Warsaw Insider June 2017 #250

MILESTONE ISSUE

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

JUNE 2017

250 06/2017

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

#

Moving? zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER ANYA HINDMARCH ALEXANDRE BIRMAN AQUAZZURA ANYA HINDMARCH BALMAIN AQUAZZURA BUSCEMI BALMAIN CASADEI BUSCEMI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CASADEI FRANCESCO RUSSO CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN GIANVITO ROSSI FRANCESCO HERVE RUSSO LEGER GIANVITO ROSSI ISABEL MARANT HERVE KENZO LEGER ISABEL MARANT KOTUR KENZO MAISON MICHEL KOTUR ONE TEASPOON MAISON MICHEL SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S ONE TEASPOON BURCH SELFTORY – PORTRAIT VALENTINO TOD’S VICTORIA BECKHAM TORY BURCH YVESVALENTINO SALOMON

VICTORIA BECKHAM YVES SALOMON

Moliera 2 tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

JUNE 2017 Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

as is the country’s prerogative, we skipped spring to crash straight into summer. With little or no hanging about, as soon as the gloves were in the box, out came the shades. It’s not the first time the nation has cheated us out of a spring, but hey, it’s a short-cut we’ve learned to live with. The equivalent of roaring from zero to sixty in the space of a second, the sympathetic weather has meant that Warsaw has already had a good glimpse of what summer will bring: and boy, does it look special. But so too does this issue: in celebration of our 250th birthday, we’ve rustled up an A to Z of Warsaw, rounding up all the fads and phenomena that have transformed the city. Elsewhere, we’ve explored the historic center’s hidden history, been left puzzled by a Dali / Warhold exhibition and picked out the architectural projects the city’s been whispering about. Hope you enjoy it, and till next time – adios!

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

INFRONT

REVIEWS

FEATURES

PARTNER NEWS

Opener 9 Architecture 10 Culture 12

Art Review: Dali/Warhol 14 Neighborhood Prowl: Old Town 16 Warsaw A to Z 20

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Kho Phangan 31 Warszawski Sznyt 32 El Barrio 34 Palmier 36 The Latest Marketpalce News From The Warsaw Insider’s Friends and Advertisers 39

LISTINGS

Restaurants 42 Cafes & Wine Bars 72 Nightlife 77 Shopping 86 Family 90 Health & Beauty 95 In the City 97

INBACK

Map 102 Looking Back 104

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com Business Development Manager A. Julita Pryzmont jpryzmont@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Piotr Pawłowski ppawlowski@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69 VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies.

All information ©2017 Warsaw Insider.

on the cover Our cover artist pays homage in honor of our 250th birthday!

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

GOOD WORK POLAND:

CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI MEN KENZO MONCLER ONE TEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO VICTORIA BECKHAM BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

this month...

ENTERTAINMENT

Comic Con

1-4 June @ Ptak Warsaw Expo, Al. Katowicka 62 Warsaw’s first comic festival goes beyond the obvious. Attractions include a science zone, gaming alley, and a Lego world. Stars booked to appear include Charles Dance, Teen Wolf’s Melissa Ponzio and Carice Van Houten from Game of Thrones.

SPORT

2-3 June @ Służewiec, ul. Puławska 266 Warsaw’s biggest music festival has an array of acts booked to perform, among them Kings of Leon, Imagine Dragons, Kodaline and Justice.

9 June @ Legia Stadium, ul. Łazienkowska 3 The likes of Fernando Morientes, Christian Karembeu and Gaizka Mendieta will play an all-star Polish XI featuring Jerzy Dudek and Marek Saganowski.

Tickets from zł. 109-399 @ orangewarsawfestival.pl

Tickets from zł. 60 @ laligalegendspoland.pl

3 June @ National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1 The largest event of its kind in Europe, the annual Science Picnic features over 200 exhibitors from 16 countries and will this year explore themes related to planet Earth. Entry is free.

PARTY

Equality Parade 3 June @ various streets Starting at 4 p.m. close to Rondo Centrum, Poland’s largest LGBT parade will eventually wind its way up to the Palace of Culture – after, expect an post-party that will last till the early hours.

CONCERT

Coldplay 18 June @ National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1 Record sales of over 80 million say all you need to know about this powerhouse act. They’re in Poland as part of their vast five continent A Head Full of Dreams tour.

Remaining tickets zł. 449 @ eventim.pl

EVENT

Wianki nad Wisłą 24 June @ Park Podzamcze (Multimedia Fountains) Details were unclear at press time, but past experience suggests midsummer will be celebrated with loads of concerts, firework displays, etc., etc.

For info, see: paradarownosci.eu

FESTIVAL

ENVIRONMENT

24 June-2 July @ various locations The festival showcases abstract, often brilliant, street theater plays courtesy of troupes from across Europe. The festival aims to integrate art with the everyday landscape of the city, and as such you can expect events to take place in parks, metro stations and other public spaces.

4 June @ Pole Mokotowskie An open-air environmental get together featuring NGO stalls, a recycling zone (trade your crap for a plant!), and workshops which will allow you to disassemble computers and then make Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2017

La Liga Legends

For details, see: pikniknaukowy.pl

Earth Day

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Summer Cinema

MUSIC

Science Picnic

24 June, 6 p.m. @ Warszawa Centrum fb.com/ZombieWalkWarszawa

FILM

Tickets from zł. 25-150 @ warsawcomiccon.pl

FAMILY

Going strong since 2007, this June event draws fancifully dressed monsters from far and wide. Starting at 6 p.m. (sharp!), the zombie walk will work its way from the center to the Royal Castle.

For details, see: dzienziemi.org.pl

8 June onwards @ Pl. Europejski Held each Thursday at 9 p.m., summer screenings of European classics will be held in the shadow of the Warsaw Spire. Sun loungers, drinks and outdoor cinema: not a bad idea.

Warsaw Orange Festival

Editor’s Pick Zombie Walk

jewelry from cables...

Street Art Festival

For info, see: sztukaulicy.pl

RICO’S CONCEPT is situated in a famous tenement house called the ‘Messal Baths’.

The name stems from Lucyna Messal, a famous opera singer, dancer and actress from the 1920s.

An incredible atmosphere is guaranteed thanks to an interior filled with meticulous old details. Most important of all, however, is our seasonal cuisine which is based on the highest quality produce.

Our secret is experience, passion and innovation...

Krakowskie Przedmieście 16/18

Tel: 22 515 8405

in

What’s hot, what’s not: the faces and stories trending around town OPOLE FESTIVAL IN NUMBERS

10,000,000 Złoty

The rumored cost of organizing the festival

47,900 Złoty

The rumored peak cost of running a 30-second ad during the festival

3,653 The number

Of seats at the Opole concert venue

1963 The year

The festival was founded

1982

PHOTOGRAPH PIOTR PORĘBSKI

STOP THE MUSIC!

A prestigious music festival has been canceled after a number of artists scheduled to perform pulled out amid allegations of state interference.

Founded in 1963, the National Festival of Polish Song in Opole has long been regarded as one of the most important cultural events in the country. However, up to 40 performers chose to boycott the upcoming edition after rumors began circulating that Kayah, a songstress firmly established as Polish pop royalty, had been blocked from appearing due to her anti-government views. TVP, the state broadcaster, have firmly denied this and have announced their intention to sue a number of publishers for reporting such.

Matters appeared to have reached a climax when headliner Maryla Rodowicz confirmed she would not perform. With a raft of other entertainers also backing out, the Mayor of Opole, Arkadiusz Wiśniewski, issued a statement that the city’s contract with TVP had been terminated. The storm, however, has only grown fiercer. Jacek Kurski, the head of TVP, has accused Wiśniewski of disgracing himself, while also promising to simply move the event elsewhere – at press time, Kielce was being touted as the most likely alternative. But with musicians closing ranks and demonstrating solidarity with each other, this could prove to be more difficult than imagined. For the time being, expect the scandal to rumble on.

The only time

The festival has been previously canceled

102

The number

of artists that performed at the first festival

53

The number

of festivals held previously

15

The number

of concerts performed at the first festival

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inFront

news

THE GREAT OUTDOORS

Two projects – one that’s happening, one that’s happened – have had locals talking these past few weeks...

SWINGS & ROUNDABOUTS News of an epic new playground set in the grounds of Park Ujazdowski has left kids across the city buzzing with anticipation.

Costing zł. 3.6 million, the project will include tunnels, towers, bridges and water features and is set to be funded by ZOM – the municipal department charged with the upkeep of Warsaw’s green spaces.

There is a catch, however: with construction set to last several months, the self-styled ‘dream playground’ won’t be launched until well after summer.

A temporary ‘reading room’ erected on the Wisła caused a splash after making its debut last month. Commissioned as part of May’s Apostrof Literature Festival, the captivating design was the work of Jan Strumiłło: “I decided the hut should be wooden, with a pleasant woody smell inside,” says the architect. “We purposefully gave it a tall, pointed roof to make the proportions a little odd, intriguing and off-standard.” Entered via a tiny, narrow door, the intention was to stir sentimental feelings of entering ‘secret rooms’. For more on the architect and his work, see: janstrumillo.pl

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PRESS MATERIAL

THE READING ROOM

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style�: class 5, marbling 9+. ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

inFront

culture

NIGHT OF THE MUSEUMS

The 14th installment of the annual Night of Museums proved another resounding success, with in excess of 200,000 people filing through 233 museums, galleries and other assorted venues. Of the highlights, none aroused as much excitement as the long-awaited preview of the Museum of Warsaw (which will finally open for real just as we hit newsstands at the end of May). As usual, though, some of the biggest queues were reserved for institutions usually off-limits to the public – the Wedel Chocolate Factory, for instance, reported the first lines beginning to build as early as 6 a.m. Neither was this year without its scandals: pictures have since surfaced of one group of political protesters lined-up in t-shirts calling for an end to the ruling PiS party during their visit to the Council of Ministers.

Though seemingly innocuous, news of this protest has gone viral across Poland.

CHOPIN MUSEUM

850

RISING MUSEUM

4,000

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTER

6,340 NATIONAL MUSEUM

4,145

13,210 (all branches)

ZACHĘTA

(pictured)

3,000

*

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amount of vistors during Night of the Museums

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF POLIN

POLIN

ART REVIEW

Dali vs Warhol

Two greats under one roof – but is the Palace of Culture’s latest exhibition a hit or a miss?

O

pened in April, and set to run until October 7th, the idea of bringing together the works of Salvador Dali and Andy Warhol to form one exhibition sounds too good to be true – and so it proves. That the pair are among the most iconic and influential artists of the 21st century isn’t for discussion, unfortunately, some will say this exhibition fails to do either justice.

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Over 120 original works have been sourced, many of which find themselves on display to the public for the first time ever. So far so good.

Alas, with written explanations largely lacking, to fully understand the artists and their works visitors are forced into donning greasy headphones that deliver a running commentary – but if the idea is to provide a fully immersive experience, it fails. While golden nuggets of info are relayed on occasion (for instance, the story behind the pair’s first meeting), too often these are out-of-sync with whatever is in front. It’s possible to skip around to find the relevant segment of commentary, but doing so requires a considerable feat of mental dexterity. Frustration mounts.

Quite why organizers have opted against standard written blurbs is a mystery, but clearly unconnected to a lack of funds. Priced at zł. 45 for a single adult pass, tickets are so steep that you’re entitled to expect a seamless experience that will broaden your knowledge and illuminate the day. As it turns out, this is a far-fetched expectation. True, the exhibition does have its moments. The numerous record covers that Warhol produced are a joy to behold. Likewise, previously unseen sketches by Dali are something of a revelation. There’s amusing quirks as well, not least a collection of wigs depicting the changing hairstyles of our two protagonists.

While some will leave feeling that the exhibition is an opportunity missed, a visit is by no means dissuaded – the majority exit having fully enjoyed it. But here’s the point: any exhibition that pits these two greats against each other should never get anything less than unanimous approval. That this one doesn’t says all you need to know.

Dali Kontra Warhol Pl. Defilad 1 (PKiN), dalikontrawarhol.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS ED WIGHT

Over 120 original works have been sourced, many of which find themselves on display to the public for the first time ever

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NEIGHBORHOOD PROWL OLD TOWN

Clockwise from top: no-man’s land between Cud Nad Wisłą and Pomost 511; Mamma Mia! Sen Pszczoły goes nuts for Abba; BarKa warms up; Gringo keeps the

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HIDDEN HISTORY It’s been a hard-knock life for Warsaw’s historic center; left devastated after WWII, the subsequent rebuild still causes some to sniff and declare it as being little more than an artificial substitute. But to do so should be a crime, for aside of its more obvious glories, it’s a section of the town that’s brimming with secrets, stories and its share of superstitions...

PIWNA 6 (opposite) Post-war embellishments to the Old Town are copious in number, though few share the poignant background of Piwna 6. Once the home of Kazimiera Majchrzak, her daily ritual before the outbreak of WWII involved feeding the local pigeons with five kilos of grain. Despite the obvious hardships involved, she continued this practice throughout much of Warsaw’s occupation. Exiled during the ‘44 Uprising, she later returned to live in the ruins where she proceeded to once again feed the birds. Having lost two sons during the war, she often claimed to see their spirits in a particular pair of birds. After she passed away in 1947, the decision was taken to commemorate her by adding a relief above the entrance: fittingly, it depicts her sons feeding a flock of pigeons.

paper kiosk, it was completed in 1843 and served as a tobacco store. From here, Karol Banasch sold tobacco imported from Constantinople as well as exotic cheroots from Cuba and Mexico. Felicjan Cywiński continued this tradition, often rewarding his regulars with a complimentary glass of wine. Such was the buzz about the place, it became a gathering point for anti-Tsarist nationalists looking to covertly drop and exchange information during the 1831 Uprising. Less than half a century on, a new owner scandalized the city – not to mention the adjacent church – when he added pornographic pictures from Paris to the store’s repertoire. With this in mind, could this even be regarded as Warsaw’s first sex shop?

DŁUGA 1 (below)

It’s for good reason that Warsaw remembers King Zygmunt III Vasa, after all it was he who made the city the capital in 1596. Originally erected in 1644, the column

In terms of square meters, the newspaper kiosk on Długa 1 ranks as the smallest house in Warsaw. Now a news-

ZYGMUNT’S COLUMN (below)

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NEIGHBORHOOD PROWL OLD TOWN

dedicated to his memory is on occasion cited as Europe’s first secular monument. Less disputed is its reputation as the city’s lucky charm: so it’s said, should Zygmunt drop the sword he wields, then the city will face disaster. Wouldn’t you know it, that’s exactly what happened when a Nazi tank shell took out the column in 1944: the annihilation of the city followed soon after. Now, chunks of the original column can be found lying to the side of the Royal Castle. According to one superstition, touching the broken column guarantees you’ll revisit Warsaw.

BEAR STATUE (above)

The historic center is certainly partial to a bear statue or four; largely overlooked, the bronze circus animal at Wójtowska 11 has been perched on top of a drinking fountain since 1999. While no-one can conclusively tell you why he’s there, fans of Legia speculate that he’s been purposefully positioned to waggle his derriere at their nearby rivals, Polonia Warszawa. Of the more sensible suggestions, some locals think the amiable mammal is a hat tip to the Fifth World Festival of Youth & Students. Held in Warsaw in 1955, the event’s entertainment program included performing bears being paraded through the historic center.

BRANICKI PALACE MONKEY (above right)

Just about the quirkiest story you’ll ever hear about Warsaw concerns the fist bumping, banana clenching monkey sat on the corner of the roof of the Branicki Palace (Miodowa 6). With the palace originally built in the 18th century (at a time when monkeys were widely regarded

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2017

to be simple, idiotic creatures), for years historians were baffled by the presence of the primate – who in their right mind would commission such a work? The answer is, well, no-one. Largely destroyed during WWII, the palace was faithfully reconstructed based on the paintings of Bernardo Bellotto (a.k.a Canaletto). Though the specifics vary, it’s generally agreed that Bellotto secretly added the ape to his painting as a wily way of gaining revenge: there are those who say the owner of the Branicki Palace had reneged on a deal with Bellotto; others claim that the artist simply had a strong dislike of the lady whose statue actually appeared on this spot. Either way, the last laugh belonged to Bellotto.

KING’S WALKWAY (opposite)

On November 15th, 1620, King Zymunt III Vasa set off as normal from the Royal Castle intending to make the short stroll to St. John’s Cathedral. Michał Piekarski, a nobleman with a history of mental illness, had other ideas, and ambushed the King on ul. Świętojańska striking him twice with a war hammer. Ziggy survived the botched assassination, and Piekarski was swiftly dealt with in the most gruesome way possible: having endured a sustained bout of torture, he was carted off to what is now ul. Piekarska where his limbs were tied to four horses and then ripped from his body. His corpse was then burned and the ashes blasted from a canon. Wisely somewhat, the King chose to ensure no such event would be repeated and ordered that a covered walkway be built connecting the castle to the cathedral – to this day the overhead passage spans ul. Kanonia.

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When the Insider first rolled out from the printing press 250 issues ago, Warsaw was a very different city: dark and depressing in many respects, vibrant and chaotic in others, if nothing else it was utterly different from the capital of today. What happened in between? We rewind the clock to look at the trends and events, the people and the places that shaped the city into what we have now...

to

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A

rtisan

B

ig Four

The backlash against mass-production has grown globally, and Warsaw has proved every bit as keen to jump on this trend and flaunt instead its artisan credentials. Attaching importance to provenance and creativity, a raft of new generation, independent businesses are embracing artisanal techniques and applying innovative craft touches to a range of industries: from brewing and baking to design and manufacture. At last, quality is being celebrated over quantity and long may it continue.

It’s not just economic indicators that should be used to chart a city’s development.

In cultural terms, Warsaw has flourished with several institutions now offering a truly world class experience. In recent years sightseeing agendas have been dominated by The Big Four (Polin, The Rising Museum, Copernicus Science Center and the Chopin Museum), and that number looks likely to be increased with the opening of the Museum of Warsaw.

C

entral Business District

Once a dystopian wasteland of ailing factories and abandoned plots, vast swathes of Wola are being repackaged to form the CBD of the future. The Warsaw Spire has come to symbolize the area’s revival, but the story is by no means over – more changes are afoot, among them the construction of the EU’s tallest skyscraper.

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A Z WARSAW to

D

emolition

To hell with history – if there’s a quick buck to be made then the city has demonstrated it has no qualms with demolishing its heritage to make way for a residential compound or a corporate high-rise. Pearls of the PRL period have been particularly vulnerable, with high profile casualties including the SuperSam supermarket, the iconic Kino Moskva, the CEDET department store and the PKO Rotunda. Buildings from the 90s have also found themselves increasingly under threat. Yet despite their often gaudy appearance, a small but growing number of people are clamoring to protect these garish carbuncles, citing them as an architectural reminder of the wild and crazy post-communist transition.

E

U Accession

May 1st, 2004, was the day everything changed. Although eight other countries also found themselves drafted into the EU on this date, Poland was by far the most significant recruit. Ever since, PL has reaped massive fiscal benefits which have made it one of the fastest growing economies in Europe. Yet despite the subsequent success of Poland’s EU integration, at the time celebrations marking European accession were strangely muted.

With the World Economic Forum being held in Warsaw that same week, much of the city went into lockdown and temporary exile: barricaded storefronts, empty streets and police riot vans were the lingering, spooky memory of the capital’s first day as an EU city. An omen, perhaps?

F

ood Revolution

Eating out in Warsaw was once a lethal pursuit – in some cases, literally (e.g. the 1999 mafia hit outside TGI Friday’s). And if the mobsters didn’t maim you, then some of the chefs would.

Now the world of diabolical cooking has been traded for Michelin stars, celebrity chefs, global trends and local produce.

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G

entrification

Where artists gather, businessmen will follow. Certainly, this sequence has been played out in Warsaw. Pl. Grzybowski is a case in point: once a crucible of creativity, legendary institutions such as the Jewish Theater and Pardon To Tu have been forced out, and the spiritual gap filled by swanky offices, luxury condos and polished bistros populated by off-duty lawyers. While change is unavoidable and often for the greater good, Warsaw needs to strive to find a better balance.

H

ipster

I

Officially declared dead in 2015 (replaced, instead, by the Young Urban Creative), it’s hard to think of a recent sub-culture more despised and derided than the hipster phenomenon. But despite the irritating fashions and complacent sense of self-worth, you’ve got to hand it to this lot – without them, life would be a whole lot worse. Who was it that fueled the appetite for things like vegan sushi, mango donuts, street food fairs and craft beer? Crikey, blokes couldn’t even get a proper wet shave before the hipsters came along. At the least, we owe them a statue – preferably on Zbawiciela (famously once known as Pl. Hipstera).

ndependence Day

How do most countries celebrate their independence?

The popular answer is with a marching band and firework display. Warsaw does it with a riot. True, things have chilled considerably the last couple of years, though that’s largely down to amped-up police tactics. Since 2008 nationalist organizations have converged on Warsaw on Nov 11th, with many of the parades concluding in violence. A nadir was hit in 2013 when masked hooligans besieged a squat, set fire to Zbawiciela’s rainbow installation and launched a prolonged attack on the Russian Embassy.

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ewish Resurgence

It’s a tribute to the indomitable human spirit that, despite their tenacious efforts, the Nazis failed to completely extinguish Jewish life. Rising local interest plus surging visitor numbers have resulted in the reemergence of a small but extremely active and dynamic community. The Polin Museum, Tel Aviv restaurant and the Jewish Community Centre have been central to this, as have the efforts of Michael Schudrich, Poland’s charismatic chief rabbi.

The success of annual events such as Daffodil Day and the Singer Festival have served only to strengthen Jewish-Polish ties.

K

eret

House“I saw a gap between a pre-war tenement and a

L

70s co-op block,” says architect Jakub Szczęsny, “and thought it was a fantastic representation of the Frankenstein nature of Warsaw. Well, I wanted to fill that space, to make those two buildings communicate and relate to each other. How? By adding life to that gap.” Measuring just 71 centimeters at its narrowest, what sprung up is the world’s skinniest house.

Named in honor of author Etgar Keret, the building’s patron, the house has become emblematic of Warsaw’s alternative way of thinking.

emmingrad

Christened Lemingrad by critics, the Miasteczko Wilanów residential development has faced scorn aplenty from those who view it as a nouveau riche bubble of cocky thirty-something liberals. But that’s worked in the area’s favor, giving the residents a point to prove and creating an active community that’s open-minded and international.

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M

urals

Once stone-faced and deathly silent, the walls of Warsaw have found their voice and are channeling the thoughts of the wider community through the medium of art. Brimming with cerebral meaning, mammoth works of wall art have been splashed onto the sides of buildings, transforming gray swathes of the city into a riot of color. While particularly prominent in gritty, grungy Praga, these murals have also appeared in other parts: the arched corridors of Muranów have been a favored target, and so too Mokotów. Even middle-class Żoliborz hasn’t escaped, with David Bowie’s fleeting Warsaw visit now immortalized in paint.

N

O

ld Warsaw’s Regeneration One of the more pleasant side-effects of gentrification has been the renovation and regeneration of knackered old streets and dilapidated landmarks. Hala Koszyki is naturally hailed as the most succesful example of this, though other pre-war leftovers have fared just as well: Próżna, Soho Factory, not to mention considerable sections of South Central Warsaw. Once dark and sinister, to see places that once simmered with menace morph into lively social hubs has been a thrill.

eon

Used by the communists as a way of reconciling socialism with consumerism, the old style neons of PRL Poland cast a rare, heady light over the grey, pessimistic post-war capital.

Now neon is back and brighter than ever. The Neon Museum is internationally known, while a personalized neon sign has become the true hallmark of a trendy new business.

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hotography

With our iPhones and Instagram accounts we’ve all become photographers – just not very good ones. Leagues ahead of us are the professionals, those that have dedicated their lives to searching out bold new angles for that definitive shot. Famed for their birds-eye view of Warsaw, both Blogusz and Maciej Margas (author of the Warsaw On Air book and exhibition) have redrawn the battle lines with their stunning perspectives. Find their work at: warsawgiftshop.com

Q

ueer Warsaw

D espite prevailing conservative attitudes, Warsaw has developed a small but energetic queer scene.

Though now defunct, Le Madame was an imaginative cauldron of alternative styles, while Utopia probably the first truly elite club the city had seen; together, their influence and ideas extend to this day, now repeated and replicated by a number of venues. Still going strong and never far from controversy, the annual Equality Parade is recognized as one of the country’s top street parties.

R

ainbow

Public art has helped express Warsaw’s creative streak: we’ve seen plastic palm trees, giant inflatable bears, outsized paper boats and numerous other wacky works. Though some survive, others have died. Of the latter, none were as divisive as the rainbow on Zbawiciela. Torched and vandalized numerous times for its liberal message, it was finally disassembled in 2015. First erected in 2011, its brief lifespan coincided with Zbawiciela’s hedonistic heyday.

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S

mog

For all of City Hall’s green propaganda, Warsaw finds itself combating a major smog crisis – such is the standard of air quality, it’s said that the average resident sucks in the equivalent of 1,000 cigarettes per year. Having achieved so much since the political ‘transformation’ of ‘89, the city needs to take positive action if it’s to avoid being labeled a fully-fledged health hazard. Whether it does so or not is the million dollar question.

T

rends

Ingenuity. Originality. Individuality – how Warsaw loves them. Alas, it loves all three so much that the moment someone executes a cool idea or a fresh new look everyone else follows and does exactly the same: cue mass saturation. We’ve seen it in everything from fashion (remember red trousers?) to design (subway tiles, communal tables, LED light bulbs, etc., etc.). Most of all though, we’ve seen it in food – surely nothing will ever come close to competing with the burger nightmare that once smothered Warsaw.

U

rban Markets

A consequence of many of the phenomena that have already been listed, the urban market has thrived and prospered.

Assuming many guises, Warsaw has welcomed everything from hipster-ish yard sales (e.g. Mustache) to artisan food markets (Bazar Olkuska, Forteca, Bio Bazar and so forth). The source of excellent produce and prized, little finds, the city is all the better for them. We haven’t even seen the tip of the iceberg.

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A Z WARSAW

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eturilo

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Now in its fifth year, the city’s Veturilo initiative has been a roaring success with over 20,000 daily users making it Europe’s fifth largest bike-share program. The sheer pace of this two-wheeled revolution has confounded many, not least when considering the number of problems cyclists still face: choking smog, extreme weather, treacherous traffic and assorted obstacles (potholes, badly parked cars and zig zagging pedestrians). Nonetheless, Warsaw has enthusiastically grabbed cycle culture by the handlebars and with more and more paths being built, this can only continue to grow.

isła

What a turnaround. Old-timers will recall a time when the riverside was absolutely poisonous in spirit: of its many lows, the discovery of a decapitated head just about eclipses the time a laughing mob of Legia lads chucked a Japanese tourist into the murky waters. But the last few years have seen the Wisla completely reinvented and, in the process, become one of the capital’s true calling cards.

Come summer, nowhere parties harder in the city. Neither is it just for those who want to cut loose and go bonkers. When it comes to dealing with boredom, the introduction of broad cycle paths, food truck points, viewing platforms, pop-up stalls and varying artsy attractions have made it a 24hr catch-all solution.

XXX

Rated!

Were you to teleport back in time – even just fifteen years – you’d be uncovering a raunchy city with a raw, sleazy soul. With its moral compass temporarily disabled, the ‘adult entertainment’ scene flourished out in the open: mud wrestling nights at city center strip clubs; peep shows in hastily converted buses; and brothels of every size and quality on practically every corner. More sanitized and homogeneous than ever, there are some (usually misty-eyed male expats) who lament that Warsaw’s lost its spirit.

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ouTube

Warsaw still struggles in terms of global PR: for those that have never been, the vision o f an Orwellian city still often holds firm. Piece by piece, YouTube has been an effective weapon against this, with videos such as WARSAW 24H timelapse doing much to cause a rethink. Then, there’s the work of SA Wardega, a serial prankster known for viral vids like Mutant Giant Spider Dog (over 160 million hits!). Inevitably, WWII has also thrust Poland into the spotlight. City Of Ruins takes viewers on a digital reconstruction over a smoldering post-Uprising Warsaw, while There Is A City – which shows the poignant minute’s silence held each year to remember the 1944 Uprising – has done more than its fair share to raise awareness of this battle.

Z

ąbkowska

is more than just another street: it’s Praga’s spiritual gateway and a place where ‘things happen’. Furthermore, it’s a microcosm of the area. Till now it’s been a place of cult bars and courtyard secrets though this stands to change with the redevelopment of the Koneser Vodka Factory complex. Once heavily touted as ‘the New Berlin’ (yawn), Praga’s resistance to overt gentrification has been a compelling case study. How Warsaw’s ‘wild side’ fares in the next few years could come to define the wider future of the city...

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS RESTAURANTS 42 CAFES & WINE BARS 72 NIGHTLIFE 77 SHOPPING 86 FAMILY 90 HEALTH & BEAUTY 95 IN THE CITY 97

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

CONCRETE OASIS

Once a public toilet, the bunker-style structure on the triangular intersection between Piękna and Mokotowska has, in the last decade or so, tried its hand at serving everything from Vietnamese food to kebabs to pizza to coffee. All have failed, and quite rightly so. The venue’s latest incarnation, as a fun Thai restaurant, stands to make a better fist of things. Decorated in a tiki style with wavy palms and wood-clad decking, it feels like a breath of fresh air. The menu, hand-written and often illegible, essentially shows whatever the cook has written up from within her food truck-style kitchen. Thai staples like tom yum soup and pad Thai are available, though the key is to ask what else the chef can fix. Definitely a solid, summer performer.

Kho Phangan ul. Piękna 9A

www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS A Room With A View

Not just for tourists, the Old Town finally receives the restaurant it’s been crying out for...

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

a

good view can do many things, but what it can’t do is make an ordinary meal great. There is no magic wand for that. You would think that’s an obvious point, yet it doesn’t stop many restaurants – particularly those in touristy areas – from using attractive vantage points as some kind of compensatory tool for sub-par cooking. It’s a theory that, stripped to its bare bones, assumes that if customers are going to roll-in regardless, then why bother even trying.

As harmful as this philosophy is, it’s embraced by the overwhelming majority of Old Town addresses, which is why most residents of Warsaw leave eating in that area to witless tourists who don’t know any better.

But hold the front page – in a revolutionary demonstration of foresight and logic, Warszawski Sznyt have realized that pairing outstanding views with exemplary cooking can reinforce a diner’s experience and make it truly memorable. Moreover, doing so expands the potential customer base to include locals as well. Clever, huh?

Set on two floors overlooking Pl. Zamkowy, the view that’s offered here is a step short of magic: with the windows open, and curtains billowing lightly in the breeze, you feel so close to the Royal Castle it’s as if you’ve been sucked inside a postcard. As ringside seats go, this one’s tough to beat. Looking in, and the interior isn’t too shabby either – chic and contemporary, the floor plan is high on space and light and sophisticated touches. Though physically close, it’s a world away from the cramped, darkened quarters that typify many of Old Town’s restaurants.

But this, you understand, is not a place that sticks to the norm. While the menu looks familiar and understandable, the cooking is something special: assured but full of creative bursts, you suspect that the chefs involved have a fine dining background. And yes, you’d be right to do so.

For Rafał Zaręba, the learning curve began at Atelier Amaro, while for Michał Węcławek, the CV features Salto. Together, they make a ferociously talented duo that strive for perfection and achieve it each time.

The first stride of their triumphant march takes in a żurek, a bold, revitalizing broth complete with wild boar sausage and a gooey, runny egg. Though I’d normally balk at ordering this on a blazing afternoon, there’s a delicate lightness here that suits the moment. The same can be said of a strip of tuna ceviche cooked in lemon / lime juice and served with sprinkles of powdered ginger. The secret ingredient is a splash of teriyaki that gives the dish a distinct tang and an Asian twist. Clearly, there’s someone behind the scenes that knows about fish, for the salmon gravadlax – marinated in tequila and honey – is equally faultless.

Our mains pit duck and bull against each other: the former, a duck fillet drizzled with ribbons of crispy salsify and presented on an arc of butternut squash puree, is a harmonious creation that’s vibrantly presented in a whirl of amber colors. The bull, on the other hand, is served on a slate alongside a big bowl of chips. There’s nothing dainty about it, and nor should there be: full of fleshy tastes, this is food that shouts masculinity.

The final celebratory shots are fired by a dessert that glimmers in a kaleidoscope of color: somewhere there’s a grilled pineapple, though that’s largely obscured by crumbles of raspberry meringue, cooked plums and a ‘flower of champagne’ granita. And below all of that, a golden syrupy slick of anise toffee – I feel like I’ve grown a pair of wings and fluttered up to heaven. That the price of this celestial journey is just zł. 21 makes it sweeter still, but then, that’s another of the suprises: not only does Warszawaski Sznyt beat the rest on account of their food and views, but prices (approx. zł. 60-75 for mains) remain pegged at a level that’s highly affordable to all. Eating in Old Town just changed forever. (AW)

Warszawski Sznyt ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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REVIEWS

MEXICAN REVOLUTION

Famed for his long association with El Popo, chef Angel Aceves Vivanco has teamed up with Lourdes Estrada to create a cheerful-looking spot on the fringe of New Town. Ringing with colorful patterns and mosaics, the effect – like the food itself – is simple but reassuringly lively. On Visit No. 1, that means a hefty chicken burrito given a viper’s bite thanks to a chili habanero salsa – all so well received that Visit No. 2 occurs within 24hrs. But here’s the addendum: operating for just a couple of weeks, inconsistencies are an issue. The second visit brings an overly-crisp burrito that’s had much of its previous size lopped off; but portioning errors work two ways, and the guacamole – rich, smooth, refreshing – is everything you wish for and in an XL bowl. A place of huge potential, we’re expecting teething problems to be fully fixed by the time summer peaks. El Barrio ul. Długa 6

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REVIEWS

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A Warsaw Classic

Palmier redefine the principle of pleasure...

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

i

t's easy to carve and condense south central Warsaw into snack-sized pieces – you've got Nowogrodzka, celebrated for its craft beer and busy bars; there's Poznańska, with its neo-bistros and summer street scene; Koszykowa, now forever defined by Hala Koszyki; and Mokotowska with its fancy boutiques.

Wilcza, that's all about quirky private enterprises, while Krucza, with its history of bankrupted bars, is where good (and notso-good) ideas go to die. Żurawia, on the other hand, is something stylish, smart and altogeher sexy. Don't believe us? Then step into Palmier.

Opened last May, Palmier hit the ground running and have been a success story ever since. This, in itself, is no surprise: by offering classic cocktails with an individualized twist, they've hit upon a niche that Warsaw has a taste for. Masterfully crafted using the finest ingredients, cocktails here are a liquid journey into the heart of pleasure.

Well-balanced and impeccable on every level, the thrills here are refined and high class. If you want day-glo cocktails served inside a halved coconut shell, go elsewhere - Palmier is for people who know a top drink when they have one.

Escapist in every respect, there's a star quality here, a real sense of swank. The interiors are the stuff of Gatsby – tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath ceilings that stretch forever – while the long, strip terrace is pure seasonal bliss: a place to chill, chat and pretend to be one of Warsaw's top 1%. It's not just good, it's one of the best... (AW)

Palmier ul. Żurawia 6/12, palmier.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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NEW SPRING MENU!

At Pańska 85 we’re constantly updating our offer to suit not just the season but also the demands of our guests: this summer we’re proud to present a series of new additions, including rabbit’s leg in anise sauce as well as a range of homemade lemonades made with lemon and thyme; mango and passion fruit; and forest fruits and cucumber.

And there’s asparagus as well! We’ll be serving pork strips with green asparagus in Beijing sauce; crispy asparagus with garlic flakes; and green asparagus with tiger prawns and a hint of ginger.

Ul. Pańska 85 tel. 512 671 756, 22 253 30 30 panska85.com.pl

Partner News The latest marketplace news from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers…

Taste of India

Prepared daily using the freshest ingredients, at Curry House we’re proud of offering the very best of Indian cuisine. Though we’ve now expanded our business to include four locales, we’re also always happy to deliver food to the homes and offices of our clients across Warsaw.

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81, ul. Towarowa 35, ul. Ryżowa 44, ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl

Cocktail Fever

Summer Spirit

All White

Sip amazing cocktails while enjoying balmy summer evenings in Granda.

We don’t have a traditional menu, instead we custom-make drinks to suit individual tastes. While we’ve got a great terrace, the hip interior ensures you’re in for a top time no matter what the weather holds. At the weekend, get your groove on to the sound of our DJs. Granda!

Treat yourself to a short break in our newly-opened garden: green and secluded, it’s the ultimate in relaxation.

Remember, also, to visit us for business lunch from 12 noon to 4 p.m. from Monday to Friday – your happiness and enjoyment is our goal.

Biała was created out of pure love for food and architecture. Here guests will become acquainted with grand Polish cuisine dating from the years of the Amber Trail. Our new seasonal menu includes the finest vendace served over crunchy green leaves, white asparagus in buttery lemon sauce or pearl barley with chanterelles and kale.

ul. Krucza 24/26

Thai Thai Pl. Teatralny 3

Biała - Zjedz i Wypij ul. Francuska 2

www.warsawinsider.pl

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Pa N rtn ew er s

A Hidden Treasure

No more a closely guarded secret, The Amber Room continues to be one of the most influential restaurants in the country...

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Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2017

W

hen the time comes to write a complete history of dining in Poland, there’s one place above all others that will warrant its own chapter.

Launched in 1999 under the patronage of media mogul Jan Wejchert, for its first ten years The Amber Room was one of the bedrocks upon which the Polish Roundtable Business Club flourished and grew; to this day, it continues to act as this esteemed organization’s center of gravity, the only difference being that for the last eight years the restaurant has been open to the public.

By choosing to unlock their doors, The Amber Room allowed the rest of the universe to peer inside Poland’s greatest gastronomic secret. An exaggeration? Certainly not. Having targeted perfection from the outset, the mission to create a restaurant befitting of the status of the Business Club saw the recruitment of the best and brightest young Polish talents. It was here that chefs such as Wojciech Amaro first came to the fore, and it was here that modern Polish cuisine was first allowed to bloom. To all intents and purposes, The Amber Room came to be regarded as the seat of the nation’s culinary revolution.

And what a venue it is. Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers, many of which are off-limits to all but club members. That’s not to say non-members get a raw deal: beautifully arranged, the restaurant is both lavishly appointed yet cultured and classy. Muted color schemes blend seamlessly with contemporary art and elaborate floral decorations; overhead, sumptuous chandeliers glimmer in the light. But the crowning glory, that’s the garden terrace overlooking the pristine lawn.

To sit here in the summer is to bask in the warm waters of affluence and well-being.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds. Here from the very beginning, chef Robert Skubisz has become something of an ambassador for

Polish culinary values with accolades including a silver medal at the 2016 IKA Culinary Olympics in Erfurt. His seasonally changing menu provides plenty of evidence as to why he is viewed as the lifeblood of The Amber Room: of the a la carte options, we begin with an immaculate tuna tartare that incorporates ginger, lime and Thai avocado. “An international course,” says the chef, “but with a Polish twist.” Next, deer carpaccio with blobs of chestnut puree, mustard leaves and tiny thumbnails of marinated chanterelles: it’s an explosion of color on both the palate and the plate. And then there’s the dumplings, delicate purses of soft, tender duck meat – the four forks that Michelin have awarded The Amber Room have been clearly well-earned.

For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers: light, natural and subtle, it’s in keeping with the chef’s underlying philosophy: “we never want to over-do the flavors,” he says during one of his forays to the dining room, “but at the same time, we want to create something unique, stunning and emotive.” Mission accomplished. As if to highlight this point, the chia pudding that concludes the meal is nothing but a magnificent adventure: served in a sphere of white chocolate with powdery rock-like crumbles of mango and a passion fruit sorbet, it’s a standout that causes spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy.

Of course, this should come as no surprise. An established heavyweight on Poland’s epicurean circuit, time and time again The Amber Room have shown themselves fully committed to breaking boundaries, embracing modernity and moving with the times. For all that, never have Skubisz & Co. lost sight of the ultimate goal – that first and foremost it’s all about delivering a flawless product.

The Amber Room Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amber-room.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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restaurants KEY

NEW & NOTEWORTHY

$ zł. 30 (per main) $$ zł. 30-55 $$$ over zł. 55 New listings are in RED 2016 Best of Warsaw Award Winner BEST OF WARSAW 2016 KEY WINNERS Fine Dining Nolita Casual Dining MOD Upscale Casual Dyletanci & Rozbrat20 Modern Polish Mała Polana Smaków

BAR GDAŃSKI (ul. Andersa 33) First created in the 1950’s, Bar Gdański has operated on Andersa 33 since the very birth of this showpiece Socialist Realist housing block. Closed in spring, it’s now been rescued, revamped and finally reopened. Offering a modernized slant on the traditional milk bar experience, its been adapted for the 21st century whilst also remaining sensitive to the past. Drawing a wide variety of locals – young and old, rich and broke – the food is simple, hearty, classic Polish. Great place, great value.

WARS I SAWA W NOWYM (ul. Madalińskiego 10/16) With its wide spaces, high ceilings and echoing sense of clatter, there’s something of a canteen spirit to Wars i Sawa.

Occupying a chunk of the Nowy Teatr, it gets particularly busy after performances – and rightly so. Fresh, seasonal and well-presented, the food here is vegan, healthy and unerringly popular. The vege-burger sounds prosaic but is actually something of a star turn.

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american british burgers & street food chinese cooking schools fine dining french georgian greek & turkish hungarian indian indonesian international italian japanese & sushi jewish korean latin & spanish mexican middle eastern polish seafood specialty food shops steak houses thai vegan & wholefood vietnamese

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listings / restaurants american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar (C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks. This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’.

The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings. $$ Champions Sports Bar (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel.

22 630 5119, champions.pl While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize

their consistency: the food is always on-point, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. $$ Hard Rock Café (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. $$

british Ę Rybę (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast,

albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. $$

burgers & street food Burger Bar ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. $ Nocny Market (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Past Warszawa Główna Train Station) Set on and around a disused train platform, this weekend hangout gets thronged: guys with waxed whiskers queue for new wave beer while uber cool girls cast Jessica Rabbit eyes at a hip hop DJ. Mostly though, it’s a place that’s about food: an ever evolving line-up brings together not just food

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listings / restaurants

YOU’VE TRIED ALL THE REST, NOW TRY THE BEST!

trucks, but quality restaurants hawking their specials from tiny stalls – keep an eye on their facebook to see who is booked for the weekend. $ Pogromcy Meatów (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. $ Warburger (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. $

Newly Opened!

Le Cedre Lounge

chinese

Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl

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Pańska 85 (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuanstyle pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight.

Regina Bar ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar Stepping past a pair of flowing red drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas.

Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind

of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights.

Rico’s Concept ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście16/18 Never let a name fool you. While Rico’s might sound more like a Mexican food truck, the reality presents a former bathhouse luxuriously decorated with handpainted Majolica, swanky fittings and even a shimmery pool.

The menu has won plaudits around town for its stunning authenticity. Full review next issue. $$

cooking schools Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl Run by two Italians, find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available.

Cook Up Studio ul. Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), tel. 22 212 89 76, cookup.pl Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress.

Past themes have included Swedish cooking (led by the Swedish Embassy chef), knife skills and soup, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work.

Qki ul.Szolc-Rogozińskiego 3, qki.waw.pl Already famed for their pastries and cakes, the two sisters in-law that run Qki are now ready to reveal their kitchen secrets inside their latest project: a cooking studio set down in Ursynów.

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace (E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl The Amber Room is, indeed, a bit of a treasure. You know all the chefs we bang on about in this mag? Bottom line, the good ones came through via this kitchen.

But this is more than a training ground for future stars, it’s a place that remains on the cutting edge in spite of its seemingly straight look. Positioned inside a majestic villa, the food is pure contemporary Poland, and well deserving of its Michelin nod. For that, thank chef Robert Skubisz. $$$

listings / restaurants Atelier Amaro (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl The recipient of Poland’s first Michelin star, Atelier promotes pedigree Polish produce enhanced by modern techniques, with courses interspersed by occasionally bizarre interludes (leaves, flowers, twigs, etc). It’s an extraordinary dining experience, and one which confirms the growing cult of Wojciech Amaro. In the hours you’re here the world stops and you leave feeling like James Bond. Reservations are mandatory, but this is a restaurant that tops the foodie bucket list. $$$

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere. com.pl Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu.

But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ La Rotisserie (C1) ul. Kościelna 12 (Le Régina Hotel), tel.

22 531 6070, leregina.com It began with duck foie gras and finished with a caramel

Valrhona chocolate parfait. In between came a scallop salad with plums, almonds and tarragon tempura; a grilled tuna; and a seared Barbary duck with blackberry ginger sauce and the kind of parsnips you never knew existed. The Insider’s visit at the end of 2016 was nothing if not a reassertion of chef Paweł Oszczyk’s ample skill. Enjoy one of Warsaw’s top dining experiences inside a gloriously seductive dining room that’s been recently updated. $$$ L’enfant Terrible (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs. Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms!

More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. $$$ N31 (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl One of the original pioneers of modern Polish cooking returns with renewed vigor. That’s Robert Sowa, and his N31 restaurant has already

made a massive splash with an upmarket, showbizzy crowd enjoying complex cooking amid a luxurious interior of pristine linen and glinting tableware. $$$

Nolita (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita. pl The deluxe dining scene is filling out in Warsaw, and there’s now a few restaurants that can present an equitable claim for the No. 1 spot. However, it’s Nolita that perch at the top, with a menu that sees largely classical recipes through a sharp, modern prism – chef Jacek Grochowina has created a place that’s coherent and understandable without sacrificing values of innovation. Looking chic and high end, the tastes and sensations in this restaurant are thrilling: diners are left speechless by the tuna tartar, while the aged beef fillet is an Insider mainstay. $$$ BEST WAWA 2016 “Fine Dining” Platter by Karol Okrasa (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum

www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. $$$

Salto (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Fine dining gets a South American makeover thanks to Martin Gimenez Castro, an Argentinean who has emerged as one of the most influential chefs in Poland. While some critics grumble that Warsaw’s top end scene has flat-lined, Salto push the envelope in terms of breaking boundaries and probing new ground. Light, fresh and full of zing, the ceviche is a must, as is a delve around the Sunday steak menu. Desserts, meanwhile, are among the most inventive in town: a brilliant demonstration of Castro’s passion and personality, order the ‘Childhood / Irresponsible / Fantasy / Fun’ and you’ll understand what we mean. $$$ Senses (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl Andrea Camastra’s Michelin-starred tasting menu is a succession of impossible highs and makes a big deal of scientific methods and culinary advances.

Full of theater and unpredictable flourishes (billowing mists, imaginative presentation, edible cigars...), this restaurant is never short on dare and dazzle. $$$

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Signature (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene. Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. $$

french ArtBistro Stalowa ul. Stalowa 52, tel. 22 618 2732 Part of an ‘art hotel’, the distant Stalowa features a narrow dining chamber with vaulted walls, fresh flowers and white formica fittings.

It looks good, but on a brighter day the courtyard, strewn with deckchairs and crates, is the place to be. The food is erratic but there is potential: if the other courses were a disappointment then the main was a thing of excellence – duck with a carefully crisped skin, a perfect hint of fat, expertly browned potatoes and a well-executed orange and caramel sauce. $$ Bistro la Cocotte (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel. 664 906 000 With

access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home. The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour.

L’Arc (E8) ul. Puławska 16, tel. 519 000 050, larc.pl Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. No-one complains, however. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. $$ La Cocotte Saska (H4) ul. Walecznych 68A Already well regarded on account of a highly successful venture just off Pl. Zbawiciela, La Cocotte have spread their wings to set up shop in scenic Saska. A typical French-style bistro / wine bar, the offer includes a brief but largely brilliant menu whose main strength is its mussels. The wine list is substantial and French-focused and enjoyed by a smart, upmarket audience. $$

listings / restaurants No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, fb.com/nocommentwarszawa Set inside one of those momentous towers that support Most Poniatowskiego, you don’t feel like you’re in a restaurant, you’ll feel like you’re in a film – something weird by Aronofsky or Lynch.

Seating is small and tight, set around glasstopped tables that favor form over function.

But there’s a reasoning behind this which soon becomes apparent. No Comment is all about intimacy, about bending over platters for surreptitious slurps of New Zealand oysters. It’s about decadence, about clinking glasses and toasting the moment. Most of all, it’s about authentic French style. $$

georgian Chinkali (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Signposted by a Georgianlanguage shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. $ Rusiko (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko. pl Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen.

Live music lends the weekends a goodhumored twist. Note: closed Monday. $$

Santorini ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/ santorini/ Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – and the milfei dessert is magic. $$

ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive. $

Sofra (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, tel. 731 847 731 A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us. Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced, and it becomes an easy place to hang around in. $

indian

Taverna Patris (G4) ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. $$

hungarian U Madziara (B3)

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. $$ Bombaj Masala (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl Probably the best looking Indian restaurant in Warsaw. After a disappointing couple of years Bombaj have upped their game and made a sparkling return to form. Bland, oily dishes have been replaced with all the rich, intense tastes you’ve come to hope for. $$ Chmielarnia (B4) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), tel. 725 010 271, chmielarnia.waw.pl Find some of the world’s greatest beers (see Nightlife) served

greek & turkish Bar Turecki “Efes” (H4) ul. Francuska 1, ul. Aleje Niepodleglości 80, tel. 22 898 3001 So it’s best known as a kebab shop, but when the kebabs are this good they’re well worth the listing. Either join the queue outside, or head indoors to sample the smattering of Turkish grill food and salads. $

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Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw

listings / restaurants in a murky, muggy basement. The Indian food that accompanies it is generally successful without being memorable – the beer snack menu though is great, with big points going to the spicy, chili ribs. Now also boasts a more salubrious location on Marszałkowska 10/16. $

WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

Curry House ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 & ul.

Ryżowa 44, curry-house.pl Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. While neither of their two locations (Bielany & city center) look too grand (the Bielany branch is a glorified hut), the curries are rich and sumptuous and in a league of their own. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. $$ Curry Leaf ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes.

Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. $$

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

WWW.HOUSE-OF-CURRY.PL

PATRIOTÓW 11A, FALENICA 512 533 415

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House of Curry ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. $$ Karma (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 501 400 386, restauracjakarma.pl Fresh, contemporary interiors impart a chic, classy look that’s leagues ahead of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive, with fresh ingredients and an expansive menu: the vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. $$ Mr. India Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling.

No problem though, if it looks bland then the

food isn’t. That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying. Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town. $$ Namaste India (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time. $$ Tandoor (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered? Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. $$

indonesian Warung Jakarta (D6) ul. Piękna 28/34 The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. $

international Aioli (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5, aioliinspiredbymini.pl Once a gritty Stalinist leftover, Konstytucji has come a long way fast. A recent rush of bars and restaurants have aided the reintrocution of life to this concrete tundra, the most prominent of which being Aioli. Some might

listings / restaurants accuse it of being formulaic, but it’s clearly a formula that works: young and energetic, there’s a buzz here lasts long into the night.

Food-wise, it’s a steady choice based around burgers, pizzas and other things that their age bracket appreciates. $$ Aioli (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. $$ Ale Wino (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous. As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver.

Bazar Kocha (D6) ul. Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’.

The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. $$ Bez Tytułu (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska.

The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. $$ Bibenda (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-to-month.

The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. $$ Brasserie Warszawska (E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it.

At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: pan-fried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors.

Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of chef Mateusz Wichrowski. $$$ Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles.com.pl Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty. The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette. Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. $$ Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Zgoda 3 & ul. Puławska 24, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl When Bułkę przez Bibułkę was opened the idea was simple – to create a boutique version of Subway: a high quality sandwich shop people would value. But after they started serving breakfast, the whole thing snowballed into a more bistro-style offer. Now there’s a second venue on Zgoda, it’s not just the quality that’s contributed to the success, but the atmosphere as well. $$ Casablanca Biały Kamień ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. $$ Concept 13 (D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański.

That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making. $$$

The Cool Cat (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700 Our visit featured a musical standoff between two waiters arguing over possession of the laptop, and a genuine piece of plate art that was as delicious as it looked: beautiful deer surrounded by creative ingredients. Small menu and a fashionable crowd, but an immensely enjoyable place that adds further oomph to Powiśle. $$

but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł. 79) is simply astonishing.

The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semi-freddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. $$

Dekant Wine Bar (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar,

Der Elefant (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant. com This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone.

Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. $$ Dom ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking. Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. $$ Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps.

The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills BEST WAWA 2016 with every bite. $$ “Upscale Casual”

Grand Kredens (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does. The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid

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listings / restaurants out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. $$ Grunt i Woda Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej An appealing wood-framed construction with hard hitting cocktails and a thoughtful menu that utilizes ingredients grown in their own garden. Watch out for their ‘jazz brunches’ each Sunday. $$ Hala Koszyki (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Finally open after years of disruption and destruction, the launch of this food hall was the big story of Autumn 2016. Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. $$ InFormal Kitchen (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. $$

Joseph’s Bistro & Wine (B1) ul. Inflancka 4, josephs.pl Spacious and smooth on the eye, Joseph’s has the feel of a place where good things happen: and indeed they do. For starters there’s a visually enticing tuna tartar, not to mention gherkin with rhubarb and cheese. It’s frankly remarkable with all sorts of tastes popping out thanks to a marinade that involves passionfruit, chili, vinegar and maple syrup. As a main, don’t miss the duck breast: a simple thing of beauty that’s given extra vigor with a star anise demi-glace. $$ Kieliszki Na Hożej ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl The only Polish graduate of the Alain Ducasse academy in Paris, Dawid Balana has combined everything he’s learned along the way to fashion a menu that’s high on local produce but cooked with a classic French twist. The tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. $$ Kuchnia Otwarta ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by

Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer: the wild boar stew, served in a cast iron pot, is a dark, delicious work that nourishes the soul.

La Brasserie Modern (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light.

The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. Acting as a ballast to it all is an open kitchen, in which you’ll find Executive Chef Maciej Majewski honing his art. His is a menu that fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. $$

Loft (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected

Loft is the perfect place to pause for a moment for a coffee, to meet with friends for lunch or a late dinner – most of all, it’s a chance to escape the city bustle while remaining in the heart of Warsaw. ul. Złota 11 tel. 668 016 964 restauracjaloft.pl

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listings / restaurants by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. $$ Manoush (D4) ul. Jasna 10, manoush.pl It’s rare to see Beef Wellington on a Warsaw menu, and even rarer to find it executed well. But that’s exactly what Manoush manage to do, presenting prime, pink beef wrapped in a flaky, puff pastry. The rest of the international, bistro-style menu is equally fulfilling, and includes a wondrous halibut. There’s no revolution going on at Manoush, but you

sense it’s a place that knows exactly what it’s doing, and is doing it well. $$ MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing.

The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored

wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper BEST WAWA 2016 “Casual menu. $$ Dining” Mokotowska 69 (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. $$ Plato ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. $$

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

WE WELCOME YOU

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Północ Poludnie (E7) ul. Bagatela 10, pn-pd.pl Besides the food being colorful and inventive there is a restaurant concept that works here. It has a visible kitchen, which at times is a little noisy, a beautifully designed interior, not to mention an attentive wait staff that are familiar with what they serve. $$ Prosta Historia (H4) ul. Francuska 24, prostahistoria.com Informal-looking with its simple white finishes and stripped wooden floors, Prosta fills a ‘catch-all’ role of cafe/restaurant/ bar/meeting point. And it does all the aforementioned very well indeed, thanks to a skilled chef, a good drinks offer and a continental atmosphere that’s all life and good humor. $$

listings / restaurants Original Indian Cuisine

Qchnia Artystyczna (E6) Al. Jazdów 2 (Zamek Ujazdowski), tel. 22 625 7627, qchnia.pl Even on a cold, ashen day, can you question a view that spills down onto a canal and park way down below? And how about when that view comes from a candle-lit reconstructed castle… Endlessly romantic, this artistic eatery comes with a light look and a creative menu. $$ Rozbrat 20 (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with curls of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy BEST WAWA 2016 taste. Outstanding. $$ “Upscale Casual” Sawa Bistro (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5, sawabistro.pl An unpretentious ride through largely Mediterranean cuisine with standouts including ‘Galicianstyle octopus’ and an Italian tartar with olive powder, shallots in port and balsamic vinegar and a smoked egg. The interiors are stripped to their original concrete and feature an eye-catching mosaic designed in the PRL style, as well as floor-to-ceiling windows and cheerful blue flashes. $$ Secado (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. $$

club

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Soul Kitchen Bistro (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc. The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. $

Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. $$

Strefa (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl There’s a swan white elegance here, with lots of pristine colors and smart, smooth-talking service. What a refreshing change. Chef Jarosław Walczyk favors sous-vide techniques, and his is a magic, masterful hand – his duck is flawless, and the homemade ice cream with seasonal fruits is quite a follow-up. $$$

Tusz Tusz Bistro (C2) Pl. Bankowy 2 Hidden round the back of Pl. Bankowy’s epic blue tower, Tusz Tusz is the kind of place Warsaw needs more of: a catch-all solution with a local menu that keeps office workers in mind – it’s fast, available from dawn but doesn’t cut corners when it comes to basic standards. Full review coming soon. $$ Warbuger Na Żelazna (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62 The easiest mistake one can make is to think this is a burger joint – in part it is, but the whole truth is that it’s so much more. A complete upgrade from their original joint in Mokotów, the real attraction is an enticing page of more-ish, meaty mains: oxtail, beef cheeks and other snips of bits and offal. $$

Warszawski Sznyt ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – it’s restaurants, however,

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listings / restaurants are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro. Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. $$

italian Ave Pizza (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel. 22 828 8507, avepizza. pl The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. $

The Blueberry’s (D6) Pl. Zbawiciela, fb.com/theblueberrys Strange times for Pl. Zbawiciela: it’s not long back people were burning down the rainbow installation (RIP!), calling it Pl. Hipstera and writing about it in publications such as The New York Times. Though it might have stagnated a little since that heyday hopes are again high for the future, and The Blueberry’s is one reason. Specializing in the food of Piedmont, find an onus placed on authentic, home-style tastes. $$ Delizia (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia. com.pl The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night

comes guaranteed. Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. $$ Dziurka od Klucza (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl An inviting Italian restaurant in which curious doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be opened by the keys that hang on the tree outside. Striking a lavender look, the magic of this restaurant is affirmed by its wonderful pasta and intimate style. $$

Enoteka (C1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl This L-shaped space feels completely correct: tall ceilings, big windows, marble floors and an overwhelming sense of light and sun. The mood is good. Food matches the serious wine list

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table. Discover a seasonal menu skillfully composed by chef Maciej Majewski by combining the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist.

Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by creating a sense of participation in a live culinary show.

La Brasserie Moderne, visit us Mon.-Sat. noon-midnight | Królewska St 11 | 00-065 Warsaw | Tel. +48 22 657 83 82 | Email: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com | www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

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listings / restaurants and includes a rich topinmabur soup, creamy Agnolloti pasta and a hearty steak. These are not attempts at a kitchen revolution, rather a concentrated focus on a menu that makes sense. $$ Focaccia (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess.

The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. $$ Mąka i Woda (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and

imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes.

Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone.

Learning this, some storm off in a huff – they need their heads checked, for this is Warsaw’s best pizza. $

Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails.

Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. $$

Ristorante San Lorenzo (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 36, tel. 22 652 1616, sanlorenzo.pl Adorned with crisp, starched linen and Roman frescos this space is almost magisterial in design. The Tuscan menu is flawless and well worth the rather hefty bill.

The wine bar on the ground floor features the same standards at a snip of the price, and it’s here you’ll find Italian natives cheering the Serie A football. Now also on Żurawia 6/12, only with a more modish design clearly targeted at a slightly younger audience. $$

Benihana (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills.

These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics.

Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. $$

Si (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115 From the makers of

japanese & sushi

Izumi Sushi ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.

22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi,

Modern take on Italian cuisine tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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listings / restaurants though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it. $$ Kago Sushi ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), kagosushi. pl A place of such merit that it’s worth bludgeoning your way through the surging crowds of off-duty lawyers and second rate ‘slebs. A side project from the team behind Izumi, portioning here is strict and skimpy, but the precision, attention to detail and flavors are second to none. Bills creep up fast as you opt for ‘just one more nigiri’, but such is the brilliance that complaints are rare. $$ Omami (D5) ul. Mokotowska 29 (enter from Krucza) Sushi has been side-lined and ramen is rising.

Opened a few months ago, Omami promise four types of ramen, not to mention steamed buns and other budget-minded Japanese options. $ Om Nom Nom (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43 The worst idea to hit Warsaw in 2016? The sushito, a bastardized hybrid of Mexican and Japanese cuisine. Om Nom Nom were the principal pioneers of this prattish fad, so it was no great loss when it closed in Feb. Now reopened, they’ve lost the sushito, replacing it instead with brilliant bowls of ramen cooked by the highly-rated Luiza Trisno. A fair swap? You bet. Enjoy your

Sakana Sushi Bar ul. Burakowska 5/7 tel. 22 636 0505, ul. Moliera 4/6, tel. 22 826 5958, & ul.

Wąwozowa 6, lok.10B, tel. 22 498 8899, sakana.pl Sushi as a fashion statement?

That’s what you find in Sakana, a place where the glam and the great of Warsaw peacock around with feathers on display. Ignoring the general vanity and unpleasantness, one can’t help but applaud the sushi – if there was one winner in the sushi wars of the noughties, then Sakana was it. $$

Present this voucher and enjoy a complimentary Japanese tea with a hot sushi set.* Warsaw Złote Tarasy Street Złota 59 3th level Phone +48 602 198 726 * Valid until August 2017. Not to be used with any other offer, not exchangeable for cash or refundable. One voucher per person.

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2017

Tomo (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo. pl While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. $$

Shoku (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl In local terms, this has to be amongst the most blogged about restaurants of the year thus far. While it actually opened several months back, it’s only now that the place is gathering steam and getting recognized thanks to word-of-

Unique hot sushi sets and a stunning view.

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Sushi Zushi (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. $$

Sato Gotuje ul. Pawińskiego 24 Ochota’s culinary drought is over, and in some style as well. While the plain interiors look bald and boring, the cooking of Satoru Yaegashi is all art and precision: braised duck breast with mustard; fried sardines with roasted sesame seeds; and heaps of homemade udon in warming fish broth. Often outstanding, it’s little wonder that people are arriving in droves from all across town: bookings aren’t mandatory, but they’re definitely advised. $$

EXPERIENCE JAPAN

mouth. In truth, it’s not hard to see what the fuss is about: occupying a cool, almost industrial-looking spot not far from the Rising Museum, Shoku offers an excellent menu of Asian-style tapas and small plates inside a buzzy background that’s never short of custom. The tuna steak is recommended. $$

noodles inside a zany interior filled with big punches of color. $$

Uki Uki (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker

IN HERE, IT’S ALWAYS FRIDAY ®

Present this voucher and enjoy a complimentary brownie with a premium burger.* Warsaw Street Al. Jana Pawła II 29 Phone +48 22 653 83 60 * Valid until August 2017. Not to be used with any other offer, not exchangeable for cash or refundable. One voucher per person.

listings / restaurants turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. $$ Wabu Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. $$$ Wasabi Pl. Piłsudskiego 2, tel. 22 314 6963, restauracjawasabi.pl Rated as one of the best value for money deals on sushi you’ll find in the city, the sets offer phenomenally good value. Sushi master Masahiro Ueyama knows all the tricks in his book, and his green tea tiramisu is a surprising finish.

jewish Florentin (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/FlorentinWarszawa A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. $$ Tel Aviv (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. $$

korean Miss Kimchi (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg. The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi.

This is replenishment in its truest form. $

LEVEL 1 POLISH AND BUSINESS CUISINE

Onggi (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. $$ Sora (A4) ul. Wronia 45 Buoyed by a surge in Korean expat numbers, Koren cuisine found itself cresting in 2016. Yet despite the increasingly competitive market, Sora are commonly accepted as the rulers of the roost. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience.

It’s even better with copious quantaties of Makkoli wine. $$

latin & spanish Casa Pablo (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this.

With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. $$

2 SENATORSKA STREET, WARSAW + 48 22 829 20 50 or + 48 609 608 010 WWW.WARSZAWSKISZNYT.PL FACEBOOK.COM/ WARSZAWSKISZNYTRESTAURANT INSTAGRAM.COM/ WARSZAWSKI_SZNYT

Ceviche Bar (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl Created by the award-winning Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt why some are tipping ceviche to become as big as sushi. Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona. $$ Mojo Picon ul. Prosta 53, mojopicon.pl Smart and atmospheric yet still pleasingly casual, the early feedback has been healthy. Specializing in Hispanic cuisine, especially that of the Canary Islands, specific strengths include a broad selection of Spanish wines, artfully

LEVEL 0 MODERN STEAKHOUSE

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listings / restaurants composed tapas and a paella for the purists.

A smaller operation the size of a mouse hole operates on Poznanska. $$ Tapas Gastrobar (A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 251 1310 The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class its bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. $$

mexican Blue Cactus (E8) ul. Zajączkowska 11, tel. 22 851 2323, bluecactus.pl Combining the barbecuing techniques of the southern states with the humble but potent tastes of Mexico, this veteran landmark is committed to local produce and fresh flavors, the previous chef’s finest moment was hoiking over a wood-fired grill all the way from Nashville – the steaks will stop you in your tracks. Note: not all recent reports have been positive, with service issues cited as a particular complaint. $$

Dos Tacos (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos. pl Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. $$ Gringo Bar (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-tofront caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. $ La Sirena (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Creamy guacamole the color of Kermit; cocktails that are both vicious and delicious; and drunken beans full of heart and vim. But La Sirena gets even better, particularly with the short ribs burrito and a readjusted ‘almost death salsa’ that’s learned to say POW. Add to this a machete-laden interior that draws inspiration from the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, and you understand why this tiny, backstreet cantina has become the talk of the town. At no point in its history has Warsaw enjoyed better Mexican food. $$ Urban Burritos (D6) ul. Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto.

Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. $

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listings / restaurants middle eastern Falafel Bejrut (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15 Light, bright and buzzing with custom, this cheerful venture has a small scattering of seating and an expanded menu whose talking point is award-winning falafel.

The hummus, too, is pretty amazing. $ Falafel Bejrut Moliera 8 (D2) ul. Moliera 8 So what would you prefer – an underperforming steakhouse or what’s commonly regarded as the best falafel Warsaw has ever seen? In all truth, polls are closed on that one. Taking the place of the defunct Muu Muu restaurant, Falafel Bejrut have grown from life as a ‘food bike’ outside Hala Mirowska, to a runaway juggernaut in the heart of Warsaw. Both the falafel and hummus are exceptional, and you’ll find their latest venue also serving artisanal vegan ice cream from Vegestacja. $

Le Cedre 84 (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. $$ Le Cedre Lounge ul. Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. $$

Le Cedre (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a Shuk sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. ul. Grójecka 127 Located behind Hala Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese Banacha in this gradually blooming district of food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalSalto Advert Feb 20.pdf 1 20/02/17 15:08 Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride grilled lamb chops. $$

if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on a Warsaw winter’s day. $ Sokotra (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra. pl ICasting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. $$

polish

Ale Gloria (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3, tel. 22 584 7080, alegloria.pl Who said romance was dead?

Here wedding white colors are fused with a strawberry motif inside this gourmet fave.

Keeping patrons returning are aromatic dishes with a contemporary twist – try the

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listings / restaurants duck in rose sauce. $$$ Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere. com.pl Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. $$$ Bez Gwiazdek (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of 2016 saw chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds.

Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek leaves no

doubt why local food fans repeat his name with reverence and awe. For this restaurant, 2017 promises to get even bigger. $$ Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens. Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. $$ Dawne Smaki (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel. 22 465 83 20, dawnesmaki.pl At last, a proper restaurant on Nowy Świat! The interiors hark to the past, while the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around till summer just to see it. The menu sees Polish dishes modernized while being treated with competence and respect. Recommended: deer steak. $$

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Pl. Grzybowski 2, open: 9.00 - 20.00 Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

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Delicja Polska (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion.

Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. $$ Dom Polski (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking.

When you need to give visitors a sense of

listings / restaurants classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. $$$ Dom Polski Belwederska (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. $$ Elixir by Dom Wódki (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. Chef Michał Tkaczyk has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. $$ Folk Gospoda (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. $$ Grunt i Woda Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej, gruntiwoda.waw.pl An appealing wood-framed construction with hard hitting cocktails and a thoughtful menu that utilizes ingredients grown in their own garden. Full review next issue. $$ Inny Wymiar ul. Świętokrzyska 14 Highly imaginative Polish cuisine served inside intriguing interiors. Much blogged about since opening, it’s been noted by many as one to watch. Full review coming soon. $$ Kafe Zielony Niedzwiedź (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 731 996 006, kafezn.pl The Green Bear has turned into the mothership for all things relating to slow food: if in doubt, check the menu, an ode to provenance that comes complete with detailed biographies

of their suppliers. Using creative techniques, this restaurant modernizes Polish food and rolls it out inside a stylish building popular with people who look like they might well be famous. $$ Kieliszki na Próżnej (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. $$

STEAKHOUSE /BAR

Kmicic (D1) ul. Piwna 27, kmicicrestauracja.pl Aiming to evoke the spirit of pre-war Warsaw, Kmicic is something of a veteran on the Old Town circuit, and as such a perennial favorite of passing tourists. The menu leans heavily towards traditional and is noted for its game including pheasant, venison and boar. $$ Mała Polana Smaków (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Put simply, it works on every level: from the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. $$ BEST WAWA 2016 “Modern Polish” Opasły Tom (E4) ul. Foksal 17, kregliccy.pl Sneaked off a lively side street, guests duck down into a chain of two narrow-ish chambers that, whilst not exactly casual, feel comfortable and familiar.

Reliant on the freshest local ingredients around, this restaurant’s strategy places an onus on seasonality whilst remaining fiercely creative. $$ Papu (D9) al. Niepodległości 132/136, tel. 22 856

Nowogrodzka 47a www.beefandpepper.pl reservation: (+48) 785 025 025 Open 7 days a week Monday-Saturday: 12.00-24.00 Sunday: 12.00-23.00

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listings / restaurants 7788, restauracjapapu.pl Evoking the spirit of a gentleman’s manor, Papu looks every inch the classic Polish restaurant. Reliant on regional produce from mom & pop farmsteads, chef Bartek Kędra’s menu does a gold carat job of enhancing old-fashioned recipes through the use of modern techniques. $$

Restauracja Pod Gigantami (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in Dublin.

Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good. It’s here the Insider enjoyed it’s favorite żurek of 2016. For mains, don’t miss the duck with cherry and cranberry sauce. $$$ Restauracja Polska “Różana” (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center.

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. $$ Słoik (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful

ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditional-sounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you.

This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. $ Solec 44 (F4) ul. Solec 44, tel. 798 363 996, solec.waw. pl Solec 44 does nothing if not challenge gastronomic norms. Found on the upper floor of a shabby Communist pavilion, the versatility of this place makes it great to hang out with friends over beer and board games: it’s not often you find faces from the TV in the same room as student types, but that’s the kind of inclusive atmosphere here. The biggest draw though is the chef, Aleksander Baron. Combing the farms and forests of Poland for ingredients, his obsession with old baroque recipes, nose-to-tail cooking and forgotten fermentation processes is inspiring to all who adore cooking. $$

AUTHENTIC POLISH CUISINE

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64 tel. +48 22 826 4770 email. info@delicjapolska.pl www.delicjapolska.pl

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listings / restaurants

Specjały Regionalne (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 44, specjalyregionalne.pl To step across the threshold is to leave Warsaw behind: mimicking the look of a rural pantry, Specjały is awash with provincial craft work and traditional dress. A truly ethnographic journey, the menu whisks diners across

Poland with its choice of classic dishes and regional ingredients: there is heavy, meaty soup served in a hollowed out hunk of bread; snails farmed in Warmia; and a warming beef goulash that hugs the soul. The commitment to small town Poland extends to the alcohol, and no visit is complete without a stiffening drop of vodka. $$ Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl A classic restaurant

in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. $$ U Fukiera (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price

w

The award-winning Enoteka Polska welcomes guests to the heart of Warsaw’s historic New Town. A perfect combo of restaurant, wine bar and wine store, aside from offering excellent Italian cuisine, we are a renowned importer with a portfolio of prestigious wine labels from across Europe. Our direct import policy allows guests to enjoy outstanding value for money.

Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl tel. 882 048 012

PRESENTING THE MOST BEAUTIFUL RESTAURANT IN POLAND

Al. Ujazdowskie 24, tel. 22 629 2312, www.podgigantami.pl

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listings / restaurants brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. $$$

Zapiecek Locations inc. ul. Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, open 11:00-22:00, CH Arkadia, zapiecek. eu Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’.

It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by

servers dressed like saucy country maids. $

seafood

Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all.

Lokal na Rybę (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/lokalnarybe Seafood doesn’t play a particularly distinguished role in Warsaw’s culinary history, so the opening of a good fish restaurant tends to get the locals talking. But Lokal isn’t just good, it goes several steps beyond. Open just three days a week (Thu-Sat, evenings only), the rotating menu presents a handful of daily choices against a simple, no pretence interior that’s often packed solid – reservations come recommended, as do the mussel dishes. $$

Zielnik (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. $$

U Rysia (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked,

THE DELICIOUS WORLD OF POLISH CUISINE Discover the delicious world of Polish cuisine at Specjały Regionalne. We source our produce from family-run farms so only the most authentic tastes end up on your table. We also offer classes and workshops that reveal the secrets of the Polish pantry!

44 Nowy Swiat Street, Warsaw +48 662 254 215 restauracja@specjalyregionalne.pl, www.specjalyregionalne.pl

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listings / restaurants steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. $

present in three other locations: check their web for details.

specialty food shops

steak houses

Bazar Olkuska (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg.

Befsztyk ul. Puławska 176/178, tel. 22 843 6110, befsztyk.pl The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994.

Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, gluten-free smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend.

Bio Bazar (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, tel. 22 318 8855, open Wed, Fri & Sat (see website for details), biobazar.org.pl Fruit and veg in the first warehouse, some of it imported from as far as Argentina. In the second warehouse, find organic cheese varieties from sheep and goats, as well as import brands from Italy, France and the Netherlands.

Forteca Kregliccy ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

Targ Śniadaniowy Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also

Beef n’ Pepper (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak. $$ Butchery & Wine (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. $$

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 603 778 275, hoza. warszawa.pl Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. $$ Merliniego 5 (E10) ul. Merliniego 5, tel. 22 646 0810, merliniego5.pl A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market. On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / restaurants rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime. Simply amazing. $$$

Salto (C6) ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl When Martin Gimenez Castro scooped top prize in the Top Chef program it simply confirmed what foodies had known for years: that this is a man of some talent. Now leading the kitchen in Salto, the highlight of Castro’s menu is undoubtedly the ‘steak weekends’. We challenge you to find better.

During the week opt instead for his South American inspired dishes. Salto has the hallmarks of a success story, and under Castro’s captaincy that’s a certainty to happen. $$$ BEST WAWA 2015 “Foreign Chef”

thai Thai Thai (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below.

As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! $$

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Thaisty (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty. pl The coup here has been the recruitment of Chanunkan Duangkumma, Warsaw’s favorite Thai chef. The menu has street food inspirations and also includes several recipes passed down Duangkumma’s family line: consider the BBQ beef skewers essential.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day. $$ Why Thai (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai. pl A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. $ Wi-Taj (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4 Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30.

vegan & wholefood Dżungla ul. Dereniowa 2 Dżungla presents two Warsaw trends and unites them under one roof: craft beer and vegan food. They might sound like they make for odd bedfellows, but there’s nothing wrong with the results.

Despite the panda motif and Asian-style wood-clad interior, the menu’s focus is wider than imagined and includes some rather interesting meat-free skewers to enjoy. $$ Edamame Vegan Sushi (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing belowpar fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc.

The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. $$ Lokal Vegan Bistro (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. $

Restaurant Słoik ul. Złota 11 (Pasaż Wiecha) kontakt@restauracjasloik.pl +48 600 396 688

RESTAURANT

www.restauracjasloik.pl facebook.com/restauracja.sloik instagram.com/sloik_zlota_11

COCKTAILBAR

DJ EVERY WEEKEND

BREAKFAST

HOMEMADE DUMPLINGS

Restaurant Si ul. Marszałkowska 115 kontakt@restauracjasi.pl +48 507 099 190

www.restauracjasi.pl facebook.com/restauracjaSi instagram.com/restauracja_Si

HOMEMADE PASTA AND ITALIAN DISHES LIVE MUSIC

EVENTS

ORGANIC & VEGAN WINES

COCKTAILS

DJ EVERY WEEKEND

COMPLIMENTARY BREAKFAST WITH EVERY HOT BEVERAGE

Restaurant Secado ul. Marszałkowska 66 kontakt@secado.com.pl +48 608 707 799

RESTAURANT

www.secado.com.pl facebook.com/SECADO instagram.com/restauracja_secado

COCKTAILBAR

BUSINESS LUNCH

CORPORATE DINNER

DJ EVERY WEEKEND

cafes & wine bars NEW & NOTABLE

bakeries Aromat (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/piekarnia.aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page.

Café Vincent (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around.

SWEET MOMENTS (ul. Stawki 2A, cukierniasweetmoments.pl) With the onset of summer comes the annual shootout over Warsaw’s best ice cream – add Sweet Moments to the list of credible contenders. Although the choice is far from comprehensive, the quality is first rate: made using natural ingredients, everything they offers seems to hit the spot (if in doubt, look for the kibana, a tasty marriage of kiwi and banana). Find also an assembly of homemade cakes, cookies, pastries and donuts.

Charlotte (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out.

Krucza 23 Café & Bakery (D5) ul. Krucza 23, fb.com/krucza23 There’s lots of organic activity on the menu, plus an exciting spread of eco-coffee from far-flung nations. Find all this done in a post-industrial interior that makes use of lots of concrete and natural light.

Monique Bakery & Wine (D5) ul. Krucza 41/43, moniquebakery.pl Reports have been hit and miss about Monique, with some citing spotty service and heavy handed prices. Even so, their baguettes and croissants are fine.

LOKAL DELA KREM (ul. Hoża 27A) From the owners of the much lauded Lokal Vegan Bistro comes the altogether sweeter Dela Krem. Specializing in vegan cakes and assorted pastries and desserts, it’s already well on the way to becoming the cult hit of summer. Using fructose and / or xylitol in place of sugar, this tiny operation is further evidence of the city’s growing role as the vegan capital of Central Eastern Europe. And rightly so – the cupcakes are irresistible.

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Paul Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Petit Appetit (E6) ul. Mokotowska 45 The smell of freshly-baked loaves often wafts into the street, leaving passers-by with no option but to peer in – sweet temptation. And sweet is the right word: aside from divine baguettes check the

listings / cafés & wine bars

Qki ul. Topiel 19 & ul. Belgradzka 14, qki.waw. pl QKI is the work of two sisters (in-law!) with a passion for the sweeter things in life.

Shunning shortcuts and artifical nasties, cookies, cakes and pastries comprise the bulk of the offer here.

000 634, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy.

Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Aside from baguettes, muffins, croissants, etc. this smart corner unit has a superb wine list and a smattering of main courses that include flat iron steak.

Być Może (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, tel. 519 000 014, bycmoze. com.pl It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself and a little more normal.

SAM many locations, sam.info.pl Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality.

Cafe & Lounge Bar But Good Music First ul. Rydygiera 13 Looking back, it’s been a pretty static year where the cafe scene is concerned. But away from the depressingly familiar sight of a new Starbucks or Costa, there have been some glimmers of hope: the impossibly long name aside, noteworthy features of this suburban star number a stunning David Bowie mural by the street artist Skuha, and an interior composed of raw concrete finishes and beautiful lighting.

pastries and brioches.

Zdrowa Konkurencja (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, zdrowakonkurencja.pl Aside from piping hot, fresh wheels of bread, visitors are popping in to collect readymade bagels and sandwiches loaded with pulled pork, pastrami and other quick bites.

cafés Blikle (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 35, blikle.pl There’s a cultured, pre-war look to Blikle, a proud cafe with a 100-year history. Famous former clients include Charles de Gaulle who swore by their donuts.

Bubbleology (D4) ul. Chmielna 26, bubbleology.pl Looking like a 26th century version of Willy Wonka’s factory (psychedelic colors, Japanese lettering, and doors marked Top Secret), this place is no ordinary café. But that’s down to the drinks, rather than the décor. Warsaw’s original bubble tea stop offers an arsenal of fruit flavors concocted by zany-looking lab-coated staff.

Bułkę przez Bibułkę ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, tel. 794

Café Iluzja (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, afeiluzja.pl Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema.

Café Lorentz (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 3, cafelorentz.pl Set at the front of the National Museum this place has a nice indoor area with high ceilings and minimalist decorations and a green outdoor area populated by wickers chairs and hammocks (obviously, depending on the season).

As is the rage in Warsaw, the menu is light, natural and healthy.

Cava (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 30, cava.pl A prime spot on Nowy Świat’s red carpet keeps business brisk in this high-end cafe. Premium Jamaican Blue Mountain coffee available, and best enjoyed on a seasonal terrace that can barely be bettered for its people spotting opportunities.

Charlotte Menora (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious.

And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are pretty good.

Coffee Karma (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place. Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee.

Cophi (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60 So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world.

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling.

Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. Whatever the secret ingredient is, the bookish bustle makes it the most extraordinary literary hangout in the Polish capital.

Etno Cafe (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 87, etnocafe.pl Having already made a big noise in Wrocław, Etno have landed in Warsaw with quite a reputation to uphold. This they do in style thanks to superb pure Arabica from Ethiopia as well as brews from Kenya, Rwanda, El Salvador and Brazil. The cold brew coffee stands to become a lifesaver once the weather gets sweaty.

Filtry Café (A6) ul. Niemcewicza 3, filtrycafe.pl Filtry Cafe’s got great coffee, fruit shakes, cakes, and light breakfasts combined with a funky fleapit atmosphere that attracts hipster art lovers.

Kafka Café (E3) ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / cafés & wine bars on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants.

Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt.

warming café is steeped in shadow and curiosities. A celebration of pre-war Warsaw, the literary pretensions of this bolthole find the walls clad with archaic books and sepia photos of the city that once was. May places like this flourish.

Kawiarnia Fabryczna (E3) ul. Fabryczna 28/30, open 7:30-22:00, kawiarniafabryczna.pl Penning your memoirs?

Here’s the place to do so. With its natural wood floors, muted lighting and retro style chairs, Fabryczna is just about the definitive Powiśle café. Order an Ethiopian drip coffee and get that notepad out.

Matcha Tea House (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient.

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49, klubokawiarnia.net Urban cool penetrates Saska. With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors. Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay.

Ministerstwo Kawy (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27, ministerstwokawy.pl Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence. Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate in this standout cafe.

Kos (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well. Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, award-winning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. Find it inside the Jewish Community Center.

Krem (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 18 A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retro-styled mirrors. A place of hip sophistication and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes.

Mała Ziemiańska (D7) ul. Oleandrów 2/4, malaziemianska.pl Sat as it is on a street that’s become the Center of Now, Mała Ziemiańska is a pleasing throwback to slower times. Designed to evoke the artistic spirit of the mid-19th century, this

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MiTo (D6) ul. Waryńskiego 28, mito.art.pl Café, gallery, bookstore. Of course, we’ve seen that concept before, just not done in this style. Stark white backgrounds are offset by edgy art, lending the place a Tate Modern feel, something accentuated by the earnest fashion students who gather through the day. And there’s the toilet, a futuristic affair with piped music and a mirrored wall.

Monsieur Leon (E8) ul. Sulkiewicza 5 Found resting on the corner of a quiet residential street, Monsieur Leon is surely one of Mokotów’s best kept secrets.

Here, simplicity is the name of the game, with a brief blackboard menu that involves cheese boards, salads and a hefty croque monsieur. With wine tipping down and conversation wafting around this compact, casual space, it doesn’t take a giant leap of imagination to think yourself in France.

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli (D5) ul. Krucza 17 A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams,

spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home.

Odette Tearoom (C4) ul. Twarda 4, odette.pl If you thought those living in Warsaw’s swankiest residential tower – the Cosmopolitan – had it tough, then you’ve got one more reason to envy them: the ground floor Odette Tearoom. Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul.

Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere.

Relaks (E9) ul. Puławska 48 Generally travelling by tram for a cup of Joe sounds excessive, but that’s exactly what you’ll be doing on discovering Relaks. Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait.

The interiors supply a retro accent, and are lapped up by a very fashion aware crowd.

Resort (C2) ul. Bielańska 1 The main talking point here is a design that utilizes shopping trollies and street signs to serve as chairs and tables, and a pile of second-hand books to form the bar – there’s even a sofa constructed from a bathtub! Themes of recycling are taken to the limit in Resort, yet for all that it never looks junky or cheap. Concerts and comedy nights keep business ticking on quieter days.

Same Fusy ul. Nowomiejska 10 Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time. Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood.

Secret Life ul. Słowackiego 15/19 You might already be familiar with Secret Life of Things, a fab design store on the other end of town. Now the same minds have expanded their offer to include this café, a delightful spot that opened in summer. The deckchairs outside may have gone but the hype lingers on: an eclectic design marries a Scandinavian look to an eccentric spirit, while unpasteurized beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu do the rest.

listings / cafés & wine bars Stor (E3) ul. Tamka 33 Small but perfectly formed, Stor has all the clack and clatter of a busy local café. Regional beers, Chemex and Aeropress coffee and gluten-free snacks and sandwiches provide plenty of reason to pop in and idle about.

Wars i Sawa (E3) ul. Dobra 14/16 Creaking floorboards, unfinished plastering and piles of books set the tone to this ‘culture café’. It’s exactly what you’d expect of Powiśle, and the sort of stop best enjoyed on your own with a pot of tea, a dog-eared novel and your tightest skinny jeans.

Wrzenie Świata (E4) ul. Gałczyńskiego 7 Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars.

desserts Crepe Café (E3) ul. Dobra 19 Is there such a thing as the perfect pancake? If not, then Crepe Café certainly comes close. Enjoy them in a contemporary interior that’s tiny in size: grab a seat up on the mezzanine level.

Cukiernia Stary Dom ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom. pl A beautifully elegant confectionary that evokes memories of Old Poland. Flock wallpaper and checkered floors add to the high tea ambience, as do the lines of glinting bottles and a counter stocked with temptations. Pastry chef Mariusz Palarczykow is a king in his field.

Miodowa Cafe (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, miodowa-cafe.pl Gone are the days when Warsaw’s dessert / pastry shops were communist relics overseen by half-mad old bats. The rise of upscale dessert stores continues unchecked with the

latest, Cukiernia Miodowa, possibly the most exciting launch thus far. Offering five-course ‘dessert tasting menus’, truffles, tarts, pralines and Warsaw’s first cronut, expect to be hearing a lot about this operation in the coming few months.

MOD (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8 Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. Top tip: the Mango is heaven.

Odette (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl Almost holistic in its ambience, the obstacle-free interior utilizes aspects of space and light, causing attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glimmer behind glass like precious little gems.

Sucre Various locations, see: sucre.pl While Sucre

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listings / cafés & wine bars are best known for their ice cream, outside of summer people flock here on account of their dazzling macaroons.

Warszawski Lukier (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7 Looking pretty in pink, there’s a fun and feminine vibe that goes beyond just a quirky design that features rose colored swings. The desserts are hardcore food porn, and include Lukier’s signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color.

Juice Press People ul. Bracka 18 Sick and tired of being sick and tired? This two-level cubbyhole offers an easy way to cleanse and detox the body: cold-pressed from organic, locally sourced fruit and veg, find an array of juices lined up on parade in the fridge, as well as a variety of coffees that make use of chemix, aeropress and drip techniques.

ice cream

wine bars

La Maison ul. Chłodna 15 The pedestrian choice of flavors mark this out as one for the traditionalists, nonetheless, the quality is outstanding. Must try: pink grapefruit.

Ale Wino! (E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl At first you think you’re walking into a car park. And then, it hits you – a beautiful inner-city sanctum with wooden decking, a slanted sail shielding the sun, and bespoke, funky chairs from the esteemed Studio Rygalik. You want to dwell here for a bit longer than planned: and there’s no harm in doing so. One of the Insider’s favorite wine bars, Ale Wino’s food is also top-notch

Bristol Wine Bar (D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmiescie 42/44 Effortlessly evoking a real sense of history, the design is a triumph with lots of polished brass and nickel, rich wood finishes and marble floors. You feel like you’ve stepped into a film. And the wine choice is prodigious: offering a complete cruise through the wines of the Old Continent and the New World, the collection is precisely presented from behind glass cases that line the walls.

Limoni Canteri 1952 various locations, lodziarnielimoni.pl Traditional gelato matched against oddities such as cucumber, beer and, even, ice cream for your dog!

Lody Prawdziwe Numerous locations inc. Nowy Świat 22 A legitimate contender for the best ice cream in town – just wait for the cherry season for an ice cream to die for.

Nitro Lody ul. Zwycięzców 11 This venture specializes in ice cream frozen with liquid nitrogen by lab-coated staff: the whole process ensures your ice cream is smoother than a pane of glass.

Sucre various locations, sucre.pl Others get the headlines for their gimmicky flavors, Sucre prefer to keep it simple. That works in their favor: there’s no better natural ice cream in Warsaw.

juice bars Corona Sok i Mus ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Inconspicuous by its size, this pit stop consists of nothing more than a counter and display fridge, yet already its carved a 24-carat reputation for cold-pressed juices and small, jarred mousses. Made using local seasonal fruit and veg, then topped with superfoods

and spices, the quality of Corona’s products have made it a standout.

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Charlotte (D6) ul. Aleja Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl.

Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com It matters not if you’re easily traumatized by the catwalk parade that is Charlotte. Open from seven on weekdays, it’s the place for a morning croissant. And if you’re armed with the latest Apple technology, all the better – join the other posers at the communal table. Located on Warsaw’s most happening roundabout, there’s no better place to indulge a hangover with a spot of eavesdropping than inside this boulangerie/wine bar.

Dekant Wine Bar (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground

(Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace.

Dyletanci (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice.

Enoteka (D1) Rynek Nowego Miasta 13/15, enotekapolska.pl It’s the wine bar New Town has been waiting for ever since… the old Enoteka closed. The eagerly awaited return brings with it a new location – right on the corner of New Town Square and a wine list from curated by importer Maciej Bomboł.

Hoża (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza.warszawa.pl You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds.

Kieliszki Na Hożej ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list. The concise food menu connects local Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist.

Mielżyński Wine Bar (A1) ul. Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire.

Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool.

nightlife NEW & NOTABLE

THE TAPS (ul. Sienkiewicza 4) No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial / loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. The taps themselves, 16 in all, dispense a decent array of drinks hailing from Poland, Germany, Belgium and beyond.

WARSZAWSKI FLIP (Al. Niepodległości 147) Bar, restaurant or club? While it’s hard to specifically pigeon hole Flip into either category, its finest hours definitely arrive come the evening. High on feel-good factor, this dark den has a lively ambiance and a crowd that’s refreshingly free of city center cocky smugness. The availability of typically Polish drinking bites negate the need for a post-pub kebab, while weekend DJs keep the party bouncing till the early hours.

bars & pubs 8 Dzień Tygodnia ul. Poznańska 7 Though the owners remain the same, the unit that once housed Kwadrat couldn’t be more different: no longer a grungey, shadowy space, it’s been rebooted with lots of brash, bursts of color, strings of fairy lights and pops of modern art. What’s not been lost is the amiable sense of gentle chaos: buoyed by a quirky beer selection and fun music policy, this remains one of the friendliest venues in the parish.

The Alchemist (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks.

2Koła ul. Tunelowa 2B Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly.

Bar Gemba (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52 Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. Replacing the oddly downcast Jedna Trzecia, Gemba slots in well amongst the other post-hipster bars in the area.

Bar Studio (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions.

Bazar (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13 There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing.

Beirut (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl As hip as ever, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank.

Bierhalle Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (Arkadia), ul. Nowy Świat 64, ul. Marszałkowska 55/73, bierhalle. pl Having tapped their first beer eight years back, this microbrewery has morphed into a national phenomenon with outposts across

the country. All three Warsaw locations have a cut/paste Bavarian atmosphere, hefty wooden fittings and waitresses dressed like mountain frauleins. The drinks themselves are formulaic and nothing special.

many labels that are exclusive to Poland.

Some come with terrifying prices, but on the whole the price points are widely accessible: wine from zł. 10 and a flute of champers from zł. 29.

Bohemia (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl As welcome as the global beer reformation has been, it has had its drawbacks: namely, the number of snobs and zealots found leering over pineapple stouts and impossible IPAs. Sometimes you just want a normal bar with good, clean lager. Bohemia is that place.

This is a Czech bar for modern times: stylish interiors of glass and wood and a so-called ‘tank system’ that maintains the beer’s freshness. Try the ‘Mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig.

Central Bar ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Downers include annoying piped music, chairs bolted to the ground and the overriding feeling you are, in fact, drinking in the middle of a food court. And why aren’t there any ashtrays outside? Only once you get your head around all of that can you start appreciating the Central Bar: the beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, and you do get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination.

Bollywood Lounge (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bollywood in full swing is quite a sight – find banging beats and an energetic club atmosphere complimented by the pungent pleasures of their sheesha pipes. The Sunday karaoke sessions are a hoot.

Bubbles (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Despite sounding like a 90s small town nightclub, Bubbles is in fact a worthy place of note: a small, warm venue with a slow food menu and a design that incorporates lots of upturned crates and dusty bottles.

Champagne is the main draw here, with

ENTER THE WORLD OF ROOM 13

ROOM13 is the heart of the club basin at the legendary Mazowiecka Street.

Perfect location in the center of Warsaw, modern interiors combined with historic architecture and top-class music - all these qualities make Room13 the best choice on the Warsaw’s club map.

The club is located in the 19th century tenement house in the heart of Warsaw.

The unconventional club has been adapted to represent the interiors of the pre-war company’s premises.

Opening hours: Thursday - Sunday 22nd - last guest

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Ceska (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Having promised to never return following an incident with a nincompoop waiter, we’ve done exactly the opposite… and become regulars! Views of scantily-clad shoppers wiggling down the street are one attraction, though the biggest is the Czech ‘tank’ pouring system. Order the mliko, a beer that’s all creamy froth that you can sink down in seconds.

Elephant Belgian Pub (C1) ul. Freta 19 Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all.

Grizzly Gin Bar (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets, while the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters.

Serving their own ‘Grizzly lager’ as well as numerous cocktails based on different craft gins, it’s fast becoming the latest night in the area.

Hard Rock Cafe (C5) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe. pl Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC

listings / nightlife is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn

by Madonna.

Kameralna (E4) ul. Foksal 11, kameralnafoksal.pl With a militia truck outside, and interiors that feature cutlery by Społem and 70s newspapers on the walls, you’d be right to think we’ve got another venue that celebrates the past. Looking vast and comfortingly cluttered, Kameralna is both a restaurant and a nightspot – brewing their own beer, the house lagers are fine but formulaic.

Karmnik (D2) ul. Piwna 4A, karmnik.waw.pl Close to sinking into dive bar territory, Karmnik have rejigged their interior, added a list of flashy cocktails and recruited a few DJs to give the place a pre-club spirit. As revamps go it’s been entirely successful, with the only sticking point (sometimes literally), being the unisex toilet. The origami birds hanging from the ceiling, btw, are a reference to the post-war period when an old lady who fed the pigeons took-up brief residence in the ruins of where you now drink.

Kraken Rum Bar (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography.

While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The house beer rocks though.

Legends (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl Legends is slowly achieving legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches like a segregated smoking room, proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut.

Lolek (A8) ul. Rokitnicka 20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanal spirit and a park-centered location. Strangers squish together on shaky benches while sausages grill over an open

fire inside this classic rough-and-ready drinkery. Catch it at its best in summer when the outdoor seating is thronged.

Między Nami (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe.com With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal.

asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia.

Decorated with plastic black crows, a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf.

Plan B (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb. pl Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26 Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party.

Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot.

Oleandrów 3 (D6) ul. Oleandrów 3, fb.com/oleandrow3 Exploring themes of decadence and fallen splendor, this new opening cements Oleandrów’s status as one of Warsaw’s rising streets. Looking dark and disheveled, this busy nightspot is already earning a name for libertine shenanigans. The blackboard menu touts an unlikely combo of ‘hot dogs and champagne’ – watch others follow suit.

OSP Saka Kępa ul. Walecznych 74, ospsaskakepa.pl A little on the small side, the interior features several bits of Fireman Sam detritus: helmets, goggles, a uniform and some toy fire trucks (it’s in a fully functioning fire station!).

Państwo Miasto (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while autumn sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship.

Paradox (B1) ul. Anielewicza 2, paradox-cafe.pl Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome. The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic.

Polonez ul. Poznańska 24 Mysteriously closed in 2016, Polonez surprised everyone when – out of the blue – they announced they were back in the game earlier this year. Hip hip(ster) hooray! Merging raw with retro, sparse ‘neo milk bar’ chic is set against plenty of oddities, but the cool aesthetics only tell part of the story. This is a celebration of Poland, both old and new, with drinks that include obscure nalewki, craft local beers, bio beverages and regional tipples. The masterstroke comes in making this all feel international, contemporary and creative.

Rozrywki ul. Mazowiecka 6/8 After a couple of years during which it had started to feel a little like yesterday’s man, ul. Mazowiecka has had a resurgence and its sense of self restored.

Playing a part in this comeback is Rozrywki, a svelte bar with a clientele that values the importance of looking its best. Beyond the immediate appeal of the beauties and wannabes, the cocktails are the chief enticement and given star treatment by a competent staff who’ve been handed a quality set of tools with which to work with.

Sheesha Lounge (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights.

Solec 44 (F3) ul. Solec 44, solec.waw.pl A ghastly commieera pavilion is the unlikely home of this Powiśle mainstay. The food – a gloriously gory celebration of nose-to-tail cooking – is spot on, but so too are the drinks. The bottled beers reflect the exciting times in the Polish brewing industry, but forego these in favor of a stunning cocktail list that makes use of seasonal ingredients and homemade syrups and mixes. The design of Julian Karewicz, these are drinks that stop you in your tracks: the sea buckthorn vodka sour is pure boozy bliss.

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Stixx (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle down.

W Oparach Absurdu (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall.

There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests.

Warszawa Powiśle (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

Wisła Riverfront Bars Name-checked last year by The Guardian as having one of the top ten riverside scenes in Europe, the Wisła has gone from zero to hero.

A concerted clean-up and generous public funding have assisted the makeover, but so too have the bars and hangouts that have popped up like pimples. Home to dozens of bars and food trucks, the left side of the river is the place to be, particularly venues such as Barka, Pomost 511 and Cuda Nad Wisła.

clubs Luztro (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl Feeling naughty? Luztro enjoys a reputation for libertine behavior and illicit pharmaceuticals.

Dark, grim and grotty, this after party stalwart gets going at about 4 a.m. on weekends when troglodyte club creatures emerge zombie-like to dance way past sunrise. Jaw grinding, rib rattling electro has never felt better.

No Comment (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego Found in one of the towers that prop up Most Poniatowskiego, a ‘sense of unknown’ manifests itself inside this weekend’s only club, a bi-level area whose small size adds to the air of mystery and exclusivity. Away from the prying eyes of Joe Public, find glittery, local celebs getting down and naughty.

Room 13 (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene.

Sen Pszczoły ul. Grochowska 301/305, senpszczoly.pl Famous, infamous or a bit of both? Moving from their temporary digs in the Koneser Factory, the new-look Sen Pszczoły is every bit as murky as the previous: amid a heavy industrial background, find partygoers enjoying a mixed bag of events that range from didgeridoo performances to full-on techno that makes fillings pop out.

Smolna 38 (E4) ul. Smolna 38 One of the most secretive clubs there is: operating a strict no-pictures policy, being caught taking a selfie is a crime punished by expulsion – and how good is that! Attracting a hardcore crowd, its a place of real sounds: forget the joke DJs most clubs settle for, Smolna’s agenda has thus far included the likes of Simian Mobile Disco and Ellen Allien.

The View (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw.

A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache.

cocktails 6 Cocktails (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57 If 6 Cocktails has the

listings / nightlife feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts! Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite.

Bar & Books (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl Seen through a thin autumnal mist, this white THE MOST townhouse radiates warmth: lights glimmer, REFRESHINGLY CIVILIZED PLACES TO MEETtinkles. Wood-paneled and lined piano music & WHISKY withCIGARS leather-bound tomes, there’s a sense ≈ WINE & CHAMPAGNE of dignity that’s unique to Warsaw’s cocktail ≈ COCKTAILS & CUSINE humor, as well, courtesy of scene.

There’s ≈ TASTINGS portraits of chimps togged out like 18th ≈ PRIVATEgentry.

EVENTS Similar to a members’ century ≈ SHOOTS onlyLOCATION Mayfair bar, find ‘classic with a twist’ cocktails PODWALE BARmixed AND BOOKSand muddled by the sort Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw ofWąski charming bartenders you’d trust serving Tel.: +48 225.599.199 Bond. While bills can become weighty affairs, no one regrets the spend – plus, you can smoke here as well!

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Bar Wieczorny (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used withV equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big O L i n Y a P Tom, etc.).

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Biała ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij Expect highly individualized cocktails, a thoughtful menu and a glam, vamped up crowd every bit as beautiful as the place itself: set in a gloriously white inter-war villa, this is a place that oozes with sex appeal.

Once the outdoor drinking season begins,

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Charlie ul. Mokotowska 39 Arguably the best and boldest opening of the year, Charlie presents thrilling cocktails inside an interior that wouldn’t be amiss in Manhattan: there’s even a fountain! Being rich and pretty is almost a compulsory criteria.

Coctail Bar Max (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, barmax.pl Can you trust a cocktail bar that can’t even spell the word? In this case, yes! Max looks bright, cheerful and fully loaded for the sun, and also comes with a smoking alcove in the back stuffed with whisky and cigars. The cocktails are the main affair though, and here they’re extravagant efforts that resemble a tropical jungle in miniature form. Very popular with types that aspire to become footballers’ wives, etc.

Karowa 31 (D3) ul. Karowa 31, warsawbarproject.com Warsaw’s original speakeasy grants access via a retractable door disguised as a VHS collection – how cool is that!? Maze-like in layout, the retro-looking Karowa 31 unravels to reveal a series of chambers concealed in shadow, though for all that the cocktails are the real draw: masterful creations composed by a dreadlocked Dane called Bram.

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Bardziej (E5) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów) Its thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This split-level bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials. The later it gets, the better it is.

you’ll be lucky to find a better outdoor garden.

Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2017

Kita Koguta (E5) ul. Krucza 6/14 Free from the pompous prattery of Bar Max down the road, there are times in Kita Koguta where sitting at bar level is like watching Dexter’s Laboratory: the staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz.

Kiti Bar (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14 With Warsaw shivering blue in the harsh winter frost, is there a better time to be welcoming the city’s first tiki den? That’s Kiti, a raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta.

Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts.

Lazy Dog (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lazy-dog.pl While Lazy Dog isn’t exactly new, it does feel like it’s turned

over a new leaf – what was a good cocktail bar, it seems, has grown to become a very good one. Seeking inspiration from some of the world’s wackiest artworks, the cocktails aren’t just beautiful to look at, but damn good to drink... If there’s a highlight, that’s the ‘Fight Between A Tiger & A Buffalo’, a spicy, tropical creation complete enveloped in a thick billowing mist.

Na Lato (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, na-lato.com Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room – though with summer on the way, the outdoor terrace is the place to be soon.

Palmier (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Here, class and high times are in abundance inside an interior that’s all cool stone and pot palms. But it’s the narrow terrace that promises to be the place to be seen: join and enjoy the ‘Warsaw scene’ alongside a crowd that’s been compared to a Ralph Lauren billboard (even Robert Lewandowski has been spied here!).

Ritual (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com High on good looks and self-confidence, Ritual is the kind of bar / club crossover that modern Warsaw just can’t do without. Catapulting Mazowiecka back into the spotlight, Ritual’s door selection is cut-throat and ensures only the cream of the capital make it through the door. With entry bagged, enjoy beautiful cocktail creations and a program of live music that ranges from jazz and rock to more clubby sounds at the weekend.

Open from Weds through to Sat, it’s a swish address marketed at a very specific type.

The Roots (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11 Cluttered with shiny props and pieces rescued from the early days of cocktail making, The Roots could pass for a Victorian era curiosity shop. Looking past the eccentricities that comprise the interior, it’s become famous on account of irresistible drinks mixed and muddled by dapper experts that aren’t so much barmen as they are craftsmen.

Weles (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl A swing

listings / nightlife of the door takes visitors plunging down a blacked-out stairwell and into a basement that emerges from the darkness like a decadent Tsarist relic: glinting chandeliers glimmer over deep leather sofas, their subtle light casting a glow over an immaculate clientele. Befitting the venue, the artisanal cocktails are a work of elaborate craftsmanship, and incorporate everything from elite liquors to strips of bacon and flower petals.

At weekends this place rocks when DJ Trent gets onto the decks.

BROUGHT TO YOU BY BARDZIEJ

Woda Ognista (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes.

craft beer Artezan Pub (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Browar Artezan’s flagship pub is a compulsory visit for all beer aficionados. The beer is the magnetic force with eight taps blasting out pacesetter tipples from this brewery’s portfolio. The Pacific is the Insider’s all-time favorite.

BrewDog Warszawa (D4) ul. Widok 8 BrewDog don’t get everything right: at one stage last summer, it seemed like they were upping their prices every other weekend. But while it’s true it’s not the cheapest pint in Warsaw, there’s a feel good factor here that manifests itself inside interiors that rock and beers that go BOSH. Of all the craft beer bars that have swept into Warsaw, this is the one that feels the most international, inclusive and bloody good fun.

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw. pl With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most

BARDZIEJ’S HOMEMADE DRAUGHT SPRITZ

For many years summer drinking has meant prosecco, beer and cider, so maybe it’s time for something new? This summer BARDZIEJ have a unique alternative for you, namely an original, herbal / citrus cocktail called No. 1. To make it we’ve infused brandy with fennel and chardonnay with herbs then given these mixtures time to allow the bar magic happen. Having mixed them in a keg we then serve from a tap on ice with fresh citrus and thyme. Not only is this set to be our No.1 drink, it’ll also be yours – enjoy it on a warm, summer evening in our unique seasonal garden. Pop in and check it out.

Visit us this month for more unique summer thrills... ul. Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from ul. Oleandrów), tel. 22 118 2743, www.bardziejbar.pl www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / nightlife exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons!

Cuda Na Kiju (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary.

Cyderia ul. Poznańska 16 Looking cool and current, it’s not just the aesthetic touches and cosmetic kisses that make Cyderia special.

The real cause for visiting is a choice of seven or so ciders, mainly sourced from small Polish farmsteads and artisan producers.

Cześć (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers.

Czeska Baszta (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl Halfway up one of the Harry Potter turrets that support Poniatowski Bridge, find divey Czeska engulfed in a murky yellow glow. Boisterous but friendly, the ace up their sleeve is a brilliant assembly of Czech craft beer.

Drugie Dno ul. Nowogrodzka 4 To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets

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disguised as elevator shafts.

Gorączka Złota (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl Founded in 1996, Złota’s longevity is to be admired, even if the interiors aren’t. Small, dark and a little pungent, the interiors are rendered out of little more than varnished wood and hundreds of beer coasters. But that’s the clue! The secret of their success is down to the beer. Stocking a range of regional and craft beer (Ale Browar, Pinta, Kormoran, AltenMunster, Olbracht, etc.), this unfashionable bar has an underlying honesty that makes it a success.

Jabeerwocky (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere.

Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider.

Kufle i Kapsle (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl All levels of drinkers are catered for in this raw-looking space, from those ready to pay nosebleed prices for beers with spaceships on the label, right the way down to novices taking their first baby steps in the world of craft booze. Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the spell of spillage.

Unisex toilets, meaning there’s usually one idiotka putting a spanner in the queue code.

Same Krafty (D1) ul. Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. That this happens in such an amicable venue makes it all the better, particularly in winter when drinkers squash in to seek solace from the frostbitten streets.

for gentlemen Playhouse (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl Not here gorilla gangsters on the door or pushy girls doing the rounds (“buy me drinky drinky”).

Instead, Playhouse models itself on the top class mega clubs such as Spearmint Rhino,

and the result is a subterranean space removed from the sleaze and murk usually associated with the industry. But you want to know what the girls are like, yeah? Let the fact askmen.com voted it their favorite strip in the world speak for itself.

live music Chwila (B3) ul. Ogrodowa 31/35 Entered under a red, cabaret-style awning, Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger.

Eufemia (D3) Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 (enter via ul. Niżyńskiego) Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished with VHS tapes, student artwork and furniture looted from your grandparents dining room. The claustrophobic atmosphere lends itself well to intimate gigs that see everything from improvised instrumentals to bands called Graveyard Drug Party.

Hydrozagadka ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool.

Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here.

Pardon, To Tu (E9) ul. Madalinskiego 10/16 Found until recently on Pl. Grzybowski, the gentrification of the center recently saw the demolition of Pardon’s original HQ. Undeterred, the team behind Warsaw’s most experimental live music venue have revived their role in a temporary summer space outside Mokotów’s Nowy Teatr. Strung with fairy lights, this outdoor jumble of furniture comes alive in a magic swirl of innovative sound once live bands step on the stage.

shopping accessories Bursztynek Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co The largest amber jewellery store in Warsaw, though in addition to that visitors can also purchase unique amber-related souvenirs as well as more classic gifts associated with Poland.

SUNGLASSES FOR SUMMER 4EYES (ul. Chmielna 4 & Kondratowicza 45, 4eyes.pl) Operating since 1999, the offer at 4Eyes is about as comprehensive as it gets. Available brands – and there are many – include Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Fendi and Celine.

For a bargain, check the ‘sales’ info online: deals inc. Alessandro Dell glasses slashed from zł. 1,190 to zł. 299.

AURORE (various locations, aurore.pl) Three spots in Warsaw, with brands including Michael Kors, Oakley, Miu Miu and Persol. Of note, Aurore state they’re open to negotiate prices, and are also happy to courier over sunglasses so you can try before you buy.

BUTIK OPTIQUE (various locations, fb.com/butikoptique) There’s a chance you might find a larger Ray Ban and Oakley collection in Warsaw, but it’s slim. Offering the latest collections of both, this authorized dealer has a stalwart reputation.

PERFECT VISION (various locations, pvision.pl) Seven branches around Warsaw, with outlets dealing Tag Hauer, Max Mara and Bvlgari among numerous other brands. Highly professional service, with sunglasses for all occasions: whether it’s a sporty look you’re after, or something elegant and classic, you’ll likely find it here.

PINGLE OPTYK (pictured) (ul. Hoża 40, pingleoptyk.pl) Accessorize for summer with a trip to Pingle, a hip store stocking everything from the classic and classy to the bold and audacious. Brands include Cheap Monday, Versace, Prada Eyewear, Ray Ban and Oscar Magnuson with prices starting at zł. 300 and climbing in excess of zł. 1,000.

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Hard Rock Cafe ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl No wardrobe is complete without the iconic Hard Rock t-shirt! Find the Warsaw-stamped version available here, along with other extras for the all American look.

Horn&More ul. Chopina 5B, hornandmore.com On-trend concept store specializing in hard-to-find, deluxe brands: scents from Comme Des Garcons, jewlery from Le Petit Trou, cosmetics from DrLipp, candles from Fornasetti, as well as a wide range of other brands and products.

Ideal for that gift for someone.

Schubert ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter?

fashion Ania Kuczyńska ul. Mokotowska 61 Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories.

EM Cashmere Boutique ul. Szczygla 8, emcashmere.pl Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years.

A truly beautiful find with the clothes offer supplemented with shoes and accessories.

listings / shopping

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com Brands: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon.

Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2

Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants.

Reykjavik District ul. Burakowska 15, tel. 501 399 222, reykjavikdistrict.com Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal.

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, tel. 603 767 574, mysia3.pl Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more.

malls & department stores Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, tel. 22 541 4141, galeriamokotow.com.pl Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, tel. 22 531 4500 klif.pl Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko.

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, tel. 22 204 0499, placunii.pl

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7313 Vitkac was made for with a credit card blitz in mind.

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

Finish with dinner in the top floor Concept 13.

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, tel. 22 222 2200, zlotetarasy.pl Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club.

The Amber Heart of Warsaw

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PASSION FOR PORCELAIN

The subject of increasing attention and acclaim, Polish porcelain has joined the forefront of the nation’s design revolution...

What should a foreigner know about Polish porcelain?

Poland’s porcelain tradition dates back to the 18th century and the time of August II Wettin: he wasn’t just the King of Poland, but also the patron of Meissen and the most important porcelain collector of the time. The first porcelain factory was established in 1838 and other factories soon followed in Lower Silesia. Through the 1930s Polish porcelain was influenced by the Art Deco style, while the 50s and 60s were defined by the New Look. Contemporary artists have continued this strong tradition through closely liaising with both designers and manufacturers.

What aesthetic do you wish to present?

Porcelanowa’s mission is to present ceramics that express the personality of the artist as well as the conceptual and physical efforts that went into the creation of the final object. The object’s design should be based on function, but also unique. Most objects are quite affordable, not much higher than mass produced items, however, our ceramics are always designed and signed by a known artist, and often handmade by him/her. We spend a lot of time talking to our artists, learning about their inspirations, materials and forms – we strive to share this knowledge with our clients so that they buy not just a product, but also its history.

How do you choose which designers to represent?

Originally we started with big manufacturers, selecting the more artistic design lines in their offer. Now we’ve discovered numerous smaller, private manufacturers at different design festivals – for instance, the winner of the Must Have festival in Łódź, and the Polish representative of the Expo in Milan. As we’re the first Polish porcelain showroom in Warsaw, we also get many artists contacting us directly.

How do you view the relationship between form

and function?

Most of the products we sell are functional objects of everyday use, however, we do also present artistic objects with exceptional forms – for example, works

by Monika Patuszyńska that have been designed for Peter Marino of Maison Guerlain. We also have vases by Malwina Konopacka that have been exhibited and awarded in Milan, Marseilles and New York. Polish contemporary design has been inspired by the Northern European/Nordic style. In parallel, our artists’ continue to be fascinated with the Polish New Look of the ‘50s and ‘60s. At the same time, the availability of top class kaolinite, clay, and other materials and technical solutions has given our artists an unprecedented freedom and an opportunity to express their vision in countless styles and forms.

Where does Polish design stand in the modern world?

Polish design finds itself increasingly recognized around the world. In 2017 we received 13 Red Dot Design Awards and our artists are present at all of the important international exhibitions. At Porcelanowa we showcase practically all of the objects that have entered the manufacturing stage, though we also have space for young, independent artists trying to find their place in the contemporary world and make effective use of their access to global education and markets. Nowadays Polish designers and craftsmen study in the best schools in England, which remains the center of European porcelain, or the Netherlands and other such places. The fact that objects by the likes of Aoomi, Krafla and Fenek, which are available in our gallery, can also be bought in Amsterdam or Copenhagen says much for the status of Polish design.

Porcelanowa ul. Kredytowa 2, porcelanowa.com www.warsawinsider.pl

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family activities The Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56 & ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 45, tel. 22 842 0728, thelittlegym.eu Expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Not only a great place for children, but tailored to a comfortable and relaxing stay for parents as well.

education preschools

THE BIG PARTY I read recently that Poles now spend as much on communions as they do on weddings, and while those kind of price tags make me dizzy I can understand parents wanting to do something memorable on their child’s special day. Obviously, that also includes birthdays...

Asked what she wanted to do for hers my daughter modestly replied that she just wanted to share a cake with her friends round at our apartment. Simple enough you’d think, but my eyes widened at the thought of having a dozen pre-schoolers running rampant about the flat; all of a sudden I realized the value of those pizza / party places back in the States like Chuck E. Cheese’s. Thinking more rationally though, my wife suggested using Skakanka, a firm that specializes in organizing kids parties and other similar events.

Having contacted them for an offer they responded pretty much immediately: although rates vary depending on time and numbers, they still break down quite simply – supervised parties of up to 12 children cost zł.

150 for an hour, zł. 250 for two and zł. 300 for three hours. Parties for 13 to 20 kids, on the other hand, would require the attendance of a second animator (the Polish word for ‘carer / supervisor’) and are priced at zł. 230 / 400 / 480 for one to three hours. Additional costs are applied if special activities (balloon making, face painting, etc.) are requested.

With professional help taking care of everything, the news that they didn’t have to stick around for an afternoon was an unexpected bonus for all the parents of my daughter’s friends. Likewise, it also meant that my wife and I could also kick back in the next door room with the papers and the laptop, safe in the knowledge that everyone was a winner.

Skakanka skakanka.com.pl, fb.com/skakankacompl

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American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School Early Years Centre ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl The Early Years Foundation Stage is where a lifetime of learning begins. The British School, Warsaw provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery

listings / family (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, preschool@canadian-school. pl, canadian-school.pl Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of our admissions are international students.

Our dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. Our program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. We also provide a wide variety of after-school clubs. The pre-school is located in the heart of Mokotów, in the vicinity of Park Dreszera in a large villa with a wonderful garden.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have 3 green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy.

Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. Call to make an appointment to tour any of the 3 schools.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa

14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

The English Playhouse ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, office open 8:00-16.00, www.tep.edu.pl The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more

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listings / family info or to arrange a tour of the pre-school or nursery call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com Maple Tree Montessori ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). Find them located in the Wilanów district of Warsaw, in a house safely nestled into the end of a quiet street.

Montessori Academy for International Children ul. Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), open Mon-Fri 8:00-16:15, ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual

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development of each child.

Primrose Bilingual Preschool ul. Bernardyńska 16A lok U7, tel. 22 415 8500, primrose.edu.pl Following the ‘immersion’ method, each class has two teachers – one Polish-speaking, the other English.

Through this children have all-day contact with different languages, absorbing them in everyday situations. In accordance with the hands-on methodology, children also take part in daily workshops ranging from kitchen science to art and craft classes.

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul.

Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), open Mon-Fri 7:30-18:30, tel. 517 872 682, 3languages. pl The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards.

The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012.

schools American School of Warsaw ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org ASW is a premier college-

preparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information and/ or to visit our school contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00.

The British Primary School of Wilanów ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl, tel. 781 988 000 Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1.

The British School ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, open 8:00-16:00, british@thebritishschool. pl, thebritishschool.pl Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their

listings / family international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a wellestablished International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Programme.

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations)

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu. pl Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School are set to open their Erdkinder Montessori Middle School as of September 2016. Located at Tatrzańska 5A they promise an extraordinary opportunity for study, work and for daily living. Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for

managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, admissions@tep. edu.pl, tep.edu.pl The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health

Education. The school is a member of Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. Also home to the Non-Public Psychological Counselling Centre “ Olimpia”.

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listings / family simply browse the books and toys section while your little ones romp in the kids room.

International Trilingual School of Warsaw ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl Established in 1994, and formerly known as Ecole Antoine de Saint Exupery, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China.

Warsaw Montessori School ul. Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl, warsawmontessori.edu.pl Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences.

cafes Figa z Makiem (Saska Kępa) ul. Walecznych 64, tel. 512 939 001, figazmakiem.edu.pl One of the latest and greatest addition to the growing roster of Warsaw kid cafes. Do some well selected designer kids shopping while waiting, or

Kolonia ul. Łęczycka (corner of Ładysława), kolonia-ochota.pl Not just an excellent cafe, Kolonia is aslo equipped with a garden/ playground. Kolonia is the most kid-friendly (and pet-friendly) place in the area, offering fresh daily specials and a staff that always welcomes you with a smile.

Nabo ul. Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe. pl Nabo is run by a Danish couple and its light and minimalist interior – designed by those who created R20 – lends itself to every occasion. But aside from its tasty and seasonal dishes, it’s the children’s corner that is causing the biggest commotion.

shops Bimbus ul. Wilcza 69, tel. 22 628 5140, open 10:00-18:00; Sat 10:00-14:00. bimbus. com.pl Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou.

Baby D’Oro ul. Długa 8/14 Anticipating a new arrival?

Then head to Baby D’Oro, a luxury home

design store that will transform your baby’s room into something fit for a little prince / princess. Making use of pastel colors and top quality fabrics, this Polish brand covers all bases from furnishings and fittings to toys and accessories.

Kopytko Mamuta ul. Boya-Żeleńskiego 2, kopytkomamuta. pl The creation of Kopytko Mamuta plugs a gap in the market, with beautifully cobbled shoes that are, in the words of the owner Agnieszka, ‘the essence of Parisian chic’.

Specializing in trendy kicks from the likes of Mercredi Apres Midi, it’s the ultimate spoiler for your budding style maven and her little Prince Charming.

Lullaby Multiple locations, lullaby.pl Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

Muppetshop ul. Kazimierzowska 43, tel. 532 689 212, muppetshop.pl An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects. On top of that expect a wealth of other design products (kitchen accessories, decorations, toys, bags, books etc.) from carefully selected brands.

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting

applications for all our locations and programs: Infant & Toddler: age 1-2.5, Casa: age 2.5-6 Contact Ela: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl "Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsaw montessori school

Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

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www.warsawmontessori.edu.pl

health & beauty gyms Artis Wellness Club ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub. pl And so here we have a contender for Warsaw’s best gym. Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. Personal training and deluxe spa facilities also available.

Fitness Centre at the Radisson SAS Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888 Smallish but well-regarded gym with swimming pool, sauna, gym, and group classes inside one of Warsaw’s top five stars.

OUTDOOR YOGA INTERNATIONAL YOGA DAY June 25 @ Pole Mokotowskie Kicking off at 10 a.m., mark International Yoga Day by partaking in one of the free classes running through the day. Other entertainment includes Indian dance displays, henna workshops, cooking demonstrations and a live concert by Ragaboy Act. And of course, if you just want to show up for an Ayurvedic massage followed by some vegan or Indian food, then feel free to do so.

For info, see: dzien-jogi.pl JOGA ŻOLIBORZ June 3, 10, 17, 24 @ Prochownia Żoliborz, ul. Czarneckiego 51 For the second year running, Marcelina and Natalia will be hosting free yoga workshops starting from 10 a.m. Aimed at all levels of competency (from beginner upwards), the only requirement is that you bring your own mat.

JOGA W PARKU KRASIŃSKICH Every Sat @ Park Krasińskich Hosted by Aliona of the nearby Sadhana Yoga Studio, join other enthusiasts each Saturday at nine in the morning – all you need is your own mat and water. Classes are free though donations are welcomed.

JOGA W ŁAZIENKACH KRÓLEWSKICH (pictured) June 11 & 25 Join instructor Dorota Kobos at 10 a.m. by Brama Herbowa for 90-minute hatha yoga classes that welcome one and all. The pristine Łazienki location guarantees a crowd. Outdoor classes are set to run until Autumn, though potential participants should check Facebook for further details and possible cancellations.

Fitness Centre at the Sheraton Hotel ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6701, www.sheraton. com/warsaw The Sheraton spa features sauna, steam room and massage, while the gym comes with LCD-fitted running and cycling machines, and a dedicated cardio section. Personal training available, as are group classes covering pilates, yoga, aerobics and even ski conditioning.

Holmes Place Energy Al. Jana Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), www. holmesplace.pl Making top-flight gym facilities available to the masses, the Holmes Place Energy brand offers high standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. For latest details enquire direct.

Holmes Place Premium ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul.

Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. Prices, depending on the gym you choose, range from around zł.

179 to zł. 379 per month.

Little Gym ul. Bruzdowa 56, tel. 22 842 0728, www.warsawinsider.pl

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listings / health & beauty www.thelittlegym.pl Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. Englishspeaking, as well.

McFit ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), tel. 22 313 1400, mcfit.com The budget European chain signals its arrival to Poland with a 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month.

Quantum Fitness ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Quantum takes the keep fit business to new levels. A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-of-the-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience, and one that comes with the added bonus of a luxury spa and a top-class physiotherapy wing.

Ride Warsaw ul. Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com Around twice a day this small studio opens up to the public with group cycling classes overseen by a team of English-speaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction with the trainer in charge.

RiverView Wellness Centre ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł.

4,000.

spas & salons Dotyk SPA ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel. 22 898 7272, open Mon-Fri 9:00-22:00; Sat 9:00-18:00, dotykspa.pl Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going futher east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 629 2414.

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A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country.

Hair a Porter ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

Haircology ul. Rozbrat 44A, tel. 669 780 669, haircology.pl An upmarket ecologically minded hairdresser that eschews such things as synthetic fragrances, silicon and preservatives.

Le Spa ul. Mokotowska 55, tel. 22 622 9428 This little island of peace and beauty takes you light-years away from the bustle of Warsaw.

Nail & Beauty Bar ul. Mokotowska 26, tel. 22 621 1404 A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. Also on Elektoralna 24.

ouch!

Ouch! ul. Belwederska 32, 22 240 87 67; ul. Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 12, ouch. pl Experts in waxing, Ouch! Aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. High quality waxes, including fast and accurate epilation treatments whose effects last up to four weeks. Wax treatments for the whole body.

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French ul. Belwederska 32, tel. 22 240 62 90; Bonifraterska 8, tel. 22 298 11 10; ul. Mokotowska 56, tel. 22 298 10 10, pardonmyfrench.pl Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! Free wifi and coffee, as well as the possibility of hosting baby showers and bachelorette parties. Open from 9-8

during the week and 9-5 on Sat (with the Mokotowska branch also welcoming visitors on Sunday from 10-4).

The Pedicure Place ul. Pokorna 2, lok. u11, pedicure-place. pl A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care.

Quantum Clinic ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl Using first class, pioneering methods and technology, the Quantum Clinic surpasses the norms that Warsaw has become used to. For the full Hollywood treatment, restore and replenish the body at a luxury spa devised to enhance the body and mind.

Rostowski Barber Shop ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles.

Retro Day Spa Al. Ujazdowskie 18/11, no. 311, tel. 22 622 03 69 Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant women among the variety of beauty offers.

Sante ul. Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. As you stare at the mantra above the mind lets go and you feel almost as if your body is moving. Amazing.

Studio Jej i Jego ul. Wiertnicza 93A, tel. 22 885 0085, .jejijego.pl Hair and beauty treatments for men and women – inc. nail care, massage, facial and body treatments.

You & You Maciej Wróblewski ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), tel. 606 994 226, youandyou.eu Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

in the city

ON INSTAGRAM #warsawinsider

The Insider’s Instagram henchman returns to the streets to record Warsaw’s transition into summer. For your daily dose of quirky seasonal happenings, check out our Instagram account for yourself...

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listings / in the city VISITORS accomodation 5-Star Hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, bristol@luxurycollection. com, www.hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, www.h15ab.com

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Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, www.hilton.com

Sheraton ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, www.sheraton.pl

InterContinental ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, www.warsaw.intercontinental.com

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-warsaw

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel Warsaw ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, www. mamaison.com Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, www.warsawmarriott.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, www.sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Regent Warsaw Hotel ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regent-warsaw.com, www.regent-warsaw.com

Westin Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, www.westin.pl

The Rialto Boutique Hotel ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, www.rialto.pl

Between Us Bed & Breakfast ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), www.between-us.eu

B&B

2017-05-23 11:27:12

listings / in the city RESIDENTS relocation companies

museums

Arkpol ul. Słowikowskiego 27, arkpol.com Specialists in international ‘door-to-door’ movals, with packaging, storage and customs clearance part of the deal.

Interdean International Relocation ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171

Move One Relocations ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, www.moveonerelo.com Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services.

Relo Planet ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, tel. 22 658 1958, reloplanet.com International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.).

Copernicus Science Centre ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, tel. 22 596 4100, kopernik.org.pl Interactive, witty and surprising, Copernicus allows visitors to experience an earthquake, blast recyclable objects into space and become a mystery cracking detective.

CSW ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl Situated in a baroquestyle castle the center hosts artists from all over the world. The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals.

Ongoing till January 11: Reel-Unreel (Afghan Projects 2010-2014). Polish-born artist Francis Alys presents a selection of paintings, sketches, documents and collages related to his travels around Afghanistan. Forming the centerpiece is his film, Reel-Unreel.

Dom Spotkań z Historią ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl The History Meeting House wins points for frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ It won’t take longer than twenty minutes to peruse whatever exhibition is on, but it’s still a very worthwhile diversion and one of the city’s top secrets. Ongoing until April 6: The Great War in the East (1914-1918).

Usually associated with the Western Front, this photographic exhibition aims to redress the balance by covering WWI from an eastern angle.

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

Yellow Double-Decker Bus

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Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

A GPS 12 language audio-guide, will give explanations and accompany you to make your ride a more adventurous, exciting and an unforgettable one.

Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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Line approved by municipal authorities.

www.city-tour.com.pl

100 Warsaw Insider | JUNE 2017

+48 500 033 414

Historical Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 28/42, mhw.pl The granddaddy of Warsaw museums is over the worst of a lengthy refit and gradually reopening bit by bit. The ground floor cinema is a must – playing a 20 minute film that details the depressing story behind the destruction of Warsaw.

The Fryderyk Chopin Museum in Warsaw Ostrogski Palace, ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum Recognized as one of the most hi-tech museums in Europe, computer chip tickets allow visitors the chance to personalize the museum experience as never before.

Over 5,000 objects are present, among them Chopin’s pocket watch, his last piano, a lock of hair and even his death mask.

Jewish Historical Institute ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past.

Królikarnia ul. Puławska 113A, krolikarnia.mnw.art.pl Fine art galore inside an elegant suburban palace. The young curator has decided to show some forgotten treasures from the rich archives of the National Museum. The gallery also hosts more contemporary works, such as those by Nicolas Grospierre and Agnieszka Polska.

listings / in the city Museum of Communist Life ul. Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), tel. 606 225 525, adventurewarsaw.com Run by the excellent Adventure Warsaw tour guide company, the Museum of Communist Life brings together aspects of communist life through dioramas that present typical living quarters of the time and a milk bar. Displays include a restored Saturator machine, a collection of commie hoovers, not to mention medals from the owner’s own family.

Polin - Museum of the History of Polish Jews ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Covering 4,000 sq/m, highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical interwar Jewish Warsaw street.

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

The Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum. org This amazing project brings together the neon lights that once illuminated the city.

Among the collection are 35 landmark signs, many of which date from the 60s and 70s.

Palmiry National Memorial Museum Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story, with archival video footage complimented by exhumed exhibits and plenty of background info dealing with the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Park Miniatur ul. Bracka 25 (Dom Jabłońskich, level -1), pl.miniaturymazowieckie.com Although the park consists of only eight 1:25 scale models of some of the most beautiful and important buildings from Warsaw’s past, the zł. 12 admission is certainly worth it.

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl Meticulously restored after WWII, highlights inside include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Bernardo Bellotto (known as Canaletto), the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe in the tin-roofed palace and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings.

The Warsaw Amber Museum Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber.

Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising. Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944. And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. For panoramic views of Warsaw check the view tower.

Wola Museum ul. Srebrna 12, mhw.pl An unexpectedly amazing museum that’s been turned around thanks to its ambitious, young staff.

Once a dank, dusty space, the reinvention includes ‘the room of one object’, whose single exhibit changes each month. There’s the New Varsovians exhibition, dedicated to the young students who arrived to Warsaw in the 1860s and 70s, and the Wola Laboratory, a multimedia exhibition with a focus on the district. All this new wave gadgetry is to be augmented by real objects on the first floor, not to mention an archive of amateur film – the first such archive in Poland Zachęta National Art Gallery Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl Featuring in the collection are works by Toulouse-Lautrec, Cezanne, Ernst and Picasso, as well as luminaries of the Polish art scene such as Tadeusz Kantor, Alina Szapocznikow, Katarzyna Kozyra and Zbigniew Libera.

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Winds of Change

With the Insider celebrating its 250th outing, we look back at the changes the city’s undergone... BY STUART DOWELL

H

ow long have you been here?” is a standard gambit when quizzing a foreigner here. “Over 20 years now,” I reply as befits the facts. The ball is often lobbed back with “You must have seen a lot of changes then”. Well 20 years is a very long time, so let’s think about what’s new, what’s disappeared, what’s the same and what’s better.

The money is new. They were using the old and the new money at the same time back in the 1990s. It meant it was easier to cheat a naïve newcomer by slipping in a few old notes in your change of new money. Perhaps they needed it more than me.

Drinkable tap water is an important new change caused by major investment after Poland joined the EU. Before that, alerts would often be broadcast on the radio warning inhabitants about high toxicity levels in the water. Long queues would form at the Oligocene wells that had sprung up around the city in the 1980s.

Along with the improvement in the housing stock, bathrooms have changed. Maybe not extinct but certainly less frequent are toilets with baffling inspection ledges, or ‘lay-and-display’ as we used to call them. Perhaps designed by a corpophiliac, a weak flush would leave your unmentionables still sitting proudly, but a strong gush would cause a minor tsunami and the need for another shower.

Also pretty much deceased due to the unstoppable march of Big Retail are curious shop combinations. If you wanted to rent a VHS

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video and also browse undergarments for plus-size ladies, there was a shop for it on Jana Pawła. If you needed a baby’s christening outfit and also a bag of dog biscuits, a small store on Solec was the place to go. “Know you customers” is what the marketing people always say, after all.

What hasn’t changed? The ladies of Pigalik still waiting under the lamplight to offer comfort to those with modest wallets. And the Palace of Culture still floats in its sea of concrete unchanged and impervious to the regularly published plans to solve the problem of what to finally do with this unwanted yet stubborn gift.

Best of all though are the things that have always been here but are now even better. Łazienki Park has never looked so good; its historical treasures gleam in an oasis of manicured greenery that is the equal of any city park in Europe. Old Town keeps raising its game, and the unveiling of the refurbished Dekert side of the market square and the reopening of the Museum of Warsaw at the end of May this year is just the latest improvement. Let’s hope the next 20 years will be just as fascinating!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

LOOKING BACK

Both sweet and spicy, Qki culinary studio cooks, bakes, trains and parties... ul. Szolc-Rogozińskiego 3, Tel. +48 693 077 633 , +48 604 445 414