Warsaw Insider May 2018 #261

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

MAY 2018

Night of the Museums

261 05/2018

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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zł.10

(VAT 8% included)

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH BALMAIN AQUAZZURA BURBERRY BALMAIN BUSCEMI BUSCEMI CASADEI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CHRISTIANELIE LOUBOUTIN SAAB SAAB FRANCESCO ELIE RUSSO FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT ISABELKENZO MARANT KENZO MAISON MICHEL KOTUR MARC JACOBS LORO PIANA MANOLO BLAHNIK MAISON MICHEL MR & MRS ITALY MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TOD’S TORY BURCH BURCH VICTORIA TORY BECKHAM VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN YVES SALOMON

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

4 Take a Number 6 News 8 City History:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Plac Konstytucji 10 Interview: Goodlooking Studio

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

FEATURES 16 Football:

AKS Zły 0 Night of the 2 Museums

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

PARTNER SPOTLIGHT

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com

28 The latest marketplacenews from the Warsaw Insider’s friends and advertisers

EAT!

29 Review:

El Krepel 30 Review: Falla 31 Review: Na Sushi

DRINK!

63 Review:

Labour Cafe 64 Roundup: Work Cafes 66 Brewery Spotlight: Stu Mostów

MAY 2018

ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com

I

t’s tough to beat a month that begins with a holiday. In Poland’s case, May 1st and 3rd merge together into one big extended break that sees the majority of residents temporarily migrate to the back of beyond. For those who remain, the capital pauses its pace to become a slow, surreal city that lives life in the slow lane – bliss. But tempting as it is, doing nothing this month shouldn’t be an option. Even the culturally inactive appreciate May, in particular the annual edition of the Night of Museums. Falling this year on the 19th, it’s become one of the best loved fixtures on Warsaw’s yearly calendar – this issue, we run down the dos, don’ts and highlights. Elsewhere, we also visit the Don Pedro Arena, home to Poland’s first democratic football team, troll the best working spots in town, and meet the lads behind Good Looking Studio – the mob responsible for painting the town red (yellow, green and every other color there is). Hope you enjoy it, and see you next month!

ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

77 Review: Just Paul 82 Museums 93 Guide: Essentials 94 Map 96 Insider Finds

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl on the cover To coincide with Night of Museums (see p. 20), our cover artist has given star billing to Warsaw’s Museum of Modern Art. (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

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VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2018 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

DO!

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

number

100

złoty The maximum fine for illegally drinking outdoors…

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Nothing says summer more than heading down the riverside and seeing in the sunset with a beer in your hand. The moment the mercury climbs, a string of bars open along the Wisła turning the front into an amorphous, happy blur of drunken racket.

But with the riverbank often representing an undulating wall of beats, shrieks and general pandemonium, it may come as a surprise to learn that cracking open a bevvy outside the jurisdiction of any of these bars is an illegal act punished with a fine of up to zł. 100 – at least, that was the case prior to April 20th.

After careful deliberation, city councilors have passed a motion lifting the ban along the promenade lining the left side of the Wisła, with the news augmented by the announcement that City Hall would be installing public breathalyzers to encourage responsible drinking. Yet while party people welcomed the landslide vote, residents have been left waiting to see if officials will go a step beyond and rescind the ban that currently applies to the river’s right side.

Councilors will meet soon to decide if the sandy stretch flanking either side of Most Poniatowski will remain a booze-free zone.

PHOTOGRAPH SHUTTERSTOCK

take a

by Wilamowski Chłodna 15 has become the talk of the town. Trained in the world’s top Michelin starred restaurants by some of the best chefs around, Chef Arkadiusz Wilamowski has worked for Alain Ducasse at the three star Dorchester in London, at Gérald Passedat’s three star restaurant in Marseille and Pierre Gagnaire’s two star Sketch London.

The French and international menu features sophisticated technique, wholesome Polish ingredients, and an exceptional wine list. Placing an emphasis on seasonal, top quality ingredients, Wilamowski’s menu changes frequently to include such ingredients as fresh lobster – one of the chef’s favorite culinary items.

A degustation menu is available for those who wish to sample the chef’s full creativity.

CHŁODNA 15 BY WILAMOWSKI • UL. CHŁODNA 15, WARSAW • RESERVATION@CHLODNA15.PL • TEL. 730 737 644

News Regeneration Gap City Hall have announced plans to regenerate Praga with over 600 vacant retail units earmarked for attention. Aimed at reducing empty space while increasing tenant diversity, the project has been described as the largest initiative of its type in Poland. Aside from improving conditions for existing entrepreneurs, the project also hopes to encourage other small enterprises – especially those ‘conducting activities of high social or cultural value’ – to relocate to the district.

Survivor Saved!

One of Warsaw’s great surviving war ruins has been saved after being entered into the so-called ‘register of monuments’. Substantially damaged towards the end of WWII, the building at Waliców 14 had come to be viewed as one of the city’s quirkier landmarks on account of its crowning feature: a half-wrecked exterior wall adorned with a 1,400 sq/m mural. However, with the area experiencing a rapid economic revival, rumors that real estate developers were circling had gathered pace. Now, though, city activists can rest easy. As one of only a handful of buildings to survive the methodical destruction of the Warsaw Ghetto, the Mayor of Wola, Krzysztof Strzałkowski, has pledged that the brooding hulk will now be turned into an urban cultural institution with restoration work carried out under the watchful eye of the city’s conservator.

A controversial monument honoring those who died in the 2010 Smolensk air crash was unveiled in April to coincide with the 8th anniversary of the disaster. Already nicknamed ‘Stairway to Heaven’ by its critics, the memorial – found on Pl. Piłsudskiego – is to receive round-the-clock police protection against ‘anti-government hooligans’. The crash, which killed President Lech Kaczyński, has since spawned numerous conspiracy theories and divided the public.

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PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Smolensk Remembered

Old Town

THE RIB HOUSE

Plac Dominikański 2 tel.: +48 12 422 56 87 dominikanski@restauracjarzeznia.pl

Jewish Quarter

Bożego Ciała 14 tel.: +48 12 430 62 96 bozegociala@restauracjarzeznia.pl

www.restauracjarzeznia.pl

Being Square

With the month kicking-off with International Labor Day, we take a look back at the MDM housing estate – the center piece of the Brave New World envisioned for post-war Warsaw…

R

egarded at the time as ‘the grandest housing estate in the whole of Poland’, the MDM development, with Pl. Konstytucji as its focal point, stands out as one of the nation’s scariest examples of the spirit-crushing, overpowering Socialist Realist style.

Though much of the area actually survived the war with just token nicks and knocks, the damage was deemed sufficient to flatten several streets and begin with a blank page. What took root was famously slammed by author Leopold Tyrmand as “a stone wedding cake covered with balconies built of boulders.” Opened to much fanfare on July 22nd, 1952 (a couple of commemorative floor mosaics mark the date), the square’s calling card became its

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trio of monumental lampposts not to mention numerous decorative reliefs of stoic miners, benevolent teachers and other conscientious socialist heroes.

Seen as a flagship residential project, this Stalinist-inspired estate didn’t miss a chance to promote Utopian ideals. Beyond Pl. Konstytucji, check the corner of Wilcza and Marszałkowska to see a relief depicting a peasant woman picking grapes. The work of Sopot artist Hanna Żuławska, her other contribution to this ‘propaganda district’ can be viewed across Marszałkowska: an intricate mosaic set under a giant clock face produced in Sopot and then transported piece-by-piece to Warsaw. The idealism, however, was

strictly illusory. With rents amounting to roughly half the average salary, the apartments – which featured such bonuses as oak parquet floors and cast-iron sinks – were largely given over to high-ranking apparatchiks and other party pets.

With the time bomb that was communism ticking, the area found itself looking increasingly bedraggled. In the 80s, notorious footage of a pro-Solidarity protester being pancaked by a militia van was filmed on Konstytucji, while the wild 90s saw the square swamped with Vietnamese hawkers trading from temporary cabins; up above, seedy brothels operated with impunity from one-time luxury flats.

Today, this former Socialist showpiece is a quirky imbalance between capitalism and communism: on one hand, chain restaurants overlook a square packed with luxury cars, on the other, vestiges of the past are never far away – the prettiest? That’s perhaps the Siatarka, a leaping volleyball player added to the roof of Pl. Konstytucji in 1961 to advertise a sports shop.

Known to some as the ‘queen of Warsaw’s neon signs’, she’s a sparkly reminder of bygone times.

PHOTOGRAPH PAP

City History

Enjoy the hospitality and tastes of the Bosphorus in Poland’s most authentic Turkish restaurant Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 883 444 441, anatolia.pl

Interview

Paint The Town

Reviving the art of hand-painted ads, Good Looking Studio have done much to transform the walls of Poland since launching in 2008. Co-founder Karol Szufladowicz talks about his work...

WI: Wall murals cost way more than standard billboards, so why are advertisers falling over themselves to hire you guys?

KS: When something is 100% hand-painted by a group of artists then of course it’ll cost more than some vinyl material digitally covered in ink. A large scale mural might take a week or more to complete, while a standard banner can be printed in hours… but ask yourself, would you stop to watch a normal ad being erected? I certainly

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wouldn’t. But in our case, people stop to see what we’re painting and watch us work. They smile, point at us, clap their hands or show their respect and appreciation. And, of course, they take photos that end up all over the internet. That’s the difference between handpainted murals and normal adverts – they strike an emotional angle, and that alone makes this form of advertising very successful. Moreover, the media love it which further builds PR and strengthens an ad campaign. It’s not so easy to

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Interview achieve the same results with a standard billboard and that’s why advertisers are willing to pay more for our services.

Above and below: eco mural for PGE; produced by aiming waterjets at a dirty dam wall.

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What makes a successful mural?

First, you’ve got to ask what the objective of a particular mural is – is it being created to sell a product, to beautify the city or to inform the public about a social problem?

Once the reason is identified you need to choose the content and the right visual language. Further, the context of the mural is key – if there’s no relationship to the surroundings then it’s impact becomes smaller. And, of course, it needs to be executed by highly skilled artists that know how to paint the image in question: otherwise,

even the best ideas won’t work if they’re not painted properly.

What’s the process behind creating a mural?

On average, a large-scale wall will take between four to seven days to paint, but that’s actually the shortest aspect of our work. It takes a lot more time to gain the required permits and design a good layout – though quite often we’ll execute projects that have already been designed by a client.

Project management is crucial as careful preparation can save a lot of time and money once it comes to the execution phase, and that’s especially true when we’re working on a few murals simultaneously. Depending on the layout, each project will

Interview

Above: Permanent mural on ul. Ciepła, sponsored by Skanska; below, marking the 50th anniversary of Mercedes AMG.

then be painted by a team of between two to five artists. Imagine painting ten big walls in a month, each wall being approximately five floors high, and each mural featuring about 30 different colors: that’s a hell of a lot of paint – like a big truck or two. Mixing all that paint takes a lot of time.

Tell us about your painters…

Wall painters are known around the globe as wall dogs – their safety harnesses are attached to a scaffold or lift, so they’re basically like leashed dogs. They don’t have an easy job – they’re out there whatever the weather: minus 10 or plus 30, it doesn’t matter, so they need to be strong,

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both physically and mentally. There isn’t room for compromise in the ad industry, so we work 365 days per year to keep as competitive as we can – our team understand that and they’re ready to make those sacrifices. Our wall dogs are mostly qualified artists with a degree, but having a bit of paper to your name definitely isn’t enough to join us. Painting a large wall is something you learn with time: it’s completely different to working on a canvas in a comfortable studio.

Are there any works you’re especially proud of?

Many! Actually, what’s really helped us develop is our determination to break boundaries and

For more on the studio visit goodlooking.pl

push our limits. Sometimes that can just mean landing a contract with a big international brand that we haven’t cooperated with before. Other times it’s the size of a mural and a perfectly executed design. We also love non-standard projects, for example, video-mapping or producing the biggest ecological mural in the world (made by aiming a high pressure water jet at the dirty wall of a massive dam). This month we also painted two murals with UV paint so that they glow at night. We love being the first to do these things in Poland, and that motivates us to keep pushing onwards.

Where’s the industry headed?

It’s still developing. Our work is in huge demand, so while it’s neither digitalized nor standardized it is modern in its thinking.

Because so much around us is machine-made or computer-generated, people are yearning for a return to handmade things. That’s what we offer and that’s why brands want us to work with them – we do tailor-made projects that are highly individual.

What have you learned since you started?

My business partner, Bartek Leśniewski, and I, started Good Looking Studio ten years back.

In the beginning we

were strictly a ‘garage company’, just the two of us with one table and a couple of computers. But we believed in our idea. It took us a year to paint the first mural, so what we learned was that nothing comes easy. You either

move on an idea quickly, or someone else will beat you to it. Most of all, we’ve learned that if you really believe in something, then never give up. Keep on going even when the wind is blowing the sand in your eyes!

From top: permanent mural on Pl. Europejski, sponsored by Ghelamco; Królewskie ad on Bracka.

warsawinsider.pl

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FOOTBALL AKS ZŁY

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Back to the Roots Away from the bright lights of the Ekstraklasa, a football revolution has stirred in the dark depths of Praga…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

W

ay before I fell in love with someone, I fell in love with something. That something was football. I had just turned 13, and through a mixture of fate and (mis)fortune ended up behind the goal at Bristol City. My God it stank, but it was a stench that I adored: cider, cigs and last night’s curry. When we scored, my grey schoolboy world exploded into a kaleidoscope of chaos. Swept off my feet in the ensuing tidal wave of madness, it was the moment that my world suddenly clicked together. I had caught the football bug.

As anyone who has caught that bastard virus will tell you, it’s pretty hard to shake. Thing is though, it’s got easier with time. Look at English football now and it’s all about obscene wages, dubious dealings, and soulless stadiums filled with docile customers: this wasn’t what I had signed up for. But while Polish football has been resistant to many of the ills affecting the game in England, it hasn’t swerved them altogether; for many fans, unease about the increased commercialization of football has grown into full-scale disillusionment.

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FOOTBALL AKS ZŁY It’s this dissatisfaction that led to the birth of AKS ZŁY. Formed two and a bit years ago by a dozen ‘founding fathers and mothers’, Poland’s first fan-owned, ‘democratic’ football club has grown rapidly to over 100 members, of which a hardcore of less than twenty volunteers oversee the day-to-day affairs of the club.

Having recruited players through a poster campaign, online appeals and general word-of-mouth, the club currently fields two first teams: a ladies team featuring a number of deaf / dumb players, and a men’s team managed by Antonio ‘Toto’ Shehadee, an Israeli Arab of Christian faith. Aside from Poles, his side includes players of Vietnamese, German and Georgian origin, with the sheer diversity further reflected by the full-time jobs that the squad members have: chef, lawyer, stagehand, violinist, banker, psychotherapist.

“To me,” says Kris Gorniak, one of the original co-founders, “it’s all about friendship, cooperation and passion. At ZŁY, which means BAD, we want to show that people can be good for each other and can achieve huge things when they help each other out.” Built on tenets of social responsibility, openness and equal rights, ZŁY’s mission has caught the imagination of more than just those who are registered members. Plying their trade in the 8th tier of Polish football, the men’s team attracts crowds that have, on occasion, reached 300 for bigger matches, a phenomenal figure given the level.

If the number sounds modest to some, then the noise they make certainly isn’t. Gathering at the Don Pedro Arena (so named to add a flash of flair to the dreary official title – Stadion DOSiR), ZŁY’s fans are an eccentric bunch like no other: women are prominent (40% of the attendance, estimates Kris), and so too are representatives of just about every niche group in Warsaw – old geezers, young fathers with yappy dogs and baby buggies, dreadlocked squatter types, a lad wearing Stone Island, geeky ground hoppers, blokes in tracksuits sharing a beer, and neo-hipsters glugging Fritz Cola. Led by an enthusiastic, bowler hatted drummer, they bounce in unison, keeping up a barrage of noise throughout the first half.

With the whistle sounded, fans filter to the entrance to queue for vegan rolls prepped at home by Waldek, another one of the club’s co-founders; as they do, a DJ spins a few records from the early years of Blur. It’s not a football match I’m at, more a street party with some football in the background. As the game resumes, so does the noise. Banners are hoisted and scarves raised aloft. There number might be few, but ZŁY’s hardy followers create an unrelenting wall of good humored din. As the ref calls fulltime, the players are saluted like conquering heroes.

Cheers ring around the Don Pedro, before giving way to the steady war cry: Nasz Klub To Demokracja. You’d never guess that they’d just been tanked 4-0.

“If ZŁY was just about getting results,” says Kris, “there’d be no-one here. To us football isn’t a TV show, it’s something we love – it’s our local church. And you know what, I firmly believe that if we all pitch in and work together then victory on the pitch will eventually come.”

Quite.

AKS ZŁY Don Pedro Arena (ul. Kawęczyńska 44), fb.com/akszly

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There number might be few, but ZŠY’s hardy followers create an unrelenting wall of good humored din

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CITY NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

The three sides of

THE NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

Celebrating its 15th year, Night of Museums has grown from a minor event (the first edition saw 16,000 people file through 11 venues) to a mighty juggernaut attracting well in excess of 200,000 people. The previous year saw 234 institutions open their doors to the public, of which 50 were museums.

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Cool & Quirky

Brilliantly offbeat, the following are your best choices for alternative culture…

NEON MUSEUM

ul. Mińska 25, neonmuzeum.org The result of one woman’s quest to save the neon signs that lit up Poland during the dark years of communism, the Neon Museum showcases a dazzling range of socialist era signage. Added incentives on NoM include food trucks, audio-visual shows and a DJ spinning retro Polski hits.

OBIEKT ALFA

ul. Kozielska 4, obiektalfa.pl If you think we live in scary times then a visit to this Cold War nuclear bunker is a timely reminder that it could all be worse. Built to house a top secret chemical research unit, it’s from here Poland’s medical operation would have been conducted in the event of the red button being pressed. Frozen in time, it’s super creepy.

SECRETS OF PKIN

Pl. Defilad 1 It’s a given that, as always, the Palace of Culture will open up its labyrinthine basements to the general public. Expect tours to snake past the Bond-like control room, chambers filled with bits of gear saved over from the construction phase, and a hatchway looking onto the living quarters of the 13 cats employed to stave off vermin.

THE FINNISH HOUSES

ul. Jazdów 3/18 Built to house the architects involved in the city’s post-war reconstruction, this idyllic network of wooden cottages usually comes alive each year for NoM. No news yet what’s in store, but past years have included poetry readings, a rave held by Europe’s oldest DJ, and arty events inside these pretty little cabins.

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

ul. Mińska 22, czarprl.pl This small but lovingly assembled museum recalls both the bright and bad times during communism. Most memorable is a recreation of a pokey 70s apartment complete with everyday odds and ends: Bolero perfume, boss-eyed dolls, old album sleeves and lethal-looking electrical appliances.

MINIATURE PARK

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 66, miniaturymazowieckie.com It’s baaack! Months after being kicked out of their previous lodgings, the miniature park has returned to an outdoor location right close to Old Town. Magnificently detailed models of Warsaw’s vanished architectural treasures make this a standout little secret. warsawinsider.pl

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CITY NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

Once In A Lifetime

A number of not-so public institutions will also open for the night, allowing visitors a rare glimpse inside places that are usually offlimits…

WEDEL FACTORY

ul. Zamoyskiego 24/26 Willy Wonka eat your heart out. Dubbed “the most chocolatey place in Poland” (their words, not ours), the Wedel chocolate factory will reveal it’s chocolate making secrets to the public, hand out samples and let visitors take a peek around the Memory Hall in which founder Jan Wedel once worked. You can also bet on extravagant chocolate sculptures to be displayed.

FILTRY WATERWORKS

ITALIAN EMBASSY

Pl. Dąbrowskiego 6 Ever wondered what lies behind an embassy’s doors? See for yourself by visiting the seat of the Italian mission. Set inside the Szlenkier Palace, home to the Italians since 1919, tours take guests deep inside the antique, Baroque-style interiors, with stops including the ambassador’s office, the inner courtyard, a neo-Renaissance red marble fireplace and a still life by Cristoforo Munari.

LORD MAYOR’S OFFICE

Pl. Bankowy 3/5 Mayor Hanna Gronkiewicz-Waltz remains a hero in the eyes of many, so the chance to sit at her desk brings sees the formation of some of the biggest queues in town. Those surviving the lines will also get to stand on the observation deckand mingle with officials dressed up in funny costumes.

REGIONAL COURT OF WARSAW

Al. Solidarności 127 If past years are anything to go by, events will include tours of the building (including the cells!), police dog displays, bomb disposal demos, criminal justice workshops and performances of notorious criminal cases. You might even learn how cops escort high risk crooks into court.

MINISTRY OF EDUCATION

Al. Szucha 25 The imposing Ministry of Education is due to open its doors once more, giving visitors the fleeting thrill of sitting at the Education Minister’s desk. With that chalked off, head to the basement to visit a former Gestapo interrogation center. Reenactments by historical enthusiasts are planned for the evening of the NoM.

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ul. Koszykowa 81 Designed in the 19th century by English engineering maestro William Lindley, a delve around the Filtry waterworks includes a small museum inside the 40-meter red brick spire, a rapid filter facility decorated with Art Deco reliefs, and arguably the best unimpeded views of Warsaw’s skyscraping horizon. The big talking point, though, are the vaulted subterranean catacombs: murky and mystical, they’re one of Warsaw’s best guarded secrets.

The Longest Lines

For the biggest queues, look no further than the heavyweights of sightseeing…

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTER

ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg.

For NoM, God knows what awaits, just expect plenty of glitz and razzle.

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum Don’t let the location inside the 18th century Ostrogski Palace fool you: here’s one of the most technologically advanced museums in the world. Relics such as the composer’s pencil, pocket watch and death mask are pitted against interactive sights, sounds and even smells. On NoM, find these complimented by regular piano recitals.

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl Reopened last year, this comprehensive museum traces Warsaw’s history in a

non-linear style packing in everything from curious data (Warsaw’s first strip club: opened 1957!), to scale models, weird postcards and great views of the Rynek below.

POLIN

ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl Although the Holocaust is covered in depth, Polin’s success lies in exploring all of the chapters in Poland’s 1,000-yearold Jewish history. With so many relics destroyed in WWII, the museum relies heavily on multimedia; however, this goes beyond touchscreens to include staggering reconstructions: a pre-war Warsaw street, and the roof and interior of the Gwoździec synagogue. No details about NoM yet, but expect big things from the 2016 European Museum of the Year.

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl Regarded as one of the country’s most important cultural institutions, the Rising Museum re-tells the story of the insurgency that came to define the city in minute detail.

In the past, NoM has meant concerts, films and reenactors dressed in period costume. warsawinsider.pl

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CITY NIGHT OF MUSEUMS

Cheat Sheet

Held on May 19th, this landmark edition is expected to be the biggest to date, with many institutions theming their evening around Poland’s centenary independence celebrations…

WHAT’S ON

While most venues had yet to reveal their plans at press time, keep an eye out for the comprehensive guidebook published by City Hall in the days leading up to NoM. Available in print (47,000 Polish-language copies, 4,000 English-language copies) and online in PDF format (um.warszawa.pl), this essential booklet lists all participating venues and associated events. Its scope is mind-boggling – miss it at your peril.

GETTING ABOUT

As per tradition, the city will be bringing out a fleet of vintage vehicles from retirement and laying on a range of free transport options. Last year, nine new transport lines were created with NoM in mind. Expect historic trams to be rolled-out, as well as antiquated Ikarus and Ogórek buses (so-named on account of their gherkinstyle shape). These are expected to run from 6.30 p.m. till 2 a.m.

STRATEGY

No matter where you go, expect crowds. If you don’t fancy being caught in ever stretching queues then use

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the opportunity to visit Warsaw’s lesser-known museums – frequently, it’s these unsung gems that prove to be the biggest surprise. Further, use the booklet produced by City Hall to your advantage to check out opening times. If you’re visiting the capital’s star attractions, then you’re often better off saving them till last when the horde has dwindled.

TAKE PART

It’s widely expected that, for the third year running, culture vultures will be able to take part in a game that will challenge their ‘knowledge, speed and dexterity’.

Aside from answering questions and fulfilling various tasks, visitors will be battling against each other to visit as many museums as possible in the allotted time. So far, the record stands at 19 museums in five hours.

BE PREPARED

Imagine queueing for an hour only to be told you’re not getting in because you haven’t got ID: well, it happens! A number of the more secretive institutions (among them, the Filtry Waterworks) require visitors to provide photographic ID.

3.1 Phillip Lim – Attico – Rodarte – Paul Andrew – Justine Clenquet – Nina Kastens Jonathan Simkhai – D’ESTREE – RIXO London

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In The Green

“The philosophy behind my cooking,” says Oliwia Bernady, “is based on respect for tradition and ingredients as well as the four elements: earth, wind, fire and water,” Set to be unveiled in June as the new chef at Zielony Niedźwiedź, her ideals are in sync with our restaurant’s continuing and uncompromising commitment to regional Polish traditions. We’re delighted to be able to continue to present the very best Poland has to offer to our guests.

Zielony Niedźwiedź ul. Smolna 4, kafezn.pl

NEWSFLASH! THe big news this month centers round the opening of the luxury Raffles Warsaw Europejski. Launching on May 1st, the flagship restaurant of the hotel – the Europejski Grill – will be fronted by the acclaimed Witek Iwański. Full review next issue!

Mamma Mia!

We are the first Polish restaurant offering a healthy, plant-based version of Italian cuisine certified by the Happy Sugar Free Foundation. Often gluten free, our choices include original tastes and combinations such as artichoke mousse, carrot a la salmon and Parma ham made from rice paper.

Our ingredients go beyond the boundaries of your imagination! After, enjoy gluten-free pastries, organic wine and fruit-based, vegetable and herbal cocktails from our bar.

Leonardo Verde ul. Poznańska 13, leonardoverde.pl

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to name a few – as well as Formula 1 executives.

We’ve already made a flying start to 2018, with local hero Mark Webber and Sean Bratches, F1’s Managing Director, joining us at the Australian Grand Prix a few weeks ago. Looking ahead, we’re excited to announce that Robert Kubica will be joining us in Monaco, Hungary and Italy. Check our website for the complete list of drivers and executives that will be appearing throughout the season.

How do you get this special access?

As Formula 1’s official ticket and travel partner we have a close relationship with the new management of the sport. The ‘behind the scenes’ access that we offer is a key part of Formula 1’s new strategy to engage more closely with fans. If you’ve followed Formula 1 for a while, you’ll know that this is a big departure from the past, when access to the Formula 1 Paddock, for example, was very closely guarded.

The Closest You Can Get to Formula 1® Keith Bruce, the President of F1® Experiences, talks about the company’s vision and offer…

What is F1® Experiences?

F1® Experiences is the official VIP hospitality, experience and travel program of Formula One®. We provide seamless transfers and the best tickets, hospitality, first-class hotels and unprecedented experiences.

In what ways is an F1® Experiences package superior to a normal ticket?

We’re able to offer unique experiences on race weekends that aren’t available anywhere else. These include guided tours of the Formula 1 Paddock, meet and greets with drivers and Formula 1 Executives, and single-day access to the Formula One Paddock Club. We can even offer track rides as part of the new Pirelli Hot Laps program or in our specially customized two-seater Formula 1 car.

Which guests have you had in the past?

Past guests include former world champions such as Damon Hill, Sir Jackie Stewart and Jacques Villeneuve, plus many current drivers – Max Verstappen, Romain Grosjean, and Fernando Alonso, just

Do you offer the same access at every race?

We offer similar packages and experiences for each race, but there are some exceptions. At many of the larger events, we have our own hospitality suite called the Champions Club. We also offer superyacht viewing in both Abu Dhabi and Monaco, which is an incredible way to experience a Formula 1 weekend. Also in Monaco, we offer several viewing terraces with some amazing panoramic views of the track, not to mention the best in gourmet cuisine and open bars.

Why is F1® Experiences the perfect option for both fans and corporate groups?

Our packages appeal to all Formula 1 fans, but especially those who have followed the sport for years and could never have imagined such ‘behind the scenes’ access on a Grand Prix weekend. We have packages to suit fans on all budgets: prices begin from as little as USD $699 for the whole weekend.

Our packages also appeal to corporates and groups. They’re an excellent opportunity for companies to reward high-performing employees, impress existing clients or even win over new clients. We can also tailor corporate packages to the needs of companies, including organizing specially designed packages and custom branding in our signature Champions Club, or with the Legend package in the wellknown Paddock Club.

Where can I find out more information?

To learn more and make bookings, please contact BSS Group, our exclusive agent in Central Europe, at bss75.pl/f1-experiences/

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SECRET PLACE IN HEART OF TOWN

SUMMER CINEMA IS COMING

Ul. Pańska 85 For Reservations tel. 512 671 756 22 253 30 30 panska85.com

EXCELLENT CHINESE CUSINE

EAT!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

KEEP IT SWEET

Warsaw’s always had a sweet tooth, the difference being that it’s only in the past few years that it’s really embraced desserts as something to be placed on a pretty little pedestal and treated with awe.

El Krepel does just that, presenting a range of elegant temptations lined up on the counter – yes there’s cakes, but it’s the donuts that have got the people talking. Gorgeous in style, tantalizing treats include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. Oozing relaxed femininity, El Krepel should yet become a city center star.

El Krepel ul. Śniadeckich 12/16

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Eat! Reviews

EAST MEETS BEST Vegan food gets an ethnic sparkle...

H

ardcore vegans will already know the name – a sensation in Poznań (and now, also, Gdynia), Falla have branched out to finally enter the capital. This they’ve done triumphantly, with both pricing and location combining to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Despite this, it’d be wrong to label Falla a student joint – it’s way better than that.

Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more.

Already globally recognized for its dynamic vegan scene, the launch of Falla feels like another win for Warsaw. And you wouldn’t guess what, even the drinks are smashing – beyond the expected selection of hipster cola and homemade lemonade, find a handy choice of wine and cocktails: the mango whisky sour was seemingly designed with the sweaty summer in mind.

Fallaul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa

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Eat! Reviews

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

ROLL WITH IT

Sleek, dark and dominated by a lush picture of a breathtaking waterfall, at Na Sushi a smart crowd join forces around a horseshoe-shaped bar to click chopsticks over a top pedigree menu high on enticements: eel rolls with marinated pumpkin and sriracha wrapped in torched yellowtail and lime; spicy octopus rolls; and tempura rolls with shrimp, eel, mushroom, radish, leek and mayo. Fresh, creative and expertly assembled, it’s a welcome addition to a fast rising area. Not cheap, but then good sushi isn’t.

Na Sushiul. Koszykowa 54, fb.com/nasushikoszykowa

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

Home delivery by daily.pl

american Brooklyn Restaurant & Bar Gone are the fancy pants culinary creations once found in the basement, ousted in favor of a menu of pimped-up soul and street food, salads and steaks.

This means fresh tacos not to mention the best-selling ‘Mito’s Beef Ribs’. The ground floor burger bar is more prosaic, offering a standard line-up of burgers and wings.

(C4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18 (Rondo ONZ), tel. 22 114 3434, brooklynbw.eu

american 32 bakeries 32 balkan 32 british 34 burgers & street food 34 chinese 34 fine dining 34 french 38 georgian 38 greek & turkish 39 hungarian 39 indian 39 indonesian 40 international 40 italian 45 japanese & sushi 46 jewish 48 korean 48 latin & spanish 49 mexican 50 middle eastern 50 polish 51 scandinavian 57 seafood 57 specialty food shops 57 steak houses 58 thai 59 ukrainian 60 vegan 61 vietnamese 62

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Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

The work of an American / Polish husband and wife, Koko & Roy feels fun, innovative and pleasingly casual – a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Much like visiting friends, alcohol too also plays its part: in this case, generous cocktails made to NYC specifications.

Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan

Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat

Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl

Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line

Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported

bakeries

EAT! Listings ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul.

Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

burgers & street food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their American-style speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Kura Buffalo Wings Looking to revise and rehabilitate the reputation of fried chicken, this cult spot has cool staff, a busy buzz and a tasty selection of strips, wings and homemade sauces: look on it as KFC for the millenial generation. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, fb.com/ restauracjakura

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Meat Warsaw This project sees a cosmic 1960s rotunda revived as a compact eatery whose brief menu is butch and brawny and comfortably familiar: Philly cheese steak served inside fresh pitta bread; Polish white sausage in a thick corn sauce; and boczek that’s soft in parts and crackly in others – lathered in a thick gloss of plum glaze, it’s a dish that sets off fireworks. (C4) Corner of ul. E. Plater / Świętokrzyska, fb.com/meatwarsaw

Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice.

The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Stepping past a pair of flowing red

drapes at the entrance, guests are ushered in to discover an eclectic world that marries the tastes of New York’s Little Italy to Chinatown next door. This is done excellently with the menu presenting the very essence of ethnic comfort food: General Tso’s chicken, Cantonese roast duck and light, leopard-spotted pizzas.

Brought to you by the makers of MOD, it’s therefore natural that the original style extends to kooky interiors tinged with a trace of retro: a tall mirrored wall and the kind of sparkling chandelier last seen in Boogie Nights. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this wedding white manor house is the epitome of luxury: plush, discreet, elegant and serene, it unwraps like the most beautiful of presents – a network of corridors and stairwells take guests through a series of rooms and side-chambers.

Impossibly almost, the food measures up to the surrounds.For mains, the sea trout is spectacular, arriving alongside creamy root parsley and fried cubed cucumbers.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list (gastronomic or not), there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience.

(E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in

EAT! Listings hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 Do Bo Do Invoking the spirit of Eugeniusz Bodo – an interwar screen legend who once owned an arty café at this very address – Warsaw’s latest fine dining spot throws the spotlight on the copious talents of Marek Kropielnicki. His menu is a marriage of local produce, outrageous ideas and precise technique, though so far appears to have divided the city’s food critics: full report soon.

L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from

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a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs. Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms!

More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul.

Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel.

22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class.

Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%.

Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel.

22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii

informacje i bilety: www.adamiakjazz.pl Projek t wspó ł finansuje m.st. Warszawa

Dofinansowano ze środków Ministra Kultur y i Dziedzic t wa Narodowego

Par tnerz y

Patroni medialni

EAT! Listings Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Salto Any Best of Warsaw list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Salto. The baby of Martin Gimenez Castro, the chef’s South American influences shine on an a la carte menu that includes corvina ceviche with orange and spices and dry aged steaks worth crossing town for. Mind you, the real riches are on the tasting menu, a six-dish volley of riveting tastes.

The inventiveness peaks with elaborate desserts such as cream of roses, marinated lychee ice cream, coconut and beetroot paper. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl

Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Bistro la Cocotte With access through a shadowy courtyard, the sensation you’re stepping inside a little secret is a pleasure in itself. Presenting itself in a riot of red and white gingham Cocotte feels warm and intimate, a factor aided by a small open kitchen and the atmosphere of home.

The menu, chalked up on the blackboard, is a flexible affair that makes use of the ingredients at hand, and is divided into a smattering of light bites, desserts and plat du jour. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 12, tel.

664 906 000

Unique selection of Georgian wines and spirits

tue.-wed. from 1500 to 2300 thu.-fri. from 1500 to 2400 sat. from 1200 to 2400 sun. from 1200 to 2300 address: al. Ujazdowskie 22 00-478 Warszawa email: winebar@rusiko.pl + 48 22 628 45 76

Brasserie Smak A moody, open-plan space overlooking the busy market action of Hala Gwardii, Brasserie is place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey hall. It’s given added impetus by artfully arranged seafood platters, meaty snails and stews that are heavy, robust and thick with goodness. Pl. Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii) L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Klukovka Jana Pawła’s pavilions are the unlikely location of this culinary beacon: amid the aggressive waft of its kebab shop neighbors, Klukova presents itself as a warming mouse hole filled with banter, babble and rich aromas. Specializing in the foods of ‘the east’, this means a menu inspired by the tastes of Georgia, Uzbekistan, Kazakhstan, and more. The mutton manty dumplings are great, and best appreciated with a bottle of unfiltered Lithuanian beer. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A, klukovka.pl Rusiko Explaining Georgian cuisine isn’t all that

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EAT! Listings hard. To the uninitiated, it’s representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people, a cuisine the values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Live music lends the weekends a good-humored twist. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel. 22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish

preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel.

22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/ Taverna Patris This Greek restaurant is not about sophistication and finesse, it’s about truth and taste. Likewise, the interiors have no airs and graces: there’s a rough and ready style that’s apt for noisy celebrations and familial occasions. Tawerna Patris is not about shallow details or surface appearances. Instead, it’s a place of depth, a place of integrity, a place of joy. (G4) ul.

Wał Miedzeszyński 407, tel 22 357 11 11, tawernapatris.pl

hungarian Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb. Full review coming soon. Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl

U Madziara U Madziara looks like it took two days to decorate. No-one goes here to marvel at the interiors though, they go in the knowledge that they’ll find great food at prices all bank cards can support. Chef Gabor’s signature goulash is one of life’s simple pleasures, though the service can come across as distracted and inattentive.

(B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, tel. 22 620 1423, umadziara.pl

SHEESHA , AU T H E N T I C C U I S I N E , M E E T I N G P L AC E , D R I N KS

indian Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation,

Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a plethora of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling pleasantly long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, tel. 606 688 777, bombajmasala.pl

dom-faraona.com, O r d y n a c k a 13 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 & ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Vishnu that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt,

House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl India Express Wola Some notable exceptions / calamities aside, the standard of Indian food in Warsaw is surprisingly high – the problem lies in its ‘sameness’: same recipes, same menus and not enough being done to distinguish one restaurant from the next. So it’s on this point that the latest branch of India Express really excel – open from 8 on weekdays, the draw here is a breakfast menu that gives a new spin to Indian food. B4) ul. Sienna 87, indiaexpress.pl

FOOD & WINE PLAC CZESŁAWA NIEMENA 515 664 995, 22 119 86 36 indiantastewaw@gmail.com www.indiantaste.pl

Indian Taste Some of Warsaw’s better Indian eats are found in the suburbs, and Indian Taste is a case in point. Set within a new residential complex on the border of Żoliborz, this smart-looking labor of love presents traditional favorites alongside lesserknown choices such as mango chicken and lamb amritsari. If you’re in luck, find meals complimented with additional chili concoctions made by the chef. Pl. Niemena 1, indiantaste.pl Mandala Mandala is characterized by its blitzing big spices and a vindaloo capable of giving the sweat glands a work out. For something calmer, the creamy mutton methi malai is a masterpiece. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul.

Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl

Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2018

that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl Tandoor After nearly 20 years at the helm, owner Charanjit Walia has sold up and moved on, leaving a spiritual hole in his life-defining work. His parting shot has been a re-haul which has seen the interior modernized and brightened. Has the food suffered?

Not a jot. The chicken tikka butter masala is as formidable as ever. It’s no longer the self-styled, ‘the best Indian restaurant in Poland’, but it’s deservedly retained a loyal core of customers. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 21/25, tel. 22825 2375, tandoor.com.pl

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams

EAT! Listings hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu A beautifully decorated restaurant on trendy Poznanska. The menu has French and Polish accents and reflects the chef’s creative streak well. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft

flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Casablanca Biały Kamień From the same team behind Na Lato comes Casablanca, a versatile venue that muddies the lines between café, restaurant, wine bar and hangout. Equally comfortable in each of these roles, it’s a place that feels fresh and cosmopolitan, not to mention completely in tune with the swank, glass surrounds. More to the point, it’s given wings to a part of Mokotów that before felt quite sterile. ul. Żaryna 2B, casablancawaw.com.pl Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł.

79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semifreddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl

Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Wedged into that narrow strip of land warsawinsider.pl

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2018

EAT! Listings between the river and Port Czerniakowski, Fest feels unique for Warsaw – a place thoroughly isolated from the concrete badlands. But those thinking of this wooden cabin as a one season summer wonder would be overlooking its wider qualities. Of these, the cooking is at the forefront. Simple and straight-forward yet more-ishly addictive, the menu is an atavistic celebration of fire and brawn.

The ribs, cooked in a wood-fired smoker that stands outdoors, have earned this venue a place in local legend. (G6) ul.

Zaruskiego 8 Grand Kredens This mighty veteran continues to draw a steady custom on account of a wide-reaching menu that aims to keep everyone happy – and it usually does.

The design is surreal to say the least, and is laid out in such a way as to always guarantee a lively atmosphere. (B5) Al. Jerozolimskie 111, tel. 22 629 8008, kredens.com.pl Hala Gwardii Housed in a Tsarist era brick hall, Warsaw’s latest food market / hangout has caused a storm since opening in October. A great tenant mix has seen 25 vendors signed-up, with highlights include raclette from the cool couple at Melt, vegan goodness at Tel Aviv, burgers from the legendary WarBurger and heaps of meat from Brasil On The Plate. Keeping it social are craft beer points, a bio wine stall, and a late night bar that overlooks it all. Open Friday morning through to Sunday night, a visit is essential. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Hala Koszyki Integrating old with new, this huge project brings together some 18 food outlets inside a busy interior that’s all iron girders and industrial lighting. While there’s a feeling that there should have been a bigger focus on artisan, independent traders, that’s done nothing to dent Koszyki’s astonishing popularity. Units of note include the Gringo Salsownia, Port Royal Fish & Oyster Bar, and the Sobramesa Tapas Bar. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 InFormal Kitchen There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat

from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Locally inspired, but with a French twist, the tastes are precise and well-balanced, but also varied enough to give a seemingly simple dishes several interesting sub-plots. From the outside, it looks like something straight from the 6th arrondissement. Through the door, and diners are met head-on by a seductive space that’s dark, intimate and full of gleaming glass: beautiful. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel.

22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl

EAT! Listings MOD Chef Trisno’s menu sets his French culinary training against his Singaporean upbringing. The outcome is a card (actually, a printed sheet of paper) that makes for dangerously enjoyable reading: duck hearts with beetroot / soy emulsion and braised red cabbage; duck confit with pok choy, soy / red wine sauce and spicy cranberry chutney. Moderate prices and funky décor (a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants hanging from the ceiling) give it an ad hoc edge and plenty of character. Note: by day its Warsaw’s top donut store, so visit at night for their proper menu. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister. Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69.com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are falvors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Orzo Functioning until recently as Aioli by Mini, the subsequent re-brand has seen the industrial interiors enhanced by a mother lode of plant life and greenery.

Other changes include the addition of orzo-based dishes as well as a new motto that asserts their connection to ‘people, music, nature’. A cynical attempt to attach themselves to Warsaw’s fad for

healthy living, or something more special?

We’ll check back soon to check just which it is. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5 Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink color lend a dapper sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Plato BEST WAWA 2017 “Neo Bistro” Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Rozbrat 20 Much noise has been made about Rozbrat 20’s bread and wine selection, but their food is also something of a standout. Our trip in December meant twirls of herring pickled in vinegar and herbs and surrounded by a whorl of pond green colors; expertly assembled and boisterously flavored Hungarian foie gras; and a roll of gelatinous pork with ribbons of crispy salsify and a reassuring, fleshy taste. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste

juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy

A PLACE IN WHICH WINE PLAYS THE FIRST CHORD IN HARMONY WITH WHAT APPEARS ON THE PLATE…

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2018

cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, chef Łukasz Andruszkiewicz has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup the brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel.

22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food.

Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing.

Recommended is the Croatian salad which rrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with

EAT! Listings mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl Winsky Opened in November, Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a

sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl

Bordo Offering a breakfast menu from 9 onwards, Bordo starts busy and finishes even busier. Find simple but accurately reproduced Italian recipes and pizza ovens that are expertly manned. (D4) ul.

Chimelna 34, bordo.com.pl DaCurio Although it looks small and humble DaCurio have made quick work of amassing an enthusiastic following. Credit for that rests with the Roman-style pizza that

comes sold by the slice. Made using Italian oils and flour, the pizzas here deserve the adulation they’ve received. (E3) ul. Tamka 45A Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010.

Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented

by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed.

Top quality imported products, a dimly-lit romantic atmosphere, a tasteful design and faultless food: no wonder so many rate this as their favorite Italian. (D5) ul.

Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic,

BORDO HAS BEEN PRESENT IN THE HEART OF WARSAW FOR 17 YEARS Breakfast: 7 days a week from 9 a.m. till noon • Order breakfast and get a second one for just 1 PLN Lunch: 19 PLN (Mon – Fri, noon till 4 p.m.) • Soup + main + dessert Mediterranean cuisine, focaccia, bruschetta, sandwiches, pizza, pasta, Italian wines, cocktails, and a choice of lemonade.

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EAT! Listings lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter.

As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel.

22 829 6969, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri Off-hand there’s about three or four pizzerias in Warsaw that really get it right, but Otto, this place gets it righter. If that’s not a word then apologies, the thing is that’s exactly what it is. The artichoke pizza is an orgy of melty greatness, but it’s the margherita that’s the king: larger than the plate it’s served on, it’s a celestial experience from start to finish.

What about the place itself? It looks every bit as delicious as it tastes. Set within the former, pre-war Hotel Saski, from the outside it shines amid the grind of Pl. Bankowy like a diamond in the rough.

Inside, it’s retro Little Italy – only new, polished, slick. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri

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Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul. Marszałkowska 115

japanese & sushi Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54

Benihana Fire, flash, show and sizzle: the Benihana experience merges cooking with cabaret with diners sat ringside around teppanyaki grills. These cooking stations are the stage for the Benihana crew to demonstrate their riveting range of nifty knifework and daredevil antics. Outside of the realm of the grill, the sushi is also strikes the right spot. (C4) ul. Twarda 2/4, benihanapoland.com Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes,

what would otherwise appear as an oversized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Gabriel de Garcia & Sakana It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, but Spaniard Gabriel de Garcia takes things in a new direction with his spectacular translation of this Japanese craft. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations (seasonal fruits and flowers figure highly), his creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness.

Expect 2018 to get even better as word starts to spread of the magic that’s being woven. (D2) ul. Moliera 4/6 Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton.

Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat

EAT! Listings choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh. In summer check out their terrace.(D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors

befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

the hell went wrong? Last chance coming up. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62

jewish

The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times. Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forwardthinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on. (F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700

Tel Aviv Although this multicultural melting pot is best-known for its Israeli street food, it’s the shift towards ‘vegan fine dining’ that has really caught the attention. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

korean Ban Bao After a strong start Ban Bao have settled into mediocrity – and occasionally worse.

The Insider’s last visit was defined by K-Fries that looked suspiciously like oven chips, gristly Korean Fried Chicken and bao buns that were hardly edible. What

KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assort-

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table.

Discover a seasonal menu skillfully crafted by our Chef Maciej Majewski, who combined the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist. Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by making you feel you’re participating in a live culinary show. During the summer time, we also invite you to enjoy our signature dishes on an outdoor terrace.

E-mail: brasserie.moderne@sofitel.com Tel.: +48 22 657 83 82 www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

Visit us Mon – Sun: 12 p.m. – 11 p.m. | 11 Królewska St | 00-065 Warsaw

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EAT! Listings ment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after

a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Powidoki Set in the cool white cube that is the Museum of Modern Art, you’d think that Powidoki’s riverfront location would make it a highly seasonal destination. Not so.

Though the menu’s brief and the background highly casual, the Korean choices feel more sophisticated and complex than anywhere else, a point that serves to keep business brisk. Served in a turmeric tomato sauce, the pork dumplings are an almost compulsory order. (E2) ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22 Sora Maybe it’s not the best, but it’s certainly

the best-known Korean restaurant in town. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It all tastes even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul.

Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel.

22 324 5781, casapablo.pl

The recently opened restaurant and bar Mokotowska 69 is a perfect place for those who enjoy refined food and excellent wine. The restaurant offers classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, delicious steaks and a wide range of wine from all over the world. Mokotowska 69 was designed for those who enjoy Polish cuisine and those who would like to try classic Polish dishes with a modern twist, such as Mazurian crayfish in rowan brandy cream sauce, roasted catfish with pearl barley and beets or roasted duck with pears and blackcurrant. The restaurant also specialises in steaks made from American Black Angus (certified prime grade by the USDA), Scottish Aberdeen Angus and the highest quality Japanese Tajima-gyu cattle, “Kobe-style”: class 5, marbling 9+.

ul. Mokotowska 69, tel. (+48 22) 628 73 84 / (+48 22) 627 20 33, www.mokotowska69.pl

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EAT! Listings mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country.

This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl

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La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better.

Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

expertly constructed and served with salsas that sing with gusto. Set within shouting distance of the US Embassy, peak times see Urban Burritos fill to the seams with America’s finest. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

Margarita Kolendra First impressions reveal a venue that looks like it wasn’t so much put together on the cheap as it was put together overnight. In essence, you’re left eyeing a sparse white room emboldened by a vulgar assortment of garish, peasant fabrics. The menu, though limited and restrictive, is one of those magic works of passion so rarely seen on Warsaw’s Mexican map. These are dishes delivered with real dash and spirit: if in doubt, order the Al Pastor tacos. (F1) ul. Okrzei 35, fb.com/MargaritaKolendra

Dom Faraona Sitting just off Nowy Świat, this Egyptian restaurant comes soaked in the soothing scent of the sheesha. The comprehensive menu has plenty of zingy Middle Eastern small plates for starters, though really earns its stripes on account of its grill dishes: the lamb ribs are a house specialty. If you like what you see, visit their cafe in CH Panorama. (E4) ul. Ordynacka 13, dom-faraona.com

Urban Burritos It’s here, in this unassuming subterranean world, that people gather for what is being hyped as Warsaw’s top burrito.

Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushroom, wraps come

middle eastern

Florentin A quite beautiful, pale-colored dining room that boldly presents the cuisine of modern day Israel. High on North African twists and turns, there’s a creativity at work here that marks Florentin out as one of the most exciting openings in recent times: if in doubt, the veal with

EAT! Listings harissa, grilled pepper and pear puree is a winning order that deserves full attention. Onto dessert, and make space for the basil panna cotta served with ‘tomato jam’. (E4) ul. Smolna 40, fb.com/ FlorentinWarszawa

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoalgrilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

(B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw,

SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2017 “Modern Polish” BEST WAWA 2017 “Chef” Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of late has seen chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli. Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek focuses on a different region each month – November was a goosey exploration of Kujawa-Pomerania and included such flights of fancy as a goose-stuffed donut for starter. Intimate, forward-thinking, thrilling, it’s no wonder foodies talk about

We’ve been thrilling Warsaw with authentic Lebanese tastes for 21 years!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl warsawinsider.pl

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings this place with reverence and awe. (E3) ul.

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Inside, the ground floor restaurant looks chic and elegant: tall windows and long polished tables, a granite bar and sleek looking lines. The menu backtracks through the passages of history to present ‘old Warsaw’ dishes as seen through a distinctly modern lens, with the high point being a 15-course tasting menu for zł. 60. That translates to a barrage of artfully adorned, telescopic-sized plates.

Some work are great, but others are even greater. All in, it’s an excellent ambassador for the new face of Old Praga. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist

Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bowtied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

smakiwarszawy.pl

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EAT! Listings Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern

in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków Put simply, it works on every level: from

the service to the space – outside, a terrace featuring upcycled crates overlooking Morskie Oko, and on the inside, a cute little room with woodsy bits and big glass jars of mystery ingredients. It’s casual, but still fit for more serious roles: e.g. girlfriend night. And the food: exceptional.

Lots of seasonally changing choices that on our visit meant salmon sausage matched with beetroot and horseradish sauce along with pinches of lavender and fennel. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Restauracja Pod Gigantami All pomp and splendor, huge portraits of monarchs in ermine stare down from the walls; pristine parquet floors gently creak underfoot; from another chamber, the sound of clinking glasses whispers through the air. Yet as much as the interior makes an impact it fails to steal the show. That belongs to Paweł Zieliński, a chef whose biography includes a stint at the Michelin starred L’Ecrivain in

Focaccia Ristorante seafood thursdays

by Samuele Mariani

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings Dublin. Now back in Poland, his menu is a patriotic proclamation of all that is good.

It’s here the Insider enjoyed its favorite żurek of 2016. (E5) Al. Ujadowskie 24, tel.

22 629 2312, podgigantami.pl

Great food

Seasoned polish steaks

Wonderful service

Beef n’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47a tel. +48 785 025 025 mon-sat: 12.00 - 24.00 sun: 12.00 - 23.00

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Restauracja Polska “Różana” The rarified atmosphere of Różana is a pleasure indeed. Close to the frontline of Mokotów / Śródmieście, you’d never guess the proximity of the center. Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Słoik Jarheads will love Słoik, a place lined with glass jars brimming with colorful ingredients and bright preserves. Find natural Polish produce and traditionalsounding dishes treated with a careful and contemporary hand. The approach pits modernist against classic, and the winner is, well, you. This is traditional Polish food updated for the discerning, latter day palate – and it’s really quite something. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 600 396 688, restauracjasloik.pl Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best.

ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl Talerzyki Presenting big flavors on small plates, here’s a place that miniaturizes the more glorious aspects of the nation’s cuisine and does so in style. The usual suspects are here – silvery slithers of herring; glistening pickles; and beef tartare that flushes raw redness – and if any extra oomph was needed then that’s supplied by classic, old school cocktails served by smooth-talking gents in crisp shirts and braces. Smart and stellar but never silly or over-played, Talerzyki manages the improbable by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming out trumps. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl U Szwejka Named after the fictional Czech soldier Szwejk, the food here would certainly appeal to the tubby man himself.

Bestowed with Prague street signs, the food is a hardy, meaty affair, and arrives in XXXL portions. The price to quantity (Note: not quality) ratio guarantees queues (yes, queues) that stretch out on the street every weekend. (D6) pl. Konstytucji 1, tel. 22 339 1710, uszwejka.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

EAT! Listings Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielnik A quiet Mokotów side street is the setting for this little secret. In it, flowers, lots of them, and a warming wood interior just right for winter. In summer, head instead to their glorious garden across the street in the park: adding a sophisticated twist to the holy grill, the skewered lamb is to die for. (D10) ul. Odyńca 15, tel. 22 844 3500, restauracjazielnik.pl Zielony Niedźwiedź A refuge of swish fancy, think of the Green Bear as a place of sanctuary and seclusion and of chic, high living. From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do – certified by Poland’s nascent Slow Food movement, the menu gives big billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry stocked. But the truth is, these aren’t the only stars of the show. Led by Wojciech Deres, the kitchen team are an accomplished bunch. The Insider’s November visit included a rousing goose terrine and finely balanced veal sweetbreads.

When skies are cold and granite, it’s food like this that helps you carry on. (E4) ul.

Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl

food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Full review coming soon. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl Lokal na Rybę Open just three days a week, the limited hours have created a supply / demand situation which sees this basic-looking venue often packed out. The menu is revised on a weekly basis though never really goes beyond three starters and a couple of mains – but that’s all they need to captivate the public. In recent times, octopus goulash and smoked herring pierogi have played distinctive roles. (D9) ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4, fb.com/ lokalnarybe U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

scandinavian

specialty food shops

Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish

Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit

in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with

Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Samira Now in bigger and better premises, this Lebanese supermarket offers a comprehensive rundown of imported goods that ranges from spices, preserves and rubs to nuts, olives, teas and soft drinks. ul. Powsińska 64A, tel. 22 825 3363, samira.pl Targ Śniadaniowy The idea is a bit different as it is out in the open air, on the grass, so good weather is a must. Part healthy food market, part breakfast picnic, part educational space, part chance to get your two wheeler fixed but above all, an idyllic way to spend a Saturday morning in a beautiful part of town. Now also present in three other locations: check their web for details.

Al. Wojska Polskiego, tel. 508 121 891, targsniadaniowy.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper A social space that encourages friends to gather and make merry over big meaty courses. Served on heavy tree stump plates, steaks here use Polish Angus aged for a 28-day period. If you’re into the concept of sharing with your fellow man, then the Beef n’Pepper plate offers a pile of everything: wings, ribs, steak.

(C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy

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EAT! Listings and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl You

ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl

thai Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we

enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting.

Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel. 22 126 1943, basil-lime.pl San Thai Informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming.

Though open for just a few months, so far San Thai have found themselves

Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Mięsny Joining the dots between butcher, deli and bistro, Mięsny presents a smattering of wooden tables inside a monochrome floored, white tiled interior adorned with graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals. Views look onto a busy butcher’s counter while the menu is a short rundown of carnivorous pleasures: T-bone steaks, acorn-fed pigs, beef tongue and duck rillettes. Full review coming soon. (H4) ul. Walecznych 64, fb.com/ miesnydel

Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found

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EAT! Listings commended for their fiery recipes and diverse range of dishes. A half-decent wine selection adds to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl

Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices

– queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024 Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl Wi-Taj Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment

of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and

H A R M O N I Z E D BY C H E F G A B R I E L D E G A R C I A , D I S C O V E R W H AT H A P P E N S W H E N T H E PA S S I O N AT E TA S T E S O F S PA I N M E E T T H E M I N I M A L I S T P R E C I S I O N O F J A PA N …

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EAT! Listings plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja

vegan & wholefood 30 Koszyków In light of the lavish, local vegan choice, critics could call the menu at 30 Koszyków a little mundane – hummus peaked three years ago, didn’t it? Yet while the concept might not feel new, the execution does. From a limited set of choices, Koszyków’s fast expanding customer base enjoy a range of kick-ass hummus recipes that have acquired a serious following: the beetroot is highly

recommended. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, fb.com/30koszykow Bar Stołeczny So far we’ve seen Warsaw’s vegan scene embrace Mexican cuisine, Italian, Japanese, Thai and lord knows what else. Stołeczny’s kitchen chooses to keep things closer to home, instead sourcing inspiration from the milk bars of yore.

It’s a simple selection of pancakes and pierogi here, but one that’s also simply done well. Tuck in inside a basic interior with a green gingham motif – sometimes, you don’t need much else. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/barstoleczny

Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and

addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Krowazywa Packed with girls wearing skating clothes and moon boots, this burgery makes a big boast that their whole menu is 100% plant-based and their food compiled using ‘the best, freshest, unprocessed and full-balanced ingredients.’ The Warzywex, a burger composed of marinated and grilled slices of local veg, is an absolute winner. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, tel.

The Pink Lobster is enthusiastically visited by connoisseurs of the good things in life: find top range produce given the fine dining treatment courtesy of chef and co-owner Jarek Walczyk (President of the Chef’s Club Foundation, Head Chef Bocuse d’Or Poland, and the brand ambassador for 92, ZT Kruszwica, and Bursztyn cheese).

UL. ŻURAWIA 6/12, PINKLOBSTER.PL MOB: +48 572 672 772 RESERVATIONS: KONTAKT@PINKLOBSTER.PL

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EAT! Listings 881 777 894 ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home.

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review

next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/leonardo.verde. restaurant Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122

TRY OUR BUBBLE-waffles WITH HOME MADE ARTISAN GELATO. Nowogrodzka 15 Al. Jana Pawła II 43/25 Francuska 48 Hala Koszyki tel. 509 912 282 www.melody.pl

Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Organitheka Seasonal, fresh, organic: Organitheka is all these and more. Raw, plant-based meals are their principal claim to fame, though these are accompanied by a selection of cold pressed juices, raw chia desserts, coconut yogurts and other surprises: the tiny dining room belies the depth of choice and flavor. (C4) ul. Twarda 1, fb.com/organitheka Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana. All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’.

(G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A

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Youmiko Vegan Sushi Already well-established in Kraków, Youmiko enter Warsaw’s vegan sushi market hot on the heels of Edamame on Wilcza nearby. There’s definitely more of a hipster, ‘urban guerrilla’ feel to Youmiko, but the sushi is every bit a success. Often better than ‘the real thing’. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Vietnamka BEST WAWA 2017 “Casual Dining” Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing.

As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls.

Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens.

(H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/ vietstreetfoodpl

DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

WORKERS’ PARADISE

Set inside one of the concrete towers at the top of Tamka, Labour Café’s clattery door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. Crowded with creative types chatting to the sound of whistling coffee machines, it’s the sort of spot that exudes a reassuring buzz of general cafe clamor. But Labour’s appeal is twofold: if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – flip the back door open to discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light.

Labour Cafe ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

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DRINK! Listings

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DRINK! Listings

SET TO WORK

With more people t h a n e v e r w o r king from home, a growing number of bars and cafes are catering to this expanding demog ra p h i c . . .

Campus Google

ul. Ząbkowska 33C, campus.co/warsaw The Campus Cafe is accessible to all but requires registration – a simple (and free) process that can be done in a flash. As you’d expect, it’s a mega cool space with super snappy internet speeds, gazillions of sockets and lots of ambitious, trend conscious youngsters talking about their start-up. It’s an atmosphere in which you get things done – and feel good about doing so.

Chłodna 25

ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl Ten years ago this would have been the most popular ‘work café’ in Warsaw – people would travel miles just to be there. Things have quietened down substantially, and that’s to the ultimate benefit of those that want to get work done.

The drinks range is decent, and extends to a fridge of craft beer to act as your 5 p.m. treat.

Coffeedesk

ul. Wilcza 42, fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza Reliable wifi – check. Lots of light – check. Fab coffee – checkity check! If you bag a seat early, then you’re laughing, but Coffeedesk’s popularity means even early birds aren’t always guaranteed a good spot to work.

Despite this, it’s such a super cool environment many don’t mind taking the gamble.

Daft Cafe

Pl. Europejski 1 (Warsaw Spire), daftcafe.pl With a location inside the Warsaw Spire, you’re dead right to expect the place to be all slim fit shirts and shiny shoes. Plus points are many and include a futuristic style, well-spaced tables, humongous windows and sockets for every table. In the nearby lobby, there are even some ‘anti-noise’ chairs enabling you to make that call in peace and quiet.

EmEsEn

ul. Pańska 3, fb.com/emesen.kawki Owned by the Museum of Modern Art, EmEsEn haven’t just survived the destruction of the gallery once found in the now demolished Emilia building, they’ve seemingly thrived. Heaving with heavyweight art titles and photo albums, the crowd that gathers in this café/ bookstore is suitably leftfield and creative. On the work front, strong wifi and plenty of plugs make this one of the better venues in which to put your nose to the grindstone. Aiding your endeavors is a serious choice of coffee sourced from roasters such as The Barn from Berlin and Melbourne’s Atomica.

Etno Cafe

ul. Marszałkowska 87, etnocafe.pl Having already made a big noise in Wrocław, Etno landed in Warsaw with a reputation to uphold. This they’ve done through a combination of factors. Good coffee is definitely up there, but whether intentional or not they’ve also become known for their work-friendly environment: fast wifi, comfortable seats, steady tables and air-con when needed.

And there’s space, as well – never do you feel like you’re stacked together as if in some far Eastern sweatshop.

Kafka

ul. Oboźna 3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl Its proximity to the uni keeps the student headcount high, with the intellectual (“OMG, I need to get that essay finished!”) atmosphere given added oomph by the stacks of books that line the wall (buy ’em for ten zlots a kilo). There’s certainly as much typing as there is reading, with a decent number of outlets and healthy connection speeds encouraging people to flip open their laptops and get that assignment filed on time.

Kawiarnia Fabryczna

ul. Fabryczna 28/30, kawiarniafabryczna.pl Fabryczna’s quiet neighborhood air makes it one of the savvier work spots in town, with digital nomads attracted by its laidback spirit, top draw coffee and overall atmosphere – it’s easy to dwell here for long sittings.

Państwo Miasto

ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl Catering to Muranów-based freelancers, Państwo Miasto features consistently quick wifi, fair-togood socket access and a daytime atmosphere that feels buzzy enough to enjoy working out-ofoffice, but also studious enough to actually get your stuff done. If there’s a downer, then that’s the grating sound of chairs screeching on the flagstone floors: you wouldn’t be the first to wear noise reduction headphones.

Resort

ul. Bielańska 1, fb.com/klubokawiarniaresort Set on the corner of Pl. Teatralny, Resort’s location keeps trade busy, but not to the extent that pandemonium reigns – at least, not during the day (that’s saved for evening when the place morphs into a lively bar). During daylight hours it’s a relaxed, spacious zone with warm color tones and plenty of sunshine sloping through the blinds. warsawinsider.pl

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Drink! Brewery Spotlight THE BACKGROUND

It all started with a love story! Meet Arletta and Grzegorz, two childhood friends that kept in touch, eventually got it together, quit the corpo rat race and chose to start a brewery. Not just any brewery mind, but what’s come to be recognized as one of the leading lights on Poland’s craft beer map.

“Warsaw might be the political capital,” grins Grzegorz, “but Wrocław is the beer capital!”

THE BREWERY

Opened in 2014, the name doesn’t just reflect the Wrocław’s preoccupation with bridges, but also the brand’s wider philosophy. “We wanted to brew beer,” says Grzegorz, “that would build the most beautiful of bridges – between people, cities and countries, and between history, the present and the future.”

THE BEER

BUILDING BRIDGES

Operating in Wrocław, Browar Stu Mostów have emerged to become one of the nation’s best-loved brewing trailblazers…

There’s three product lines to note: first, Salamander, marketed as being ‘the essence of the beer revolution’. As such, find a crafty range of award-winning beers such as Hoppy Violet Potato Lager, Wheat Porter and an exceptional Pale Ale referred to by some as “the best brewpub beer in Poland.” Then, there’s the WRCLW label that seeks to ‘redefine classics’ whilst using only traditional ingredients. Finally, check Art +, a collaborative project that has seen Stu Mostów join forces with foreign groundbreakers such as Pennsylvania’s Pizza Boy Brewing and the Spanish-based Naparbier. But the Insider’s favorite? That’s the Mango & Peach DIPA produced in tandem with cult Swedish mob Brewski.

Yes you can! Found inside a former cinema, the fact that Stu Mostów is a fair way out of town doesn’t stop anyone. Overlooking all the shiny inter-galactic brewing equipment is a cool bar serving not just the full portfolio of Stu Mostów beers, but also some of the best food for miles.

IN WARSAW

Stu Mostów’s beers regularly find their way into Warsaw’s tap bars, so keep an eye on the ontap.pl page. For something for home, check out the beer store in Hala Gwardii.

Browar Stu Mostów ul. Jana Długosza 2-6 (Wrocław), 100mostow.pl

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TOP PHOTO COURTESY OF STU MOSTÓW, BOTTOM ED WIGHT

CAN I VISIT?

DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B The Alchemist The great British tradition of ‘a pint after work’ is gathering steam in PL, thanks in part to places like this. Lively and cosmopolitan, The Alchemist’s broad ranging appeal – not to mention ‘self-service beer wall’ – makes it a winning gathering point for 5 p.m. drinks. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3,

Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul.

Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and

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25, klubchlodna25.pl

Jagiellońska 13

Beirut Newly expanded, Beirut has walls dusted with cult album covers, documentary posters and witty graffiti inspired by Banksy. Busy in the day, and absolutely packed at night, order unconventional beers from androgynous, well-inked staff standing behind a sandbag bar decorated with silver hand grenades and a model tank. During the day there’s a lot of competitive posturing as media types pose by their Macs. But come night, this veneer of cool dissolves into one happy blur. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

thealchemist.pl

Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue), it’s a bar that’s dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a lifeaffirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61

of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras. (B3) ul. Chłodna

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 Hard Rock Cafe Full Throttle cocktails, lively staff and a classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 24

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the wood-clad Kraken features a wall

DRINK! Listings of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Lolek A boisterous pub with a Bavarian, bacchanalian spirit and a legendary reputation. Though this park-centered bar is best-known for its long summer nights, once the cool weather sets in find strangers squishing together indoors on shaky benches in a rough-and-ready interior. With sausages grilling over an open fire, and the constant din of sloshed merriment in the background, you understand why many have a soft spot for this atmospheric institution. (A8) ul. Rokitnicka

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl.

distinct Asian accents and is enjoyed in a rough-chic interior of painted brickwork and dangling lights. Come night it feels dark and divey, the kind of place you head to party. And party you will – closing at two during the week and four (and beyond) at the weekend, the vibe is hard and energetic and befitting of Poznańska.

Zbawiciela), planb.pl

(D5) ul. Poznańska 16

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes. Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5) Al.

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27

Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

Smak Brasserie Open Friday through to Sunday, the upstairs gallery inside Hala Gwardii has views of the market hall action below and a design that’s based around moody lighting, open spaces and rescued furnishings. A fine place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey, pre-war hall. (C3) Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii)

W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6,

Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above. (A4) Pl.

oparyabsurdu.pl

20 (Pole Mokotowskie), lolekpub.pl

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a café, book in hand, while soft summery sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous café-bar with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes. Never does it feel too trendy, or too hipster – it’s a place that’s all about atmosphere and friendship. (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul.

Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

Ul Cool and current, the globalized menu has

Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul. Bagatela 10 warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings cafés Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3,

sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5) ul. Hoża 58/60

tion and laid-back vibe, the menu is built around French cheeseboards, raclette and super sexy baguettes. (D6) ul.

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26,

Śniadeckich 18

czuly.pl

ul. Mokotowska 17

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers) Fat White have a beauty of an interior: swan white with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. Coffee comes from Kofi Brand, while sandwiches are made by personal chef / co-owner Filip (that’s his Scooby Doo van outside!). (C1) ul. Andersa 6

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27,

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna

ministerstwokawy.pl

3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

odette.pl

Kos Kos is a place intent on stitching the neighborhood together. That much is made clear by a diverse events calendar that features a panoply of activities: yoga courses to weekend brunches via the occasional kid’s improvisation class. As commendable as these social actions are, it’s the basics that Kos do so well.

Drenched in natural sunlight, perch on the windowsill and enjoy swift wifi, awardwinning coffee and a menu of homemade snacks and bits. (D4) ul. Chmielna 9A

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6)

bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Café Iluzja Bathed in white, black and shades of grey, it’s an allusion to the black-and-white films of bygone days. The interiors as a whole were designed in a 1950s vibe and the massive armchairs are by far the best part. What more do you expect from a café inside a cult socialist era cinema. (C9) ul. Narbutta 50A, afeiluzja.pl

Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffee Karma Order a smoothie, switch off the phone, open a book – it’s that sort of place.

Concerts and art shows figure in their repertoire, as does rather good coffee. (D6) pl. Zbawiciela 3/5, coffeekarma.eu

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to

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Krem A chic city center hangout with all the swanky, urban elegance of the 8th arrondisement. Opened by the same team behind Monsieur Leon, find their latest little baby decorated with monochrome tiles, marble-topped tables, and retrostyled mirrors. A place of hip sophistica-

Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4,

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on

DRINK! Listings comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul.

Bielańska 1

Stor Sourcing their coffee from revered roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul.

Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

clubs Klub Spatif A maze-like pre-war tenement has been given a new shot at life courtesy of Spatif, a late night bar / club a few steps removed from a giant house party.

Music is varied, with different nights offering Britpop, soul, jazz, etc., with the diverse crowd spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings. Hidden down in the basement, the smoking room feels like crashing into someone’s living room. Cool but never too far up its own arse, it’s become one of the best late nights you’ll find. Al. Ujazdowskie

decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

barandbooks.pl

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

The View Sat on top of the Spektrum Tower this bar/club has reinvented the whole concept of going out in Warsaw. A truly world-class venture, the open-air deck on the 32nd floor offers striking views of the cityscape, first rate cocktails and an international rotation of DJs. No other club nails the champagne lifestyle with quite the same panache. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

45, klubspatif.pl

Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – you’ll know if it’s your scene. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in

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cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

Bar Wieczorny The cocktails are serious here, with top quality spirits (Vestal, Baczewski, Woodford Reserve) used with equally big name mixes (Fentimans, Big Tom, etc.). Further, you’ll find it’s the right products in the right hands – the staff really know their game. (D8) ul. Wiśniowa 46, barwieczorny.pl Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing the essence of the area, with inventive ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials.

The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul.

Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2018

in Dickens, position yourself in front of the upstairs fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a glass of something tall and lovely: the cocktails are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the season. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20,

≈ PRIVATE EVENTS ≈

LOCATION SHOOTS

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails

DRINK! Listings based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul.

piesczysuka.com

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2)

Krucza 6/14

ul. Wierzbowa 11

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5)

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

ul. Krucza 6/14

Na Lato Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room. (F5) ul.

Rozbrat 44, na-lato.com

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

Pies Czy Suka Monochrome gun metal grey colors are offset by a young crowd attired in red shoes, pink trousers and blue headphones. This clean, concrete space is speckled with plaster moldings of reindeer heads, and excels on the cocktail front. Order from an iPad menu, before settling back for cocktails made using mad scientist, molecular techniques that involve foam, vapor, beakers and other things you’d usually find in Professor Yaffle’s lab. Certainly not as ‘mature’

as the new breed of cocktail bars, but definitely more fun. (D4) ul. Szpitalna 8A,

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(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5) ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

Zamieszanie Cuda Na Kiju have built on their continuing success by adding this spot in the glass block next to their tap pub. Here though it’s cocktails that are the draw.

Pre-bottled in a secret room downstairs, meaning none of the ad-libbed artistry of other cocktail bars, and tastes that are closer in line to 90s alcopop drinks than anything else. That doesn’t stop a young crowd from swamping the place come the weekend. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12 Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an

unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4) ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

craft beer Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan.

Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul.

Moniuszki 1A

Bistro Warszawski Kapsel Occupying a (very) small corner unit on Tamka, there are some who might better remember this address as the short-lived home of Heritage Birreria Artigianale – an Italian inspired craft beer bar. The beer taps have survived, only now you’ll find them tweaking out artisan brews closer to home. Of the other noteworthy changes, the addition of a TV screen resolutely tuned to any live football has been seen as another major plus. ul. Tamka 9 Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Chmielarnia Marszałkowska With Warsaw’s tap bars all falling over each other to stock the latest tap beers, your options are frequently similar from bar to bar – which is when a good fridge becomes important. Not only can you actually see into Chmielarnia’s, you’ll find it housing the most exciting brews trending around the globe: from the edgy Bermondsey breweries to the Scandinavian giants. Broaden your horizons! (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16, chmielarnia.waw.pl

DRINK! Listings Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeermuranow

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 4

Eufemia Even in a country that prides itself on deceptive addresses, Eufemia outdoes them all by suggesting gig-goers head to Krakowskie Przedmieście. Actually, you need ul. Traugutta, and from there to search out the salmon pink palace that’s entered via Niżyńskiego. Obvious, huh? Slipped down some narrow steps, Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished in simple style with occasional flourishes provided by the local art school. Drinks come from 12 taps squirting out Polish craft beer, while food is a welcome affair involving pulled pork burgers, pastrami and even vegan curry. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5 Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal. (D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota. com.pl

2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Hoppiness You’re in good hands here – opened under the patronage of the Pracownia brewery, this small-scale operation goes beyond merely offering the beers of its sponsor. There’s 12 taps in all, a decent fridge to geek over, an ace burger and beer-based ice cream – hooray! (D4) ul.

Chmielna 27/31, hoppiness.ontap.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Interiors are balanced with the pre-war warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the smell of spillage.

Found somewhere towards the top of the national hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices to note-taking beer nerds. The male to female ratio is somewhere near equal, which in itself feels pretty unique. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement.

By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market.

There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl

Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul.

Szeroki Dunaj 11

in the early 20s and soar upwards from there – in return, you’re getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries.

For cheapskates, Polish options kick-off at approx. 13 PLN. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9 Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw Light and bright the sparsity of the interior is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer. That means twenty taps firing out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’ and yuzu flavored Berliner weisse. It’s an utter geek-gasm for beer nerds. Prices for the Danish stuff start

Same Krafty Occupying two narrow, rugged rooms, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss.

Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar has become a magnet for those looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. (D1) ul.

Nowomiejska 10, samekrafty.pl

• Fashion Design and Technology Management • Fashion Communications and Brand Design

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DRINK! Listings The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial / loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4

Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Warzą się Losy “Nowhere in Warsaw,” boasts the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.”

Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer.

Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music Chwila Chwila is a reject factory space turned good. Furry cushions, patchwork quilts and student art vie for attention alongside iron girders and industrial leftovers inside what is becoming known as one of the top alternative music venues this side of the river. The toilet alone, papered with trillions of cool posters and magazine covers, is a reason to linger. (B3) ul.

Ogrodowa 31/35

Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider

wine bars Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail. But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers. The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s

vodka Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise. Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

Meta Chains of old bog paper, Karol Gott album covers and other Communist keepsakes litter this shot bar. But for a real blast to the past, visit their Parkingowa venue for a full-on, Polski-style retro disco. It’s hilarious. ul. Mazowiecka 11 / Foksal 21 / Parkingowa 5

Pijalnia Havoc reigns in Pijalnia, and watching all the tears and tiffs on a Friday night is something of a spectator sport. Pickles and vodka are the essential order, while reading matter is supplied via commieera sports reports that are plastered to the wall. many locations, fb.com/pijalnia. warszawa

Pyk i Łyk Thundering through a flimsy door, customers are met by a tiny, divey area that’s devoid of furnishings aside from shelves of vodka and a bar that’s been painted to depict dripping blood. Yikes!

Decorated with bizarre montages of hard drinking rockers, once visitors settle into their vodka rhythm, it reveals itself as a bar of greatness. “No wi-fi,” shouts one sign, “talk to each other and get drunk.”

It’s that kind of place. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 26

10% warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings great, golden talents.(E5) ul. Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl

Polish to classic French and adds an interesting modern twist. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety crates and deep, dark colors. But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl

Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!).

The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl

Dyletanci Often filled to capacity with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, join them on green banquettes illuminated with Tom Dixon lamps. The wine list is fitting of the A-list, and aside from exceptional international choices, also includes interesting wines from the proprietor’s own label – a frankly superb Polish brand called Dom Bliskowice. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is a wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża 25a, hoza. warszawa.pl

Kieliszki Na Hożej Already celebrated for their operation on Próżna, this latest branch continues in much the same vein: classy interiors, a prime location on one of Warsaw’s few surviving pre-war streets and a casual bistro vibe matched up against a glorious Italian influenced wine list.

The concise food menu connects local

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Mielzynski Wine Bar After three years in the pipeline Warsaw’s second outpost of Mielżyński is everything you’d expect: the concise menu is never too complex while the exciting wine choice presents over 500 labels. This vibrant warehouse-style space promises much. (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl

Nowina The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4, nowina.waw.pl

Pani Wina The underlying problem with Warsaw’s wine bars is that too many feel like places of business: anonymous venues filled with suits striking deals. Then, on the other hand, there’s Pani Wina, a place whose design (olive walls, parquet floors, mustard-tinted seating) maximizes the ambiance of this narrow, little nook. That the concise range of tap wines is supplemented by an equally welcome choice of renegade cocktails makes it all the better. (E5) ul. Wilcza 11, fb.com/PaniWina

Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest

selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s awardwinning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/winebarrusiko

WinKolekcja The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines.

Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl

Winosfera Once a pre-war cinema, now a stunning wine bar / store with one of the most impressive collections in Poland: an expense account comes in handy.

Equally notable is the ambitious fine dining menu of Jakub Adamczyk. (B3) ul.

Chłodna 31, winosfera.pl

Winsky One of the strongest openings in recent months (on second thoughts, make that the strongest opening in recent months) presents a menu of itsty, teeny plates, a maverick selection of tap wines, top notch whisky, and an interior that’s all restrained velvety opulence. And then there’s the backdrop – nestled on the ground floor of The Tides development, windows face out onto the inky black waters of the river and the sparkling stadium just beyond. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10 Żurawina Lacking in intimacy, this large white room gets criticized for its jarring artwork and staffing blips – in the world of wine it’s important the customer can connect to the staff: here, we felt like we were joining the SS. But both food and wine score highly, and they’ve earned a staunchly loyal following that includes high flying types and Paris Hilton wannabes that carry yappy dogs in their bag.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34, zurawina.eu

DO!

FASHION FORWARD

Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. Mixing style and technique with quality materials, it’s a label that’s come to be regarded as being at the forefront of affordable Polish female fashion.

Just Paul ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl

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Do! Review

JUST | PAUL SPRING/SUMMER LOOKBOOK

Just Paul’s spring / summer line places an emphasis on carefree style with dresses that are light, chic and airy.

Channeling the energy of the season, Just Paul’s SS2018 look is a riot of juicy colors, blooming floral prints and exotic patterns that hint at the journeys that lie in store.

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DO! Museums

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

Car Museum From Lech Wałesa’s Volvo to Gomułka’s ZIS limo, from German wartime armor to a pretty-in-pink Buick Skylark: incredible in its peculiarity, the random layout, oily smells and cobwebbed corners only add to the sense of treading somewhere special. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy), muzuem-motorzyacji.com.pl

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual

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pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

Invisible Exhibition Head to the Invisible Exhibition to learn first-hand the challenges faced by the blind.

This includes everything from crossing the road to ordering a drink in a bar. Al. Jerozolimskie 123A, niewidzialna.pl

F O T O P L A S T I KO N

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul. Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem This reopened museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

Paderewski Ongoing till 20 May 2018, National Museum in Warsaw, Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

presented to Paderewski by the great artists of the time, including a portrait

by Lawrence Alma-Tadema, Jacek Malczewski’s triptych Music, prints by Leon Wyczółkowski and paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki. In 1930, artists associated with the Zachęta Society for the Encouragement of Fine Arts, such as Edward Okuń, Jan Zamoyski, and Wojciech Kossak, gave Paderewski a portfolio of forty-seven prints and drawings – this exhibition is the first time the whole collection has been presented to the public.

THE OTHER SIDE OF PADEREWSKI

The National Museum in Warsaw begins its celebrations of the centenary of Poland’s regained independence with an exhibition showcasing the collection donated by the pianist, composer and politician, Ignacy Jan Paderewski…

W

hile demonstrating the achievements of this eminent virtuoso, statesman, and proponent of independence, this exhibition seeks to show Paderewski’s lesser-known side – that of a man devoted to his family, a friend to many artists and an enthusiast of Far Eastern art.

A Master of His Times Most of the exhibits on display come from Paderewski’s Swiss villa, RiondBosson near Lake Geneva. The first part of the exhibition, devoted to the artist’s world of music, includes a

grand piano built for Paderewski by Steinway & Sons and a photograph showing an audience of 16,000 people at Madison Square Garden that wonderfully conveys the atmosphere of his rousing concert in 1932. Further parts of the exhibition show Paderewski as a world-class star and document his many journeys: a number of aristocrats, diplomats, politicians and artists were friends with the composer, and testament is provided by the number of dedicated portraits (among them, a signed photograph of Queen Victoria), honorary diplomas and souvenirs.

The exhibition also showcases works

At Home With The Paderewskis The following part of the exhibition is devoted to the composer’s family life with a number of photographs showing his beloved villa in Riond-Bosson, as well members of the maestro’s family – his wife Antonina Korsak and son Alfred, who both died tragically young, and his second wife Helena. The exhibition is supplemented by numerous mementos, including smoking paraphernalia (the pianist was a keen tobacco-lover) and objects related to Helena Paderewska’s hobby: the rearing of pure-breed poultry.

The Orient A sizable collection of Far Eastern art takes a unique place in the exhibition.

Paderewski, like many in his day and age, was an avid follower of this genre, and amassed several hundred objects, which were used to decorate his villa in Riond-Bosson. These include intricate pieces of Chinese and Japanese porcelain and bronze vessels, as well as artefacts made of lacquer, stone, bone and glass. The set of Chinese cloisonné enamels is among the most valuable in Europe.

The Composer Turns Prime Minister Throughout his life, Paderewski was involved in political and social work.

This activity is reflected via numerous documents, photographs and state decorations. When Poland regained independence, Paderewski temporarily withdrew from touring as a musician.

He served as prime minister of the reborn Poland until the end of 1919 and remained an ambassador for the Polish cause until his death in 1941. warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Education listings preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org 702

85 00.

each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of

Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies,

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw

offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul.

Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School accepting

applications for all our locations and programs: Infant & Toddler: age 15 months-2.5 years, Casa: age 2.5-6 years Contact Karolina: tel. 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Elementary: age 6-9, 9-12 years Contact Sylvia: tel. 606 276 112 sylvia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

"Erdkinder" Middle School: age 12-15 years Contact Małgosia: tel. 604 137 826 malgosia@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Warszawa: Szwoleżerów 4, Badowska 19, Tatrzańska 5a, Izabelin-Hornówek: Szkolna 16

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www.wmf.edu.pl

DO! Education listings Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological

& healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul.

Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Międzynarodowa Szkoła Podstawowa Argonaut This elementary school is open for children of all nationalities and backgrounds. It places a focus on learning English as well as additional languages, and has an attractive list of available extracurricular activities.ul. Radarowa 6, tel. 504 509 504, argonaut.edu.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking preschool (16 months to 6 years

of age) with two locations.

The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English. The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

schools American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12

curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@ aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspector-

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

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DO! Education listings ate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a

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well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges.

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal,

Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the

DO! Education listings perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and

pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16,

tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnet is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fullyqualified staff are committed

to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

Warsaw Montessori School Focuses on the Montessori curriculum with an education based on the integration of conceptual learning and real-life experiences. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4, tel. 22 841 3908, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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DO! Education Listings adult learning Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs in a convenient city center location. Also home/company visits and online courses for those with tight schedules.

For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com

Edu & More Polish Language School

incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. Intensive & regular Polish courses for beginners. Business & everyday Polish. ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7, polishonlinenow.com

Frog Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the

‘go to’ choices for new arrivals wanting to polish their Polish. ul. Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.

cooking classes Akademia Kulinarna Whirlpool Find a gleaming kitchen inside a vast warehouse space inside Soho Factory. Mediterranean workshops are the primary foundation, though wine tasting and Polish cooking courses are also available. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), akademiakulinarnawhirlpool.pl

ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

Cook Up Studio Workshops in a gorgeous cooking studio located in a redbrick fortress. Past themes have included Mexican cuisine, knife skills, steak and dessert, with lessons culminating in eating all that hard work. ul.

Racławicka 99 (Fort Mokotów), cookup.pl

Food Lab Studio Food Lab Studio is consistently rated by natives as the most complete cooking school around. Run by the much-admired Grzegorz Łapanowski, recent workshops have included courses focused on knife-work, smoking and sauces. ul. Racjonalizacji 5, foodlabstudio.pl

Little Chef This children’s cooking school has conducted lessons for over 35,000 children since its inception in 2007. Classes are taught in Polish and English and are split into age groups: Mini Chef (ages 3-4), Little Chef (ages 4-7), Junior Chef (7-10) and Teenage Chef (10-16). ul.

Rejtana 15, littlechef.pl

Polish Your Cooking “We aim to demonstrate that cooking is neither boring nor difficult,” say the team behind Polish Your Cooking. Workshops can also be organized for tourists, children’s parties and can be held in English, Spanish or Polish. ul. Długa 44, polishyourcooking.com

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DO! Shopping Listings fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

Mokotowska 61

Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl Joanna Klimas One of Poland’s top fashion designers runs this boutique/ showroom. Choose from the latest collections or have a dress custom made for a particular occasion. ul.

Nowolipki 2, joannaklimas.com

Likus Concept Store The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Stone Island, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel, Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist.

Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40,

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15,

hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul.

Burakowska 5/7

reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic.

That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul.

Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw. com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes,

Viola Śpiechowicz Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a progressive edge – choose from limited pret a porter collection and exclusive haute couture creations. ul. Chopina 5B, violaspiechowicz.com

Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz.

Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul. Mokotowska 41

pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Małgorzata Marszałek Out with the old and in with the new. If you’re looking to change your image then look no further than Małgorzata Marszałek, a style expert that will revamp your look in a way that’s guaranteed to boost self-confidence. “You’ll save time,” promises Małgorzata, “because I know how and where t shop – I make life easier.” malgorzata.marszalek@

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul.

lookoflaw.com, tel. 602 388 300

Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

FANCY A CUP OF POLISH? Learning Polish is really just a piece of cake!

All you need to do is build a daily (or… twice weekly) Polish habit! Forget about multitasking, and forget about procrastinating – be focused! Some ideas? One-to-one Polish lessons, a Polish course, reading in Polish, listening to Polish podcasts, watching the news, etc.

Use ‘deep learning techniques’ and embrace mind maps, visual notes, story building, and discussions – and try preparing your own presentations and projects in Polish! Yeah, I know, it sounds a bit like... learning... but persevere.

Above all, be forgiving of yourself while learning a language – it takes time, it takes effort, and it requires involvement. And once you decide to learn Polish, then keep going!

Cup of Polish ul. Żurawia 6/12, cupofpolish.com

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DO! Shopping Listings malls & department stores Arkadia Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska

Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul.

by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

2, placunii.pl

Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

Ride Warsaw Group cycling classes overseen by a team of Englishspeaking instructors. This is not a leisurely Sunday pedal, but a high energy workout with a banging soundtrack and constant interaction. ul.

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac Wolf Bracka Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl

M e d i a Pa t r o n a g e

gyms

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10, exumagym.com

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

XIII ETHNOGRAPHIC FILM REVIEW “EYES AND LENSES” MAY 4TH - 6TH @ SŁUŻEWSKI DOM KULTURY, UL. BACHA 15

The Eyes and Lenses Review is an annual, three-day ethnographic film festival that presents both new and classic films made by both Polish and foreign artists. This year’s program features several films that have never before been shown to a wider audience. On May 5th the review will be accompanied by a concert by the folk band Kożuch.

ADMISSION IS FREE. FOR FURTHER DETAILS, SEE: OCZYIOBIEKTYWY.ART.PL OR FB.COM/OCZY.OBIEKTYWY

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2018

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

Karolkowa 30, ridewarsaw.com

hair & beauty Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a nononsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul.

Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl

Dotyk SPA Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session. Going further east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage. ul. Biały Kamień 3, tel.

22 898 7272, dotykspa.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-tochild ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56,

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul. Mokotowska 48

thelittlegym.pl

Hair a Porter A staunch favorite among the ex-pat crowd, Hair a Porter offer the ultimate hair experience utilizing talented staff and top-quality products.

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit. com

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented

ul. Belwederska 23 (Regent, level -1), hair-a-porter.pl

Nail & Beauty Bar A top spot for a classic manicure or pedicure – they also do lots of complicated things with gels and other hi-tech nail discoveries. ul.

Mokotowska 26

DO! Health Listings spas & salons

of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32; ul. Bonifraterska 8, ouch.pl

Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13, spa. clochee.com/spa

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense

in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. ul.

Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

Sante The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad

sport

space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’and sky slamming basketball hoops. ul. Bohaterów Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl

Frogs & Co. Warsaw’s only social rugby club welcomes all: supporters, players, young, old, men and women. warsawfrogs.com

W Pionie An 11 meter climbing wall founded by two mountaineers.

Considered one of the most advanced facilities of its kind in the country. ul. Nowowiejska

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał

37B, wpionie.pl

Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. ul.

Gałczyńskiego 4, astanga.pl

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General Listings 5-Star Hotels Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

between-us.eu

Express Relocations

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, reservations@regentwarsaw.com, regent-warsaw.com

Boutique B&B

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

The Rialto Boutique Hotel

car rental

6306, warsawmarriott.com

Regent Warsaw Hotel

ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, rialto.pl

Bristol Hotel ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

Avis

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, Reservations: tel. 801 120 010, avis.pl

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com

Hertz Rent a Car

Hilton Warsaw ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

Indigo

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

ul. Smolna 40, tel. 22 418 89 00, indigowarsaw.com

Westin

InterContinental

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

Interdean International ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel.

22 701 7171, interdean.com

Sheraton

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 621 1360.

relocation companies

B&B

AGS Warsaw

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

CorstJens Worldwide Movers

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417 (from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.),

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

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Excellent Hop on Hop off and one trip service operates every day all year round.

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2018

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Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative. While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours. Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

MODERN WARSAW MARIE CURIE MUSEUM

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. In the square, the Museum of Warsaw is a great primer to the city, while the Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently termed as being ‘the Polish Versailles’, the gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country.

The Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’

documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz installation that commemorates the deportations to Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history. Finally, visit the often unsung Jewish Historical Institute to view their new permanent exhibition: titled ‘What We Were Unable To Shout Out To The World’, it presents rediscovered documents relating to life in the Ghetto.

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre, and after take a walk down the riverfront to the Museum of Modern Art. Across the water, the state-of-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and will thrill stadium nerds and football fans alike.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that thrill non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their giant wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope, while the Chopin concerts held each Sunday (from mid-May) in Łazienki are a local rite of passage.

Now reopened following a thorough refit, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin. warsawinsider.pl

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8 5

3 6 7 2

4

Stadion Narodowy

Kulskiego

Chodk iewicza

Żaryna

8

Biały K amień

7 6

1 5 4 3 2 1

Insider Finds A RIGHT PIECE OF WORK

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Forming part of the Museum of Warsaw’s ‘Collection of Things’, the sculpture titled Work was produced by the Decorative Art Studio, a family-run company originally founded in 1862 as Bracia Łopieńscy. Designed in 1921 by the artist Jerzy Leski, the work embodied attributes that were lionized during that era: a healthy body, a strong physique, and the ability for a bloke to put in a hard shift at work. Purchased by the Łopieńscy brothers, the copyright for the design became the trademark of Bracia Łopieńscy and found itself incorporated on everything from letterheads to stamps.

Specializing in bronze and silver medals, monuments and sculptures, the company forged a reputation as being the best in town, despite facing stiff competition from approximately 140 similar workshops in the capital. Though nationalized in the post-war years (Tadeusz Łopieński was forbidden from entering his own factory, only to then be later employed as ‘Artistic Director’ after the government realized how indispensable he actually was), the expertise of the firm was harnessed by the city who turned to the firm to reconstruct or repair many of the monuments destroyed or damaged during the Nazi occupation: Chopin, Mickiewicz, Copernicus and Zygmunt all received the necessary first aid at the now defunct Łopieńscy workshop at Hoża 55. Despite the vicissitudes of time, members of the Łopieński family can still be found turning out decorative objects from a modest workshop on Poznańska 24.

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Warsaw Insider | MAY 2018

Hello Spring!

New summer garden at Holiday Inn Warsaw City Centre

Holiday Inn Warsaw City Centre Ul.Twarda 52, 00-831 Warszawa