Warsaw Insider October 2016 #242

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

OCTOBER 2016

EST. 1996

242 10/2016

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

• Neo-Gothic Praga • The Horror House!

• Warsaw’s 1st Craft Brewery • Hell’s Kitchen: Michał Bryś • Travel: Kiermusy

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH AQUAZZURA BALMAIN BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KOTUR MAISON MICHEL ONE TEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

OCTOBER 2016 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

September. Not only did Warsaw face the hideous reality of returning to work after its annual summer break, it did so in searing temperatures that had hitherto skirted the capital. There were times you could feel the bricks baking in the heat. Autumn, therefore, arrived to a hero’s welcome. There are other reasons to celebrate as well: Warsaw’s first craft brewery is now up and running, so you can bin any plans for a sober October. Inside, we’ve got the story behind the debut of Browar Palatum. On a more cultural note, we’ve explored Praga to bring you features on its Neo Gothic history and its glorious museum, and also entered into the spirit of Halloween with a look at local ghosts and a real house of horror. We’ve even come face to face with the devil himself: his name is Michał and he’s the host of Hell’s Kitchen. Not surprisingly, we needed a break after that, which is why you’ll also find a bumper travel feature on the heaven that is Kiermusy. Hope you enjoy it all, and see you next issue…

INFRONT

Opener 9 News 10 Just Landed 12 Praga Museum 14

FEATURES

Warsaw’s First Brewery 18 Ghost Stories 20 Horror House 22 Neo Gothic Praga 24 Devil In The Kitchen 28 Travel: Kiermusy 30

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

REVIEWS

MOD Donuts 35 Zmiana Klimatu 36 Skamiejka 38 Warsaw Beer Festival 38 No Comment 39 Sexy Duck 40 Taverna Patris 41

LISTINGS

Neighborhood 44 Restaurants 47 Cafes & Wine Bars 80 Nightlife 84

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

Shopping 89 Family 98 Health & Beauty 103 In the City 106

Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Senior Key Account Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2016 Warsaw Insider.

PARTNER NEWS

on the cover

The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers… 42

Halloween is here, and it doesn’t get any spookier than the glowering edifices of Neo Gothic Praga.

See p. 24

INBACK

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Map 110 Looking Back 112

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

Dreadful things happened in

BUSCEMI MEN CANADA GOOSE CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN HOGAN KENZO MONCLER MR&MRS ITALY ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TORY BURCH VALENTINO MEN BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS RALPH LAUREN KIDS TOD’S KIDS

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 tel.: +48 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

this month...

Food

Festival

1-2 Oct @ ul. Towarowa 3 More than just food trucks, the Nocny Market’s line-up includes local restaurants, craft stalls, a bar, and even a tattoo studio. It’s been the smash of the summer and now it’s wrapping up for the season with one final outing! Open from 5 p.m. on Fri/Sat, and from 4 p.m. on Sun.

13-15 Oct @ Legia Stadium, ul. Łazienkowska 3 The Warsaw Beer Festival presents craft beer galore from international and domestic brewers and a whole load of food trucks. For details, see: warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl

Festival

Warsaw Film Festival

Nocny Market

Korczak Festival 1-12 Oct @ various locations Held in selected theaters around town, the Korczak festival is a celebration of dramatic art aimed at children and adolescents. To meet this end, a series of performances, workshops and exhibitions have all been lined up for the 20th edition of this popular event.

For further details, see: korczak-festival.pl

Culture

Days of Remembrance

Editor’s Pick Sao Paulo Underground After a brief hiatus, Pardon To Tu return to the live music scene with performances by one of the most important contemporary avant garde jazz bands around.

25-26 Oct, Pardon, To Tu, pl. Grzybowski 12/16

5-8 Oct @ Museum of Pawiak Prison, ul. Dzielna 24/26 A series of tours, exhibitions, seminars and discussions are planned as part of a series of events that commemorate ‘the memory of the martyrdom and heroism’ of the people who passed through this notorious prison.

For details, see: muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl

Concert

Skye & Ross 6 Oct @ Progresja, Fort Wola 22 Sky Edwards and Ross Godfrey of Morcheeba fame team up to create a sound that’s been described as ‘spellbinding, unforgettable aural journey’.

Their Warsaw visit is part of a wider European tour to promote their new album.

Tickets from zł. 95 @ ebilet.pl

Festival

Warsaw Tattoo Convention 8-9 Oct @ Legia Stadium, ul. Łazienkowska 3 Those with a love for ink and piercings need look no further this month than the 4th Warsaw International Tattoo Convention – it’s every bit as insane as it is inspiring. For details, see: tattooconvention.waw.pl Tickets from zł. 35 @ kupbilet.onet.pl

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

5th Warsaw Beer Festival

Tickets zł. 10-120 @ eventim.pl

Festival

7-16 Oct @ various locations The WFF has evolved into one of the most prestigious festivals that Warsaw has on offer. The festival showcases the best of Polish, European and international cinema, with a mission statement to increase international awareness of Polish film and culture. Audience interaction is encouraged by way of meetings and seminars with those involved in the industry.

For further info, see: wff.pl

Concert

New Model Army 11 Oct @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99 Founded in 1980, this Bradford born band enjoyed their heyday in the 80s, yet remain as relevant as ever. They’ll be visiting Poland as part of a promotional tour related to the release of their latest album, Winter.

Tickets from zł. 65 @ eventim.pl

Concert

Zucchero 11 Oct @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 Known as ‘the father of Italian blues’, Zucchero’s global record sales top over fifty million. During a career that’s spanned over three decades, he’s collaborated and performed alongside such luminaries as Eric Clapton, Sting, Ray Charles and Pavarotti. Tracks from his latest album, Black Cat, are expected to feature alongside many of his bestselling hits.

Tickets from zł. 149 @ eventim.pl

Concert

PJ Harvey 12 Oct @ Torwar, ul. Łazienkowska 6 Holder of an MBE and the recipient of numerous accolades, PJ Harvey requires little introduction. Her latest album, The

Hope Six Demolition Project, is her first studio outing since the 2011 release of Let England Shake.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

FIVE FLAVOURS FILM FESTIVAL

Tickets from zł. 159 @ eventim.pl

Concert

November 16-23 Kinoteka (PKiN, Pl. Defilad 1) & Kino Muranów (ul. Andersa 5) piecsmakow.pl

Imany

15 Oct @ Progresja, Fort Wola 22 Imany’s distinctive transatlantic voice and Afro-soul sound first came to mainstream attention with her debut 2011 release The Shape of a Broken Heart, an album which went triple platinum in Poland. Her reputation here in Poland mean tickets are expected to go fast.

Tickets from zł. 125 @ eventim.pl

Music

The only overview of cinema from South and South-East Asia in Poland, the 10th edition of the Five Flavours includes a category devoted to New Asian Cinema. Other festival highlights include a looks at the films of Sion Sono, one of the most original contemporary Japanese directors around. Furthermore, the ‘Warriors’ category sets the spotlight on martial arts movies, while another chapter will be devoted to the cinematic output of North Korea. As always, expect workshops, seminars and Q&A sessions with directors to pad out the festival’s schedule.

Vinyl Market 15-16 Oct @ Miłość, ul. Kredytowa 9 Exactly what it says on the tin: this record fair draws a diverse range of stores and record labels covering an almost impossibly wide range of genres.

MEDIA PATRONAGE

For further info, see: fb.com/winylmarket

Concert

Ugly Kid Joe 22 Oct @ Proxima, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 99 These Californian rockers are best remembered for two seismic albums: As Ugly As They Wanna Be and America’s Least Wanted. Last year saw the long awaited release of their first album since the band’s split in 1997.

Tickets from zł. 79 @ eventim.pl

ROADS-MEMORIES

October 28 Sen Nocy Letniej (ul. Oleandrów 5)

Roads is a contemporary and highly creative lifestyle brand with its products, perfumes and books created on the basis of modern culture, free thinking, original design and intelligence. Its fragrances play on feelings of ‘the road and remembrance’. During this evening, Roads-Memories aims to demonstrate the link between paper and fragrances: ‘two fleeting vehicles of memories’. Admission is free with the event scheduled to start at 8 p.m.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town THE MARRIOTT HOTEL IN NUMBERS

87,602 Square meters Total floor area

15,000 Złoty

The fine for illegally climbing the tower

1989 The year

Of its completion

1987 The year

Construction began

523

The number of hotel rooms

Available in the Marriott LOCAL

ILLUSTRATION BY MARIA MILEŃKO

Saved To The Warsaw Wish List

Over 90 structures have been added to a register of protected buildings following growing concerns that Warsaw was tearing down its modernist architectural heritage. Earlier in the year a public furore was sparked when news broke that developers were planning to demolish the iconic Syreni Śpiew to replace it with luxury condos. The outrage grew to a crescendo when, within weeks, it was confirmed that the former Emilia furniture store housing the Museum of Modern Art would also face the wrecking ball. The resulting backlash saw hundreds of people attending debates and discussions to voice their displeasure, and thousands more lobbying the local government through other means.

As an upshot of this, in March the city’s deputy conservator, Michał Krasucki, presented City Hall with a shortlist of 50 projects that his department wanted to safeguard; however, in a shock move Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz issued a special decree in September guaranteeing the future of over 90 objects of architectural significance. Among others now secured from the avaricious eye of the real estate developers, those entered into the register include the Lim Center housing the Marriott Hotel, the Finnish Embassy, the ‘hammerhead’ tower at the bottom of ul. Smolna, the Wilanów Poster Museum and the Trasa W-Z tunnel.

179 Meters

Its total height

30

Meters

The height of the antenna on top

3

People

The number of climbers to scale the hotel without equipment

www.warsawinsider.pl

9

inFront

news

WEATHER

AVIATION

The British Met Office has issued a list of 21 names that will be given to the worst storms that lash the country over the next 12 months. Selected by forecasters after over 10,000 suggestions were submitted by the public, the Polish name Kamil made the cut alongside other surprise entries such as Wilbert, Oisin and Fleur.

Authorities have introduced a series of measures to curb the use of drones. Hobbyists are now forbidden from flying them within 100 meters of built-up areas, roads and power lines. Incidents have included a close shave at Chopin Airport that led to all flights being suspended for 30 minutes.

Stormy Times

Drone Out

ART

A new mural has been unveiled outside Metro Centrum as part of a campaign to promote the Polish capital as the city of Chopin. As part of the initiative, a number of interactive tours and applications – such as Chopin in Warsaw and Selfies With Chopin – have also been developed and launched. To learn more, see: chopin. warsawtour.pl WILDLIFE

Hiss Off A slippery customer forced a bank in Wilanów to temporarily close in September after terrified workers noticed a 15-centimeter grass snake slithering with menace. The news comes a few months after a one-meter python was discovered curled up inside a Praga toilet bowl.

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

ALL PHOTOS SHUTTERSTOCK EXCEPT CHOPIN BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Modern Day Chopin

inFront

just landed

A Flying Start

Advice from the inside: each month we swoop on a native know-it-all or expat expert to give you the lowdown on the Warsaw you need to know when you’ve just landed…

Sightseeing

Between the three of them, the Rising, Chopin and Polin Museums cover three key areas of Warsaw’s history, but personally I prefer checking out whatever new exhibition might be happening at Dom Spotkań z Historią. The biggest museum though is the city itself. The whole place is a living lesson. If I’ve got free time then I love nothing more than just walking into courtyards I’ve never been in before: you’ll always find something strange and new.

Drink

Left to Right: Pre-war courtyard on Wilcza; fermation at Solec 44.

Warsaw doesn’t have the same amount of old buildings as other cities, so it’s great that surviving streets like Nowogrodzka, Poznańska and Wilcza are being used to their maximum potential. I don’t see Beirut ever going out of style: there’s been a cutting edge to it ever since it opened. It feels like there’s never been a better time to go out in Warsaw: whoever you are and whatever you earn. From the new places this summer, I love the

cocktails and devil-maycare attitude of Fokim.

Food

Magda F.

Trainee tour guide and ‘Warsaw maniac’

“Warsaw has fantastic international standard museums, but the only way to ever really get to grips with the city is through walking its streets and talking to its people. Don’t be scared – we don’t bite!”

Solec 44 excites me. The versatility of the place means it’s great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as students, but that’s the kind of atmosphere here.

The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron. His obsession with old recipes, fresh produce and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. On the other hand, if money is no object, then think Nolita!

Shop

I’m not the biggest shopaholic about, but it’s hard to resist an autumn walk down Mokotowska. The architecture gives the street a certain atmosphere, especially at this time of year: it feels more continental than you’d maybe expect.

At the same time, it’s great that most of the stores don’t represent international chain brands, but Polish designers on their way to the top. It’s not just about clothes, either – there’s loads of antique stores and artistic bookshops.

I love how the National Stadium has become more than just a National Football Stadium that’s only used once a month.

Proving that, this month sees the opening of a 3D Prehistoric Oceanarium that runs till December. I’d also use October to make the most of the city’s parks. Łazienki might be the obvious one, but it’s hard to beat when the Polish weather turns gold: but watch out for the squirrels, some of them are psycho!

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

In October…

HEALTHY & DELICIOUS BREAKFAST SETS FROM PLN 19.00

FRESH & TASTY LUNCH SETS FROM PLN 19.00

DELIGHTFUL FLAVOURS FROM ACROSS THE GLOBE

PARTY THE NIGHT AWAY WITH OUR DJ’S & LIVE BANDS

SO MANY OPTIONS, SO LITTLE TIME, ENJOY THE MOMENT! STIXX Bar & Grill Plac Europejski 4A 00-844 Warsaw Tel. (22) 340 40 40

Mon - Thu Fri Sat Sun

7.30 - 24.00 hrs 7.30 - 2. 00 hrs 9.00 - 2.00 hrs 9.00 - 23.00 hrs

www.stixx.pl

museum

The Roots of Praga

Celebrating their first birthday this autumn, the Insider heads east for a look inside the acclaimed Praga Museum…

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

Warsaw’s heavyweight museums have the city in a choke-

hold: completely unmissable, they’ve become the unchallenged superstars of the tourist circuit. By comparison, the Praga Museum will never emulate this elite, nor will it ever exert the kind of magnetic pull of the museums of Polin, Chopin and the Rising. But you get the idea it doesn’t want to. It’s not a place that wants to hog the headlines or change the world, it just wants to tell a story. That story is about a district and its people, and its told with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as powerful and punchy as that of the big boys.

Opened last September, the exhibition strikes a balance between traditionalist and contemporary approaches, with the first room, ‘The Hall of Praga’s History’, a good example of this: a photographic exhibi-

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

inFront

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine.

The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world.

Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

The restaurant and wine store Merliniego 5, located vis-à- vis the main entrance to the Warszawianka Aqua Park, is the ideal place for those who love good food and fantastic wines. Merliniego 5 specialises in seafood dishes and steaks made of American Black Angus (prime beef USDA certified), especially selected from the New York-based OTTOMANELLI & SONS butchery. The restaurant also serves steaks made of the Aberdeen Angus and top quality Japanese beef from Tajima cattle, “Kobe style” (grade 5A/BMS 9+). Further, menu offers seasonal and traditional Polish cuisine dishes. At the end of 2011, the readers of Gazeta Stołeczna granted us the prestigious title of Knajpa Roku 2011 (Eating Establishment of the Year 2011). Since 2013 we have also been listed in the Michelin Guide. ul. Merliniego 5, tel. (+48 22) 646 08 10 / (+48 22) 646 08 49, www.merliniego5.pl

inFront

museum tion presents a chronological timeline of the area, while multilingual interactive screens engage visitors with in-depth commentaries on a variety of topics. Attention, however, naturally drifts towards the centerpiece, a scale model of early 18th century Praga: the detail alone is compelling.

An elevator zips visitors to the next floor, specifically to a dark chamber titled ‘the marketplace’. A celebration of Praga’s enterprising natives, star billing goes to the Flying Carpet, a vertical strip festooned with various trinkets and treasure that were once available for purchase from pavement traders: dodgy hairdryers, dangerous toys and the kind of gold high heels you’d see on a hooker.

These are not relics that Indiana Jones would risk life and limb for, but they’re nonetheless an innocent glimpse at times gone by.

The vaulted basements are more artsy, with various side rooms presenting photographic and video installations: ‘Street’ juxtaposes images of neglect and decay against new wave architecture. ‘Stadium’ dwells on the tale of you-know-what through a series of postcard-sized photos – from Ryszard Siwiec’s politically motivated self-immolation in 1968, right the way up to the arena’s descent into a ‘no-rules’ marketplace and its subsequent rebuilding. There’s even space for a picture of a crooning Stevie Wonder.

Further, ‘Over and Over Again’ prompts visitors to duck down and position themselves within a wraparound photographic collage that shows, “the course of history in a loop where the cataclysms are intertwined with the periods of reconstruction and development.” History has shown that it’s not easy being Warsaw, this display reminds you it’s even tougher being Praga.

Like the rest of the city, this is also an area that’s in the process of reconnecting to its Jewish past. Renovation at this address in the late 90s brought with it the accidental discovery of early 20th century polychromes and friezes in what was once the private prayer house of the Fajgenblat family. After, file through into the courtyard past a life-sized blue bear (whose presence pays homage to the half-mad things kept outside the zoo), before concluding on a viewing platform that looks out onto the patchwork roofs of the Różycki Market: broken tenements and the increasingly desperate market stand steps away from busy cranes and hectic construction work. Like the museum itself, it’s a scene that presents Praga in a nutshell.

Praga Museum ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumpragi.muzeumwarszawy.pl

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

PROFILE BREWMASTER

Hop, Hop Hurray!

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

After years spent waiting in the wings, Warsaw has a craft brewery to call its own. The man behind it, Łukasz Kojro, reveals his story…

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

What’s the Browar Palatum story?

It began nine years ago when my dad and brother gave me a home brewing kit for my birthday. I started exploring different techniques online and soon realized you could achieve better results brewing your own beer than by buying the mass-produced stuff in the shops. The idea of a proper brewery all grew from that.

Considering it cost zł. 200, I think my dad realizes his present was the best investment he ever made – now he gets free beer for life!

Is this your full-time job?

No way. I work as an analyst for an international cosmetics company and really enjoy it. Brewing is just a hobby and I prefer it that way – there’s no pistol to my head or pressure to deliver results. At the same time, my professional background has helped get the brewery off the ground as I’m able to understand the business side better than many of the newer breweries.

What’s in the name?

Finding a good name is harder than you think. There’s so many breweries out there that many of the good names are gone – fully booked!

Among other ideas, I toyed with naming the brewery after my old dog, but eventually settled for Palatum which is a Latin word meaning ‘palate’ or ‘sense of taste’. My wife’s a vet while my own family has a pharmaceutical background, so while we don’t exactly sit around the dinner table speaking Latin, it’s not uncommon for Latin words to crop up. I think the name fits the philosophy and it also works in different languages – it’s not something a foreigner will struggle to say, pronounce or remember.

You mentioned your philosophy – what is it exactly…

I think of my beers as homebrews.

They’re the kind of beers I want to drink at home. I only brew what I like and think that ‘drinkability’ is key.

We’re at a stage of the beer revolution where some people are getting obsessed with exotic, strange beers, but for me the most important thing is for it to simply taste good.

You’re not a fan of this shift towards weird, wacky tastes?

There’s maybe one or two hundred

people in Warsaw that are telling people that’s what they should drink, but their opinion is largely irrelevant to the rest of the market. These people have forgotten about the everyday, standard consumer. I think there needs to be more focus on normal, quality beers. While there needs to be room for exceptions and experiments, I’d like to see a bit of a retreat from all of the ‘crazy stuff’.

People are getting obsessed with exotic, strange beers, but for me the most important thing is for it to simply taste good...

Palatum is Warsaw’s first craft brewery – what took so long for the capital to join the craft brewing industry?

I couldn’t really say. I imagine cost – as a capital city, starting any business in Warsaw is always going to be more expensive. But for all I know, maybe others just haven’t thought about doing so. There must be loads of people with bigger garages or spaces than the one I use, but maybe they’ve just never thought of taking the jump. On top of that, launching a brewery isn’t as easy it sounds.

What problems do you face?

There’s multiple regulations to deal with. When the authorities hear you’re opening a brewery they immediately assume it’ll be a Żywiec-style operation with trucks and lorries arriving 24/7. You’ve got all manner of laws to deal with, and a basic problem that people don’t really know how to treat craft breweries – a craft brewery isn’t the same as a pizzeria, yet many of the same legal standards are applied.

There need to be barriers in place but also a bit more common sense. These aren’t the only considerations: raising capital is hard, and there’s also a shortage of American hops – you don’t really get the chance to sample them beforehand, so you’re usually buying them ‘blind’.

How come you’re not bottling your beers?

At 74 sq/m I’m guessing this is the most compact commercial brewery in Poland – I don’t have space!

But it goes beyond that. Once you start bottling your beers you need to think about logistics, marketing, etc. You create more problems. Most importantly, you lose quality. With bottled beers there’s a bigger risk of oxidization. I don’t have that worry – as things stand, when beer leaves this brewery I know it does so in optimum condition: it makes me proud to know there are times you’ll find it on tap in central Warsaw quite literally within two hours after it has left the tank!

What’s next for Polish craft beer?

This is still a niche industry – I’m positive 99% of Poles have never even tried a craft beer. In this respect, there’s still a huge amount of room for the industry to grow – and I’m sure it will. On a personal level, I’d love to see more Belgian-style beers hit the market. In fact, that’s what I’m going to try brewing next week.

How are your beers best enjoyed…

The Imperial Russian Porter is all about fire in the chimney and a dog by your side. The APA is an evening out with friends: good conversation and losing count of what you’ve drunk. The wheat beer, meanwhile, that’s best saved after a hard day at work stood around a grill in the garden!

Keep up-to-date with Browar Palatum on: fb.com/BrowarPalatum www.warsawinsider.pl

19

HORROR IN THE HISTORIC CENTER

As Halloween approaches, the Insider takes stock of the wicked hauntings that afflict Warsaw’s historic center…

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

Pałac Paca

(ul. Miodowa 15)

Best recognized for an elaborate gateway modelled on the Roman Pantheon, the Paca has a dark secret. Marcin Radziwiłł lived here from his birth in 1705 up until 1756.

From a young age the aristocrat showed signs of mental imbalance often running shrieking through the corridors at night. His condition worsened with age leading to increasingly erratic, cruel and bizarre behavior. He is said to have indulged in the zealous study of ancient Hebrew script, terrorized his wife, kept his own children locked from the outside world, and assembled a harem of young girls who had quite possibly been kidnapped from the streets. As if that weren’t enough, some of the more farfetched accounts of his life assert that when he wasn’t immersed in his search for the Philosopher’s Stone, he would venture out from his compound to set fire to neighboring buildings. Nowadays this rather nasty character can still be found darting around outside, trembling and seeking out shelter from the shadows.

Mansjonaria

(ul. Świętojańska 2)

Sitting on the corner of Pl. Zamkowy and ul. Świętojańska, spirits are said to swirl around the Mansjonaria tenement. Originally functioning as a college and boarding house for young priests, it later became the home of Duke Stanisław, a hard drinking, womanizing playboy. He died suddenly on August 8th, 1524, with his untimely demise sparking one of the great whodunits of monarchial Poland.

Suspected of poisoning him, two cooks were tortured and executed for their perceived role. But the plot thickened when, two years later, Stanisław’s brother also passed away. Several theories have been floated: some claim the pair were simply victims of their own licentious lifestyles.

Others point to something rather more fishy and allege that the brothers were bumped off as part of a royal power struggle. A noblewoman called Katarzyna Radziejowska became the prime suspect, and while she was never indicted two women thought to be acting on her behest were burned at the stake after a thorough interrogation. Mansjonaria has been haunted ever since, with people reporting hearing old Polish dialect spoken, mysterious footsteps and odd rustling noises. Others have written of poltergeiststyle phenomena such as banging windows and moving furniture. Not even the original building’s destruction in WWII has put an end to these unexplainable events.

Presidential Palace

(Krakowskie Przedmieście 48/50)

Most simply call it the Presidential Palace. Others know it as Pałac Koniecpolskich, Pałac Lubomirskich, Pałac Radziwiłłów, or Pałac Namiestnikowski. Whichever you choose to settle on, anecdotal evidence suggests this property has more ghosts than it has names. Built, in the finest traditions of Stephen King, on the site of an ancient cemetery, an assortment of ghouls and ghosts have been spotted lurking the corridors of power, including SS General Franz Kutschera, and that of Prince Radziwiłł himself. At night, he’s said to often be found gazing out of one of the windows that faces Krakowskie Przedmieście.

Another member of the Radziwiłł dynasty is also meant to stalk the building, sometimes hanging out with the figure of a beheaded man that only appears at night. The latter is something of a luckless individual. Prone to accidents due to his headless condition, he copped the blame for a minor fire after supposedly bumping into a lantern and setting some curtains on fire.

Pałac Staszica (ul. Nowy Świat 72)

Like many old stories, finding a consistent version of this one is even harder than presenting proof that ghosts actually exist. The most commonly regaled version agrees that prior to this Palace a small church stood on the plot. In 1818 a young priest killed himself at the altar, either with a shot to the head or by imbibing poison. The news shocked Warsaw to the core, and prompted Grand Duke Konstantin, the ruthless Russian ruler of the city, to have the church closed and razed to the ground. The site was purchased

by Stanisław Staszic who ordered a palace be built on the ruins. From the moment it was completed in 1823 it’s been said that the spirit of the desperate priest can be felt.

Visually, however, he’s proved more elusive. Said to appear on each anniversary of his death, the quite considerable problem that ghost hunters face is that no-one knows when that is. Now the seat of the Polish Academy of Sciences, why don’t you take a look yourself.

Old Town (ul. Zapiecek)

In recent years, the name Zapiecek has been hijacked by a Polish restaurant chain specializing in dumplings. But those familiar with Old Town will also know that this is the name of one of the smallest streets in the area. Slotted between Piwna and Świętojańska, back in medieval times this was the throbbing heart of Warsaw’s nightlife, an alleyway tightly crowded with bawdy taverns filled with ruffians and opportunists. Arguments would spill outside, often culminating in brutal fights and sneaky stabbings. How many heads may have rolled on this street is hard to quantify, but roll they did. According to Warsaw lore, every now and again an unlucky passer-by will be seized by terror and sight a malignant apparition bursting from the shadows.

Who is this spectral figure? Thought to relate to Zapiecek’s unsavory past, the phantom is said to be so disquieting that people go blank with horror and are completely unable to identify what they saw…

Pałac Przebendowski (Al. Solidarności 62)

If the Insider was to give out a prize for its ‘Ghost of the Millennium’ then the Przebendowski Palace would win it each time. Now the home of the musty Independence Museum, the building has had quite a story. Over different eras it has in turn functioned as the Hotel de Hamburg, a waxworks display, and a Bavarian brew house that hosted a medley of exotic conjurers and illusionists. Possibly connected to one of these roles, the ghost of a fat Chinaman that ‘squints like a cat’ and smokes opium has been sighted two or three times over the last few hundred years. www.warsawinsider.pl

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TRICK OR TREAT

Meet The Monsters

Tapping into your worst nightmares, Warsaw’s Horror House leaves thrillseekers in a spin…

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There is, I’ve read, a ‘science of fear’. “When our bodies are primed

for danger,” explains Rachel Feltman in an article for the Washington Post, “we achieve a weird kind of high.” I guess this goes some way to clarifying why I’ve become addicted to that rush of facing the unknown. Over the years I’ve poked about ‘the Polish Amityville’ down in Kraków with the nation’s top demonologist, explored haunted Nazi tunnels, been on lantern-lit tours of the country’s creepy castles and seen a ghostly face in an abandoned asylum. To differing degrees, each have been terrifying and the buzz has been immense. Horror House, in comparison, sounded tame. Marketed

as an ‘interactive museum of fear’, the premise is simple: get people into a dark basement and then frighten them to pieces. Being frank, I doubted their ability to do that.

I first realize I might be wrong whilst waiting outside. Passing time over a cigarette, I hear a scream ringing out from within – not the kind of hammed up squeal you hear in the slasher flicks, but something altogether more genuine. It’s a bloodcurdling noise that freezes the blood. Fear can’t be faked. This is the real thing. After a few minutes, the entrance opens and out spill Horror House’s latest victims.

They’re laughing maniacally in a delirious state. In between cackling one

turns to my girlfriend: “It’s not too late to turn back.”

The reception area is small and compressed. We are handed rules (no drink, no drugs, no cameras, etc.) before signing a disclaimer that we’re willing participants that shan’t drop dead. As the organizers run through their spiel, my eyes linger on a bloodied wall that challenges, “Do you wanna’ play a game…”

Promises are promises. For this reason I can’t say much more about what happens next. What I will say is that, yes, it does live up to the hype. Just imagine, for a moment, the scariest films you’ve ever watched. Now imagine not watching those films, but being

in them. That’s Horror House. Disturbing and disorientating, it’s a high adrenaline experience that makes the hair stand on end. When the nightmare finally ends, it leaves you sweating, spinning and even actually shaking.

Getting home, you double check the doors and look under the bed – surely, there’s nothing actually under there?

Horror House I (currently closed for renovation) ul. Wąski Dunaj 12/18, horrorhouse.pl Horror House II ul. Nowy Świat 52, horrorhouse.pl, admission zł. 25 (advance bookings mandatory)

Just imagine, for a moment, the scariest films you’ve ever watched. Now imagine not watching those films, but being in them... www.warsawinsider.pl

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ARCHITECTURE NEO GOTHIC PRAGA

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It’s So Goth!

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

The Gothic revival that swept Europe in the 19th and early 20th century did not exclude Poland. In Warsaw, the Praga area became especially known for examples of this faux medieval style. Today several of these architectural nuggets survive, with the district’s brooding atmosphere and gloomy streets matched well against this sinister look‌

www.warsawinsider.pl

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ARCHITECTURE NEO GOTHIC PRAGA

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CATHEDRAL OF ST. FLORIAN & ST. MICHAEL (PREVIOUS SPREAD) ul. Floriańska 3

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PRASKI HOSPITAL Al. Solidarności 67 (TOP LEFT)

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KONESER VODKA FACTORY (BOTTOM LEFT) ul. Ząbkowska 27/31

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UNDER THE OWLS ul. Okrzei 26 (NOT SHOWN)

Most people, quite literally, view this cathedral as Praga’s spiritual gateway. Visible from across the river, it’s practically the first thing you’ll see disembarking from the tram coming from the other side of Warsaw. Built between 1888 and 1901, construction of this Catholic bastion was seen as a retaliation to the ongoing Russification of Warsaw and, in particular, the completion of the onion domed Orthodox church nearby. Built to hold 10,000, the cathedral sparked a wave of imitations across Poland. Distinguished for its spindly 75-meter towers, it was dynamited two days before the Germans withdrew from Praga and rebuilt from scratch between 1947 and 1970.

Completed in 1936 (though the paving outside claims 1935), the otherwise plain-looking crescent-shaped Praski Hospital was lent some architectural oomph by five pointy Neo Gothic archways designed to complement the looming style of the cathedral across the square. Targeted during the Luftwaffe’s 1939 assault on the capital, it escaped with minor scratches. Its luck held five years later. Earmarked for destruction as the Germans fled the oncoming Red Army, it survived only because more explosives were needed to obliterate the cathedral. A plaque commemorates writer Władysław Remont: he was treated in 1900 in the hospital that previously stood on this site following a local train disaster.

A spooky red brick gateway marks the entrance to Koneser, a complex purpose built by the occupying Russians to keep the 120,000 Tsarist troops based in Warsaw supplied with their daily vodka ration. With the German army approaching the city in 1915, the decision was taken to pour ten million liters of alcohol into the streets, a move that left the locals intoxicated from the fumes – a few jokers claim that many natives still are. Vodka production finally ceased at the start of the millennium, though today work is underway to transform the plot into a posh retail, residential and office development. Naturally, a vodka museum is also in the pipeline.

When the celebrated engineer Witold Massalski accepted the keys for this property in 1912 it was widely regarded as the district’s most beautiful building. The exterior included reliefs depicting bats, dragons and griffins, as well as a soaring turret and a pair of stone owls crowning the tenement. After years of post-war neglect, the building is now the subject of a refit that will transform it into luxury apartments. Currently cloaked by scaffolding and covers, for the time being appreciating this pearl of Praga requires a vivid imagination.

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The decision was taken to pour ten million liters of alcohol into the streets, a move that left the locals intoxicated from the fumes

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KA ŃS LE WI

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DOM PRACA MAŃKOWSKICH ul. Wileńska 69 (ABOVE)

Founded in 1901 by the philanthropists Jadwiga and Waclaw Mańkowskich, this rambling, old survivor of a building served as a home for underprivileged boys – often orphans or the sons of war invalids. Caring for the 300 boys aged from 7-years of age to 14, the idea was to teach them the kids basics of Polish as well as a trade such as carpentry or cobbling, whilst also instilling in them ‘the desire to work and the observance of moral principles’.

During the German occupation it became a place for conspiratorial gatherings as well as a secret Home Army storehouse.

A SK OW BK Ą Z

1 2

L ZE OR

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TAR GO WA

W isł a

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INTERVIEW CHEF

Devil

IN THE KITCHEN

Chef Michał Bryś has long been lauded for his work at L’enfant Terrible, now he’s terrorizing your screens as the taskmaster on the Polish version of Hell’s Kitchen...

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Every customer at L’enfant Terrible ends up commenting about how nice you are! All this shouting and screaming is a bit of a shock…

As a chef I inhabit two different worlds: there’s the kitchen, where the dark side of the moon shines, and then the world outside. Like all chefs, when I’m in the kitchen I’m a completely different person to the one outside it. If you see something going wrong or an idea of yours being badly executed you’re going to get upset and yell – that’s natural.

What drives you nuts at work?

I can’t stand it when chefs look for shortcuts or try to take the easy way out. If I see laziness or someone who doesn’t believe in the final goal then I switch into Mr. Nasty. A successful kitchen relies on team work, you need everyone pulling in the same direction. In this respect, it’s a bit like the army. You have to work like a unit. The only individual is the head chef, the others have to play together.

What about customers? Anything you want to see banned from the dining room?

Silly trends drive me mad. I’ve got no problem if someone has a genuine medical intolerance to gluten, but I hate it when people ask for gluten or lactose free food just because they perceive doing so as being ‘fashionable’. People like that are stupid.

Have you ever worked in a real Hell’s Kitchen?

The two-star Ledbury in London was my personal hell.

The chef there, Brett Graham, has massive talent, energy and an immense skill set, but he really knows how to push his staff. There were about 20 of us working 18 to 20-hour shifts in a space of not much more than 30 sq/m. I discovered muscles I never knew even existed! Throughout the day we’d work in boiling heat under real pressure to maintain top quality standards. That was the first kitchen I ever worked in, but I’m very, very happy I went through all that. It was my boot camp and I survived it. It wasn’t just tough physically, but psychologically as well. When you get through something like that you have the confidence to work anywhere.

You were 40 when you started at The Ledbury, a real latecomer to the profession…

Cooking has always been in the genes mind. In pre-war times my great grandfather owned a big restaurant outside Katowice, while some of my happiest memories from childhood are sitting in my grandmother’s kitchen. She was a fantastic cook who, without ever actually knowing it, had mastered a lot of classic French techniques. I fell in love with the aromas of her kitchen and the senses it played with. My taste buds were born there. But yes, while I’ve always wanted to be a chef, I only took the jump much later in my life. I wrote letters to the 50 best restaurants in the world, attached pictures of my food, and explained why I really wanted to work in their kitchens. Over the next few years I used all of my savings to work for free in three different countries. Everything, from hotels and flights, came straight from my own pocket.

Has the fact you entered professional cooking so late helped or hindered your career?

In many ways it’s actually really helped. Previously I

If I see laziness or someone who doesn’t believe in the final goal then I switch into Mr. Nasty...

worked as a producer, so balancing budgets and schedules is in the blood. Later, I was a director, which helped me look at things from a more artistic point of view. Both those jobs have helped me grow as a chef.

What’s the best advice you can give to aspiring chefs on Hell’s Kitchen?

Listen to your elders and never give up. Believe in your end goal. The physical pain is neither here nor there, making it as a chef is all about having the mental strength to succeed.

Bearing in mind the pressures of the kitchen, do you have a personal life?

Yes! I always look to balance work and personal life. I live in the countryside, in a small village next to a forest and a river. I go horse riding there, Texan-style, and also practice Krav Maga. These are things that keep me in good condition mentally and physically.

Are your neighbors aware they live next to the devil?

I think a couple of them know what I do and realize I’m on TV, but the rest either don’t care or don’t even know.

It’s a small village of 200 people: to the locals I’m another normal guy. I’m just Michał to them.

Hell’s Kitchen starts off with you banging the drums: you’re a rock’n’roll chef!

I hate the concept of traditional fine dining – the white cloths and all that. I listen to Johnny Cash and Iron Maiden in the car on the way to work, and that’s the kind of thing you’ll find playing in my restaurant. As for the drumming in the opening sequence, that was my idea. When I was 12 or 13 I used to play in a thrash metal band called Haron and getting back on the drums for Hell’s Kitchen has got me thinking about buying a drum kit. I can practice after work in the basement!

Finally, Halloween is upon us! Ever seen a ghost?

Never, but I definitely believe there might be something out there!

Hell’s Kitchen airs each Tuesday at 9 p.m. on Polsat. At other times, catch Michał in action at L’enfant Terrible restaurant: ul. Sandomierska 13, eterrible.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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Tales of the EAST END The Insider heads to the easterly hinterlands of Kiermusy

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

E

scaping from Kiermusy isn’t impossible, but it’s certainly quite tricky. The problem isn’t so much the grunting animals that occasionally incur onto the narrow road out, the problem, I’ve found, is myself. I don’t want to leave. Why would anyone? This is, after all, the kind of place that changes your perception of time. You view it differently. After a while, time grows to become a desperate jumble of meaningless numbers.

Rugged forest on one side, rolling green meadows on the other, Kiermusy leaves GPS systems paralyzed with panic – even calling it a hamlet would be an ambitious fancy. Cast out in the backwaters of Eastern Poland, it has all the hallmarks of a classic rural break: big blue skies and the sense of total isolation. Of course, we are not completely alone: staff lurk inside the dark halls of the Rzym, the sturdy timber tavern in which check-in is conducted. Although the finer details are lost amid all the fur pelts and muskets, instinct suggests an atmospheric haunt where good things tend to happen. Later, we’ll learn that this suspicion is correct.

TRAVEL KIERMUSY

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In the meantime, though, spirits peak as we make our way to the separate ivy-clad lodge that will serve as our home. The living room is all squeaks and shadows and chiming antiques, while our quarters upstairs have solid big beds and a vintage style: I’ve been here ten minutes and I love it already. A little surprisingly though, we’ve been told there is much to explore. Resisting the urge for a beer on the veranda, we embark on a tour. First, north, where a gentle trail leads us down an ‘Avenue of Oaks’ planted by eminent Poles. Eventually, the path opens out to face a thatched cabin perched by a lake. As if on cue, the door swings open and out of it exits a member of staff in country maid garb. This is Maja, and she explains that what we’re looking at is ‘the House of Rasputin’. We’re allowed to peer inside and find a voluptuous hut hung with tapestries and pics of erotic nudes and Tsarist aristocracy. In the corner, a portrait of The Mad Monk himself: his gaze is intense and seems to pursue all our moves. As a bedroom it’s unique, unsettling and utterly crazy. Frankly, I wouldn’t stay there alone.

Happy to escort us around the rest of the complex, Maja shows us a barn, since repurposed as a glimmery pool, as well as the gorzelnia, a cobwebbed cellar that acts as a ladsonly bonding cave. Strewn with splintered furnishings and dusty drinking paraphernalia, its purpose is simple: “men turn up with a crate of vodka,” smiles Maja, “and then stay locked down here until it’s all finished.” Hotels of Warsaw, take heed and follow.

Back outdoors, we turn back on ourselves and head past a row of brightly painted cottages and towards Kiermusy’s bison reserve, a generous enclosure with a viewing platform that totters and trembles as we inch our way up. It doesn’t take long before creatures have congregated below us, munching, gurgling and doing other bison-like things.

With the last of the September sunlight streaming through the trees, it’s a scene to soak up and savor. I want to bottle this feeling and store it forever.

With dusk creeping in we return to the Rzym where we’re immediately informed that there’s been an unforeseen crisis. “The chef,” apologizes Maja, “went out picking mushrooms and hasn’t come back.” Hungry as I am, I like the sound of this – if it means fresh forest ingredients then I’m happy to wait. Bingo, it does, and when the food finally arrives we dig through heaps of local produce piled on wooden plates. I have never eaten this well in the back of beyond.

The food suits the moment as does mulled wine. We sink back jug after jug, before heading yonder into the night through the alley of oaks. In front, light mist, above, a sky deeply flecked by a gauze of stars. The silence is immaculate – so much so, I start talking to myself to check I haven’t gone deaf. But then, a loud splash and an ungodly howl.

The photographer, who has been hanging back to babble to himself, has stumbled into a marsh. Staggering out, he then falls into an electrified fence: the scream echoes around the universe. Plodding back to the Rzym we find that the doors are locked and the lights are out. It’s an inglorious end to a wonderful day.

We recover our optimism in the morning. Under a baking sun we walk to the furthest end of Kiermusy. It’s here that a red and white barrier marks the ancient border between the Kingdom of Poland and the Grand Duchy of Lithuania. A stone’s throw away: a rebuilt fortress, its

www.warsawinsider.pl

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courtyard filled with medieval torture devices and grisly captions that are graphic in their description. Then, inside this bastion, three floors packed with sabers, swords and suits of armor. It’s like being a ten-year-old boy again and I enjoy every minute.

Out of curiosity, we break up the hike back with a stop at Stanica Rzeczna Łabędzie. This is the ‘other’ pension in Kiermusy, and despite being in competition with where we’re staying the relationship between both is cordial and friendly. Not that you’d expect anything less – the owner of Stanica, Jacek, embodies the spirit of Polish hospitality: a man of modesty and manners, he invites us inside for a whistle stop tour. Furnished with nick knacks from Kiermusy’s monthly antiques fair, his chalet is a smaller project but with a more upscale style.

Seemingly built with sunsets in mind, the calling card is a lakefront deck where everyone gathers. Today that means a pack of romping animals and George, an 82-year-old Pole who could pass for 50: gold hair, gold chain, gold tan – everything about him glows gold. That goes for his personality, as well. Having fled the country with his family after the Warsaw Uprising (“I still remember all the bodies in the street”), life’s twisting path has led him to live in France, Canada and then the States. Visiting Poland to retrace the places of his youth, he weaves beautiful stories full of poignant reflection: over coffee, he tells us how his childhood home in Mokotów was destroyed but, miraculously, the

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tree outside stills stands unscathed. “When I returned last week,” he confides, “I picked some apples from it. They were rubbish, but…” His voice trails off. In the distance, a tractor chugs by. Life carries on. Jacek pours another coffee and the conversation resumes on a far lighter note. In truth, I don’t want it to end. I don’t want any of this to end.

NEED TO KNOW

Getting there: Kiermusy lies 2 hours 30 minutes North East from Warsaw. Some do it in two. Or, do what the Insider did and take the train from Warsaw to Białystok.

The journey takes 2 hours 20 minutes: first class is zł.

62 and second zł. 30. From there, a taxi comes to about zł. 175. It’s worth every złoty.

Dworek Nad Łąkami kiermusy.com.pl (rooms from zł. 140) Stanica Rzeczna Łabędzie stanica-kiermusy.pl (rooms from zł. 200)

REVIEWS

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA

RESTAURANTS 47 CAFES & WINE BARS 80 NIGHTLIFE 84 SHOPPING 89 FAMILY 98 HEALTH & BEAUTY 103 IN THE CITY 106

TRICK OR TREAT

Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD (ul. Oleandrów 8) to elevate this humble snack to new levels with a glam Hollywood makeover. Inspired by what they saw on their travels in America, it sometimes feels that co-owners Kamila and Patrycja have reimagined the universe with their tasty take on this sugary vice. And now, with Halloween counting down, check out their forthcoming line of spooky specials… www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

A pleasure cruise through more than just seafood…

oday I am sitting on a boat with a good glass of red.

A gorgeous woman is fussing over me and my lunch has just arrived. Life isn’t just great, it’s perfect. It’s not often I feel like Jack Nicholson, but this is such a time.

Strangely, I haven’t absconded to Cannes or the Caribbean, all I’ve had to do was take a cab down to Krucza. So what about the boat? That’s the statement piece inside Zmiana Klimatu.

Under normal circumstances, anyone bonkers enough to stick a boat inside a restaurant would be marched outside and shot against a wall. Here though, it actually seems to work. True, sitting in it is awkward and impractical, but the upshot is an interior area that feels like no other. Restaurants, in their official propaganda, are keen to declare that theirs is a place that will transport you to different climes – here’s one that actually does. Perched underneath jagged ceiling panels of deep ocean blue, the sensation is of being anywhere but Warsaw. The escapism is palpable and welcome.

There is more to Zmiana Klimatu than design stunts

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and gimmicks. Granted, it hasn’t all been plain sailing, and a couple of false starts prompted wholesale changes over summer and the subsequent debut of an entirely new team. But together, they’ve created something that’s every bit as dazzling as the extraordinary interior. Starters are an aggressive assertion of the chef ’s quality. The deer tartare, served in a bone-shaped ceramic, is meticulously constructed and accompanied by shavings of truffle. A coil of octopus, cooked in red wine, is ringed by chanterelles and marinated turnip: a pool of vivid blue coconut water is a finishing touch that lends visual vigor. However, it is the lemon soup that is the victor in all this. Poured carefully over a dust of crayfish, it’s a thick, throbbing broth that’s intense but not overly sharp. Forget the ‘women and children first’ seafaring maxim, no-one is getting a taste of this apart from me.

Mains mean a heap of seafood on ribbons of black tagliatelle. From squid and octopus to mussels and shrimps, all the usual suspects are present and correct. Delivered

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

t

Don’t Miss The Boat

daily from Spain, these are creatures cooked with talent and precision. Likewise, two slithers of seabass layered onto a creamy black risotto are a ravishing success that thrill with their texture and flavor. Everything thus far has been exquisitely plated and astonishing in taste, but another magic door is about to be unlocked...

There are many symptoms of madness, and requesting a steak in a seafood restaurant is certainly among them. But do. Whatever else you might order, ensure you have the steak. Served under a glass dome billowing with Cherrywood smoke, it’s a stunning example of how to cook meat. The price, a modest zł. 59, seems a gross miscalculation of staggering proportions. There is plenty of good steak now in Warsaw, but this kind of cost is a throwback to the ages. It is unfair, mind you, that this should be the talking point: this is a flawlessly cooked animal that should be remembered for more than just the price on its head.

After these triumphs, I can’t help but suspect dessert misses

a beat. Unhappy with the ancillary granita, the chef chooses against serving the panna cotta so instead I’m awarded a fondant with pink wine jelly and pistachio ice cream. It’s an excellent combo of gooey chocolate luxury, but Warsaw’s enduring fetish for fondant has grown a bit tired. On a menu brimming with bright ideas, it feels that the restaurant needs to push up another step on the subject of desserts. This, I’m confident, will happen, for there is a brilliance to this kitchen: a verve and capability that’s exciting to see. The chef, Jarosław Voitiuk, trained as a vet in his native Ukraine, before a twist of fate led him to the kitchens of Warsaw to work washing dishes.

His ensuing rise up the ladder has been a fairytale – not so much to him as it has been to those he feeds. If the city needs a new culinary hero, then that hero has arrived. (AW) Zmiana Klimatu

ul. Krucza 16/22, zmianaklimatu.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

i

Russian Roulette The last chance saloon

t is the conundrum that, eventually, all reviewers must face: how to handle a place that you enjoy but whose failings are such that they become impossible to ignore? In Skamiejka’s case, the elephant in the room is the food – it’s a massacre. Take the zharkoe: what should be a thick and hefty pot roast is limp and placid and empty of taste. It is a measure of desperation that the nose-clearing house mustard finds itself called into action in a bid to give this watery mess a bit of substance and lift. The photographer has even less luck. As a frequent visitor to Tbilisi, and the Insider’s self-appointed King of Chinkali, no-one else I know is in a better position to cast judgement on this classic Georgian dumpling. Too thick and rubbery is his damning verdict.

Writing these words hurts, for a lot of love has been invested in Skamiejka.

Somehow, that love has averted the kitchen. “Perhaps,” we speculate, “the chef isn’t working.” This is the hope, for this family business has charm in abundance. As a social point, it works incredibly well. Located at the far end of Ząbkowska, it’s a place filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces: album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds. The welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. It’s easy to have fun here and many people do. If only as much attention was lavished on the food as it is on everything else…

Skamiejka ul. Ząbkowska 37, fb.com/Skamiejka

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Celebrating their fifth edition, the Warsaw Beer Festival will once again take place in the hallowed confines of Legia’s stadium. Drawing all from beer nerds to pissheads to curious first-timers, this well executed event will present the cream of the Polish brewing industry alongside international guests such as Brewdog and Belhaven. An armada of food trucks have been booked to keep the swaying masses fed, and a range of supplementary events such as tastings and seminars are also in the pipeline. As per last time, oneday tickets cost zł. 10 and can be bought on the day. True enthusiasts, however, will look to buy a three-day pass for zł. 20 (available only in advance). Premium tickets (zł. 120, and also only available in pre-sale) come with added goodies such as t-shirts and glasses.

When: October 13-15th Where: Legia Stadium (ul. Łazienkowska 3) Info: warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA, EXCEPT BEER FESTIVAL COURTESY

Warsaw Beer Festival

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Into The Dark

No Comment excel in their role as an insider secret…

arsaw has seen a growth in unique places or, at least, places that claim that they are. Too often they disappoint. Not on account of their overall quality, just the fact that, actually, they aren’t unique in the slightest – for instance, what’s special about dining on the ground floor of a business tower? Boring! There are though convention breakers out there, and No Comment are just that. Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, just climbing up the echoey stairs builds a feeling of anticipation.

That ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself particularly well in their weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, you can imagine glittery local celebs getting up to some rather naughty things. Yet there is more to No Comment than promiscuous high living. Connected via an outdoor concrete footbridge, the club part faces another enigmatic door, one that opens out into a moody restaurant sheathed in blue velvet. With the last of the September sunshine sloping through the slit windows of the tower, the contrast between light and shadow is heavy and pronounced.

I don’t feel like I’m in a restaurant, I feel like I’m in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch.

Seating is small and tight, set around glass-topped tables that favor form over function. But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all about

intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. The menu – printed out onto a sheet of paper – doesn’t exactly promise greatness yet that’s what it delivers.

Tartar is fresh and how it should be, while the boudin noir blood sausage is served on a tower of apple puree with a side of creamy mashed potatoes. There is little pretense to this dish, but plenty of the earthy authenticity you’d find in a Parisian bistro. Reading the plate like others would read a palm, you’d say the chef was a man of passion and integrity: there are no tricks, but plenty to suggest knowledge and wisdom. The same is true of a risotto that’s all cream and ooze and jumbo gambas shrimps. It’s spectacular. “I think,” says my date, “this is the best risotto I’ve eaten for years.” Me, I’m moved to agree.

No Comment doesn’t look or act like a traditional restaurant. It feels more like a member’s club, the kind of secret place you’d visit to hire a hitman or start an affair. Despite this slightly so surreal atmosphere, a restaurant is what it is. A rather good one at that. (AW) No Comment Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, tel. 603 519 319, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS Killing The Craft

Applied as if it were some stamp of quality, ‘craft’ has become just about the most overused and overrated word in the foodie’s dictionary. Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never really justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. But if their pizza never goes beyond ordinary, that’s done nothing to keep trade from being brisk. Inside interiors filled with aged, raw materials, find a new generation of diners making the most of the low, low prices to pop back fruity cocktails amid cluttered, busy tables.

Sexy Duck

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Pl. Konstytucji 3

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w

Octopus’s Garden

October means octopus at Taverna Patris…

here Warsaw is concerned, no food has spread its tentacles in recent months as much as octopus. While once it was a relative rarity in Warsaw’s restaurants, today its commonplace, usually given big billing on the menu and plenty of promotion on Facebook. Despite its burgeoning profile, it remains an enigmatic entity: partly that’s down to its mystical reputation as a creature of the deep, but mainly it’s because it remains notoriously hard to master when it comes to actually cooking.

Tenderizing it is tricky, and there’s a number of venues that get this step wrong. Then there’s Taverna Patris.

Founded in 2009, for the last seven years October has meant Octopus Month in this homely Greek haunt. Presenting eight variations thereof, chef Rafał has made magic from this monster: as a light starter, a seafood salad comes with celery, carrot and several things that once swam. Octopus, of course, is in there, and is a delicious precursor to what comes next. There’s marinated octopus with beetroot, a smart combination of subtle

zip and zing. Octopus with fennel and cream sauce is a deeper, richer dish, though the Insider’s crown goes to an octopus cooked in white wine and served with honey sauce. Soft, chewy and full of flavor, these are tastes that bring to mind summer island hopping around the coast of Greece.

I’m told Patris has staunch customers who see nothing odd in visiting eight times over the course of October so as to sample all the dishes. You understand why. This food is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. For that, the efforts of Patris are admired by many. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Taverna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy.

Taverna Patris ul Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tavernapatris.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Keep With Tradition

Restaurant Kmicic would love to use this space to remind you about their traditional Polish dumplings, wild boar pate, goose, deer and duck. With the temperatures dropping, finish your Old Town stroll by warming up over a chicken soup and a glass of mulled beer or wine.

Kmicic ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl

Now Open!

Specializing in aesthetic medicine, dietetics, cosmetology and laser therapy, Dr. Beata Dethloff is pleased to announce the opening of her new spa / clinic down in Konstancin. Promising luxury surrounds and state-ofthe-art treatments, this looks to be the ultimate spoiler.

Dr. Beata Dethloff Al. Wojska Polskiego 3 (Stara Papiernia), drbeatadethloff.pl

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

Hot Launch

Hennessy Polska are delighted to announce the Polish debut of the latest outing by Hennessy Very Special Limited Edition.

Featuring a bottle design by celebrity tattoo artist Scott Campbell, this classy collector’s item is the sixth in an ongoing collaboration between Hennessy and assorted globally recognized artists.

For details, see: fb.com/ HennessyPolska

Birthday Boy

Congratulations go out to Focaccia Ristorante who celebrated their second birthday at the tail end of September.

As part of the festivities, the evening featured the grand unveiling of their new Aperitivo Bar: we’ll be bringing you a full review of just that in the very near future.

Focaccia Ristorante ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

Autumn Tastes

With a changing menu synchronized to suit the season, Bazar Kocha are pleased to announce the entry of several new dishes featuring mushrooms, rowan berries, smoked bacon, pumpkin, pine shoot, pickles and rye.

“And don’t forget,” add the management, “that we serve only the best Polish beef!”

Adapted to suit the golden Polish autumn, even the wine list has been expanded to match the new tastes.

Bazar Kocha ul. Mokotowska 33/35, bazarkocha.pl

NEWSFLASH! If you’ve visited the Spire then there’s no chance you’ve missed the strange, white space shape that’s being built outside. Designed by Mac Stopa, it’s been announced that the structure will house Genesis restaurant – a side project from the Michelin starred Senses. The grand opening has been slated for early next year.

Store or Move?

Moving in or out? Renovating your apartment or office?

In need of more space?

Więcej Miejsca (“More Space”) is here to help you with their convenient pick-up and delivery, storage and moving services. Get sturdy plastic bins for your belongings, store larger items, receive help during local or international removal and expect full support during these important life situations.

Więcej Miejsca wiecejmiejsca.pl/en

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Wilanów

neighborhood THINGS TO DO

With autumn in full motion, Wilanów turns a funny shade of pumpkin orange: nowhere more so than Farma Dyn to the south in Powsin…

PUMPKIN HEADS

Sat out in the Powsin section of lower Wilanów, Farma Dyn is a full-on, family oriented pumpkin extravaganza!

More than just a place to pick out the perfect pumpkin for Halloween, features include a mini zoo filled with cute, cuddly animals, a ‘musical maze’, sausage grill and special workshops for groups.

Open from October 15th to October 31st (9 a.m. to 5 p.m) find it on ul. Przyczółkowa 2k, approximately 400 meters from the Shell gas station. For further info, see: farmadyn.pl

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

neighborhood / wilanów eat & drink Basico ul. Branickiego 11, basico.pl Airy and spacious the mood is light and modern, the food, meanwhile, isn’t over-complicated. It’s simple, fresh and truthful to Italian standards.

Bay Kebab Al. Rzeczypospolitej 12, baykebab.com Even your dapper Wilanowian enjoys a kebab: teething problems aside (mixed orders and general chaos), Bay is a notch above most inner city gambles.

Bel Paese ul. Sarmacka 22, belpaese.pl Looking around the tables and you’ll see most customers diving into pizzas: but that overlooks the fact that the pastas in this highly casual neighborhood haunt are both interesting and quite often on-point.

Deli Paris ul. Kazachska 1, deliparis.pl Pre-empting Warsaw’s surge towards artisan bakeries, Deli Paris have been at it since 2011. Aside from baked goods, the menu places crepes on a pedestal.

Gorący Pies Al. Rzeczypospolitej 10 Artisan burgers, creative hot dogs and local ingredients: this is street food with an upmarket Wilanów twist – you’ll hear no complaints from us. The house specialty shares the restaurant’s name, and involves a hot dog featuring lamb sausage and onion jam.

Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1, kuchniaotwarta.pl A restaurant with serious ambitions to be the best in

the area: a beautiful layout that’s modern and open is complemented by a varied menu by Michał Molenda with something for all ages and tastes.

Kuźnia Kulturalna ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, kuzniakulturalna. pl With its massive play area (there’s even a beach in the summer!), well-stocked bar, and diverse menu this former blacksmith’s is something of a catch-all solution. It’s position close to the palace draws in as many tourists as it does locals.

Milanovo ul. S.K. Potockiego 24, milanovo.pl A relaxed white-clad spot a hop away from all the sights. The menu is pretty vast, though most skip straight to the pizza.

Naturel ul. Klimczaka 1, naturel7.pl Overseen by Marcin Jabłoński, one of the rising stars of Polish gastronomy, the menu is a celebratory

Bierhalle ul. Klimczaka 1, bierhalle.pl The latest Bierhalle venture is the shining pearl of this long-established empire. The beer is freshly brewed on-site and served with food befitting of the beer hall aesthetic.

Bistecca Bistro ul. Branickiego 11, bistecca.pl Opened over four years back, Bistecca is something of a pioneer when it comes to quality beef.

Outsiders travel from outside Wilanów’s immediate catchment area to sample meat dishes that include their signature one kilo T-Bone shaped joint: it’s a strip steak on one side and a tenderloin on the other. Chef Paweł Gajownik personally oversees the aging process.

BEST MEX FOOD & COCKTAILS Live Music•Events•Delivery Service•Open Late Wilanów, Klimczaka 1, phone 728 456 883, yeye.waw.pl

The Beer Store Al. Rzeczypospolitej 14 In an area where bar options are thin on the ground, The Beer Store is a veritable lifeline. Cult international beers and Polish craft ales served to a very grateful audience.

Czerwona Krowa Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18 Presenting the new face of butchery, Czerwona Krowa is just about the most attractive store you’ll find selling meat. Beyond the token aesthetics, this is a place that’s deadly serious about their meat: sourcing their produce from selected farmsteads, find numerous specialty cuts as well as their own seasoned beef.

Al. Wilanowska 67e/ D1/3 tel. 602 720 077 www.agijensen.com

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neighborhood / wilanów observance of natural local produce.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY Artis Wellness Club

Saffron Spices ul. Klimczaka 20, saffronspices.pl Much appreciated by Wilanów’s British population, Saffron Spices is a reliable choice for the standard curries. Nothing complex here, but they do the basics well enough.

Sucre ul. Klimczaka 5, sucre.pl Purveyors of Warsaw’s best natural ice cream, Sucre is worth visiting in all temperatures on account of their Parisian-style macarons.

Sushi Zume ul. Klimczaka 5, sushizume.eu Apparently this was the first restaurant to take root in Miasteczko Wilanów. Still going strong, that they’ve outlasted many of their competitors speaks volumes. Basic interior, simple menu but solidly reliable standards.

Vilano ul. Kazachska 1, vilano.pl Find the busy open kitchen serving homemade pasta, Tuscan-style pizza, a respectable array of sea creatures and meat courtesy of Warsaw’s top butcher, Grzegorz Kwapniewski. No wonder it’s something a local cult.

W Kropki Bordo ul. Zaściankowa 96, wkropkibordo.pl Filling a binary role as a toyshop/bookstore, this jaunty cafe includes matted play areas, sofas and a whole flotilla of cakes and desserts made of natural produce.

Winalove ul. Kolegiacka 8, winalove.pl The menu is founded around pizza and the wine list appropriately slanted – but not limited to – Italy. Winalove also tout themselves as a gallery: expect plenty of pops of color from local artists.

YeYe Mex Food & Music Bar ul. Klimczaka 1, yeye.testa.com.pl Mexican food hasn’t imported well to Poland, but the kitchen team here have changed that with a simple menu that makes it look easy.

Some are calling it the best Mexican in the country and the margaritas are not too shabby either.

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

ASK AN EXPERT

Kamila Hartwich of the Artis Wellness Club talks about Poland’s most high tech gym!

What makes Artis different?

Artis Wellness Club isn’t part of some faceless fitness chain for the masses. It was created for those who appreciate values of quality, modernity and atmosphere.

We’re certain people will notice the difference and see the attention to detail. For example, our equipment is state of the art, produced by the prestigious Technogym brand. The sound system is Bose while the locker rooms are built to meet top standards. Most importantly, after reaching a predetermined number we will not be accepting any more members. Above anything else, that means the club is never going to suffer the overcrowding issues other gyms face.

How important is the technology?

It’s what really distinguishes us. When we say we’re a premium club we do so with a clear conscience: the technology is the very latest on the market. The Artis Club app is based on Technogym’s MyWellness platform and is fully compatible with all the hardware we have: using it you can save your training programs and results, store them in a cloud and view them at any time. They help our coaches monitor and analyze your progress, alter training programs and interact with our clients. Of course, we’ve also got thousands of readymade training plans which the app can match to suit your specific needs: whether it be getting rid of back pain or improving your tennis stroke. This is the most modern fitness club in the country.

Why Wilanow?

The location was crucial. We chose Wilanów because we felt that the people living in the area were ready for a premium fitness club. Looking at the catchment area we did have to tailor the offer, that’s why we’ve included a supervised play area for children, as well as free underground parking for members who commute from nearby areas such as Konstancin-Jerziorna.

Sounds good, but I’m not convinced…

So visit us! Your first visit is free so you’re always welcome to check us out and learn a bit more about the club. You can even join our classes which are supervised by some of Poland’s top athletes: for instance, Mikołaj Luft who is a Polish triathlon medallist, and Olympian Maciej Bodnar. We’ve also got boxing and martial arts classes as part of our MMA Artis program.

Artis Wellness Club ul. Franciszka Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2015 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2015 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Senses Casual Dining Bibenda Newcomer MOD Chef Sebastian Wełpa (Ale Wino) Modern Polish (Opasły Tom) Foreign Chef Martin Gimenez-Castro (Salto & Ceviche Bar)

BISTRO KASKRUT BY LILI FILIPIAK (ul. Poznańska 5) When they first opened in 2013, Kaksrut were seen as pioneers – some even viewed them as the budget version of Atelier Amaro. This was all thanks to fancypants food at everyman prices. Costs have inched their way up slightly, but no-one’s complaining. Innovative as ever, a summer rebrand has seen Lili Filipiak (of Top Chef fame) installed as the driving force in the kitchen, the introduction of natural wines and a new focus on gastro excellence. Maintaining a hip, buzzy feel, look on Kaskrut’s evolution as a progressive sign of their growing maturity. At zł. 99, the 4-course tasting menu is remarkable value.

LOKAL NA RYBĘ (ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4) Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretence interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes.

african american balkan & russian british burgers & street food chinese cooking schools cuban fine dining french georgian greek & turkish hungarian indian international italian japanese & sushi jewish korean latin & spanish mexican middle eastern pancakes polish russian scandinavian seafood specialty food shops steak houses thai vegan & wholefood vietnamese

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listings / restaurants african Café Baobab (H4) ul. Francuska 31, tel. 22 617 4057, cafebaobab.pl The work of former basketball player Aziz Seck, Baobab brings the tastes of Senegal to Saska Kępa. The mafe yap – beef stewed in peanut sauce – is as interesting as it sounds, and best enjoyed during their bi-monthly Saturday night concerts. $

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’.

The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.

22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$

giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$ Someplace Else (E5) Sheraton Hotel, ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6710, someplace-else.pl Favoring a stark concrete look, SPE were once a legend of 90s/00s Warsaw. Things have tamed down since that ex-pat heyday, but this remains a noteworthy choice for live concerts and zippy Tex Mex food. $$

balkan Ba Adriatico (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible.

But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril.

Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. $$ Banja Luka (E8) ul. Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka. pl Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. $$

british Dwa Woły ul. Rozbrat 8, tel. 22 409 00 86, dwawoly.pl Beef, bbq and burgers play a sizeable role at Dwa Woły in more ways than one: the double burger is an almost obscene, secret pleasure.

Also notable are their pastrami sandwiches and Tex Mex deals. With the summer closing out, enjoy the last rays of sun of their seasonal terrace. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the

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British Bulldog (D4) ul. Krucza 51, tel. 22 827 0020, bbpub.pl The pub design is wonderful, and straight out of Midsomer Murders with its Chesterfield sofas and Cutty Sark mirrors. But it’s been a downhill disaster since they lost the original management team. What could have become Poland’s original gastro pub now serves greasy burgers and, judging by the stench at the bar, lots of food that’s way over-fried. $$ Ę Rybę (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl Warsaw’s has done fish and chips before, yet nowhere has managed to capture the unique taste of the

British seaside as convincingly as this place.

Forget the grey and greasy offerings the city has previously volunteered, here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Doused with malt vinegar, and a couple of dollops of tartar sauce, here’s food that cuddles and comforts those Brits who miss home. $$ Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, tel. 22 622 4640, legendsbar.pl It’s a British pub first and foremost, but massive steps have been taken to ensure that the food angle isn’t overlooked. The all-day breakfast is a great way to stoke up your drinking powers, while other dishes of note inc. pies, sausages and mash and, of course, fish and chips. $$ Pik’s Fish & Chips ul. Grójecka 17B You wait years for a fish and chip shop and then two come along at once. But most of the Brits are converging on E Rybę in the center, and there’s a reason for that: entered into a head-to-head and there’s one clear winner. It’s not Pik. Comparisons to E Rybę are both inevitable and unfavorable: smaller portions and tastes that are just not quite there. $

burgers & street food Barn Burger (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger. pl Retaining a loyal crowd ever since their 2012 entry on the burger circuit, Barn Burger offer a loud and lively atmosphere and much celebrated burgers with goofy names like Heart Attack and Muppet. The list by the door notes the results of their American-style eating competitions / greed-fests. $ Beef’N’Roll (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel. 531 707 070, beefnroll.pl If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required.

Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. $ Burger Bar ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw’s first legitimate burger spot was the talk of the town when it first opened up in

listings / restaurants

Created by Jarosław Voitiuk, our menu is influenced by seasonal produce and it is mostly based on fresh fish and seafood delivered daily from Spain. Find a classic cuisine with a modern twist and a beautiful game of colours and form matched with award-winning wines and unique cocktails

2012, only to have its thunder stolen when 100 copycats opened in their trail. But this lot have kept plugging away, sticking to their guns with little song and dance. Intimate and unassuming, it’s for good reason they’ve retained a loyal core of fans – if the words masterpiece can be applied to a burger, then their green chili burger is just that. $

for Warsaw’s best burger. The fiery Desperados is as perfect as a burger gets, and best twinned with a Curiosity Cola from the Fentimans brand. Steaks and wings also available inside a cool diner setup. $

Kotakota Buns (E3) ul. Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/kotakotabuns Having made a splash last year on account of its tunnel-dark interiors and inspirational cooking, Kotakota have rung in the changes with chef Adam Leszczyński rethinking the menu to present a choice of bun-based meals that look set to rock Warsaw: fillings include meatballs with cheddar and are little short of outstanding. Rehydrate with local craft beers inside interiors filled with donated furniture and peeling plaster walls. $

Pełną Parą (B4) ul. Sienna 76, pelnapara.pl The Thai soup with lemongrass and chicken is fragrant, deep and nourishing, but it’s the Chinese dim sum they’re famous for mind, with eight variations thereof. Find yourself knocked sideways by these beautiful pouches of meaty goodness: the duck, orange and Sichuan pepper is a particular favorite.

Impossible to get tired of, these are of a standard that bring to mind London’s Chinatown. $

Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $

Pełną Parą na Nowo (D6) ul. Nowowiejska 10, pelnapara.pl A good gauge of Pełną Parą’s swoon-worthy offerings is the Dim Sum Mix: find a duo of Chinese dumplings (pork/shitake & bamboo/shrimp) plus a spicy kimchi-style cucumber salad topped off with some fried wontons and spring rolls. Appetites, however, may suffer if you sit too close to the manager, a person who sees nothing wrong with barking orders at the staff in the manner of a bulldog. $$

SAS Duck & Chicken (D5) ul. Piękna 54, fb.com/sasduckandchicken Although SAS Duck & Chicken feels reminiscent of the ‘hipster pop-up’ we first saw three or four years back, they’ve taken a tried and tested format and hit refresh. A small and simple space it might be, but this kitchen crew have won hearts and minds with an understandable menu that presents comfort food at its glorious best: BBQ hot wings, duck confit burgers, chicken skewers and turkey in a big, buttery brioche. These are simple pleasures refined for a picky palette. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $

ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 516 995 690, www.zmianaklimatu.pl

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Ziggi Point (B4) ul. Pańska 59, tel. 696 145 735 Diners are summoned to the counter to collect their order via a buzzer, before settling down to enjoy what has emerged as a real candidate

chinese

To Tu Dumpling Bar ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town.

Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! $

cooking schools Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available.

Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel.

Inspirational sensations and a new concept...

Our restaurant is recommend by:

Restauracja La Rotisserie, ul Kościelna 12, 00-218 Reservations: restaurant@mamaison.com or +48 22 531 6070

listings / restaurants 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

by his beret and whiskers, Swiss-born Kurt Scheller invites guests to his Saska Kępa kitchen for lessons aimed at all skill levels.

Scheller Academy ul. Międzynarodowa 68, tel. 22 626 80 92, schelleracademy.pl Instantly recognizable

El Caribe ul. Mickiewicza 9, tel. 22 400 0994, el-caribe. pl Start with a round of daiquiris before

cuban

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

ordering frijoles negroes (black beans). But everyone agrees, it’s the flan that gets you doing the cha cha. With the cooking left to a Cuban exile, this bubbly spot is worth the trip north to Żoliborz. $$

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$ Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc.). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of chef Wojciech Amaro (who, unfortunately, nowadays is a rare sighting in his restaurant).

Regardless, in the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond.

Reservations are mandatory, with a waiting list that is approximately two to three months long. $$$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, leregina.com A gloriously seductive dining room, Poland’s champion sommelier, and a chef that many recognize as being Michelin potential: put those three together and you have one of the finest experiences to be enjoyed in a Warsaw dining room. The cooking is ‘classic with a twist’, and in October that meant – for this diner at least – tuna with beetroot and yuzu, and a main of beef fillet: electrifyingly good. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Chef Michal Bryś might look like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, but his flair for experimentation is second to none: expect a menu

listings / restaurants that marries local produce with the latest tricks and techniques. The tasting menu (six courses for zł. 219) is a brilliant insight into the mind of a chef who likes to experiment and push boundaries. With all the hype you expect this place to be a little up its arse, but it’s anything but. Again, credit for that goes to Bryś and his front-of-house staff. $$$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the

tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl For those who think Argentine chef Martin Gimenez-Castro is just about steak, then they haven’t been to Salto. The tasting menu is the best way to view his full oeuvre, and on our visit included ceviche with Portuguese corvina; a dainty tranche of cavala mackerel; and Porcini ice cream served in the shape of a mushroom.

It’s a brilliant demonstration of the chef’s BEST passion and personality. $$$ WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl A spectacular experience from start to finish: begin by walking through a flame-lit tunnel, and then conclude the night with an edible cigar: a grand tobacco flavored pastry infused with whisky and cinnamon. In between our night includes beetroot bread with a teat pipette of apple essence; a beef rib that’s a big blast of smoke and crunch; and a shellfish goulash that’s rich and rough and rolling in flavor. Perfectly paced, expertly portioned and bristling with invention, their newly acquired Michelin star makes bookings recommended. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Fine Dining”

Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$ Tamka 43 (E3) ul. Tamka 43, tel. 22 441 6234, tamka.43.pl Ground floor: upmarket cafe serving Chopin fans. Upstairs: a fine dining restaurant in which the seasonal menu sets the natural flavors of Poland against the culinary know-how of tomorrow. It’s easy to drop serious money here, but you’ll still feel it’s worthwhile. $$$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic but

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listings / restaurants there is potential: if the other courses were a disappointment then the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. $$

georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. $

Klukovka (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming winter mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. That said, it’s never a surprise to find diners ordering up bottles of Georgian vodka before proceeding to share their way through the menu. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko. pl Vodka shots at the ready! Rusiko finished 2015 voted Gazeta Wyborcza’s Knajpa Roku, a very public endorsement of all they’ve done right. The food is the equivalent of a warm cuddle on a cold day – it makes you feel good in the heart and soul – and when it comes to hospitality they’re in a league of their own.

Live music lends the weekends a goodhumored twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

greek & turkish Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, So it’s best known as a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re

well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of Turkish grill food and salads. $ iGrek (H4) ul. Zwycięzców 28 (enter from Pl. Przymierza), tel 22 114 00 06, i-grek.pl Modernizing the whole concept of how Greek restaurants look and feel, iGrek have also made this cuisine extremely accessible: if you’re on the move, choose from a number of readymade cold dishes. One source of pride is their stock of olive oils imported from Crete. $ Kumpir House (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 59, tel. 723 101 111 Ensconced inside an inviting, raw brick room Kumpir’s warming aura has as much to do with its food and drink as it does its design. Sip fragrant Turkish coffee while picking through loaded jacket potatoes that bring to mind the street stalls of Istanbul. $$ Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$ Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $ Taverna Patris (G4) ul Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl Recall the days of summer island hopping inside Patris, a cheerful restaurant with a celebratory, family atmosphere. Decked out in typical tavern style, classics such as moussaka and suvlaki always go down a storm. $$

hungarian U Madziara (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to

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listings / restaurants marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. $

indian Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl One of the best looking Indian restaurants in Warsaw, but the food rarely pokes above average. For a cuisine that prides itself on rich, intense tastes, Bombaj gets remembered for bland, oily dishes that only sometimes get finished. Yet business remains brisk, thanks in part to a combination of location and general culinary ignorance. $$ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. Now also boasts a more salubrious location on Marszałkowska 10/16. $$ Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl It’s not been a distinguished year for the Indian scene, with a few old favorites slackening and newcomers failing to make a mark. But hail Curry House for their continued, ceaseless brilliance. That includes the hottest vindaloo for hundreds of miles! Evolving from a glorified hut out in far-flung Bielany (which is still going strong), they’ve recently upgraded and opened a new venue bang in the city center. $$ House of Curry ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire

experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. $$ Karma (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants.

The food is largely impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu, though it does lack the extra punch you maybe looking for. If there’s a complaint, then it’s thus: a little timid for more robust tastes, a few extra spices in the pot wouldn’t go amiss. $$ Mandala ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 & ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9, tel. 22 428 44 54, mandalaklub. com or indiaexpress.pl Celebrating their 10th birthday this year, Mandala is well on its way to becoming a Warsaw institution. But rather than resting on their laurels, the management are using this landmark anniversary as an opportunity to rejig the menu and update their offer. Using the freshest ingredients, Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. $ Mr. India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. Consistency, however, has become a problem. Whilst we rated a recent butter chicken as the best we’ve had for years, another Insider blasts the Madras as

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

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listings / restaurants being, ‘the worst curry ever served!’ Good luck. $$ Rani Al. KEN 48/10, tel. 729 247 400, rani. com.pl Mere steps from Metro Natolin, this restaurant’s catchment area goes beyond just Ursynów. Owner Samir is a selfconfessed foodie, and his vision includes a contemporary Indian menu that features pan-seared cod with turmeric, tomato salsa and mint chutney – wonderful. Rani will also please the traditionalists, with everything from creamy kormas to vindaloo’s that leave your ears blowing smoke rings. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$

international Aioli Inspired by Mini (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Such is the success of this venue, there

are moments when the scrum at the bar threatens to spill into blood sport. The huge neo-industrial interior packs out with a young, lively demographic sinking ‘tank’ beer and powerful cocktails over a menu that chiefly encompasses pizza and burgers. $$ Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good.

The liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, BEST WAWA 2015 “Chef” Oliver.

Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a

thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’.

The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$ Bez Tytułu (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com There’s a beauty to this restaurant that causes guests to stop a moment and soak it all in. Classy yet discreet, the interiors set art and photography against rehabilitated brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light downwards.

The classic cooking has French and Polish accents and has so far won glowing reviews – not least from Froblog, one of the country’s most trusted restaurant sites. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl With its weathered brickwork and a long wavy bar occupying a significant chunk of the entrance, you don’t get much more casual than Bibenda. ‘True food’, their menu calls it, before expanding to rattle on about ‘fresh, seasonal ingredients and home-style techniques’. On our visit that involved a potato salad with red onion and parsley: basic stuff, but delicious when mushed together; next, soft duck thigh placed on top of a tangy red cabbage reduction and served with charred parsnips; and dessert, a pink beetroot cake that was gobbled in seconds. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Casual Dining”

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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listings / restaurants Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it.

At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors.

Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$ Casablanca Biały Kamień ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. $$

Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł.

50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$

INTERNATIONAL CUISINE, BEAUTIFUL INTERIOR

- YOUR PLACE TO BE

The Cool Cat (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients.

Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. $$

Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing.

The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. $$ Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone.

Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$

ul. Wilcza 50/52 tel. 22 623 02 90 wilcza50restaurant wilcza50 www.wilcza50.pl

Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$ Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquette and Tom Dixon lamps.

The wine selection is among the best in

the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. $$ Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$

InFormal Kitchen (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$ Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$ La Brasserie Modern (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. $$

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark.

The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$

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listings / restaurants Lokal 14 (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 14, tel. 22 827 5480, lokal14.pl An artful menu of modern European “author’s cuisine” is topped off by a pleasing environment that’s big on light, wood and metalwork. Bulging with eco produce, the menu is a fine work that evolves with the seasons. $$ Manoush (D4) ul. Jasna 10, manoush.pl It’s rare to see Beef Wellington on a Warsaw menu, and even rarer to find it executed well. But that’s exactly what Manoush manage to do, presenting prime, pink beef wrapped in a flaky, puff pastry. The rest of the international, bistro-style menu is equally fulfilling, and includes a wondrous halibut. There’s no revolution going on at Manoush, but you sense it’s a place that knows exactly what it’s doing, and is doing it well. $$ Między Ustami (E5) ul. Mokotowska 33/35, tel. 530 323 325 The design joins elements of classic Prague

bordello against a London Soho bar, while the international menu features a decent steak nicely enhanced by a silky drizzle of demi-glace. With the food out of the way, stick around for some of the better cocktails found in this city. $$ MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney.

Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. Do not forget to check out their donuts during the daytime. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Newcomer”

Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class.

Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. $$ Momu.Gastrobar (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu. pl Back open after a revamp and a rethink, the biggest talking point has been the star addition of a wood smoker imported from the States. Allegedly the only one of its kind in Poland, the menu has been adjusted

www.focaccia.pl tel.: +48 22 829 69 69, ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia

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listings / restaurants Original Indian Cuisine

accordingly to play to this strength – with this in mind, the ribs are a must-have. $

Nowa Próżna (C3) ul. Próżna 10, nowaprozna.pl Where once Próżna was symbolic of Warsaw’s urban decay, today it’s been rebooted as a swank street of brasseries and bistros. Nowhere captures the zeitgeist with the same élan as Nowa Próżna, an intimate corner unit that feels representative of the change. Dishes to watch for include young rooster in an intense pool of jus and a zander encircled in a forest of greens: powerful stuff that leaves those assembled in a state of joy. $$ Oliva (D4) ul. Ordynacka 10/12, tel. 501 497 410, restauracjaoliva.pl The spirit of the Mediterranean hangs over Oliva, a place where a milk color palette is matched against potted herbs and soft wooden touches. The menu has riffs of Italy, Spain and Greece, with particular pride attached to their gourmet olive oils. The good news is capped by a wine list selected

by Marek Kondrat – an actor / wine merchant with a heavyweight reputation. $$ Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. Be warned though, the rumor is that the new chef has over-complicated what was a winning formula – we’ll be there soon to see for ourselves… $$

club

Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com Informal-looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/restaurant/bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental terrace that sees plenty of action. $$ Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Al. Jazdów 2 (Zamek Ujazdowski), tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto

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a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu. $$

Sawa Bistro (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl An unpretentious ride through largely Mediterranean cuisine with standouts including ‘Galicianstyle octopus’ and an Italian tartar with olive powder, shallots in port and balsamic vinegar and a smoked egg. The interiors are stripped to their original concrete and feature an eye-catching mosaic designed in the PRL style, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows and cheerful blue flashes. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. $$ Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $ ŚRD / PŁD (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 17, srdpld.pl From the same lot behind Powiśle’s Mr. Pancake, so already you know you’re getting yourself into a place that makes a big deal of being zany.

So it proves: Coca Cola sausages and burger soup are a couple of dishes that immediately flash up. Beyond this, and the slightly jarring baby pink and powder blue colors, it’s an exciting detour from the culinary norm. We enjoyed the ‘chicken salsa’. $ Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.

listings / restaurants pl A quite extraordinary concept that stands out as Warsaw’s most ambitious gastronomic project for years. Shoehorned between the Hilton and the dazzling Warsaw Spire, the first thing to strike visitors about Stixx is its size: immense. Despite that, an intelligent design means intimacy is never short in supply. The menu is bold, featuring elements of Polish, Asian and Italian cooking, an idea that sounds absurdly risky – so it speaks volumes for the kitchen staff that even in their first infant days it looks like a success story in the making: already, a few people are asking if it’s the best Indian food in the city… $$

Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. $$ Szklarnia ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), tel. 690 511 020, restauracjaszklarnia.pl The cuisine is influenced by the season, which means plenty of light summer dishes presented with real aplomb. Recognizable by the dazzle of neon and greenhouse outside, this is a restaurant that seamlessly fits with the Soho surrounds. $$ Socjal (E4) ul. Foksal 18 Looking raw, industrial and refreshingly ascetic, the principal feature of Socjal is a long communal table that lends a celebratory buzz. Menu highlights include homemade pasta and ravioli as well as pizzas that are held in particularly high regard. The location on Foksal makes affords opportunities for people watching. $$ Warburger Na Talerzu (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$

Wilcza 50 (D5) ul. Wilcza 50, dwietrzecie.waw.pl The helter skelter culinary history of Wilcza has seen umpteen openings and closings, and this L-shaped corner unit has been the principal killing field. The latest development has seen the acclaimed Dwie Trzecie rebrand as Wilcza 50 and revamp their menu. Big on natural, local ingredients, the cooking is modern and inspired. $$ Wilczy Głód (D5) ul. Wilcza 29A, tel. 22 891 0285 The jaunty, impish design makes use of cartoonish wolves on the walls and tree-like installations strung with bare light bulbs. And look, there’s a furry, mouse resting on a cushion. But if the place is playful and perky, then the cooking is both serious and sincere. Matching international ideas with organic local produce from small family farmsteads, you immediately sense this is a place created out of a love and respect for food. $

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza. pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $ DaCurio (E3) ul. Tamka 45A Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received. $$ Da Gusto ul. Przemysłowa 31/33, tel. 22 498 11 10, dagusto.com.pl A high-performing neighborhood joint with open, industrial interiors and a menu that feels classically Italian. The thin crust pizzas are a big deal here and have a solid local following. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble

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floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess.

The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custommade oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone.

Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$ Si (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails.

Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. $$

Trattoria Murano (B1) ul. Pokorna 2, tel. 516 754 300, trattoriamurano.pl Boosted by a number of new real estate projects, Muranów is in the midst of an unlikely renaissance. A direct knock-on has been the birth of numerous restaurants, though few can compete with Trattoria Murano. Looking dapper with its zigzagging brick patterns, circular lights, and large summer terrace, the good mood is further enhanced by a highly credible menu

Restauracja Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104 / 106, 02-620 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 646 42 08 www.restauracjastarydom.pl

Restauracja Zielnik ul. Odyńca 15, 02-608 Warszawa tel.: (+48) 22 844 35 00 www.restauracjazielnik.pl

Restauracja PAPU

Al. Niepodległości 132/136, 02-554 Warszawa

tel.: (+48) 22 856 77 88 www.restauracjapapu.pl

THE BEST BEEF PASTRAMI SANDWICH IN WARSAW

*tripadvisor.com

listings / restaurants that scores well on the Italian classics. The bistecca di manzo (beef tenderloin with green pepper sauce) is a wonder. $$

japanese & sushi Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills.

These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics.

Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $$ Łuski i Ości ul. Zajączka 9A, luskiosci.pl A fun design (cool wall art and a wraparound aquarium built into the bar) is ably supported by a comprehensive range of sushi – the imaginative presentation is fitting of some of the more unconventional pieces: the Californian rolls aren’t reticent about involving ingredients such as chili, passion fruit and jalapeno.

Omami (D5) ul. Mokotowska 29 (enter from Krucza) Sushi has been side-lined and ramen is rising.

Opened a few months ago, Omami promise four types of ramen, not to mention steamed buns and other budget-minded Japanese options. $ Om nom nom (D5) ul. Kurcza 41/43, tel. 794 925 075, fb.com/ omnomnom.sushito Japanese meets Mexican: if there’s a more unlikely culinary marriage, then we’ve yet to hear it. Set inside a colorful, wacky space, the specialty here is the sushito, a long sushi wrap filled with the likes of sweetcorn, jalapenos and chicken panko. In the words of one established restaurateur, this is ‘a place for rich kids who don’t have a clue about food.’ That said, it hasn’t stopped the place enjoying massive local success. If you like your eating habits to break the norm, then you could well enjoy it. $$ Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock

around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$ Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-mouth.

In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industriallooking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$

an ordinary meal in an ordinary space. The menu mixes aspects of Polish and Jewish cooking, and fails to do a good job of either. $

korean Miss Kimchi (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg,

Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$ Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo. pl While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$ Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$

PERFECT ITALIAN CUISINE IN THE HEART OF MURANÓW ul. Pokorna 2/U26 tel. 516 754 300 www.trattoriamurano.pl Open Mon-Sun 11:30-22:00

jewish Pod Samsonem (C1) ul. Freta 3/5, tel. 22 831 1788, podsamsonem.pl Operating since the 1950s – crazy when you think about it. This is the place for www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi.

This is replenishment in its truest form. $

latin & spanish

Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce.

Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$

$$

Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Usually bubbling with South Korean customers, their reassuring presence affirms Sora’s growing reputation as the top Korean restaurant in town. Set in a piece of slightly garish new build, the menu here is as close too authentic as you’ll find in Poland, and includes a fiery kimchi salad, and an interesting bibimbap: a vegetable mix served in a spicy sauce. $$

Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche

to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef” Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310, tapasbar.pl The engaging design features scuffed timber tables supported by rescued factory metal, open ductwork and elaborate floor tiles of Iberian persuasion. But the food is what everyone is talking about: the first class gazpacho, prepared onsite then served in a bottle, is full of refreshing zing, while the beef cheek is pure melty tenderness.

Our favorite, though, are the patatas bravas, perfectly fried potatoes served in a ballsy tomato sauce. Just amazing. $$ Restaurante Bunuel (H4) ul. Walecznych 61, tel. 798 659 554, bunuelrestauracja.com Spanish-owned Bunuel has left many in raptures. Simple interiors focus attention on the food, which in this

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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listings / restaurants case involves a crisp gazpacho that gets you missing summer, and grilled meats that leave many in a swoon. $$

mexican Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Dos Tacos finally have a venue worthy of the food. Featuring lots of Mexican lizard art and psychedelic, Day of the Dead touches, find the interiors busy with a lively crowd enjoying an exciting range of salsas and authentic Mexican recipes as cooked by Isabela Balderas. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by

fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. $ La Sirena (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Apparently inspired by the ultraviolent films of Danny Trejo, the design finds a middle ground between a traditional cantina and El Chapo’s jail. The menu includes creamy Kermit-colored guacamole, cocktails that are both vicious and delicious, and ‘drunken beans’ full of heart and vim.

Does it get better? Yes, particularly with the ‘short ribs burrito’ and a readjusted ‘almost death’ salsa that’s finally learned to say POW. This is the best Mexican food Warsaw is ever likely to see. $$ Loco Mexicana (A6) ul. Grójecka 27, locomexicano.pl Everything looks a little second-hand, smudged and smeared. Even the menu is little more than

a rumpled pile of papers. And there’s the colors: heavy purples, paintings of Mariachi men and brightly colored throws. It gives you a headache. It doesn’t improve with the food, which is stodgy, limp and generally lifeless.

That their lunch deal consisted of Russian pierogi says all you need to know about this supposed Mexican. The reprieve comes in the form of 12 or so beer taps serving a decent selection of punk beers. $ The Mexican (D1) ul. Podwale 29, tel. 22 635 3232, mexican. pl Everything Mexican food shouldn’t be.

There’s zero zing, and no matter what you order anticipate mysterious gloop with lots of mashed cabbage. It’s all such a shame, because with its burbling fountain and courtyard location The Mexican looks like it could be the real deal. Find their latest imposter hawking for custom on Zgoda 6. $$ Spoco Loco (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table. Discover a seasonal menu skillfully composed by chef Maciej Majewski by combining the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist.

Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by creating a sense of participation in a live culinary show.

La Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

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listings / restaurants the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. $

commonly regarded as the best falafel Warsaw has ever seen? In all truth, polls are closed on that one. Taking the place of the defunct Muu Muu restaurant, Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. $

Urban Burritos (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. $

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, www.lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. $$

middle eastern

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy

Falafel Bejrut (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel. The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. $ Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 (D2) ul. Moliera 8 So what would you prefer – an underperforming steakhouse or what’s

of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Samira ul. Powsińska 64a, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl There was something a little seedy about Samira’s old location, but that’s all forgotten in their new digs on Powsińska.

Find this great Lebanese supermarket filling a dual role as an authentic restaurant serving authentic dishes such as kafta and shawarma. $$ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl It says a lot for Warsaw’s developing tastes that it can now house a successful Yemeni venture. Bathed in chatter and chaotic kitchen sounds, Sokotra is an informal place with Indian twists on the menu, and a card that encourages plenty of plate sharing. $$

pancakes Manekin (C3) ul. Marszalkowska 140, tel. 22 826 0753, Originally founded in Toruń, this pancake house chain is a national phenomenon – there are times when queues for a table snake outside. The menu touts dozens of pancake options served in sweet and savory form (there’s even a spaghetti version…), though not everyone agrees they’re worth the often silly waiting times. $

Lebanese Restaurant

Le Cedre 61

opposite the zoo Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 11 66

Still the Best after all these years (since 1997)!

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Le Cedre 84

opposite the court Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 89 99

www.lecedre.pl

listings / restaurants polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the duck in rose sauce. $$$ Bazyliszek (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek.waw.pl Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. $

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Chłopskie Jadło (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1717, chlopskiejadlo.pl A nationwide chain enterprise designed to mimic a peasant inn, what with all the clunky pots and rustic supplements.

And if it’s farmers fare you’re after then the food isn’t too bad either, with thick, lumpy servings of countryside classics and soup presented in bread. Most Poles cringe at such a representation of their country, but there’s no denying it: it’s an accurate caricature of a mountain-slope karczma. $

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz. pl Shush! Big Brother is watching in the Red Pig, but the beady-eyed tyrants who stare down from the portraits do little to impede the sense of revelry. A cheeky celebration of days of yore, this commiethemed restaurant is always great fun. The

menu is a humorous affair divided between dishes for the proletariat and the dignitary.

Another vodka, comrade, and the first secretary’s pork loins while you’re there! $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. The menu sees Polish dishes modernized while being treated with competence and respect. Recommended: deer steak. $$

Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen)

listings / restaurants but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl See out the end of summer amid curling pathways and bursting shrubs, or sit inside in an interior that conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$

RESTAURANT &

VODKA

AT E L I E R

Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl The dashing interior causes you to stop, look and touch. On one side, a gleaming bar with twinkling bottles, and on the other, a smart series of rooms whose ash-colored tones are punctuated with dashes of copper. The menu has a traditional heart yet a contemporary style, and includes golonka to make the heart flutter: glorious slow-cooked meat alongside horse radish ice cream and a creamy cabbage mousse. The vodka pairing menu is essential! $$

Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Be honest, sometimes all you want to do is slather lard on a big hunk of bread before surrounding yourself with little shots of ice cold vodka. You wouldn’t call it

cultivated, but there are occasions when a good knees-up around a rough wooden table is exactly what’s required. And while you’re there, why not add platters of meat to the scene, a crackling fireplace and a mountain band. Folk Gospoda do all that making them the default favorite for a traditional night out. $$ Halka Restaurcja po polsku (E9) ul. Puławska 43, tel. 509 593 305, restauracjahalka.pl Named in honor of one of Poland’s best known operas, Halka offer a glimpse of old school Warsaw. Having relocated from downtown Pańska, the new address is a cut and paste of the former location: lots of glinting surfaces, ornate crockery and pink flower arrangements. Innovation is surrendered for a menu that deals in classic interpretations of upmarket Polish food: rabbit, goose, duck and other animals shot on country estates. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Jaś & Małgosia (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Back from the dead!

An institution dating from the 60s, Jaś & Małgosia have reopened after a three-year hiatus. Updated they might be, but the design (concrete floors, exposed brickwork) features several nods to the past – not least a replica of the famous neon that once crowned the roof. The menu was designed in collaboration with Aleksander Baron, and while unglamorous and uncomplicated is food that represents all that’s good about the Polish kitchen: thick soups, fresh vegetables and hefty meat. Most of all, it makes you feel good on a wet, windy day. $

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl Exceeding all expectations in their second year, the Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. Incidentally, the sea buckthorn cream was our top dessert of 2015. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled

by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$ Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant and boar. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled

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crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar. Agata Wojda’s cooking is sublime, and on our latest trip include a gentle goose confit rested on pumpkin puree and prune sauce and a smoked trout mousse full of unexpectedly vivid flavors. It’d be easy to write this off as just simple stuff done well, but you know that’s not the case: if it really were that straightforward, everyone would BEST WAWA 2015 be pulling it off. $$ “Modern Polish”

Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856 7788, restauracjapapu.pl The elegant décor sees wood-paneled walls lined with champagne bottles, making it an experience that is at once intimate and romantic. Chef Bartek Kędra’s menu is specifically strong when it comes to white and red meats: order the beef rib. It’s a massive, brutal instrument that could be used to club someone to death. Fall-off-the-bone good, this Flintstone monster is seriously memorable. Other courses are more sophisticated, and include a knee trembling, lipstick red strawberry tartar. $$ Prasowy (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteenstyle phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity

listings / restaurants with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated. $ Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $

Wielkanoc pełna smaku!

Smaki Warszawy (D5) Wyśmienity smak żurku z grzybami i białą kiełbasą, pasztet z dziczyzny www.smakiwarszawy. ul. Żurawia 47/49, z konfiturą z cebuli i rodzynek, drożdżowe baby i mazurki... plWielkanoc Well-known onbędą the Warsaw scene as a - niech twoje święta pełne smaku. delightful Polish restaurant, Smaki Warszawy is also renowned for its cakes. Smiling staff pour amazing lattés and serve up slices of to-die-for pistachio cream cake. $$ Zapraszamy do składania zamówień świątecznych: CENTRUM: ul. Żurawia 47/49, Warszawa, tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68, godziny otwarcia: 7:00 - 22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ul.Felińskiego 52, Warszawa, tel. +48 608 046 406, godziny otwarcia: 9:00 - 20:00 www.smakiwarszawy.pl

Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw.pl Beaver tail one month, carp heads the next.

Combing the farms and forests of Poland for his ingredients, chef Aleksander Baron’s menu is a daring exploration of his nose-totail philosophy with many of his methods reprising extinguished traditions. It’s a real experience, and one that’s enjoyed inside a spontaneous looking, cut-price interior that clacks and clatters to the sound of grown-ups playing board games. $$

Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$

U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$ Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 2, varso-vie.pl Despite the concrete color palette Varso Vie retains a good buzz. It helps that on one side guests are flanked by punchy bursts of modern art, and on the other, an open kitchen that’s all clamor, commotion and general rumpus.

The menu is modern Polish: duck stomachs in a flaky puff pastry with a thick smear of thyme sauce; Baltic trout served on a pinkish mush of red lentils and mint; and a coveted meringue mousse with mascarpone and passion fruit jelly. Exemplary. $$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

For An Authentic Polish Experience Visit Us...

Piwna 27 Stare Miasto (old town) tel. 22 635 3121

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. $$ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants russian Skamiejka ul. Ząbkowska 37, tel. 512 123 967, fb.com/ skamiejka It’s impossible not to love any place where the owner is found walking between tables singing to the gramophone.

That’s Tamara, and she’ll happily walk newcomers through the Cyrillic menu. The authenticity is undisputed with dishes including homemade dumplings, cabbage soup and a filling solyanka. An assortment of Russian spirits and beer keep the atmosphere in this homely venue bubbling, as do the regular Russian-themed cultural events.

A wonderful place that, in this day and age, does more to thaw Polish-Russian relations than pretty much anything else. $

scandinavian Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe. pl The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish

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cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food, with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. $$

looking at tarted up Varosvians whilst eating in your own boat? Do just that at Zmiana Klimatu, a tiny restaurant that somehow manages to squeeze in a sailing boat that seats six or so people. In keeping with the maritime hint, the menu explores the deep blue sea with a small selection of seafood that includes grilled octopus, halibut and bream. $$

seafood

specialty food shops

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc. pl You sometimes suspect Warsaw doesn’t give seafood the respect it deserves. But the city’s shortcomings are atoned for by L’Arc. Choose from the lobsters swimming on Death Row, then settle back for a meal to die for.

Likewise, the oysters, crab and mussels never disappoint. $$ Zmiana Klimatu (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, zmianaklimatu.pl Fancy

Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. And don’t miss a chat with the nation’s most celebrated butcher: Pan Grzegorz of Crazy Butcher.

listings / restaurants Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Heritage (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17, tel. 22 857 0912 Some people use Heritage as a wine bar, while others see it as more than that. And so it is. Peruse the Italian hams and cheeses in their fridge, olive oils, sauces and of course wine. Lots and lots of wine.

specializes in vending Spanish groceries, expressly the produce of the Canary Islands.

A creditable charcuterie section is enhanced by an array of cheese, wine and jarred exotica.

steak houses

Kosher Shop (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream.

Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$

Dobrze Co-op ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw. pl The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture. Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces.

Marks & Spencer Various locations inc. DT Wars & Sawa, ul.

Marszałkowska 104/122, tel. 22 551 7553, marks-and-spencer.com.pl Visit the flagship Marszałkowska branch to take advantage of the on-site bakery, but visit early as choice diminishes early. Aside from baked goods find a widely appreciated frozen food section that include British sausages, bacon and microwave curries.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza. warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca

Mojo Picon (D5) ul. Poznańska 3, mojopicon.pl Mojo Picon

Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810,

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Wed, Fri & Sat (see website for details), biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

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listings / restaurants merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better. During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef”

thai Naam Thai ul. Saska 16, tel. 505 110 100, naam.pl An

anonymous design and out-of-town location never stopped guests flocking here. But that stands to change after the departure of chef Chanunkan Duangkumma. What was Warsaw’s best Thai now finds itself facing the biggest challenge of its existence: recent reports have not been the kindest. $$ Thai Me Up (E4) ul. Foksal 16, thaimeup.pl Taking the spot once occupied by Papaya, Thai Me Up offers up a far more informal experience than the former, something understood by one glance at the interior: gone are the gloss finishes of yesteryear, replaced by something far more casual, fun and cluttered (check the monkey lights!). $$ Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

Thaisty (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma,

Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential. Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$

Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai. pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. $ Wi-Taj (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4 Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30.

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Ristorante & Cocktail Bar Si - Marszałkowska 115, Bank Square, Warsaw, phone: +48 507 099 190 e-mail: kontakt@restauracjasi.pl. For more info go to facebook.com/ RestauracjaSi

listings / restaurants vegan & wholefood Edamame Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing belowpar fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc.

The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. $$ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. $ Loving Hut (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 41A, tel. 888 555 568 What looks like just another Vietnamese greasy spoon is, in fact, part of a global chain backed by a spiritual master. The reading material is creepy and cultish, but the vegan food is good if you’re that way inclined. Now also found downtown on Waryńskiego 3. $ Mango Vegan Street Food (D4) ul. Bracka 20, mangovegan.pl Everything

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vegan that you’d actually like to eat: veggie burgers, fries, falafel, soup, a fruit salad – here, obviously a mango salad. Especially recommended is the hummus with sun-dried tomatoes – a nice twist on a simple dish. $ Momencik (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan burritos may sound wrong, but at Momencik they’re every bit as good as anything you’ll be used to. The only difference is that you won’t leave feeling like you’ve eaten a sack of socks: on the contrary, it’s got all the perky flavor that Mexican food should have, but none of the unpleasant post-meal bloaty bubbles. And it’s cheap!

Diners fork out less than zł. 22 for a lunch deal that includes homemade lemonade, a burrito and soup of the day: it’s your lucky day if that happens to be their tomato soup. $ Veg Deli (E3) ul. Radna 14 An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. Even committed meat eaters recognize there’s something special going on here. $$ Vurst (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Who in their right mind opens a tiny, little joint in the back streets of Saska and then fills the interior with a

life size Darth Vader and a board that asks customers to: “Stay Tuned and Praise Our Lord Satan”? Specializing in vegan hot dogs, the dawgs themselves are small and soggy: the kind of damp disappointment you buy at the gas station. $ Youmiko Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg Already wellestablished in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. $

vietnamese Du-Za Mi-Ha (D4) multiple locations, duzamiha.pl A compact Vietnamese joint noted for fresh, healthy nem filled with crunchy, perky fibers. The pho, on the other hand, is disappointing – according to one reader, “awful”. Prices begin at around zł. 10 and don’t go far north of zł. 20. You get what you pay for. $ Toan Pho (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery.

The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. $

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around.

WARSAW PERK (ul. Andersa 8) And then there were two. Hot on the heels of Warsaw’s first Friends themed café comes another, this one found amid the concrete communist monoliths of Muranów. You wouldn’t call it a replica of the real thing, but there is at least an orange couch, some oriental-style rugs and a guitar lying about: according to the owner, it’s the atmosphere that’s more important. The homemade cakes are a specific highlight.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery (D5) ul. Krucza 23, fb.com/krucza23 There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Paul Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

LA COCOTTE SASKA (ul. Walecznych 68A) Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and Frenchfocused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience.

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Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the pastries and brioches.

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy

listings / cafés & wine bars of the rave reviews. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak.

Zdrowa Konkurencja (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, zdrowakonkurencja.pl Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and other quick bites.

desserts Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

w

Deseo (H3) ul. Angorska 27, deseopatisserie.com Conducting operations from a glassed-off laboratory at Deseo’s mothership in Saska Kępa, watching pastry chef Piotr Chylarecki at work is to witness a mix of magic and science: you’re not sure which. Calculated precision and intricate methods collide with passion and understanding for the products at hand, themselves sourced from afar afield as Madagascar and the Dominican Republic.

The denouement is a selection of pralines and cakes that cause you to stop and stare at these intricate baubles.

La Vanille (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lavanille.pl Thick with the scent of icing sugar, La Vanille’s big boast are cupcakes that will make you swoon. Find them lined up in precise formation under a glass counter, and don’t forego the cakes in the display case to the right. It looks chic and glossy, but most get the cupcakes packed up to go for private indulgence.

Le Chocolat (D5) ul. Żurawia 26, lechocolat.pl This chic emporium is the realization of one couples desire to offer top-quality chocolates that challenge the palate of the discerning fan.

Inspired by the chocolate boutiques of Paris, over twenty different brands from a dozen countries are available. Handmade pralines and truffles, displayed almost like jewels, come in a rainbow of fillings, from coconut to cherries, mint to almonds.

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 A place full of everlasting love for the humble donut. Inspired by their travels to New York, owners Kamila and Patrycja have filled a hole in the market by creating a cool spot that’s committed to natural ingredients and the artisan process.

Those glistening technicolors you see are down to the use of fresh fruit and dried flowers! Soft and chewy, enjoy dazzling flavors such as mango or hibiscus.

Odette (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems.

cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35 (check website for other locations), blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100-year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Bubbleology (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, bubbleology.pl Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese

The award-winning Enoteka Polska is back, this time with a new location in the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town.

A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego

Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl

tel. 882 048 012

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listings / cafés & wine bars lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. Warsaw’s original bubble tea stop offers an arsenal of fruit flavors concocted by zany-looking lab-coated staff.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 794 000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 Deviating away from ‘the Warsaw look’ (i.e. concrete, pipes, etc.), Cophi is the kind of place you actually want to stay in: homey and intimate but at the same time light and modern. You can sense the thought and passion behind this operation from the staff – find them using Aeropress, Chemex, siphon and drip methods with almost scientific precision in their quest to serve you what some are already claiming to be Warsaw’s best coffee.

Czuły Barbarzyńca (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, filtrycafe.pl Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light

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breakfasts combined with a funky fleapit atmosphere that attracts hipster art lovers.

it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants.

Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Kos (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. Find it inside the Jewish Community Center.

Odette Tearoom (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl If you thought those living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them: the ground floor Odette Tearoom. Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul.

Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy. pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day.

And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Monsieur Leon (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets.

Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur.

With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space,

Przystanek Powiśle (E3) ul. Browarna 6 Of the many things to like about Przystanek, it’s probably the desserts that swing it: homemade cakes and flans that cause all life to pause. Perfectly poised overlooking Park Kazimierzowski, the summer terrace is a popular spot from which to explore their small range of niche beers and wine. Outside of night time hours, many sing the praises of their creative range of tapas and snacks.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days.

listings / cafés & wine bars wine bars Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. And the wine choice is prodigious: offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Apple technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed.

The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł.

Mielzynski Wine Bar (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much.

Wine Taste by Kamecki (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, winetaste.pl Run by Piotr Kamecki, President of the Polish Association of Sommeliers, this beautiful glass-fronted unit functions both as a wine bar and store offering expert advice, cellar design and tastings.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Winosfera (B3) ul. Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

Żurawina (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag.

Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace.

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green

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nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

PADBAR WARSZAWA (ul. Wierzbowa 9) How’s this for an odd coupling: retro Ninetendo games and progressive beers. Set over two floors, Padbar celebrates the golden years of gaming with a number of consoles offering a smorgasbord of legendary games – Mortal Kombat, Fifa, etc. Competition nights get heated, though the overriding mood remains good natured and light hearted: not that different to being round a mate’s house.

bars & pubs 2Koła ul. Tunelowa 2B Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly.

Bar Gemba (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52 Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras. Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. Replacing the oddly downcast Jedna Trzecia, Gemba slots in well amongst the other post-hipster bars in the area.

JABEERWOCKY JUNIOR (ul. Nowogrodzka 12) After a brief summer break Jabeerwocky Junior has reopened… as a cider bar! While the portfolio is still in the process of being finalized, the idea is to carry a couple of tap offerings alongside a bottled collection of Polish and international ciders. Of the domestic brands, Kwaśne Jabłko deserves to become a household name. Enjoy it inside an intimate brick room that feels suitably atmospheric.

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Bar Warszawa De Luxe (D2) Krakowskie Przedmieście 79 Leave your visit to the weekend when De Luxe unfurls into something resembling a Polish wedding disco. All the requisite characters appear in this spinning vortex of Boney M: vodka-fuelled Incredible Hulks, groping granddads, svelte students and everyone else in between. Somehow, the formula works without a hitch. There are Poles who’d be mortified by this representation of their country, but the truth is, it’s a rip-roaring time that’s enjoyed by most.

TOP PHOTO FACEBOOK, BOTTOM BY IAN FERGUSON

Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

listings / nightlife Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13 There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

club: check it out for the bright, banging beats of the Bollywood sound.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Bierhalle Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle. pl Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special.

Bohemia (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl As welcome as the global beer reformation has been, it has had its drawbacks: namely, the number of snobs and zealots found leering over pineapple stouts and impossible IPAs. Sometimes you just want a normal bar with good, clean lager. Bohemia is that place.

This is a Czech bar for modern times: stylish interiors of glass and wood and a so-called ‘tank system’ that maintains the beer’s freshness. Try the ‘Mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With

18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, fb.com/oleandrow3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Now on Nowy Świat, the team have used the opportunity to upgrade their offer: gone is that low-rent feel of old, replaced in favor of a more classy look and a slicker crowd.

What has remained constant is the energy.

Ace cocktails (recommended: Jim Ban Chili), tottering talent and a range of sheesha pipes make it a weekend must, though the big news is the completion of their downstairs

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listings / nightlife several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!).

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx. pl It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle down.

W Oparach Absurdu (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall.

There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. Żyrafa (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22 Sucked inside it’s green/ blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in.

“There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure.

clubs

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Backstage Studio (A3) ul. Chłodna 35/37, backstagestudio.club Snuggled into a row of shabby cabins mostly rented to sex shops and gambling dens, Backstage feels secretive and clandestine. In spite of that, it’s earned a name among the younger generation as one of the best spaces in Warsaw for electro, minimal and techno nights (check their Facebook for upcoming events). Rather bigger than it looks, step downstairs to find chaos unfurling in a labyrinthine basement.

Klubo (D3) ul. Czackiego 3/5, klubo.pl You can almost feel this club’s legendary status as you, descend down into their basement. Dark, vibrant and decorated in a way that evokes the glory years of the 80s and 90s, tip down their house cocktails inside and writhe alongside other clubbers in a series of deep reddish rooms banging out house, disco and R&B sounds.

No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego Clubs in the bowels of Poniatowski Bridge are nothing new. Traditionally mind, they’ve been grim bunker venues with mucky walls and dripping toilets. No Comment is a breath of fresh air, with an upmarket bearing, ritzy cocktails and deep interiors that whisper the delicious, dark decadence of a David Lynch film. Weekends only, it’s a place that’s acquiring a licentious after party reputation among glam, upscale types.

Platinium (D3) ul. Fredry 6, platiniumclub.pl It might have lost its crown as Warsaw’s most glamorous club to The View, but you wouldn’t necessarily know: come weekend and Platinium gets busy with a debauched crowd of champagne popping party people.

The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw.

A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache.

cocktails 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 Taking its lead from the New York fad for covert bars, the 6 adventure begins in front of a heavy arched gate. Ring the bell, await the buzz of approval and then find yourself summoned into a rambling apartment that feels sultry and sensual.

Complete with a shadowy smoking lounge and a whirlpool tub in the bathroom, it’s the best secret in Warsaw. To enjoy the

listings / nightlife bespoke cocktails yourself, message them on Facebook and await your invite…

Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through a thin autumnal THE MOST mist, this white townhouse radiates warmth: REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZED PLACES TO MEET lights glimmer, piano music tinkles. WoodCIGARS &and WHISKYlined with leather-bound tomes, paneled ≈ WINE & C there’s a≈HAMPAGNE sense of dignity that’s unique to COCKTAILS &cocktail CUSINE Warsaw’s scene. There’s humor, as ≈ TASTINGS well, courtesy of portraits of chimps togged ≈ RIVATE EVENTScentury gentry. Similar to a out Plike 18th ≈ LOCATION SHOOTS members’ only Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with aPtwist’ ODWALE Bcocktails AR AND BOOKS mixed and muddled by the Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw sortTel.: of+48charming bartenders you’d trust serv225.599.199 ing Bond. While bills can become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well!

TM

Biała ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij Occupying the garden of a stunning inter-war

villa, this project has been masterminded by Grupa Warszawa, the team behind such successes as Syreni Śpiew, Weles and Zorza. As such, expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself – currently outdoors only, we’re promised the interiors should be ready for autumn.

Column Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol) Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead.

For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless. In summer, enjoy your drinks out in a beautifully tranquil courtyard.

Fokim (D5) ul. Krucza 24/26 To like is an edgy interior that includes a neon that urges customers to ‘eat, drink, dance, riot’ and an Asian-inspired

drinks list that features sake on-tap, shots with names like Karate Kid, and cocktails with proper verve: e.g., the Marry Me, a bonkers, bastardized version of the Bloody Mary that’s actually better than the real thing.

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by a dreadlocked Dane called Bram.

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go

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listings / nightlife as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz.

The Roots (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11 Like the food and beer sector before it, Warsaw’s cocktail scene has been ripped and reinvented by the artisan movement. With a riveting cocktail list that demonstrates the full scope of the staff’s talent, The Roots is the latest in a string of bars to adapt to the times. Sip up inside a delicious interior furnished with glistening collectibles that tell the story behind the arcane craft of mixology.

Varso Vie (D6) Pl. Konstytcuji 2, varso-vie.pl A cool bar / restaurant decorated with art that’s both sensual and suggestive. Behind the bar, homemade syrups, seasonal ingredients and high caliber alcohol are all present, but so to the most important component: the staff who can handle them. Try the Polish Colada: involving Bols Natural Yogurt, Pawlina vodka, pineapple, lemon and sprinkling of chocolate, it’s a superb drink that does a grand job of rehabilitating a largely derided classic.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl A swing of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

At weekends this place rocks when DJ Trent gets onto the decks.

Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes.

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craft beer Artezan Pub (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A, fb.com/Artezan.pub Regarded by many as the best, most consistent craft brewery in Poland, the opening of Artezan’s flagship pub has been eagerly awaited for several months. Launched just as we went to press, we’ll be enjoying it in full in time for next issue.

BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 First things first: BrewDog’s beers begin at zł. 17. On learning this there are some who scatter, others who scoff, but the let’s get the facts straight – you’re unlikely to find a cheaper pint of BrewDog in the world! Hailed as one of the top artisan breweries on the planet, quality is the name of the game here: this is a place where the interiors rock and the beers go BOSH. No pub will do a better job this year.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw. pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants.

Broaden your horizons!

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piot and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Even in an area bulging with bars, Jabeerwocky has become a point of pilgrimage for beer aficionados. If the creative line-up of guerrilla breweries wasn’t enough, then there’s the management’s readiness to roll their sleeves up and even brew their own beer. Add to that an atmosphere of general hubbub and you have our favorite tap bar of all time!

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze.

Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

gentleman’s club Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino, and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool.

Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one.

Pardon To Tu (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 12/16, pardontotu.pl Decorated in voluptuous brothel colors, the design involves mismatched seats, tilted lampshades and a relaxed arthouse look popular with creatives. The live talent ranges from moody quartets to jazzy chanteuses, while a perfect marriage of late hours and great bottled beers helps the crowd along.

shopping accessories Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewellery store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amber-related souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland.

Calvin Klein ul. Mysia 3 Poland’s first Calvin Klein concept store is dedicated to watches, jewelry and assorted beautiful shiny things that everyone covets.

WALL ART APTEKA SZTUKI (Al. Wyzwolenia 3/5, aptekasztuki.eu) Focusing on the work of disabled artists the exhibits rotate on a monthly basis and include a variety of forms: from painting and sculpture through to video and performance art. “Usually,” they say, “we draw our attention to artists whose work borders the abstract.”

BWA WARSZAWA (ul. Jakubowska 16, bwawarszawa.pl) Artists taken under the wing of BWA include Adam Adach, Ewa Axelrad and Little Warsaw. Those represented by BWA have seen their work displayed in several prestigious institutions, with the gallery themselves recognizing they are seen as a springboard for those “taking their first steps on the international art scene.”

GALERIA LETO (ul. Lwowska 3/14, leto.pl) Founded in 2007 by Marta Kolakowska, Leto’s program is both international and interdisciplinary, consisting of evolving exhibitions and live acts. Representing some of the biggest names in Polish contemporary art, luminaries who fall under their umbrella include Maurycy Gomulicki, Aleksandra Urban and Konrad Smoleński.

RASTER (ul. Wspólna 63, en.rastergallery.com) In their own words, “the Raster is among the pioneers and leaders of the Central European contemporary art market, and one of the world’s most recognizable galleries from Poland. The gallery’s exhibition activities span Europe, Asia and the Americas, while striving to support and develop Warsaw’s local art scene.” Complementing the contemporary art, the on-site bookshop is a local leader when it comes to arty titles.

Chiara (Saska Kępa) Promenada Shopping Centre, ul. Ostrobramska 75C, chiara-online.pl You’d never expect it but this chic little shop stocks the best shoes and bags in the city – stock up on the latest collections from Michael Kors, Celine, Stuart Weitzman, Ralph Lauren and Mulberry. di Trevi Boutique Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestigious brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Glamstore ul. Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka) Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colours you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelery line.

Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

HOS&me ul. Mokotowska 63, mokotowska63.com www.warsawinsider.pl

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THE PRINCE OF PORCELAIN

A ceramic designer and producer, Bartek Mejor is at the forefront of a new wave of designers who are getting Poland noticed…

What inspires you at this current moment?

Right now, I want to concentrate more on the tactile qualities of ceramics and develop objects that look soft and organic but also have a certain manmade, ‘digital’ aesthetic. I am continuously inspired by 3D modelling programs and the endless possibilities of manipulating forms within these – they free your imagination by allowing you to control shapes in ways that would be difficult to achieve without computers. Another source of inspiration is, of course, nature. I like to pick up a detail observed in nature and then use it to create new work. For example, the idea for the Surf centerpiece produced by Vista Alegre came when I was sitting on a beach and looking at patterns left by waves on the wet sand. After taking some photos, I traced the lines in a 3D modelling program to create the irregular shape of the centerpiece.

Where is the line between form and function?

As a designer/maker with a strong background in craft, I operate within applied arts and see a strong relationship between form and function. Every form I create needs to be useful in some way: it could be a lamp, a plate or something else.

Having said that, I am not focused entirely on the functionality of the object. It has to be functional, but at the same time it needs to inspire with its form – it has to be desirable.

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What constitutes ‘good design’?

When it comes to industrial design and consumer goods I agree with the influential designer Dieter Rams, who said: “less but better.”

This philosophy guided Jonathan

PORTRAIT BY ELA LEMPP

WI: How do you define your work, and how has it progressed and developed?

BM: My work is a combination of traditional hand craft and 3D modelling and manufacturing. I started by learning to make shapes on a potter’s wheel and built my first ceramic kiln from a discarded oil drum. After taking part in an international ceramic festival in Wales I started to look for apprenticeships with established potters and worked for one year in the studio of the London artist Daniel Reynolds. This was the beginning of my fascination with porcelain – this ancient, white, translucent material.

How do you hope international audiences view contemporary Polish design?

I hope people are getting gradually accustomed to seeing good design and beautiful objects made in this part of the world. Nowadays, everything is interconnected and I don’t think you can identify a specific style or character to ‘Made in Poland’ design. Many designers, including myself, were educated abroad and work in other countries as often as they work here.

MELT, 2011

CORAL, 2012

Ive and his team when they designed Apple products. Good design means being true to the material and showcasing its characteristics and potential beauty, be it stone, wood, metal or plastic.

The color white dominates your collections…

This austere color choice is dictated by the material. I want to showcase the qualities of porcelain and prefer not to cover it with shiny glazes. Another reason is the sculptural nature of the pieces: the whiteness of porcelain helps to bring out the texture in contact with light. This is particularly visible in geometrical collections such as Matrix and Quartz. Nevertheless, I don’t rule out using color and have recently designed pieces for clients that feature decorative patterns in several different hues.

VAGUEIRA, 2011

MATRIX, 2012

What’s next for Bartek Mejor?

I’m looking forward to a second year of working with students at the Warsaw Academy of Fine Arts, where I teach a course in ceramic design.

Also, a line of objects is currently taking shape that will form the core of a new design collection/brand I plan to launch next year. Stay tuned.

Try before you buy! Bartek Mejor’s Matrix tableware is used at the Michelin starred Atelier Amaro. Purchase your own piece of Bartek from the Długa Showroom (ul. Długa 8/14) or online at decosalon.pl.

www.warsawinsider.pl

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fashion pages

FALL IN LOVE WITH BURGUNDY As the seasons change, so should your wardrobe.

This autumn, all fashion casualties should be looking to invest in at least one piece of clothing in this fall’s trendiest color: burgundy.

Whether you’re sporting a comforting cashmere jumper or an eye-catching leather bag, pair them with boyfriend jeans for a casual, street look, or opt for a more sophisticated style by mixing burgundy with shades of grey.

With those ticked off the shopping list you’re ready to sip a glass of red in style.

BY JULITA PRYZMONT

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rag & bone, zł. 750 (Frank A & Frank Y)

No21, zł. 1,800 (Frank A & Frank Y) Proenza Scholer, zł. 7,250 (Frank A & Frank Y)

American Vintage, zł. 499 (Lolly Pop Concept Store)

Isabel Marant, zł. 1,890 (Frank A & Frank Y)

rag & bone, zł. 3,900 (Frank A & Frank Y)

listings / shopping Luxury jewelry and the best in the biz. In stock: high end treasures from Nialaya, Lene Bjerre Design, Ti Sento, Christensen and Dryberg/Kern.

Impossible Project ul. Mysia 3 The Polaroid comes back to life in Impossible Project, a place with refurbished original cameras as well as new film formula.

Kate Roxs ul. Radna 10, kateroxs.eu Beyond the slightly creepy / fetishistic window display (leather Roman body armor), this store has earned a reputation for high quality, natural leather bags. “Our inspiration,” says Kate, “comes from women, not trends.”

Lilou ul. Mokotowska 63, lilou.pl Modular jewelry made simple, and a must for all Warsaw fashionista.

Minty Dot ul. Bracka 5, mintydot.pl Top quality Polish jewelry composed using gold, silver and natural stone. Contemporary in style, these are accessories that radiate class and craftsmanship while at the same time exuding a subtle sense of timeless romance.

Mo61 ul. Mokotowska 61, tel. 601 652 593, open Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00, mo61.pl Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 is the only place in Poland that allows customers to create their own scents. Under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!), visitors compose their own perfumes inside a beautifully renovated pre-war space.

Omega Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16A, omegawatches. com Newly opened, Poland’s first Omega boutique showcases watches, leather accessories and jewelry across 200 sq/m of luxury real estate.

Pingle Optyk ul. Hoża 40 A collection of hand-selected eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. Yes, you’ve got your ubiquitous Ray Ban classics, but you’ve also got the electric blue version. You’ve got your Chanel and YSL classics, then there are the leather-trimmed frames from Paul Smith and many more funky models straight from Paris.

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Pracownia Szczotek ul. Poznańska 26, khaja.pl Opened in 1952, this bespoke brush store has been passed down from grandfather to father and then onto son. On offer: everything from paintbrushes to moustache combs to hairbrushes.

And the owner is a character as well: “I don’t have time for Facebook,” he says, “it would get in the way of my tango lessons!”

Pracownia Czasu ul. Wiejska 14, pracowniaczasu.pl A true market leader with brands including Paul Picot, Graham London, Vulcain, Cuervo y Sobrinos, Ulysse Nardin and so many more.

Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

Stara Mydlarnia Various locations inc. ul. Chmielna 4, mydla. pl Handmade cosmetics such as fragrant soaps, bath gels and salts, body butters, massage oils and aromatic candles. Ideal for home pampering.

Time To... Design Shop ul. Poznańska 7, timeto.com.pl Discoveries include quirky, spiky bags from MadPax, Haribo jewelry adorned with Gummy Bears and animal print mugs from Pikczersy. Above all though, the place is about timepieces, namely highly individualistic works from the S.T.A.M.P.S brand: averaging around zł. 100, this is as affordable as talking points get.

Victoria’s Secret Beauty & Accessories ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy) & ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) An assortment of Victoria’s Secret Beauty products including fun and flirty fragrances, such as Bombshell, as well as the scented VS Fantasies body care range. For that glam girl-on-the go, expect to find a wide range of Victoria’s Secret branded bags, luggage, passport covers and small leather goods to cosmetic bags, bangles and key fobs.

antiques Antykwariat na Tamce ul. Tamka 45B, antykwariat-tamka.pl How can you not love this second hand

store? Presided over by a super-friendly hippy-looking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books.

Kolo ul. Obozowa 99, gieldastaroci.waw.pl What looks like a soggy tent city transforms each Sunday morning into a hopelessly addictive flea market offering wartime militaria, religious icons, chinaware, furniture from unverified periods of history, and even the occasional suit of armor. Half-junkyard, half treasure trove, it’s an experience in itself.

Kwadryga ul. Wilcza 29, kwadryga.com Entered through a courtyard, it’s a magnet for bibliophiles, and groans with antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless. The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past.

books Atticus ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12, atticus. pl You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; set just a few meters from the gates of the university, this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves.

Although Polish is the dominant language, English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven.

Books For Cooks ul. Inżynerski 1, booksforcooks.pl Just guess what the specialty here is? And if the Praga address deters you, then click to their web to find a hefty offer of original language cook books, memoirs, restaurant guides and assorted foodie must-haves.

Czuły Barbarzyńca ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A cafe / bookstore hybrid that you’d imagine doing well in Paris.

The Polish-language choice is broad, and whilst the number of English-language could be extended everyone finds the atmosphere irresistible.

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana ul. Mokotowska 65/7, beczmiana.pl A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with

listings / shopping an accent on modern Warsaw.

Księgarnia Bullerbyn ul. Chmielna 10, bullerbyn.com.pl A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo!

Moda Na Czytanie ul. Bracka 25 Some brilliant Warsaw-focused coffee table books, as well a half-decent collection of English-language books that range from classics to contemporary fiction.

di Trevi Boutique ul. Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic interior that exudes luxury.

Radio Telewizja ul. Andersa 29 Radio Telewizja stock a range of literature that cover topics from local art and architecture to contemporary history.

Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material, and extends further into quirky gifts and black/ white photos that capture the era.

Dream Nation ul. Kopernika 8/18, dreamnation.pl Founded in 2011, Dream Nation is a label committed to sustainable fashion. Find colorful dresses and original prints spruced up by the designer’s wild, personal twist. All garments are made using organic cotton.

Super Salon ul. Chmielna 10, supersalon.org Filled with beautiful titles, Super Salon dedicates itself to books, magazines and albums covering weighty subject matter such as photography, design, erotica and architecture. Represented publishers include Phaidon, Gestalten and Steidl.

fashion Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

Balthazar ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728.

Cafardini ul. Grzybowska 5A, cafardini.com Complete suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric. Using the finest natural raw materials, Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively.

Chrum ul. Dobra 53, chrum.com Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy their fashion with a pinch of humor.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

Frank A ul. Natolińska 3, franka.pl The interior is painfully chic and the clothing effortlessly elegant with a minimalist edge. Stocks major brands that you can’t find anywhere else in Warsaw, from handbags from Pauric Sweeney, perfectly fashioned tees from American Vintage and ballet flats from Bloch.

Gosia Baczyńska ul. Floriańska 6/11, gosiabaczynska.com. pl This elegant boutique on the other side of the river features gorgeous, unique designer pieces.

Hamper’s Bay ul. Dobra 11, hampersbay.com Fit out and fit into the local scene by stocking up on clothes from this Powiśle staple. Brands include Komono, Dynomighty, Uggly, Happy Socks and Wemoto. No-one knows why, or too whom, but they also sell surfboards.

Joanna Klimas ul. Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com One of

Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion.

L’Aura ul. Mokotowska 26 Warsaw has its modest share of designer boutiques, but L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho.

Likus Concept Store ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store.

Lolly Pop Concept Store Al. 3 Maja 14, lollypop.pl For the very latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more, check their online shopping store: sklep.lollypop.pl Madox ul. Browarna 4, madoxdesign.com Best known for the baggy crotched trousers that took Warsaw by storm a couple of years back, Damian Nowacki’s fashion store juxtaposes urban street casual against unisex ideas.

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Mostrami.pl mostrami.pl Known to insiders as the ‘Polish Net-a-porter’, the online Mostrami portal showcases a whole breed of Polish fashion talent: Blessus, Justyna Chrabelska, Łukasz Jemioł, and Zuo Corp, as well as the rock stars of the local scene such as Kupisz, Zień and Plich. Around 100 designers to choose from, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / shopping with prices straddling the wide spectrum of purchasing power.

Muji ul Mysia 3, muji.com.pl Having first opened its doors in 1983, in Japan, Muji still retains its simple aesthetic and ethos of marrying functionality with sophistication, with products ranging from furniture, kitchenware, stationary and clothing. Check out their online store.

Pan Tu Nie Stal Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Ptasia 6 ul. Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka.

QπШ - Robert Kupisz ul. Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Sabotage ul. Burakowska 5/7 Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy

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funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo.

Safripsti ul. Oleandrów 3 Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. And how about a classic Burberry mac for zł. 200?

Sen Nocy Letniej ul. Oleandrów 5A, sennocyletniej.pl A perfume concept store in which the sacred meets the profane. Sophisticated yet wearable scents are crafted using traditional methods and are displayed alongside luxurious cosmetics and aromatic candles. These are products that connect soul the spirit, mind and body.

Van Thorn ul. Sienna 39, tel. 22 243 7377, vanthorn. pl Bespoke and made-to-measure suits as well as custom-made shirts and a range of accessories from ties and pocket squares down to shoes and cufflinks. The attention to detail, the quality and craftsmanship are staggering.

Vintage Store ul. Dobra 56/66 (Level 1, University of Warsaw library), vintagestore.pl Since its inception the store has grown in many ways – now, used brands like Burberry, Barbour, dresses from the ’70s, Hermes scarves, snakeskin handbags, or original Adidas sweaters from the ’60s and ’70s (the owner is an avid collector) are not an uncommon find in the shop.

Viola Śpiechowicz ul. Kolejowa 55 (Łomianki), vsstore.eu/ violaspiechowicz.com Viola Spiechowicz is an inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative fashion designer who has cultivated her own original and inimitable style since her 1992 debut. Her designs are the result of a long search for the perfect form, texture and color scheme, lending each project its own unique style: be it fashion, upholstery fabrics or accessory design.

Wake Up The Bear ul. Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes.

Weareso.organic ul. Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you. Designers use only natural materials. You’ll also find several items for home.

Zaremba ul. Nowogrodzka 15, zaremba-krawiec.pl Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. Bespoke jackets start from zł. 5,900.

home 3F Studio ul. Nowolipki 28b, 3fstudio.com.pl Offers furnishings and lighting from top contemporary Italian brands like BB Italia, Moroso, Living Divani, Desalto and Artemide.

The in-house design team creates custom interiors for clients.

Cotton Ball Lights ul. Chmielna 27/31, cottonballlights.pl Offering 40 different varieties and colors of cotton-wrapped bulbs, these simple lights stand to transform your living space with their soft, gentle glow. Highly adaptable, and capable of slotting into any context, overhauling the whole mood of your home has never been easier…

Coqlila ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), coqlila.pl Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware.

Dado Design ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), dadodesign.pl ‘Beauty, modernity and functionality’. It’s on these foundations Dado’s philosophy is built.

Touting brands such as Bruhl, Gaber, Slide and Infiniti, this design store carries pieces chosen for their style and originality. Find it all from sofas and tables to picture frames and salt shakers. Your flat will thank you.

listings / shopping Galeria 2 Deco ul. Wilcza 71, 2deco.pl A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices. Special orders and consulting also available.

Le Pukka ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver.

Magazyn Praga ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), magazynpraga.pl A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular.

The Warsaw-themed photo montages by artist Katarzyna Osipowicz are riveting, and a surefire conversation starter.

Makutra ul. Oleandrów 5, makutra.com To know and not to cook, is not to know. This store has everything a master chef seeks: from tagines to mezzalunas, it’s got the lot covered. Huge stock of cook books and kitchenware.

Mokotowska 71 ul. Mokotowska 71, mokotowska71.pl Offering creations by Belgian and French designers, this shop just screams elegance, beauty and style.

Murano Casa Piękna 24/26A, muranocasa.pl Calling Murano Casa ‘interesting’ would be courting severe understatement. From high bling (fancy chandeliers and gob-stopping furniture) to more moderate offers (Venetian carnival masks), it’s a great place to add some pizzazz to the home. The quality of the Italian brands can’t be disputed. noon/noon ul. Pańska 98 (enter from ul. Prosta), noonnoon.pl Well-balanced as a coffee bar / showroom where you can interact and experience the functionality and quality of the furniture first hand.

Reset Point ul. Puławska 48 sklep.resetpoint.pl A treasure trove of renovated antique furniture, vinyl clocks, 70s style handle-less PRL

mugs and modern art prints of legendary landmarks such as Dworzec Centralny and the Palace of Culture. Plenty of pieces and curios from upcoming and established domestic design studios.

Secret Life (of Things) ul. Dąbrowskiego 15A, secretlife.pl An ‘eco lifestyle concept store’ full of bio-friendly scents, cosmetics, hand-made trinkets and housewares, rustic furnishings and detox teas. And it’s the multi-colored tins that greet you at the door, all of them crying out ‘drink me’. Check the prestigious porcelain by Kristoff, stock up on Madara cosmetics, or snap up a pair of handmade shoes.

SH Studio ul. Wilcza 44, s-h-studio.pl Art, interior design and furniture are married together inside a tiny store stacked with beautiful antique and retro pieces that have been refurbished and redesigned to lend them a contemporary edge. An amazing place with surprisingly modest prices.

Take a Nap ul. Mysia 3 This two floor shop is full of bedtime accessories like comfy sheets, pillows, comforters and blankets, plus fun bits of furniture that merge the modern with a country living twist. Downstairs there’s a broader selection of bed frames, couches and mattresses.

Velt ul. Próżna 12, wwvelt.pl Beautiful family-run glassware store whose pieces include the Leda lamp, awarded an honorable mention in the prestigious 2012 Red Dot Awards.

Wawa Bla Bla ul. Dobra 15 A gift store with a difference: showcasing the working of Poland’s upcoming ‘street artists’, not to mention the British proprietor’s own photos of Warsaw’s graffiti, this shop is filled with unconventional keepsakes that include canvas prints, Warsaw-themed mugs and one-of-a-kind postcards.

malls & department stores Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, tel. 22 323 6767,

arkadia.com.pl Atelier Mokotowska 63 ul. Mokotowska 63 Four levels of high end fashion, with Woolrich, Mason’s, Lardini, Boglioli, Borelli and Seventy all represented.

Intimate, discreet and above all luxurious.

Galeria KEN Center/E. Leclerc (Ursynów) ul. Ciszewskiego 15, tel. 22 389 8600, kencenter.pl Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500 klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has everything from the excellent Alma supermarket to top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, placunii.pl Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, mysia3.pl Hip department store that’s seen a few tenants come and go, yet has remained on the cutting edge in spite of it all. Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313, likusconceptstore.pl Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind. Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

Wola Park (Wola) ul. Górczewska 124, tel. 22 533-4000, open Mon-Sat 10:00-21:00; Sun 10:0020:00, wolapark.com Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. www.warsawinsider.pl

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family activities Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 41 00, open Tue-Fri 9:00-6:00; Sat-Sun 10:00-7:00, kopernik.org.pl A brilliant array of science-inspired attractions that prove as stimulating for parents as they are for the kids. Check out Galeria BZZZ, an area designated for children up to six. In order to keep numbers manageable, expect entry times to be staggered.

Fundacja Atelier ul. Foksal 11, 22 826 8813 or 22 826 9589, open Mon-Fri 10:00- 20:00, Sat 9:30-20:30, atelier.org.pl Situated in an atmospheric 19th century building this foundation organizes affordable/flexible workshops to develop and inspire art education and creative skills (painting/drawing/sculpture/art history) for children, young people and adults.

Some experts say that it’s never too early to take a child to a museum. I get the point, but I suspect that there may be gap from when a baby is curiously new to the world and when a child is really ready to take genuine interest in things on his or her own. From my experience, those times in between are a danger area when a child can become easily bored. While being very wary of not pushing my daughter into things she doesn’t want to do, and afraid that she may develop an unhealthy relationship to the things I love, it’s fun to occasionally see how she responds to things I enjoy.

Recently, I popped into the National Museum to see what was going on. Mostly, this impromptu visit happened because my daughter saw a poster outside of some angels that she thought looked beautiful. I was interested to know if she was ready to like art, so my plan was to see how much medieval art she could really take. Walking through the exhibition she immediately began to laugh and make up stories about a sad looking saint. An altarpiece from Wrocław interrupted her train of thought and she instantly started on about how she’d love to be able to make something like that. As we continued our walk she kept asking tough questions that made me realize that I’d need to be better prepared the next time I took her to view an exhibition: especially one dealing with medieval art.

Still, I managed to save face in the end: if my knowledge of gothic art isn’t up to much, then at least I can make pizza. Café Kredka is just across from the National Museum on Smolna 8, and allows kids to do the cooking, so seeing that my daughter loves this food as much as me we headed there next. All of a sudden, I can see pizza and art becoming quite a recurring theme for dad and daughter days. (KD)

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Guitar Classes Tel. 732 860 825, arekniezgoda@hotmail. com Private guitar lessons either at your place or in a private studio in Wilanów.

Classic, acoustic and electric guitar taught by Arek, a 35-year old teacher who covers most styles from classic to pop/rock. Previous work experience includes teaching in private music schools in California and at The British School of Warsaw. Both kids and adults are welcome.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl Children with excessive energy levels should head to Hangar 646. Located in a former airport hangar, the 2,700 sq/m of trampoline space includes a swimming pool of sponges.

Children from three years old are welcome

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

GROWING UP WITH ART

Gym Generation ul. Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4 (Centrum Olimpijskie, floor 4), tel. 502 092 695, gymgeneration.pl A professionally developed curriculum that offers your child a range of experiences, providing new and exciting activities each time and engaging them in physical challenges, a variety of games and team puzzles. There’s a maximum of 15 kids to a class, with one instructor for every five children.

listings / family to let off steam, with instructors available to teach acrobatics and suchlike; or you can just bounce off walls!

The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

Mums & Tots mumsandtots.pl A volunteer group for mums (and dads) of all nationalities – coffee mornings, play groups, art and music classes and nights out for parents; the list is endless.

For more details, as well as their newsletter

and schedule check their web.

Zachęta Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, tel. 22 556 9600, open Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00, zacheta.art.pl Recently undergone extensive modernization but still awaiting a café, this gallery and bookshop offer a perfect introduction to modern art. Also available are weekend workshops for children and original cultural birthday parties guided by experienced animators in a contemporary environment.

education preschools

American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educa-

tional experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool.

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listings / family pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadianschool.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The preschool offers a bilingual environment for 3-6 year olds enriched with foreign languages and extra activities. Serving the Warsaw community since 2000 all children are welcome, though available space is limited. For further info, tours and school visits call or email.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School

have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

(multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini

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The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a & ul.

Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00,

theenglishplayhouse.com The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months

listings / family to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate.

Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows

a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool.pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity

warsaw montessori school

for study, work and for daily living. Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep. edu.pl ul. Rzodkiweki 18, tel. 784 037 808, jnowak@tep.edu.pl The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. The school is a member of Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

The Canadian School of Warsaw Elementary School ul. Bełska 7, tel.

692 411 573, admission@

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting applications

for all our locations and programs: Toddler: age 1.5-2.5, Casa: age 2.5-6 Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

Opening in September 2016 "Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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listings / family canadian-school.pl, canadian-school.pl The Canadian School of Warsaw is the only authorized school in Warsaw teaching IB PYP in English. The Primary School offers bilingual education for 6-11 year olds. Highly qualified, international staff, challenging materials and a friendly atmosphere provide an optimal setting for the highest standard of education.

Extra-curricular activities include visual arts, designing classes, ceramics/pottery, art studio, music lessons (piano, guitar, choir), sports (capoeira, karate, judo, soccer, swimming, gymnastics), languages (English, Polish, French, Spanish, Italian, German) and more.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Middle School ul. Olimpijska 11, tel. 885 420 044 / 885 620 066, secretary.olimpijska@canadian-school.pl, canadian-school. pl Provides a continuation of PREIB education for 11-15 year olds. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create a perfect learning and creative thinking environment. For further info, tours and school visits call or email. Also home to the Non-Public Psycho-Pedagogical Counseling Centre ‘Olimpia’ (tel. 885 620 066) which examines the level of mental, emotional, auditory and visual-motor functions’ development, and conducts individual and group pedagogical therapy, as well as individual psychotherapy..

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International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. bimbus. com.pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta. pl The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a

gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka, ‘the essence of Parisian chic’.

Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects (from 0 to the first-owned apartment). On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands such as Quax, Lodger, Chispum, Shnuggle, Collegien, Jielde, Gubi and many more besides. It all serves to make it the No. 1 spot for your youngsters shopping.

Pieluszkarnia ul. Topiel 12, ul. Mandalińskiego 25, tel. 22 713 8275, open Mon-Fri 10:0018:00; Sat 10:00-15:00. pieluszkarnia.pl This small chain specializes in eco-friendly toys and clothing designed and produced in Poland. Products include the Lalanka dolly clothing collection, luxuriously soft reversible winter balaclavas and Martello blankets personalized for births etc.

health & beauty gyms

Artis Wellness Club ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub. pl And so here we have a contender for Warsaw’s best gym. Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. Personal training and deluxe spa facilities also available.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

SPORT: AUTUMN RUNNING PARKRUN Every Sat, 9:00 @ various locations Improve your run time by participating in the 5k Parkrun held across three locations each Saturday. Unlike the timed races you get in Warsaw, taking part in this one is free of charge. For info see: parkrun.pl HASH HOUSE HARRIERS Every couple of weeks @ various locations Billing themselves as ‘the drinking club with a running problem’, the Warsaw chapter of the Hash House Harriers meets every couple of weeks and welcomes runners and walkers of every level. Post-run drinks are part of the attraction. Search for them on Facebook for further details and await further instruction from their overlord, ‘The Witch Doctor’.

BIEGNIJ WARSAW 2 Oct, 12:00 @ ul. Czerniakowska The largest ‘fun run’ in Poland follows a ten kilometer route and is held in conjunction with the Maszeruję – Kibicuję walk. In 2009 the run was voted Warsaw’s top sporting event.

Expected to attract over 10,000 participants, registration is a must. For further info, see: biegnijwarszawo.pl WARSAW INTERNATIONAL TRIATHLON CLUB Every Tuesday, 19:00 @ PKP Powiśle Serving the needs of the athletic community, the WITC is open to all interested in the disciplines of swimming, cycling and running. Thus far, events scheduled for October are four 90-minute Tuesday night runs. For more details, check: warsawtriclub.com

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), tel.

22 851 0563, ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), tel. 22 313 1222, al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), tel. 519 436 841, www.holmesplace.pl Those who use it claim the Hilton branch is the best gym in Poland.

Set on two floors, highlights include a 25 meter pool, sauna and steam room and a spacious gym packed with the most modern www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty equipment. Also on-site, a varied timetable of classes, excellent personal trainers and a Green Coffee relaxation area. There’s two more ‘premium’ gyms to choose from, including the one in the Marriott immortalized after Obama’s recent work out there.

for Diamond Membership (includes two personal training sessions per month, a complimentary weekend at the InterContinental, restaurant discounts, etc.).

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

0 Bali Spa ul. Nowy Świat 22, bali-spa.pl Let the Balinese therapists pamper you with authentic Balinese and Thai massages, full body rituals, facials, hot stone treatments, etc. inside sensual interiors filled with the mystical spirit of the East.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Barberian Academy & Barber Shop ul. Emilii Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9 Away from the black clouds of metrosexuality, Barberian is where men gather to celebrate being men. Lauded as the local champion of male grooming, this stand out has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field.

Quantum ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Snuck to the side of a glamorous slab of residential new build, Quantum takes the keep fit business to new levels. A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience.

Bartek Janusz Salon ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, tel. 22 828 4444, www.bartekjanusz.pl The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. According to one Insider: “I’ve never left a salon feeling so happy with my hair.”

Ride Warsaw ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com Around twice a day this small studio opens up to the public with group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction with the trainer in charge.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), tel. 22 328 86 40, www.riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city. Annual prices from zł. 4,200 (access from Mon-Fri 6 a.m. to 5 p.m.), zł. 5,760 (all times), and zł. 8,350

spas & salons

104 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

BodyClinic ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, tel. 22 826 1160 or 784 677 618, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-15:00, www.bodyclinic.pl Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), tel. 22 558 1555, open Mon-Fri 9:00-20:00; Sat 9:00-17:00, www.hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

The Hermit Barber Shop

pl. Bankowy 1, thehermit.pl You know those London barber shops you see in 1930s film reels? That’s Hermit, a thrilling throwback right down to the barber’s pole and checkered flooring. But don’t be fooled, this is as upmarket as it gets, with top quality products and even some 16-year-old whisky with which to pair the experience.

La Perla multiple locations inc. Łowicka 21B/1, Wilcza 22A, Hilton Hotel, klinikalaperla.pl Here, the staff is adept and certified at a range of innovative treatments: from the non-invasive Bella Contour treatment to the Body Tite and Body Jet treatments that use the latest surgical procedures to slim and tighten. For summer the right spa/salon/clinic is key. La Perla’s all three in one!

ouch!

NEW Spas & Salons

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul.

Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch.pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8 during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4).

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, tel. 22 241 3000 or 505 828 688, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, www.pedicure-place.pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors

listings / health & beauty guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Quantum Clinic ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. For the full Hollywood treatment, restore and replenish the body at a luxury spa devised to enhance the body and mind.

Rostowski Barber Shop ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69, www.retrodayspa.pl Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Sante ul. Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. As you stare at the mantra above the mind lets go and you feel almost as if your body is moving. Amazing.

Spearside ul. Grzybowski 63, spearside.pl A male spa / salon offering massage, manicure, scrubs, physiotherapy and a range of treatments aimed at improving your ‘quality of life’. More modern-looking than the rest, hair and grooming solutions are provided by Maciej, a barber of exceptional talent.

his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

sport BGZ Arena / Velodrome ul. Andrzeja 1 (Pruszków), tel. 22 738 8394, bgzarena.com Bring a cycling helmet and you too can take a spin around the velodrome in Pruszków. Bike hire possible, with spins priced at approximately at zł. 40 per hour. For further details enquire directly.

Fly Spot Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly?? Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air.

Frogs & Co. warsawfrogs.com While it originated as an expat team, Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. The rugby is taken seriously, and so too is the social side.

Hangar 646 ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl So named due to its previous incarnation as a place where aeroplanes sleep, Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress.

Hobby Kicker Join the expat football team that meets each week (and sometimes more) on the 3G pitches at Centrum Futbolu Warszawianka (ul. Merliniego 2). All nationalities and levels of skills welcome. Search for Hobby Kicker – Warsaw on Facebook for details.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, open Mon-Fri 9:00-21:00; Sat 9:00-19:00, www. jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

Sinnet Club ul. Gołkowska 2, tel. 22 550 3400, www. sinnet.pl An exclusive members sport club featuring full-size indoor tennis courts, two external courts, three squash courts, a 25 meter swimming pool plus spa and gym facilities.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and

Squash City Al. Jerozolimskie 179 (Blue City), tel. 22 499 6466, squashcity.pl Considered one of the top squash clubs in the country, Squash

City covers an area of 1,000 sq/m, with six air-conditioned courts, shop, bar, etc.

W Pionie ul. Nowowiejska 37B, wpionie.pl An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers.

Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country, Englishspeaking available upon request.

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio ul. Gałczyńskiego 4, tel. 22 465 8810, astanga.pl Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa.

Diamond Pilates ul. Powsińska 106, tel. 22 331 4495, diamondpilates.pl The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors.

Padma Studio ul. Wilcza 32/100, tel. 22 625 1217, padmastudio.pl A 60 sq/m studio offering classes in dynamic yoga, Afro Latin dance, Samba, Tai Chi and body / mind awareness.

Pilates (Private Classes) Tel. 608 499 666 A private studio in Wilanów with classes for one to four people that guarantee 100% attention from Laura, your instructor.

Yoga Medica ul. Racławicka 28, tel. 22 409 0354, yogamedica.pl Using hatha yoga as the basis, the individualized approach to exercise comes from the founder’s background as a physiotherapist. Tailor-made programs ideal for those recovering from injury or health issues.

Yoga Republic ul. Śniadeckich 18 lok. 1, tel. 790 805 853, www.yogarepublic.pl This studio combines the old school with the new, plus a nice dash of prewar charm with a touch of the east.

Yoga Republic offers classes for pregnant women in addition to a full schedule of four other types of yoga to suit experience and expectations (Mysore, Ashtanga, Vinyasa and Beginner’s). www.warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

As Warsaw turns from green to gold, follow the Insider for your true taste of Warsaw. For your daily dose of hot city happenings, join us on Instagram and discover the hidden side of the Polish capital.

106 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

4-Star Hotels

Airport Hotel Okęcie ul. 17-ego Stycznia 24, tel. 22 456 8000, www.airporthotel.com.pl Hampton by Hilton ul. Wspólna 72, tel. 22 317 2700, hamptoninn3.hilton.com Radisson Blu Sobieski pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, www.sobieski.com.pl Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, www.mercure.com Mercure Grand Warszawa ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, www.mercure.com Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport) ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, www.warszawacourtyard.pl Novotel Warszawa Centrum ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel. 22 596 0000, www.novotel.com, www.accorhotels.com Polonia Palace Hotel Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, www.poloniapalace.com Warsaw Plaza Hotel ul. Łączyny 5, tel. 885 886 100, www. warsawplazahotel.pl

apartments

InterContinental ul. Emili Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www. warsaw.intercontinental.com Long and short stay apartments provided by the hotel of the same name. Perks included are the same as those received by hotel guests: i.e. access to the top floor pool, room service, maid service etc.

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu Boutique B&B ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, www.bedandbreakfast.pl Chmielna Guesthouse ul. Chmielna 13, tel. 22 828 1282, www.chmielnabb.pl

car rental Avis tel. 22 572 6565, Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, www.avis.pl Hertz Rent a Car Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel.

22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul.

Nowogrodzka 27 (D5), tel. 22 621 1360.

Sixt Rent a Car ul. Arabska 9, tel. 22 511 1550, 22 511 1555, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2031, www.sixt.pl

useful numbers Foreign Assistance Tel. 608 599 999 / 22 278 7777 Information in English, German and Russian available from June 1st to September 30th from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. seven days a week.

Tourist Information ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1 (airport), Rynek Starego Miasto 19/21/21A, Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), tel.

22 194 31, warsawtour.pl

RESIDENTS relocation companies

MaMaison Residence Diana ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 9100, www.mamaison.com/diana A beautiful city center location from the same team behind Le Regina. Short and long term stays.

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, tel. 22 878 3539, www.expressrelocations.com

B&B

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / in the city AGS Warsaw ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, tel. 22 702 1072, www.agsmovers.com CorstJens Worldwide Movers Group ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, tel. 22 737 7200, www.corstjens.com DuX Consulting Agency ul. Panieńska 9/28, tel. 22 670 4280 or 502 216 606 www.duxconsulting.com.pl Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, Piaseczno, tel. 22 716 5566, www.euromove.pl

services Domestina domestina.pl New to Warsaw, Domestina offer four-hour maid solutions ranging from zł. 129-142. Offering full premium service, they’ll make your bed to match the standard of a five-star hotel, and clean every corner till your flat is spotless!

storage Wiecej Miejsca Tel. 733 002 014,

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

wiecejmiejsca.pl A new storage service that will even go so far as to pick up your items for you and transporting them to their guarded warehouse.

They’ll also the supply the storage bins which typically fit 90 books, 100 t-shirts, 25 jumpers. Larger items like bikes, suitcases can also be left with them.

polish for foreigners Cup of Polish cupofpolish.com, tel. 508 700 508 Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs.

Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com

community Anglican Church in Warsaw ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 62, tel.

880 580 628, anglicanchurch.pl English language services follow the order of the services of the Anglican Communion and are conducted by Rev. David Brown. Services are held each Sunday at 10:30 and 16:00.

International Christian Fellowship ul. Puławska 326, icfwarsaw.org Interdenominational services in English (10:30am, Sunday). Facilities, programs and community activities for all ages: children, students and adults.

InterNations www.internations.org Drawing professionals from home and abroad the mission of InterNations is to bring together ‘global minds’. Now an established part of Warsaw’s social and corporate circuit, their monthly meetings have become Must Do events on schedules round town.

International Women’s Group of Warsaw iwgwarsaw.eu Unites expat women in Warsaw and offers cultural, educational and recreational activities. Meetings are held on the second and fourth Monday of the month.

Get 12 issues for the price of 6 (60 zł) WARSAWPASS & CHOPINPASS Valid for 24, 48 and 72-hour periods, the Warsaw Pass enables holders to hop on and off a bus ploughing the main tourist routes, as well as free entry (and the ability to ‘skip the line’) to numerous attractions including Polin, the PKiN viewing platform, Royal Castle, Copernicus Science Centre and many more besides. Discounts for tours and restaurants are also part of the package.

For full details, see: warsawpass.com

SUBSCRIBE AND SAVE! Email: insider@warsawinsider.pl

108 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

Also, be sure to pick up the ChopinPASS, a package that includes admission to the Chopin Museum and to the birthplace of Fryderyk Chopin in Żelazowa Wola, as well as direct transportation between these two institutions. For details, see: ChopinPass.com

listings / in the city museums

Professionals in Warsaw meetup.com/Professionals-in-Warsaw New to town? There’s few better ways to give your social life a jump start than popping along to one of the informal drinks mixers conducted by Professionals in Warsaw.

Natives and foreigners of all backgrounds and professions are welcomed – all you have to do is buy your own drinks. Search for them on facebook.

Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co Part of this dedicated amber shop has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber.

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

St. Patrick’s Foundation www.irishball.pl The Irish Ball, held on the Saturday closest to St. Patrick’s Day, is legendary in Warsaw as the biggest of the balls. It’s the main annual fund-raiser of the foundation, which distributes the funds raised to various charities over the course of the year.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Taste of the Classics www.fnok.pl A Taste of the Classics is a classical music, fine art and dinner entertainment, held regularly in prime locations. The events alternate between formal and semi-formal dress and are held in English. Attendance is by invitation and includes dinner and wine.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Toastmasters International www.toastmasters.org.pl Toastmasters is the international organization for improving public speaking and presentation skills. The local club meets every Wednesday at 19.00.

Guests are always welcome without any obligation apart from a short introduction.

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Glucha, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life

through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers. A must see!

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city during the dark nights of Communism.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

Don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

Invites you to experience a panoramic tour of tourist attractions of the capital of Poland, Warsaw, in a relaxing and comfortable way.

Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

5% DISCOUNT with this ad

Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

+48 500 033 414

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Wielkanoc pełna smaku!

Wyśmienity smak żurku z grzybami i białą kiełbasą, pasztet z dziczyzny z konfiturą z cebuli i rodzynek, drożdżowe baby i mazurki...

Wielkanoc - niech twoje święta będą pełne smaku.

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Zapraszamy do składania zamówień świątecznych: CENTRUM: ul. Żurawia 47/49, Warszawa, tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68, godziny otwarcia: 7:00 - 22:00 ŻOLIBORZ: ul.Felińskiego 52, Warszawa, tel. +48 608 046 406, godziny otwarcia: 9:00 - 20:00 www.smakiwarszawy.pl

The Bird Lady of Piwna

Of the stories connected with the immediate post-war years, it is that of the Piwna Pigeon Lady that is one of the most touching… BY STUART DOWELL

O

n a recent trip to Poznań, I stayed in the Jeżyce district.

I was delighted by the vibrancy of life on display with students and young creatives sharing space with the older, blue-collar residents; homebound office workers buying groceries at the market square manoeuvred around drunks, while men hung around smoking cigarettes anticipating that night’s televised football match.

The richness of the district’s architecture left a heavy imprint on me. Older, wooden frame buildings sit alongside elegant, late nineteenth century apartment houses with richly decorated facades crowned with elaborate metal domes. Although often in states of neglect, the streets laid bare patterns of development and periods of history in a natural way. I felt needles of regret pricking at my mind when I compared it to Warsaw: “Poznań is so much more authentic,” I told myself, as I thought of the post-war template imposed by planners that covers much of Warsaw.

112 Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2016

Nowhere in Warsaw is charged with inauthenticity more than the Old Town. Stripped back in its post-war reconstruction to its medieval bones to remove any trace of the then despised bourgeoisie, the area has often been dismissed as being nothing more than a lifeless museum. Yet the rebuilding allowed the lives of some of the twentieth century residents to be immortalised.

Perhaps the best example of this legacy is the story of the Pigeon Lady of Piwna Street.

Before the war, Kazimiera Majchrzak each day after finishing work in PKO would buy 5kg of grain and feed the flocks of pigeons on Pl. Zamkowy. She soon became a familiar sight and was dubbed Gołębiarka, or the Pigeon Lady. When the war began, and Poland came under German occupation, her commitment to feeding the doves didn’t waver, although she had to gradually sell off her valuables to maintain a good stock of feed.

Father Bronisław Bozowski, who lived for a long time as part of an order at the Church of the Visitationists on Krakowskie Przedmieście, claimed that she lost two sons in the Warsaw Uprising. She was one of the first people to return to the devastated capital after the Red Army took the city in January 1945. She immediately set about feeding the hungry birds and, so claimed the priest, saw the souls of her two dead sons in one particular pair of pigeons. Each day she would go out to feed her sons, talk to them about her troubles and make sure they had enough to eat. In 1947, she was forced to leave her home at Piwna 6 and died shortly after. However, she wasn’t forgotten, and when the building was restored, a relief representing Majchrzak’s sons (depicted as pigeons themselves) feeding a flock of pigeons was set above the entry portal. So while the Old Town may not be as authentic as many parts of Poland, it is full of magical symbols that with bitter charm tell of the hopes, tears, lives and deaths of the people who once lived there.

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

LOOKING BACK

QUANTUM, ul. Piękna 15, warszawa, +48 88 55 80 053, www.quantumpiekna.pl