Michigan Uncorked Fall 2022 by userg123

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Uncorked VOL. 4 NO. 3 FALL 2022

COLLEEN PETERSON • NEBBIOLO

CONTENTS

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4 COLLEEN PETERSON Colleen Peterson is tasting room manager at Verterra Vineyards. She talks about life behind the bar and making wine more approachable.

9 THE ITALIAN JOB 4

Along the 45th parallel north, Nebbiolo flourishes at Mari Vineyards as a result of techniques translated from the grape’s native Italy.

12 EXTENDED MACERATION It's like burnt marshmallows; some people love them, others hate them. The topic of extended maceration will undoubtedly elicit a similar array of responses amongst wine professionals; some good, some not so good.

15 GRAPE SCOUTING REPORT 12

Despite a cool spring, the 2022 grape growing season is shaping up to be a good one.

16 MWC UPDATE The Michigan Wine Collaborative is committed to, among other things, the expansion of the MI wine industry by reaching new markets. In pursuit of this goal the MWC has been working hard to plan events in one of the most influential and profitable markets in the state, Detroit.

18 BETWEEN THE VINES Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.

Cover: Colleen Peterson, Verterra

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MESSAGE

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FROM THE EDITOR “Wine improves with age – the older I get, the better I like it.” — Anon

asting Room Manager Colleen Peterson began her career at Verterra Vineyards at the start of the Covid-19 epidemic. Challenging yes, but she was up to the challenge. Regular contributor Cortney Casey interviews Colleen to get a look behind the bar and how to make wine more approachable. Jack Costa provides an in-depth look at extended maceration, a process that has pros and cons, but often yields surprising and bene cial results. Emily Dockery, executive director of the Michigan Wine Collaborative, shares some

information about how the MWC has been working hard to plan events in one of the most in uential and pro table markets in the state: Detroit. Erin Marie Miller’s article titled: “The Italian Job,” focuses on Nebbiolo, an Italian grape that ourishes in the country’s northwest Piedmont region. In Michigan, Nebbiolo is grown at Mari Vineyards as a result of techniques transplanted from the grape’s native Italy. Editor Jim Rink looks at the “growing degrees” data, provided by Michigan State University, to get an idea of what the 2022 harvest might look like this year. And, as always, our very own in-house sommelier Ellen Landis provides her special brand of tasting notes for select Michigan wines.

Cheers,

Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Cortney Casey, Jack Costa, Emily Dockery, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Erin Marie Miller michiganUncorked

Vol. 4 No.3 Fall 2022

Copyright © 2022 by michiganUncorked, LLC Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Editorial Office, Jim Rink P.O. Box 121, Lake Leelanau, MI 49653, editor@michiganuncorked.com Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Website: www.michiganuncorked.com

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Tasting room veteran talks life behind the bar and making wine approachable for all

ON A JOURNEY TOGETHER by Cortney Casey

s if there wasn’t enough upheaval

occurring in spring 2020, Colleen Peterson was preparing for a job interview. It was shortly after the start of the pandemic, and just before Gov. Gretchen Whitmer lifted quarantine restrictions. The odd circumstances led to a whole new level of anxiety for Peterson as she prepared to meet with Verterra Winery co-owner Paul Hamelin. “I was so nervous,” recalls Peterson, who — spoiler alert — ultimately snagged the Colleen Peterson, Verterra Vineyard

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position as Verterra tasting room manager. “Do I wear a mask? Will it be outside? Do I shake his hand?” Prior to working at Ver terra, Peterson spent eight years at Sandhill Crane Vineyards in Jackson, on the Pioneer Wine Trail, before relocating to the Traverse City area with her partner, Nicole Schulte. Peterson brie y worked at Peninsula Cellars on Old Mission Peninsula before making the leap to Leelanau Peninsula. Now, two years in, she says her passion for the Michigan wine industry was “truly set back on re” when she stepped into the Verterra manager position. Below, Peterson shares some of her up north and down south experiences, tips for would-be visitors, and why she passionately believes that wine is for everyone. Q: How did you originally get into the wine industry? I answered an ad for a little winery in Jackson, Michigan, called Sandhill Crane Vineyards to work in the kitchen as a café worker. Every time I would work, I would listen to the people in the tasting room, and just got so intrigued by the wine and all there was to learn, so I started begging to work on ‘that side.’ From there, I just became obsessed with how much there was to learn! Working for a winery that had their own kitchen, I learned a lot about pairing wines, which is so fun. I remember being like 22, trying these dry red wines, thinking, what the heck? Then, when our winemaker and chemist paired them with the right things, it’s like my world just opened up, and it all made sense. Q: You moved from southeast Michigan to the Traverse City area in April 2019. What made you decide to move? What has that been like? I think I learned all I could (at SCV). It’s a small winery, and I had moved up in the company as much as I could. Working in wine, you constantly can keep learning, and that’s all I wanted to do, was to learn more on a bigger scale. And the wineries up here are producing two times or more than SCV does, and growing fruit that can struggle down there. I’m not going to lie: At rst, it was super hard. I missed my regulars so much. Lucky for me, a lot of them have followed me around … And I’ve made so many new regulars in the process. I would say it’s de nitely much much busier up here. I mean, it’s a tourist destination; at times, that can be hard and tiring. But working for Verterra, the clients I see care so much about the wine and want to learn, and that always keeps me going, because I just want to pour great wine and break down the stigma that the wine industry tends to have that you have to be of a certain walk of life to enjoy wine, when there’s something for all of us, no matter where were from. It brings us together.

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Q: As you noted, wine sometimes carries the misperception of being stu y, or as only intended for a certain demographic. What would you want wine newbies to know about the accessibility of wine? How do you think tasting room sta can help make wine feel more approachable to newcomers? I think how and where I was raised plays a lot into how I approach the tasting room. I was the kid that was friends with all the di erent cliques in high school. I never wanted anyone to feel unwelcome. I think this has shaped how I speak and welcome new people into the tasting room. I went to a giant public school in Jackson, Michigan. We had every type of kid you could think of, and I’m so grateful for that experience, because I think it has helped me look back and realize I don’t carry a judgement of someone before I actually get to talk with them. It’s important to realize so many guests are still having their rst wine experience when we have the pleasure to meet them in the tasting room, and I want to welcome them no matter where they’re from or what they do. Putting anyone in a box has never made sense to me. When working at SCV, I had multiple experiences that instantly made me proud, but broke my heart. We would meet all di erent people, and they would con de to us that it was the rst time that they felt welcome, safe and comfortable in the wine world being served by us. Special, yet sad. Wine is for everyone. And if you think you don’t even like wine — well, jump in, we’re going on a journey together. Hopefully we’ll nd something you love, and you’ll learn a few things along the way, too! My biggest advice … would be to always drop your perceptions/expectations at the door, and welcome everyone in with an open mind and heart. We all have so much to learn and take from each other, even in our short experiences in the small amount of time we’re spending during a wine tasting. Keep evolving and growing. Q: In your current position, sometimes you’re at Verterra’s Leland tasting room, and sometimes you’re at The Ridge, their o site tasting room amid the vineyards. What’s it like working at one versus the other? The Leland tasting room is so cute and quaint, especially in the winter. That’s my favorite; you feel like you’re in a Lifetime movie. Leland sees more of our walk in/tourist tra c. Most people walking in during the summer think we’re another shop or have food, and ending up tasting wine … usually loving it and joining the club. It’s the Leland tasting room’s eleventh year, and somehow we still have people who have come to Fishtown their whole life and never known we were hiding right o Main. The Ridge is just jaw-dropping gorgeous. It’s the highest point that far north, so you see the entire bay in front of you while you’re surrounded by our grapes, and Lake Michigan you can see over the parking lot. It’s like you’re in some secret place. The Ridge is usually busy on most Saturdays with weddings, but it gets very intentional tra c. This is only the second season of us doing a “tasting room” up there, so the word isn’t super out about it. It’s where you go to bring a picnic and stay for the day because it’s just so gorgeous and beautiful! Q: What does your typical schedule look like in your current job? I think one of the major things that drew me to working in the wine industry was how many di erent hats you can wear. For Verterra, in the spring, you can nd me bottling wine, or labeling, or at the warehouse for days, packing our giant wine club. I will help harvest as long as I can nd the time in October. I will step in and work weddings, which can be a lot of fun. But typically, as a tasting room manager, I will usually arrive an hour or more before open, which is at noon (and so nice, ha) have my co ee and my quiet time before putting on my game face for the day. If it’s the weekend, I try to mostly do what I

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Q: I know this is hard to answer, but … what’s your favorite Verterra wine? OMG, you would think after 11 years in the wine industry, I would loathe this question, but honestly, for the rst time in my career, my answer is, “Well, I have a favorite in every section of the wine list!” Rosés: Right now the Rosé of Merlot has my heart. Super juicy strawberry — it’s yum. Sparkling: I love our new 2021 Chaos Sparkler. It’s a blend of Pinot Grigio and Pinot Blanc, has a whisper of sweetness, but the acidity on it just makes it pop! White: Dry Riesling, forever and always. My go to! It is so exciting and fun to try them each year, because they’re so di erent and layered with avors, then they just change throughout the season. Red: Pinot Noir, always! Our 2018 is so beautiful; it’s super mocha, caramel, toasted walnut on the nose. Q: What tips would you give people who are visiting tasting rooms for the rst time, or for the rst time post-COVID? My biggest tip would be to call your favorite wineries you’re planning to visit, check in with their protocols, so that you aren’t surprised or upset if things have changed, and to be exible if they have. Most of all, to be kind. So many places in northern Michigan are short sta ed, and maybe things haven’t reverted back to what you’re used to because of this. So I would say be open minded, be exible, and be kind. Q: How have things changed in the business post-COVID? This year so far has felt like back to “normal” pre-COVID, I have seen so many bigger groups, so many friends nally able to get back together and do the trips they used to do to Northern Michigan. It’s exciting. We are a tiny tasting room in Leland. We didn’t have the option to throw up igloos and put people outside, so we always stayed (with) “traditional” wine tasting at the bar. Which really tickled our guests! I mean, when you’re con ned to (table-side) ights most places you go, it’s pretty exciting to go to winery where things are ‘like they used to be.’ We also have seen our (Leelanau Peninsula Wine Trail) events shift a bit, which has been nice — slimming down ticket sales, so it’s not so crazy and congested, and encouraging people to do the month-long events, so you can take your time. Also, encouraging people to use the Leelanau Peninsula wine pass, which is good for a year, so once again you can take your time with it, and you get little perks at each winery!

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call oating: jumping around where needed in the tasting room, supporting my team. Keeping the dishwasher going so we have clean glassware, lling wine orders, guiding tra c, sweeping outside, being wherever I’m needed. If it’s the weekdays, I’m usually on the bar … my favorite place to be with our guests.

Q: Can you share a few of your favorite moments from behind the bar? One of my absolute favorites happened at SCV. It was a dead Sunday and all of a sudden, a 50-person bus pulled in, unexpected … which makes anyone working in the wine industry freak out a little. But anyone that knows me knows I thrive on the chaos. I threw together our back room and did a little pre-selected tasting for the group. They just happened to be the most intimidating female rugby team that had just won their championship game and were celebrating. They made songs with my name every time I came back, made me blush more than I would like to admit, and took hundreds of pictures with me. They made me laugh like crazy. Their excitement was intoxicating. It was so much fun, and I think about them all the time. It went from a sleepy Sunday to one of the most fun days! Another one that happens almost every other weekend that always makes me laugh is getting little notes from Two K. My partner is a tasting room manager there, and both Two K and Verterra are on Leelanau Peninsula, so it’s not unlikely that we both see a lot of the same customers in the day. But she will nd the funniest, most wild groups and tell them to come to Verterra, and write little hand-written notes to the Verterra team saying, “Hi” and “Hope you all are having a good day,” and of course tells the group funny little inside jokes to say. It always makes me smile and laugh on the craziest of days. Q: As you mentioned, your partner, Nicole — who you met while working at SCV — is the tasting room manager at Two K Farms Cidery & Winery. What is it like having a partner who also is in the industry? I don’t think I would ever want to be with someone who didn’t deeply understand the nuances of being a tasting room manager. We both know what it’s like to support a team doing what we do. We help each other problem solve. That level of understanding is just priceless, and I cherish it. I am such a helpless romantic. I love love stories, and romcoms, all of it. When I was working at SCV, I used to tell all my coworkers, “I’m going to meet my person here, I just know it.” Yet, I had no idea it would be her. She started working there and instantly became my closest friend. Falling in love with your best friend is something that we’re both just so lucky to have. Understanding each others’ job is an added blessing.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Cortney Casey is a certified sommelier and co-founder of Michigan By The Bottle, an online community promoting the entire Michigan wine industry. She’s also co-owner of Michigan By The Bottle Tasting Room, tasting rooms operated in partnership with multiple Michigan wineries, located in Shelby Township, Royal Oak and Auburn Hills. Contact her at cort@michiganbythebottle.com.

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THE ITALIAN JOB At the 45th parallel north, Nebbiolo flourishes at Mari Vineyards by Erin Marie Miller

Mari Vineyards

Photo by Two Twisted Trees Photography

ith an ancient heritage reaching back to at least the

For O’Keefe, the challenge of growing the Italian grape in a place

13th century, Nebbiolo has long been regarded by wine lovers

like Michigan is part of its allure, representing an opportunity to

as one of Italy’s esteemed treasures.

test the boundaries of the Old Mission Peninsula and move beyond the region’s perceived limitations.

Grown predominantly in the sandy soil and continental climate of the grape’s viticultural home in the European country’s

“I like to see where people push the envelope a little bit, and

northwest Piedmont region, Nebbiolo’s presence in the U.S. has

that's what we try to do at Mari all the time. Not making things

been spotty, though consistent, since it was introduced

just for the sake of making them, but trying to see if we can get a

stateside by Italian immigrants in 19th century California. Over

little more nuanced and a little more interesting things out of

the century that followed, the prestigious red grape found its

[the region] than has been historical,” O’Keefe says.

way to other parts of the country including Washington, Oregon, Virginia and, more recently, northern Michigan — a

A rough translation

region rarely associated with the Piedmontese native. At Mari Vineyards, Nebbiolo was rst planted in 2007, about two “When people think of northern Michigan, they think that

years before O’Keefe started making wine there; at the time, it

somehow we’re like Fargo, North Dakota, or something like that.

was only a couple of experimental rows. Since then, the grape

We’re not. We’re on the 45th parallel,” says Sean O’Keefe,

has taken on a more prominent role as part of O’Keefe's

winemaker at Mari Vineyards in Traverse City, where Nebbiolo

deliberate focus on growing varieties honoring owner Marty

has ourished for the last 15 years.

Lagina’s Italian heritage — an ambitious endeavor that has been

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in England, where he noticed fruit trees and grapevines growing under similar structures. Covered in semi-opaque

With the right geography and sandy, well-drained soil rich in

plastic sheets with built-in irrigation, the system helps boost

calcium and crushed limestone — conditions similar to the

the growing temperature of the vines underneath while

regions of Italy from which Nebbiolo hails — northern

allowing for the free ow of air, producing avor qualities

Michigan has proven to be a supportive environment for the

similar to European grapes grown in more temperate regions.

nicky grape. Still, O’Keefe acknowledges growing conditions in Traverse City di er from regions like Piedmont in important

In addition to o ering more control over temperature, the

ways.

semi-opaque plastic coverings on the Nella Serra are thought to mimic the di used sunlight created by the nebia (the thick

“When I mention I’m growing Nebbiolo in northern Michigan,

fog from which Nebbiolo derives its name) that permeates

people just do a double-take, because Nebbiolo is one of the

the regions of Italy where the grape is traditionally grown.

grapes that takes the longest time to ripen,” O’Keefe says. “We actually think that’s a positive thing, because the light’s Because of the grape’s early November harvest, colder

not just hitting [the vines] in one spot. It’s being bounced

temperatures in late fall can lead to problems for Nebbiolo. To

around and it’s hitting all the surfaces of the leaves,” O’Keefe

mitigate those risks, a unique growing system was installed at

says. Working with nature Around six acres of reds (roughly 6% of the vineyard's total acreage) are grown under the hoop houses at Mari Vineyards, including Nebbiolo. Although the system works “on a limited scale,” O’Keefe acknowledges that some wine growers might have reservations about growing the grape under controlled conditions. “The one question that wine geeks would typically raise is

Photo by Two Twisted Trees Photography Mari Vineyards utilizing hoop houses (a form of shelter similar to a tunnel greenhouse) designed to emulate the conditions of the grape’s native home. “Terroir are the factors that you cannot easily change and that you have to come to some kind of terms with. Sometimes they’re not good or bad — they’re just what’s there,” O’Keefe says, explaining that the hoop houses are a way of working around northern Michigan’s natural limitations.

that it’s unnatural — if you can’t grow it normally, why grow it at all? Because that’s a very European way of looking at things, and I have a lot of sympathy in that direction,” O’Keefe says. No stranger to European winemaking philosophies, O’Keefe grew up helping at Chateau Grand Traverse, the family business he co-owns, before studying winemaking formally at Hochschule Geisenheim University in Germany. Drawing on those experiences, he points out that growers in Europe spent centuries developing methods for working around environmental challenges. While other varieties might be a

Dubbed Nella Serra (Italian for “in the greenhouse”), the hoop

more natural t for northern Michigan, O’Keefe stands by the

houses are the result of observations Lagina made while living

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largely successful.

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hoop houses when it comes to grapes that might not thrive under traditional growing conditions. “We’re going to have really good years. We’re going to have really hot years, and we’ll have some cool years — and we need to able to take some of the edge o those ups and downs by being crafty,” O’Keefe says. Despite those tricks, like his European counterparts, O’Keefe remains dedicated to growing his wine grapes naturally as often as possible, reserving the hoop houses only for more unique varieties like Nebbiolo. “We don't grow anything that we can grow traditionally in these hoop houses,” O’Keefe says. Trusting the process Beyond viticulture, O’Keefe’s winemaking process has also been in uenced by Europe. On a recent trip to Piedmont, he learned to adjust Nebbiolo’s fermentation temperatures after observing winemakers there using a technique to extract color and tannins early in the process. “I saw they were doing some things where they were getting very sophisticated,” O’Keefe says, explaining that he recently adopted the technique of raising the temperature of the grapes for around eight hours before letting the must cool down and ferment for several more weeks. O’Keefe also moves the wine into larger barrels during the aging process. “Nebbiolo needs time. The interesting thing with Nebbiolo is that it’s probably more like Pinot noir than it’s like Cabernet Sauvignon. It doesn’t have a lot of natural color, but it has a lot of aromatics and lots of tannins and acid — things that aren’t normally associated with Bordeaux reds or Burgundy reds. So they really need a long time aging in older neutral barrels,” O’Keefe says, adding that he typically waits three to four years to allow time for the wine to mature before bottling it. In addition to a blend of Malbec, Nebbiolo, and Syrah called Asa Nisi Masa, O’Keefe has also produced blends for Mari Vineyards featuring Nebbiolo, Schioppettino and Cabernet Sauvignon in the past (both grapes are also grown under the hoop houses). The winery’s Ultima Thule, which is currently majority Nebbiolo, will eventually be produced entirely from the grape. For O’Keefe, the secret ingredient when it comes to making a good wine from Nebbiolo lies in the process of allowing the grape’s natural qualities to shine on their own — advice other winemakers can bene t from. “All those things that people fuss about with Pinot Noir or other [wines] are pretty absent with Nebbiolo. The idea is, the wine has enough acid, tannins and avor to balance itself. It doesn’t need any new wood or over-tinkering by the winemaker. You just have to trust it, you know, and that’s kind of where people get in trouble sometimes,” O’Keefe says.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Erin Marie Miller is a freelance journalist based in Metro Detroit. A lover of all things independent, she has written about small businesses, restaurants, nonprofits, the arts and more for publications in Michigan and California Since 2014.

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EXTENDED MACERATION

by Jack Costa

It’s like burnt marshmallows; some people love them, others hate them. The topic of extended maceration will undoubtedly elicit a similar array of responses among wine professionals; some good, some not so good. Regardless of one’s opinion on the matter, the concept of extended maceration remains somewhat convoluted and at times mysterious, even among industry professionals. So, the rst question one must ask is, what is extended maceration? At its most basic level, extended maceration describes the winemaking process of allowing recently fermented red wine to soak on the grape skins (maceration) for an extended period of time. This extended time period might range from 2 weeks to 6 months, or sometimes even longer. When this technique is used with white wines it can create amber or orange wines. For the sake of this article, however, extended maceration will be discussed solely in the context of red winemaking. Some might consider winemakers who experiment with such unconventional wine-making techniques to be fringe, others would call them innovators, and still, others might call them crazy. Ultimately, winemaking, like any other industry, is looking to develop new and unique styles of products that will di erentiate

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them from their competitors. In recent years, one need look no further than concrete egg fermenters and biodynamic winemaking to see this force for innovation at work. Why Extended Maceration? One might think having wine in prolonged contact with grape skins would signi cantly increase a wine’s tannin levels. One would be correct. One might also be inclined to think extended maceration would signi cantly increase the wine’s color intensity, giving wines much deeper shades and hues. In fact, while there is truth to this, the process has been shown (in extreme instances) to be counterintuitive. One study of a 6-month extended maceration of Pinot Noir increased the relative tannin concentration 13 times that of the control group but found the extended maceration process to actually diminish the wine's color. Interestingly, the process was repeated with Zinfandel grapes, but found the extraction of tannin levels to be signi cantly less. This seems to indicate that not every grape variety will react similarly to the extended maceration process. Furthermore, it was found that even after the wines were bottled for several months, the extended maceration replicates continued to experience a signi cant decrease in color compared with the study’s control group. Obviously, there are exceptions. Extended maceration can increase color, but only to a certain point before it begins to taper o and decrease. So why, in some instances, does an extended maceration decrease a wine's color while also increasing astringency? As Emile Peynaud points out in his book ``Knowing and Making Wine``with prolonged pomace contact, the color of the wine may diminish because the anthocyanins (color) settle on the seeds, the skins, the tannins, and eventually on the stems, and color them. The yeasts absorb the anthocyanins and drag them down into the lees.” While this may explain why a wine’s color diminished with extended maceration times, (the color intensity depends on how long the process lasts) what about the increased astringency? The answer to this question remains more straightforward. It is commonly known that a typical red wine's perceived astringency is derived from tannins found in the grape skins. In a similar way, it is thought that extended maceration’s increased astringency comes not only from the grape skins but also from the grape seed tannins. Such tannins generally add a tighter texture to wines, even adding bitterness the longer the grape skins macerate. To better understand the extended maceration process, one might compare it to whole cluster fermentation. The whole cluster technique involves the inclusion of grape stems in the fermentation process (rather than destemming and allowing the grapes to ferment by themselves). Whole cluster ferments generally

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the stems. The stems also lend additional tannin to the wine, just as extended maceration wines receive more tannin from the grape seeds. In addition to the wine’s color and tannin levels, sensory and avor components of whole cluster and extended maceration wines can also be signi cantly a ected. The Taste: So, what do extended maceration wines taste like? Various studies have shown the duration of extended maceration to have signi cant e ects on a wine's avor. In one study, a 30-day extended maceration of Merlot grapes saw a decrease in its pepper avor, but an increase in fruity aromas. However, it was also found, in some instances, that macerations greater than 30 days began to result in decreases in fruit aromas, sometimes even adding a perceived oxidized note. (The presence of oxidation might result from a lack of inert gas protecting the skins from oxygen over time). Ben Little, author of Pignolo: Cultivating the Invisible, reported that one grower in Northern Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia region is using the rare grape Pignolo, to conduct extended macerations of 9 months in amphora resulting in a juicy, lively and silky, fruit driven wine. Also in Italy, Cantina Bartolo Mascarello, uses extended maceration periods of between 30-50 days with Nebbiolo grapes. Extended maceration is not just being developed with old world wines. Intrinsic wines of Washington state’s Château Saint Michelle are performing extended maceration for periods of 9 months! While considered outrageous by some, this rather extreme example of extended maceration has managed to captivate the curiosity of both critics and supporters alike. Only time will tell if extended maceration is destined to go the way of New Coke or if it can live up to the claims that it creates unique wines with exciting new textures and avors. It is safe to say the industry should not completely discount the potential usefulness of this unique approach to winemaking, but rather examine it with careful consideration and a generous amount of caution when crafting premium world class wines.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Often asked if he’s even old enough to drink, Jack is a writer, educator, and professional wine judge. The Oregon native studied winemaking under mentor Stephen Reustle and occasionally contributes to the award winning blog Wine Folly.

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result in wines with a decreased color intensity due to colors being absorbed by

GRAPE SCOUTING REPORT by Anna Maria Giambanco DiPietro

t’s a tale of two vintages for 2020.

According to the Michigan State University Grape Scouting Report, which measures degree

growing days between March 1 and Aug. 3, northwest Michigan is well below the 5-year average for this time of year, while southwest Michigan is slightly above. In fact, unless the situation improves dramatically in the northwest, the area could be looking at ripening conditions similar to 2019, one of the worst vintages since 2014: MW Mich. (Base 50F) Mar. 1-Aug. 9, Traverse City Station 2022 — 1328 NW avg

2018 — 1746

2015 — 1420

2020 — 1529

2017 — 1482

5-yr avg — 1537

2019 — 1358

2016 — 1680

LEGACY PROPERTY ON BEAUTIFUL DUCK LAKE!

te iva p r Lake o f ck ling u rol et f e n D of r i d g e 4 0 e o cres d ate t e priv ge a 3 , 7 tag a r n 330 e l e v d a is la a s fro h n h h wi t o d s , i l s a d. T c e l r 3 n a w o d , t r d p o p a r i l y fo b e lan ng fe s i z e d fam ould i o n i t c s pr a t e the nd l o c a for. a g e s t n in ons a y n hi i e be erat t - a w earc n ge s e n g t ee t h a 've b u Ga yo sta ted, pri te 1,9 l an vat 3 e pre 0-ac d. D , an u m iere re (3 ck L d ab Gr a a u 20 nd T , all- -squa ke i ts s po min rav r e-m s a Ask e r u t il ing tes t rse C s la ke e) o $4, o Tr in 997 av unty ,50 erse ju 0. Cit st y.

Debra J. Hall Call or Text: 231-590-0936 521 Randolph St., Traverse City, MI

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MWC UPDATE

Michigan Wine Collaborative Targets New Customer Bases By Emily Dockery

he Michigan Wine Collaborative (MWC) is the non-

Harvest Kick O Tasting

pro t voice of the Michigan wine industry. Run, driven,

When: September 8, 2022

and funded by member wineries, growers, educators,

Where: House of Pure Vin

vendors, suppliers, a liates, and more, all of our member dues go back into projects aimed at propelling the

Consumers are encouraged to join Michigan Wine

Michigan wine industry. The Michigan Wine Collaborative

Collaborative and participating wineries for a tasting and

is committed to the expansion of the Michigan wine

mingle event at House of Pure Vin on September 8th. This

industry by reaching new markets, supporting education,

event will feature tastings of Michigan wine from our member

research, and workforce development, and making sure

wineries which will be available for purchase at House of Pure

the world knows that Michigan wine is for everyone. In

Vin. We will also be o ering light bites and exhilarating

pursuit of those goals the MWC has been working hard to

conversations with winemakers, growers, and representatives

plan events in one of the most in uential and pro table

from Michigan wineries. Mark your calendars for this

markets in the state, Detroit. MWC has been focusing on

educational and tasty event. Registration information will be

extending Michigan wine country to the Detroit and

available beginning in August. Follow Michigan Wine

metro Detroit areas to encourage growth in new

Collaborative and House of Pure Vin on social media to stay

consumer bases to cultivate loyal Michigan wine lovers. In

connected and updated on this event.

pursuit of that mission we are excited to announce these upcoming events in the city of Detroit.

Wine and Find in the City When: January 2023

HOUR Food & Wine Show

Where: Detroit Vineyards

When: August 12-14, 2022 Where: Huntington Place

Members of the trade will be invited to join Michigan Wine Collaborative and member wineries at Detroit Vineyards on

MWC has sponsored an unlimited booth space for our

September 7th to network, connect,taste and nd wines for

members to have their wines poured at this event to

their 2023 wine lists, sets, and purchasing decisions. This event

continue the elevation of consumers’ perception of

will be essential for retail, restaurant, hospitality, and wholesale

Michigan wine. Taste your way through the weekend at

buyers to attend to become acquainted with current vintages,

this 3-day culinary extravaganza showcasing ne wines,

new and established wineries, and to learn about the state of

craft beers, specialty cocktails and gourmet bites from the

the Michigan wine industry, access to winery information

best wineries, breweries, distilleries, restaurants and food

including information on varietals, winemaking styles and

purveyors. MWC member wineries participating in this

methods, terroir, and allocations as well as marketing e orts of

event include: Two K Farms, Burgdorf’s Winery, Soul

the Michigan Wine Collaborative and tips for successful

Squeeze Cellars, Cherry Creek Cellars, Detroit Vineyards,

support and sales of local wines to guests. Join us to taste

Continued on next page

ffi

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some premium Michigan wines, make some new industry

management, soil composition and health, grape chemistry

friends, and indulge in light bites as the industry releases their

and analysis, seasonal overviews of what happens in the

new vintages!

vineyard all year long, and more. If you are interested in volunteering or getting youth involved in the 4-H Viticulture

Focusing these and future events in the city of Detroit is also a

Club please reach out to Lisa Kelley with Wayne County 4-H at

part of MWC’s Inclusion and Expansion Committee e orts to

lkelley@msu.edu or Dixie Sandborn for other regions and

expand Michigan wine to historically excluded populations

additional information at dixie@msu.edu.

and especially Michigan residents of color in addition to encouraging consideration of careers in wine including the

If you are interested in joining the Michigan Wine Collaborative

areas of enology, viticulture, retail, restaurant, and hospitality.

and getting involved with our Inclusion and Expansion e orts

This committee is currently being chaired by Chuck Jackson of

visit mwc.wildapricot.org or email us at

House of Pure Vin located on Woodward Ave. in Downtown

info@michiganwinecollaborative.com.

Detroit. “This year I was introduced to the concept of Universal Access. When everyone is included, everyone bene ts. Similar to a "rising tide lifts all boats," we need to make sure that we have everyone's boat in the water.” says Chuck Jackson. Visit him at House of Pure Vin to nd premium Michigan wines, discuss the Inclusion and Expansion committee e orts and projects, and enjoy an all around exhilarating wine experience in the city. MWC is committed to spreading the word that Michigan wine is for everyone and now is the time to get involved in an ever

ABOUT THE AUTHOR

expanding industry full of opportunities and potential for in nite success. To work towards this goal we are in the constant process of establishing and maintaining a recruitment pipeline beginning with youth who are interested

Emily Dockery is the Executive Director of the Michigan Wine Collaborative,

in agriculture and extending to adults interested in working in the wine and grape industries. Opportunities are being created for Wayne residents to participate in the MWC Talent Pipeline by joining the nation’s very rst 4-H Viticulture Club launching with Wayne County 4H and spreading throughout the entire state. MWC is partnering with Pingree Farms and Detroit Vineyards to provide educational vineyard spaces within the city of Detroit. There is currently a library of video curriculum for review on the MWC YouTube page which will give an overview of topics covered in this 4-H Club. These topics include canopy

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http: / /michiganwinecollaborative.com/. She has extensive experience in the retail wine sales industry and is a graduate of the Lake Michigan College enology and viticulture program. In addition, she is Inclusion and Expansion Committee Co-Chair for the MWC.

Between the Vines Ellen Landis, CS, CSW

Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery 2021 Reserve Gewürztraminer | Old Mission Peninsula Expressive citrus blossom scents drive you into the glass. Summer bliss melon, lychee, mandarin orange, hints of ginger snaps, and lemongrass engage the palate. A thread of minerality adds further dimension, and this gem remains bright and lively while heading to an unforgettable finish. SRP: $26 | Food pairing: Turkey wild rice soup | www.brysestate.com

Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery 2021 Reserve Riesling | Old Mission Peninsula Alluring on the nose, with notes of summer peaches and lime zest filling the senses. The palate unveils layers of succulent white peaches, nectarines, minerally notes, lemon verbena, and a subtle suggestion of sea salt wrapped around a core of brisk acidity, and the lingering finish is bright and energetic. SRP: $22 | Food pairing: Scallop avocado ceviche | www.brysestate.com

Brys Estate Vineyard & Winery 2020 Reserve Merlot | Old Mission Peninsula Warm berry pie and spice aromas rise from the glass. Sumptuous layers of blackberries, cocoa-dusted blueberries, hints of tobacco, dried herbs, and underlying oak (from 14 months French oak aging) sail effortlessly across the palate. Rich and velvety with balancing acidity and refined tannins, and the heavenly finish is persistent. SRP: $50 | Food pairing: Wine braised lamb shanks | www.brysestate.com

Aurora Cellars NV “Leora” | Leelanau Peninsula An energizing nose of fresh squeezed lemon and lime puts you in a celebratory mood with this sparkling Pinot Grigio. Bright citrus notes meld with flavors of flaky apple pastry, lemongrass, and a dash of spice. A delicate stream of bubbles and bracing acidity keep it balanced and lively through the perky finish. SRP: $26 | Food pairing: Smoked salmon salad | www.auroracellars.com

Aurora Cellars 2017 Cabernet Franc | Leelanau Peninsula Lovely floral and earthy notes on the nose make way for dark fruit at the core. Black plums, earthiness, black raspberries, a thread of graphite, spiced chocolate, and a touch of herbs tantalize the palate. Smoothly textured with well-integrated tannins, and the nice level of acidity balances the bold fruit through the long finish. SRP: $50 | Food pairing: Veal scallopini | www.auroracellars.com

Aurora Cellars 2020 Dry Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula Aroma of citrus blossom and slate rise from the glass. Sleek and vivacious, it hits all marks of a dry Riesling. Racy acids frame this delightfully dry wine as notes of green apple, stone fruit, minerality, and a striking burst of fresh squeezed lime enliven the palate from first sip through the persistent finish. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Crab Louie salad | www.auroracellars.com

Chateau Chantal 2020 Johnson Vineyard Vin Gris | Old Mission Peninsula This remarkable Rosé of Pinot Noir shines with its energetic, fruity characteristics. The citrusy, summer fruit aroma opens the door to a palate brimming with flavors of fresh sliced watermelon, juicy Rainier cherries and mandarin oranges. Beautifully balanced with crisp acidity and the finish is ever so vibrant. SRP: $27 Food pairing: Thyme roasted chicken | www.chateauchantal.com

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Continued on next page

Bel Lago Vineyard & Winery 2020 Pinot Grigio | Leelanau Peninsula Aromas of white freesia flowers and citrusy notes beckon you to bring that glass to your lips. Lively and expressive on the palate as focused flavors of fresh nectarines, green apples, Key lime, minerality, and a pinch of herbs interlace. Tingling acidity keeps it spirited, and the finish holds your attention with its brightness and verve. SRP: $17 | Food pairing: Shrimp cucumber pita pockets | www.bellago.com

St. Julian Winery Braganini “The Reserve Collection” 2021 Mountain Road Rosé |LMS* A brilliant medium pink hue greets the eye with this zippy Rosé, composed of Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. The engaging aromatic leads to a fruit driven mouthful of cassis, Elephant Heart plums, red currants, and a thread of blood orange. Well balanced and harmonious through the satisfying finish. SRP: $16.99 | Food pairing: Feta spinach tartlets | www.stjulian.com

St. Julian Winery Braganini “Winemaker’s Series” 2020 Red Blend Reserve CAP Drain #1 |LMS The alluring savory aroma of this blend of 34% Cab Franc, 33% Cab Sauvignon and 23% Merlot fully engages the senses. Multilayered, it unveils cassis, blackberries, dark plums, pencil shavings, earthiness, toasty oak spices, tobacco leaf, and chocolate drizzled blueberries as it heads to a finish that seems endless. SRP: $27.99 | Food pairing: Grilled lamb kabobs | www.stjulian.com

St. Julian Winery Braganini “Winemaker’s Series” 2020 Red Blend Reserve CAP Drain #2 |LMS This deeply fruited blend of 50% Merlot, 25% Blaufränkisch and 25% Crimson Cabernet (cross of Cab Sauv and Norton) is delectable. It’s highly aromatic and remains persuasive on the palate with layers of black raspberries, bramble berries, cocoa, spiced blueberry jam, and a pop of black pepper through the lingering finish. SRP: $27.99 | Food pairing: Butter basted rib-eye steak | www.stjulian.com

Ciccone Vineyard & Winery 2020 Tramonto Red | Leelanau Peninsula This delectable red blend composed of 35% Dolcetto, 25% Marechal Foch, 22% De Chaunac, 6% Pinot Noir, 6% Baca Noir and 6% Frontenac opens with a fragrant aroma of a bowlful of fresh picked berries. On the palate, layers of red-fleshed plums, tayberries, spiced-tinged raspberry jam, and hints of shaved chocolate interlace, and head to a lingering finish. SRP: $30 | Food pairing: Sausage caponata | www.cicconevineyard.com

Blustone Vineyards 2020 Pinot Gris | Leelanau Peninsula Here is an enticing example of Pinot Gris. The nose of a delicate white floral bouquet drives you into the glass. There you’ll find a beautifully textured, ideally balanced white wine awakening the palate. Notes of poached pears, sweet Meyer lemon, and a subtle dash of herbs meld in harmony, and the finish shows off a hint of tropical fruit. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Potato/celery root gratin | www.blustonevineyards.com *Lake Michigan Shore

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/ Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com

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◀ Wine Glass Markers Let guests get creative with non-toxic, temporary markers in black, silver and gold. Fast-drying markers can be used to identify a glass with a name or to add a whimsical illustration or phrase. Markers can also be used on ceramic plates and mugs and are ideal for labeling wine and cheese at tastings. Available at : https://tinyurl.com/4cddcpfz | MSRP: $12

Wine All the Time

◀

Does the thought of having to buy wine for a dinner party stress you out? Is your go-to strategy to pick the bottle with the coolest label? In this utterly accessible yet comprehensive guide to wine, Ross will walk you through the ins and outs of wine culture. Available at https:// tinyurl.com/mrycy7rb | MSRP: $15.19

◀ Wine Doormat Now here's a welcome mat that says everything. Give your best friend (and all of their houseguests) a good laugh with this cheeky 'Hope You Brought Wine' doormat. The accent rug is woven from natural coir with PVC backing, so it will trap dirt and stay put on their front porch. Available at https://tinyurl.com/ y5 56n2 | MSRP: $13

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521 Randolph St., Traverse City, MI

MAGAZINE SPACE (per issue)

4 COLOR Full Page

$500

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$250

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$150

Full page XX

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Michigan Uncorked Fall 2022

Articles inside

COLLEEN PETERSON

MWC UPDATE

BETWEEN THE VINES

THE ITALIAN JOB

EXTENDED MACERATION

GRAPE SCOUTING REPORT