The Island of Madeira A Vacation Insiders Guide
THOUGHTS FROM THE EDITOR
AN ISLAND OF DIVERSITY... I've never been to Madeira - it was always one of those places I'd heard about but never felt compelled to find out more - after all the Canaries, Ibiza, Menorca, Majorca et al are all more obvious when you think of an island destination around Southern Europe and Northern Africa. But then I met Heather MacLachlan, our Madeiran insider, and I did a 180 turn! It's fair to say Heather and Madeira are a perfect match, almost destined for each other. Both share the same energy; both have a story to tell; and both have a strong sense of culture and history. I was immediately drawn to the strong colours and the sense of drama. The deep greens of the levada trails, the New Year's Eve fireworks, the spring flower festival, the Priest walking the flower carpet, and the trees wrapped in coloured lights during December. Then there's the great outdoors. Swimming in the lava pools at Porto Moniz, the stunning views from Pico Ruivo, and the dramatic coastline. And let's not forget one of the other luxuries of taking a holiday - eating! As Heather so simply puts it "the thought of Espetada and a good Picado or Piri Piri chicken, has my taste buds quivering"! Madeira is now on my bucket list! How foolish I was to have overlooked Madeira for so many years. And, may I say, how foolish you'd be to ignore such a diverse island!
E: andy@vacationinsiders.com W: www.vacationinsiders.com
MEET YOUR INSIDER
HEATHER MACLACHLAN... If someone had told me 17 years ago that I would be living in Madeira and running a self catering accommodation business I would have wondered if they were smoking their socks! At the time I owned a successful children’s clothing manufacturing business in Cape Town and my life on the tip of Africa precluded any thought of moving. But the universe conspired and, through business, my father was introduced to a few members of the extensive Madeiran community living in Cape Town. Of course one thing always leads to another and, by the end of the following year, we had been to visit the island and my father had fallen under its spell. Once he retired, visiting Madeira during the South African winters became an annual pilgrimage. The island eventually worked its magic on my mother and it was agreed that they would look for something of their own; a little lock up and go. That ended up being a piece of land in Calheta. They subsequently discovered that the palheiro (stone shed) they thought belonged to someone else actually belonged to them so forthwith plans were drawn up to increase its little footprint and add on a second floor; alterations which they supervised themselves over the next two visits.
“There is a very unique rhythm to life here... there is nothing that needs to be done today that cannot be done tomorrow. A true amanhã lifestyle!”
Contact Heather: Simply click any of the buttons below to find out more about Heather's self catering cottages!
Alternatively feel free to call Heather direct on +351926417836
Having fallen in love with the island myself I decided to join my parents and be a part of the exciting project that was unfolding there. In April 2009 I received my Portuguese residence visa, my Mum celebrated her 80th birthday and the project was under way. By September 2010 we had moved into our new family home and were nervously awaiting the arrival of our first guests at Banda do Sol Cottages! I find it hard to believe that three years have passed since that day. If someone were to say “here’s a ticket to go wherever you want in the world” I would be hard pressed to choose another place. There is a very unique rhythm to life here, be it sitting in the sun at one of the almost obligatory local coffee shops watching life go by, taking a swim in the ocean at high tide, chopping some bamboo from down the road in order to stake one’s tomatoes and then donning one's glad rags and popping into Funchal to attend an international Jazz Festival! There’s nothing that needs to be done today that cannot be done tomorrow. A true amanhã lifestyle. Added to which I’ve not yet had a better cup of coffee anywhere else in Europe! My life here is a holiday.
What the Reviews Say:
HEATHER’S REAL MADEIRA...
Madeiran people are amongst the most welcoming and friendly you will ever meet. They are kind and generous people, humble yet proud at the same time. I believe that this emanates from the major role the Catholic Church plays in their lives. This is a Matriarchal, God fearing island with a respectful work ethic - both past and present. Look beyond the rows of banana trees and vineyards to the age old terraces that are no longer farmed - terraces that were hand built and in places that mountain goats might think twice about venturing into! Look at the building development and the rate at which it is achieved. Look at the tunnels!! There's no better example of the friendliness than the times when my parents would arrive for their annual sojourn here - they'd find their plants had been tended, cared for and expanded upon whilst they were back ‘home’; and no sooner had they unpacked they would hear the gate bell ring only to find a string of onions or bucket of potatoes waiting for them to welcome them back. Even if folk have very little they will share it with you. In essence there is an honour system here that I feel very comfortable living within and I do believe visitors to
our island can feel this spirit. As a food lover with a passion for cooking I love the fresh, local produce that you find on the island. Being surrounded by the sea waters of the Atlantic, fresh fish and sea food are always in abundance. Tuna, Baccalhau (the local name for Cod) Espada (a deep sea scabbard fish) fresh sardines and limpets are but a few. Just the thought of Espetada - chunks of beef smeared in garlic and rock salt, skewered on a stick of Bay Leaf and grilled over hot coals - and a good Picado or Piri Piri chicken, has my taste buds quivering. The contrast between the eateries in Funchal and those found out in the countryside is quite vast but then so are the prices. That said, even though fine dining is not the norm the haute cuisine one can find in Funchal is some of the best and cheapest I’ve eaten in Europe. What this island gives me is the gift of truly living in the moment; a garden which provides me with so much joy and colour and produce; a neighborhood with a true sense of community and I have people from all over the world coming to stay!
Heather’s Favourite Local Produce...
Bolo de Mel - Honey Cake. What the locals consider their national cake. Dark and rich and made with honey, cane sugar and almonds.
Poncha is a popular tasty yet potent regional beverage made with rum, local honey and fresh lemon juice or orange juice or passion fruit juice.
Madeira wine is a fortified wine, very robust due to a process which involves heating the wine up to 60C.
5 EXPERIENCES YOU CANNOT MISS... 1
Walk one of the many levada trails...
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Take the cable car up to Monte...
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Swim in the lava pools at Porto Moniz...
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Order a Pastel de Nata to go with a Chinesa...
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The Funchal fish, fruit and vegetable market...
You have to experience the wondrous landscapes of the island and the easiest and best way to do this is to put on your walking boots. The most famous is the trail that connects Pico do Arieiro, 1817m to Pico Ruivo, the highest summit in Madeira, 1862m. It is simply amazing; the views are stunning and will take your breath away. My personal favourite is Levada Ribeira de Janela situated above Porto Moniz. Watching the sunrise at Encumeada is also an unforgettable experience.
I would recommend doing a return trip after exploring the Monte Palace gardens rather than taking the toboggans down - they are expensive and not as exhilarating as one is led to believe. My other favourite gardens are in the centre of Funchal at Santa Catarina Park. These are just over the road from the Teatro Balthazar, the local theatre which emulates La Scala on a smaller scale. Sit in the sun at the Cafe Teatro and watch the world stroll by; life is good.
A great way to spend the afternoon after walking the levada! These pools are situated at the north west tip of the island and the seas that pound the shores are quite majestic. I would pack a picnic though as the local eateries can be overpriced and substandard. Better places can be found a little further along at Ponta do Pargo, where one of the island’s lighthouses is situated.
Forget about tea at Reid’s...pop into any one of the thousands of little cafe’s that populate the island and order a Pastel de Nata (Custard Tart) to go with a Chinesa (large coffee with hot frothy milk). My favourite place for this is at the Quinta Pedagogia - a little tea house in a village called Prazeres in the gardens of the rectory of the local church. It has a quirky little zoo attached to it where one can grab a bag of corn for 50c and feed the animals. My personal favourites are the llamas!
Go on a Friday (and in the early morning) as that is when all the local farmers take in their produce and the spectacle of colour and smells is breathtaking. Tucked away downstairs there is a great bakery where the locals enjoy their daily grind. Not to mention the fantastic spice stall upstairs! From there stroll into the cobbled streets of the Old Town specifically Rua Santa Maria. I try never to miss seeing the fantastic painted doorways whenever I visit this part of Funchal.
MADEIRA IN SEASONS...
As with Vivaldi’s violin concerto, Madeira has its own four very distinctive seasons. Being in the Northern hemisphere we start our seasonal year in March with Spring. And what better way to mark this than with a parade - Carnaval! This annual festival is held forty days before Easter and ends on Shrove Tuesday - or Fat Tuesday as it is called here, the day before Ash Wednesday or the first day of Lent. We have two parades - both very different from each other. The first is a more sophisticated and thematic procession of floats and troupes in magnificently colourful costumes dancing to samba music - all very evocative of the Rio Carnival. The second one is held on Fat Tuesday and, like Mardi Gras in New Orleans, everybody can take part and can dress up in whatever takes their fancy.
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...a sight that can never really be conveyed in words or captured on film... an experience that is never forgotten.
Other festivals celebrated in summer include the Cherry Festival - their bounty is sold along the roadsides throughout the island so even if one misses the festival one can never miss the cherries - the Jazz festival, the Banana Festival, the Apple festival with its all important Cider and of course the Madeira Wine festival - the festival honouring the precious nectar that the island is famous for! If there are Chestnuts being sold from the street carts then it must be Autumn. The Valley of the Nuns abounds with history and urban legend but also with Chestnut Trees and they too have their own festival in November.
The next big Spring event is, of course, the Flower Festival. Madeira has been described as Europe’s greenhouse and this festival does not disappoint. In as much as the fireworks take ones breath away each and every float in the Sunday parade will do the same. This is one of those sights that should be on everyone’s bucket list!
December in Funchal is magical. It is with almost childish impatience that the community awaits the beginning of the month and, with it, the turning on of the Christmas lights and thus the count down to the New Year. Over and above the traditional Christmas light displays, which are spectacular, all the trees are literally wrapped in coloured lights and tucked away in the branches here and there are little speakers playing music which provides a wonderful ‘soundtrack’ whilst strolling through the streets.
The Atlantic Festival in June heralds the beginning of Summer. Throughout Summer the Church in each village or town holds their own religious celebration which we call a Festa. You will know one has started as each and every Saturday at 12 noon a volley of fireworks is set off to signal the start of the festa - there seems to be a competition to see which village can make the loudest bang! The Church service on the Sunday ends with the Priest walking along a predetermined route around the church on what we call a flower carpet - a pathway literally carpeted in flowers - the Church elders and congregation follow. This ritual is to honour their particular Saint.
If one arrives in Madeira at night time the first glimpse of Funchal is literally breathtaking. And, much like a child with an Advent Calendar, the excitement on this little island mounts as day by day we get closer to New Year’s Eve. The cruise liners all start arriving early in the morning of the 31st and by that evening the Port is overflowing with twinkling ships and every possible vantage point on land is taken up and as the clock ticks over to the new year the city bowl explodes in a cacophony of colour and sound - a sight that can never really be conveyed in words or captured on film, but an experience that is never forgotten.
THE PRACTICAL STUFF... Where is the Nearest Airport? Funchal Airport is around 50km, or 45 mins from our cottages. The airport is served by many airlines and tour operators. Where a direct flight is not available the best hub is Lisbon because of the many daily connections. Please click here for a full list of the airlines.
How Easy is it to Get Around? The best way is to hire a car. I have a good relationship with Funchal Car Hire. Alternatively there is a local taxi service that we frequently use, who will do supermarket and restaurant trips for €10-€15 return, and island tours for €120. So car hire is certainly cheaper unless you want to lie by the pool all day!
What’s the Weather Like? The thing that strikes most or my guests are the microclimates on Madeira. To help, I always provide guests this link to the webcams around the island to check before you go! All this said, the weather is fantastic year-round, yes even winter! Click this link for a very good analysis of the weather.
How Far Does My Money Go? The island is cheaper than the mainland, and the country areas cheaper than in Funchal. A lunchtime plate of the day is a big thing here and ranges between €5-€7. Dinner ranges from €15 per head excluding drinks, up to €50 per head including drinks (eg The Vine Hotel). Coffee is €1. A really drinkable bottle of wine €3-€5 (buying direct, not on a menu!). G&T will cost on average €5.
Where Can I Shop for Groceries, etc? PINGO DOCE or CONTINENTE are the 2 major supermarket chains with one (Pingo) 5 minutes away from the cottages. Added to that every little village is peppered with mini markets. There is one within walking distance which also has a coffee bar/bar/small restaurant attached to it - our daily spot for coffee and they make a mean goat stew on a Tuesday :)
Other Useful Practical Tips? If you plan to go walking on the levadas you should pack a light shower jacket, water bottle, and a small torch (some levada trails involve walking through tunnels). GPS units don’t always work on the island so maps are essential for driving and walking. Good ones are available everywhere on the island but I provide as many as possible for my guests.
HEATHER’S TIPS ON WHERE TO STAY... Madeira has a number of options depending on your needs. Below is Heather's very own vacation rental, along with a couple of other suggestions. Should those all be booked up feel free to drop us a line and let us know. We're not a travel agency but will certainly try to lend a helping hand by offering some tips to make your search easier!
Heather’s Very Own...
The Banda do Sol cottages are situated in the charming district of Estreito da Calheta which is on the southwest coast of this idyllic island. There are two 2-bedroom cottages and one 1-bedroom cottage. Visit Heather's Website to Find Out More
Heather Suggests...
Quinta Mae dos Homens for guests looking for a Funchal experience. Ideal for times when I can't accommodate my guests for all their chosen dates so they can either start their holiday there or end it with a 2 night stay in the city. This makes for a nice balance to their island visit. Visit the Quinta Mae dos Homens Website For More
Heather Suggests...
The Atrio for guests who prefer Bed and Breakfast accommodation.This is a gorgeous little B&B quite near to where we are situated but higher up so they too are perfectly situated for a country holiday and are close to all the levada walks. Visit the Atrio Website to Find Out More
We're here to help if you need... We get it, searching for the perfect place to stay can wear you down. So allow us to help you. Below are some suggestions to help make life easier. But if you're really stuck drop us a line and we'll try to help.
Places to Search...
Vacation rentals are growing in popularity. It's not just the extra space and freedom, but it's very often because the owners are personable and focused on service. The widest selection can be found on sites like HomeAway, VRBO and FlipKey
OR Ask for Referrals...
As you trawl VRBO and other vacation rental sites you may come up against "sorry we're booked" responses. But owners frequently know other owners in the same area. So, if you come up against booked places just ask the owner if they can refer you!
OR Just Ask us...
Through our work with Heather, as well as our connections to other owners, we can help guide you in your search. Just drop us a line, let us know what's vexing you and we'll lend you a helping hand - we're not a travel agency but we can offer some tips!
THE VACATION INSIDER PHILOSOPHY
PUT THE GUIDEBOOK DOWN... Guidebooks are a great overview but your vacation insider is a local specialist so put the guidebook down and ask your insider!
If you’re an accommodation owner and would like to participate in the Insider Guide series we’d love to hear from you! Email: info@vacationinsiders.com or Web: www.vacationinsiders.com VACATION INSIDERS © 2014 | www.vacationinsiders.com