Warsaw Insider October 2015 #230

Haunted Warsaw

In Depth: Plac Bankowy page 10

Warsaw

page 22

Warsaw Architecture

Travel: Poznań

page 18

page 28

October 10 price zł.10 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

(230)

2015

(VAT 8% included)

OCTOBER 2015 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

like that before: lingering well into September, the weather was punishing for peaky, pallid creatures such as myself.

So a big welcome to autumn, a month that sees the city explode into a riot of carrot and caramel colors. Even the city’s concrete bits can breathe again, areas like Pl. Bankowy. A smashing example of the city’s disjointed nature, too often it’s been viewed as just a place where your taxi stalls in a thick gloop of traffic. If not Warsaw’s most scenic district, it does have soul and stories aplenty. We take a closer look at those in this issue’s anchor feature. Elsewhere, we hear out Grzegorz Piątek, one of Poland’s top architecture critics, zoom in on the murals of Muranów, and make the journey to check out the transformation of Poznań. Oh, and there’s a couple of ghosts tucked into the issue as well…

Till next month!

INFRONT

Opener 7 News 8 Halloween 10 Pets 12

FEATURES

Public Art 14 Interview: Grzegorz Piątek 18 Neighborhood Watch: Plac Bankowy 22 Travel: Poznań 22

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

LISTINGS

Restaurants 48 Cafes & Wine Bars 69 Nightlife 72 Shopping 79 Family 82 Health & Beauty 87 In the City 90

REVIEWS

El Popo 32 Dom Wódki 34 Vegemiasto 37

PARTNER NEWS

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 38

INBACK

Map 94 Looking Back 96

Contributors: Gill Boelman-Burrows Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2015 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover Tying in with our Pl. Bankowy feature, the cover star this month is bard Juliusz Słowacki – his statue stares across the square, and gets a Halloween twist from our cover artist. See page 22.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

I’ve never known a heatwave

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BABY DIOR DOLCE&GABBANA KIDS DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

COMEDY

Improv Sunday’s Every Sun, 20:00 @ Cafe Niespodzianka, ul. Marszałkowska 7 A theatrical English-language performance group with a focus on improvised comedy. They say: “we’re always looking for talented people to join us on stage.”

For info see: improv.pl

FOOD

Targ Śniadaniowy Sat or Sun @ various locations Much more than the breakfast market it modestly bills itself as, this open air spot is a bit of everything: a food market, a picnic, even a place to get your bike fixed. Locations include Żoliborz, Powiśle, Ursynów and Mokotów.

For further info, see: targsniadaniowy.pl

RUN

Parkrun

Editor’s Pick 3rd Warsaw Beer Festival The Warsaw Beer Festival presents craft beer galore from international and domestic brewers and a whole load of food trucks!

15-17 Oct @ Legia Stadium, warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl

Every Sat, 9:00 @ Praga (Park Skaryszewski), Ursynów (park next to Bazantarnia), Żoliborz (Kępa Potocka park), Bródno (Park Bródnowski) Improve your run time by participating in the 5k Parkrun held across four locations each Saturday. Unlike the timed races you get in Warsaw, taking part in this one is free of charge.

For info see: parkrun.pl

FESTIVAL

Chopin Competition 1-23 October @ various locations With the preliminary qualifying rounds over, now the real business begins.

The 17th International Fryderyk Chopin Competition pits 80 international pianists against each other before culminating in a grand finale. Held mainly in the Philharmonic, there’ll also be a special event hosted in the Church of the Holy Cross to mark the death of the composer.

For info and ticket details, see: chopincompetition2015.com

CONCERT

Mostly Other People Do The Killing 1 Oct, 20:30 @ Pardon To Tu, Pl. Gryzbowski 12/16 This New York jazz quartet are a favorite of the critics, thanks in part to lively

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performances that combine elements of rock, pop and classical. Their line-up includes trumpet legend Peter Evans, not to mention Kevin Shea who was named New York’s ‘best drummer’ in 2012 by the Village Voice.

Tickets zł. 40 @ Pardon To Tu

RECREATION

Night Skating 1 Oct, 21:00 @ Copernicus Monument, ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 19.5 km route. The mass skate lasts two to three hours and will mark the last meeting of the night skating season.

For details see: nightskating.waw.pl

Music

Grand Opening of XOXO 2-3 Oct @ XOXO, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 6 This could well become one of the most important clubs in Warsaw! See for yourself at their two-night Grand Opening party on the first weekend of October.

For info, see: xoxoishere.com

CONCERT

The Doors Alive 3 Oct, 19:00 @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99A Regarded as the world’s best Doors tribute band, The Doors Alive come to Poland to rock out classics like Riders on the Storm and Light My Fire, renditions of which have earned them a cult world following. Their concerts retain the intimate feel of 70s concerts rather than the grand scale shows that tribute bands tend to put on.

Tickets from zł. 120 @ eventim.pl

RUN

Biegnij Warsaw 4 Oct, 11:00 @ ul. Czerniakowska The largest ‘fun run’ in Poland follows a ten kilometer route and is held in conjunction with the Maszeruję – Kibicuję walk. In 2009 the run was voted Warsaw’s top sporting event.

For further info, see: biegnijwarszawo.pl

FESTIVAL

Warsaw Film Festival 9-18 Oct @ various locations The WFF has evolved into one of the most

prestigious festivals that Warsaw has on offer. The festival showcases the best of Polish, European and international cinema, with a mission statement to increase international awareness of Polish film and culture.

For further info, see: wff.pl

FESTIVAL

Warsaw Under Construction 10 Oct till 10 Nov @ ul. Emilii Plater 29 The exhibition presents the story behind the creation of modern, post-war Warsaw, as well as the main disagreements that arose as a result. The month long event includes workshops and guided tours, and kicks-off with an opening night ‘school disco’.

For details, see: wwb7.artmuseum.pl

CONCERT

Simply Red 24 Oct, 20:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Sold out! Touts are your best option.

Reformed to celebrate their 30th anniversary, this massive world tour will see the blue-eyed soul legends belting out their greatest hits, as well as material from their newest album, Big Love.

MOTORING

Verva Street Racing 24 Oct @ National Stadium

Stunt shows, monster trucks, rally races, a destruction derby and… a 90 minute Top Gear-style show presented by Clarkson, Hammond and May! Tickets from zł. 129 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Chris Botti 31 Oct, 18:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A One of the few smooth jazz artists to penetrate the mainstream, Botti’s 2013 Grammy was the reward for years of patiently knocking on the door.

Tickets from zł. 129 @ eventim.pl

Visit Żelazowa Wola- THE BIRTHPLACE of Fryderyk Chopin

CONCERT

Ambrose Akinmusire Quartet 12 Oct, 20:30 @ Pardon To Tu, Pl. Gryzbowski 12/16 The recipient of numerous accolades, among them Carmine Caruso International Jazz Trumpet Solo Competition, the Oakland-born Ambrose Akinmusire is a massive star on the jazz circuit and he’ll be accompanied by Sam Harris on piano, Justin Brown handling the percussion and Harish Raghavan on double bass.

Booking information: tel. +48 533 49 39 40 www.ChopinPASS.com

Tickets zł. 50 @ Pardon To Tu

Concert

Joe Satriani 18 Oct, 21:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Hailed as the only true successor of Jimi Hendrix, this guitar virtuoso has sold over 10 million albums and been nominated for 15 Grammys. He’s here to promote his latest album, Shockwave Supernova.

Tickets from zł. 140 @ eventim.pl

CONCERT

Diana Krall 20 Oct, 19:00 @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6A Tickets are selling out fast for this Canadian jazz diva, with songs from her 2015 studio album Wallflower expected to dominate the set list.

Chopin PASS The Fryderyk Chopin Institute, together with CityInfo, have launched a direct connection between Warsaw and Żelazowa Wola as part of a new project entitled ChopinPASS. This package includes admission to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions.

Taking the stress out of travel, the ChopinPASS allows fans of the composer to make the journey inside a comfortable 8-person minibus equipped with a mini-library of publications relating to the composer. Additionally, so that the trip proceeds in a pleasant atmosphere, passengers have the opportunity to listen to the compositions of Fryderyk Chopin.

Minibus trips to Żelazowa Wola and back run directly to the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw, and are available from Tuesday through till Sunday. On weekdays, the minibus makes one trip daily at 11:00 a.m.; on days when recitals are taking place in Żelazowa Wola, two trips are offered at 10:30 a.m. and at 1:00 p.m.

The Warsaw departure point for these is located at the Palace of Culture and Science (in the parking lot between the Congress Hall and Museum of Technology).

The cost of the ChopinPASS package is zł. 99 and visitors can purchase tickets at the box offices in the Palace of Culture and Science and the Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw, as well as online at: www.chopinpass.com

Tickets from zł. 249 @ eventim.pl

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What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town REFUGEE CRISIS IN NUMBERS!

800,000 Poles

Estimated to have moved to the UK since EU membership

127,000 Poles

Emigrated to the Middle East due to WWII

120,000 Refugees

To be shared accross the EU state

80,000 Refugees

Poland accepted from Chechnya in the ’90s

50,000

Anti-immigration protestors LOCAL

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

A Right Flare Up

Europe’s refugee crisis dominated the news agenda in Poland last month, with matters coming to a head on September 12th when a nationalist, anti-immigration rally drew a crowd of 7,000. The march, organized by the right wing ONR group, was allowed to go ahead in the capital in spite of safety concerns. It had been feared that a counter demonstration – attracting over 1,000 people – would be ambushed. A no-risk, heavy police presence deterred any immediate trouble, though later in the evening Falafel Bejrut found itself in the headlines after a right wing group attacked the cult venue with pepper spray.

Outraged locals mobilized in the aftermath, pledging to support the Lebanese owner: over the following days queues stretched outside as people gathered to show their backing. However, in the latest twist it’s been claimed that the intended target wasn’t the actual business, rather an Englishman who had earlier exchanged opinions with the thugs. The episode marks increasingly paranoid times. While former president Lech Wałęsa has promised to take in refugees under his own roof, others have been less welcoming – in the village of Janowice Wielkie police were called after a concerned resident spotted a band of illegal immigrants acting suspiciously. A document check later confirmed that the group were, in actual fact, Maltese sightseers in town for the day. (AW)

Were originally forecast to take part in the march

12,000 Refugees

That the EU is pushing Poland to take

6,263 Facebook likes

For the legendary Falafel Bejrut!

2,000 Refugees

The number the government is willing to accept

www.warsawinsider.pl

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bits n’ pieces

NATIONAL

NATIONAL

Lined with the busts of 40 Polish monarchs, Dom Pod Królami (ul. Hipoteczna 2) was completed in 1624 to serve as the home of the Crown Treasurer. In 1747 one of the first public libraries in Europe was opened here, though it was due to a chance discovery in the 19th century that the house got its name: 27 sculptures of Polish royalty were found in the basement, and in 1900 the decision was taken to add them to the façade. Rebuilt after the war, the building’s exterior now has a full chronological lineup of local regents.

A Polish firefighter came to the rescue of Paris Hilton after the socialite lost a diamond studded ring during a fleeting trip to Poland. Mieczyslaw Cieślarczyk, a fireman based at Łódź Airport, discovered the $350,000 ring on the floor of a van used to zip the heiress from her jet.

Unaware of its true value, Cieślarczyk first asked the flight attendants if they had lost something special, and it was only after those enquiries drew a blank that the penny finally dropped. For her part Hilton, now reunited with her bauble, has promised a substantial reward to Cieślarczyk. And that’s not the only lost and found story this month: two twins separated at birth have been reunited after 69 years apart.

George Skrzynecki and Lucjan Poznański were put up for adoption after their mother, who had survived a WWII labor camp, was deemed too ill to look after them. Skrzynecki, who settled in the States, tracked down his Polish-based brother with the help of the Red Cross. “You can’t change the past,” said Skrzynecki, “what matters is we’ve found each other.”

What’s That All About?

Lost & Found

ABROAD

A Bridge Gone Missing

A daring villain has been caught by police after a bridge went missing in Silesia. Posing as a licensed industrial contractor, the thief disassembled the 40-ton viaduct over two days before selling the metal to scrap dealers for zł. 40,000.

The swindler, who already has 17 convictions to his name, has been charged with fraud, theft and the destruction of property.

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PHOTOGRAPH TOP LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA, RIGHT SHUTTERSTOCK

inFront

Restaurant DomPolski

We invite you to our two locations.pl ul. Francuska 11 Ph. 22 616 2432 ul. Belwederska 18 A Ph. 22 840 5060 francuska@restauracjadompolski.pl belwederska@restauracjadompolski.pl www.restauracjadompolski.pl

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halloween ul. Niecała / ul. B. Prusa (Konstancin)

Night of the Living Dead A history of invasion and occupation has left Warsaw with a brutal, bloody legacy that makes the city you walk one of the world’s largest graveyards. With Halloween looming, we’ve used the opportunity take a deeper look at the bloodcurdling buildings where the unexplained happens…

Used in the post-war years by the NKVD, its alleged Soviet goons tortured locals in the basement before murdering them. This former police station is now visited by an executioner trapped between this world and the next, with experts speculating he wants to reveal the burial spots of his victims.

ul. Nowogrodzka 14

This one sounds like something out of Poirot: a glamorous actress with an obsession with death and a fondness for opium is shot through the heart by her toy boy lover. Haunting Nowogrodzka since her death in 1890, the specter of Maria Wisnowska is said to favor cheerful morning pranks rather than anything horrific.

The Citadel

Some claim that at dusk crows still gather at the Citadel’s Gate of Execution, ready to feed off the corpses that used to be left out to hang. The air around this Tsarist-era fortress / prison still feels heavy, and aside from ghostly gunshots and freaky screams, nighttime is said to attract practitioners of the black arts to the labyrinthine tunnels gouged into the ground.

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Otwock Sanatorium

Find the empty shell of an asylum complex in the dense forests around Otwock: the story involves pre-war electro-shock therapy, the mass murder of Jews during the war, Aryan-looking Polish kids being Germanized, and a nun that hung herself – all factors that make exploring this sprawling sanatorium seriously unsettling.

ul. Wilcza 2/4

Flowers wither, floors bleed and unseen women cackle: just a regular day on the first floor of Wilcza 2/4. Haunted by a banker who was murdered in 1915, other occurrences have included sightings of a baleful German officer wandering about.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Built in 1927 for Arpad Chowańczak, a ‘furrier to the stars’, the mansion at Morskie Oko 5 became a center point for subversive activities during the war. The area turned into a battle field in ’44, and it was in a lull in combat that a girl called Hanka strayed from the building to gather flowers for her lover. Picked off by a sniper’s bullet, her ghostly form is now said to appear on the balcony pining for her insurgent sweetheart. Now in its final stages of restoration, it’s a story worth considering before putting in a bid for the luxury apartments that will soon occupy this once derelict villa.

DOM WĂ“DKI is the first Polish restaurant to marry the idea of food and vodka pairings.

Find Poland’s rich culinary heritage carefully interwoven with centuries of artisan distilling expertise. Our modern understanding of classic recipes relies on regional produce and innovative techniques, while our high grade alcohol selection offers over 250 vodkas from cult brands. Surprise yourself and discover Poland anew!

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pets psieprawy.com. Prices begin at zł. 570 for a 5-hour course. For those working away, look to Asia (facebook. com/joannapetsitter) for a ‘dog hotel’ service. Lodgings are zł.

50 per night (plus food) with Asia stressing that your dog will not at any point be caged.

The Law

Owners of excessively noisy dogs can be arrested, fined or even imprisoned. While muzzles/leashes are not obligatory, failure to control your pooch can result in a zł. 250 fine. If you’re forest walking, your animal must be leashed at all times. Fines of up to zł.

500 can be issued for not cleaning up after your animal, and owners will be held liable should their dog cause any physical or material damage – liability insurance is advised.

Supplies

It started a couple of years ago, the nagging. Finally, in September, my armor cracked. Ok, I ceded to the Mrs, it’s time we became three. Stats estimate Warsaw is home to 120,000 dogs, and on September 10th, 2015 that number rose by one as we welcomed Bonnie into the household. For expats also looking to join the canine circle, here’s the brief…

Shelters

5,000 dogs await rehousing in Warsaw’s shelters, the most famous being Na Paluchu (napaluchu.waw.pl).

Also try schroniskojozefow.pl or psianiol.org.pl.

All animals will have had their shots and most

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will have been spayed/ neutered. Donations of food (especially puppy food) are greatly appreciated as a trade-off.

Trainers

Shelter dogs can be hard work: for an English-speaking

trainer Agnieszka Wojtków (660 473 348) is highly recommended and charges zł. 80 per session. For a wider choice, check dogadajciesie.pl. Get your dog socialized by joining the English-language training groups at

Social

For a vast list of dog-friendly venues have a sniff around pieswwarszawie.pl.

Insider favorites inc.

Limoni Canteri (doggy ice cream!), the specialist canine menu at Przegryź, Pardon To Tu bar for its attitude and the obstacle course at Wilanów Dog Park.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

A MAN’S BEST FRIEND

Check online stores such as pakazwierzaka.info, superdog.sklep.pl, warsawdog.com or sklep.doctordog. pl. All provide ample opportunity to spoil your pet. Beyond food and essentials, Bone Pet Club (petclub.pl) represents the ultimate pampering experience.

PUBLIC ART

Off The Wall

Built on the rubble of the Ghetto, the Muranów housing scheme is often perceived as a dull obituary to Poland’s communist nightmare. But leaps have been made to humanize the area, to add color and life to its bleak, somber blocks, and these efforts best manifest themselves in the murals that have bloomed on the walls and archways of this Orwellian estate…

(Clockwise from top left) The Immigrants (1) ul. Nowolipki 2A Unveiled in June of this year, The Immigrants aims to promote ‘intercultural dialogue’ and show the city as a crossroads of culture and differing beliefs – that’s juxtaposed against the moronic football / far right graffiti that appears in the vicinity from time to time.

Atom (2) ul. Nowolipki 11 Weird. Marie Curie-Skłodowska was raised nearby, and her scientific achievements are remembered by way of a lairy mural that clumsily demonstrates the forces of the universe. What you’re looking at, apparently, is the tree of life.

Musicians (3) ul. Nowolipki 9B Honoring the street musicians who once prowled the streets of Warsaw, the finer details of this artwork include banknotes fluttering in the wind: they’re a reference to the spare change locals would drop out of the windows to the buskers below.

Pencils (4) ul. Gen. Andersa 27 Dedicated to Janusz Korczak, a Polish-Jewish pediatrician and educator who was gassed in Treblinka along with the orphans in his care.

Recently restored after being attacked by vandals, the mural contains many of Korczak’s musings: for instance, “When a child laughs, so does the whole world.”

Dawne Leszno (5) Al. Solidarności 78 The pre-war past, when this street was known as Leszno, comes alive in a spate of pictures that depict different episodes from its history.

The old Femina theater, the Great Synagogue and the busy Pasażu Simonsa are all presented, as well as characters from the Ghetto such as Marek Edelman.

People of Solidarności (6) Al. Jana Pawła 44 The most surreal mural of the lot, People of Solidarności lauds not just the everyday local, but neighborhood heroes like singer Marysia Ajzensztadt (a.k.a ‘the Nightingale of the Ghetto’) and Bohdan Lachert – Muranów’s post-war architect. Find them flying on the wings of owls, storks, phoenixes…

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Solidarności

MEMORIES OF SOSNOWSKI (7) ul. Gen. Andersa 31 Born locally in 1924, footballer Zdzisław Sosnowski is a legendary figure amongst supporters of Polonia Warszawa. Styled like a film reel, this mural tells the story of his life, including Polonia’s emotional league title triumph in 1946. Deemed by the critics to be too dark and miserable, it had been slated for removal – the locals said NO!

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Ludwik Zamenhof, creator of the Esperanto language, spent much of his life in the area, and this jolly mural features a brief biography of the man. His wise, global outlook is celebrated by a quirky collection of characters that include Yoda, Einstein, and that donkey from Shrek, not to mention their definitive catchphrases translated into the lingo.

’44 LITTLE INSURGENT (9) ul. Lewartowskiego 2 Whacked onto the side of a primary school, this impressive piece of wall art commemorates the children who partook in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The ruins of the city stand in the background.

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

ZAMENHOF (8) ul. Nowolipki 4

Always something new Tables: +48 694 413 439 platinium@platiniumclub.pl 6, Fredy Street, Warsaw www.platiniumclub.pl /platiniumclubpl

Door selection www.warsawinsider.pl Dress code: casual elegant

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

INTERVIEW ARCHITECTURE

The Good, The Bad And The Ugly

Author, architect, critic and curator, Grzegorz Piątek is regarded as one of the foremost authorities on Polish architecture – we speak to him about his thoughts, hopes and fears for the capital…

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Define Warsaw’s architecture…

It’s a very contemporary town, so it can’t be measured against older cities. This is a 20th century city, with even our Old Town dating from the 1950s. I’d say the quality of life is generally very good, there’s lot of greenery, good transport and high-standard housing. That’s all a result of a very conscious change. We get nostalgic for old Warsaw but we have to remember that in the pre-war years the standard of living here was very low: it was filled with high density housing and the city lagged behind others in terms of things like electricity, running water, etc. The wartime destruction gave architects the chance to create a city that could work.

We threw the baby out along with the bathwater.

We went from having everything planned to nothing at all…

Do you have a favorite era?

I’m not a nostalgic person. I believe in the future. The obsession with rebuilding gets on my nerves. You have to move on: that applies in life and should apply to architecture as well. But if I was to pick a favorite era then I think what happened in Warsaw between the 30s and 60s was something of a golden age in terms of architecture. I think the 30s were the first time the city started thinking and putting effort into planning the city. Money was a constraint then, so it wasn’t until the 50s and 60s that many of the pre-war dreams were realized.

The architecture of that time doesn’t always get good publicity…

The problem with places like Pl. Konstytucji are their sheer scale. You always hear that the streets were specially built extra wide to accommodate parades, tanks and marches. That’s a good story, but these parades only happened twice a year. The real reasoning was to plan for the future. This was an era when cities like Brasilia were being built – architects were looking to the future which was all meant to be about the automobile. Now we’ve started to realize the negative impact cars have on a city.

How big a problem is that?

Warsaw is crazy about cars – I’ve read that there are more cars here than in Berlin. In the post-war years the city was designed for cars, but in the 1990s the dream that every household would own a car became a reality. But cars can kill a city – there’s a danger Warsaw will become an American-style city, like a donut with nothing in the center because it’s become too congested and inaccessible.

And the solution?

You need to cover both ends: discourage drivers from using their cars but offer them something in return – e.g. good public transport. We have a good system as it is, but it can be improved. And it’s vital the city plans new neighborhoods better so that residents don’t need to jump into a car every time they want to do something – if you look at some of the new suburbs they don’t even have schools or kindergartens. I sometimes feel that, after 1989, we threw the baby out along with the bathwater. We went from having everything planned to nothing at all. That’s

allowed the city to develop as a sum of independent parts – now we need to reconcile private interest with public interest.

These new neighborhoods you refer to, what are your thoughts on all the gated compounds springing up?

I recognize the importance of privacy and security but fencing off entire districts makes the city less practical.

It creates the need to drive – you can’t cut through these areas, you have to drive around them. Society, as well, is less coherent because of them. By cutting themselves off, they lose a sense of community.

What fears do you have for the city’s future?

Traffic – up to now the authorities haven’t had the courage to limit it. Also, the growing social divide that comes with the creation of gated communities. And finally, the city’s greenery is one of its greatest assets, yet it’s under constant assault from developers and planners. I agree that Warsaw needs to be denser both to add vibrance to the city and to shorten commuter times, but at the same time its greenery should be preserved.

Is there an area that excites you…

I’m rediscovering the Old Town – it’s such an obvious landmark but most people see it as just an area for tourists: a place where day trippers stop to have an ice cream.

But I think architecturally it’s very interesting, especially when you start viewing it as a reconstruction. Start off at the Heritage Interpretation Center on ul. Brzozowa to learn about the rebuilding process, and then have a walk around – you’ll look at the Old Town through completely new eyes.

Anything more recent that you like?

It’s not that new anymore, but the University Library in Powiśle is one of a kind. As a library it’s great to use, but then it’s also got that brilliant rooftop garden – it’s a very rare example of a building that’s both rated by architects and loved by the public. And I have a lot of time for the new Academy of Fine Arts buildings by JEMS – also in Powiśle. You assume that a glass and steel building would www.warsawinsider.pl

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INTERVIEW ARCHITECTURE

THE GOOD (Above left) The Academy of Fine Arts: “you expect it be quite severe, but it’s actually very warm, well-structured and has tremendous details.” The University Library: “A rare example of a building that’s both rated by the architects and loved by the public.”

be quite severe, but this is actually very warm, wellstructured and has tremendous detailing. The courtyard and lobby are open to all, and are filled with wonderful sculptures and incidental elements that just blend into the rest.

located in terms of scale when set against the rest of the neighborhood. Also, while I’m sure it’ll be a commercial success, I think its architectural details are poor and don’t live up to the ambition of the building. It’s a very average building inflated to the size of a landmark.

Is there anything that drives you mad about Warsaw’s architecture?

So if you could knock a building down, that’d be it?

In general our architects are good; they’re well-trained and now have the budgets and resources available to Western architects, so what irritates me is this lack of cohesion that Warsaw suffers from. It’s easy to point the finger at it, but Daniel Liebeskind’s Złota 44 project is a good example. It’s a pretentious building that doesn’t live up to the hype. On top of that, I’m skeptical why anyone would want to live in a sealed, air-conditioned compartment anyway. But my biggest disappointment is the Warsaw Spire. Its size alone makes a huge impact on the skyline, but I don’t think that’s the real problem.

Skyscrapers are quite exotic for Europe and, up to a point, the more towers that are built then the better a cityscape looks. What I don’t like about the Spire is that it’s badly

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The city is quite chaotic architecturally so I don’t think there’s any building that particularly damages it. I’ve got to admit the National Stadium shocked me, especially with that cheap looking façade, but I’ve grown used to it now. Also, there’s that TVN building on the corner of Marszałkowska and Hoża – just horrendous. That black glass cladding was out of fashion before that project was even completed. But really, I don’t think there’s any single building that really ruins the city, we just need more regulation.

Which building would bring back from the dead…

The old railway station. It was nearly completed in 1939, burned and bombed the same year, repaired in 1940, then

THE BAD (Above left) The Warsaw Spire: “It doesn’t live up to its own ambition – it’s an average building

that’s inflated to the size of a landmark.” TVN building: “Just horrendous – the black glass cladding was out of fashion before the building was even finished!”

totally destroyed in 1944. It was something of an Art Deco beauty, reminiscent of the elegant stations you sometimes find in Italy. When it was first being built the press dubbed it ‘the Palace of the Unknown Passenger’ and I think that says it all. But as much as I regret its loss, I see no reason to rebuild it on a 1:1 scale.

And finally, your thoughts on PKiN? I’ve got a love / hate relationship with it. I’m happy that it’s been placed under protection, but at the same time I think it’s tasteless, conspicuous and arrogant. It’s a hypocritical building: a skyscraper that pretends to be a palace, a steel structure that pretends it’s not… On a functional level it’s flawed in the way it turns its back on the city – even finding the main entrance is a challenge. But it’s now part of our history and can’t be evaluated under the rules we have for contemporary buildings. The question is how to make the area around it more functional. I look forward to seeing the museum of modern art being built around it, but I’m not overly keen on just filling the area with buildings.

It’s not the lack of buildings that make PKiN a challenge, but its inaccessibility. The area is an island.

Essential Reading ŻOL, MOK Two beautifully illustrated architecture guides to the neighborhoods of Żoliborz and Mokotów. More districts will be covered in the future!

Warsaw Modern by Czesław Olszewski A collection of pictures by the most prominent architecture photographers of the 1930s.

Warsaw by David Crowley Essays on 20th century Warsaw as seen by the esteemed British art historian.

ARPS A monograph of Arseniusz Romanowicz and Piotr Szymaniak, the architect duo responsible for Warsaw’s train stations – complete with over 200 illustrations.

Do It In Warsaw An alternative guide to Warsaw and its vibrant art, design, fashion and restaurant scene.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH PLAC BANKOWY

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Breaking the Bank-owy

Everyone passes through it, and usually without much second thought. But Pl. Bankowy has a background every bit as gripping as Warsaw’s more celebrated squares…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

www.warsawinsider.pl

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“Although our libraries are burning, although the hospitals are burning, the city of Warsaw, defending the honor of Poland, has never been greater than today…”

Stefan Starzyński, the incumbent Mayor during the Siege of Warsaw, will forever be remembered for his inspirational oratory during the city’s darkest days.

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escribed by one architect as a ‘tarmac desert punctuated by tram stops’, Pl. Bankowy belies its own grandiose name.

Those envisaging a historic banking quarter instead discover a sprawl of traffic encased within a haphazard assembly of buildings with little consistency connecting one to the other. In a city characterized by indiscriminate planning, this square is perhaps the most spasmodic of them all.

This was not always so. Conceived in the early 19th century, Pl. Bankowy was actually born as a triangle: cited as one Warsaw’s finest districts, pre-war photos depict cobbled roads flanked by elegant institutions. After the devastation of WWII, only two sides were rebuilt, the street widened and its original triangle shape squeezed and molded into a rectangle. Presto, you have what you see now. But don’t let its arbitrary nature fool you, nor its reputation as simply a thoroughfare. While its importance as an artery is indisputable, there’s more to Bankowy than often meets the eye…

THE EAST SIDE

If Bankowy looks unsynchronized and top-heavy then the primary culprit is ‘the Blue Tower’. One hundred and twenty meters in height, construction began during the ’60s, though was suspended once the bottom fell out of the Polish economy. Making the ongoing saga of Złota 44 look insignificant in comparison, the tower’s steel skeleton loomed over the rest of the square for years; in all, the building took a staggering 26 years to finish before being officially opened in 1992.

An enduring legend has it that this was only after a rabbi lifted a curse that had been placed on the land.

Previously, the plot had been occupied by the Great Synagogue, a house of worship that had been the center of Warsaw’s pre-war Jewish community. Built in the 1870s to a design by Leandro Marconi, its vast interiors

held over 3,000 worshippers, making it one of the largest synagogues in the world. Its end came in 1943 after the Jewish Ghetto Uprising had been crushed by the Nazis. In celebration, it was dynamited after the collapse of Jewish resistance with General Jurgen Stroop personally detonating the charges. “What a marvelous sight it was,” he wrote, “a fantastic piece of theater.” But while it’s widely reported that a rabbi later hexed the site, there’s little to suggest this was actually the case.

Hidden behind the tower, the area’s Judaic past is commemorated in the often-overlooked Jewish Historical Institute. Found on Tłomackie 3/5, it’s far removed from the shine and dazzle of the high profile Polin museum. Home to ‘the underground archive of the Warsaw Ghetto’, this dusty foundation is also noted for compelling exhibitions presented in the traditional manner. Devoid of the crowds that pile into Polin, it offers a far more private experience and comes highly recommended.

Switching back to the front of the Blue Tower, pedestrians won’t fail to pass the statue of Stefan Starzyński poring over a map. While the artistic merit of the sculpture has been questioned, Starzyński himself occupies a place in the heart of every true local. As the Mayor of Warsaw, it was under his watch that the National Museum came to fruition, 44 schools were opened, and over two million kilometers of roads built. For all that, he is best remembered for rallying Warsaw during the 1939 invasion. With the city under siege, his rousing broadcasts united the town. Arrested after a week after Warsaw fell, an investigation conducted last year concluded that he was shot by the Gestapo in December ’39.

The least said about the rest of the East side, the better.

Originally post-war plans had mooted the development of a pedestrianized area interspersed with greenery, and a small square framed by low-level apartments. Instead, what Bankowy ended up with was an eyesore of a block.

Move along please. www.warsawinsider.pl

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NEIGHBORHOOD WATCH PLAC BANKOWY

“Poland! You are still deceived by baubles; you were a nation of peacocks and parrots, now you are the handmaid of other people…”

Juliusz Słowacki, one of the key figures of the Polish Romantic movement, often spoke with prophetic clarity about Poland’s situation.

THE WEST SIDE

Passing a forest of traffic lights, cross to the other side and be confronted by the officious form of City Hall. Sketched out by Antonio Corazzi, the one-time treasury building is where a young Juliusz Słowacki worked as a trainee clerk.

Along with Mickiewicz and Krasiński he would later go on to become one of the three bards of Polish literature, and a patriotic voice for the nation at a time of 19th century Tsarist repression. That’s his statue outside. Looking oddly vampire-like, the monument stands on the plinth where Feliks Dzierżyński once posed. Dzierżyński, who rose to command the Soviet secret police in the ’20s, had this whole square named after him during Communist times, and the 1989 toppling of his statue was seen as a landmark event.

The Corazzi influence extends all the way down the Western side, with the domed structure on the corner once serving as the Stock Exchange when it was unveiled in 1828. Rebuilt in 1954, the succeeding decades saw it function as a museum documenting The Polish Revolution, before being handed over for its current use: The Museum of the Collection of John Paul II. Visitors should forget the late Pope, as the dark exhibition is actually a compilation of works amassed by Janina and Zbigniew Carroll-Porczyński. Featuring 450 impressionist pieces, represented artists include Renoir, Rembrandt and Rubens. So why the lack of visitors? That’s explained by the provenance of the art. Some are proven forgeries, yet more can only be attributed to the workshops of these masters, and not the artists themselves. Nonetheless, poke around, the startled museum attendant looks like he hasn’t had human contact for years…

THE SOUTH

A recent refit led by Allan Starski (who won an Oscar for his part in the set design on Schindler’s List) has restored

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Pl. Bankowy 1 back to its best. The courtyard, with its brickwork and stacked, metal fire escapes, is reminiscent of brownstone New York, and the revamped building home to the Der Elefant restaurant, not to mention several high-end enterprises such as a celebrity barber.

Find it attached to the conspicuously ugly Teatr Capitol, which back in the day was where the Society of PolishSoviet Friendship was domiciled – look carefully by the entrance for a mosaic / mural featuring one of the few hammer and sickles to survive the iconoclasm of the ’89 transformation. Nearby, Teresa Brzóskiewicz’s white, wavy monument symbolizes the Wisła and the Volga, and the matey connection between PL and what was Soviet Russia. Unveiled in 1985, today it’s greatly appreciated by the skateboarders who’ve turned the landmark into their unofficial stunt park.

THE NORTH

Back to the other end you go, and across Solidarności.

Positioned by Kino Muranów, the mint colored fountain is another element that’s been restored of late. Featuring detailing by Leandro Marconi, it’s led a merry-goround existence. First erected in 1866 on Krakowskie Przedmieście, it made way for the Mickiewicz statue in 1897, only to pop-up again in the center of Pl. Bankowy in 1910. It survived the war, but didn’t fit into the redevelopment plans made for the plac, and was thus shifted again to its current location. Complete your route by dipping through the underpass and emerging by the junk food pavilion on the other side.

Constructed in 1967, where KFC now resides was once home to the Gruba Kaśka snack bar. When it was first opened, it was lauded as a social focal point. “The bar serves hot meals and beer,” gushed the press at the time, “and most people visit to eat baked beans in tomato sauce.” Arguably, it’s gone backwards ever since…

www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL POZNAŃ

WALK THIS WAY

Once known as a sensible business city, Poznań has become the embodiment of youth and creativity. The Insider goes West to see the town’s changing face…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

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www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL POZNAŃ

ove at first sight? Not a chance. When I first visited Poznań, I was struck by how dreary it all was. That would have been 12 or 13 years ago, and I was in town to write a guidebook. By day I’d walk around the colorless city, bored rigid by its dank museums, while at night I’d sit in near-empty bars staring glumly at my drink.

With a budget that was actually more of a budget deficit, even my hotel was miserable: a communist fossil where everything was brown – including the tap water. By the time the trip was up, my notebook was largely filled with suicide notes that blamed everything on Poznań. Bastard place.

It’s come on since those days. Unlike Warsaw, it really hasn’t grown much taller, but the changes have been every bit as rapid. You notice that arriving. No more do platforms lead down into stained and sweaty tunnels, today’s station sucks people into the kind of arcing glass structure you’d expect at Cape Canaveral. And it’s user-friendly, maybe too userfriendly. Pausing for just a moment alerts the attention of bright, young attendants dressed in satsuma colors.

It’s their cue to spring into action: “are you lost,” they enquire, “where do you need to go?”

Seeing that they’re asking, I’m headed to the hotel. In terms of prestige, the Blow-Up Hall 5050 was once described by The Guardian as being ‘the most futuristic hotel in the world’. Funded by billionaire Grażyna Kulczyk, it dubs itself ‘an interactive art piece’, though with prices starting at zł. 450 I’ve chosen somewhere else.

The Puro, at half that amount, is a smart alternative with a lobby that looks like something from the pages of Dwell magazine: vibrant pops of color, striking artwork and shelves sprinkled with eclectic items accrued from design stores. Even my room – the most basic on offer – is a treat: a touchscreen tablet to ‘control the environment’, a glass-walled bathroom, and a bed that’s marshmallow soft.

I’m tempted to turn off the phone and stay put for the night.

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Old Town Square

But doing so would be an error, not least with Chmielnik just yards away. Set on Żydowska, a street once known for its twee, dainty cafes, it’s part of a new wave of bars that have revolutionized The ’Nan: achieving a warm, nocturnal mood through its combination of copper, salvaged wood and exposed brick, not even the capital boasts a better designed tap room. Of course, this is just the beginning, and having met with friends the night veers into a high-charged haze that sees us triumphantly conquer every pub in our path. A crescendo is reached in Ministerstwo, which in spite of its traditional beer hall aesthetic at times feels like a crucible of creativity: next to us, handsome neo-geeks are designing craft beer labels on the back of a sodden beer mat, while outside our cigarette break is given added energy by the muddled musings of a graffiti artist named Gem. “I make walls tell the truth,” she slurs somewhat threateningly.

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eeling vile the next day is not an option, nowadays there’s just too much to see. To clear my head I make the walk to Park Cytadela, whose features include a Commonwealth cemetery in which Allied soldiers shot after The Great Escape lie buried. Earning its name from the 19th century fortress that stands in the grounds, the park is heavy with military history, so relief comes by

way of an artistic installation by the internationally acclaimed Magdalena Abakanowicz. ‘The Unrecognized’ presents 112 headless figures, each two meters tall, packed tightly together but straying in different directions. “What is man,” asks the work, “who are we and what direction are we heading?”

South East is the answer, specifically to Brama Poznania, an ultramodern exhibition (“this is NOT a museum,” shouts the PR bumf) that tells the story of the nearby Cathedral Island – recognized by all as the ancient cradle of the Polish State.

With no actual artefacts on display, the space unfurls into a multimediadriven experience that takes visitors past illuminated boards filled with information not to mention a beautiful model of the earliest settlement.

The concept is brave, the architecture stunning and the subject matter interesting, but I leave feeling completely perplexed: it’s as if the treatment of history has been passed from the historian to the IT consultant. It just doesn’t sit right.

Back across the river, the 1956 Uprising Museum deals much better in its handling of the past. Set inside a castle built in 1905 for Kaiser Wilhelm II (and subsequently remodeled

by Hitler’s darling architect, Albert Speer), it follows a similar approach to Warsaw’s Rising ’44 Museum: plenty of interactive elements and dioramas, but also real substance to

Chmielnik

Cyryl

Puro Hotel

back up the frills and flash. And this is no less than the topic deserves.

Honoring the first armed resistance that the Polish Communist party faced, this revolt was brutally pacified with scores killed by the security services. Among their number was a 13-year old boy named Romek Strzałkowski, and his bloodied shirt and personal effects make for a deeply poignant moment of reflection.

Not all of Poznan’s sights are as serious, and that much becomes clear at the Croissant Museum. Based around a cooking demonstration, the experience is led by a pair of jokers whose rapid fire banter is interfused with fast facts and comic asides.

Audience participation is mandatory, so don’t be surprised to find yourself slashing at dough with a medieval sword. As it transpires, it’s also the best place in town to see the Poznań goats: appearing at noon, these Poznań mechanical animals emerge from the Warsaw Renaissance town hall clock tower before smashing heads together. So the legend has it, in 1511 a pair of goats destined for the cauldron managed to escape the town hall kitchen and cavorted up the tower. Such was the public’s amusement, a pair of mechanized creatures were later added for posterity.

ESSENTIALS With that over and done with, Puro Hotel en.purohotel.pl thoughts turn to food, and as Blow Up Hall 5050 blowuphall5050.com enjoyable as the take-home samples Cyryl cyrylcoffee.pl provided by the Croissant Museum Warto nad Warą wartonadwarta.pl are, they won’t last the day. The gridBrama Poznania bramapoznania.pl like Old Town is honeycombed with Croissant Museum rogalowemuzeum.pl eateries, but for the best deals I folPoznań City Info poznan.travel low the advice of the locals and head further afield. While dining out was once a hazardous pursuit, what was formerly a minefield has now become a dinefield: Warto nad Wartą is typical of the restaurants / hangouts the last few years have harvested, with a menu that’s modern, thoughtful and focused on nature. Same goes for Cyryl, a laidback bistro whose brand of quick, healthy cooking is as enticing as the servers. Pretending to peel through a book, I eavesdrop on attractive in-love couples and important sounding lawyers discussing due diligence reports. Inching through a bottle of wine, conversations whirring around me, I allow myself the fantasy that just by being here I’ve become part of the fabric that makes modern Poznań. It’s a feeling, I decide, that I like very much... www.warsawinsider.pl

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LISTINGS RESTAURANTS 42 CAFES & WINE BARS 69 NIGHTLIFE 72 SHOPPING 79 FAMILY 82 HEALTH & BEAUTY 87 IN THE CITY 90

Mexican Rave

You expect heavenly moments with an angel in the kitchen, but that’s not to say Mexican chef Angel Aceves doesn’t have a wicked streak – that much is evidenced with his signature MF salsa (any guesses what those initials stand for?), an unpredictable atom bomb of heat and fire. It’s a sauce with that special little something: hot like lightning, but with the kind of kick that keeps you wanting more – a perfect condiment for Angel’s expert tacos and chunky guacamole.

In a country still struggling to get to grips with the Mexican kitchen, El Popo’s longevity isn’t some fluke: first opened in the early 90’s, it’s the addictive restaurant that Warsaw just can’t live without…

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

El Popo ul. Senatorska 27, kregliccy.pl/elpopo

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2015

TOP SHOT Brilliant Boczek gets a facelift at MOD by chef Trisno Hamid

WHAT WE ATE:

Kevin (art director) MOD might be known for its donuts, but their restaurant arm is also great – I loved the boczek.

Alex (editor) My special treat this month was Nolita: an electrifying experience with the aged beef fillet leaving me in a swoon.

Morten (publisher) I enjoy sitting outside Muu Muu with no buildings or umbrellas blocking the last of the sunshine.

Vestal

A 5+ rating from spirits expert Simon Gifford (the equivalent of a 100/100 score on the Robert Parker wine index) isn’t to be sniffed at, so it’s no bombshell to find Vestal being namechecked as the best vodka in the world. And as if to qualify this, find a distribution list carefully focused around only the best venues in the capital: Atelier Amaro, Dom Wódki, Bar & Books, etc. Launched in 2010 by New Zealander and former war correspondent John Borrell and his son Will, Vestal specialize in small batches of young potato vintages distilled just the once so as to ‘capture and retain all the exotic aromas and tastes’ of the different terroirs that the potatoes hail from. Simply put, this premium product will change the way you think about vodka.

For info, see: vestalvodka.com

Top Lunch Deal!

Fed up of hearing why the hell they ever stopped doing them, Kaskrut (ul. Poznańska 5) have bowed to public pressure and revived their lunch deals. Serving from 1 p.m. to 4:30 p.m. Tuesday through Friday, their soup/salad/main combo is the best zł. 29 you’ll spend.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

Opening Shots

A new restaurant turns Polish food – and vodka – on its head…

i

admit, when told about Dom Wódki I wasn’t too enthused.

I know, thought clever clogs here, it’ll be one of those cutprice shot bars filled with howling students and toilets greased in vomit. Stupid me. The first surprise is the place itself, a dashing interior that causes you to stop, look and touch.

On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with dashes of copper.

Shocker No. 2: yes, it does function as a bar, but that’s just one string to the bow. The buzz is as much about the food, and for that you have chef Michał Tkaczyk to thank. Recruited from the Bristol Hotel, his menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style: the kind of food you find in a Polish home, he says, but interpreted with a modern eye. Hearing this, I want to scoff.

Polish dishes, and everyone knows, aren’t naturally attractive.

You can’t put lipstick on a pig. Well in this case you can. I’ll cite the golonka as an example. Wherever I’ve had it, it’s always been the same: a glob of pig fat attached to a dinosaur bone – your heart flutters. But in this case it flutters for the right reasons: there is no bone, there is no fat, just glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a creamy cabbage mousse.

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But I’m getting ahead of myself. If that’s the main, then the starters have been equally remarkable: beef tartare with sour cucumber jelly, and a vinegary pork knuckle with mustard dressing. This is a kitchen with the confidence to toss the rulebook out the window and rethink Polish cuisine. And as for dessert, hold onto your hats, for this is one big detonation of sin: roasted apple slices, bison grass ice cream and apple juice caviar.

Forgetting my surrounds, I’m left gushing, my praise thick with expletives: but I have the right, for outstanding just doesn’t do it justice.

Of course, the sense of elation has been assisted by the vodka.

This is a drink that sends me psychotic, though here it’s top quality and served in measures that don’t turn you loopy. Procured from boutique distilleries, the drinks are paired against the dishes in a way that’s beneficial to both the taste and the mood.

You leave glowing, with the warm, fuzzy feeling that all is good in the world – and that’s the sign of a rather brilliant place. (AW) Dom Wódki

ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS Sweet Spot

A fruit and nut based Armenian confectionary that satisfies hankerings for the sweeter side of life.

Contents include a personalized selection of Armenian goods to fill the winter pantry, as well as Java Coffee bean coffee and fine Asian teas. You’ll also find owner Irina Urumova setting up shop at the biweekly Bio Bazar on Żelazna.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

À Nouche ul. Mokotowska 8, a-nouche.com

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BREWERY WATCH:

Kraftwerk

The Brewery: established in 2014, Kraftwerk claim to be the first contract brewery in Upper Silesia, and as such take their duties as ambassadors for the region seriously. Their manifesto announces their beer as aimed at experimental types looking for new challenges: “beer shouldn’t just be sweet and clear!”

The Beer: has been hit and miss. Their lightly smoked Rauch Alt won almost blanket praise amongst nerds, though the unspectacular Dziwok summer ale fared less well – and that’s in spite of the craziest bottle design Poland’s ever seen (think: a Koala on a tropical island being circled

by U-boats and sharks!).

Instead, look for Zmora, a rye pale ale released in August featuring a citrusy taste and vague smoky hints. And the label? A hairy ram tottering on high heels. Nice!

b

More or Less

Big portions and subtle flavor at veggie city

ack when Vegemiasto was found on Chmielna I used to build my plans for the day around their pesto potato wedges: a simple dish that was so fresh and punchy I’d fight over the last morsels with whoever was alongside me.

Now located by the Museum of Independence, I was looking forward to reviving my love affair only to find those wedges were no longer on the menu – argh!

Wary of the wait times associated with their previous venture, and with an office lunch mob starting to gather, I made an off-the-cuff order of cudak on the basis of my liking of tempeh. Clearly, the kitchen’s time management has improved, because even with a baying crowd before them my order was quickly delivered. What hasn’t changed is the overall quality. Mild in flavor, with subtle nutty hints, this potato dish comes loaded with cashew and almond tofu, tempeh and a gooey walnut cheese sauce: delicious.

Twenty-nine złoty for that, though those looking for shortcuts and savings should aim their barrels at the lunch special – zł.

25 for a main and soup, or zł. 20 without the soup.

And leave the card at home, here’s one of the dwindling number of places that deal in cash alone. (KD) Vegemiasto

ul. Solidarności 60A, vegemiasto.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Smashing Pumpkins

There’s a positive energy about Focaccia, and while its soothing design takes a portion of credit, it’s chef Łukasz Toczka that steals the show. His modern Italian menu is full of surprises, and that’ll be especially true in October when he’ll be turning pumpkins into something to remember.

Focaccia ul. Senatorska 13/15

Going Green

Amber Autumn

Mushrooms

Be edgy, go veggie! As of October 1st Hard Rock Café will be revealing a new meatless menu catering to vegetarians and vegans. Running for a limited time, the menu presents dishes such as the Quinoa Burger, Black Bean Wrap and Tofu / Ginger Salad.

There’s a seasonal revamp in store at Amber Room, with chef Robert Skubisz introducing 20 new dishes to the menu.

We’re told the beef tenderloin with veal sweetbreads, mushroom puree, potato and spinach will, in particular, be one to watch.

Coinciding with chanterelle season, Oliva will be presenting a couple of deals that are worth picking out: chanterelles in mascarpone sauce (zł. 26) and a chanterelle risotto with Grana Padano (zł. 36). A flute of bubbles comes included in the price tag.

Hard Rock Café ul. Złota 59

Amber Room Al. Ujazdowskie 13

Oliva ul. Ordynacka 10/12

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2015

Shaken Not Stirred

A bar fit for Bond opens in the Old Town…

O

pened to coincide with the 25th anniversary of their first outpost, the Bar & Books empire sees Warsaw added to their locations in Prague and New York. There’s an enchanting quality about the new venture that arouses curiosity: seen through an autumnal mist, this pristine townhouse radiates warmth.

Lights glimmer, piano music tinkles – you want to find out more. Wood-paneled and lined with leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense of dignity that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail scene. There’s humor, as well, and not just provided by the portraits of chimps togged out like gentry: once a month, Burlesque performances revive the past. Even on quieter nights, B&B’s talent lies in their ability to unplug you from Warsaw. With its cigars and whiskies, the impression is of stepping into a members’ only Mayfair bar. Look, you expect someone to point, that’s Prince Harry’s ex-girlfriend. For sure, you’d happily take her here. Certainly for the cocktails: classic with a twist, find them mixed and muddled by charming bartenders who you’d trust serving Bond – and yes, find him here as well, keeping a watchful eye from a screen that loops silent 007 films around the clock…

Bar and Books ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Pa N rtn ew er s

All In The Detail…

In the heart of Warsaw, Winestone is making the little things count…

I

t’s all about the details. Even before a meal lands, you can tell a lot about a restaurant from the contents of the bread basket – that’s the law of first impressions. And sure, while the art of baking is enjoying a local resurgence, that’s rarely evident in the actual restaurants of Warsaw. So take a look at Winestone: the result of a five-day fermentation process, the bread here is a thing of beauty – a satisfying, crunchy crust, and a deep flavor that’s heightened by the surprisingly herby hit of the Dukkah dip. “We’ve sold one million breads since launching,” smiles Paweł Anders, “enough to stretch around the world six times.”

Educated at the esteemed Lenotre culinary academy, Anders is the heart, mind and soul behind Winestone.

Launched in 2013, his creation has since been rolledout and replicated in Mercure hotels around Poland – and beyond. No wonder. Evolving beyond a mere hotel-based ‘restobar’, Winestone’s triumph lies in achieving a balance between lodgers from upstairs and repeat local custom.

Why do they come? The bread of heaven aside, it’s a question best answered by Anders himself: “Our approach is simple,” he says, “Winestone is about atmosphere, affordability and quality. We’re here to fulfil expectations – even if you don’t know what you want, we’ll work it out and give you what you want.”

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And yes, the atmosphere is key. Not here the departure lounge ambiance of your typical hotel, instead find a finely tuned interior designed to convey different moods: a communal table, sofas, high chairs – all splitup creating a range of nooks and corners in which to dally and dwell. Big on solid wood and natural stone, it’s a place that adopts a buzzy mood and a contemporary vibe while never being loud and ‘in your face’.

Of course, wine is also an inescapable factor. Taking prominence by the entrance is the wine corner, its diverse choice deviating from the expected standards.

“I don’t want catalogue wine you can find everywhere else,” says Anders, “I want wine with a story.” And that story tastes so much better with a seasonally influenced menu composed of light planches and more hefty offers – the bridge between the two being ingredients that speak of integrity and truth. Whether it’s acorn-fed Belotta ham, a classic club sandwich, or more complex French-inspired offers, this is cuisine that is attractive, accessible and always authentic.

And with so much available to go, there’s never a problem taking a piece of Winestone home…

Winestone ul. Złota 48/54 (Mercure Warszawa Centrum), mercure.com ul. Krucza 28 (Hotel Mercure Warszawa Grand)

Croatian Ace

Enjoy flashbacks of your Croatian holiday in Papalina, a unique restaurant that prides itself on the wealth of its fish and seafood offer. Serving the best regional Croatian cheeses and meat, the kitchen sticks determinedly to traditional methods of cooking to ensure that everything guests taste is as authentic as possible.

Lightening the mood further are a selection of Croatian spirits and wines, including those from the Krauthaker winery – rated by Wine magazine as ‘excellent’.

Papalina Al. KEN 53, papalina.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED Best of Warsaw Award Winner

BARN SMOQUE (ul. Zgoda 5, barnsmoque.pl) Okay, so 2015 won’t be remembered as the year of the grill house, but Warsaw is getting there. From the owners of Barn Burger comes Barn Smoque, a casual eatery decorated with number plates and… portraits of pigs dressed for the office. The menu is all about meat and fire, with dishes like wings, ribs, steaks and brisket. Don’t leave without sampling the Fuck Crack Bacon: grilled bacon in beer batter with a side of jalapeno / BBQ salsa.

african american asian balkan & russian british burgers cheap eats cooking schools cuban french georgian german greek & turkish indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish latin & mexican middle eastern polish scandinavian specialty shops steak houses thai whole foods

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Insider writers do not accept any form of payment in return for favorable reviews.

POGROMCY MEATÓW (ul. Koszykowa 1) Remember when Meat Love opened? Remember how the city went crazy for it? Expect those scenes to be repeated with Pogromcy Meatów, a dashing, glass-fronted spot with chessboard colors and gleaming surfaces. But no one is here to admire the interiors, they’re here for a selection of to-die-for, meaty sandwiches: find piles of beef cheek and veal tongue leaking out of artisan buns slathered in homemade, top secret sauces. Think of it as the best thing to ever happen to Koszykowa!

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african Abyssinia Rynek Nowego Miasto 2, abyssinia.pl As it transpires, there’s one way of serving the mains, and it’s truly ingenious: on injera, a spongy flatbread that’s used to scoop up the food. Basically, you eat the plate.

Brilliant. And yes, the Ethiopian choices are

listings / restaurants marvelous: meat and fish dishes served in curry-like sauces with heaps of onions, garlic and ginger. The tastes are strange, alien and immediately addictive. $$

tacos not to mention Mito’s Beef Ribs and 100% beef dogs. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings: they’re loved by many. $$

Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

Champions Sports Bar (D5) Marriott Hotel, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – wherever you look (aside from under the table), there’s a TV. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t fault their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$

La MaMa Africa (C1) ul. Andersa 23, tel. 22 226 3505, lamama.eu Things we like: African Star beer and the traditional stews. Things we don’t like: the goat meat. But that’s not a criticism of the cooking, rather an admission we don’t like goats in general – dead or alive. Those who don’t fancy experimenting with gizzards and heads make do with dishes like yam porridge or sweet and spicy coconut rice. It’s the very definition of casual, and something of a focal point for Warsaw’s African community. $$

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434 Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh

Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Meat Inn (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 794 158 831 So many have tried to make this hole-inthe-wall work, but none have had a better a

chance than Meat Inn. Late weekend opening hours (till 4 a.m.), a set-up next to umpteen tap bars and a menu of hefty burgers, honeyglazed ribs and New York hot dogs all but guarantee pushing crowds of swaying night owls. Importantly, you’d be happy to return the morning after. $ Sticky Fingers ul. Marszałkowska 4, tel. 880 763 617, stickyfingersbbq.pl The menu, that’s printed on some crinkly brown paper, and starts with breakfast pancakes before taking you past a tidy series of burgers and wings – amongst them an ‘Ultra Hot’ version smothered in Mad Dog sauce. We ordered the roast beef and found it fine if nothing special. While it might not be the BBQ restaurant that Warsaw’s waiting for, it’s a decent enough addition to the neighborhood. $

asian Bliss Restaurant (D2) Rynek Mariensztacki, tel. 22 826 3210, blissrestaurant.pl Longevity aside, Bliss (alive since ’95) boast classically cliche interiors that make dramatic use of dragons and buddhas. Inconsistent accuse some, though you’ll struggle to find better Chinesestyle ribs. $$ Canton (B2) ul. Smocza 1, tel. 22 838 3823, canton. warszawa.pl Here’s what Chinese restaurants

ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 97 07 www.cesarski-palac.com.pl At Cesarski Pałac our aim is to showcase authentic Chinese cuisine by using excellent and experienced chefs from China. Established in 1994, our 60-seater restaurant also has an additional 14-seater private room for meetings and functions.

The elegant interiors and excellent cuisine are considered hallmarks of our top class restaurant.

Especially recommended is our Sechuan goulash, beef served from the hot plate and Peking Duck.

Our waiters are happy to ensure that the wine you choose matches the dish.

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listings / restaurants used to look like in the days of Bruce Lee: filled with dragons and lanterns, this place is an outright assault on your sensory system.

Wokking away for over a decade, it’s actually not a bad place if you want an MSG booster.

The Gong Bao chicken gets approval. $$ Cesarski Pałac (D2) ul. Senatorska 27, tel. 22 827 9707, cesarskipalac.com A rouge tinted Chinese restaurant whose design even incorporates a footbridge. Widely acclaimed, this 18-year-old restaurant combines Sichuan and Cantonese cuisine to serve a variety of dishes

in an elegant backdrop. The Dim Sum are something else. $$ Choila ul. Zajączka 25, choila.pl Perhaps not the most convenient location, but that hasn’t stopped this Żoliborz eatery earning rave reviews from the off. Chef Samika Thapa presents the dishes of Nepal and the Himalayas, with her Mo Mo stuffed dumplings earning real recognition. Look out as well for the Choila – grilled pieces of pork with onion and coriander in a spicy sauce that’s heavy with pepper and garlic. $$ Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) multiple locations, duzamiha.pl A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Papaya (E4) ul. Foksal 16, tel. 22 826 1199, papaya. waw.pl A place of precise lines and slick finishes, Papaya has a varied menu that uses influences from all over Asia, though particularly Thailand. But the star attraction is Preecha Wongsomboon, a Thai chef who fuses cookery with cabaret from behind a teppanyaki grill – his skills draw gasps. But between the honking horns and nifty knife work it becomes clear this is no novelty show: the food is top notch. $$

Because Warsaw Just Got Hotter Classic Indian Cuisine With A Funky Twist ul. Zurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, www.rain.pl

Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, tel. 535 333 123, patera.com.pl The center pin is a semi-circular bar, above which lamps hang from a ceiling made out of old Coca-Cola crates. There’s palm fronds, mismatching seats, cheerful colors, exposed pipes and industrial chains. Sacks of Haruka rice adorn one end, and on the other there’s floor-to-ceiling windows. It feels right, as does the food – a confident combination of sushi and Thai. We ordered fried beef, and were dealt a generous portion full of pleasing, punchy tastes, sticky rice and a deep, aromatic sauce. Just as good is the green tea ice cream, both cleansing and delicious. $$ Pekin Duck ul. Drawska 29A, tel. 22 412 8988, pekinduck.pl Looks like a typical Chinese – i.e., like a 1980s New Year’s Eve ball – and

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the service is carnage; expect lots of miscommunication and truculent attitude.

The food isn’t bad, though it’d be interesting to know how many pigs feet they actually ever sell. $$ Shabu Shabu Hot Pot (D6) ul. Mokotowska 27, tel. 535 685 750, shabu-shabu.pl Each table has its own set of hot pots installed and once you choose your broth and extras, you are the master of your own culinary destiny. We chose some seafood and some greens and were served a dish that was not quite a pad thai, but incredibly tasty all the same. A simple meal, but satisfying nonetheless. $$ Silk & Spicy (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $ Yummy (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 797 830 639, restauracjayummy.pl Formerly something of an Insider favorite, recent changes have not been for the better. Sure, we can live with the remodeled cut-price interior (turn the lights down, could you?), but the food? That’ll remind you of the nasty little Asian cabins that were once so prolific about town: greasy, gloopy and cloying. $

balkan & russian Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible.

But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet

listings / restaurants ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril.

Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka. pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$

Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, papalina.pl A warm, wood-heavy space with regional cheeses and sausages alongside grilled meats, wine from the Krauthaker vineyard and a particularly good choice of seafood.

This is Croatian food cooked exactly as you remember it from holiday. $$ U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures. $ Yugo (B4) ul. Sienna 83 (enter from Żelazna), tel. 694 109 379 You feel alive just being here: big on Colgate white colors, vintage tourist agency posters and bright stickers, Yugo is just about the cheeriest eatery you’ll come across on a dour Warsaw day. Presenting the food of the former Yugoslavia, this Balkan bolt hole specializes in meaty dishes served in traditional bread. $

british British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves

greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but don’t forego the kitchen either.

The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$

Where friends meet friends for good times and more.

burgers Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Burger Bar (E10) ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska), tel. 780 094 076, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in 2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $ Bydło i Powidło (A5) ul. Kolejowa 47, tel. 22 400 48 44 Set in a modern glass prism, here’s a place that’s realized you can’t get away with just serving burgers anymore (though here, they’re very good indeed). Unfortunately, the steak part of the menu just isn’t there yet. $ Fuddruckers ul. Górczewska 124 (Wola Park), tel. 22 533 4000, fuddruckers.com Not ones to keep

ul. Wilcza 58A znajomiznajomych.waw.pl

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listings / restaurants quiet, the American Fuddruckers chain claim to build ‘the world’s best burger!’ A big claim, but on early evidence they can certainly claim the Warsaw leg of this title. In an added plus, a buffet stand lets you throw as many addons (jalapenos, salsa, etc.) onto your food as possible. Full review coming up! $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $ Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735, open Mon-Sat 12:00-22:00; Sun 12:00-20:00 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

cheap eats Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re

well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of grill food and salads. $ Diner 55 (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 Young? Broke? Try Diner 55. Set in a dark, industrial basement, this spot fills with skater types showing off their first tattoo. The menu is born of an alliance between Pan Burger, Rico’s Tacos and Mr. Pancake, and is good enough for a quick fix solution. $ Fabryka Frytek (D4) ul. Złota 3, tel. 505 671 334, ul. Waryńskiego 9, tel. 505 671 334, fabrykafrytek.pl Giant portions of Belgian fries (up to 600g!), waffles, wedges and whatever else you can make out of a potato come served with an equally comprehensive range of dips and sauces. $ Friterie (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 794 158 813 Served in paper cones, the Belgian-style chips come with that inimitable double-fried crunch and a range of sauces that merit experimentation: try the ‘Andaluse’. $ Justyna’s Secret Recipes (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 138, jsecretrecipes. com We’re told Justyna was inspired by the Pret-a-Manger chain. Whatever the case, you just can’t fault her sandwiches which are fixed using proper imported bacon, organic sundries, and the freshest of bread. The

ul. Nowy Świat 36 tel. 731 001 002 beefnroll.pl facebook.com/beefnroll.burgers

BEST BURGERS /WINGS /HOT-DOGS

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delivery service is highly recommended for desk-bound officebots. $ Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, manekin.pl Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – there are times when queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), though not everyone agrees they’re worth the often silly waiting times. $ Meat Love (D5) ul. Hoża 62, tel. 500 149 210, meatlove.pl Not ones to stagnate, Meat Love have expanded in size, meaning there’s now plenty of room to sample their artisan sandwiches – the roast beef is a best seller. While some claim it’s no longer the benchmark venue of old, it’s still a consistent performer. $ Mr. Pancake (E3) ul. Solec 50, tel. 501 237 461, mrpancake.pl You’re just going to love their pancakes, with their fun, wacky look and creative toppings (M&Ms, funny faces traced with icing sugar, and lots of chocolatey stuff). They’re the sort of pancakes you’d get if Bart Simpson got stoned and decided to make some food – brilliant. $ To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town.

Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $ Wurst Kiosk (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 17, tel. 606 133 134 Imported German sausages served through a hole-in-a-wall with big dabs of mustard and fresh buns to go with them. The currywurst is just like the one you had at Berlin Hauptbahnhof. $

cooking schools Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress.

Past themes have included Swedish cooking

listings / restaurants (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

cuban El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994. Open Mon-Thu 12:30-24:00; Fri-Sat 12:30-1:00; Sun 12:30-22:30 Start with a round of daiquiris before ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this perky spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic – our vol au vent starter was dry and devoid of taste, while the chocolate ‘cream’ dessert

was a runny, ugly looking disappointment.

But there is potential: the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl A place of considered elegance, subtle decorations and monochrome colors. They’re especially noted for their obsessive attitude towards seafood (pick from five types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing), inventive mains and desserts that are heaven. $$ Le Bistro Rozbrat (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, tel. 22 881 7808 The signs suggest that Powiśle is set to mature even further this year, making the transition from hipster haunt to restaurant breeding ground – and here is Exhibit A. Owned by Frenchman Alain Budzyk, the interiors are contemporary casual, with talking points saved for the food.

The concise menu has token nods to Spanish cuisine, as well as a steak bavette that’s being raved about on the blogs. $$ Le Victoria Brasserie Moderne (D3) ul. Królewska 11 (Sofitel Warsaw Victoria), tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw. com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by

warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. Always leave room for dessert, especially the ‘pear trio’ – delicate and refreshing and with the right hint of sweet.

Petit Appetit (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27, tel. 22 826 44 61, petitappetit.com.pl A bit of French you say? Step in. There’s an atmosphere here that melts regulars and tourists into one. An easy coexistence that reveals a lot about the very soul of the place: café, hangout, bistro. Small choice but good results. $$

georgian Restauracja Gruzja (D4) ul. Chmielna 5, tel. 729 460 761, smakigruzji.pl After a red hot debut there’s been murmurs that Gruzja’s kitchen has suffered a few hiccups. Nonetheless, the chinkali – every Georgian’s favorite doughy purse of broth and meaty goodness – remains worth the visit. $

• The best quality USDA Black Angus prime beef, Wagyu 9+ Kobe steaks and Scottish prime beef.

• Outstanding seafood menu with oysters, mussels, octopus and calamari and seasonal, traditional Polish dishes.

• The largest selections of global wine in Poland. ul. Merliniego 5 (across from the Warszawianka water park) tel. 22 646 0810/22 646 0849

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listings / restaurants every corner. But this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628 The great location helps, with its nice evening light and people watching opportunities, but it’s the interiors that make it: rugs hanging on the wall, classic tables and contemporary lights. You feel right at home, which we guess is what the owners had in mind from the start. Find them hopping between tables, eating, chatting and going the extra yard. Full of warmth, love for food and live music at the weekend, this is the raucous, good-humored Georgia you want to know. $$

german Adler (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. 22 628 73 84, adlerrestauracja.pl Set in a rustic rotunda, this veteran favorite packs in reassuringly caloric portions of pork knuckles, schnitzel and dumplings – all of a sudden, you understand why Helmut Kohl looks so large.

Foaming beers served by Bavarian country maids complete the authenticity. $

greek & turkish Paros (D4) ul. Jasna 14/16, tel. 22 828 1067, parosrestauracja.pl Out of all of Warsaw’s Greek contributions Paros dazzles most with a glitzy look that’s a complete U-turn from the typical taverna look. Owned by the same team behind El Greco, the menu is identical, though a recent visit revealed a kitchen resting on its laurels – not one plate on our table was finished. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 Slowly but surely it seems the Turkish influence has been eroded in favor of a pedestrian menu of burgers, pasta and other things available on

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indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$

Madras (B3) Al. Solidarnosci 129/131, tel. 536 335 333, Even before you enter, you smell Madras: a pungent aroma that wafts gloriously over gloomy Solidarnośći. Looking humble, unassuming, and even a little seedy, this microscopic venue is as far removed from refined as it gets. For all that, those who love Indian food refuse to go anywhere else for their curry – full of intense flavors and bold spicing, the vindaloo is a near death experience: even your hair feels like it’s on fire. As the burning euphoria subsides, you’re left basking in that blissful glow all hotheads will know. Newsflash: now serving Grimbergen on tap! $

Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$

Mandala (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl Remember the cheap curries you once scoffed as a student? Well Mandala offers something similar. Immense portions, low prices and an efficient delivery service ensure plenty of custom, but the food is, at best, nothing more than ordinary. On a bad day, you might feel a little queasy. $

Buddha (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 23, tel. 22 826 3501, buddha.info.pl The days of the Raj are recreated in Buddha, a fine-looking curry house with intricate interiors and top-drawer curries. The murgh masala jhodphur is a favorite of ours though the real plus here is the consistency: it’s always a solid bet. $

Mr India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo – could be hotter for some, but good enough for most. $$

Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. $ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, tel. 508 870 774 & al.

Ken 47, tel. 22 213 0689, curryhouse.com. pl A primitive design (port-a-loo toilet, barred windows) and far-flung location have not hindered Curry House one bit. It’s a legend, not least for their vindaloo – a macho dish that provokes spontaneous combustion. Be warned: no beer. $

Parivar al. Waszyngtona 75, tel. 22 393 4104, parivar.pl The squid sizzler has the taste and texture of that chewing gum you found stuck under the bus seat, whil e the vindaloo is cunningly disguised as a bowl of red water with some chicken floating about. “I get better curry on the oil rigs,” opined the Insider’s official balti boy. For all of that, the biggest disappointment is Parivar’s apparent success. $ Rain by India Curry (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 438 9350, rain.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look, while the shaded courtyard garden is one of the best about town. The real credit for Rain’s resuscitation though belongs to the kitchen: our curry expert rates

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listings / restaurants the starters as the best he’s had in any Indian restaurant. And the mains continue the form with a magnificent lamb tikka masala. The tiffin lunch deals are outstanding as well. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen not just the interior modernized, but the menu – start with the pea and basil soup before moving onto the chicken tamarind or the chicken sholay kebab. Coated in absinth, it’s set aflame at the table. Traditionalists will also approve: the ‘classic’ menu features a formidable butter chicken tikka masala. After a couple of years in the doldrums, Tandoor is back with a bang. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Fans of the original we might be, but this latest venture brings to mind one of those anonymously formulaic Times Square eateries where tourists convene for the ‘fake’ New York experience. There are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport, while the despondent staff only make matters worse. You’d think the Pilsner beer tanks would serve as a point of

redemption, but here foul glasses make what should be Warsaw’s freshest beer into the capital’s worst. $$ Ale Wino ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for summer is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

A nuż widelec (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16, tel. 507 367 520 So snug is A nuż widelec, the feeling is of being round at a friend’s house. The food is nothing fancy, but fresh and made with love – and it feels even better while the owner potters about, chatting with his guests and watering the flowers in the knockout garden.

Such is the atmosphere, you want to call it home. $$ Artkitchen ul. Domaniewska 34A, artkitchen.pl Buried deep in the office blocks of white collar Mokotów Artkitchen hope to attract more than just the lunch break crowd with a busy jazz program overseen by musician Grzegorz Piotrowski. The modern international menu is composed by Michał Bassa, a man who appears to like foie gras: find it in burgers, ice cream and other combinations. $$

Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl If it’s informal dining you want, then Bibenda nails it: here the warm design incorporates a popular bar area filled with a young, chattery crowd. The seasonal menu makes use of market vegetables and farmyard produce, and is built on pillars of quality and simplicity. $$

Boathouse ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 389a, tel. 22 616 3223, boathouse.pl The name gives it away, doesn’t it? Situated in what is indeed a former boathouse, this venerable institution comes into its element in warmer weather when Warsaw goes riverside to dine at this restaurant. Even out of season, the Mediterranean standards have stood the test of time and keep this venue busy. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a

Slow food and a slow life philosophy inside an urban interior and a luxury wine and spirits list. Our kitchen uses only high quality regional and ecological produce. tel. 22 623 02 90, www.dwietrzecie.waw.pl

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listings / restaurants source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles. The menu looks like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook (mezze, Tom Yum soup, burgers, pierogi, etc.), but if the focus is blurry then the quality isn’t. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the Alaskan crab claws are excellent while the filet mignon (zł. 59) one of the best meat deals in town – and it’s even better when ordered with their own-made BBQ sauce. $$

Dwie Trzecie (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52, tel. 605 589 588 Undeterred by the departure of chef Marcin Jabłonkski, the new guy in the kitchen, Grzegorz Nowakowski, has stamped his own mark with a seasonal menu that’s high on creativity: on our visit that meant guinea fowl accompanied with splotches of emulsion and smears of coffee puree. Pleasingly, you get the idea that it’ll work in all seasons: raw enough for summer, yet intimate for winter. $$ Grand Kredens Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Kaskrut (D6) ul. Poznańska 5, tel. 22 622 5438, facebook. com/dwichlab This haunt has a high

communal seating plan and hip, buzzy foodie crowd: fit in by taking pics of the food.

The exciting menu is a temporary work that changes every two weeks. The place is known for its trial-and-error attitude: combinations that don’t work get binned before making a public debut. Those that make it through the qualifiers end up on the board. Servings are artistic, excellent and heavily influenced by French and North African cuisine, and new chef Piotr Ceranowicz already looks like he’s adapted well to Kaskrut’s high standards. $$

Original Indian Cuisine

Kitchen (D4) ul. Widok 8, tel. 22 464 8284, burgerkitchen.pl It’s the wings that do it. Double fried they are and smothered in a plum BBQ sauce.

Eating them is sticky business, but the taste is sensational: just about the most joyous thing you can eat without the use of a fork.

After a six month flirtation with upscale dining, Kitchen have done a U-turn and returned to their roots – the results aren’t so much a kitchen revolution, rather a kitchen revelation. The ‘comfort food’ menu is a hit parade of meatballs, burgers, and other such creations made using the best natural, BEST WAWA 2014 local ingredients.

“Reinvention” La Maison (B3) ul. Chłodna 15, tel. 22 652 3660, lamaison.pl Everything here feels considered, from a wine list handpicked by importer Frank Telling, right down to the desserts, prepared by award-winning French pastry chef Michel Willaume – and my, what desserts. Backing the little details up is a menu of note: fish are a particular forte. All this in a casual background that features some whimsical Alice in Wonderland touches: patchwork armchairs, pinkish booths and hanging teapot-shaped lights. $$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel. 22 531 6070, leregina.com Truly, one of the standout dining rooms of Poland. Many have commented on the Michelin quality of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s restaurant, and you may consider the lack of a star one of the puzzles of the modern world. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and is built for superlatives: the slow-roasted rack of Welsh lamb was one of our highlights of 2013.

club

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listings / restaurants Find Oszczyk ably supported by Andrzej Strzelczyk, Poland’s top ranked sommelier, and wonderfully charismatic staff. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl What a first year for L’enfant Terrible: opened mid-2014 they’d already done enough by last October to win Gazeta Wyborcza’s coveted Knajpy Roku award. And no-one deserves it more than Chef Michał Bryś, an innovative chef who leaves diners beaming. Pitting local produce against modern techniques the tasting menu (five courses: zł. 170) is sensational: the duck hearts will live long in this Insider’s memory. With all the hype you expect it to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but: the design is smart but non-threatening, and the front of house staff are due plenty of credit. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Newcomer”

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, cafeloft.pl Entering Loft isn’t far removed from stepping inside a pop art painting: lots of vibrant colors and weird lights inside strings of bubbles. A bi-level venture, the best spot to enjoy the menu is on the upstairs terrace, a sunny place befitting of options with names like Ding Dong Soup and Embarrassed Chicken. $$

Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325, The design joins elements of classic Prague bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. You get the idea both the cooking and artisan cocktails need a little fine-tuning, but fundamentally this newbie is looking in the right direction – certainly one to keep a watch for. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (D2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Tapas-style portions of experimental-looking food arrives in little glass jars (meat and fish skewers, Eton mess), or else on paper plates a la the jalapeno hot dog.

Pay zł. 40 for a choice of six itsy pots served in a wire-framed basket. While the concept has taken right off, the food isn’t exactly an earthquake experience. $

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without

sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST BEST WAWA 2014 WAWA 2014 “Chef” “Fine Dining” Nowa Próżna ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Amazing to think that a few years ago this street looked like it was about to fall down. With Próżna’s restoration nearly complete, along comes the task of filling its ground floor units – consider this venture a successful pacesetter. Founded by the owners of the recently closed R20, the European menu here is a work of flair and modernity. Like the food, the slick white interiors feel just right. $$

Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. At times the cooking of Łukasz Żuchowski has been described as ‘inspirational’ and his talents come paired with a wine list selected by Marek Kondrat –

Our atmospheric restaurant specializes in seafood, presented and prepared using our unique methods. The tastes ensure that it’s regulars and returnees that make up the core of our custom: join them!

15% discount with this issue, and a free glass wine with your main course!

Papalina Al. KEN 53, tel. 608 921 404, www.papalina.pl

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listings / restaurants an actor / wine merchant with an immense reputation. $$ Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) InterContinental Hotel, ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8734, platter.pl The hotel has roped in celebrity chef Karol Okrasa to head their revamped dining room. As a temple of nouveau Polish, the new layout isn’t a dramatic change from the previous occupant, but the food is faultless. In particular, the herb garden salad with prawns comes immaculately groomed. An already excellent experience has been raised to talking point level. $$$ Północ Poludnie ul. Bagatela 10 Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. The sliders are worth exploration: they don’t just consist of beef, but also salmon, egg and chicken. $$ Porkownia ul. Piękna 20, tel. 22 627 4151, porkownia.pl Here’s a Warsaw first: a restaurant focused on celebrating the humble pig. Suspicions that Porkownia may lack something in the sophistication department don’t bear fruit – sprouting from the ashes of Jazz Bistro Piękna, the surrounds are chic and modern, not the blood-spattered butcher’s

backroom you might otherwise expect. The food is similarly well-presented and scores highly for such dishes as apple/bacon and boar/artichoke/marmite. Showing plenty of creativity, here’s a kitchen that reinvents the pig!

Punta Prima ul. Obrzeżna 1B, tel. 22 406 0886, puntaprima.com.pl There’s something immediately fetching about Punta Prima, a place that announces itself grandly with its deep wood panels and embroidered armchairs. For food, choose from a varied menu that draws on largely Mediterranean influences. Try the bream with herbs baked in sea salt. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Zamek Ujazdowski, Al. Jazdów 2, tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu honed by Marta Gessler. $$ Renoma (E3) ul. Lipowa 7A, tel. 22 692 7239, bistrorenoma.pl Here’s a venue that suits all purposes at all times of day. Most of all, it’s a

place that feels positive, a place where heart and mind work seamlessly together: that means breakfast to evening options – many of them gluten-free – including fab lunch deals and 60-day aged steaks. Great for afternoon ‘me time’ or a dinner date with a beautiful stranger, Renoma’s intimate style and soothingly stark interiors work with the personalized approach. $$ Restauracja 99 (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 22 620 1999, restaurant99.com Sporting a futuristic look, 99 is an enduring veteran of the CBD circuit.

No longer the top dog for business wining / dining, it nonetheless remains a very safe choice for perfect steaks and loaded margaritas. $$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom.

It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s passion and personality, but most of all, it’s just bloody brilliant. $$$

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listings / restaurants Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799 Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and roast beef. $$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl The entrance alone is a thing of fancy and accessed through a long open-air corridor, one side flanked by the office block, the other by bullet grazed brickwork.

Flickering flames dance on either side, the tall walls disappearing into the night sky above.

Recommended is the six course tasting menu (zł. 230), which on our visit included eel, smoked at the table, duck with onion chutney and pepper mousse and swordfish served amid billowing ‘sea essence’. Comparisons to Atelier Amaro are inevitable, and speak volumes for the innovation and talents of chef Andrea Camastra. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Foreign Chef”

ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 cafeloft.pl

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Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Chef Aleksander Baron is one of the big characters on Warsaw’s foodie circuit, and his love of nose-to-tail food always ensures surprises on the daily changing menu. Using fresh, seasonally appropriate ingredients, this is one of the best alternate

dining experiences around: and yeah, it doesn’t really look like a restaurant. Diners order at the counter before sitting down in a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. We’re huge fans. $$

Soul Kitchen Bistro ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $

Loft’s unique atmosphere is helped by its position on ul. Złota, a historic street now presented in modern form – it’s here you’ll find our oasis from the usual restaurants.

Our restaurant’s philosophy is founded on the words of Salvador Dali: ‘You might not eat everything, but you should never eat badly’.

Our menu presents creative global flavors and yet is underlined by its strong Polish accents. The chef, meanwhile, introduces principles of physics to the kitchen, which is why you’ll find strawberry snow, dusts, kale chips with caviar, smoked strawberries and fruit foam all on our menu.

Additionally, our daily lunch deals (Mon-Fri noon till 4 p.m.) are available for just 19.90zł. Join us in our two floor restaurant, or on our seasonal terrace.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2015

listings / restaurants Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Just what were they thinking ignoring the form book like that?

No communal tables, no pipes and no rough-hewn bricks. Instead, there’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service.

What a refreshing change. The chef favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. Even the cocktails are a thing of brilliance. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, open Mon-Sun 10:00-23:00, www.tamka.43.pl The design is upscale but in a quiet, dignified manner, with the principal talking point being the view: there it is, right in front of you, the Ostrogski Palace. For date night, book the peacock’s perch, a table for two that juts out from the rest of the glass frontage. Chef Rafał Hreczaniuk has finessed a menu that stands

out as one of the best in the city, with a seasonal tasting menu that on our visit featured beautiful zander with horse radish powder, Irish beef cheek with plenty of oomph, and a wild garlic panna cotta. Consider it one of the Poland’s elite restaurants. $$$ Tapage (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 5 Newly opened, it’s best to think of Tapage as a testing ground for experimental ideas. Opened by the same team behind Kaskrut, it’s split into three distinct areas: a terrace, a snug white-tiled bar, and an upstairs nook up some spiral stairs. The menu (scheduled to change every couple of weeks) is brief with dishes presented like proud little artworks. We tried everything (!), and particularly loved the salmon served with sriracha and a bed of diced pineapple. The overlapping tastes form a perfect combination leaving diners stunned. $$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285 The jaunty,

impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $ Wootwórnia (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5, tel. 603 696 259, wootwornia.pl Accessed round a back garden, Wootwórnia feels like a private little secret – you get the sensation not of visiting a restaurant, but of visiting a friend.

The dominant element is the counter, from which co-owner Agnes Woo showcases her homemade preserves and own-baked cakes.

Sourcing ingredients from small-scale local farms, here is a menu designed to nourish the soul. And it does just that. The tomato soup, enriched with hint of orange, aniseed and cinnamon isn’t soup of the day, it’s our

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listings / restaurants soup of the year. Genuine ‘food from the heart’. $$

Znajomi Znajomych (C5) ul. Wilcza 58A, znajomiznajomych.waw.pl You can’t label Zna Zna a restaurant because it’s so much more than that: screenings, DJs, yard sales, book readings… there’s not a thing they don’t turn their hand to. But that’s not to say this retro-styled hangout can’t turn their hand to food – here that means light bites, pizzas, burgers and a recommended chili con carne. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza.pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ Ave Pizza Piękna 56 (D6) ul. Piękna 56, tel. 412 0656, avepizza.pl After experiencing landslide success in Powiśle the Ave team have listened to

the market and expanded to the center.

While pizza still plays a prominent role, their newest location is more serious and sophisticated in its culinary intent. Dishes like prawns in parma ham win blanket approval, while the semifreddo stop you in your tracks. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl You will find people ordering pizza, but they’re missing out on a marvelous menu that includes a great big octopus served with lemon mousse, and a simply stunning beef tenderloin in madeira sauce.

This is seriously talented cooking inside a fresh and light restaurant that reflects the nature of the food. $$

Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20 minute waiting times for a table alone. Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $ Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$

japanese & sushi Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where

Dear Guests!

We invite you to experience an exotic and mysterious adventure full of seasonal aromas and the unforgettable flavours of traditional Indian cuisine.

Curry, coriander, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, cumin: these aromas mean it’s impossible to pass Buddha without stepping in.

Enjoy the atmosphere of Indian life, food, music and happiness.

Buddha Indian Restaurant ul. Nowy Swiat 23 +48 22 826 35 01 / 725 111 222

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listings / restaurants the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be the No. 1 ex-pat choice. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Depending on how busy they are, Uki Uki will prepare your Udon noodles fresh within 15-30 minutes. The electric pasta maker, imported from Japan, is a Godzilla of a monster, compressing and even cutting the udon dough into chunky, chewy noodles that provide a solid foundation for a richly satisfying meal. Every now and again a restaurant comes along that makes Warsaw’s dining scene all the more complete – Uki Uki is one of those. $$ Wabu (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, tel. 22 628 9274, wabu.pl The food is a masterpiece: immaculate futomaki rolls that look like little artworks, exquisite butterfish and glorious tuna gunkan that flashes with freshness.

Screw the chopsticks, food this good finds itself scooped up in the fingers and demolished in seconds. Soon enough it all becomes a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. The details don’t seem to matter, what does is that Wabu blow the competition out of the water, even if it does leave the credit card streaming smoke. $$$

jewish Galil (C3) ul. Zielna 36, tel. 731 492 634, galil-restaurant.pl There’s been a few Jewish restaurants opened in the last couple of years, and they’ve all quickly folded. Already though, there’s the impression Galil might last the distance, a point underlined by

the rather good food. We started with a zesty tabouleh before moving on to grilled chicken breast with dates and a syrup glaze. Set inside a rambling, tiled interior, this labyrinthine space already looks like its snaring big-spending groups. Kosher certified, as well. $$ Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. Entertainment is provided by the staff: find them engaged in something akin to war with the people they serve. $

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

latin & mexican Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523 A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is by far the best of the bunch: fiery, fresh and full of zing.

Newly expanded, meaning diners no longer engage in games of Twister while grappling with their burrito.

Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy BEST tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ WAWA 2014 “Casual Dining”

middle eastern Falafel Bejrut (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Originally born as a food cart outside Hala Mirowska, this venture steams with the heat of the deep fryer, not to mention all those people squashed-up trying to decipher the menu. We’re converted to their hummus falafel which comes with jalapenos and a little kick of hot sauce.

The secret ingredient here is an extra pinch of cilantro and parsley, which helps this pocket of pleasure come together in a whirr of freshness. $

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel.

22 670 1166, lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer.

Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. $$

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Meza Beirut (D4) ul. Ordynacka 13, tel. 22 692 7555, mezabeirut.pl God knows how many restaurants have chanced their luck in this location, though Meza Beirut look a better bet than most to break the hex. Lebanese-run, the menu here is comprehensive with all the requisite hot and cold mezze and grilled and skewered meats. Early feedback has been largely positive, with decent prices and fresh flavors doing their bit to stir local interest. $$ Samira ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl

There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska. Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

polish Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$

Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we

The Biggest selection of Lebanese wine in the world!

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

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listings / restaurants bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$

this commie themed restaurant. Dining is done under red banners and paintings of nasty political activists, while the menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the dignitary and proletariat – all details that saw it names as one of the Top 25 Unique Restaurants in the World. Another vodka, comrade, and the First Secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$

Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s only Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). Don’t miss the bespoke vodka menu, either. It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here, the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ BEST WAWA 2014 “Presentation”

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leave, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Regarded as one of the great names on Warsaw’s culinary carousel, this restaurant never ceases to impress: set in a imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with Adam Komar’s menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Now everyone is rich and happy, it’s easy to forget communism was a pretty dire experiment. Which explains the playful nature of

Newly opened location of Soul Kitchen Bistro.

Modern, classic Polish cuisine

Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking.

When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Openings like this make you glad you moved to Warsaw.

Modernized Polish cuisine meets artisan vodka inside interiors that glint with sheer class. For our full lowdown see p. 34. $$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl See in Autumn amid curling pathways and bursting shrubs, or sit inside in an interior that conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

ul. Nowogrodzka 18A tel. 519 020 888 www.soulkitchen.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Halka Restaurcja po polsku ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having

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relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates.

Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead!

An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $

Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006 The Smolna address is a bit misleading – in reality, you’ll be traipsing down into the park under the ‘hammer head’ tower before reaching Zbyszek Kmieć’s restaurant. But you’ll be glad you did. The menu has hints of Atelier Amaro in its fiendish attention to natural Polish produce: the cream of beetroot soup is peerless, and the boar ragout gains similar approval. This is a happy marriage where traditions are turned on their head using creative techniques and precise presentation.

At the same time, be warned the scene here might not appeal: it’s very stars in your eyes as Polish celebs – both major and minor – swan about while their acolytes simper. $$

Kuchnia Funkcjonalna (G3) ul. Jakubowska 16 (enter from ul. Estońska), tel. 512 893 898 Snuck inside one of Saska’s definitive modernist buildings, Kuchnia make

listings / restaurants slow food accessible to all wallets. Venison from the Bieszczady Mountains, dairy products from Jersey cattle milk, and the use of goose fat instead of butter are just a few noteworthy characteristics; the frequently changing menu reflects the commitment to nature. The ascetic design is softened by a cast-iron stove and moody lighting, giving the restaurant a warm, seasonal glow, while the garden gives people the opportunity to eavesdrop the big concerts at the stadium next door! $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched

with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Fall-off-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Podwale Piwna Kompania (D2) ul. Podwale 25, tel. 22 635 6314, podwale25.pl Prowling mountain bands

generate a beer hall atmosphere, while the courtyard garden – designed to replicate a Mitteleuropa square – is one of the best you’ll find. But the obscene portions can’t mask what is pretty poor food. Go there for the experience, if nothing else. $ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Przystawki (B1) ul. Stawki 3, tel. 22 299 1619, przystawki. com Welcome to Muranów: the black hole of local gastronomy. But change is in the air – first came the opening of Jaś i Małgosia, and now comes Przy Stawki. Both keep it simple,

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl

Restauracja PAPU

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl

listings / restaurants gunning for a straight forward menu that presents the kind of cooking you’d like to see at the in-laws: local ingredients cooked with care. In a nutshell, this is Polish home cooking at moderate prices. More places like this, please. $ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed.

Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist.

Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restaurac-

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jasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology

to bring out its best. $$

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus.

The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly. Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozo-

listings / restaurants limskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret.

In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. And then the food arrives: dainty veal dumplings, and tender braised veal that’s good for the chills.

You leave knowing you have eaten honestly and well. $$

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to

the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Wed, Fri & Sat (see website for details), biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far

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listings / restaurants as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

gogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

British Shop (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 8, tel. 692 240 804 British food and beverages inc. cider, bacon, sausages, gluten free ready meals, confectionary etc. Run by the same team who once operated Fish & Chips on Koszykowa, the offer has now expanded to cover non-food items like Royal Wedding souvenirs, England football paraphernalia etc.

Kuchnie Świata Various locations, www.kuchnieswiata. com.pl The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast. Internet ordering now also available.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912, open Mon-Sat 8:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-20:00 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is.

Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine.

Lots and lots of wine.

Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the syna-

La Fromagerie (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, tel. 22 465 2324, lafromagerie.pl Top quality cheeses produced by small, artisan producers from England, the major regions of France as well as several other countries. Also, gourmet specialities like Italian parma ham, Spanish chorizo, French sausages, and hard-to-find luxury brands from France, Italy, Greece and more.

Le Targ ul. Mińska 25 (SOHO Factory), tel. 603 051 116 Find here a rather random array of products: stands display traditional meats, goat’s cheeses, unconventional preserves, Greek products, vegan ingredients… it all still seems a bit like a work in progress. The initiative is noble, however.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of

the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries.

Martin’s Good Meat ul. Przejazd 4/7, tel. 797 866 131 Angus, Hereford and Limousine beef, not to mention lamb, veal and seasoned steaks. A candidate for Warsaw’s best butchery, no less!

Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Not just an excellent take-away, but also a small deli selling herbs and spices, ready meals, drinks and even Indian toiletries.

Samira ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira. pl Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks.

Targ Śniadaniowy al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town.

THE ONLY MODERN SOUTH AMERICAN CUISINE IN WARSAW

73 Wilcza Street, tel. (22) 58 48 771 W W W.SALTORESTAUR ACJA .PL

66ADWIhorizontal.indd Warsaw Insider1| OCTOBER 2015

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listings / restaurants steak houses Beef n’Pepper (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 731 307 377 A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28 day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. $$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$

Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$

thai

Downtown Restaurant (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows.

But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. Now added to their menu are other animalitos like kangaroo. $$$

Basil & Lime (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basillime.pl Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked.

Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? $$

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s a vibrant space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$

my’o’tai ul. Szpitalna 8 (enter on Górskiego), tel.

662 742 901 While the menu lacks standard Thai dishes (no noodles!?), the tastes are thoroughly authentic and a credit to the chef. The caramelized spicy chicken wings are so good you’ll think about ordering them twice. $$

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses. The steaks

are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. $$$

Suparom Thai (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49, tel. 22 627 1888, suparomthaifood.pl Lovely interior with Siamese gold ornaments and gleaming dark wood. The shrimp cakes are always worth a try. $$ Suparom Thaifood II al. Wilanowska 309, tel. 22 853 3087,

Traditional Polish cuisine Best venison and lamb in Warsaw Live music Regional wine, beer and spirits Grand Kredens - 18 years full of tradition

Aleje Jerozolimskie 111 tel. +48 22 629 80 08 Mob. +48 697 900 000 kredens@kredens.com.pl www.kredens.com.pl Follow us on Facebook www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants suparomthaifood.pl Tiny, when compared to its parent on Marszałkowska, and distinctly unassuming. Suparom’s green curry is the ‘best in the world’ according to one reader, and while such a superlative begs for a challenge, none is forthcoming – not from us, anyhow. $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and vibrant colors.

The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

Thaisty (C2) pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day.

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl

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A fresh attractive look, an authentic chef and a menu that doesn’t waffle on for pages and pages. But there’s something missing here, with the flavors not quite hitting the notes one expects. $$

whole foods Jamniczek ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 This small duallevel nook specializes in vegan hot dogs and healthy non-alc cocktails. Foregoing factory floor snips and tails, principle fillings include millet, tofu and spinach. Taste-wise it does well, but you can’t help but feel they’ve got the proportions all wrong: heaps of salad, massive baguettes, but only a thin little ‘dog’ in the middle. $ Krowarzywa (D5) ul. Hoża 42, tel. 516 894 767 Even committed meat eaters concede there’s something special here. This is a burger bar with a difference: the stuff between the bun is vegan – and way superior to the majority of ‘proper’ burger bars. Very popular with the local hipsters, so anticipate bewildering fashion statements and eccentric hair. $ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 The interior looks a little like a New Age milk bar, the kind that’s left the design down to IKEA, but looking at the above-counter menu you soon realize there’s more to this place than meets

the eye. While you can’t say the food is ‘meat imitation’ the schabowy is a whole lot better than some of the chops we’ve had in our time. And then there’s the kebab, seasoned with seitan, that goes some way to proving fast food doesn’t need to be junk food. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568, lovinghut.waw.pl What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Mango Vegan Street Food ul. Bracka 20, open Sun-Thu 11:00-22:00; Fri-Sat 11:00-23:00 Everything vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple classic dish.

Totomato (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34, totomato.pl A one-time contestant of the Top Chef program, chef Marcin Piotrowski grabs the limelight once more with his reemergence at Totomato.

Branded a ‘deli, bistro and culinary academy’, this standout champions ideas of slow food and healthy living: the Mazurian farmed snails are exceptional. $$

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTEWORTHY

SOK BAR (ul. Tamka 22/24, sokbar.com) Small but perfectly formed, Sok Bar is an example of Tamka’s nascent but flourishing café scene. The star turn belongs to the juices and smoothies, which you’ll find served in a variety of ways: including 50ml shots. Look out for the ‘Hangover’, a combination of orange, gherkin, apple and lemon juice – it really is capable of fixing any after-party maladies.

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39 We’re told the interiors were purposefully kept neutral to keep the focus on the product – and crikey, what bread.

French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. Some claim it’s the best bakery in Poland, and we’re not arguing.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Ex-pats from France, a nation of master bakers if ever there were, profess Vincent to be their favorite Warsaw bakery. And they’re not alone. Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause most to linger.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com The battle lines are drawn: on one side it’s the slobs of Plan B, and on the other the snobs of Charlotte.

While the fancy crowd (all jangling Porsche keys and idiotic selfies) isn’t to everyone’s liking, Charlotte’s baked goods are commonly hailed as things of rare beauty.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation.

And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

LEGAL CAKES (ul. Chłodna 2/18, legalcakes.com) ‘No need to cheat’ chirps their motto.

Proclaiming to be the first of its kind in Poland, Legal Cakes specialize in gorgeous cakes and assorted desserts – the difference being these are all made from completely natural and healthy ingredients. Occupying a pinkish, feminine space just off Chłodna street, their own-made chocolate / fruit ‘batons’ are an essential takeout item.

SAM (E3) ul. Lipowa 7, sam.info.pl A central, communal table is flanked by smaller satellite tables for parties of two to four while perky seasonal blooms and potted herbs lend a spark of freshness. Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars cafés Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1 The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs.

It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace that looms above.

It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Chłodna 25 (B3) ul. Chłodna 25 Maybe resurrecting a legend wasn’t such a good idea after all. People once traveled from all across Warsaw to meet here, but after several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management it’s a mere shadow of what it once was. Shame. A place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, it just needs people to stir it into life.

Chmiel Café (D4) ul. Chmielna 27/31, chmielcafe.pl Rows and rows of Belgian beers occupy the shelves, while behind the counter find pedigree treats, cakes and ice cream from the Slow Food approved Consonni brand.

Forget the industrial rubbish, the ice cream produced by this lot is an absolute standout.

With the outdoor terrace making its debut, it’s the ideal family solution with something for everyone.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

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Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Dobra 31, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling.

Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Drop Juice Bar ul. Sienna 81 (enter from Żelazna), drop. waw.pl mWhether your body is a temple or a dustbin, squeeze in a visit to the Drop Juice bar (enter through the slidey door leading to the MD Clinic). Specializing in cold pressed juices, smoothies and superfoods, they make a point of using natural products only. Expect no artificial additives, no pasteurizing and no water cheating its way into your drink.

Fawory ul. Mickiewicza 21 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Better”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though, and come served inside a white interior splashed with an awesome mural.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants.

Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

BEST WAWA 2014 “Coffee” MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

MOD ul. Oleandrów 8 A place full of everlasting love for the humble donut. Inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to natural ingredients and the artisan process.

Those glistening technicolors you see are down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoy, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram

listings / cafés & wine bars for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Stor ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch. BEST WAWA 2014 “Wine Bar” Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. But talking points aren’t limited to the interiors alone. The wine selection was personally overseen by Robert Mielżyński, possibly the most esteemed wine importer in the country. And the choice is prodigious.

Offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Jung & Lecker (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 14, jungilecker.pl Some think

of this as a neighborhood wine bar – they’re clearly privileged, because if everyone had a Jung & Lecker next door it’d be a kind world indeed. While the courtyard garden is a highlight, even in the sub-zero season there’s reason to swing by. Offering an intimate atmosphere and a strong menu, the finishing touch is provided by way of wines sourced directly from 15 wineries in Germany’s famed Pfalz, Rheinhessen, Rheingau and Mosel regions.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 The gentrification of Zbawiciela continues with the appearance of Heritage, a place of tap wines, cobbled floors, and simple, well-thought interiors.

With its crates, boxes, cans and tins, Heritage fill a binary role as a deli/wine store for an ascendant new money crowd.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: a concise menu that’s never too complex and an exciting wine choice that presents over 500 labels.

Portucale (E10) ul. Merliniego 2, portucale.pl The rule here is to keep it simple. Stick to the truly amazing seafood and good house wine, both of which promise a terrific Portuguese experience. $$ Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu. Open MonSat 12:00-24:00; Sun 12:00-18:00. Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that keep dogs in their handbag. www.warsawinsider.pl

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

WARSZAWSKA (ul. Wilcza 17) Spartan, sparse and very, very white, Warszawska functions as a café during daylight hours, before being recast as a cool bar come evening. Drinks are a thoughtful affair and include organic Italian wines and beers from the acclaimed Browar Amber. If there’s a complaint, then it’s the early-ish closing times (11 on the weekend!!). Other than that, it’s the kind of neighborhood bar everyone wants to have.

CIECHAN NA FOKSAL (ul. Foksal 18, ciechan.com.pl/foksal) If you’re happy to overlook the unsavory politics of the brewery’s owner, then you’ll doubtless enjoy the flagship bar of the BRJ brewing company. There’s 16 taps showcasing a portfolio of regional beers, among them Ciechan, Lwówek and Bojan. The food is largely a stodge-fest, something that sits ill at ease with the smart, brick interiors. Maybe something more rugged would have worked better, but hey, who cares, it’s about the beer, right?

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bars & pubs 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar & Books ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Find the New York born Bar & Books inside a restored townhouse by the Old Town walls. Inspired by the British colonial style, the bar’s onus is on cocktails, champagne and whisky, served in an interior that features an upper floor cigar lounge amid all the wood paneling and heavyweight tomes. The beautiful interiors mirror the classy cocktails.

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13 There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers (Noteckie, English ale, Erdinger) from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Berlin-Warszawa Express (D5) Most Poniatowskiego (corner of Kruczkowskiego and al. 3 Maja) Set up a flight of stairs, a concrete footbridge at the top links the two bars either side: Berlin and Warszawa. It’s a Matrix moment, the red

listings / nightlife pill or the blue? Berlin’s the better, with industrial cage lights, and salvaged DDR memorabilia. Surveying the scene, it’s all wobbly tables, sticky surfaces and tight little alcoves fitted into impossible spaces. A great dive bar, the friendly nature of Berlin gets even friendlier after a few craft brews.

Bierhalle (A1) Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle.pl Having tapped their first beer six or seven years back, their microbrewery have morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

British Bulldog (D4) ul. Aleje Jerozolimskie 42, bbpub.pl In terms of aesthetic it’s the most accurate replica of an English pub you’ll find. And they get a further nod for a brilliant covered terrace that’s great in all weather. Not that you’ll find many British expats in here, they’ve been boycotting the place ever since the dismissal of the original British manager. Judging by the poor standards of beer and food, you might want to follow their example. What could have become an expat legend is, in essence, a big wet plop of disappointment.

Cafe Kulturalna (C4) Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, kulturalna.pl The location is unbeatable and visiting the Palace late at night is an amazing, almost mystical experience.

Ceska ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the

street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds.

Chmielarnia (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia. waw.pl A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager.

While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, it’s a resounding yes. With its light wood touches and fruity montages Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with an alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in a miniature form. The only problem?

By their very nature, cocktails aren’t concocted in two minutes flat – if it’s busy, waiting around is like Death by a Thousand Cuts.

Column Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol) Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead.

For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in the beautifully tranquil courtyard.

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the

forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so new wave beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl Set in one of those towers that props up Most Poniatowskiego, its surroundings look grim – at night even scary.

Bathed in a yellowish murk, it’s actually warm and welcoming, and the reason for that soon becomes apparent: everyone is drunk!

There’s 80 Czech beers to pick from, and they do more than enough to distract from the rattle and rumble of overhead trams and a swamp monster toilet.

Dandys Bar & Art Kafe (D6) ul. Piękna 15, dandysbar.pl Dandys brings together the cream of Warsaw’s social scene inside a split-level bar that smacks of good times and high living: this is a place created with ‘super sexy’ in mind. The top quality cocktails are befitting of the people and philosophy.

Dom Wódki ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Poland’s biggest collection of vodka (250 plus) comes presented inside deluxe interiors overlooking the theater – it’s magical at night. For a full review, see p. 34.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Hoppiness ul. Chmielna 27/31 You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray!

Hopsters Al. Jana Pawła II 45 (enter from ul. Nowolipki) You get the idea they could have done a bit more with the interior, though the tendency is to overlook this. After all, any bar that goes to the trouble of fitting twenty taps deserves a bit of leeway. And fine things they are, these taps of theirs. There’s usually a couple of foreign guests on the day-to-day menu (Mikeller, Lindemans), but the main draw is undoubtedly from domestic brew houses like AleBrowar and Artezan, not to mention rising stars such as Doctor Brew and Podgórz.

Irish Pub (C2) ul. Miodowa 3, irishpubmiodowa.pl Affecting a look that only an Irish pub can escape with – strange smells and chipped wood – this boozer is perhaps more noted for its live music and camaraderie than for anything else. There’s events practically every night, ranging from local rock acts to cool blues. If you failed the X Factor audition then do the next best thing and visit for karaoke night.

Jabeerwocky ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Prices go from affordable all the way up to, ‘bloody hell, how much!?’ Find a staggering choice on pump, tap and in the fridges, with the international selection accrued by true aficionados: the beers are brill, and so are some of the beards. We’re still awaiting the promised garden, so in the meantime enjoy an appealingly coarse interior that features original tilework over 100 years old.

Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11 With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine.

Karowa 31 ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com

Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed

by Bram, the former manager of the London Cocktail Club.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned, but that’s part of the thrill – for a failsafe, order the Viterbo Breakfast: it looks like something that came out of a drainpipe, but it’s delicious!

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12 Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Kwadrat (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, tel. 790 010 088, open Mon-Fri 16:00-last guest; Sat 18:00-last guest, www.kwadrat.waw.pl Nights get blurry in Kwadrat, one of the first bars in town to spread the gospel of regional and new wave beer. Enjoy it alongside an amiable, late 20s crowd.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, open Mon-Thu 11:00-23:00; Fri 11:00-

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listings / nightlife 02:00; Sat 12:00-02:00, Sun 12:00-23:00, www.legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Most of all though, the success is down to the sense of community fostered over long quiz nights, shouty karaoke competitions and Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Małe Piwo (D7) ul. Oleandrów 4 Hands up who loves good beer? Thought so. Małe Piwo have been a sensation since opening, preempting the craft beer trend and in the process attracting huge crowds of every sub-section of the hipster community. The choice of bottles is immense, and enjoyed in an edgy, dive bar background that’s snugger than a mouse’s waistcoat.

Miłość Kredytowa 9 ul. Kredytowa 9 Firstly, there’s the bar. It’s stunning: concrete slabs, a vertical wall of greenery and a DJ platform that doubles as a kitchen on weekends. The upstairs mezzanine is the best spot for voyeurs, and it’s here that a series of rooms unravel revealing a bookstore, deli and a lumbersexual barber shop. It is ultimately the bar that is the center force though, and it’s here you’ll find one-of-a-kind bottled cocktails that use natural ingredients, not to mention the full offer from Perła.

Multitap Bla Bla ul. Nowogrodzka 22, blabla.com.pl Looking murky and in need of a good scrub (and that’s just the glasses), you feel Bla Bla is simply here to suck up overspill from its more high-profile neighbors. Ten taps here, usually carrying beers you know inside out. But you will find a seat and there’s a kebab shop next door.

Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44 Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately

twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans.

The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!).

Panorama Bar and Lounge (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), panoramabar.pl An elegant bar that would easily pass for the VIP room of a well-to-do club. A floor 40 location makes it great for a date: the sunset views are dazzling.

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Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia.

Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Parking Bar (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 27, parkingbar.eu It looks raw and ready, but then what did you expect from a place on the ground floor of a car park. Plentiful concrete, mesh fences and swinging car tire seats lend it unique characteristics, as do the drinks: the creative cocktails are served in small little jars. At times it feels a bit slow, but that changes on their weekend club nights.

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listings / nightlife Patera (C4) ul. Świętokrzyska 36, patera.com.pl Patera fill a binary role: first as an Asian eatery, and second as a cocktail bar. And my, what cocktails. Offering several classics, and a few modern creations, the Ginger Peach Collins became our cocktail of choice during summer 2014. The reopening of Świętokrzyska should lead a few more people through the door – they’ll like what they see.

Perłowa Bistro ul. Bracka 18 Created to showcase Perła’s full skillset, this newbie matches seven taps from Poland’s best ‘big brewery’ to smart interiors splashed with light industrial touches. Choices include cult drops such as Zwierzyniec, Perła Koźlak and Perła Mocna, with prices topping out at zł. 9 per pint.

Pies Czy Suka (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A, piesczysuka.com Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a fashionable crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones.

This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab.

Piw Paw (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul.

Parkingowa), open 24 hrs We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells and queue scrum. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an end-of-term street party.

Piw Paw na Foksal (E4) ul. Foksal 16, piwpaw.pl If the original Piw Paw was marketed as a ‘hyper tap’ then what’s their sister on Foksal? There’s 97 taps (!!) though one gets the sense its more about numbers than quality – we’ve seen Beck’s, for Pete’s sake. Getting service can be a nightmare, and while there’s a smoking room, it’s got the warmth and ambience of a night down the police station.

Plac Barcelona (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 18 Those who think this

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area’s star has waned need look no further than Plac Barcelona, a pristine bar with a star studded clientele. The interiors feature stark white colors and an interesting multi-level seating arrangement. Most, however, prefer to give themselves maximum exposure and do both their sipping and sitting outdoors.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Polonez (D5) ul. Poznańska 24 Sparse milk bar chic is set against plenty of oddities (black and white Cybulski films, a set of antlers, hordes of junk), but the cool aesthetics only tell a part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio drinks and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10 Set across two small, rugged rooms, Same Krafty gets populated by an organic combination of tourists, couples and beer enthusiasts. There’s ten taps from which to choose, and a fridge with several interesting international beers. The Old Town doesn’t have much to shout about when it comes to nightlife, so Same Krafty’s debut is more than welcome.

Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66 Most part restaurant, bit part bar, there’s a flexibility here that has turned it into one of those places where people meet, eat and generally hangout – not always in that order. And as for the drinks, they’re really very good. Using their own mixes, Secado present a succinct list of must-try cocktails.

Sketch w Teatrze Wielkim (D2) Pl. Piłsudkiego 9, sketch.pl Here’s a multi tap bar designed with a very specific crowd in mind: glam stylists, models with sleeve tattoos and other vapid morons. Looking bold, bright and brash, this is just about the worst tap bar Warsaw has ever seen. The beer aspect is purely incidental. You get the idea this mob would be here if the pipes

were hooked up to the udders of a cow – so long as milk was in fashion. Yuck.

Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjasloik.pl Słoik looks bright, loud and vibrant, so it’s no surprise to learn their cocktail maestros specialize in maverick creations. A source of particular pride are drinks that celebrate Poland: we’re talking about vodkas infused with juniper and vanilla, then mixed with marmalades and other exotica like pickled cucumber juice. The tastes are unique and leave you bandy-legged and shouting for more.

Spiskowcy Rozkoszy (D5) ul. Żurawia 47/49, spiskowcy.pl The ground floor is an intimate space with lots of yet-to-be-famous beers and junky, antique furniture that reminds of the Boho hangouts in Kraków. But what was a packed, little bar is now a packed, big bar with the opening of the basement: find a labyrinth of rooms and psychedelic toilets with pulsating lights – you soon wonder who spiked your drink. And oh, the drinks. Expect IPA and APA beers served from the six taps.

Syreni Śpiew ul. Szara 10A, syrenispiew.pl Set in a beautifully restored piece of PRL concrete, Syreni Śpiew’s lasting popularity has proved the doubters wrong. This is not some one season wonder, rather a place that has gone from strength to strength. Primarily known for its hefty whisky offer (which is divided into regions of Scotland, Ireland and Japan), the cocktails also stand up to scrutiny on account of their consistent quality. A genuinely unique drinking experience with cool elements of retro chic.

Syzyszka Chmielu Al. KEN 36, pubszyszkachmielu.pl The beer scene is Ursynów is seriously hopping up.

First came Pociąg Do Piwa, then Vyceska, and now this tongue twister. The 14 taps offer largely safe local options, so head to the fridge for adventurous brews from the likes of Mikeller, AleSmith and Nogne O. In an added plus, this is just about the first tap bar that realizes that some people out there like football: it’s filled with slick screens beaming the big match.

Varso Vie Pl. Konstytcuji 2, varso-vie.pl A cool bar / restaurant decorated with art that’s both sensual and suggestive. Behind the bar,

listings / nightlife homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. Try the Polish Colada: involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic

The View ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club looks set to reinvent the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. The look you need is sleek and stylish.

Vyceska ul. Polinezyjska 10 As welcome as the craft revolution has been, there are times you just want a good honest pint: so how about this, a multi-tap whose focus zooms on all things Czech. There’s eight taps and a wealth of bottles to traipse through as well as a small menu of food designed to sustain protracted drinking sessions. All this in an interior that’s dark and slick but not short of character – all of a sudden moving out to Ursynów seems a rather smart idea.

W Oparach Absurdu ul. Ząbkowska 6 Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

Warsaw Tortilla Factory (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, www.warsawtortillafactory.pl Warsaw’s premier sports pub: and it’s not just the extent of their sporting offer that elevates WTF, but the atmosphere. Whether it’s international rugby, or Bristol City on a Tuesday night, the tension, camaraderie and horseplay are unmatched. On the occasions when there is no sport, swing by for live bands and a lively atmosphere fueled by a heady mix of ex-pats, international students, and natives of all age.

Zorza ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work. But with even the sun sweating this summer, do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Seen as a hipster Center of Power, you’ll know if you belong.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11 A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out

clubs Enklawa (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12 Forget internet dating, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one night confidence boost.

Level 27 Al. Jerzolimskie 123 (Millennium Building), level27.pl Set on the 27th floor of the Mil-

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listings / nightlife lennium Building, Level 27 promises a world class clubbing experience with open air views of the city down below. In more ways than one, you’ll rarely feel closer to the stars.

Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty?

Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals. Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends, when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, platiniumclub.pl The place if you’re rich or beautiful – but preferably both.

Large and spectacular you’ll need to be dressed to the nines to reap the rewards that lie inside: featuring the most eye candy per sq/m in Europe, you might not find Mr/Mrs Right, but you will find Mr/Mrs Right for Now. Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305 Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.

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Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

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Sofia (D6) ul. Polna 13, klubsofia.pl Sofia have rebuilt the reputation earned during their city center heyday in the naughty noughties. Sure, the atmosphere is more restrained than in their former location, but the dancers aren’t.

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Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35 Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Klub 12/14 ul. Piwna 12/14, 12on14club.com Some-

times you’ve got to ask, just where are all the jazz bars? Well, at last the void has been filled with the entry of Klub 12/14 on the market. A schedule of daily evening concerts, a decent uncomplicated menu and a smart white design make it a welcome addition to the Old Town.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives and other fringe dwellers. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps along the enthusiastic crowd of latter day beatniks.

shot bars Bar Warszawa ul. Miodowa 2, barwarszawa.pl Creak upstairs to find a warm space filled out with sofas and nostalgic decorations such as vintage radios and black and white photos of bare breasted prostitutes. Run as a side project by a TV producer, flexible opening hours mean it doesn’t always close at the stated 4 a.m.

Meta ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5. metasetagalareta.pl Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar.

But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious.

Pijalnia ul. Nowy Świat 19, open 24hrs Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commie-era sports reports that are plastered to the wall.

Przekąski u Romana ul. Ludna 2, tel. 660 525 777 Bow-tied and debonair, proprietor Roman Modzelewski first came to attention as the bar steward of the defunct shot bar once found in the Hotel Europejski. Now he’s back, this time heading his own operation in hip Powiśle – it’s on its way to becoming a legend.

shopping accessories Agent Provocateur ul. Mokotowska 59, tel. 22 273 6162, www. agentprovocateur.com The boutique is stocked full of the latest collection – gorgeous lacy bras with scrumptious attention to detail, matching panties, teddies and a bunch of strappy get-ups you can only get away with if you’re very fit or very confident, but preferably both. And if that’s not enough, they’ve got sexy stockings, silk robes, perfume, satin gloves, a blindfold and nipple tassels…

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

HIGHLIGHTS OF MYSIA 3 CALVIN KLEIN Poland’s first Calvin Klein concept store is dedicated to watches, jewelry and assorted beautiful shiny things that everyone covets.

LEICA STORE (leicastore.pl) Books, accessories and cult cameras including the Leica T range, Leica M and Leica S, not to mention Impossible Polaroid cameras.

NAP (nap.com.pl) This charming store is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. More heavyduty goods such as bed frames and mattresses are also to be found.

SHE’S A RIOT (shesariot.com) A fashion-forward label for grownups – women who hover between a rock-inspired, whimsical twist on a retro Mad Men silhouette. Also plenty of fashion magazines, arty books and lifestyle accessories.

STETSON (stetson.pl) Head to the second floor to find this purveyor of quality Americana. Hats and caps in abundance, not to mention rereleased classics to coincide with the firm’s 150th birthday.

Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, pracowniaczasu.pl A true market leader with brands including Paul Picot, Graham London, Vulcain, Cuervo y Sobrinos, Ulysse Nardin and so many more.

fashion Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Bombay Shirts ul. Hoża 58/60, bombayshirts.com Custommade shirts for both men and women created from a choice of over 150 fabrics: among them the finest Egyptian cotton, two-ply cottons and pure linens. They promise shirts that are ‘modern and fast-paced but buttressed with old world charm’.

Chiara ul. Mokotowska 49 & pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.

Chrum ul. Dobra 53, chrum.com Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy their fashion with a pinch of humor.

Di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, Di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Vauthier, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Pierre Balmain, Ralh Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Muji ul Mysia 3, muji.com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

L’Aura ul. Mokotowska 26 Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Madox ul. Browarna 4, madoxdesign.com Best known for the baggy crotched trousers that took Warsaw by storm a couple of years back, Damian Nowacki’s fashion store juxtaposes urban street casual against unisex ideas.

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Pinko Klif shopping Centre, ul. Okopowa 58/72, Nowy Świat 1, Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), pinko.it Straight from Italy, this exclusive shop offers an array of chic day wear and eye-catching casual and evening clothes.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, open Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00; Sat-Sun 13:00-17:00, www.reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Two Can Play ul. Wilcza 32, two-can-play.com For those who value individuality in fashion owner Michał has created a progressive concept store that looks to promote brands that you’d struggle to find here: nat & nin, Denham, Eleven Paris, White Tent and much more besides.

Fashion

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Christian Louboutin, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Valentino, Yves Salomon, Pierre Balmain, Beach Bunny, Kotur, Marc by Marc Jacobs, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Victoria Beckham.Kolekcje dla dzieci: Baby Dior, Dolce&Gabbana Kids, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz

listings / shopping is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz.

Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

home Dado Design ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), dadodesign.pl ‘Beauty, modernity and functionality’. It’s on these foundations Dado’s philosophy is built.

Touting brands such as Bruhl, Gaber, Slide and Infiniti, this design store carries pieces chosen for their style and originality. Find it all from sofas and tables to picture frames and salt shakers. Your flat will thank you.

Le Galerie Parisienne ul. Wilcza 8, facebook. com/lagalerieparisienne With about two thirds of the stock sourced from France, there’s a sense of originality to the imaginative items: from reclaimed antiques (a 1940 dentist’s cabinet) to quirky odds and ends (hand-painted brooches, framed artwork and hilarious coffee mugs), it’s the ideal place to personalize your home.

Mokotowska 71 ul. Mokotowska 71, mokotowska71.pl Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style.

Murano Casa Piękna 24/26A, muranocasa.pl Calling Murano Casa ‘interesting’ would be courting severe understatement. From high bling (fancy chandeliers and gob-stopping furniture) to more moderate offers (Venetian carnival masks), it’s a great place to add some pizzazz to the home. The quality of the Italian brands can’t be disputed.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, www.arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented.

Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, open Mon-Thur 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, open Mon-Sat 10:00-22:00; Sun 10:00-21:00, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500, open Mon-Sat 09:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00. klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:00-20:00, placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, open Mon-Sat 10:00-20:00; Sun 12:00-18:00, mysia3. pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, open Mon-Sat 11:00-21:00; Sun 11:00-18:00, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, open Mon-Sat 9:00-22:00; Sun 9:00-21:00, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club

made to measure suits and shirts Suits from 2600 PLN Shirts from 400 PLN

ul. Sienna 39 tel. 22 243 7377 www.vanthorn.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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family activities Barwy Muzyki ul. Niecała 14, tel. 22 188 18 27, www. barwymuzyki.pl This informal music school, with highly qualified teachers experienced in the Colour Strings program, acknowledges not every child will be a professional musician but that playing, listening and singing to music is an asset to their development. Group or individual lessons on piano, violin, guitar, cello and flute for 6-12yrs.

DER ELEFANT (Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.pl) Don’t’ be fooled by the grandeur of the courtyard entrance. Yes it’s designed by the Oscar winning production designer for Schindler’s List, but kids are high on this restaurant’s priority list. Play safe and reserve a table on the third floor by the kid’s play/kitchen area or, for children with master chef tendencies, sit at the fish bar and watch octopus or king crab being prepared in the open kitchen.

IZUMI SUSHI (Biały Kamień 4, bialy-kamien.izumisushi.eu) It’s not often kids can run about freely in a restaurant with a kitchen run by an award winning chef! But at Izumi Sushi in Biały Kamień they can do just that. Alon Than has just returned from Japan with the World’s Best Sushi Chef title, and it can be said his two-level restaurant, centered around an indoor forest, a 100-year old palm tree and indoor/outdoor play area for children is worthy of an award too. The children’s menu is varied but the zł. 1 kodomo set, including learner chopsticks, is a great introduction to the Japanese dining experience.

THE BOATHOUSE (Wał Miedzeszyński 389A, boathouse.pl) Even during chilly autumn/winter Sunday’s they know how to keep everybody content. A supervised playground is provided, with games and copious amounts of chocolate to be consumed by your child. For six long, lazy hours of eating and drinking the price tags (zł. 139 for adults and zł 49 for children aged 7-12 years) are reasonable. An open bar and 50+ mouthwatering Mediterranean dishes await you. Just make sure you don’t forget the kids when you leave!

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Fryzjerkowo ul. Foksal 12/14, tel. 22 827 2744, open Mon-Fri 10:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-18:00, www.fryzjerkowo.pl This 100% child friendly hair salon with jungle theme interior will guarantee no tears! Whilst having their locks chopped children sit in a toy car and watch a favorite DVD. Mum can peruse the retro toys and classic books on sale. Owner speaks excellent English. Advance booking recommended.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, www.atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/ art history) for children, young people and adults.

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in

PHOTOGRAPH BY GILL BOELMAN-BURROWS

REFINING FAMILY DINING

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, www.kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

listings / family physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter and schedule check their web.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges.

Children from three years old are welcome to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls!

education

HulaKula ul. Dobra 56/66, tel. 22 552 74 00, open Mon-Tue 12:00-24:00; Wed 12:00-1:00; Fri 12:00-3:00; Sat 10:00-4:00; Sun 10:00-24:00, www.hulakula.com.pl Bowling alley and soft indoor playground: heaven for kids and hell for grown-ups! Children love to climb, explore and slide into large ball pools.

Parents hate the lack of daylight and fast food menu.

Little Chef ul. Bałuckiego 30/1, tel. 501 093 691, www.littlechef.pl (visit for more information) Cooking classes for children age 3-16. Groups for younger children age 4-10 and Junior Chef courses age 11-16. Kids cook and eat healthy meals. Great fun! Classes in English and Polish, Mon-Sat.

preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, www.aswarsaw.org ASW provides an American-styled educational program to students aged 4 and 5. The curriculum offers a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities. For further information and/ or to visit our school, contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, www.bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate.

Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. Currently, admission is offered to children between 2 and 9 years old for 2015/16.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel.

22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.pl, www.thebritishschool.pl The British School provides special classes from pre-nursery aged 30 months to 6 years old. Children at the Early Years Centre move on to our Primary and Secondary schools at Limanowskiego 15.

The British School of Warsaw in Wilanów ul. Hlonda / Ledóchowskiej, tel.

781 988 000, bsww.pl The school is affiliated with University of Cambridge International Examinations which mandates the educational program, qualifications and examinations for pupils up to 19 years of age. Currently admission is offered only to children between 2 and 7 years old (Nursery and Reception, Year 1 levels) for 2014/15. Older children are encouraged to submit application for 2015/16 or 2016/17.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www. thelittlegym.pl Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Manufaktura Cukierów ul. Tamka 49 (enter from Ordynacka), open Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00; Sat 11:00-17:30; Sun 13:00-17:30, tel. 692 888 751, www. manufaktura-cukierkow.pl Sweet making courses in a confectionary factory! Lessons are conducted in Polish, though enthusiasm is more important than a mastery of the language.

Mums & Tots www.mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee

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listings / family since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, www.warsawmontessori. edu.pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

Ecole Antoine de Saint-Exupery ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 616 14 99, www.ecolemontessori.pl The preschool is located in the Saska Kępa district and provides a Montessori curriculum in French for children aged from 18 months to 6 years old.

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The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:0016.00, www.theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep. edu.pl An English primary school designed to prepare children for their next steps in education and life in a friendly, caring and nurturing environment. Following the English curriculum in a truly English primary school setting we take children from the international community through the key learning stages so they achieve to their best ability through a fun learning experience.

The International Preschool of Warsaw ul. Kalatowki 24, tel. 22 843 0964, ipw.edu.plIPW is located in

a residential area of Mokotów, within walking distance of Królikarnia as well as both tram and metro lines. Children from 2.5 to 6 years old are welcome. English is the language spoken and breakfast, lunch and snacks are provided during the day. Children also have the opportunity to participate in gymnastics, music, art and drama classes. IPW serves the international community and prepares children for international education.

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, www.mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, www.

listings / family aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, www.thebritishschool.pl Top-ranking private school in Warsaw providing outstanding education based on the British system.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual GIVE arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery,

TION

art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

atmosphere. Highly qualified native Frenchspeaking teachers.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl, www.canadian-school. pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, open Mon-Sat 10.30-19:00, Sun 11:00-19:00, www.figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

cafes

Fiku Miku ul. Zwycięzców 32, tel. 692 448 112, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00, www.fikumikucafe.pl This small, jolly cafe is dedicated to children. The focus is on films and creative workshops. Designer Polish toys are on sale alongside a healthy menu, and fresh cake selection. Check FB for updates as this café closes for private birthday parties.

Ecole Antoine de Kalimba Saint-Exupery ul. Mierosławskiego 19, tel. 22 839 75 60 ul. Nobla 16, tel. 22 or 501 183 953, open Mon-Fri 9:30-20:00; 616 14 99, www.saintSat-Sun 10:00-20:00, www.kalimba.pl exupery.pl Established Kalimba café caters to Warsaw’s boho-chic in 1994, the Antoine de community. Relax with long latte’s or nibble Saint-Exupery preschool and school provides healthy snacks whilst kids climb a spiral staira French curriculum for children aged from case to the indoor tree house, role-play in YOUR CHILD 3 to eleven years old A in aPREMIUM welcoming familyEDUCAthe kitchen area or join creative workshops.

GIVE YOUR CHILD A PREMIUM EDUCATION

www.thebritishschool.pl

founded in 1992

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listings / family The shop, with original handmade toys is tempting, but it’s the pick’n’mix candy that’s unavoidable!

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), tel. 661 064 944 or 605 084 804, open 9:00-20:00, www.kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, open Mon-Fri 8:00-21:30; Sat-Sun 9:00-21:30, www.nabocafe.pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

Nowa Kuźnia (Wilanów) ul. Stanisława Kostki-Potockiego 24, tel. 500 200 200, open Mon-Fri 12:00-22:00; Sat-Sun 11:00-22:00, www. nowakuznia.pl Hugely child friendly, Nowa Kuźnia comes into its element each summer when the garden is turned into a giant faux beach – complete with diggers, slides and a see-saw.

Peek-a-boo ul. Karola Chodkiewicza 7, tel. 22 370 21 71,

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open Mon-Sun 10:00-20:00 The pale palette and plush velvet upholstered furniture might not be the first choice of fabrics around sticky, chocolaty paws but every mummy needs a bit of luxury from time-to-time. The café divides its limited square meters evenly between parent and child expectations, creating space to relax, eat and play in: however, the gigantic doll’s house does suggest Barbie got the best deal.

shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. www.bimbus.com. pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

Endo www.endo.pl Endo is the original home of quality children’s wear that embraced great design by Polish artists and accompanied it with Polish slogans. Much of the materials used are organic, hardwearing and wash well.

Lullaby Multiple locations, www.lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

Mimbla ul.Mokotowska 51/53, tel. 22 629 3065, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00; Sat 10:00-14:00.

Exclusively for kids on Warsaw’s most exclusive shopping street it’s an Aladdin’s cave of quality toys and Polish/English books. Get your gift wrapped here and both mum and child will be happy even before opening it.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel.

22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. www.pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

health & beauty gyms Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

FIVE OF THE BEST: LADIES HAIR BARTEK JANUSZ SALON (pictured) (ul. Mokotowska 19, www.bartekjanusz.pl) The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

HAIR A PORTER (ul. Belwederska 23 (Hyatt Hotel, level -1), www.hair-a-porter.pl) A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing expert staff and top-quality products.

HAIRCOLOGY (ul. Rozbrat 44A, www.haircology.pl) An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

KOMIKS (ul. Radna 12, komikspowisle.pl) You know those weird haircuts that people like David Bowie and Lady Gaga have? Well, here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get one yourself.

Henna art, manicure / pedicure also available.

YOU & YOU MACIEJ WRÓBLEWSKI (ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), youandyou.eu) Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www.holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł. 200 per month, though prices are subject to change.

For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well. www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59 (floor 3, opposite McDonald’s), tel. 22 379 7777, open Mon-Fri 6:00-22:30; Sat 8:00-22:30; Sun 8:00-21:00, www. jatomifitness.pl The largest and fastest growing fitness chain in Poland currently has 35 locations and 117,000 members across the country. All clubs have new generation machines, innovative forms of group activities (Booiaka, Hot Yoga, Pure Pump, Pure Fire and Wah Gwan Dancehall) and professional personal trainers schooled in nutrition and the healthy lifestyle.

Pure Jatomi Fitness Platinum Zodiak ul. Widok 26, tel. 22 100 3400, open 24hrs, www.jatomifitness.pl Poland’s fastest growing fitness chain has been recognized for excellence after being named SCF Leisure & Fitness Retailer of the Year 2014. Other Pure Jatomi clubs in Warsaw include: Blue City, Galeria Renova, Sadyba Best Mall, Promenada and Targówek.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350 for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

dental clinics ArtDental ul. Łucka 18, tel. 22 654 3006, artdental.pl Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced.

Aster Med ul. Św. Bonifacego 92, tel. 22 858 0354,

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www.astermed.pl Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons.

EuroDental Various locations, tel. 22 380 7000, eurodental.pl English-speaking dentists on request. Lacking the ‘boutique’ charm of some of Warsaw’s more modish clinics, the service here is both efficient and moderately priced.

Malo Clinic Domaniewska 37 (3rd floor), tel. 22 393 6333, www.maloclinics.com/polska This world class dental clinic incorporates five dental offices, an operating room, two recovery rooms and a state-of-the-art diagnostic center.

Odent ul. Nowoursynowska 145E (entry from ul.

Rosoła) & ul. Duchnicka 3, tel. 22 405 4430, odent.pl Dubbed ‘the clinic with a heart’, Odent’s personal approach is complimented by expert staff and the latest and most advanced treatments and equipment.

English-speaking service also available.

medical clinics Damian Medical Center Various locations, see website for details: damian.pl Established in 1994, Damian offer a wide range of medical services in their hospital and five outpatient clinics. English spoken widely.

Medicover Various locations, see website for details: medicover.pl Hugely popular amongst ex-pats, Medicover offer a wide range of membership schemes for both private and corporate clients. The jewel in their crown is a state-of-the-art hospital in the Wilanów district.

Therapy Warsaw ul. Filtrowa 69/13, tel. 601 532 319, www.therapywarsaw.com English-speaking therapy for couples and individuals dealing with relationships, eating disorders, trauma, stress and much more besides.

spas & salons

0 Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Bio.Sis Nail Spa ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404. A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414. A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Warsaw Hotel, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www. hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

listings / health & beauty Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, open Mon-Fri 10:00-20:00; Sat 10:00-last guest, www.haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/ clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

The Hermit Barber Shop pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience.

La Plata ul. Wielicka 42, tel. 517 576 667, laplataspa.pl Manual and mechanized massage in a relaxed space inspired by Buddhist philosophy. Treatments include herbal stamp Thai massage and hot coconut oil massage amongst others.

Izar Repechage ul. Moliera 1, tel. 604 209 900 or 22 827 7195, open Mon-Fri 8:00-20:00; Sat 8:0014:00, www.repechage.net.pl A gorgeous city spa which a range of treatments for the whole body.

Komiks ul. Radna 12, tel. 881 436 056, komiks.waw. pl You know those weird haircuts that people like David Bowie and Lady Gaga have?

Well, here’s the place to make that ultimate fashion statement and get one yourself.

Henna art, manicure / pedicure also offered.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00, Sat 9:00-16:00.

This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 6290, pardonmyfrench.pl The equipment here is state-of-the art, particularly the massage chairs for indulgent pedicures. While gel tips and all that hybrid stuff is all the rage now, it might be more prudent to get a classic mani/pedi to avoid beauty emergencies when you’re drifting in the middle of the Mediterranean on P. Diddy’s yacht.

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000

or 505 828 688, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Rostowski ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

Odent was established to ensure the highest level of service on the dental map of Warsaw. We offer flexible hours, cutting edge technology and two branches in convenient locations in Żoliborz and Ursynów.

Scope of services: • Orthodontics • Teeth Whitening • Cutting-edge prosthetics

• Dental surgery and maxillofacial implants • Conservative treatment, cosmetic dentistry

• Treatment of children • Root canal treatment of teeth using traditional microscopic • X-ray lab

Żoliborz: ul. Duchnicka 3 bud.4, entrance A • Ursynów: Nowoursynowska 145 E (entrance from ul. Rosoła), www.odent.pl, tel. 22 405 44 30

www.warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

in the city

CITY SNOOP: SASKI PARK

Originally inspired by the baroque gardens of Versailles, Ogród Saski was mapped out in 1713 to complement the nearby Saski Palace. In 1727 the decision was made to share its glory with the public, a move that made it one of the first publicly accessed parks in the world. But it was in 1816 that it assumed its current guise, largely thanks to a redesign by English horticulturist James Savage. His reboot saw its style shift drastically from French to typical English landscaped garden. His efforts weren’t simply rooted in fashion, but also deemed a necessity: after the failed Kościuszko Uprising in 1794, the gardens were ransacked by Tsarist troops, with many of its embellishments carted off to St. Petersburg. An ornate 1,000 seater theater – added in 1870 – cemented the park’s status as ‘Warsaw’s summer salon’, and it was here luminaries such as Pola Negri performed: it was never rebuilt after a direct hit in 1939. Closed off to Poles in 1942, the park suffered more destruction in 1944, and the nearby palace was razed with only the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier surviving. Other elements were more fortunate, among them a 19th century sundial, a chalice-shaped fountain designed by Henryk Marconi, a classicist water tower inspired by the Temple of Vesta in Tivoli and a row of sandstone statues depicting both muses and virtues.

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl

Hotel Reytan ul. T. Rejtana 6, tel. 22 201 6400, www.reytan.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

B&B

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com

Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl

Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com

Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

car rental

3-Star Hotels

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl Castle Inn Pl. Zamkowy, ul. Świętojańska 2, tel. 22 425 0100, www.castleinn.pl Golden Tulip ul. Towarowa 2, tel. 22 582 7500.

Holiday Inn Express Warsaw Airport ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, www.hiexpress.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Hotel Belwederski ul. Sulkiewicza 11, tel. 22 840 4011, www.hotelbelwederski.pl

Novotel Warszawa (Airport) ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl Trust Rent a Car ul. Marynarska 14, tel. 22 843 0580, www. trustrentacar.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city RESIDENTS relocation companies Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

community

museums

Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel.

880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00.

ChopinPASS The Fryderyk Chopin Institute, together with CityInfo, have launched a direct connection between Warsaw and Żelazowa Wola as part of an initiative called ChopinPASS. This package includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. Priced at zł. 99, visitors can purchase the pass at PKiN, the Chopin Museum as well as at: chopinpass.com

International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults.

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New Relo Planet to town? There’s few better ways to give your ul. Lwowska 5, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet. social life a jump start than popping along to com International and domestic removals, one of the informal drinks mixers conducted transport and logistics solutions including

by Professionals in Warsaw. Natives and office and individual moves, diplomatic foreigners of all backgrounds and professions posts, small shipments, storage and artwork are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your IN JANUARY E-LEARNING FOR FREE!own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

Contact us for more details.

polish for foreigners

POLISH LANGUAGE SCHOOL FOR FOREIGNERS TAILOR-MADE individual and minigroup courses - intensive - regular - weekend at the school or at your place First Lesson Free Free conversation classes

ARY IN JANU ARNING

E Klub DialoguE-LR E! FO FRE ul. OrdynackaC13/5, ontact us ils. www.klubdialogu.pl ta de info@klubdialogu.pl e or for m tel. 664 788 004, tel. 664 788 004 klubdialogu.pl Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland offer a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.

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St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations.

The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English.

Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets.

The Heritage Interpretation Center ul. Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl Beginning with a gigantic tapestry of Warsaw circa 1873, this little known venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction. Walking over a glass floor, beneath which lies smashed masonry and columns recovered from the ruins, a series of then-and-now slides and pictures document Old Town’s annihilation.

If the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personal-

listings / in the city ize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Invisible Exhibition Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl Nothing challenges the sense of sight more than a total lack of it. Confused? Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind. This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar.

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays are numerous and quirky, and include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw ul. Pańska 3, artmuseum.pl The first museum of modern art in Warsaw, still fighting for a proper location, bravely manages to provide visitors with a display of contemporary Polish and international art.

Museum of Technology Palace of Culture, pl. Defilad 1, muzeumtechniki.warszawa.pl Following a maze-like route in the Palace of Culture, there’s curios aplenty: a Viennese calculator dating from 1898 that’s still in working order; a glowing ‘glass lady’ that lights up to demonstrate the inner workings of the body; communist era sports cars; a WWII Enigma machine. More pertinent to the younger generation, there’s a selection of vintage phones and laptop computers that hipsters would give their life for.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery

holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Probably the most famous gallery in Poland, this Zachęta has a thrilling, and at times controversial repertoire that makes it a must for modern art buffs.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

www.warsawinsider.pl

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LOOKING BACK

Heaven’s Gate

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nyone who has ever looked for a cheap flat to rent in the centre of Warsaw, gone shopping in and around Hala Mirowska or just gazed curiously at a map and wondered about the alphabet-soup of names printed on it will no doubt have heard of Żelazna Brama (the Iron Gate) and its grammatical cousin Za Żelazną Bramą (Behind the Iron Gate). But what was this gate and what was behind it?

The original Iron Gate was simply the western gate to the Saxon Gardens, opened in 1727 and one of the first parks in the world to be open to the public. The gate separated the park from the area behind it, which became known as za Żelazną Bramą or behind the Iron Gate. The iron entrance way, taken down in 1818, stood on what is today the patch of grass in the middle of Marszałkowska between the Saxon Gardens and Plac Żelaznej Bramy.

The area behind the Iron Gate has always been a major market and in the past it offered Varsovians who were prepared to tolerate the noise, filth, vermin and squalor a wide range of goods at prices cheaper than elsewhere in the city. The market area took on a form that is more recognisable to people today in 1901 when the two Hala Mirowska market halls were opened, and this process was completed when the Lubomirski Palace was spun by 74 degrees in 1970 in a pioneering feat of engineering to close off Plac Żelaznej Bramy to the west and separate the square from the market area.

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The square has little going on around it and few visitors, although those who do make the short walk from the earthy pleasures of Hala Mirowska can spend a solitary moment with the towering statue of Tadeusz Kościuszko, a copy of the one in Washington.

The Żelazna Brama epitaph is probably most often associated with the walloping housing estate of nineteen 15-storey high rise blocks built in 1965-72 over 63-hectares known as Osiedle Za Żelazną Bramą. In the 1960s, people throughout the world were announcing the death of Corbusier-inspired Modernism. Poland, though, had yet to grow out of short trousers. The estate was a bold attempt on a vast scale to mould the socialist man through his environment, something made possible by the wartime devastation of the German-created Small Ghetto. However, the best ideas of the architects, such as roof-top gardens and cafes, as well as shops for residents filling the first two storeys, were thwarted by communist planners, who even objected to kitchens having windows.

Hated, adored, but never ignored. This marmite housing estate is undergoing reassessment. With the rapid pace of construction that has taken place since the transformation, the estate has been sucked into the centre and has lost a lot of its character. On the other hand, it answers the needs of many groups of inhabitants, who want affordable accommodation near colleges, office centres, nightlife and the city’s many other attractions.

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

The concrete sprawl that is the Żelazna Brama (Iron Gate ) housing estate has detractors aplenty, but there’s a deeper story behind the carbuncles… BY STUART DOWELL