession is in danger of extinction or an art which is gradually gaining popularity? In 2010 Glasgow School of Art, where I was studying for my degree, closed its ceramics department, it was the last ceramics department offering degree level education in Scotland. At that stage I could see ceramists becoming a dying breed and wondered about the fate of the medium, but then in November 2015 The Great British Throw Down aired its first series on BBC. Although I wasnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t fond of the competition element of the programme it did trigger a great deal of interest in the general public who were already used to the same format on the Great British Bake Off. Many more international news articles began to appear about people taking up pottery and in the ceramics circle we heard of an increased interest in classes. As a back lash to our current IT driven world I think people are also starting to look for interests that reconnect them with tradition and working with clay not only does that but is a very meditative, grounding pass time. In short I think there has been a revival but am not sure just how many opt for throwing which requires a different skill set to hand building.

December 2018

What does texture mean to you? I associate texture with stories. When I renovated my studio I had the multiple layers of paint and plaster removed from the walls and for weeks after completion I would find myself starring at them. Like most Maltese limestone walls they have amazing tool marks, some made by hand tools some from machines but each indicate how the stones were shaped and placed to create the rooms. These are by-products of building, what I do is intentional to add my story to a piece of work. I have used a snake skin, picked up whilst walking through Buskett Forest, Maltese bread which is so basic in our eating habits, feathers, ashes, I know where each comes from and it allows me to work in my own voice.

I read you mix your own glazes. Why is it so important to have a personal imprint on the raw material? I like to have control over my work from the design stages, through making, drying and firing and this includes making my own glazes and experimenting with colours. It makes life more difficult than buying ready made off the shelf and probably, physically mixing all the raw materials is my least favourite task, but seeing the results is very rewarding. These colours also become part of my signature and identifies work as mine. 74

December 2018

What window does social media offer you to showcase your talent? I have a love/hate relationship with social media. It’s a wonderful way of getting your work to viewers and I like to use it in a light hearted way which seems to bring like minded folk in my direction. My photographic skills have improved a lot because of it and I have become connected with a fabulous variety of very talented people including other artists and excellent chefs. My website has become almost redundant because of social media as it is so easy to update, immediately reach people and in return receive reactions. Because of social media I have sold to America, Canada, Israel, Georgia and a good few places in Europe. The down side is that you are constantly reachable and work never seems to shut down, small price to pay though I guess.

How does your work marry well with food? That’s an interesting question and I guess I just have the right aesthetics. I don’t like wildly glazed splashed surfaces and that also doesn’t compliment food, it interferes with presentation. I use textures a lot as we discussed but I like them to be subtle background features to be discovered so again they don’t interfere with plating. With designing and creating work for restaurants there is a long mating period where I get to

SUE MIFSUD

know chefs and restaurant owners well so that I get a feel for what they want and what food will be served. I still find it extremely exciting going through this phase and being open to new ideas with the passionate characters I meet.

In your website, you make reference to functional ware. What is your definition of functional? It’s basically what it says on the label – objects that carry out a function. It could be a mug holding tea, a plate for starters, a bowl for soup. All of these items are functional and serve a practical purpose as opposed to sculptural work which is also created with clay.

Many catering outlets have your imprint. What added value does a bespoke product offer to a catering outlet? I work with extremely talented chefs and I can feel the enthusiasm they have for food is the same as I have for clay. When they are creating a dish they are looking at every aspect of the eating experience from ingredients, taste, texture to the dinnerware they are going to use for presentation. My hand made work, as with all hand made ceramics, has a different appearance, feel, weight, and even sound to mass produced functional ware. If a client is eating off studio ceramics they know that the chef has gone that extra mile to present the food to them. They are also guaranteed a personalised design adding to the unique quality of the meal and ensuring that it is in harmony with the interior design and personality of the establishment. My regular clients also like to visit restaurants that I make for, people with a genuine interest in hand made objects also seem to enjoy quality dining.

How would you express Christmas in a ceramic or pottery item? Shoot me if I ever produce a Christmas themed ceramic item. I’m not very main stream when it comes to themed work, I see the world from a very off centre view point and cringe at the thought of something December 2018

December 2018

SUE MIFSUD

Credit to Sue Mifsud

which would openly represent Christmas for other people. Last year I was asked to produce a large series of items with a religious theme as Christmas presents. The final item was a ceramic soy wax burner with an associate of mine making a frankincense and myrrh scented soy wax melt. Christmas trees and Rudolph aren’t really my thing.

What's next on your agenda? Winter has always been my busiest time of year. I’m currently working on two new designs for two

restaurants, have a dinner set to make for a private client and another couple of private commissions. I don’t chase work and have been extremely lucky to have had a constant flow of business since becoming self employed four years ago. My business has grown organically with me having very little say, it has been shaped by the clients that have approached me and taken me in very interesting and exciting directions. It would be pointless of me to map out a direction I would want to head in as I never know who will be calling next and what they will want me to create.

December 2018

PROJECT PART-FINANCED BY THE EUROPEAN UNION

Every bag has its day Check the collection schedule for your locality. Stick to the collection time and make sure every bag is visible.

Freephone 8007 2200 www.wasteservmalta.com

Operational Programme l – European Structural and Investment Funds 2014 – 2020 “Fostering a competitive and sustainable economy to meet our challenges” Project part-financed by the Cohesion Fund Co-financing rate: 85% European Union; 15% National Funds

Time to think differently about your waste

he recent introduction of the nationwide organic waste collection is slowly but surely bringing about a change in the way people think about â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;wasteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;. This word has connotations of useless, unwanted items that are thoughtlessly discarded. But as materials become scarcer and our planet is increasingly strained, we must realise that all products have the potential to become another resource: it all depends on how we treat them. In a bid to further facilitate waste separation at source, besides the organic waste bin, residents are now encouraged to collect a set of four stackable bins. These bins have different coloured lids; black for mixed waste, white for sanitary waste, brown for glass, and green for mixed recyclables. The bins are

also specifically labelled to help households separate waste correctly. As part of the SORT IT OUT campaign, waste collection schedules specific to each locality are currently being distributed to all households across Malta and Gozo. The public is encouraged to take out the right bag on the right day, and not more than four hours prior to the official collection time indicated on the schedule. It is important to avoid piling of waste bags, in order to keep the small white bag clearly visible. Any bags taken out on the wrong day or having the wrong content will not be collected and a sticker is used to communicate the reason behind this. Such bags are expected to be taken out again on the correct day of collection. For further information visit Wasteservâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Facebook page https://www.facebook.com/wasteserv and url: www.wasteservmalta.com

December 2018

The

Mexican Roots

Interview with

Aarón

Sánchez, Celebrity Chef, Restauranteur, Cookbook Author and Philanthropist

December 2018

exican-American chef Aarón Sánchez is one of the biggest names in the Latin American chef community and in the culinary world at large. Indeed, Chef Sánchez is known by many for his prowess with Mexican and Latin American cuisine as well as for his mother, Zarela, one of New York’s most celebrated Mexican chefs. As a popular contemporary Latin chef, Aarón Sánchez has many feathers in his cap, including his role as judge on Master Chef and his food empire with restaurants, television shows and cookbooks over two decades. Delicious caught up with Chef Sánchez to discuss his Mexican origins, the secrets behind Mexican food and his next steps in his food journey.

December 2018

AARÓN SÁNCHEZ

How did your journey in the world of food start? I am a third generation cookbook author, my abuela and mom were both Chefs, so it started when I was a kid in El Paso. I helped my mom with her catering business and then at her restaurant when we moved to New York, so I’ve been surrounded by this industry most of my life.

You are the son of the legendary Mexican cooking authority Zarela Martinez. What role did your mother, Zarela Martinez, have on your culinary path? She gave me a lot of guidance and support, I remember her telling me to make sure I found my culinary voice and point of view early on. She always encouraged me to be creative, expressive and educated so that I could reach my full potential.

In a recent interview, you noted that, "the reason I enjoy food so much is because it brings me back to my family and culture." Can you elaborate? I feel a deep connection to my legacy and culture, I am always trying to honour that through my food. I am now going back to the recipes that my abuela made and using those as inspiration for a lot of the dishes I make.

What were the major obstacles you had to overcome in becoming a chef? I was a typical teenager in that I started getting into some trouble and needed structure, and the kitchen gave that to me although it was a big adjustment at first. One of the hardest things was realizing that owning a restaurant didn’t just mean coming up with cool new recipes all the time, but it meant understanding business and finances and being able to manage staff.

December 2018

AARÓN SÁNCHEZ Balancing my work and personal life has always been a struggle due to this industry’s grueling hours, and that’s something I am still working on today.

I read you never planned to become a celebrity chef. So how did you become a celebrity chef? I just thought TV would be a good way to promote my restaurant, that’s all I ever wanted, was to have a successful business and to be my own boss. None of us at that time knew what we were getting into or how huge food television would become. I just kept taking the gigs that came my way and after 20 years in the business, I have seen how this turned from what most thought was a fad into an incredibly profitable industry.

You are a restaurateur, television celebrity chef, consultant, spokesperson and author. How do you juggle such a busy agenda? I try to stay grounded by scheduling personal and family time the way I do work, once it’s in the calendar, it’s locked in. I also surround myself with supportive, energetic, positive people that keep me going when I am tired and have been on the road for a long time. I’m constantly re-evaluating my priorities both professionally and personally so that I continue to grow as a creative person, a family man and a business owner.

In a recent interview, you noted that, "the reason I enjoy food so much is because it brings me back to my family and culture." Can you elaborate? I find cooking to be incredibly nostalgic. I find myself emulating recipes and techniques that have been passed down for generations in my family, and I am teaching my son those same recipes and techniques today. For me, Mexican cuisine represents family tradition and authenticity. And that’s why I’ve been partnered with Cacique – the number 1 brand of authentic Mexican-style cheeses, creams and chorizos in the U.S. – for close to ten years. They share the same commitment to quality and to maintaining the cultural links to the products.

What is the biggest misconception people have about Mexican cuisine? The most common misconception about Mexican cuisine is that it’s all just tacos and Tex-Mex. There’s so much more depth and complexity to Mexican food. I partnered with Cacique to celebrate the profound impact Mexican culture and cuisine has in America by spotlighting what’s next in the world of Mexican cuisine – and it’s more than just tacos! My top three predictions for Mexican cuisine in 2019 are: 1) A more regional approach to Mexican food, where people can experience the diversity and flavours of different regions through their meal. 2) Mexican barbecue (Barbacoa) will rise to the top as a cooking technique. 3) A more modern approach to Mexican cuisine that relies

December 2018

AARÓN SÁNCHEZ

on traditional Mexican ingredients – like Queso Fresco and chorizos – will reign supreme. Inspired by my trend predictions, I developed a Short Rib Barbacoa with Creamed “Street Corn” and Blistered Padron Peppers recipe, featuring Cacique Queso Fresco and Crema Mexicana: https://www. caciqueinc.com/recipes/barbacoa-style-short-ribs-withcreamed-street-corn-and-blistered-padron-peppers/

How do you think the perception of Mexican food has changed on an international scale over the past years? Mexico has become a more popular travel destination, so people are experiencing first hand truly authentic Mexican dishes and flavours. There is also a much larger range of Mexican products available these days in grocery stores and restaurants. You can find

Cacique’s Queso Fresco in supermarkets all over the country. Because of all of this, the average consumer is becoming much more educated than they were in the past.

Define Latin food in three words. Flavourful, colourful, and complex.

What is next on your agenda? I am very excited to grow my scholarship foundation, we are empowering Latin youth to become the next generation of leaders in the culinary world by sending them to culinary school at ICC. We are working on expanding to new markets and I am so thrilled to mentor these young aspiring chefs so that they can go back and enrich their communities. For more information visit http://aaronsanchezscholarshipfund. com/ December 2018

AARÓN SÁNCHEZ

Calablacitas con Queso

Ingredients

Calablacitas

Cilantro-Cotija Pesto

2 thick slices bacon, preferably maple cured 1 garlic clove, very finely chopped 1 pound zucchini, cut into large dice 1 large tomato, cored, seeded and diced 1 scallion, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon Cilantro-Cotija Pesto ½ cup crumbled queso blanco (preferable Cacique) Freshly squeezed lime juice Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 cup unsalted raw or roasted pumpkin seeds ½ bunch fresh cilantro, stems trimmed 2 inches from the bottom 1 cup fresh basil leaves 1 cup olive oil, plus extra for storage ½ serrano chile or 1 jalapeno, coarsely chopped (include seeds for additional spice) 2 garlic cloves, coarsely chopped ½ crumbled cotija (preferably Cacique brand) or shredded pecorino or Parmesan Salt and freshly ground black pepper

December 2018

Method  In a large skillet, cook the bacon until crisp and brown, approximately 5 minutes. Remove bacon and let rest on a paper towel lined plate. When cool enough to handle, dice the bacon and set aside.  Using the same pan with the reserve bacon fat, add the garlic and set it over medium heat. Cook the garlic for approximately 1 minute, until it starts to turn golden brown. Add the zucchini and cook, stirring occasionally, until the zucchini has softened slightly, about 3 minutes. Add the tomato and scallion and cook until the tomato begins to break down, about 5 minutes.  Take the skillet off the heat and stir in the CilantroCotjia Pesto and queso blanco until the cheese starts to melt. Season with lime juice, salt and pepper to taste. Top with bacon and serve immediately. Cilantro-Cotija Pesto  Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F  Spread the pumpkin seeds in an even layer on a dry baking sheet. Put the sheet in the oven and bake, checking them and shaking the pan every 3 minutes, until they start to dance, puff up and brown lightly, about 10 minutes. Take the pan out of the oven, transfer the seeds to a bowl and let cool to room temperature.  Put the cilantro, basil and olive oil into a food processor, and puree for 2 minutes. Add the chile, garlic, pumpkin seeds and cotija and pulse until you have a coarse puree. Season with salt and pepper to taste.  To store, put it into a container with a tight-fitting lid and pour ¼ inch of olive oil over the surface to keep out the air. Each time you use it, stir that oil in, and replace with another ¼ inch of oil before closing the container, this makes an airtight seal that will keep it tasting fresh for up to 10 days.

December 2018

CollectiVE

Approach Interview with

Steven

Agius, Executive Chef

Credit by Jean CalĂŹ

December 2018

alta's culinary excellence is well represented in the Middle East region thanks to the capable hands and the creative mind of Chef Steven Agius. Steven's curriculum is impressive and conveys his constant quest for detail and precision in every single dish prepared. His work is cased on a collective effort which exalts the abilities of the various team members. Delicious met up with Chef Agius to discuss his journey in the world of food, his experience in Dubai and his plans for the future.

What attracted you to the world of food? Blame it on my mother....it's her fault!! I used to love watching her preparing our meals and tasting them too whilst in the making!! At a very tender age, I had already identified the 3 must-have factors in my food: piping hot temperatures, textures and seasoning. What comes to mind is the top layer of her mqarrun il-forn (oven baked pasta) and those individual pasta tubes, nicely browned, crunchy and piping hot, that I just had to steal....it used to drive her nuts, so run while you can if she saw you doing that...

December 2018

How would you define your approach and style? Well... 2 answers to this question. My working approach: I always learnt that a good team is as good as its leader. No excellence can be achieved on ones own, unless you are at a game of chess or tennis. My working style is simple and has proved effective: be there, be with (your team), and anticipate your teams' and guests' needs. That's what you will be remembered for. My cooking approach and style: is defined by the territory I'm working in, always respecting the culture, traditions and the local people. So it all depends who I'm cooking for and their preferences. My style would follow suite.

What lies behind your decision to move to Dubai? Having had the opportunity to work in Malta, followed by small boutique hotels in Germany and Switzerland, my next ambitions pointed me towards large scale challenges. Dubai, with its very fast evolving and upcoming culinary trends, was the perfect ingredient for my recipe. One of my dreams was to work for the Jumeirah Group, owners and operators of the world famous Burj Al Arab Hotel. I have never looked back since.

How would you describe your adaptation process? Was it a bumpy ride or a smooth one? Undoubtedly, change always brings new levels of challenges and some bumps along the way are inevitable. One needs time, a good proportion of determination and willingness to succeed. So yes, it was not a smooth adaptation process in its entirety, but my employers, colleagues and friends in Dubai did play an important part in transitioning smoothly, I must say... and it's been a good ride so far!!!

Some food critics describe you as innovative, creative, open minded and understanding. To what extent do you agree? In hospitality or better still, within the culinary sector, most of our traits have to be just like our knives: sharp, clean, organised and always ready to go. So creativity, innovation and open mindedness, run in parallel. 92

December 2018

Does Malta still fit in one way or another in your work? I am naturally open minded and in life, one must live with a NEVER SAY NEVER credo.

Looking at Malta from the outside, do you feel the food industry has changed? Yes indeed, I believe Malta has gained a lot since the past 15 years. Clearly there is a plethora of different cuisines these days; however it is also very important to be consistent and keep excellent standards when it comes to quality. Competition ensures just that. It is extremely good to see that our young Maltese chefs are taking up the challenge locally and creating little gems of restaurants around the islands. I've had the pleasure to work and train with a handful of this ever growing young talent in my previous working experience here in Malta. This, in itself, is a great achievement and a very satisfying reward! Keep looking forward boys... (you know who you are).

How does the Festive Season inspire your creativity? At Christmas we must always keep to tradition, but sometimes we have to take a step back in time and look through some forgotten recipes and traditions and together with my teams, bring them back to life. So we do our utmost to create or rather re-create something bygone into life once again. This always inspires us to push our boundaries forward.

How does your kitchen look like during this time of the year? Managing large scale kitchens, makes it indeed one of the busiest time of the year. One would perhaps expect chaos; however this is definitely not the rule of the day. My teams are trained in such a way to cope with very large volumes. And yes we make it look festive too... especially in my office :):):):):).

What's next? An exciting project in the baking (making) :):):).

STEVEN AGIUS

December 2018

he Krups Espresseria is a fully automatic bean-to-cup coffee machine. Compact and robust, it makes perfect coffee every time. Just add the coffee beans and at a touch of a button, the machine does the rest, to give you coffee lovers the best espressos and cappuccinos. No mess, no fuss. You cannot get fresher and better tasting coffee than this. The beans which contain the full flavour are grounded instantly to capture the full flavour and give you the perfect espresso cup after cup. German compact sleek design. As usual Krups delight in the details to make this machine look impressive and stand out in any kitchen. The quality and build here too is a work of art. Krups Patented Compact Thermoblock System is a unique feature for coffee machines to heat water to the optimal temperature quickly for consistently hot coffee from the first to the last cup and prevents less limescale build up. It has an automatic cleaning and rinse function and the stainless steel conical burr bean grinder is precise in producing the best coffee grind and captivate the flavour of the beans instantly. If you are looking for instant perfect tasting espresso,this is the machine you want.

December 2018

21488160Â www.aamizzi.com

The Family Spirit

The Glenfarclas Distillery was established in 1836, on the Recherlich Farm at Ballindalloch, in the heart of Speyside. The licence was originally held by Robert Hay, who was the tenant farmer. However, after his death the farm and the distillery were left vacant and this attracted the attention of John Grant. The Grant family were prominent local cattle breeders, who were looking for an ideal halfway staging post between their farm in Glenlivet, and the market in nearby Elgin. The cattle drovers and workmen certainly enjoyed the sustenance of a dram of Glenfarclas.

n the 1890’s, John and George Grant formed their own company, J.& G. Grant. After many years of hard work and shrewd accounting, the future of Glenfarclas had been secured, and the family’s reputation firmly established. A rival distiller wrote to the Grant family in May, 1912: “of all the whiskies, malt is king, of all the kings, Glenfarclas reigns supreme”. The 1920’s saw the retirement of John Grant, and George continued to run the distillery. So on to 1948, which is remembered as the ‘year of the party’; a social milestone for the Grant family that celebrated several anniversaries, even though the date did not coincide with any of them! At this time it was mistakenly believed that the distillery was first established in 1845, and once the war was over, George saw fit to hold a centenary celebration. Today, the Distillery’s reputation is well regarded around

the world. In March 2006 Glenfarclas was named Distiller of the Year by Whisky Magazine “for being consistently good and staying true to its core values”. In 2011 the Distillery celebrated 175 years of licensed distilling, with a ceilidh in Warehouse 14, a Royal visit, and the publication of ‘Glenfarclas – An Independent Distillery’ by Ian Buxton. Today the Grant family continue to act as custodians of the Glenfarclas Distillery, and remain committed to the principle of producing superior quality Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky.

From the Grain to the Glass Glenfarclas is renowned for its traditional full bodied and well sherried style, and is only ever released at natural colour. To produce Glenfarclas Single Highland Malt Scotch Whisky, these three essential ingredients are required: pure spring water, malted barley, and yeast. Only the finest ingredients, combined with the unique size and shape of the copper pot stills, traditional distillation methods, the specially selected oak casks, and the style and location of the warehouses, are all important factors determining the final unique character of Glenfarclas. The Glenfarclas range consists of the 10 Years Old, 12 Years Old, 15 Years Old, 17 Years Old, 21 Years Old, 25 Years Old, 30 Years Old, 40 Years Old and ‘105’ cask strength. The most recent selection, The Family Casks (launched in 2007) are a unique collection single cask, cask strength whiskies. The current range comprises one cask from every year from 1954 to 2001. Glenfarclas Single Highland Malt Scotch Whisky continues to impress the tasting panels at both national and international competitions, year after year. Confirming the words of a great rival distiller in 1912, “of all the whiskies malt is king – of all the kings Glenfarclas reigns supreme.” December 2018

December 2018

RISING

Star

Interview with

Isabella

Potì, Co-Owner at Bros'

t such a very young age, Chef Isabella Potì has quite a lot under her belt.The incredibly talented 22-year old Isabella, was recently listed in Forbes’ 30 under 30 (Europe) and named one of the 10 most influential women in Italian cuisine. Born in Rome, to a Polish mother and a father from Lecce, she has always shown a keen interest in cooking especially pastry. Over the past years, Isabella has furthered her pastry skills with the likes of chef Claude Bosi in London and the Basque chefs Berasategui and Paco Torreblancas. She now pursues her passion for pastry in the kitchen of Bros' in Lecce (which she co-owns with her boyfriend, Floriano Pellegrino) where she creates amazing modern and classic concepts. Chef Potì shared with us her passion for pastry, her learning experience with leading chefs in the industry and her projects in the pipeline.

December 2018

ISABELLA POTĂ&#x152;

How did your passion for pastry develop?

What role did Claude Bosi play in your development?

I have always been linked to the world of cooking with a particular propensity to sweets. During my trips to Poland (my mother's country of origin) I often spent my days gathering strawberries in my grandmother's garden. Returning home we prepared sweets that I then tried to replicate, yet must admit I did not achieve great results. I then grew up without ever giving up the desire to learn, to experiment and to nurture a passion that I understood by time, would be my job. My entire journey, study and life, has been uniquely oriented to achieve my biggest dream: to become a food professional and become a multi-purpose chef. And here I am, with the same desire and determination of when I was still a child!

I met Claude Bosi, when I was only 18 years old, with a year already spent working with Floriano Pellegrino, my chef and life partner; I was therefore ready for the sacrifice and the 18 hours of work without stopping. The experience at Hibiscus has served to first hand experience of what it entails to work in a 2 Michelin stars restaurant, even if for me it was and is worth 3 stars!!! As I love to repeat, and as Floriano constantly teaches us, to become "great" we must be with the "big", and in fact it was the way of working of chef Bosi, the determining factor of my growth. The imprint that he has left most in my growth, is the technique, constancy and the classical bases from which nothing in our industry can prescind. December 2018

In what way do desserts help you relax? I love to relax doing all kinds of desserts, but especially those I prepare while I'm at home ... that's real relaxation!!!

In 2017, you were named by Forbes magazine as one of its "30 under 30". In what way has such a prestigious title helped you seek further heights in your career? Forbes was a great recognition, as well as a huge satisfaction. I have not changed that much since that day, but I have certainly developed a greater awareness of what I was at that precise moment and what I might have been in the future. I realized that my work was having the right perception and resonance; that the hard work of every day, the sacrifices, the determination and constancy make it possible to obtain the pre-established results and perhaps even more than we can ever imagine.

In what way are you and Floriano's roles complimentary at Bros'? Sharing the work environment, as much as the roof of your home, can sometimes be very complicated. Floriano and I, however, have become a couple only after I started working at Bros' and this has allowed us to clearly distinguish the work environment from the domestic environment. Bros' is a project in which I took over when work was already in progress: everything was created by my chef and only later I took part in a substantial way that is why the distinction of roles becomes simple.

100

December 2018

One of your most-used Instagram hashtags is #millennialistheanswer. Can you tell us more about it? #millennialistheanswer indicates what we currently represent, namely the new generation. In fact, we are the answer!!! This is a real generational divide. In todayâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s world, one must assert himself not with words but only and exclusively with the facts and hard work. We are the generation of "doers" and not "moaners", we are those who with a sense of sacrifice, with persistent determination and consistency reach all the dreams that we keep in the drawer.

What concept lies at the heart of Bros'? The concept at the heart of Bros' is what our chef has always embodied: to move the center of gravity of world gastronomy in southern Italy. With the daily work we try to bring to our land, in our own way, all that we have collected and seen from our travels around the world; we shape all this with what the territory offers us, but bringing it to very high levels.

In a recent interview you noted that at Bros', "We keep our traditions, but we make them new." Can you elaborate? We try to study tradition: we study it in depth and we codify it so that same codification can be used in a modern and contemporary way. We do not distort it, but we create something new that can represent us in depth without upsetting the tradition from which we started.

ISABELLA POTĂ&#x152;

In what way does the Festive Season fit into Bros' kitchen? We at Bros' have a true visceral relationship with what the seasons are and with all that periodically they offer us. Bros' changes its menu four times a year, that is to say with every change of season. It is important for us that in all our dishes the protagonist is the ingredient that the earth, in that exact moment in history, gives us ... we limit ourselves to simply exalt the essence!!! The Christmas holidays have their importance for us too: with all the foreign guys who work in our brigade, it's really nice to be able to share traditions and celebrations that they do not even know about.

What's next? We have many future projects. Some are still in their embryonic phase whilst many others are taking more and more shape. The first project in the pipeline is the opening of the new Bros' Spostare in a location that is up to standard with what we are building. We want to open my pastry shop and a restaurant that resumes, always in a contemporary way, what Floriano and his mother did, when he was a boy, in the family farm in Scorrano ... another return to our origins!!!

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The Festive Season at Corinthia Hotel St Georgeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Bay Experience the magic of Christmas at Corinthia. From sparkling festive dinners to relaxing Spa offers, our specialist team has ensured that every detail is taken care of.

CORINTHIA HOTEL ST GEORGE'S BAY, ST. JULIANS, STJ 3301, MALTA +356 2137 4114 | FESTIVITIES.STGEORGES@CORINTHIA.COM | CORINTHIA.COM/STGEORGES 102

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Make it a

Corinthia Christmas…

It’s the most wonderful time of the year, and what better way to celebrate than with a touch of Corinthia magic? From sparkling festivities to opulent private events, all the way to soothing spa and afternoon tea offerings, there’s a little something happening for every taste at Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay this festive season. From mulled wine and Christmas treats, to a decadent Christmas Afternoon Tea, all the way to holiday cocktails at Henry J. Bean’s, this year’s festive calendar kicks off on the 15th December and seeks to bring together friends and family in a brilliant atmosphere, with even better food and drink. If you’re after a more formal affair, you’ve also come to the right place. This year, Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay will be hosting a number of sumptuous themed buffets including Christmas Eve, Christmas Day as well as New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day lunch and of course the traditional Early Christmas buffet breakfast at the Fra Martino restaurant. Meticulously crafted and lavishly presented, this year’s menus are set to impress. Expect a gorgeous selection

of hot and cold dishes, served alongside traditional Christmas specialities; mostly with a Corinthia twist. If you’re after something more casual, then why not treat friends and family to a great meal at Henry J. Bean’s? From legendary ribs and piles of cheesy nachos, all the way to cocktails and beer, Hanks’s got a special something for everyone this holiday season. Make the most out of Happy Hour with two-for-one on all drinks between 17:30 and 19:00hrs. As for afternoon teas, they’re exactly as lovely as you’d imagine them. Freshly made sandwiches and homemade pastries are tiered graciously alongside an assortment of seasonal treats and served in style with a pot of brewed tea or coffee. All in all, it’s safe to say that everything’s in motion for a spectacular Christmas season at Corinthia Hotel St George’s Bay, all that’s left is for you to pick a date and call a friend – the rest is all just waiting to happen. As for the perfect Christmas gift - must be an Apollo Spa Voucher. Take advantage of our fantastic seasonal offer, Pay ¢50 and receive additional ¢50 voucher for free. Make your reservation on +356 2137 4114 or festivities.stgeorges@corinthia.com

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Roast Chestnut

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Corinthia Hotel St. George's Bay

Ingredients Roughly 250g chestnuts in their shells – with crosses cut on top 1 large onion – finely chopped 1 celery stalk – finely chopped Medium carrots – finely chopped Roughly 10 chestnut mushrooms – chopped 1 250g tin of chestnut purée (not the sweetened kind) 2 pints of good quality vegetable stock

METHOD  Pre-heat the oven to 200˚C and place the chestnuts in a large roasting tin. Roast for 30 minutes until they soften and darken and begin to split open. Remove from the oven and if you can handle them, remove from their shells and set aside.  In a large pan, sauté the onions, celery and carrots in butter until soft and the onions are beginning to turn translucent.  Add the chopped mushrooms and roasted chestnuts, stir and then place the lid on the pan and let them sweat down for 10 minutes.  Add the stock and the chestnut purée, simmer for 25 minutes before blending until totally smooth with a hand-blender. Serve with a swirl of cream.

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Christmas

TURKEY Ingredients • 20mls vegetable oil • 1 x 5kgs good-quality turkey, preferably wishbone removed (ask your butcher to remove the wings and neck and chop them into 2.5cm/1in pieces) • 40grms unsalted butter, softened to room temperature • 2 pinches sea salt flakes • 2 pinches freshly ground white pepper • 200mls water • 1-2 tsp ground arrowroot (depending on how thick you like your gravy), dissolved in 1 tbsp cold water • Roast potatoes and steamed seasonal vegetables, to serve

Corinthia Hotel St. George's Bay

Method  Remove the turkey from the fridge and bring to room temperature this will take at least an hour.  Preheat the oven to 230°C/220°C fan/Gas 8  Heat the oil in a large, heavybased roasting tray on the stove top. Add the chopped turkey wings and neck and fry for 8 to 10 minutes, turning the pieces over every 2 to 3 minutes, or until evenly browned all over.  Meanwhile, in a small bowl, soften the butter with the back of a dessert spoon, season with the salt and freshly ground white pepper and using a pastry brush or your hands, smear the seasoned butter all over the turkey. Add any remaining butter to the roasting tray once the chopped wings and neck have browned.  Place the turkey on top of the wing and neck pieces, then roast in the oven for 30 minutes.  Remove the turkey from the oven and baste all over with the cooking juices.  Reduce the oven temperature to 160°C/150°C fan/Gas 3.  Pour the water into the roasting tray, then return the turkey to the oven and continue to cook for a further 1 hour, basting the bird with the cooking juices every 20 minutes (do this quickly to prevent the heat escaping from the oven).  At the end of the cooking time, test that the turkey is cooked through by inserting a skewer or roasting



fork into the thickest part of its thigh; if the juices run clear, the meat is cooked. Alternatively, use a meat thermometer; if cooked, the temperature should be 74°C or above. If the turkey is not fully cooked, return it to the oven for a further 20 minutes or until the juices run clear. Remove the turkey from the oven and transfer the bird to a large, deep-sided tray, reserving the roasting tray the turkey was cooked in along with the cooking juices. Set the turkey aside to rest for a minimum of 30 minutes and up to 1½ hours. While the turkey is resting, cook your roast potatoes and vegetable dishes. When you’re almost ready to serve the meal, return the roasting tray used to cook the turkey to the stove top. Bring the cooking juices to the boil over a medium heat, scraping up any burned bits from the bottom of the tray using a wooden spoon. Collect the juices released by the turkey as it was resting and add them to the gravy. Season, to taste, with salt and freshly ground black pepper, if needed. Reduce the heat until the gravy is simmering, then stir in the dissolved arrowroot and cook until the gravy has thickened. Strain the gravy through a fine sieve into a warmed jug. Keep warm. To serve, bring the turkey to the table and carve into slices. Serve with the roast potatoes and vegetables. Pour over the gravy. December 2018

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Corinthia Hotel St. George's Bay

Christmas

Pudding Ingredients • 350g mixed dried fruit (raisins, currants, sultanas) • 100g pitted ready-to-eat prunes, chopped or left whole • 100g dark muscovado sugar • 4 tbsp dark rum • 100ml stout • 100g chopped walnuts • 100g blanched almonds • 100g ground almonds • Fresh white breadcrumbs • 50g plain flour • 100g frozen butter grated, plus a little extra for greasing • ½ tsp freshly grated nutmeg • 1 tsp ground cinnamon • 2 tsp mixed spice • 100g chopped glacé cherries (or left whole if you prefer) • 3 large free-range eggs, beaten

Method  Combine the mixed fruit, prunes, muscovado sugar, rum and stout in a mixing bowl. Stir well to mix, cover and leave for 24 hours to soak.  After 24 hours, mix the walnuts, almonds, ground almonds, breadcrumbs, flour, butter, spices, cherries and eggs along with the soaked fruit mixture in a large mixing bowl, making sure you include all the soaking liquor from the soaked fruit. Mix well until completely combined (let all the members of the family have a stir and make a wish).

 Cover with cling film and leave to stand in a cool place for 24 hours.  After 24 hours, grease a 1.2 litre pudding basin with butter, cut a circle of baking paper and place into the bottom of the pudding basin and then grease it with a little more butter. Pack the pudding mixture into the pudding basin, pressing as you add it. Fold a pleat into the middle of a large piece of baking paper and place over the pudding. Cover with a large piece of pleated foil, ensuring the pleats are on top of one another. Secure tightly with kitchen string tied under the lip of the pudding basin.  Place an upturned saucer into a large saucepan one-quarter full of water. Fold a long piece of foil into quarters length ways to create a long strip and place the pudding basin in the middle of the strip. Bring the sides of the strip up the sides of the pudding basin and lower into the saucepan. Ensure the water in the saucepan comes one-third of the way up the side of the pudding basin, but nowhere near the top of the basin. Leave the ends of the foil strip hanging over the side to make it easy to remove the pudding later.  Bring the water to the boil and then reduce the heat to a gentle simmer. Simmer gently for 5 to 6 hours, topping up the water level as necessary throughout cooking (do not allow the pan to dry out).  Once the pudding is cooked, remove from the pan and set aside to cool. The pudding can be stored for up to two years in a cool, dry place. To serve, reheat the pudding by steaming again (in the sameway) for two hours, or until hot all the way through. Alternatively, remove the foil and reheat in the microwave. Serve with a brandy cream sauce . December 2018

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The taste that brings us together

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Celebrate this festive season with Kinnie

innie, Malta’s own favourite soft drink, is a unique tasting bitter sweet soft drink with orange flavouring and aromatic herbs. Kinnie is best enjoyed ‘neat’, with a slice of orange and lots of ice. Highly refreshing, it is also an excellent mixer. These distinctive characteristics have made Kinnie a Mediterranean classic since 1952, loved by the local population and tourists.

Over the years, in keeping with evolving trends in lifestyles and health awareness, a zero-calorie version, Diet Kinnie, was introduced, as well as Kinnie Zest – a sugar-free variant with an intense orange flavour. Kinnie is a great mixer, bringing life to a range of fantastic cocktails – why not try one of the following cocktails this festive season?

Maltese Negroni:

Kinnie Kiss:

Kinnie brings an extra bittersweet kick to this classic cocktail – simply ask for a Negroni topped up with Kinnie to enjoy this refreshing drink. With equal parts Campari, vermouth, gin & topped up with Kinnie, served with a slice of orange, this cocktail is truly a taste of the Mediterranean.

Perfect enjoyed as an aperitivo, Kinnie Kiss is a light bubbly drink that is as refreshing as it is tasty – consisting of 2 parts prosecco and topped up with Kinnie, also served with a slice of orange. The fusion of Kinnie’s unique taste with the feisty character of prosecco makes this a match made in heaven. December 2018

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Credits by Le Meurice

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Creating Unforgettable Effects Interview with

Cédric

Grolet, Executive Pastry Chef at Le Meurice, Paris

édric Grolet is considered to be one of the most clearly growing pastry chefs in recent years. He has earned a reputation for his striking trompe l’oeil creations. What looks like a fig or lemon is actually an amazing thin shell of lacquered white chocolate, which cracks open to reveal layers of fluffy ganache and spiced fruit. His work conveys a strong sense of class, precision and incredible finishings by means of which he has revisited classics such as Saint Honoré, the Galette des Rois, the ParisBrest, the Mille-feuille, the Tarte aux Pommes and other seasonal products. The Chef Pâtissier at Le Meurice, Cédric Grolet's work has not gone unnoticed. Indeed, Chef Grolet has over the past years received several accolades including World’s Best Restaurant Pastry Chef 2017 by Les Grandes Tables du Monde and more recently The World's Best Pastry Chef 2018 by The World 50 best restaurant in june 2018.Chef Grolet shared with us his journey in the world of pastry, his achievements and his plans for the future.

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CÉDRIC GROLET

What is your pastry philosophy? What attracted you to the world of pastry? Since I was young, I have always liked pastries, I am a real sweet food lover. My grandfather was the one who showed me and explained to me how a machine that makes ice cream works. At the age of six, when I first tasted my grandfather’s ice cream, I remember finding incredible the way the ice cream melted on my finger. From that moment on, I knew I wanted to create pastries.

How has Alain Ducasse’s philosophy of “Naturalness” influenced your work? Alain Ducasse taught me one simple but essential aspect of my work: flavour is what make clients come back to a restaurant. As he once said, “Returning to the essentials. Start from the beginning, where tastes are real and aromas are genuine.” We work with very simple but qualitative products; it is easy to understand them and work in a way that will reveal their original taste.

I develop pastries that are easy to identify visually and tasteful: what you see is what you get. I eliminate all the non-essentials and use good products, raw materials. I already abolished the use of refined sugar, and I would like to abolish other agents such as food colouring. This is my principal project.

In what way does seasonal fruit exalt your work in the kitchen? Seasonal fruits are products that I enjoy very much working with. We have to be careful not to distort them, to use everything. I like working according to the seasons and I always respect the product and its timing.

I recently read you are very attracted to Asian culture and heritage. In what way does it fit into your kitchen? When I travel, I don’t taste so much sweets, I’m actually more attracted and inspired by “salty” food. I like tasting new dishes rather than pastries. December 2018

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such as playing with Rubik’s cubes and when time is too long we begin to feel hungry and eat small cakes. By mixing these two ideas, I created the Rubik’s Cake. I usually adapt the colours according to the time of the year or event, such as white during Christmas to remind of the snow or all in chocolate for Easter. Regarding pastries, aesthetics have become extremely important, especially for social networks such as Instagram. In my opinion, the aesthetic aspect of my work is crucial, it’s my aim to create desserts that are as good as beautiful. The content and the shape work together. As I create new pastries, my style becomes finer. As an artist or designer, I have today my own signature, which is recognizable across my pastries, being the simple apple pie or the more complex Rubik’s cake.

In what way has Instagram created an effective communication channel with your followers?

In a recent interview, you noted that authenticity will be the next trend. Can you elaborate? I’m someone so simple, that very often, when I order others’ pastries, I can’t understand them. When I go to a restaurant, I would only order a plate of fruit or ice cream and sorbet. Most times, I find desserts too sweet and lacking innovation. My palate recognizes only very simple and comprehensible tastes, and not the very complicated associations. Thus, for me, the next trend would be even simpler creations, to purify them at the most. The taste needs to be original and non-artificial, with no unnecessary décor, and above all, easy to understand.

What is the underlying concept behind your edible Rubik's cube? I had the idea of the Rubik’s Cake when thinking of pastries with the theme of travelling for our reunion of “Le Club des Sucrés”. I was thinking of all the waiting we do when we travel and what we do to kill time, 116

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Instagram has become a very important channel for me; it is what allows me to share my universe and to exchange ideas with people. I can show my followers the behind the scenes of how I work, my creations, my travels, etc. I pay a lot of attention to details and try to be coherent when I post a photo, that the colours are in harmony and my feed tells a story. It is also a way to sell a dream to the public. As I say, what is visually pleasing to the eye will attract people but what tastes good is what will make them come back.

How does the festive season tease your culinary creativity? When I think of winter and the festive season, I think of warm chestnuts because of the people who sell them on the streets. This is actually, what inspired my creations of this year’s Yule logs made entirely out of chestnuts.

What legacy do you wish to leave? I try to create pastries with the least sugar possible and where the taste predominates above all. I also attach a great importance to using what nature can offer us by creating my pastries based on the seasons and products available at that time.

CÃ&#x2030;DRIC GROLET

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Interview with

Michaela

Cordina, Manageress, Brookies Restaurant, Rabat Gœawdex

When did Brookies first open its doors? Brookies was bought by my Australian uncle Carmel Cordina in November 2014 and after extensive refurbishment we opened the doors on the 17th August 2015. Now it is managed by me with my father on my right hand side. We are proud that in just only three years since we opened we have had the Malta Tourism Authority Quality Assurance Seal and won for the three consecutive years “Best in Class Awards” “Best Service and Hospitality Award” and also the “Certificate of Excellence” from the Trip Advisor.

What led you, or inspired you, to open such a type of bar/ restaurant in Rabat? What background did you have in this industry, prior to opening Brookies? Our family has always been business minded, starting from my grandfather who passed it on to his children, which was then passed on to me. Why we choose a restaurant? My father always worked in catering when he was young and by the time I was born he was running his own place. He had to let it go due to personal matters, however my wish still lingered on to run my own place, which he knew. To do this line of work you must have the passion of it at heart. On the other hand my uncle (his brother) has a very successful vegetable business in Australia and he generously offered to be the financial back bone behind us. After a lot of searching this is how Brookies came to be.

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What type of food and beverages does your establishment serve? What in your opinion, is your target demographic? Our main cuisine is Mediterranean and grill however we do not stop there. We want to be a bit different from other restaurants and have made other dishes such as Japanese, Indian and Thai in the recent past and we will keep on doing so. We try our best to cater for all, including common allergies, vegans and vegetarians because we believe that everyone should have an enjoyable dinner from start to finish. Regarding beverages we specialise in wine mostly. The restaurant has a beautiful cave wine cellar with over 170 different wines from all over the world. Furthermore we do offer a selection of quality whiskeys and spirits, liquors and even cigars to complement a fine brandy. 120

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We try not to limit our target to just one group however our main target are those clients who are looking for a full dining experience, who want to relax and enjoy drinking a pairing wine with a three course meal. Those who will appreciate well-trained staff for such food and service that Brookies provide and acknowledge the beauty of the 300 year old refurbished building.

What is the most important thing you keep in mind when serving your customers? The general rule still stands, the customer is always right. With this we also incorporated making all your customers feel welcome from when they enter the establishment to when they leave, giving each client the same service regardless if he is a regular or first timer and to be attentive to their need thus making them want to come back not only for good food but for the ambiance we portray.

BROOKIES

What specialities do you offer? Specials are there mostly for our regulars to give them alternative options to choose from rather than the Menu every time they visit. We try to have at least one soup, starter, pasta, main dish, steak and fresh fish. Our house special dish is our tender beef Tagliata Steak served differently each time.

EACH FRUIT CRUNCH CONTAINS

To all those who have never been toÂ BrookiesÂ till now, what would you suggest? Take your time dining, you are not rushed and enjoy your meal peacefully. Ask if you have any questions, we will answer to the best of our knowledge. If you have any suggestions, please do tell us, we will always keep an open mind for improvements. And try to leave room for dessert as we have a selection of homemade dessert, our house special is the Chocolate Fondant.

EACH CRUNCHY RYE BREAD CONTAINS

In your opinion, how important it is for an establishment to not only serve food or drink, but to give your clients a wholesome experience? This is very important, especially with a place like Brookies. The main goal is you want these clients to come back for the experience. A client once asked me which is more important food or service? I told him at a restaurant, food is the priority and he pointed out that that is incorrect. He went on to explain that a client will forgive you if you make a mistake in a dish however he will not forgive you if you are rude or cold and will not want to return. This got stuck in my head.

How much of a challenge is it for you to administer a bar and a restaurant at the same time? What challenges come with such a dichotomy? The main challenge of a restaurant is finding experience staff members. When I have a private event in the bar upstairs terrace and have the restaurant fully booked the challenge is finding enough staff members to do the service correctly and efficiently. December 2018

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EACH CRUNCHY RYE BREAD CONTAINS

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com.mt

Interview with

Moira

Debrincat, Head Chef, Brookies Restaurant, Rabat Gœawdex

How would you best describe your food? I would describe my food as simple but with a twist. Food that still delivers the warmth of a home-made cooked meal and at the same time not the kind of food that normally would be found at home.

What are your main culinary sources of inspiration? Like writers, painters and musicians, chefs also get their inspiration. Personally I do not have a specific source of inspiration since I get inspired from different things for example, other menus, celebrity chefs, food photos and sharing ideas with other people in this industry. Also paintings can get me inspired since you can easily relate the colours to a particular ingredient while trying to compose a dish and also scent can do its trick. Sometimes a particular scent can get you thinking with what it would be paired and work best. But most of all, I love to get inspired from people who don’t work in the catering industry at all and cook for passion or as a hobby. I think they have the purest approach to food and you can see from the way they talk, that they really do it from the heart. 122

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What are your favourite ingredients, or at least the ones which you like to use most frequently? The most ingredient I work with, not that is my favourite, is salt. Unless one is on a dietary restriction, salt is an important asset to food. It enhances flavours such as savoury notes and balances sweetness, thus it is used in desserts as well. It’s hard to choose a particular ingredient since every single ingredient is important in any recipe. I don’t have any particular favourite one, though I like working with simple and common ingredients. You can easily get a good combination of different textures, colours and different flavours by using basic ingredients which can be found easily around. I’d like to think that I try to get the maximum from the most underrated and common ingredients. Also sometimes the more fancy an ingredient might look the lack of taste it consists. This can be easily seen in fruits, for example one of the best-looking fruits on the planet is the dragon fruit, it might look like the sweetest and most succulent fruit you’ve ever had but I think it is a big let-down when tasting it since it is quite bland. So I’d rather stick to the common and basic ingredients.

BROOKIES

And what about your favourite dishes? I am not in a position to decide about a particular dish and claim it my favourite. Being in the heart of the Mediterranean Sea, I do enjoy Mediterranean food mostly Italian food. Italian cuisine is normally characterized by its simplicity with a lot of dishes having only two to four main ingredients. They rely more on the quality of ingredients rather than on elaborate preparation. On the other hand I am also intrigued by Asian cuisine mostly Japanese. Their manuality and discipline when it comes to food is something I find as amusing as a musician playing an instrument. They are trained in such a complex way to deliver a show for who’s able to watch their food being prepared and an eye for presentation which really amuses me. On the other hand, my favourite dishes that I mostly enjoy preparing myself are the starters. Starters and soups although not considered as the “Main Course” of a meal, when ordered of course is the first thing that the customer will see, taste and enjoy. Starters have the ability to make or break the dining experience of guests. If a starter is a success it will leave guests with a good first impression and they might also forgive slight mishaps or less exciting food later on.

How important is the quality of the product for you? And what encourages you to keep on striving for a higher level whenever you cook?

Quality has a basic rule – best quality for best results of course. When buying food commodities, one has to know the quality points and what to look for. In some cases quality is related to maturation, such in vegetables and fruits. Seasonal fruits and vegetables ensure good quality when fully matured and ripe. It is important to know your dealers and buy fresh ingredients whenever possible. Also local products have a distinctive quality and flavours compared to same products from other countries. Due to high competition in this industry one must never stop where he or she is. You have to keep informing yourself about new techniques, new equipment, new ingredients, new food pairing, new trends etc etc... The food industry changes like the fashion world. What was in trend years ago does not or hardly apply to nowadays. Classic dishes will always be a classic though. You cannot touch a classic dish and still call it with its original name, though one can try to make it look more appealing to nowadays eyes when it comes to presenting food on a plate. Planning and inspiration are always keys for producing a higher level when cooking. It can be hard to do so when busy, so it is necessary to find some time to look around for seasonal produce and be imaginative. Apart from the competition which itself should be enough to get one going on and seek for higher results, it also depends on the individual on how much he or she is willing to learn. I do personally enjoy my free time and look for something new to learn. December 2018

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New Collection

Interview with

Diane Ellul Luke Friggieri

t is amazing how a name rekindles memories connected to our past. It is curious that, while we struggle to remember a mobile phone number or the names of our closest of friends, the merest smell of a coffee or the taste of a pastry evokes memories with frightening clarity of family events or specific moments in our life. Busy Bee is one of those names which each time I come across during a wedding, a social catch up or a business meeting, fondly reminds me of Sunday afternoons with my parents enjoying every crumb of those pastizzi tax-xemgĹ&#x201C;a or a portion of Cassatella. The name also reminds me of family weddings, my parent's 50th Anniversary and more recently, my daughter's baptism. Since then, many things changed yet Busy Bee still plays a central role in our every day life and in our special moments thanks to the solid roots of a name which dates back to 1933, when Ă&#x2021;ensu Friggieri opened the Busy Bee Confectionery. December 2018

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Diane Ellul & luke friggieri

When Ă&#x2021;ensuâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s son Edwin, took over the business in 1974 he kept on building on his fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s reputation and over the years he introduced Italian delicacies such as Dolci di Mandorla and handmade Torroncini. Over the years the humble confectionery was established as an Italian styled Coffee Shop and Tavola Calda, serving a varied menu of foods, savouries, sweets and beverages whilst at the same time Busy Bee was also providing quality catering for weddings parties and receptions. Sipping through her daily morning coffee, Diane Ellul, a third generation member of the Friggieri family tells me that Edwin worked around the limitations of the local industry offered. "One of his secret ingredients was almonds. It always made the trick to curb the limitations of other raw materials including chocolate. A case in point were our famous Easter eggs with almonds." The company continued to grow earning a reputation as one of the leaders on the local scene. Diane notes that her father's achievements were driven by his strong determination and perseverance. She refers to his motto, "If you settle for what have you will go backwards and not forward." Indeed, the solid foundations laid by Edwin led to a healthy growth further with the acquisition of Villa Mdina in Naxxar in 1988. Other investments followed including the launch of the Gelateria in 2011 a few meters away from the coffee shop. The Gelateria offers a wide range of freshly made products. You will not find only 45 different flavours, but also, fresh pancakes and waffles served to your liking with a vast variety of toppings and fillings. The Gelateria also serves fat free and soya ice-cream, frozen yoghurt, latte di mandorla and sorbet. December 2018

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Yet growth comes at a cost and the company's inroads on the market led to a need for a larger premises from where to operate. Indeed, the almost Â˘7 million investment in a new factory in Mriehel was a natural move towards that direction. The new premises coincided with the transition of the family business to the new generation. Luke, a member of the fourth generation of the Friggieri family notes that, "The place we worked in was no longer tenable. It was logistically impossible. The move was a natural process. Now, we can think of expanding as the structure we have developed offers us the possibility to do so." He proudly adds, "We are creating a structure, we are adapting to the modern world. We created a perfect tree. It was a time when we had to stop and think and revisit what we do." Indeed, the past years were very hectic for the new generation creating the right compromise between tradition and innovation. Fast movers are being retained and complemented with new concepts inspired by current international trends. Notwithstanding all the changes the company is going through, the coffee shop remains a timeless spot where people come together to socialise, to meet their loved ones or for business purposes. Busy Bee Coffee Shop is more than just another outlet, its a staple of

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local society and tightly knit with the every day life of Msida. The place takes its toll during special times of the year including the Festive Season. The kitchen during this time of the year is full of all sorts of colours and aromas which create that perfect Christmas vibe. Although this year the team will work from their new kitchen in MrieĹ&#x201C;el, Diane does not expect a less busy agenda. After all those pots and pens which block every corridor in the kitchen are an essential characteristic of Christmas at Busy Bee. Like previous years, every staff member will be busy preparing panforte, panettone, hampers, puddings, cassatelli and other delicacies. Luke points out, "This year, we will also proudly exhibit our artisan jams too." Its time to conclude our meeting yet before moving on to my next interview, I ask them what should we expect from Busy Bee in the years to come. Luke notes "The company's long legacy has served as a solid basis upon which we are building our future. The new premises are the stepping stone for a long term project we are working on which seeks to keep loyal to its past yet also seeks to innovate so as to remain relevant. In line with such premise. We have brought on board new team members which will help the new generation reach its goals. The best is yet to come."

Diane Ellul & luke friggieri

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Credits to Claes Bech-Poulsen

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Child of Nature

Interview with

Rasmus

Kofoed, Head Chef and Co-Owner of Geranium

anish-born Rasmus Kofoed is an acclaimed Nordic chef, whose cuisine was recently defined by FOUR Magazine as "lucid, light and dynamic, exploring natureâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s perpetual change and beauty." Every dish Chef Kofoed works on conveys his deep connection to the land, his respect of nature and his deep understanding of ingredients. His mastery is well respected and appreciated in the industry and it is with no coincidence that he won the gold medal at the 2011 Bocuse d'Or, after previously taking the bronze medal in 2005 and the silver medal in 2007 in the same competition. Chef Kofoed shared with us his food philosophy, his connection with nature and his upcoming projects.

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RASMUS KOFOED

What attracted you to the world of food? I always enjoyed foraging with my mother and helping to prepare meals for my family, this is what lead to my love of cooking.

Several food critics have defined you as 'a child of nature'. To what extent do you agree? In one sense we are all a "child of nature," but I did have the great gift to spend much of my childhood in the forest and along the coastline of Denmark. To this day, I love being out in nature, enjoying the beauty, the fresh air or picking herbs and flowers for the restaurant.

What is your process like when creating new dishes? My inspiration usually comes from something I have seen in nature, it could be a tree or plant, or the design of the inside of a cabbage for example. Then I begin to imagine the various other components of the dish making sure there is texture and a balance of flavours.

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In what way do you adhere with Rudolf Steiner's biodynamic way of thinking? If you take something from the earth, you need to give something back, out of respect. We work closely with biodynamic farmers who supply most of our vegetables at Geranium. Because they are very high quality and we appreciate the thoughtfulness behind how they are grown.

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77, Three Churches Street, December 2018 Balzan, BZN 1300, Malta

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www.cosecasa.com (+356) 2144 7672

RASMUS KOFOED

In a recent interview you commented “it’s not an art to make people full. I want them to leave the restaurant with a light feeling in the heart.” Can you elaborate? Many times after eating a tasting menu I have left the restaurant feeling quite full and uncomfortable. Food is life and food is energy. I want my diners to feel alive when they leave Geranium to have energy to enjoy the rest of their day. This part of the reason our menu has a focus on vegetables first and proteins second.

How did you get interested in the Bocuse d'Or? I became interested in Bocuse d'Or after seeing photos of Danish chef and Bocuse d'Or winner Jens Peter Kolbeck. I admired the beauty, the precision and the techniques behind this style of cooking.

What is the underlying story behind Geranium? Two friends came together to create their vision of a great place to welcome guests, to cook for them, to serve them, to take them away from their every day lives, to take them on a journey and to offer them some wonderful wines and juice pairings.

In what way have your dishes at Geranium shifted to a more clean expression? I have less items on the plate than before, the vision is more focused and more natural.

How would you define the New Nordic Cuisine and where do you feel it is heading? We have been using these same ingredients for years in Denmark, it is only when our cuisine was recognised internationally that it was deemed "new." It's been really great that our cuisine has been recognized internationally and I am really proud to be able to share our food and cultural heritage with people.

In what way does the Festive Season fit into your kitchen? At Geranium we celebrate the 4 seasons of the life cycle; Winter, Spring, Summer and Autumn. With each season we choose the very best local vegetables, meat and seafood and highlight them. Herbs, flowers, berries and nuts complete the picture so to speak. One could say our pine eggs represent the festive winter season. They are part of our sweets at the end of the meal. It is a dark chocolate egg, filled with a pine infused caramel and a chocolate ganache before being covered in a foraged pine powder, made from pine needles. They are vibrant green like a Christmas tree or pine tree and also have the beautiful aroma of the pine.

What's next? I am currently coaching Kenneth Toft-Hansen, the Danish candidate for Bocuse d'Or, the finals will be in Lyon in January 2019. I want to help promote Danish gastronomy worldwide through my work with Bocuse Denmark. Otherwise I am quite busy with Geranium and spending time with my family. December 2018

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Ale Battered Cod Fish and Chips Ingredients:

METHOD:

Ale Batter: 700gr self-raising flour 3 bottles pale ale beer (33cl) ¾ pint glass soda water ¼ pint glass lemonade 1tsp curry powder Juice of 1 lemon Salt and pepper for seasoning 1tsp chopped dill

 Combine all the ingredients together and mix with a gentle whisk until the batter has a smooth consistency.  Start by coating the fish fillets with the flour, shaking off the excess.  Dip the flour coated fish in the batter, then carefully drop one at a time into hot oil.  Fry fish for 5 to 7 minutes until both sides are golden brown. Drain on paper towels and serve warm.  Serve with home style chips, tartar sauce and mushy peas or salad.

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GREAT DANE

Premium Beef Burger Ingredients 400 grms minced chuck roll beef (from the shoulder) 200 grms minced sirloin steak ½ onion finely diced 1 clove garlic 2 egg yolks 30grms finely chopped parsley 1tsp mustard powder Salt and pepper

Method  Combine all of the ingredients working with your hands until mince is firmly combined.  Form into 200 grams patties.  Refrigerate for 1 hour to allow meat to settle. Heat a lightly oiled grill.  Place patties, flipping carefully and cook until deep golden with a great crust.  Serve in toasted bread buns with choice of salad and sauce or condiment of your choice.

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December 2018

Herb-studded roast loin of pork

with apple & cider gravy

Method Keith Farrugia THE MEAT SHOP

 Rub salt in the pork skin 2 hours before cooking and leave it uncovered in the fridge. Heat the oven to 230°C/210°C fan/gas 8. Turn the pork rindside down and with a small knife make about 6 deep incisions along the meat. Insert a sliver of garlic, a piece of rosemary and bay in each incision and turn the pork the right way up. If you didn’t salt the pork earlier salt the skin now.  Mix the carrot, onion and apple and scatter along the middle of a shallow roasting tray to make a bed for the pork to sit on. Sit the pork on the vegetables and rub the skin with the oil. Place the pork in the oven and leave for 15 mins then turn the heat down to 180°C/160°C fan/gas 4 and continue to roast for 1hr 30 mins. If after this time you don’t have brilliant crackling turn the heat up again and check every 5 mins until the skin has crackled.

INGREDIENTS 1.8kg piece of rolled and tied pork loin with the skin scored 2 garlic cloves, sliced into thin slivers small bunch rosemary 3 bay leaves, torn 1 onion chopped 1 large carrot 1 apple 1 tbsp sunflower oil Sunflower oil 2 tbsp plain flour 100ml good quality cider 500ml vegetable or chicken stock

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 Remove the pork from the roasting tray to a board to rest and pour off all but about 2 tbsp of fat from the tray. If your tray is robust enough to go on the heat then do so, if not scrape the contents into a shallow saucepan and place on the heat. Stir the flour in with the vegetables and cook until you have a mushy, dark amber paste then splash in the cider and bubble down to a thick paste again. Pour in the stock and simmer everything for 8-10 mins until you have thickened gravy. Strain the sauce into another saucepan pushing as much puréed apple as you can through the sieve. Simmer again and season to taste.  Carve the pork loin with crackling attached into slices using a serrated knife and serve with your favourite vegetables and the apple and cider gravy.

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IGT Maltese Islands

Ensuring quality from vines to wines Ripeness

Vine C u l t i va t i o n

Checking quality parameters and sugar content using a refractometer

Tending to and pruning the vine all year long

H a rv e s t PRESSing

Hand-picking the grapes

Extracting the juice

F e r m e n tat i o n Converting grape juice to wine

Wines of Distinction DOK Malta â&#x20AC;˘ DOK Gozo IGT Maltese Islands

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dokmaltadokgozo dokmaltadokgozo.gov.mt December 2018

Brought to you by

An interview with

Maltese and Gozitan Vinners

year since the DOK Malta, DOK Gozo – Wines of Distinction Campaign was launched, it’s time to catch up with some of the vintners who are the key players behind the labels DOK Malta, DOK Gozo and IÆT Maltese Islands. Interviewed here are Joseph Walker for Maria Rosa Wine Estate, Jeremy Cassar for Marsovin, Karl Chetcuti for Meridiana Wine Estate and Joseph Spiteri from Ta’ Mena Estate.

Maria Rosa Wine Estate

Marsovin

Meridiana Wine Estate

Joseph Walker

Jeremy Cassar

Karl Chetcuti

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Meridiana Wine Estate:

How long have you been in this sector? How did you get started in winemaking? Maria Rosa Wine Estate:

Marsovin:

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Joseph Fenech, who is now eighty-three years old, followed his father’s footsteps who used to produce wine from grapes grown in the family’s fields for their own consumption. Eventually, this got bigger and in 2008 the first bottles went on the market. Next year Marsovin will celebrate its hundredth anniversary. The founder of the winery, Chev. Anthony Cassar started off as a small wine merchant and producer in the heart of Qormi. It was his passion and love for winemaking that drove him to grow and continuously strive for better quality.

Ta’ Mena Estate:

I have been in this sector for seven years now. However, Meridiana Wine Estate has been producing premium wines since 1997. Fifteen years. Our forefathers have been involved in winemaking since 1936 and we wanted to upgrade and produce wine in a more professional way.

As a vintner which is your favourite/most challenging part of the winemaking process? Why? Maria Rosa Wine Estate:

The major grape for us is the Sirakuÿan, but our favourite is the Cabernet Sauvignon. In 2014 we received a Gold Medal in Bergamo for the Riÿerva 2008. The most challenging part is producing a white wine from a red grape.

DOC MALTA - DOC GOZO Marsovin:

My favourite part of the winemaking process is the creation of a new wine, the entire process of innovating and experimenting with a new grape variety, and a new technique. It is this part of the work that I do, that I believe helps to keep on raising standards quality in our wines.

Meridiana Wine Estate: It

depends on the situation and what kind of food is on the table. Personally I love white wine. I truly enjoy a nice unoaked Chardonnay or a crisp Vermentino, but I also love a well-made Merlot.

Ta’ Mena Estate:

Dry red wine.

Which grape variety features most in your wines? Meridiana Wine Estate:

Ta’ Mena Estate:

We enjoy various moments like bud-burst and harvest time. As for the most challenging time, I would say it’s when we are preparing the final blends of our various wines. Besides being an important time, it is the last process before putting the final product on the market. The best part is the blending because it is the moment when we produce the flavours that we want to deliver to our customers.

Maria Rosa Wine Estate:

The Sirakuÿan is the variety that features mostly in our winery as it covers 75% of our fields.

Marsovin:

Chardonnay for whites and Merlot for reds. These varieties adapt very well to the Maltese climate and can produce very good-quality wines, though as time goes by we are using the Æellewÿa and Girgentina even more.

Meridiana Wine Estate: For

white wines definitely Chardonnay, and for red wines, we use a lot of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Which is your favourite kind of wine? Maria Rosa Wine Estate:

Marsovin:

As already stated the Cabernet Sauvignon is our favourite, followed by the Syrah. I believe you should not limit yourself to a favourite type of wine. The beauty of wine lies in its versatility. That being said, I am also very happy with the results we have achieved over the past years with our indigenous varieties - Girgentina and Æellewÿa. I believe in these varieties and our ability to produce worldclass wines out of them if managed correctly.

Ta’ Mena Estate:

Vermentino, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet Franc.

Is there any method/specifications that characterises your wines? Maria Rosa Wine Estate:

We believe that making a white wine from a red grape gives our winery a special characteristic and to our knowledge, we are the only winery that produces such wine.

Marsovin:

We produce a large variety of wine styles from Amarone style to full-bodied barrique aged December 2018

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DOC MALTA - DOC GOZO reds and Méthode Traditionelle sparkling wine. Due to the size of our winery and expertise we employ, as well as the near 100 years of experience that we hold, we believe that we have the skills to produce a large range of wines with many different styles. Meridiana Wine Estate:

Ta’ Mena Estate:

A lot of painstaking work is done in the vineyard to ensure we have the highest quality of the grapes. We also work very closely with the farmers from whom we purchase grapes. The usual processing.

Meridiana Wine Estate:

DOK is a certificate of quality, one that also reflects the hard work involved to grow the best grapes possible to produce premium-quality wines. It’s a recognition of the overall quality of the work we do.

Ta’ Mena Estate:

Local certification of our wines which, unfortunately, lacks understanding by the consumer.

Any future goals? Maria Rosa Wine Estate:

Our future goals are to increase production and maintain the good quality.

Marsovin:

To continue producing better and better wines and eventually start exporting our wines outside of Malta, something which unfortunately the EU has not assisted the Maltese wineries to achieve.

Meridiana Wine Estate:

We will strive to keep improving the quality of our wines and to keep our many customers satisfied with our products.

What does DOK and IÆT mean to you?

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Maria Rosa Wine Estate:

For us producing DOK & IÆT wines shows the commitment to good-quality wines.

Marsovin:

It is a way of giving extra peace of mind to the consumer that apart from us as a winery, there is also a third party involved who guarantees the high level of quality of Maltese wines. For as long as the standards are maintained and the consumer appreciates the hard work that Maltese wineries go through, then I believe that it is very important for the local wine sector.

December 2018

Ta’ Mena Estate:

Concentrating more on exports since, unfortunately, local distributors and catering outlets are more interested in promoting foreign cheap wine to make more profit. There will come a day when they will regret this, since one can fool someone for some time but not all the time!

New World Of Flavors

Sapori D’Italia Gourmet is a new World of flavors, it is a legacy directly inherited from our Territory in decades of experience. We have been renovaang the classic recipes of our Mediterranean Cuisine, which are the favorite of the Italian Food. The assortment is made of Pess, Bruscheea, Paste, Pestaa and Sauces. Our task is to develop recipes to be not only very tasty but also to be versaale as an excellent condiment for pasta, rice and also ideal for creaang delicious appeezers and aperiifs, because even a simple combinaaon with a slice of bread can be a Gourmet experience. The seleccon of the ingredients, the careful preparaaon and the genuine flavors are the hallmarks of Sapori D’Italia Gourmet, that even in the value for money is unique. The Brand we created for this line, wants to convey the quality as a mark of guarantee of Gourmet content. The photographic descrippon on the label, truly important for us, is the indispensable element to get the best from the use and the creaave cuisine that Sapori D’Italia Gourmet assortment can offer.

December 2018

Paolo Bonnici Ltd Marsa Tel: +356 21239363 www.paolobonnici.com.mt

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Method

Seafood Lasagna

 Heat up a griddle pan. Brush a little olive oil on the zucchini slices and grill until lightly charred, set aside. Heat the oven to 180°C

Ingredients

fan/200°C/gas mark 6. Heat some olive oil in a pan and lightly fry the onion and garlic. Add all the seafood and stir. Cook for 5 min-

1 pkt lasagna sheets

utes. Add the passata to the pan and season

2 tbsp olive oil

with salt and pepper. Cook for a further 10

6 zucchini, sliced lenghtways

minutes. Place the sauce in a shallow dish.

1 onion, finely sliced

Top the sauce with a few slices of the zucchini

2 garlic cloves, finely chopped

and top again with the lasagna sheets. Repeat

1 jar passata sauce

the process and finish the layers with zucchini

200g prawns peeled

on top. Mix the parmesan and fresh bread-

200g mussel meat

crumbs together, and scatter on top. Cover the

200g clam meat

lasagna with kitchen foil and cook for approxi-

200g white fish fillets, diced

mately 35 – 40 minutes.

5 tbsp parmesan cheese, grated 2 tbsp bread crumbs, fresh

 Serving suggestion: Serve the lasagna with steamed vegetables on the side.

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& azzopardi fisheries

Scallop

local prawn risotto Ingredients

100g butter 2 shallots, finely chopped 750ml fish stock 400g risotto rice 600g local prawns peeled 1 lemon, zest and juice 3 tbsp mascarpone 12 scallops meat 1 bunch chives, finely chopped Handful of basil, chopped

Method ď Ž Melt the butter in a heavy based pan and gently cook the shallots until soft. Add the rice and stir until the grains are well coated with the butter. Add the fish stock gradually, a ladle at a time, stirring well with each addition, until the rice is just tender. Add the prawn meat and season with salt and pepper. Add the lemon zest and juice. Turn the prawns over so they cook on both sides, and once they are done fold in the mascarpone. Leave to set for 5 minutes. Pan fry the scallops using 1 tbsp butter in a frying pan. Once ready add to the risotto. Sprinkle with the fresh chives and basil before serving.

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azzopardi fisheries

Ingredients 100g cream cheese 100g creme fraiche 200g Scottish smoked salmon 1 lemon, zest only, finely grated ½ lemon, juice only 1 tbsp Creamed horseradish 2 tbsp fresh Dill, finely chopped Capers, to serve

Method  Place all the ingredients except the capers in a food processor. Pulse until a pâté forms which still has some texture to it but is not a purée. Taste to check the seasoning as smoked salmon can vary greatly in its saltiness. It may also need more lemon juice. Serve with the capers, Maltese water biscuits or toasted bread. This is an ideal starter for festive lunches.

Smoked Salmon Pate 152

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The Perfect

Taste

Interview with

Amer

Wahoud, Owner of Sunday in Scotland

alf way down st. Lucia Street just before walking on to st. Paul Street, lies a small outlet which will definitely tease your senses with its amazing display of hand made chocolates and pastry. Sunday in Scotland is the brain child of entrepreneur Amer Wahoud who combines art and science to create amazing chocolates and other sweet wonders. The emphasis in every creation is on quality, essence and absolute perfection. Each bite you take is as sinful as heaven, so good that youâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll want that flavour to endlessly linger on your palate. Delicious met up with Amer to discover his roots, his vision and the essence of Sunday in Scotland.

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Who is Amer Wahoud and what is your connection with the world of chocolates and sweets? My connection to the world of chocolate is a true passion. I have a great interest in digging into the chocolate world and linking it to the science of food. I’m fascinated by how the world of chocolate is developing through science.

What does chocolate mean to you? Chocolate is a necessity for human beings, and it is heavenly good to eat. You get an amazing feeling when you eat chocolate. It feels just like heaven.

Is the market price driven or quality driven? In the case of Sunday in Scotland, I’m presenting a very appealing and high-quality product at a reasonable rate. It is affordable luxury.

What lies behind the name Sunday in Scotland? The name is a nod to the carefree, exhilarating Sundays of childhood, which in this case were spent in Scotland. It also hints at the artistic side of our brand. And I believe that this is what really makes Sunday in Scotland different.

What is the underlying goal behind Sunday in Scotland? Our goal is to change the entire experience of luxury chocolate. When you purchase Sunday in Scotland, you’re buying top luxury and quality chocolate but at an accessible price. This will change the way people see and understand chocolate.

You often refer to the tag line; “Conceived in Scotland, manufactured in Malta.” Can you elaborate on it? The idea to launch a new kind of chocolate company first came up in Scotland. And it’s made in Malta because that’s where I live. 156

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amer wahoud

In what way does Sunday in Scotland stand out of the crowd? Sunday in Scotland is an artistic lifestyle brand. We’re not your usual brand, and we don’t just produce chocolate. Our vision encompasses chocolate, luxury, quality and art.

In what way does the Festive Season exalt your creative mind? I love Christmas and the entire holiday season. It’s the most vibrant time of year, a time when families and friends get together and the spirit of giving is in the air. The holiday season inspired me to create a new cake, the Festive Cake, which is made of 64% Madagascar chocolate, crunchy hazelnuts, praline biscuits and a

layer of fruit. What’s great about this cake is that it lasts for 90 days, so it’s ideal for travel and to pack as a holiday gift. The Festive Cake is included in the Festive Gift Box that we’re publicizing online.

What pastry should we look out for during this time of the year? The Praline Caramel Tart. It’s a rich, full-bodied, comfort dessert that’s ideal for the cold weather season.

What’s next? We’re planning to launch another type of product, something out of the box “it will be in world” yet still based on the Sunday in Scotland brand. December 2018

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A Healthy Diet Plus

healthy diet means that a person eats small amounts of a variety of food. This means that although we know that fruit and vegetables are healthy and that we know that they

are important components of our diet, it is also important that we include also other types of food. According to the latest research wholemeal bread, pasta, rice and flour are much healthier from the equivalent food that is not wholemeal, because they have much less fibre.

The oil and fats that we find in seeds, legumes and other plants are very healthy because they contain fats that deposit in our joints. As part of a healthy diet it is crucial that we choose good meats and proteins such as fish, poultry, rabbit and other meat that contains less fats. Diary products are also very important above all to provide calcium to strengthen our bones. This is especially important in children and elderly persons.

Finally red meat and butter are also important in small amounts. These fats provide a layer of fat under our skin and around our organs to protect them and insulate them from the cold weather. In conclusion, it is very important to eat different amounts of all kinds of food, as recommended by the appropriate professionals. Add a moderate amount of exercise and with a healthy lifestyle that will safeguard your health. December 2018

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Why do we get bloating in our tummy:

Dr. Z. Teebi

is a Medical Consultant with a special interest in Allergy. He studied and graduated from the Imperial College London (UK). zteebi@gmail.com

tomach bloating is so common these days it’s been called an “epidemic.” With most people’s poor diets, high levels of stress, need for daily medications and exposure to various pollutants, it’s no wonder they’re suffering some sort of bloating more days than not. While a bloated stomach is certainly uncomfortable — even embarrassing when it comes along with gas or the need to run to the bathroom — it might be a bigger deal than you’d think. Stomach bloating can sometimes signify serious health problems lurking below the surface. It’s one of the most common candida symptoms and leads to other issues like a digestive disorder, autoimmune reaction, allergy or even stomach cancer in some cases.

Symptoms of a Bloated Stomach Having a bloated stomach is different from gaining actual fat mass around your stomach, since bloating is temporary and mostly caused by air becoming stuck around your abdomen, making it distend outward. Simply put, being “bloated” is the feeling of having built-up gas in your digestive system that makes your stomach protrude uncomfortably. Some people even kid around and joke that they “look pregnant” when their abdominal bloating becomes very bad.

Luckily, in some cases, stomach bloating isn’t anything to be alarmed about. It can usually be cleared up by making some simple changes to your diet and routine, although not always. Along with feeling full, gassy and having pain in your abdomen, you should check if your bloated stomach occurs simultaneously with other symptoms throughout the body. This can give you a clue on what’s causing the problem and whether it might be serious enough to warrant a doctor’s visit. December 2018

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When you’re feeling bloated, check for other symptoms, including: A fever Skin rashes or hives Watery eyes, itchy throat and other signs of allergic reaction Constipation or diarrhoea Vomiting or nausea Blood in your urine or stool Unintentional weight loss Trouble going to the bathroom Pain around your lymph nodes, including in your groin, throat or armpits Fatigue Brain clouding and trouble concentrating Irregular periods Haemorrhoids What Causes a Bloated Stomach? You might be wondering what causes stomach bloating. There are dozens of different reasons you might develop a bloated stomach — food intolerances, allergies, hormonal imbalances, thyroid dysfunction and intestinal troubles. It might seem hard to narrow down the main cause, but the more information you can gather about your reactions to different foods and circumstances, the better idea you’ll have as to what triggers your symptoms. Belly bloat itself is usually a problem with digestion. Making it more confusing, many different things can affect gut health, the ability to digest food

properly and our body’s way of naturally eliminating waste. Because so many different factors can contribute to stomach bloating — including some that seem totally unrelated, like sleep or stress — it’s possible to become bloated any time of the day or month. Contrary to what most people think, bloating is not the same as carrying around extra fat mass. Fluids can’t actually accumulate in your stomach, although you might be bloated and have water retention in other parts of your body (like your ankles, face and feet) while also having stomach bloating, if you have a condition that’s causing both. For many people, the cause of excessive gas in the intestines boils down to: inadequate protein digestion (causing some foods to ferment), inability to break down sugar and carbohydrates fully (certain complex sugar compounds need the presence of enzymes to be digested fully, yet people can be lacking these), and imbalances in gut bacteria. In the digestive tract, there are trillions of healthy and unhealthy bacteria that compete, and when “bad bacteria” outweigh the good for one reason or another, an imbalance can lead to abdominal bloating and excessive gas. Start by determining if you might be dealing with an underlying health issue that can cause bloating or whether there are certain foods that your stomach is not digesting. Always consult a doctor if you are in doubt or if your symptoms persist for a long time. December 2018

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It's Beginning to Look a Lot Like Christmas

Review on

Manouche Craft Bakery & Bistro

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December 2018

t's beginning to look a lot like Christmas at Manouche with many hands helping out in the preparation of sweets, pastry and cakes. The smell of cinnamon blending with other spices and brandy embraces each client into the Festive Season mood. At Manouche, it is also that time of the year when the kitchen is busy preparing roasts and other delicacies to entertain its guests during Christmas time. Whilst waiting for Matthew, Byorn Attard and Bjorn Bartolo, I peep through the door that leads to the kitchen. Every corner that grand kitchen is jam-packed with pots and pans, all full of different sweet and salty recipes ready to be baked and displayed to tease the inquisitive eye of every passer by. The place is indeed a chorus of aromas which perfectly fit together with the Christmas melody in the background.

The three artifices of this amazing outlet greet me and invite me over to a table for a chat over a coffee. Keeping in mind their very busy agenda, I quickly set the tone of our discussion by asking them on how would they judge Manouche's first year in operation. They note that "it was a very busy year during which we tried many new products." However, they stress that they are still in a learning curve . "We saw what people want. There were things we thought would work, yet did not. On the other hand there were things we were sceptic about the market's receptiveness yet which turned out to be a success." The experimentation process did not involve only food but also the entire structure of the outlet's operation. " We have changed the counter until we got where we are yet feel there is still more to improve so as to ensure every client's expectations." Hand on heart, they admit "We made some mistakes in the beginning yet learnt from them and are now moving forward. We also introducing a different process where orders are taken at the table rather than at the counter. We understood that our previous method did not really work and are now opting for a new modus operandi where we can spoil our customers." The structural changes have also effected the role of each key person at Manouche including the directors. They point out that "We are today organized in a more clear way where Matthew and Bjorn handle the operations, Jonathan and Steve handle the salt section whilst Byorn spearheads the sweet section. Notwithstanding the challenges this process brings along, they feel change is positive as it keeps clients on their toes and ensures the outlet continues to evolve.

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Manouche

They shift their conversation on to the market's knowledge on the outlet. Matthew points out that social media worked very well, to raise awareness especially through Facebook and Instagram. However in hindsight, they feel too much emphasis was dedicated to their pastry section which hindered the bistro section. The current marketing strategy is aimed at rectifying such misbalance and offer a more holistic picture of what Manouche offers. They also note that initially, the outlet had a casual feel yet they are gradually developing the outlet into a more formal concept. Bjorn notes that it is a leaner menu but more stable and clear in what Manouche offers. Matthew points out that Human Resources was a very hard nut to crack. "It is hard to find talent. We are to a certain extent very lucky to have a team which has been with us for quite some time on previous projects "It is only thanks to such a great team that we were able to accomplish our goal." Despite having a good team, they note that they are investing heavily in customer care training which will ensure a better service. I ask what has earned them such a reputation on the market to which they promptly note that "It is the quality of the product. We choose quality over cost. We do not compromise quality for money. People can feel the high level of a product. Today people are exposed to several outlets and can compare, evaluate and determine between good and bad. A quality product comes at a cost and must inevitably reflect itself

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in the price yet we feel we have struck the right chord on the market with a value for money product." Our conversation inevitably shifts on to the Festive Season, They developed a menu which seeks to create that homely Christmas spirit with e selection of duck, beef, chicken,turkey and pork roasts. "It is an AngloMaltese Christmas concept with the traditional gravy, Yorkshire pudding, and vegetables." They also note that "on Christmas Day we have prepared a specific menu which includes brussels sprouts, chestnuts, and root vegetables among others. From a sweet point of view, the place will be very busy during this time of the year where a selection of traditional sweets will come together with a couple of novelties they have in store. "Our selection will include the traditional Christmas cake and our artisan panettone with candied fruit or chocolate. We will also have a vĂ ast selection of chocolates." It is time for me to conclude yet before I call it a day, I ask them whether they have any New Year resolutions for 2019. They note that there is quite a lot in store for the coming year. "People should keep an eye especially on the first quarter of 2019 with a few novelties including some degustation sessions. We are also vying the option to enter the wedding industry by offering patiserrie and chocolate tables based on seasonal selections. We fondly wait for the next year to take Manouche to the next level."

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The

Cherry on the Cake

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Interview with

Nina

Tarasova, Pastry Art Chef

Up your festive baking game! - Balluta - San Gwann - Smart Supermarket (Outlet), Bâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;Kara

- Is Suq tal Belt (Valletta)

here is a common consensus among all food critics that Nina Tarasova is one of the best pastry art chefs in the world. Her work is a perfect combination of colours and design which are exalted by her unique French-inspired style. Her social network pages are a feast for the eyes. Each image she posts keeps you engaged and makes you wonder how a pair of hands can ever create such beauty. With notebook in hand, she is always drawing new sketches for creations and jotting down ideas in the most unsuspecting places and times of the day. For her, this is the best way to dealing with the obsession she feels for a profession she cannot stop thinking about. Nina shared with us her passion for pastry, what the Festive Season will bring to her kitchen and her plans for the future.

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FOOD STORES

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NINA TARASOVA

You recently noted that a dessert is like "a finishing chord in a splendid part of a lunch or dinner." Can you elaborate? This expression is certainly suitable for restaurant desserts. Since I am currently working in a gourmet restaurant "All Seasons" in St. Petersburg, I understand that is what our guests are waiting for at the end of the meal. This is a small dessert, but with a bright taste, with a perfect balance of aftertaste and texture to complete a pleasant lunch or dinner in our restaurant. It should not be large in size and should not be heavy in taste. It should be exactly like a "cherry on the cake" - a light touch that leaves the most pleasant memories and feelings for a long time.

You also often insist that apart from inventing, creating and serving a dessert, you have to make it the best one. How do you ensure a dessert stands out of the crowd? I can't be sure about that, but I do my best to make it memorable.

What added value does a French touch have on pastry? Since I studied in France, of course, it is the French trends that influence in many ways on my growth and my development, the taste components and ingredients that I use. France gave me the initial impetus and continues to motivate me to new culinary achievements.

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NINA TARASOVA

You often stress on scheme. Why is scheme so important in the development of any pastry? For me this is the diagram of the assembly of the dessert - without this you cannot do a dessert. Before I even begin to prescribe the recipe, first I sketch the scheme of the composition and assembly of the future individual cake or entremet, and only then I fill it with forms and calculations.

What makes Christmas such a special time of the year in the kitchen? Christmas for me is chocolate and spices, warm shades of food, alcohol in desserts. It is mulled wine and citrus, it is spices and dried fruits! During the summer we start to miss the warm, rich colours and winter gives us the opportunity to fully turn in this direction.

Is colour a necessary ingredient during this time of the year? I think colour plays a secondary role; the first place for me is always the taste.

In a recent interview you noted, "Thanks to colour, we imagine what taste will be in a future.â&#x20AC;? How? We convey the mood and "hint" of the composition with colour, the taste of the future dessert. We cannot, for example, cover the cake with white icing, if there is a chocolate mousse with cherry jelly inside. It's not logical. Colour - is a hint. The external colour of the dessert is supposed to be natural, "edible" colours. Blue, for example, does not cause appetite at all.

What pastry do you associate with this time of the year? With Christmas I associate the teacakes that need a long time to be infused with alcohol, so they are "matured" for Christmas.

Have you planned any New Year pastry resolutions? Yes, certainly. I am already thinking of a new concept. 174

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of the winemaker, the grape variety, the country of origin, a brief description of the wine palate and wine body, the proper food pairing that is available on the restaurant’s food menu and the price per glass or bottle. When the host orders the wine the waiter or sommellier should repeat the name of the wine to make sure that its the one you ordered.

Wines

Spirits

Prop. Stanley Cauchi

Sometimes wine is a complex drink and serving it in different glasses can change the way it tastes. The waiter or sommellier has to figure out which wine glasses fits the wine you’ve chosen because it will make your wine taste better. When bringing the wine glasses to the table these should be handled from the stem and not from the bowl. The serving temperature is extremely important and crucial to unlocking the full flavours and aromas of a wine. It is important to remember that each wine has an ideal serving temperature and one temperature is not suitable for all. A good range for serving red wine is 13° to 18°C. Lighter white wines are served chilled, between 7° to 10° C. White wines with more body, or oak, should be served at a warmer temperature of 10° to 13°C just lightly chilled and sparkling wines are best served well chilled, at 6° to 10° C. If you are not in a high class restaurant you cannot pretend an elaborated ritual for the opening of a bottle of wine but one at least pretends that the basic steps are being observed. These include the way to cut the foil which is done mainly at the top or bottom lip of the bottle with the use of a foil cutter, preventing the cork from breaking, pouring the wine in an adequate manner and serving the patrons in the right order. Nearly every red wine tastes better decanted since it will greatly improve its flavour. Decanting may not look like much, but the increased oxygen exposure to wine greatly improves the taste by softening astringent tannins and letting fruit and floral aromas come out. Full bodied white wines can also be decanted. A faster way is to use a wine aerator which decants wine almost instantaneously. A bottle of wine contains 750ml so it’s common to see it portioned out into five servings of 150ml each. When paying by the glass, approx. 180 ml servings are poured . The remaining space in the glass is designed to hold aromas, so try your best not to overfill since you will not have adequate space to swirl the wine. Personally I prefer not to decant sparkling wine since you will loose the concentration of the bubbles when pouring back into the glass.

Are you being served......... the right way ? As Christmas approaches, our dining activities will start piling up rapidly. Wine consuming will also increase during this festive season and almost everyone will sip a little bit of wine during a lunch or dinner. But what do we expect when we are being served wine? We shall take a quick look into this. It all starts at the table when we are presented with the wine list. Almost all restaurants include a wine list in their menu and if it’s a more chic restaurant, the wine list is presented in a seperate menu. Everybody has his own style or thoughts on how to present a wine list to his patrons although there are some basics that one pretends to find. Not everybody is a connoisseur or a keen knowledge about wine. Setting down an encyclopedic size list can be one of the quickest ways to turn off your customers. While many guests are happy to ask the wine steward or waiter for recommendations, the menu itself can also be utilized as a sales tool. A wine list should include a variety of wines balanced between personality and pair-ability. It should also be balanced pricewise. In my opinion, next to the wine name one should find: the name 176

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Hold all stemmed wine glasses towards the base of the stem between your thumb, forefinger and middle finger. Swirl your wine to agitate the aromas. The main reasons for holding the glass from the stem is to avoid greasy hand prints on the bowl on to retain the wine’s preferred temperature. Drink from the same spot to keep the glass clean. The most important element that will keep guests coming back to a restaurant or wine store, is originality. There are enough restaurants and wine stores out there, each pouring a stock list of wines that each seem to have originated from the same outdated wine program. As such, it is easy enough to set yourself apart from these restaurant and wine store dinosaurs simply by featuring unique selections from smaller producers on your list. Please feel free to send your questions to ilbettija@go.net.mt or PM on facebook and we can suggest the right wines for you. Happy Christmas and a Happy New Year from Il-Bettija Wines and Spirits.

28, Triq Guze` Duca, Qormi. Qrm9088, Malta w. www.ilbettija.com.mt - e. bettija@go.net.mt t. 2149 0110 - m. 7939 0110

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