Delicious No16 by Union Print

An Autumn Harvest

DELICIOUS AITOR ARREGUI A Legendary Turbot

RYANJAMES BEZZINLOWE A Common Sense

VICTOR BORG Food Glorious Food

THE THREE PALACES FESTIVAL

VALLETTA - MDINA - NAXXAR

THE THREE PALACES Realising that our ordinary is actually extraordinary!

1-10 NOVEMBER 2019

Tickets from: kultura.mt

www

festivals.mt

Food For Printing & Publishing: Union Print Co. Ltd, Workers' Memorial Building, 3rd Floor, South Street, Valletta +356 2590 0200 Editor: Omar Vella delicious@unionprint.com.mt Proof Reading: Ramona Marie Vella Cini Marthese Cauchi Design: Ryan Bezzina design@unionprint.com.mt

Fall has always been my favorite season. The time when everything bursts with its last beauty, as if nature had been saving up all year for the grand finale. Lauren DeStefano, Wither

Front image: Courtesy of Grain Photography Brian Grech Index image: Courtesy Josean Martinez Alija Photography Andoni Epelde Photos: We thank all contributers for providing photos and images. Other photos taken by Alan Saliba Recipes: We thank all contributers for the recipes provided Advertising: info@unionprint.com.mt +356 2590 0200

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Thought A

utumn is back and together with it, the distinctive features that make it stand out from the rest. Earth colours dominate the countryside, fashion outlets prepare the transition of clothes from summer to winter and the world of food experiences a dramatic metamorphosis where cold pastas and ice-creams make their way for pies, casseroles and roasts prepared with seasonal produce. The local kitchen exalts itself during this time of the year with the availability of lampuki, calamari, quail and other local produce such as oranges, pumpkin and squash. In this issue we had the opportunity to see autumn through the eyes of several local and foreign chefs. Autumn is such a great season which has so much to offer to all those who love food. I wish you all a pleasant read!

While we make every effort to make sure that the content of Delicious is correct, we cannot take any responsibility nor be held accountable for any factual errors printed.

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All pictures shown are for illustration purpose only. Actual products may vary.

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INDEX 06 Jorge Vallejo 12 Josean Martinez Alija 18 Ryan Galea 22 James Lowe 28 Manoella Buffara 38 José De Avillez

From the Land to the Table The Critical Role of Research Beauty is in the Detail Common Sense

A Focus on Sustainability

A Theorist of Diversification

Burnay Ereira

58 Grana

A Taste of Italy

72 Aitor Arregui 78 Tyrone Agius 82 Letizia Vella 98 Victor Borg 104 Review on Manouche 108 Gale Gand A Legendary Turbot Driven by curiosity, inspired by passion

One of a Kind

Food Glorious Food:

It’s that time of the year at Manouche

A Spoon Full of Sugar

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FROM THE

LAND TABLE to the

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Interview with

JORGE Vallejo, Quintonil Restaurant

here is a direct connection between Chef Jorge Vallejo and Mexico’s food culture and heritage. Every dish reflects what the Mexican land has to offer and brings to life authentic recipes from every corner of the country with the aromas, textures and combinations of homemade recipes prepared by his grandmother and mother when he was still a child. His work is pure class and is constantly becoming more natural and simultaneously increasingly polished and sophisticated. It is by no coincidence that Chef Vallejo is regarded by international food critics as one of the best ambassadors of Mexico’s young generation of talents in the kitchen. Chef Vallejo talks about his path to Quintonil, his key role played by his mentor Enrique Olvera of Pujol, and the evolution of Mexican cuisine.

I read that as a young man, you were torn between being a veterinarian and a cook. What encouraged you to opt for the culinary path? The truth is that in the end it was not a big dilemma. While I love animals and I have many at home, I prefer to have them around with me than to deal with their suffering. That is why I admire veterinarians so much, they are like firefighters, they solve what we don’t want to face and what terrifies us. However, I do have a vocation for cooking. Since I was a child I have been close to food and now on my menu I have dishes that are inspired by my life as a child in Mexico City, in its streets and buildings and of my family preparing food in the kitchen.

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Everywhere is a feel at home sensation and that is what we want to achieve every day in Quintonil. 8

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JORGE VALLEJO

How has your grandmother instilled in you the love of cooking for loved ones and in what way has she inspired you to become a chef? My inspiration in gastronomy is almost entirely based on nostalgia. I want to reproduce what filled me with bliss and joy. That’s why I evoke my grandmother, because with food, recipes and techniques, a Mexican learns the joy of life. The first pleasures come from the kitchen, from the smells, from the pots that have cooked thousands of soups, but also to learn the act of love through your stews. The act of throwing a quelite into the broth, at the exact moment of cooking, because she knows that it will give direction to the whole stew and that the ingredients will become affection. I live to try to reproduce those feelings in the people who eat my food.

In what way does Quintonil reflect Mexico? In addition to putting Mexican dishes on the table, or some Mexican-inspired dishes, I enjoy and recreate cooking. That is an important feature of what happens in Mexico and in my case more in Mexico City, where there are many street stalls and it is common for the person who prepares your food, whether male or female, sometimes jokes with you. Around the world, restaurants are emerging where bars or lounges are close to the kitchen so that the proximity between the kitchen and the living room is minimal and create a friendly atmosphere between the staff and the diner. In Mexico that is the most common. Next to the tradition of gastronomy there is fascinating hospitality. Everywhere is a feel at home sensation and that is what we want to achieve every day in Quintonil.

You recently noted that “Huauzontles” with Chiapas’ Cuadro cheese, amaranth and tomato ragout reflects Quintonil. Why? That dish was born with Quintonil. It is a dish from my childhood, it is simple, charming and made of quelites, some edible wild herbs that are subtle, simple and available anywhere. A quintonil is a quelite (a green Mexican herb). However, they are delicious and the restaurants fight to have the best huauzontles (edible plant native to Mexico). I have sometimes thought of removing it from the menu, but people have been asking for them these last 7 years. Sometimes, not everything has to be subject to change. In addition, the Huauzontles laid the groundwork for what we wanted to do with Quintonil, a restaurant that prepared dishes sometimes despised for their simplicity and linked to lower class foods. Together with beans or cactus, quelite is an ingredient that was never ignored in Mexico. Fortunately, that is changing completely and some Mexicans are learning to eat well again.

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JORGE VALLEJO

You recently noted “It’s important to look after our ancestral techniques and to preserve cooking methods that have been used in Mexico for such a long time.” Can you elaborate? A concrete example of an ancestral technique is nixtamalization. This technique - that is to cook corn with lime so that it is digestible and dough is made for various preparations - is what has kept the civilization of the Mesoamerican region and other countries.

How has Mexican gastronomy evolved over the past decade? I think it has evolved very little. At least in the common terms of evolution, such as progress or improvement. What has happened is that in recent years it has reached a great global boom, even among Mexicans who travel through different states to try this or that emblematic dish of that particular region. So young people are being encouraged to recreate and interpret the recipes of our ancestors and to print their own creativity. The result are spectacular dishes throughout Mexico. Foreigners travel to Mexico to eat ants, their eggs, grasshoppers, maguey worms or a mole made with 35 ingredients. When a foreigner gets used to eating a taco, he will be unlikely to move away from Mexico throughout his life.

What makes diversity Mexican cuisine’s major strength? We have access to the Pacific and Atlantic Ocean; We have two gulfs, one of them the largest in the world and the other called by Cousteau “The aquarium of the world”, in addition to the Caribbean Sea, which is a paradise. We have an enviable animal and plant diversity. There are fruits from a certain region that I have not tried and about 70 varieties of corn. We have the horn of abundance from which an unheard and delicious recipe book has emerged over the millennia. Diversity is strength, it is power and opening. Unfortunately, in Mexico the impact to the environment is enormous and we are running out of those things that make us prosperous.

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The molcajete is a utensil made of volcanic stone that crushes food used when it needs to be crushed with a stone. Something strange but normal for our ancestors, right? Well, trying a sauce made with molcajete unlike one made with a food processor gives it a dimension in terms of taste, consistency, texture and even conserving its nutrients, which no other technique can achieve.

You also pointed out; “I’m really fortunate to be able to have a life where both my work and family life go hand in hand.” How do you find a compromise between the two worlds? Fortunately, it is not a life that I had to get used to at all. My wife Alejandra Flores and I met working in a restaurant. Afterwards we opened Quintonil together, she is the general director and I am the chef. Then we had our daughter and the restaurant is her second home. She is always running around here. She is used to the hustle, the cooks and the food. I’m lucky it’s a family relationship so close to the kitchen, because chef’s life takes a lot of time and sometimes that separates you a lot from your family.

What’s next for you? I like to advise external projects, develop menus and help operate small businesses. That’s what I do besides Quintonil, which is where I dedicate most of my time. I still don’t feel the need for a more important expansion, I feel it would distract me from what I want, which is to be in the kitchen. There is still much to do and achieve in Quintonil, I still see it very young and I want to stay there. Besides that, I am in no hurry.

My inspiration in gastronomy is almost entirely based on nostalgic. I want to reproduce what filled me with bliss and joy.

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Credit: Andoni Epelde

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THE

CRITICAL ROLE of Research Interview with

JOSEAN Martinez Alija, Restaurante Guggenheim - Bilbao, Spain

genius, a culinary master and an innovator are a few words which food critics have deemed appropriate to describe Chef Josean Martinez Alija. His culinary journey developed at a very young age and his undisputed talent quickly earned him a list of achievements under his belt—working in the kitchens of the Guggenheim Museum Bilbao, El Bulli, and receiving a number of prestigious awards that include Identità Golose‘ Best International Chef in

2009 and the International Academy of Gastronomy‘s Chef of the Future in 2011. His award-winning creations include Roasted Duck Foie Gras with Candied Carrots (“Most Artistic Dish” 2002), Casein Whipped with Strawberry-Violet Ice Cream (“Most Beautiful Dish” 2003), and Cold Juice of Bitter Cocoa with Milk-Anise Ice Cream (“Best Dessert” 2004). All this, in the midst of a motorcycle accident in 2000 that left him in a coma for 21 days, and with his senses suspended upon awakening.

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JOSEAN MARTINEZ ALIJA Now, as chef of Nerua, Alija has refined his craft and pushed the boundaries of modern Spanish cuisine, which balances innovation with centuries of tradition. Alija’s cuisine reflects this juxtaposition. Alija’s major skill lies in his ability to put ordinary ingredients on a pedestal and conjures from them minimalist masterpieces. Indeed the Bilbao-born chef follows a philosophy that places importance on essence—the “soul” of an ingredient in its purest form— which is uncovered through research, an in-depth

analysis that looks at its origins, uses, and properties to discover its potentials and its best qualities. When asked to describe his philosophy, Chef Alija often notes that “to cook is to transform, change, provoke, and conjugate flavours, textures, dreams and appearances. To cook is to give life to ideas and share unique experiences by taking on new challenges. A dish approaches wisdom when it provokes emotions and promotes good health.” It is with no coincidence that he is considered as one of the best ambassadors of modern Spanish cuisine. Chef Alija shares with Delicious his early steps in the culinary world, his food philosophy and his upcoming projects.

I did not want to give up what made me happy, to be a cook, to enjoy the complexity of smells, richness of the flavours, it was like being born again and I feel lucky for that. Credit: José Luis López de Zubiria

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Credit: José Luis López de Zubiria

In what way were you seduced by food from a very young age? It is a cultural and above all familiar reason. The importance of what happens at the table, of eating well, but above all that your family instil in you to enjoy food and the opportunity to try different things freely. The cuisine is something wonderful that joins us. And behind every bite there are many complex, fun and exciting stories. I have been very lucky because as a child I was able to live all this. It is simply about being happy with what we eat or eating to be happy.

Although losing your sense of taste and smell following a motorbike accident, you refused to let fate determine your future. How did you deal with such a challenge? An accident is something unpredictable and sad, and above all when the consequences can affect your future, your passion. Living without smell and without taste is to live assuming many risks and deprived of many freedoms. This makes you undoubtedly aware of how wonderful it is to have no health restrictions. Realizing that I could not taste and smell was very hard and painful, but I faced it like I do every day: wanting to fight to keep going. I did not want to give up what made me happy, to be a cook, to enjoy the complexity of smells, richness of the flavours, it was like being born again and I feel lucky for that.

Credit: Erika Ede

Why is research so important? Research is so important to learn, motivate you, to evolve, and without researching there would be no Nerua or the kitchen we do. Research is the backbone of everything. It is a tool to generate knowledge, learn, have fun and make our guests happy.

‘Muina’ is the name of your book published in 2013 yet it is also the term you have often noted that best describes your way of seeing things. Can you elaborate? Muina is a Basque word that has no literal translation in English, but is the term that best identifies my way of seeing things, among them gastronomy. Core, heart, essence…. It refers to the soul, the substance, but also the brain and knowledge. Muina is the way in which I understand a complete gastronomic experience, the unique result of focusing attention on the purity of things.

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JOSEAN MARTINEZ ALIJA

Credit: Andoni Epelde

The importance of what happens at the table, of eating well, but above all that your family instil in you to enjoy food and the opportunity to try different things freely.

You recently noted; â&#x20AC;&#x153;sharing experiences is the key.â&#x20AC;? Why? For me it is the way to evolve, to create team, so that our clients enjoy new proposals every season. What is the use of generating knowledge if it is not shared? Sharing is something generous that we should all put into practice, because it helps you to be better and see things in a different way. Who gives, receives.

Why do you consider a spoon as the element that allows you to fully notice every note when tasting a dish? More than 70% of my dishes are eaten with a spoon. It is perhaps because the union element is a broth, a cream. It is a way to caress the product, to integrate it, to include all the elements you need to perceive the story you want to tell. My kitchen is normally built with one, two or three elements and each elaboration hides a great work. For me, the spoon means flavour, memory and union.

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Credit: José Luis López de Zubiria

What are the key characteristics of Basque cuisine and why is it so highly revered? Basque cuisine is a local cuisine in a global world. Its prestige is given because there are many chefs who work to put in value our products, our environment, and we knew how to open the roads to reach the world, demonstrating that it is a kitchen that is worth trying. Basque Country is a territory where you can consume different types of very special gastronomy. It is a way of being and living.

I recently read you also study cancer prevention nutrition. What motivated you to enter this area of research? Everything means to learn and everything that my work helps to make people live better is interesting.

What should we expect from Josean Alija in the coming months? In October we will start the autumn-winter menu. Each year we change the menu three times: spring, summer and autumn-winter. We start to work for each menu one year before and the customer can taste it because we work with seasonal products. Now we are working on the menu of 2020’s summer.

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Beauty IS IN THE

DETAIL

Interview with

RYAN Galea, Chef de Cuisine - Taro at The Villa

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he moment you come across Chef Ryan Galea, you are quickly captivated by his pair of dark inquisitive eyes which convey his hunger for knowledge and

success. His work is impressive and a quick look at the Facebook page of Taro at The Villa will tell you why he is considered by many local food critics and enthusiasts as one of the best chefs in circulation at the moment.

It is often said that first impressions are misleading. Indeed, once you look beyond that calm and relaxed outer crust you will discover a strong, focused and very determined person with such a colourful mind packed with concepts that blow your mind. His philosophy is so avant garde and his work is a statement. He is ambitious, inquisitive and constantly plays on that fine line which distinguishes the norm from what we often consider as ‘out of the norm’. Ryan’s concepts reflect his particular character - bold, different, colourful and packed with ideas that seek to constantly think out of the box or without the box. Indeed, his dishes include unconventional marriages which bring together wagyu beef and smoked eel parfait, red prawn, pomegranate, grapefruit and rose hip and wood pigeon, rhubarb and fermented barley roasted sous vide in chicken fat. His philosophy focuses on new ways of dismantling traditional precepts of food, combining the East and West and bringing experiential

dining to the table. Above all, Chef Ryan Galea is a detail maniac which is visible in the jaw dropping dishes he amazes clients with. His passion for food has its roots in his parents’ kitchen. “Food rekindles so many fond memories of Sunday cooking at home. It was a ritual for me to follow attentively the preparation of home specialities which included roast beef, patata l-forn or ross il-forn. It was in my kitchen where I fell in love with food.” Ryan adds; “For me cooking is an expression of art and through food, I am able to express my personality. I devoted myself to learning and grasping all I could from other chefs to broaden my knowledge and acquire new skills, challenging myself to be a better cook than I was yesterday. Cooking is a never-ending process and every day you learn more and realize how much you do not know which makes it much more exciting.”

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Ryan notes that his food philosophy focuses on local produce. “My style is product source based. I have high respect towards classic cuisine. I like to work on classical tastes and revisit them with a modern approach. I also seek to create a perfect harmony. I adore South East Asian cuisine which I try to include in one way or another in my dishes” Our conversation shifts on to Taro at The Villa. The place perfectly reflects Ryan’s style, character and perspective of food. The place is vibrant, eclectic and a melting pot of ideas which come together to create exceptional dishes. Every dish is a celebration of food which has no boundaries in terms of ingredients, tastes and styles. Taro’s menu is impressive both in terms of dishes as well as for the type of ingredients used. Apple blossoms, nasturtium and beluga lentils are just a few of the interesting ingredients you will come across whilst choosing your evening dish. Every ingredient perfectly coexists with local fresh produce including rabbit, pig, pigeon and local vegetables. Ryan points out that Taro brings together the concept of modern and classic which marries with the style of food they offer. I ask him to explain the outlet’s gastro concept. He points out that “we bring together allurements of classic combined with a foreign element.” Indeed, for those who had the opportunity to taste a dish or two at Taro will certainly agree that the food is exceptional and gives justice to the reputation the place has earned as “a true gem and certainly one of the best eateries on the island.” Guests are truly spoilt for choice on the vast selection of food available which include; Sea Urchin Risotto, Berlingot Pasta and Glazed Veal as starters and Tandoori Spiced Monk Fish, Wood Pigeon and Heritage Gallette for main course. Desserts have always been a classic at The Villa with an impressive selection to choose from which includes; Pistachio di Bronte Dome, Lemon Meringue and Sphere Trilogy. Our conversation on food inevitably touches on the autumn season. Ryan notes that “as the colder months approach, food will be richer on the palate featuring slow cooked beef and wild game among others.” One can dine indoors in a fabulous recently refurbished tranquil and cosy setting. I ask Ryan if there is any particular dish to look out during the autumn season at Taro to which he notes; “the autumn menu will certainly include something with lobster, squash and wild mushrooms.” It is time for me to conclude my interview yet before calling it a day, I felt the need to ask for a word of advice to someone wanting to become a chef. “Never lose sight of your goals in life and be ready to work hard and make sacrifices. Ask yourself why am I doing it this way and put in the extra effort. Be proud of what you do and that the taste is all that matters.” It is such a pleasure to see local talent play with so many innovative concepts. Malta has a lot to offer and Ryan is a clear proof of Malta’s culinary excellence.

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RYAN GALEA

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Credits: Per-Anders Jorgensen

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Common Sense W

e meet with CHEF JAMES LOWE, the brain behind one of Londonâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s favourite restaurants. We meet with him to discuss Lyle, his love for beetroot, and sustainability in the food industry.

By Matthew Charles Zammit

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JAMES LOWE

Why did I go with “Modern British”? Because it makes sense, as my food wasn’t like any other British food that was traditionally being served anywhere else. I’m a Londoner: The UK capital is an incredibly diverse city, with influences stemming all over the world. I like to think that British people have always borrowed from overseas. The history of this country as an Empire and a Coloniser, for better or for worse, has helped us adopt different things into our food.

In a recent interview, you noted “there are so many products that I miss whenever I leave the UK.” Can you elaborate? Certainly. One of the main sources of food we as a country possess is game, especially wild birds. It’s a quite special dish, and in all honesty, when I am away for some time, I miss it. Aside from game though, we have many vegetables and different products that come during the year that you won’t find in other restaurants, due to different conditions.

You did not start cooking until you was 23. What encouraged you to shift from a potential career as a pilot with British Airways to the food industry? I always loved restaurants. Ever since I was a kid, I always loved the idea of owning and managing my own restaurant. My parents weren’t necessarily into fancy food, and by no stretch of the imagination were they restauranteurs. What transpired was more akin to me trying out something entirely on my own, and liking it so much that it became a passion. Even to this day, I found these places hugely inspiring. And following this dream of mine, I felt that I should pursue it, and what better way to pursue this target of mine if not to be a chef?

Food critics have often noted that you are the best example of Modern British food. How would you describe Modern British food? Before I opened my very first restaurant, one of the first questions that I faced was, “How would you classify your restaurant?” I didn’t like the question at all, because I felt extremely restrictive. For me, opening a restaurant doesn’t entail you to be limited in the ingredients you buy, and the food you serve. Having said that, I recognise the fact that people kind of need to have some indicator as to what they’re eating.

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Once, an Australian chef friend of mine argued on how their version of summer is more different than the one in the UK and vice versa. The way we move through the seasons here in the UK is also different. Personally, I don’t yearn for summer anymore. Anything that becomes too much, or happens too frequently, becomes boring. I need a different taste in my life. And you get a lot of that when seasons change.

What makes Lyle’s restaurant stand out of the crowd? I’m not entirely sure if I’m honest. If I had to pick, it would be our common sense of operating a restaurant. It’s really rare that a restaurant’s goals at the end of the day, is really good food, with a nice and friendly environment, and a good team teaching about what we do, and do it in a professional way. Other restaurants are so dead set on gimmicks, making food more expensive to recuperate some costs, or to add element of theatre in their food, that they forget the basics of what makes a restaurant... a restaurant. It’s not what I want: We cook food that people want to eat, and we do it with ingredients that not everyone uses, for food that everyone can eat.. One of the things I try to do when trying out new recipes is actively justifying my thinking: I remember that in Architecture, every time someone designs a door, or a ceiling, they have to justify the change and/or ad-

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JAMES LOWE

dition. Some people think it’s boring, because it’s not spontaneous, but I actually like the thought behind the food. And customers like the fact that we have a thought process behind what comes in the plate. We don’t have a desire to charge any more money. Rather, we established a fixed parameter, and within that parameter, we work to get better and better, but we won’t do it just by making it more expensive. We are being creative within the framework I set.

This is something that Lyle has incorporated in other dishes as well. One of the things we did as a restaurant is look at, and incorporate, how other countries cooked eel. From the Italians to the Japanese. By borrowing the influence of other cultures and incorporating other traditional ways of cooking the dish, all the while adding basic ingredients, leads to a new way of thinking. The end result is a dish which makes people go, “Whoa, that’s a very Lyle’s dish.”

You have often noted that your city on a plate is smoked eel. Why?

Tell us about your famous beetroot.

It’s one of the main dishes that we do. Eel speaks of tradition, modernity, and the way we take influence from different settings. Eel has long been a tradition in the UK, in fact it’s a historical fact the Romans were eating it from the River Thames. There’s real history there. It, together with pie and mash, were the dishes of the working class. Nowadays, it’s something treated as not being a really respected product, thanks to the efforts during the last decades, they’re increasing but I’d agree that some of the old cuisine for eel was too basic and standard. What I did was looking at other cultures, and at how they cook eel, all the while incorporating some of their cuisines and different methods. They’re not dishes found in other restaurants, because they’re not the traditional English way.

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They’re amazing. We do it in lots of different ways. We use it as garnish, as dessert, and sometimes even in our main dishes. The misconception is that we make the beetroot taste like something else, but that’s not the case: we just do it in a way which makes its taste all the more prominent. We stay true to what things are: we don’t manipulate food much, rather we coalesce it for more taste.

You recently noted; “I’m not sure I feel qualified to talk about sustainability in the restaurant industry.” Why? Sustainability has become one of these subjects that people don’t really understand. To have a sustainable restaurant in London, for example, kind of feels impossible. Just the way in which utilities work here is unsustainable in the first place. It’s a common fact that cities in general do more damage to the environment than the rural environment.

If you really think you’re a sustainable restaurant, you most probably missed something. Yes, we do whatever we can to not be wasteful, like helping our suppliers as much as possible, but at the end of the day we have to make the business sustainable because we need to keep cooking, and keep people employed. We pay a lot of money to our suppliers, so they benefit as well. Buying produce from all over the country is also another factor that needs addressing: So many links in the chain. Reducing these links in the chain is not self-serving. Involving yourself in the community, in a city such as London, is perhaps a pipe dream. Managing your head out of the sand entails you remove your hand from the sand. That model is not sustainable or realistic, you need restaurants in the city, and they can’t grow produce in their own backyard.

How does autumn fit into Lyle’s menu? Autumn is one of the most exciting periods, because of the crossover from summer to winter. From wild and complex flavour, to more heart-warming dishes, the transition provides an opportunity in itself. But a specific reason why I love autumn is in the produce itself. For example, this season gets the best tomatoes of the entire year, when they’re grown with the sun and the light. You’ve got the best of both seasons now, the opportunity to mix these things. Contrary to popular belief, there’s less overlap in spring then in autumn: You got the best fruit and vegetables in September, and they’re at the same time as the first cabbages and other wild game from the final part of the year. It’s the season which pushes you to really go for everything, with the last run of vegetables and tomatoes for the year, which helps stimulate us in being creative.

What’s next for Chef James Lowe and Lyle’s Resturant? Well we’re currently opening the floor towards a new section of the restaurant, and we’re going to try baking. We’ve already got brilliant people, with various culinary backgrounds working in the restaurant and we want to see where we can reach with them. We don’t, however intend to open a restaurant chain anytime soon, because that’s not what I want. What I want remains the only thing that matters to us: the ability to cook the best food around.

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FOCUS

on Sustainability

Interview with

MANOELLA Buffara, Chef Patron at Manu

razilian gastronomy boasts another feather in its hat with the incredible talent of Manoella Buffara. Born in Maringá, west of Paraná, and raised in her father’s farm, the 34-year-old mother of two girls, holds degrees in journalism and hotel business

and has travelled the world to work as an apprentice in some of the most popular restaurants. Chef Buffara has been to Chicago, Alaska, Italy and Denmark, where she had the opportunity to work with legendary chef René Redzepi, the head chef of Noma, listed five times as the best in the world. In Copenhagen she learned techniques and reinforced the work philosophy she would embrace: value the local production and the small producer and also respect the seasons and flavours of nature – concepts linked with the central idea of circular economy. Indeed, her mission, she says, is “to educate people through what we eat” and “to defend highquality food, diversity and local producers”. It is with no coincidence that her restaurant Manu has attracted the attention of food enthusiasts from all over the world and has won several accolades including the One to Watch Award for Latin America’s 50 best restaurants 2018, promoted by The UK publication Restaurant Magazine. Manu talks with Delicious about her work with farmers, her way to educate using food and her vision about how it is possible to produce integration with nature.

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Credit: Rubens Kato

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MANOELLA BUFFARA

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Credit: Rubens Kato

Tell us about your first contact with gastronomy, and your gastronomy education until opening Manu. My connection with food started at a very young age since I was raised on my fatherâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s farm. Moreover, my parents are from Beirut where food is an integral part of culture. From a very young age, I fondly watched my grandmother cook. It was there, in that kitchen where my interest in the world of food developed. With her, I learned how important our hands are, to discover temperatures, cooking points, time to make bread, and the love we should have for food. Later on in my life, I took part in a student exchange program in a ski resort in Seattle and I needed to work. I was supposed to clean snow, but since there was no snow that year, I had to find something else and took an opportunity in a hotel, where I started serving tables and ended up working in the kitchen, which I loved. When I got back to Brazil, even though I was young, I already knew I wanted to turn that into a career. I took the Hotel Business course along with the Journalism course and searched for opportunities outside Brazil. I managed to go to Italy, then Denmark and did internships in several restaurants worldwide. When I returned, 12 years ago, I started giving classes and, as soon as I had the chance, I started the Manu Project and made it what it is today.

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MANOELLA BUFFARA

Credit: Rubens Kato

How do you value local ingredients and small producers through your work?

I recently read you adhere to the principle of circular economy. I come from a family where my father is a farmer and was always aware on how to use products and how to change economy. I was raised in the countryside around goats, cows, vegetable gardens and cornfields during which time I learnt early on to value land and animals, and what they can offer if treated with affection and care. My time there taught me on the importance to see gastronomy as a circle which should value the food we serve, the producers and a sustainable chain similar to the one found in a circular economy. Patience is one key principle which needs to be followed. One must know how to wait and let things sometimes develop on their own, without trying to selfishly control them. Each ingredient has its cooking time and its individuality. Cooking is respecting the time of things. We need to be responsible for our waste, teach our children to have better eating habits. We need to know where our food comes from and who produces it. This needs to be valued. We need to understand that it takes time for a product to grow, that there’s human labour involved, that it waited for the rain and the drought to be ready for them to be consumed. Becoming aware of all this helps us think before wasting. Gastronomy has to be regarded as a circle and we need to make ends meet.

My father is a farmer and my grandfather was a fisherman in Paranaguá; in other words, I’ve always had close contact with people who deal with farming. My father, for example, always made a point of being near the gardens, and I loved it too. In Manu, I decided to do something I believed in, dedicated to a greater good and thinking towards the future. I am today guided by the motto “Be proud of your roots, be proud of your land, be proud of your family and your culture. We need to understand that we don’t cook just to fill stomachs. There’s a whole sequence of events which involves more than buying food, but also educating the producer and developing with them more intelligent ways to produce. My concept has always been: products with less transportation, less pollution and generating income to the local community, a more organic result.

How do you see the close relationship with suppliers in gastronomy today? How important is this relationship? It’s fundamental that you need to have them close to you and understand how important it is for your business. I created a partnership with them that transcends the supplier relationship. They know better about the ingredients, so they can guide me on their particularities, the best techniques to use them. Much more than local products, they also teach me methods of preparation and even recipes. It’s a relationship that lasts for many years. Today any chef needs to have a closer relationship with his farmers and suppliers.

You recently noted; “the best ingredients from Latin America are yet to be discovered.” Can you elaborate? Brazil is still to be discovered. We only know the tipof the iceberg of what our country can offer. In order for us to discover the beauty of Brazil, we need to learn from the Amazon, the sea, from the indigenous people and the Atlantic forest.

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Credit: Rubens Kato

Each ingredient has its cooking time and its individuality. Cooking is respecting the time of things. 34

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MANOELLA BUFFARA

You use the phrase “educate people through what they eat” as a mission. What does it mean? I believe that stress and bad eating habits are the cause of many illnesses. We need to stop to eat, live the moment we eat, be happy at the table, not talk about negative things, and be concerned with what we put in our mouths. Education in the kitchen is a way to introduce new flavours, new products and ways to cook for Brazilian families. In our work with the community gardens in Curitiba, I also give lectures that more than 200 families attend.

You are known for your work in your own city which seeks to address pollination, better nutrition, and the environment. Tell us more about such work. I work with community gardens and use in our menu the products we serve everyday in the restaurant. I plant the ingredients, have my own seeds and coordinate my producers to plant for me. The local work we do is to transform through food, bringing people closer to what they eat. So that they can plant, cultivate and have more knowledge about what we eat. We have an urban garden project in the city, which allows us to grow organic vegetables that we use in the Manu kitchen, but they are also available to the population – as is the case of the distribution we make in children’s schools. We also have a project with native bees, in which we have spread 4,000 beehives throughout the city to improve the pollination. As a result, we still have great quality honey to use in our recipes. It is a win-win. I consider my surrounding and also for other cooks that live in my city, I think it is important to create a movement around food that is as more collective as possible because that is what gives us more strength. The benefit is not only mine but also other cooks, farmers, the city. This is how you transform.

Tell us about your famous tasting menus. The basic elements of my recipes, used in food tastings in a 20-cover-menu serving, come from a chain of 35 local producers, who apply responsible initiatives in plantations in their urban communities or from small farms in the countryside or the coast of the state. The menus changes every month and you can have wine pairing, if you wish. From the starters (or “snacks”) to the main tasting dishes, subtle fusions and splendid presentations lead you to a whole new universe of tastes and flavours. The tasting menus showcase ingredients from a network of artisan producers that we have cultivated through regular visits, plus produce grown on our own small-holding. The line-up changes regularly but diners can expect dishes such as a modern take on the Brazilian classic bobó de camarão (cassava paste flavoured with dried shrimp, coconut milk and cashews) or pumpkin soup pepped up with coffee and lemon powder.

What does autumn mean to you from a food perspective? Our menu changes regularly thus influenced by the produce available during the seasons. Every season, including autumn offer ingredients which offer us the opportunity to create interesting dishes to our clients.

What’s next for you? My new restaurant, Ella, is on track to open in late November in Chelsea, New York. I will not reproduce Manu, but we plan to maintain my Brazilian flair, showcasing vegetables and fruits alongside seafood in colourful presentations. The focus will be on ingredients that are local to New York. The new restaurant will also serve to show that there’s more to Brazilian food than feijoada and churrasco.”

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LIVIO FELLUGA A great story of love and passion to his land, the Friuli

onsidered the Patriarch of Friuli vine growing, in 1956 Livio Felluga founded the winery of Brazzano and consecrated the love for the hill by buying, with happy intuition, the first vineyards in Rosazzo. Livio Felluga’s drive is recognized by an absolute and stubborn devotion to the land. He knows his land inside out, he lives and breathes it precisely because over the years, with patience and determination, he was able to interpret it to get the best out of it. In an era in which there are no denominations, Livio Felluga chose a geographical map as the iconic label to be recognised, first in the rest of Italy and then around world, the origin of their wines. This is how the iconic Livio Felluga geographical map label was born. The vineyards in the Colli del Friuli, are the proud testimony: since 2011 Rosazzo

is DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita). The production of the company is characterized by the constant and rigorous research of quality: a choice made long ago by Livio Felluga and carried on by his sons who now run the company with the same dedication and devotion as their father. High quality is immediately recognized in the company’s products: from the elegant varietal wines to refined grapes such as Terre Alte, considered one of the most prestigious white wines of Italy, the Sossó, the result of a careful selection of the grapes Merlot and Refosco dal Peduncolo Rosso - with a small contribution from Pignolo; and the Abbazia di Rosazzo, an elegant blend produced in historic vineyards of the eponymous Abbey. Livio Felluga Wines are exclusively imported and distributed by Abraham’s.

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THEORIST of Diversification People have an increasing desire to enjoy different experiences and have fun. They don’t want just food.

ortuguese chef and restaurateur JOSÉ DE AVILLEZ BURNAY EREIRA or as he is more commonly known, José Avillez is considered

to be one of the best talents Portugal has ever produced in the food industry. As a completely self-taught chef, he defines himself as someone who is as passionate about cuisine as he is about his country, and who embraces innovation without ever forgetting his roots and the tradition, quality, authenticity and worth of work they come with. Avillez’s work is considered by food critics as pure art and reflects his sensitivity towards the world of art and history. The result of so much dedication towards food is one impressive career that includes multiple restaurants, multiple Michelin Stars, and a long lineup of different projects including TV-shows, books and signature wines. Chef Avillez is not only achieving what he set out to accomplish, he is doing it with an immense curiosity and constant drive to keep learning. Chef Avillez took us through his impressive self taught career, his philosophy and his plans for the future.

Credit: Luis Mileu

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JOSÉ DE AVILLEZ BURNAY EREIRA

I recently read that your first cooking hero was Laura, your parents’ cook. In what way has she developed a passion for food in you? Laura prepared amazing traditional Portuguese cuisine recipes which I would regularly watch her prepare. Those memories are still ingrained in my mind and continues to serve as an important guideline in my work. That time spent close to Laura developed in me a love for food and an interest to pursue a career in the culinary industry. I was particularly interested in Portuguese cuisine. I consider it as one of the best in the world. It is tremendously rich and varied. Today, some flavours continue to evoke childhood memories.

Yet instead of completing a cooking course, you first studied communication sciences. How come? I registered to study Business Communication yet never felt that sense of fulfilment. I really missed the culinary world. It was only in my senior year that I decided to become a chef. I had individual study sessions with Maria de Lourdes Modesto, the most important Portuguese author on Traditional Portuguese Cuisine and those sessions, along with my first internship in a kitchen (at Fortaleza do Guincho), changed my life. It was at that point that I felt I had really found my path. After that, I went on several trips, trained and interned as a chef, and learned under the vigil eyes of Antoine Westermann at Fortaleza do Guincho, at Alain Ducasse’s school, in Eric Frechon’s kitchen at the Bristol Hotel, and at the renowned El Bulli, a step which really changed my career and my life.

What does food mean to you? Food is a passion which developed during my childhood. I love everything about it especially that sense of creativity it triggers in me. Indeed, it is in a kitchen where I truly feel that sense of pleasure and excitement in my life. Food also offers that sense of emotional commitment. It offers you the opportunity to give. I feel so fortunate to have the opportunity to do what I really love.

In what way does traditional Portuguese cuisine serve as a source of inspiration for you? Portuguese cuisine is tremendously rich and varied. It’s part of what we define as the “Mediterranean diet”. Nevertheless the Mediterranean roots of Portuguese cuisine is complemented by Asian and African influences. In addition to that, Portugal has a wide variety of landforms, climatic conditions and soils. Portugal is not a homogeneous country, we have a very long coastline, the northern part of Portugal is mountainous, the Central coastal region has dunes and pine forests and southern Portugal is an area of plains. Every region has different products and its very own cuisine. That’s why Portuguese cuisine is so varied.

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What’s happening with Portuguese cuisine at the moment? The restaurant scene is very dynamic right now in Lisbon. There are new openings every week. Portuguese chefs have been updating classic dishes and that’s making Portuguese cuisine gain visibility. Traditional Portuguese gastronomy (ingredients and techniques) is being reinvented with modern ingredients and techniques through this innovative spirit. New quality restaurants and food stores are emerging and focusing on high quality Portuguese products. The culinary scenario is getting very interesting. I’m excited to be part of this movement.

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JOSÉ DE AVILLEZ BURNAY EREIRA

How can a dish take us on a journey to places, landscapes, times and stories? A dish reflects a complex creative process, because it’s the result of different influences: the past, the present, my personal inclinations, discoveries, people, images, textures, histories and travels. When I create a dish, I combine my inner and outer world. Each dish tells a story and takes those willing to try it on a unique gastronomic and sensory journey.

You have often insisted that healthy food is not a trend but rather here to stay. Can you elaborate? I think it’s important to eat healthy and in a balanced way, but I’m not a fundamentalist and my restaurant menus have all kinds of different dishes. It’s true that people are becoming more and more aware of the importance of quality ingredients. At the same time, I believe that in the future, simpler and easy-to-make recipes will become the rule because of the momentum. People have and will have even less time to cook long and complex recipes, there will clearly be a reduction in the quantity of sugar used in preparing desserts and sweets, the demand for less-cooked foods will increase. The technique has already evolved a great deal in terms of cooking points and will continue to evolve. Aromatic herbs will be used increasingly more because they add flavour and are a great way to reduce (and, in some cases, even replace) salt.

Any word of advice to prospective chefs? Study as much as you can. Studying, even in other fields of knowledge, broadens our horizons and teaches us to be disciplined. Studying is always important. And then, if cuisine is truly what they’re passionate about, they’ll have to work hard and never quit. In the world of cuisine, you have to be disciplined, committed and humble. You have to be willing to make a lot of sacrifices, because it’s not easy to start working in a kitchen, but the work does pay off.

What’s next for Chef Avillez? I’m a dreamer. I’m always thinking about new ideas. In relation to other projects, we’ll see what the future holds.

Tell us about the famous article by Frank Bruni of the New York Times. In what way was has such review saved Belcanto? During its first three months, Belcanto was always full, but with old customers that had peculiar expectations about the restaurant. They were very rough months, because we were trying to pair a menu —in line with the work we had developed in Tavares— with some restaurant classics so there wasn’t that arrogant attitude of burning that bridge with the past completely. At the end of March that year, the restaurant really began to suffer. The return on our investment was still lacking and I started to get scared. In April though, Frank Bruni, one of The New York Times’ best critics, came to Belcanto. During the meal he tweeted that he was looking at the future of Portuguese cuisine in an upside-down Martini glass (an olive juice with a Martini sphere that we had on the menu as an amuse bouche). After that he wrote an article for the New York Times. Then, overnight, the phone wouldn’t stop ringing. We had as many as 40 people here that night, because of that article. To this day we have customers we gained at that time.

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www.mazagafruit.com

Fruit & Vegetable Market, Imports Fruit Section No. 13, Ta Qali, Attard. Tel: +356 2143 4668 - Fax: +356 2141 8025 44

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love Gozo love food enjoy Country Terrace

Country Terrace Lounge Bar & Restaurant Zewwieqa Street, Mgarr - Gozo T:+356 2155 0248 M:+356 9944 6833 E: info@country-terrace.com

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LAMB RIB RACK Prep time: Cook time: Marinating time: Yield:

10 minutes 25 minutes 2 hours 1 rack serves 1 person

The cooking time depends on how big your rack of lamb is, and how rare you want it cooked. Rack of lamb should be cooked rare, or at most medium rare.

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COUNTRY TERRACE

METHOD Make sure to allow enough time for your rack of lamb to come close to room temperature before cooking. Otherwise the inside will still be raw while the outside is cooked.

■ Marinate lamb in rub: Rub rib rack(s) all over with mixture of rosemary, thyme, and garlic. Sprinkle with freshly ground black pepper. Place in a thick plastic bag with olive oil. Spread oil around so that it coats the lamb rack(s) all over. Squeeze out as much air as you can from the bag and seal. Place in a container so that if the bag leaks, the container catches the leak. If you want, place in the refrigerator overnight. Or, if you are not marinating overnight, let lamb rack(s) sit in the rub marinade as it comes to room temperature before cooking. ■ Bring lamb to room temp: Remove lamb rack from refrigerator to 1 1/2 to 2 hours before you cook it so that it comes to room temp. (If the meat is not at room temperature it will be hard for it to cook evenly). ■ Preheat oven to 450°F, arrange the oven rack so that the lamb will be in the middle of the oven.

INGREDIENTS 1 or more Frenched* lamb rib racks with 7 to 8 ribs each For each rib rack: 2tsps chopped fresh rosemary 1tsp chopped fresh thyme 2 cloves garlic, minced Salt Pepper 2tbsps extra virgin olive oil * Typically you will buy a rack of lamb already “Frenched”, or cut so that the rib bones are exposed. You can also ask your butcher to french them for you. Special equipment: Meat thermometer

■ Score the fat, sprinkle with salt and pepper, wrap bones in foil, place in pan fat side up: Score the fat, by making sharp shallow cuts through the fat, spaced about an inch apart. Sprinkle the rack all over with salt and pepper. Place the lamb rack bone side down (fat side up) on a roasting pan lined with foil. Wrap the exposed ribs in a little foil so that they don’t burn. ■ Roast first at high heat to brown, then reduce heat to finish: Place the roast in the oven roast at 450°F for 10 minutes (longer if roasting more than one rack), or until the surface of the roast is nicely browned. Then lower the heat to 300°F. Cook for 10 to 20 minutes longer (depending on the size of the lamb rack, if you are roasting more than one rack, and how rare or well done you want your lamb), until a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the meat 125°F on a for rare or 135°F for medium rare. Remove from oven, cover with foil and let rest for 15 minutes. Cut lamb chops away from the rack by slicing between the bones.

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CHRONIC COUGH - updates A cough lasting for more than 8 weeks is termed a chronic cough. Some people can experience a chronic cough for years, and the treatment they are taking may not be effective. For these people expert medical care may be needed. The most common causes of a chronic cough include: • Post-nasal drip (mucus draining from the back of the nose into the throat) • Dry throat – which could be due to work environment (Air-conditioning), not drinking enough fluids • Hayfever – nasal blockage leading to breathing from the mouth • Asthma- though the typical symptoms of asthma might be absent. • Acid in the stomach with reflux up in the ‘food pipe’ • Chronic bronchitis • Medication • Smoking Many experts recommend performing a chest X-ray and a CT scan of the sinuses as part of the evaluation for a chronic cough. Specialists (allergists and pulmonologists) will also perform specialized tests for asthma. When a chest X-ray is normal, then the above causes account for the overwhelming majority of cases of chronic coughing. The doctor will perform a history and physical examination, which may give clues to the cause of the chronic cough. In some instances, it may be necessary to give trials of treatment for the above, as the physical examination may not give clues to the cause of the cough. IRRITANTS AND MEDICATIONS. People who smoke or who are exposed to irritants in a job or hobby should avoid these triggers. Medications such as ACE inhibitors (blood pressure medications) are wellknown causes of coughing, and should be switched by the physician to a different type of medication. A cough may last for up to 4 weeks after an ACE inhibitor is stopped. POST-NASAL DRIP. This is the most common cause of chronic cough. Post-nasal drip, if present on the history (throat-clearing) or on the physical exam, may be treated with a decongestant/anti-histamine

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combination (as above in acute cough) and a prescription nasal spray (such as a nasal steroid). If these medications do not help, it may be necessary to ensure that the post-nasal drip is not due to a sinus infection by performing a sinus CT scan. ASTHMA. Asthma is the second most common cause of chronic cough. A cough may be the only sign of asthma, although many people will also complain of wheezing and shortness of breath as well. Special tests, including ‘Lung Function Test’ can help determine if the cough is due to asthma. However, these tests may be normal, so a trial of asthma therapy (such as an inhaled steroid) may be needed for approximately 1-2 months. HIGH ACID LEVELS WITH REFLUX (GERD). GERD is the third most common cause of chronic cough, and the majority of people with this type of cough do not realize that they have GERD. Another form of GERD, called laryngopharyngeal reflux (LPR), causes a cough with a hoarse voice and throat clearing. A trial of therapy for GERD typically for many weeks to months, may be needed for the cough to resolve. SOME TYPES OF CHRONIC BRONCHITIS (EOSINOPHILIC). This form of chronic cough occurs in up to 13 percent of people, and can be diagnosed with looking at the person’s sputum under a microscope. Because there is no other testing available to diagnose this type of cough, a trial of inhaled steroids (for 1-2 months) is often part of the therapies given to a person with a chronic cough when the cause is not readily apparent. Less common causes of chronic cough include habit cough (nervous tic), ear wax (or other foreign body) impaction in the ear, some types of lung cancers, heart failure and some lung diseases. Therefore, if the cough persists despite the above referral to a specialist may be required for further evaluation.

Dr. Z. Teebi

is a Medical Consultant with a special interest in Allergy. He studied and graduated from the Imperial College London (UK). E. info@allergyclinicmalta.com

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watermelon

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October 2019

BRUNICO: On the outskirts of the buzzing small town of Brunico, in South Tyriol, 2,300 metres above sea level lies a stunning restaurant, AlpiNN which is Norbert Niederkofler’s second restaurant

organised a unique four hands dinner in this incredible location. This was the first such event which will see other internationally renowned chefs visit the mountain restaurant.

in the region.

Together, the two chefs created a harmonious menu that respected the region and its produce.

The Italian chef rose to fame for his restaurant St Hubertus, which entered the 3 Michelin star hall of fame in 2017. At AlpiNN, he has taken the Cook the Mountain philosophy not just in his cooking but also in the way that the restaurant has been designed.

The Mexican chef, together with his assistant Eliana, got some ingredients specifically from Mexico. One was the mole of San Pedro Atocpan which they served with wild mushrooms and the other was ‘cocopaches’ or beetles.

Together with Mexican chef Jorge Vallejo of restaurant Quintonil, Norbert Niederkofler and his team

Jorge Vallejo of Quintonil restaurant, considered to be one of the top restaurants in the world, is one of the

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The four hands of

Vallejo with Norbert Niederkofler by Ivan Brincat - FoodandWineGazette

chefs to emerge after his experience at Enrique Olvera’s Puyol. He runs the restaurant together with his wife Alejandra Flores. They focus on vegetables and greens which are picked from a nearby garden. He and his team keep their carbon footprint low with most of the ingredients they use less than 100 metres away. Silence fell in the dining room when Jorge showed the actual ‘beetles’ which were served together with grilled beef. The guests at the restaurant had heard the word cocopaches in the description but little did they know that they were about to eat beetles that looked like a cockroach. But the cocopache is a kind of beetle that has existed for 300 million years and lives in mesquite trees. It has analgesic and anesthetic properties as well as a high content of proteins and amino acids. This beetle has been consumed since the pre-hispanic era mostly in

Puebla and Hidalgo and is eaten with salt and lime, in tacos and sauces, Each of the dishes at the dinner represented the mountains which is the philosophy used in the kitchen at AlpiNN and St Hubertus. The normal menu is based on seasonal and regional products with waste being cut to a minimum. Even bottled water is not transported up to the restaurant. Chef Niederkofler sees no point in transporting thousands of bottles by cable car only to have to bring down the bottles again. Instead he uses filtered water. After the aperitivo served in the foyer of the LUMEN museum which is next to the restaurant, Jorge Vallejo presented his first dish, smoked trout with yuzu, infused oil with mustard seeds, brassica and horse radish and an

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emulsion of oyster and herbs. The Mexican chef made a ceviche which did not use chili water but mustard seeds, horse radish and brassica to replace the chili and give the necessary spiciness to the dish. Norbert Niederkofler, influenced by Japan, served fresh water eel that was influenced from his trips to Japan. He glazed it with soda sauce that he made from mountain lentils and used the rest of the eel to make a stock and serve it as a ‘tea’. Jorge Vallejo than served an atocpan style mole with a selection of wild mushrooms in an emulsion of butter and verbena which was accompanied by a mole and golden raisin bread that resembled a panettone.

Atocpan means fertile land in ‘nahuatl’. It is the mole that best represents Mexico city. This mole was first created more than 50 years ago. A first, it was a mix of different moles like poblano, green and other ‘adobos’ but shortly after, it developed its own characteristics and became one of a kind. The mole is made with ‘chile mulato’ ‘chile ancho’ and chile pasilla, chocolate, seeds, fruit, cinnamon, clove, cumin as well as other spices. It is usually accompanied with turkey, rabbit, chicken, or by itself with tortillas. Originally this mole was prepared within the community to celebrate religious holidays, weddings and baptisms. This mole has gained popularity and is eaten all over Mexico City and surrounding areas. Approximately 3,650 tons of mole is produced each year.

Norbert Neiderkofler made a very local dish, barley which was served with butter and mountain herbs.

Jorge Vallejo then served his ‘beetle dish’ grilled beef with eggplant, ‘pico de gallo’ salsa borracha and bone marrow with the beetle sauce.

He then showed his philosophy of using all ingredients and minimising waste to a minimum in his next dish. It was a perfectly cooked veal tongue that was marinated in wine for 2 days and was served with a sauce made from the ‘waste of vegetables’ that would normally have been thrown away. The vegetables were braised and reduced and the lingonberries added (to increase acidity to the dish). Norbert does not use lemons (or olive oil) because they do not come from the region.

The dessert was candied pumpkin which was served with bee honey and milk ice-cream. The winemakers from the region presented their wines during the dinner including Elizabetta Foradori known for her ‘natural’ mountain wines. The interior design of AlpiNN which opened in December 2018 was designed by world famous artist Martino Gamper from South Tyrol and all the materials of the restaurant come from the surroundings.

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Taste of ITALY Review on

GRANA

lose your eyes for a while and think about a cool outlet situated in the very heart of Gÿira, that offers good food and which evokes famous Italian restaurants in the United States such as Maggiano’s Little Italy, Buca di Beppo, and Carino’s Italian. Open your eyes to find yourself at the doorstep of Grana at 115 The Strand Hotel and Suites. Madonna Mia!! This place is on fire!

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The new restaurant in town, Grana is cool, modern, and with a distinct “little Italy” touch that makes it really stand out of the crowd. Giulio Camilleri, owner of Grana notes, “The name is a clear statement of the style of food one should expect at Grana. It is derived from the famous Italian cheese, Grana Padano.” He points out that the concept developed since we had a space and wanted to use it in the best possible manner. The idea was to develop a family concept which is pretty much lacking in the area. At Grana, all members of the family will feel comfortable. The children can eat their favourite pizza, pasta or burger whilst the parents can opt for tagliata, frittura mista or ravioli. It is an Italian restaurant with an American touch. The place has that unique feel you generally come across in any Italian eatery in South Carolina, San Diego, and especially in the famous Little Italy area in New York. The moment you step into Grana you get that feel you will only experience at Benito One or any other restaurant in Little Italy, New York. The place also evokes scenes we generally come across whilst watching the famous TV series, Cake Boss. The inviting and informal seating plan boasts the marriage of modern and classic New York dining. Moreover, the place has a sense of casual ambience which spells out in the choice of furniture, in the selection of cutlery, in the decor and in the strong presence of glass and mirrors which gives the place that unique element of depth and width. Not to mention the matt grey floor tiles which contrast with the white glossy wall tiles. And if the concept of Little Italy still does not register in your mind, a look at the choice of images that adorn the outlet’s walls will quickly bring you into perspective. At the centre of the restaurant lies an open kitchen which gives every guest the opportunity for a quick sneak peak. Above all, the layout, colours, tiles and choice of furniture are meant to ensure that every family feels at home, entertained with good food, a great ambience and a good service.

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GRANA

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GRANA

es, pizzas, and burgers. Gnocchi Sorrentina, Burger 1951 and Cotoletta alla Milanese are a few items you will come across in the impressive menu of Grana. Do not be too concerned about your hunger. Portions are huge. Quantity does not in any way compromise quality. Every dish is prepared with fresh, high quality ingredients sourced from a narrow reliable circle of suppliers. When dining at Grana make sure to leave some space for dessert. The selection is impressive, all prepared in house by “lo zio Pippo”. Food is complemented by a good selection of wines, some very interesting cocktails and a good selection of beers among others.

The food is good and based on an Italian-American concept. Much of Italian-American cuisine is based on that found in Campania and Sicily, heavily Americanized to reflect ingredients and conditions found in the United States. Most pizza eaten around the world derives ultimately from the Neapolitan style, if somewhat thicker and usually with more toppings in terms of quantity. The menu prepared by the talented Chef Walter Lucifora offers a vast selection of appetisers, starters, salads, main cours-

Service is impeccable. The moment you step into the outlet, you are greeted by Massimo Brizio who no matter what mood you are in, he will quickly put you at ease and bring a smile to your face. I do consider my daughters as hard nuts to crack and yet Massimo with his warm smile and characteristic “Mamma Mia!” broke the ice with them. He quickly turned to be their best friend when he brought colouring papers and crayons! The service is impeccable thanks to a young and dynamic team which is constantly monitored by the vigil eyes of Massimo. The place is a breath of fresh air for all those looking for a family friendly place where they can enjoy good food and a good bottle of wine or beer in a relaxed environment. Notwithstanding the concerns the location may evoke in terms of parking, I feel the place is certainly worth a try or even more. Buon apetito!

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October 2019

#Tastes Heavenly

Shop our dessert selection online 64

October 2019

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WWW.CCAMILLERIANDSONSLTD.COM.MT

MUNCHIES

PAPPARDELLE WITH PEAR AND ROQUEFORT CHEESE

(SERVES 2)

INGREDIENTS: 300grms fresh pappardelle 100grms pears 100grms Roquefort cheese 20grms olive oil 30grms walnuts 10grms pink pepper corns 50ml fresh cream

METHOD: ■ Sauce: Chop the pears and sauté with olive oil, walnuts and pepper corns. Add Roquefort cheese. Boil the fresh pasta for 5 minutes, drain and toss with the above-mentioned sauce for 2 minutes. Finish with a touch of fresh cream.

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October 2019

MUNCHIES

DUCK AND MANGO SALAD

(SERVES 2)

INGREDIENTS: 350grms duck breast 1 whole mango 1 whole Chinese cabbage 8 leaves of fresh mint 4 spring onions 100grms pea shoots 30grms peanuts 2tsp lime juice 2tsp sesame seed oil 1tsp fish sauce

METHOD: â&#x2013; Cook duck breast in a frying pan, skin down to your liking (recommended medium) and set aside. Shred the Chinese cabbage, chop the spring onions and mint leaves. Toss with the peanuts, pea shoots and mango. Add the fried and sliced duck breast, drizzle with lime juice, sesame seed oil, fish sauce and serve.

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uciano`s Restaurant is a family run restaurant located in the heart of Valletta. Set in a historic building, built 500 years ago by the Order of the Knights of St. John. This building was used by the Knights as a residence. Located in the city centre, on Merchants Street, Luciano Restaurant is well known for its Mediterranean cuisine. At ground floor level, one can eat and drink inside our newly refurbished, fully air conditioned restaurant. Outside seating is also available on the square, adjacent to St. John’s Cathedral. Our fine dining restaurant is found on the second floor accessible by lift or stairs. Offering a relaxing atmosphere with lovely views overlooking St. John’s Cathedral and the square. We offer a wide variety of meals such as pasta, scrumptious pizza, crispy salads, meats and fresh fish. We also specialise in traditional Maltese food such as rabbit, home-made Bragioli and platters. It is our pleasure to welcome you and serve you at our family run restaurant. We cater for any occasions such as staff parties, birthdays, bachelor’s parties, hen’s nights, etc.

Summer Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 8.00am to 11.00pm Sunday from 10.30am to 4.00pm

Winter Opening hours: Monday to Thursday from 8.00am to 10.30pm Friday & Saturday from 8.00am to 11.00pm Sunday from 10.30am to 4.00pm

Luciano Restaurant 21,22 Merchant Street, Valletta Tel: 21 236212, 99454543 E-mail: vallettaboutique@gmail.com

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Introducing the NEW

NestlĂŠ Consumer Centre Pantar Road, Lija, LJA 2021 70

October 2019

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Freephone 8007 4114

SHOP Purchase your favourite participating NestlĂŠ Collect products with over 200 to choose from.

COLLECT Save the packaging, register online and start earning points. View all eligible products on our website www.nestle-collect.com

REDEEM Finally, visit us at the NestlĂŠ Consumer Centre to exchange your packaging and redeem your points for exciting gifts.

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October 2019

Legendary

TURBOT

Interview with

AITOR Arregui, Elkano

itor Arregui’s father used to say that to buy the best fish, you have to look the animal in the eyes and see that it still retains the brightness that means it is fresh. Today, his son and family run the most prestigious grill in the Basque Country. Its secret lies on a fundamental principle namely that every person at Elkano has learnt to pay attention to the breed and living conditions of the farm animals, and to celebrate the whole beast, nose to tail. Moreover, at Elkano they appreciate and understand the connection between time and place and taste, the biodynamic rhythms and life cycles of different species, their varying characteristics, predilections, diets and habits, even — from cheek to eye to throat to bony fin — the different parts of their anatomy.

important to know when the fish was caught. Once you have a good ingredient, says Aitor, the next important thing is not to ruin it!

Aitor explains that “we care about three things; first, to be near the fish, then there is the ever-important terroir and finally, it is

Chef Arregui shares with us the origins of Elkano, what lies behind the restaurant’s reputation and the secret for a perfect turbot.

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Aitor’s skill on the grill involves managing heat and cooking time to achieve the right level of doneness, without drying out the fish. Part of the secret of the turbot lies in keeping the fish whole and the skin on, which protects it from drying out, along with regular squirts of olive oil and lemon. Elkano is also known for using the whole fish—and always has, long before head-to-tail cuisine was fashionable. The cheeks, head and tail are all used and served to allow diners to explore the palette of flavour and texture that increases when you move away from the meaty flanks. The cheeks, kokotxas in Basque, are a local favourite.

I read that it all started in a bar way back in the 1960s. Can you tell us more about the origins of ELKANO? “ELKANO” as we know it today opened its doors in 1964. My father went to Germany and on his return he opened a small bar for fishermen initially under the name of “Bar Elkano”. Fishermen came with their catch and my father used to cook it for them. He developed his own pioneering ways of grilling based on techniques used by local fishermen. Indeed, at the heart of his method lies the approach adopted by our grandfathers for decades on their own vessels. Their know-how was incredible and is still used today in our own kitchen.

Credits: Elkano

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Elkano adheres to the concept of terroir. Can you elaborate further on such approach? I understand that we are talking about the “marine terroir”. In this case we make a nod to the world of viticulture, translating the term “terroir”. Terroir is a term of French origin that designates a homogeneous delimited space neo that which presents some striking particularity in its agricultural production, a production endowed with special features provided by the geography, geology and climate of a particular place. Since time immemorial, the children of the sea have been able to differentiate the peculiarities that the same species presents in delimited maritime areas, characterized, also, by its geography, geology and oceanography. This is what in the Elkano we call “marine terroir”.

What makes Elkano stand out of the crowd? The most honest answer to that question is that “Elkano” does not intend to do anything that is not based on that observance of the aforementioned. Perhaps “different” is the effort to show ourselves faithful to the tradition we were quoting, always trying to be respectful of what the sea offers us, trying to intervene as subtly as possible in the resolution of the product in order to achieve maximum power. The pleasure at the table. Remember the maxim of Pedro Arregui “buy well and not spoil it.” Maximum internalized, including me and the whole team of “Elkano”. .

You have often noted that “the sea is our big kitchen and the cooks are the fishermen.” Can you elaborate? It is necessary to perform a humble exercise. Our existence is linked and depends on two factors namely; the sea which offers us the raw material and the species that inhabit the same seas. The observation in generations, the continued practice, the transmission of knowledge that the fishermen treasure are fundamental for our constant access of a genuine and fresh raw material. These people are rarely acknowledged for the value they contribute and for their “know-how” yet without them quality fish cannot be guaranteed.

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AITOR ARREGUI

Even as long as possible, we will be faithful to our hallmarks.

VANGUARD IS TRADITION IN CONSTANT EVOLUTION DELICIOUS

October 2019

INDIAN GASTRONOMY 11 TAâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; XBIEX SEAFRONT, MSIDA

ONLINE RESERVATIONS: SHAKINAHMALTA.COM /SHAKINAH.TAXBIEXSEAFRONT

+356 27 522 322

+356 77 399 300

INFO@SHAKINAHMALTA.COM

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AITOR ARREGUI

Your father used to say that to buy the best fish, you have to look the animal in the eyes and see that it still retains the brightness. Why? His exact phrase would be, “fish are like people, you have to look them in their eyes”. Indeed, our goal is to constantly ensure our clients are entertained with a genuine fresh product which has the perfect and bright eyeballs of freshly caught fish and the smell of its freshness caught in a sustainable manner.

Tell us about your famous turbot grilled over oak charcoal. What makes it so sought after by many food enthusiasts? The turbot was considered to be a coveted piece in the haute cuisine that was usually consumed roasted in the oven or in sauce without skin. Yet one day, while my father Pedro was on the grill, he was approached by a friend fisherman, Faustino Xumeta with a large turbot. Given the situation and changing criteria in the pooling to cook it, he proposed to cook the fish whole over the coal. Cooking the turbot whole ensures the natural fat from its meats would not be lost. So indeed, once you remove the turbot from the grill on to the tray, you notice that it releases a lot of juices. To complement this amazing product, my mother, Maria José, decides to add a soft vinaigrette. And that is the memory of our house, that which makes the turbot from the hands of the culinary landscape, marking a new way to interpret it. Since then, our turbot has exalted the taste buds of so many clients that paid a visit to our outlet.

Why do you consider the turbot a plurality concept? Turbot is part of the environment like the other elements in the Cantabrian Sea. Elkano is also famous for the kokotxas (cod throats). Our philosophy is “Sasoian Sasoikua” (in each season his own). Thus, having each one of them, always keeping the premises of closeness, “terroir” and temporality.

What’s next for Aitor Arregui? Perhaps at this moment we are worried about the changes that are taking place in our environment. At this time, we observe that the seasonal tempos we observed in the species are altered. On the other hand, we forget more and more easily that at each time of the year there is part of a biological cycle in the species that we ignore and do not respect. We abuse products, consuming them outside their ideal season. The younger generations have no knowledge of the origin of the food we consume. We are losing the transmission of consumption that has been forged from the Neolithic era. Culture is knowledge, perched after thousands, hundreds of years of oral transmission, of immaterial elements...

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October 2019

curiosity, Driven by

inspired by passion

Interview with

TYRONE

Agius I always wondered how those delicate hands would create such good food irrespective of whether it was a simple sauce, a cake or a more elaborate meal. Watching mum prepare food was a pleasure to the eye and inevitably developed in me a keen interest to know more and learn more about food. 78

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Credits: Alan Saliba

oung, bold, humble and with a pair of deep dark eyes that reflect his inner drive and passion towards all that is connected to the world of food and wine. Tyrone Agius is a surveyor by profession yet from his early steps in his mother’s kitchen, he showed a keen interest in anything related to food. A food and wine enthusiast who notwithstanding his very busy agenda, finds time to experiment with new concepts and research on food trends. From a very young age, his inquisitive eyes carefully observed every move his mother made in the kitchen. “I always wondered how those delicate hands would create such good food irrespective of whether it was a simple sauce, a cake or a more elaborate meal. Watching mum prepare food was a pleasure to the eye and inevitably developed in me a keen interest to know more and learn more about food.” He adds, “I have often wondered how the taste or smell of freshly baked local bread, a sweet, a cake or an entire meal is capable of painting a picture with richer, deeper brush strokes than any snapshot in my photograph album. It is indeed amazing how food evokes memories connected to my home town, my family and my childhood.” Indeed, his time spent in that kitchen among those many pots and pans served as a perfect setting for him to experiment more, irrespective of whether it was a quick snack or a family BBQ.

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TYRONE AGIUS

His interest in food and wine continued to evolve during his time working as a part time barman in a leading local hotel. It was there where he learnt about wines and on cooking methods. “Every wine I came across, was an opportunity for me to learn more on the elaborate process which lies behind every bottle. My time there, was also an opportunity for me to know more about new ingredients, new methods of cooking and different ways how to preserve food.” His interest in food continued to develop further when he met the love of his life and partner in crime, Fiona who for some time worked as a chef in various leading eateries in Malta and abroad including a 3 Michelin Star restaurant. His relationship with Fiona, inevitably brought him closer to the world of food. She taught him new cooking methods, she shared with him the art of fine dining and, she triggered in him the appetite to experiment more with food and above all they shared a common passion for wine. Yet, Tyrone admits that it was the famous American computer-animated comedy film produced by Pixar and released by Walt Disney Pictures, Ratatouille that played a determining role to experiment more with food. “Ratatouille taught me a lot on the need to smell and taste food. It also taught me the fundamental lesson that where there is a will, there is a way.” It was at that point in time when he felt an urge to start experimenting with several home made products including cured meats, sausage making, as well as preserving sun-dried tomatoes, goat cheese and tomato paste. The concept of preserving was not new to him. From a very young age he used to watch his father prepare pickled onions, æbejniet and other delicacies all collected from their own field. Sadly, the field has been sold yet his interest in preserving did not fade away. It was at this stage that he invested his time and money to learn more about curing meats and slow food process. He looks at the kitchen where a thick hardbound book on slow cooking lies and notes; “that is my cooking bible. It taught me all the basics for a perfect slow cooking. The secret lies in the ability to be patient. The final result is amazing.” He notes that there is a commonality between slow cooking, preserving and curing of hams. “They all need time and the final result pretty much depends on that factor.” Since embarking on such a project, Tyrone developed a close relationship with several leading farmers in his home village of Mæarr. “The final product is incredible. I really can’t explain why, but the taste is different. In some way better than from any other place.”

Yet for Tyrone, food is not only a matter of pleasure. It is also about healthy living. His awareness on healthy food further strengthened when his son, Dean was born. “I felt the need to offer my son an opportunity for a healthy diet. It was at this stage where my cooking started focusing more on home made food including soups, pastas and other healthy dishes. I started asking myself - why shouldn’t I try to prepare my own homemade ketchup, my own burgers with a healthy twist and my own sauces? Initially, it was a matter of trial and error yet I feel now I am offering Fiona and Dean something different, something good and above all, something better. He admits that with their hectic life constantly cooking good is not an easy option yet with some good planning, it can work out well. He points out that sadly families often resort to the faster and easier route of precooked food yet research constantly tells us that it is harmful and with minimal nutritional value. Tyrone has also developed an interest in wine. ‘Wine was something on my mind. I always wanted to do something with it. This interest developed during my days spent with my father who used to produce homemade wine on a very small scale.” The opportunity knocked at his door one fine day when he came across Emann Agius who shared a similar vision. He coincidentally learnt though Facebook that Emann was experimenting with wine and slowly teamed up together. “In 2017, we started this journey together from a small place just under my house experimenting with Cabarnet Sauvignon. Last year we also produced some Merlot wine and this year we will try Syrah and Sauvignon Blanc. We are investing slowly yet in a firm manner.” He admits that during this journey, they had their ups and downs. Yet, “we identified our downs and moved on. It is a hobby and that is what we want it to be for the time being.” I ask Tyrone what keeps him going notwithstanding all the challenges to which he quickly points out “I am driven by ambition and curiosity to know more. Sometimes you feel down yet the idea of creating something yourself helps you move forward and continue striving for your goals.” It is time to conclude and without further ado, I ask Tyrone a final word of advise for all those with a passion and interest to invest their time and money in the world of food and wine. “You need to research, create a timeframe and start. You need to start slowly. Do not think big, keep your feet on the ground yet always keep your set goals in mind.”

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October 2019

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ONE KIND of a

Interview with

LETIZIA Vella, Chef Patron at The Golden Fork

hef Letizia Vella is one of Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s young talents who is gradually leaving her mark on the local food industry. Her sense of creativity, detail and ability to exalt local produce is impeccable. I had the opportunity to taste Letiziaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s food and must say her balance of flavours is incredible. No dish is too little or too much. Every plate has that sense of perfection in terms of taste, colour and portion. Above all, her dishes portray her strong will to create something different, something good and something special without sacrificing that sense of simplicity which should always prevail in any dish presented. Credits: Albert Camilleri

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October 2019

FRESH NEW MENU AT THE GALLEY RESTAURANT

E GALLE

Seasonal Seafood, Premium Meats, Pasta Dishes or just a light afternoon snack. The Galley Bar & Restaurant welcomes you to a light lunch or dine in style on our spectacular terrace on the water’s edge. Fully stocked bar with a good selection of wines, spirits and cocktails and easy parking.

TA U R A N

THE GALLEY B A R & R E S TAU R A N T

Ta’ Xbiex Seafront, Ta’ Xbiex. T: [+356] 7931 8801 E: reservationsthegalleytaxbiex.com W: thegalleytaxbiex.com

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Food means so much to her. It has the same feeling a painter has with his canvas, an actor has with the camera or a pianist has with his piano. She is in love with the profession. From a very tender age, she was attracted to those pots and pans hanging all around her mother’s kitchen, intrigued by the smell of freshly baked bread coming from the bakery close by and inspired by the smell of oven baked rice from her grandmother’s kitchen. Food piqued her curiosity, enticed her creativity and above all expressed her talent. After completing her studies at the Institute of Tourism Studies, she had the opportunity to work as an intern with Heston Blumenthal’s three Michelin Star restaurant, The Fat Duck. Later, she also had the opportunity to work as Chef de Partie at Dinner by Heston Blumenthal. She considers her time spent in London as “a very enriching experience which helped me grow both from a professional and personal point of view. The opportunity to work close to such a genius and other talent in that kitchen helped me understand the importance of curiosity and experimentation. I also learnt that cooking is one thing, but eating and experiencing different tastes is what completes the relationship with food.” Following her stint abroad, Letizia was called to work in leading eateries in Malta. Nevertheless, a fundamental element in her life to reach such heights in her career was certainly her family. They are her inspiration, her motivation and her guide in every decision she takes. Indeed, her family played a fundamental role in her decision to open her new restaurant, The Golden Fork. Notwithstanding all the challenges the food industry offers, she took the plunge into the entrepreneurial world.

LETIZIA VELLA

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LETIZIA VELLA

In the very heart of Œ’Attard, hidden among the old imposing townhouses and colourful doors, lies this small food outlet. The place has that cozy feel only a traditional Maltese home will offer with an emphasis on soft fresh colours which offer the place a distinct vibrant look. Natural stone is complemented with the beautiful colours of traditional Maltese pattern tiles floor and the imposing paintings that adorn the place. Notwithstanding its traditional look the place also boasts a contemporary kick which is visible in various details here and there. Moreover, the place boasts an imposing staircase which brings the place together. Letizia’s food ethos is spelt out in every dish prepared. She points out that every dish is borne by the fundamental principle to “keep it simple, exalt the beauty in every ingredient and above all ensure it tastes amazing.” Letizia adds that at the heart of every dish she prepares lies a cuisine which stresses on local genuine fresh ingredients. “There is a story behind every herb, vegetable, fish or meat which should be carefully shared with every guest. Every ingredient is a note which when brought together, creates an amazing piece of music.” She adds that “I always considered myself a

rule breaker and never felt I could fit into strait jackets. I always saw food as means to think out of the box and an opportunity to turn the conventional into unconventional.” Irrespective of whether it is a pork belly, a roasted cauliflower or a sea bass, every dish focuses on simplicity, accentuating the beauty of fresh, high quality ingredients and with an attention to detail. Nothing is coincidental in Letizia’s dishes. Every ingredient has a specific role and is part of the chain that forms a spectacular plate. The menu changes regularly in line with the seasonal produce available. Her desserts are simply divine and worth a try. Cookie Tart, Goats Milk Cheesecake and Milk-Chocolate Fondant are a few teasers of what to expect at the end of a meal at The Golden Fork. The Golden Fork is truly a gem and a place to keep in mind when passing through the village of Œ’Attard. Letizia’s work is simply stunning and certainly worth a try. When planning your next night out, do make sure to keep in mind The Golden Fork.

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Seafood Risotto INGREDIENTS: 4 Argentina prawns 300gr Çerna thinly sliced 250gr mussels shell on and shell off 400gr prawns shell off 50gr vegetable oil 50gr onions 30gr garlic 50gr leeks 100ml white wine 150gr cherry tomatoes 15gr tomato paste 200ml fish stock 20gr basil

(SERVES 4)

Risotto 50gr leeks 20gr garlic 240gr risotto arborio – short grain rice 50gr olive oil 50gr butter

METHOD:  Sauté the prawns and seafood in the vegetable oil, add the onions, leeks, garlic and tomato paste, lower the heat and simmer for 4 minutes. Add the white wine, cherry tomatoes, 50ml of fish stock and simmer for a further 8 minutes.  In a heavy based pan sauté the garlic and onion in olive oil. Add the rice and stir for a couple of minutes until well coated. Pour in the remaining fish stock and boil for around 8 minutes.  Gently add the seafood sauce, leaving the fish to be added at the end. Simmer for about 15-20 minutes, stirring continuously until the stock is all absorbed.  Add the fish, basil and butter towards the end of the cooking. Plate neatly, top with the king prawns and fresh basil.

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October 2019

AZZOPARDI FISHERIES

Stuffed CalamariwithOlive Salsa

(SERVES 2)

For the calamari:

Method:

4 calamari 400gr perch or any white fish 50gr onions 50gr leeks 20gr garlic 1 egg Olive oil 50ml white wine – optional Parsley – basil

 Clean the calamari, remove the tentacles , finely chop and sauté in olive oil. In another pan add some olive oil, sauté the onion, leeks, garlic and add the white wine. Together with the white fish place in a food processor and slowly add the cooked calamari tentacles and combine with one egg.  Spoon mixture into the calamari and secure the end part with a skewer , wrap tightly with cling film and steam cook for 35 minutes. Leave until almost cool and slice gently.  Sprinkle with the chopped parsley and shredded basil.

For the sauce: 100gr black olives 50gr onions 40gr celery 20gr garlic 30gr tomato paste 400gr tomatoes fresh or local tomato polpa Basil

For the sauce:  Put 40ml olive oil in a pan, add the olives, garlic, celery and the tomato paste and cook on low heat for about 4 minutes. Add the fresh tomatoes or tomato polpa and 50ml of water and simmer for a further 15 minutes.

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October 2019

99262807 beechwoodltd@hotmail.com www.beechwoodltd.com Beechwood Ltd

Moved to: 2, Triq Sant Andrija,Luqa. (Opposite to School) Chairs can be polished in 12 different colours. Seats can be solid, raffia or upholstered. Tables can be produced made to measure or extendable.

ONEY CORNER CONFECTIONERY, grown since 1991 specializing in confectionery items, fine

oin us as we embark on a journey to explore the wine world. We’ll introduce you to wine regions which are underrepresented in Malta, while still ranking high in quality. Get in touch and discover our niche wines on adrian@holywines.com.mt

wines/spirits, tobacco/cigarettes, deli-counter, fresh

bread brought in our stores twice daily and our famous home baked bread. Building loyalty with our clients throughout the years brought us to be the most sought after confectionery in Marsascala. Joining our loyalty scheme will reward our clients from a ¢20 voucher by gaining one point for every ¢1 spent in both of our stores. Our opening hours are Monday to Sunday

www.holywines.com.mt

October 2019

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from 6:00hrs to 23:00hrs.

AARON’S KITCHEN

Gluten-free spinach ricotta gnocchi Credit: Mar’s Photography

INGREDIENTS

METHOD

250g ricotta 180g gluten-free flour 100g fresh spinach 2 cloves garlic 1 finely chopped onion 1 tsp butter 50g grated pecorino ½ tsp grated nutmeg 2 egg yolks Extra virgin olive oil Handful cherry tomatoes Few basil leaves 2 tbsp pine nuts 2 tbsp butter

 Place the ricotta in sieve and allow to drain from any liquid. Cook the onion in a knob of butter over low heat until soft, add the garlic and spinach and cook until wilted, transfer to a sieve and allow draining. To knead the gnocchi, mix the ricotta, spinach, egg yolks, nutmeg, pecorino cheese and gluten free flour. Combine and knead into smooth dough. Cover with cling film and allow to rest for 30 minutes in a refrigerator. Roll the dough onto a lightly dusted surface and cut into 2 cm pieces. Boil the gnocchi in plenty of boiling salted water.  To serve, remove the gnocchi with a slotted spoon and toss together with the cherry tomatoes, pine nuts, basil leaves, butter and grated Pecorino, adding a little of the cooking water to the gnocchi to bind the ingredients.

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October 2019

AARONâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S KITCHEN

Lamb shanks ras el hanout, roasted bell pepper, sundried tomato and barley risotto

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INGREDIENTS For the lamb 2 Hind lamb shanks 2 cloves garlic 1 red onion 1 carrot 1 celery stick 2tsps Ras el hanout 1 cinnamon stick Handful dried apricots Zest and juice of a lime 1tsp fresh ginger grated 1 red chili Chicken stock Extra virgin olive oil

For the barley 1packet pearl barley 1 shallot 2tbsps butter 2 bell peppers roasted, peeled & chopped 2tbsps chopped sundried tomatoes 2tbsps chopped pistachios Chicken stock 1 pomegranate Fresh coriander

METHOD  Rub the lamb shanks generously with the ras el hanout. Heat some oil in a heavy based pan and seal the lamb shanks from both sides until browned. Remove the lamb shanks from the pan and add the chopped vegetables, chilli, ginger and cinnamon. Cook until golden brown. Return meat to the pan, cover with enough chicken stock, add lime juice and zest. Bring to the boil, reduce heat and simmer for 1½ hours until lamb is tender, almost falling off the bone and sauce has thickened.  For the barley risotto, cook the chopped shallot in butter until soft, stir in the barley and toast for a minute. Gradually pour in chicken stock and cook until barley is soft and water has been absorbed. Remove from heat, stear in the cherry tomatoes and bell peppers, chopped coriander and pistachios. Finish with a knob of butter. Serve together with the lamb, sprinkled with the pomegranate and extra coriander leaves.

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AARON’S KITCHEN

Soft ricotta doughnuts with milk chocolate dipping sauce

Credit: Mar’s Photography

INGREDIENTS 200g ricotta 1 egg Zest of an orange ½ tsp ground cinnamon ½ tsp vanilla essence 60g caster sugar

135g flour 1 tsp baking powder 200g milk chocolate melted 100ml fresh cream Oil for deep frying Icing sugar for dusting

METHOD  Place the ricotta into a mixing bowl together with the egg, zest, cinnamon, vanilla and sugar. Whisk the ingredients together for a couple of minutes. Next, add in the flour and baking powder and whisk further until dough feels smooth and elastic. Lightly dust the working surface and the palm of your hand. Divide and roll the dough into small balls. Deep fry the mini doughnuts in moderately hot oil for 22 minutes on each side until nicely puffed and golden. Transfer doughnuts to paper towels to drain and cool slightly. Sprinkle with icing sugar and serve with the milk chocolate ganache.

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October 2019

Food, GLORIOUS, Food

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Credits: Brian Grech

Interview with

VICTOR Borg, Chef at Grain

alking down Merchants Street in Valletta, a few doors down from Is-Suq tal-Belt you will

come across the first 5 star luxury hotel in Valletta, Rosselli. The hotel is amazing and is certainly a new feather in the hat of the AX Group. Built in the first decades of the 1600â&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Casa Rosselli-Massa is a clear example of a transitional building, incorporating the classical lines of Renaissance architecture and the more florid early Baroque styles. Moreover, Rosselli today hosts one of Maltaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s best examples of local food excellence, Grain.

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Support Programme Support Programme Support Programme

100

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www.visitgozo.com

VICTOR BORG

Grain is a conglomeration of four concepts namely; Street, Over, Under and Private. Although different, all concepts concur in their sense of good food set in an environment which immediately gives you that feel of class and lavishness with a deep attention to detail which you will only come across in leading eateries across the globe such as Eleven Radisson Park, Mugaritz or Maison Troisgros. Every concept is a statement where gastronomy is taken to a different dimension.

Food is accompanied by an impressive selection of wines all available by the glass. This is one major strength of the outlet which makes it stand out of the crowd. Indeed, it offers the outlet the possibility to be more creative with food and wine pairings. It also offers the unique possibility to compare and contrast different wines. It also gives guests the opportunity to be more adventurous in the way they approach lunch or dinner at Grain.

Steet Grain offers a casual dining experience with small plates to share and with no set rules. Indeed, at Street Grain, there are no set starters or main courses so as to encourage guests to try and share different dishes without giving too much importance to a specific sequence. The menu offers an interesting selection of options which include snacks such as chicken and ham hock fritter, mustard and tarragon mayo or Cantabrian anchovies, ricotta with extra virgin olive oil. The menu also offers a selection of share or not to share items such as veal tonnato, bottarga and beef yakitori, satay glaze, onion garni. All dishes can be accompanied by a good selection of sides. The dessert menu is not to be taken lightly at all. The range includes the classic tiramisu up to more intricate options such as their red plum frangipane tart, crème fraiche.

On the other hand Under Grain is a less casual experience than the one offered by its upstairs sister, Street Grain. To put it in in Ramona Depares’ words, Under Grain is, “the kind of place where you can say you will enjoy an elevated level of cuisine, but without the approach being too stuffy. The place is efficient, and paving the way for me to have some fun and unleash my inner Picasso on a probably bemused kitchen brigade.” The menu includes very interesting combinations which entice the taste buds of any food enthusiast such as Acquerello risotto, smoked eel, snails and persillade to start with and Confit wild sea bass, sweet and sour pork crust, cauliflower miso purée, soya emulsion or BBQ rump of milk-fed veal, pickled clams, courgette purée, bagna cauda and vin jaune to follow. For all those who wish to finish off the meal with a pleasant sweet taste,

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they are spoilt for choice by an impressive selection of desserts such as Yoghurt Bavarois juniper berry meringue, warm pistachio and extra virgin olive oil cake or Warm chocolate mousse, ginger ice cream, honeycomb. Defining this menu as exquisite and divine is simply an understatement! With a breathtaking view and a relaxed, informal atmosphere, our rooftop is an ideal space for various events and functions that want to be held in Valletta. Over Grain offers endless possibilities to entertain guests in a variety of ways, yet remaining unique due to its location and setup. The author of this amazing celebration of food is Chef Victor Borg. Chef Borg is no stranger to the local food scene. He is a pure example of local food excellence. His vanguard approach and undisputed flair has amazed all those who had the opportunity to taste his food. His curriculum is impressive with stints in leading local eateries as well as top Michelin-rated restaurants in Europe. His work is a game of precision where every ingredient has a specific role and contributes to an impressive final product. Every dish spells out his depth in the industry and his undisputed talent. Curious, romantic and with a deep desire to constantly celebrate food. Innovate and an undisputed skill to surprise his guests. A leader in the kitchen and impressively creative audacious, a craftsman, and a real artist. His work is simply playful, illogical, audacious yet never at the cost of ensuring that sense of simplicity which has often been forgotten in time. Indeed, food means so much to him. Victor proudly notes that his motto is; “Food glorious food! What is there more handsome?” At work and in his spare time, Victor celebrates food. “My favourite holiday destination is London and any Michelin-rated restaurant around the world. Gastronomy is my occupation, my passion and my hobby all rolled into one. Whenever I’m away, you can rest assured that I will be having lunch and dinner at top restaurants. This serves as my pleasure and amusement as well as inspiration.”

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VICTOR BORG

Gastronomy is my occupation, my passion and my hobby all rolled into one.

The person he admires most is Gordon Ramsay, the world renowned chef famous for his culinary genius and bad temper. A chance meeting with Gordon Ramsay ended up with Victor working in Gordon’s Aubergine Restaurant when it already enjoyed a one Michelin star. During his stay there, it was awarded its second. “This experience was to mark me in my quest for professional fulfilment.”

Victor now impresses clients with his magical hands at the Grain. Every idea, every concept, every dish there at Grain is a reflection of his amazing culinary skills. Grain is certainly worth a try. The place is indeed a clear proof of Malta’s gastronomic excellence.

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It’s that time

of the year at

MANOUCHE A utumn is a busy time at

Manouche. The landscape

which silently explodes with

vibrant red, yellow and orange

colours, the drop of foliage off the trees,

together with the strong presence of asters, chrysanthemums, pumpkins and corn offer the perfect muse for Bjorn Attard, Andrew Abela, Lottie Taylor and Nadia Debono to create autumn sweets. Clients impatiently wait for their share of Manouche’s classics including eclairs, giant macarons and choix bombe classic, not to mention their chocolate delights. Following the autumn equinox, the place transforms itself into a perfect replica of Willy Wonka’s chocolate factory. Every display at Manouche is an explosion of colours which makes it hard for even the sweetest tooth to choose from. Every product is an explosion of flavours which give justice to high quality seasonal ingredients and the hands of a young, creative and very talented pastry team. Indeed, apples, pecans, citrus and pears serve as a perfect base for some of Manouche’s autumn specialities.

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Every display at Manouche is an explosion of colours which makes it hard for even the sweetest tooth to choose from.

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Every piece is made from the finest chocolate sourced from all over the world.

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MANOUCHE

This year, there is more to watch out for at Manouche. They have recently launched their own version of S’mores! For those who might not be too familiar with the product, S’mores are traditionally cooked using a campfire, though they can also be made at home in an oven, in a microwave or with a s’moresmaking kit. A marshmallow, usually held by a metal or wooden skewer, is heated over the fire until it is golden brown. Traditionally, the marshmallow is gooey but not burnt, but, depending on individual preference and cooking time, marshmallows can range from barely warm to charred. The roasted marshmallow is then added on top of half of a graham cracker and a piece of chocolate. The second half of the cracker is then added on top. S’more is a contraction of the phrase “some more”. One early published recipe for a s’more is found in a book of recipes published by the Campfire Marshmallows company in the 1920s, where it was called a “Graham Cracker Sandwich”. The text indicates that the treat was already popular with both Boy Scouts and Girl Scouts. In 1927, a recipe for “Some More” was published in Tramping and Trailing with the Girl Scouts. Yet there is more to watch out for at Manouche. When visiting the outlet during the autumn season, it would certainly be worth paying a quick look at their tart counter which proudly displays the famous Gâteau Basque, Bourdelaise tart and Pecan pie just to mention a few. Once there, a visit to the patisserie counter is a must. The display is a pleasure to the eye. It boasts Manouche’s version of banoffee pie - a white chocolate and caramelised banana tart. It also includes baked cheesecake as well as the popular eclairs available in a number of flavours including; salted caramel, their pecan signature cream filling, and their new almond and praline flavours. The pastry section also includes the famous Cronuts. For those not too familiar with the term, a Cronut is a croissant-doughnut pastry invented by New York City pastry chef Dominique Ansel of Dominique Ansel Bakery. The pastry resembles a doughnut and is made from croissant-like dough which is filled with flavoured cream and fried in grapeseed oil.

Manouche has also earned a reputation for its selection of chocolates. The selection is impressive and tempting. Every piece is made from the finest chocolate sourced from all over the world. Manouche’s chocolate counter includes fruit and nut bar (which people generally associate with the Cadbury fruit and nut bar), honeycomb, the coconut bar and the Tronky bar. Presented in a stunning display of colourful artistic design, the Manouche chocolate counter is an expression of the skills of our chocolatiers that wows its viewers. The selection also seeks to evoke childhood memories in each and one of us. And what about Manouche’s pralines? They are certainly worth a try in the various flavours available including mint, pistachio, Maltese honey, raspberry and gianduia. Autumn is certainly a great time to pay a visit to Manouche. The place is indeed on fire and certainly the perfect place for a morning meeting or an afternoon catchup. Whilst driving up from Spinola Bay and heading towards the Ta’ Æiorni tunnels, make sure to stop by at Manouche for a quick treat or a take out to share with family and friends.

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Spoon Full of

SUGAR

Interview with

GALE Gand, Pastry Chef, Restaurateur, Cookbook Author, Television Personality, Teacher, Entrepreneur and a mother

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Choose what you love to do, donâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t choose for money.

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GALE GAND

essert lovers are certainly familiar with the name Gale Gand. Her name will surely evoke memories of her all-dessert show that had a tremendously successful run on the Food Network. She appeared on Baking with Julia (Child), Oprah, The Martha Stewart Show, Good Morning America, and The Today Show. She competed on Iron Chef America and has been featured as a celebrity judge on Top Chef and Top Chef: Just Desserts. Yet there’s more to her. She was the founding pastry chef and partner of the acclaimed Chicago restaurant Tru, (opened with long-time culinary partner Chwef Rick Tramonto in 1999). In her free time she has created an artisanal root beer company, raised three kids, written several books, opened a burger restaurant, Spritz Burger with a Next Food Network Star winner, and was recognised as Outstanding Pastry Chef of the Year by The James Beard Foundation and Bon Appetit magazine – and has been inducted into the Chicago Chefs Hall of Fame. And this is just a taste of her accomplishments. We recently caught up with Gale who shared with us her journey in the pastry world, her entrepreneurial path and what’s next for her.

I recently read that at high school you were into jewellery making. What encouraged you to shift towards the culinary world? I was a starving art student in college studying metal smithing after getting interested in it in high school, so started waitressing for the free staff meal. After waitressing for sometime, I got thrown in the kitchen one night when one of our line cooks did a No-show No-call. So really, I didn’t pick this field, it picked me! It was a vegetarian restaurant so it was really simple stuff. And then I started to make desserts for them.

It seems your experience in pastry started off by sheer coincidence when a friend asked if you could fill a pastry chef position. Although you did not know pastry, you said yes. What encouraged you to take such a bold decision and what happened after? I had been trying to get a cooking job but no one besides that first place would hire me because of my lack of experience. So I started reading cook books, practicing, became a private chef, practiced on my clients and then had enough of a repertoire to get a job in the kitchen.

What is so special about desserts? The ingredients and their relationship to each other. It’s physics and chemistry and you need to understand and accept that...almost relinquish yourself to those universal truths to get it to work for you and speak the language of pastry. Then I realized how reliable those reactions are and I can count on them every time so it became very comforting for me. The ability to understand what’s happening with your ingredients and predict what will happen. Also, you get to be a part of people’s celebrations and help them stop time to mark important moments and accomplishments in their lives. 40th anniversaries, birthdays, marriage proposals, bringing in the new year,

beating cancer, etc. It is very intimate to be a part of those moments in peoples lives and so very rewarding and a privilege.

I recently read you have named some of your desserts after personal experiences. How come? I just think it makes sense, and helps me cope with what’s happening in my life and share it with my guests...and it’s funny. When I broke my toes I did a Black and Blue berry cobbler. When I divorced I did a Banana Split Up. I guess it’s how I work through some of the things in my life. I used to do a painting to deal with stuff. Now I do that with food.

What’s a typical day for you as a pastry chef? In the kitchen by 10:00 (to miss the Chicago traffic which is brutal), inventory to see what needs to be made and make that list, brioche dough shaped and rising first, then canelés poured and in the oven as they take a long time to bake, then just work my list of what mise en place needs to be made by service at 5:00. Staff meal at 4:00. Wait staff meeting at 4:30. Cheese cart ready, petit fours cart ready, work the tickets on the board, clean up, drive home, collapse.

What was the experience of having your own cooking show on Food Network like? It was so fun. I love to teach and with 3-4 cameras on me I can really share a lot of details. It was very exciting and fast paced and shot in New York so I’d have to travel for the show. It’s really changed my life and created a very robust career for me that’s gone on much longer than I ever thought it would. I’m so lucky...plus it doubles your book sales and keeps “butts in seats” at your restaurant. It makes for invitations to all sorts of cool things and events and I have fans all over the world and all ages.

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I’m like Elvis in the Philippines, I hear. And I get young pastry chefs come up to me all the time and say it’s because of me and my show that they found their passion in pastry. Then I say, “can we call your mom now so I can apologize?”

What are the major trends in the dessert industry today? Gluten free, vegan, local ingredients, salt and savoury in desserts, Tahini in desserts, CBD in desserts.

You recently noted; “Get as many opportunities as you can…That will help that ‘thing’ find you. It’s looking for you, but you have to be out there.” Can you elaborate? I think the universe sends you what you need and if you are open to it and verbalize that, it will come to you. I have it happen all the time.

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What is your best advice for those looking to succeed in your industry? Choose what you love to do, don’t choose for money. The money will come. Always say yes chef and then figure out later how to do it. You will come through for yourself. And always wear comfortable shoes.

What’s next? I teach a ton locally and nationally, do appearances at food and wine fests but...Email me in a year and I’ll let you know what the universe threw my way.

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STREET Enjoy casual dining with small plates to share and no set rules. All our wines are served by the glass.

UNDER Immerse yourself into informal luxury in our refined restaurant. A curated and classic experience.

Private dining If you would like to dine in a private area, we kindly ask you to get in touch with us on bespoke@grain.mt

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+356 2235 4167 MERCHANTS STREET, VALLETTA