Warsaw Insider March 2022 #307

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

A tasty trio at Veganda

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MARCH 2022 Features:

Also...

Exploring Nowogrodzka – p. 16 The Breweries That Rocked Poland! – p. 34

The Insider Guide To 48-hrs In Warsaw – p. 12 Architecture profile: WXCA – p. 8

ey Culinary journ Culinary journey through China through China ! with Panska85 with Panska85 FOR RESERVATION: +48 512 671 756 / +22 253 30 30 rezerwacje@panska85.com.pl

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Contents March 2022

Reviews: EAT!

Veganda – p. 39 Frank – p. 41

DRINK!

Cybermachina – p. 55 Piano Bar – p. 57 Po Drodze – p. 58 Charlie Kinoteka – p. 59

DISCOVER

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, COVER PHOTO BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Travel: Warsaw Getaways – p. 67

WHAT’S THAT WE HEAR? An end to restrictions? News that most of Poland’s covid-related rules and regulations will finally be lifted on March 1st could not have come any sooner. Nearly twoyears after this whole bloody bat saga began, only the obligation to wear masks in public places (e.g. stores and public transport) will remain in force when the calendar next flips. That’s good news indeed, especially seeing that there’s a beer festival to go to – keeping pace with Poland’s brew-olution, we’ve brought you a bumper special on the domestic craft movement. Elsewhere this issue, we’ve prepped for the arrival of spring by bringing you the lowdown on the best local breaks, and we’ve also used the improving weather to take a deep dive along Nowogrodzka. We’re not just for old hands either. For those new to the city, we’re pleased to bring you our round-up of Warsaw essentials – and unlike GQ’s Warsaw round-up, we’re not going to pack you off on an eight-hour return trip to the south of the country. Of course, that’s all tail-ended by our usual food and drink reviews – not that there’s anything usual about that lot this month. Hope you enjoy, and see you next time… Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

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In brief

MURALS

A Time For Heroes Warsaw's newest mural recalls the action of a legend...

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ne of Poland’s bestknown economists has been remembered with a giant mural on Tarczyńska 12 on what would have been his 100th birthday. Unveiled on February 6th, the ceremony was attended by a host of dignitaries and veterans. A lecturer at several leading international colleges and universities, Witold Kiezun turned down the Minister of Finance position in Poland’s first post-Communist government and later served as a professor at Warsaw’s prestigious Kozminski University. However, it was for his wartime actions that he was best-remembered for; decorated with Poland’s highest military honors, in August 1944 Kieżun was credited with single-handedly capturing 14 German soldiers during the Warsaw Uprising. Caught on camera right after his heroic effort, Kieżun’s smiling face was to become one of the iconic snapshots of the 63-day battle and it is this image that dominates the mural. Spanning 210 sq/m, the work also features a smaller depiction of Kieżun in non-combat dress taken during the occupation. Kieżun, who died on June 12th, 2021, had already approved the project before his death and had spoken of his happiness that such a commemoration was underway. Painted by Rafał Roskowiński, the zł. 46,200 cost of the mural was covered entirely by public donations.

In brief • News UNDER WRAPS

Subject to much outlandish speculation, a mysterious installation on Świętokrzyska has been revealed to be a monument honoring Poland’s contribution to the fall of the Berlin Wall. Currently covered in black fabric, the appearance of the object had originally left the public baffled and internet forums buzzing with suggestions. Delayed due to the pandemic, its unveiling will take place once German and local authorities can find a time convenient to both.

ECO GEM WOOS AGAIN

Racking up a slew of awards ever since its launch in 2020, the Kamień Educational Pavilion has again won plaudits, this time after it finished second in a competition organized by the Society of Polish Town Planners. Finishing as runner-up in the ‘revitalized green public space’ category, jurors praised its “high level of design sensitivity, subtle spatial narration and clear respect for nature.” Mimicking the look of a glacial boulder, the pavilion has previously been nominated for the Mies van der Rohe award. Operating as an ecological education center, features of the object include multi-functional meeting and exhibition spaces and surrounding nature trails.

HALL’S WELL

Praised for its “unique and sustainable design”, a Warsaw concert hall was awarded a gold medal at the International Design Awards (IDA) in February. Featuring a hall seating 305-people, a recording studio and 118 classrooms, the Nowa Miodowa venue saw a century-old Neo Gothic building renovated and linked up to a new facility via a glass atrium. Conceived by the Katowice-based Konior Studio, the project was credited by IDA for giving decaying buildings a new function. Commissioned by the Ministry of Culture and National Heritage, Gazeta Wyborcza went a step further declaring it to be “the most beautiful concert hall in the world”.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

BUILDING BRIDGES

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT BOTTOM LEFT FACEBOOK.COM/KONIORSTUDIO

Put into service nearly fifty-years ago, Trasa Łazienkowska is undergoing a monumental refit and rebuild. Set to cost zł. 90 million, and forecast to last until 2024, the renovations will give the overpass greater durability and higher load capacity. Disabled access will also be improved as will facilities for pedestrians and cyclists. Opened on 19th July, 1974, Poland’s first urban expressway was at the time hailed as an example of the country’s advancement. Visiting Poland to celebrate thirty years of the communist state, Soviet leader Leonid Brezhnev was the first to drive down it, and five years later it again starred on the news when Pope John Paul II rode down it in a delivery truck that had been hastily converted into a popemobile.

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ART

Going, Going… Gone! A masterpiece by Rubens goes up for auction in Warsaw this month…

arsaw’s soaring reputation on the international art market has taken another leap forward after it was announced that a work by Peter Paul Rubens would go under the hammer in March at the city’s DESA Unicum auction house. Set to take place on

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

March 17th, Portrait of a Lady is expected to fetch between zł. 17 and 24 million, a price that could see it become the most expensive painting ever sold in Poland. “The presentation of Portrait of a Lady is an event of huge importance for the art market,” said Juliusz Windorbski, President of DESA. “This work, nearly

400-years-old, has remained in private hands in recent decades, and has not been shown publicly since 1965. Portraits by the Flemish painter rarely appear in Europe, and a work of art with such huge historical, artistic and investment value has never been shown before in Poland. “This distinguished work, with a model provenance and confirmed authenticity, can reinforce Poland’s already strong position on the auction map of Europe,” he continued. “Last year alone, DESA Unicum exhibited works by such world renowned figures as Auguste Rodin and Chen Wenling.” Thought to have been painted by the Baroque master in his Antwerp studio between around 1620 and 1625, the work is customarily described as depicting Rubens’ first wife, Isabella Brant. Having swapped hands numerous times (previous owners included Sir Peter Lely, financier Robert Rowe and the mining magnate Jules Porgès), it later found itself in the collection of the Egyptian royal family. Taking up residency in Paris following the 1952 revolution, the painting was spotted by eagle-eyed Elle readers hanging in the apartment of Prince Mohammed Ali Ibrahim and Princess Hanzade when they were interviewed and photographed by the magazine in 1956. Last shown publicly in 1965, it has remained hidden from the public eye ever since. Auctioned only four times previously in 1682, 1848, 1872 and 1876, bidding is expected to attract interest from global collectors but can be viewed in the run-up to the event at DESA’s Warsaw HQ at Piękna 1A.

IMAGE THIS PAGE COURTESY OF DESA UNICUM, OPPOSITE PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

In brief

The Neverending Story Louder than ever before, calls have grown to rebuild Warsaw’s legendary rainbow!

n recent times, perhaps no other physical structure has come to symbolize the schisms in Polish society more than the rainbow that once straddled Pl. Zbawiciela. Now, speculation has mounted that the installation could again return as soon as next summer after a project was submitted to City Hall as part of this year’s Civic Budget. Originally designed to symbolize ‘tolerance, diversity and openness’, the first rainbow was created by artist Julita Wójcik and debuted in Brussels as part of celebrations marking Poland’s presidency of the EU. Later, it was transported to Warsaw and premiered in the capital on June 8th, 2012. Made from 22,300 artificial flowers, and peaking at nine-meters in height, it caused instant scandal on account of its LGBT connotations and location right outside a church. Apoplectic with fury, politician Stanisław

Pięta called the rainbow “a provocation” and “a disgusting gesture”, whilst Priest Tadeusz Rydzyk declared it “a symbol of deviancy”. Their sentiments struck a chord with others, and in all the rainbow was set alight on seven separate occasions, most infamously by rioting hooligans during the disturbances that marred Poland’s Independence Day celebrations in 2013. For all the political and social divisions that the rainbow highlighted, for most however it was simply a playful artistic gesture that injected a sense of color and fun into downtown Warsaw. It was no coincidence that its three years residence on Zbawiciela coincided with the area’s heyday – for a brief but memorable flash in history, no other place in Poland felt so alive. Nicknamed Pl. Hipstera thanks to its super-cool bars and flamboyant party people, the rainbow seemed to act as

the lightning rod that electrified the area and gave it extra soul. When it was finally dismantled in August of 2015, Zbawiciela seemed to lose its little special spark. Still, that was not the end of the enduring rainbow saga. In 2018 a Ben & Jerry’s campaign saw it return for Pride Weekend in the form of a water-light hologram. Then, last year, it was back again to serve as background for a film shoot. So far, however, campaigns for its permanent restoration have faltered, though this time around activists are more hopeful than ever before. Costing around zł. 250,000, the proposed new project will be constructed using non-flammable materials. As it stands, City Hall will evaluate all the projects submitted for consideration on May 4th before letting residents vote for the best ones to be implemented the following month. warsawinsider.pl

Architect’s Eye Few if any architectural studios have impacted Warsaw in the same way as WXCA. Known as much for their public projects as their private ones, this issue we talk to Marta Sękulska – Wrońska, architect and partner at WXCA, about the group’s work in Warsaw and beyond…

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The Polish Army Museum & The Museum of Polish History in the Citadel complex

PRESS MATERIALS

“We designed the entire assumption comprising a large site of over 24 ha in deeply historical tissue, at a place that over the course of history left its mark on Poles and remained inaccessible for over two centuries. This is the place where one of the most modern museums in Europe is being developed. It includes structures that exert a powerful impact on visitors through their form, colors, light, materials, and acoustics – timeless, unique and functional buildings. Through our projects, we are genuinely contributing to bringing about change in the meaning and significance of the Warsaw Citadel – for it to become a place where families can spend quality time together.”

WI: You’ve now become one of the best-known studios in Poland, but looking back at the WXCA story is there a project that you consider to be your ‘big break’? MSW: In 2008, just one year after our studio was founded, we entered an international competition for the conceptual design of the Airport Terminal in Świdnik. We managed to earn second place as a young team competing against established architectural practices. This gave wings to our creativity, actions and endeavors. We then took part in another large competition to design the Polish Army Museum in Warsaw, which we won. Through these projects, we made ourselves

known as a sensitive, proactive and enthusiastic team ready to tackle the challenges of highly complex projects. We will be soon celebrating the opening of the museum to visitors. How has the studio evolved over the years? The dream of designing exceptional, unique buildings and spaces with an important social mission has become a reality. Today, the scale of the studio is indeed changing but our strategic direction of designing complex private and public buildings and public spaces while respecting the existing context has remained unchanged. What ideas shape your architectural philosophy? In architecture, we are always seeking high-quality and beauty, understood inclusively. This constitutes a certain completeness for us that is composed of both aesthetic values and the subtlety of forms, as well as the structure’s functionality and its usefulness. Regardless of whether we are designing in an urban or natural context, we strive to capture and bring out the uniqueness of a given place, ensuring that the new facility will be consistent with the surroundings. warsawinsider.pl

Architecture (Opposite page top to bottom) What is the role of the architect in modern society? Architects are an important partner in the investment process. Engaged in mutual dialogue with investors, sharing our knowledge and experience, we are always looking for the best solutions to not only deliver yet another facility but also to ensure that it blends seamlessly into the emotional map of the inhabitants of a given city. What is the future of our cities, and more specifically, Warsaw? There is a future only when we are creating and forging a genuine community. The energy and emotions of the people inhabiting a given place is the only fuel that truly lasts. Creating quality spaces for people, be they housing or working areas, is key to securing the future of the city. There’s obviously a balance between vision and execution – how realistic is your vision for the future of Warsaw? What needs to change and happen? Some dreams need time – but it’s always worth dreaming. We would still be living in caves if it weren’t for many true visionaries over the course of time. We have set ourselves ambitious goals and are striving to find the means and ways to achieve them. We are not waiting for change but are proactive in our approach. Are there any architectural trends that you actively seek to avoid!? We avoid trends in general! We start each project with a blank page, looking to find the best solutions to a particular need. Quality is timeless. Is there a project you really wish had gone ahead? My wish for all the inhabitants of Warsaw is for the concept of bringing the city closer to the river to be brought to completion so that a plethora of recreational, meeting and creative workshop spaces can be designed and successfully executed, allowing residents to draw joy and satisfaction from them. This is how we viewed our winning competition vision of the Vistula Boulevard located between the Świętokrzystki and Poniatowski Bridges. Interpret this as you will, but what is the best advice / or the biggest lesson you’ve learned in your time in architecture? Good architecture is humancentric and it’s always worth convincing your client of such a premise. Positive opinions and user satisfaction are the best reward when it comes to spaces that have been created.

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The Poland Pavilion for EXPO 2020 Dubai “For architects, designing Poland’s showpiece at one of the world’s largest social, cultural, and economic events is the equivalent of an athlete competing and standing on the podium of the Olympic Games, hearing one’s national anthem being played. Together with the Swiss studio Bellprat Partner, the intention underpinning the design of the architecture of the building and the exhibition was to create a coherent, meaningful and immersive space, a multidimensional experience encouraging people to learn not only about the multifaceted nature of Poland but also to reflect on the human–nature interactions present therein.”

Five Corners Square

(in progress) “Recovered for the City of Warsaw, this kind of land constitutes open space and stands to become a peaceful enclave for people to enjoy in the center. Newly planted shade-giving trees, a fountain, bench and seating arrangements, and outdoor art installations will calm the emotional chart of pulsating downtown Warsaw.”

The Ulrich Gardens

(in progress) “We designed the revitalization of the nearly 150-year-old Ulrich Gardens comprising parkland and heritage-listed greenhouses. Within the project, we had the opportunity to restore its former glory and bring out the 19th-century innovative technological thought that was encapsulated therein, ensuring that all the historical features and values are preserved while responding to the needs of a contemporary person. We hope that they will become a much-loved green urban space.”

Mokotów Fields (Phase 1 in progress) “To design one of the big-hitting favorite recreational spaces of Varsovians is a great privilege for our studio. This park is a social and cultural phenomenon that has been shaped largely by a grassroots social process. Within the project, we have been keeping pace with the needs of all the park’s users be they people or animals, as well as with the vegetation and the strategic vision of seamlessly integrating the park with the city.”

VISUALIZATIONS COURTESY OF WXCA

48 Hours in Warsaw WALLS HAVE STORIES

First timer: to touch Warsaw’s grittier artistic side, one needs to visit the old streets of Praga. Here, many down-at-heel tenements that survived the war have been turned into giant canvases by some of the best street artists in Poland… and beyond. Old hand: a dormitory suburb it might be, but Ursynów now vies with Praga for its outbreak of ‘muralosis’. Often celebrating local heroes and events, these artworks are newer than those in Praga and reveal this southern area in a totally new light. Use the search function on our website to see exactly where you’ll find them!

THE FOOD SCENE

First timer: no city other than London can boast a higher headcount of food halls than Warsaw, and these have sent the city’s social scene in a completely new direction. Found in reclaimed historic properties, for more on these unique city assets check our Food Hall section in the pages beyond.

When GQ published their 48-hour guide to Warsaw at the start of the year, natives living here greeted it with a mix Old hand: mix and mingle with of enthusiasm and bemusement – wasn’t the locals at a food market. Set around a Tsarist era hall, it great to see our capital described as Hala Mirowska has the most “Europe’s most underrated city”? But heritage, though Forteca is the wasn’t it just a little bit baffling to then smarter option and one favored by the chefs and bloggers. see the author recommending a side trip to Auschwitz for those weekending DRINK IT UP in Warsaw. I mean, that’s not the most First timer: we’ve dedicated a chunk of this issue to Warsaw’s logical of schedules. Given all that, craft beer scene, though for one couldn’t help but feel that GQ had those looking for something misunderstood Warsaw. So, with that in more all-embracing then a mind, we bring you the essentials that downtown bar crawl around fashionable Poznańska and you REALLY can’t overlook – whether surrounds will leave them you’re a first-timer or old-timer or some- its enthralled. thing in between… 12

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

Old hand: fears that covid would kill off Warsaw’s nocturnal habits proved ill-founded and last years saw some brilliant launches. Even jaded old timers will find something new on our 2021 hot list: warsawinsider.pl/hot-list-2021

Skyfall

SHOP TILL YOU DROP

First timer: Mokotowska street is the center of Polish fashion with gorgeous boutiques housed in ground floor units of beautifully replenished tenements. Window shopping down here, you understand why Warsaw was once regarded as ‘the Paris of the East’. Old hand: use Sunday morning not for a lie-in but to get in on the action at Bazar Na Kole. A fascinating antiques market, rummage through old furnishings, militaria, chinaware and more.

LOCAL TASTES

First timer: there’s more to Polish food than lard and cabbage, sausages and dumplings. At Pyzy, Flaki Gorące you’ll be eating true Warsaw delicacies straight from the jar. Old hand: for those unimpressed by Polish food, a wave of restaurants have shown how the scene has modernized. In the brand new Nuta, one of the world’s top chefs, Andrea Camastra, has shown just how far you can go in reimagining the cuisine.

SEE THE LIGHTS

First timer: the Neon Museum has been called “the most instagrammable museum in the country”, and the heap of old commie signs found here are guaranteed to glow-up your social media and get your followers talking.

Hala Mirowska

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48 Hours in Warsaw Old hand: forget the museums, see Warsaw’s neons in real time! The oldest of the lot, a pre-war effort depicting a boy and a zebra, is found on the Wedel building, but you can't go far in the center without seeing both new and old examples of these beautiful signs – again, our website has a ton of suggestions.

EXPLORE

Mural in Ursynów

First timer: the UNESCO-listed Old Town is an obvious suggestion, but your tour need not just take-in the most recognized landmarks. At the Heritage Interpretation Center you’ll learn about the district’s destruction and rebuilding. Old hand: Warsaw’s transformation is most sharply illustrated by Wola which offers an intriguing mix of spanking new skyscrapers set against bullet-scarred buildings. Home to numerous bars and cafes, the contrast clashes will blow your mind.

LEARN THE FACTS

First timer: truly world class, POLIN chronicles the 1,000year history of Jews in Poland whilst the Rising Museum documents Warsaw’s defining tragedy. Both demand a visit. Old hand: for tangible traces of the past visit the forlorn Jewish Cemetery to weave among old tombstones left shattered by time, before heading to the center to scope out surviving traces of the war. The ravaged building at Waliców 14 is perhaps the city’s best-known ruin. Pyzy, Flaki Gorące

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

TAKE A BLAST TO THE PAST

First timer: the Museum of Life Under Communism is tiny but

offers a powerful and at times amusing sights into the everyday reality of living in the PRL. If you’ve got time, their city tours are also recommended and feature shots of vodka, humorous anecdotes, meetings with locals and bumpy van rides. Old hand: if you’ve seen and done it all, then get back to basics and head to the local legends like Paragraf, Bar Kawowy or Piotruś. Unchanged for decades (in terms of both design and patrons), the atmosphere in these foggy haunts is intoxicating. Fill up beforehand in one of the stinky, surviving milk bars that once served food to the masses.

HEAR THE SOUND OF WARSAW

First timer: Chopin is inescapable, and though the museum dedicated to him is memorable, a better way to see the city involves walking the city’s more scenic parts and soaking in the sites connected to the composer. To do so, see: en.chopin. warsawtour.pl/places Old hand: for the city’s more modern beat, check out legendary live music venues such as the highly alternative Pogłos. For something more soothing, trawl around the city’s vinyl stores and meet the characters that fill them: warsawinsider.pl/ buying-vinyl-cds-vhs

A BIRD’S EYE VIEW

First timer: Stalin’s gift to Poland, the Palace of Culture & Science, redefines the Gotham City architecture favored back then. Head to the top for glorious views of Warsaw, and after learn the secrets of the palace by taking a tour of its shadowy basements.

Old hand: for thunderingly terrifying views of the new CBD head to Skyfall, a glass box set 46-floors high that tilts over Warsaw (skyfallwarsaw.com). We’re expecting it to fully open to the public anytime soon.

GET TO THE RIVER

First timer: the boulevards running on the left-side teem with drinkers each summer, but even out of season they make for an energizing walk: while doing so, stop in at the Museum of Modern Art or the Copernicus Science Center before perusing the cafés and boutiques that dot the wider area. Old hand: Contrasted against the energy of the left bank, the right side of the river is Warsaw’s secret little garden: a wild mass of tangled vegetation and natural life. Of the city’s more enduring urban myths is the tale of a Japanese delegation asking the Mayor how much the city had spent creating the effect of an untamed riverbank.

Right side of the Wisła

“ ...the oldest neon of the lot, a pre-war effort depicting a boy and a zebra, is found on the Wedel building”

GO GREEN

First timer: The most celebrated of all of Poland’s parks, Łazienki is a throwback to the Imperial Age, one whose gorgeous gardens are today ruled by the strutting peacocks that have made it their home. Having peered at the Greco-Roman follies, head back to the center by passing the lavish embassy buildings lining Ujazdowski. Old hand: set in the shadow of the National Stadium, Skaryszewski Park is infilled with curiosities: a bolder saluting a downed RAF plane and a monument dedicated to 9/11. After, lose yourself in Saska Kepa, an affluent suburb known for its pre-war modernist architecture.

Jewish Cemetery

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Representing more than just a bar crawl, join us for a deeper look at one of Warsaw’s most underrated streets… Words by Alex Webber Photogrpahy by Kevin Demaria

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Atlas Tower

o many, Nowogrodzka has become synonymous with Warsaw’s rebel beer movement – flushed with atmospheric bars, it’s the heart of the capital’s craft scene with a reputation that carries well beyond the city’s borders. But there is more. A lot more. Stretching far further than most imagine, it’s a street steeped in sights, stores and stories seemingly saved from every chapter of Warsaw’s modern history. A microcosm of the capital, it is a place of energy, secrets, contrasts and contradictions…

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Tchorek plaque ul. Nowogrodzka 78

Dom Badouina

Church of St. Luigi Orione

HUMALUS mural by Gore

THE FAR END Signs of the demented, unhinged madness that ruled the 1990s are becoming fewer and farther in between, so for fans of this whacko period it’s heartening to learn that Nowogrodzka is not short of the epic architectural follies that physically defined these times. Across from the migraine colored Sobieski Hotel – itself a survivor of this era – begin at what is now known as the Atlas Tower. Often likened to a portable toilet, a shower tub or, even, a Red Bull can in the grip of a vice, this skyscraping oddity was the brainwave of Vahap Toy, a controversial Turkish businessman whose ideas for Poland included transforming the backwater town of Biała Podlaska into a Vegas-inspired resort complete with F1 track, an Olympic stadium and a Polish branch of the University of Berkeley. Completely at odds with its surroundings, the Atlas teeters awkwardly over its neighbors, and these include the Filtry waterworks opposite. Designed by English engineer William Heerlein Lindley, and completed in 1886, such was the level of craftsmanship that this treatment facility still works to this day. Historical wall tablets are not unusual on Nowogrodzka, and many relate directly to the war facing the water plant, for example, you’re going to

head past one marker noting the execution site of 67 Poles including many of the staff of the Municipal Health Institute. A mass of post-war concrete, it’s not a complete waste to explore the rat run of stagnant stairwells and corridors that lie between here and Jerozolimskie. Doing so, you’ll come across Humalus, a 30-meter mural depicting the silhouette of a half-naked man and numerous limbs twisting out from the windows. Painted in 2012 by Gore, it seeks to ask the question, “Who will the new man be?” This area was once home to a string of sad, low-budget brothels, but times have been kinder these last few years and that much is evidenced by the love and care that’s been afforded to nearby buildings such as Dom Badouina, known to some as the oldest orphanage in Poland. As the informative sign outside attests, it harbored a large number of Jewish children during WWII. Crossing the road and the Church of St. Luigi Orione provides a rare Neo Gothic flourish in a section of Nowogrodzka that merges almost amorphously into one. Walking past the uniform drabness the mind wanders until BAM, you come face-to-face with the epic flyover that slashes Nowogrodzka in half. warsawinsider.pl

Courtyard of Intraco II

THE TWIN TOWERS Skyscrapers in Warsaw were once a novelty, so seen from afar the Marriott and Chałubińskiego 8 stuck out on a largely bare horizon to present an uncanny resemblance to New York’s twin towers. Then known as Intraco II, the latter was built in 1978 and was immediately installed as the most modern office building in the country. Its western aesthetics were not lost on film producers and it was used to depict Heathrow’s terminal in the cult classic Miś. Neither was it the only appearance in made in this film, appearing also in a scene in which the movie’s protagonist attempts to bribe a cashier with a sausage in exchange for an plane ticket. As for the Marriott, those who studied our previous issue will already know all about it. At the risk of repeating ourselves, the story in brief is as follows: opened in 1989, its launch marked the end of a 12year construction process and an initial plan that had involved a Buck Rogers-style complex comprised of ice rinks, pools and skyscrapers linked by cable cars and escalators. An island of prosperity, it became home to “the Marriott Brigade”, a term coined to describe the flock of foreign consultants that descended on Warsaw when Communism fell. In fact, Helmut Kohl was staying here when news began filtering through that crowds had begun chipping away at the Berlin Wall. Famed for its 40th floor Presidential Suite, past users have numbered Pavarotti, Michael Jackson, Donald Trump and Barack Obama.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

Komuna Warszawa

ALL THE THINGS THAT COULD HAPPEN NEXT Easily overlooked during the day, come night walkers will come across a neon sign announcing, enigmatically, ‘All The Things That Could Happen Next’. Created in 2020 by British artist Tim Etchells of the theater group Forced Entertainment, it marks the spiritual entrance to Komuna Warszawa, an art collective based in an abandoned school. Known for its on-edge repertoire, activities over the last few months have included ‘a performative conference’ titled Scopes Driven by Porsche. Had you visited, you’d have witnessed all manner of nuttiness, not least a load of sports cars turned into artworks. Offering a busy program of events (see for yourself at: komuna.warszawa.pl), you’ll find examples of their socially conscious art hanging on the exterior wall facing the Marriott’s car park. warsawinsider.pl

Remembering the soldiers of Batalion Zaremba Piorun

ul. Nowogrodzka 40

HISTORICAL OVERLOAD

State Agricultural Bank

ul. Nowogrodzka 45

Art of a more patriotic nature can be found in the shabby car park plot on the other side of Emili Plater. Remembering the soldiers of Batalion Zaremba Piorun, the cartoonish murals give a hat tip to the troops that fought in this area during the Uprising – the scene of fierce fighting, the surrounding area was bitterly contested by the two sides with the Poles paying heavily in blood. At this point of your walk, history has a habit of thrusting itself in your face. Thinking of a coffee break? Then allow a timeout in the Radio Café to become an educational experience. Opened in 1992 by a former freelance reporter for Radio Free Europe (a Munich-based station that once delivered western news to those living behind the Iron Curtain), its walls are festooned with photos and mementos related to these times. Impossible as it is to fathom nowadays, there was a time when just listening to this frequency was enough to land you ten-years in the slammer. With your thirst slaked, the next point of interest comes via the State Agricultural Bank, a monumental building constructed in the 1920s in the St. Petersburg style favored by architect Marian Lalewicz. He would later perish during the war, executed during a street round-up conducted in the opening weeks of the Warsaw Uprising, but this building of his would survive albeit with several nicks and grazes – frustratingly, these historic scars have recently been cemented over in a misguided effort to mask the damage. Across the road, the history lesson continues at the Roma Theater, a 1930s building that formerly housed a chapel, cinema and entertainment hall. Also surviving the war with just superficial damage, its dimensions marked it out as an ideal political meeting spot whilst the rest of Warsaw found itself buried under rubble. As such, it was here that the First Congress of the Polish Workers’ Party was held after the war. Handed over to serve as the home of the Roma in 1994, it has emerged to become one of the most successful of all of Warsaw’s theaters. Architecturally, Nowogrodzka is particularly rich on this stretch with all manner of styles presented: the Roma Office Center is a tribute to the blockish style that was in vogue during the turn of the millennium; equally noticeable, the post office and telecommunication building at No. 45 can be viewed as a powerful example of pre-war modernism. Complete with a striking tower and stern Polish eagle, it was a German redoubt during the Uprising, and despite numerous efforts to capture it attacks by Poland’s Home Army were repeatedly repelled. warsawinsider.pl

THE EYESORE OF WARSAW You can try and shield your eyes, but there’s no missing the wrecked orange shell of the Cepelia pavilion. Finished in 1966 as part of a vast urbanization project called the Eastern Wall, the ambitious scheme presented an ultra-modern vision of Warsaw that included the Sezam department store, the Zodiak café, the Relax cinema, a trio of residential towers and the Rotunda. Then, at its bottom, was Cepelia, a light steel structure with a glazed façade and a groundbreaking design that gave the impression that the entire building was levitating. Glowing from afar, gushing critics compared it to “an urban lantern”. Housing the flagship store of the Cepelia (a folk art brand founded to “solidify the rural identity of socialist Poland”), it became one of the center’s most identifiable buildings. It still is, only now for different reasons. Ravaged in the 90s by garish hoardings and tacky embellishments, its aesthetic value found itself dramatically eroded during the years of banana republic economics. Currently rotting and home to a small group of vagrants, the building – now otherwise empty aside from its token ‘residents’ – has since become something of a cause célèbre after McDonald’s announced plans to revive it in their own inimitable way. Since stalling ever since failing to pass the approval of the Conservator of Monuments, these resuscitation plans remain on ice as things stand. In the meantime, this protected building continues to plunge further into neglect.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

Let’s Color mural by Swanski

SAY CHEERS WITH BEERS

Pre-war detail ul. Nowogrodzka 18a

Emerging on the other side of the underpass that cuts below Rondo Dmowskiego, your route takes you past the Novotel, a building first completed in the 70s to rank – at the time – as Poland’s second tallest building. Famously mobbed by hundreds of fans, ABBA stayed here at the peak of their fame. You can shortcut through the hotel, or you can continue outdoors, but whichever way route you take you’ll end up on the crossroads of Nowogrodzka and Parkingowa. Though hardly comparable to Times Square of the Travis Bickle era, come dusk there is unique atmosphere here as drunks and hustlers mix into one heady cocktail. Above them, added color is provided by a 20,000 sq/m mural that celebrates its tenth birthday this year. Titled Let’s Color, and executed by the renowned local artist Swanski, it was placed on one of Warsaw’s best examples of post-war brutalism. Tempting as it might be to stop for a vodka in the shot bar on ground level, the real fun lurks beyond in the duo of craft pubs that have made this street famous: Kufle i Kapsle and Jabeerwocky. But before artisan beer came artisan workshops – this stretch of Nowogrodzka was full of ‘em, though today only a handful survive such as the bespoke gentleman’s tailor Zaremba. Founded in 1896, and just completing a move to an address opposite, from 1956 the family-run firm operated at Nowogrodzka 15. Still holding a peerless reputation for their upmarket quality, the original mirror from this era also made the move when this store moved across the road. Lined with pre-war tenements in varying stages of repair, neither is there a shortage of historical stories and far-fetched tales. Where the latter, look no further than the battered building at No. 14. Fond of cheerful morning pranks and other such amusements, Maria Wiśniowska has been haunting this address since 1890. Fascinated by death, partial to opium and carrying a reputation as a femme fatale, this glamorous actress had her life cut short when she was shot through the heart by a besotted toy boy lover. Equally intriguing, stop too at Namaste: as the first ‘affordable’ Indian restaurant in town, they revolutionized the city’s ethnic scene when they opened in 2006 (back then, it was literally the size of a shoe box), and to this day it remains one of the better eateries in its genre. But there is also a darker history here as indicated by the commemorative tablet on the wall outside. Home to a Nazi brothel and cafe, on October 23rd, 1943, a group of People’s Guard resistance fighters launched an attack on the premises that resulted in the deaths of 18 SS and Gestapo officers. warsawinsider.pl

Exploring Nowogrodzka

THE GRAND FINALE Crossing Krucza, one first passes a Socialist Realist edifice that formed part of a “ministerial axis” that was constructed in the 1950s; hidden through an unmarked door at the bottom of a back alley, it’s here you’ll find Weles, one of the most luxurious cocktail bars in town. More easier to spot, however, is the Australian Embassy inside Nautilus, a sleek silver office block designed by the acclaimed Stefan Kuryłowicz towards the end of the 90s. Notable for its inwardly sloping façade and stunning balcony feature, it can be cited as living proof that not every architect went nuts during those early years of capitalism. Prowling past plaques remembering noble wartime deeds (including the spot at which a 17-year-old scout died during the Uprising), one can conclude either with a well-deserved pint in Drugie Dno, or by blowing a heap of cash in the Vitkac department store. If doing the former, and even if not, then it’s worth considering the building’s history. Completed just prior to WWI, the tenements at No. 4 and 6 were the epitome of luxury and equipped with a crystal elevator, dumb waiter technology and vast apartments popular with artists such as the sculptor Stanisław Jagmin and the medical elite – for instance, Dr. Jerzy Dąbrowski, a dermatologist and world-recognized angler. During the war, it assumed a hero’s role, housing a secret armory supplying the Polish underground and, when the Uprising broke out, a field hospital. But if it’s retail therapy you seek (you’ll certainly need another form of therapy after seeing the prices), then conclude your tour of Nowogrodzka at Vitkac, a luxury store housing branches of Louis Vuitton and Gucci. Squeezed just 12-meters away from the flats opposite, this has been deemed one of Kuryłowicz’s less successful projects, not least by the residents that live directly next door. Described by some as “a hideous black shack” and by others as “a tomb”, many lament that it took the place of Chemia, a PRL pavilion once hailed as one of the best examples of the modernist Polish architectural style. Today, Chemia’s substitute displays style of a different kind selling as it does such trifles as Gucci handbags for zł. 57,000 (yes, you read that correctly).

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

warsawinsider.pl

Interview

CALL HIM MR. HOPPY!

AS THE WARSAW BEER FESTIVAL MAKES ITS RETURN, ORGANIZER AND Warsaw Beer Festival When March 24th to March 26th Where Legia Stadium Web warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

CO-FOUNDER PAWEŁ LESZCZYŃSKI REVEALS WHAT’S IN STORE…

Warsaw Insider: What’s new this time? Paweł Leszczyński: The festival is already famous for showcasing the best beers in Poland, but we understand that some people stand to be bored by the prospect of trying the 100 beers that are due to premier and the 700 others that will be available. That’s why we’ve prepared something a little different this year. Are you sitting down? This time, we’ve got a sauna zone with a fireplace and music! You can also try a range of hot non-alcoholic drinks in the herbal room – our new chillout zone. Anything more? We’re mixing tradition with new wave so this time around we’ve invited guest breweries from Belgium and Germany, two of which are operated by monks and over 150-years-old. With the support of the US Embassy, we’ve also prepared the first edition of The Sensory Olympics which will challenge your sense of taste.

Is there one beer that stands out over the course of the years? I’m more of a people person than a beer geek, but at every festival there are at least five beers that make me go wow! And that’s not an easy thing seeing that I’ve tried a thing or two already.

“ That’s why we’ve prepared something a little different this year. This time, we’ve got a sauna zone with a fireplace and music!”

From Poland, what breweries can’t you wait to welcome? Janek from the Monsters Brewery has launched a barrel-aged beer project called Sicky Boy Brewing and I’m also certain that PINTA Barrel Brewing are also going to offer something great. For me though, the most important ones are the smaller ones as well as the ones in the ‘newbie’ zone. Their beers are rarely available in the shops so this is one of the few opportunities to try them. I’m also keeping my fingers crossed and expecting some crispy cask beers from Franconia. PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PAWEŁ LESZCZYŃSKI

if the person ahead of them is talking to the brewer. If there’s a queue, use the opportunity to talk to the people around you and make some new friends! Fortunately, I haven’t seen any annoying behavior at the festival for a long time!

What’s on trend? Low and non-alcoholic beers are getting better and better and there’ll be many of those. The festival also usually sees one new IPA style and this time that will be Cold IPA – lager topped with American hops. We’re also seeing more breweries that have mastered handling Polish hops and thanks to their experience these beers are getting to be super tasty! What’s the most annoying thing people do at beer festivals! I hate it when people treat it too seriously – the type that expect to be served immediately and get annoyed

What do you get up to during the festival – do you have a set routine? I don’t make plans and I certainly don’t have any ‘must try’ lists of beer in my head. The only thing I really try to avoid is getting hungry or dehydrated. I love talking with people and listening to their beer suggestions or just hanging out in small groups and trading opinions. For me, the festival is a social thing – it’s a shame I have to maintain some semblance of control!

Who’s your dream guest? I’d love to have 3 Fonteinen as they’re my favorite lambic brewery. I’m hopeful they’ll join us in the autumn. Likewise, I’ve got a few brewing friends in the US who are legendary and I’d love to see them here. Beyond? Too many people have never tried a good beer or seen the crazy diversity of the craft beer market. I’d love to change that and get them to visit. You’ve got a lost and found section – what are the kind of things do people lose? Clothes, IDs, documents, key, cards, phones are the usual things we see handed in, but we’ve also had backpacks with company laptops. Once we found a wallet with over a zł. 1,000 inside it. We took it to the police station but never received a thank you so I can only hope it found its owner… Finally, what’s your hangover cure? Sobriety… warsawinsider.pl

Craft Beer Bar Roundup

Festival? What Festival?

SOMETHING CLASSY FOR NEIGHBORHOOD VIBE Cześć

ul. Grzybowska 2

It’s hard to believe now, but Cześć started life as a café. What happened to that? Well, the locals preferred their beer. Now looking comfortably rugged and worn-in after nearly nine years of service, this box of a room was arguably the first ‘quali-tap’ in Warsaw. Quali-tap? Yeah, by that we mean small, little places with six or seven beers on the go. The rotation of new finds is balanced well with traditional faves from the likes of Artezan and Pinta.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

Browar Warszawski

ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

When it comes to beer Browar Warszawski favor tradition over craziness – there’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Feeling Feeling reassuringly cosmopolitan, this swanky multi-floor emporium targets itself at a higher-end clientele than others, a point reflected by both its prices and design. There’s a strong industrial aesthetic, but this is softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats and tiny antique details. It’s a beauty!

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD LEFT TO RIGHT, ED WIGHT, KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL, ED WIGHT

As everyone knows, the best time to visit Warsaw’s craft beer pubs is when all the other beer geeks head to the city’s beer festival. But with over 40 craft bars to choose from, which are the ones that are worth the look?

FOR NORTHERN SOUL Craft Beer Muranów ul. Andersa 23

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it has an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery – it feels like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers.

FOR THE NEW GENERATION Hopito

ul. Żurawia 32/34

Appealing to a far younger, more party-oriented crowd than the area’s other craft joints, find a sloshed audience weaving around a neon lit room decorated with black and white doodles by some of Poland’s biggest street artists. The beer offer is highly commendable, and even includes a beer slushy machine! Specializing in the beers of Hopito (you’d never have guessed), the choice is unflinchingly fun and boosted by great pizzas from a Neapolitan wood-fired oven.

NOT JUST FOR TOURISTS Same Krafty

ul. Nowomiejska 10

Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty are credited with rescuing Old Town’s visitors from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures visitors looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. And if the queue is too long? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating.

THE ONE YOU CAN’T MISS! Kufle i Kapsle

ul. Nowogrodzka 25

THE POLISH FLAGSHIP Pinta

ul. Chmielna 7/9

Taking the space once occupied by the ill-fated Mikkeller Bar, Pinta bears many of the hallmarks of the previous tenant: a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and chunks of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant. Pinta, if you don’t know, are considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft beer scene, and this bar gives their portfolio the attention it deserves.

Opened during Poland’s initial wave of Kufle i Kapsle craft pubs, this first generation pub has Żoliborz nine-years of history behind it, and along with it that beautiful smell of good times and spillage. Respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage, the interiors feature a warming back room with low-slung armchairs, but the real action is out front where note-taking nerds and international pissheads join as one to clamor around a bar serving some of the best beer in Poland. For the real radical choices though, look down into the fridge. Excellent in all respects, they’ve also got two suburban bastions in Żoliborz and Powiśle. warsawinsider.pl

Craft Beer Bar Roundup

10 Jabeerwocky

ul. Nowogrodzka 12

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer.

TO FEEL LIKE A LOCAL

Goraczka Zlota ul. Wilcza 29

Get down with the regulars at Gorączka Złota, a steamy pub with a rowdy atmosphere. Touting the dimensions of a cabin boy’s quarters, this pungent, pokey den is one of the oldest bars in town. Despite carrying many epic beers from Poland’s rebel brewers, there’s nothing faddish about GZ and it’s this sense of normalcy that lends it its enduring appeal. With just five taps, this place is about quality not quantity.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

Raj Piwosza

ul. Bora-Komorowskiego 56A

Raj Piwosza started out as craft store – but such was the demand they went the next step and launched a bar next door with a similarly exhaustive selection of drinkies. Set in a newish residential development on the frontline of Grochów, Gocław, Saska Kępa, their 18 taps have glued the neighborhood together with a catch-all offer that ranges from bog standard (Guinness, Belgian wheats, Czech pils) to beautifully bewildering.

FOR THE ATMOSPHERE Hoppiness

ul. Chmielma 27/31

The compact, box-like dimensions of Hoppiness mean that it doesn’t take much of a crowd to generate a babbly atmosphere full of laughs and cackles. There’s not much on the design front, but such is the buzz details become lost in the ensuing blur of random conversation and clinking glasses. Tap-wise, there’s twelve to choose from.

THE MEGA TAP! Brewski

ul. Żurawia 32/34

With over 50 taps to choose from, and even more beers in the fridge(s), the choice at Brewski can really overwhelm – our tip, scope out the offer before turning up by looking at the ontap app. Once the home of the scuzzy, all-hours Piw Paw, Brewski have smartened up the interior (though not the toilet) to add a sense of class with an array of Chesterfield sofas.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY ED WIGHT EXEPT TOP LEFT BY KEVIN DEMARIA

THE LEGEND

AN EASTERN STAR

FOR A NIGHT TO REMEMBER

TO START A PUB CRAWL

Beer Station Centrum ul. Lwowska 17

Proudly run by Belarussian exiles (that’s a pre-Lukashenko flag behind the bar), traipse down a plunging set of stairs to reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness. For booze, there’s twelve beers on tap and these include some excellent craft swigs along with more standard drinks. The choice is not revolutionary, but this place is loved by all those who like a wild night – the weekends do get messy!

THE ORIGINAL Cuda Na Kiju

ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

It all began here! Opened in 2013, find Warsaw’s first legitimate tap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden in the mega structure that once housed the Communist Party headquarters. Notable for its glass walls, sweeping spiral stairwell and pinball machines, 15 taps keep the guests amused. Though less experimental than many of Warsaw’s tap bars, Cuda is well-loved by all. And we mean all – in sunnier months, the front terrace and inner courtyard pack out with hundreds of drinkers.

Drugie Dno

ul. Nowogrodzka 4

The Double D’s positioning at the head of Nowogrodzka makes it the ideal spot to kick-off a pub crawl. Evoking the look of a disused power station, it’s a place of rugged brickwork, steel girders, vintage voltage meters and, get this, toilets disguised as elevator shafts. Set over three floors, the 14 craft taps are largely committed to the wild tastes of modern Poland. If you like what you see, they’ve got another outpost in Ochota. warsawinsider.pl

Craft Beer 25 breweries

25 Breweries That ROCKED Poland!

Over fifty Polish craft breweries will be hawking their goodies at the Warsaw Beer Festival, and though it’ll be largely impossible to go wrong, we’ve picked out a more palatable 25 that you simply can’t afford to miss for one reason or other…

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

AleBrowar Debuting 2012 Ale Browar’s Rowing Jack, Lady Blanche and Black Hope have become something of a holy trinity of Polish brewing. “You may consider us to be Polish craft dinosaurs, but people’s enthusiasm for our beers has not faded for a moment,” they say. “Proof can be had with our experimental New Wave Gose series, which shows we’re not afraid of approaching the classics in a new way and that we can still, after so many years, have fun with brewing.”

LOGOS AND PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF WARSAW BEER FESTIVAL

Artezan Everybody knows Artezan, right? Born in the early days of the piwo-lution, their Pacific became pretty much the defining pale ale of Poland’s craft movement – a title it still holds. Based just west of Warsaw, they’re one of the undisputed top dogs and credited with a range of other legendary beers: for instance, their Mera IPA and their seasonal Christmas stout by the name of Too Young To Be Herod. Simply put, they just never get it wrong. Brokreacja The highest compliment we can pay to Brokreacja is that their bar, the Bro Pub, is our first portof-call whenever we stray south down to Kraków. The Savage 03 (blackcurrant wild ale) is our current swig of choice, but this lot should also be commended for their classics. In that regard, look no further than The Teacher, a crisp Bohemian Pilsner that will appeal to both craft geeks and the normal Joe off the street. Browar Monsters Breweries talk about creating unforgettable beers, but at

Palatum

Monsters they really walk the walk. Packed with crazily vibrant tastes, this lot have forged a name for juicy IPAs, fruity sours, wild ales and barrel-aged beers that will send you on a rollercoaster. The Bomboniera 3 is an example of their invention: an imperial dark pastry sour featuring big bangs of peanut butter, cherries and chocolate. Browar Podgórz There was a time when the Insider drank nothing but Space Sheep, a classic APA that provides ample proof that sometimes it’s the more normal beers that are the best. You start at one and then finish when you’re falling down. Lacking the outright insanity of many brewers, think of this straight man as a voice of reason – and rarely do these common sense beers fall below a nine-out-of-ten. Featuring the light tingle of habaneros, the RIS Czekoladowe Dolina is a chocolate imperial stout that departs from the norm and deserves admiration.

Browar Warszawski Heavily slanted towards classic styles, the temptation to go for shock value is avoided, with head brewer Dawid Bąk instead preferring to seek quality and consistency – in this, the house IPA is the perfect example of a sensible pint that’s been interpreted with respect. Paying heed to Poland’s beery history, find also traditional offerings like the super-smoky Grodziskie or the thick, heavy Porter. Cztery Ściany With a home base in Trzebnica, finding this brewery’s beer present in Warsaw isn’t always a given so their appearance at the bi-annual beer orgy is indeed welcome. These are beautiful beers that they produce, many of which follow sensible lines and don’t do anything stupid – let’s face it, that in itself can be something in a relief in a sector dominated by overgrown fiveyear-olds. The fruit beers are lovable, and include a belting mango double IPA. warsawinsider.pl

tence, but it’s their experimental line that really fires the imagination. A case in point is the Grizzly, a hazelnut and Brazilian coffee imperial pastry stout. It’s as wild as the can design! Hopium It seems like a million years back, but in 2015 this crew snagged the Best Debut Brewery award at our Best of Warsaw gala. They’ve gone from strength-to-strength and become something of a failsafe with a portfolio that includes wittily named drinks such as Julia Hopperts and Vincent Man Gogh.

Stu Mostów

Deer Bear Founded in 2015, Deer Bear are another brewery that have gathered momentum in lately. Placing ‘drinkability’ first and foremost, recent-ish forays have seen the adoption of a highly experimental approach reflected in endeavors such as the Bistro V2, a coconut and peanut butter smooth chocolate cookie stout. Being from Toruń, they’ve also nailed down a brilliant ginger beer featuring hints of spice and baked apple. Yes please! Dziki Wschód Welcome to the Wild East! The Insider loves Lublin, and no trip is complete without first getting entangled into all kinds of trouble at Dziki Wschód’s pub – what a crazy place it is. The beers are a joy, and run from fruity heroes that have trended the last couple of years (check off the rhubarb sour) to excellent stouts. Funky Fluid If the craft beer sector has been

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

molded by far out and largely lunatic inspirations, then few breweries have done as much to stand out from the crowd as the lads at Funky Fluid: hellbent on resetting boundaries, notable escapades have involved such brilliance as Raspberry & Yuzu Gelato Pastry Sour; Peanut Butter Breakfast Stout; and imperial stouts with tobacco and black lava salt. Yep, it sure ain’t a pint of Żywiec.

Inne Beczki It can be argued that no brewery has done more to take craft beer to the mainstream market than Inne Beczki – more often than not, if a restaurant or bar is looking to present craft for the first time to their patrons, it’ll be Inne Beczki that are given the honors. Providing perfect entry level beers for the craft novice, their Zissou APA and Jungle IPA are nothing if not a reliable introduction to Poland’s beer scene.

Harpagan Loved by many, this brewery describe the Harpagan drinker as “a person full of energy and positive global attitudes surrounded by a delicate aura of madness.” Double dry hopped beers have become a signature of theirs but our big points go to their mango lassi pale ale, a.k.a. Pramakak’s Ecstasy.

Kingpin Founded in 2014, which kind of makes them geriatric in Polish craft terms. But there is nothing old world about their beers, a point born out by the stack of awards they seem to claim with each year. Rocknrolla, an APA with orange peel and lemon verbena, is a mainstay, but it is their Turb Geezer, a double espresso stout with a peaty bourbon touch, that is their legend.

Hopito For maximum shock value tastes, look no further than Hopito. They brew the classics with uncompromising compe-

Magic Road Born last year, this baby has already grown to be big, loud and playful. If you’re a beer dork, this lot have been impossible to

ignore. Beautiful branding aside (you want to eat their cans they look so delicious), the flavor combinations are a joy to behold: hazelnut & coconut stout; strawberry & lime Berliner weisse; or caramel and cookie chocolate imperial pastry stout. “On this magic road nothing is impossible,” they say, and we’re inclined to agree. PINTA The original revolutionaries, it was PINTA’s Atak Chmielu that broke the damn by becoming the country’s first craft beer back in 2011 – the revolution was born! Previously operating as a contract brewery, in recent years their foothold on the Polish market has been strengthened by the opening of their own bricks-and-mortar brewery (2019) and the launch of their pub in Wrocław (2018) and, last year, Warsaw. Credited with producing 200 beers brewed in 60 or so styles they’re rightly regarded as the Grand Dame of Polish brewing. Maltgarden There’s a lot here for the millennial and sweet-toothed veteran, and these include pastry beers that will knock your socks off. Really? Yes. For instance, Flight Attendants Uniform, a superb drop featuring pink guava, mango and coconut. Or how about Let’s Make This, a beer thrillingly described as a banana and passionfruit cream cheesecake double-fruited pudding sour. There is normality amid their offer, but these guys excel when they really unleash the full force of their creativity. Nepomucen Brewing their beers in a 100-year-old former bakery, Nepomucen have a lot to

answer for – we blame them for the worst hangover of 2021, a vile experience resulting from a biblical lockdown piss-up in a secret Leszno pub! Next time, we’ll be sticking to the non-alcoholic options at which they’ve traditionally excelled at. Palatum Having been gifted a zł. 200 brewing kit for his birthday by his dad and brother thirteen years back, it didn’t take long for cosmetics analyst Łukasz Kojro to twig that the stuff he was making was better than the mass-produced beers available in the shops. Soon, other people noticed that as well with the end result being the eventual birth of Palatum in 2016. After years in the wings, Warsaw finally had a bona fide craft brewery it could call its own. Of their more recent triumphs, we can endorse the Fruity Frank (mango & passionfruit pastry sour) and the Smokehead (smoked porter). Piwne Podziemie Slightly creepy but engaging fantasy world branding brings Podziemie initial attention, but it’s the beer that keeps drinkers captivated. A legend on Poland’s craft scene, their reputation rests on their outstanding reimagining of classic lines. Piwoteka This Łódź-born outfit claims to seek to blur the lines between beer styles, people and breweries. Certainly, you’ll have blurred vision after banging back their Episode 11, an 8.9% collaboration brewed with their buddies at Nepomucen. Marketed as a double dry hopped triple New England IPA, it’s a good benchmark of their quality.

Stu Mostów Wrocław-based, this brewery’s name doesn’t just reflect the city’s preoccupation with bridges, but also the brand’s wider philosophy. “We wanted to brew beer,” says co-owner Grzegorz, “that would build the most beautiful of bridges – between people, cities and countries, and between past, present and future.” This they’ve done by unleashing many modernized classics as well as a huge range of contemporary innovative beers. In our eyes, no-one in the country is more refined or pioneering as this lot! Trzech Kumpli This Tarnów brewery has long been associated with quality and offer a good balance between classic brews and those born from the new wave. Of their biggies, the Misty has grown to become one of their biggest selling IPAs. Pan IPAni meanwhile is a wheat IPA crossover that demands to be ordered whenever it’s on tap. Zakładowy Zakładowy’s flagship pub in Lublin is up there with our favorite drinking spots in Poland; set inside an awesome cultural center featuring skywalks and galleries, it’s an effortlessly cool spot with a spartan, Scandi style and a maverick choice of punk rebel beers. Oh yes, the beer. They’ve created 150 plus in their six years of ops, and recent winners include February’s Sokowirówka, a juicy sour packed with raspberries and blueberries. Experimental as they are, they don’t play around for the sake of it – this is beer of real world class merit. warsawinsider.pl

MOYA MATCHA JAPANESE GREEN TEA

ul. Oleandrów 6, moyamatcha.com / fb.com/moyamatchaoleandrow

Eat! GOING GREEN Veganda gets the

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Insider’s green light…

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Veganda Pl. Zbawiciela 5, fb.com/vegandabar

INSIDE Surely, they could have done a little more? Looking bare and undressed in design, décor details are limited to original PRL era floor tiles, a wall of spiky cacti, and the kind of chairs you’ll remember from high school. Illuminated by hanging steel spotlights, the naked nature of the place is emphasized by an exposed wall unit filled with glasses and refrigerators – basically, all the stuff that’s usually hidden behind a counter. But does it actually need any extra bells and whistles? Maybe not. Giant windows afford commanding views of Zbawiciela’s passing daily intrigues, whilst Veganda’s customers provide added visual texture.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BACKDROP Looking at it from above, it’s easy to divide Zbawiciela into six segments: you’ve got the slice that houses the church; the vibey bit with Plan B and Charlotte; the office block; the café curve; and the bit no-one hangs around on. Finally, there’s the portion with Veganda. Being kind, it’s the grubbiest of the lot with its braindead graffiti tags and then the grotty remains of the abandoned Corso bar. Sunlight makes it better, but on a grey and dismal day you might wonder why you’ve bothered. Instead, visit in the evening when a string of outdoor lights and Veganda’s green neon add a much-needed element of beckoning warmth.

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this is more than just a place that’ll restore and replenish, it’s a place that tastes good at other times as well... ORDER Veganda’s menu gives comfort food a welcome plant-based reassessment. For that alone, it’s no surprise to learn that many of Warsaw’s younger vegans now use it as their hangover solution. Saying you should as well though would be to detract from the quality – this is more than just a place that’ll restore and replenish, it’s a place that tastes good at other times as well. The fun fries merit their description and come with a garlic glaze and buried under a mass of sriracha mayo, pickled red onion, cashew parmesan and a hint of kaffir. Moving to Hawaii, the poke bowl is a well-assembled dish with ponzu sauce and chipotle mayo streaked across rice, edamame, seagrass, sesame, nori and fukujinzuke. And a shout, too, to the quesadilla. Though missing the companionship of a vigorous salsa, it still scores well for gooey goodness born from mixing white beans, spinach, pickled onion, veggie cheese and baked sweet potatoes with a dose of chili oil. In an area where the vegan competition is cutthroat, Veganda do a good job on the kind of dishes you actually want to order. Yep, a good job indeed.

AND NOW FOR SOMETHING COMPLETELY DIFFERENT

Established as one of country’s most recognizable chefs, Aleksander Baron has returned to action… and it’s not Polish food he’s cooking, but German! BARON: A REINTRODUCTION From kitchen rebel to national treasure, the last ten years or so have seen Aleksander Baron grow to become one of the dominant figures on Warsaw’s culinary landscape – actually, make that Poland’s. Making his name for big, brawny tastes at Solec 44, it was here that he first demonstrated the depths of his ability – often startling, but usually delicious, these warsawinsider.pl

Review were menus that got the press talking and the people flooding through the gate. Later, The Baron became The King… the King of Fermentation, and his passion for forgotten Polski ingredients and lost techniques found themselves given an even higher profile at the short-lived Zoni. Snatched from the rough-andraw confines of Solec, we saw a more finessed approach emerge, one that amply demonstrated the versatility of this chef. More recently, projects like Ogień and Baron The Family saw a return to basics with the onus placed on concepts of fire, meat and feasting. And that brings us to the now. Often presented in the foodie press and blogs as a shock value specialist, perhaps the biggest shock of all is that Baron’s latest posting has seen the chef develop a menu that actually reads very sensibly. If there is a surprise, it is thus. Having long been seen as an ambassador for Polish gastronomy, it’s now the food of Germany that falls under his watch. IF THAT’S BARON, WHO’S FRANK!? First things first, it’s important to know that the name refers not to the owner, but Franconia, a region of Germany falling largely within Bavaria. Originally opened two-and-a-bit years ago, this venue is a tribute to all that is good that comes from there – and in particular, that means wine. There’s 116 labels in all here, all of which are sourced from the wineries of Franconia. Home to a one-thousand

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year-old wine culture, it’s a region that’s been called “Germany’s fairy tale wine country”, and for rather good reason. Dotted with scenic mediaeval towns and rolling orchards, Franconia is one of Germany’s better-kept secrets. Largely turning its shoulder on Riesling, instead its sip of choice is Silvaner, a palate-pleasing white traditionally kept in a bulb-shaped Bocksbeutel. Though Silvaner dominates, it’s incorrect to think of Frank

as a one-dimensional character and the wine selection here forks down paths that are sometimes familiar, and other times completely unexpected. “I’ve always been a wine person, but many of these wines here came as a complete surprise to me,” says Baron. “For instance, the reds here were a completely new discovery. This time last year I’d never heard of them, so as a chef it was a really exciting challenge to pair my food with them.”

Frank ul. Grzybowska 43A, fb.com/enjoyfrankcom

as his take on mac & cheese. But it is more than that – it’s a warming heap of goodness that sends a glow through the soul. Also present, there is the Flammkuchen; thin and crispy, it’s a dish that often trades under the moniker of ‘German pizza’. The real hits though, these are Baron’s croquettes, their fillings varying from blood sausage to quark and leek. And then, the sausages (zł. 22), cooked on low-heat in white wine, vinegar and spices – truly, it’s a bread-dipper’s dream.

THE TASTY BITS With Baron installed as the executive chef, you’d be right to suspect that this is a venue with ambitions to position itself highly on Warsaw’s gastro map. Premiering at the start of February, his debut menu has reimagined German food in a more bite-sized form. “After I got to know the wines I built the menu in the space of two-hours,” says Baron. “Straight away I knew that I

wanted to present the food in the style of tapas so that friends could share and enjoy it over a bottle of wine.” Seeking to put his own twist on the tastes of Germany, it’s a menu that’s fun and creative but never truly crazy – choosing from it does not feel like a game of Dare, but there is an element of the unknown. “We’re happy to buy cars or beer from the Germans,” says Baron, “but I don’t think Poles have ever got to really know the deeper side of German culture – certainly not their food.” Often merging top-quality Polish ingredients with German techniques (“I import only when I really have to,” explains Baron), the results are to be praised: there’s a perfectly crusted schnitzel (zł. 18) served with two kinds of butter – anchovy and burnt butter with sauerkraut and caraway seeds; tartare with Jägermeister jelly (zł. 45); and a bacon and Bavarian cheese Spätzle (zł. 24) that Baron modestly describes

AND THE PLACE… Found down one of those slick, urban passages created as a result of New Wola’s construction, from the outside Frank can look a little intimidating. Decorated with gleaming golds and rich, dark shades of forest green, it’s a place you imagine fills with women wearing corpo-bitch perfume and guys weighed down by Alpha Male watches. Should I really have worn trainers? Lined with bottles, each carefully posed like a glinting jewel, the impression is of being somewhere unflinchingly high-end. For the casual passerby it may seem too much. But is it really? That debate ceases after the first glass of wine for that’s all it takes to feel at home. Adjusting to the shine and gloss, one sees Frank for what he is: a place of good mood and food. Enjoying it all is easy and so too is returning. As the wider area fills with cookie cutter chain concepts, Frank has a personality all of his own – and a quite special one at that. warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings adriatic MUNJA

Positioned in the heart of Warsaw’s flourishing new business quarter, both locations have been styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings: floor-to-ceiling windows lead into slick interiors that feel high on gloss and polish. But there is warmth as well with light woods and tan leather the dominant colors. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adriatic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames – for our chosen highlight, order the lamb cevapi or Dinarko mussels. ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60 (Browary Warszawskie)

author’s cuisine ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul. Mokotowska 48

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage of

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the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

BROWAR WARSZAWSKI

Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique details. This place is beautiful. But while most visit for the beer, the food is a winner as well. Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, not to mention the best fish’n’chips we’ve had outside of England. ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

DYLETANCI

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

KLONN

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul.

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RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant

Eat! listings essence of paprika. It’s exceptional. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

ROZBRAT 20

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20

chinese PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-blad-

ed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly).

comfort food

such as a swirly rainbow-colored unicorn mane, these are elegant creations filled with cream that’s so light you suspect it might float away. Looking dashing in its shades of pastel pink and gold trim, the place looks the part as well. ul. Kurcza

KUR & WINO

BOZZO

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Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz, as does a terrace crowded with crates and palms. ul. Andersa 21

POGROMCY MEATÓW

Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

desserts AM’OR EKLERY I WINO

You want to covet the eclairs from each possible angle, recording the results on your phone before sending the pics out to all of your contacts. Featuring embellishments

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As Poland’s first store specializing solely in ice cream and eclairs Bozzo have gained a devoted following in next to no time. Opened after ten-months of product testing, the results have reaped dividends with the French-style eclairs earning rave reviews. The work of pastry chef Adrian Edward Monik, the raspberry éclair is our hands-down winner.

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DOMO BAKE

Situated on the top floor of the Arkady complex that sits under Poniatowski Bridge, Domo Bake is open from Friday through Sunday with the day’s offerings sitting outside the frosted glass façade that conceals Domo Bake’s rented space. Run by Dominika ‘Sugar Queen’ Małysiak, notable products include poppyseed bagels, cinnamon rolls with caramel and dustings of chopped walnut and red velvet pops. The place is a legend! Solec 81B (unit 62A, Centrum Handlowe Arkada)

KUKUŁKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This is arguably Warsaw’s most adored dessert stop, and though cream puffs are the specialty, they know a thing or two about eclairs as well. Using seasonal ingredients, recent winners have included a barnstorming blueberry concoction.

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MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts

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Eat! listings with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62

MOD DONUTS

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27

SŁODKI BEZ

Cake: good. Sugar: bad. We all know that. But what you might not know of is the existence of Słodki Bez, a small little store specializing in sugar-free desserts. And it’s not just sugar they’ve dispensed of altogether, but also white flour, gluten, lactose and all the other synthetic nasties that we’re meant to dislike. Using natural substitutes, find a rich array of cakes and sweets such as vegan banoffee pie, chocolate nut cake, chickpea brownies, macarons, tarts and pralines. ul. Hoża 54, slodkibez.pl

food halls & hubs BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Vying for the title of the year’s most exciting opening, find Browary in a revamped 19th century brewery once operated by Haberbusch and

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Schiele. Along with the sensitive retention and refit of original properties and elements such as the Villa Schiele, the Browary area has blossomed anew with features such as the vaulted brick cellars turned over to house a food hall. Awash with food and drink options that include, among others, a sports bar and restaurant owned by Robert Lewandowski, as well as a three-floor flagship brewpub, it’s a place that’s as ambitious as it is aspirational. Of its numerous food and entertainment attractions, props also go to a cabaret-style ‘show restaurant’. ul. Grzybowska 60,

attractions, it is the retention of its historic character contrasted against the newly inserted elements that makes it such a visually enticing, standout hub. ul. Dobra 42

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

HALA KOSZYKI

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Set in the revitalized space of a 19th century vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer. An island of prosperity in the otherwise largely gritty Praga suburb, props go to the Koneser Grill and Bombaj Masala. With the pandemic still lurking in the background, Koneser’s wide open plaza acts in its favor. Pl. Konesera

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

A magnificent reinvention of a historic power plant that once kept the city fed with electricity today, it’s feeding Warsaw something a helluva’ lot more tastier. Comfortingly stringent in their hygiene practices, you swing in for a food court that’s dazzling in both its offer and visual impact: neon is king! Cocktail bars, a craft beer point and an exhaustive selection of street food units (e.g. Philly cheese steak!) give cause to visit, but beyond these quite copious

HALA GWARDII

Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market outside, find a natural gravity effect that works to benefit both Gwardii and Hala Mirowska. Operating only weekends, Gwardii has become a well-loved addition to Warsaw’s gastro scene, with its farmers’ market working well with the food booths on the other side of this historic hall. Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1 Introducing the absolutely bleeding obvious, Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays. Still highly influential, it remains one of the places in which to be seen. ul.

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FORT MOKOTÓW

Like entering a secret world, a potholed lane flanked by scraggly bushes opens up to reveal a former Tsarist era military complex whose battered brick fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies, art studios and assorted creative think tanks. Food and drink also play a role here, with the lead taken by Żywa Kuchnia, an eatery that promises to regenerate the mind and body with their “bio-active, healing foods”. Schodki, meanwhile, is just about the most atmospheric gem you’ll ever wish to find: a place of battered brick, creaking wood and tangled vines, it’s a sublime setting for a bottle or three. ul. Racławicka 99

Eat! listings FORT 8

The penchant for reviving historical addresses and filling them with food and drink concepts has become a nationwide fixation, and Fort 8 stands as an example to all. Set at the point where Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów all meet, this 19th century Tsarist barracks has been buffed up spectacularly and its vaulted units infilled with workshops, stores and restaurants. Smashed sideways by the pandemic, the return of this upmarket bastion is good news for those that appreciated the charms of Dziruka od Klucza, Fort Bistro and Wine Corner. ul. Fort Służew 1B

NORBLIN FOOD TOWN

Behold, Warsaw’s newest food hub! Set in the sympathetically restored Norblin Factory, you’re right to expect a banging atmosphere – food-wise, Tex-Mex, Israeli, Uzbek, Thai and Indian tastes are just some to look forward to. And next door, find the celebrated Bio Bazar We’re bringing you the full lowdown next issue, so watch this space. Żelazna 51/53

fine dining EPOKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and

boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso has used the lockdown to simplify his menu, a work which gives regional suppliers an all-star role. But ‘simple’ is a relative term. The Europejski Grill has not lost its sophistication, as proved by a summer visit that saw us bowled over by a as a hazelnut soup with fig leaves and wild rocket and an artichoke confit served with a lightly grilled shallot cured for six weeks. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

NOBU

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

NOLITA

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’

might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul. Wilcza 46

SIGNATURE

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul. Poznańska 15

SZÓSTKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

french L’ARC

Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number

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Eat! listings affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul. Puławska 16

georgian RUSIKO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al.

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greek & turkish MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas

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and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality. ul.

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With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Al. Jana Pawła II 23

MYKONOS

GURU

You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul. Grzybowska 62

SANTORINI

Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7

indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

BOMBAJ MASALA

Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking.

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8

INDIA GATE

Deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a rich mango sauce. Specializing in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and dosa stuffed with cheese. If there’s a complaint, then it’s the chef’s reticence to go completely psychotic when it comes to assaulting us with spice. Al. Jerozolimskie 87, indiagate.pl

KARMA

With an entrance half-hidden behind a little cabin, find it set within a hulking Socialist Realist block inside a unit that once ticked by selling wedding dresses. Now, this address sells something a lot more valuable: curry. Though a little drab inside, the

Eat! listings curry is a contender for the Insider’s favorite of 2021. Outside the more generic items, Southern Indian cuisine is a specialty, and that’s affirmed by golden donut-shaped wada snacks, idli lentil rolls, fluffy uttapam pancakes and the altogether thinner dosa. ul. Nowolipki 14 (enter from Jana Pawła II)

italian ALTRO LOCALE

Presented by chef / owner Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for your attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. Passionate in its approach to modern Italian cuisine, Locale never misses a step. ul.

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DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B

japanese JAPONKA

Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring a magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’! ul. Grzybowska 56

KISEKI BY ALON

It’s not just the food that feels perfect, but the design itself. Set inside a glass cube, find pristine interiors decorated with swathes of street art by Swansky, clever lighting and plants and flowers hanging from the ceiling. It’s just beautiful to look at. ul. Chmielna 36A

MIZU

Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, the sushi is something special.

Touting a modern-minimal look, the off-center location in a former factory since requisitioned by ad agencies lends to the sensation of dining somewhere a little under-the-radar. The sets are great value and offer a rounded view of Mizu’s skills. ul. Duchnicka 3

MOYA MATCHA

Set in a minimalistic, meditative space, visit for a wondrously chilledout journey into the world of matcha. Specializing in organic matcha and leaf teas, there’s also a range of organic products and ceramics to buy, as well as wonderful miso cookies to nibble while engaging in the whole matcha ritual. ul. Oleandrów 6

NOBU

Famously co-created by Robert DeNiro, producer Meir Teper, and chef Nobu Matsuhisa, it’s little wonder that this hotel was one of the much-hyped openings of 2020. The on-site restaurant, an exercise in zen-like luxury if ever there was, has also proved a pull with offerings

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings such as wagyu beef tacos, king crab tempura, kushiyaki skewers, not to mention house signatures like black cod with miso and yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno. ul. Wilcza 73

SATO GOTUJE

This commie era pavilion is one of Warsaw’s ethnic treasures with a menu high on bitey Japanese street foods that you gobble with pleasure: choose from joys like grilled mackerel; fried pork chops with Tonkatsu sauce; or their addictive donburi rice bowls. ul. Pawińskiego 24

UKI UKI

How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul.

Krucza 23/31

WABU

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu – a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw

Spire)

ul. Oboźna 9

THE COOL CAT

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

K-BAR

Co-owner Czesio has injected his life, soul (or is that Seoul?) and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling. Like being buzzed into an artist’s loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried. For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab are nothing short of bliss. ul. Piękna 28/34

korean

latin & spanish

HESU WARSAW

CEVICHE BAR

Looking at the design components isn’t unlike viewing a Pinterest board featuring all the other new-wave joints around town, and that familiarity extends to a millennial color palette high on clashing

shades of pastel. Staff, almost predictably come with mustaches, tatts and Hawaiian shirts, and these trend-conscious foot soldiers bring forth one of the city’s best kimchi salads. Blue rice and loaded cocktails add to the fun, young slant.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one

of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4

mexican DOS TACOS

Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. ul. Jasna 22

EL POPO

Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. ul. Senatorska 27

LA SIRENA

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

Eat! listings SENOR LUCAS

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on ul. Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. ul. Hoża 41 (enter

from Poznańska 16)

middle eastern JOEL SHARING CONCEPT

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin. ul. Koszykowa 1

LE CEDRE

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. Al. Solidarności 61

MAGHREB

Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the

table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9

polish (modern) BEZ GWIAZDEK

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul. Wiślana 8

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod.

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

ul. Próżna 12

MUZEALNA

Excited? You bet! Opened by the same team behind Ale Wino, Muzealna promises contemporary Polish cuisine inside the pre-war

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings modernist National Museum. We’re visiting the moment this issue goes to print – check in with us next month to see how it went. Al.

Jerozolimskie 3

NUTA

Previously earning a Michelin star for his beautifully daring Senses restaurant, and entered in Le Chef’s 2019 list of 100 Best Chefs in the World, Italian chef Andrea Camastra is back! Promising an experience far less formal – but no less world class – his latest project opened for informal, experimental ‘sittings’ in February with the menu focused on reimagining traditional Polish recipes. Full report next month!

PATELNIA PATERA

Warm, welcoming woodsy finishes offset against soothing pops of sunset shades make it a place in which you want to settle in and take it slow. Checkered black-and-white floor tiles add a hint of classic bistro styling, whilst the empty pans adorning the walls stare out like blank canvases as if serving to inspire Mariusz the chef to new flights of fancy. Dedicated to giving new life to old recipes, the schabowy is the best we’ve ever tried – anywhere! ul. Wilcza 29A

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

THE EATERY

Terrazzo surfaces, orb-like lights

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

and a clear white color palette give The Eatery a comfortable look that’s well-suited to a modern Polish menu delivered by chef Bartłomiej Trojanowski. Highlights from our visit – and there were many – included panko-crusted potato with creamy cottage cheese and pinches of charlock; art-like Ruskie pierogi; and a mushroom soup the like of which we haven’t tried before. Quite simply, think of The Eatery as the most unexpected pleasure you’ll discover all year. ul. Ostrobramska 73E

THE FARM

Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. ul. Mokotowska 8

ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ

A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. ul. Smolna 4

ŹRÓDŁO

The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address. Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contem-

porary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality. Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam. With mains around the mid-30s, it’s outstanding value as well. ul. Targowa 81

polish (classic) PYZY, FLAKI GORĄCE PODWALE 5

Polish pizza!? You gottit’. While it won’t provide competition for any of the new wave Neapolitan pizzerias around town, they’re still very decent and come with a focus on Polish-style toppings like beets, salmon and chanterelles. But the real deal here is the homemade Polish fare. Natutrally, pyzy are the highlight, and you should enjoy them with a nip of vodka to deal with any post-meal bloat. Though basic and mundane, the atmosphere is great. ul. Podwale 5

RESTAURACJA POLSKA “RÓŻANA”

Seated in their garden, one feels removed from the city – a fountain burbles quietly in the background, starlings hop around the trees. From the inside, one hears the distant tinkle of the house pianist. Just being here is a thrill in itself, and the food is a Polish dining extravaganza served from the top table: farmhouse duck, saddle of venison, etc. ul. Chocimska

SCHABOWY

The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start

Eat! listings with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1

STARY DOM

A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106

seafood LOKAL NA RYBĘ

Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation that makes reservations almost mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a pop-up, the simple surrounds are outweighed by a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4

steak houses BEEF N’ PEPPER

Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the

food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin.

ul. Nowogrodzka 47A

BYKBAR

Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. ul. Rozbrat 8

BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.

ul. Żurawia 22

HOŻA

Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A

KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all

stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals, it does more than simply serve our favorite meaty cuts; it makes the neighborhood feel complete. ul. Walecznych 64

thai THAI THAI

A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. Pl. Teatralny 3

vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneu-

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Eat! listings ver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. ul. Wilcza 60

LA VEGANA

From the very point of entry, there’s something likeable about La Vegana. Interior-wise, money has been spent wisely on a design that blends teal colors with wood finishes, wicker extras and statuettes of kneeling deities: you wouldn’t call it visionary, but it’s a pleasant, roomy space that partners well with the concept and cuisine. Though the menu is largely indecipherable, it offers an exhaustive range of Asian-titled dishes split into small and large bowls. Of the former, we recommend the tofu bulgogi, and fried tofu skin. ul. Zgoda 4

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

ÓSMA KOLONIA

Having been established in 2014, this gem of vegetarian/vegan restaurant opened long before the plant-based new wave landed

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

in Warsaw. A place of distressed concrete and dangling bare bulbs, design isn’t so much minimal as it is non-existent, but that fits in with the underlying spirit of natural cool. Sourcing veg from grocer extraordinaire Pan Żiołko and the dairy from the cult Mlezcna Droga, find the quality ingredients magicked up into dishes like eggplant meatballs, with fresh mint, pine nuts, parmesan and ricotta. ul. Słowackiego 15/19

PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS

Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come. ul. Mokotowska 58

TEL AVIV

A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. ul. Poznanska 11

VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

Nothing short of a phenomenon, that they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand. Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade

game and a pink surfboard), their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ Order the spicy miso ramen and you too will become a convert. ul Finlandzka 12 a, ul.

Kazimierzowska 43 & Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54

UKI GREEN

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. ul. Koszykowa 49A

YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI

Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. ul. Hoża 62

vietnamese MISS BANH MI

A former model by profession, Nina’s traditional tofu and homemade bread (baked fresh each day!) combine in the form of memorable banh mi. Glowing warmly from the outside, step inside this small, steamy unit to pick from five choices, among them meatballs with fermented egg yolk. Salty and tender, they taste even better when paired with a local craft beer or a Vietnamese coffee. ul. Lwowska 9

Drink! PLAYERS READY

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The games pub taking Warsaw by storm!

WHERE IS IT? The Nowy Świat addy is a deception. Find Cybermachina not on the main high street but rather behind it on ul. Gałczyńskiego. Set in a labyrinthine basement unit just past the very decent Teheran restaurant, old-timers might remember this as the home of the rather naff Rocky-style Tiger pub owned by the former heavyweight champ Dariusz ‘Tiger’ Michalczewski.

warsawinsider.pl

Cybermachina Warszawa ul. Nowy Świat 54/56, fb.com/CybermachinaWarszawa

WHAT IS IT! Good question. The easy answer is a games pub, but describing it as such is a bit of a disservice: there is nothing typical about Cybermachina, so boxing it under such a catch-all term doesn’t do it justice. This place is bonkers! BUT WHY? Mostly, for the sense of fun that it exudes. Illuminated with neon lights depicting legends such as Pac-Man, find glass cabinets filled with helmets and rubber masks, a mannequin of Mortal Kombat’s Scorpion and a urinal that announces “You’re Breathtaking” in glowing 3D lettering.

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

ANYTHING ELSE? Hell yeah. Best of all is a side room that’s been designed to evoke an 90s-style Polish living room. Featuring wood paneled walls and parquet flooring, the highlight is a wall unit whose shelves house treasures such as a vintage boombox, a groovy KK-628 calculator watch, the works of Terry Pratchett, a Pegasus gaming machine and vases of plastic flowers. It’s a living museum! AND WHAT SHOULD I DRINK? Smoke and Holba beers are on tap, whilst in the fridge find an array of crazy craft beers from

breweries like Deer Bear (e.g. pink guava, passionfruit and nectarine pastry sour). True, at zł. 22 per can, these do not come cheap. Elsewhere, liquid amusements come via house drinks such as Robert Unicorn Attack (a non-alc. cocktail made using banana, blackcurrant and blue curacao syrup). Back to the booze, and shots include Angry Bird (their take on the Polish ‘mad dog’), and ‘Multiplayer’ options such as Dragon Balls (raspberry vodka, mango syrup, lemon juice). WHAT ABOUT THE GAMES… Yes, many. There’s a big screen for tournaments, and a pile of

Reviews

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this is more than just a place that’ll restore and replenish, it’s a place that tastes good at other times as well...

LOOKING GRAND Norblin's Piano Bar plays the right tune..

retro games such as Worms Armageddon and Deluxe Ski Jump. Exploring, find also a room for Guitar Hero, consoles strategically spread around, and shelves filled with board games like Talisman, Dixit, Catan and Neuroshima Hex.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE MIROS_FOTOGRAF/

AREN’T I TOO OLD? Of course not. Popular with foreign exchange students, TEFL teachers, nerds, couples, girl gangs (yep, that surprised us), and IT types, the average age is probably mid-20s, but the atmosphere is such that everyone feels welcome. And really, if there’s one thing we love is that it doesn’t have the ear-piercing racket you’ll find in other gaming bars. On the contrary, it’s super chill with plenty of corners for quiet conversation while music from the X-Files pipes all around. FINAL THOUGHTS Honestly speaking, we thought this place would be a nightmare. As it turns out, it was the platform for one of the funniest nights we’ve had in ages. Quirky and amusing, there aren’t many places in Warsaw that share the same mood. Make that none – it’s extraordinary!

rior to their near-simultaneous launch, there were some doubts as to whether Wola was big enough to support the addition of two mighty projects the size of Norblin and Browary Warszawskie. Well, whose worried now? The early success of both has provided a sense of relief in a city still shaken by the impacts of the lockdown, though visiting either it’s easy to forget all that even happened the last year and before. And that strikes especially true inside the Piano Bar, a glinting jewel in Norblin’s crown. Crowned with a show-stealing 12-foot chandelier that dangles from the ceiling of this dual-level structure, it’s a venue that oozes with affluence and sophistication. Touting chessboard tiled floors and tie-wearing staff, the feeling is of entering a jazz tycoon's ballroom. And for all the classy sense of maturity, there is much fun to be had, and in part that’s down to a busy program of concerts that are welltuned to the space: funk and blues jams are a forte. So too, though, are the author’s cocktails. Devised by Tomek Malek, a former World Champion ‘flair bartender’, his influence as Norblin’s beverage director courses through the veins of this beautiful bar. Order up an Edith Piaf and let the evening begin!

Piano Bar

Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)

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Reviews

THE PERFECT BLEND

Design, coffee, atmosphere join as one in Po Drodze...

Po Drodze

Bagatela 11, fb.com/podrodze.kawiarnia

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY DANIEL KOZIŃSKI

pened a couple of weeks before the first lockdown (oops!), Po Drodze’s management would have been forgiven for seeking out the nearest clifftop and driving right off it. Instead, they persevered and for that they deserve thanks – Po Drodze isn’t just good, it’s up there with the best. Competitive as Warsaw’s specialty coffee scene is, this place is a stand out. The magic they pull with Ethiopian coffee is to be commended, though equal credit is reserved for their other magic beans from countries such as Brazil, Colombia, Panama and Rwanda. For non-coffee drinkers there’s also an abundance of choice: herbal teas, softs from Fentimans, smoothies and freshly-squeezed juices. But most of all, it’s the vibe that stands out. Occupying two rooms inside a beautifully renewed tenement that leans over Bagatela, head to the back to discover the real soul of this cafe. Decorated in a soothingly Scandi-style, here it’s all concrete colors, raw timber, subtle splashes of art and lighting fixtures that are as captivating as the punters. Slouching on sofas or gathered around the oval central table, a rich smorgasbord of Warsaw characters await: headphone wearing digital nomads, exchange students flicking through their notepads, couples playing catch-up and influencers shooting videos for their next Tik Tok hit. Over this all, an air of calm somehow prevails to cast Po Drodze in a cocoon-like bliss – life seems to pause and in the most pleasurable of ways. With its name translating to mean On The Way, even if it’s not you should still swing by – so writes one Facebook follower, and it’s a sentiment with which we’re happy to concur. Undefeated by the lockdown(s), you should think of Po Drodze as one of new, dashing heroes of Warsaw’s booming café culture.

Reviews JUST OPENED

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Opening a second joint in February, Charlie’s little sister finds itself slotted inside the Palace of Culture

THE LEGEND CONTINUES! Charlie gets the big screen treatment…

very cocktail afficionado will already be aware of the enigmatic Charlie on Mokotowska, and in all likelihood they’ll know it as much for its sense of 1920s glam as they will its carefully crafted cocktails – a sensual delight, it’s enshrined in Warsaw legend. But as we all know, legends grow, and in Charlie’s case that growth has been physical. Opening a second joint in February, Charlie’s little sister finds itself slotted inside the Palace of Culture. Set right next to the Kinoteka cinema (or, actually, to the left of it), the location feels more than incidental.

Espousing an air of cinematic cool, the new bar sets itself up for silver screen comparisons – with its high ceilings, bow-tied bartenders and heavy sense of drama, some will draw parallels to The Gold Room in the Overlook Hotel. Others, meanwhile, will immediately think of Gatsby. In truth, either works. Breathtaking in its style, the gorgeous visuals – velvety fabrics, discreet lighting, heavy bits of brass and no shortage of big, leafy plants – are matched by a succinct drinks list that involves a handful of cocktails with names like Castaway and The Big Lebowski. Not just highly drinkable, they’re also affordable with prices beginning below 30 and peaking at 34. Superbly atmospheric, it’s a venue that suits the location to a tee. Charlie Kinoteka Pl. Defilad 1

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Drink! listings after work classics CENTRAL BAR

The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and four years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. ul. Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

DZIEŃ I NOC

Looking insta friendly with its interior of brickwork, succulents and marble-topped tables, Dzień I Noc have earned a cult following since opening at the height of the pandemic. Offering authors cocktails and mainstream beers, it offers the promise of a solid night out in these paranoid times. Pl. Mirowski 1

ELEKTROWNIA POWISŁE

The indoor food hall indoors opens out into a sea of neon signs and a sleek, professional crowd posing for selfies over cocktails. And yes, drinks are every bit as important here as the food. Choose between a craft beer vending station or the two principle bars that bookend the complex: Centrala Bar at one end or the more cocktail-driven Kandela at the other. (E3) ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com

LEGENDS

Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. ul. Emilii Plater 25,

legendsbar.pl

WOZOWNIA

Wozownia brings together a good-looking crowd inside a 200-year-old carriage house whose competent cocktails and cheapy Prosecco keep it busy. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Pl.

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clubbing ENKLAWA

Forget Tinder, Enklawa is the best pick-up joint around – a classic kitschy, glitzy disco, it draws in huge crowds with a simple lineup of pop and dance hits. Still regarded as the best Wednesday night in Warsaw, it’s the place for singletons looking for a one-night confidence boost. ul.

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LUZTRO

Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! Al. Jerozolimskie 6

RITUAL

Looking dark and sensual, this

two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. ul. Mazowiecka 12

SEN

Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wall-to-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. ul. Wioślarska 6

SMOLNA

Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. ul. Smolna 38

SYRENI ŚPIEW KONESER

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Almost insane in the scale of its ambition, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial add-ons. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds

Drink! listings of lunacy breaking out: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. The very definition of debauched decadence, the brilliance is underlined by flawless cocktails and the best-looking crowd in the country. Pl. Konesera 4

dressing. The modern design, DJs and drinks work seamlessly to generate an ambiance that’s buzzy, energetic and something of a scene. Cocktail-wise, order Warsaw’s best Pisco Sour or explore a ‘Nikkei’ card that blends Peruvian and Japanese ingredients to present truly unique tastes. ul. Twarda 4

SPATIF

CHARLIE

Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control Al.

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cocktails AURA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons. ul. Hoża 27

CEVICHE BAR

Though primarily celebrated for their Latin American menu, the ‘bar’ part of the name isn’t there for window

Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. ul. Mokotowska 39

EL KOKTEL

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9

FLAMING BISTRO

With its perfect white colors, the glass-fronted oblong form of this pearl of interwar modernism has an elegant sophistication to it that’s ravishing to look at. But it becomes even more so out the back. It’s here you’ll find a garden that’s been in-filled with well-spaced wooden decks hiding amid the vegetation and plant life. A garden in the truest sense of the word, the best view is from the balcony on top. Accessed

via a glorious spiral staircase, it’s from here you gaze down on the impeccable Saska crowd that gathers below to sip sparkly wines, house lemonades and author’s cocktails. ul. Francuska 2

LA SIRENA

Though primarily known as a Mexican restaurant, the cocktails are of such a standard that it’s become impossible to ignore La Sirena’s credentials as an exceptional bar as well. Fixed using a range of premium tequilas, the innovative tastes feel all the better for the intriguing surrounds: walls of corrugated iron and peeling plaster are coordinated with crossed machetes, shrill neon and decorative tiles. The final effect brings to mind a deadly cool recreation of a drug baron’s jailhouse cell. ul. Piękna 54

LONG BAR

Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

LANE’S GIN BAR

Perfectly proportioned, it’s intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks when seated at a bar that presents a motherlode of glimmering bottles set against a mosaic that gently riffs on the Hotel Bristol’s Art Nouveau and Art Deco spirit. But do not think of this as simply a hotel bar. World

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Drink! listings class in style and offer (and prices!), head barman Karol Rybacki has mixed for names like DiCaprio, Connery, Rihanna and Madonna. His inspirational drinks are enjoyed in a high-ceilinged room that looks achingly sensual with its plush pink fabrics and stunning geometric light installation. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44

LORETA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup.

ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

NOLA

NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe. ul. Wilcza 43, nolabar.pl

PALOMA INN

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, it’s a joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curvaceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’. Groovy muzak provides the audio, whilst the crowd is young, international and thirsty – the author’s cocktails are great, with our winner being the Green Bubble (melon liquor, cognac, tarragon, lemon juice and fizzy water). For food, order fondue or herring served with vegan caviar in the layered style of an éclair. ul. Poznańska 21

REGINABAR

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. ul. Koszykowa 1

THE ROOF

Twenty-one floors high, find The Roof perched on one of Wola’s newest skyscrapers. Featuring indoor and outdoor seating, the air of sophistication manifests itself by way of inspiring house cocktails (e.g. a Warsaw-themed sarsaparilla), a vampish crowd and a design that feels luxurious, elegant yet tastefully restrained: sleek furnishings and well-deployed plants and spherical lights that never detract from the star attraction: stonking views of the glittering city. Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 (The HUB)

THE ROOTS

Having recruited some of the top bartenders in Poland, The Roots have a serious artillery on which to rely. So committed is this haunt, its

walls are graced by a vast collection of cocktail memorabilia: antique jiggers, shakers, coolers, not to mention an original signed copy of the world’s first cocktail handbook (published: 1862!). ul. Wierzbowa 11

VHS BAR

An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff, and enjoy them on a pavement terrace that teems with life and laughter once evening strikes. Poznańska 7

WARSZAWA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found in a saucer-shaped building that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. It’s nothing less than super cool. ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B

dive bars CZESKA BASZTA

Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s

Drink! listings favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

MIEJSCE CHWILA

Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. ul. Żurawia 47

NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos. Find them through the passageway at Nowy Świat 26.

OFFSIDE

Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. ul. Brzeska 16

ŚWIETLICA

Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

W OPARACH ABSURDU

Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. ul. Ząbkowska 6

ULUBIONA

Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months. Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. ul. Nowy Świat 27

late night legends BAR PACYFIK

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of

drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. ul. Hoża 61

BAR STUDIO

The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Pl. Defilad 1

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. ul. Poznańska 12

GRAM

Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... ul.

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THE SHAMROCK

The Shamrock is little more than a

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Drink! listings shabby bare room lit by a greenish Carlsberg sign. But the dearth of aesthetic thrills is compensated via its atmosphere. Find a melting pot of nationalities slopping beers over each other while shouting their orders to Curtis and his family behind the bar – high on noise and bellowed banter, the atmosphere cranks yet further whenever Curtis grabs his guitar to lead his audience in song. ul. Zgoda 5

live entertainment CENTRUM ZARZĄDZANIA ŚWIATEM

Covering a couple of levels (and including a secret room snuck behind a bookcase), this social-cultural space is best described as a composition of molecules that celebrate the suburb: balustrades from Targowa street, street lights from Park Praski and no shortage of murals from local talents. And the toilets? Step inside a cargo

container. Something of a multi-use environment, you might walk into a flamenco evening one night and improv comedy performances the next. ul. Okrzei 26

bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer.

HYDROZAGADKA / CHMURY

WOREK KOŚCI

Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the low-ceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

KLUB POGŁOS

Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from

ul. Burakowska 12

H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. ul. Bagatela 10

specialty coffee COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-theclock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Wilcza 42

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer,

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

Drink! listings the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul. Hoża

58/60

DOBRE MATERIA

Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working. Coffee comes from the likes of HAYBE, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though

the cakes – from vegan producers such as Miód Makina and Sadki – should not be overlooked either. ul. Nowolipki 13

FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul. Andersa 6

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends. ul. Niemcewicza 3

FORUM

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing

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Drink! listings weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. ul. Fabryczna 28/30

KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK

This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. ul. Łucka 18

RELAKS

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul. Puławska 48

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. ul. Wilcza 17

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

STOR

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul. Tamka 33

wine bars ALE WINO

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. ul.

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BUBBLES

Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance. A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Pl. Piłsudskiego 9

CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE

Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu,

too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab. ul.

Koszykowa 49A

LA BUVETTE

La Buvette sits like a hidden gem, nestled on a charming street that radiates off Stara Ochota’s Pl. Narutowicza – tree-lined and looking like a cloned version of a picturesque arrondissement of Paris, it’s a pleasure to sit on the terrace. And if you’ve got a tiny dog, you’ll fit right in! Come evening, pick through boards of gourmet cheese whilst sipping on a curated choice of French wines picked by co-owner Harold, a native of Strasbourg. ul.

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RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ

Rausz na Wilczej used the pandemic to reposition themselves as a wine store / bar, building on their previous reputation for sourcing quirky labels you wouldn’t have necessarily heard of before. “In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” In addition to their Spanish, Italian and French collections, find excellent wines from less familiar destinations: Slovenia, Czech, Austria and Georgia. ul. Wilcza 27

WINNICE MOŁDAWII

Set in a 1920s villa that survived the war, you’ll be visiting for a family-run business specializing in the import of Moldovan, Georgian and Romanian wines. Covering both classics and the latest trends, it’s a portfolio that’s broad in its style and aching to be discovered inside a converted garage attached to the house. Wallow in the suburban serenity of their leafy garden: doing so, you’ll come close to drowning in bliss and authentic hospitality. ul. Czarnieckiego 63A

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Art Book Cabin

SPRING BREAK

Goodbye winter, hello sunshine – maybe. With spring dawning on March 20th, check out some of the greatest escapes within range of Warsaw...

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ART BOOK CABIN

ALE WIOSKA

HEJ HUS

Warsaw’s ‘thing’ for cabin living was kickstarted in 2019 with the unveiling of the Bookworm Cabin, a compact little beauty just 45-minutes from the center. Looking like a chiseled black diamond from the outside, so engaging was the design that the place went globally viral. To meet demand, owners Marta and Bartek (you’ll know him as the dude behind such concepts as the Weles speakeasy joint and the Warszawa Powiśle bar) have now added a little neighbor almost identical in style. What’s different? Style-wise, you’re looking at a paler, creamier décor and bookshelves with a more artistically inspired offer.

Who hasn’t dreamt of toasting themselves in a traditional banya before making an al fresco dash to an authentic yurt? That dream becomes a reality at Ale Wioska, a charming little retreat nestled in a meadow close to the Turka River. Born from the owners love of “beautiful sunsets, birdsong and smell of morning dew”, the accommodation is simple but beautifully appointed: cocooned in the womblike warmth of your yurt, doze under skylights that afford a glimpse of the stars that encrust the skies. Making a big deal of their eco credentials, added points go to their ‘environmentally friendly paddling pool’, educational paths, farmyard produce, bike trails and kayaks.

Designed by an architectural studio known for their modern rural concepts, discover Hej Hus lying 50 clicks from Warsaw and a short distance from Pułtusk. Borrowing heavily from Japanese aesthetics, the zen-like calm is given extra oomph by the presence of panoramic windows, rolling greenery and a relaxation zone that includes a two-person Finnish sauna and an outdoor wooden tub. Unplug and revive!

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Prices from zł. 400 alewioska.pl

Prices from zł. 599 hejhus.pl/wynajem

ALL PHOTOS PRESS MATERIAL EXCEPT HEJ HUS BY ADAM MUSIELAK/ SLOWPOLSKA

Prices from zł. 425 fb.com/bookwormcabin

NAD NARWIĄ

NAYABAYA

Z OKNEM LAS

Set in the nearby town of Serock, options at Nad Narwią are two-fold: cheerful dome tents with modern fittings, outdoor decks and burbling hot tubs, or super cool houseboats whose floor-to-ceiling windows gaze over the River Narew. There’s little chance you’ll be engaging in watersports in March, so instead content yourself with checking out the wider region such as the landscape park nearby. And if you don’t appreciate cooking on your hols, then head to the Narvil, a striking and contemporary hotel famed for its cuisine.

Described by the owners, Ania and Szymon, as being “as small as a house for gnomes but as cute as Winnie the Pooh”, Nayabaya’s name comes from a fusion of two Japanese words: naya, meaning barn, and baya meaning a chilled state of mind. And that’s precisely what you’ll find inside this simple but achingly smart barn conversion. “The biggest attraction,” add the proprietors, “is the star-studded sky.” That might be, but praise must also go for a magical bathtub with a porthole to the outside world, and an overall design that must have been designed with the concept of ‘hygge’ high in the mind. Explore the apple orchards outside, before returning to crack open the telescope and admire the skies.

Covering a footprint of just 35 sq/m, the big sell at Z Oknem Las reveals itself in the title: yep, a window staring out onto the forest that envelopes this cabin. Built during the pandemic, the newness and fresh, contemporary design vibes well with the silence and greenery around. “We don’t have a TV,” says the owners, “but the window takes completely over that function – you can sit for hours looking at the birds and racing squirrels.” The soul-warming nature of it all is bolstered further by a fireplace positioned in front of a deep, comfy sofa and an outdoor firepit that’s ideal for grilling sausages and meats acquired from Pani Helenka in the village of Mikówka.

Prices from zł. 550 nadnarvia.pl

Prices from zł. 350 fb.com/nayabaya.cabin

Prices from zł. 300 fb.com/zaoknemlas

warsawinsider.pl

learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact

admissions@aswarsaw.org

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl 70

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

18.12.2018 12:32

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age.

ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education

with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and

accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6

years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

thebritishschool.pl

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the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728

939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the

world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:

admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

NEW NURSERY GROUPS Wilanów and Mokotów location Applications now open! www.tep.edu.pl

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

admissions@tep.edu.pl

696 904 687

tions from Nursery to Year 9. Please

email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as

children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning

environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL Treating

pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta

131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

warsawinsider.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów

4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna

as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A

(grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

shopping accessories BEAUTYLAB POLSKA

Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. beautylablondon.pro

EYEBAR

At Eyebar the expert team meets needs through their perfect eyebrow care and makeup products. If you dream about having the perfect brows, their sets are available from Eyebar salons or online at our website. eyebar.pl

GLAMSTORE

Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colors you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelry line. ul. Narbutta 83

LEKKO

Lekko offer four specialized oils that are strong but gentle and sharpen the senses. Using CBD extracts, they strongly focus on concepts of selfcare and wellbeing. made from the highest quality crops and sourced from farms run in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture, all products are approved by verified labs. lekko.com

Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

SCHUBERT

Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

fashion

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

ARKADIA

Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry,

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

PLAC UNII

experiences MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al.

Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

MYSIA 3

Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

Online

Don’t Miss A Beat!

For the latest trends and stories from Warsaw join us at warsawinsider.pl

warsawinsider.pl

THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

warsawinsider.pl

4 9 km

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

8 2

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

warsawinsider.pl

IT’S OFFICIAL!

Warsaw’s iconic EMPiK building earns protected status…

familiar sight to all residents of Warsaw, the EMPiK building on the corner of Jerozolimskie and Nowy Świat has been inducted into the Register of Monuments for its artistic and historic merit, not to mention its symbolism. Representative of the city’s reconstruction, it was opened in 1952 – the eighth anniversary of the foundation of Poland’s Communist state, and adorned with the message: “the whole nation is building the capital”. Constructed in Socialist Realist style, but also featuring

Warsaw Insider | MARCH 2022

Classicist flurries, it housed the International Book & Press Club and became one of the leading cultural institutions in the city – a place where people could stock up on international press from the Communist sphere (and sometimes beyond), meet authors, partake in discussions and sip ersatz coffee in the trendy ground floor café. In 1964, a mosaic by Władysław Zych was added on the side facing Jerzolimskie. Passing away before the project was fully implemented, it fell to Zych’s wife, Wanda, to oversee its completion. Depicting a military action undertaken by the People’s Guard, this wartime Communist resistance group launched two attacks on the café that had stood on the site previously. One in 1942 and the other in 1943. In the decades prior to the war, the plot had housed a popular café frequented by such figures as the dramatist Stefan Żeromski and the writer Władysław Reymont. After war broke out it was commandeered by the Germans and became a drinking spot for Nazi officers, something that made it a target for the underground. Though both attacks failed to do little more than injure a handful of officers, these acts were later lionized by a Communist government desperate to find wartime heroes that followed Socialist ideology. Though currently ringed by temporary mesh fencing and daubed with graffiti tags, hopes are high that it shan’t be long until the building is returned to its pristine former state.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

History

WARSAW'S BIGGEST For Warsaw at its best, visit us at Hala Gwardii for good vibes, the city's top food market, international street food tastes, traditional Polish products and a busy list of events aimed at young and old alike – winter doesn’t have to be boring! For more, see: www.facebook.com/halagwardii

BUZZ Open Friday through Sunday Plac Żelaznej Bramy halagwardii.pl