Warsaw Insider April 2020 #284

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APRIL 2020

284

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04/2020

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AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO KIINI MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK MARC JACOBS NANUSHKA ONETEASPOON SELF-PORTRAIT TOD’S SOPHIA WEBSTER TORY BURCH VICTORIA BECKHAM ZIMMERMANN

Moliera 2

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editorial INFRONT

Editor-in-chief Alex Webber

5 Covid-19

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Art Director Kevin Demaria insider@warsawinsider.pl

FEATURES

EAT!

25 First Bite:

Gringo Bar 26 Food Delivery

Complete guide

DRINK! 53 First Sips:

Cophi 54 Cafes

In times of Covid-19

DISCOVER 61 Art:

Jakub Różalski 64 History:

Warsaw Ghetto Uprising 66 Culture:

Zachęta Online 76 Museums 80 Essentials 78 Map 80 Last Word

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com Contributors: Michał Miszkurka Ed Wight Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com ey Account Manager K Aleksandra Seweryn aseweryn@valkea.com

W

ell, March didn’t quite go to plan, did it? If usually this foreword serves as a platform for banal musings, this time around I’ve got a pandemic to talk about – I didn’t expect that, but then neither did the rest of the country, so it seems. Sure, we all knew that some geezer had eaten a bat out in China, but did anyone anticipate the consequences to reach as far as here? The events that have followed have been extraordinary, and as we stare into the deep unknown it is with a shaky trepidation that suggests that things will never be the same.

Certainly, the anxiety is palpable, and not just in the hospitals, cabinet departments and corporate boardrooms, but also the bars and restaurants and other such settings that concern the Insider. At least, it would be if they were open. Though wisely closed to stem the spread of Covid-19, the long-term effects could prove catastrophic to a food and drink sector built by little people with big ambitions – never before has it been more crucial to think local and lend them your support. Unsurprisingly, it is to them that this skeleton issue is dedicated, and if there is one thing that we can take heart from, let it be the kindness and togetherness that we have witnessed in spades. Long may it continue.

Stay healthy, be good, keep positive – see you next time.

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

on the cover Not all heroes wear capes – doing a vital job in propping up the restaurant industry have been the delivery boys of Warsaw. Hat’s off to them all! (Illustration by Michał Miszkurka)

ey Account Manager K Karolina Zielonka kzielonka@valkea.com Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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6 Photography Kamil Leczkowski 8 Stay Insider!

Our picks for reading, watching and listening at home 14 Interview Paweł Leszcyński of the Warsaw Beer Festival 16 Interview Chef Aleksander Baron 19 Charity Meals on wheels 20 At Home Trisno Hamid

APRIL 2020

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. 3/4 Pl. Trzech Krzyzy tel.: 226221416, www.PlacTrzechKrzyzy.com

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

in the

NEWS

PANDEMIC

SHUTTERSTOCK

Going Viral

With Poland’s first case of Covid-19 confirmed on March 4th, it didn’t take long for the virus to spread across the nation. For their part, the government moved fast to outlaw mass gatherings, close schools and shut borders.

Bafflingly, the response of the church was more muddied with some priests actively encouraging crowds to gather for mass and others claiming that Holy Water would be enough to keep the virus at bay.

Despite the measures that had been enacted, March 24th witnessed a further tightening of restrictions with a ban placed on gatherings of over two people (or five

in the case of religious ceremonies such as funerals).

Furthermore, the public were warned not to leave home unless it was in order to visit shops or pharmacies, travel to work, care for relatives or keep a medical appointment.

In addition, jogging, cycling and walking the dog were also permitted. Enforced by the police and the army, penalties for breaking the new laws were set at up to zł. 5,000 for violating any of the aforementioned rules, and up to zł.

30,000 for breaking quarantine. At the very least, these laws will be in place until April 11th. For the latest updates given by the government, visit: gov.pl/web/koronawirus warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPHY

The New Reality?

As cities the world over entered a state of lockdown to combat the spread of Covid-19, an unnatural calm settled over Warsaw…

PHOTOS BY KAMIL LECZKOWSKI

W

ere you ever to shoot a disaster movie – the kind set in a Mad Max-style post-apocalyptic nightmare – then you’d have done worse than to determine the Polish capital as your location of choice.

Having announced on Friday 13th (yep, you couldn’t make it up!), that shopping centers, bars and restaurants were to temporarily close, Warsaw was seized by a despairing sense of overriding gloom.

With self-distancing measures encouraged, and decrees already in place barring mass gatherings and closing public institutions such as schools and museums, the weekend that followed will enter folklore as perhaps the most surreal in the city’s modern history – where once streets were logjammed with traffic and stores over-spilling with weekend punters, instead those straying into town were met with the kind of eerie stillness you’d normally associate with a zombie film on Netflix.

Standing as if frozen by an invisible hand, this was a capital none had seen before: mute, motionless and devoid of all life.

Caught in all its haunting beauty by photographer Kamil Leczkowski, and then juxtaposed against the snapper’s images of vibrant, precorona Warsaw, here was a city as if viewed from a dream…

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

warsawinsider.pl

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Warsaw… In Words

Remember that thing called ‘reading’. Well, there’s no better time to do it...

Vodka & Apple Juice

1947: The Colours of Ruin

Former Insider contributor Jay Martin spills the beans on her time as a diplomatic wife in Warsaw. The sleeve notes say it all: “Between glamorous cocktail parties and ambassadorial shenanigans, Jay sets out to get to know quirky, difficult, fascinating Poland, with its impenetrable language and sometimes unfathomable customs.”

Laced with humor, dry observations and bonkers diversions, it’s a book that will resonate with many.

If you reckon we’ve got it tough now, then maybe it’d be an idea to seek out this book. Visiting Warsaw in 1947 as part of an architectural study tour, Cobb, a Harvard student at the time, was entrusted as the visiting group’s “premiere color documentalist of the reconstruction of Warsaw”. Locked away for decades, his pictures came to light just eight years back.

Accompanied by detailed captions, his images of a battered Poland are both eye-opening and poignant.

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Henry N. Cobb

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Jay Martin

into several indecipherable directions. Covering the fringes of lowlife society, it’s a read that has attained a cult status despite being panned by many. So says the Independent: “More poetic than hardboiled, the thriller proves as confusing – and classy – as a Hollywood heist.”

There’s An Egg In My Soup Tom Galvin

Whilst hailing from the ‘skint English teacher abroad’ genre, Galvin’s take on post-Communist, pre-EU Poland is, at times, a fun reminder of years gone by. Printed in a font that time forgot, and set principally in Mińsk Mazowiecki, the occasional smugness of the author is over-written by often chuckle-worthy observations of everyday life in the sticks. Expat veterans of Warsaw will immediately grin at the first mention of the gone but not forgotten Morgan’s pub.

Sen O Mieście / Dream of a City Zbyszko Siemaszko

Landmarks of People’s Poland in Warsaw Jerzy S. Majewski

More guidebook than book, Majewski’s exploration of communist era Warsaw is compelling, tender and meticulously researched. Loaded with period photos and quirky detail, no other publication has come close to emulating the complete brilliance of this book: it’s got it all, from tales of escaping spies to hotel lobby killings, it’s a marvellous work that will make you view the landmarks you pass each day in a completely new manner.

Nine

Andrzej Stasiuk

A businessman gets given three days to pay off a debt owed to some Polish heavies (yeah, we’ve all been there!), and from there the plot spins

A celebration of the photographic work of Zbyszko Siemaszko, this concise little album is a compelling endeavor that presents the Warsaw of the 50s and 60s in a series of carefully crafted photos. Having died five years back, Siemaszko’s legacy lives on through his images that capture a surreal town far removed from what we know. “They are an idealistic illusion,” writes Katarzyna Madoń-Mitzner in her foreword, “a dream of a modern metropolis, a new city which had arisen out of the rubble of the old one.” Yes!

Polish Pills

Fanny Vaucher

Accompanied by the author’s own quirky doodles, Polish Pills views Warsaw through the eyes of a baffled foreigner, and faces the odd little conundrums that bamboozle us all: what makes all the old ladies so angry? Why don’t cashiers have change? And what’s with all the dubbing? Mischievous and original,

it does more to lay Warsaw’s secrets bare than any guidebook out there.

Though published several years back, it’s an endearing look at the Warsaw we love(d).

Rising ’44

Norman Davies

That even Poles regard the British historian Norman Davies as the foremost chronicler of the nation’s history says much. While his epic retelling of the Warsaw Uprising feels mechanical in its tone, few stones are left unturned in this magnum opus. At times complex and frustrating (not least due to the author’s infuriating habit of Anglicizing ALL Polish names), this is nonetheless a work of real merit. By the time you finish it, the world will be ruled by aliens!

Żol / Mok / Och / Sas / Pow Various authors

Produced by Centrum Architektury, this series of books focus in on the respective suburbs of Żoliborz, Mokotów, Ochota, Powiśle and Saska Kępa. Presented in Polish and English, and accompanied by incisively-drawn graphic illustrations of the key buildings in each area, this (sometimes hard-to-find) collection offers exquisite architectural insight into the neighborhoods it so tenderly covers.

Neon Warszawa Ilona Karwińska

London-based photographer Ilona Karwińska has worked tirelessly to bring attention to the fate of Polish Cold War-era neon. Having co-founded Warsaw’s Neon Museum, and published numerous titles dedicated to the topic, this must-have album tips the spotlight on the capital’s own dalliance with luminescent advertising. “My personal fascination with neons,” says Karwińska, “stems not only from their photogenic nature, but as decaying objects that in some way reflect the transience of the human experience.” warsawinsider.pl

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Warsaw… On Screen

At no time in history will you find yourself more encouraged to do absolutely zip but vegetate in your pants in front of the TV: which is why we’ve sifted through our basement to uncover the best (and worst!) films connected to Warsaw…

A prostitute working as a German agent is murdered in Nazi occupied Warsaw and suspicion falls on three generals. Though largely mediocre, an all-star cast featuring Omar Shariff, Peter O’Toole, Donald Pleasance and Tom Courtenay do much to elevate it. Shot mostly in Warsaw in 1966, it became the first Western movie to be filmed in Poland since the war and, among other things, required heavy editing to placate the Ministry of Cultural Affairs, extras supplied by the Polish army and tons of Styrofoam ‘snow’ imported from Germany. Locations, meanwhile, included Pl. Trzech Krzyży, Krakowskie Przedmieście, ul.

Podwale and Mostowa.

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

The Zookeeper’s Wife

Regaling the story of the Żabiński family, this 2017 film tells how Jan Żabiński used his position as head of Warsaw Zoo to hide 300 Jews during WWII. Though falling short of other Holocaust ‘classics’, it does plenty to pull the heartstrings. What you won’t see is much of Warsaw: with so much of the capital pancaked by the Germans, producers felt it wiser to shoot in Prague.

1983

Created after a drunken night out in Warsaw, Poland’s first serial shot for Netflix shouldn’t require much introduction. Foreseeing a dark world in which the Iron Curtain never fell, this fast-paced, dystopian

SHUTTERSTOCK

The Night of the Generals

decker plunging off Most Gdański.

All this and more awaits in Kick, a Bollywood film incongruously shot in Warsaw in 2014. Described in terms as everything from a ‘masala movie spiced with the superstardom of Salman Khan’ to a ‘brainless romp’, this action-comedy is essential viewing if for no other reason than its daft, unconvincing stunts and brain-tickling tunes. spy thriller was co-produced by Agnieszka Holland and offers endless opportunities to spot familiar landmarks in the unlikely event your attention strays.

The Pianist

The film adaptation of Władysław Szpilman’s riveting true tale of survival in the Jewish Ghetto dominated the 2003 Oscars, receiving gongs for Best Actor, Director and Screenplay. Even allowing for the passage of time, Roman Polanski’s masterpiece hasn’t aged one bit with IMDB users bestowing it with an 8.5 rating. Several scenes were shot in Praga and around Krakowskie Przedmieście and looking out for familiar landmarks is a pastime in itself.

Kick

Extravagantly overacted and ridiculous in its plot, who can resist a flick that includes a bus chase through the Polish capital that culminates in a London double

Miś

Possibly the best-loved Polish film of the entire PRL era, this breezy comedy tells the story of a separated couple’s race to access their joint savings account in London. Exposing the absurd complexities of life under communism, even non-Polish speakers find themselves sucked in by the slapstick humor and bewildering world of 80s Poland. It’s a beauty that’s got better with time.

Ashes & Diamonds

Starring Zbigniew Cybulski (a.k.a.

The Polish James Dean), fans of Andrzej Wajda’s 1958 classic include Martin Scorsese and Francis Ford Coppola. Says Criterion: “gorgeously photographed and brilliantly performed, Ashes and Diamonds masterfully interweaves the fate of a nation with that of one man, resulting in one of the most important Polish films of all time.”

This film is a powerful exploration of the social catastrophe faced in the post-war period.

Przygoda Na Mariensztacie

Forever enshrined in Polish cinematic history on account of it being the country’s first color movie, the inanity of this 1954 romantic comedy is offset by the Warsaw it depicts. A jolly city in the midst of rebirth, the blatant propaganda elements serve as a calling card for the rebuilding efforts undertaken by the capital. As expected, the Mariensztat district plays a prominent part, but Old Town, Muranów and MDM square also appear.

A Very Polish Practice

This feature-length spin-off of the British drama/comedy A Very Peculiar Practice finds the protagonist, Dr. Darker, working in early 90s Warsaw.

While a degree of familiarity with the series that spawned this film is necessary for maximum enjoyment, even those new to this bizarrely odd series will thrill at the decrepit, post-Communist capital that forms the backdrop.

The Foreigner

Expats of a certain vintage might remember the lurid rumors that surrounded Steven Seagal’s time in Warsaw. Well, aside from scandalizing locals, he was here to shoot The Foreigner, a straight-to-video action flick in which our protagonist is a deep cover operative delivering a secret package. Unquestionably idiotic, watch this 2003 flop to pick out scenes involving Łazienki Park, Old Town and Pl. Piłsudskiego. warsawinsider.pl

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For The Record

Self-isolating? Then do so with these (vaguely) Warsaw-related classics…

Swish Swish

Bob

When pop goddess Katy Perry released Swish Swish in 2017, the vid sent her fans into a frenzy. Where on earth, they asked, was the opening sequence shot? Answer: Warsaw.

Beginning with a bird’s eye view of the National Stadium (emblazoned with the words of Bingo’s Bail Bond Stadium), the video was deemed by Seventeen to be “so bad it’s actually amazing.”

Featuring on an album titled Poodle Hat – Yankovic’s worst-selling effort – Bob wins the weird prize on our hitlist by a factor too high to compute.

Consisting entirely of palindromes, the Polish capital features in lyrics that go thus: “Lisa Bonet ate no basil, Warsaw was raw, Was it a car or a cat I saw?” Impossibly, it does get stranger: “UFO tofu, We panic in a pew, Oozy rat in a sanitary zoo.”

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

“Weird Al” Yankovic

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Katy Perry

was embraced as a socialist marching anthem in 1905 after a May Day demonstration. Later translated into oodles of different languages (Finnish, Dutch, Faroese, you get the drift), it’s featured in everything from Dr. Zhivago and The Jackal to most recently 1983. Track it down on YouTube to watch as it’s played to accompany commie parades in 70s Warsaw.

Piosenka o mojej Warszawie Mieczysław Fogg

From Warsaw With Love Michał Urbaniak

Released last year as part of events honoring the 75th anniversary of the Warsaw Uprising, jazz legend Michał Urbaniak’s personalized tribute to the 63-day insurgency features cameos from Marcus Miller, David Gilmore and Lenny White. Just oneyear-old when the rebellion broke out, Urbaniak credits his survival to his mother who fled the city with him under her arm one-day before the battle began.

Warszawianka Wacław Święcicki

Suspend for one moment any political leanings you might have to instead consider the majesty of this tune. Allegedly written in 1879 by Wacław Święcicki while he served hard time in Warsaw’s Citadel jail, it

Written in the last days of the Uprising, this jaunty ditty was frequently performed in bomb shelters and by barricades by this legendary entertainer. Touchingly sentimental, ‘The Song About My Warsaw’ is a heartfelt postulate to the city that that he loves. Lauded for his pre-war tangoes, his post-war café established amid the ruins of Marszałkowska, and his eventual induction into Yad Vashem’s Righteous Among The Nations, think of Fogg as representative of everything brilliant about the city and its people.

Sen o Warszawie Czesław Niemen

A classic 60s anthem from the pen of ‘the Polish Bob Dylan’, this epic ode to Warsaw is steeped in sentimentality. Lustily recited before each Legia home game, hearing 30,000 blokes belting it out makes the hairs on your neck stand on end – astonishingly, Legia’s traditionally raucous rendition found itself trumped in 2019 when Metallica performed it inside a packed National Stadium.

Warszawa T.Love

This rousing, shout-along, Polish rock classic is best appreciated in the midst of vodka-fueled psychosis.

A raw and unrelenting paean to the capital, the legendary lyrics (‘zielony

Żoliborz, pieprzony Żoliborz’ / ‘green Żoliborz, fu*king Żoliborz’) are all but chiseled into local folklore.

Love Will Come Through Travis

Where do a group of melancholic Scottish gloom-mongers head once they’ve exhausted all filming locations back home? Praga. Shot in the midst of an especially grisly winter, the video to this tune plays out with the Jamnik (‘sausage dog’) building opposite Dw. Wschodni in the background.

Walls Come Tumbling Down The Style Council

The British rockers famously recorded the vid to Walls Come Tumbling Down in front of a puzzled audience in Akwarium Jazz Club (since demolished to make way for the InterConti) before embarking on a tram ride across bleak mid-80s Praga. “Would you ever go back,” they were asked on returning to Britain. “No,” came the little-toohonest reply.

Warszawa David Bowie

Making the most of a brief stopover at Dw. Gdański, David Bowie set off on foot to Pl. Wilsona where he explored the area and visited a record store. This short foray into Żoliborz was enough to stir him to write Warszawa, an eerie instrumental recorded in 1976.

Warsaw

Joy Division

Inspired by the dark mood of Bowie’s LP, Joy Division originally started out as Warsaw, only changing their name after a band called Warsaw Pakt emerged on the late 70s British scene. Nonetheless, they went ahead and recorded a track called Warsaw.

Alarmingly, rather than being about the Polish capital it was written as a ‘lyrical biography’ of Rudolf Hess. warsawinsider.pl

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INTERVIEW BEER

WI: Wow. Where to begin. From the brewing side, how’s the industry responded?

Paweł Leszczyński: Amazingly – especially when it’s come to thinking about the most vulnerable. From the outset they realized the gravity of the situation and understood that pubs, shops and festivals had to cancel their sales the moment this pandemonium began. They haven’t chased the money owed to them which has allowed our community to really come together.

A Time To Drown The Sorrows?

Is the pint half-full of half-empty… Paweł Leszczyński, the co-founder of the Warsaw Beer Festival, talks about the impact of the crisis on Poland’s craft beer scene

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

There’s no point in phrasing this gently – when it comes to the craft beer sector, just how bad are things going to get?

That pretty much depends on the rents and agreements that breweries have in place. On top of that, you’ve got to ask, have they made any big investments in the last few months. There’s quite a few that did, and that’s not a good thing given the climate. For sure, I’m convinced we’re going to see around 20% of the country’s craft breweries close; in more black-and-white terms, that’s around 50 that I expect to go under. Of these, however, I think a few will be reactivated, for instance the very small ones run by a handful of people.

They’ll be able to minimalize their losses and return at a later date.

Worse hit will be the pubs. After a traditionally tough winter they were all looking forward to April, which is when, usually speaking, the ‘craft beer season’ begins. That boost to their takings isn’t happening and it’s likely that they’ll experience serious financial problems.

If they can’t agree upon a rent freeze or suchlike with their landlords, we’re

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PAWEŁ LESZCZYŃSKI

How long do you think this situation will last for?

What we know right now is that this lockdown is not going to be brief. It’ll last, most probably, for a few months at least – so yes, it’s been a real bolt from the blue. Pubs and breweries had no time to prepare for this and their cellars and tanks have been left full of beer ahead of the ‘season’. With it being illegal to send alcohol by mail to customers, they’ve been stuck with a vast surplus of beer and are now trying to figure out what they can do to shift it and if they can ride the storm.

going to see a few closing.

You were just a couple of weeks away from welcoming guests to the latest edition of the Warsaw Beer Festival.

What now for you?

The worst thing I could possibly do is sit on my arse staring blankly at our promo poster of the beer festival that never happened. At first I felt frustrated and furious about being stuck at home, but I can’t dwell on the money that’s been lost, all I can do is focus on what I’m able to do at this very moment in time – and that’s helping the breweries get through this.

How are you doing that…

I’ve been working on the creation of a consumer association, Radio Wolny Kraft, and that finally made its debut on March 17th – I imagine it’s the first such organization to be inaugurated on Skype! Essentially it serves to gather all initiatives that can help our industry.

We’re not interested in getting involved in the age old argument about ‘what craft really means’, instead what we want to do is restore the beer scene to resemble all that we loved before this crisis came about. Equally, it’s important that we show the breweries and pubs that they are not alone.

From a consumer point of view, Poland had reached a stage where you were able to find any beer you could possibly want. We don’t want that to change and we definitely don’t want to return to the same place we were ten years ago when the only thing that differentiated the beer you were drinking were the colors on the can.

A noble cause – but how are you going to accomplish all this?

The first step has been the launch of a platform called Radio Wolne Kraft: it’s on here that we’re gathering all of the initiatives that can help our industry, for example, such as facilitating the resale of beers fresh from the brewery or pub cellars to various pick-up points around the country. That’s what we’re coordinating right now.

What needs to happen for the industry to bounce back?

The bar and breweries are in a deep state of shock, but they’ve also got

employees, cellars packed with beer and rents to pay. In the case of Warsaw, these rents can be enormous. Many really need to make a quick decision as to whether they close now or try and adapt by changing their concept.

Each day they do nothing is costing them money.

At Radio Wolne Kraft, what we’re trying to do is establish mechanisms enabling these places to sell their beer safely without contact. Every bit as importantly, we’re using Radio Wole Kraft as a channel through which brewers and bar owners can communicate to each other – after all, communication is a basic human need.

For the first time ever, the best advice genuinely is to stay the f**k at home!

What should the public keep in mind?

To get back to those days we enjoyed so much we need to really work hard for it, otherwise it’s just not going to happen. For the first time ever, the best advice genuinely is to stay the f**k at home! The only way to save our existing culture is by finding an end to the coronavirus and the public can do their bit by staying put, opening a beer and playing video games or watching Netflix – it’s easy. Don’t screw it up!

A big thing has been made of the stimulus packages that governments are working on the world over. Are you getting any help from the Polish government?

Honestly, we’ve not really heard much from them. It goes without saying they’ve got bigger problems than the fate of craft beer, but they do need to remember that the consumption of alcohol brings them huge revenue. If they want to collect those taxes in the future, then they need to act now. I fully recognize that there’s other industries in far more precarious situations, but if anything this is about protecting small business. So far, the solutions they’ve offered don’t go far enough.

Of course it’s too early to say, but as it stands are there any lessons you’ve learned?

That nothing is certain in life. Across the craft beer segment, we’ve been completely swept away by what’s happened – it’s changed our lives. And the speed of it all… At the same time, it’s really showed us what we created, and I don’t mean the standards and quality that our beer met. We built something that went way beyond beer. With both time and energy, we created a real community that wasn’t in it for the money but drawn by passion and the vibe. Yes, we need support, but though it hasn’t arrived from some quarters, from others it’s come in an almost unexpected density. I’m staggered by the reaction of so many people – we were always close to our customers, but now we’re even closer.

Can you imagine that moment when pubs reopen and things get back to normal?

Oh, I’m dreaming about going to the pub. Likewise, I’m dreaming about organizing the next festival. That said, I’m pretty certain the world will be different. How so, I don’t know, after all we’re still in the process of figuring out what’s even happening. What it means for our future I couldn’t guess, but I can’t really imagine living in the same world that we knew a few weeks ago.

Yet although I’m afraid of a different world, I also think we can strive to create something similar – maybe, something that’s even better. What we need to do is work together and protect the weakest so we can all meet as one over a great pint of beer. I don’t need a big party; I’d just love to meet my friends. warsawinsider.pl

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I N T E R V I E W R E S TA U R A N T S

All Rise For… The Baron Seen as culinary royalty, the Insider’s reigning Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, takes time out to chat about the consequences of the Covid-19 crisis…

PHOTOS BY ALEKSANDER BARON

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

WI: We knew about the virus for months, yet it seems every single country in Europe was surprised when it hit them. As an industry, should the restaurant world have taken more notice?

Aleksander Baron: We have a proverb in Polish – mądry Polak po szkodzie – which means it’s easy to be a wise (Pole) after the event. I guess that applies to everyone, not just Poles. For starters, human nature can be tricky; we tend to downplay the threat until the very end, thinking: “it’s gonna’ be ok”.

We were aware of the jeopardy, but to be frank, no one could anticipate what has happened. Second of all, nothing like this has ever happened before in post-war Europe. Of course, we heard of the SARS or the MERS virus, but the scale was different, we knew it more from the news and not as a real threat.

I’m not trying to justify anyone, neither the industry nor the government, just making a point.

Will things ever be the same again?

I see two principal possibilities. When the quarantine comes to an end, everyone is overcome with happiness and everything thrives: both the restaurant industry and others. We go back to normal, everyone is happy, and as a society, we don’t learn any lessons.

There’ll be capitalistic whispers about the ‘great opportunities’ ahead and only the leftover supply of face masks, anti-bacterial gels, pasta and rice will remind us of what we went through.

And, of course, we’ll all have learned how to wash our hands properly. But there’s a second scenario; we return to normal but are more aware. We redefine our needs.

Honestly though, I don’t believe that the world will change, nor do I believe consumerism will diminish. It’s human nature that we immediately forget the bad things that just happened. There’s also, of course, the worst-case scenario: that the coronavirus doesn’t go away

and, after a respite in the summer, it returns and brings with it another catastrophe. I don’t know if that’ll happen or not, but I want to stay optimistic.

What’s the bottom line for the restaurant world?

It’s bad. Usually restaurateurs don’t save money; it’s a flowing business in which not many make long-term plans – they exist month-to-month, occasionally quarter-to-quarter. With staff costs, rent, bills, loans, there’ll come a point when they’re faced with a choice: should they try and wait it out or should they cut their losses and close? Look up the Alligator Principle to see what I mean. There will be many closures, and not just in Warsaw but also across the whole country. They’ll be replaced by something new, but who knows what that’s going to be?

You’re known for your adventurous approach to cooking, and as such

people expect you to be an exotic eater – actually, in a previous chat with us you told us you once ate a rat in China! With what we now know about the dangers of so-called ‘wet markets’, what should happen to them?

You’re right about the rat! I’m always learning, and now a days I’d be more careful. I’m not an expert, but let me put it like this: it’s true that a ‘wet market’ was the source of the virus, then things need to be changed immediately.

You’re currently in between restaurants, so in some respects you’ve been quite lucky?

I’m not in the worst situation. I had planned on opening my new project in June – a restaurant, grill, vodka and cocktail bar – but I’ve obviously postponed that now, and instead of hiring fifty people for the time being I’ve recruited only ten. I’m more worried

about my fellow restaurateurs, chefs and the industry as a whole: there’s hard times coming and we shouldn’t count on any government help.

Will this change how restaurants think and operate?

Well, I’m sure we’ll all have mastered the takeaway! More seriously, I hope we’ll learn to be a little more humble, prescient and cautious, as well as less inclined to romp and rampage during boom times.

What can Joe Public do to help?

Keep ordering deliveries from your favorite restaurants and buy vouchers to use in the future. Also, a good word goes far in these hard times.

Like all chefs, you’re a workaholic.

What have you been up to during these times?

It hasn’t changed things much for me because for the last six months I’ve warsawinsider.pl

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I N T E R V I E W R E S TA U R A N T S

Maybe we’ll take more responsibility for our actions and think a little more about our wounded world.

been working with my team in an office.

Quarantine hasn’t given me any extra time, so to speak; working by phone, video and various forms of messaging were part of my daily routine anyhow.

The only thing I’ve found limiting is my flat, which is too small. That’s why I’ve returned to my childhood passion: rollerblading. I’m not boasting mind, as I’ve only done it a couple of times!

Speaking of your apartment, what’s in the kitchen!

I cooked Ukrainian borscht three days ago and I’ve been eating it ever since.

As for the fridge: butter and eggs – that’s my basic diet. What worries me is the lack of wine I have at home, but at least I’ve got three bottles of peated whiskey sitting on the shelf – for now, that’ll have to do!

What I’m not going to deny is having stocked-up on food ahead of the lockdown. I’m not ashamed of that. As Poles, our historical traumas have been genetically transmitted which explains why we’re so compulsive when it comes to groceries. That’s why I stocked up before any panic. If I don’t end up needing the food, then it at least puts me in a position to help my family, neighbors or any others in need. Going on from that, it’s really warmed my heart to see all these notices and announcements people have made offering help to those less fortunate – for me, I take it as proof that we’ve passed a test of human kindness.

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You’re a devoted fan of meat – playing the part of devil’s advocate, I’ll put to you that this would never have happened if the world was vegan. Chef, defend meat!

Come on! These are ridiculous labels! If I told you I loved Scotch would you think that I drink it every day? I’m a huge fan of meat but that’s the exact reason I don’t eat it every day. Moreover, I only eat it a few times a month. You need to know the right measure (at least if you’re an adult) if you want the world to be beautiful! For that reason, no, I’m not going to defend meat.

Even more so, I wish industrial farming would disappear and we could revert to early 20th century habits when we ate ten times less meat.

That’d be good for both us and the planet. So yeah, stop with the labels! It’s because of stereotypes like that people think I ferment EVERYTHING and only eat steaks with weird fungi growing on

them. You know its bollocks!

I stand corrected! Onwards – any plans for when this ‘ends’?

Whatever I do it’ll be with my friends – I’m a herd animal and I miss the company of people I’m unable to meet now. And I miss greeting guests in a restaurant: hosting people is something I just completely love.

You’re an upbeat guy – give us a reason not to kill ourselves yet!

After the bear comes the bull – that’s the rule! Maybe we’ll come out of this a bit more thoughtful about the product and food in general. Maybe we’ll take more responsibility for our actions and think a little more about our wounded world.

And maybe we’ll start caring for our bodies, thinking of the food we eat and where it all came from – that’s my wish for the future, and I apply those hopes as much to myself as I do to others.

Golden Hearted

Grupa Warszawa ride to the rescue of the elderly with a public-backed meals-on-wheels project…

PRESS MATERIALS

T

hat the coronavirus laid bare the ugly selfishness of many is impossible to ignore, yet away from the more lurid stories a lesser-publicized, kinder picture of humanity has also emerged.

As Warsaw entered lockdown mode, the city saw an outbreak of generosity as altruistic citizens rushed to help those struggling to adapt. But of the dozens upon dozens of initiatives launched, few have galvanized residents more than #PosiłekDlaSeniora.

Created by Grupa Warszawa, a firm responsible for some of the edgiest F&B concepts in town, the fundraiser has set out to ensure that the elderly do not go without food during these pressing times. With over 22% of the city’s population aged 60 or over, and many of those belonging to the most vulnerable and at-risk groups, Grupa Warszawa have pledged to cook and deliver meals for them. Cooked at the company’s Biała and Syreni Śpiew venues, the meals, valued at zł. 25 each, have proved a hit with the public so far moved to donate in excess of zł.

18,000 to support the project.

For details, see: zrzutka.pl/ty52jv warsawinsider.pl

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AT H O M E T R I S N O H A M I D

Home Is Where The Hamid Is!

The culinary brain behind MOD and ReginaBar, Singaporean chef Trisno Hamid opens his apartment to the Insider team…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

What’s in your fridge?

Loads of dips and sauces in different bowls and containers: sweet soya sauce with chopped chili; chili jam; chili paste with fermented shrimp paste; teriyaki; peri peri, sriracha, fish sauce with lime...

You name it!

Are you going to loaf about and catch up on any cooking shows?

I’ve got plenty of time now! I used to watch Magda Gessler’s Kuchnia Rewolucje and remember an episode when she was making a dish in a Thai restaurant using products from the show’s sponsor. I love the absurdity!

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

Do you rate these shows?

They're great entertainment but I don’t believe in chefs competing with each other because taste is so subjective. It’s like art: unmeasurable. But then I don’t really care about awards. For me, real success is how many guests visit and pay to eat your food. Numbers don’t lie.

Any cookbooks knocking around?

Quite a few. Mostly traditional cuisines of the world.

Tony Bourdain – thoughts please!

Round about 2002 I was jobless and had no choice but work in a kitchen. I hated it and thought it was a job for losers with no other prospects. A friend lent me Bourdain’s Kitchen Confidential and it completely changed my perspective.

In what way?

I realized cooking could be rock’n’roll.

The long hours, the adrenaline, the drugs, booze and sex with waitresses! Thanks to that book, I felt more confident and self-assured. I’m not a corpo-nerd and it made me realize the value of not being one. I love Bourdain.

You’re kitchen wouldn’t be the same without…

A hand blender. It’s essential for the sauces and pastes I make at home.

Any guilty food pleasures?

I admit, I kinda’ miss KFC. What’s your ultimate comfort food?

I can’t answer this! Back in Singapore it was really common to go and eat in the hawker centers: cheap, delicious and plenty of choice. I loved the Singaporean take on Indian, Malaysian and Chinese food.

When was the last time you ordered a food delivery?

I just got a new phone and there’s so many apps to download I haven’t got around to getting the food ones. I swear, I can’t remember the last thing I ordered. It was probably last week, but I really don’t remember. I’m aging!

The government announce we’ve all got a day left to live – what are you going to cook…

Lemak chili padi. chicken stew in coconut cream and lemongrass with bird’s eye chili and lime leaves.

warsawinsider.pl

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AT H O M E T R I S N O H A M I D Providing we all survive, what are you looking forward to doing in terms of food?

Expanding my dim sum menu. It was something we only recently started but the restaurant was getting really busy for our weekend dim sum brunch.

What booze have you got knocking around?

Loads and loads of bottles. Mostly they’re gifts. I love spiced rum so have a lot of that from around the world, and also vodka that I just don’t drink – I find it boring, but maybe I haven’t tasted enough. Also wine, all of it natural.

When we get the green light to resume life, where would you love to go for a food holiday?

Singapore. I think the variety and taste of the food there is unparalleled, at least compared to anywhere else I’ve been – and Tony Bourdain said as much as well!

Out with it, give us some of your favorite food travels…

Le Chateaubriand is my favorite memory of Paris, and oh, Tokyo. I love it. I’d go there just for the sushi. In Copenhagen, meanwhile, I had the most amazing Thai food. The baan ngau I remember was mind blowing.

It’s the crappiest question in the world, but if you could invite anyone in the world for a dinner party, who’d it be?

My closest friends and sisters – I could eat without having to be polite and no-one would judge me!

Starting out must have been the hardest graft?

My first job was at Le Gavroche in London. I had to be up at 6 in the morning and would get back at 1 a.m. Sunday was the day off so that’d be time to get a kebab, watch football, have a nap and then after a pint or two. There was no time for anything else!

Chefs are workaholic creatures. This situation must drive you mad?

You’re right, we are workaholics, but I think us Asian chefs are a different breed completely. Actually, I was once asked by a colleague who asked (jokingly), “why do you yellow people work harder than dogs?” That’s how I got my nickname, and that’s why my restaurant in Kraków was called Yellow Dog!

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

warsawinsider.pl

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SPECIAL TASTING MENU FOR READERS OF WARSAW INSIDER BOTTLE OF CHINESE WINE MOSER XV FOR FREE!

+48 512 671 756 kontakt@panska85.com.pl panska85.com

First Bite

TOTALLY MEX-CELLENT!

As the implications of a restaurant shutdown ring around Poland’s F&B sector, those involved in the industry have struck back in a spirited bid to keep the segment afloat – if the public can’t get to the restaurant, then take the restaurant to the public! Though delivery services have long been around, a number of restaurants have chosen to cut out the middle man and transport themselves, and few have met with bigger applause than the hip hop crew at the legendary Gringo Bar. Cooked and folded by tattooed lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing, and while detractors see their burritos as a Polonized version of ‘the real thing’, there’s no doubting the fullness of flavors nor the power current surge of their hotter homemade salsas. Now delivering in a pimpedup gringo-mobile through their own house app, they’ve emerged as heroes in these uncertain times.

PHOTOGRAPH KEVIN DEMARIA

Gringo Bar Several locations, gringobar.pl / gringo-bar.upmenusite.com

warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! home delivery

DELIVER US FROM EVIL!

As Covid-19 sinks its fangs into the restaurant sector, Warsaw’s eateries have fought back with often highly creative pick-up and delivery solutions…

ul. Mokotowska 48 It’s a sign of the times that this fancy neo bistro-style affair has had to enter the take-away game, and they’ve dozne a cracking job of it. Each day, pick a main and a starter for zł.

45 and then add in a tenner for delivery. As one of the best restaurants in town, it’s a deal you can’t sniff at.

Bangkok Soi

Al. Jana Pawła II 50 Such is the budget nature of the interior, you’re actually better off getting Bangkok to deliver – and this they do via Wolt, Pyszne and Uber. We’re not alone in rating it as the top Thai in town.

Beirut / Kraken

ul. Poznańska 12 Present on Wolt, Pyszne and Uber, this duo of inter-connected venues also offer personal pick-up between 1 p.m. and 9 p.m. Check social media for a menu whose highlights inc. various hummus combos, kofta mixes, seafood and… Philly cheesesteak!

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

Bez Gwiazdek

ul. Wiślana 8 For the last two-years Bez Gwiazdek have dominated our Best of Warsaw awards with their sophisticated interpretation of lesser-known regional Polish cuisine. Having spent late-March finessing their delivery offer, watch their social media from April onwards to see how they ace the take-out business.

Bibenda

ul. Nowogrodzka 10 Thinking outside of the (delivery) box, Bibenda offer 3-course family dinners (zł. 120 for 2) couriered to you each Friday and Sat. Place your order before 10 p.m. on Thursday and they’ll do the rest.

Bombaj Masala

Al. Jana Pawła II 23 Another place rising to the challenges of today, Bombaj Masala will bring you Indian food that exceeds the normal standard through Roomservice.pl as well as their own chan-

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Ale Wino

DELIVERY SERVICES Glodny glodny.pl Glovo glovo.pl Pyszne pyszne.pl Room Service roomservice.pl Royal Menu royalmenu.pl Uber Eats ubereats.com Wolt wolt.com

Koko & Roy

nels. And they’re still prepping their daily lunch deals as well.

ul. Wilcza 43 Designed to travel and keep well (and even freeze!), Koko & Roy’s #StayHome menu sees the equivalent of two-tothree servings packed in a 1,000 ml container. Contact via social media to order beautiful dishes such as BBQ pulled pork; corn and potato chowder with bacon and chives; or beef and porter stew. At all costs, this Insider fave must be protected!

Butchery & Wine

Kura

Ceviche Bar

Kur & Wino

ul. Żurawia 22 Warsaw’s premier steak house have knocked the restaurant thing on the head for the time being and instead repurposed themselves as a butcher operating from 10 a.m. to 7 p.m. ul. Twarda 4 Takeout and delivery options available: see their FB for deets. Working Mon to Sat, nowhere nails the taste of Latin America with quite the same gusto.

Curry House

Various locations Find Poland’s most prevalent Indian chain on platforms like Pyszne: rumor has it their vindaloo is being scientifically tested in the ongoing battle to scorch the coronavirus from this planet once and for all (just kidding!). The point stands: you’re going to seriously sizzle.

Edamame

ul. Wilcza 11 Contactless deliveries and pickups with payment conducted solely using Blik – call direct between noon and 8 to order from a sushi restaurant that’s officially rated by HappyCow as the city’s top vegan venture.

ul. Nowolipki 15 Fried chicken from the heavens along with zappy sauces to go with it. Hipster street food tastes just fab with Kura – find them on Wolt and Room Service. ul. Andersa 21 It took a while for Kur & Wino to build a cult reputation, but build it they did. Simply the juiciest, sexiest rotisserie chicken you can imagine will now be brought to your abode courtesy of the new knights of the road: Uber Eats.

In keeping with the climate, prices have dropped 30%.

L’Arc

ul. Puławska 16 Delivering what you might know as the city’s best upmarket seafood, hit up L’Arc for a 600 gram whole lobster with lime mayo, lemon and sauce for a bargain zł. 199. Oysters, mussels, shrimps, squid, etc., also available seven days a week and dispatched right to your door.

La Sirena

ul. Piękna 54 Pre-order via phone to pick-up yourself, or get someone else to do the work for you by visiting Uber Eats or Glovo. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! home delivery

This whole crisis would have been a damn sight worse without their short-rib burrito making regular journeys to this writer’s home office.

Leonardo Verde

ul. Poznańska 13 While they do personal pickup (normal menu items discounted to the tune of 25%), delivery is preferred. Wolt, Uber, Pyszne and Glovo all serve those needs, and in return you’ll be receiving vegan pizzas that break the law in their irresistibility.

Le Cedre

Various locations In Warsaw since the mid-90s, it’s going to take more than a pandemic to dent Le Cedre’s standing. Look to Room Service to enable your hankerings for authentic Lebanon.

Mąka i Woda

ul. Chmielna 13A No longer will you be without your favorite Naples-style pizza. Beyond delivering their pizza, pastas, cold cuts and sarnies to you, they can also supply organic flour, fresh sourdough and various other posh ingredients you can prep at home.

Mięsny

ul. Walecznych 64

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Offering pick-up or delivery for those within a 10-minute radius, this Saska eatery has a special crisis menu with slashed prices and mainstay faves like burgers and steaks: at zł. 55, the filet mignon is an astonishing deal. And in the deli section, everyone knows you won’t find better meat in Warsaw.

MOD

ul. Oleandrów 8 MOD’s eclectic mix of ramen and classic French influences has made them one of Warsaw’s favorite eateries. Having premiered a special ‘stay at home’ menu, track them down on Uber and Wolt to enjoy their dishes whilst penned in by bog roll in your protective anti-viral chamber.

Mr. Greek Souvlaki

ul. Londyńska 16 A family-run passion project, it’s with fingers crossed that businesses like this make it through. Open for takeaway from noon till 7 p.m., head here not just for Warsaw’s best moussaka and freshly wrapped pittas, but to back just about the nicest restaurateur you could wish to meet.

Mr. Oh

Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego Having had its path to becoming Warsaw’s coolest nightspot inconveniently blocked by the coronavirus, attention now finds itself falling on Mr. Oh’s kitchen. And oh indeed.

Delivering within a 3.5 click radius, you’re going to find yourself treated to some smashing pan-Asian food that runs from bao with seitan and hoisin sauce to the wacky Samurai sandwich. And attention please: in keeping with Polish law, they can’t deliver booze, but they can send out pre-mixed non-alc cocktails that just require you to top up with booze.

Pańska 85

ul. Pańska 85 If Warsaw’s best Chinese food wasn’t a reason to order, then consider swinging by to pick up a bottle of something bubbly – as things stand, drinks prices have been slashed by 50%. If you don’t intend on moving from your flat, then instead order via Room Service.

Pogromcy Meatów

ul. Koszykowa 1 In local terms, these boys pretty much rewired the entire dude food scene when they opened a few years back.

Experts when it comes to meat, their hybrid sandwichburgers are just the ticket for a night spent skyping your mates in a virtual pub. Find them on Wolt or Uber, or contact them direct for cold cuts should you prefer to build your own epic tower of meaty goodness.

Przyjemność

ul. Marszałkowska 68/70 Pick-up on site (one customer at a time) or delivered through Uber, Wolt and Glodny. Unashamedly untraditional but never compromising on either taste or quality, Przyjemność are without doubt our pizza of the year – fail to support them and we’ll send round a thug to rough you up.

Reginabar

ul. Marszałkowska 8 Mega fun, hugely tasty, pseudo-Asian cuisine delivered via Wolt and Uber – if you’re not on either of those, then they can also send round their own Cool Car! You can also pop by for pick-up yourself, though you’ll be making your contactless payment by waving your card at the window – not even delivery boys are allowed inside. At a time when everyone is executing the highest standard of hygiene, TCC take it to unimaginable heights!

The Farm

ul. Mokotowska 8 A great butcher’s counter has been complimented by a delivery menu featuring a posh version of zapiekanka, beef bourguignon and hefty goulashes. Seek them out direct to order.

Tel Aviv

Various locations Serving not just via Pyszne, Wolt and Glovo, this pioneering vegan chain has also established its own distribution channels using a central number. Their specially adapted ‘crisis menu’ features reduced prices and more hot options.

Uki Uki

ul. Krucza 23/31 It was Uki Uki that first sent Warsaw noodle crazy, and they’ve taken the bull by the horns to continue their crusade.

Pick-up and delivery options available with the latter only a choice within a 5K zone (“Sorry Ursynów,” say the management!).

Zielony Niedźwiedź

ul. Koszykowa 1 New York pizza and Chinatown-style comfort food delivered by Wolt, Uber and Glovo. If they’re out of your zone, then Regina can organize their own people to deliver to you instead. We can testify it’s brilliant on-the-sofa food!

ul. Smolna 4 Either ready to eat or ready to reheat (instructions provided!), The Green Bear accept both personal pick-ups or can deliver via Room Service. It’s been a while since we’ve road-tested this modern Polish restaurant ourselves, but we very much doubt they’ve fallen below anything than excellent.

Shoku

Zkurczybyk

Tahina

Zoni

ul. Karolkowa 30 Every city needs a restaurant like Shoku. Serving a fusion of modern Asian flavors, they’ll deliver pretty much anything on their menu (“no fried beef, desserts or eggplant fuzu,” say the management, “they don’t travel well”), when contacted by phone. Min. order is set at zł. 50 with token delivery charges applied. ul. Wilcza 26 Might be delivering, might not be – all depends on a test run they’ll be carrying out at the end of March. Run by a brilliantly cool Iraqi-Polish couple, their food’s been reviewed by one FB user as a “Michelin restaurant collided with a food truck.” That’s not too much of a wayward description: the Middle East has never tasted better, at least not in Warsaw.

The Cool Cat TR

ul. Poznańska 7 Collaborating with Wolt, Pyszne and Uber Eats, Zkurczybyk have more reason to curse than others. Just as word was escaping how good they are, along came Covid-19. Savagely messy, their world-beating hot wings are things of profound, holy beauty, likewise, their meat-oriented sandwiches. If you live near, you can pick them up yourself between 3 and 10.

Pl. Konesera 1 Going significantly beyond the call of duty, Zoni’s online menu includes vacuum-packed mains, an array of snacks, bread and cheeses, as well as aged steaks ready for your grill. Even delivering to the end of the universe (i.e. Konstancin, Łomianki, etc.), precautions include a max. kitchen staff of four, regular temperature checks and regularly disinfected delivery vehicles. Check their web for info. warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings

By in large, you can expect to pay between zł. 20-35 for starters, and zł.

35-70 for mains. Expect those prices to double in the case of the city’s fine dining venues. Those wishing to cut costs should seek out the weekday business lunch deals now offered by most restaurants. When tipping, 10-20% is considered polite though be aware of automatic service charges in some venues.

american 30 bakeries 30 balkan 30 chinese 30 comfort food 31 desserts 32 fine dining 33 food halls & happenings 36 french 35 georgian 35 greek & turkish 35 hungarian 35 indian 35 international 37 italian 40 japanese 41 korean 42 latin & spanish 42 mexican 42 middle eastern 42 polish 44 seafood 45 specialty food 50 steak houses 50 thai 52 ukrainian & russian 52 vegan 51 vietnamese 52

american Champions Sports Bar The heavy décor brings to mind the trans-Atlantic sports bars of the 90s, with glinting trophies, whirring machines, clacking pool tables and a cacophony of commentaries. Hell, there’s even a boxing ring. But you can’t criticize their consistency: the food is always on-point

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

while the generous floor plan makes it suitable for unwieldy groups of large and loud lads. (D5) Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott Hotel), champions.pl Koko & Roy Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious.

Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

bakeries Aromat That many consider this their favorite bakery says it all. French flour and an expert baker ensure brilliant results, while the lemon éclairs deserve their own Facebook page. (C4) ul. Sienna 39, fb.com/ piekarnia.aromat Charlotte While the fancy crowd isn’t to everyone’s liking, the atmosphere feels truly continental: even more so in warm weather when the terrace packs out. Al. Wyzwolenia 18 (enter from pl. Zbawiciela) & Pl. Grzybowski 2, bistrocharlotte.com Rano The rise of Stalowa street is to be taken seriously, and the existence of Rano is one rather good reason. Looking – and smelling – like you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to be, the standard is such that a number of the city’s top restaurants have begun ordering from here. You will as well. ul. Stalowa 47 SAM Co-owner Małgorzata Kusina-Doran is a fine-bread connoisseur, honing her skills at a bread-making course chaired

by Raymond Blanc. While SAM have expanded to cover numerous locations, this has not been to the cost of the overall quality. Many locations, sam.info.pl

balkan Na Bałkany This newbie modernizes the Balkan experience in a manner Warsaw’s yet to see: raw, industrial aesthetics meet head on with a menu that adds a delicate finesse to a cuisine better known for its heavy, rustic style. The addition of a light, sophisticated hand has not, however, been to the detriment of taste.

Of the favorites, the swordfish steak, lamb goulash and beef plejskavica sell particularly well. It feels all the more complete with a rakija or three. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 47 (entry from ul. Koszykowa 53), nabalkany.pl

chinese

Pańska 85 Ample in size, the interiors speak of money well spent. This is especially true because despite the luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice.

The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. (B4) ul. Pańska 85, panska85.com Regina Bar Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/Reginabar

In accordance with the law, as of press time restaurants were permitted only to offer carry-out or delivery services with on-site consumption strictly forbidden. Though highly unlikely, due to the dynamic nature of the situation, we have maintained a skeletal set of restaurant listings in the hope that they may reopen later in April.

comfort food Barn Burger Considered one of the founding fathers of Warsaw’s burger culture, Barn Burger have withstood the test of time and emerged as the yardstick all others are judged against. Prepped using freshly ground Charolais beef, choices include the jalapeno-laid Muppet and the outrageous Bypass (400g of beef with quadruple cheese and bacon). If you want to go down in legend, enter one of their Americanstyle speed eating comps. (D4) ul. Złota 9, barnburger.pl

guineafowl from Wielkopolska cooked rotisserie-style and then served with an array of homemade sauces. And then there’s the sandwiches, beautiful things served on focaccia and smeared with honey mustard. Sure, you could call it street food, but doing so underestimates the level of love awarded to the product. That you’ll be enjoying it in a cool, funky backdrop makes it all the better: outside, sit amid crates filled with palms, inside, among funky-style furnishings

that pair well with the PRL look of this high-ceilinged chamber. (C1) ul. Andersa 21, fb.com/kurwino Okienko When the chips are down and you’re looking for emergency nourishment, then join the queue outside Okienko: serving Belgian-style frites in paper cones, this street-side hatch is a true window of life.

The roster of sauces, written up in marker pen on the wall tiles, are often superb.

(D7) ul. Polna 22

Ben Bagel Harking to the area’s not-too-distant hipster past, discover a Williamsburgstyle hole-in-the-wall that’s all parquet, brickwork and flashes of groovy neon. It looks cool, and you’re going to linger longer for all-natural, non-dairy piping hot bagels stuffed with unlikely exotica such as kimchi, bacon, cheddar, roasted onions and aioli sauce. It’s sticky, messy and flawlessly brilliant.

NYC has never felt closer. (D6) ul.

Mokotowska 8 Burger Bar Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul.

Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43, burgerbar.waw.pl Kura Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the post-hipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. The ultimate definition of comfort food, look on Kura as one of the city’s best examples of street food culture gone right. (B2) ul. Nowolipki 15, restauracjakura.pl Kur & Wino It’s hard to fault a concept when it’s executed this well. In this case, that means chicken from Podlasie and

Plac Inwalidów 10 | tel. 22 322 82 28 | www.trattoriarucola.pl fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa warsawinsider.pl

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As recommended in the Warsaw Insider's 2019 Best of Warsaw issue!

2019

Pizza Boyz Colors of lipstick pink and electric blue have you thinking you’ve walked into a packet of Skittles – if you don’t have a headache then you will in a second. A satirical comment on the modern world or a fascinating anthropological study of millennial culture? Whatever it is, Pizza Boyz is as in-yer-face as the name may suggest: order extreme pizzas with names like Coke Dope Cheezy Eazy (jalapeno plus Coca Cola BBQ sauce) or the Carolina Reaper, a pizza that boldly claims to the be the hottest on earth. The food isn’t great, but as daft as the concept is, people here have fun. Much against our will, we did as well. (D7) ul. Marszałkowska 17 Pogromcy Meatów Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. (E6) ul.

Koszykowa 1

and ue. hed n ginal ar tes’, or the pork ce of esn’t ect, oodie scalePl. zawa),

Przyjemność It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon. Food, and Californian pizza is the order of day, with wacky choices including Gringo Chicken, a wondrous creation that features dollops of sour cream and guacamole thwacked onto heaps of achiote chicken, jalapeno, coriander and red onion. It sounds daft, but it’s become our fave pizza of the year – and the spritzers are damn good as well. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 68/70, fb.com/ pizzawarszawska

Le Cedre Lounge

t, ist, moer , he ver ad to ess cook.pl

Grzybowska 5A Tel 22 299 7299

Le Cedre 61

(opposite the zoo) Al. Solidarności 61, Praga Tel 22 670 1166

Spoco Loco It begins with a bead of sweat. Then a couple of tears. Then the real pain starts and doesn’t retract until you’ve rolled on the floor and died for twenty minutes.

Spoco Loco’s No. 7 sauce is no laughing matter and should be treated with fear.

But this tiny eatery (it’s essentially one bench) is not founded on gimmicks. The burritos are ably supported by a choice of alternative sauces aimed at people who

Le Cedre 84

(opposite the court) Al. Solidarności 84 Tel 22 618 8999

rsastive ll tc. x

www.lecedre.pl

EAT! Listings

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don’t view dining as an extreme sport.

(H3) ul. Francuska 8 Warburger While Warsaw has lost its appetite for burgers, you wouldn’t necessarily tell by popping in WarBurger. Set inside a diminutive cabin, join the scrum for jazzed-up burgers that use slow-food ingredients. If not the best, they’re most certainly up there. (E9) ul. Dąbrowskiego 1, warburger.pl

desserts Croccante Resistance is futile: surrender to made-on-site cronut creations such as the Philadelphia (strawberry sauce, white chocolate and cheesecake cream) or the Tropicana (mango & passionfruit cream, a shiny mango coating and Malibu with coconut milk), before forever slipping into a pleasing food coma inside a smart interior of glinting gold colors and soft velvet fabrics. (E5) ul. Żurawia 1A Deseo Burakowska Luxury desserts, pralines and tarts served inside an ivy clad building in a leafy post-industrial complex off Burakowska. The contemporary style is reflected by an interior that’s modern, pared down and richly bathed in sloping sunlight. ul. Burakowska 5/7, deseopatisserie.com El Krepel The rather tantalizing donuts include dulce de leche with cinnamon sugar or rich, creamy donuts topped with marshmallows. The work of Łukasz Kawaller (he of Hell’s Kitchen fame) and blogger / photographer / model Justyna Pankowska, it’s a charming, bijou space of fun, frilly style – think pretty pink seats and a wall overlaid with hundreds of rosebuds. (D6) ul. Śniadeckich 12/16 Frank Warszawa Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul.

Polna 18/20

EAT! Listings Kukułka A funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. Widely blogged about, the real reason for the general clamor soon becomes apparent: desserts that lift Warsaw into heavenly directions. Cream puffs are the specialty, but other winners include their brioches, raspberry tarts, blueberry crumbles and whipped cream meringue. ul.

Mokotowska 52 La Vanille Remember when everyone in the world began wolfing down cupcakes? La Vanille was born of that time. Though the general appetite for these dinky treats has waned, the popularity of La Vanille hasn’t. (D5) ul. Krucza 16/22, lavanille.pl Lokal Dela Krem That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. (D5) ul. Hoża 27A Lukullus Founded in 1946, Lukullus have evolved into a funky boutique cafe chain noted for quirky interiors and buzzy atmosphere.

Oh, and desserts. Renouncing short cuts and low-cost ingredients, this family enterprise has earned a name for top quality desserts that see traditional favorites updated for the modern times.

Various locations, lukullus.pl Miss Mellow Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life.

Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. (D5) ul. Wilcza 62 MOD Warsaw has always loved donuts, but it took the arrival of MOD to elevate this humble doughy vice to new levels with a

glam New York-inspired makeover. The mango topped donut is our favorite by miles. (D7) ul. Oleandrów 8

Room the ideal address for expense account meetings.

(E6) Al. Ujazdowskie 13, amberroom.pl

Muus Inside a pretty pink interior adorned with gold trim and big, bold succulents, this bijou space could have been designed with Instagram in mind – and as perfect as it is to look at, it’s even more perfect to nibble on. Caramel brownies, blueberry meringue, pistachio cheesecake, mango & passionfruit tart – the list goes on and makes more than fine reading.

(E3) ul. Tamka 22/24, fb.com/muuswarsaw

Belvedere Łazienki Królewskie Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. (F6) ul. Agrykoli 1, belvedere.com.pl

Odette The original spot for ‘fine dining desserts’, Odette’s cool interior causes attention to naturally fall on the long, sleek counter that occupies one end.

It’s here that sweet creations glint like boutique little jewels. (D4) ul. Górskiego 6/07, odette.pl

fine dining Atelier Amaro If Wojciech Amaro’s eponymous restaurant isn’t the most famous in the country, then it’s certainly the most important.

Awarded Poland’s first Michelin star in 2013, it’s a venue that continues to set the pace in terms of innovation. Changing weekly, his ‘calendar of nature’ seeks to present forgotten ingredients such as little-known berries, herbs and flowers against meats and other ingredients reared or grown at the Atelier farm. One for any bucket list, there are occasions when dining here can feel like an out-of-body experience. Abandoning their original home at the start of 2019, the new location feels a world class venue seemingly designed with a second star in mind. (E5) Pl. Trzech Krzyży 10/14, atelieramaro.pl Amber Room at the Sobański Palace Set in the pre-war Pałac Sobańskich, this pristine manor house is everything you expect: hushed, lavish, cultured and classy. The food fits the backdrop with a contemporary menu often drawing spontaneous outbreaks of collective joy.

Maze-like in its layout, there’s enough nooks and secret rooms to make Amber

Epoka Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space.

Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever: stars await, and anything less would be a miscarriage of justice. (D2) ul. Ossolińskich 3, epoka.restaurant Europejski Grill The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware. Enjoying precisely composed dishes such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a welltailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13, raffles.com/warsaw N31 Been there, done it all. That’s Robert Sowa, a national treasure widely hailed for modernizing Poland’s gastronomic sector back in the country’s culinary dark days. A common sight on TV, the warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings chef’s public profile has meant there’s no shortage of bums on seats in his flagship restaurant, but this is more than a chef trading on his past. A chic city center bubble beloved by business types, the food is first class with Sowa’s international travels reflected by surprises such as flawless tuna partnered with kabayaki sauce, yuzu, wasabi dressing and turnip salad. The flavor combinations are exceptional. (D5) ul. Nowogrodzka 31, n31restaurant.pl

Nolita For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%.

Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit?

Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists: maybe some yuzu with the tartare or konbu with the eel. (D5) ul.

Wilcza 46, nolita.pl

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PamPam Large spaces, high ceilings, globe-shaped bulbs and plush rouge furnishings lend a sense of refinement to PamPam, a feeling that’s in line with a sophisticated menu that promises much with elegantly presented dishes such as sea bass with herbal curry sauce and oyster mushrooms. (C5) ul. Emilii Plater 9/11, pampam. com.pl Platter by Karol Okrasa It’s a fact that Okrasa’s appearances in the kitchen are fleeting and rare, but that’s done nothing to hurt this restaurant’s prestige. Head chef Łukasz Pielak has proved to be a lethal assassin, executing the ideas of his mentor with accuracy and passion. The cooking is detailed, balanced and elegant, with the highlight of our visit being deer in plum sauce. A thing of imperial, velvety richness it’s a dish that turns up the volume on a memorable experience. (C4) ul. Emilii Plater 49 (Hotel InterContinental Warsaw), warsaw.intercontinental.com Senses Diners are best advised to leave logic outside. Inspired by the idea of ‘note-bynote’ cooking, Italian-born chef Andrea Camastra isolates and extracts molecules

from ingredients to obtain the purest flavors before matching them up with unlikely partners. What unfolds is a dazzling show of near illusory brilliance; the technical proficiency of the kitchen is exceptional and makes the steep prices easier to swallow. Wrap-up the evening with a pungent, edible cigar. (C2) ul. Bielańska 12, sensesrestaurant.pl Signature Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy.

Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. (D5) ul. Poznańska 15, signaturerestaurant.pl Szóstka Head to Floor 6 of the swank Hotel Warszawa. There lies Szóstka, a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling. But it’s outside where everyone heads, to a sparsely furnished terrace with killer views of the city below. As for the food, drums please for Dariusz Barański, tipped by some as the next Pole headed for a Michelin star. Over summer, we loved the elegant tomato-

EAT! Listings based starter, the prime beef rib served as a main, and the sorrel and mint parfait that arrived at the end. In this case, the rave reports seem fully justified. (D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl

french

L’Arc Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails.

(E8) ul. Puławska 16, larc.pl

georgian Chmeli Suneli The ‘modern-folk’ interior blends clean colors and exposed brickwork with slanted timber shelving and bright caricatures of Georgian gents: it looks just fab. Then there’s the food: served in clay pots and on thick, wooden boards, the nosh is wholehearted and ideal for early autumn and those long months ahead.

The experience peaks with the presentation of the grilled, skewered shashliks. ul.

Wilcza 26 Rioni Warsaw’s foodies like talking of ‘cursed locations’, and they don’t get more hexed than Mokotowska 17. But despite its history of failed ventures, Rioni feel better placed than most to break the jinx. Set in a curving brick room lit by dangling overhead bulbs, join a young-ish crowd for juicy Georgian dumplings oozing with meat and herbs, hearty soups and big, doughy wheels of cheese-filled chaczapuri. ul. Mokotowska 17 (enter from Pl. Zbawiciela)

Rusiko To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master.

There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

greek & turkish Maho The generic diner decor bothers no-one, and for pretty good reason – the food is thunderbolt good. Get the Iskender: layers of juicy doner meat served with scoops of tomato sauce and fresh pide bread straight from the wood-fired oven. Al. Krakowska 240/242, maho.com.pl Mr. Greek Souvlaki Enticing with its cute, pocket-size dimensions, array of pot plants and navy blue colors, Mr. Greek bubbles with homespun warmth. The menu is a simple work but the quality is outstanding: fluffy pitas wrapped around freshly grilled chicken; skewers of pork; piping hot pots of moussaka; and delicious meatball-style dishes that are devoured within moments.

Warsaw has enjoyed good Greek food before, but now it can offer something even better. A place of authentic hospitality and fabulous food, that this is a labor of love is manifestly obvious from the moment one enters. ul. Londyńska 16 Santorini Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul.

Egipska 7, kregliccy.pl/santorini Sofra A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes:

the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced. An easy place to hang around in, it’s an Insider favorite for drawn-out, boozy dinners. (C6) ul. Wilcza 71, fb.com/sofra.warszawa

indian Bollywood Lounge Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 58, bollywoodlounge.pl Bombaj Masala Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave.

Committed fans should keep in mind their Praga outpost in the Koneser complex, reputed to serve the only ‘Indian tapas’ in the country – we’ll visit soon. (B3) Al. Jana Pawła II 23, bombajmasala.pl Bombaj Masala Praga Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. And when you want it hot, the Kerala lamb curry comes with the capacity to challenge all the senses as it sends you into sniffles of unbridled joy. (G1) ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), bombajmasala.pl/praga Curry House Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings

FOOD HALLS Across Warsaw, everyone is eating together! Join the revolution at the following game changing venues…

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Hala Gwardii Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served by Pieczone Ziemniaki.

Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. (C3) Pl. Mirowska 2, halagwardii.pl

Postępu 5 Christened Mordor by the despairing employees who head there each working day, the area around Domaniewska doesn’t have the best public image. though, there isn’t just hope, but also a solution to realign the spirit of this quarter. Call it Postępu 5, a collection of street vendors housed in a line of former garages and storage units. Highlights inc. Blin (for Russian-style pancakes), Hotto Doggu (Japanese hot dogs), and Roger That Foods, a close quarters burger stop immediately identifiable by the monster smoker set outside. ul. Postępu 5, postepu5.pl

Hala Koszyki Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw. Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates. But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global. Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. (D6) ul.

Koszykowa 63, koszyki.com

Fort 8 Warsaw’s penchant for reviving historical addresses and injecting them with bold food concepts shows no sign of abating: for latest proof, refer to Fort 8, a 19th century Tsarist barracks since reimagined as a complex housing workshops, stores and restaurants. Belonging to the latter group find, among others, Dziurka Od Klucza (already famed for their Powiśle venture), Garo Sushi, Fort Whisky and Fort Bistro. With more openings set to follow, and a location bordering Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów, this could yet emerge as the area’s F&B anchor. ul. Fort Służew 1B, fort8.pl

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

EAT! Listings voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54, curry-house.pl Curry Leaf The post-industrial style is diluted by the number of Indian trinkets hanging off the vents and pipes. Owned by the same crew behind the lauded Curry House, you’d be completely correct to assume the same consistency and excellence. ul.

Conrada 5, curryleaf.pl

Guru Moving into the space vacated by the lamentable BrewDog pub, Guru joins the city’s (very) shortlist of higher end Indians. The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. Plus points for Indian-themed cocktails that really hit the mark – easily one of our favorite openings of 2018. (D4) ul. Widok 8, gururestauracja.pl

by bright, modern interiors and sunny, friendly wait staff, it’s a place that makes a blue day feel that extra bit better. (E8) ul. Belwederska 44

that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts.(D5) ul.

Nowogrodzka 10, bibenda.pl

international

Brasserie Warszawska Looking for classic cuisine with no daft flights of fancy? Here you have it. At a time when everyone wants to be Ferran Adrià, Brasserie has both a menu and interior that you can understand: panfried foie gras; elegant beef Rossini; and sinful apple tarte tatin, all served inside posh interiors of zinc-plated mirrors and chessboard floors. Their Michelin Bib Gourmand is a source of pride, but it’s the number of repeat clients that are the ultimate paean to the skills of the chef.

(E5) ul. Górnośląska 24, brasseriewarszawska.pl

Ale Wino You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. (F5) ul.

Mokotowska 48, alewino.pl Bibenda Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect.

Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations

Bubbles Occupying a small, square room, it’s intimate and relaxed: a place busy with blackboards and bottles, crates and clutter. It radiates warmth and honesty.

The food is exquisite, and includes big, meaty snails farmed in Mazury, and their signature dish: Swiss-style raclette.

Presented on a wooden chopping board, this cheese dish is classic melty goodness, and served alongside a pile of potatoes, onions marinated with caramel and candied pumpkin. Considering the place doubles as a champagne bar the prices are remarkably moderate. (D2) Pl.

House of Curry Heat seekers can ‘enjoy’ a genuine death-by-fire experience at House of Curry, though far milder curries are available for more sensitive palettes – either way, the experience is fantastic, and good news for those stuck out in the depths of Józefów. ul. Patriotów 11 A, house-of-curry.pl Smak Curry There’s been a nationwide pandemic of average Indian restaurants, but despite the rather slim menu Smak Curry can’t be included in that list of disappointments. On the contrary, what the menu lacks in size it compensates in taste: from big, walloping whacks of lavishly spiced pork Madras to sweet but subtle mango chicken, here’s a restaurant that feels it genuinely adds something extra to a saturated market. Complimented

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EAT! Listings Piłsudskiego 9, bubbles.com.pl Bułkę przez Bibułkę Like their other ventures, there’s an enduring feeling of warmth and that’s despite the outsized dimensions: set in one of the hulking PRL leftovers that line Żurawia, the ceilings seemingly reach for miles but so too do the windows, leaving Bułkę basking in the comforting glow of the morning sun. Bristling with palm fronds and pot plants, the place buzzes through the day with clamor, clatter and lively conversation – come here for all-day breakfasts that include the hefty Lumberjack, and check back in March to see if their bakery’s up-and-running. (D5) ul. Żurawia 6/12 Der Elefant This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł.

69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency.

(C3) Pl. Bankowy 1, derelefant.com Dyletanci Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neobistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. (F5) ul. Rozbrat 44A, dyletanci.pl Fest Port Czerniakowski There are those that claim Fest’s best months are in summer, and sure, their argument is convincing: hidden down twisting roads flanked by glinting waters and thick, tangled woodland, it’s an unexpected picture of pastoral bliss. But make no mistake, winter ain’t bad either.

A general restyling hasn’t just given

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this timber cabin a lighter look, but also introduced Agata Wojda as head chef.

Her presence adds a finesse to a place formerly recognized as a primordial celebration of meat and brawn. A hymn to Poland’s rural resources, her cooking bridges fanciful sophistication with homely familiarity. (G6) ul. Zaruskiego 8

GarMasz Combining the functions of a store, butchery and, above all, a restaurant, GarMasz is the creation of Piotr Pielichowski, a cook best-known for his appearances on the Polish edition of Master Chef. A keen promoter of natural ingredients and fancy delicacies, his restaurant is stunning in every respect: three years in the making, even the interiors will blow you away.

Designed by Gdańsk-based architect Krystian Rassmus, details include oak finishes, 18th century tiling and swish chandeliers. (E4) ul. Kopernika 5 Kieliszki Na Hożej Pristine in its whiteness, the corner tenement housing Kieliszki looks like a big wedge of wedding cake. Justly, the interiors are every bit as delicious with their glimmering glass and geometric patterns. All this though pales into insignificance on account of a menu that’s noted for its rich, strident tastes and loving presentation: on this juror’s visit, that meant suckling pig bathed in mustard home brew, and a walloping dessert of honey cake and plum jam.

Our experience was not some one-off: in an area thick with good restaurants, consider Kieliszki as one of the best. (D5) ul. Hoża 41, kieliszkinahozej.pl Kromki Better known for kebab stores and booze outlets, this section of JPII does at times chuck up the occasional surprise: Kromki, for one. The menu is a Jackof-all-trades, with pizza and burgers rubbing shoulders against pierogi, steak and sharing plates. Yet despite the randomness of the choices and the curious location, there’s something here that really strikes the right note. Expect tastes that work inside a informal, casual space that’s fast taking off as a local secret. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 45A

EAT! Listings

Loft Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. (D4) ul. Złota 11, restauracjaloft.pl MOD BEST WAWA 2019“Casual Dining” An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised

by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served

with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers and contributors to Vice. (D6) ul. Oleandrów 8, fb.com/MODOleandrow8 Mokotowska 69 Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. Brought to you by the same team credited for Merliniego 5, Mokotowska’s appreciation of steak has been lifted from their elder sister.

Yet the virtues of this restaurant extend beyond steak alone: on our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a

deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. (E5) ul. Mokotowska 69 Opasły Tom The ground floor – all swanky lighting and navy blue seating – is often packed, so it’s downstairs you may head to an intimate space more reminiscent of the original location formerly found on Foksal: here, it’s about muted colors and reassuring shadow. Characterized by its balanced, nuanced flavors and thoughtful combinations, the first menu to debut at this relaunched restaurant sees a medley of dishes you demand to eat again: pumpkin and curd dumplings served in a cheese sauce being the prime example. (D2) ul.

Wierzbowa 9 Restauracja Warszawska BEST WAWA 2019 “Newcomer” Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue.

Loaded with slick finishes and polished

Dawne Smaki Restaurant Traditional Polish cuisine

Serving traditional Polish dishes of the very highest quality at Dawne Smaki we offer more than just magnificent cuisine. Well linked to both metro lines and easily accessible from all corners of the city, our central location on one of Warsaw’s most prestigious streets is ideal for meetings and events that are sure to make an impact! ul. Nowy Świat 49, tel: 22 465 83 20, info@dawnesmak.pl, www.dawnesmaki.pl

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EAT! Listings raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s not a big menu, but it doesn’t need to be: exceptional in every respect, this restaurant has become one of foodie Warsaw’s biggest talking points.

(D4) Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa), warszawa.hotel.com.pl Rozbrat 20 BEST WAWA 2019“Neo-Bistro” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. (F5) ul.

Rozbrat 20, rozbrat20.com.pl Stixx Wola: what was once a sad, dusty wasteland has blossomed to become the business district of tomorrow. Nowhere symbolizes this evolution as much as Europejski square with its glittering towers and fancy water features. Looking

onto all that is Stixx, a smart, spacious hangout that’s as slick and international as the guests that visit. A well-oiled operation, its diverse menu, professional staff and consistent quality control mark it out as ideal for sealing the deal. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl

tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”.

Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. (G1) Pl. Konesera 1, zoni.today

Supperlardo Run as a side project by Mąka i Woda (quite literally – it’s right next door), it’s a stylish-looking spot that’s fresh, contemporary and even a little edgy: for evidence, refer to a mural designed by Swansky, a local big gun on the street art scene. As for the menu, that’s a riotously meaty romp that involves wood-fired hams, sandwiches composed of pork belly pastrami and salt-cured meats from Puławska and Mangalica pigs. With orders taken at the counter, it’s a place that lifts the canteen concept to new, unseen heights. (D4) ul. Chmielna 13A, fb.com/Supperlardo

italian

Zoni BEST WAWA 2019 “Modern Polish” Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that have been lovingly restored. Sprawling, historic and not short on statement, it’s an address to impress. Incoming chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of

Altro Locale Set in a quiet section of Old Mokotów, it’s little wonder the plaudits haven’t ceased.

Owned by chef Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. You can tell Carillo has invested his heart and soul in this venture, and the result is an ever-changing menu featuring lamb chops, sirloin, and sea bream done the Italian way – don’t think you’ll be getting any pizza here!

Fittingly, its reputation is now extending beyond the district’s natural border. (E8) ul. Willowa 9 Dziurka od Klucza Upping sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team have magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples that go far beyond mere good. This they do in a spectacular vaulted interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.

Fort Służew 1B Focaccia The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. (D2) ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl Mąka i Woda Purists applaud an approach that uses a custom-made oven from Naples and imported ingredients such as 00 Caputo flour and DOP certified San Marzano tomatoes. Scrupulously authentic, it’s no wonder that it’s packed to the gunnels every night of the week – even their

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EAT! Listings Facebook page warns of 20-minute waiting times for a table alone. (D4) ul.

Chmielna 13A Mamma Marietta Mamma Marietta’s new address offers a form that’s bright, engaging and always energetic. Room One: dazzling whites and an open kitchen patrolled with vigor by chef Andrea Scarantino. Room Two: darker, a little more moody and whispery for dates. Both are places in which you’re happy to idle. Start with the lavishly thick Tuscan tomato soup before resisting diversions such as wild boar ragout to instead skip straight to the pizza. The Beddra (mascarpone cheese, flourishes of ham and generous pinches of tomatoes) is awesome. (F5) ul. Górnośląska 24, fb.com/MammaMarietta Posypane A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. In an area already rife with niche eateries aimed at the modern day Varsovian, Posypane feels like a satisfying addition.

(D5) ul. Hoża 43/49 Prosciutteria Powiśle Buzzing with warmth, here an interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork, and black and white images of Italian icons sets a casually good mood that’s sustained by the owners.

They’re knowledgeable, as well. If Prosciutteria feels good, then it tastes even better. Based around cold cuts, find heavy wooden boards loaded with imported delicacies from small producers that the couple have befriended: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; pork belly fat dry-cured for six months; salami from Milan and Naples… There’s more, of course, but it all becomes one in this orgy of pleasure. (F4) ul. Solec 85 Trattoria Rucola The secret at this chain enterprise?

Despite a cut & paste interior (white tables against forest-themed wallpaper)

the underlying and consistent quality has you thinking you’re dining somewhere unique. Find a vast selection of pizzas and other Italian standards cooked to a level that never falls below high. ul.

Francuska 6, Krucza 6/14, Miodowa 1, Klimczaka 1 & Inwalidów 10, trattoriarucola.pl

japanese Arigator This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well.

From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. (D6) ul.

Piękna 54

‘Simplicity, elegance and atmosphere’

Cafe • Wine Bar • Restaurant • Whisky Bar • Wine Cellar ul. Hoża 25A, tel. 515 037 001 www.hoza.warszawa.pl www.facebook.com/hoza25 Open 12:00-23:00, Sun 12:00-21:00

Mugi More and more Japanese ventures are proving there is life beyond sushi, and Mugi is one such place. Specializing in ramen noodles and kushiage skewers (battered meat and veg served on a stixk), further bonuses include Choya liqueurs and a fun design that’s not short on Manga graphics. (D5) ul. Wspólna 37/39 Sakana Sushi & Sticks It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is.

Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. (D2) ul.

Moliera 4/6, sakana.pl Sato Gotuje Signposted by its own splash of Mangastyle art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget.

Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices warsawinsider.pl

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EAT! Listings and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24 Shoku Most places that claim to serve fusion do so because of an identity crisis. At Shoku, though, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton.

(A4) ul. Karolkowa 30, shoku.pl Uki Uki How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, ukiuki.pl Wabu Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. (A4) Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire), wabu.pl Yatta Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. (E3) Bartoszewicza 3, fb.com/YattaBowl

korean The Cool Cat Proving something other than just a faddish flash in the fire, The Cool Cat has caught the zeitgeist by the horns

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and come to represent the hip Powiśle style; casual and convivial and absent of aloofness, it’s a place in which all life seems to gather for a taste of good times.

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food: the K-Fries (a big messy mass of kimchi, chips, bulgogi beef) are spot on.

(F4) ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8) KoreaTown Rest Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. (E9) ul. Olesińska 2, fb.com/KoreaTownRest Sora Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself.

(A4) ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish

Ceviche Bar BEST WAWA 2019 “Ethnic Dining” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche – raw fish marinated in citrus juices and cilantro – is the default order, with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South

America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the the salmon tiraditos: served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

mexican El Popo Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. (C2) ul.

Senatorska 27 Gringo Bar A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. (E9) ul. Odolańska 15, gringobar.pl La Sirena You don’t even have to think twice when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. (D5) ul. Piękna 54

middle eastern Kumin One of the big hits of 2018 is back open, this time in new digs on Gagarina. Casual and easy on the eye, features of the new

EAT! Listings

FOOD & DRINK AT KONESER

Koneser Bar 3/4 Bombaj Masala Praga Columbus Coffee Ferment Praski Frankie’s Koneser Grill Moxy Hotel Bar ORZO Papa Diego Pijalnia Czekolady E. Wedel Syreni Śpiew Koneser Van Dog WuWu Bistro & Vodka Bar ZONI

FOR THE KONESER… Warsaw’s finest culinary beacon continues to shine a light on Praga…

Every once in a while along comes a concept that blows Warsaw’s collective mind – a place that changes the trajectory of the city by giving it a fresh set of wings: now welcomed into that fold is Centrum Praskie Koneser, a project that has galvanized the right rump of the capital and given credence to its growing reputation as the place to be.

Forming a key cornerstone of that has been a social offer that has made it the largest food and drinks hub in the city.

Naturally, this shouldn’t come as a surprise given its former life as one of the biggest producers of vodka in the country.

Now revived as an enthralling mixed-use development, a significant portion of the historic redbrick buildings that once housed the Koneser Vodka Factory have been given over to F&B outlets that have set a new standard in atmosphere and quality: from Ferment Praski's nostalgic Polish classics and the stunning interiors of Zoni (named one of the seven most beautiful restaurants in the world), to the gentrified Indian street tastes of Bombaj Masala Praga, there’s enough choice here to keep lovers of good living in permanent rapture. And that’s before exploring the nocturnal angle at such game-changing venues such as Syreni Śpiew Koneser. Though it currently remains unclear how long the bar and restaurant shutdown may last, all agree that it’ll be a weekend to remember once the doors again open for business as usual.

Centrum Praskie Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu Parking from ul. Białostocka and Ząbkowska

Insider’s Pick WUWU BISTRO & VODKA BAR Wedged between the Zoni restaurant and the Polish Vodka Museum lies this long, narrow treasure. Famed equally for its vodka menu as it’s choice of modernized Polish dishes, find the spirit of Poland encapsulated inside a classy yet understated interior designed by one of the country’s most prominent architects: Mirosław Nizio.

To a background of glowing glass blocks and illuminated tube lights, sip on boutique vodkas and beguiling house cocktails whilst enjoying reimagined classics such as goose dumplings or enriching beef tripe soup.

Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

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EAT! Listings address include a woodsy outdoor terrace and a laidback vibe set to a permanent state of chill. The food? Wow. Few places do a better job of replicating the aromatic taste of Middle Eastern lamb. (F8) ul. Gagarina 33

carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. (B3) Al. Solidarności 84, lecedre.pl

out for look out for Iraqi-style scrambled eggs with dates, not to mention generous tahini bowls cascading with juicy chunks of chicken, and traditional coffee heated in a pan of sand. (C5) ul. Wilcza 26, fb.com/ TahinaWilcza

polish Le Cedre With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer.

Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. (E1) Al. Solidarności 61, lecedre.pl

Le Cedre 84 Le Cedre just keep on getting it right.

Authenticity is key in this chainlette (well, there’s another two to pick from), as you’ll discover when talking to Tony, the Lebanese owner. To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot).

And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that

Le Cedre Lounge Furnished in voluptuous Middle Eastern style, the latest subsidiary of the Le Cedre empire bursts with fancy sheesha pipes, extravagant rugs and shimmery satin drapes. It’s a look that’s fun, familiar, intimate and warm. Less encyclopedic than that of its two sister ventures, Le Cedre Lounge has a slimmer menu that introduces several new tastes to fans of Lebanese cuisine. Helplessly more-ish, it’s food that’s in line with the vibey atmosphere and casual air. (C4) ul.

Grzybowska 5A, lecedre.pl Tahina There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap. Contained within a featherlight lavash, the 36-hour slowcooked beef all but melts in the mouth.

One bite and you’ve found heaven. In a city where eating Middle Eastern cuisine still has the feeling of a high risk game of roulette, Tahina hits the jackpot. Look

Bez Gwiazdek BEST WAWA 2019 “Best Chef” BEST WAWA 2019“Tasting Menu” While Bez Gwiazdek rejects the core principles of fine dining, don’t for one minute expect anything less than food that whispers refined sophistication.

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the standard Polski feast. Just when you thought you had worked out the nation’s cuisine, along comes Robert Trzópek to rewrite the rules. (E3) ul. Wiślana 8, bezgwiazdek.com.pl Bistro Pod Sowami Talk of Praga’s revival feels a bit more serious now that Bistro Pod Sowami has opened. From the outside, this corner tenement is a study in neo-gothic indulgence. On the inside, the muted elegance is perfectly partnered by cooking that sees traditional Polish given a modern reinvention. But will they survive the recent departure of chef Damian Wajda – we’ll be watching closely. (F1) ul. Okrzei 26, fb.com/bistropodsowami Czerwony Wieprz An amusing restaurant that looks back at communism through a rose-tinted lens.

Under the glowering gaze of commie tyrants, staff dressed like obedient members of the party’s Youth League deliver hefty dishes from a cheeky menu that is in itself a collector’s item. (B3) ul. Żelazna 68, czerwonywieprz.pl Dawne Smaki The atmospheric interiors hark to bygone years, while in sunnier times the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around a few months just

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EAT! Listings to see it. Specializing in traditional cuisine, the deer steak is recommended by all who try it. (D4) ul. Nowy Świat 49 Delicja Polska Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant.

But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. (D6) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 64, delicjapolska.pl Dom Polski Almost like it was designed for the manor born, Dom Polski has the rarefied atmosphere of a country retreat: bow-tied staff who click their heels, decorative antiques and a menu that’s a sumptuous anthology of posh Polish cooking. When you need to give visitors a sense of classic Warsaw, Dom Polski is the first out of the hat. (H4)

ul. Francuska 11, restauracjadompolski.pl Dom Polski Belwederska Accessed via curling pathways and bursting shrubs this restaurant conjures images of an aristocrat’s manor. The air of privilege matches a menu that’s rich in fanciful classics such as their signature goose. Elegant and exquisite, consider it your default choice for a taste of true Poland. (F8) ul. Belwederska 18A Elixir by Dom Wódki There are some who call the food here ‘deconstructed Polish’. In actuality, 'reconstructed' would be closer to the mark. The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings.

Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known,

boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. (C2) ul. Wierzbowa 9/11, domwodki.pl Folk Gospoda If you missed the last train to Zakopane, then a night in Folk Gospoda is the next best thing. Kitted out like a typical tavern in the Tatras, it’s a good-humored celebration of mountain-slope traditions: heaps of meat and lard with plenty of vodka and song in between. (B3) ul.

Waliców 13, folkgospoda.pl Kieliszki na Próżnej You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a

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Traditional Polish Cuisine,

Ĺťurek

(traditional sour rye soup)

Golonka

(roast pork knuckle)

Placki Ziemniaczane

(potato pancake with gulash)

We serve Polish dishes on hot pans and sizzling cast iron and are winners of many culinary competitions Hand making our own pierogi since 1913 Pierogi z owocami Fruit dumplings

but don’t miss the pierogi OUR LOCATIONS IN WARSAW U L . K R A KO W S K I E P R Z E D M I E Ś C I E 5 5 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 7 2 0 4 U L . N O W Y Ś W I AT 6 4 | T E L . 2 2 6 9 2 4 1 3 5 AL. JEROZOLIMSKIE 28 | TEL. 22 826 7484 U L . F R E TA 1 | T E L . 2 2 8 3 1 6 1 9 0 UL. ŚWIĘTOJAŃSKA 13 | TEL. 22 635 6109 U L . F R E TA 1 8 | T E L . 2 2 6 3 5 7 9 5 9

EAT! Listings modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. It’s pure seasonal comfort. (C3) ul. Próżna 12, kieliszkinaproznej.pl Kuchnia Czerowny Rower Identified by the red bike hanging outside, this canteen-style affair is an antidote to the rampant monetization of Praga.

Aiming to get those with social problems back on track, this social project hands the initiative back to those down on their look by providing employment in their kitchen. Simple but effective in its style, it’s one of the cheapest feeds around. (F1) ul. Targowa 82 LAS This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. As for food, then familiarize yourself with Anna Klajmon. Having made her bones at Grunt i Woda, her farm-to-fork philosophy has followed her here. Cooking with an air of freedom, there’s a natural goodness to her menu that belies the modest pricing. Highly seasonal, on our visit that meant gorgeous oxtail pierogi with peanut butter and hazelnut sauce.

Don’t mix the ‘local cocktails’, either. (F4) ul. Solec 44, fb.com/las.warszawa Le’pię In a restaurant that feels pure and feminine with its pristine tilework, gold cutlery and pastel pink finishes, the dumpling is given a remarkable, artisanal makeover.

Handmade with love, find unlikely fillings such as pear and peach complimented by a pour of honey-ginger syrup, or black pudding squashed in with cranberry and crispy shallots. It’s all quite brilliant, in fact, brilliant enough to feature in a BBC travel segment aired over Christmas. (E3) ul. Topiel 12 Lobo Bistro Accessed via a striking glass-ceilinged courtyard, Lobo presents itself in two parts: the first, a dark, fern-colored dining room with a show-stealing tree installation; and the second, a more spacious area high on natural light and soft, blond wood.

The approach to contemporary Polish

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cuisine is intelligent, the thought process clear, and the execution unblemished with dishes like beef loin on pureed parsley proving every bit as good as they should.

In an unexpected plus, it’s unlikely you’ll find a restaurant with a better portfolio of artesian cider. (D6) ul. Noakowskiego 16

back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106, restauracjastarydom.pl

Polana Smaków Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. Desserts are a sin and have, in the past, included a boozy donut soaked in punch and puffed to extreme with a blast of vanilla cream. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. (C5) ul. E. Plater 14, polanasmakow.pl

Świętoszek Tartuffe A subterranean venue set with arcing brick walls and polished bits of fancy, it’s elegant enough for something special yet casual enough for walk-ins.

A place of hospitality, human warmth and big, heartfelt tastes, the Insider’s December visit involved premium tartare revealed from under a smoking glass dome; pumpkin soup to die for; and deer steak with juniper sauce.

Conclude with the Kajmak cake, a modernized version of the original 1986 recipe. You leave having eaten well and enjoyed every minute. ul. Jezuicka 6/8, swietoszek.pl

Podwale Kompania Piwna The generosity of the portions does nothing to disguise the mediocrity of the cooking, but despite the so-so nature of the quality there’s an intensely lovable quality to Podwale that’s underlined by its boisterous, beer hall atmosphere and a lively inner courtyard designed to mimic a Mitteleuropa town square. Prowling mountain bands top off the atmosphere nicely. (D1) ul. Podwale 25

Pyzy Flaki Gorące Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budgetminded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. (G1) Brzeska 29/31 Schabowy The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1, fb.com/ schabowy.warszawa Stary Dom A classic restaurant in style and history:

The Farm Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry: simply but beautiful. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. Boosting the homespun charm are wall paintings depicting pastoral scenes from pre-war Prussia. (D7) ul.

Mokotowska 8, the-farm.pl Wuwu Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic illustrations lend a slick smartness to this narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food that connects vodka with the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw.

With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), wuwu.bar

EAT! Listings Drink! and specifically customized for the season.

(D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj 20, barandbooks.pl

Zapiecek Reginabar Seven locales, with ourat ReginaHip andWarsaw happening, the concept favorite found amalgam in the vaulted bar is a wacky that passages mixes eleof Świętojańska.

TheLittle menuItaly is highly ments of New York’s with China traditional, withThe courses to find Town next door. menu‘cooked rocks, but It’s for the pierogi itgrandma’s augmentedrecipes’. by a dynamic cocktail list though for which they’re famous; find in that reflects the crazy things happening approx. fifty types delivered bymeans, serversthe Warsaw’s world of drinks: that dressedsips likeaside, saucy‘magic country maids. with regular cocktails’ Locations NowySpells Świat and 64, Al. names suchinc. asul.

Power Star Jerozolimskie 28,mysterious, Freta 18, Freta & up Dust.

Dazzly and lap 1these 13 &joins ul. Wańkowicza 1, the inŚwiętojańska an interior that the retro with zapiecek.eu avant garde. (E6) ul. Koszykowa 1, fb.com/ Reginakoszykowa1

Zielony Niedźwiedź A sanctuary The Roots of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long,recruited dark shadows and discreet Having some of the top bartenddecorative touches: From theaoutset, ers in Poland, The Roots have serious you’re made to feel that good things willis artillery on which to rely.

So committed happen, and they Certified this haunt, its this walls aredo. graced by aby vast Poland’s fledgling food movement, collection of cocktailslow memorabilia: antique the menu gives star billing supplijiggers, shakers, coolers, nottotothe mention

ers that keep the pantry full; the truth an original signed copy of thebut world’s first is these aren’t the only heroes.1862!).

Taking (C2) the cocktail handbook (published: reins in June,11 new chef Oliwia Bernady ul. Wierzbowa has grown in stature and skill preparing aWarmut daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes theCommie real tastes (E4) ul.

Set intothe eraof NoPoland.

Man’s Land Smolna kafezn.pl and Konstytucji, between4,Zbawiciela it’s become one of the hottest nights in town. This vermouth-inspired cocktail bar features classic and house creations, and a spectacular design involving street art, greenery and mirrored walls. But the piece de resistance? Those are the scale models of local landmarks that hang from the ceiling. Instagram them now before everyone else does. And don’t forget to L’Arc head up the stairs to their cool little sister, Plucked alive and(D6) kicking from a burbling Gram (see Bars). ul. Marszałkowska fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are 45/49 among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other Weles choices in thisthe elegant, Named after Slavicmonochrome god of the venue includeeverything six kinds of oysters and a underworld, about Weles bouillabaisse to blow your mind.a(E8) evokes the spirit of indulgence: zincul.

Puławska 16, larc.pl 1920s ceiling imported from the States,

seafood

Lokal na Rybę a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar Open forfrom something along the lines of carved a British carousel.

A work 18-hours week (!), the limited times of refinedper craftsmanship, the cocktails have created supply demand situation stand out asathe most/sophisticated in that almost ul. Nowogrodzka 11 mandathe makes city. (D5)reservations tory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a popup, the simple surrounds are outweighed by a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. (D9) ul.

Kwiatowa Artezan 1/3/4, Pub fb.com/lokalnarybe The country has crazier breweries Ufor Rysia sure, but does it have anyone Devoid of frills barthan a glowing neon more consistent the lads at sign and a brooding mural of Jesus, it looks Artezan.

Famed for their Pacific – the like a Polish fishdomestic restaurant – basic quintessential IPAshould – Artezan’s but with an undercurrent bustle not that flagship bar is a standardofbearer keeps thequality, mood but bright. tastesas like just for for It Poland a the real thing asul. Moniuszki well. Sourcing whole.

(D4) 1A their catch from the freshwater lakes of northern Poland, the offer is divided into fish that Chmielarnia have been smoked, steamed, friedthe or Musty, muggy, murky.

Head into baked.

Check out the ‘chips’institute fried in basement depths of perch the fishing batter.

(C4) ul.Chmielarnia, Marszałkowska 140 (enter to discover a subterrafrom Rysia), urysia.com.pl neanul.tap bar where artisan beers rule

craft beer

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EAT! Listings specialty food shops Bazar Olkuska Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian sausages and fresh fruit and veg. (E10) ul. Olkuska 12 Befsztyk The Prokopowicz family has come a long way since launching Befsztyk in 1994. Top restaurants, celebs and ex-pats are listed as clients, and all agree that this operation is indisputably ‘top of the chops’. Find steaks seasoned for three weeks, glutenfree smoked meats, Merino lamb, BBQ kits and so much more. Home delivery, internet ordering and English-speaking staff round out this legend. many locations, befsztyk.pl BioBazar With its previous home in Wola undergoing a substantial redevelopment, the BioBazar has moved to Mokotów. At the forefront of Poland’s food revolution, it’s a place that shines a light on ecologically certified goods and produce. Fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... on it goes. Comprehensive in its

pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot. ul. Wołoska 3, biobazar.com.pl (B4) ul. Żelazna 51/53, biobazar.org.pl

the likes of Fentimans and Galvanina complete the quite extraordinary lineup. ul. Duchnicka 3, facebook.com/kram. nativeingredients

Dobrze Co-op The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture.

Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27, dobrze.waw.pl

steak houses

Forteca Kregliccy Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. ul. Zakroczymska 12, kregliccy.eu/forteca Kram A supermarket worth your time. Putting small scale producers to the fore, find veggies courtesy of the Majlert farm and grocer Pan Ziołko, daily deliveries from the Mąka i Woda bakery, dairy courtesy of Mleczna Droga, and several cult Polish brands such as Concept Stu Mostów.

Craft beers, bio wines, and softs from

Beef n’ Pepper Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which blackshirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper that translates to a decent choice of surf’n’turf. Highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. (C5) ul. Nowogrodzka 47A, beefandpepper.pl BykBar Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. For full review, see p. TK. (F6) ul. Rozbrat 8, fb.com/bykbar Butchery & Wine When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital – bookings are advised. (D5) ul. Żurawia 22, butcheryandwine.pl Ed Red Warszawa You can tell they’re serious about their meat just by looking at the starters: big, juicy marrow bones, mountain oysters, blood sausage and calf’s brain.

The steaks are the calling card though, and here you’ll find them dry aged and consumed with the aid of hunting knives.

The desserts seem a lumpy afterthought, but they get enough right elsewhere

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EAT! Listings

VEGAN Recognized by the HappyCow portal as the sixth most vegan friendly city in the world, the Insider slashes through Warsaw’s fifty plus choices to bring you the cream of the crop…

Edamame Vegan Sushi Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s restaurant rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. Edamame Vegan Sushi ul. Wilcza 11 Falla ul. Oboźna 9 Both pricing and location combine to keep this venue blocked solid with a muddled mass of students from the uni nearby. Looking simple, maybe even spartan, crowds flock to this corner unit for recipes inspired by the Middle East and Asia: huge wraps tightly packed with pungent kimchi; generous pans brimming with shakshouka; and an array of hummus in unfamiliar forms – chipotle, coriander, carrot and more.

Krowarzywa Tatts, hats and plaid shirts aplenty in Krowarzywa: a survivor of the hipster era, for many it’s the epitome of Warsaw’s vegan scene. The burgers set a benchmark that all but a few can surpass. (D5) ul. Marszałkowska 27/35, ul.

Hoża 29/31 and Hala Gwardii, krowarzywa.pl Kuchnia Konfliktu First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. (D5) ul. Wilcza 60

Leonardo Verde Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint.

Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. (D5) ul. Poznańska 13, fb.com/ leonardo.verde.restaurant

Lokal Vegan Bistro Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. (D5) ul. Krucza 23/31, lokalveganshop.com Momencik Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key credit to its name: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent (ooh, pineapple). (D5) ul. Poznańska 16, fb.com/ momencik Tel Aviv A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. (D5) ul. Poznanska 11, restauracjatelaviv.pl Vegan Ramen Shop Prior to opening the management traveled Asia to track down the best ramen joints before heading back to Poland and trying to ‘veganize’ what they saw. Woah.

These complex bowls of restorative goodness have been described as ‘world class’ by HappyCow, and this they are.

Enjoy your noodles inside cool interiors filled with cute Japanese props on dozens of ‘levitating shelves’. (G3) ul.

Finlandzka 12A Uki Green Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. ul. Koszykowa 49A Youmiko Vegan Sushi Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. (D5) ul. Hoża 62, youmiko.vg

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EAT! Listings (even decent craft beer at the bar) to keep that little more than a mild annoyance.

(B3) Pl. Mirowski 1, edred.pl Hoża Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. (D5) ul. Hoża 25A, hoza.warszawa.pl Koneser Grill In line with the rebooted factory surroundings, the interior opens out to present a space that feels industrial at its core but not short on smart, chic details: smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors. As the firewood stacked under the kitchen counter suggests, fire is central to the plot with the menu little more than a full-blooded foray into carnivorous worlds. But away from the meaty grill dishes there’s also plenty of sophistication: delicate quail Scotch eggs, grilled Fine de Claire oysters and grilled octopus served with duck hearts. (G1) ul.

Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser), konesergrill.pl Mięsny What’s not to like about a butcher, deli and bistro all rolled into one meaty treat.

Set down a leafy side street in posh Saska Kępa, this Saska Keeper presents a handful of wooden tables inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals – if you’re vegan, shoot yourself now. Typed onto a sheet of paper, the menu is an atavistic joyride that arouses primal, caveman urges: sweetbreads with chestnut puree; bone marrow with parsley salad; duck rillettes; and Red Angus steaks of every description. Nothing disappoints. ul. Walecznych 64, miesny.pl

thai Bangkok Soi In terms of interior design, find no

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more than some Chang beer pennants, Muangthong United football scarves, and film posters with unidentifiable titles.

Strangely, however, the basic look feels pleasingly honest. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, find vigorously spiced red curry, Som Tam salad containing hard-to-find ingredients such as green papaya, and Tom Sap soup loaded with lemongrass, galangal, kaffir lime leaves and tomato. In this whir of full-throated flavors, it’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. (B2) Al. Jana Pawła II 50 Thaisty The most successful business model pioneered in recent years? That’s the work of Thaisty, a bright, cheerful spot with a ‘street style’ and moderate prices – queues, at times, stretch out the door.

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. (C2) Pl. Bankowy 4, thaisty.pl

russian & ukrainian Kanapa Ukrainian food gets a fine dining makeover inside a plush villa that’s all sweeping staircases and theatrical chandeliers. Rich and raucous in some parts, refined and delicate in others, the food is a credit to the cunning of the chef. (E8) ul. Narbutta 10, fb.com/kanapa. restauracja Rest.Baczewskich Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv.

Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in. (E7) Al. Szucha 17/19, baczewskich.rest

vietnamese Oh My Pho A busy, family-run joint, OMP’s specific claim to fame is what many are terming the best and most authentic pho in the ward. Steamy and aromatic, this is pho as it should be: full of big herby thwacks, ribboning noodles, and soft strips of meat in a clear, restorative stock. Often cited as being the ‘soul of the nation’, just a few noisy slurps are all that’s needed to corroborate the life-affirming goodness of this beautiful broth... (D5) ul. Wilcza 32, fb.com/ohmyphowilcza Tran Tran It looks promising enough, with dark woods and images of paddy fields mixing with the reassuring clatter of an open kitchen, and so it proves with the arrival of the food: just to really grab you by the nuts and prod you into reaction, look no further than the beef served in a velvety ooze of mango. It’s a dish of simple clarity and vibrant freshness. Faithful in their presentation of Vietnam, Tran Tran’s a very solid addition to this maturing ethnic category. (E5) ul. Wilcza 20, fb.com/ restauracjatrantran Vietnamka Infused with a gentle sense of chaos (drinks after mains, mains before starters), there’s a certain charm at work that feels authentic and convincing. As for the food, you suspect that’ll be ’nam good when TV chef Kurt Scheller wonders in for a take-out. And boy, yes it is. Squiggled onto a crumpled sheet of paper, menu items include giant bowls of warming pho, steamed goat with lemongrass and more-ish spring rolls. Exceptional in every respect, the cooking here sails Warsaw’s Asian scene into uncharted waters. (D5) ul. Poznańska 7, fb.com/ VietnamkaPoznanska Viet Street Food Bistro What started out as a roaming food truck has settled down into life as a legitimate restaurant. Widely looked upon as the source of some of the best Vietnamese chow this city’s ever seen, the small menu contains steaming bowls of pho and banh mi baguettes loaded with meat and greens: both are brill. (H4) ul. Królowej Aldony 5/2, fb.com/vietstreetfoodpl

First Sips

YOU’RE GROUNDED!

Locking down doesn’t mean locking out those little pleasures that make life better. Where some cafes have responded to the coronavirus pandemic by shutting shop, a smaller number have resisted, opting instead to explore new channels in a bid to salvage something from the crisis. In this respect, Cophi lead the line by not just offering a takeaway service but also vouchers for brighter times as well as deliveries of coffee equipment and beans. Featuring a range of so-called ‘Stay At Home’ sets, these kits come not just with bags of specialty coffee plus the requisite cups and filters, but also a 20-minute crash course with the head barista, Łukasz Gałęcki. Conducted face-to-face via Skype, it’s a unique chance to learn from the best without changing from a vest! Cophi ul. Hoża 58/60, cophi.pl

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drink!

Biała

ul. Francuska 2 A pristine dove-colored interwar villa plays home to Biała, a venue whose signature piece is an outdoor spiral staircase leading to an attractive back garden – off-limits for the duration of the shutdown, make do instead with coffee to go from their Nuova Simonelli machine.

Fat White

ul. Andersa 6 Upping Andersa’s cool factor to impossible heights, Fat White have chosen to take their show on the road. Zap them on Facebook, Insta or via coffeeandsons.pl and co-owner Piotr will set out on his wife’s bike to deliver coffee wherever you are in the city. “We might have to change our name to Fit White,” he jokes. Contactless delivery and pre-ground beans are an added plus.

Forum

ul. Elektoralna 11 As it stands Forum are open through the week from 10 a.m. till 10.30 a.m. and 5 p.m. to 5.30 p.m. as well as on weekends from 10 a.m. till 2 p.m. Selling beans, contraptions and coffee to go, you’re in safe hands here – co-owner Sławek is Poland’s reigning Brewers Cup champion.

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE FACEBOOK, OPPOSITE PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA

Fabryczna

ul. Fabryczna 28/30 Seemingly vital to the everyday social dynamics of Powiśle, Fabryczna have faced up to the current events by opening a street side ‘hatch of life’ through which they’ll pass everything on their menu. Operating between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m., swing by for homemade banana bread, fruit smoothies and the best specialty coffee in the immediate locality.

Hałas

ul. Jagiellońska 30 A legend on the left bank, Hałas have earned a stellar by combining twin duties as a vinyl record store and specialty coffee stop. Served through a barred window (hey, welcome to Praga!), pay by card and receive in return coffee sourced from London-based roasters Dark Arts Coffee.

SOMETHING SWEET!

Jaskółka

Pl. Wilsona 4 Brilliant vegan lunch deals brought to your door aren’t the only attraction of Jaskółka. Each day from 12 onwards make a beeline here for coffee and the best bagel in the north of the city. Pl. Wilsona wouldn’t be the same without the presence of Jaskółka.

Kawiarnia Kawałek

ul. Łucka 18 Supporting local means getting behind guys like Armand at Kawałek. Prior to coronavirus (blimey, that feels a lifetime ago), the chief attraction was a handmade nitro machine, now, it’s a same-day, contactless service that sees beans delivered to your door from the likes of Coffee Pirates Vienna and Girls Who Grind Coffee. Add in zł. 11 for the delivery cost.

Relaks

ul. Puławska 48 Operating from 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. this café has attained a near mythical status in Warsaw for its retro style, vintage poster art and kick ass coffee. One of the oldest specialty coffee joints in Poland, you can also support them in their hour of need by buying vouchers for future use at: lunchnext.com/relaks.

Relax Na Wilczej

ul. Wilcza 17 It didn’t take long for Relax Na Wilczej to earn a golden reputation, and now you can do them a favor in return by snapping up 250 gram packs of coffee from roasters such as Coffeelab, Shokunin and Rusty Nails Coffee Roasters.

Delivered to your door and discounted by 10% (15% if buying three bags or more), they’ll even grind the beans prior according to your preference.

Stor

ul. Tamka 33 For many, Stor represents the very pinnacle of the city’s coffee scene. A flagbearer for everything right, they’re open for takeout coffee passed through the doorway.

Facing liquidity issues, give them a boost by buying vouchers ranging from zł. 50 to zł. 500. If the city loses Stor, then we might as well all give up now.

Editorial note:

Information given was correct at press time. Due to the fluid nature of the situation, stated opening hours and offers are liable to change.

Aromat

Various locations Produced on the day, Aromat offer contactless deliveries of breads, baguettes and croissants to the city center, Mokotów, Ochota, Wola, Żoliborz and Saska Kępa. Order 48-hrs in advance from: bit.ly/ aromatdelivery

Deseo

Various locations Also continuing are Deseo, which is a pretty good thing given the quality of their ice cream (Insider lockdown fave: strawberry & mint), and the pretty desserts that gleam like jewels (top top: In Azia, a mango-passionfruit thingy with a soft, delicious center).

Kukułka

ul. Mokotowska 52 Contactless deliveries or personal pick-up available of cakes, desserts, tarts and cream puffs – the latter are their best-seller for a reason. One of the best debuts of 2019 and well-deserving of your full support.

Lukullus

Various locations Established in 1946, this family-run business is renowned for fancy cakes and desserts that see various classics tinkered and adapted for both the modern palette and aesthetic trends.

Muus

ul. Tamka 22/24 Opened last year, Muus were set for great things before the coronavirus threw a spanner in the works – find out why by ordering online. Minimum spend: zł. 100.

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drink! Listings bars & pubs The Alchemist A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale pub grub from the British chef, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers.

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink seems so very right. (D3) Pl. Piłsudskiego 3, thealchemist.pl Bar Pacyfik Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. (C5) ul. Hoża 61

PARTNER

SPOTLIGHT

Bar Studio The dehumanizing dimensions of the Palace of Culture are softened in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into a quasi-party zone. Should it rain, seek shelter under the covered colonnades: there’s room for everyone. And with no nearby residents to pester, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Inside, the gaudy, echoey interiors are juxtaposed against an arty events program that includes book launches, silent discos, communal breakfasts and gramophone nights. (C4) Pl. Defilad 1, barstudio.pl

Beirut & Kraken Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style

Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. (D5) ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

Foton It’s good, seriously good. Part of that is down to a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed: think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad, either. Pimped up Latin American street food is the order of the day, and it all rhymes well with a drinks menu involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. The later it gets, the better it is.

(E5) ul. Wilcza 9A, fb.com/foton.bar

Gram Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come

Meet Your Matcha!

Located in the heart of Mokotów is the HQ and showroom of Moya Matcha, a JapanesePolish firm specializing in the import of organic Japanese matcha and leaf teas, handmade ceramics and elegant gift sets.

We’re particularly pleased to introduce visitors to Moya, a brand of organic tea from Uji and Kagoshima, regions celebrated for their clean air and superb tea growing conditions. Co-founded by Hitomi Saito, his vision has helped popularize a thousand-years of eastern tradition among an entirely new European audience. But you might already know that! Drinks and desserts based on Moya matcha have already become a cult sensation at such venues as MOD, The Cool Cat, Lukullus and Frank – find our entire collection online at moyamatcha.com.

Moya Matcha ul. Karłowicza 9A, moyamatcha.com

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In accordance with the law, as of press time bars, pubs and clubs were forbidden from opening whilst cafes were permitted only to offer offer carry-out or delivery services with on-site consumption strictly forbidden. Though highly unlikely, due to the dynamic nature of the situation, we have maintained a skeletal set of nightlife listings in the hope that circumstances may change for the better.

on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... (D6) ul. Marszałkowska 45/49 Koko & Roy Somewhere along the line Koko & Roy have blossomed into one of the Insider’s favorite weekend nights. With its quirky-cool design, multinational crowd and funky sounds, it’s the kind of place you hit pre-club before deciding to drop the club bit altogether. And in the event that things are slow, you can rely on the owners to grab the evening by the horns and lead you down a murky rabbit hole involving off-the-cuff cocktails and offbeat conversation. Before you know it, by God, is it really nearly three? (D5) ul. Wilcza 43, kokoandroywarsaw.com

Legends Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and

devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch.

Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. (C5) ul.

Emilii Plater 25, legendsbar.pl

Plan B Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw.

Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. (D6) ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela), planb.pl

Stixx A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their offices

once the clock strikes five. Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for winter, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. (A4) Pl. Europejski 4A, stixx.pl Świetlica Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom.

Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

Targowy God knows what their secret potion is, but it’s probably something to do with a democratized offer that has something for all: craft beers, hardcore vodkas, decent cocktails and a staff that’s friendly, enthusiastic and always ready with a one-liner. The design is basic (plastic

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drink! Listings crates, blue lights), but they don’t need anything more to make it feel special. (B3)

cocktails

Pl. Mirowski 1

W Oparach Absurdu Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, scriptwriting beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra.

Expect the unexpected. (F1) ul. Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

Warszawa Powiśle The prime months for this former ticket booth arrive each summer when the deckchairs outside provide ample opportunity for the city’s young and fashionable to gather in an almost carnival-like atmosphere. Once seen as the hipster Center of Power, it still maintains great popularity with whiskered, tattooed sorts. (E4) ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B, warszawapowisle.pl

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card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes.

(C4) ul. Twarda 4, cevichebar.pl

Biała Saska’s premier cocktail spot reaches the peak of its powers each summer thanks to an attractive back garden that sits in the shade of this pearl white modernist villa – it’s worth visiting just to swan down the outdoor spiral staircase with a glass of something bubbly. The rest of the year ain’t bad either, with sophisticated seasonal cocktails attracting a glam crowd looking for pre-city center drinks.

The Cuba Libre Rum & Cigar House Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best.

Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. (D5) ul.

(H4) ul. Francuska 2

Poznańska 37, thecubalibre.pl

Ceviche Bar Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing.

The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’

Long Bar Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eyecatching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but

Drink! Listings their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. (D3) ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

T Podwale Bar & Books R C P T M the kind of charismatic Occupying C W you’d read about in Dickens, gatehouse ≈ W C yourself in front of the upstairs position ≈ C C fireplace for a celebratory cigar and a ≈ glassTof something tall and lovely: the ≈ P E are in a class of their own and cocktails ≈ L S specifically customized for the season.

Spooling, silent Bond films, regular P B B burlesque shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. (D2) ul. Wąski Dunaj HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

IVILIZED

Playhouse Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. (B3) Al. Solidarności 82A, playhouse.pl

EETTM

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1 Sun Salon For something naughty but nice 1 Sun Salon offers body-to-body tantric massage with just about the happiest ending you could possibly wish for. Staffed with Warsaw Insider reklama PVM half_page_H_144x102.ai 1 19.06.2019 14:21:41 flighty college girls, and equally welcom20, barandbooks.pl OCATION

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ing to stag groups as they are business travelers, head here to wallow in plush VIP rooms while every whim and fancy is satisfied and served. ul. Marszałkowska 24/26, 1sun.pl

live music Pardon To Tu Prepare for a heady swirl of innovative sounds, with the foggy atmosphere given a helping hand by an unorthodox audience that gels together into one vibrant mass. Set across two floors, find bordello colors set against a wall of glory namechecking the obscure musical heroes through which this venue channels its spirit. Adding an extra layer of depth to Warsaw’s social scene with its flexi hours, maverick music policy and air of unforced cool, PTT win brownie points for their cool craft beers and cracking focaccia. (D6) Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

Visit Our LOcatiOns in new YOrk and Prague

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APOCALYPSE NOW!

Famed around the world for his fantastical illustrative paintings, the Insider puts artist Jakub Różalski under interrogation…

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Describe the worlds you paint…

Importantly, they’re not fantasy worlds, rather an alternate history fused with diesel-punk.

Not solely though, right?

Correct. I’m working on a dark world for a graphic novel titled The Cursed Knight.

Continue!

Think of werewolves and a demonic Teutonic Order.

Where did it all begin for you?

From an early age I was drawing my own worlds, so the style I have has been developed over the course of my whole life.

The characters you paint speak of strength, defiance, fearlessness and pride…

Totally. My paintings are an escape from our often disappointing world and the heroes in my work are what I’d like to see if this planet was a better place.

Your work is deeply influenced by history…

History is my passion.

I’m fascinated by antiquity, the Middle Ages and the great wars.

And Polish history, clearly.

Yes. In my 1920+ series I wanted something more personal and original so I chose the history of my country as a background, specifically the PolishBolshevik war of 1920.

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For more on Jakub and his work, see: jrozalski.com

“

The things I paint reflect my

personality, what I love and everything I’m afraid of

What interested you about that…

The fact that it’s one of most important landmarks in European (and world) history, yet it remains curiously unknown.

your work?

No idea! It’s sincere and personal I hope, and it leaves a lot of space for interpretation and the imagination. But I really don’t know – ask my fans!

The hand of the 19th century masters is very evident in your work. Beyond them, where else do you seek inspiration?

Things from my childhood and teens, so movies like Alien, The Thing, Seven Samurai, Blade Runner, The Deluge and so on.

Present cinema does nothing for me.

Are you ready for lockdown!

A few years ago I fulfilled my dream of living in the woods high up in the mountains so I’m well prepared.

Anything else from your formative years?

I grew up in the countryside – a real village.

I think you can tell that by my paintings and their general theme.

What MUST you have to work?

Music, definitely music. Other than that, my own ‘force field’.

Is there anything your work mirrors?

The things I paint reflect my personality, what I love and everything I’m afraid of.

They’re quite suitable to these current wild, scary times!

The pandemic will turn the world upside down. It can be compared to a war, so in this context, yeah, my work reflects the fears we face.

How should we view your work?

That’s not something I think about! Build your own story around it. I create my art for myself, not for others!

What’s the magic of

So quarantine: what do you have…

A woman I love, animals, my own orchard and the internet.

You’re a time traveler for a day – where are you headed?

Ancient Egypt or Greece. Capital cities.

I’d walk around just admiring the architecture and diversity of the world.

Your called Mr. Werewolf – why!

Well, I have lycanthropy…

Your workspace is…

A cozy corner in a wooden house surrounded by nature.

Dream project?

A film set in one of the worlds that I paint.

There’s been some interest from Hollywood, but nothing final. warsawinsider.pl

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A RISING REMEMBERED

April 19th marks the 77th anniversary of the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising, an audacious rebellion undertaken in the face of insurmountable odds‌

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T OPPOSITE PAGE WIKICOMMONS, THIS PAGE FACEBOOK

hough amounting to approximately a third of the capital’s pre-war population, the Nazi occupation saw the capital’s Jews confined within an area covering a paltry 2.5% of the town. Considered the largest and most significant Ghetto in the Third Reich, it was subsequently sealed off in November, 1941.

“We have entered a new phase of life,” wrote Chaim Kaplan. “It is hard to imagine the panic which this has caused in the Jewish district. We have suddenly realized that we are confined and enclosed on all sides. We are now excluded and isolated from the world, expelled from human society.”

Worse was to befall the starving population when, the following year, deportations began to the gas chambers of Treblinka. When rumors that a final action to empty the Ghetto would begin in April, 1943, those Jews that had hitherto survived rose in rebellion against the Nazis. Though out-numbered and desperately under-equipped (their collections of arms numbered two sub-machine guns, 17 rifles, 500 pistols and numerous homemade devices), the ragbag collection of insurgents took the Wehrmacht by surprise and repeatedly frustrated their efforts to liquidate the area by employing classic street fighting tactics.

Often moving through sewers and basements, they offered dogged resistance under the leadership of 24-year-old Mordechai Anielewicz. Directing operations from his bunker on Miła 18, German units finally discovered the fortified HQ on May 8th. Surrounded, its defenders chose suicide over surrender.

Before reputedly taking poison, Anielewicz penned a last defiant letter: “My dream has become reality, I have lived to see Jewish defense in the Ghetto in its greatest splendor.” After the war the bodies were not exhumed; instead, rubble was poured on the spot and visitors can now climb the small grassy knoll marking the area of the ‘bunker’.

Though regarded as the Ghetto’s last stand, sporadic combat continued and scores of Jews, among them Marek Edelman, using the chaos to escape to the Aryan side of the wall before joining with the Polish underground. “We weren’t beaten by the Germans,” Edelman later recalled, “we were beaten by the flames.”

Nearly one month after it originally broke out, the German commander, Jurgen Stroop, was finally able to report to his superiors that he had successfully crushed the rebellion. As if to signal the end of Warsaw’s Jewish population, the SS-Brigadeführer – who would later

HEARTS & FLOWERS In recent years commemoration events honoring the Uprising have been dominated

by Akcja Żonkile, an action first launched by POLIN Museum in 2013. With the aid of a thousand volunteers patrolling the streets of the Muranów district – where the heart of the Ghetto once stood – over half-a-million paper daffodils have been handed out to the public since the inception of the project, and though this year’s event is likely to be cancelled given the wider situation, the lawns and parks dotted around the area are still likely to glow yellow in the spring sunlight after an initiative earlier in the year to plant them with daffs.

Symbolic of respect, memory and hope, the flower has been associated with the Warsaw Ghetto Uprising ever since veteran combatant Marek Edelman began leaving them at various sites linked to the revolt. A revered cardiologist, patriot and social activist, Edelman assumed command of the Jewish rebels during the Ghetto Uprising after their original leader, Mordechai Anielewicz, committed suicide. Edelman escaped the Ghetto via the sewers and later fought in the ’44 Uprising the following year where he again distinguished himself in battle.

hang for his crimes in Mokotów Prison in 1952 – chose to mark the conclusion of his operation with the symbolic demolition of the Great Synagogue that had once stood on Pl. Bankowy.

“What a marvelous sight it was,” he wrote. “A fantastic piece of theater. My staff and I stood at a distance. I held the electrical device which would detonate all the charges simultaneously. I glanced over at my brave officers and men, tired and dirty, silhouetted against the glow of the burning buildings. After prolonging the suspense for a moment, I shouted: ‘Heil Hitler’ and pressed the button. With a thunderous, deafening bang and a rainbow burst of colors, the fiery explosion soared toward the clouds, an unforgettable tribute to our triumph over the Jews. The Warsaw Ghetto was no more. The will of Adolf Hitler and Heinrich Himmler had been done.”

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In accordance with the law, as of press time public spaces such as gyms, swimming pools, museums, libraries and cinemas had been closed. All stores aside from shopping centers have been allowed to operate at their discretion, however the dynamic nature of the situation means that this stands to change. Although we have maintained a skeletal set of listings in our Discover section, readers’ are advised to check opening times in advance.

THE BIG PICTURE

Galvanized by the gallery shutdown that came into force in mid-March, the Zachęta have fought back in style by making their entire collection available online: in real terms, that’s meant presenting 3,741 works in all.

But as if that wasn’t serious enough, Warsaw’s best-known contemporary arts space went several yards further by offering 20% discounts in their digital bookstore as well as online workshops for kids and curated virtual walks livestreamed in both Polish and English. Whilst they hope to be back open for boots-on-theground visits by April, expect them to continue offering web-based alternatives should these plans to resume be thwarted by a bat-based soup.

Zachęta Gallery of Modern Art Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

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A Place For Alternative Art & Education Triki TASHKA, a meeting place, creative workshop and art space has opened in Centrum Praskie Koneser. Founded by the TASHKA children’s book publishing house, it seeks to inspire a deeper understanding of cultural education.

Under their watch, TASHKA ensure that behind the door of Triki TASHKA every visitor – regardless of their age – will find something that will interest and stimulate them. “The idea arose from my vision of a perfect home,” say Katarzyna Kucharska, the founder of TASHKA. “I wanted to gather everything that made the publishing house special under one roof.”

“At Triki TASHKA,” she continues, “we offer a unique atmosphere of freedom and an openness that can’t be found elsewhere. Further to the cultural offer, we’ve also prepared a thorough culinary spread featuring proven suppliers of bio coffee, teas, delicious chocolate, healthy smoothies, craft bakeries and traditional pastries.”

Going hand-in-hand with this all find literature from top authors, paintings, poster art, sculpture, unique porcelain, honeys from the Kłodzko Valley, handmade toys and clothes and much, much more.

Triki TASHKA also offers a wealth of sensations, the chance to learn new skills, interesting experiences, unusual meetings and a platform to exchange opinions and thoughts. Here you’ll discover hidden talents and develop your passions whilst unearthing new ones through your contact with art, as well as via participation in workshops led by specialists in the fields of architecture, painting, literature, comic books, jewelry, scriptwriting, drama, acting and art puppetry.

Triki TASHKA also invites guests to enjoy a series of artistic happenings, live performances, concerts and meetings with authors – and should you wish, we even offer the opportunity to organized a birthday party here! Opened to coincide with the tenth anniversary of the TASHKA publishing house, as well as the premier of plenty of new titles, Triki TASHKA promises to teach visitors a host of new tricks!

Triki TASHKA , Plac Konesera 3, Warsaw, Butelkownia Building, tel. 602-751-718. tashka@tashka.pl, www.trikitashka.pl

PRAGA / ENTER FROM BIAŁOSTOCKA /

1HR FREE PARKING

Centrum Praskie Koneser is one of most magnetic places in Warsaw. Offering a range of top restaurants and bars, unique museums and stores as well as a busy program of fairs, festivals, exhibitions and assorted events, the historic backdrop provided by the beautifully restored 19th century buildings that once comprised the onsite vodka factory lend it a character that brims with positive energy. koneser.eu

LEARNING

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years

preschools

American School of Warsaw Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics.

Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@ aswarsaw.org or visit aswarsaw.org.

Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), tel.

22 702 85 00

The British Primary School of Wilanów A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS)Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Email admissions@bswilanow.org to organize a visit.

The British School Early Years Centre The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Centre), tel. 22 646 7777 , thebritishschool.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw Preschool Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students.

The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

You are invited to our Prospective Parent’s Meeting

at casa dei Bambini Warsaw Montessori School When: Thursday, May 7th 2020 at 6 p.m.

Where: Badowska 19 (behind building Sielecka 52) Małgosia Tarnowska will conduct a special pretentation for you to experience a true Montessori education.

We are accepting applications for programs Toddler: age 12months – 2,5 Casa: age 2,5 – 5 Please contact Kinga: 692 099 134 e-mail: office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl www.wmf.edu.pl

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Casa dei Bambini & Toddler School ( multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green, harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin with the latter set in the quiet of Kampinos Forest.

Teachers are fully trained in earlychildhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12-months to 6-years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul.

tion with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The full-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French.

Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul.

Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), wmf.edu.pl

International Trilingual School of Warsaw The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school educa-

The English Playhouse The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów.

The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-

years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com. ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

Maple Tree Montessori Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

The pursuit

of excellence We promise to support your child to love learning and achieve more than they ever thought possible.

www.thebritishschool.pl

Please email admissions@thebritishschool.pl or call (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 to arrange a tour

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schools

Montessori Stepping Stones An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child.

Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Trilingual Pre-school and Nursery “Three Languages” Center The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

Akademeia High School Akademeia High School is an international high school in Warsaw, offering the chance to study for A Levels and iGCSEs. The school focuses on developing both students’ academic abilities and their artistic, athletic and leadership potential. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

sions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

American School of Warsaw With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers.

Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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The British Primary School of Wilanów We are a values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS).Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admis-

The British School Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul.

Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Montessori School A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), wmf.edu.pl

Warsaw Montessori Middle School Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities,

The English Primary The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience.

The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep. edu.pl

The Canadian School of Warsaw International Elementary and Middle School Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@canadianschool.pl or secretary.olimpijska@ canadian-school.pl

The English speaking preschool and primary school.

Wilanów Zawady: ul. Syta 78

Mokotów:

ul. Płyćwiańska 14a, ul. Obserwatorów 8 and ul. Cisowa 13 www.tep.edu.pl 696 904 687

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nothing but the best. Brands include Tartine et Chocolat, Quax, Woodwork and Theophile & Patachou. ul. Wilcza 69, International Trilingual School of Warsaw Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve. The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

Monnet International School Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

children shops Bimbus Accessories, clothes, furniture and toys for parents who pamper their child with

bimbus.com.pl

Baby D’Oro Making use of pastel colors and top quality fabrics, this Polish brand covers all bases from furnishings and fittings to toys and accessories. ul. Długa 8/14

Księgarnia Bullerbyn A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends. The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul. Chmielna 10

Lullaby Jam packed with funky design and quirky gifts for your little ones. However, the exquisite clothing and designer labels do come with a hefty price tag.

Radio Telewizja Radio Telewizja stock a range of literature that cover topics from local art and architecture to contemporary history. Tinged with a retro 60s atmosphere, their offer isn’t just based around Polish and English-language reading material and extends further into quirky gifts. ul.

Multiple locations, lullaby.com.pl

Andersa 29

Muppetshop An innovative concept store that offers a wide range of brands and products targeted at young people – babies, juniors, teenagers. The portfolio includes full-service for expecting parents as well as complete interior projects. ul.

adult learning

Kazimierzowska 43, muppetshop.pl

books

Cup of Polish Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/ company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com

Fundacja Bęc Zmiana A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7,

Klub Dialogu Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu.

beczmiana.pl

ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

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's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

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www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

ntal.

otel

4-Star Hotels

Novotel Warszawa (Airport)

Radisson Blu Sobieski

ul. 1-ego Sierpnia 1, tel. 22 575 6000

pl. Zawiszy 1, tel. 22 579 1000, sobieski.com.pl

6000,

Mecure Warszawa Centrum ul. Złota 48/54, tel. 22 697 3999, mercure.com

l. 22 .com

RIDING TO THE RESCUE! Met with an utterly unimaginable situation, parents have found themselves thrown into the deep end as they deal with the fallout related to the unrelenting spread of Covid-19.

Challenging as it has proved, support networks – both formal and informal – have been quick to sprout, though to the Insider’s knowledge none compete with the wealth of advice offered by the Englishlanguage portal Kids In The City (kidsinthecity.pl).

Built with international families in mind, this well-written resource has reacted quickly to current affairs to reveal thoroughly researched sections dealing with such weighty topics ranging from what to do with the kids whilst languishing at home to maintaining the necessary emotional resilience.

On top of that, find a fab list of free audiobooks and podcasts, links to child-oriented workouts and a treasure trove of miscellaneous parenting tips.

Someone, give ’em a medal!

relocation companies

Mercure Grand Warszawa

Express Relocations

ul. Krucza 28, tel. 22 583 2100, mercure.com

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

Courtyard by Marriott Hotel (Airport)

AGS Warsaw

hotels.

ul. Żwirki i Wigury 1, tel. 22 650 0100, warszawacourtyard.pl

ul. Julianowska 37, Piaseczno, agsmovers.com

Express Relocations

558 taw.com

0,

Novotel Warszawa Centrum

ul. Szyszkowa 35/37, expressrelocations.com

ul. Marszałkowska 94/98, tel.

22 596 0000, novotel.com, accorhotels.com

Interdean International Relocation

Polonia Palace Hotel

ul. Geodetów 172, Piaseczno, tel. 22 701 7171, interdean.com

Al. Jerozolimskie 45, tel. 22 318 2800, poloniapalace.com

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ie 13, m/

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Move One Relocations Also immigration assistance, fine art shipping, pet transport and consulting services. ul. Al.

ul. Poleczki 35, tel. 22 373 37 00, hiexpress.com

Jerozolimskie 65/79, tel. 22 630 8160, moveonerelo.com

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SHOPPING 303 Avenue Using top Italian and French fabrics, this family-owned fashion brand specialize in women’s apparel that crosses boundaries between causal and chic. In their portfolio discover oversized cashmere coats, skirts, sweaters and scarves, all of which fall on the cutting edge of style. ul.

likusconceptstore.pl

Mokotowska 40/3, 303avenue.pl

City, level 1)

Ania Kuczyńska Ania Kuczyńska is becoming well known for her highly fashionable, minimalist clothing designs. The store also carries adorable baby clothes and various accessories. ul. Mokotowska 61

LoveYa This upcoming Polish fashion brand aims itself at ‘women who value originality and like to play with styles and colors’.

Noted for their use of high-quality materials and fabrics, their founding tenets are based upon elegance, creativity and taste. ul. Mokotowska 46A, loveya.pl

Balthazar An atelier, boutique and private tailor with several unique brands. Book your meeting by calling tel. 535 545 728. Al. Rzeczypospolitej 18/68, balthazar.pl

Cafardini Complete suits start at zł. 2,600 and rise to zł. 4,500, depending on the fabric.

Using the finest natural raw materials, Cafardini even offer a ‘suit spa’ – a special care package that will see you suit regain its fresh look if it has been worn intensively. ul. Grzybowska 5A Chiara A solid assortment of Marc Jacobs and other top international designers such as Michael Kors and Jil Sander.ul.

Mokotowska 49 & Pl. Uni Lubelskiej, tel. 22 647 0394, chiara-online.pl

Just Paul Exuding confident femininity, this energetic brand is characterized by its light and unobtrusive elegance and sense of effortless nonchalance. Founded in 2012 by designers Justyna and Paula, Just Paul seeks to address the needs of the modern woman with its line in chic but casual clothing and more dazzly evening wear. ul. Mokotowska 61, justpaul.pl Likus Concept Store The Likus Concept Store brings ultra-chic designer clothing to Warsaw.

The latest collections from Diesel, D2, Ferre, Stone Island, Sophia Kokosalaki

and J. Lindeberg are all available and presented in this stylish three-floor department store. ul. Bracka 9 (Vitkac),

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Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

Lolly Pop Boutique Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop. pl Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue

Lui Store Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26, lui-store.com

Maare On-trend Polish female fashion label with a flagship boutique on, it almost goes without saying, Mokotowska.

Known for their boho chic look and flowery dresses, the brand has fast gained a name for clothing that’s edgy and upmarket yet also highly affordable. ul. Mokotowska 46, maare.eu

Mandel Valuing traditional craftsmanship and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’.

This they do with clothing suited to all occasions and every personality. ul.

Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com

Moliera 2 Boutique Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo,

Pan Tu Nie Stal Polish design at its peak: fashion is prominent, but there’s also interesting bitsy things such as aprons, jam jars, notebooks and mugs – all with a defiantly Polish twist. Eccentric, unusual and emphatically on-trend, it’s a must-visit.

Koszykowa 35/40, pantuniestal.com

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

QπШ - Robert Kupisz One of Warsaw’s hottest fashion icons, and a trip here soon explains why. The exclusive, handmade garments are a guaranteed head turner. ul. Mokotowska 48/204, robertkupisz.com Redford and Grant This multi-brand fashion store offers clothing and accessories from the newest collections from all the major international designers such as Dior, YSL, D&G, Gucci, Miu Miu and Prada.

Metropolitan Building, Pl. Piłsudskiego 3 Reykjavik District Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul. Burakowska 15, reykjavikdistrict.com

Risk. Made In Warsaw Mixing modern shapes with expert tailoring, the idea was to create a look that’s both comfortable yet chic. That they’ve been featured in the likes of Vogue and Elle suggests that this target has been accomplished. ul. Szpitalna 9, riskmadeinwarsaw.com

Sabotage Those in-the-know know Sabotage

as one of the places to buy funky deconstructed denim and sportswear pieces. Here you’ll find a wide array of unique clothes, hats, belts and handbags in a variety of fabrics and styles that hail straight from New York, London and Tokyo. ul. Burakowska 5/7 Safripsti Formerly a make-up artist in London and Paris, owner Magdalena returned to Poland to open a vintage boutique.

Buying wholesale – meaning prices are kept in check – her fashion store presents finds like authentic cheerleader outfits and Hawaiian shirts for summer, not to mention a great selection of denim, parkers and so forth. ul. Oleandrów 3 Snobissimo Top labels from design houses like Jimmy Choo, Sonia Rykiel, Les Copains, Sergio Rossi etc., etc. With shoes and

accessories all provided for, it’s a onestop shop to re-boot your wardrobe. ul.

Mokotowska 28

The Odder Side From small beginnings The Odder Side have grown from a cult brand to one of the most influential labels on the domestic fashion market. Few do a better job when it comes to making simple sexy. ul.

Koszykowa 5, theodderside.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg.

Vitkac, ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl Wake Up The Bear Stylish ‘travel practical’ clothes as

designed by the acclaimed Viola Spiechowicz. Featuring natural fabrics and multipurpose add-ons, this is the ultimate in comfort clothes. ul.

Mokotowska 41, wakeupthebear.com

Wearso.organic If you love extravagant forms and monochromes this is the place is for you. Designers use only natural materials. Aside from clothes and fashion accessories you’ll also find several items for home. ul. Boya- Żeleńskiego 2, wearso.com

Zaremba Originally inspired by the Savile Row style, Zaremba have been fitting out gentlemen of Warsaw since 1898. Under Maciej Zaremba, the brand has moved forward to take into account global trends while also respecting its past. ul.

Nowogrodzka 15, zaremba-krawiec.pl

Highlights at Koneser

Eyebar Poland’s first chain of salons offering professional eyebrow styling specializes not just in the creation of beautiful brows, but also in the application of perfect make-up whilst offering an array of pampering treatments ranging from original hairstyling and unique nail decoration. Book directly online to receive a 30% discount. Pl. Konesera 10A, eyebar.pl

Beverly Hills Hair Academy Offering a range of hair care and styling solutions for both men and women, Beverly Hills Hair Academy utilize eco-friendly, vegan products from Authentic Beauty Concept as well as an array of products from Schwarzkopf Professional in their quest to make your hair look ten out of ten. Pl. Konesera 10, beverlyhills.pl

Hop-Chop Barbershop Old school values meet with contemporary aesthetics inside Hop-Chop, a nationwide phenomenon that’s boomed to become the best-known barber shop chain in the country.

Offering all from expert beard trims and classic razor shaves with hot towels to dad & lad discounts and complimentary bourbon, it’s nothing less than an experience to remember. Pl. Konesera 2, hopchop.pl

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HEALTH & BEAUTY

membership fee alone. Annual prices begin from around zł. 4,000. ul. Emilii Plater 49 (InterContinental), riverview.com.pl

spas & salons gyms Artis Wellness Club Found in Royal Wilanów, this state-of-the-art gym boasts the latest technological advances in personal fitness, as well as a massive program of courses that range from group cycling and yoga to Zumba and body combat. ul. Klimczaka 1 (Royal Wilanów), artisclub.pl

Gravitan Set in Janki and Targówek, Gravitan features state-of-the-art equipment, group classes and numerous specialists ranging from trainers and physios to beauticians and dieticians.

Pl. Szwedzki 3 & ul. Malborska 39, gravitan.pl

Holmes Place Swimming, sauna and steam room facilities are available, as are a varied timetable of classes plus personal training. ul. Grzybowska 63 (Hilton), Al. Jerozolimskie 65/79 (Marriott), holmesplace.pl

Little Gym Targeted at children, expect an age specific fitness curriculum, a high instructor-to-child ratio, original music and a weekly theme to engage the child’s imagination and sense of fun. ul. Bruzdowa 56, thelittlegym.pl Quantum Fitness A place of quiet, understated luxury, equipment is state-of-the-art and complemented by expert trainers at the peak of their game. This is the full 24-carat gym experience. ul. Piękna 15, quantumpiekna.pl

RiverView Wellness Centre Top-class facilities and equipment, private instructors and small classes.

The view from the highest pool in Europe offers a glorious panorama of the city and is almost worth the

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Warsaw Insider | APRIL 2020

Creamy Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

Fifth Avenue Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska

hair & beauty Barberian Academy & Barber Shop This standout has a rebel chic layout and barbers who are experts in their field. ul.

E. Plater 25 & ul. Koszykowa 9, barberian.pl

Bartek Janusz Salon The staff here takes a no-nonsense approach to cutting hair – it goes along with the minimalist chic interiors of the place. ul. Mokotowska 19 / ul. Wilcza 72, bartekjanusz.pl

BodyClinic Thorough body care for everyone. From the usual options to a huge variety of massages and some very exotic treatments, BodyClinic covers all the bases. ul. Oboźna 9 lok. 104, bodyclinic.pl

Dotyk SPA Probably the only place in Warsaw where you’ll get a facial yoga session.

Going further east, treat yourself to Japanese, Polynesian or Indian massage.

Biały Kamień 3, dotykspa.pl

Ferajna Rated by many as the No. 1 barber shop in PL, this is a male grooming experience like no other – there’s even arcade games to wile away waiting time. ul.

Andersa 6, ferajna.pro

49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

Ouch!

Experts in waxing, Ouch! aim their offer at ‘busy women looking for express treatments with lasting effects who, at the same time, appreciate a sense of intimacy’. ul. Belwederska 32, ouch.pl Pardon My French Manicure and pedicure treatments with high quality lacquers and an awareness of global trends: if you need an endorsement, Paul McCartney visited when he was in Poland! ul. Belwederska 32; Bonifraterska 8; ul. Mokotowska 56, ul.

Wilcza 3 pardonmyfrench.pl

The Pedicure Place A luxury pedi/manicure clinic with room for 10. All the latest OPI varnishes and over 200 colors guarantee you’ll find the latest in styling and nail care. ul. Pokorna 2, pedicure-place.pl

Fiuu Fiuu Day Spa A wonderful quick fix salon that makes use of the latest Ericson products and other top brands. Regarded as one of the top ladies day spas in the country. ul.

Mokotowska 48

Rostowski Barber Shop A true celebration of the vintage barber shop, Rostowski have the ambiance nailed to a tee thanks to a crew that’s ready for banter and an interior replete with jack-up chairs, glinting zinc and restored floor tiles. ul. Koszykowa 58, rostowskibarbershop.pl

You & You Maciej Wróblewski Poland’s premier hair stylist is Maciej Wróblewski, and his flagship salon fuses a personal approach with professional styling. Disappointments are unheard of. ul. Grzybowska 61 (Galeria Platinum Towers), youandyou.eu

HOME & DESIGN

Porcelanowa Award-winning, contemporary Polish porcelain produced by cult, internationally recognized brands such as Aoomi and Fenek. ul. Kredytowa 2,

Galeria Mokotów Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

porcelanowa.com

Art Sułek Space Acquaint yourself with the work of Marek Sułek, a multi-disciplinary artist specializing in sculpture, photography, graphics and painting. Especially known for his cutesy “Praga angels”, his works are ideal as gifts or statement pieces for the home. Pl. Konesera 2, fb.com/artsulekspace Dom ze sztuką Founded by Katarzyna Czajka, the paintings inside this gallery have been donated by artists with the proceeds going towards homeless charities. Pl. Konesera, fundacjagodniezyc.pl

Grill Plus Home Trick out your garden, kitchen, living room and more with appliances from Bugatti, Japanese blades from the likes of Tajiro, Nagomi, Global, wine accessories from Vin Bouquet, and a whole range of innovative grill contraptions from a diverse selection of market leaders. Pl. Konesera 3 Lata 60-te Specializing in expertly refreshed furniture from the PRL era, it’s become a favorite of design mavens looking to trick out their home with a pre-loved retro statement piece. ul. 11 Listopada 54,

Reset The influence of the golden years of Polish design is never far away. Pluck through everything from retro screen prints to the kind of handle-less cups made famous by Poland’s milk bars.

Stashed amid these, find gems such as pre-war German SABA radios repurposed as bedside tables, classic circus posters and 50s tea sets. ul.

Dąbrowskiego 36, sklep.resetpoint.pl

Slou Founded from a love of simple, beautiful things, this suburb treasure is an enclave of design-minded items that range from ceramics and plant pots to stationary, clothing, cosmetics and art. Diverse as it is, all objects are linked by their extraordinary aesthetics. Polish designers are prominent, but by no means the only stars at this cult Bielany store. Al. Zjednoczenia 11,

lepukka.pl

Klif House of Fashion Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

slou.pl

To Tu Art A contemporary gallery featuring paintings, sculpture, graphics, drawings, photographs and ceramics that are aesthetically suited for both personal and commercial use. Pl.

Mysia 3 Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Konesera 5, totuart.com

malls & department stores Arkadia Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

galeriapolnocna.pl

Koneser Koneser’s post-industrial confines provide a gorgeous backdrop for a shopping experience involving established Polish fashion brands, design shops and interesting additions such as the HappyJa Kids Concept Store, the Alembic alcohol emporium and, even, a Tesla dealership. Pl. Konesera, konesera.eu

lata60-te.pl

Le Pukka For interior inspirations take a look at Le Pukka: highly original furniture and decorative pieces for the home come from the likes of Smeg, AreaDeclic, HK Living and Zuiver. ul. Solec 58/60,

Galeria Północna Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. Part of the ‘fourth generation of shopping centers’, add-ons number a rooftop garden and some of the best kid’s facilities on Poland’s retail map. ul. Światowida 17,

Plantarium Focusing on low maintenance air plants, owner Kamila Burchardt has accrued a number of big, leafy ferns, towering succulents, hard-to-find plants that are uncommon to Poland and accompanying accessories to lift up your home.

Impressive in scope and outlook, your apartment won’t ever feel the same.

Designer Outlet Warszawa Just 30-minutes from central Warsaw, and within a building influenced by Poland’s baroque period, discover over 100 brands offered at all year discounts of 30-70%. Brands include Boss, Hilfiger, Liu Jo, Furla, Michael Kors and many more. ul.

ul. Mokotowska 71, plantarium.pl

Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl

Plac Unii One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

Vitkac Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. And that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl Złote Tarasy Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus a Multikino cinema inside an award-winning piece of architecture. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

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Kulskiego

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ROLL WITH THE BAD TIMES

Of all the deep and searching questions that have arisen since the pandemic touched down in Europe, it is the maniacal quest for toilet roll that has fascinated the most…

f originally we snickered at YouTube vids of morons engaged in fist fights over loo roll, it all became real when covid-19 reached Poland. Blink and it was gone: every last roll snapped up from the shelves.

Though stocks have largely been replenished since (as they should be in a country whose bog roll industry is valued at zł. 1.6 billion per annum), it came as a sharp reminder of the bad old days.

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Notoriously symbolic of the PRL era, toilet paper shortages were a defining issue of life under Communism. By 1988, the situation had become so desperate that those living in Warsaw were said to make do with just seven rolls per year – and they were the lucky ones. In Radom, it’s rumored that residents had to survive on the equivalent of two meters of paper over the course of twelve months.

Seen as a luxury product, it wasn’t entirely unusual to witness it given as a gift on occasions such as Women’s Day in place of other coveted items like stockings and tights. Blamed simultaneously on a shortage of paper and embezzling officials, the problem ran back decades and got so bad that paper saving committees became commonplace: for 10 kilos

of newspaper, you’d receive in return a roll of toilet paper. More enterprising natives turned to making their own by scrunching up newspapers, straightening them out, then repeating the process over and again.

Frequently resulting in an inky bottom, it was seen as the best alternative in a country where even restaurant toilet attendants would issue guests with just one or two sheets depending on the purpose of their visit.

The cause of queues that stood for hours, even the PRL’s brighter days seemed to be cursed by a lack of toilet roll: when deliveries arrived, those at the head of the line could be seen gleefully exiting stores with rolls tied like flowery garlands around their neck. A sign of things to come? Let’s hope abso-loo-utely not.

SHUTTERSTOCK

Last word

Delivering Warsaw's Best To You To make an order call tel.+48 22 651 9003 or order online at: www.roomservice.pl