Warsaw Insider August 2018 #264

Warsaw The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

AUGUST 2018

264 08/2018

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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(VAT 8% included)

Great Lake Getaways

ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ALEXANDRE BIRMAN ANYA HINDMARCH BALMAIN AQUAZZURA BURBERRY BALMAIN BUSCEMI BUSCEMI CASADEI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CHRISTIANELIE LOUBOUTIN SAAB SAAB FRANCESCO ELIE RUSSO FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT ISABELKENZO MARANT KENZO MAISON MICHEL KOTUR MARC JACOBS LORO PIANA MANOLO BLAHNIK MAISON MICHEL MR & MRS ITALY MANOLO BLAHNIK ONETEASPOON ONETEASPOON SELF – PORTRAIT SELF – PORTRAIT TOD’S TOD’S TORY BURCH BURCH VICTORIA TORY BECKHAM VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN YVES SALOMON

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

7 Take A Number 8 News 12 Art:

insider@warsawinsider.pl Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

Tytus Brzozowski 14 Interview: Photographer Joanna Szpak Ostachowska 20 Plant Life

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Stuart Dowell Maria Mileńko Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight

FEATURES

2 Warsaw Uprising 2 6 Łazienki Park & 2 Palace 28 Travel: Lake Escapes

EAT!

3 7 Review:

Shrimp House 38 Review: Zoni 40 Review: Guru

DRINK!

73 Review:

Kufle I Kapsle Powiśle 74 Review: Nocny Market 7 6 Roundup: Pimms 77 Review: Long Bar

AUGUST 2018

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

N

umber twenty-four in the ongoing series of ‘questions I hear all the flipping time’ goes something like this: “What keeps you here?” As it happens, that’s not a bad one, particularly because the answer’s got me stumped. Words just don’t seem to work when explaining the complexities of a person’s relationship with a city: sometimes, the two just seem to click. For me, and I don’t think I’m an exception, that magic moment struck the first time I witnessed what the locals call W-Hour. Marking the time that the 1944 Warsaw Uprising broke out, it was a revelatory experience to watch the whole city stop dead as if trying to set a record for a mannequin challenge. An intensively emotive occasion, I think that was the juncture I felt like I’d plugged into the city and seen inside its soul. I’ve been in love ever since. Unsurprisingly, given its importance to the capital, we’ve given the anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising center stage this issue. Elsewhere, we bring you Poland’s greatest lake escapes, an arty inside view of glorious Łazienki, and a green-eyed tribute to the city’s indoor plants. Hope you enjoy it, and see ya’ next time!

ey Account Manager K Agata Sicińska asicinska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Joanna Chmielewska jchmielewska@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com Subscription 12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland.

Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakład Poligraficzny TECHGRAF Tel. (17) 225-28-69

DO!

Lata 60-te 92 Roundup: Summer Cinema 94 Events 96 Museums 109 Guide: Essentials 110 Map 112 Insider Finds

2

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Lake expectations! Join us lakeside on p. 28.

(Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Elbląska 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; fax (48 22) 639 8569; e-mail: insider@warsawinsider.pl Information is accurate as of press time. We apologise for any errors, but cannot be held responsible for inaccuracies. All information ©2018 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

91 Review:

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO MONCLER MR & MRS ITALY ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH VALENTINO BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

ADVERTORIAL

The New

WAVE

Delicious tapas, craft beers, top wines and cocktails and only the best music on board the hottest place in town!

W

ith our phenomenal river views, impressive menu and program of events, few places say summer more than Nowa Fala, a beautiful boat moored on the river next to the Museum on the Vistula and just a few steps from Metro Centrum Nauki Kopernik. Featuring two decks, a pair of bars and beautiful panoramic views, we’ve completely changed the face of the riverside with this fresh, innovative concepts.

Among these is our approach to food: at Przystań Nowa Fala the menu is concise but packed full of brilliantly diverse choices that include four boards of tapas from which to pick from: perfect not just for the daytime, but also for long evenings with friends. The menu also includes pinchos, or small Spanish sandwiches made using carefully selected ingredients: at all times, they’re ideal for a quick snack.

The wide range of beverages is also certain to satisfy even the most demanding of tastes: on the lower deck, find a craftbar with a carefully selected choice of artisan beers, as well as a wide selection of white, red and sparkling wines from various regions. For carefree dance nights, nothing but our cocktails will do!

But Nowa Fala isn’t just a bar and chillout spot: in the summer the repertoire involves great music, film screenings, meditation classes, fitness training and a slew of other attractions. We can’t wait to welcome you!

Przystań Nowa Fala

Bulwar Gen. Smitha Pattona (next to Copernicus Science Museum) fb.com/PrzystanNowaFala

number take a

680,000

The cost of revamping PKIN’s viewing platform…

SHUTTERSTOCK

Conducted by the Kraków-based firm Renovatorium, work has begun on restoring the Palace of Culture’s observation deck back to its original, sparkling white look. Set to continue until midSeptember, the project will include a thorough clean of the façade, the first time such has happened for over 40 years. Visited annually by over 650,000 people, the 30th floor viewing platform has come to be regarded as one of Warsaw’s essential tourist draws. Now, scheduled work won’t just include a meticulous steam clean of the stonework, but also cosmetic changes to the window sills and the careful restoration of associated plaster work and ceiling details. While the plans do not involve PKiN’s other floors, looking into the long-term the building’s management are widely expected to sanction a full zł. 30 million revamp should the current scheme be executed successfully.

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

by Wilamowski Chłodna 15 has become the talk of the town. Trained in the world’s top Michelin starred restaurants by some of the best chefs around, Chef Arkadiusz Wilamowski has worked for Alain Ducasse at the three star Dorchester in London, at Gérald Passedat’s three star restaurant in Marseille and Pierre Gagnaire’s two star Sketch London.

The French and international menu features sophisticated technique, wholesome Polish ingredients, and an exceptional wine list. Placing an emphasis on seasonal, top quality ingredients, Wilamowski’s menu changes frequently to include such ingredients as fresh lobster – one of the chef’s favorite culinary items.

A degustation menu is available for those who wish to sample the chef’s full creativity.

CHŁODNA 15 BY WILAMOWSKI • UL. CHŁODNA 15, WARSAW • RESERVATION@CHLODNA15.PL • TEL. 730 737 644

News One of Warsaw’s least loved monuments faces a graceful retirement after plans were mooted to move it to a museum as part of the government’s ongoing campaign to ‘de-communize’ the country. Unveiled in 1946, Park Skaryszewski’s Monument of Gratitude to the Soviet Army commemorates the soldiers killed during the Red Army’s advance through Praga towards the end of WWII. Frequently subject to acts of vandalism, the monument looks likely to be put into storage before being unpacked once the Polish History Museum is opened in 2021.

THEN & NOW

A new app enabling users to view the Warsaw of 1918 has been released as part of celebrations marking one hundred years of Polish independence. Released in July, Wasza Warszawa 1918/2018 allows people to follow in the footsteps of local heroes such as pedagogue Janusz Korczak, prime minister and composer Ignacy Jan Paderewski, and author Julian Tuwim. Presenting an array of archive images, interactive maps, historical recordings and remastered videos, the app aims to honor the people and places that shaped the capital during its inter war heyday.

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

Over fifty years since they first played in Warsaw, the Rolling Stones returned to the capital to leave a sellout crowd stunned with an electrifying performance at the National Stadium. Marking the end of their No Filter tour, Mick Jagger took time to address the crowd in Polish and back dissenters protesting against the judicial reforms engineered by the ruling government. Reacting to a personal appeal by Solidarity hero Lech Wałęsa, the legendary front man announced: “I’m too old to be a judge, but I’m young enough to sing.” His comments were a direct barb at so-called reforms aimed at dismantling the judicial system by forcing several key judges to retire on account of their age.

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL, SHUTTERSTOCK

Rolling Back The Years

Wild News A GRRRREAT ESCAPE

A 32-year-old male was lucky to escape with just cursory injuries after losing his balance and falling into Praga’s bear enclosure whilst taking a selfie. “The three bears living on the island are pretty old,” said a zoo spokesman, “so they’re weren’t that interested in pursuing him.” Having been gnashed on the hand, the berk was swiftly hauled to safety by firefighters that had rushed to the scene. Cops have since revealed that after receiving treatment for his wounds, the Radzymin man was taken to the drunk tank to sleep off the effects of his session.

Hiss Off!

Police have warned residents of Warsaw about an escaped snake thought to measure up to six-meters long. The news first broke after the shed skin of an Indian Python was discovered in the south west of Warsaw close to the Wisła River. With the story gaining global publicity, rumors have swirled thick and fast as to where the serpent could have come from. Earlier in July, a hand glider came forward claiming to have spotted a man dumping the beast from the boot of his car. Adding a sense of gravity to the drama, police have refused to rule out whether the snake poses a danger to the public.

A stork has landed a Polish charity in hot water after a SIM card inside a GPS tracker used to trace its migratory habits was removed and used to make a series of phone calls – in Africa. The tracker was placed on the bird last year in Siedlce, with the stork since settling in the Blue Nile Valley in Sudan sometime in February. There, it’s trail went cold, that is until EcoLogic, the organization responsible for fitting the bird with its tracker, were handed a phone bill in excess of zł. 10,000.

According to BBC News, the SIM card had been removed and used to make over 20 hours of calls, all of which EcoLogic must now cover themselves.

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

SHUTTERSTOCK

Call of the Wild

Public Art What challenges did you face?

For me, the most important thing was to create a mural that the local community would think was interesting and relevant – that was quite a responsibility.

I wanted to tell the story of the area and its history, which is why my project features buildings that once stood on the street in the 20s and 30s, historical advertising signs and urban processes that were the same then as they are now.

Wall Street

Already well-known for his surreal, Warsaw-inspired watercolors, acclaimed artist Tytus Brzozowski has seen his work supersized to create the city’s latest mural: a stunning 35-meter tall giant on the side of Wola’s Spark office development…

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

WI: Where do you begin with a mural this size?

Tytus Brzozowski: First, with a conceptual sketch. From there, I painted a canvas that was 100 by 40 centimeters. It had to be that big so as to feature all the details I wanted to include – there’s a lot of information hiding in the mural, from specific historical architectural details to people and suchlike. The actual mural then took about three weeks, with six artists involved in replicating my painting. My day-to-day role was to make comments and adjustments to ensure it looked like the original concept – it wasn’t easy by any means, but I think the result speaks for itself.

What do murals say about the city, and why is it important for the capital to embrace this form of art?

Many of our murals are of high artistic value, and large format wall art can be used to commemorate events or people and build the atmosphere of a district.

They can become a symbol of the neighborhood, a tourist attraction, a characteristic point: they can galvanize local communities. Murals can also reflect the soul of a city, and here in Warsaw we still have a lot to express about our history, ideas and identity.

For more on the artist and his work, see: t-b.pl

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

The Warsaw in your art is strangely magical and full of unexpected twists…

I believe Polish cities are a bit crazy… In Central Europe our towns are a little chaotic; they’re a lot less ‘regular’ than the cities found in the ‘Western world’. I like to show that by adding small, surrealistic elements that are as confusing as the everyday events you might encounter on the streets of Poland’s cities.

Interview These are not just little plants purchased as part of some modern trend, but living exhibits that are both splendid and old: spider plants, ferns, weeping figs and jade plants. This is the real #urbanjungle…

Retro-style plants are right now the rage, but the ones in these blocks are not part of a fad. Forget about Instagram and Facebook, there’s more to these plants than likes and reach.

They are not a new discovery and they are not a fleeting fashion: for decades they’ve been cared for by our grandmothers and aunts.

I’ve lived in Grochów for years, and for years I’ve seen the same plants over and over from the corner of my eye. Actually, they’re a familiar sight in the majority of flats that I’ve visited over time. But where once I passed them with a sense of indifference, today I understand their grand, lavish beauty.

Built during the Communist era, the residential blocks of the PRL period have accidentally given us much room to maneuver: long corridors lead to wide windows, creating a space that demands decoration. Without such, we are left with a scene that’s bleak and depressing. On occasions, I wonder if this is a Polish phenomenon; or perhaps one unique to Central and Eastern Europe? Can one ‘claim’ a public area so freely elsewhere?

Now, when friends buzz me into Inside Warsaw’s tower blocks lies a secret green world that apartments, the first thing I hear awaits exploration…TEXT & PHOTOS BY JOANNA SZPAK OSTACHOWSKA their are tip-offs and suggestions: “Check the 30-year-old lemon tree that Pani Dorotka has on the seventh floor,” or, “Visit Pan Stasio’s jungle on floor No. 9: are everywhere, along with napkins, GROCHÓW, POWIŚLE, BIELANY: all he can’t walk anymore, so just sits out districts heavily pockmarked with tow- tablecloths and pictures often stacked in the corridor along with his plants.” or placed between them. And, of ering, concrete blocks. To me, they’ve “I just plant something with my long brought to mind elderly residents course, there’s the ever-present water neighbor once in a while,” I heard bottle, utilized by neighbors to act as and long, stretching corridors in-filled another time, “because everyone feels an impromptu watering can. Simulwith lush greenery and plant-life. On better when they look at something taneously, the corridors blur the line the walls, hand-written signs warn green.” And yes, everyone does feel people about keeping anything in these between public and private space: they better when looking at something are an additional reality; a makeshift hallways, but it’s a rule seemingly green. In concrete blocks as well… Or waived in the case of plants: here, they garden; an extension of home. maybe especially there. >>>

TOWERING GREEN

Joanna Szpak Ostachowska is a photographer, journalist and educational skills trainer. “What interests me the most, in reality and photography, is the ordinary and everyday. I’m not looking for big topics,” she says, “instead I go off-road to find things that exist somewhere on the other side. Discovering microworlds is what I enjoy.”

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

Interview

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

For more information see: Website: joannawkolorze.pl Instagram: @joanna_szpak_ostachowska

warsawinsider.pl

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Interview

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

For more information see: Website: joannawkolorze.pl Instagram: @joanna_szpak_ostachowska

warsawinsider.pl

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GREEN BELLS

ul. Grzybowska 16/22, fb.com/greenbells Equally inspired by Asia as the Victorian terrariums of botanist Dr. Nathaniel Bagshaw-Ward, Green Bells present miniature eco-worlds kept perfectly preserved inside ornamental glass: an ideal statement piece for house and home, your very own ‘forest in a jar’ will set you back from zł. 120 upwards. With many requiring just a cursory splash of mist spray, they’re the ideal solution for the busy, modern buyer.

Join all the cool kids this summer by giving your home a splash of something green...

PLANTARIUM

ul. Puławska 38, plantarium.pl Concentrating on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Ciszek has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents and hardto-find plants that are uncommon to Poland.

Impressive in scope and outlook, your home won’t ever feel the same.

PHOTOGRAPHS ON SPREAD TOP TWO KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM TWO PRESS MATERIAL

GO GREEN!

UASHMAMA

ul. Leszczyńska 12, uashmama.com.pl Pimp up your plant pot with a trip to Uashmama, a cool concept store specializing in bits and pieces made from washable paper: founded in Italy, the brand’s offer includes bags, holdalls and… super funky covers in which to hide unsightly pots.

Lend an industrial edge to your apartment whilst emphasizing the natural beauty of your plant...

GROW RAW

growraw.pl Got something pretty and prickly? Grow Raw specialize in handcrafted concrete and graphite pots that accentuate a succulent’s beauty. Ranging in size from XS to XL, these eye-catching vessels lend an industrial edge to your apartment or office whilst emphasizing the natural beauty of your plant.

warsawinsider.pl

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ANNIVERSARY WARSAW UPRISING

WARSAW UPRISING: 1944

August 1st marks the 74th anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising, a battle that would come to define the spirit and soul of the capital of Poland…

T

ransformed, in the words of historian Norman Davies, into a “lawless laboratory of Nazi racial ideology,” wartime Poland was a dark place to be – but Warsaw darker still. Viewed as a melting pot of decadence, a hotbed of dissent, a cradle of European Jewry and a symbol of Polish independence, no other city aroused as much disdain from the Nazis. From the very outset, the occupation

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

set a new benchmark in tyranny with Polish freedom brutally suppressed. “If I had to put up a poster for every seven Poles shot,” rued Hans Frank, the Governor of the General Government, “the forests of Poland would not be sufficient to manufacture the paper.”

Denied the most basic rights, the Poles responded by forming Europe’s largest underground movement.

Commonly believed to number around 400,000 members, the Home Army (Armii Krajowej) was the largest of these illicit organizations. Taking part in numerous acts of sabotage, this clandestine military movement hit global headlines when, on August 1st, 1944, they launched their biggest operation to date: the Warsaw Uprising.

Aiming to liberate the town in time for the imminent Soviet arrival, their cause was boosted by promises of Allied aid as well as the knowledge that German units had already began withdrawing from the city. Incensed by this act of Polish insolence, the Nazis reacted with savage fury and what the Poles had hoped would be a swift campaign descended into a 63-day bloodbath that claimed 250,000 lives.

Seemingly abandoned by their allies, and with all hope exhausted, Warsaw’s eventual capitulation was met with orders for the population to be exiled and the city leveled. By the time the Red Army rolled in on January 17, 1945, the city lay under 20 million cubic meters of rubble with total destruction measured at 84%. Nothing would ever be the same again…

PHOTOGRAPH FROM LEFT PRESS MATERIAL RISING MUSEUM, SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA

Warsaw in flames: what the Poles had hoped would be a swift campaign descended into a 63-day bloodbath.

Left: The Uprising Monument on Pl. Krasińskich; Prudential Tower, 2018.

MONUMENTS OF THE RISING

Still sometimes mistaken for the equally heroic 1943 Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, recognition for the ’44 insurgency has felt a long time coming. However, foreign ignorance can, in many ways, be excused.

In the period that followed the war Poland’s puppet government viewed participants as ‘anti Communist adventurers’ with veterans often facing persecution, imprisonment and in some cases death. For decades, the rebellion was simply deleted from history: with even the Polish government keeping a lid on the story, it was no surprise that those of us abroad remained none the wiser.

The first sign of change came in 1983, when the scouts funded The Little Insurgent memorial on the edge of Old Town: now established as one of the nation’s best loved monuments, it commemorates a 13-year-old messenger boy who was shot close by.

Then, six years later, another project was finalized, the Warsaw Uprising Monument on Krasińskich. Depicting fighters slipping in and out of the sewer network, it’s one of the major points of national commemoration. Since the death of communism numerous other monuments have sprung up, with key ones including the official symbol of the Uprising (see p. 112) atop of a 141-meter artificial hill built from the rubble of the city. Just as poignant, is the monument on Pl. Solidarności that remembers the 50,000 civilians of Wola that were massacred in the space of a few days.

BUILDINGS OF THE RISING

In material terms, the cost of the Uprising is almost impossible to quantify: that hasn’t stopped people trying. A 2005 estimate put the damage at $54.6 billion: given the scale of carnage, it’s astonishing to think so many physical reminders have survived.

Three in particular stand out in their relevance to the battle. Classified as the tallest building in the Russian Empire when it was unveiled in 1910, the PASTa building on Zielna 37 served as a telephone exchange and was the scene of vicious hand-to-hand fighting.

When the defending Germans surrendered in the third week of the siege, it was celebrated as one of the AK’s big triumphs. Maintaining its links to the Uprising, today it houses the Veterans Association.

Next, the Prudential Tower (Powstańców Warszawy 9). Seized on the first day, the effect of seeing a Polish flag fluttering from what was by then the city’s highest building was crucial for morale.

Despite being pounded by over 1,000 shells, control of it wasn’t relinquished till the final surrender.

Nowadays, work is under way to revive this art deco wonder as a 5-star hotel. Lesser known, the former boiler house on Suzina 8 is where the first shots of the battle were actually fired. Pre-empting the order to launch the Uprising at 5 p.m., a group of young insurgents inadverently opened hostilities when they ran into a German unit while on their way to assume their position. >>> warsawinsider.pl

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ANNIVERSARY WARSAW UPRISING

Left: Mural on Płocka 41; the original Mermaid monument modeled on Krystyna Krahelska.

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PEOPLE OF THE UPRISING

“War’s brings out the worst and the best in people,” said Captain Dick Winters of Band of Brothers fame, “they do not make men great, but they do bring out the greatness in good men.” Though witness to some of the most monstrous acts imaginable, the Uprising produced a long line of accidental heroes and everyday martyrs. From the locals, few stories are more poignant than that of Krystyna Krahelska, a 23-year-old poet on whom the mermaid statue

by Metro Centrum Kopernika was modeled. Having volunteered to serve as a nurse, she was shot on the first day and later died of her wounds.

Although the ranks of the AK were naturally dominated by Poles, a number of foreigners also partook in the fighting. Two Germans are known to have switched sides, while other unlikely insurgents included a fedora-wearing Nigerian-born jazz musician called August Agbola O’Browne. Said to have worked in the communications department, he survived the war and subsequently resumed his career playing in the clubs of Warsaw before emigrating to Britain in 1958. And speaking of Britain, think also of Birmingham-born John Ward. Shot down over France in 1940, the officer was taken into captivity close to Leszno before escaping and joining up with the AK. Awarded Poland’s Cross of Valor, he filed over 100 battlefield reports for The Times and became a key liaison between Polish forces and the British government.

PHOTOGRAPH FROM LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA, WIKICOMMONS (ADRIAN GRYCUK), MARCIN DZIEDZIC

MURALS OF THE UPRISING

Once sad and stony silent, the walls of Warsaw have found their voice to express the feelings of the wider community through the medium of large format street art. Of the persistent themes, the Warsaw Uprising is probably the most recurrent.

Oscillating in merit from basic paint jobs to stunning works of art, they’re an everyday reminder as to the depth of feeling that the battle still stirs.

Among the more famous, head to the Polonia stadium to view a black and white mural running the length of a 250-meter wall. Revealed last year, it’s literally the only Polonia-related work that the followers of Legia Warszawa refrain from vandalizing.

The location, incidentally, is not accidental: looking to forge a link between the Old Town and Żoliborz, the stadium was the scene of fierce fighting.

Within walking distance, the primary school on Lewartowskiego 2 carries an exterior illustration of a helmet wearing messenger boy, his back against the ruins of the city. Sticking to the theme of kids, the mural at ul. Wilanowska 5 is especially powerful with its depiction of iconic photographs of Uprising children. From the recent editions, the 180 sq/m mural at Płocka 41 has become a city favorite, and marks one of the many sites where the Wola Massacre unfolded. And of course, don’t miss the works that clad the interior garden wall of the Rising Museum.

Marcin Dziedzic’s images seamlessly merge the Warsaw of then and now.

SIGHTS OF THE UPRISING

Rated by pretty much everyone as the capital’s No. 1 museum, the Warsaw Rising Museum (ul.

Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl) leaves no stone unturned in its mission to explain the story of the struggle.

Though the crowds and sheer scale of it all can make navigation tricky, it’s on the finish line with the Palace of Culture and the Old Town as part of Warsaw’s trinity of must-see sights. Points of interest are many and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions soldiers faced. The devil is in the detail though, and it’s the smaller curios that really make an impact: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital.

For more on the city’s destruction (and phoenix-like revival) don’t forget a visit to the sadly under-visited Heritage Interpretation Center (ul.

Brzozowa 11-13), while couch potatoes should click to teraz44.pl to view the seamlessly merged ‘then and now’ images of Marcin Dziedzic: they’re staggering.

COMMEMORATING THE UPRISING

If the Uprising became a forgotten footnote during communism, the years since have seen that corrected to the point that it’s become the city’s fixation – and rightly so. Throughout the day, August 1st will witness a number of official ceremonies with events kicking-off in earnest at 9 a.m. with the laying of wreaths at the monument to Colonel Antoni Chruściel (commander of the Warsaw district) on Filtrowa 68. More official business will be conducted from 4 p.m. at Powązki’s military cemetery, though for the everyman all eyes will fall on 5 p.m. It’s then that Warsaw will grind to a universal standstill to remember W-Hour, the time that the Uprising officially began. It’s a deeply emotive occasion, and one captured beautifully by the 2012 YouTube video titled There Is A City. Profoundly moving, it’s a fleeting moment during which one feels a deeper understanding of the town we call home. In recent times, Rondo Dmowskiego has become a popular gathering point for flare-wielding patriots, whilst Pl. Zamkowy has found favor with a more liberal audience. You won’t regret heading to either. Later in the evening, join thousands of others at Pl. Piłsudskiego at 8 p.m. to sing hymns banned during the occupation. Marked by its atmosphere of pride and defiance, it’s one of the year’s cultural highlights: don’t worry about not knowing the words, song sheets abound. For further info on scheduled events, visit: 1944.pl warsawinsider.pl

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CITY ŁAZIENKI PARK & PALACE

The Art Of The Matter More than just the green lungs of Warsaw, Łazienki is a treasure trove of fine art and sculpture from days of old…

BY STUART DOWELL

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

I

f often feels like Warsaw is a city with chip on its shoulder, always apologising for itself. Like a former stage queen drowning her sorrows, she complains: “I used to be beautiful you know, I’ve just never been the same since Hitler and Stalin.” But what about the lovely Old Town?

“Ooh, don’t tell anyone,” she winks, “but it’s all plastic surgery, none of it is real.” Unfair perhaps, but understandable. As she orders another drink a silver-haired jogger runs past, all original parts and not a hair out of place. It’s Łazienki Park! Relatively unscathed from the war and the equal of any city park in Europe, as tourist attractions go this one is weapons-grade.

The history of Łazienki goes back as far as the 12th and 13th centuries when the area was used as a working garden around the stronghold of Jazdów before it was destroyed by marauding Lithuanians in 1262 and again in 1282. The Mazovian Dukes had had enough and upped sticks, finding a more defendable spot on the high ground in the village of Stara Warszawa. In 1548, Queen Bona Sforza established a permanent residence there, and later, in 1624, Zygmunt III Waza, the one from the column on Castle Square, started building Ujazdowski Castle nearby. In the late 17th century, Grand Crown Marshal Stanisław Lubomirski bought the estate and on the spot where the Palace on the Isle now stands added a bath house to relax in, hence the name Łazienki. In 1764, the last king of Poland, Stanisław August Poniatowski, bought the entire plot and the Łazienki that we know today, perhaps the greatest symbol of the Polish Enlightenment of the late 18th century, is the result of his passion and vision.

Stepping away from the cars thundering past from all sides at Na Rodrożu and entering the park from the north isn’t unlike easing into a soothing bath.

Maples, poplars and willows welcome you with an inviting rustle, while red squirrels divert the eye as they arrow up a trunk or shuffle cheekily along a branch.

More pleasures await when you enter the modernist garden with the Chopin monument, which sits in front of a curtain of red oaks looking onto aisles lined with snowberry bushes. A walk down the embankment and along the Royal Promenade past the Old Orangery towards the Palace on the Isle often finishes with an ice-cream from the True Madame Café and enjoyment of the breath-taking scenery.

Nothing wrong with that of course, but to do so ignores what makes the park so special. Stanisław August was enthusiastic about the arts and believed

Stepping away from the cars thundering past from all sides at Na Rodrożu and entering the park from the north isn’t unlike easing into a soothing bath in their role in creating an enlightened and progressive country. To this end, he put together impressive art collections and created buildings with beautiful interiors to display them in, which to a large extent have survived for us to enjoy today. Those who worked on the King’s project were the big hitters of the time: the architects Dominik Merlini and Jan Chrystian Kammsetzer, the artists Jan Bogumił Plersch and Marcello Bacciarelli and the sculptors André Lebrun and Franz Pinck. Even the famed Tylmen Van Gameren got a look-in as he built the original bath house for Stanisław Lubomirski, which is still incorporated at the core of the Palace on the Isle, as well as the prodigious Jakub Kubicki, who in the 1820s redesigned the Belweder Palace and built the Temple of the Sybil and the Egyptian Temple for the Russia’s Tsar Alexander I (who acquired the complex in 1817).

This is proper premier league stuff, the equivalent of Crujff, Baggio, Zidane and Ronaldo all turning out for the nearby Legia Warszawa football team.

Because Polish kings were elected, Stanisław August didn’t inherit much art from his predecessors, although there were a few gloomy canvases kicking around the basement at Ujazdowski from the time of Zygmunt III. It meant that he had to start from scratch, so with his long-serving court artist Bacciarelli he slowly collected paintings, sculptures, furniture, prints and other items that were the best that they could find and afford. There is little in Warsaw to match the enjoyment of strolling through Łazienki’s achingly beautiful interiors and stumbling across a Rembrandt, a de Meer or a van Dyck, or perhaps a portrait of Francis Bacon, Jean Jacques Rousseau or William Shakespeare. The spacious and well-lit Old Orangery is home to the best sculpture collection in Poland with copies of ancient sculptures made by leading artists from Rome and Venice from the late 18th century. The walled terrace in front features a fascinating group of eight busts representing some of the less bloody Roman emperors chiselled by Franz Pinck.

Muses, Greco-Roman gods and characters from mythology as well as figures depicting allegories, virtues and the four seasons cast their gaze from shady bowers, roofs, plinths, walls and ceilings. This is late 18th century propaganda shouting that Stanisław August was a strong yet enlightened ruler. On sunny August afternoons, it’s hard to drag yourself indoors away from the romantic gardens, but your effort will be rewarded and your soul nourished by the collections of King Staś. warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL LAKES

K A N I A LO D G E

THE LAKE ESCAPE A watery staycation doesn’t have to mean following the herd to the Baltic.

This summer, chill down and dip in at one of Poland’s lake retreats…

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M ŁY N K L E KO T K I

KANIA LODGE

Originally conceived as a little retirement project by a former New Zealand war correspondent, Kania Lodge has been an open secret among expats for quite some time.

Located up north amid the lush, rolling scenery of the unspoiled Kashubian hills, it offers a casual, boutique style and lake views from all 15 rooms. By day, launch a boat from the private jetty to enjoy the tranquil waters to the max, and by night, well, strap on your drinking boots: not only do they boast over 250 wines to choose from, but also their own vineyard and a tasting room with fireplace. There’s vodka, as well: widely acclaimed as the best vodka in the world, the elite Vestal brand is a side-arm of the business.

Sytna Góra, kanialodge.com.pl Doubles from zł. 360

MŁYN KLEKOTKI

Centered around a 17th century

water mill, Klekotki has a rambling rustic style with plenty of creaking woods, handwoven rugs and other bits and pieces made by local carpenters and blacksmiths. If you’ve got hanky panky in mind, book room No. 16, a quirky bolt hole with a canopied wrought iron bed.

Further perks include an eco-certified farm supplying the kitchen and a spa housed inside an old, wooden barn – visit for traditional Japanese-style treatments. Mostly though, you’ll want to explore. Set in 120 hectares of private land, snag a picnic hamper and head into the beech forests to mingle with badgers and deer, or squeeze into a kayak to paddle about the placid, inky waters: the slow lane just doesn’t get any slower.

Godkowo, klekotki.com.pl Doubles from zł. 270

GLENDORIA

You’ve heard of glamping, right?

Fusing the raw experience of

head into the beech forests to mingle with badgers and deer, or squeeze into a kayak to paddle about the placid, inky waters camping with glam creature comforts, it’s an accessible way for city slickers to enjoy the natural world without ever getting icky.

Kate Moss does it. Now, the Poles are doing it as well. Dubbing themselves a ‘funky village for urban people’, Glendoria offers stays in either an old farmhouse that’s all wobbly antiques and frayed furnishings or tented rooms with century-old floorboards and woodburning stoves – at night, it’s just you and your private choir of croaking frogs. If you’re a people person, hang around the atmospheric communal barn, >>> warsawinsider.pl

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TRAVEL LAKES

NARVIL

or otherwise isolate yourself from civilization by exploring the grounds: positioned in 50 hectares of untamed meadows, quiet reading spots abound, as do observation towers to spy on herons, storks, cranes and hawks. In fact, such is the feeling of privacy you’ll easily get away with a skinny dip in their clearwater lake.

Ględy, glendoria.pl Tents from zł. 270

MASURIA ARTE

Hemmed in by immaculate lawns and gently rippling lakes, Masuria Arte bring a refined sense of luxury to the lakeside experience.

Looking like the set of a Hilfiger advert, the pristine white-on-white colors of this delicious-looking manor lend a blissful purity that realigns the soul, while accommodation is swank but engaging with earthy, little touches that add a ‘sense of place’. Ranging from

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cutesy attic apartments to full-on 80 sq/m suites with private garden terraces, the well-appointed lodgings are an essay in thoughtful elegance. Despite the silence and the solitude, boredom refuses to strike: after a dip in the indoor infinity pool, head to the spa to enjoy treatments built around elite cosmetic brands such as Valmont.

Sundown, meanwhile, is all about wine under spectacular candy floss skies.

Stacza, masuriaarte.pl Doubles from zł. 950

Despite its overwhelming size, wide spaces and hightech look, it’s a place that works in harmony with its wooded surrounds

their head chef to the Raffles Europesjski, but that alone shows the caliber of talent they’ve got coming through the kitchen. Despite its overwhelming size (it doubles as a fully-fledged conference center as well), wide spaces and high-tech NARVIL look, it’s a place that works in harTo picture the Narvil you’d do well mony with its wooded surrounds. to imagine a spaceship touching Positioned close to the banks down in a forest clearing. Perched of the Narew River, and a short just 40 clicks north of Warsaw, journey from Lake Zegrzyński, it’s this futuristic development has the closest you’ll get to a recombecome a favorite weekend retreat mended water-based break close on account of its well-regarded spa to the capital. and wellness zone and acclaimed Serock, hotelnarvil.pl restaurant – granted, they’ve lost Doubles from zł. 399

GLENDORIA

MASURIA ARTE

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H Par ig tn hl e ig r ht s

Warsaw From The River!

The most modern facility on the Wisła – iBarka – invites you for an unforgettable cruise!

BUILT IN 2016, our small, glazed ship is fully-

equipped with multimedia equipment, air-conditioning, two bathrooms as well as a terrace and rooftop deck. The vessel is powered by photovoltaic panels and a pair of Yamaha 60 KM motors. iBarka is the ideal place for exhibitions, workshops, meetings, conferences and other special events.

Furthermore, neither have we forgotten about the lighter side of life: join us on the roof for our River Beat fitness classes and meditation sessions. Currently, visitors can view our Ships of the Warsaw

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Wisła exhibition which is accompanied by discussions concerning the history of inland navigation.

Most of all, though, it’s our guided tours and sunset cruises that people love the most: and you will as well. Travelling between Most Gdański and Most Poniatowskiego (or, at sunset, between Most Gdański and Siekierkowski) there’s simply no better way to enjoy the city! iBarka tel. 570 321 123, kontakt@infobarka.pl, www.infobarka.pl

“Sample the exemplary tastes of China in the very heart of Warsaw”

- YAJIA LIN

We invite you to enjoy a splendid culinary journey through China!

Our professional team will create the perfect event for you – we were born to organize!

- communion meals - wedding parties - company meetings - conferences & workshops - events

Ul. Pańska 85 For Reservations tel. 512 671 756 22 253 30 30 panska85.com

H Par ig tn hl e ig r ht s

Horses For Courses

Get ready for Poland’s first ever A-classified horse event!

T

he 5th edition of the Al Khalediah European Arabian Horse Festival (AKEAHF) will take place between August 17th and 19th at the Al Khalediah Stud in Nowe Wrońska near Płońsk, with a hundred horses competing in a highly ranked show, and also at Warsaw’s Służewiec Racetrack where an international A-category race will be held for the first time ever.

The year 2018 marks the 10th anniversary since the Al Khalediah Stables (Saudi Arabia) sent their first horses to Poland to establish a branch of their breeding. In 2014 the first edition of the AKEAHF was organized and since then it has rapidly gained popularity among both breeders and owners of Arabian horses in Poland and abroad. Now, the event has become the first A-classified show in Poland as ranked by the European Conference of Arabian Horse Organizations (ECAHO).

“It goes without saying, the organization of Poland’s first A-classified show is a breakthrough

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event,” says Hubert Kulesza, the general manager of both the Al Khalediah Stud Poland and the festival itself. “It is a matter of pride for me not just because I am employed by the company that organizes this event, but because, as a Pole, a show of this rank is arriving to Poland on the hundredth anniversary of our nation’s independence. I believe that these two things combined go a considerable way in ennobling the merits of Polish breeding and its achievements abroad.”

The festival is known in the Arabian horse community for its flawless organization and generous prizes (that include luxury cars and prize money), and already promises to be one of the most eagerly anticipated social gatherings of the year.

Al Khalediah European Arabian Horse Festival 2018 August 17-19 Al Khalediah Stud, Nowe Wrońska 36A (Załuski) Tor Służewiec, ul. Puławska 266 (Warsaw)

3.1 Philip Lim — Attico — Rodarte — Paul Andrew — Justine Clenquet — Nina Kastens ­Jonathan Simkhai — D’ESTREE — ­ RIXO London

a unique shopping experience

www.lui-store.com Mokotowska 26 Warsaw

Enjoy the hospitality and tastes of the Bosphorus in Poland’s most authentic Turkish restaurant Pl. Konstytucji 2, tel. 883 444 441, anatolia.pl

EAT!

FULL HOUSE

This nationwide chainlet have racked up the fans by doing things right and keeping it simple: that means, at least at their Warsaw branch, a casual neo-hipster style involving steel Tolix chairs, dangling bulbs and a cartoonish motif of a coiled, little shrimp: a look that shouts young, fun and just right for summer. Dressed and spruced in a variety of ways, find affordable shrimp dishes involving red curry and coconut milk; steamy, aromatic pho; and tempura & chips with mango sauce. Do fireworks appear? Nah, course not, but what Shrimp House is, is solid, straightforward and completely sincere: pretty good qualities for a lunch on the run.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Shrimp House ul. Tamka 45A, shrimp-house.pl

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Eat! Review

THE KING IS DEAD, LONG LIVE THE BARON! Warsaw’s favorite culinary outlaw returns with a vengeance…

THE CHEF

Looks who’s back! Regarded as Poland’s most maverick chef, Aleksander Baron returns to the trenches having traded in the hipster era confines of Solec 44 for Zoni, the banner restaurant of the Koneser complex.

Famed for his devotion to local ingredients and little-known techniques, few push boundaries with quite the same zeal as this rebel chef (his

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checkered past involves, among other misadventures, being booted out of art school!). His enthusiasm for nose-to-tail cooking, old baroque recipes and forgotten fermentation processes say much for his manic dedication to his natural calling.

THE PLACE

A complete escape from the grungy commie bunker in which Baron

earned his name, the first thought that comes to mind is something along the lines of: OMFG. Housed in a former vodka distillery, everything about Zoni screams of style. Worth exploring, a prowl of the immense interior reveals cast iron kilns, flooring made from recovered vodka barrels and numerous post-industrial pieces that have been lovingly restored.

That the interior is so striking is good

Zoni Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl (Without drinks, or premium dishes such as steak, factor in approx. zł. 130 per head)

Housed in a former vodka distillery, everything about Zoni screams of style

news indeed: with building work still clanging around the wider area, al fresco dining is only recommended outside of normal hours of construction.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

THE FOOD

With knives and forks located (they’re in a slidey drawer underneath the table), we smash head on into starters. Of these, there’s a carefully assembled scattering of fermented vegetables, with the presence of a two-year-old honey fermented cabbage stump taken as an early sign of the kitchen’s intent.

Even more triumphant, a tomato assiette with a smoked tomato at

its center and exciting diversions such as a granita with lovage. In seconds, it’s all transformed into a pinkish pond of mushy tomatoey tastes: complex in both texture and temperature, it’s a poster child for gooey loveliness.

Mains are a reminder that The Baron loves meat – every single bit.

For me there’s wild boar, it’s tongue and cheeks as soft and tender as an angel’s bottom. But the show stealer, that’s a T-bone that lands on the table with much the same thud as a stray artillery round: the world shakes and children cower. As the dust settles, the photographer tears into it like a half-starved beast

that’s been given one minute to eat.

Trying some myself, I see why. Aged in such a way as to allow aspergillus mushrooms to grow into the meat, it’s a glorious piece of cooking that makes the heart roar. Looking mean and gnarly, just as they should, everything about the side of roasted Jerusalem artichokes speaks of the earthy goodness of Mother Nature.

But we haven’t finished. In the name of research, dessert must be had.

When it comes to this, my requirements of a pudding are infantile at best: I don’t do grown-up desserts, instead I favor things that are cold and sticky and extra sweet. So yeah, the dessert list isn’t really something that’d usually appeal. But come on, inquisitiveness gets the better of me, so for this reason I plump for a calf brain mousse the incorporates vanilla, brown butter and caramel. Served as a chilled sphere, it’s as curious and intriguing as it is delicate and light – over careful and considered bites I find myself approving.

THE VERDICT

Though Baron’s outlook remains much the same, it’s without doubt a new league he’s entered: the big time. And guess what, he’s aced it.

Though still early days in the grand scheme of things, it’s going to take an extraordinary turn of events to see Zoni outgunned as the year’s best launch. Yes, take that as a recommendation. (AW) warsawinsider.pl

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Eat! Reviews

SECOND TO NAAN

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

An all-conquering start by Warsaw’s latest Indian…

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Guru ul. Widok 8

h

aggard old veteran that I am, there’s a few things I miss about the Warsaw of old. Rumors, for one. They used to spread like wildfire, and they’d reach their peak when the word turned to curry: at least, they did if you were the holder of a passport from Britain. Now though, it all feels a little like Groundhog Day: a new Indian restaurant just means a tired repeat of everything that’s come before – the same menus, the same décor, the same ingredients and even the same sodding staff. Same, same, all the bloody same.

So, it was in this misanthropic mood I greeted the news of the opening of Guru. “Whoopee,” thought I, “more butter chicken served in pokey surrounds.” But no so fast. Every now and again a new star is born, and in the twinkly shape of Guru that’s precisely what’s happened. Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, it’s joined the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. Looking slick, modern and easy-on-the-eye, there’s a warm, soothing ambiance that feels right for all nights: “I’d even take the wife here,” notes the Insider’s partner in a threatening voice.

Initial positivity aside, the arrival of the menu is greeted with a serious look that says ‘let business commence’. Together, we dissect it with the precision of scientists: true, much of it is familiar (butter chicken – checkity check), but there’s also enough to suggest a departure from the norm. From the beginning, for instance, it announces the dishes to be a union of Indian spices and local, seasonal ingredients. Now for the lion’s share of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, going local means shopping at the nearest branch of Carrefour Express. Here, it’s something else entirely, a point that’s affirmed when our waitress for the evening starts talking about ‘organic this’ and ‘farmyard that’. In short, it’s a kitchen that cares.

This isn’t token lip service, either: with starters, the attention to the ingredients comes to the fore. The samosa, for example, contains New Zealand lamb of mind-boggling taste. From the openers, however, it’s the chili chicken fry that really stands out. Sauteed in a red chili sauce, it’s a dish that snaps and crackles with tongue pleasing heat. Over a cigarette break, we discuss the merits of what we have tasted. “Bloody hell,” is the first sentence that comes out, “I wasn’t expecting that.”

Heading back in for the mains, it’s with a surging confidence that we’ll see similar success. And yes, we do. Sidestepping some of the more unfamiliar dishes (e.g. ‘Bhurta’, something described on the menu as a Punjabi-style baba ghanoush), both of us have opted for the chicken Madras: a standard litmus test that any legit Indian should pass. This it does: mine, ordered extra, kill-me-quick hot, is a burning tribute to the pleasure of spice – a belt of heat rises inside, before breaking out in a fine film of sweat that clings to my body. It’s everything I want and a little bit more. “The best,” pants my partner, “that I’ve had for some years.” Mopping up the debris with a basket of naans, it’s with the bewildered, happy look of people that have stepped off some bonkers helter skelter.

And that, pretty much, sums it all up. The dishes, you’ve seen most of them before, it’s just that at Guru they reach new levels that set a benchmark of sorts. Backed up by a limited series of top-notch Indian-themed cocktails (mango pulp Mojitos and a Dark & Stormy with a ginger twist), as well as staff that all but scoop the food into your mouth, there’s a good reason why some are already pegging it as the best Indian restaurant that Warsaw’s ever seen. If they maintain these standards, and there’s no reason they shouldn’t, then we’ll join that club. (AW)

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EAT! Listings By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 42 bakeries 42 balkan 42 british 44 comfort food 44 chinese 44 desserts 44 fine dining 45 french 47 georgian 47 greek & turkish 47 indian 48 indonesian 49 international 50 italian 54 japanese & sushi 55 jewish 56 korean 56 ice cream 57 latin & spanish 58 mexican 59 middle eastern 60 polish 61 scandinavian 67 seafood 68 specialty food shops 68 steak houses 69 street food 61 thai 70 ukrainian 71 vegan & wholefood 71 vietnamese 72

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american Champions Sports Bar While the concept and style look dated, there’s no faulting the attention to detail – with TVs positioned all over the place you won’t miss a kick. The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always onpoint, the staff are pro, while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 630 5119, champions.pl Hard Rock Café Instantly recognizable by the giant neon guitar outside, Hard Rock has a pierced staff of skater boys and rock girls and a menu that is, if nothing else, completely reliable. Peruse rock’n’roll swag that includes Joplin’s blouse, Prince’s guitar and Shakira’s pants. (C4) ul. Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), tel. 22 222 0700, hardrockcafe.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

The work of an American / Polish husband and wife, Koko & Roy feels fun, innovative and pleasingly casual – a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Much like visiting friends, alcohol too also plays its part: in this case, generous cocktails made to NYC specifications.

Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own

Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39 Café Vincent Queues build quickly as locals line up to buy baguettes, cinnamon rolls, lemon croissants and beautiful pains au chocolat. But people don’t just head in then out, a small wine list and brilliant people spying opportunities cause many to hang around. (D3) ul. Nowy Świat 64 Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. (D6) Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela), bistrocharlotte.com Paul Specializing in pastries, baguettes and other baked goods, this French chain have rapidly entrenched themselves in the capital following their debut last year.

Various locations, boulangeries-paul.com Rozbrat 20 Bakery & Wine Corner Best known for fathering Butchery & Wine, Daniel Pawełek makes his mark on Powiśle with the launch of Rozbrat 20, a high-end bakery that’s worthy of the rave reviews. Breakfast here is among the best you’ll find in Warsaw. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Ba Adriatico As a starter, then the grilled peppers stuffed with creamy, regional cheese are irresistible. But then so too the octopus salad. Mains are a victory of simplicity, with dishes like skewered minced beef served with a bitey sauce and a soft, pillowy Lepinja bread. Yet ignore Thursday seafood night at your peril. Croatian-run, this neighborhood spot has an unassuming air that belies the general quality. (B2)

THE FIRST AND MOST AUTHENTIC TURKISH RESTAURANT IN WARSAW...

COME AND ENJOY THE TRUE TASTE OF TURKEY! EAT WELL, FEEL WELL! OUR MENU ALSO HAS PLENTY OF MEDITERRANEAN CHOICES MAHO AL.KRAKOWSKA 240/242 WWW.FACEBOOK.COM/MAHOPL TEL 22 609 15 48

EAT! Listings Al. Jana Pawła II 50/52, ba-adriatico.pl Banja Luka Lots of clunky timber and imported ceramics set the scene at this eatery, a Balkan stalwart that’s known for its economical pricing structure and bulky portions. Grilled meats are prominent and the food largely reliable. (E8) ul.

Szkolna 2/4, tel. 22 828 1060, banjaluka.pl

british Ę Rybę A couple of places have tried to emulate the taste of the British seaside, but this is the de facto codfather. Here’s a spot where the chips are golden, the fish fresh and the batter crisp and light. Now also serving British breakfast, albeit at a time when most normal people will have already eaten. (E4) Al. Jana Pawła II 18, erybe.pl

comfort food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their American-style speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9. tel. 512 157 567, barnburger.pl Beef’N’Roll If the wheels have fallen off the burger craze then no-one told Beef’N’Roll.

Originating as a food truck, their success has been such that a fixed venue was required. Everything about the food and drink suggests quality is the main consideration. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 36, tel.

531 707 070, beefnroll.pl Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that

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still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Kura Buffalo Wings Looking to revise and rehabilitate the reputation of fried chicken, this cult spot has cool staff, a busy buzz and a tasty selection of strips, wings and homemade sauces: look on it as KFC for the millenial generation. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, fb.com/ restauracjakura Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life. The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb. (D7) ul. Polna 22 Pogromcy Meatów Yearn no more for the elusive flavor of the backyard BBQ. Specializing in grilled meat, find exactly just that loaded into artisan buns alongside locally grown greens. The sense of homespun quality makes this the kind of comfort food that Warsaw has been missing for years. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, tel. 505 703 508 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw:

there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice.

The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar To Tu Dumpling Bar A shabby looking shack cabin, To Tu offer what are seriously considered some of the best – if not the best – dim sum in town. Magic-ked up by a Manchurian exile, the experience isn’t unlike being in a sweaty back street haunt in Asia. And that’s a good thing! ul. Niekłańska 33, chinskapierogarnia.pl

desserts Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16

EAT! Listings Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A

Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end. It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels.

(D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl

menu draws spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy. Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber Room the ideal address for VIP expense account meetings.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, tel. 22 523 6664, amberroom.pl

Lukullus Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere. Oh, and desserts.

Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times. lukullus.pl

Warszawski Lukier The home of hardcore food porn. Look for their signature freak shakes: towering treats cascading with calories and color.

Their sister op on Żurawia has more of the same… and ice cream! (E5) ul. Hoża 5/7

Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important. Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list (gastronomic or not), there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. (E6) ul. Agrykola 1, tel. 22 628 5747, atelieramaro.pl

MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8

fine dining Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop: devised

by Robert Skubisz, the contemporary

The Pink Lobster is enthusiastically visited by connoisseurs of the good things in life: find top range produce given the fine dining treatment courtesy of chef and co-owner Jarek Walczyk (President of the Chef’s Club Foundation and the brand ambassador for 92, ZT Kruszwica, and Bursztyn cheese).

UL. ŻURAWIA 6/12, PINKLOBSTER.PL MOB: +48 572 672 772 RESERVATIONS: KONTAKT@PINKLOBSTER.PL

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EAT! Listings Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Chłodna 15 by Wilamowski Gone are the Alice in Wonderland decorations of the previous tenant, La Maison, replaced instead by a muted charcoal look that’s reassuringly refined – for the time you’re here, you forget you’re on the ground floor of a 70s tower block.

Aiding the amnesia is the classic French cooking of Arkadiusz Wilamowski: small and mercurial in its content, the dailychanging menu is a work of preposterous detail – no sauce takes less than a day to make. So the rumors go, Michelin are watching closely. (B3) ul. Chłodna 15 Do Bo Do Invoking the spirit of Eugeniusz Bodo – an interwar screen legend who once owned an arty café at this very address – Warsaw’s latest fine dining spot throws the spotlight on the copious talents of Marek Kropielnicki. His menu is a marriage of

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local produce, outrageous ideas and precise technique, though so far appears to have divided the city’s food critics.

Europejski Grill Straight off the bat you know they mean business. Having headhunted Benat Alonso (Executive Chef) and Witek Iwański (Head Chef, and the winner of the Insider’s very own ‘One To Watch’ award in 2017), the flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of Poland’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior is matched by a menu that features Antonius caviar, beef sirloin aged for 70-days, and a couple of ‘revisited classics’ from the Europejski’s past: among them, veal schnitzel a la Holstein. Full review next issue: and yep, we can’t wait to get there.

(D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw L’enfant Terrible Looking like he’s just swaggered in from a rock concert, the unconventional style of Michał Bryś goes beyond surface detail alone. Promising maximum excitement, his imaginative menu isn’t short on daring twists and rollercoaster highs.

Maverick in every sense of the word, this is a chef that pushes boundaries in a way few others would dare. Though the menu changes often, keep an eye on recurring classics such as ‘tomatoes, tomatoes, tomatoes’, a kickass course

that presents the humble tomato in about ten different forms! More informal than the other top bracket restaurants, the brainwashed loyalty of Enfant’s fans says much for it. (D8) ul. Sandomierska 13 (enter from Rejtana), tel. 22 119 5705, eterrible.pl N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl Nolita BEST WAWA 2017 “Fine Dining” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic

EAT! Listings tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t.

Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46, tel. 22 292 0424, nolita.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Salto Any Best of Warsaw list wouldn’t be complete without mentioning Salto. The baby of Martin Gimenez Castro, the chef’s South American influences shine on an a la carte menu that includes corvina ceviche with orange and spices and dry aged steaks worth crossing town for. Mind you, the real riches are on the tasting menu, a six-dish volley of riveting tastes.

The inventiveness peaks with elaborate desserts such as cream of roses, marinated lychee ice cream, coconut and beetroot paper. (D5) ul. Wilcza 73 (enter from Emilii Plater), tel. 22 584 8771, saltorestauracja.pl Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘noteby-note’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the WTF prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar.

(C2) ul. Bielańska 12, tel. 22 331 9697, sensesrestaurant.pl

Signature You feel a millionaire just being here: we’ve heard the interiors described as a ‘Monegasque state of mind’, and that’s not a bad way to surmise a décor that’s all about friezes and reliefs dated from the time this was the Soviet Embassy, lavish 1950s Oswald chairs, lighting by Serge Mouille and original Marilyn photos shot by the acclaimed Milton Greene.

Food-wise the restaurant makes a massive splash with a menu that’s clever, creative and pretty. Count on Signature’s seasonally changing desserts providing a happy ending. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 55 38755, signaturerestaurant.pl

french Brasserie Smak A moody, open-plan space overlooking the busy market action of Hala Gwardii, Brasserie is place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey hall. It’s given added impetus by artfully arranged seafood platters, meaty snails and stews that are heavy, robust and thick with goodness. Pl. Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii) L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters, or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chinkali Signposted by a Georgian-language shingle, there’s a real sense of pleasure about this place. More modern than your typical folksy ethnic outpost, Chinkali’s draw is indeed its chinkali: dough purses packed with meaty broth. There’s a genuine homemade quality to these slurpy bundles of joy, meaning that while they’re authentic, consistency can vary. And don’t

miss out on the red bean chachapuri washed down with a mouthwash-colored tarragon lemonade. (D4) ul. Zgoda 3 Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. (D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela), rioni.pl Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen. Note: closed Monday. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, tel.

22 629 0628, rusiko.pl

greek & turkish Anatolia Looking dark and moody, Anatolia adds a veneer of sophistication to the traditional Turkish dining experience; presentation, you can tell, is important, but so too is the general sense of replicating the standards of home. Meat finds itself treated with reverence, and that holds especially true when it comes to steak and lamb. Full review coming soon. Pl. Konstytucji 2, anatolia-waw.pl Maho Maho feels like it’s located at the end of the earth – but its distance deters no-one, least of all its army of hardcore followers. Why are they there? The answer is a Turkish grill that takes you right to the heart of this glorious cuisine.

Highly recommended is the Iskender kebab: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of fresh tomato sauce and warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings fresh, thin pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. While you’re there, you may as well stock up on imported goodies from their adjoining store. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right. ul. Egipska 7, tel. 22 672 0525, kregliccy.pl/santorini/

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a res-

COOKING IS OUR PASSION Though specializing in non-gluten, vegan and vegetarian dishes, at Lifemotiv even meateaters aren’t forgotten.

We also have freshlysqueezed juices, ealthy cocktails and gluten-free cakes served inside an open space with a green, pleasant terrace.

If you can’t make it to us, we’ll make it to you! We now offer home delivery and only use biodegradable packaging.

G A L L E R I A M O KOTÓ W L I F E M OT I V. C O M . P L TEL. 884 888 374

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taurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, tel. 22 827 0283, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a plethora of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling pleasantly long after you leave.

(B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited

as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54 & ul. Towarowa 35, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The postindustrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume consistency and excellence. ul. Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl Guru Taking the place of the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins Warsaw’s expanding list of higher end Indian restaurants. Looking slick, modern and easy-on-the-eye, the thought invested in the interior is reflected by a menu that’s more pared down the most and a kitchen that makes a song and dance about the

EAT! Listings provenance of their ingredients. Already, that’s been enough for many to peg this as the most exciting Indian opening for several years: see p. TK. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine deathby-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Karma Having switched postcodes at the start of 2018, Karma’s new Mokotów address has a fresh, contemporary edge with an interior that’s chic, classy and leagues ahead of many of Warsaw’s other Indian restaurants. The food is impressive alright, with a boisterously punchy madras among the highlights. Al.

Niepodległości 18, restauracjakarma.pl Mandala This long-standing legend is known for its ample portions and online delivery service. Sitting down, the creamy mutton methi is a masterpiece, and the Madras recognized for its blitzing big spices. Their latest operation, set out on Sienna, is open for Indian-style breakfast. ul. Emilii Plater 9/11 / ul. Etiudy Rewolucyjnej 9 / ul. Sienna 87, mandalaklub.com or indiaexpress.pl

Mr. India Split on two levels the design is contemporary if a little characterless: leather banquettes that leave a sweaty bum print and wood paneling. No problem though, if it looks bland then the food isn’t.

That means an incredible butter chicken that’s deep and immensely satisfying.

Then there’s the vindaloo, an experience that leaves some close to spontaneous combustion. Undoubtedly one of the best

regarded Indian restaurants in this town.

Al. KEN 47, tel. 22 213 0689, mrindia.pl Namaste India Responsible for first bringing quality, budget Indian food to Warsaw, Namaste have grown from humble beginnings (three tables and cooking done in a cupboard-sized space behind a curtain) to evolve into a bona fide two-floored restaurant. But expansion has come at the cost of quality – our last trip (March 2017) promises to be the last for some time.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 15, tel. 22 357 0939, namasteindia.pl

indonesian Warung Jakarta The menu has a street foodie edge and is divided into steps wherein diners first pick out their choice of protein, then

Finest Authentic Indian Cuisine in Locations Around Warsaw WWW.CURRY-HOUSE.PL

ŻEROMSKIEGO 81 508 870 774

HOŻA 54

536 443 771

KONDRATOWICZA 59 789 444 921

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EAT! Listings their rice, before concluding with any vegetables add-ons (e.g. pak choy, green beans or water spinach). While most Warsaw restaurants have a special lunch scheme going on, Warung’s is one that actually warrants a further look: find truly great off-menu dishes that are highly accessible to all levels of income. (D6) ul.

Piękna 28/34

international Aioli This runaway hit has taken Warsaw by storm. It’s a jaunty space with hams hanging from hooks and long communal tables that thrive with life. Aioli’s breakfasts, sandwiches, pastas and pizzas are a lesson in clean, simple pleasure: nothing out of the world, just consistently good. This and the liberal prices mean there’s no shortage of people passing in and out the doors. (D3) ul. Świętokrzyska 18, tel. 22 290 102, aioli-cantine.com Ale Wino Dip through an archway to discover Ale Wino, a beautiful wine bar whose menu has been well tailored to the season.

Tweaked for the season is the pork belly, a Złotnicka pig adorned with apple sugar snap peas and celery mousse – gorgeous.

As for the wine, put your faith in the sommelier, Oliver. (F5) ul. Mokotowska 48, tel. 22 628 3830, alewino.pl Bazar Kocha Designed to evoke the spirit of a farmers’ market, the woodsy interior is filled with stall-style units neatly stacked with jars and pots. Yet these are not decorative decoys, but part of a thoughtful grocery offer aimed at showcasing Kocha’s own-made produce. Above all though, this is a restaurant whose menu is strongly influenced by concepts of ‘terroir’. The giant leg of lamb falls off the bone and is a dish to recommend and remember for several months to come. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33, bazarkocha.pl Bez Tytułu Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a

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soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce.

The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, beztytulu.com Bibenda The menu declares Bibenda to be ‘a celebration of food, drink and togetherness’, and that’s precisely what it is.

Augmenting the warm, busy interiors are a thoughtful selection of craft beers and a concise menu that varies from month-tomonth. The apparent simplicity of the food is illusory and belies the kitchen’s knack for spotting interesting combinations such as goose with pumpkin puree, cranberry / red wine jam and chili caramelized beetroot. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 10, tel. 502 770 303, bibenda.pl Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, tel. 22 628 9423, brasseriewarszawska.pl Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego 9, tel. 512 540 913, bubbles. com.pl Concept 13 You’d expect a rooftop meal at Poland’s

ultimate luxury department store to cost the earth, but that’s not the case. The zł. 50 lunch deal allows Joe Public to enjoy the considerable skills of Dariusz Barański. That he manages to create different pieces of art each and every afternoon is a testament to his talent – fellow chefs and foodies privately talk of him as a Michelin star in the making.

(D4) ul. Bracka 9, tel. 22 310 7373, likusrestauracje.pl Dekant Wine Bar Not just a contender for Warsaw’s best new wine bar, but also Warsaw’s best new restaurant! The tuna tartar comes with the added ka-boom of a nose clearing wasabi, while the filet mignon (a snip at zł.

79) is simply astonishing. The surprise are the ash-cooked potatoes, beautiful things with a char that wows. The desserts are few in number but equally outstanding: we fell in love with a passion fruit semifreddo with strawberries marinated in Grand Marnier. (F5) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant. com.pl Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, tel. 22 890 0010, derelefant.com Dom Here’s the very epitome of casual dining: set on the ground floor of a suburban house, the warm corners and garden views give Dom a real sense of homey charm. In line with all that is a menu that celebrates simple, honest cooking.

Everyone who visits ends up loving the place. ul. Mierosławskiego 12, tel. 509 165 712 Drukarnia Wrapped inside an ugly 1950s facade, this former printing house unravels to expose a sensational interior high on retro pieces: jagged-shaped stone floor

EAT! Listings tiles, a red neon and stern Socialist era statuettes lend a heavy PRL accent, though the big statement at Drukarnia is supplied courtesy of the architecture itself. Tall windows, high ceilings and a peculiar spiral staircase that disappears into nowhere collude to lend Drukarnia a sense of light, space and depth. The food: limited choice of European standards cooked with competence. If you’re in the area, worth a look ul. Mińska 65, drukarnianapradze.pl Dyletanci Filled with crisp, modern citizens that radiate confidence, Dyletanci introduces itself as a bistro set with green banquettes and Tom Dixon lamps. The wine selection is among the best in the nation, while the cooking has been left to Rafał Hreczaniuk, a workaholic chef with outrageous talent. His zander fillet thrills with every bite. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski Wedged into that narrow strip of land between the river and Port Czerniakowski, Fest feels unique for Warsaw – a place thoroughly isolated from the concrete badlands. But those thinking of this wooden cabin as a one season summer wonder would be overlooking its wider qualities. Of these, the cooking is at the forefront. Simple and straight-forward yet more-ishly addictive, the menu is an atavistic celebration of fire and brawn.

The ribs, cooked in a wood-fired smoker that stands outdoors, have earned this venue a place in local legend. (G6) ul.

Zaruskiego 8 InFormal Kitchen There’s plenty of fireworks over the course of a vibrant menu that sources its produce from regional eco farms: meat from within a 26-kilometer radius of Warsaw, dairy produce from Mazury and fish from Pomerania. The rump of lamb is a class act, and bettered only by the pear and thyme tart for dessert. (D3) Pl. Małachowskiego 2 (enter from Traugutta), tel. 531 918 534, informalkitchen.pl Kieliszki Na Hożej Set on the corner of an ornate pre-war building, Kieliszki casts a warm, beckoning glow on the street outside – resisting its charms is entirely impossible. The

cooking is just as seductive and sees Polish mainstays such as dumplings, tartare and herring given a 21st century update. Superb wines, all of which are available by the glass, round out the experience. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

and you can see why. Few menus in the district cover quite so many bases. From breakfasts and burgers through to salads and pasta, you get the sense of a place that aims to keep everyone happy. (H4) ul.

Francuska 45, restauracjamech.pl

Kuchnia Otwarta Kuchnia Otwarta have created a swell of excitement that’s rippled way beyond Wilanów. Why? Plotted out by Michał Molenda, the menu is a sincere work based around regional, seasonal produce: nothing contrived, nothing forced, it’s a card that roots out the very best that Poland has to offer. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), kuchniaotwarta.pl

MOD Where odd couplings are concerned, MOD takes the biscuit: hip donut store by day, at night it morphs into a cool restaurant whose card veers between steaming bowls of ramen and inventive modern dishes that harness the chef’s

La Brasserie Modern The interior of Didier Gomez whispers intimacy, yet it also embraces notions of space and light. The casual elegance that emanates from the design is accented by warm colors, low banquettes and glinting mirrors. The menu fits seamlessly with the surrounds: a fresh, modern look at French cuisine, but one that values clarity and simplicity. (D3) ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8332, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 964, restauracjaloft.pl

WELCOME TO THE GATEWAY OF SASKA KĘPA ul. Francuska 45 restauracjamech.pl tel. 733 757 200

Mech Nestled close to the mouth of Francuska, Mech has gradually evolved to become one of the area’s main muster points: warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings classic French training (think: beef cheeks with gremolata, tahini mash, veal jus and caramelized sprouts). It’s crazy popular with creative types touting man buns and t-shirts that threaten: “I Shoot Hipsters”. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/ MODOleandrow8

SHEESHA , AU T H E N T I C C U I S I N E , M E E T I N G P L AC E , D R I N KS

Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy.

(E5) ul. Mokotowska 69, mokotowska69. com Momu Dominated by meat that’s cooked using the only smoker of its kind in Poland, the menu is comforting and strangely familiar: these are falvors reminiscent of campfire nights – brawny, smoky tastes with towering Reuben sandwiches, juicy steaks, bone marrow and wooden slabs brimming with meats from MOMU’s smokehouse. Impromptu art, tweeting birds and a neo-industrial design add oomph to the busy ambiance. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 11, tel. 506 100 001, momu.pl Orzo Functioning until recently as Aioli by Mini, the subsequent re-brand has seen the industrial interiors enhanced by a mother lode of plant life and greenery. Other changes include the addition of orzobased dishes as well as a new motto that asserts their connection to ‘people, music, nature’. A cynical attempt to attach themselves to Warsaw’s fad for healthy living, or something more special? We’ll check back soon to check just which it is.

(D6) Pl. Konstytucji 5

dom-faraona.com, O r d y n a c k a 13

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Pink Lobster The door clatters shut to divulge a narrow space of tall palm fronds and marble finishes underneath soaring ceilings that seem to stretch on forever. Bursts of flamingo pink color lend a dapper

sense of dazzle to this polished-looking venue. Food is an upscale work that, in spite of the Lobster’s name, awards equal importance to land and sea. Beautifully plated, dishes that the Insider fell for inc. sea bass ceviche, an exquisite exhibition of complex tastes set down in a slash of green on a plate that could pass for a work of sculpture. Immaculate roe deer and a series of extravagant desserts also won praise. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, pinklobster.pl Plato BEST WAWA 2017 “Neo Bistro” Conceived as a ‘smart casual’ restaurant, it’s a reasonably compact space with a modern style and incandescent bulbs hanging from a complex cat’s cradle of interweaving wires: classy but nothing too flashy or flamboyant. Then there’s the menu, a strange work that sees Spanish influences brushing shoulders next to Polish and Asian. It sounds silly and preposterous but my God it works. December saw us wowed by beef tartar cut from Polish Hereford, an aromatic oriental broth, and a refined halibut encircled with sage pesto, redcurrants and fresh almonds. Stunning. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanow), restauracjaplato.pl Rozbrat 20 There’s a few places that offer catch-all solutions, but in Rozbrat’s case they execute them as well: from dawn, find some of the best baked goods within the city limits; at night, a diverse range of exciting wines; and then there’s an affordable tasting menu that gives fine dining venues real pause for thought. If there’s a weak link, then no-one’s yet to find it. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Secado Casual, intimate interiors complement a menu that’s expanded from its original Latin leanings. Everything we’ve tried here has been close to culinary gold, and that includes the surf & turf, tortillas and the roast beef. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 66, tel. 608 707 799, secado.com.pl Soul Kitchen Bistro If the previous venue was all slanted towards low-pitched business conversation then the new one is positively festive in comparison: scuffed brickwork, tall bar stools, a long communal table, etc.

EAT! Listings The seasonal menu is a pick-and-mix of small-to-medium plates, including a halibut gravlax, whose delicate taste juxtaposes well against the rougher, earthier kick of the radish, and crayfish presented in a bird’s nest of green beans, fennel and leek. For mains, look for the braised beef. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, soulkitchen.pl Stixx It’s easy to distrust a menu with such international diversity, but the kitchen crew really make it come together: the Indian section is particularly outstanding. Then there’s the design, a balance between slick corporate and sexy cosmopolitan: with the Warsaw Spire towering above it outside, it’s the kind of address to take any new arrival who still thinks of Poland as being backward. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl Strefa If there’s a dining room in heaven, then it probably looks like Strefa – only marginally less white. Pure and pristine, the swan-like elegance of the interior whispers dignity and decorum.

Immaculate and refined, it’s a soothing atelier with a rarefied air. Mostly though, it’s the food that people talk about. Citing Nordic cuisine as his primary influence, chef Łukasz Andruszkiewicz has honed a menu of note which, on our November visit, included a deep and soothing mushroom soup the brought to mind Poland’s dark autumn forest. The tastes are clear and true and say much for a chef that has his brain switched on. (C3) ul. Próżna 9, tel. 22 255 0850, restauracjastrefa.pl Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo

Warszawski Sznyt Warsaw’s historic center is rightly glorified for many reasons – its restaurants, however, are not one of them. In fact, there’s probably nowhere in the city with a higher concentration of sub-par efforts. Aiming to redress the balance are Sznyt, an ambitious venue with swank interiors overlooking the Royal Castle, and a kitchen staff headhunted from blue ribbon venues such as Salto and Amaro.

Set over two floors (one focused on Polish cuisine, the other on ‘international’), the pride of the house is afforded to the wood-fired grill. (D2) ul. Senatorska 2, warszawskisznyt.pl Weranda Bistro Warmly decorated with shrubbery and dangling paper decoys, Weranda’s design is thoughtful enough to be in equilibrium with the wider Koszyki setting, yet sufficiently distinct to stand apart from the crowd. Kudos, as well, to the food. Celebrated for their salads, don’t expect to be pecking on morsels of rabbit food – instead, pepare for huge, leafy affairs assembled to look complex and intriguing. Recommended is the Croatian salad which arrives ensconced inside jumbo leaves of lettuce and cascading with mango, shrimps, goat cheese and much more besides. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), weranda.pl

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

White One The changing face of Koszykowa street is almost embodied by White One – where once stood a disintegrating tenement stands a revamped building with this super swanky ground floor restaurant.

Ideal for those nights you want to make an impression, interiors are well-spaced, smart and modern but never too intimidating. The pared-down menu is fully reflective of contemporary dining trends and includes a daily changing tasting menu that’s dependent on both available produce and the whims of the chef. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 47, whiteone.pl Winsky Opened in November, Winsky have made a blistering start to life with early points scored for their selection of edgy ‘tap wines’ and menu of small plates – though mainly Polish in spirit, there’s enough international twists and turns to keep things varied. The design, with its deep warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings sofas and riverside views, feels refined and considered – the kind of place you’d impress a first date. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 10

italian

even busier. Find simple but accurately reproduced Italian recipes and wood-fired pizza ovens that are expertly manned.

(D4) ul. Chimelna 34, bordo.com.pl

Ave Pizza The argument over who serves Warsaw’s best pizza goes right to the wire, but there’s no doubting that Ave Pizza are up there on the leaderboard. Set across a sparse, metropolitan area, this fashionable L-shaped joint comes endorsed by the capital’s notoriously picky Italian community. Order the pillowy calzone and you’ll soon learn why. (E3) ul. Topiel 12, tel.

22 828 8507, avepizza.pl

Delizia The sheer proliferation of Italian restaurants lends an element of chance to dining out: cut through the noise by visiting Delizia, a place that’s consistently topped polls ever since it launched in 2010. Lorenzo’s cooking is upscale Italian with a contemporary twist, and comes presented by Luca, an ebullient ball of energy who patrols the floor with sparkling good humor. In the hands of these two an unforgettable night comes guaranteed..(D5) ul. Hoża 58/60, tel. 22 622 6665, delizia.com.pl

Bordo Offering a breakfast menu from 9 onwards, Bordo starts busy and finishes

Dziurka od Klucza An enchanting locale in which enigmatic, lavender-painted doors sit embedded into the walls, as if waiting to be magically opened by the mysterious keys that hang

from the numerous interior details. Set with empty picture frames and cotton ball lights, interiors just don’t get any cuter.

As for food, the concise, daily-changing menu is centered around homemade pasta – pride of place is given to the black colored pasta served with seafood. (E3) ul. Radna 13, tel. 500 150 494, dziurkaodklucza.com.pl Focaccia The Insider’s visit went something like this: wrist-thick octopus with an arc of yellow mousse, conversation stopping beef tenderloin alongside a glistening pool of madeira sauce and then an orange ice cream with caramel and ginger that soon merged into a big gooey brew of chocolatey mess. The only surprise is there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

This is seriously talented cooking inside an interior that’s fresh and light and reflective of the food. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6969, focaccia.pl

BORDO HAS BEEN PRESENT IN THE HEART OF WARSAW FOR 17 YEARS Breakfast: 7 days a week from 9 a.m. till noon • Order breakfast and get a second one for just 1 PLN Lunch: 19 PLN (Mon – Fri, noon till 4 p.m.) • Soup + main + dessert Mediterranean cuisine, focaccia, bruschetta, sandwiches, pizza, pasta, Italian wines, cocktails, and a choice of lemonade.

VISIT OUR GARDEN IN THE HEART OF THE CITY!

bordo.com.pl

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ul.Chmielna 34, tel. 22 826 0171 info@bordo.com.pl fb bordo chmielna

EAT! Listings Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A, tel. 22 505 91 87 Otto Pompieri If you judge pizzerias on choice then Otto Pompieri’s modest count of eleven pizzas doesn’t promise much – but then it arrives. At zł. 21 for 42 centimeters, the margherita offers the best value per sq/cm than anything out here, while the artichoke pizza reveals itself in an orgy of melty virtue. The retro Little Italy look is rounded out by a cooking brigade that engage in banter and bravado while spinning dough in the air: it feels and tastes ideal. (C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, fb.com/ otto.pompieri Sexy Duck Marketing themselves as a ‘craft Italian kitchen’, Sexy Duck make a song and dance about artisan this and that while never justifying their own hyperbole. Were they not so keen to tell you otherwise, you’d mistake the food as being something from a mid-market high street chain enterprise. Pl. Konstytucji 3, tel. 22 400 3737 Si From the makers of Secado comes a new downtown venture: Si, a fun Italian stop with homemade pasta, an array of pizza and a hefty choice of cocktails. Geared towards good times, a list of rotating daily offers has done a fair job of drumming up trade. (C3) ul.

Marszałkowska 115 Tutti Santi With a kitchen team trained by champion pizzaiola Valerio Valle you’d be right to expect something a few steps beyond your standard high street pizza. Cooked in a woodfired Valoriani oven, the attention to detail is something else: sauce from Pelati tomatoes, Milano salami and Farina Le 5 Stagioni flour. Unsurprisingly, the communal table can really pack out.

(C3) ul. Królewska 18, tuttisanti.pl

japanese & sushi Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Mizu Those who’ve visited have been largely unanimous in their appraisal: Warsaw has not seen sushi this good before. Elaborate, imaginative and immaculately prepped, there’s a magic here that makes the knees go wobbly.

Fresh and flawless, disappointments are practically unheard of. Add to that an off-center location in a former factory and you get a true ‘in the know’ gem popular with celebs trying to go under the radar. Full review soon. ul. Duchnicka 3, mizusushi.pl

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Fat Buddha Immense in size, there’s a confident feeling of decadent ostentation: with light kept at bay by vast mulberry-colored drapes, what would otherwise appear as an over-sized hall feels intimate and sensual, dark and delicious. Japanese in spirit, the menu pitches a refined selection of exceptional dishes – elaborate dragon rolls; delicate gyoza; and beef tataki that’s lightly seared and thinly sliced. It’s all perfect. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 2/4 Gabriel de Garcia & Sakana It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, but Spaniard Gabriel de Garcia takes things in a new direction with his spectacular translation of this Japanese craft. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations (seasonal fruits and flowers figure highly), his creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. Expect 2018 to get even better as word starts to spread of the magic that’s being woven.

(D2) ul. Moliera 4/6 Izumi Sushi The original location never ceases to amaze with its sushi, though it’s the addition on Biały Kamień that really gets people talking. Here it’s not just the food that wows, but the interiors: a huge venue whose open plan doubles as an indoor forest – you need to see it to believe it.

(D6) ul. Mokotowska 17 (pl. Zbawiciela), tel.

22 825 7950, izumisushi.eu warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings Na Sushi Sleek, dark and dominated by a lush picture of a breathtaking waterfall, at Na Sushi a smart crowd join forces around a horseshoe-shaped bar to click chopsticks over a top pedigree menu high on enticements: eel rolls with marinated pumpkin and sriracha wrapped in torched yellowtail and lime; spicy octopus rolls; and tempura rolls with shrimp, eel, mushroom, radish, leek and mayo. Fresh, creative and expertly assembled, it’s a welcome addition to a fast-rising area. Not cheap, but then good sushi isn’t. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 54, fb.com/nasushikoszykowa Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul.

Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis.

At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. Come summer, the scene ramps up a notch with diners flocking to a prim garden area that’s billiard green in color. (A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl

UL. PRÓŻNA 10 TEL: 577 607 775 restauracjasanthai.pl

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Sushi Zushi The mania for sushi is in recess, and that’s a good thing – the rogue operators are dead or dying off, and are survived by the best. And make no mistake, Sushi Zushi continue to be one of the No. 1 ex-pat choices. Appreciated by a stunning crowd, the rolls are often bold, creative and always astonishingly fresh.

(D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12, tel. 22 420 3373, sushizushi.pl

Tomo While Warsaw’s other sushi stops gather cobwebs Tomo packs out each night – that should say enough. With the maki, sushi and sashimi bobbing past on wooden platters, this place aims for fast, maximum turnover without ever making the diner feel second best. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, tel. 22 434 2344, tomo.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, tel. 728 827 705, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl

jewish Tel Aviv “People shouldn’t be excluded from high standards just because they’ve chosen the vegan path,” says Malka Kafka, the owner of Tel Aviv. As such, find a plantbased menu that gives the tastes of Israel a fancy schmancy style – so fancy that Depeche Mode ate here last summer!

(D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl

korean Ban Bao After a strong start Ban Bao have settled into mediocrity – and occasionally worse.

The Insider’s last visit was defined by K-Fries that looked suspiciously like oven chips, gristly Korean Fried Chicken and bao buns that were hardly edible. What the hell went wrong? Last chance coming up. (B4) ul. Żelazna 58/62

EAT! Listings The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times.

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on.

(F4) ul. Solec 38, tel. 787 698 700

ice cream Cafe Crystal Despite its somewhat generic look, Cafe Crystal transpires to be anything but ordinary. Specializing in Korean desserts, the ace in the pack is their choice of bingsu: a light but elaborate concoction of shaved ice and fruity toppings. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 22 Chop Chop Blindingly brilliant Thai-style ice cream: pick up to three flavors, then watch them mashed and chopped together before being sprinkled with the toppings of your choice: Gummi Bears included! The production process does take time which can lead to queues – most agree that the wait times are worth it. (C3) Hala Gwardii Dolce Lato Specializing in Italian-style gelato, it’s quite common to find people traveling across town to sample Dolce Lato’s treats. Check their ‘adult’ ice creams: the Prosecco is a dream. (E10) ul.

Ursynowska 1 Ice Pot There’s still a long way to go, but Ice Pot have already emerged as the Insider’s top scoop of 2018. Choice is narrower than most, but the quality

The Cool Cat TR A hip venue that offsets all the concrete colors with flashes of contemporary art and waterfalls of greenery that tumble over the windows. The overt hipness is reflected by a crowd that’s heavy on tattoos, piercings and odd urban style: you know you’re somewhere cool. Food, that’s a playful spin on Korean cuisine and includes chicken wings in hot gochochung sauce or moreish soft-shell tacos with bulgogi sauce and water greens. Blips aren’t unknown, but the missteps tend to be forgiven: you can’t help but love what they’re trying to do. (D6) ul.

Marszałkowska 8

is something else. Operating as a stall at the top end of Hala Gwardii, top choices have thus far included a deliciously creamy cherry and a show-stealing strawberry with almond flakes. You’ll love it! (C3) Hala Gwardii Jednorożec What is it with Mokotów and ice cream? A wide flavor choice, quality ingredients and a loving hand mark Jednorożec out on a quite competitive field. (D8) ul. Narbutta 38 Limoni Canteri 1952 Limoni’s regular carousel of oddities has, in the past, included cucumber, carrot, beer and tomato. Further, they remain the only producer in Poland to sell specially adapted dog-friendly ice cream! various locations, lodziarnielimoni.pl Lody Prawdziwe Hailed a couple of years ago by Gazeta Wyborcza as Warsaw’s top ice cream, Prawdziwe’s attitude to perfection cannot be faulted. Natural, artisanal ice creams and sorbet are produced using only high-quality, proven ingredients. In terms of excellence, they’ve got it licked. Various locations, lodyprawdziwe.com Melody One of the big success stories of recent months, Melody marry two

Koreanka A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be leftover from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. Though raved about by Warsaw’s Instagrammers, we were left disenchanted by the shallow, empty tastes of the bulgogi. (D6) ul.

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vices together by serving up artisanal natural ice creams inside ‘bubble waffles’. Genius! Various locations, melody.pl Nitro Lody Frozen with liquid nitrogen, just watching the process is enough to make customers feel like they’re part of Dexter’s Laboratory. Smoother than a pane of glass, the result sees super creamy classic tastes jazzed up with sprinkles of Lion bar, Gummi Bears and other such sweetness. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów) & ul. Piwna 4 Roszki Although it looks a little budgetminded, Roszki have won hearts for an offer that’s especially strong on chocolate-based ice creams. The chocolate habanero comes with a fiery twist and a fan club that extends beyond Muranów’s geographic borders. That’s not all: further success has been recorded courtesy of their smashing Jägermeister ice cream.

(B1) ul. Andersa 37 Vegestacja Known as the vegan square mile on account of its proliferation of vegan restaurants and cafes, it’s no surprise to find a vegan gelato stop (‘vegelato’) opening in the area. This year, top marks have gone to creations such as mango lassi and raspberry & cardamom. (D5) Poznańska 26 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Miss Kimchi Cheap and cheerful Korean street food served in a small, steamy space that’s frequently packed to the rafters. Box sets come piled high with meat, rice and veg.

The spotlight falls on the bibimbap, a satisfying mess of shredded veg, lively spices, a fried egg and beef bulgogi. This is replenishment in its truest form. (B4) ul.

an almost compulsory order. (E2) ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22

Żelazna 58/62, tel. 570 186 066 Onggi Positive transformations aren’t confined to Ramsay’s Kitchen Nightmares: after a dreadful start characterized by bland, claggy dishes, this Korean restaurant has spun a U-turn that’s left the competition reeling. The menu is daunting in size, but contains wildly interesting finds such as a streaky bacon stir fry, spicy pickled Daikon radish and lotus root simmered in soy sauce. (D2) ul. Moliera 2 Powidoki Set in the cool white cube that is the Museum of Modern Art, you’d think that Powidoki’s riverfront location would make it a highly seasonal destination. Not so. Though the menu’s brief and the background highly casual, the Korean choices feel more sophisticated and complex than anywhere else, a point that serves to keep business brisk. Served in a turmeric tomato sauce, the pork dumplings are

Sora Maybe it’s not the best, but it’s certainly the best-known Korean restaurant in town. The tabletop BBQ sets are an essential order and ideal for the shared bonding experience. It all tastes even better with copious quantities of Makkoli wine. (A4) ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish Casa Pablo “We give Spanish food a new twist,” declares chef Gonzalo de Salas, which explains why, in between pungent cheeses and acorn-fed Bellota ham, we find ourselves demolishing a variety of dishes that buck all notions of tradition: as a starter the beetroot-marinated salmon served with wasabi emulsion

La Brasserie Moderne is a modern interpretation of traditional brasserie designed to bring the taste of the French art de vivre right to your table.

Discover a seasonal menu skillfully crafted by our Chef Maciej Majewski, who combined the finest culinary traditions of France with local flavors and a modern twist. Our open kitchen will complement your dining experience by making you feel you’re participating in a live culinary show. During the summer time, we also invite you to enjoy our signature dishes on an outdoor terrace.

E-mail: brasserie.moderne@sofi tel.com Tel.: +48 22 657 83 82 www.facebook.com/brasserie.moderne

Visit us Mon – Sun: 12 p.m. – 11 p.m. | 11 Królewska St | 00-065 Warsaw

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EAT! Listings is a fine example of this. With de Salas performing balletic tricks in the kitchen, Casa Pablo presents a masterful menu that ripples with adventure. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 5A, tel. 22 324 5781, casapablo.pl El Botellon A smart locale whose concrete shell is colored with strings of peppers and splashes of art: pleasant in a familiar kind of New Warsaw sense. Much more special is a menu that features snacky tapas sets, sexy canapes, Latin themed cocktails and – something to get you counting down till summer – the Botellon ice pop sticking out of a glass of wine. Coherent, consistent and well-thought out, it’s an operation that slots in smoothly with modern Powiśle. (F4) ul. Solec 18 Tapas Gastrobar The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns.

A great place for sharing and general

interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce.

(A4) ul. Grzybowska 63, tapasbar.pl

mexican Dos Tacos Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country.

This cuisine has enjoyed a breakout year in Warsaw, but while the millennials clamor over new food trucks and funky little start-ups, Dos Tacos is a timely

reminder that the old guard sometimes know best. (D4) ul. Jasna 22, tel. 22 243 4618, dostacos.pl Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, tel. 22 848 9523, gringobar.pl La Catrina Small enough to hear the Mexican chef bantering with the owners, this cheerful spot is all cacti, sombreros and jaunty little finishes. A lettuce overdose detracts

We’ve been thrilling Warsaw with authentic Lebanese tastes for 21 years!

Le Cedre Lounge Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

www.lecedre.pl

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EAT! Listings from the burritos, but the Al Pastor tacos are generally seen as a force of good. (H4) ul. Francuska 31 La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54 Margarita Kolendra First impressions reveal a venue that looks like it wasn’t so much put together on the cheap as it was put together overnight. In essence, you’re left eyeing a sparse white room emboldened by a vulgar assortment of garish, peasant fabrics. The menu, though limited and restrictive, is one of those magic works of passion so rarely seen on Warsaw’s Mexican map. These are dishes delivered with real dash and spirit: if in doubt, order the Al Pastor tacos. (F1) ul. Okrzei 35, fb.com/MargaritaKolendra Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then

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a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes. Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter, and should be treated with respect. But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos and quesadillas are decent in the comfort food kind of way, and ably supported by a choice of milder sauces that don’t require Red Cross treatment. (H4) ul. Francuska 8, spocoloco.pl Urban Burritos Super casual in style, this crowded little haunt fills with embassy workers from the US Embassy, a ringing endorsement if ever there were. Offering fillings of pork, beef, chicken and Portobello mushrooms, well-constructed wraps come served with salsas that sing with gusto. (D6) ul.

Piękna 22, urbanburritos.pl

middle eastern

Dom Faraona Sitting just off Nowy Świat, this Egyptian restaurant comes soaked in the soothing scent of the sheesha. The comprehensive

menu has plenty of zingy Middle Eastern small plates for starters, though really earns its stripes on account of its grill dishes: the lamb ribs are a house specialty. (E4) ul. Ordynacka 13, dom-faraona.com

Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, tel. 22 670 1166, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right. Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another across the river), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine

EAT! Listings is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, tel. 22 618 8999, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Shuk Located behind Hala Banacha in this gradually blooming district of Warsaw, SHUK’s certainly worth the tram ride if you’re not a native Ochotian. An offshoot of the acclaimed Mezze, highlights on our visit included a well-seasoned Arabic soup with lentils and spinach followed by a skillet of fried oyster mushrooms cooked with onions and served alongside harissa topped with rose petals. You’re looking at quite a special place that realigns your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day. ul. Grójecka 127 Sokotra Casting a warm, steamy glow over this corner of Wilcza, Sokotra reveals itself as a well-designed nook with a rough, urban edge: telegraph poles, bare bulbs and exposed lumps of concrete. Yemeni dishes are available though it’s the Indian food that shines – the Madras is intense, pungent and suitably fiery. (D5) ul. Wilcza 27, tel. 22 270 2766, sokotra.pl

polish Bazyliszek Some parts of Bazyliszek hark to its years as a stately, stuffy restaurant. Now though it’s more earthy, with Jurassic portions of meaty, lardy food best consumed

street food Hala Gwardii Housed in a red brick hall dating from the Tsarist era, Gwardii opens up as a sensory big bang of smell, taste, sight and sound.

Framed by a market on one side, and food units on the other, it’s a catch-all social solution that shines the spotlight on independent vendors offering something new: raclette from the ultra-cool couple at Melt, skewers of meat from the gossipy gang at Brasil On The Plate, and Colombian-style sarnies from cheerful San Escobar. There’s more, of course, but you’ll need to investigate those yourself – doing so takes several visits, something that nobody minds at all. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates.

But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Not ones to stand still, May saw the addition of a narrow indoor avenue towards the back flanked on each side by busy street food stalls retailing all from vegan kebabs to super duper Korean noodles. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com Nocny Market Set on a disused train platform, this weekend hangout gets thronged with crowds clamoring over an ever-evolving line-up brings together not just food trucks, but quality restaurants hawking their specials from tiny stalls. Enjoy it while you can – the Grim Reaper awaits this Warsaw gamechanger: for details, see p. 74. (A5) ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna Train Station) Slow Market There are, it goes without saying, plenty of other food points on the riverfront, but none offer as much variation. Operating on weekends, find the area around Plac Zabaw surrendered to a couple of dozen open-air stalls specializing in, among other cuisines, Spanish, Korean, Georgian and Indian. Mixed into one pungent cloud, just the enticing aromas are reason enough to visit.

(E2) Plac Zabaw, fb.com/placzabawnadwisla Targ Śniadaniowy You could well argue that it was Targ Śniadaniowy that originally kicked-off Warsaw’s street food revolution. Despite the name (which, if you don’t know, translates to mean The Breakfast Market), it’s more than just a morning feed. Running through the afternoon, this weekend legend is a little bit of everything: park picnic, food market, music space – you might even find someone to fix your two-wheeler. Various locations, targsniadaniowy.pl

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi Truskawkowe Strawberry dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings with one-liter beers. The Rynek location and festive atmosphere account for its popularity more than anything that comes from the kitchen. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 1/3, tel. 22 831 1841, bazyliszek. waw.pl Bar Gdański Closed last spring, a brief but thorough refit conducted by the new owner has given this milk bar a late lease of life.

Gone are the plastic plants, putrid smells and that slow feeling of death, replaced instead by a fresher look in keeping with the times. Despite this, the historic core has been retained including the daffodil colors and original floor tiles. How’s the food? Cheap. That’s probably the kindest thing you can say about it. Despite that, Gdański feels like an essential part of the community. (B1) ul. Andersa 33, fb.com/ bargdanskimuranow Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery,

it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1, tel. 22 558 6701, belvedere.com.pl Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2017 “Modern Polish” BEST WAWA 2017 “Chef” Hide the white tablecloth! One of the more discernible trends of late has seen chefs attempt to replicate fine dining standards but in casual surrounds. Few are more qualified to do so than Robert Trzópek, a man whose résumé includes experience gained in Noma and El Bulli.

Seeking to ‘reinterpret forgotten Polish cuisine’, his tasting menu at Bez Gwiazdek focuses on a different region each month

– November was a goosey exploration of Kujawa-Pomerania and included such flights of fancy as a goose-stuffed donut for starter. Intimate, forward-thinking, thrilling, it’s no wonder foodies talk about this place with reverence and awe. (E3) ul.

Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by the cooking of Damian Wajda. His cooking presents pre-war dishes as seen through a colorful, modern lens. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Bistro Z There’s no shortage of places in Warsaw claiming to serve ‘food from the heart’, but not many do so with the same integrity and passion as Bistro Z.

Restaurant & Pastry Shop Warsaw, Żurawia 47/49, open: 7.00 - 22.00 reservations: tel. +48 (22) 621 82 68 Pastry Shop Warsaw, Felińskiego 52, open: 9.00 - 20.00

smakiwarszawy.pl

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EAT! Listings Regarded as a pearl of Praga, the look is well-balanced – chic but homely – while the cooking is firmly oriented around local recipes and ingredients. At 20 zeds, the lunch deal is a lesson in charity. (F1) ul.

Ząbkowska 12 Ćma by Mateusz Gessler Open round-the-clock, Ćma has rescued the city’s night owls from the evil clutches of the center’s grisly kebab dens. Set against an edgy, moth-themed interior designed by guerilla artist Tomasz Górnicki, this on-trend nightspot elevates late night dining to new heights with a menu that involves modernized Polish delicacies such as sausage with horseradish emulsion, black pudding with apple and… goose stomachs. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, mateuszgessler.com.pl

Czerwony Wieprz (Red Hog) An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie

tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, tel. 22 850 3144, czerwonywieprz.pl Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, tel. 22 826 4770, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When

you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4) ul. Francuska 11, tel. 22 616 2432, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A, tel. 22 840 5060, restauracjadompolski.pl Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, ‘reconstructed’ would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that

Focaccia Ristorante Modern take on Italian cuisine

by Samuele Mariani

tel.: +48 22 829 69 69 ul. Senatorska 13/15, Warsaw/Old Town restauracja@focaccia.pl, fb.com/restauracjafocaccia www.focaccia.pl

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EAT! Listings could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

GREAT FOOD

Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul. Waliców 13, tel. 22 890 1605, folkgospoda.pl Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie Bursting with flowers and rural touches, entering Gospoda isn’t unlike clambering inside an old granny’s attic. Cheerful in look and style, the rustic energy extends to enthusiastic portions of Polish classics.

(D1) ul. Wąski Dunaj 4/6/8, gospodakwiatypolskie.pl

SEASONED POLISH STEAKS

WONDERFUL SERVICE

Beef n’ Pepper ul. Nowogrodzka 47a tel. +48 785 025 025 mon-sat: 12.00 - 24.00 sun: 12.00 - 23.00

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Jaś & Małgosia Insouciant one moment, your best friend the next, the staff at Jaś & Małgosia show the two faces of Polish service brilliantly.

Reactivated a couple of years ago, this gem has a story dating back to the 60s, and a great atmosphere primed for simple food and local drinks. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 57, tel. 502 033 711, klubjasimalgosia.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting, and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, tel. 501 764 674, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Mała Polana Smaków Few chefs have done more to rehabilitate Poland’s culinary reputation than Andrzej

Polan – a crusader for seasonal tastes and regional produce, his is a menu that gives mundane sounding ingredients new impetus: you’ve had herring before, just not like this. Hell, even the humble dumpling is given an overdue makeover.

Looking warm and woodsy, this super small restaurant has emerged to become a major figure on the national restaurant scene. (F9) ul. Belwederska 13/44, tel. 22 400 8048, polanasmakow.pl Prasowy Delicate diners turn their back on milk bars, yet this canteen-style phenomenon, with its history rooted in communism, has enjoyed a remarkable renaissance and a freshly found popularity with a new generation. Sure, the food is an acquired taste and best described using words like ‘basic’, ‘bland’ and ‘honest’, but Prasowy gets our vote for a cool design that’s seen the 1954 interiors sensitively updated.

(E7) ul. Marszałkowska 10/16 Restauracja Polska “Różana” Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. (E8) ul. Chocimska 7, tel. 22 848 1225, restauracjarozana.com.pl Schabowy Red gingham tablecloths are just about the only decorative element in this plain Jane restaurant; aesthetics don’t figure highly, and that much is clear through an approach to plating presentation that’s best described as basic. But boy, they can cook – simple but delicious, the food here is Polish home cooking at its best: great ingredients used to even greater effect.

As the name suggests, schabowy is the star, and here you’ll find it served in three different forms. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the

EAT! Listings latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, tel. 22 646 4208, restauracjastarydom.pl

Stolica Set in one of Old Town’s smaller, lesser-known squares, Stolica charms with its pre-war, slightly formal ambiance: pristine white tablecloths and spotless mirrors combine with classic Warsaw tunes to generate a storybook atmosphere straight from the pages of Tuwim and Gombrowicz. Food-wise, you’re looking at typically local dishes such as venison marinated in bison grass vodka.

(D1) ul. Szeroki Dunaj 1/3, restauracjastolica.com Talerzyki Presenting big flavors on small plates, here’s a place that miniaturizes the more glorious aspects of the nation’s cuisine and does so in style. The usual suspects are here – silvery slithers of herring; glistening pickles; and beef tartare that flushes raw redness – and if any extra oomph was needed then that’s supplied by classic, old school cocktails served by smooth-talking gents in crisp shirts and braces. Smart and stellar but never silly or over-played, Talerzyki manages the improbable by Polonizing the concept of tapas and coming out trumps. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 33/35 U Fukiera New arrivals looking to get a grasp of local cuisine have many options in varying price brackets. U Fukiera is definitely in the big spend category, but visitors come away with a common sense of wonderment. That’s largely due to enchanting interiors that have guests exploring twinkling chambers that unravel like a fairytale. Set in a 500 year old townhouse, the beautiful backdrop is accompanied by a grand menu of duck, venison, veal and lamb. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasta 27 (Old Town Market Square), tel. 22 831 1013, ufukiera.pl Warszawski Sen By Mateusz Gessler A quite stunning restaurant dominated by dark geometric patterns and the installations and ideas of guerilla artist

Tomasz Górnicki. Once you’ve caught your breath and snapped off a few pics for your Instagram, settle in for a menu that gives Polish ingredients a highly contemporary treatment. If you thought Hala Koszyki was buzzing, then this edgy space is perhaps its biggest buzz of all. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki), mateuszgessler.com.pl

Zapiecek Seven Warsaw locales, with our favorite found in the vaulted passages of Świętojańska. The menu is highly traditional, with courses ‘cooked to grandma’s recipes’. It’s for the pierogi though for which they’re famous; find approx. fifty types delivered by servers dressed like saucy country maids. Locations inc. ul.

Nowy Świat 64, Al. Jerozolimskie 28, Freta 18, Freta 1 & Świętojańska 13, tel. 22 635 61 09, & ul. Wańkowicza 1, zapiecek.eu Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the menu gives star billing to the suppliers that keep the pantry full; but the truth is these aren’t the only heroes. Taking the reigns in June, new chef Oliwia Bernady has grown in stature and skill preparing a daily tinkered menu that opens eyes to the real tastes of Poland. (E4) ul. Smolna 4, tel. 795 794 784, kafezn.pl Zoni The Insider’s favorite top launch of the year? Definitely! For full review, see p. 38.

(G1) Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

scandinavian Nabo The décor is, we’re told, typical Danish cafe – bold open windows, simple lines, high shelves filled with books and games on the table. But what is Danish food? There’s Old Danish on the menu: meatballs and open face sandwiches warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings with meat and fish in various textural configurations and then there’s New Danish: an emerging trend towards fresh, seasonal food (no microwave oven at Nabo), with locally sourced and innovatively concocted ingredients. ul.

Zakręt 8, tel. 22 842 0256, nabocafe.pl

seafood Ceviche Created by the Argentine chef supreme, Martin Gimenez Castro, Warsaw’s first specialist ceviche bar serves up various interpretations of this classic raw fish dish: the corvina is an explosion of peppy, citrusy tastes and leaves you in no doubt as to why ceviche is cresting in popularity around the rest of the world.

Try for yourself inside a contemporary space in which the dining area merges seamlessly with a kitchen decorated with a mural of Maradona (boo!). (C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

L’Arc French in style, seafood dominates the

menu of L’Arc with the lobster and oysters a particular standout. Full review coming soon. (E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl U Rysia Devoid of frills bar a glowing neon sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks like a Polish fish restaurant should – basic but with an undercurrent of bustle that keeps the mood bright. It tastes like the real thing as well. Sourcing their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that have been smoked, steamed, fried or baked. Check out the perch ‘chips’ fried in batter. (C4) ul. Marszałkowska 140 (enter from ul. Rysia), urysia.com.pl

specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed

as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul.

Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl The Crazy Butcher Grzegorz Kwapniewski, better known as ‘Warsaw’s celebrity butcher’, has a new store in town, that being a corner unit in Hala Koszyki. Named by chefs across town as their principal source of meat, Kwapniewski’s offer includes Polish Red Angus, long-seasoned, marbled beef, not to mention veal, lamb, poultry and cured meats from small scale producers. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki) Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Hala Gwardii Taking its cue from the market places of

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EAT! Listings Lisbon and Marseilles, Hala Gwardii aims to reprise its former pre-war role as the city’s best-known food market. Designed to complement rather than compete with Hala Mirowska outside, the market is a sensory big bang with dozens of stalls specializing in everything from cheese and sausages, to rolled Thai ice cream and posh pet supplies. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, fb.com/halagwardii Kosher Shop Snuck to the side of the synagogue, stock up on Kosher produce from the friendly store, before hitting up the falafel tent outside for, aside from the obvious, kosher ice cream. (C4) ul. Twarda 6 Kram Housed in the DeFabryka development, Kram taps into Warsaw’s growing mania for artisan produce to present posh, made-on-the-day bread, fresh fruit and veg from local farms, as well as assorted goodies and pre-packaged items from acclaimed firms such as Rude Health, Cherry Tree, Mleczna Droga, etc. Covering every base imaginable, it’s cult status looks assured. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook. com/kram.nativeingredients Kuchnie Świata The first stop for most ex-pats, with an offer that includes food and drinks from across the globe. The choice is vast but mainly involves tinned and packaged products. Internet ordering now also available. Various locations, kuchnieswiata. com.pl

steak houses Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action.

Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd.

Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf.

Highlights include thumping T-bones and

a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, tel. 785 025 025, beefandpepper.pl Butchery & Wine The Sarf London-born Bertha oven has revolutionized the way steak is cooked, retaining moisture in a way no-one thought possible. Expect robust pieces of animal full of big, brawny tastes, but there’s so much more than just meat: starters involve a sea bass ceviche that pings with citrusy flavor not to mention more-ish pork crackling that pop like fire bangers in the mouth. A place of energy and ambition, it’s a great mix of both new and classic. Bookings advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, tel. 22 502 3118, butcheryandwine.pl Downtown Restaurant There’s now a few candidates for Warsaw’s best steak, and Downtown have certainly upped the erm, stakes, with their new menu. Yes, the doors of Downtown are a gateway to heaven – particularly true if, like us, your vision of heaven is a rich green field filled with fat, juicy cows.

But don’t for one moment assume the offer ends with cows. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental Hotel, level 2), tel. 22 328 8745 Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain. The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives. The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance. Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl

Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds so simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, tel.

603 778 275, hoza.warszawa.pl Merliniego A classic looking steakhouse that swirls in shadow, brickwork and elegant

TRY OUR BUBBLE-waffles WITH HOME MADE ARTISAN GELATO. Nowogrodzka 15 Al. Jana Pawła II 43/25 Francuska 48 Hala Koszyki tel. 509 912 282 www.melody.pl

Evil Steakhouse Already successfully established in Poznań and Szceczin, Evil look to break the recent capital city trend towards higher class steakhouses by introducing a more casual approach to the dining process. In this case, though, casual does not mean inferior: expect dinosaur portions of steak and ribs delivered straight from the grill inside a laidback, straightforward space that’s gone for a rough-industrial look. (D4) ul. Świętokrzyska 3 warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings touches, it’s a place to immerse yourself in an atmosphere that’s all surreptitious conversation and distant clinking glasses.

The steaks are out-of-this world, with USDA prime beef from New York’s legendary Ottomanelli & Sons and Scottish beef from London’s Smithfield Market.

On our last visit we splurged on the Grade 9+ wagyu ‘kobe’ rib-eye and found ourselves eating the steak of a lifetime.

Simply amazing. (E10) ul. Merlineiego 5, merliniego.pl

thai Basil & Lime Reports have been hit and miss, with one Insider noting calamitous service and food that was both over and undercooked. Not on our visit, though. Short and to the point, the menu is defined by its clarity, and we enjoyed a phenomenal yellow curry and banana fritters with the right combo of

crunch and goo. Beautifully decorated with charcoal colors and punches of lime, the Insider felt good long after visiting. Will you? (E8) ul. Puławska 27, tel.

22 126 1943, basil-lime.pl

against what you’d eat in Asia (and you really shouldn’t), then you might enjoy it. “The curry was on taste-wise,” said our disappointed graphic, “but the cream cheese didn’t work in the sushi and the kmichi-style salad served at the beginning was very pedestrian for such a place.” (D5) ul. Żurawia 16/20, tel. 22 629 7012, silkandspicy.pl

San Thai Informal, airy surrounds; fair price points; and a menu that covers enough bases while never becoming overwhelming. Though open for just a few months, so far San Thai have found themselves commended for their fiery recipes and diverse range of dishes. A half-decent wine selection adds to the impression that this street is taking off as something of a scene. (C3) ul. Próżna 10, restauracjasanthai.pl

Thai Thai In terms of design it’s little short of perfect: gold vaulted interiors lend a muted glow to a largely black on black space while serene looking Buddha’s peer on the diners below. As for the food, that’s one big success story with plenty of lively flavors and dynamic colors. The Tom Yang Kung, a deeply nourishing fish broth that awakens the senses with a sharp, spicy jolt, is a must! (C2) Pl. Teatralny 3, tel. 601 818 283, thaithai.pl

Silk & Spicy If you don’t benchmark Silk & Spicy

Thaisty The most successful business model

H A R M O N I Z E D BY C H E F G A B R I E L D E G A R C I A , D I S C O V E R W H AT H A P P E N S W H E N T H E PA S S I O N AT E TA S T E S O F S PA I N M E E T T H E M I N I M A L I S T P R E C I S I O N O F J A PA N …

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EAT! Listings pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality.

Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, tel. 730 000 024, thaisty.pl Why Thai A calming, almost holistic interior sets the tone for a meal dominated by the rich and aromatic tastes of Thailand. For a lively, spicy start begin with a mango and cashew salad, before moving forward and onto their celebrated curries. Imported chefs keep the flavors authentic, with the pad Thai being something of a house favorite. (E5) ul. Wiejska 13, tel. 22 625 7698, whythai.pl Wi-Taj Despite the name, it’s actually the cuisine of Vietnam that is the dominant entity in this restaurant. There is the odd moment of madness (glazed cherries appearing at random), but in general Wi-Taj does a grand job of representing a kitchen that hasn’t always enjoyed the greatest publicity in Warsaw. The crunchy, perky nem are a fine way to start, but it’s the steaming bowls of pho that have this Insider promising to return. As for prices, these rarely climb north of zł. 30. (D6) Pl. Konstytucji 4

ukrainian Kanapa This swish villa is a thoughtful essay in understated elegance: antique and classy, yet with enough eclectic touches to that add that little sense of home. The food fits the backdrop with cooking that feels adventurous in style yet traditional in its taste. The borscht, presented in a huge, hollowed out cabbage, incorporates cooked beetroot, stewed pears and plums, chunks of meat and a wallop of sour cream – these rich and raucous flavors are offset by highly sophisticated alternatives such as blobs of pike caviar and oyster cream on a delicate, crispy

fish skin. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja

vegan & wholefood 30 Koszyków In light of the lavish, local vegan choice, critics could call the menu at 30 Koszyków a little mundane – hummus peaked three years ago, didn’t it? Yet while the concept might not feel new, the execution does. From a limited set of choices, Koszyków’s fast expanding customer base enjoy a range of kick-ass hummus recipes that have acquired a serious following: the beetroot is highly recommended. (D6) ul. Koszykowa 30, fb.com/30koszykow Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-manoeuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: sugar snap peas, radish, carrots, asparagus, etc. The results are both magical and addictive, and leave you wondering if vegan sushi stands to be Warsaw’s next trend. (D5) ul. Wilcza 11, edamame.pl Falafelove Cramped, sweaty and uncomfortable, Falafelove’s customers choose to overlook the aesthetic shortcomings for one very special reason: this is falafel that sets a new benchmark. Recommended is the spicy wrap, comprising of ‘red falafel’, humus, harissa, sundried tomatoes and tahini. If there’s space, join the others on the terrace outside. (C2) ul. Senatorska 40 Falla Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more. (E3) ul. Oboźna 9, fb.com/falla.wawa

Krowazywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few fail to surpass. (D5) ul.

Marszałkowska 27/35, tel. 881 777 894 ul.

Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl ul. Hoża 29/31, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First came a food truck, then a cargo container. Now, Kuchnia Konfliktu have a legit address they can finally call home. First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but more importantly its food.

With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. Full review next issue. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60 Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte – order the ‘hot romantic’, a combo featuring chili, avocado and tabasco. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/ leonardo.verde.restaurant Lifemotiv Aiming to ‘uncover the new potential of millet, buckwheat, kale, beet and cabbage’, Lifemotiv is living proof of how far dining in shopping center food courts has advanced. Kick-off the day with a hummus wrap or an acai smoothie bowl, or check-in later for a Portobello & BBQ burger, or a zingy Mango & Chipotle salad.

Keeping in mind the rest of the world, non-vegetarians have the option to add free range chicken to their salad, wraps or bowls of kasha. ul. Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), lifemotiv.com.pl Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of more standard vegan offers, Lokal keep Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for street food that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings been pretty damn good. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, 517 615 122 Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key thing going for it: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town.

The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple), arguably the best in the city.

(D5) ul. Poznańska 16 Vegan Ramen Shop Co-joining two fads is always a risky business – just ask Loco Mexicana.

All of a sudden, the focus doesn’t fall on just getting one thing right, but two. But despite this double-headed challenge Vegan Ramen have struck gold on account of their complex bowls of restorative goodness: their fan base extends way beyond the boundaries of Saska Kępa. Enjoy in a cool interior filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul. Finlandzka 12A Veg Deli An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that nearly always hit the spot. The tacos are a bit of a disappointment, but the quinoa burger is fabulous, and the homemade Russian pierogi an absolute highlight. (E3) ul.

Radna 14

Weganeracja Warsaw’s vegan revolution is spreading outwards, and with places like Weganeracja waving the manner there’s no reason why it’ll stop there. Hits include towering beetroot burgers, chili sin carne and possibly the only zucchini bigos in the city. The desserts are of particular note, with recent highlights numbering a chocolate cream tart with avocado. ul. Domaniewska 22A Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to

corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Toan Pho Toan Pho’s bowls of soup with rice noodles come highly recommended; as does the chaos intrinsic to this type of casual Asian eatery. The short menu is in Vietnamese with Polish decoding – although you can ask for an English version. (D4) ul. Chmielna 5/7, tel. 888 147 307 Ukim Though not as high profile as Warsaw’s other gastro streets, Chłodna’s emergence has been no less spectacular. But fine dining and fancy wine bars aside, it’s actually the more standard venues that make the area feel so vibrant. Take Ukim, a cheerful joint decorated with steel Tolix chairs and blooming palms. Covering vast tracts of Asia, the menu, for the most part, feels enjoyable and authentic in equal measure: start with duck and mango spring rolls before moving onto mains such as crispy, sticky chicken in tamarind sauce. (B3) ul. Chłodna 2/18, ukim.pl Vietnamka BEST WAWA 2017 “Casual Dining” Divey but lively, diners step down into Vietnamka to find a shouty little lair of mint green walls and wobbly wooden tables. Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul.

Poznańska 7, fb.com/VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu reveals steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

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DRINK!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

TAPPED OUT

Opened mid-July, Kufle’s latest venture is a throwback to the time when Powiśle was indy and upcoming and on the frontline of hip. Doing it in a way that feels shabby, gritty but yet totally cool, this is a bar that riffs on themes of industrial and retro to maximum effect. Ground floor: a small bar area with a secret strip of seating snaking back behind; upstairs, the kind of furnishings last seen when Brezhnev was a boy. And, then, there’s the outside, with its splash of metal seats under a trail of illuminations.

But as nice as it looks, the reason Kufle’s busy is a little more liquid: on tap, find a fluctuating choice of 12 crazy beers sourced from the kind of breweries that make Poland seem progressive. Visit.

Kufle i Kapsle Powiśle ul. Solec 46A

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DRINK! Review

CATCH ME WHILE YOU CAN

As the Nocny Market enters its final few weeks in their current format, the Insider gets lost in this legendary venue…

BY ALEX WEBBER | PHOTOS BY ED WIGHT

A

summery Saturday night and the station is buzzing exactly as it should: swelling with humanity, the packed platform is a blur of color and passing action. But this isn’t Centralna, and trains haven’t left here since the millennium began.

Opened in a largely unfinished state

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in 1938, the fortunes of Warszawa Główna have been mixed at best: strafed by the Luftwaffe in 1939, it faced further punishment at the hands of Nazi sappers towards the end of the war. Picking itself up from the canvas, the battered post-war Główna plugged away as the city’s primary station until the opening of Centralna spelled the writing on the wall. But while Główna’s story appears to be one of recurring bad luck, a second life was found in 2016: nearly two decades after the last train had departed, the station’s decomposing carcass became the unlikely vanguard of a social reawakening.

Set down a disintegrating road riddled with rocks and rubble, Główna’s crippled, crumbling platforms have been given new impetus by the Nocny Market, a seasonal initiative that’s seen the organizers assemble a patchwork of traders and hip little stands.

Announcing itself in a big blaze of noise and neon, it’s a place that effortlessly crackles with the essence of cool.

Of the attractions, food figures highly. But more than just a hyper-cool

collection of ethnic cook spots, the Nocny Market has become the place to get tattooed in front of baying strangers, stock up on artisan donuts, swag some indigo-colored Palace of Culture socks or simply boogie on down to side-burned DJs rescued from the Lost Years of Hipster.

Moving through the throng, stepping over wild weeds sprouting from the cracks in the concrete, the feeling is of being somewhere unique and special and intrinsically bonkers: a place of immense possibilities, it’s at Nocny Market where you can eat anything, meet anyone, drink everything and then do it all again.

A place of good vibes, big beats and beery, blurry nights, it’s principal success has been in uniting disparate groups: from titans of fashion down to nuclear families ‘doing something different’, there’s a wicked diversity that somehow all clicks. But not for long… With Warszawa Główna slated for redevelopment, it’s increasingly likely that this summer will be their last outing in their current location – catch it while you can.

Nocny Market ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Gล รณwna) fb.com/nocnymarket, Thurs 5 p.m. till midnight; Fri & Sat 5 p.m. till 1 a.m.; Sun 4 p.m. till 11 p.m.

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DRINK! Review

IT’S PIMM’S O’CLOCK!

The taste of the British summer inches its way to Poland…

Bar & Books (Wąski Dunaj 20) Central Bar (Hala Koszyki) Stixx (Pl. Europejski 4A) The Alchemist (Pl. Piłsudskiego 3)

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Pictured: step forward the winner of the Insider’s Pimm’s Cup 2018 edition: The Alchemist!

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

F

ew things in life feel as quintessentially English as a pitcher of Pimm’s: bringing to mind tittering toffs at Wimbledon and Ascot, the ultimate summer quencher has been dividing the British classes for nearly 200 years.

Invented by James Pimm, the owner of a London oyster bar, and made to a secret ginbased recipe (“known to only six people in the world,” blabs the PR), it’s been wooing hooray Henrys since 1823.

Sure, take it on its own and it’s every bit as enticing as a sweet, sickly syrup; the magic happens in the mix: lemonade, ice, orange, mint, cucumber, strawberries – and pour. Voila, you have the taste of the British summer presented in a glass. Simple as it sounds, it’s a beautiful elixir that hasn’t traveled well – not to Poland, at least, a country that seems to view it with a disapproving eye. Fortunately, word is spreading, and a growing clutch of bars are learning how it’s done…

DRINK! Review

SLING THAT COCKTAIL!

With the launch of the Raffles Europejski comes the long-awaited arrival of the Warsaw Sling...

THE PLACE

With the city’s nightlife reaching new, uncharted highs, hotel bars have started looking increasingly redundant: gone, the days when they were the center of expat high jinx and riotous nights of tabletop dancing. Of course, some have fared better than others, but for the most part they’ve become strictly the watering trough of itinerant businessmen and passing tourists. In short, not the places in which you’d like to linger. The Long Bar, mind you, looks set to break the formbook.

More a lifestyle choice than it is a hotel brand, it helps a little that’s in the Raffles Hotel – after all, it’s human nature to crave to be seen somewhere that’s the cream of the crop.

And have no doubt, that’s what this spot is: decked out with smooth marble, natural oak, striking art and soft tan leather, it’s a venue that writes a new chapter in the 160-year story of this venerable building.

Luxurious while never being excessive or ostentatious, there’s a calming sense of class that feels elegant yet relaxed: expensive, yes, prohibitive, no. Intuitive service, sophisticated drinks and an interior that feels timeless yet historic in equal measure.

THE SLING!

Said to have been invented in 1915 by Hainanese bartender Ngiam Tong Boon, few drinks can claim to be as iconic as the Singapore Sling. Coined in the Long Bar of the original

Raffles Hotel, and subsequently immortalized in literature and film, it’s just about the most celebrated cocktail found anywhere in the world.

Somerset Maugham, Noel Coward, Rudyard Kipling: think of the Sling and it’s them many think of – sat on rattan chairs, mopping their brows and sweating into hankies.

Though inexorably associated with flouncy British toffs, the Sling was actually first targeted at their accompanying better halves. With the colonial etiquette of the epoch dictating that females couldn’t drink alcohol in public, barman Boon sought to create a ladies’ drink that could be mistaken for a fruit punch but was really infused with gin and liqueur.

Hey presto, the Singapore Sling was born. Well-suited to the sticky, tropical heat of Singapore, it became a cult sensation embraced by both genders.

And with Raffles now present on the Warsaw market, no more do cocktail fans need make do with pale imitations of this all-time classic. But more than just the original, visitors to the local version of The Long Bar also have nine other interpretations from which to choose: among them, the Warsaw Sling (zł. 48), a smooth, refreshing drink composed of Tanqueray No. 10, quince, gingerbread, pineapple, lemon and orange – dangerously drinkable, it’s arguably the finest cocktail debut of the year thus far.

The Long Bar ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings bars & pubs 2Koła Sat, as it is, in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Gemba Despite occupying the bottom corner of an office development Gemba isn’t short of character: that is, at least, if you measure character by the number of thrift store armchairs and vintage extras.

Furbished with lampshades, luggage and varying odds and ends, it’s the kind of dark, debauched bar that trended amongst artsy Poles in the early 00s. (D5) ul. Wilcza 50/52

Bar Pacyfik From Day 1 there was something that felt special about this place, and that feeling has only swelled with the progress of time. With a retro-kitsch interior delivered straight from the age of Scarface (candy floss pink, ocean blue), it’s a bar that’s dark and divey, raw and real. More than just a spot for the cool kids, there’s an inclusive atmosphere that feels positively international. As for drinks, the habanero / salsa infused Bloody Maria is a life-affirming gargle that sweeps through the body like an electric current – three sips and you feel like Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61 Bar Studio The ascetic, modern décor is intentional – both not to compete with the fine

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adornment of the original walls and to break through the building’s grandiose airs. It’s hard not to be overawed by the sheer gigantism of the Palace of Culture that looms above. It seamlessly slips from café during the day into its more culturally active persona in the evenings, with concerts, film screenings, plays and political discussions. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Bazar There’s Krusovice, Bernard and Staropramen on tap, and the Czech slant is lent added meat by a series of evenings held in cahoots with the Czech Cultural Centre – it’s during boozy disco nights the party spills into a shadowy cellar with light retro hints. On ground level its raw and industrial with asphalt colors and overhead pipes. You wouldn’t expect it, but the margaritas are smashing. (F1) ul. Jagiellońska 13

Beirut They’ve smashed a wall through though that’s still not enough to accommodate the crowd. Adorned with detritus inspired by the Lebanese conflict (ammox boxes, sandbags and… a bomb), by day find media types posturing by their Macs. At night, the air of cool dissolves into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Bohemia You have to credit them for trying something different, but by going for a slick, corpo style Bohemia have completely missed ‘the essence of Czechia’. Filled with smooth wood and gleaming glass, it feels more boardroom than beer hall (actually, make that bored room). What goes right? The beer. Poured from a ‘tank’ system designed to maintain your beer’s freshness, it’s every bit as good as drinking straight from the tit of Pilsner’s own brew master. (B4) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bohemiarestaurant.pl

Central Bar The beer (supplied by Bierhalle) is fine, the cocktails are getting better, and the atmosphere is cranked to max: you get the buzzy sense that you’re in the middle of something that’s captured Warsaw’s imagination – the natural focal point of Hala Koszyki, the ever-stretching Central

Bar was one of the biggest hits of 2017.

(D6) ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

Ceska With its fake brickwork and shameless proliferation of Pilsner paraphernalia, the general feeling is that Ceska feels forced and phony – looking like it was fitted out to a rigid company blueprint, it’s more like the kind of theme pub you’d find off Leicester Square. Service, meanwhile, can be surly, forgetful and occasionally plain hostile. The ‘tank’ pouring system is a considerable plus: try the ‘mliko’, a full pint of creamy foam that can be sunk in a swig. (D4) ul. Chmielna 35, ceska.pl Chłodna 25 After several closures, noise clampdowns and a change in management you’d imagine C25 to be a mere shadow of what it once was. But after a slow start the new owners appear to have rescued this listing vessel and returned it to it best. On the ground floor it’s a place of creaking floorboards and retro armchairs, while the basement gets opened for experimental music nights and improvised orchestras. (B3) ul. Chłodna 25, klubchlodna25.pl

Elephant Belgian Pub Signposted by a jolly, dancing elephant, this Belgian pub presents its cause the moment you enter – there’s twenty or so taps laid right out in front, and to the left a fridge that’s expected to top out to cover 200 beers. The design is basic – brickwork, beer kegs and varying ephemera of the brewing trade – but it doesn’t need that much more: it’s about the beer, after all. (C1) ul. Freta 19 Grizzly Gin Bar More prone than ever to global trends, news that the international gin revival has hit Warsaw comes as no real bombshell.

The style in Grizzly is dark and hip with the design largely limited to moody lighting, some witty murals and a bank of outdated TV sets given an artistic twist; the smoking room is great for accidental meetings with curious characters while the occasional gigs really pack a punch – it’s fast becoming the latest and loudest night in the area. (D5) ul. Wilcza 46 Hard Rock Cafe Full throttle cocktails, lively staff and a

DRINK! Listings classic rock soundtrack: the energy of HRC is hard to find fault with. And on the rare occasion there is a lull in the night, use the opportunity to sniff around memorabilia that includes a black leather number once worn by Madonna. (C5) ul.

Złota 59 (Złote Tarasy), hardrockcafe.pl

Kosmos – Inne Beczki Craft beer, pizza, late nights and DJs! In a nutshell, that’s Kosmos. Attracting the kind of crowd you’d anticipate (trend aware 20/30-somethings), it’s the kind of place where a dull time is rare. (D5) ul.

Poznanska 24

Kraken Rum Bar Named after one of the ocean’s most feared mythical creatures (the scary squid from Pirates of the Caribbean), the woodclad Kraken features a wall of cymbals, heavy furniture and some interesting photography. While there’s some decent bottles of rum, there’s perhaps not enough to justify calling it a rum bar. The place rocks though. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, fb.com/KrakenRumBar

Legends Over the years Legends has earned a legendary status amongst the expats and Anglophiles. Their cause is helped by touches such as a proper darts board, Sky Sports and a traditional menu that’s as authentically English as the Downing Street cat. Presiding over it all is Graham, a seasoned expat and Everton nut. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Między Nami With 18 years of service under their belt you may think of Między Nami as being an antiquated has-been. Not so. Haunted by a mix of media types and local characters, this hip white piece of post-commie Warsaw has an enduring, almost timeless appeal. (D4) ul. Bracka 20, miedzynamicafe. com

Miejsce Chwila Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weatherworn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underly-

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ing spirit that made them so famous.

Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. (D5) ul. Żurawia 47

the weekend with some of the most gloriously gorgeous people in the city, then a trip to Sheesha ticks all the boxes.

Presenting itself in a whirl of action, the exotic, clubby atmosphere hits fever pitch come the midnight hour. Earlier, soak up the atmosphere with a scented hookah while lounging under eastern lights. (D5)

Nowy Świat ‘Pavilions’ Approximately twenty bars occupy a series of low-budget prefabricated cabins, presenting possibly the highest density of bars in the capital: in summer, it feels like one big street party. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk. Klaps, with its dildo beer taps and phallic walls, is probably the most well-known of the lot. (D4) Enter

Al. Jerozolimskie 33, sheesha.pl

from ul. Nowy Świat 26

Państwo Miasto Is there anything better than sitting in a bar/café, book in hand, while summery sunshine pours through the windows? We go to Państwo to do just that, an echoey, cavernous spot with a young, lively crowd that’s keen on scholastic events and political causes (B1) ul. Andersa 29, panstwomiasto.pl

Smak Brasserie Open Friday through to Sunday, the upstairs gallery inside Hala Gwardii has views of the market hall action below and a design that’s based around moody lighting, open spaces and rescued furnishings. A fine place in which to soak in the atmosphere of this echoey, pre-war hall. (C3) Zelaznej Bramy 1 (Hala Gwardii) Stixx It takes a moment to allow the sheer magnitude of Stixx sink in. Having adjusted to the wow factor of the interior – which can best be described as cosmopolitan-industrial – most retreat to the long, all weather deck which in itself is quite something: the aesthetics are such that a cocktail party on an oligarch’s yacht comes to mind. There aren’t many better places for a drink when the roof is rolled back and the stars twinkle above.

(A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, tel. 22 340 4040, stixx.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome.

The hangover from this shabby, grubby bar is traumatic. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Przystań Nowa Fala If nothing else, 2018 will be remembered as the year the Wisła finally kicked-on to go more upmarket. Playing more than a bit part in all that is Przystań, a gorgeous, moored vessel with ample seating both inside and out. On the first level, order from a bar well-stocked with craft beers, world wines and funky cocktails, before heading to the open upstairs deck to join a fun, cosmopolitan crowd stretched out under the stars. (E2) Bulwar Gen. George’a

Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul.

Marszałkowska 17

Smitha Pattona

Ul Cool and current, the globalized menu has distinct Asian accents and is enjoyed in a rough-chic interior of painted brickwork and dangling lights. Come night it feels dark and divey, the kind of place you head to party. And party you will – closing at two during the week and four (and beyond) at the weekend, the vibe is hard and energetic and befitting of Poznańska. (D5) ul. Poznańska 16

Sheesha Lounge Providing you don’t mind sharing

Ulubiona Set inside the archway, look for a heavy

DRINK! Listings door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months.

Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 27 W Oparach Absurdu Hidden under Persian rugs, velvety drapes and reclaimed antiques, some still refer to it as The Spider Bar in reference to the giant tarantula that once hung from the wall. There’s an air of louche 60s living here, and it gets weirder when bands with names like the Bum Bum Orchestra enter to play trumpets amongst vodka-tipping guests. (F1) ul.

Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts.

(E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle. pl

Worek Kości A celebration of both the burlesque and bizarre, Worek Kości is the bar Edgar Allan Poe would create were he raised from the dead. A lively evening hangout with ad-libbed cocktails and an unconventional program of events, you’re as likely to visit during an open-mic night as you are a discussion on Silesian serial killers. This fascination with the morbid and macabre manifests itself by way of a quirky design featuring hundreds of skulls and book shelves lined with the complete works of Stephen King. (E7) ul.

cafés Bułkę przez Bibułkę There’s a feminine style to this cafe, what with its cute, girly pastels, petite plant pots and woodsy finishes. But no matter what your gender or age, there’s something immediately sunny and positive about this place. Slow food sandwiches arrive on wooden boards, there’s pretty homemade desserts and a careful choice of wine: falling in love with it is easy. ul. Puławska 24 & ul. Zgoda 3, bulkeprzezbibulke.pl

Być Może It’s all about artisan bread and breakfast in the industrial looking Być Może. It’s taken the concept of Charlotte (groan, there’s even a communal table), and improved it with excellent breads and a crowd that’s a little less pleased with itself. (E7) ul. Bagatela 14, bycmoze.com.pl Charlotte Menora If the air is smug and self-satisfied, there’s a good reason for that: Charlotte have come to embody modern urban Poland: energetic, ambitious and ferociously trend conscious. And to think, some look at it as a mere bakery. Occupying a long space, the latest outpost of this café chain doesn’t overlook the area’s Jewish heritage, with the menu featuring several Jewish delicacies: the bagels are ok. (C4) Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.pl Coffeedesk Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right.

Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by headphoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. (D5 ul. Wilcza 42,

Bagatela 10

fb.com/coffeedeskwilcza

Żyrafa Sucked inside it’s green/blue glow, visitors all but collide against the bar with a swing of the door. It’s just 15 sq/m, but that doesn’t stop drinkers rolling in. “There’s some nights we’ve had 30 people in here,” says the barman, a thought that both terrifies and exhilarates in equal measure. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 22

Cophi So small you get the idea you could fit Cophi into the palm of your hand, yet no other place in Warsaw is more devoted to sourcing the best coffees in the world. (D5)

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ul. Hoża 58/60

Czuły Barbarzyńca na Piwnej A Parisian-style bookstore full of steps

and wobbles, nooks and alcoves. All agree there’s something special here: maybe it’s the book selection – varied, esoteric and at once compelling. Or maybe it’s the atmosphere, such that browsers anchor themselves on the sofas to lose an afternoon with their nose in a novel while sipping drip coffee. (E3) ul. Piwna 20/26, czuly.pl

Dobro & Dobro Cafe Measuring just six square meters (record attendance: 12 customers!), the tiniest cafe in Poland has grown into a cult stopoff for people looking to do something wacky. If you’re into karma, then buy a suspended coffee – order a coffee in advance for a stranger, write a personal message and then hang the cup from a string. (E8) ul. Puławska 11, fb.com/dobrocafe EmEsEn Heaving with heavyweight art titles and photo albums, the crowd that gathers in this café/bookstore is suitably leftfield and creative. On the work front, strong wifi and plenty of plugs make this one of the better venues in which to put your nose to the grindstone. Aiding your endeavors is a serious choice of coffee sourced from roasters such as The Barn from Berlin and Melbourne’s Atomica. (C4) ul. Pańska 3, fb.com/emesen.kawki

FatWhite_CoffeeBar Attached to a super cool barber shop (tatts, beards, crazy whiskers) Fat White have a beauty of an interior: swan white with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. Coffee comes from Kofi Brand, while sandwiches are made by personal chef / co-owner Filip (that’s his Scooby Doo van outside!). (C1) ul. Andersa 6 Forum Having ditched their old, pokey address off Pl. Zbawiciela for (slightly) larger surrounds on Elektoralna, the curious location of the new operation has done little to dent their popularity: at all hours, find tables inside this fashionably sparse / frayed set of rooms occupied by cool-looking designer types gabbling into out-sized headphones. Changing weekly, the big pull is a choice of specialty coffees fixed by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. The quality is, quite simply, brew-tiful. (C3) ul. Elektoralna 11, forum.coffee

DRINK! Listings Lapidarium It’s high time that the Old Town Square had a café worth visiting, but would have thought that it would be a museum providing such? Run under the aegis of the Museum of Warsaw, visitors choose from rustic meals prepped locally by Gospoda Kwiaty Polskie, regional beers, Polish wine from Mierzęcin Palace and tea courtesy of Harney & Sons. Enjoy these in minimalistic vaulted interiors or in a soothingly calm courtyard garden stacked with gargoyles and other historic elements. (D1) Rynek Starego Miasto 40,

Ministerstwo Kawy Sourcing their coffee from Koppi, an internationally acclaimed Swedish roasting house, the ministry takes no short cuts in their pursuit of excellence.

Utilizing Ethiopian, Costa Rican and Brazilian arabicas – some exclusive to Poland – barista Wojciech Rzytki has earned a reputation across Poland for his expert hand. Rave reviews are standard and appropriate. (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 27,

lapidariumcafe.com

ministerstwokawy.pl

Kafka Café A chessboard floor and a collection of antlers on the wall characterize Kafka, a bookstore / café whose literary collection is composed of paperbacks rescued from recycling plants. Books are purchased by their weight (zł. 10 per kilo) while the menu includes pancakes, pastas and even doggy treats for your mutt. (E3) ul. Oboźna

Niezłe Ziółko Café & Deli A shrine to pure and healthy eating, this friendly café doesn’t just brew a great coffee, but bakes its own bread and produces its own yogurt. Sit in the loft to look down on shoppers scurrying to Mokotowska, and on the way out, check out ‘Grandma’s Cupboard’ in the corner: jams, spreads and olive oils are there to buy for home. (D5) ul. Krucza 17

3, kawiarnia-kafka.pl

KluboKawiarnia Towarzyska With an interior modeled by John Strumiłło, this 50s pavilion has an ascetic design defined by polar white interiors.

Contrast is provided downstairs, with deep magenta walls and retro armchairs.

Concerts, screenings and art happenings have made it into something of local cultural mainstay. ul. Zwycięzców 49,

Odette Tearoom Taking its lead from their original dessert stop on ul. Górskiego, the sister venue peddles glorious cakes and pralines as well as a hand-picked selection of boutique teas served in a fragrant and elegant atmosphere. (C4) ul. Twarda 4,

klubokawiarnia.net

Relaks Expertly prepared, right down to the foam art, the baristas here use the finest imported machines and work only with fair trade, ‘specialty’ coffee. If you have time, the drip coffees are more than worth the wait. The crowded interiors supply a retro accent, and are enjoyed by a fashion aware, laptop-touting crowd.

Labour Cafe Labour Café’s door crashes open onto a busy space that sets bare raw materials of steel, wood, concrete and brick against lashings of plant life and bursts of poster art. But if the front part is all about catching up with friends and soaking up the vibe over bagels and ‘ethical’ coffee, then outback is where the serious stuff happens – discover a studiously quiet dual-level working space featuring a printer, flipcharts and plentiful light. (E4) ul. Tamka 49, labour.pl

Matcha Tea House Renting the space once occupied by the legendary Bastylia, Matcha certainly have a big pair of boots to fill – but fill them they might. Beyond a comprehensive choice of matcha, find also an array desserts that use this green Japanese tea

as their cornerstone ingredient. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 17

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odette.pl

(E9) ul. Puławska 48

Resort Originally known for their OTT recycling motif (shopping trolleys re-purposed as seats, street signs as tables...), Resort have pared the design down replacing the old junk with a cool, caramel-colored look high on wood, plants and discreet retro accents. Craft beer, eco-friendly bites, clever cocktails and quality coffee contribute to their popularity, as does a busy events program that’s big on comedy and open mic nights. (C2) ul. Bielańska 1

Same Fusy Suffused in a candle-lit glow, this 15th century cellar unwinds to reveal a charming brick room suspended in time.

Filled with gnarled wooden oddities and tree stump tables, the sweet aroma of fragrant teas helps amplify the fairy tale mood. ul. Nowomiejska 10 Stor Buying their coffee from revered roasters such as Berlin’s Bonanza and Stockholm’s Drop Coffee, Stor have grown to become a giant presence on Warsaw’s café map. Visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. ul.

Tamka 33, fb.com/storcafe

Wrzenie Świata Those with journalistic leanings love Wrzenie Świata. It’s definitely more Macbook than Moleskine, but this bookstore/café attracts plenty of readers (and writers) to its book-lined interior.

Buzzing like a cafe should, it packs out for slideshows and seminars. (E4) ul.

Gałczyńskiego 7

clubs Luztro Don’t sit down, you won’t know what you might catch. Dark and generally filthy, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – you’ll know if it’s your scene. (E4) Al. Jerozolimskie 6, luztro.pl N58 The latest entry on Warsaw’s club circuit have issued a manifesto promising deep vocal house, r’n’b, mash-ups and theme nights centered around Afro Beats / trap / twerk and hip hop. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58 No Comment A secret world for those In The Know, find No Comment in a seedy-looking tower under Poniatowski Bridge. Clad in

DRINK! Listings decadent, blue velvety surfaces, this tiny bi-level club feels redolent of an afterhours Parisian members club: everyone seems to know each other, and after a bottle of bubbles you will as well. (F4) Al. 3 Maja 16/18A, Most Poniatowskiego

Ritual Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. (D3) ul. Mazowiecka 12, ritualwarsaw.com

Room 13 Connected by a series of inter-linking archways, rooms inside this dressy club throb at the weekends with a super sexy crowd letting loose under the vaulted ceilings. Now in their fifth year, it’s become a stalwart of the Mazowiecka scene. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 13, room13.pl

Sen Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wallto-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-toceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. The good life doesn’t get any better. (F4) ul. Wioślarska 6 Smolna 38 Hated by the selfie mob (guests have to cover their phones with a sticker), rated by everyone else, Smolna’s nights have grown to become legend. Pete Tong, Simian Mobile Disco and Hercules & Love Affair have all played in the past, which says much for the management’s ambition. (E4) ul. Smolna 38, smolna38.com

ONTO THE RIVER Come summer and it’s all about the Wisła. The

moment the mercury climbs, a string of bars open on the left bank to create an amorphous blur of drunken din. Not all are equal, and ones to seek out include the following…

Boats

There’s a few to choose from, though two that really merit the callout. First, moored right by the Copernicus Science Center, bounce across a gangplank to visit Barka Wynurzenie, a craft beer barge with street food courtesy of Kukpit. Note: lines for the toilet can be insane, and you might be put off by that dizzy, wobbly feeling that comes with being on a boat. Altogether more stable, larger and generally upmarket is the nearby Przystań Nowa Fala, a slick-looking boat with a mighty drinks offer (flouncy cocktails, craft beers, upmarket wines) and a great open-air, top-floor deck.

Boulevards

With the ban on outdoor drinking rescinded earlier this year, the terraced steps of the riverfront boulevards have been hijacked by hundreds, nay thousands, of youngsters swigging from cans and passing around bottles; as they do, the music from dozens of competing sound systems merges into one to form a solid wall of relentless beats: it’s heady rush, and one that peaks out around Plac Zabaw (between the Copernicus Science Center and Metro Centrum Kopernika). Each weekend, dozens of footstalls open for business to keep the drinkers fed.

Cream of the Crop

Just south of Most Poniatowskiego, find Zachodni Brzeg and Winsky catering to a high-end, smart-casual crowd from the ground floor of The Tides building. Both offer a well-to-do atmosphere that’s laidback, relaxed and removed from the intensity of the free-for-all in front. In the adjoining building, Sen has become the biggest hit of the summer with a line-up of top DJs, a sexy rooftop terrace and a crowd that’s all catwalk looks and slinky glam.

Carnage!

Next stop, drunkenness! Head a bit further down to reach Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej, a section of the river that contains Pomost 511, Cuda Nad Wisłą and a few other beach bars, dance tents, repurposed cargo containers and line after line of swampy toilets. Full of frenetic action, roving hands, shouting lads and shrieking girls, it’s become a rite of passage for newcomers to Warsaw. You might not necessarily love it, but you’ll certainly remember it for a bloody long time. It’s here that heaven meets hell to form a memorable alliance.

Spatif The varied music policy shines a light on a revolving schedule of sounds,

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DRINK! Listings pinning its attention on everything from jazz and soul to Britpop and electro.

Spread across a series of chambers decorated with vintage fittings, parquet floors and wood-paneled walls, Spatif’s main success lies in replicating that fun, spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control: no matter their individual back story, everyone gets on (and occasionally gets off). Just about the most unpretentious club night you’ll find, this labyrinthine pre-war tenement feels fun, diverse and never up its own arse.

The View Occupying the upper levels of a skyscraper, The View is a place of bubbles and beauties and all things glam. A world class venue, past crowd pullers include Bob Sinclair and David Morales.

In summer, the glam and the gorgeous won’t be seen anywhere but the open air rooftop deck: it’s pure NYC. (C4) ul. Twarda 18, theview.pl

cocktails 6 Cocktails If 6 Cocktails has the feeling of hanging around someone’s flat that’s because, actually, you are. This posh Mokotowska apartment has been re-adapted as an exclusive bar frequented by leggy models and society figures: the parties are nuts!

Unmarked from street level, to enjoy the inventive cocktails message them on FB and await your invite. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 57

its zenith each summer thanks to a leafy back garden that stands shaded by this modernist building: it’s worth visiting just to swan down the spiral stairs with a glass of something bubbly. ul. Francuska 2, fb.com/bialazjedziwypij

Charlie Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. (E6) ul. Mokotowska 39 Column Bar Just the look of Column Bar sweeps you off your feet; there’s something breathlessly classy about it, like you’ve just entered Gatsby’s ballroom. You want to order a pyramid of champagne and dance on their piano. Behave, and order a cocktail instead. For a taste of the classics, the Column Bar is pretty peerless.

(D2) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Hotel Bristol)

Podwale Bar & Books Though it doesn’t have to be winter to enjoy T Podwale Bar & Books, it definitely helps.

R C P T M Seen through frosted, foggy windows W it’s Ca venue that reveals itself as a place ≈ W C of dark, ≈delicious colors and rarefied C air.C Occupying the kind of charismatic ≈ T gatehouse you’d read about in Dickens, ≈ P E position ≈ yourself in front of the upstairs L S fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a P B something B glass of tall and lovely: the cocktails are in a class of their own and specifically customized for the season.

HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

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EETTM

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IGARS &

INE &

HISKY

HAMPAGNE

OCKTAILS &

USINE

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RIVATE

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ODWALE

HOOTS

AR AND

OOKS

Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

10%

(D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

Bardziej It’s thanks to places like Bardziej that Oleandrów is becoming one of the most talked about streets around. This splitlevel bar does a good job of capturing theVessence of the area, with inventive O L i n Y a P ‘author’s cocktails’ matched against a www.barandbooks.pl warm, dimly lit interior that’s heaving with cogs, metal hooks and enigmatic dials.

The later it gets, the better it is. (E5) ul. n

isit

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ew

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12.08.15 20:49

NONALCOHOLIC BEVERAGES OR MERCHANDISE. VALID TILL DEC 30TH 2018 FOR PURCHASES OVER 150 PLN.

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches

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Twarda 4, cosmobar.pl

Kita Koguta The staff aren’t afraid to get imaginative, and that includes serving cocktails in smoking coconut husks. Not all the experiments go as planned: on our last visit, a basic Bloody Mary was turned into an alcoholic carrot flavored fizz. (E5) ul.

Krucza 6/14

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*SHOW THIS ADVERT AND GET 10% DISCOUNT ON FOOD, Marszałkowska 21/25 (enter from Oleandrów)

Cosmo Bar Though they’ve made a big noise about embracing a variety of initiatives aimed at maximizing sustainability, Tomek Roehr’s Cosmo Bar project, is more than a one-trick pony. Beyond the novelty factor is a scrupulous attention to detail that manifests itself in impeccable cocktails based around Polish produce – rowanberry, sea buckthorn and suchlike. Occupying a plush, little corner of the Cosmopolitan Tower, this is luxury with a conscience. ul.

Kiti Bar A raucous bar drawn up by the owners of the nearby Kita Koguta. Dominated by a tall Polynesian totem, this ray of sunshine gets noted for extravagant cocktails served by game staff in zany shirts. (D5) ul. Krucza 6/14

DRINK! Listings Na Lato Once derided as a hipster haunt, the twits have moved on, replaced instead by an increasingly on-trend crowd of rich young things. The cocktails are without doubt up there with the best in Wa-wa and the basement club area has the added boon of a glassed-in smoking room. (F5) ul.

Rozbrat 44, na-lato.com

Panorama Sky Bar The Marriott’s 40th floor Panorama has had a couple of incarnations: first, as a glitzy Dynasty throwback, and then, more recently, as something that could have passed for a business class airport lounge. Now it’s been reinvented once again, only this time successfully: find slick, vibrant interiors redolent of London matched up with modern cocktails and twinkling views. (C5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, panoramabar.pl

The Roots Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 11

Weles Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city.

(D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 11, welesbar.pl

Woda Ognista Woda Ognista evokes the jazzy air of a Chicago, Prohibition era speakeasy with a seriously stylish interior that includes a colossal collection of vintage cocktail shakers that glint behind glass. The drinks themselves, rattled up by dapper gents in braces and flat caps, are split between house creations and reprised classics from a bygone era. Some are more successful than others, and it’s a credit to the staff that they’re willing to take comments on board and adapt their precious recipes to suit fussy tastes. (E5)

ul. Wilcza 8, wodaognista.com

with warm tones and 16 taps of beery goodness. ul. Andersa 23, fb.com/craftbeer-

Zorza Slotted inside what was once Café 6/12, Zorza embellishes the venue’s ascetic PRL style with licks of art deco: it’s an unlikely marriage that manages to work.

Do your pecking, picking, sipping and supping on an outdoor terrace set-up that encourages mingling and interaction. (D4)

muranow

ul. Żurawia 6/12, zorzabistro.pl

craft beer

Cuda Na Kiju Where it all began. Summer catches Warsaw’s original tap bar at its best, with the courtyard of the former Communist Party HQ now home to an entirely different kind of party: on occasions find food trucks and film screenings, and all other times just a massive crowd getting sloshed on 15 types of tap beer. But even outside the sweaty months Cuda is worth

Artezan Pub The country has crazier breweries for sure, but does it have anyone more consistent than the lads at Artezan. Famed for their Pacific – the quintessential domestic IPA – Artezan’s flagship bar is a standard bearer not just for quality, but for Poland as a whole. (D4) ul. Moniuszki 1A Bistro Warszawski Kapsel Occupying a (very) small corner unit on Tamka, there are some who might better remember this address as the short-lived home of Heritage Birreria Artigianale – an Italian inspired craft beer bar. The beer taps have survived, only now you’ll find them tweaking out artisan brews closer to home. Of the other noteworthy changes, the addition of a TV screen resolutely tuned to any live football has been seen as another major plus. ul.

Tamka 9

Chmielarnia A subterranean multi-tap found in the depths of the fishing institute. Artisan beers rule the roost here (there’s 15 taps and stacks more beer in the fridge), a point underlined by a glass coffin of mainstream macro lager. While the bar gets loud and rackety, sweaty and sticky, that’s balanced out by a rotating beer offer that’s moderately priced plus a friendly, earnest audience that’s all beer geeks and know-it-alls. (B5) ul. Twarda 42 (basement level), chmielarnia.waw.pl

Craft Beer Muranów Though still an area thick with beretwearing, dachshund-walking oldies, Muranów is fast catching up with the rest of Warsaw. Taking care of the craft beer angle is this newbie, a bi-level bar warsawinsider.pl

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DRINK! Listings the visit: drink inside a modern, glass cube that’s refreshing contemporary. (E4) ul. Nowy Świat 6/12, cudanakiju.pl

squirting out Polish craft beer, while food is a welcome affair involving pulled pork burgers, pastrami and even vegan curry.

(D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 5

Cześć It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on tap. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like the Artezan and Pinta breweries. The laidback, neighborhood atmosphere is making it increasingly popular with a tight-knit circle of ex-pat drinkers. (C3) ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage), czesc.waw.pl

Czeska Baszta Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. (E4) Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

Drugie Dno To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. (D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 4

Eufemia Even in a country that prides itself on deceptive addresses, Eufemia outdoes them all by suggesting gig-goers head to Krakowskie Przedmieście. Actually, you need ul. Traugutta, and from there to search out the salmon pink palace that’s entered via Niżyńskiego. Obvious, huh? Slipped down some narrow steps, Eufemia unwraps into a series of side rooms furbished in simple style with occasional flourishes provided by the local art school. Drinks come from 12 taps

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Goraczka Zlota Get down with the locals at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town.

Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal.

(D5) ul. Wilcza 29, goraczka-zlota.com.pl

Jabeerwocky Steeped in multinational drunken babble, the super sociable Jabbers is famed for its innovative beer selection and convivial atmosphere. Mark it down as an absolute must-visit, especially if you’re a fan of stout and cider. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 12, taproom.pl

that gives this pub its name. Set across a series of cavernous chambers inside an attractive Old Town property, its not just beer buffs that it appeals to: sourcing their ingredients from small-scale farmsteads, the kitchen wing of Maryensztadt does a convincing job of representing the tastier side of regional Poland. (D1) ul.

Szeroki Dunaj 11

Mikkeller Bar Warsaw Light and bright the sparsity of the interior is a surprise: a classic case of less is more, here the punchline is given to the beer. That means twenty taps firing out a revolving roster of kickass beers that, thus far, have included lambic-style ‘SpontanPear’ and yuzu flavored Berliner weisse. It’s an utter geek-gasm for beer nerds. Prices for the Danish stuff start in the early 20s and soar upwards from there – in return, you’re getting brilliant beer that breaks brewing boundaries.

For cheapskates, Polish options kick-off at approx. 13 PLN. (D4) ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/MikkellerBarWarsaw

Kufle i Kapsle Interiors are balanced with the pre-war heritage of the place, and are thick with noise, clamor and the smell of spillage.

Found somewhere towards the top of the national hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices to note-taking beer nerds. The male to female ratio is somewhere near equal, which in itself feels pretty unique. (D5) ul.

Piw Paw We don’t like: the sweaty toilet, strange smells nor the scrum at the bar. We do like: the 24hr opening hours, humongous fridge and 50+ taps. Seen in the light it’s a little depressing, so visit at night when Parkingowa takes on the look of an endof-term street party. (D5) ul. Żurawia 32/34 (enter from ul. Parkingowa), piwpaw.pl

Nowogrodzka 25, kufleikapsle.pl

Kufle i Kapsle Żoliborz While Nowogrodzka is the beating heart of the tap bar trend, not even the suburbs are safe from this flourishing movement. By expanding out to Żoliborz, Kufle i Kapsle have cornered a captive market. There’s just seven taps here, but they’re a magnificent seven – find a great representation of Polish craft draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees first-timers quickly converted into returning regulars. ul. Popiełuszki 19/21, kufleikapsle.pl

Maryensztadt Craft Beer It’s a mixed crowd of locals and tourists that gather in Maryensztadt, a large bar whose 12 taps showcase the highs (and occasional lows) produced by the brewery

Same Krafty Vis-à-vis You wouldn’t have thought it a year back, but reasons keep emerging to drink in the Old Town. When it comes to pubs, Same Krafty top the list, but try getting served at peak drinking time. So here’s some brilliant news: they’ve now opened another bar opposite. Pass under a dragon’s head before stepping into a supremely friendly room with ten taps, a strong bottle line-up and an atmospheric side chamber. (D1) ul.

Nowomiejska 11/13, samekrafty.pl

The Taps No longer a niche movement, the opening of The Taps is another sign of craft beers mainstream market penetration. Set on the once super trendy Sienkiewicza, hopes are high that the opening of this three-floor drinking den could yet revive the fortunes of this street. Appealing to a young, pre-club crowd, the industrial /

DRINK! Listings loft-style décor feels rather contrived and a little too polished. ul. Sienkiewicza 4 Warzą się Losy “Nowhere in Warsaw,” boasts the barman, “has more beer taps per square meter.”

Despite its diminutive footprint, WsL punches above its weight with eight taps turning out new generation Polish beer.

Decked out like an anechoic chamber, the combination of good beer and mouse hole dimensions mean that it doesn’t take long for conversations to crossover with the scattering of strangers at the bar. Soon enough everyone’s drinking together and toasting the night. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 3

for gentlemen Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed

on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

live music Hydrozagadka Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider Hydrozagadka as the heart of unforced cool. Known for its alternative music scene, the low-ceiling and tight, crowded nature of it generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the atmosphere is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out: you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22, hydrozagadka.waw.pl

Klub Pogłos Arguably Warsaw’s No. 1 venue for alternative music, Pogłos checks all the requisite boxes: a divey, gritty look, a liberal atmosphere and an army of fans willing and eager to embrace the seamier side of night. The packed program of events runs from spoken word performances and vegan BBQs, to sweaty tribute concerts celebrating The Smiths. At other times, you’ll be listening to touring Berlin-based bands, hardcore DJs or psychedelic soul from the likes of King Khan And The Shrines. If it’s weird, it’s on. ul. Burakowska 12, fb.com/klubpoglos Pardon To Tu Strung with overhead lightbulbs, the revived version of this legendary bar has that same indomitable spirit associated with the first: dogs romp about while Warsaw’s intelligentsia discuss the issues of the day. As dusk turns to night, a gentle drunken fog settles in the air, and the atmosphere crackles as the drinks mount

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DRINK! Listings up. But Pardon’s temporary summer home is exactly just that: an open-air area with bits of corrugated roofing. Not that anyone minds, and that’s especially true come the onset of gig night. With concerts held in an adjoining warehouse, it’s in here that the true soul of Pardon reveals itself. (D9) ul. Madalińskiego 10/16,

crates and deep, dark colors. But the clincher, that’s the prodigious selection of champagne. Now while you’d usually expect a champagne bar to be filled with footballers wives and berks with fake tans, Bubbles feels inclusive, convivial and anything but vain. (D2) Pl. Piłsudskiego

Dom Wódki Those expecting Dom Wódki to be a standard mucky shot bar are in for a surprise.

Sparkling with over 250 artisanal vodkas, find them incorporated into inspirational drinks mixed by Tomasz Małek, a world champion flair bartender. More than just show, the tastes are incredible. (C2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl

WuWu Open round-the-clock, this 24-hour bar is the place in which to enjoy a prodigious choice of vodka inside a chic, dimly-lit environment that resounds to the singalong hits of communist Poland.

Serving classic drinking bites (sour cream and herring, beef tartar, etc.) and an array of expertly fixed cocktails, it’s a spot that promises to become the place to be for a higher class of night owl. If this is gentrification, we’re all for it. (G1) Pl.

Dekant Wine Bar Set inside an attractive open space, the opening of Dekant is a further indication of Powiśle’s shift from hipster epicenter to upscale playground (Robert Lewandowski has been spotted here!). The list comprises over 400 wines from the most prestigious producers in the world, right the way down to tiny, little vineyards you’ve probably never heard of. If the sun is out, aim for a place on their back terrace. (E3) ul. Zajęcza 15, dekant.com.pl Dyletanci Filled with immaculate, modern citizens that drive beamers and jeeps, everyone here looks pretty pleased with themselves – and after a drink, so will you. Aside from the sensational cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk, join the good lookers for an exceptional wine list that includes a hefty offer from Poland (inc. wines from the proprietor’s own label, Dom Bliskowice). (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44, dyletanci.pl

wine bars

Hoża You’ll probably know Hoża as the home of steak. But what is meat without wine? complementing the Argentine-inspired cooking is an expansive wine list particularly dense with reds. (D5) ul. Hoża

Ale Wino!

Without doubt, peak time is the summer when drinkers congregate on a courtyard deck shielded by a sail. But winter ain’t so bad either with this covert wine bar unraveling to reveal a series of little chambers. The wine choice is comprehensive and it’s ably supported by some of the best cooking in the city: chef Sebastian Wełpa is one of Warsaw’s great, golden talents.(E5) ul. Mokotowska 48,

Kieliszki Na Hożej Pointing attention towards small and medium-sized European producers (Italian, in particular), sommelier Paweł Demianiuk has composed a wine list that’s interesting, smart but also comprehensible. Named in a nod to the 1,116 glasses that hang above the bar (we didn’t count, so don’t shoot the messenger), all wines are available by the glass. ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl

Konesera 1

25a, hoza.warszawa.pl

alewino.pl

Bubbles Such is the style of Bubbles it feels like Valentine’s all year round: high on intimacy, it’s a charming ensemble of rickety

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Burakowska 5/7, mielzynski.pl

9, bubbles.com.pl

pardontotu.pl

vodka

serve as the accepted benchmark to which all wine bars aspire. Their cause is amply boosted by a fine selection of bites to accompany the superlative wine offer. Find it in a pared down warehouse that emanates casual city cool. (A1) ul.

Mielżyński Wine Bar Robert Mielżyński, a Canadian-born oenologist, awakened Warsaw’s love affair with the grape when he launched Mielżyński in 2004, and it continues to

Mielzynski Wine Bar Founded in 2004, this ivy-clad warehouse-style enterprise lit the touch paper for Poland’s wine revolution.

Emanating casual city cool, it’s still the yardstick against which all others are measured. It’s a default choice for first dates, and if things go well then walk amid the shelves and pick something for later. (G9) ul. Czerska 12, mielzynski.pl Rusiko Wine Bar Designed to act as a casual extension of the neighboring Rusiko restaurant, this wine bar showcases Warsaw’s biggest selection of Georgian wine inside an interior that feels intimate, jazzy and highly atmospheric. Elaborate rugs, deep rouge in color, hang from tall sapphire walls, while impossibly high ceilings do much to generate a swirl of soft, muffled sound. A place of good mood and organic hospitality, it’s no surprise to learn that the bitey menu is an ample reflection of Rusiko’s award-winning reputation. (E5) Al. Ujazdowskie 22, fb.com/ winebarrusiko

WinKolekcja The selection of New World wines is exceptional, though classicists are also catered for via an extensive choice of Spanish, French and Italian wines.

Their highly recommended restaurant provides further reason to linger inside a design that has the routine look of a club class lounge. (E10) ul. Olkuska 7, winkolekcja.pl

Winsky One of the strongest openings in recent months (on second thoughts, make that the strongest opening in recent months) presents a menu of itsty, teeny plates, a maverick selection of tap wines, top notch whisky, and an interior that’s all restrained velvety opulence. And then there’s the backdrop – nestled on the ground floor of The Tides development, windows face out onto the inky black waters of the river and the sparkling

DO!

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

PAST GLORIES

Despite the name, this store extends its offer beyond just the 60s: “if we like something,” they say, “we don’t look at the birth certificate”. Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece.

Outside the expected assortment of elegant wingback chairs and Nixon sofas, find an array of glassware, ceramics and lighting solutions inside this remarkable Praga store.

Lata 60-te ul. 11 Listopada 54, lata60-te.pl

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Don’t Forget The… Sun Screen

S u m m e r s e e s t h e a p p e a ra n c e o f n u m e r o u s o p e n - a i r c i n e m a s , a l l c o s t i n g z i l c h a n d a l l o f f e r i n g a q u i r k y p r o g ra m b i l l i o n s o f t i m e s b e t t e r t h a n t h e s a m e o l d blockbusters at your nearest mall…

CUDOWNE KINO NAD WISŁĄ Expect: deckchairs, sand, booze, food trucks and the occasional odd river-related whiff.

Highlight: August’s schedule was yet to be determined at press time: check their FB page. Films are planned for every Tues at 8:30 p.m.

(Lolek, Pole Mokotowskie)

FILMOWA STOLICA Expect: locations inc. Royal Wilanów, POLIN, Saski Park, the horseracing track, Kępa Potocka and many more besides.

Highlight: A Fish Called Wanda (Aug 23) John Cleese steals the show in this classic Brit-American, crime / comedy caper.

KINO LETNI NA PLAC EUROPEJSKIM Expect: deckchairs, hammocks and tinkling water features under the soaring form of the Warsaw Spire.

Highlight: Searching For Sugarman (Aug 12) The award-winning story of the hunt for Sixto Rodriguez, a musician that captivated South Africa in the mid-70s before seemingly disappearing into obscurity.

(various locations)

(Pl. Europejski)

(Cuda Nad Wisła, Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej 1)

KINO LETNIE LOLKA Expect: easy access to beer and sausages.

Highlight: The King’s Speech (Aug 8) As the world lurches into WWII, can King George VI overcome a speech impediment to rally the nation!

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KINO W ŁAZIENKACH Expect: films inside Warsaw’s prettiest park? Say no more.

Highlight: The Doors: When You’re Strange (Aug 7).

Johnny Depp narrates the ultimate documentary about the kings of 60s counterculture. (Łazienki Park, Amphitheater)

KINO PERŁA W MIŁOŚCI Expect: a cool courtyard setting and polished food and drinks for a good-looking crowd.

Highlight: so far, none. Check their Facebook to keep up-to-date.

(Miłośc, ul. Kredytowa 9)

KINO POD CHMURKĄ Expect: a charming park setting in the shadow of a

redbrick former gunpowder store.

Highlight: schedule undecided at press time, so check FB for details.

(Prochownia Żoliborz, ul.

Czarnieckiego 51)

U-JAZDOWSKI Expect: mega laidback vibe in front of Ujazdowski castle.

Highlight: plans unreleased at press time.

(Ujazdowski Castle, ul. Jazdów 2)

ZOO MARKET Expect: street food and market stalls to add to the experience. Films begin each Sat at noon.

Highlight: unpublished at press time – yep, check social media.

(Zoo Market, Al. Solidarności 55, opposite bear enclosure)

POKAZYFILMOWE.PL / FILMOWASTOLICA.PL / ADRIAN KRAWCZYK

Do! Outdoor Movies

MEDIA PATRONAGE

Józef Brandt 1841–1915

Sourced from private collections as well as foreign and domestic museums, the N a t i o n a l M u s e u m i n Wa r s a w p r e s e n t s o v e r 3 0 0 w o r k s b y J ó z e f B ra n d t , m a k i n g t h i s the most comprehensive exhibition ever of this artist’s oeuvre…

BOLESŁAW SZAŃKOWSKI, PORTRAIT OF JÓZEF BRANDT

F

amed for his brilliantly dynamic depictions of battle, Brandt’s art suceeds on two levels: first, by sucking viewers into the very heat of combat, and secondly, by stirring their patriotic ardor. Gloriously epic in their scale and detail, it’s therefore fitting that this exhibition was purposefully chosen to coincide with the centenary of Poland’s independence – after all, it was Brandt’s works that gave his contemporaries hope that

the country would once more control its destiny again.

A PICTORIAL GLIMPSE INTO THE PAST In his works, Brandt transports us to a different era, a time when Poland’s armies – led by the likes of Chodkiewicz, Czarniecki and Sobieski – were vanquishing all before them. Fascinated by 17th century history, the artist often traveled to Poland’s old eastern borderlands (Ukraine, Podolia and

the wilds of Zaporizhia), and these trips had a profound impact on his paintings: through experiencing these regions firsthand, Brandt was able to accurately evoke the moody nature of their spirit and landscape.

Though attention will naturally fall on the artist’s most celebrated masterpieces, the exhibition will also thrust to the fore works that have never been seen in public before. Following a chronological order, the large format paintings are complemented by preparatory works such as drawings, oil sketches and photographs; a multi-media presentation devoted to the artist’s lost works complements the exposition.

The first stage of the exhibition includes oil paintings, watercolors and drawings dating from 1856 to 1867.

The earliest works of all are shown alongside pictures created after Brandt began studying at the Munich academy, a ploy that allows viewers to follow the artist’s progress in rendering both movement and the human anatomy.

It is, though, the next seven rooms that present the big ticket paintings that made Brandt famous. Here, visitors can view works painted between 1869 and 1913, among them Czarniecki’s triumph at Kolding and bold panoramas such as The Battle of Vienna and The Battle of Khotyn. Others include skirmishes between smaller bands of soldiers,

with these works doing much to attest to the artist’s profound knowledge of historical realities as well as the costumes and weapons characteristic of the period.

Beyond the battlefield, Brandt captures the exotic, chaotic flavor of country fairs, while two of his more mature works depict the King’s sleigh party in Wilanów and a Prayer on the Steppe. Finally, there’s Bogurodzica (Mother of God) a work loaded with symbolic meaning, almost as if the artist intended to heighten patriotic spirit.

THE MASTER’S ATELIER Brandt’s ‘oriental’ atelier forms a separate part of the exhibition and allows visitors to see the painter’s workplace and his everyday surroundings. Brandt did not only work in his Munich atelier but also used it for representative purposes: it was here that he assembled a collection of military accessories, horse riding gear, clothing, fabrics and various other objects from the 17th to 19th century, which he then used as props for his historical paintings. Another place close to his heart was the palace in Orońsko near Radom, where, amid idyllic scenery, the painter indulged in various social pleasures and set up his second atelier.

The National Museum in Warsaw Al. Jerozolimskie 3 mnw.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Events FESTIVAL Otwarta Ząbkowska

EDITOR’S PICK Warsaw Uprising Anniversary Aug 1

The 74th anniversary of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising will be commemorated by way of numerous services, exhibitions, lectures and screenings throughout the month.

It’s August 1 that will be the most poignant day, with events including a ceremonial changing of the guard at noon in front of the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier, the traditional singing of songs banned under the Nazis at 8 p.m. on Pl. Piłsudskiego, and the 9 p.m. lighting of bonfires on the Uprising Mound on ul. Bartycka. Warsaw will pause for a minute’s silence at 5 p.m. to mark the outbreak of the battle.

For info, see: 1944.pl

SKATING Night Skating

2 & 30 Aug Join thousands of roller bladers as they skate about Warsaw following a 18km route. Starting at 21:00, usually by the Copernicus Monument on Krakowskie Przedmieście, the mass skate usually concludes at round about 23:00.

For details see: nightskating. waw.pl

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Aug 4-5 & 24-31 @ ul.

Ząbkowska Colorful, energetic and audaciously eccentric, this street festival sees Ząbkowska, Praga’s spiritual gateway, closed to traffic and transformed courtesy of outbreaks of street yoga, cooking workshops, live gigs, literary readings and vintage vinyl markets. And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

For further info, see: otwartazabkowska.pl

Cycling Critical Mass: Uprising Edition

Aug 4, 17:00 @ Park Wolności, Rising Museum This group bike ride is expected to attract thousands of participants, with swathes of the capital temporarily blocked as cyclists follow a root inspired by the efforts of the Miłosz and Ruczaj battalions that fought in the 1944 Warsaw Uprising.

To register, see: 1944.pl

FESTIVAL Jazz in the Old Town

Every Sat, 19:00 @ Pl. Zamkowy Running each Saturday throughout the summer, the 23rd edition of Jazz in the Old Town will bring together a number of international artists to perform for free in the Rynek and Pl. Zamkowy. Attracting audiences of up to 4,000 people, artists booked for August include the Krzysztof Kobyliński Pearls, the Richard Galliano New Jazz Musette Quartet, EABS feat. Adam Bałdych and the Bireli Lagrene Quartet.

For further info, see: jazznastarowce.pl Free admission

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

CONCERT Chopin in the Park

Every Sunday, 12:00 & 16:00 @ Chopin Statue, Łazienki Park Listen to some of Poland’s top talents – young and old – recite works from Chopin’s oeuvre in the rose-fringed gardens of Łazienki Park.

The Sunday concerts run each summer and attract crowds of hundreds.

CONCERT Ed Sheeran

Aug 11-12 @ National Stadium, ul. Poniatowskiego 1 Woo! Not just one, but two evenings with everyone’s favorite all-round ginger nice guy. Sheeran’s Warsaw performance(s) will wrap-up the European leg of his global Divide tour and is expected to sell-out fast.

Tickets @ eventim.pl

FOOD Artisan Ice Cream Fair

Aug 11-12 @ Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej Running from noon until 7 p.m., join Warsaw’s top artisanal ice cream producers for an afternoon of ultimate chilldown. Hosted by Pomost 511 and Cuda Nad Wisłą, anticipate a number of other food stalls and trucks to also be present.

Admission free

PARADE Historical Parade

Aug 15, 15:00 @ various locations Forming part of the city’s celebrations of 100 years of Polish independence, hundreds of military reenactors will parade through the streets of Warsaw in homage to the various risings and rebellions that have occurred throughout the history of the nation.

Route details were unknown

at press time: for further info, search for Defilada Historyczna 2018 closer to the time.

FOOD Indian Food Festival

Aug 18-19 @ Bulwar Flotylli Wiślanej Beginning at noon, the third edition of the Indian Food Festival will feature numerous stalls from Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, cookery workshops, a food and clothes market as well as traditional games, music and other such attractions.

Admission free

FOOD Food Truck Championships

Aug 18-19 @ PGE Naradowy, Al. Poniatowskiego 1 The fifth annual food truck championships is expected to attract in excess of a hundred mobile vendors who will descend on the National Stadium to battle it out for the honor of being voted Poland’s top food truck. The event will also decide on Poland’s top burger, a title currently held by the Kill Grill Burger & Sandwich Bar since 2016 – can they make it three top finishes in a row?

FOOD Fine Dining Week

29 Aug till 9 Sep @ various locations The latest edition of ‘fine dining week’ aims to showcase the higher end of the capital’s restaurant scene: for zł. 119 diners will be able to enjoy a tailor-made 5-course tasting menu at a number of upmarket restaurants. The final line-up of participating restaurants had yet to be announced, so keep an eye on their website / facebook for further details.

For more info, see: finediningweek.pl

HANA’S SUITCASE

FESTIVAL 15th Singer Festival of Jewish Culture August 25 to September 2

F

rom modest beginnings in 2004, Warsaw’s annual Singer festival has established itself as one of Europe’s best-known festivals of Jewish culture. Expected to attract over 40,000 people, in excess of 200 events have been planned over a nine-day period, including screenings, guided walks, discussions, cookery workshops, literary meetings and concerts. “Our Festival,” says founder and artistic director Gołda Tencer, “is a bridge connecting tradition and modernity; we are not afraid of daring artistic projects and we welcome uncompromising, open artists – that, after all, is Singer’s Warsaw.” Though the action will be spread across Warsaw, the spotlight, as ever, will fall on Próżna, Pl. Grzybowski and the Nożyk Synagogue. Featuring an open-air market and outdoor stage, it’s round these parts that the spirit of the festival truly reveals itself: no matter what the weather might have up its sleeve, the final night is a party to remember.

Theater

Inexorably linked with theater, the festival’s program will include a performance of Only Fools Never Get Sad by Israel’s Yiddishpiel Theater, as well as an adaptation of Isaac Singer’s Gimpel The Fool by the Nephesh Group. Warsaw’s own Jewish Theater will be presenting shows such as Ida Kamińska, The Last Son, Itzik’s Midrash and A Few Foreign Words in Polish.

Music

Inaugurating the festival will be cantors Yaakov and Shulem Lemmer from the US, and they’ll be joined inside the Nożyk Synagogue by the Kolot Israel Choir. The finale, meanwhile, will see violinist Ara Malikian take to the stage to blend Jewish, Arabic, Argentinean and Roma sounds to present his interpretations of Hendrix, Bowie and Zeppelin, as well as classical masterpieces by Mozart, Vivaldi and Paganini. In between these bookends, highlights will include performances by French violinist Dominique Pifarél, legendary jazz act Młynarski-Masecki, and Tokyo-based Jinta-la-Mvta who will be mixing ‘Tokyo street sounds’ with traditional Klezmer and Balkan music.

For further info and schedule, see: festiwalsingera.pl

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DO! Museums POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

Copernicus Science Centre Featuring hundreds of interactive exhibitions, it’s a place that allows young and old alike to blast objects into space, experience an earthquake or steer exploratory robots. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20, kopernik.org.pl

CSW Situated in a baroque-style castle the center hosts artists from all over the world.

The on-site bookshop is of particular interest for artists and intellectuals. ul. Jazdów 2, csw.art.pl

Dom Spotkań z Historią The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’

ethnomuseum.pl

Fotoplastikon Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51, fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

Fryderyk Chopin Museum The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are enchanting, but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

ul. Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

Ethnographic Museum Considerably revamped to meet the demands and attention-spans of the 21st century sightseer, the Ethnographic Museum is a visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. ul. Kredytowa 1,

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The Heritage Interpretation Center This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul.

Brzozowa 11-13, mhw.pl

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NEON MUSEUM

Jewish Historical Institute Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

young owner, the museum is split into a few different sections: one devoted to state and subversive literature, and another that recreates an empty store typical of the times. Our highlight, though, is the recreation of a commie-era apartment. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Glucha (opposite Soho Factory), adventurewarsaw.com

Katyń Museum This museum commemorates the murder of 21,000 Polish officers by the Soviets in the spring of 1940. Beyond its quite staggering architectural merit, the museum has done a stunning job of collecting and presenting artifacts relating to the slaughter. ul.

Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl

Marie Skłodowska-Curie Musuem Reopened after a significant re-haul, this museum celebrates the groundbreaking scientist that discovered polonium. The Curie-osities include lab equipment, her trademark black dress and even her nail file. ul. Freta 16, en.muzeum-msc.pl

Museum of Communist Life Lovingly assembled by its

Museum of Praga The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

Museum of Warsaw Over 8,000 objects detail the story of Warsaw, and these include peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art.

Cohesive and comprehensive yet never too overwhelming, the trail climaxes with

DO! Museums F RY D E RY K C H O P I N M U S E U M

vertiginous views of the Rynek below. Unmissable.

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

National Museum Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.

Pawiak What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna

Factory), neonmuzeum.org

Palmiry National Memorial Museum An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation.

The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw.

Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

supplement, and its gradual acceptance into mainstream society. Highlights include a motherlode of vintage bottles and an interactive chamber in which visitors can test their alcohol knowledge, learn about salutation customs and strap-on goggles to see the disorienting effects of overconsumption. Pl. Konesera 1,

Polin Composed of eight galleries, each covers a different stage of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. Named the European Museum of the Year in 2016. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

Polish Vodka Museum Documenting the nation’s 600-year-old love affair with the tipple, visits kick-off in earnest with displays that trace the origins of the drink, its early beginnings as a medicinal

Exhibits range from a full-size replica of a Liberator plane, to a sewer beneath the cinema screen and a slice of bread preserved from 1944.

And don’t miss the ‘City of Ruins’, a five minute 3D film which takes you on an aerial journey over devastated Warsaw. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

24/26

art.pl

The Neon Museum Filled with salvaged signage, this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital. The emphasis is firmly on the PRL era, a time when the nation’s best graphic designers were nutty for neon. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho

M U S E U M O F WA R S AW

The Royal Castle in Warsaw Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings

by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

Wola Museum What was once a dreary old place has been rebooted as a smart communityminded museum and one of the most forward-thinking institutions in the capital.

Bringing the wider area of Wola alive, find engaging content that’s creatively presented: posters, family memorabilia and various media relating to the area. ul.

Srebrna 12, mhw.pl

The Warsaw Amber Museum Part of Bursztynek, a dedicated amber shop, has been turned into a curious museum detailing the history of amber. Rynek Starego Miasta 4/6, bursztynek.co

Warsaw Rising Museum Cope with the crowds to discover the definitive story of the 1944 Uprising in town.

Zachęta National Art Gallery Regarded as one of Poland’s most prestigious galleries, the Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Education preschools American School of Warsaw American School of Warsaw provides a rich, meaningful and balanced educational experience through age-appropriate activities to students aged 3 to 5. For further information

and/or to visit our school, contact:admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

The British Primary School of Wilanรณw Following the National Curriculum of England

and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

Summer School Join us!

Casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School invites all children for a special summer program from July 2nd to August 3rd:

English speaking environment Montessori curriculum Field trips Special visitors Art Cooking Gardening Animals Nature and much more!

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dฤ browskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul.

Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

warsaw montessori family

Accepting applications for children from To join our summer program please 2-5 (Casa program) and 6-12 (Elementary contact: tel. +48 692 099 134 program) office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl Location: Casa dei Bambini, Badowska 19 (behind building Sielecka 52)

www.wmf.edu.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Warsaw Montessori and Casa dei Bambini have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotรณw and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 2 1/2 to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotรณw), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16

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Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

DO! Education (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob.

692 099 134, warsawmontessori. edu.pl

International School of Warsaw The ISW offers education for children aged from 3 to 18-years-old. The school campus is set amid picturesque countryside near Piaseczno and provides a holistic education that combines a high quality curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate program with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as the main language.

The ISW is the only school in Poland accredited by the

European Union. ul. Mazowiecka 43, www.isw.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25,

tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/ saint-exupery.pl

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old.

For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse. com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Happy Montessori House The Happy Montessori House

offers part-time and full-time places for children aged between 2 to 6 years, as well as toddler-focused activities (from 18 months to 3 years) centered around movement, sensorial stimulation, storytelling, singing and socializing.

Warsaw Montessori Pre-school, ul. Rumiana 14, tel. 22 423 50 75, mob. 697 060 504, hmh.com.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two

Celebrating

25 years of

British Education in Warsaw

www.thebritishschool.pl

warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Education classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty

schools

Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel.

531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Montessori Academy for International Children An English-speaking pre-school (16 months to 6 years of age) with two locations. The school’s policy is to comply with Montessori standards, using the Montessori Method in English.

The school’s philosophy is based on the joy of learning, which comes from discovering and furthering the individual development of each child. ul.

Królewicza Jakuba 36 (Wilanów), ul. Sadowa 4 (Konstancin), Open 8:00-16:45, tel. 502 315 022, montessoriacademy.eu

American School of Warsaw ASW is a premier collegepreparatory international school that offers a PK-12 curriculum, including the IB Diploma Program in Grades 11 and 12. Students are inspired and challenged every day by experienced and dedicated teachers, who provide enriching learning opportunities in a world class facility. For further information contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00. ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel. 22 702 85 00, aswarsaw.org

100 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

The British Primary School of Wilanów Following the National Curriculum of England and Wales, this is the first School in Poland subject to the inspection of the UK Independent School Inspectorate. Pupils receive British and, upon request, Polish reports/ diplomas. The school follows a closed admissions policy and limits enrollment of one nationality to below 50% of each class starting from Year 1. ul. Hlonda 12, bsww.pl

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The cur-

riculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School (multiple locations) Warsaw Montessori School Guided by trained specialists, students will be responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses,

DO! Education caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet life’s real challenges. ul. Badowska 19 (Mokotów), tel. 22 851 6893; ul. Szkolna 16 (Izabelin), tel. 22 721 8736, mob. 692 099 134, warsawmontessori.edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support.

International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadian-

school.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community.

Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

International School of Warsaw The International School of Warsaw offers education for children from 3 to 18-years old. ISW provides a holistic education that combines a high quality interna-

tional curriculum based on the International Baccalaureate with extra scholarly activities such as outdoor classes, robotics or STEAM. Lessons are conducted in English or French as main a language.

Additionally, students can choose foreign language classes in Polish, Spanish, German, Chinese, Russian, or French. ISW is the only school in Poland accredited by the European Union. ul. Mazowiecka 43, isw.edu.pl

tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnet is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fullyqualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fillimmersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

adult learning

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16,

polishonlinenow.com

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs.

Also home/company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com cupofpolish.com

Edu & More Polish Language School incorporating modern teaching methods and reasonable prices. ul. Nowogrodzka 44 / 7,

warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Health & Beauty golf Centrum Golf Fulfill the dream of playing at Pebble Beach or Torrey Pines by booking a tee-time on one of Centrum Golf’s HD golf simulators. Added benefits include instant analysis and data to improve your game. ul.

Burakowska 15, centrumgolf.pl

First Warsaw Golf & Country Club Features a par 72, 18-hole championships golf course, all year driving range, luxurious club house and a stunning environment replete with gliding swans and bouncing bunnies! The final hole, set on an island, attracts golfers from across Poland and beyond. ul.

gyms

Exuma Gym Warsaw’s latest luxury gym features equipment by Life Fitness and Hammer Strength, a wellness zone, private parking and stunning views of the National Stadium across the river. ul. Wioślarska 10, exumagym.com

Holmes Place Energy High standard equipment, personal training and group classes. Six month membership available for approx. zł.

200 per month, though prices are subject to change. Al. Jana

Golfowa (Jabłonna), firstwarsawgolf.com

Pawła II 82 (C.H. Arkadia), ul.

Wołoska 12 (Galeria Mokotów), holmesplace.pl

Golf Parks Poland Keen golfers (all ages) can perfect their swing at this friendly, well equipped driving range, whilst beginners can opt for professional individual lessons or beginner group programs in English or Polish.

Located in Wilanów. ul. Vogla 19,

Holmes Place Premium Three ‘premium locations’, with the Hilton and Regent branches housing a 25-meter pool. Sauna and steam room facilities are available in all all three, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Belwederska 23

golfparkspoland.pl

(Regent Hotel), ul. Grzybowska 63

102 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

(Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructorto-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl

McFit A 2,000 sq/m studio that utilizes the latest technology as well as ‘cyber training’ programs. Open 24/7, with membership from zł. 89 per month. ul. Świętokrzyska 3 (corner of Nowy Świat), mcfit.com

Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-ofthe-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul.

Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes. The view from the highest pool in Europe

offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the membership fee alone.

Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview. com.pl

dental clinics ArtDental Well-known among expats, ArtDental’s service is widely praised for its honest service and moderate prices. English speaking and moderately priced. ul. Łucka 18, artdental.pl Aster Med Aster Med, while billing itself as a center of orthodontics and implantology, is really the full service with 14 dentists and 4 orthodontists and implant surgeons. ul. Św.

Bonifacego 92, astermed.pl

DeClinic Among other innovations DeClinic have swapped the traditional drilling process in favor of abrasive sandblaster – perfect for kids or those afraid of the dentist. ul. Bernardyńska 16A, declinic.pl

DO! Health & Beauty spas & salons

women among the variety of beauty offers. Al. Ujazdowskie

Clochee Natural, organic cosmetic brand that’s been dubbed a ‘pro-health project for your body and soul’. Using only certified ingredients, Clochee’s beauty products bring you closer to nature. Newlylaunched, their flagship store also houses a top-notch spa facilities. ul. Nowolipki 13, spa.

18/11, retrodayspa.pl

clochee.com/spa

ouch!

DEPILACJA WOSKIEM

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl

PARDON MY FRENCH

manicure pedicure

Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul.

Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul. Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicureplace.pl

Retro Day Spa Royally indulgent interiors hark back to a different century, though the treatments are all hi-tech and include packages for pregnant

Sante The dry and wet steam room left the Insider impressed, but not as much as the ‘mood rooms’ – imagine a lunar landscape chamber with a salt-covered floor. The other, meanwhile, comes clad in minerals with recliners hewn from heated tiles. ul.

yoga & pilates Astanga Yoga Studio Established in 2005, this studio specializes in ashtanga and also offers physiotherapy, Hawaiian massage, reflexology and kalari chikitsa. ul.

Diamond Pilates The first professional Pilates studio in Poland continues to be the pacesetter. Offers group and individual training, the latest equipment, dietary consultations and workshops for instructors. ul. Powsińska

Gałczyńskiego 4, astanga.pl

106, diamondpilates.pl

Jagiellońska 55A, studiosante.pl

You & You Maciej Wróblewski Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of. ul.

Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), youandyou.eu

sport Fly Spot Ever wanted to know what it’s like to fly? As in really fly??

Find out inside a vertical wind tunnel where fans whirring at a speed of up to 310 km/hr will send you shooting up in the air. Wspólna Droga 1 (Mory), flyspot.com

Hangar 646 Hangar 646 touts 50 interlinked trampolines, a ping pong zone, ball pools and even a snowboard slide where visitors hurtle down a ramp before splashing down on an inflatable mattress. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 646, hangar646.pl

Stacja Grawitacja Set over 3,200 sq/m of space, this indoor trampoline extravaganza sends visitors bouncing down ‘ninja obstacle courses’, sky slamming basketball hoops and jumping around engaged in dodgeball shenanigans. ul. Bohaterów

DEMYSTIFYING VODKA & BEER

T

he heat is on! With temperatures soaring into their 30s, what better way to cool down than with a freezing cold beer? But while you do so, maybe ponder this: the old Slavic word piwo simply meant ‘something to drink’ (coś do picia). Over time, it’s meaning was narrowed down and by the Middle Ages it specifically referred to alcohol that was made using wheat or hops (i.e. beer). Produced in monasteries and court-appointed breweries, for a long time it was considered much healthier and safer than water – logical, considering that the fermentation process killed off dangerous bacteria.

On colder days, a better option is vodka. Until the 17th century (and even today in certain dialects), wódka was a diminutive of the word woda, with the word also meaning ‘gargle’ as well as a scented perfume. Curiously, it also meant ‘abstainer’, as in a person who abstained from drinking alcohol.

High-grade alcohol – or what we now call vodka – was called okowita, which was the Polish version of the Latin aqua vitae, or gorzałka, as the alcohol was cooked over a fire (the old Slavic goreć meant burn and is today still visible in the Polish word for hot: gorący). With this in mind, on gorące dni (hot days), I’d advise against getting too burnt from vodka and instead to cool down with a zimne piwo (cold beer).

by Dagmara Sobiecka, cupofpolish.com

Września 12, stacjagrawitacja.pl warsawinsider.pl

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DO! Shopping Listings fashion Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul.

Mokotowska 61

Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. ul. Mokotowska 64 (Plac Trzech Krzyży), balthazar.pl

Cafardini Complete suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric. Using the finest natural raw materials, Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively. ul. Grzybowska 5A, cafardini.com

Chiara A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander. ul. Mokotowska 49 & Pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl

Chrum Amid a quirky design that mimics a butcher’s store, find a cult collection of tees and hoodies emblazoned with playful slogans and punchy graphics. Showcasing the fun side of Polski design, Chrum caters to customers who enjoy their fashion with a pinch of humor. ul. Dobra 53, chrum.com di Trevi Boutique Aimed at both him and her, di Trevi present the freshest Italian footwear releases from prestige brands such as Ballin and Loriblu. Handbags are also available inside a chic

interior that exudes luxury. ul.

evening wear. ul. Mokotowska

Piękna 11A, ditrevi.pl

61, justpaul.pl

Dream Nation Founded in 2011, Dream Nation is a label committed to sustainable fashion. Find colorful dresses and original prints spruced up by the designer’s wild, personal twist.

All garments are made using organic cotton. ul. Kopernika

L’Aura L’Aura is the only place in the city where you can find unique pieces from the likes of Hussein Chalayan, Dries Van Noten and Veronique Branquinho. ul.

8/18, dreamnation.pl

EM Cashmere Boutique Available brands include Allude Cashmere, Annette Görtz, Studiorundholz and Sarah Pacini with 30-40% discounts on last year’s collections, and up to 70% on those of previous years. ul. Szczygla 8,

Mokotowska 26

Likus Concept Store The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw. The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Stone Island, Sophia Kokosalaki and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac), likusconceptstore.pl

emcashmere.pl

Femi Stories Aimed at the young, active woman of today, Femi Pleasure’s dynamic range of clothing is both urban and outdoorsy. ‘Unique design, quality and comfort’ are the sacred three pillars upon which their philosophy is built.

Lolly Pop Boutique Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep. lollypop.pl Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1), lollypop.pl

ul. Browarna 4, femistories.com

Hamper’s Bay Fit out and fit into the local scene by stocking up on clothes from this Powiśle staple. Brands include Komono, Dynomighty, Uggly, Happy Socks and Wemoto.

No-one knows why, or too whom, but they also sell surfboards. ul. Dobra 11,

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Paul Andrew, Jonathan Simkhai, and Markus Lupfer, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul.

hampersbay.com

Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Moncler, One Teaspoon, Simonetta Ravizza, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. ul.

Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist.

Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit. Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands include: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Dsquared 2, Christian Louboutin, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Kotur, Moncler, Mr& Mrs Italy, One Teaspoon, Ralph Lauren, Simonetta Ravizza, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon. Childrenswear: Burberry Children, Dsquared2 Kids, Kenzo Kids, Moncler Kids, Ralph Lauren Kids, Tod’s Kids.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Ptasia 6 A unique ladies concept store showcasing the works of both emerging and established independent Polish fashion labels such as Eva Grygo, Confashion, Horror! Horror!, Kasia Miciak and Polanka. ul.

Ptasia 6, ptasia6.pl

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly

104 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands include: Alexandre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Anya Hindmarch, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Jimmy Choo, Kenzo, Kotur, Maison Michel,

QπШ - Robert Kupisz One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. ul.

Mokotowska 48/204 (courtyard), robertkupisz.com

Redford and Grant This multi-brand fashion

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DO! Shopping Listings store offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers such as Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada. Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, redfordandgrant.pl

Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul.

Burakowska 5/7

Safripsti Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul.

collection includes the latest lines from Joseph, Diane Von Furstenberg, Daniela De Marchi and many others besides. Scented interiors and expert service (who know how to brew a coffee) make it the ideal place in which to browse the afternoon the away. ul.

Mokotowska 51/53, seeme.com.pl

Snobissimo ul. Mokotowska 28 Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc.

With shoes and accessories all provided for, it’s a one-stop shop to re-boot your wardrobe.

Teresa Rosati Al. Witosa 31 (Panorama), teresarosati.com.pl Elegant cocktail

dresses, gowns for special occasions and beautiful fabrics from one of Poland’s best-known designers. Readyto-wear and custom-made services at discreet location in Sadyba by appointment.

natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul.

Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear. com

Wearso.organic If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you. Designers use only natural materials. Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home. ul.

Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com

Zaremba Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898.

Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. ul. Nowogrodzka 15, zarembakrawiec.pl

home

Coqlila Home products with a marked provincial French style. Among the offer are fabrics, fragrances, furniture and kitchenware. ul. Lentza 20 (Wilanów), coqlila.pl

Dado Design ‘Beauty, modernity and functionality’. It’s on these foundations Dado’s philosophy is built. Touting brands such as Bruhl, Gaber, Slide and Infiniti, this design store carries pieces chosen for their style and originality. Find it all from sofas and tables to picture frames and salt shakers. ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), dadodesign.pl

Długa Showroom Decorative plaster materials from Novacolor and porcelain from Visa Alegre (the official china of the White House and Buckingham Palace) are a couple of reasons to go here for spending. ul. Długa 8/14, dlugashowroom.pl

Transparent Shopping Collective Looking to reinterpret classic fashions whilst favoring proportional cuts, simplicity and high-quality natural fabrics, the Transparent Shopping Collective’s stated mission is ‘to return to accuracy and refinement’. ul. Mysia 3 (second

Apteka Sztuki Apteka Sztuki is an art gallery that features collections by up-and-coming contemporary artists, preferring promising unknowns to big names.

The exhibits, which rotate on a monthly basis, include a variety of media created by artists from all over Europe. Al.

floor)

Wyzwolenia 3/5

Viola Śpiechowicz Inspiring, unpretentious and highly creative, Viola Śpiechowicz reinvisions what it means to be feminine by giving classic styles a progressive edge – choose from limited pret a porter collection and exclusive haute couture creations. ul. Chopina

Bo Concept Lovely, clean lines make this one of the best places to invest in good furniture and statement accessories for the home. ul. Woronicza 31,

Oleandrów 3

5B, violaspiechowicz.com

See Me Boutique Regarded as one of the stalwart boutiques of Mokotowska, See Me’s

Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring

106 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

Galeria 2 Deco A small yet concise collection of brilliant home furnishings that combine the classic with contemporary at fair prices.

Special orders and consulting also available. ul. Wilcza 71 Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60, lepukka.pl

Cotton Ball Lights Offering 40 different varieties and colors of cotton-wrapped bulbs, these simple lights stand to transform your living space with their soft, gentle glow. ul. Chmielna 27/31,

Magazyn Praga A visit to this home design store is guaranteed to transform your apartment.

Showcasing emerging Polish talent, the items here are not without humor: ceramic French bulldogs are particularly popular. ul. Mińska

cottonballlights.pl

25 (Soho Factory)

boconcept.com

General Listings 5-Star Hotels

tel. 22 255 9590, raffles.com/ warsaw

(from 10 a.m. to 11p.m.), between-us.eu

Regent Warsaw Hotel

Boutique B&B

ul. Belwederska 23, tel. 22 558 1234, regent-warsaw.com

ul. Smolna 14/6, tel. 22 829 4800, bedandbreakfast.pl

Bellotto ul. Senatorska 13/15, tel. 22 829 6444, hotelbellotto.pl

Express Relocations ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

Euro Move International Movers ul. Kineskopowa 1, euromove.pl

Bristol Hotel

The Rialto Boutique Hotel

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44, tel. 22 551 1000, hotelbristolwarsaw.pl

ul. Wilcza 73, tel. 22 584 8700, rialto.pl

H15 Boutique ul. Poznańska 15, tel. 22 553 8700, info@h15ab.com, h15ab.com

car rental

Sheraton

Avis

ul. Prusa 2, tel. 22 450 6100, sheraton.pl

Radisson Blu Centrum Hotel

Fredrick Chopin Airport, tel. 22 650 4872, Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), tel. 22 575 6583, avis.pl

ul. Grzybowska 24, tel. 22 321 8888, radissonblu.com

Hertz Rent a Car

Hilton Warsaw

Okęcie Airport, ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 2896; mob. 691 411 130. ul. Nowogrodzka 27, tel. 22 621 1360.

ul. Grzybowska 63, tel. 22 356 5555 / 800 44 11 482, hilton.com

InterContinental

Sofitel Warsaw Victoria

ul. Emilii Plater 49, tel. 22 328 8888, warsaw.intercontinental.com

ul. Królewska 11, tel. 22 657 8011, sofitel-victoria-warsaw.com

Mamaison Le Régina Hotel

Westin

ul. Kościelna 12, tel. 22 531 6000, mamaison.com

Al. Jana Pawła II 21, tel. 22 450 8000, westin.pl

relocation companies AGS Warsaw

Marriott Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 6306, warsawmarriott.com

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

B&B

CorstJens Worldwide Movers Raffles Europejski Warsaw

Between Us Bed & Breakfast

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13,

ul. Bracka 20, tel. 22 8285417

ul. Nowa 23, Stara Iwiczna, corstjens.com

Interdean International ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel.

22 701 7171, interdean.com

Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. Check their website for more details. ul. Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

Relo Planet International, domestic and office removals, corporate and individual relocations, fine art shipping, storage, insurance, as well as a full range of assistance services (immigration, etc.). ul. Batalinou Platerówek 3, reloplanet.com

w W a r s a www.city-tour.com.pl

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Traveling over the course of approximately 1,5 hour, a double-decker bus will take you past many beautiful and interesting places of Warsaw, such as its interesting districts, palaces and churches, monuments and museums, parks and historical cemeteries, as well as the Jewish historical sites.

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108 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

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Warsaw Guide

THE ESSENTIALS...

Cut through the chaff and time manage your visit as effectively as possible.

T H E Z AC H Ę TA

Spotkań z Historią, a small exhibition space that specializes in quirky photo exhibits that explore Warsaw’s past – though subject matter varies to cover differing chapters of the city’s history, the PRL era receives the lion’s share of attention.

MODERN WARSAW

THE OLD…

The Old Town, raised from the rubble after WWII, is symbolic of this ‘phoenix city’, and fully deserving of its UNESCO listed status. The Royal Castle is a maze of fancy chambers and important paintings by the likes of Rembrandt and Canaletto, while the Museum of Warsaw offers a peerless peek into the complexities of Warsaw’s story. To soak in the extravagances of Poland’s imperial years, then Łazienki Park is essential, as is a visit to the Wilanów Palace: frequently nicknamed ‘the Polish Versailles’, the landscaped gardens are as unmissable as the former royal chambers. Finally, tap into the very essence of the Polish soul by visiting the new Polish Vodka Museum on the right side of town.

WWII

Memories of WWII still hang heavy.

Learn about the 1944 Warsaw Uprising at The Rising Museum: it’s deservedly rated as among the most important cultural institutions in the country, though expected it to be even more packed than usual this August as the city gathers to commemorate the 74th anniversary of the insurgency. Lesser known, the Old Town’s ‘Heritage Centre’ documents the destruction of the city, while three separate museums, Pawiak, Szucha and Katyń, cover

equally somber chapters in Poland’s dark history.

JEWISH WARSAW

Though largely flattened, the former Jewish Ghetto contains numerous memorials, among them the Umschlagplatz monument marking the spot where trains departed for the gas chambers of Treblinka. The one synagogue that survived (Twarda 6) is the center of local Jewish life, while the innovative Polin museum covers all aspects of this nation’s complex and often fraught Jewish history.

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COMMUNISM

A full tour of Stalin’s Palace of Culture is a must: the basements (protected from rodents by a team of feline guardians) are wild and the viewing terrace unimpeachable. Check the more ambient side to Communism in the Neon Museum and then pencil in a visit The Museum of Life Under Communism: it’s tiny, but humorous, eccentric and highly informative.

While you’re there, squeeze into a knackered militia wagon and take one of their commie-themed tours.

Equally weird, check out a former nuclear bunker by visiting the once top secret Obiekt Alfa (obiektalfa.pl).

Lastly, take a look at what’s on at Dom

Wonder amid romping kids and whirring machines in the Copernicus Science Centre and after, visit the university library to explore the stunning rooftop garden – it’s like something from another cosmos. The Museum of Modern Art is a short walk away while across the water, the stateof-the-art National Stadium conducts regular tours and thrills both stadium nerds and football fans alike. Back to Warsaw’s left bank, and the fountain park between the river and the Old Town impresses with its dazzling weekend light shows.

ART

Serious art lovers flock to the National Museum for its determined presentation of art through the ages. The Zachęta, the Modern Art Museum and CSW are more alternative with captivating exhibitions that excite non-conformists. That said, some of the city’s best art is found on its walls: Praga and Muranów are particularly known for their large format wall murals.

PEOPLE

The watchful shadow of Chopin, the city’s favorite son, looms large across Warsaw: the museum dedicated to his memory amazes by the breadth of its scope, while the Chopin concerts held each Sunday in Łazienki are a local rite of passage. If you’ve got time (and even if you haven’t), a day trip to his birthplace in Żelazowa Wola is a rewarding experience, not least in summer when the gardens are ripe for exploration.

Onto other local greats, the Marie Curie Museum in New Town does a splendid job of remembering the world’s most famous female science boffin. warsawinsider.pl

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Insider Finds

WHAT’S IN A SYMBOL… Every bit as pervasive as the mermaid, the kotwica (anchor) symbol has become an ingrained part of Warsaw’s culture: seen on everything from memorials and buildings to football banners and tattoos, it was born in 1942 as an amalgamation of the letters P and W. But why? Stemming from a phrase coined by the minor sabotage branch of the Home Army’s Wawer battalion, the initials stood for Pomścimy Wawer (“We shall avenge Wawer”), in reference to the Wawer Massacre, one of the first large scale atrocities committed in occupied Poland. Soon, though, a new meaning was assigned to the letters, Polska Walcząca (“Fighting Poland”), and the initials became so synonymous with anti-Nazi graffiti that a secret competition was organized to find a consistent logo that could be daubed onto walls as an identifying tag. Joining the P and W together to form an anchor shape, a 23-year-old art student named Anna Smoleńska won the contest; within less than a year she was dead, another statistic of the Auschwitz death machine. Adopted not just by the Home Army, but also the anti-Communist movements of the 80s, her legacy was the creation of the definitive symbol of Polish resistance.

112 Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2018

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

The story behind Warsaw’s kotwica…