Warsaw Insider November 2020 #291

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

#291

NOVEMBER 2020 FEATURES: Forgetting the coronavirus for just one moment, we bring you the restaurants and bars that have this year proved to be…

The Best of Warsaw! – p. 6 PLUS: THE PANDEMIC ALL-STARS! – p. 30

To find the identity of one of our undisputed stars of 2020, see p. 26

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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AQUAZZURA ALEXANDRE BIRMAN BALMAIN BURBERRY BUSCEMI CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN CULT GAIA FRANCESCO RUSSO GIANVITO ROSSI HERVE LEGER ISABEL MARANT KENZO LOVE SHACK FANCY MAISON MICHEL MANOLO BLAHNIK NANUSHKA ONETEASPOON SELF-PORTRAIT SOPHIA WEBSTER THE MARC JACOBS TOD’S TORY BURCH ZIMMERMANN

tel.: 228277099, www.Moliera2.com

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Contents November 2020

BEST OF WARSAW

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

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Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

ey Account Manager K Adam Fogler afogler@valkea.com

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2020

The Pandemic All-Stars The lockdown’s knights in shining armor – p.30 Best In The Neighborhood The Insider’s local heroes – p.34 Best of the Listings The restaurants, bars and cafes we simply can’t live without – p.46

Discover

Photography Marcin Wojdak’s urbex photography – p.71 Museums – p.76 Map – p.86 Read On The Polish Table – p.88

Subscription

12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS Tel. (022) 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Ficowskiego 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; e-mail: insider@ warsawinsider.pl All information ©2020 Warsaw Insider.

PHOTOGRAPH BY ED WIGHT

RIGHT THEN, I guess an explanation of this edition is in order… Well, for those latecomers that may be unfamiliar with our history, ever since 1998 the Insider’s little hirelings have always set aside one issue per year to bring you their Best of Warsaw, an annual special hailing the great and the glorious of the city’s food and drinks scene. Admittedly, back in those days there wasn’t a huge deal to shout about, so you had places like Planeta being named our favorite club on account of having a rottweiler named Tyson keeping check at the door. But Warsaw changed fast, as too did our way of honoring our adored: swanky galas and jury dinners were born, as was a bumper, premium issue published separately from this mag. Good times for all!

Then, to continue this narrative, along came a pandemic. First postponed and then readjusted, we’ve gone back to basics to bring you our Best of Warsaw to fit inside a standard issue. And wouldn’t you know it, we couldn’t have picked a worse time… Arriving earlier and demonstrating more aggression than anticipated, the ‘second wave’ has wreaked havoc on the F&B industry, meaning there’s a fair to good chance that quite a few places that we laud might not even see tomorrow. Nonetheless, guided by a now or never feeling, we’ve chosen to persevere and bring you our selection of the top spots in Warsaw. Lord knows, they deserve recognition and all the good news they can get. So on that note, enjoy the issue and the fruits of our labor!

The Hot List The people and places changing Warsaw’s F&B scene!

– p.6

BURBERRY CANADA GOOSE CASADEI CHRISTIAN LOUBOUTIN MEN FAY GIANVITO ROSSI KENZO ONETEASPOON RALPH LAUREN TOD’S TORY BURCH BURBERRY CHILDREN DSQUARED2 KIDS KENZO KIDS MONCLER KIDS

Moliera 2

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY

tel.: 226221416, www.Moliera2.com

Rich Flavors

In The Heart of Praga Global flavors, stunning interiors and a lively atmosphere are there to be enjoyed in the bars, restaurants and cafes of a revitalized vodka factory… Centrum Praskie Koneser!

Restaurants Bombaj Masala Praga Exquisite cuisine, prepared by native Indians wellversed in the secrets of Indian cuisine. The restaurant uses local, natural ingredients and pairs them with a variety of imported spices.

Ferment Praski A creative, culinary experience aimed at those fascinated with modern Polish cuisine. In Ferment

Praski find native, seasonal produce combined with tastes and techniques from all over the globe.

Frankie’s A Scandinavian concept focused largely on healthy living. Juices and fruity cocktails are the forte, and there’s around 25 on the menu. Additionally, find salads and hot sandwiches served.

Hana Sushi Coming soon from The Land of the Rising Sun,

expect sushi of the highest quality: fresh, delicate fish, perfectly cooked rice, and delicious add-ons. Hana Sushi also offers a variety of other dishes such as Japanese-style duck and salmon teriyaki.

ORZO

Koneser Grill

Papa Diego

Calling all lovers of good food and wine! Feel the warmth and ambiance of an open fire in a beautiful venue that celebrates high-quality, seasoned meats. Recommended by the Michelin Guide.

Fresh herbs and veg from Poland’s fields and the best meat from local farmers are intertwined with original Mexican recipes.

Visit for tacos, burritos, quesadillas and healthy burrito bowls!

A naturally hospitable urban space, head to ORZO to take time out from the city bustle. The delicious, health-minded menu is perfect for carnivores and vegans / vegetarians alike.

Syreni Śpiew Mediterranean cuisine, unique pizza and local classics: this restaurant also offers lunch deals at attractive prices. Later, arrive to explore the siren’s whisky offer and cocktails while dancing the night away in luxurious postindustrial interiors.

Van Dog

gorgeous views in unusual surroundings.

WuWu Enjoy the rituals associated with Polish vodka inside a stunning, modern interior adapted to work as one with the food and drink and stimulate your senses!

Cafes

Classic street food with an innovative twist: inspired by global influences as well as Polish tastes and produce, Van Dog’s menu is, of course, dominated by sausages and hot dogs – even those for vegans!

Columbus

Zoni

E. Wedel Chocolate Lounge

Considered one of the most beautiful restaurants in the world, this phenomenal space works well with a sophisticated menu and a drinks list that features the best vodkas from both home and abroad.

Bars

Sourcing beans from the best plantations in the world, at Columbus you’re right to expect delicious coffees with breakfast and desserts in a deeply relaxed atmosphere.

The chocolatey heart of Warsaw! Hot chocolate, as well as pralines, marshmallows and Wedel’s signature cakes are guaranteed to thrill as much now as they did in the mid-19th century!

Triki Tashka

¾ Koneser Bar A one-of-a-kind cocktail bar found inside the Polish Vodka Museum.

Enjoy the atmosphere of the 1920s while enjoying

A creative meeting space where art and culture effortlessly combine, visit Triki Tashka for a wide range of workshops not to mention ice cream of legend!

Even during the pandemic, you’ll be able to enjoy the atmosphere of Centrum Praskie Koneser from your home via take-away dishes and drinks from all our venues, or through home deliveries offered by all the main delivery services.

For more information, see: www.koneser.eu Parking from ul. Białastocka / Entry from ul. Ząbkowska & Białostocka / Parking 24/7, first hour free

The Hot List

With no further ado, we bring you the people and places that have changed the city for the better since our last Best of Warsaw issue!

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Koneser Grill ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

Many good things have happened in the former Koneser vodka factory since its repackaging as a mixed use lifestyle center, but have any been better than the Koneser Grill? Not in our eyes. Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant.

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS PRESS MATERIAL EXCEPT TOP TWO THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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MOD Donuts ul. Paryska 27

What’s our Best of Warsaw rundown without a mention for MOD? A perennial Insider favorite, their flagship restaurant on Oleandrów continues to blaze a trail with its eccentric crossover of Asian / classical French cooking, but this year, it’s their new venture that’s really got us talking. Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek.

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Nobu ul. Wilcza 73

Some things are just worth the wait.

With its opening originally pushed back due to the challenges presented by the coronavirus, the Nobu Warsaw Hotel finally opened its doors to receive guests at the front end of August: and straight away, you realized the city’s food and drink scene would never be the same. To begin with, you could mention the corner café, a white-on-white effort whose luxury desserts belong to another world.

Or, Jassmine, a dark, sophisticated space that promises to become one of Poland’s most important jazz bars once the virus is finally vanquished. Mostly though, it’s the restaurant you’ll hear about, and the pedigree of its clientele hasn’t hurt the cause: Joanna Krupa, for instance! Serving Nobu signatures like Black Cod Miso and Yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno its completely redefined all our established preconceptions of Japanese cuisine.

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FEATURE > HANDMADE

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LunaPark Previously described by us as the most imaginative F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen, little since has changed our mind. Debuting in 2019, and set in an abandoned outdoor leisure complex, this wild world of food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness combines elements of Coney Island with a free spirit party vibe that’s helped install it as a summer legend. Defined by its incredible energy and madcap backdrop (carousels and crazy golf!), their success in pooling Warsaw’s best street food points together contributed much to their success. In the unlikely event we make it to 2021, here’s where we want to spend next summer!

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ul. OboĹşna 11

Even before we switched en-masse to home-delivered, box-friendly foods, 2020 was shaping up to be the Year of the Pizza. And you saw just why with the entry of places like Nonna to the market. Raising the bar in an already competitive field, their wood-fired, Neapolitan pizzas captivated the public way before we locked ourselves down, and have continued to make waves for their simply stunning authenticity.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

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Nonna Pizzeria

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BEST OF WARSAW 2020

HOT LIST

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Epitomizing the new ‘live-work-play’ urban model, you find Elektrownia inside a vast former power station whose huge interiors have been given a spectacular reboot to leave it filled with on-trend stores and no shortage of food and drink options. Flashing with neon amid the industrial ephemera, the food hall is a multi-ethnic extravaganza and complimented by the presence of more bona fide sit-down restaurants such as Niewinni Czarodzieje 2.0 (the creation of Poland’s biggest media celebrity, Kuba Wojewódzki). Though hamstrung by Covid, this summer just gone did much to show the eventual potential of this game-changing social hub – already excellent, expect it to get even better once life becomes more… normal.

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Ursynów Best Chef

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Marcin Przybysz (Epoka) Although hardly standard, it’s becoming ever more common to hear of chefs hitting the history books to seek their inspiration. In Epoka, mind you, Marcin Przybysz has gone the whole nine yards by basing his entire menu upon Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!) then reconstructing the contents in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. And if Przybysz looks familiar, then so he bloody well should. The winner of the third edition of the Top Chef program, his background involves a stint as sous chef at Atelier Amaro and assorted roles in the fabled kitchens of Osteria Francescana, Noma and Geranium. Put bluntly, he’s studied under the best and in Epoka this shows. Now ready to stand at the pass himself, consider this chef as a Michelin star in the waiting.

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HOT LIST

Loreta

ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

9 Aura

ul. Hoża 27

Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons.

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BOTTOM ED WIGHT, TOP PRESS MATERIAL, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar?

That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup.

10 Baron The Family Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

The Insider’s former Chef of the Year (2019) can’t do any wrong! Proof of that comes with his latest project, a concept that could have been born with these times in mind – set around a spacious network of canopied outdoor wooden cabins, Aleksander Baron presents a casual food offer (“Perfect for hangovers!” he says) built around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. And then there’s the booze: craft ciders, bio Polish wines, boutique vodkas and beers poured straight from a customized tank. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best!

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HOT LIST

Klonn ul. JazdĂłw 1B

Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity and the feast of artsy events that are in the post-covid pipeline, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts washed down with light, balanced cocktails fixed with freshly picked herbs and seasonal fruit: everything about this place is a fantasy of skill.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD PRESS MATERIAL

BEST OF WARSAW 2020

FEATURE > HANDMADE

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Bangkok Soi Al. Jana Pawła II 50

In a city where most Thai is over-priced and under-spiced Bangkok Soi are a knight in shining armor. Dispensing entirely of formality, order from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, what next arrives is a whir of full-throated flavors that you never expected. It’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss.

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Syreni Śpiew Pl. Konesera 4 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

In the past, if you had used the word knife edge in the same sentence as Praga it would have been in reference to a mugging or a robbery. Nowadays, though, it’s the knife edge cool that everyone talks about. Don’t believe us?

Then step inside Syreni Śpiew on any given night. Almost insane in the scale of its ambition, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial add-ons. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more.

Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. The very definition of debauched decadence, the brilliance is underlined by flawless cocktails and the best-looking crowd in the country – it’s places like Syreni that have you yearning for a return to ‘normal’.

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HOT LIST

Warszawa Powiśle ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B

Found in a saucer-shaped building that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. It’s nothing less than super cool.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE PRESS MATERIAL, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BEST OF WARSAW 2020

Local Legend

15 Mięsny

ul. Walecznych 64

One of the few fringe benefits to emerge from the first lockdown was our newfound appreciation of all things local: whether it be a market, a night store or just a small little restaurant that made our new limited horizons feel that little bit more happy. In the case of the latter, step forward Mięsny. Presenting themselves as a butcher, deli, wine store and bistro all rolled into one, it served as a point of positivity during paranoid times. But then, we expected nothing else. Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals, it does more than simply serve our favorite meaty cuts; it makes the neighborhood feel complete. And for that, Mięsny we salute you!

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Mirosław Nizio & Andrzej Nizio

Outstanding Achievement

It’s unknown for our Food & Drink awards to recognize the achievements of an architect and a businessman, but there can be no doubting the impact that the Nizio brothers have had on modern Warsaw’s gastronomic sector. On the one hand, there’s Mirosław, an architect / designer celebrated for work on such institutions as The Warsaw Rising Museum, The Museum of Polish Vodka and POLIN. On the other, Andrzej, a real estate guru with further experience in the automotive, tech and medical industries. Disparate as these fields may be, together the pair have been responsible for a trio of game-changing concepts: Zoni, WuWu and most recently Klonn. A testament to their dynamic vision and creative philosophy, each venue drips with both ambition and attention to detail.

17 Kur & Wino ul. Andersa 21

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BOTTOM PRESS MATERIAL, TOP KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE PRESS MATERIAL

Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz.

18 No Problem ul. Bracka 20

No Problem’s vegan menu scores a direct hit when it comes to health-minded comfort food but there’s a bar scene as well with a range of craft beers served in a buzzy space that’s Berlin in its spirit: rough-hewn walls painted with street art, wobbly wooden furniture and posters advertising upcoming gigs.

There’s no longer a shortage of places that have nailed the whole resto-bar concept, but this was arguably the first vegan joint to try the same and actually pull it off.

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HOT LIST

Dziurka od Klucza Fort Służew 1B

20 Foton

ul. Wilcza 9A

Before Covid strong-armed itself into our lives you’d have found Foton firmly implanted as one of our favorite late nights. Looking good with a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed, think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad either with Latin American street bites and a dynamic cocktail list involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. Most of all though, it’s the atmosphere you return for.

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BOTTOM ED WIGHT, TOP PRESS MATERIAL, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.

21 Restauracja Forty ul. Racławicka 99

Fired out from the same canon as Ale Wino and Kukułka, the latest project from this celebrated team was well on its way to conquering Warsaw when along came that virus whose name we shan’t speak – seen as an effortlessly soothing post-industrial cavern (iron girders and tables made from demolished old barns), the one thing better than the interior is the exterior outside: it’s not a garden as such, but a whole bloody park. Give me back summer you want to scream. But there’s substance to this all as well, and it’s amply provided by Daniel Uliczny’s carefully composed menu of little bites of this and small plates of that. International influences abound all tied around a highly seasonal philosophy. Drinks, also, are a joy: house cocktails that often use homemade fermentations and top class liquors.

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HOT LIST

Pardon To Tu Al. Armii Ludowej 14

23 Zkurczybyk ul. Poznańska 7

Hands up who loves hot wings? Right, that’s all of you then. Savagely messy yet unforgivably addictive, roll into Zkurczybyk for juicy chicken tucked inside a crispy, crunch coat smothered and slathered in an array of irresistible sauces. No kidding, they’re things of near profound, holy beauty. Fun and compact, a close quarters interior filled with turntables, ammo boxes and corrugated iron connects well with the whole hip hop / street food vibe – yep, we’d happily live here.

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BOTTOM BARTOSZ PNIEWSKI, TOP ED WIGHT, OPPOSITE PAGE PRESS MATERIAL

After a cpl of years of flirting with temporary accommodation, PTT finally returned in full last year, positioning themselves inside a corner of the PWC office building just south of Zbawiciela.

But despite the upgrade in surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of old thanks to flexi hours (pre-Covid), a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city!

Best Restaurant

24 Rozbrat 20 ul. Rozbrat 20

Not for the first time Rozbrat 20 finds itself coming up trumps and winning the big ’un. For this, blame Bartosz Szymczak, a chef whose precise eye for detail transforms scrupulously sourced local ingredients into dazzling plates of big-hearted taste. Dividing the year into eight seasons, Szymczak’s menu is a balanced but highly creative work that involves such choices as marinated ribbons of kohlrabi served with grapefruit sorbet or tender pork belly resting in a glossy slick of cider sauce; light, harmonious but always full-flavored, this is cooking to return for time and time again. It helps, too, that this chef’s A-game feels elevated that extra bit by the chic, casual, contemporary design and a brilliant front-ofhouse team who’ll steer you around wine choices that mix global big guns with bio-dynamic sips and domestically produced tipples. Quite simply, it’s the perfect restaurant.

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HOT LIST

Mr. Greek

ul. Walecznych 68A

With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality.

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HOTOGRPAHS THIS PAGE AND OPPOSITE TOP BY KEVIN DEMARIA, BOTTOM PRESS MATERIAL

BEST OF WARSAW 2020

26 Hałas Vinyl + Coffee ul. Elsterska 10

Hałas is that brilliant little secret that every neighborhood deserves: a cool little café snuck down a leafy residential street – amid the vinyl albums for sale, find a crew of staunch regulars arriving for weird non-alc. beers and specialty coffee brewed by a super friendly team inside an attractive basement comprised of crisp white walls and retro fittings. You want summer to return just to be able to sit on their outdoor bench and wallow in the shade.

27 Kukułka

ul. Mokotowska 52

Already synonymous with good taste, high fashion and the slinky things in life, Mokotowska street hit another home run with the 2019 launch of Kukułka, a joint initiative formed from an alliance between Ale Wino and Przegryź.

Recruiting the acclaimed Beza Projekt studio to handle the design, the result is a funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, concrete finishes. But what really gets you are desserts that lift this piece of Warsaw in the direction of heaven – the cream puffs are something else.

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FEATURE > HANDMADE

Naboku ul. Zakręt 8

PHOTOGRAPHS LEFT BY KEVIN DEMARIA, RIGHT PRESS MATERIAL

In this little pocket of Denmark, a good mood prevails throughout and just by being here, you gain a little understanding as to why the Danes are often cited as the happiest people alive.

Brought to you by the same husband-wife team that created the award-winning Nabo, their new venture has quickly proved equally notable.

Inside a sunny room filled with retro posters, super cool lighting and original PRL floor tiles, gather to enjoy staple Nordic favorites such as fish stews, open-faced smørrebrød sandwiches, heaving steaks and curious beers from the likes of To Øl and Mikkeller. When it comes to leaving, you do so with the sense that great things have happened.

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Szóstka Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango.

And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures.

Home Delivery Delivery services have thrived in the chaos wreaked by Covid, but not all proved equal during these difficult few months…

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Room Service roomservice.pl

Delivering to your door through a variety of platforms, the number of eateries offering the contactless transfer of goodies rocketed with the first lockdown. Gathering them together under one umbrella, it was Room Service though that became the Insider’s savior of choice, an honor largely based upon the sheer diversity of their offer: focusing on quality restaurants

rather than the usual back street kebab and pizza options, extra points were earned for flawless English-speaking service and punctual deliveries courtesy of a fleet of pioneering three-wheel scooters.

Founded as Warsaw’s first such home delivery service over 15-years ago, this local firm continues to outshine the big industry players that have since entered the market on just about every level going.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE PRESS MATERIAL, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Pandemic

All-Stars!

Though handed the shock of their lives by the coronavirus, we salute the places that raised themselves from the floor to provide a chink of light…

FOOD From the struggles of the last few months, a clutch of restaurants have stood out more than others throughout these complicated times…

Ale Wino ul. Mokotowska 48

Lord knows how many take-aways and home deliveries the Insider enjoyed over the course of Lockdown No. 1, but it wouldn’t be an exaggeration to say well over one hundred. The best?

Not one came close to matching the quality of Ale Wino. Already regarded as one of the best meals in the city, that they managed to box it up and meet their impossibly high standards said much for a restaurant that has remained firmly on top of its game throughout the duration of this year most wicked.

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The Pandemic All-Stars!

CERTIFIED UVC TECHNOLOGY

Guru With sanitary standards a dominant topic, the Insider’s favorite Indian restaurant gave other restaurants pause for thought not just by segregating tables with plastic partitions, but by unleashing certified UVC technology that was the first of its kind in the country: eliminating bacteria and other such nasties with 99% efficiency, Guru became leaders in their field in more ways than one.

Grupa Warszawa grupawarszawa.com

That the coronavirus laid bare the ugly selfishness of many is impossible to ignore, yet away from the more lurid stories a lesser-publicized, kinder picture of humanity also emerged.

Take, for example, Grupa Warszawa’s

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#PosiłekDlaSeniora campaign. Cooking at the firm’s Syreni Śpiew address, and boosted by generous public donations, they delivered hundreds of meals to seniors and other at-risk groups during the height of the first lockdown. Bravo!

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD PRESS MATERIAL EXCEPT TOP LEFT BY KEVIN DEMARIA AND BOTTOM RIGHT BY FILIP BLANK

ul. Widok 8

DRINK Making quarantine a darn sight more fun than it could have been, we tip our hats to this trio of legends…

Mr. Oh Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego

Raj Piwosza Bora-Komorowskiego 56A

Ok, so we all prefer drinking in a pub, but if there’s one thing we learned during the opening lockdown it was just how easy it was to enjoy a brewery fresh pint from the safety of a sofa. Making that a reality were a range of specialty stores pouring freshbatch deliveries into bottles and growlers, our favorite being the Gocław-based Raj Piwsoza. Touting twelve taps dedicated to showcasing some of Poland’s more innovative beers, extra points are awarded for ample fridge and shelf space dedicated to both domestic and international artisan beers. No kidding, the place became a lifesaver.

Opened just before some total idiot ordered the bat soup in Wuhan, Mr. Oh looked a dead cert to dominate the year as just about the hottest address in the city.

A semi-secret world for those In The Know, it was to this dark and decadent address that the A-list headed for late nights and Asian-themed cocktails that felt fun,

playful and in tune with the vibe. And then covid happened.

Not to be put off, they helped pioneer the sale and home delivery of exotic cocktail pre-mixes available in both party packs and individual bottles while also launching a city-wide delivery service that grouped together a tight crew of cult restaurants (knajp.pl).

Fat White ul. Andersa 6

Upping Andersa’s cool factor to impossible heights, Fat White has always been an Insider fave: after all, how can you not love a place attached to a buzzing barbershop and filled to the gunnels with miniature figurines of action heroes and Simpsons characters.

Fully committed to the cause, they responded to the lockdown by taking their show on the road with co-owner Piotr setting off on his wife’s bike to deliver coffee to wherever it was needed. “After all that,” he laughs, “we might have to change our name to Fit White.”

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Neighborhood

Best in the

With more people than ever refusing to leave the immediate radius of their homes, never before has having a quality neighborhood haunt been more important – this issue, we bring you a few of the standouts that make staying local an undisputed joy!

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Wola Shoku ul. Karolkowa 30 At Shoku, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together.

Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton.

Kawiarnia Kawałek ul. Łucka 18 This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend.

Ochota Shuk

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Grójecka 127 For Middle Eastern tastes with a vegan spin then its to Ochota that most people head. Specializing in mezze plates, pide breads and bowls of shakshuka, it’s a special place that has the ability to realign your mojo on an ashen Warsaw day.

Filtry ul. Niemcewicza 3 Say the name with reverence: Poland’s first specialty coffee café is still going strong after 13-years of business, and that’s on account of their fiendish devotion to quality and product.

The clattery, boho atmosphere helps as well, creating an atmosphere that’s ideal for catching up on emails.

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Powiśle/Solec Bez Gwiazdek ul. Wiślana 8 Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city!

Asfalt ul. Tamka 37 The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Take stock of your purchases over alt. coffees served inside mugs crafted by the nearby Fenek ceramic studio.

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The Cool Cat

Fabryczna

ul. Solec 38 Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent!

ul. Fabryczna 28/30 Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2020

LAS ul. Solec 44 This rail-side communist pavilion has been transformed courtesy of a thorough makeover featuring a jungle of plants, low, muted lighting and the addition of smart charcoal colors and revamped retro fittings. Food-wise, expect natural Polish flavors galore: the potato pancakes with goulash are a winner.

Dyletanci ul. Rozbrat 44A The engaging bistro vibe aside, it’s the manner in which they marry food and drink that really strikes a chord. The inventive cooking of Rafał Hreczaniuk is already well-known around the city, but credit also to co-owner Maciej Sondij who has built one of the country’s finest and most exciting wine lists.

Stor ul. Tamka 33 Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed.

Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. warsawinsider.pl

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Wilanów Thai Street ul. Gieysztora 2 There’s no shortage of ethnic tastes in Wilanów, but none elicit quite the same enthusiasm as Thai Street, an attractive and contemporary space whose menu hits home runs with its aromatic Asian cuisine.

Café Plakatówka The Beer Store Al. Rzeczypospolitej 14 While many locals rightfully claim The Beer Store to be the best bar in the district, it’s original function as a shop should not be forgotten either: there’s 400 beers to pore over, with the international range including a number of progressive breweries. Without this place, Wilanów wouldn’t be the same!

ul. Hlonda 2 A colorful venue that describes itself as half café/half gallery.

Find plenty of pops of color from the Polish poster are on the walls, bookshelves filled with literature that broaches arty subjects and a menu that celebrates local produce and artisan tastes.

Ursynów ul. Wagów 20 African restaurants have traditionally floundered in Warsaw, but there’s no danger of that happening at Tako, a cheerful venture whose trump calling card is an exotic menu offering spicy onion and mustard stews, meat pies, fried plantains and other delicious diversions.

Bar Janusz Pasaż Stokłosy 11 Found in an ugly pavilion and decorated with beer mats and signed cymbals, this Ursynów legend never fails to lift the mood. A place of boozy banter and backslaps, the sheer friendliness of this locale makes it one of Warsaw’s under-the-radar gems.

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ALL PHOTOGRAPHS SOURCED FROM FACEBOOK OR PRESS MATERIAL

Tako African Kitchen

Żoliborz

Mokotów Forteca Kregliccy

Altro Locale

ul. Zakroczymska 12 Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restaurant scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobello’s from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów.

ul. Willowa 9 Presented by chef / owner Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for your attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. Passionate in its approach to modern Italian cuisine, Locale never misses a step.

Jaskółka

Fawory

Pl. Wilsona 4 A standard bearer for eco-minded meals, arrive early for Huveos Rancheros or bowl in later for mains that number BBQ Tofu Burgers with Bourbon. Sporting decorative ceramics, colorful hexagonal floor tiles and soothing white finishes, chilling out becomes even easier over a cinnamon cider or a Spanish bio wine.

ul. Mickiewicza 21 An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”.

You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though and come served inside a lively, gossipy interior that captures the essence of Warsaw café culture.

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Bar Wieczorny ul. Wiśniowa 46 Fixed by some of the biggest names in Polish cocktail culture, the drinks are a serious biz here and, in brighter months, neatly complimented by a beautiful garden set with little lights dangling from the trees.

BioBazar ul. Wołoska 3 A haven of ecologically certified goods and produce, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here on this spot: fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... and on it goes.

Relaks ul. Puławska 48 An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland.

Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA.

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Praga-Północ

Proces Kawki

Łysy Pingwin Pyzy Flaki Gorące ul. Brzeska 29/31 Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery.

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ul. Ząbkowska 11 Founded in 2001, The Bald Penguin was a pioneer of local nightlife and maintains a rugged aesthetic that feels pleasingly Bohemian: scruffy, wooden furniture, loud and lively music, fridges of craft beer and a dark, grubby toilet accessed through the bar.

Great stuff!

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ul. Ks. I. Kłopotowskiego 23/25 More than just a café, at Proces visitors can live out any secret barista fantasies to learn firsthand the secrets behind roasting and brewing specialty coffee.

Beyond their rather good coffee, find also a slew of Made In Poland soft drinks and fermentations.

Praga-Półudnie U Krawca ul. Siennicka 3 Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on.

Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados.

Klubokawiarnia Towarzyska ul. Zwycięzców 49 Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film.

Francuska 30 ul. Francuska 30 The brollies that dangle teasingly over the terrace are one of Saska’s most photographed sights, but this café earns its visitors by providing ace coffee brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, as well as a range of French crepes and above-average cocktails. Cool, minimal and reassuringly artistic, it’s a café that feels central to the social function of Saska.

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Centrum Praskie Koneser

W

hen Centrum Praskie Koneser first opened for business in 2018, that it would make an impact on Praga was expected – perhaps less anticipated was the attention it would receive not just from the rest of Warsaw, but the world as well.

And if that sounds like hollow PR hype, then no, we’re afraid it’s not. News of the launch of the Polish Vodka Museum made everything from the Chicago Tribune and Frommer’s right the way down to more obscure titles

such as The Jakarta Post and the Jamaica Observer; elsewhere, Zoni found itself named one of the ‘seven most beautiful restaurants in the world’, while Koneser Grill performed well enough to earn a notable mention in the Michelin Guide. Not bad at all.

The publicity, however, has not been a fluke. Set in the revitalized space of a former vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by

its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer. Representing the buzzing new heart of the Praga district, never before in Poland has the term mixed-use been used with such accuracy.

And binding it all together is the Koneser Square, a chic public space that’s come into its own element by presenting a season-round busy roster of events, concerts, fairs, performances, screenings and more

– and with such a generous footprint, it offers the hottest commodity of this strange little year: oodles of personal space. It’s become not just Praga’s diamond, but Warsaw’s as well.

Centrum Praskie Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu

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Best of the

Listings IN ADDITION TO THE AFOREMENTIONED MOVERS AND SHAKERS, WE’VE CUT THE WHEAT FROM THE CHAFF THIS ISSUE TO BRING YOU ONLY OUR VERY FAVORITE RESTAURANTS IN THE… BEST OF THE LISTINGS! warsawinsider.pl

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Eat! listings american KOKO & ROY

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Spotlighting ‘New American Cuisine’, the thrust here is on comfort food, albeit several steps beyond what you’d rustle up at home: the Odds & Ends (deep fried pigs tails and chicken hearts tumbled into a big bowl and served with pickled red onions and a lash of sriracha aioli) are bold, unexpected and utterly delicious. Fun, innovative and pleasingly casual, it’s a bit like visiting friends who really know how to cook. Take it all in inside a brill interior that’s all Sputnik lights, intriguing artwork and mustard-toned finishes. ul. Wilcza 43

author’s cuisine BEZ TYTUŁU

Gosh. Co-owned by the Kasia Michalski Gallery to the flank, the restaurant feels like a natural extension: find contemporary art and photography set against raw brickwork while pendant bulbs cast a soft light down. Onto the important stuff, and Erwan Debono’s menu makes much of his native French background as well as Poland’s own rich access to produce. The results come together in a way that’s nuanced and subtle. ul. Poznańska 16

DYLETANCI

See p. 37. ul. Rozbrat 44A

LOFT

Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of

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playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. ul. Złota 11

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul.

Oleandrów 8

NIEWINNI CZARODZIEJE 2.0

Kuba Wojewódzki, a.k.a. Poland’s biggest media celeb, has caused tremors by joining forces with restaurateur Józef Krawczyk to unleash a cool, post-industrial venue that strives to be one third club and two thirds restaurant. Swank and arty but also surprisingly affordable, it’s already made waves for its clever international menu and casual vibe. ul. Zajęcza 2B

RESTAURACJA FORTY See p. 23. ul. Racławicka 99

duo that founded Aromat back in 2014.

Sourcing theirs from a small French mill, the attention to detail has not been lost even as Aromat have blossomed to cover numerous addresses around Warsaw. And aside from bread, also anticipate a choice of coffee and pastries – the lemon eclairs deserve their own fan club. Various locations

CAŁA W MĄCE

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” “My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!”

Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul.

Krasińskiego 18

RANO

Set on upcoming Stalowa street, the number of top restaurants that are using this place to source their bread is indicative of their unquestioned quality.

Looking – and smelling – exactly as you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do so, find their offer given an extra boost by indulgences such as brioches and scones. ul. Stalowa 47

chinese

ROZBRAT 20

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” See p. 25. ul. Rozbrat 20

bakeries AROMAT

“Good bread needs good flour,” says Mathieu, one half of the mother / son

PAŃSKA 85

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet

aware that these listings reference both the good old days of gastronomy and, * Be hopefully, the brighter days ahead (please God!). We do not take into account the restaurant shutdown that was in operation at press time

Eat! listings to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1

comfort food BURGER BAR

Warsaw has come full-circle: years after

burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul.

Krucza 41/43

KURA

Pairing fried chicken with double-fried chunky chips, think of this budget stop as an artisanal take on KFC for the post-hipster generation. And best of all, check their homemade sauces: from the tart and spicy Challenger No. 3, to the tangy Mango-BBQ option, these are sauces that open the gateway to addiction. ul. Nowolipki 15

KUR & WINO

See p. 21. ul. Andersa 21

PALOMA NAD WISŁĄ

Attached to the modern art museum, people flood here to enjoy an atmospheric wooden-decked terrace, an exciting choice of spritzers and food that captures the zeitgeist: artisanal cheeseboards; stuffed rotis; fish tacos; vegan ice cream and so much more. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47

PASTRAMI BISTRO

This place was practically designed for the new millennial: craft beers, hanging succulents, neon signage and a communal table. Using pastrami as their hero ingredient (you’d never have guessed, right?), find it inside sandwiches, burgers, bowls of shakshuka and even on pizza. Love it! ul. Solec 50

POGROMCY MEATÓW

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

ZKURCZYBYK

See p. 24. ul. Poznańska 7

desserts FRANK WARSZAWA

Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul.

Polna 18/20

KUKUŁKA

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” See p. 27. ul. Mokotowska 52

LOKAL DELA KREM

That you can now buy vegan, mojito-flavored cupcakes in Warsaw is an indication of the city’s fanatical commitment to healthy living. A

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2020

GURU REDEFINES

MODERN INDIAN CUISINE

Our focus from the start has been to create modern Indian dishes and drinks, served in a relaxed space. We combine local seasonal ingredients with the authentic flavors, aromas and spices of India and the orient.

Widok 8, Warszawa www.gururestauracja.pl facebook.com/gururestauracja TEL. 22 857 0604

Eat! listings roaring success, the first vegan cake shop in the country has become a local staple. ul. Hoża 27A

MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even

by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul.

Wilcza 62

fine dining BELVEDERE ŁAZIENKI KRÓLEWSKIE

Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu. But behind the gels and emulsions and pretty little swirls, this is cooking of substantial depth; it’s cooking that takes you to the very soul of Polish nature. ul. Agrykoli 1

NOBU

See p. 7. ul. Wilcza 73

NOLITA

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul.

Wilcza 46

SIGNATURE

See p. 11. ul. Ossolińskich 3

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy.

Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul.

Poznańska 15

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

SZÓSTKA

EPOKA

The flagship restaurant of the Raffles Europejski has cut no corners in their bid to become one of the city’s top restaurants. A seriously swish interior of pearl white colors is teed-up against contemporary flashes (hexagonal lighting, outsized plates hanging from the wall) and gleaming silverware.

Enjoying precisely composed dishes

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such as beetroot tartar or Dover Sole is a well-tailored crowd that expects nothing but the best. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2020

See p. 29. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

ZONI

Located in a former Tsarist era vodka distillery, the interior revels in cast iron kilns, flooring produced from 19th century vodka barrels, long shadows and industrial bits and pieces that

have been lovingly restored. Chef Michał Gniadek has already earned a name as a star of tomorrow and his menu is a committed foray into what he terms as “seasonal international cuisine with a Polish twist”. Think BBQ pork ribs that land with a thwunk, Agnolotti pasta expertly folded over Oscypek cheese and tuna served tataki-style. Pl. Konesera 1

food halls ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” See p. 10. ul. Dobra 42

HALA GWARDII

Set within a charmingly distressed piece of Tsarist-era brickwork, it’s not just the depth of the offer that has kept crowd figures high, but the quality as well. Standouts in this food hall are too numerous to mention, but hat tips go towards the Gorilla coffee point; the meaty treats of Beef’n’Roll; the delicious dumplings at I Love Pierogi; and the English-style spuds served

by Pieczone Ziemniaki. Last but not least, no-one in Poland scoops better ice cream than the team at Ice Pot. Pl. Mirowska 2

HALA KOSZYKI

Nirvana for the aspirational classes, careful surgery has preserved the heritage of this early 20th century marketplace and juxtaposed it against the urban tapestry of modern Warsaw.

Appealing to everyone from foodies and families to Instagram scenesters, its success has sparked a nationwide wave of doubles and duplicates.

But despite their best efforts, none come close to feeling quite so global.

Walking around Koszyki, find all from Korean noodles, Spanish tapas, Mexican burritos, Greek kebabs and so much more. ul. Koszykowa 63

Eat! listings french L’ARC

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul.

Puławska 16

georgian RUSIKO

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

SANTORINI

Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7

SOFRA

A highly respected Turkish eatery with a wondrous beef mussaka and a wholly admirable lineup of other ethnic dishes: the lamb shashlik has never failed us.

Pleasingly informal, this neighborhood redoubt feels cheerfully unforced. An easy place to hang around in, it’s an Insider favorite for drawn-out, boozy dinners. ul. Wilcza 71

BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

greek & turkish MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

BOMBAJ MASALA

MYKONOS

You’re struck first by the sheer size

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2020

feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Al. Jana Pawła II 23

BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA

Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art.

Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street foodstyle tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

CURRY HOUSE

Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54

indian Known for their raucous dusk-till-dawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” See p. 26. ul. Londyńska 16

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of Mykonos – it’s simply immense.

Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul.

Grzybowska 62

Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue

GURU

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste.

And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8

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Eat! listings italian

breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

ALTRO LOCALE

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” See p. 39. ul. Willowa 9

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA See p. 22. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck

japanese ARIGATOR

This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings,

Design

braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. ul. Piękna 54

SAKANA SUSHI & STICKS

It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. ul. Moliera 4/6

SATO GOTUJE

Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul. Pawińskiego 24

SHOKU

See p. 35. ul. Karolkowa 30

UKI UKI

Epoka ul. Ossolińskich 3 Sweeping back a curtain, the reception reveals itself in a joy of plush forest-colored fabrics, wavy black and white floor patterns and a gleaming chandelier that hangs miles above.

Stepping beyond, the principal dining room is both high impact and theatrical but also low-key and intimate: preserved 19th century cornices, dark baroque-style drapes and an enveloping sense of luxury at its purest. For more raucous gatherings, a separate chamber sits close by and has been designed in a Romany-style whose warm auburn shades pair with exotic glass lighting. Stunning to look at, it’s an interior that matches the restaurant’s own Michelin ambitions.

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BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right.

Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul. Krucza 23/31

WABU

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful

Eat! listings compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire)

braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking tiger that gazes from the wall. ul. Olesińska 2

YATTA

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. ul. Wronia 45

Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw.

Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. ul. Bartoszewicza 3

SORA

latin & spanish

korean THE COOL CAT

See p. 36. ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

KOREANKA

A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle.

Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. ul.

Koszykowa 59

KOREATOWN REST

Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam,

CEVICHE BAR

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with musthaves including the salmon tiraditos.

Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul.

Twarda 4

TAPAS GASTROBAR

The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and

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Eat! listings

Around the table DINNER FOR ONE Bibenda ul. Nowogrodzka 10 Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind!

quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. ul. Grzybowska 63

mexican DOS TACOS

DINNER FOR TWO

Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers.

But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. ul.

Jasna 22

Ale Wino

EL POPO

ul. Mokotowska 48 You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not.

DINNER FOR TWENTY-TWO Restauracja Warszawska Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa) Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this prewar skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota.

Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere.

A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. ul. Senatorska 27

GRINGO BAR

A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done. Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. ul. Odolańska 15

LA SIRENA

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” You don’t even have to think twice

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2020

Eat! listings when asked to name the best Mexican in the capital. Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/ beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

SENOR LUCAS

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on ul.

Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that

sits there with the best. Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of tacos and burritos stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy hot salsas and big flavor contrasts. ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)

middle eastern LE CEDRE

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer.

Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops.

Al. Solidarności 61

LE CEDRE 84

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends.

Al. Solidarności 84

MAGHREB

Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual.

The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams

Inspired by the cuisine of Lebanon, Turkey, Israel, Tunisia and Egypt, visit Bliski Wschód for a concept unique to Warsaw!

Vegan and vegetarian dishes await that will surprise with more than just their taste.

Authentic to a tee, this is where lovers of food and books can revel in the true atmosphere of the Middle East! ul. Złota 11, tel. 668 016 979

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Eat! listings

polish

affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. ul. Wierzbowa 9/11

BEZ GWIAZDEK

FERMENT PRASKI

with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9

See p. 36. ul. Wiślana 8

ELIXIR BY DOM WÓDKI

The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life

Following a chic neo-bistro format, chef Michał Kornas presents global recipes cooked with seasonal Polish produce inside a stylishly casual, modern interior. Despite the varied scope of the menu, it is the local dishes that warrant the most praise, in particular,

Family

those directly influenced by the Praga neighborhood. Modernized for the 21st century palette, these include ‘Prague Zeppelins’ stuffed with meat.

Pl. Konesera 10A

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. ul.

Próżna 12

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

THE FARM

Der Elefant Pl. Bankowy 1 This leviathan restaurant unravels in a maze of wrought iron and monochrome tiles – beautiful to look at (it was created

by Oscar-winning set designer Allan Starski), it’s caused a stir for more than just this alone. Where once the menu looked like it was devised by throwing darts at a cookbook, the focus has now been narrowed. While some of the dishes are strictly middling, the filet mignon (zł. 69) is one of the best meat deals in town in terms of quality / price / consistency. And when it comes to kids, their dedicated play area and ball pit is something else.

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BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Preaching a message of farm-to-fork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. ul.

Mokotowska 8

Eat! listings #290

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

NOVEMBER 2020

OCTOBER 2020 Beer we go! From Warsaw’s first craft brewery to the best of its tap rooms, we take a dip into the world of craft beer – p. 46

PLUS: THE HAUNTED HISTORY OF OTWOCK – p. 72

PLUS: OUR COVER SNAPPER SPEAKS – p. 14

Concrete finishes, illuminated tubes of light, glass block walls and graphic illustrations lend a slick smartness to this narrow, bluish space. Busy with start-up entrepreneurs and off-duty business bods, they’re here to enjoy the food that connects vodka with the forgotten classics of inter-war Warsaw. With items like duck tongues on the menu, and a shared address with the Vodka Museum, these are ambitions that are realized. Pl. Konesera 1 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ

A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that

good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. ul. Smolna 4

classic polish DAWNE SMAKI

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” The atmospheric interiors hark to bygone years, while in sunnier times the back garden promises an oasis-like experience: if you’re new to Warsaw, it’s actually worth hanging around a few months just to see it. Specializing in traditional cuisine, the deer steak is recommended by all who try it. ul.

Nowy Świat 49

www.curry-house.pl

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DELICJA POLSKA

Looking stately (pink bows, gilt touches and immaculate linen) but never stuffy, Delicja have a modern Polish menu that includes sous-vide salmon marinated in beetroot leaves, then topped with horseradish foam and dill emulsion. Brilliant. But then so was everything else we tried, including the exquisite seasoned roast beef. ul.

Krakowskie Przedmieście 64

LOKALNA BISTRONOMIA

The menu summons the spirit of Old Praga with appearances from heritage dishes such as sour-rye soup, Silesian dumplings, potato pie and chopped liver. Everything screams Made in Poland, right down to a drinks list that involves beer from the local Maryensztadt brewery. ul. Nieporęcka 6

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Eat! listings PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31

RESTAURACJA POLSKA “RÓŻANA”

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain

burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. ul. Chocimska 7

SCHABOWY

The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul.

Obrzeżna 1

Breakfast

Europejski Grill ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Warsaw) Roughly ranked round about No. 87 in the series of questions that the Insider team hears each and every day, “where can I have breakfast” is one of those age old queries often thrown down as a challenge. And by God, the Europejski every time! The rarefied atmosphere of this Raffles branded hotel is enough for most people, but for others it’s about the best eggs benedict in the city, the buffet station groaning with cured farmhouse meats and artisan cereals and, most of all, their English-style breakfast: it’s a joy of fried proteins of the highest quality!

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STARY DOM

A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106

seafood L’ARC

Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz.

Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. ul. Puławska 16

LOKAL NA RYBĘ

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation that makes reservations almost mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a pop-up, the simple surrounds are outweighed by a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4

specialty food shops BAZAR OLKUSKA

Once a sad little side street, Olkuska has evolved to become just about the worst kept secret in Warsaw. Home to the city’s top eco-market, trips here end with shopping bags filled with French cheeses, Italian hams, Hungarian

Eat! listings sausages and fresh fruit and veg. ul.

Olkuska 12

BIOBAZAR

See p. 39. ul. Wołoska 3

DOBRZE CO-OP

The Dobrze Food Co-op aims to ‘widen access to healthy, seasonal food’ while also supporting sustainable agriculture. Founded in summer, 2014, the project collaborates with over 20 farms and local businesses and sells fresh vegetables and fruit alongside cereals, dried goods and other bits and pieces. ul. Wilcza 29A & ul. Andersa 27

fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin. ul. Nowogrodzka 47A

BYKBAR

Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality

meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. ul. Rozbrat 8

BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution.

Now an institution in its own right, this

FORTECA KREGLICCY

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” See p. 39. ul. Zakroczymska 12

HALA MIROWSKA

As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Pl. Mirowski 1

steak houses BEEF N’ PEPPER

Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff

SASKA KĘPA, ul. Francuska 6, 733 323 233 WILANÓW, ul. Klimczaka 1, 791 027 070 CENTER, ul. Krucza 6/14, 22 465 18 36 (pickup and delivery) ŻOLIBORZ, Plac Inwalidów 10, 22 322 82 28 (pickup and delivery) www.pinsa.pl fb.com/pinsaWarszawa | Insta.com/pinsa_warszawa

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Eat! listings cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital. ul. Żurawia 22

HOŻA

Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A

KONESER GRILL

See p. 6. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” See p. 19. ul. Walecznych 64

MOKOTOWSKA 69

Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed.

On our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel,

and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. ul. Mokotowska 69

thai

have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. Pl. Bankowy 4

BANGKOK SOI

russian & ukrainian

THAI THAI

REST.BACZEWSKICH

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” See p. 16. Al. Jana Pawła II 50

A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. Pl. Teatralny 3

THAISTY

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv.

Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in. Al. Szucha 17/19

SKAMIEJKA

As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces (album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds), the welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food is hefty, comfort-driven and ideal for long, wintry nights. ul. Ząbkowska 37

vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par

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Eat! listings fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. ul. Wilcza 60

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO

Offering a new menu daily, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover.

Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. ul. Krucza 23/31

like Clockwork Orange and Pizzaghetti. ul. Marszałkowska 68/70

TAHINA

There’s so much to love about Tahina that it’s hard to know where to begin: eventually, though, thoughts will inevitably turn to Warsaw’s best wrap.

Contained within a featherlight lavash, the falafels are a different class. One bite and you’ve found heaven. ul.

Wilcza 26

TEL AVIV

A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. ul. Poznanska 11

VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

Nothing short of a phenomenon, that they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand.

Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant

cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade game and a pink surfboard), their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ Order the spicy miso ramen and you too will become a convert. ul Finlandzka 12 a, ul. Kazimierzowska 43 & Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54

UKI GREEN

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. ul.

Koszykowa 49A

YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI

Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. ul. Hoża 62

NO PROBLEM

See p. 21. ul. Bracka 20

PRZYJEMNOŚĆ WEGE

It’s a squeeze alright, with all manner of jiggling and jostling needed before taking your position amid a design that feels cool and millennial: plants, wire mesh panels and a bit of funky neon.

Food-wise: expect seriously inventive, high quality pizzas with far out names

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Drink! listings dive bars 2KOŁA

Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B

MIEJSCE CHWILA

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. ul. Żurawia 47

OFFSIDE

Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers

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from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. ul. Brzeska 16

PRASKA

For Praga at its craziest and most creative, Praska doesn’t disappoint.

Beers from Brooklyn Brewery keep the open-minded crowd lubricated with other amusements arriving in the form of regular DJs and a quite extraordinary interior: Christmas lights, giant, toy tigers, heaps of plants and other scrapyard finds dominate what rates as our weirdest discovery of 2019. ul.

Brzeska 23

ŚWIETLICA

Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. ul. Marszałkowska 17

W OPARACH ABSURDU

Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar.

On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. ul.

Ząbkowska 6, oparyabsurdu.pl

after work classics THE ALCHEMIST

A small place with a big bag of tricks: upscale gastro-pub grub from Brit chef Ed Shellard, fancy cocktails, and a self-serve wall of beer from a choice of global brewers. Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’,

but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right.

From the off, it’s a place that screams, “off with the tie, there’s drinks to be had!” Pl. Piłsudskiego 3

CENTRAL BAR

The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails such as Pimm’s under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and three years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

ELEKTROWNIA POWISŁE

The indoor food hall indoors opens out into a sea of neon signs and a sleek, manicured crowd posing for selfies over cocktails. And yes, drinks are every bit as important here as the food.

Having first filed past security that are there to enforce pandemic hygiene rules, guests then choose between a craft beer vending station or the two principle bars that bookend the complex: Centrala Bar at one end or the more cocktail-driven Kandela at the other. ul. Dobra 42

LEGENDS

Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. ul. Emilii Plater 25

STIXX

A slick industrial design and a location in the long shadow of the Warsaw Spire keeps this venue’s huge dimensions occupied with workers fleeing their

Drink! listings offices once the clock strikes five.

Even with the terrace roof now rolled back in for winter, there aren’t many better spots in which to enjoy the noble tradition of an after-work pint. Pl. Europejski 4A

WOZOWNIA

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Set in a 200-year-old carriage house within a secretive courtyard, Wozownia started life looking raw and ramshackle – in parts, it still does, but that’s not to say improvements haven’t been made, not least to a Lynch-esque winter garden that feels brilliantly dream-like.

Drinks-wise, kick-ass cocktails sell just as well as the Prosecco, which remains arguably the cheapest glass of sparkly you’ll find in the city. Pair that with a sceney crowd of off-duty DJs, camp dudes with manbags and slender nightlife creatures and you have a place that feels on the front end of hip.

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 16

it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm.

And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares.

Pl. Defilad 1

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades,

sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar.

As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. ul. Poznańska 12, beirut.com.pl

late night legends BAR PACYFIK

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. ul. Hoża 61

BAR STUDIO

The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if

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Drink! listings FOTON

See p. 22. ul. Wilcza 9A

GRAM

Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

KLUBOKAWIARNIA TOWARZYSKA

Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film.

Craft beers and a smoking zone earn bonus points. ul. Zwycięzców 49

KOKO & ROY

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Somewhere along the line Koko & Roy have blossomed into one of the Insider’s favorite weekend nights. With its quirky-cool design, multinational crowd and funky sounds, it’s the kind of place you hit pre-club before deciding to drop the club bit altogether. And in the event that things are slow, you can rely on the owners to grab the evening by the horns and lead you down a murky rabbit hole involving off-the-cuff cocktails and offbeat conversation.

Before you know it, by God, is it really nearly three? ul. Wilcza 43

PLAN B

Plan B is the very essence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out

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under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. ul.

Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela)

live entertainment HYDROZAGADKA / CHMURY Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the low-ceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul.

11 Listopada 22

KLUB POGŁOS

Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul.

Burakowska 12

PARDON TO TU

See p 24. Al. Armii Ludowej 14

WOREK KOŚCI

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated

with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. ul.

Bagatela 10

specialty coffee ASFALT

See p. 36. ul. Tamka 37

COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Wilcza 42

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind.

Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public.

Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul. Hoża 58/60

FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most

Drink! listings Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul. Andersa 6

pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

FORUM

This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. ul. Łucka 18

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big

HAŁAS VINYL + COFFEE See p. 27. ul. Jagiellońska 30 & Elsterska 10

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA See p. 36. ul. Fabryczna 28/30

KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK

RELAKS

See p. 39. ul. Puławska 48

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. ul.

Wilcza 17

STOR

See p. 37. ul. Tamka 33

U KRAWCA

See p. 41. ul. Siennicka 3

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Drink! listings clubbing ENKLAWA

Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost. (D3) ul.

Mazowiecka 12

LUZTRO

Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! Al. Jerozolimskie 6

RITUAL

Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. ul. Mazowiecka 12

SEN

Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wall-to-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars.

Sod the bank account, you think, bring

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me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. ul. Wioślarska 6

SMOLNA

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. ul. Smolna 38

to such an extent that those who use this speakeasy for pre-club drinks often find themselves skipping the club bit altogether. And why bother with anywhere else when you have masterpiece cocktails that are immaculate, imaginative and mixed with practiced expertise. ul. Koszykowa 49A

CEVICHE BAR

See p. 17. Pl. Konesera 4

Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. ul.

Twarda 4

SPATIF

CHARLIE

SYRENI ŚPIEW KONESER

Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control Al. Ujazdowskie 45

cocktails AURA

See p 12. ul. Hoża 27

BACK ROOM

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Plush fabrics, muted lighting, intuitive service, a well-scrubbed crowd, a flickering fireplace and shelves displaying drinks as if they were trophies: the ambiance is nailed down

Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. ul.

Mokotowska 39

CUBA LIBRE RUM & CIGAR HOUSE

Envelope yourself in luxury at Cuba Libre, a no expense spared venture aimed at those who deal with nothing but the best. Gathering the bright and the beautiful inside sophisticated tobacco-colored interiors, the warming ambiance is primed for an evening of cigars and conversation over pedigree-style cocktails and limited edition rums. ul. Poznańska 37

EL KOKTEL

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents

Drink! listings any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. ul.

Wojciecha Górskiego 9l

KONESER BAR 3/4

Perched on the top of the Polish Vodka Museum this bar offers more than just stonking views of the Praga district from their sunny terrace: of note are beautiful vodka-based cocktails prepared in an atmospheric interior molded from carefully restored raw materials. Pl. Konesera 1

this trademark drink. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

LORETA

See p. 12. ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

MR. OH

A semi-secret world for those In The Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio Chłapowski-Myjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asian-themed cocktails and an A-list crowd await. Al. 3 Maja / ul. Kruczkowskiego

LA SIRENA

Though primarily known as the best Mexican restaurant in the country, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well. Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. ul. Piękna 54

LONG BAR

Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of

PODWALE BAR & BOOKS

Occupying the kind T ofR charismatic gatehouse you’d read C P T M about in Dickens, position yourself C W in front ≈of the upstairs fireplace for a W C ≈ celebratory cigar and a glass of someC C ≈ and lovely: the cocktails are thing Ttall ≈ of their own and specifically in aPclass E ≈ customized for the season. Spooling, L S silent Bond films, regular burlesque P B B shows and random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. ul. Wąski Dunaj 20 HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

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HAMPAGNE

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RIVATE

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Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

REGINABAR

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little ItalyV with China Town next door. The O L i n Y a P menu rocks, but find it augmented by www.barandbooks.pl a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. ul. Koszykowa 1 n

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12.08.15 20:49

WELES

Named after the Slavic god of the underworld, everything about Weles evokes the spirit of indulgence: a zinc 1920s ceiling imported from the States, a crystal chandelier and a wooden bar carved from a British carousel. A work of refined craftsmanship, the cocktails stand out as the most sophisticated in the city. ul. Nowogrodzka 11

craft beer CHMIELARNIA MARSZAŁKOWSKA

A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

CRAFT BEER MURANÓW

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers. ul. Andersa 23

CUDA NA KIJU

Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid, socialist era arcades.

Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls, queue

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Drink! listings inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. Watching the sunset while looking out towards the city’s iconic palm tree installations is a pure Warsaw moment. ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

JABEERWOCKY

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs.

Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul.

Nowogrodzka 25

SAME KRAFTY

Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their

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approval rating. ul. Nowomiejska 10

for gentlemen 1 SUN SALON

For something naughty but nice 1 Sun Salon offers body-to-body tantric massage with just about the happiest ending you could possibly wish for.

Staffed with flighty college girls, and equally welcoming to stag groups as they are business travelers, head here to wallow in plush VIP rooms while every whim and fancy is satisfied and served. ul. Marszałkowska 24/26

PLAYHOUSE

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” Housed in a former subterranean bomb shelter, the talk now is of bombshells: namely the 57 stunners they’ve got listed on their books. Inspired by high class joints in London and Vegas, it’s a refined choice with a no-pressure atmosphere and door staff that don’t look like they’re going to kick your head in. Al. Solidarności 82A

wine bars ALE WINO

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. ul. Mokotowska 48

BUBBLES

Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex

nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance.

A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Damn right there’s a lot to like at Bubbles, but there’s even more to love. Pl. Piłsudskiego 9

DYLETANCI

BEST WAWA 2020 “Winner” The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel.

Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). ul.

Rozbrat 44

MIELŻYŃSKI WINE BAR

Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. ul. Burakowska 5/7 (also on Czerska 12)

NOWINA

The striking interior that catches the eye from across the street – restored pre-war tiling, glinting surfaces, a world map rendered from corks and an engaging reddish glow all do their bit to lend Nowina the kind of atmosphere that’s missing in most local wine bars. Add to that an exciting international menu and a selection of over 400 wines and you have an absolute winner. ul. Nowogrodzka 4

PHOTOGRAPHS BY MARCIN WOJDAK

Into The Unknown The Insider meets up with Marcin Wojdak to learn more about his love of urbex photography…

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WI: What’s your fascination with urbex?

MK: We live in dynamic times that are dominated by consumption culture. Urbex is the opposite of all that. I can find peace in abandoned places, as well as reminders that our greedy civilization isn’t as indestructible as it likes to think.

Any favorite discoveries?

For sure my No. 1 this year is the Wilga holiday resort in Rudno.

During the RPL it was a holiday spot for prominent PZPR activists and the canteen and kindergarten were superb examples of post-war modernism. The glazed facades, mosaics, murals and stained glass have been largely preserved and look fantastic.

How about Warsaw?

A personal favorite is the former Hungarian Trade Agency on ul.

Szwoleżerów. Architecturally it was a fabulous project that won the 1973 Mr. Warsaw prize to find the city’s best new building. More importantly, it remains in practically mint condition and looking just like it did back in the 1970s.

What kind of places appeal most to you?

Two things in particular: I love the recreation centers that were built during Communism as they’re often beautifully located and architecturally compelling. On top of that, I also find Cold War military facilities rather special whether they be nuclear shelters, bunkers or just former military facilities – it’s as if you can almost feel the fear and paranoia of WWIII. Do you have any golden rules?

The principles of savoir vivre are the same everywhere, but perhaps one resounds stronger than others – don’t destroy anything!

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Any disasters to report!

Well, I don’t know anyone who has died and I haven’t lost any equipment! Contrary to expectation, urbex can be a very safe pursuit.

And your ultimate urbex fantasy?

I wish the craze for urbex would disappear! I’ve been doing this for eighteen or so years and I’ve never seen abandoned places being treated worse than they are now by urbexers.

For more of Marcin’s photography, see: instagram. com/cosmoderna

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health & beauty spas & salons

CREAMY

Creamy Creative Cosmetics offering a wide range of cosmetics which are based mainly on the deeply nourishing Haitian Moringa Oil. Created by Zofia Pinchinat-Witucka, a Haitian-Pole whose life goal has been to bring the two countries closer, Creamy’s cosmetics are vegan and cruelty-free and do not contain any synthetic dyes nor fragrances, petroleum components, sulphates or silicones. ul. Chmielna 6 (Warsaw), creamy.pl

FIFTH AVENUE

Originating in Dublin, Fifth Avenue specialize in luxurious facials, waxing, massages and treatments for the hands and feet. Using a range of OPI varnishes and creams specially created for them in Germany, they’ve become synonymous with top-class treatments. ul. Mokotowska 49, fifthavenuewarszawa.pl

shopping accessories ALBA 1913

Founded in 1913 by Mieczysław Rychlicki, Alba’s high performance, self-care essentials harness three

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generations of herbal wisdom to create a range of cosmetics inspired by ideals of health-powered holistic beauty. ul. Mysia 3 (second floor)

MO61

Billed as a ‘perfume laboratory’, Mo61 allows customers to create their own scents under the expert guidance of staff trained by Zygmunt Marczewski (“the best nose in Poland”!). ul. Mokotowska 61

PINGLE OPTYK

A collection of hand-selected designer eyewear that is serious in terms of quality control, but entirely whimsical when it comes to design. ul. Hoża 40

fashion CLOUDMINE

Presenting fashion lines and design items from a personally selected pool of Polish designers and artists, Cloudmine’s philosophy is built around support for young, independent and upcoming designers. “We don’t chase trends and one-season brands,” they says, “instead, we love classics, minimalism and style.” ul.

Paryska 17

FEMI STORIES

Aimed at the young, active woman of today, Femi Pleasure’s dynamic range of clothing is both urban and outdoorsy. ‘Unique design, quality and comfort’ are the sacred three pillars upon which their philosophy is built. ul. Browarna 4, femistories.com

LOLLY POP BOUTIQUE

Latest fashion from See by Chloe, Calvin Klein, Calvin Klein Jeans, Melissa, UnitedNude, Bronx and many more. For online shopping, check: sklep.lollypop.pl Al. Jerozolimskie 169 lok 45A (C.H. Blue City, level 1)

LUI STORE

Elegant female fashion store with brands including Attico, Rixo London, 3.1 Philip Lim, Les Coyottes de Paris, Jonathan Simkhai, as well as lesser-known names making their first in-roads into the world of high fashion. ul. Mokotowska 26

MMC

Founded by Ilona Majer and Rafał Michalak, MMC have earned a name for unconventional designs manufactured using non-standard materials. ul. Żurawia 2

MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE

Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

REYKJAVIK DISTRICT

Chic, well-cut menswear for all occasions as designed by upcoming Icelandic native Olly Lindal. ul.

Burakowska 15

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the city’s rich Jewish past. ul.

Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

museums CENTER OF CONTEMPORARY ART (CSW)

One of the leading gallery spaces in Poland – and even if not, just creeping around the corridors of this baroque castle is a thrill in itself. ul.

Jazdów 2, u-jazdowski.pl

COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

A visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. And those assuming an ethnographic

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museums lack punch are in for a surprise: exhibitions are brilliant in their scope, wit and quirkiness and have included explorations of the Disco Polo genre, Hungarian erotica, iconic streetwear, etc. ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space.

The big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.museum

JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE

Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and rummage through a room mocked-up to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films or paw at vintage keep-fit gear. ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM ON THE VISTULA

Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has seen a number of edgy contemporary exhibitions including, most recently, one dedicated to the works of Miriam Cahn. ul.

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars. That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign

to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum houses several dozen neons that once lit up the capital and beyond. ul.

Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

The Polish Vodka Museum features five thematic rooms that do a slick and entertaining job of documenting the national tipple. Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged bottles and an interactive room in which visitors learn can test their knowledge on a quiz machine . Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

MUSEUM OF PRAGA

The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy

as that of the big institutions.

Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul.

Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming.

Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

THE ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW

Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamek-krolewski.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

When it comes to the definitive story of the insurgency, the Warsaw Rising Museum

leaves no stone unturned.

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

galleries DOM SPOTKAŃ Z HISTORIĄ

The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics. ul. Karowa 20, dsh. waw.pl

SALON AKADEMII

This exquisite gallery presents artists associated with the Academy of Fine Arts in Warsaw. Individual and group exhibitions feature both Polish and foreign artists. Pl. Konesera 10, salonakademii.asp. waw.pl

ZACHĘTA NATIONAL ART GALLERY

The Zachęta has a busy program of temporary exhibitions that frequently showcase some of the biggest names in domestic and international contemporary art. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

The Home Of Vodka!

Can every vodka produced in Poland be classed as Polish vodka? Has vodka ever coursed down the streets of Warsaw?

What ailments can lizard tail vodka cure?

And why should we never freeze it?

Find these questions answered inside five interactive galleries dedicated to the national drink. Presenting unique exhibitions, film screenings and magnificent bottle collections, the Polish Vodka Museum also offers cocktail workshops and tasting sessions and further houses a prestigious alcohol store and top-floor bar. Guided groups are limited to ten people and masks must be worn at all times. Disinfectants are available at every interactive point and the museum exercises the most stringent hygiene practises.

Polish Vodka Museum Pl. Konesera 1 Open 12:00 – 20:00 (closed Mon), www.pvm.pl

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learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics.

Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs.

The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53, tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul.

Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

THE BRITISH SCHOOL EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Tatrzańska 5a

The British School provides EYFS classes from Pre-nursery (age 30 months) to Reception (5 years old).

Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego 84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

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THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

18.12.2018 12:32

INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve.

The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English,

Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel. 501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages. pl/saint-exupery.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email:

jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728 939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

Admissions open for Early Years, Primary, Secondary and IB

Contact our Admissions Team for a tour or a personalised Virtual Discovery Meeting

admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 www.thebritishschool.pl

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Discover Your Passion

Magda Mazurkiewicz, co-founder of Joy Primary School, talks about how education should aim to develop a child’s natural abilities to prepare them for the rapidly changing world…

INTERVIEW BY EWA ŚWIERŻEWSKA education as opposed to standardization. We should focus on building achievements, on individual talents and on bringing out each child’s individual abilities. The focus must be on creating an environment in which children want to be and where they can discover their passions.

WI: Traditional education systems overstress some areas while neglecting others such as art, music, sports and dance. How can this be changed?

MM: I believe we should equally emphasize mathematics, reading-writing and foreign languages along with music, dance and movement. Ken Robinson, an eminent expert and promoter of new teaching methods, argues personalization should be the key in

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Sport is one such passion. Why is physical activity so important?

Sport not only supports the development of motor skills, but also strengthens the immune, respiratory and nervous systems. It is a counterbalance to the sedentary lifestyle, currently recognized by the WHO as a global public health problem and a high-risk factor for the development of certain civilizational diseases, especially obesity, including in children.

Physical activity also helps maintain mental health, social development, and facilitates making friends. It teaches kids how to deal with stress. It is indispensable in the development of a young person.

The earlier we instill the habit of physical activity in children and cultivate it throughout their education, the greater the chance that young people will consider it to be something natural and fun. According to WHO recommendations, children and adolescents should enjoy at least 60-minutes per day of moderate to vigorous physical activity.

Outdoor physical activity outside is also an opportunity to commune with nature, which modern children often miss. Nature supports proper development - both physical and emotional, it stimulates the senses. It constitutes a kind of bridge between formal and informal learning.

B R O U G H T TO YO U BY

Music, sport and contact with nature must be intertwined with other activities.

I believe that it is worth approaching the topic in a comprehensive way.

Based on observations and many conversations, Richard Louv, author of The Last Child of the Forest, coined the term Nature Deficit Syndrome, the symptoms of which include difficulties with concentration, loss of physical fitness, and an inability to find meaning in the manifestations of life. According to Louv, neglecting contact with nature can be a very big threat to a child and his or her development.

The third piece of the puzzle that is underrated but very important is music...

Music helps us relax, calm down, or stimulate us; it makes us move. Making or playing music while playing an instrument or singing triggers endorphins and brings joy. Music has a very positive effect on a child’s brain.

Playing instruments exercises eareye-hand coordination and develops motor skills. In early childhood, when nerve connections are developing particularly intensively, music develops all kinds of intelligence - kinesthetic, cognitive, logical, and linguistic.

Thanks to music, children cope better with science and humanities, they develop memory, concentration, patience, perseverance and humility.

How should we implement these elements without overloading children, while also implementing the core curriculum?

Music, sport and contact with nature must be intertwined with other activities. I believe that it is worth approaching the topic in a comprehensive way. For example, movement classes can be conducted with music.

Learning poems and other literary works can be done through singing.

During history, reading-writing or art history lessons, it is worth recalling musical works related to the topics discussed. Subjects can be intertwined with activity. Besides, a school can be a school on the move.

We don’t have to learn maths while sitting at the table, we can do it while jumping or walking. We can learn biology in the forest or while walking to a river. If conditions allow, schools can arrange a suitable space on its premises - with wildlife, but also with flower beds or boxes where children can grow plants. There are many possibilities, you just have to want to use them. This requires a change of mentality of both the school, teachers and parents, but it is achievable in small steps.

What would an ideal school look like if we equated science, humanities, languages and music, sports and contact with nature?

It would be a school focused primarily on the individual and on discovering the passion of each child which requires trying many activities and gaining different experiences. It is important to avoid the stress of assessing or grading educational outcomes.

In my opinion, it is worth focusing on comprehensive teaching, on creating a friendly place where children enjoy themselves, where they want to meet, where learning is accompanied by curiosity and pleasure, not stress and compulsion; where the way of teaching is adapted to virtually each student, taking into account different ways of learning.

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TRILINGUAL PRE-SCHOOL AND NURSERY “THREE LANGUAGES” CENTER

The only trilingual pre-school and nursery teaching English, Spanish and Polish through total language immersion. All educators are native speaker pre-school teachers. The comprehensive curriculum follows American, Spanish and Polish curriculum standards. The pre-school was awarded European Language Label in 2012. ul. Karowa 14/16 lok 6 (3-6 year olds); ul. Cicha 5 lok 1 (1-2 year olds), tel. 517 872 682, 3languages.pl

schools AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey.

These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers.

Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE BRITISH SCHOOL

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international

community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience.

The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784 037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist.

Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@

canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, the Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary and pre-school education with a French and international curriculum for children aged from one to twelve.

The fill-immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish / Chinese, or English, Polish, French. Teachers are highly qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain and China. ul. Nobla 16, tel.

501 036 637, ul. Karowa 14/16, tel. 503 072 119, ul. Królowej Aldony 23/25, tel. 533 321 084, 3languages.pl/saint-exupery.pl

the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@ joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding,

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL A leader in the field of Montessori

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

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education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided.

Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul.

Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

company visits and online courses. For a free 60-minute trial email: kontakt@ cupofpolish.com. cupofpolish.com

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

KLUB DIALOGU

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

adult learning CUP OF POLISH

Personalized Polish classes adapted to meet your needs. Also home/

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FROG

Acclaimed language school aimed at all levels of competency. Flexible schedules and a history of working with foreigners make it one of the ‘go to’ choices for new arrivals. ul.

Mazowiecka 12/24, frog.org.pl

Outstanding programs for foreigners living in Poland: a variety of courses aimed at every level. Using over ten years of experience, the leaning process becomes an adventure at Klub Dialogu. ul. Ordynacka 13/5, klubdialogu.pl

for a great souvenir. ul. Wilcza 29

LAMUS

Another antique bookstore that comes filled with leather-bound tomes, regal looking scrolls and elaborate maps.

Also known for their pre-war prints and paintings of Warsaw before it was knocked down. ul. Nowomiejska 7

LAPIDARIUM

Cavalry swords, pre-war Judaica, Orthodox icons, books, scrolls, helmets, cameras, chess sets, jewelry… The opportunities for rummaging are endless. ul. Nowomiejska 15/17

PRIMA PORTA ANTIQUITIES

antiques

At the top end of the scale the German-run Prima Porta specialize in pieces from ancient Rome, Greece, Egypt, Mesopotamia and Asia. ul.

Hlonda 8

ANTYKWARIAT GROCHOWSKI

books

For the undisputed heavyweight of printed material, look for Antykwariat Grochowski, a maze-like space with over 130,000 books in its arsenal.

Among the haul, find Polish comics such as Kapitan Kloss and Kajko i Kokosz, vinyl records, graphic art and old currency. Truly, it’s one of the wonders of right bank Warsaw. ul.

Kickiego 12

ANTYKWARIAT NA TAMCE Presided over by a super-friendly hippy-looking dude, consider this a mine of rare vinyl (Beatles, Hendrix, Sabbath, weird Polish PRL stuff), as well as 15,000 comics and books. ul.

Tamka 45B

KWADRYGA

Antique books, faded photographs, yellowing maps and dog-eared magazines – the atmosphere is timeless.

The PRL-era lifestyle magazines are an amazing insight into the past and make

ATTICUS

You can smell the history in this old curiosity shop; this antiquarian bookstore has a rich stock of dusty tomes piled higgledy-piggledy on towering shelves. English-language texts are also present and procurable in this hoarder’s heaven. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 12

FUNDACJA BĘC ZMIANA

A small curiosity shop selling trendy trinkets and a fair amount of art and architecture books with an accent on modern Warsaw. ul. Mokotowska 65/7

KSIĘGARNIA BULLERBYN

A supremely cheerful bookstore peddling everything from pop-up books and fairytales to history and legends.

The ace up their sleeve is a sizeable selection of English-language literature: and that includes The Gruffalo! ul.

Chmielna 10

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

St

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

4 9 km

ska bow

Grzy

2

4 a zysk tokr Swie

ta

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

9

11

1

8 2

3

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2020

3 4 km

7

MAP 5

6

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

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Read on

Gather Round The Table!

A lovingly written and tender tribute to domestic culinary culture, The Polish Table by Magdalena Tomaszewska-Bolałek combines no shortage of recipes and beautiful imagery with the inside histories behind local cooking. Available as a free pdf, and co-financed by the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, it’s inside this comprehensive, bi-lingual tome that readers will learn the favorite dishes King Stanisław Augustus (braised

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Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2020

mutton and oysters), the biggest hits of 18th century royal chef Jan Szyttler (elk nostrils boiled in stock!), the full story behind Poland’s feasting customs and no shortage of tales and legends – such as, for instance, how the town of Suchedniów exchanged a statue of a saint for a bag of groats! An ideal companion for pandemic era kitchen experimentation, download it yourself at: bunkatura.pl/ the-polish-table

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