MU Spring 2022

michigan

Uncorked

VOL. 4 NO. 1 SPRING 2022

• SIP — SUSTAINABILITY IN PRACTICE • DAVE BOS

CONTENTS

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4 SIP — SUSTAINABILITY IN PRACTICE As of 2017, Michigan was the only state outside of California to have a SIP-certified winery. Now there are two, as sustainability in practice becomes paramount in the age of climate change.

8 DAVE BOS 4

The Dave Bos biodynamic approach to grape growing is in keeping with a transition to more holistic and ecological approaches to farming and food worldwide.

11 COOL CLIMATE TEMPRANILLO The same exact grape grown in different climates can produce a wildly different wine. And, with climate change affecting growing conditions in Michigan and elsewhere, winegrowers may soon be planting new grapes.

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13 WINE YEAST 101 It’s not just about the alcohol. Wine yeast has chemical compounds that add different kinds of flavor profiles depending on the type of yeast.

16 THE EFFICIENT VINEYARD A nationwide program funded by the USDA-NIFA-Specialty Crop Research Initiative will help grape growers better manage their vineyards.

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19 BETWEEN THE VINES Sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW shares her latest tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.

Cover: Andy Fles, vineyard manager of Shady Lane Cellars.

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MESSAGE

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FROM THE EDITOR More wine, less whine — Anon.

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aterFire Vineyards in Kewadin, Mich. holds the distinction of being the state’s rst SIP-certi ed vineyard. A designation originated in California, it stands for Sustainability in Practice, and ensures that the vineyard meets high standards for economic viability, environmental stewardship and social equity. Madeleine Vedel explores the SIP scene here and explains the bene ts to our climate.

Sharon Flesher brings to light another form of biodynamic grape growing

practiced by Dave Bos, a native Michiganian based in Elk Rapids who has mad respect from his winemaking days in Cali.

In Napa, Bos helped convert Grgich Hills Estate to biodynamic. Anna Maria Giambanco DiPietro talks about cool climate wines and the advantages that climate change may o er for states like Michigan. In particular, she gives a shout out to Tempranillo.

Tempranillo is already in a few spots in Michigan. How will it fare? Jack Costa, who is a big fan of yeast, explains that this amazing single-celled fungus does more than just help wine ferment. It can produce a wide array of bene cial in uences and e ects.

Yours truly delves into the mysteries of the E cient Vineyard. Scientists have discovered a way to collect a wide variety of data, map it and archive it in real time for winegrowers, all available on a free web-based tool. And last, but never least, our very own inhouse sommelier Ellen Landis, CS, CSW provides her tasting notes on some of her favorite Michigan wines.

Cheers,

Editor-in-Chief Jim Rink • Associate Editor Kim Schneider • Associate Editor Greg Tasker Executive Secretary Karen Koenig-Rink • Contributing Writers Jack Costa, Anna Maria Giambanco DiPietro, Sharon Flesher, Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, Madeleine Vedel, Jim Rink michiganUncorked

Vol. 4 No.1 Spring 2022

Copyright © 2022 by michiganUncorked, LLC Reproduction or use of the editorial or pictorial content without written permission is prohibited. Editorial Office, Jim Rink P.O. Box 121, Lake Leelanau, MI 49653, editor@michiganuncorked.com Unsolicited manuscripts or other information will not be returned unless accompanied by return postage. Website: www.michiganuncorked.com

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Kasey Wierzba, winemaker at Shady Lane Cellars

SIP

by Madeleine Vedel

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estled between Torch Lake and Lake Michigan, in the township

of Kewadin, Michigan, WaterFire Vineyards is a destination for wine lovers, and the ecology minded. Outside of the three nearest wine trails and two nearby AVAs, Chantal Lefebvre, winery owner, manager and chief wino, has carved out a niche of her own where she grows nine acres of white vinifera for her estate-grown wines. Passionate in her convictions, she has combined her education in environmental science and her love of all things wine.

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Shady Lane

Chantal and her husband Michael Newman purchased this former 26-acre cherry farm in 2008, already convinced – after only a year in the wine industry – that she wanted to farm and make her own wine, and to do so in a sustainable manner, respectful of the environment, doing her part to improve this corner of the world, and perhaps more widely. After much research, she landed on SIP, Sustainability in Practice certi cation based out of Atascadero, California. At the time, SIP was a California-based and California-focused program with members located within the Western state’s borders. Chantal changed that.

She reviewed the focus of this viticulture speci c program, its three Es: economic viability, environmental stewardship and social equity, all of which aligned with her personal values. She then investigated the numerous requirements for certi cation: fourteen chapters with over 200 elements that include both absolutes, and a point system that allows for measurable improvement over time. These include: Vineyard Conservation and Enhancement of Biological Diversity, Vineyard Acquisition, Establishment and Management, Winery Facility Establishment and Management, Vineyard Soil Conservation and Surface Water Quality, Water Conservation and Quality, Energy Conservation and E ciency, Pollution and Waste Purchasing, Recycling and Waste Reduction, Social Equity, Pest Management, Grape Sourcing and Fruit Quality, Continuing Education, Business Management, Year End Water and Nitrogen Use Reports.

Chantal dove in, relishing her conversations with Beth Vukmanic, Executive Director at SIP. They discussed the terroir of Northern Michigan’s fresh coast, that Chantal would not be irrigating (as her California colleagues must do), that her worries tended to focus more on invasive insects such as the rose chafers, not on forest res and droughts, and much more: “I wanted to focus on nature friendly practices, to consider air quality, water conservation and bio-diversity. We are a no-till operation. We don’t stir up the soil in any way (which would release carbon into the atmosphere). We maintain plant cover.

We sequester carbon. Our little tiny farm plays its role in reversing climate change. If we could get enough farms to do this, we could have a big impact as farmers in reversing climate change.”

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Leaving elds fallow, planting native species to create corridors for local insects, birds and more (though hoping the deer will opt to detour around the property); waiting to mow till the ground nesting birds have edged and departed; measuring energy use (and the quantity of diesel expended each time the tractor and/or sprayer takes a pass through the rows) and investing in alternative energy sources such as solar and wind; o ering competitive wages and continued education opportunities to her employees. These are all either happening or in the works at WaterFire.

FIRST SIP-CERTIFIED IN MICHIGAN In 2017, WaterFire became the rst SIP-certi ed winery outside of California, and de facto, the only one in Michigan. Five years into it, Chantal is content with her choice of SIP certi cation over USDA Organic or Certi ed Naturally Grown. As of 2020, her colleagues at Shady Lane Cellars in Leelanau County have followed suit. Andy Fles, vineyard manager and Kasey Wierzba, vintner, learned of SIP through a conversation with Chantal and found it t their values, providing a path towards improved vineyard management, as well as a testament to beliefs and actions they could stamp on their wine label.

Andy and Kasey, both graduates of Michigan State University Agricultural and Viticulture studies, with stints on the University’s sustainable farm, arrived at Shady Lane in 2013. She spent the intervening years honing her wine making skills in California, he on Old Mission Peninsula. Upon their meeting they immediately felt an a nity in their values and goals:

“One huge thing we had in common as we began to work together and collaborate, with him [Andy] stewarding the vines and my making the wine, was a parallel desire for organics, for working for the natural world around us, borrowing from and collaborating with Mother Nature.” Kasey says.

With 65, and soon 70 acres planted in vineyards on the 150 acre farm, they had a relatively large (for Michigan) property to manage. A rst step was compost teas, using compost to build and enrich the soil beneath the vines as a foundation to growing healthier plants and better fruit. Spraying this microbe rich tea on the vines supports the plants’ defense mechanisms, and encourages them to develop their own tolerance of and ability to ght disease.

Kasey Wierzba

As Chantal does at WaterFire, so too is Andy working to enrich the habitat for local vertebrates, tending insectary plots of native grasses and owers to provide shelter and homes for bees, other pollinators and bene cial insects such as dragon ies, lace wings, and butter ies. “When you create such an open space with native plants and diversity, they show up.” says Kasey.

Caring for the people who work at the winery falls squarely inside the SIP directives as well. Though many wineries nd it di cult to employ their vineyard sta all year long, they can communicate with neighboring fruit farms, cherry growers and apple orchards, where skilled agricultural workers to prune and harvest are needed. With a handful of farms joining forces to employ them, there is su cient work to permit living locally and enrolling kids in the local schools.

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A last element that rendered this choice more feasible, was connecting with former Leelanau Peninsula organic winery owner Stan Silverman (based in Northport). Already a USDA Organic certi er, he got SIP certi ed to review their practices, documentation , and to walk the property, observing and testifying to their adherence to the SIP standards. Stan getting on board has saved both wineries the cost of ying out a specialist from California.

And the wines? Does it really make a di erence in the quality of the wines? Is it worth all the e ort? All the paper work and the third party certi cation? Make that an a rmative.

I am not alone in being impressed with the quality of WaterFire’s Estate wines (made by noted wine maker Bryan Ulrich of Left Foot Charley, mentor and former boss of Chantal from 2008-2011). Proudly served in the best local establishments including Traverse City’s The Cooks’ House and Trattoria Stella, Chantal’s Grüner Veltliner shines with bright notes of tart green apples, Meyer lemon, honeydew melon and a surprisingly creamy mouth feel; as you savor the glass, second notes of peach and vanilla emerge in this Austrian inspired wine. Though there was some frost damage last spring, her yield in 2021 was higher than in 2020, due to the longer growing season. So do come to taste her Grüner, Dry Riesling (a favorite in a crowded eld) and her Michigan grown, bubbly Brut Cuvée Blanc. And do make the trek to her beautiful tasting room, opened in 2017. While there, take a walk around the property and take in the beauty and fresh scents of land well-managed. FYI, your dog is welcome too.

At Shady Lane Cellars, where Kasey makes one of my favorite Cabernet Francs in all of Leelanau Peninsula (though not every year), judge for yourself how healthy and rich soil comes through in the fruit, before or after a ski amidst the vines. Discussing the Cellars’ wines’ evolution since putting these practices into place, Kasey says she nds: “There’s a good balance where the vine puts energy into the fruit maturation and into the canopy. Creating a diverse, sustainable soil as the foundation helps to set that path. We see a lot more consistency in quality, even year to year, even with the variability of weather from season to season. It’s showing up in the quality of the avors that come through. We had a lot of rain this past year, and I was surprised by the avors that came out of the vineyard, even with all that water. Sure some of our fruit is noticeably lower in brix, but we’re seeing such great aromatics coming from the fruit – I attribute that to our farming practices.”

Michigan Organic and SIP Certi er Stan Silverman summarizes, “SIP covers broader issues than organic: farm, community, systems, water management, workforce training, insurance for your workforce. It has a communal interest focus rather than just crop growing.”

Now that these two award-winning wineries have tested the waters, may others follow behind.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Madeleine Vedel was introduced to the world of wine by her parents, who had a small, but prized wine cellar. While married to a French chef in Provence, she ran food and wine tours for nearly 20 years. She is currently based in Mancelona, honing her cheese, chocolate and pastry skills and happily consuming both local and international wines within her budget.

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by Sharon Flesher

Dave Bos About 20 years ago, Dave Bos was fresh out of college and curious about wine, so he moved to Traverse City, where he worked for a couple of years harvesting grapes and bartending. Then, like many a pioneer, Dave Bos heeded the call to go west, a journey that gained him a wife and two children in addition to honing his skills in viticulture and wine-making at some of the most prestigious estates in Napa Valley. He started his own wine label there in 2010, purchasing grapes from growers in his consulting business and releasing a small portfolio of wines that garnered glowing reviews in the crowded Napa scene.

When the young family wanted to expand and plant their own deep roots, it was California girl Jackie who suggested Dave’s native Michigan, where Bos is now pioneering biodynamic farming and transitioning his Napa-born BOS wine label to a Michigan-centric brand based in Elk Rapids.

Despite producing fewer than 1,000 cases of wine in Michigan, having none of his own vineyards in production, and opening a tasting room not on any wine tour trail, Bos is creating a big buzz. With his a able personality and talent for networking, he's spread tendrils to vineyards, wineries and retailers in the region, where his in uence may be growing faster than his own label.

“He has done so much for our wine community up here, everything from consulting on vineyards on both peninsulas and sharing his biodynamic farming experience and passion, to connecting people for local collaborations, and bringing together people for fun experiences,” says Alaina Leech, co-owner of Traverse City Lake District Wine Co., which held a soldout tasting event for BOS wines in November, the rst (and as of January, only) winemaker to get a solo event at the shop since the pandemic began. “He’s one of the most charismatic people I’ve ever met. We’re all so lucky that he and Jackie have landed here.”

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His ambition? Simple. “I want to make world class wine and change farming,” he says. “I want people to come up here and say this is the greenest spot in the midwest.”

Bos is an advocate of biodynamic agriculture, a holistic and ecological approach to farming and food inspired by the work of early 20th-century Austrian philosopher and scientist Rudolf Steiner. Biodynamic vineyards have been increasing in popularity worldwide, particularly in France, where some well-known estates employ its methods. In Napa, Bos helped convert Grgich Hills Estate to biodynamic, which led to consulting gigs at other California wineries interested in doing the same. In Michigan, he’s bringing biodynamic methods to Mari Vineyards on Old Mission Peninsula, where he serves as vineyard manager.

Bos says he’s seeing increased interest in organic and biodynamic methods of farming, with many vineyards starting small, usually with composting.

“Everyone is transitioning in that direction,” he says. “Farmers need to be innovating at all times, even more so now because of climate change.”

Like organic agriculture, biodynamic farming eschews chemicals, but it includes esoteric practices related to astrological and lunar cycles. While it certainly has its detractors, those who favor the methods point to the results.

“It brings health, quality, and vitality to the farm system,” says Bos. “I’ve seen sick vineyards Rudolf Steiner

become healthier, going from sickly vines to making world class wines.”

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Bos is making his Michigan wines at Mari Vineyards. The pandemic and wild res impacted his ability to make wine in California for the past two vintages, but the Napa operation will continue to be a focus of the brand. He has plans for his own vineyards near Elk Rapids, but in the meantime, he’s working with local farmers who grow grapes to his speci cations.

Mike and Darlene Heuser have been farming exclusively for Bos on their 1.5 acres near Interlochen. They are excited about his results from their vines of valvin muscat, a disease-resistant white grape hybrid developed at Cornell University and released in 2006. Bos is using it in a blend he calls Peridot, a refreshing dry wine that tastes like summer in northern Michigan, with a palate of owers and peaches.

BOS HELPED CONVERT GRGICH HILLS TO BIODYNAMIC “Dave thinks it may turn out to be a bigger seller than his Riesling,” enthused Mike Heuser while sampling a glass at the Bos Wine Garden tasting room in Elk Rapids on a chilly December evening. “He makes really good wine and we’re happy to have our own little stock of it.”

Bos opened his tasting room, the rst for his label, in the summer of 2021 on Ames Street in Elk Rapids. It has a comfortable farmhouse vibe and a garden out back, which will eventually provide culinary inputs for the tasting room experience. Curating his wine with food is a key practice Bos began in California, pairing with charcuterie made by a friend in Napa. At the Elk Rapids tasting room, the curated pairing is o ered by reservation. Many tasting rooms discontinued walk-up bar service during the pandemic, and Bos elected to never start it.

“The idea here is for people to come in and sit down and have an experience,” Bos said. “We were going to a sit down experience before the pandemic. I’m so thankful that the pandemic taught people what a good tasting experience can be like.”

Where to nd: BOS Wine is available from select wine shops in northern Michigan, at the Elk Rapids tasting room (limited hours) and at boswine.com. Two clubs are o ered: a MiCa club of four bottles each quarter, and a Wine and Swine Club of six bottles paired with artisan charcuterie.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Previously a journalist for United Press International (UPI), the News and Observer (Raleigh, N.C.) and Congressional Quarterly, Sharon Flesher now writes independently from Traverse City, Mich. She is an enthusiastic student of wine and she reads too much. Find her on the web at http://twofemmes.com/

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A

by Anna Maria Giambanco DiPietro

sk any wine aficionado where wine grapes typically grow and they!ll resoundingly share:" #30 – 50° latitude, north and south of the equator.”

Within these areas, certain varieties have historically thrived in very particular regions. Take, for example, Pinot Noir in Santa Barbara County and Oregon’s Willamette AVA, Cabernet Sauvignon in Napa, and Riesling in New York’s Finger Lakes and Michigan. Vincent Anter, certi ed sommelier and founder of V is for Vino, shares: "Cool climate vs. warm climate really is one of the most telling attributes of what a wine will taste like; even more than the grape used. The same exact grape grown in di erent climates can produce wildly di erent wines. Do you like your wines lean, crisp, lower in alcohol, and higher in acid? Or rich, ripe, and robust, with more pronounced fruit notes? All of this is determined not by the grape, but by the climate. ”

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Cool Climate Tempranillo With the advent of climate change, things have gone topsy-turvy and winemakers are scrambling to adapt. The old adage “Necessity is the mother of invention” comes to mind as brave vintners and vineyard managers collaborate with meteorologists and climate experts to map out the future of wine on planet earth. Extreme weather is taking its toll, with everything from raging wild res to abnormal rainfall, tornadoes, and hail destroying vines and wreaking havoc on the wine industry.

While climate is but one determining factor when it comes to vini cation; it can make or break things. Too cool, and the grapes don’t achieve peak ripeness; too warm, and the end result is more hand sanitizer than elegant nectar of the gods. Like anything, it’s all about balance.

Cool climate regions like Michigan, Germany, Northern Italy, Chile, and the Sonoma Valley are primarily known for Riesling, Pinot Noir, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay. Warm places like Argentina, Greece, Southern France, and Southern California are best known for Malbec, Agiorgitiko, Bordeaux, Syrah, and Merlot. But these days, the lines are blurred and grapes are being mix-andmatched, yielding new, exciting bottles.

Often referred to as Spain’s “Noble Grape”, Tempranillo (tem-pra-KNEE-oh) thrives in Rioja, where it accounts for 88% of the red grapes grown there. As of 2020, 570,000 acres of Tempranillo, “little early one” in Spanish, covered the globe, with 500,000 in Spain alone. Found only on mainland Spain through the 17th century, it’s now in California, Portugal, Argentina, and Australia, where plantings have skyrocketed.

Although Tempranillo thrives in a balmy Mediterranean climate, it’s starting to pop up in some of the most unexpected places.

How about the high desert vineyards of Colorado’s Grand Valley? Walla Walla, Washington. Michigan’s producing this red beauty in the Lake Michigan Shore Appellation, and Oregonian vintners have their hats in the ring, producing rich, spicy Tempranillo that’s turning heads. Vignerons in British Columbia , Pennsylvania, and Minnesota have been busy with Tempranillo plantings of their own, and even mild-mannered Napa's gotten in on the Tempranillo tangent.

According to Wine Folly, cool climate versions of Tempranillo exhibit avor pro les that include sour cherry, strawberry sauce and, depending how long it’s in the bottle, red and black fruit avors with hints of cedar and leather. It is just one of many grapes winemakers may wish to consider as warmer weather inches its way north due to climate change.

It’s safe to say that we can expect to see eclectic o erings and non-traditional wines from vineyards across the globe where folks are shaking things up, getting creative, and rolling with the ever-changing e ects of our ongoing climate crisis. I, for one, am curious to see what transpires, and I look forward to tasting them all. ____________________ ABOUT THE AUTHOR Anna Maria is a copywriter based in Santa Barbara County, California. She draws from her experience as a beauty and wellness professional, plant-based cook, and graphic artist to create approachable, educational content. Anna Maria is also a wine writer with a WSET Level 2 with distinction certi cation.

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WINE YEAST

by Jack Costa

Number of cells in a human body: 37 trillion. Number of cells in a yeast body: 1. Ironically, the 37 trillion celled winemaker would nd themself somewhat unemployed if the 1 celled yeast did not exist. And while most people have a rough understanding that these one-celled yeast perform some kind of mysterious voodoo magic to cause bread to rise and wine grapes to ferment, they may not be aware that these fungi do much more to wine than simply convert sugar into alcohol. This begs the question; who’s the real winemaker: man or yeast?

Yeast: not just about the alcohol The yeasts used in winemaking are generally cream-colored, round, or sometimes slightly ovular in appearance. The yeast strain considered the gold standard for winemaking

is

called “Saccharomyces cerevisiae,” a Latin phrase that translates literally as “Sugar Fungus” (no explanation is needed for why the Latin translation is still preferred). And while the primary role of yeast is to convert sugars into alcohol, these fungi are also responsible for several other chemical processes that signi cantly a ect the avor and structure of wines. Yeast accomplishes this winemaking feat by interacting with the acids, alcohols, and solids contained in the fermenting grape must. In doing so the yeast can actually synthesize new avor compounds by altering the chemical composition of the grape juice. Many of these additional aromas and avors created by the yeast can be unique to particular grape varieties. For example, Viognier grape juice contains compounds necessary for producing isoamyl acetate, a chemical known for smelling and tasting like bananas. A winemaker can utilize a yeast strain known for producing higher amounts of isoamyl acetate to craft a wine with extra banana notes which is a hallmark of Viognier. Listed below are several examples of chemical compounds and their resulting avor pro les. Each of these compounds can be enhanced depending upon the selection of speci c yeast strain.

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Ethyl acetate- Nail polish, fruity Isoamyl acetate Banana, pear Isobutyl acetate-Banana, fruity Phenyl ethyl acetate-Roses, owery Hexyl acetate-Sweet, perfume Ethyl butanoate-Floral, fruity Ethyl hexanoate-Green apple Ethyl octanoate-Soap, apple Ethyl decanoate-Floral, soap In addition to imparting speci c avors into wines, the yeast can also have a signi cant e ect on the color and structure of wines. By releasing proteins during and after fermentation, the yeast can signi cantly in uence a wine's mouthfeel by contributing “thickness” or “silky” textures to the nal wine.

Sometimes, however, yeast are capable of producing aromas and compounds that aren’t so pleasant. Because the fermentation process is a full-time and taxing occupation for the yeast, they require lots of energy, nutrients, and sugar to sustain their work. If the yeast is not properly cared for during fermentation it can begin to struggle physically, which can cause the yeast to release sulfur compounds, some of which smell akin to rotten eggs. Struggling yeast can also produce acetaldehyde (rotten fruits) and ethyl acetate (nail polish remover). To prevent these winemaking catastrophes, winemakers will add vitamins and nutrients to the wine to sustain the yeast during the strenuous fermentation period (think Gatorade for yeast). Happy yeast, happy wine.

Because all yeasts are not created equal, di erent strains have di erent strengths and weaknesses. Some yeasts thrive in warm fermentation conditions, while others prefer more mild temperatures. Making a sparkling wine requires a more resilient and hardy yeast to survive the harsh working conditions involved during the second fermentation process which occurs within an enclosed bottle. Winemakers have also created smaller batches of wine, each fermented with di erent yeast strains with the intention of blending the wines later to create a more interesting and complex avor pro le. Having a large portfolio of yeasts can provide wineries with much more exibility when crafting wines.

Commercial vs Native Yeast There are hundreds of commercially developed yeast strains that are used for winemaking. Speci c strains are often isolated, cultured in a lab, and packaged for commercial use.

Many wineries, however, prefer the use of “Native Yeast”. Rather than adding commercially isolated strains, wild yeast, which reside in the air, on equipment, and upon the skins of grapes, initiate the fermentation. Winemakers argue whether these native yeast are better than commercial strains by suggesting they add more interesting and distinctive avors to the wine.

There are even products available for the humble home winemaker to isolate their own yeast strains. So if you nd that your garage wine project rivals Opus One, you can now identify the yeast strain responsible for your masterpiece.

Unfortunately, one really never knows what’s in the air and relying on the whims of native yeast strains can be risky business.

Many consider the reliance on native yeast strains to be an unnecessary risk and can result in wine spoilage. Not only are native yeasts capable of producing compounds like ethyl acetate (nail polish remover) and acetaldehyde (rotten fruit aromas), but native strains generally ferment more slowly, leaving wine susceptible to oxidation.

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Perhaps the most signi cant spoilage native yeast, however, is Ludwiggi. Considered a “winemaker’s worst nightmare”, Ludwiggi not only produces high concentrations of vinegar and rotten fruit aromas, but is incredibly di cult to remove from an environment due to its extreme resistance to sulfur, alcohol, and other cleaning agents. This particular yeast also produced “ oaters”, or a chunky sludge similar to snot…lovely. As my winemaking professor would say: “Winemakers are highly paid janitors.” Sanitation is crucial if winemakers wish to avoid such slimy perils.

Brettanomyces: winemaker’s best friend or wine fault?

Unlike the standard Saccharomyces yeast, Brettanomyces, or “Brett,” is a native strain known for producing distinctive dried hay, old parchment, barnyard, and earthy aromas in wine. When carefully monitored, Brett incorporates an enjoyable barnyard, dirt, and funk avor. In excess, however, it will generate odors similar to mouse urine, old band-aid, and sweat.

Again, not something one wishes to pass their lips.

It is easy to understand why inoculating wine with commercial yeast rather than native strains can provide winemakers with an insurance policy against the very real and costly possibility of wine spoilage. It should be noted that the topic of native vs commercial yeast is somewhat contentious with many supporters and critics on both sides of the topic.

Winemakers and scientists are still discovering what the mighty yeast is capable of and how it in uences the wine we drink. While the most important factor in great wine is no doubt the quality of the grapes, the second most important factor is arguably the yeast. This does unfortunately place the prestigious winemaker in third place (if one does not consider the terroir or barrels). From miraculously converting sugar into alcohol, enhancing color, texture, and giving wine its distinct “wine” avor, yeast cells, without a doubt, are truly the real winemakers. ___________________ Works cited Saerens, So e M., et al. “Production and Biological Function of Volatile Esters In Saccharomyces Cerevisiae.” Microbial Biotechnology, vol. 3, no. 2, 2009, pp. 165–177., https://doi.org/10.1111/ j.1751-7915.2009.00106.x.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Often asked if he’s even old enough to drink, Jack is a writer, educator, and professional wine judge. The Oregon native studied winemaking under mentor Stephen Reustle and occasionally contributes to the award winning blog Wine Folly.

Pangzhen Zhang, Ruige Zhang, Sameera Sirisena, Renyou Gan, Zhongxiang Fang, Beta-glucosidase activity of wine yeasts and its impacts on wine volatiles and phenolics: A mini-review, Food Microbiology, 10.1016/j.fm.2021.103859, 100, (103859), (2021).

“How Yeast A ects the Taste of Wine.” Wine Folly, 20 Feb. 2020, https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/how-yeast-a ects-the-taste-ofwine/.

September 11, and Sylvia Wu. “Wine Yeast: How Do Yeasts Impact the Flavor?” Decanter, 11 Sept. 2020, https://www.decanter.com/ learn/wine-yeast-45474/.

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THE EFFICIENT VINEYARD

By Jim Rink

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nationwide program funded

by the USDA-NIFA-Specialty Crop Research Initiative will help grape growers better manage their vineyards. According to the New York Wine & Grape Foundation, “The E cient Vineyard approach involves measuring and collecting data on soils, canopy, crop size, and fruit quality, combining direct vineyard measurements and/or

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sensor data into valuable viticulture knowledge for vineyard managers, and developing variable rate vineyard prescription maps to improve yield and quality, lower production costs, and conserve labor and environmental resources."

As part of the E cient Vineyard approach, growers utilize a free MyEV tool. The web-based tool is ideal for small to medium sized grape growers to easily visualize spatial data and plan ahead.

According to the E cient Vineyard website (https://www.e cientvineyard.com) timeline, the program began in 2005, with traditional vineyard soil and vine measurements such as soil moisture and vine pruning weight, and geo-referenced and mapped them with developing GPS technology.

"growers utilize a free myEV tool" Between 2006 and 2010, following global e orts in precision viticulture, Dr. Terry Bates, senior research associate at Cornell AgriTech, began investigating o -the-shelf sensors, grape yield monitor technology, and spatial data mapping in New York Concord vineyards. Spatial variation in commercial vineyards proved to be high, supporting the future potential in using sensorGPS technology to map and manage vineyard productivity.

In 2011, Cornell Viticulture worked with Carnegie Mellon Engineering to develop a prototype imaging system to count fruit and map yield in Cornell research vineyards. The following year, the National Grape and Wine Initiative (precursor to NGRA — National Grape Research Alliance) funded a pilot study on spatial vineyard crop load mapping. Precision Agriculture scientist, James Taylor, joined the Cornell Lake Erie Research team and elevated the level of spatial data processing and interpretation.

In 2013, vine balance was adopted as an integrated relationship between soil properties, canopy growth, and crop size. Soil (DualEM), Canopy (CropCircle NDVI), Crop (CMU image unit), and yield (ATV yield monitor) sensors are used to demonstrate the complexity within and between spatial vineyard layers.

REAL VINEYARDS, REAL APPLICATIONS In 2014, As part of the NGRA pilot study, soil, canopy, and crop sensors were deployed in juice, wine, and table grape vineyards to understand the degree and pattern of spatial variation under commercial conditions. The following year, the USDA funded the E cient Vineyard SCRI Project.

2016 was devoted to improving measurement tools. Soil, canopy, and crop sensors were validated against manual in- eld measurements to translate spatial sensor data into vineyard information, such as canopy ll and vine pruning weight. The CMU vineyard image system was further developed to non-destructively detect berry number and berry diameter. This was turned into a visible berry count and spatially mapped to visualize crop distribution and improve vineyard crop estimation. Raw data from all the sensors are processed by a technique which allows comparison between information layers (much like peeling

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Chantal Lefebvre WaterFire Vineyards

away the layers of an onion). Ultimately, all this data collection needs to be turned into smart management decisions. Di erent methods of generating spatial prescription maps are tested under commercial conditions.

The CMU image system successfully tracks spatial color development in California vineyards and predicts the percentage harvestable fruit for the next week, in uencing harvest and labor decisions. The EV project integrates spatial prescription maps with precision agriculture software and vineyard mechanization implements to deliver variable-rate applications. Successful variable-rate mechanization both reduces vineyard labor costs and improves overall vineyard balance.

As the program further developed, commercial yield monitors were added, as well as a Brix monitor, which allowed simultaneous mapping during harvest operations, important for evaluating past management and planning for the next season.

The nal step was the addition of the MyEV tool, which enables growers to access all pertinent data online.

Seventeen years may seem like a long time to develop a user-friendly vineyard management tool with state-of-the-art data collection and comprehensive mapping capabilities, but some would say it was worth the wait.

In a masterful understatement, Bates, who is also project leader for the E cient Vineyard Project, said that despite some setbacks during the program’s history, “sticking to project objectives led to incremental achievements that, when taken together, led to achieving our overall goal.”

For more information on the E cient Vineyard project, visit https://www.e cientvineyard.com _______________ ABOUT THE AUTHOR Jim Rink is the editor of Michigan Uncorked. He is also editor of the American Wine Society Journal.

Jim’s family owned Boskydel Vineyard for 42 years, the first vineyard and winery in Leelanau Peninsula.

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Between the Vines Ellen Landis, CS, CSW

Aurora Cellars | 2020 Gewürztraminer | Leelanau Peninsula The fragrant bouquet of freesias and roses on the nose is awakening. On the palate, this medium sweet wine o ers up delicious elements of lychee, passion fruit, orange marmalade, hints of spice cake, and grilled pineapple. It boasts ne balance, and the nish lingers on and on. SRP: $19 | Food pairing: Shrimp and pineapple s r fry | www.auroracellars.com Aurora Cellars | 2020 Dry Riesling | Leelanau Peninsula Broadcas ng classic Riesling characteris cs, here is an upli ing, well-cra ed dry Riesling. A bowlful of juicy summer peaches and nectarines join fresh squeezed lime, minerality, a trace of salinity, and citrus blossom accents. Bracing acidity keeps it brilliantly balanced through the lively nish. SRP: $19 | Food pairing: Rock sh ceviche | www.auroracellars.com Detroit Vineyards | 2020 Herman Farms Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc | Lake Michigan Shore The engaging aroma of sun-ripened stone fruit really gets your juices owing. Flavors of tangy passion fruit, lemon verbena, gooseberries, citrus splashed nectarines, and ripe peaches combine with gravelly minerality and brisk acidity, and the nish feels eternal. SRP: $28 | Food pairing: Crispy fried oysters | www.detroitvineyards.com Detroit Vineyards | Woodward & Vine 2020 Domaine Berrien Vineyard !Blau! | Lake Michigan Shore This juicy dry red, composed of 100% Blaufränkisch, displays a heady oral aroma. A bright burst of ripe purple plums, hints of cinnamon, and raspberries intertwine with subtle pepper spice and a kiss of oak from neutral French barrel aging.

Finishes long and elegantly. SRP: $32 | Food pairing: Cavatelli pasta with duck ragu | www.detroitvineyards.com St. Julian Winery | 2019 Braganini Reserve Tramine e | Lake Michigan Shore Floral and spice elements greet the nose with this energe c, slightly sweet wine. A bright blast of crisp apples, fresh peaches, lychee, Meyer lemon sorbet, and hints of homemade honeycomb candy explode deliciously on the palate. Well balanced through the nal juicy sip. SRP: $15.99 | Food pairing: Chicken curry soup | www.stjulian.com St. Julian Winery | 2019 Braganini Reserve Albariño | Lake Michigan Shore The scent of sweet acacia owers leads to vibrant fruit avors of ripe kiwi, fresh apricot, blood orange, and tropical Galia melon heightened by fresh squeezed lemon accents coa ng the palate. Smooth and easy to qua with a pleasing mineral edge that persists through the upbeat close. SRP: $21.99 | Food pairing: Lemon- nged prawn riso o | www.stjulian.com Winery at Black Star Farms | 2019 Gamay Noir | Leelanau Peninsula Aromas of strawberry rhubarb pie lead the parade for this elegant dry red wine. Montmorency cherries, a gentle dus ng of herbs, candied raspberries, shades of forest oor, and a whisper of oak wrap around graceful tannins. Well balanced and ethereal on the palate through the dreamy nish. SRP: $17.50 | Food pairing: Penne pasta with Black Forest ham and pea pods | www.blackstarfarms.com

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Brengman Brothers Crain Hill Vineyard | 2018 DaGudScht Blanc de Blancs XTRA BRUT | Leelanau Peninsula This spirited bubbly opens with an invi ng lemon-lime scent. The creamy mousse and ny bead cap vate the eye, and ngling acidity exhilarates the palate. Deliciously dry and bright as stone fruit, yellow plum, quince paste, and citrus accents entwine from the sparkling start to the vivid nish. SRP: $49.95 | Food pairing: Pepper jelly/cream cheese cros ni | www.brengmanbrothers.com

The quality of wines across Michigan continues to reach higher levels Brengman Brothers Crain Hill Vineyard | 2020 Riesling Trocken | Leelanau Peninsula A mouthwatering citrus blossom and wet stone aroma wa s from the glass. This buoyant, dry Riesling is fresh and vibrant with white peach, fresh apricot, chalky minerality, and lime zest ckling the taste buds. Sleek and lively with a racy spine of acidity and a nish that goes the distance. SRP: $24.95 | Food pairing: Prosciu o wrapped gs | www.brengmanbrothers.com Good Harbor Vineyards | 2019 Pinot Noir Zweigelt | Leelanau Peninsula A whi of lilacs and strawberries on the nose set the stage for a lovely intermingling of tart cherries, black raspberries, dried strawberries, a touch of earthiness, and a twist of white peppercorns wrapped around a nice backbone of acidity.

Sleek and fresh tas ng on the palate, and the nal sip is everlas ng. SRP: $36 | Food pairing: Chicken marsala | www.goodharbor.com Good Harbor Benjamin’s Vineyard | NV Blanc de Noirs | Leelanau Peninsula The beau ful mousse and aroma of fresh red and black berries are scin lla ng. Red raspberries, fresh just picked strawberries, hints of pie crust, a twist of orange peel, and blanched almond avors unfold in harmony. The creamy texture carries the wine to a vibrant nish. SRP: $24 | Food pairing: Smoked salmon pate | www.goodharbor.com

ABOUT THE AUTHOR Ellen Landis, CS, CSW, is a published wine writer, certified sommelier, wine educator and professional wine judge. She spent four years as a sommelier at the Ritz Carlton and sixteen years as Wine Director/ Sommelier at the award winning boutique hotel she and her husband built and operated in Half Moon Bay, CA. They recently sold the hotel to devote more time to the world of wine. Contact Ellen at ellen@ellenonwine.com

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Winery at Black Star Farms | 2019 Gewürztraminer | Michigan Here is a brilliant example of a dry Gewürztraminer. The expressive aroma draws you hear ly into the glass. Zesty layers of tropical guava, lychee, lemon zest, and fresh ground ginger unwind seamlessly onto the palate. Beau fully textured and pris nely balanced as it heads to the grand nale. SRP: $18 | Food pairing: Sautéed chicken with garlic/ginger sauce www.blackstarfarms.com

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◀ Wine Infused Dessert Sauce Made of spices, whole fruits, and Zinfandel or Merlot, these sauces let you drizzle wine on anything. Drinks or dessert? You can have both... for breakfast (or whenever you're feeling saucy). These small-batch sauces don't contain alcohol, but add a subtle, fruity wine avor to anything. Available at https://tinyurl.com/43pte49m | MSRP: $17

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SIPPING WINE AT SUNSET ON OLD MISSION PENINSULA

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