Summer Blues

Summer Blues at BAHIA

Review on BAHIA

It is impressive how Bahia continues to offer consistency both in its food and service. It is said that to be a truly great chef, one needs to write one’s own culinary language and I must say, Chef Tyrone Mizzi, Chef Carlos Buttigieg and their team are truly capable of doing that. The restaurant is a true gem under the watchful eyes of Colin Ciantar and blessed by the creative hands of two of Malta’s most talented chefs. Their work simply amazing and constantly create incredible dishes with that little touch of wow which changes any dining experience from a normal experience to something you will remember for a long time. Food at Bahia is based on four fundamentals; deliciousness, beauty, creativity and intention. The combination of this quartet creates the magic which has made Bahia stand out of such a busy crowd.

It is by no coincidence that in a recent review, Bahia was described as, “Excellent! Service was very attentive and up to the Malta Michelin Guide list status acquired. The food was well presented, the tastes meticulously structured. From the richness of the snail and lacto tart combo, to the endive salad bite surprise, the place left us want for more! Great selection of wines. Will definitely be back for more. Thanks for the experience!”

Their summer menu is no exception. The COVID-19 pandemic has not deterred their mood and the boys in the kitchen have prepared a selection of dishes to die for. Their Caprese Tart is simply divine. The combination of arugula pesto, heirloom tomato jam and local ‘mozzarella di bufala’ with that touch of white balsamic is so intense. The tart gets an extra kick with a crispy base perfectly cooked. The moment you bite into the tart, you can feel that sense of freshness which can only be offered by a genuine local produce well handled by some truly capable hands. For those into some good pairing, the tart fits perfectly with a good Spanish Freixenet Cordon Negro Cava Brut. What can exceed our expectations after such an exquisite tart? Surprisingly, there are other starter dishes in for that challenge. The Ricotta Gnocchi with Sea Urchins and Parsley Oil are truly out of this world. The blend of sea urchins and parsley oil is so intense and combines in such an exceptional way with the ricotta gnocchi. Once you finish the gnocchi do not shy away. Ask for an extra piece of bread and do make sure to dip a piece into the remaining gravy. This dish fits perfectly with a Rosé Berne Inspiration, Côles de Provence wine. Its rich and full of intense fruit, a tangy pepper background gives a bright, crisp finish gives the dish that extra pinch. The starter menu at Bahia, includes other delicacies such as Chilled Pea Soup and ‘Labneh’, Breaded Veal Sweetbread Caesar Salad and Lamb Carbonara and Zucchini Acquerello Risotto.

The selection of mains are also impressive. Their fresh local caught fish accompanied with Cabbage in XO Sauce, toasted Sesame Seeds and Oyster Chantilly is a must to try out. The fish is cooked to perfection. On the other hand, the cabbage taste is exceptional. The taste of XO sauce, a truly flavour-bomb condiment rich with dried seafood and cured ham perfectly combines with the smooth taste of cabbage. The sesame seeds add that extra touch both in taste and presentation. The oyster chantilly is the cherry on the cake of such an amazing dish. A Sauvignon Blanc, Conte della Vipera, Antinori is the perfect final touch to such an amazing dish. For those who prefer meats, the Grilled Garlic and Rosemary Leg of lamb with Miso Glazed Auabergine, ‘Xemxija’ Caper Shoots and Jus is your choice. The lamb is cooked to perfection with that taste of grill combined with the intense flavour only rosemary can offer. The miso glazed aubergine is amazing both in taste and flavour, complementing the traditional taste of the leg of lamb. The choice of wine for this dish is surely a Lungarotti Rosso di Montefalco 2013. Bahia offers other main course optons which include Cheeks of Local Pork and Slow

Roasted Yellow Onion with Hazelnut, Soya Cream, Bulgar Wheat, Celery and Verbena.

For those with a sweet tooth, Bahia will surely not disappoint you. Poached Peach with Dehydrated Maltese Honey ‘Microwaved’ Sponge Cake and Jivara Chocolate Namelaka and Almond Sable Biscuit with Banana and Peanut Crémeux, Crystallized Salted Peanuts and Espresso Granita are a few of the mind-blowing sweet delicacies you will come across on their menu. A Ben Ryè, Donnafugata will surely conclude your meal in the best possible manner.

Bahia is indeed a celebration of food which reaches its epitome during the summer season. The choice of food prepared during this time of the year is simply amazing and worth to enjoy with your loved ones. Booking is certainly a must so as to avoid any unnecessary disappointments.

Truly Lavish A EXPERIENCE

Sheltered among the imposing bastions that rest on the Marsamxett harbour shoreline, a few meters away from the Valletta Waterpolo pitch, lies one of Malta’s leading restaurants. Since the outlet opened its doors, Capo Crudo took the market by storm piquing the curiosity of all local and foreign gastro enthusiasts.

The outlet has a touch of class which is complemented by a good dose of contemporary feel and a pinch of boldness which is evident in the choice of furniture and decor including the glossy red, life-size sculpture of a bowing man and other bright coloured patterns near the entrance. The restaurant is divided in open plan sections where on entering one enters the cocktail bar and lounge, from which one moves to the main restaurant; on one side the open kitchen is situated and on the other side a top class wine cellar; from there one finds a semi private dining area with a large chef’s table set-up . The outlet’s relaxed ambience is well complemented by the magnificent open views of Marsamxett harbour and the Sliema seafront through the glass partition outside walls.

The center of attraction at Capo Crudo is food. The menu is indeed a pleasure for the eye with such an impressive selection of crudi, and carpacci to start with, an astonishing choice of starters and pasta to follow and a jaw dropping selection of fish and meat main courses which include lamb confit, lobster from the tank and braised octopus among others. No meal would end on sweet note without a selection of desserts to choose from. Every item on the menu has a story waiting to be discovered by all those who choose to dine

at Capo Crudo. To accompany every meal, Capo Crudo offers a vast selection of wines available sourced from the best wineries across the globe. The place also boasts a great selection of liquors and spirits which serve as a perfect intro or conclusion to any meal.

It is by no coincidence that Capo Crudo boasts an impressive accolade of awards which includes Best Chef Award 2018 - Chef’s Award for artistic Presentation - Front of House Manager Achievement Award - Restaurant Award Winner 2019 - Wine experience of the year 2018 - Awards for the 30 best restaurants in the Maltese Islands - Award for participation Cibo Nostrum 2018 - Award for the top best 50 restaurants Malta - Award for participation Sicilia da Gustare - Silver spoon award 2019 - Award for participation Cookin’Med - 2018 Award winner most popular for Business Entertainment - Award for participation Cibo Nostrum 2019. Capo Crudo was also recently included in the Malta Michelin Guide 2020 list.

Whilst driving down to Valletta, keep in mind Capo Crudo and make sure you drop for an unforgettable food experience.

BACK TO THE CORE

Interview with STEPHEN & JAMES SCHIAVONE, TARTARUN

Of the many industries that have been struck by the Covid-19 pandemic, the restaurant industry has perhaps been hit the hardest. Delivery-focused operations that rely on cheap, simple ingredients may be better-positioned to ride out the worst of the pandemic, but restaurants that rely on sourcing and preparing local, quality ingredients to serve to in-house diners had to shut down almost overnight. The pandemic spared no mercy on the identical twin brothers, Stephen and James Schiavone. Indeed, like many other counterparts the COVID-19 pandemic was a storm on a sunny day. It was something they did not expect or plan for.

Yet they faced the challenge. They always worked on the principle; in it together. Indeed, together they have faced many challenges and COVID-19 is another battle they do not intend to lose. At the end of the day, they have a solid base to work on which is their family run restaurant, Tartarun which has recently been included in Malta’s Michelin Guide. Stephen notes; “Employee safety and retention was our primary concern. Like other businesses we were thinking hard to be able to make a product deliverable.”

James notes; “During the COVID-19 pandemic outbreak we closed our Deck & Morsel outlet in Smart City for good and altered our kitchen setup at Tartarun to incorporate a Deck & Morsel food delivery menu concept with a specific menu whilst working on a Tartarun Home concept.

The Tartarun home menu included their new add on fish charcuterie from dry cured fish hams to fish guanciale and swordfish bacon. All are served with grissini, smoked butter, condiments & lacto fermented cucumber. The menu also has daily prepared specials of; local octopus & lardo; swordfish carpaccio, caper puree and cucumber; Santona anchovies; fish tartar, miso & irazake. Ready made pasta sauces like cuttle fish ink sauce and octopus Bolognese. They also introduced the concept of D.I.Y meals.

The covid pandemic has highlighted the importance of e–commerce and an eshop is definitely in the pipeline to better promote this concept. The Schiavone brothers are also focusing further on their selection of imported wines and champagnes sourced from boutique wineries.

Above all though, the Stephen and James want to consolidate their foundations and focus all their energy at Tartarun. James notes; “We do not only want to continue exalting what the Maltese sea has to offer, but also to give guests a truly fish dining experience. James’ kitchen is today inspired by the famous Australian Chef Josh Niland who champions a ‘fin to gill’ approach to seafood cooker. James notes; “it is not just Niland’s curing, drying and aging of fish that inspires me, but the sentiment that underlines his approach to sustainability and fish food waste, his business model for a seafood restaurant, and his drive to push the boundaries of flavour.

WE DO NOT ONLY WANT TO CONTINUE EXALTING WHAT THE MALTESE SEA HAS TO OFFER, BUT ALSO TO GIVE GUESTS A TRULY FISH DINING EXPERIENCE.

On a last note James and Stephen tell me that “The COVID-19 pandemic brought us to a halt and took us back to the drawing board forcing us to reconsider our plans. It was a big blow for us like many yet with determination, perseverance and a will to move on, we are facing the challenge. Together and with the unconditional support of our parents, we always weathered the storm. Keeping in mind that there is light at the end of any tunnel, we will continue to strive in order to reach our goals.

TASTE OF PERFECTION A

There is something striking about The Golden Fork restaurant which goes beyond the name, the outlet and the location. The moment you will dine there, you will realise that the outlet’s attraction has much to do with chef patron, Letizia Vella. Brilliant as ever, Letizia’s Golden Fork is a real knockout where every meal is a total indulgence and a true culinary adventure that treats your mouth, stomach and spirit in such a special way.

The place is a true gem in all senses. The restaurant tries as hard as any I know to bring delight to the table with every course. It succeeds so often that only the most determinedly grumpy souls could resist. Even the spoken intros have a role. They serve to tee up the surprises that emerge from the kitchen, which reliably turn sceptics into swooners. It is by no coincidence that Letizia is considered by many food critics as a true talent and one of the major exponents of the local food industry. It is also by no coincidence that the Golden Fork has recently been included in The Michelin Guide Malta 2020. Her curriculum vitae is impressive boasting experiences at Heston Blumenthal’s three Michelin Star restaurant, The Fat Duck and also at Blumenthal’s Dinner by Heston.

Letizia is, at heart, a neo-classicist, a master of pruning

EXALT THE BEAUTY IN EVERY INGREDIENT AND ABOVE ALL ENSURE IT TASTES AMAZING.

the old-fashioned curlicues from the traditional haute cuisine of her training to make the pleasures more modern and direct. Indeed, Letizia’s food ethos is spelt out in every dish prepared. Every dish is borne by the fundamental principle to keep it simple, exalt the beauty in every ingredient and above all ensure it tastes amazing. At the heart of every dish she prepares, lies a cuisine which stresses on local genuine fresh ingredients.

Portobello Mushroom Mousse, Pork Confit Terrine and Parfait Cigar, and Slow Cooked Spiced Octopus are some of the teasers on the Golden Fork menu to start with. And what about the choice of main course? An impressive selection of Honey Roasted Duck Breast, Ox Cheek, Savoy Cabbage Tempura and Local Fresh Fish are what to expect.

For all those who love to end a meal with a sweet taste, Letizia has prepared a selection which includes a Baked White Chocolate and Baileys Cheesecake, a Cloud Caramelized Brioche and a Cookie Sandwich just to mention a few.

The place is a food experience and is certainly not to be missed. Your taste buds deserve to be pampered well and The Golden Fork is the choice for such a treat.

EVERY DISH IS BORNE BY THE FUNDAMENTAL PRINCIPLE TO KEEP IT SIMPLE.

THE ART OF FOOD

Interview with JOSEPH CAUCHI

What happens when a 17th century palazzo meets a Mediterranean food concept and a pair of creative hands? The outcome is Guzé Bistro, one of Malta’s finest eateries which has recently been included Michelin Guide Malta 2020 list. Indeed, Guzé is the place to be for all those who appreciate the beauty of the local culinary industry. Both their à la carte and tasting menus are impressive and portray the talent of a great team that amazes all those who pay a visit to restaurant. It also conveys the vision of Joseph Cauchi, owner of Guzé. We recently caught up with Joseph who shared with us what encouraged him to take over the place in 2009, the style you will come across whilst dining at Guzé and his plans for the future.

What encouraged you way back in 2009 to take over the property? It was the perfect location to accomplish a lifelong dream, having a restaurant where I could offer a dining experience that is as unique as its setting.

I recently read that over the years the style of Guzé’s food has developed but techniques and passion have remained the same. Can you elaborate on that? Well, I definitely have continued to grow and develop myself and my passion for food. Food is an art form and as such it needs to grow, flow and change. Otherwise it stagnates like water.

Many reviews seem to stress on the flavours of your food. Why? What really makes Guzé stand out in such a busy industry? I am inspired by local produce and local flavours and I love experimenting with unexpected combinations of ingredients. Taste and flavour create a memory. Think of a dish you loved as a child – the memory of flavour remains.

How can a restaurant offer a good dining experience? A dining experience needs to be a holistic experience which engages all your senses. Ambience is important, service is important but what remains paramount to this is the food – the way it is presented, the quality of ingredients and of course flavour. In what way do you ensure that seasonal produce and dishes are developed to make the taste as natural as possible? It is always best to work with what you have, to source your ingredients locally, at least as much as possible. We also try to use sustainable sources as it is important to be very much aware of the source of your produce and the practices used in its production.

What does it mean for Guzé to be included in the 2020 Michelin Guide Malta? It means a lot. It is a lifelong dream come true. It feels we are now part of a greater community, a community which cherishes food as an art form and a culture.

What challenges has COVID-19 offered to Guzé? COVID-19 pretty much pulled the rug from under our feet. Just a couple of weeks after the euphoria of being included in the Michelin Guide we had to close our doors. It was one of the hardest things I’ve ever had to face.

How do you feel COVID-19 will affect consumer behaviour in the coming months? What’s next for Guzé? At Guzé we are adamant not to let this break us. We will continue to push on and in fact our post COVID menu is testimony to this. We were closed but not idle. I believe consumers will be more selective now and definitely more cautious but life must go on even if things won’t be the same.

Taking it to the Root

REVIEW ON ROOT 81

Amongst the several doors along the Saqqajja steps in Rabat lies one of Malta’s best eateries. Root 81 is considered by many local food critics as a true ambassador of Malta’s food excellence. Sublime, exquisite, and outstanding are some of the words often used to describe a dinner at Root 81. The place, the service and the food fit perfectly together to provide every guest with a true gastronomical experience. It is by no coincidence that chef patron, Robert Cassar was recently awarded the chef of the year at 2020 Definitive(ly) Good Guide Restaurants Awards. It is by no coincidence either that Root 81 has recently been listed in the Malta Michelin Guide 2020.

The past few months were quite hectic for Robert who was busy moving a few doors up from his former outlet. The place is bigger with more space on the outside and with three small balconies which offer breathtaking views of the countryside that stretches from Buskett up to the Freeport. Although bigger, the place continues to offer a sweet homely taste which is complemented by a radiant golden colour which emanates from the old limestone walls and a colourful modern touch offered by the choice of lighting and other decor present in every corner of the outlet.

Root 81 also continues to offer the same food concept. Indeed, Robert and his team continue to do what they love most - entertaining guests with good food focused on local produce. With the exception of a few changes here and there, the style remains unvaried and is still presented in a simple manner so as to give due merit to the natural flavours of every component present in his

plates. Colour continues to be a predominant theme of every plate prepared at Root 81. Every dish is a game of tastes, colours and shapes. Whether it is a starter, a main course or a dessert, every dish highlights the passion, determination and culinary flair of one of Malta’s leading culinary talents.

The summer menu is based on the same principles and includes an interesting selection of starters which includes Seared Scallops with Cauliflower Purée, Couscous, Shavings and Hazelnut Dressing, Local Goat Cheese Fritters with Petite Salad and Caramelised Onion Chutney, Beef Tartare with Parmesan Crisps, Dijon Mustard, Confit Egg Yolk and Bread; and Chicken Liver Paté with Fig Chutney and Brioche and Octopus Terrine with Capers, Olives and Citrus Dressing are a few concepts to choose from as a start to your meal. The list of main course dishes is quite a tricky one. It is hard to choose between Beer Braised Beef Cheek, a Trio of Local Rabbit and Wild Mushroom

Wellington. The menu also includes a selection of grills. One can also opt for a degustation menu. The selection of sweets is also impressive with Pistacchio Crème Brûlée, Chocolate and Orange Bavarois and Warm Chocolate Brownie just to mention a few of the delicacies to choose from. This impressive menu is well complemented by an excellent service and a sweet breeze.

The summer menu seems to be the prelude for more to come. Indeed, Robert has a couple of ideas up his sleeve for the coming months. “A healthy growth for Root 81 is my priority. Notwithstanding the relatively young age of the outlet and the challenges offered by COVID-19 we are gradually increasing in numbers which encourages me to work harder, think outside the box and create more. We are currently working on something new to keep our clients on their toes.” For those who have not yet paid a visit to the outlet, do make sure you keep Root 81 on your radar when planning out your next dine out.