7 minute read
A Master of Balance
from Delicious No: 18
by Union Print
MASTER OF BALANCE A
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Interview with JOAN ROCA, O ften described as humble, nurturing and inspiring, Chef Joan Roca is also a deeply competitive, ambitious and driven person. Every plate he prepares is based on the
El Cellar de Can Roca premise that a dining experience is intimately tied to the senses, not just in taste but in sight, sound, touch and smell. Joan is a true genius that reveres tradition but is not encumbered by it in his cooking. His dishes succeed because of his careful attention to balance, creating plates that contain sweet, savoury, sour and salty notes, all in harmony. He’s also not afraid to embrace modern technology, using sous vide to create some of his signature dishes. Joan shared with Delicious his intimate relationship with the culinary world, how modern technology fits into his kitchen ands plans for the future.
In what way has your mother influenced your professional journey? My mother taught us how to cook, how to love the trade, and passed on to us important values such as a generosity, effort, commitment, hospitality and patience. And the most important thing, it was possible to live with the family and make the restaurant your passion, your way of life.
Food critics have often stressed on your attention to balance, creating plates that contain sweet, savory, sour and salty notes, all in harmony. How to you create such a perfect balance? El Celler de Can Roca is a sum of worlds that unite. A fluid dialogue with the guiding thread of passion, diversion, rigour, and the inspiration of three that come together in a rich and transversal harmony. The combination of the three disciplines that each of us contributes, salty cuisine, liquid world, and sweet world, allows us to create, in conjunction, experiences that survive in the memory of the diner beyond the ephemeral that is at the end our work.
How does modern technology fit into your kitchen? The cooking of emotions in the guiding thread. We take advantage of technology to reach the emotion without renouncing the flavour. Taste is the most important thing and technology has to help enhance it without masking it. From here, technology makes our work easier and opens up a window of opportunity. The kitchen is precision and helps us to approach perfection, now behind every appliance there is a human person.
What makes olive oil your favorite ingredient? Olive oil, a Mediterranean treasure, also a very good conductor for aromas, to prepare emulsions and sauces. In what way is a dining experience as intimately tied to the senses? We pretend to create an emotional trip through the taste, which awakens memories, an experience of well-being, of reunion…
You have recently noted; "The hardest thing is to work with people and keep your team happy." Why? It is not easy to manage a team of 35 young chefs, with talent and eager to show that they do well. Manage this it is not easy. Since we moved to the new restaurant, thirteen years ago, our situation has changed. We have changed the tension for the concentration. Having the equipment, the tool, that everything is in place, the machines, the product, the clear concept, the space, reduces the tension.
Describe the atmosphere in the kitchen at El Cellar de Can Roca? You breathe respect, concentrated passion.
Spain has been a hotspot on the culinary map for many years. How do you think it is developing to continue attracting gourmets for its cuisine? The Spanish cuisine lives an excellent moment fruit of a solid tradition. It first committed to innovation and technology and, in a second phase, it was able to defend and respect the excellent product that we have in our geography. Now it is looking for new horizons from the commitment to excellence and creativity, giving rise to different stories of mature cuisine and personality, all of the interesting.
Who makes Catalan cuisine stand out of the crowd? Catalan cuisine always has had an important prestige, since the 14th century, there have always been periods
of great importance in Catalan cuisine. The richness and literary weight of Catalan cuisine is fascinating. Catalan cuisine is a cuisine that has involved and has been projected internationally thanks to the roots of a deep tradition. The circumstances that produced that at a certain point in modern history, the creative talent and innovative spirit of the cooks, and the high quality of the products of the land could enhance the recognition of the excellence of our cuisine, both traditional and modern aspects.
What's next for you? Prolong the present, fortunately for a few years we find ourselves in a magical moment in this house and I would like the dream to be fulfilled was to lengthen the present as much time as possible, regardless of the recognitions we have received, I do not mean that, but I mean to keep the illusion, the motivation, the commitment of the wonderful team that is around. To be able to drag this out in time would be wonderful.
One of a KIND
REVIEW ON CAVIAR&BULL
There is something particular at Caviar&Bull which certainly makes it one of the best restaurants on the island.
Located in St. Julian’s with striking views across St. Georges Bay, Caviar&Bull is the perfect venue for dining out in Malta. A gastronomic menu of mouthwatering dishes of locally sourced ingredients await. The food, the place, the location, the service and the ambience come together to create a unique culinary experience which captivates you the moment you step into the restaurant. The concept has also made its way beyond our shores in Budapest. Caviar&Bull is the brain child of Chef Marvin Gauci, a name which certainly needs no introduction both on the local and international plane.
A food enthusiast recentlywrote on Tripadvisor that atCaviar&Bull “They make an art out of the food they serve. Creative and delicious, innovative and beautiful plates.” Indeed, they do! The food is impressive and highlights Marvin’s culinary flair and sharp eye for detail. Caviar&Bull is in sync with his continuous effort to provide a high quality product and service. Every dish is made from high quality ingredients and gives attention to detail which ensures every plate stands out for its taste, flavour and originality.
The menu at Caviar&Bull is a true work of art. It is a mix of innovative and classic concepts which tease the taste buds of any food enthusiast who pays a visit to the outlet. Seared Bull Carpaccio Smoked with Oak, Prawns Samurai Tempura, Fois Gras Poele, perfectly complement other starter classics such as Bufala Mozzarella and the Mediterranean Ocotopus. And what about the pasta? Tagliatelle Tan-Nanna Mananni, Fettucine Prawns and Lamb Tortellacci are just a few teasers of what to expect. On the other hand, the selection of mains is impressive. Barbary Duck Breast Double Tempoblack Angus beef Cheeks, Seabass Iceberg Flambé are a few of the names you will across whilst reading through the mains. But the real signature dishes at Caviar&Bull are the Lobster Popcorn, the Seared Wagyu Beef Carpaccio and the Classic Wagyu Tacos. For those with a sweet tooth, rest assured you will not be disappointed. The place also offers degustation menus. For those, who never tried them, simply go for it! They are divine! The outlet is not only a food experience; the place offers you the possibility to pull up a stool at the champagne and oyster bar, or meet with friends in the lounge, over cocktails with a molecular twist.
On the hand Caviar&Bull Budapest, is a real gem which walks on the footsteps of its Maltese counterpart yet ensures a clear Hungarian imprint in its design as well as in the menu. Local fresh ingredients, sourced from the best suppliers harmoniously coexist with Caviar&Bull signature dishes and key staples of Hungarian cuisine such as the use of the Local Grey Cattle, Mangalica Pig, Foie Gras, Paprika and Tokaj Wine.
The place is certainly worth a try so whilst walking planning your next evening out, think about Caviar&Bull. You will surely not be disappointed!
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