Warsaw Insider August 2021 #300

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The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

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#300 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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AUGUST 2021 Features:

Summer Lovin’ Everything you need to do in August – and where! – p. 10

Plus:

Remembering the Warsaw Uprising – p. 8 Nightlife newbies: The Roof, VHS Bar, Pinta, The Pavilion – p. 44

LIVE MUSIC &

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Contents August 2021

Reviews: EAT! Syryjka – p. 23 Kura – p. 24 K-Bar – p. 25

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, COVER PHOTO BY DRONEINWARSAW.COM | FB.COM/DRONEINWARSAW | INSTAGRAM.COM/DRONEINWARSAW

Am’or Eklery I Wino – p. 26

DRINK! VHS Bar – p. 43

A PROUD BUT TENDER MOMENT, the anniversary of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising (that’s August 1st to all of you that have been living under a rock) never fails but to move all those that are in the city for its traditional minute’s pause. More than ever before, it’s also a pointed reminder that, in actuality, our lives are pretty good. The offices might be empty and the tourists still missing, but in many respects ‘the new normal’ that we were told to expect is starting feel more and more like ‘the old normal’ that we’d supposedly left behind. Certainly, you get that idea when visiting the bars and restaurants of downtown Warsaw. In this respect, the summer has definitely helped push people from out of their caves, and it’s in celebration of this that we’ve spent the month out and about and busy exploring – the results are forthwith. Inside, find everything you need to know (and some stuff you probably don’t) about enjoying summer in the city – have a blast!

Pavilion – p. 44 Roślina – p. 45 Hocki Klocki – p. 46 The Roof – p. 47 Pinta – p. 48

Discover

Pharmacy Museum – p. 57

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Palmiry – p. 59 Fountains – p. 62

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS Tel. (022) 783-6000

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In brief

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

PUBLIC ART

Neighbors Again!

Hot on the heels of the district’s Kora mural, another stunning piece of outdoor art has appeared in Bielany – this time dedicated to the memory of actress Krystyna Sienkiewicz.

ound on Żeromskiego 44/50, the mural has allowed the two stars to once again be neighbors. Living on ul. Płatnicza – the same street as her friend, the songstress Kora – both became cultural icons. In the case of Sienkiewicz, the popular actress was famed for appearing in such as films as Jutro premiera (1962), Lekarstwo na miłość (1967) and Rzeczpospolita Babska (1969). A giant of the stage, she was also well-known for her associations with theaters of the caliber of the Rampa, TR Warszawa and Ateneum. Awarded the Gloria Artis medal in 2007 for her contribution to Polish culture, as well as the Knight’s Cross of Polonia Restituta in 2003, she also appeared in several TV serials and was well-known for her sung poetry. Moving to Warsaw in 1985, she lived in the same Bielany home until her death in 2017. A hugely popular local figure, she established a gallery in her back garden titled “The Hut of Unnecessary Things” and was also known as a keen pet lover. Painted in much the same style as the Kora mural, the artwork honoring Sienkiewicz was designed by Tomasz Majewski and executed by Good Looking Studio.

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REAL ESTATE

Monkey Business?

On the fringes of Old Town, a legendary palace is to be revived as a five star hotel…

ompleted in 1753 for Count Jan Klemens Branicki, the Rococo-styled Pałac Branickich is to regain its luster under a new guise as a luxury hotel owned by the Marriott group. Set to open next year, the project is already being hailed for the sensitivity of a restoration that will see its facades, interiors, forecourts and courtyards meticulously renovated. Neglected for several years, the palace was rebuilt after the war after sustaining severe damage. Rebuilt in the peace that followed, it soon became the source of one of Warsaw’s favorite little

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

stories – you see, look carefully towards the corner of the roof and you’ll decipher the stone figure of a banana-clenching monkey. For years, the presence of the primate baffled historians – who, they asked, would commission such a work? The answer is no-one. Rebuilt in the late 1940s, its reconstruction was based on the historic paintings of Bernardo Bellotto (a.k.a Canaletto). Though the specifics vary, it’s generally agreed that Bellotto secretly added the ape to his painting in an act of spiteful vengeance. If legend is to be believed, the owner of the palace reneged on a deal with Bellotto, so the painter added a monkey to his picture as a sly little dig (this at a time when monkeys were regarded as simplistic, idiotic creatures). Others, meanwhile, claim that Bellotto harbored a strong grudge against the lady whose statue originally appeared on the spot so swapped her likeness for a hairy ape. Either way, the last laugh belonged to him.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE PAGE VISUALIZATIONS COURTESTY OF WXCA

In brief

URBAN PLANNING

Green Dreams Pole Mokotowskie looks to the future…

f all of Warsaw’s pipeline public projects, there can be few that have enjoyed the same swell of support as the reimagination of Pole Mokotowskie. Regarded as one of Warsaw’s favorite parks, news that it would be regenerated to a plan by the prestigious WXCA architectural studio was met with widespread approval – partially, this was in no small amount due to visualizations that presented images of lavender-filled meadows, a natural yearround pond, meandering trails warsawinsider.pl

In brief

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

“It’s frustrating,” says Grodzicki. “By compacting the vision into a list of items that are guided by finances and bureaucracy the idea becomes diluted. It looks likely that the central park and water system will be realized, but it’s doubtful that the approaches will be redone. This will mean there’ll still be an element of disconnect between the park and the city.” Although fiscal contractions are to be expected given the economic trauma caused by Covid, Grodzicki is quick to urge a longer-term view. “There’s a common misconception that creating green areas is cheap and easy – that it just involves planting a few trees. But that’s not the case. When you look at Europe’s most famous parks they’re considered an investment, and a substantial one at that. Cutting corners and going for cheaper options is not an answer and we

need to change our mindset when it comes to that.” Ultimately, though, according to Grodzicki a path has already been forged for a greener urban future. “Contemporary parks are very different from the historic parks that were created with the Sunday stroller in mind,” he says. “Now, they need to be places of activity and they need to be places where a synergy is created between humans and nature. We used to think of our cities as places of stone with the occasional green area, but we should not be looking upon parks as islands in a sea of concrete. We need to learn to merge the two together.” In this regard, Pole Mokotowskie is a firm step in the right direction. Already a legend among Varsovians, it’s popularity is set to soar yet further once work commences.

VISUALIZATION THIS PAGE COURTESTY OF WXCA, OPPOSITE PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

and innovative pavilions symbolic of air, earth and water. “You can describe Pole Mokotowskie as a social and cultural phenomenon,” says Paweł Grodzicki, one of the architects involved in the project. “Of course it’s not perfect, but generally speaking it’s a place loved by its users. As such, at WXCA we placed a lot of effort into understanding what people liked and disliked, and our strategy was to reinforce the good points while minimizing the faults.” As part of their vision, WXCA sought to inter-weave the needs of man with the needs of nature. “It sounds obvious,” says Grodzicki, “but when we think of parks we don’t think of nature as the primary focus.” To do so, WXCA looked to increase the share of sustainable circular processes in the functioning of the park by introducing greenery based on the principles of permaculture while simultaneously expanding the water ecosystem to include a main water reservoir, canals, rain gardens and wet meadows. Crucially, neither has the end user been ignored. “It’s the spontaneous activities that make Pole Mokotowskie what it is,” says Grodzicki. With this in mind, added attractions number cross-country skiing routes, BBQ ovens, off-leash zones for dog owners and parkour facilities. “As someone who lives close by, the project took on a very personal meaning,” admits Grodzicki. Notable for the immensity of its ambition, the plans have been tempered by the knowledge that not all of the project will be executed. Budgetary cuts, says Grodzicki, ensure that as little as 20% of the overall vision stands to be implemented.

PHOTOGRAPHY

That Manhattan Moment The quintessential Instagram shot location

ere’s your background notes: for decades, plans had been mooted to connect Mokotów with Wawer, but it wasn’t until 2002 that the idea was realized courtesy of Siekierkowski. Considered Warsaw’s most southerly bridge, it’s also the only one in town whose foundations don’t touch the water. And impress your buddies with this little factoid: the 5,300 sq/m of cables from which the bridge hangs weren’t painted County Jail

orange because of a surplus of psychedelic paint, but rather to prevent birds from flying headlong into them. But enough of that – the real reason to visit is a little more arty. Flanked by woodland on either side, the river’s natural bend and the distant glimmering skyline have made it a favorite of photographers looking to contrast Warsaw’s futuristic, Manhattan skyline against the river’s wild glory. Get this shot right, and your Insta will go crazy!

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Feature

The Struggle For Memory Erased from Polish history by the Communist authorities, join us for a look at the 45-year battle to remember the Warsaw Uprising…

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

SHUTTERSTOCK

s has become customary, at 5 p.m. on August 1st sirens will blaze out across the capital as the city joins as one to momentarily pause to reflect on the human sacrifice brought about as a consequence of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising. The premise of the insurgency had been simple – with Soviet forces but a door knock away, Poland’s underground army, the AK, had planned to liberate the city from Nazi occupation ahead of the Red Army’s imminent arrival. However, hopes for a swift campaign proved ill-founded and the battle descended into a 63-day bloodbath that ultimately claimed 250,000 lives and left the city in ruins. Seen as the city’s defining moment, Warsaw would never be the same again – both physically and psychologically. Despite the enormous impact it would have on Poland, it would take decades for the Uprising to be commemorated in the manner it deserved. Considered a bourgeois insurgency by Poland’s post-war Communist leadership, government policy saw the battle airbrushed from history and many veterans persecuted on ideological grounds. In the absence of any defined memorial, the closest residents had to pay tribute to the fallen came in the form of the so-called ‘Tchorek Plaques’. Designed by artist Karol Tchorek, and selected as part of a competitive process held in 1949, these stone tablets were spread across the city to mark the sites of Nazi street executions. Though these covered the breadth of the city’s

occupation, it was no coincidence that the dates given on so many of these corresponded with those of the Uprising. Regardless, overt mention of the insurgency was strictly avoided. And so it continued. Although competitions for a monument were held in the thaw that followed Stalin’s death (most notably in 1956 when plans for a Monument of the Heroes of Warsaw were unveiled), the politics of the PRL continued to thwart their implementation. Cracks in this repression of memory began to finally appear during the Solidarity protests. Galvanized by the 1979 visit of Pope John Paul II, the Solidarity movement became a juggernaut and the ‘correction’ of memory an increasingly hot topic. Although an official monument to the Uprising itself remained a long way off, authorities relented by allowing the raising of a small memorial to ‘the Little Insurgent’. Based on a figure first created by Jerzy Jarnuszkiewicz in 1946, and depicting a gun-carrying boy in an oversized helmet, the 1.5-meter statue was funded by scout collections and erected just outside the Old Town on October 1st, 1983. Though now deemed controversial by those who interpret it as a glorification of child-soldiers, its debut represented a huge victory for those seeking to redress the balance of memory. Another significant step came when a Solidarity priest, Father Jerzy Popiełuszko, was murdered by security agents in 1984. Such was the outpouring of public feeling that Poland’s leader, General Jaruzelski, ceded to the prosecution of those involved. Rather than placating the population,

this served only to motivate them further in their push for change – in this atmosphere an independent committee was formed to construct an Uprising monument. Perhaps aware that apprehending those involved would only sow further unrest, the state instead resorted to attempts to infiltrate the group so as to manipulate their decisions. Co-authored by sculptor Wincenty Kućma and architect Jacek Budyn, what was born was a ten-meter high edifice of two distinct parts – in one section, a group of combatants charge into battle, in the other, a nurse, a priest and a wounded soldier descend down a manhole to escape the carnage. Positioned on Pl. Krasińskich, a short distance from where insurgents had fled the Nazis through the sewers, the monument was finally inaugurated on August 1st, 1989, a long-overdue recognition of the Uprising. In the words of the eminent historian Norman Davies, “there could have been no better signal to announce that the Communist regime was on its last legs and was losing the will to defend the fictions on which it had been built.” True, not everyone was happy. Some criticized its defeatism, others its references to the bumptious, colossal forms associated with Socialist Realism. Regardless, its construction signaled the end of a 45-year conflict to remember this epic moment in Polish history. Now, as always, expect it to be swallowed in a haunting candle-lit glow on the August 1st anniversary of the Uprising – in this phoenix-like city, few sights can be more moving than this monument at night.

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Feature

WATCH… The Sunset

Ain’t nothing like watching candy floss sunsets on a long summery night. For this innocent pleasure there’s no shortage of spots, and one of the more prime perches includes the city’s own Ghostbusters Tower – find the viewing terrace of the Palace of Culture open until 10 p.m. till each Friday and Saturday. But for something a bit more smoochy, head to Gnojna Góra in the Old Town – once a trash heap (Napoleon was said to have been repulsed by it), now it offers enchanting views of the river. You won’t be alone. Enshrined as one of Warsaw’s favorite kiss spots, find the railings decorated with soppy lovelocks professing eternal love.

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA (2), COURTESY OF THE COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTER

For the hottest month of the lot, paste the sunblock on and get outdoors! From the bleeding obvious to the hidden charms, we bring you the very best that August has to offer…

JOIN…

A Walking Tour Use the city as a living museum and join up with a free walking tour. Specializing in subjects such as Old Town, WWII, Jewish Warsaw and more, there’s a few to tag along with – you could do a lot worse than linking up with Orange Umbrella (orangeumbrella.pl) or Walkative (freewalkingtour. com). With foreign tourists a rare sighting, expect numbers to be far more modest than usual. The city is yours!

HAVE…

A Cook-up What’s summer without a boozy, starlit BBQ! A few things you need to know: first, don’t be an idiot and hold a smoke-out on your balcony. It’s illegal to do so and you’ll face a fine for your efforts. So too in other at-risk places liable to cause fire or annoyance. And forget taking your BBQ set to the posh parks like Łazienki and Saski. Instead, do what the rest of Warsaw does and head to Pole Mokotowskie or the patchy bit of scrubland that flanks Most Poniatowskiego. The sight and smell of dozens of flickering fires is one of the sensations of the summer.

TAKE…

To The Rooftops Become a skywalker by visiting Warsaw’s rooftop parks – set practically next door to each other, that means swinging by the BUW Library and the Copernicus Science Center. In the former, walk a one hectare plot slashed with sloping metal walkways and leafy alcoves, while in the latter, traverse maze-like paths cut among the flowerbeds. Each of them stunning, on one side you’ll be viewing the river in all its summer glory, and on the other, the busy urban skyline reaching for the clouds. When the skies turn scarlet, the feeling isn’t unlike walking in some alien world. People, welcome to Mars. warsawinsider.pl

Feature INNER SANCTUMS

For hidden Warsaw at its best, penetrate the courtyards for the city’s unseen side…

For Socialists

Strictly-speaking, there’s nothing special about the courtyards in the Palace of Culture, but they do allow for the unerring sensation of being shrunk to the size of an ant. It’s in these damp hollows you appreciate the overwhelming size of Stalin’s gift to Poland. More fun, not least thanks to the bars that back out onto it, is the courtyard within the former Communist Party HQ at Nowy Świat 6/12. Completed in 1951, two-years later thousands flocked here to file past a portrait of Stalin during a symbolic funeral ceremony. Home to Poland’s top officials, 70s leader Edward Gierek would reputedly chill out looking out onto the courtyard while flicking through his daily copy of Le Monde. With the ground floor units now in-filled with bars, the inner courtyard has never been livelier.

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

For Something Iconic

Around 300 courtyard shrines can be found in Warsaw, and though Praga is especially famed for them (taken on its own, the area has around 120) they’re also prevalent in other parts of the city that survived WWII. Though some date to Tsarist times, most popped up during the Nazi occupation and served as secretive places of public worship at a time when the church faced relentless persecution. Together, they brought with them a feeling of ‘security, solidarity and even freedom’. Often eccentrically decorated with flowers, twinkly lights and assorted add-ons, they’re a curious glimpse into times gone by. Lovingly maintained to this day, they vary in size and general health, but regardless of this they represent a fascinating chapter in local history.

For Social Media

Completed in 1913 to a design authored by Wacław Heppen and Józef Napoleon Czerwiński, the tenement at Sienkiewicza 4 was reputedly inspired by the Ecole de Beaux Arts in Paris. Originally seven-floors in height, it lost two of these during the war. That wasn’t all. Previously home to luxurious apartments for Warsaw’s high rollers, the post-war years saw it decline into a cracked, broken state. Now finally renovated (or sort of, anyway), slipping into the courtyard allows visitors a true sense of the city’s rich contrasts – jutting out behind, almost like a space rocket, the 22-storey Moniuszki Tower provides a brilliant clash between the then and the now.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: KEVIN DEMARIA, SHUTTERSTOCK, KEVIN DEMARIA (4), SHUTTERSTOCK

For Traditionalists

You feel the pomp of Poland’s past glories in the Royal Castle’s courtyard, a place that took its present shape under the rule of King Sigismund III Vasa – yup, the same dude that shifted the capital from Kraków to Warsaw. For the pre-war glory years though, have a poke around the gritty courtyards that are sandwiched between Jerzolimskie and Nowogrodzka – to see them from a bird’s eye perspective, the 40th floor Marriott Panorama Bar offers unhindered views.

For Curiosity Seekers

Not all courtyards are equal. Beat the buzzer to enter Hoża 70 and you’ll happen upon what’s colloquially known as ‘the Doll House’. As cute as a button, and sneaked inside a 19th century courtyard, this two-floored building was added in 1910 and served as the home of the Hipolit Majewski dyeing store until 1937. Dwarfed by the surrounding buildings, and capped with a trio of pointy gables, it’s a genuine covert gem.

For The Modern Man

When it opened in 2003, Sir Norman Foster’s Metropolitan building helped usher in a new era for Warsaw’s architecture. Eighteen years on, its ring-shaped courtyard remains a photographic fave for its sleek looks and spewing fountains. But arguably even more enticing is the courtyard of the BUW Library – head to the fantastical rooftop park to peer down into a small courtyard that appears as unexpectedly as a sinkhole.

For History Buffs

Many of Warsaw’s courtyards bear the scars of war, not least the ghostly, jagged ruin on Waliców 14. Even more poignantly, head into Bracka 5 to see an inscription announcing to mourners the removal of Antoni Szczęsny Godlewski’s body to Powązki Military Cemetery. Killed in action during the Warsaw Uprising, the 17-year-old was originally buried on Bracka in 1944. Around 1.5 meters in length, the inscription was added the following year by the combatant’s mother. warsawinsider.pl

Feature CHILL…

Among The Statues Even through history, Królikarnia (Puławska 113A) has always been a hoot – built in the 18th century for Augustus II, its primary function was to serve as his hunting base, though according to some it was actually little more than ‘a high class brothel’ built with debauchery in mind. The palace survives, and this forms an interesting backdrop for an unusual sculpture park whose set of rules at the entrance specifically state that visitors are free to “hug the statues”. Of these there are many, and they run the gamut from the heads of Poland’s kings and bards, to cute little ladybirds and weird zonkyeyed lions. Bring books and a picnic and let the day slide away.

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

CATCH…

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM RIGHT: KEVIN DEMARIA (5), ALEX WEBBER (2)

A Match

August means football! After a summer break that feels like it lasted about four minutes, Warsaw’s sportsmen will already be back on the pitch by the time this mag falls into your hands – but although for many that will mean heading down to either Legia or Polonia, for others it means soaking in the pleasures of the city’s bizarre amateur scene. As per tradition, the highlight of the fixture list will be a cup match that pits Kartofliska (a groundhopping blog whose motto is ‘Football Without Alcohol Is Nothing’) against Bar Ulubiona, a pub team composed of journalists, wanderers and even ex-pros (like, for instance, the bloke that netted for Legia against Man Utd in 1991). Attracting a good-natured crowd of flare-wielding beer monsters, it’s a magical demonstration of the more humorous side of Polish football. This year, this clash of titans will be played in Radość on August 14th. Will the winner take it all? Course not, they’ll just earn the chance to run out against other sides featuring roly-poly players of varying age and skill.

SPOT…

The Shipwreck For many locals it’s a source of embarrassment, but for others the shipwrecked barge at Port Czerniakowski is one of Warsaw’s great curiosities. Half-tipped to its side, it’s been sat there for years – no-one knows who own it, and as a result the city have seized ownership and attempted to sell it for several years: for PLN 7,000 this wreck could be yours. Granted, it’s hardly the stuff of Pirates of the Caribbean, but its an odd point of interest that makes for great snaps. In a region riddled with half-crazy urbex spots, it’s one of the finer little treasures for adventurers to explore. Brilliantly, neither is it the only sunken vessel you may see. warsawinsider.pl

Feature

PLAN…

Your Own Mural Tour Reflecting Warsaw’s creative streak, the city’s once gloomy walls have become a canvas for ambitious art and large format murals. In this respect, the district of Ursynów has fast become the de facto center of action, but let’s not kid about, for the overwhelming majority of people it’s the suburb of Praga that always comes to mind. It’s here that Warsaw’s case of mural-osis first gathered pace, and while many of these works are increasingly looking flaky and chipped, this serves to only emphasize the gritty atmosphere of this upcoming area. And for each that looks knackered, find others that are fresh and recently unveiled. To tap into Praga’s soul, plot out your own mural tour using: puszka.waw.pl.

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT: COURTESY OF TYTUS BRZOZOWSKI, COURTESY OF ECOLOGIXSTUDIO (2)

BREATHE…

The City’s Cleanest Air Described as a world first, a new playground has thrilled the planet’s design and science media after being unveiled on Warsaw’s riverbank. Designed by the London-based ecoLogicStudio, the project allows children to play inside a cylindrical AirBubble containing the purest air in the city. Set outside the innovative Copernicus Science Center, the solar-powered structure has been kitted out with soft, squidgy seating and hanging ropes – by jumping on these, children activate the

52 bio reactors. Each filled with ten liters of live Chlorella, these in turn blast fresh oxygen into the enclosed playground. Connected to monitoring systems both inside and out, early tests have revealed that the AirBubble is capable of reducing harmful PM2.5 particles by up to 83%. “Algae inhabit the aquatic environment,” say the Copernicus Science Center. “Despite this, they can capture solar energy up to 50 times more effectively than land plants. They use particles of carbon dioxide and nitrogen

oxides as food and increase their biomass. Like all plants, they also release oxygen.” Shocked into action after reading a WHO report that claimed up to 93% of the world’s children breathe polluted air when playing, the team behind the project – Dr. Marco Poletto and Dr. Claudia Pasquero – now hope that more AirBubbles could be rolled out across the world – until they are, your chance to check out the one in Warsaw lasts until October 31st. “The fun,” add the Copernicus Science Center, “is free.”

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Feature

Clockwise from above: Suntago water park, volleyball courts at Cypel Czerniakowski and Moczydło Water Park

PACK…

Your Swimmers Show off your beach bod at any number of Warsaw’s pools – come summer, the city opens an array of outdoor pools, many of which have benefited from recent overhauls to bring them into the correct century. From these, inside picks include the vast Moczydło Water Park (featuring a 50-meter pool for serious swimmers, and slides and water playgrounds for those more committed to frolicking) and the generous complex at Szczęśliwicki Park. Over on the Praga side, visit Błękit, a super-fun spot revived under the auspices of LunaPark – as such, there’s a strong millen-

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

nial vibe: consider an inflatable unicorn a must-have accessory. If you’re feeling brave, then forget the pool and hit the sands instead – of Warsaw’s clutch of river-side bathing spots, then Poniatówka at the base of Poniatowski Bridge is easily the city’s fave. The clean toilet facilities are definitely an added boon. Boasting more shade and less people, do also consider visiting Żoliborz beach at Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 2 or Rusałka on the right bank – it was on the latter than Canaletto painted his epic 18th century work, ‘View of Warsaw From Praga’. For the active-minded, then Cypel

Czerniakowski offers rentals of watersport equipment and comes with the additional bonus of touting a weird monument to Polish sappers that helped de-mine the area, not to mention a spread of deckchairs, volleyball courts and other diversions. Last but not least, head out-of-town to Suntago, a.k.a. Europe’s largest water park. Opened about one second before the pandemic (ouch!), the 67,000 sq/m indoor complex includes 18 pools, 32 slides, palms imported from Florida and Malaysia and various zones themed around things like ancient Egypt and Valhalla.

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Feature

COUNT…

post-war reconstruction as a nod to the decorations that once advertised the town’s stores in the 16th and 17th century. Inducted into the Register of Movable Monuments at the tailend of June, these unsung little beauties were manufactured by the top craftsmen of the PRL era – though often now crowded out by garish ice cream signs, they’ve become an essential part of the Old Town’s aesthetics. In all, there’s 24 for you to track down.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The Semaphores

No matter how jaded you might be of heading up there, it’s an unwritten rule that at least once every summer residents will find themselves knocking elbows with the tourists up in Warsaw’s historic Old Town. Emptier than usual (no guessing why), add a purpose to this year’s visit by setting yourself the task of counting the area’s semaphores. Locally known as semafory, these ornate metalwork signs were added during Warsaw’s

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

WALK…

A Watery Labyrinth If you’re still lurking around Port Czerniakowski then don’t think of leaving before tracking down the bio filters (Google map them by typing Biofiltr Port Czerniakowski). Offering childish great fun, you’ll find yourself running over a network of duckboards, footbridges and gangplanks that are a joy to explore. Set out in an almost labyrinthine pattern, their true purpose is to filter the waters but don’t let that stop you from having a blast. With greenery cascading around you, this place feels like the ultimate hidden city secret. warsawinsider.pl

Feature GET…

Your Jazz On In spite of the lack of decent jazz clubs to be found in Warsaw, it’s a sound that this city loves – especially when played outside. Running until August 28th, head into the Old Town to listen to free concerts showcasing the hottest talents in Poland… and abroad. Taking place each Saturday at 7 p.m., if nothing else it’s a joy to see the city alive once again. For scheduled performances, click on over to: jazznastarowce.pl.

BECOME… If you’re tired of the mainstream blockbusters at the cinema, or are too jittery about sitting in a closed room next to sneezy, groping couples, then Warsaw’s outdoor kino program is here to save the day. Now it would take about seventy sheets of paper to list all the forthcoming screenings, suffice to say you won’t have a problem finding something of interest. Costing zilch, and offering a quirky program infinitely more interesting than your latter-day rubbish, look for a schedule at Filmowa Stolica (filmowastolica.pl). Of the more interesting venues, you’ll be able to catch a movie outside the National Museum or the charming Saski Park. Beyond the places falling under Filmowa Stolica’s umbrella, other notable places to investigate include Elektrowni Powiśle, the Palace of Culture, the Royal Castle and even the Ursus Factory. Seek and ye shall find (though it’ll help if you Google ‘kino plenerowe’).

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PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE PRESS MATERIAL

A Film Buff

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Eat!

SYRIAN PLEASURES Discover Puławska’s unsung hero…

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Review

INSIDER TIP Loaded with fresh mint, the tabbouleh is outstanding. Before you go, take home baklava – in our case, the paluszki pistacjowe is impossible to beat. (KD)

Syryjka ul. Puławska 20

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

THE KING OF CHICKEN!

ll the good things to come out of the street food revolution, then Kura are there with the best. Originally starting off as side street op in Muranów, this bird has grown wings to expand across the city – and their latest venture, touching down in Wilanów, is the most ambitious yet. Amid some street art doodles and ceiling plants, locals gather inside this diner-style spot to feast on Kura’s mainstays – that’s golden fried chicken and double-fried chips – while pondering the occasional wild guest appearance of things like chicken shoehorned inside cones drizzled with maple syrup. And don’t forget their essential dips; in our case, we rarely look beyond the Challenger No. 3, a richly tangy dollop of spice that lends life to the mouth. Matched with the addition of breakfasts and American-themed desserts straight from the food porn canon and you have a place that’s perfect for a family Sunday chow-down. And with a fridge full of Polish craft beers, you could even use it for a guys' night out.

Kura Branickiego 11, restauracjakura.pl

PHOTOGRAPH LEFT KEVIN DEMARIA, RIGHT COURTESY OF KURA, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

yryjka’s decor is no great shakes, but the true food lover will look past the generic mundanity of the design to instead focus through onto the vegetarian cuisine that has made this a stalwart of Lower Warsaw. Unassuming and most definitely not for scene-inspired foodies, the simplicity wins through via quite splendid food. For this Insider, that means a regular order of Talerz Syryjki, a beautiful fresh canvas of food served in a portion that’s big enough to share – though you certainly won’t want to. On this, painterly gestures of fresh hummus await, as too do mutabbal (an eggplant dip) and muhammara (spicy red pepper dip) sprinkled with pomegranate seeds. So fresh and perfect is it all, diners find themselves scooping up the spoils with a handheld pita. And there’s the falafel – though others do it well, Syryjka do it better. There is not a better falafel that we’ve so far found. Scattered with Arabian olives, an assortment of pickled gems and a salad (either fatush or tabbouleh) it’s hard to think of a better vegetarian deal in the city: for zł. 28, all this is yours!

Review

VIBE

K-Bar has Seoul! Originally from the South Korean capital, Czesio has injected his life experiences and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling. Like being buzzed into an artist’s loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. In some ways, you may think of hiding away above Mr. Charrington’s store in George Orwell’s 1984.

K FOR KOMFORT

A place of cult legend, look to K-Bar to fill your K-Food cravings…

BACKGROUND

Over the years this upstairs space on Piękna has been many things to many people – most recently though, it’s made waves in its current guise, that of an intriguing den of Korean ‘things’. Launched before the pandemic, it was born from the vision of two friends, Czesio and Tomasz, who saw it as a place in which to sell vintage furniture while serving Korean food. Slowly, those ideas have blurred so much that it’s not uncommon to find visitors pulling off price tags from the furniture not knowing what they were there for.

FOOD & DRINK

The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried. Hard and textured on the outside and soft and juicy on the inside, it’s served with delicious daikon kimchi. For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab along are nothing short of bliss, more so when enjoyed with an ice cold K-Mate. The Korean-themed cocktails are also great fun, something affirmed by the high-spirited crowd.

FOR FUN

Check out K-Bar’s catchy videos on YouTube or take home a jar of KFC sauce to pimp up your cooking. Also, don’t leave without bagging some of their homemade kimchi – it’s a great way to stock up your pantry for any house party you’re holding.

UP AHEAD

Keep your chopsticks at the ready for K-Bar are already eyeing further locations. Having conquered the center (10,000 FB fans can’t be wrong!), plans are afoot for K-Ramen joints in Żoliborz and Ursynów. (KD) K-Bar Piękna 28/34, Tel. 881 405 017

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Review

etter late than never! Five years after the trend first broke out in the world’s major culinary hubs, eclairs with flair have finally hit Poland – and no-one is doing them better than this gorgeous-looking locale snuck away on Krucza.

THE PLACE

PRETTY IN PINK

The éclair revolution slams into Warsaw!

A couple of weeks you probably chortled when city authorities announced a long-term plan to remodel Krucza street in the manner of Barcelona’s La Rambla. But as amusing and unlikely as this might sound, that doesn’t detract from the feeling that something special is happening on Krucza. Once perceived as cold and inhumane, today the street is rapidly assuming its own identity thanks to an influx of super-cool enterprises – places like Am’or. Looking dashing in its shades of pastel pink and gold trim, it looks pleasing perfect with its pristine parquet and heart-shaped seats. Scattered with flowers (pink of course) and marble-topped tables, it’s classy, fun, feminine and smart.

THE ECLAIRS

Laid out with military precision, these are eye-catching gems that look almost too good to consume. You want to covet them from each possible angle, recording the results on your phone before sending the pics out to all of your contacts. Featuring embellishments such as a swirly rainbow-colored unicorn mane, these are elegant creations filled with cream that’s so light you suspect it might float away. Making use of seasonal fruits, posh chocolates and gourmet cheese, you’ll even find some with utterly wacky additions: pastrami beef, for instance, or yet others themed around the concept of ‘apple pie’ or ‘gravlax salmon’. Deliciously daring, these are eclairs that set a new domestic benchmark – in fact, it wouldn’t be out of place to compare them to the quality you’d find out in Paris. The eclairs here are enough to make you feel euphoric, but as the name suggests, there’s a drinks scene as well – sparkly wines by the bottle or the glass, fancy cocktails and – get this – pink lattes are all an added incentive to check this place out. Am’or Eklery i Wino Kurcza 23/31,

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

AND THE REST…

Eat! listings author’s cuisine ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul. Mokotowska 48

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

DYLETANCI

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and

dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

KLONN

cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul. Oleandrów 8

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

LOFT

ROZBRAT 20

Color, that’s what Loft has. It’s everywhere – from the design, which is all bubble shaped lights and splashy, bright cushions, to the drinks: extravagant cocktails that possibly glow in the dark. The menu is full of playful experimentation, something reflected by a seasonal menu that has, in the past, presented such choices as chicken with strawberries. ul. Złota 11

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite write-ups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20

bakeries AROMAT

“Good bread needs good flour,” says Mathieu, one half of the mother / son duo that founded Aromat back in 2014. Sourcing theirs from a small French mill, the attention to detail has not been lost even as Aromat

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Eat! listings have blossomed to cover numerous addresses around Warsaw. And aside from bread, also anticipate a choice of coffee and pastries – the lemon eclairs deserve their own fan club. Various locations

CAŁA W MĄCE

“My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!” Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul. Krasińskiego 18

RANO

Set on upcoming Stalowa street, the number of top restaurants that are using this place to source their bread is indicative of their unquestioned quality. Looking – and smelling – exactly as you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do so, find their offer given an extra boost by indulgences such as brioches and scones. ul. Stalowa 47

chinese PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

ice cream and so much more. ul.

REGINA BAR

This place was practically designed for the new millennial: craft beers, hanging succulents, neon signage and a communal table. Using pastrami as their hero ingredient (you’d never have guessed, right?), find it inside sandwiches, burgers, bowls of shakshuka and even on pizza. Love it! ul. Solec 50

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1

comfort food KUR & WINO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz, as does a terrace crowded with crates and palms. ul. Andersa 21

PALOMA NAD WISŁĄ

Attached to the modern art museum, people flood here to enjoy an atmospheric wooden-decked terrace, an exciting choice of spritzers and food that captures the zeitgeist: artisanal cheeseboards; stuffed rotis; fish tacos; vegan

Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47

PASTRAMI BISTRO

POGROMCY MEATÓW

Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

desserts KUKUŁKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Recruiting the acclaimed Beza Projekt studio to handle the design, the result is a funky two-level space with monochrome floors, spirally stairs and little blasts of color set against the stark, minimalistic concrete finishes. But what really gets you are desserts that lift this piece of Warsaw in the direction of heaven – the cream puffs are something else.

ul. Mokotowska 52

MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by

Eat! listings offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62

MOD DONUTS

or scope: fresh fish, cheese, eggs, bread, cured sausages, honey... you name it, they’ve got it. Comprehensive in its pitch, everything you need to pursue a bright, happy life is here in this legendary farmers’ market. ul. Wołoska 3

FORTECA KREGLICCY

Spot the stars of Warsaw’s restau-

rant and blogging scene perusing the stalls at this weekly farmers’ market. Held each Wednesday, look for Pan Ziółko, Poland’s first celebrity farmer (!), Portobellos from the country’s only organic mushroom farm and the magical yogurts from Mleczna Droga Manufaktura Serów. Even the bottom-feeding carp here tastes bang on. ul. Zakroczymska 12

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27

SŁODKI BEZ

Cake: good. Sugar: bad. We all know that. But what you might not know of is the existence of Słodki Bez, a small little store specializing in sugar-free desserts. And it’s not just sugar they’ve dispensed of altogether, but also white flour, gluten, lactose and all the other synthetic nasties that we’re meant to dislike. Using natural substitutes, find a rich array of cakes and sweets such as vegan banoffee pie, chocolate nut cake, chickpea brownies, macarons, tarts and pralines. ul. Hoża 54, slodkibez.pl

farmers’ markets BIOBAZAR

First founded in 2010, BioBazar pre-dated Warsaw’s love of food-from-the-source and triggered a city-wide trend that’s shown no sign of slowing. Though imitations have come thick and fast, none have matched this original in either size

Miodowa 1, tel.888 575 457 | Hours: Wed-Sun: 12:00-21:00 fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa www.trattoriarucola.pl

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Eat! listings HALA GWARDII

Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market outside, find a natural gravity effect that works to benefit both Gwardii and Hala Mirowska. Operating only weekends, Gwardii has become a well-loved addition to Warsaw’s gastro scene, with its farmers’ market working well with the food booths on the other side of this historic hall. Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1

HALA MIROWSKA

As popular with undercover chefs as it is with queue-jumping pensioners wielding walking sticks like sabers, the accessibility of its price tags is bettered only by the rich bounty of produce that awaits. In the post-war units attached to the core building, Darek at No. 17 has amassed a legendary reputation for his edible flowers; at 115, cheeses and handmade sausages are the order of the day; whilst Pani Anna at 114 has been called the Queen of Mirowska for her peerless skills handling a butcher’s cleaver. Your best bet is to pencil in a full afternoon here. Pl.

Mirowski 1

fine dining EPOKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso has used the lockdown to simplify his menu, a work which gives regional suppliers an all-star role. But ‘simple’ is a relative term. The Europejski Grill has not lost its sophistication, as proved by a summer visit that saw us bowled over by a as a hazelnut soup with fig leaves and wild rocket and an artichoke confit served with a lightly grilled shallot cured for six weeks. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

NOBU

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

NOLITA

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’

might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul. Wilcza 46

SIGNATURE

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul. Poznańska 15

SZÓSTKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

french L’ARC

Looking elegant with its black/white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number

Eat! listings affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul. Puławska 16

georgian RUSIKO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al.

Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality. ul. Londyńska 16

MYKONOS

You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul. Grzybowska 62

indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Ujazdowskie 22

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead.

greek

BOMBAJ MASALA

MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by

ul. Nowy Świat 58

Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Al. Jana Pawła II 23

BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA

Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a

warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

CURRY HOUSE

Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54

GURU

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8

INDIA GATE

Deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a rich mango sauce. Specializing in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and

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Eat! listings f & b super hubs

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER KONESER GRILL

Set in the revitalized space of a 19th century vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer. An island of prosperity in the otherwise largely gritty Praga suburb, props go to the Koneser Grill and Bombaj Masala. With the pandemic still lurking in the background, Koneser’s wide open plaza acts in its favor. Pl. Konesera

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

The big headlines last year were set aside for Elektrownia Powiśle, a magnificent reinvention of a historic power plant that once kept the city fed with electricity. Today, it’s feeding Warsaw something a helluva’ lot more tastier. Comfortingly stringent in their hygiene practices, you swing in for a food court that’s dazzling in both its offer and visual impact: neon is king! Cocktail bars, a craft beer point and an exhaustive selection of street food units (e.g. Philly cheese steak!) give cause to visit, and if you’re antsy about staying indoors then head out to find the immense spaces outside dotted with deckchairs and – as of this year – a huge, ventilated marquee with well-spaced tables and full shelter from the elements. Beyond these quite copious attractions, it is the retention of its historic character contrasted against the newly inserted elements that makes it such a visually enticing, standout hub. ul. Dobra 42

PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT, PRESS MATERIAL/KONESER GRILL, KEVIN DEMARIA (2)

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

Eat! listings

HALA KOSZYKI

Introducing the absolutely bleeding obvious, Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays. Still highly influential, it’s guaranteed that once the weather warms up its front courtyard will again become one of the best people watching spots you’ll find in the city. ul. Koszykowa 63

FORT MOKOTÓW

If you’ve not visited Fort Mokotów before, shame on you. Like enter-

ing a secret world, a potholed lane flanked by scraggly bushes opens up to reveal a former Tsarist era military complex whose battered brick fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies, art studios and assorted creative think tanks. Food and drink also play a role here, with the lead taken by Żywa Kuchnia, an eatery that promises to regenerate the mind and body with their “bio-active, healing foods”. Schodki, meanwhile, is just about the most atmospheric gem you’ll ever wish to find: a place of battered brick, creaking wood and tangled vines, it’s a sublime setting for a bottle or three. ul. Racławicka 99

FORT 8

The penchant for reviving historical addresses and filling them with food and drink concepts has become a nationwide fixation, and Fort 8 stands as an example to all. Set at the point where Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów all meet, this 19th century Tsarist barracks has been buffed up spectacularly and its vaulted units infilled with workshops, stores and restaurants. Smashed sideways by the pandemic, the return of this upmarket bastion is good news for those that appreciated the charms of Dziruka od Klucza, Fort Bistro and Wine Corner. ul. Fort

Służew 1B

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Eat! listings dosa stuffed with cheese. If there’s a complaint, then it’s the chef’s reticence to go completely psychotic when it comes to assaulting us with spice. Al. Jerozolimskie 87

italian ALTRO LOCALE

Presented by chef / owner Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for your attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. Passionate in its approach to modern Italian cuisine, Locale never misses a step. ul.

Willowa 9

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

LE BRACI CUCINA

Opened pretty much the minute that the lockdown was eased, the

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

latest concept from restaurateur Daniel Pawełek is a celebration of la dolce vita, a stylish, carefree journey through the joys of modern Italy. Cooking, and that’s been left to Przemysław Samul, a chef with experience in several Michelin-starred international restaurants, and his menu is a deep dive into homemade pasta and Venetian-style cicchetti. Wine, too, plays a distinct role, though it’s their Negroni that could well become the ‘order of the summer’. Full report soon! ul.

Górnośląska 24

PROSCIUTTERIA

When Prosciutteria first opened, ooh, three years or so ago, it was hailed a sensation and proof as to the far-reaching ambitions of Warsaw’s burgeoning gastro scene. Based around cold cuts and served on heavy wooden boards, here was a convincing Italian menu to be enjoyed in a snug, warm interior composed of pre-war floor tiles, exposed brickwork and black and white images of Italian stars. You felt like you were on holiday. Now also doubling as a deli, it’s an orgy of tastes: Ubriaco cheese bathed in Prosecco; salami from Milan and Naples; five-year-old Veneto cheese washed in beer. ul. Solec 85

japanese ARIGATOR

This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni

bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. ul.

Piękna 54

SATO GOTUJE

Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul.

Pawińskiego 24

SHOKU

At Shoku, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space (or vast back garden) to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. ul. Karolkowa 30

UKI UKI

How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul. Krucza 23/31

WABU

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the

Eat! listings evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire)

YATTA

Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. Bartoszewicza 3

korean HESU

After a pandemic enforced slowdown, Warsaw’s growing appetite for Korean food has returned with vigor. Busy with a passing uni crowd, the young spirit is reflected by an interior that’s fun and hip – a bamboo bar and lots of different colored surfaces. Thus far, the raves have all been about the food which many claim to be the best Korean in Warsaw – full report next month! ul. Oboźna 9

and above all potent! ul. Solec 38

tiger that gazes from the wall. ul.

(also on Marszałkowska 8)

Olesińska 2

KOREANKA

SORA

A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. ul. Koszykowa 59

KOREATOWN REST

Here, the ubiquitous KFC (Korean fried chicken) is all crunch and crackle and the bulgogi tender, juicy and the right side of sweet; accompanying them, an assortment of bitey dishes heaving with chilli flecked kimchi, daikon radish and pickled bits and bobs. All very good, but nothing compared to the bossam, braised pork belly scooped up by hand inside glistening perilla leaves: it’s a dish that soothes, gratifies and leaves diners looking every bit as pleased as the pipe-smoking

Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. ul. Wronia 45

latin & spanish CEVICHE BAR

With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with

THE COOL CAT

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy

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Eat! listings seasonal sensations

LUNAPARK

When Lunapark first premiered in 2019 we named it “the most imaginatively insane F&B concept that Warsaw’s ever seen”. Nothing we’ve seen since has changed our mind on that. Occupying a derelict outdoor leisure complex, this weekend market gets a Coney Island makeover complete with a bar set around a carousel; a circus-style big top entered via the mouth of a grinning clown; a shot bar disguised as a shooting gallery; and a bank of fairground games. A

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

NOCNY MARKET

wild world of top quality food stalls, games, drinks and weirdness, it’s a haven of hip and a hedonist’s asylum. Defined by its incredible energy and madcap backdrop, visiting at the weekend is one of the big joys of Warsaw. ul. Wał Miedzeszyński 407

NOCNY MARKET

Will it ever die? Three years after they first announced their permanent closure (or is it four!?), Nocny Market have returned for a final hurrah – so they say. Set out on an

abandoned railway platform livened up with strips of neon, this weekend night market has become nothing sort of an institution. Gathering together dozens of street food vendors to form a patchwork of uber cool traders and hip little stands, organizers have this time promised to give preferential treatment to those hit hardest by the pandemic, as well as brands just starting out in their gastro adventure. To miss it is to miss out on an essential part of summer! ul. Towarowa 3 (Warszawa Główna)

PHOTOGRAPHS FROM LEFT, KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL (3)

LUNAPARK

Eat! listings

OFF BRZESKA

Whenever a new street food hub open, the temptation is to benchmark it against the Nocny Market. But OFF has its own distinct sense of identity, a factor helped by its location. Set against Brzeska street – a chipped, broken back road with something of a hairy past reputation – this alone contributes to a raw vibe that’s helped by the presence of an arty Praga crowd that feels far more Bohemian than anything in town. Though relatively small

in its size, the vibe is fab: drink craft beer under overhanging canvas sheets strung with colorful streamers that wave in the breeze. Not short on vegan options, the alternative feeling is aided and abetted by DJs, local bands and a crowd determined to make it a night to remember. ul.

Brzeska 25

TARG ŚNIADANIOWY

Alternating locations between Mokotów and Żoliborz, this open-air weekend extravaganza

TARG ŚNIADANIOWY

is a bit of everything: a food market, a picnic, even a place to get the bike fixed or to stock up on vintage vinyl. First debuting about a five-thousand years ago, you could point to Targ Śniadaniowy as being Warsaw’s first true street food concept – doing so wouldn’t be incorrect. Still boasting a staunch following, check in on their social media accounts to see what’s in store – not ones to stand still, you’ll find most weekends assigned a different theme or ethnic focus.

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Eat! listings teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4

TAPAS GASTROBAR

The popular practice is to order so many plates and bottles that the table becomes a Magic Eye of kaleidoscope patterns. A great place for sharing and general interaction, the ambiance and quality belies the corporate anonymity of the location. Though the gazapcho is first class it’s bettered by the patatas bravos: fried potatoes in a ballsy tomato sauce. ul. Grzybowska 63

mexican DOS TACOS

Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. ul. Jasna 22

EL POPO

Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. ul. Senatorska 27

GRINGO BAR

A Mexican wave is upon us, and high time too. After years of suffering frozen ingredients, timid flavors and daft Mariachi music to persuade us it’s all authentic, a raft of new cut-price eateries are showing the rest how it’s done.

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

Cooked and folded by fist bumping lads in back-to-front caps and baggy t-shirts, the food at Gringo is fiery, fresh and full of zing. There are detractors who claim this is a Polonized version of this cuisine, but the informal Gringo remains one of the market leaders. ul. Odolańska 15

LA SIRENA

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

SENOR LUCAS

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on ul. Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)

middle eastern JOEL SHARING CONCEPT

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef

and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin. ul. Koszykowa 1

LE CEDRE

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. Al. Solidarności 61

LE CEDRE 84

To see the diversity of this cuisine, order the balbaak (six cold starters) or the byblos (six hot). And food aside, it’s the atmosphere that carries them that extra yard: the whole philosophy of this cuisine is to share and share alike, making it a uniquely engaging experience when dining with friends. Al. Solidarności 84

MAGHREB

Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the addons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9

polish (modern) BARON THE FAMILY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of

Eat! listings canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best! Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

BEZ GWIAZDEK

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul.

Wiślana 8

ELIXIR BY DOM WÓDKI

The chef has taken local classics and redrafted the recipes with the swoosh of a contemporary pen. The outcome is a pleasure from start to finish: a life affirming żurek, a tartar that could fulfill ambassadorial duties for Poland, and a handsome beef tenderloin sprinkled with crispy potato shavings. Thoughtful pairings with lesser-known, boutique vodkas add another dimension that serves to complete this pleasing, patriotic adventure. ul. Wierzbowa 9/11

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art

doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. ul. Próżna 12

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

polish (classic) PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31

SCHABOWY

The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1

STARY DOM

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

A classic restaurant in style and

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106

seafood LOKAL NA RYBĘ

Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation that makes reservations almost mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a pop-up, the simple surrounds are outweighed by a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4

steak houses BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital. ul. Żurawia 22

HOŻA

Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows. A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant.

ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals, it does more than simply serve our favorite meaty cuts; it makes the neighborhood feel complete. ul. Walecznych 64

thai BANGKOK SOI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In a city where most Thai is overpriced and under-spiced Bangkok Soi are a knight in shining armor. Dispensing entirely of formality, order from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated

with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, what next arrives is a whir of full-throated flavors that you never expected. It’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. Al. Jana Pawła II 50

BASIL & LIME

One of only a handful of Thai restaurants in Poland to be certified by the international Thai Select organization, Basil & Lime are back after being forced to close their original Mokotow venue. Complete with a beautifully shaded pavement terrace, you can’t help but suspect the move has worked in their favor. Opening themselves to an entirely new audience in the center, this cult venue looks set to last on account of the skilled cooking of Thanawat Na Nagara. More on this soon! ul.

Oboźna 9

THAI THAI

A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. Pl. Teatralny 3

THAISTY

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. Pl. Bankowy 4

Eat! listings ice cream FRANK WARSZAWA

Mixing, so they say, French philosophy with New York creativity and Polish heart, a visit to Frank is like happening upon a little, local secret. The pastries are a standout, but you know what, so too is the ice cream. Pastry or ice cream? Spoil yourself: have both. ul. Polna 18/20

ICE POT

Ice Pot finished has long been one of the Insider’s favorite scoop – and they keep getting better. Produced by a true enthusiast, the seasonal flavors and occasionally wacky experiments (mulled wine, apple pie, etc.) never score less than a perfect ten. And if the tastes are a different level, then the service is as well. Hala Gwardii

JEDNOROŻEC

What is it with Mokotów and ice cream? Amid a hugely competitive field, the wide flavor choice, quality ingredients and loving hand of Jednorożec mark them a notch above their immediate competitors. ul. Narbutta 38

NA KOŃCU TĘCZY

Named in honor of the rainbow that once stood in the center of Pl. Zbawiciela, this vibrant spot occasionally likes to push the envelope when it comes to flavors, but it’s the fruity flavors that seem to work the best: the kiwi mascarpone is another level, as is the apple sorbet. Al. Wyzwolenia 15

NITRO LODY

Frozen with liquid nitrogen, just watching the process is enough to make customers feel like they’re watching some NASA sponsored experiment. Smoother than midnight velvet, the result sees super creamy classic tastes jazzed up with sprinkles of Lion bar, Gummi Bears and other such greatness. ul. Zwycięzców 11

PALLONE

Made to Italian recipes reputed to be 160-years old (with some personal magic thrown in to boot), Pallone pride themselves on quality ingredients: chocolate from Belgian and Colombia, citrus fruits from Sicily, and the finest cream and milk you’ll find in Poland. There’s nothing too wacky about the flavor choice but the tastes will punch you out. Wow!!! ul. Brzeska 29/31

QUATTRO SI

This Pruszków-based gelateria raised eyebrows earlier this year after it was ranked 42nd in the latest edition of the Gelato Festival World Rankings. Owned by Peter Bertoti, the parlor is no stranger to accolades, having previously scooped domestic awards for its plum and blueberry flavors. ul. Jasna 4B (Pruszków)

ROSZKI

Although it looks rather budget-minded, Roszki have won hearts for an offer that’s especially

strong on chocolate-based ice creams. The chocolate habanero comes with a fiery twist and a fan club that extends beyond Muranów’s geographic borders – full marks! ul. Andersa 37

STARA LODZIARNIA

Interesting variations such as coconut & blackberry are well received, but it’s the basics that are truly exceptional: no-one does strawberry better! Made outside of Warsaw by the owner’s parents (and to a recipe coined by the family before the war), the scoops here speak of a true labor of love. ul. Francuska 48

ULICA BAŚNIOWA

The choice isn’t just vast, it’s sugar-free thanks to their commitment to using natural stevia instead. Few leave with anything but rave reviews, and their cause is furthered by an equally impressive choice of cakes and tarts. It’s a Żoliborz legend – and rightfully so. Al. Wojska Polskiego 41

VEGESTACJA

Known as the vegan square mile on account of its proliferation of vegan restaurants and cafes, it’s no surprise to find a vegan gelato stop (‘vegelato’) opening in the area. Top marks to sugar-free creations such as the mango lass or raspberry & cardamom. ul. Poznańska 26

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings specialty food BIANCA

Run by Puglia-raised Francesco and his Polish partner Kaja, hit up Bianca for mozzarella that has won the heart of Warsaw. Pairing recipes gleaned from their time in Italy with the best Polish milk they could find, the results have floored the foodie public. fb.com/biancacheese

KOKO & ROY DELI

One of the good things to come from Covid? The creation of this online service. Find high-quality, elevated comfort food including ready prepared meals by British chef Gareth Rowntree. It’s mostly stuff you’ll already know how to cook, the difference is that this reaches a level that’s of scintillating standard: for a taco night to remember order G.’s signature tortillas and banging chicken tinga! kokoandroydeli.com

RUMUŃSKIE SMAK

Specializing in Romanian products, this delicatessen come with a choice of over 600 items. Among these find jams, preserves, cheese, cured meats, confectionary and alcohol – artisan cider included! Bestsellers include spicy Mici sausages. ul.

Puławska 98

russian & ukrainian REST.BACZEWSKICH

Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in. Al. Szucha 17/19

SKAMIEJKA

As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces (album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds), the welcome is second-to-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food is hefty, comfort-driven and ideal for long, wintry nights. ul. Ząbkowska 37

vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

NO PROBLEM

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” No Problem’s menu registers a direct

hit when it comes to health-minded comfort food but there’s a bar scene as well with a range of craft beers served in a buzzy space that’s Berlin in its spirit: rough-hewn walls painted with street art, wobbly wooden furniture and posters advertising upcoming gigs. There’s no longer a shortage of places that have nailed the whole resto-bar concept, but this is the first vegan joint to try and actually pull it off. ul. Bracka 20

TEL AVIV

A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. ul. Poznanska 11

VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

Nothing short of a phenomenon, that they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand. Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade game and a pink surfboard), their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ Order the spicy miso ramen and you too will become a convert. ul Finlandzka 12 a, ul. Kazimierzowska 43 & Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54

VEG DELI

An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that absolutely always hit the spot. Set on leafy Radna street, the summer terrace is a joy. ul. Radna 14

Drink! First Sip VHS Bar Poznańska 7

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A NEW IDOL IS BORN

The casualty list was horrific. Costing the lives of legends such as Koko & Roy, Kieliszki and Zkurczybyk, the lockdown was brutal in its cull. Nonetheless, fears that the area around Poznańska would lose its sense of life have proved ill-founded, and partly that’s thanks to VHS, an 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff, and enjoy them on a pavement terrace that teems with life and laughter once evening strikes.

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Review

SEE YOU IN… THE PAVILION

New pop-up at Raffles Europejski Warsaw sets a new standard in style…

he Raffles Europejski Warsaw have ruffled the sheets once more, this time with a pop-up bar inside an enclosed courtyard hidden from the prying eyes of the outside world. Evoking the atmosphere of an enchanted

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

garden, join Warsaw’s high society in a large-plan oasis flush with trees, shrubs, herbs and flowers – keep your eyes peeled, for it’s not rare to find Head Chef Beñat Alonso tending to these, foraging for ingredients to cook for his guests downstairs.

Championing a quiet sense of luxury, it’s to this background that the Pavilion is set – enclosed in glass and planted on a plank-wood platform, sink back in an armchair while indulging in specially selected appetizers, wines, chilled champagnes and light, floral cocktails that entirely fit the moment. And speaking of moments, when should you plot a visit? Find the Pavilion open from 6 p.m. each Friday or Saturday (live guitarist on Fri and DJ on Sat!), or swoop by for afternoon tea on Sunday from 3 p.m. Choosing the latter, you’ll be enjoying an elegant dessert buffet played out to the sounds of a harpist and the soothing clink of champagne flutes – reservations required.

The Pavilion ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Warsaw), raffles.com/warsaw

Review

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA OPPOSITE PAGE BY DARYA BUBEN

INTO THE BEYOND

ounded by a pair of photographers long before there was anywhere else in the area to get a decent cup of Joe, Roślina have grown to become something of a saber-rattling legend of Bielany – a place whose acknowledgment of the natural world is pushed home not just via their generous collection of droopy succulents that hang from the pipework, but also a plant-based menu of beyond burgers and homemade cakes. Set in the heart of Stare Bielany – an attractive, inter-war development not dissimilar to the leafier parts of Saska and Żoliborz – there’s something about Roślina that instantly engages. That’s as much down to the vibe as anything else; expanding down to the cellar, it’s a place whose shoestring budget has been used to maximum effect – though comprising of little more than bare concrete floors, Tolix seats, white-painted walls and potted greenery, it feels artsy and social and powerfully creative. Cool as this is, it’s to the garden you must head – lit by strings of overhead bulbs, and occupying a small triangular wedge of land, it’s a magical little haven in which time slows to a crawl. Glory inside it with local craft beers, single origin specialty coffee, an alternative cola or this season’s summer staple – the tonic espresso. Roślina ul. Schroegera 80

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Review

ntered via a gateway constructed from giant bricks of Lego, there can be few places that better capture the essence of summer drinking. Forming a cornerstone of the remarkably wacky Lunapark complex, the energy is contagious: fringed by a set of pink-sprayed cabins housing bars and DJ decks, visit at the weekend to jiggle in the open air with other party-loving souls. Under the watchful eye of an XL-sized Lego figure (last seen busting a Strajk Kobiet lightning bolt across his face), you’ll be necking back mojitos and zany quick-fix cocktails whilst involving

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

yourself in evenings dedicated to the absurd: summer Halloween parties, or evenings dedicated to the cheesy hits we’re too embarrassed to admit liking. Often bolstered by foggy bursts of smoke, it’s a place where you lose yourself in hedonism. Finishing at the first crack of light, this weekend dance spot is all about fun – free from snobbery and inhibitions, you come here to go wild and wave your hands in the air. Hocki Klocki w Lunaparku Wał Miedzeszyński 407 (Lunapark)

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF HOCKI KLOCKI

FAIRGROUND ATTRACTION

Review THE HIGH LIFE

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF THE ROOF

erched on the 21st floor of one of Wola’s new gleaming towers, The Roof allows visitors to glimpse stars in their eyes – offering enthralling views of the city down below, you’ll be mixing with an A-list clientele that gathers to enjoy a backdrop that’s luxurious, elegant and yet tastefully restrained. Sleek furnishings, well-deployed plants and spherical lights cast a cool look that acts in concert with a setting that feels fantastically affluent – but as beautiful as the interior is, it’s the outdoor deck that’s easily the biggest draw. Compounding the sophistication, foxtrot through a cocktail list with a cool Warsaw twist. Anything else you need to know? Dress to kill. The Roof Rondo Daszyńskiego 2 (The HUB)

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MAKE MINE A PINT(A) Pinta’s Warsaw flagship opens to acclaim…

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Review

Pinta Warszawa ul. Chmielna 7/9, fb.com/pintawarszawa WHO ARE THEY? Behold, the founding fathers of the country’s craft beer movement! When they released Atak Chmielu in 2011, it became Poland’s first commercially available American IPA and lit the touchpaper for the country’s brew-olution. Three years later, Pinta were at it again, this time with another first – by cooperating with the Irish-based O’Hara’s, they became the first Poles to collaborate internationally with another brewery. In all, they’re credited with producing 200 beers brewed in 60 or so styles. Previously operating as a contract brewery, in recent years their foothold on the Polish market has been strengthened by the opening of their own bricks-and-mortar brewery (2019) and the launch of their pub in Wrocław (2018). Delayed several months by the stopstart lockdowns, their flagship Warsaw bar finally opened at the beginning of this summer. THE PLACE Forget that grubby stretch of Chmielna filled with trash and bubble tea stops, find Pinta on that cool little strip that runs parallel to the side. Set over two glass-fronted floors, it’s in the very same spot once occupied by the short-lived Mikkeller pub. In truth, not much has changed from its previous incarnation: light, bright and almost Scandi in its style, the modernity of the look is exacerbated by the bare concrete touches, daffodil-colored seats and stray bits of shipping containers dotted around. The apparent sparsity works well – a classic case of less is more, in Pinta the punchline is given over to the beer.

ON TAP Of the twenty taps, around half showcase Pinta’s own brews. Of these, the classics are prevalent – for instance the pioneering Atak Chmielu, the smooth and light Oto Mata rice IPA, and the tropical new wave Kwas XY. But further to these core products, enjoy a range of seasonal or one-off brews and collaborations. Away from Pinta’s portfolio, then you’re looking at beers from other A-Class breweries such as Artezan and Trzech Kumpli. There are also several bottled goodies lurking in the fridge, but good luck getting a look at them without X-Ray vision. Typical of Warsaw, find them hidden way below eye-level behind the bar. THE OTHER BITS A growing number of craft

beer bars are claiming to serve what they call ‘craft food’. Unlike many though, Pinta have actually earned the right to say that via a menu that includes cod bits in Bavarian beer batter, glazed BBQ ribs, pulled pork burgers and roast beef sandwiches with parsley sauce. All eat well, and even more so if you respect the pairing tips given on the card. VERDICT Accessible price points, a wellschooled staff, and a cracking atmosphere all serve to make Pinta a natural born winner – and it says much for the underlying quality that it’s been embraced by more than just the usual crowd of bearded beer dorks. Young and fun, there’s a spirit here that feels truly reflective of modern Warsaw’s after-dark scene. We love it and you will as well.

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Drink! listings after work classics THE ALCHEMIST

Poland’s still getting used to the idea of ‘a pint after work’, but in The Alchemist the idea of a post-office drink just seems so right. From the off, it’s a place that screams, “off with the tie, there’s drinks to be had!” Back under new ownership, the terrace remains the place to be seen. Pl. Piłsudskiego 3

FRANCUSKA 30

The brollies that dangle teasingly over the terrace are one of Saska’s most photographed sights, but this café earns its visitors by providing ace coffee brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, as well as a range of French crepes, above-average cocktails and a healthy smattering of craft beer. Cool, minimal and reassuringly artistic, it’s a café-bar that feels central to the social function of Saska. ul. Francuska 30

WOZOWNIA

Wozownia brings together a good-looking crowd inside a 200-year-old carriage house whose competent cocktails and cheapy Prosecco keep it busy. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Pl.

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clubbing LUZTRO

Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! Al.

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RITUAL

Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. ul.

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SEN

Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wall-to-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. ul. Wioślarska 6

SMOLNA

Helping to fan the ‘sense of secret’, the no-cellphone policy (you cover the camera with a sticker) ensures a zero amount of berks recording the shenanigans that await. Allow the names they’ve pulled do the talking – past events include sets

by Pete Tong, Laurent Garnier and Hercules & Love Affair. If those names mean nothing then it’s not your place. ul. Smolna 38

SYRENI ŚPIEW KONESER

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Almost insane in the scale of its ambition, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial add-ons. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. The very definition of debauched decadence, the brilliance is underlined by flawless cocktails and the best-looking crowd in the country. Pl. Konesera 4

SPATIF

Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control Al.

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cocktails AURA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine.

Drink! listings Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons. ul.

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BAR WIECZORNY

Fixed by some of the biggest names in Polish cocktail culture, the cocktails are a serious biz here and neatly complimented by a beautiful garden set with crates and little lights dangling from the trees. Mokotów doesn’t have the best reputation for nightlife, but in Wieczorny the area has a star of some legend. ul. Wiśniowa 46

EL KOKTEL

from the balcony on top. Accessed via a glorious spiral staircase, it’s from here you gaze down on the impeccable Saska crowd that gathers below to sip sparkly wines, house lemonades and author’s cocktails. ul. Francuska 2 Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup. ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

Kruczkowskiego

FLAMING BISTRO

NOLA

With its perfect white colors, the glass-fronted oblong form of this pearl of interwar modernism has an elegant sophistication to it that’s ravishing to look at. But it becomes even more so out the back. It’s here you’ll find a garden that’s been in-filled with well-spaced wooden decks hiding amid the vegetation and plant life. A garden in the truest sense of the word, the best view is

Occupying the kind of charismatic gatehouse you’d T R C read about in Dickens, position P T M yourself in front of the upstairs C W ≈ for a celebratory cigar and fireplace W C ≈ a glass ofC something tall and lovely: C ≈ the cocktails are in a class of their T ≈ ownP and E specifically customized for ≈ S theL season. Spooling, silent Bond films, regular burlesque shows and P B B random decorative monkey figures add an unexpected ‘element of weird’. ul. Wąski Dunaj 20 HE MOST

EFRESHINGLY LACES

MR. OH

A semi-secret world for those In The Know, find Mr. Oh in one of the Harry Potter towers that prop up Poniatowski Bridge. Dark, decadent and redolent of an after-hours members club, this latest concept from Enio Chłapowski-Myjak (formerly of 6 Cocktails) is firmly on its way to becoming the coolest address in town. Late nights, Asian-themed cocktails and an A-list crowd await. Al. 3 Maja / ul.

HISKY

HAMPAGNE

OCKTAILS &

USINE

ASTINGS

RIVATE

OCATION

ODWALE

VENTS

HOOTS

AR AND

OOKS

Wąski Dunaj 20, 00-256 Warsaw Tel.: +48 225.599.199

REGINABAR

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next V O L i n Y a P door. The menu rocks, but find it www.barandbooks.pl augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. ul. Koszykowa 1 n

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Located on the former site of the legendary Koko & Roy, NOLA pay tribute to New Orleans via an interior filled with pics of soul legends, trumpets and other hip ephemera. Owned by the same team behind the cult Back Room Bar, particular attention has been handed to a cocktail list that takes the area in a new direction. Full report coming soon! ul. Wilcza 43

IVILIZED

EETTM

IGARS &

INE &

LORETA

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9

PODWALE BAR & BOOKS

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WARSZAWA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found in a saucer-shaped building that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. It’s nothing less than super cool. ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B

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Drink! listings craft beer CRAFT BEER MURANÓW

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers. ul. Andersa 23

CUDA NA KIJU

Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid, socialist era arcades. Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls, queue inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. Watching the sunset while looking out towards the city’s iconic palm tree installations is a pure Warsaw moment. ul. Nowy Świat

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CZEŚĆ

It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage)

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

DRUGIE DNO

To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station. Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. ul. Nowogrodzka 4

HOPITO

Appealing to a far younger, more party-oriented crowd than the area’s other craft joints, find a sloshed audience weaving around a neon lit room with black and white doodles by some of Poland’s biggest street artists. The beer offer is highly commendable, and even includes a beer slushy machine! Note, also, the presence of this year’s must-have accessory. A wood-fired pizza oven imported from Naples. ul. Żurawia

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JABEERWOCKY

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the

building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul. Nowogrodzka 25

RAJ PIWOSZA

For those living on the city’s right side, Raj Piwosza became a legend of the lockdown – an off-license and general lifeline selling an emphatic choice of craft beers, niche wines and other artisanal liquid somethings. Perhaps driven by the discovery of the area’s thirst for their offerings, they’ve gone another step by launching a bar with a similarly exhaustive selection of drinkies. Set in a newish residential development on the frontline of Grochów, Gocław, Saska Kępa, it’s a sure bet to become a neighborhood essential. ul. Bora-Komorowskiego 56A

SAME KRAFTY

Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. ul. Nowomiejska 10

dive bars MIEJSCE CHWILA

Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a

Drink! listings decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers. Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. ul. Żurawia 47

NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and

sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos. Find them

through the passageway at Nowy Świat 26.

OFFSIDE

Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan,

it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. ul. Brzeska 16

PRASKA

For Praga at its craziest and most creative, Praska doesn’t disappoint. Beers from Brooklyn Brewery keep the open-minded crowd lubricated with other amusements arriving in the form of regular DJs and a quite extraordinary interior: Christmas lights, giant, toy tigers, heaps of plants and other scrapyard finds dominate what rates as our weirdest discovery of 2019. ul. Brzeska 23

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Drink! listings W OPARACH ABSURDU

Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. ul. Ząbkowska 6

ULUBIONA

Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months. Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. ul. Nowy Świat 27

late night legends BAR PACYFIK

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. ul. Hoża 61

BAR STUDIO

The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains,

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Pl. Defilad 1

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. ul. Poznańska 12

FOTON

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Looking good with a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed, think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad either with Latin American street bites and a dynamic cocktail list involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. Most of all though, it’s the atmosphere you return for. ul. Wilcza 9A

GRAM

Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number

of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... ul. Marszałkows-

ka 45/49

KLUBOKAWIARNIA TOWARZYSKA

Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film. Craft beers and a smoking zone earn bonus points. ul. Zwycięzców 49

live entertainment HYDROZAGADKA / CHMURY

Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the low-ceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

PARDON TO TU

After a cpl of years of flirting with temporary accommodation, PTT finally returned in full a couple of years back, positioning themselves inside a corner of the PWC office building just south of Zbawiciela. But despite the upgrade in

Drink! listings surrounds, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of old thanks to flexi hours, a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city! Al. Armii

Ludowej 14

WOREK KOŚCI

H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. ul. Bagatela 10

specialty coffee ASFALT

The combination of vinyl and coffee ain’t nothing new, but at Asfalt you feel that the very heart of the concept has been completely remastered. Take stock of your purchases over alt. coffees served inside mugs crafted by the nearby Fenek ceramic studio. ul. Tamka 37

COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic

style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Wilcza 42

COFFEEDESK PRÓŹNA

Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored pre-war Próżna. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops. ul. Próźna 7

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul.

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DOBRA MATERIA

The micro scene that’s emerged on Nowolipki can no longer be ignored, and props go to the latest venture to open up on there. Co-owned by an architect, the pared-down design works beautifully – curl up on a window ledge seat to sip on specialty coffee while gazing on a cooling interior of black and white colors and naked brick walls. ul.

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FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining

cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a halfmad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul.

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FILTRY DOBRA KAWA

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends. ul. Niemcewicza 3

FORUM

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

HAŁAS VINYL + COFFEE

Hałas is that brilliant little secret that every neighborhood deserves: a cool little café snuck down a leafy residential street – amid the vinyl albums for sale, find a crew of staunch regulars arriving for weird non-alc. beers and specialty coffee brewed by a super friendly team inside an attractive basement

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Drink! listings comprised of crisp white walls and retro fittings. You want summer to return just to be able to sit on their outdoor bench and wallow in the shade. ul. Elsterska 10

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA

Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. ul. Fabryczna 28/30

RELAKS

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul. Puławska 48

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. ul. Wilcza 17

STOR

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul. Tamka 33

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

wine bars ALE WINO

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. ul. Mokotowska 48

BUBBLES

Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance. A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Damn right there’s a lot to like at Bubbles, but there’s even more to love. Pl.

Piłsudskiego 9

CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE

Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu, too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab. ul.

Koszykowa 49A

DYLETANCI

The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular

strength, as too are Polish wines. ul.

Rozbrat 44

LA BUVETTE

La Buvette sits like a hidden gem, nestled on a charming street that radiates off Stara Ochota’s Pl. Narutowicza – tree-lined and looking like a cloned version of a picturesque arrondissement of Paris, it’s a pleasure to sit on the terrace. And if you’ve got a tiny dog, you’ll fit right in! Come evening, pick through boards of gourmet cheese whilst sipping on a curated choice of French wines picked by co-owner Harold, a native of Strasbourg. ul.

Mochnackiego 4/43

RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ

Formerly a restaurant serving pre-war cuisine, Rausz na Wilczej used the pandemic to reposition themselves as a wine store / bar, building on their previous reputation for sourcing quirky labels you wouldn’t have necessarily heard of before. “In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” In addition to their Spanish, Italian and French collections, find excellent wines from less familiar destinations: Slovenia, Czech, Austria and Georgia. ul. Wilcza 27

WINNICE MOŁDAWII

Set in a 1920s villa that miraculously survived the war, you’ll be visiting for a family-run business specializing in Moldovan, Georgian and Romanian wines. Covering both classics and the latest trends, it’s a portfolio that’s broad in its style and aching to be discovered inside a converted garage attached to the house. Wallow in the suburban serenity of their leafy garden: doing so, you’ll come close to drowning in bliss and authentic hospitality. ul. Czarnieckiego 63A

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

A CHEMICAL WORLD

Like something from Harry Potter, the Pharmacy Museum promises a treat of treasures…

hough marked by a quirky sign portraying a mermaid holding a snake, it’s easy to miss this museum – and despite its location on one of Old Town’s busiest streets, many do. Do so yourself, and you’ll be overlooking a fine little secret that delivers more than you might expect.

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Antonina Leśniewska Museum of Pharmacy Piwna 31/33, muzeumfarmacji.muzeumwarszawy.pl/en/

Opened on January 26th, 1985, and operating under the umbrella of the Museum of Warsaw since 2002, the museum provides a complete and extensive overview of the pharmaceutical history of the city. Presenting 2,500 antiquities, exhibits include inter-war lab equipment, 19th century crystal and porcelain jars, cobalt cylinders for the storage of cognacs and aromatic waters, pill jars, mortars and percolators. With all the bottled potions knocking around, it’s not too far-fetched to imagine yourself in Dumbledore’s workshop. Leaving no stone unturned, you’ll also learn the life story of the museum’s patron, Antonina Leśniewska. Born in Warsaw in 1866, she opened what was reputed to be the world’s first female-run pharmacy in St. Petersburg before returning to Warsaw and operating a similar project in Warsaw on Marszałkowska 72.

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

Watch Out For… (clockwise from top left) A glass urn containing a melted container from the Polish General Pharmaceutical Society on Długa 16 – it was recovered from the ruins of the building after the Warsaw Uprising. The most prized artefact of the lot? That’s a 16th century botanical atlas by Simon Syrnius. Uranium pharmaceutical jars that glow in the dark. A hidden cabinet filled with narcotics – kept under lock and key, it’s opened on special request! A snappy-looking 19th century alligator cork press for sizing container seals.

This month, the Insider’s cycling guru journeys to the solemn site of the Palmiry executions…

BIKE TOUR: PALMIRY WORDS AND PHOTOGRAPHS BY MICHAŁ PAKULNIEWICZ

Michał Pakulniewicz is an analyst/researcher by profession, but a tour guide at heart. A fan of Warsaw’s interwar modernist architecture, and proud of the city’s World War II history, he enjoys long walks across the city in search of its glories and novelties. An ardent cyclist, join him to get the best out of Warsaw (and beyond!)..

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Growing up in Poland, and in Warsaw in particular, one can’t avoid hearing stories of the war – whether they be tales of German terror or Polish bravery. Being raised in such an environment makes one historically conscious, but at the same time immune to the sheer numbers of horrors inflicted – indeed, true is the quote (often attributed to Stalin, but in fact spoken by the German writer Erich Maria Remarque) that goes, “One death is a tragedy, a million is a statistic”. At Palmiry you deal not with statistics but stories of individual suffering. Over 2,000 graves have been marked with crosses or matzevahs, and many of these bear the victim’s name and profession: student; engineer; tailor; professor; cobbler… The executions here were to be kept secret and the mass murder sites were masked with planted trees and moss. In fact, the site was only

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

discovered thanks to a local forester and residents who marked the site. The Palmiry memorial and cemetery were erected in 1948 with the burial ground located on a rectangular plan with rows of homogenous graves in the form of crosses and matzevahs. Graves of notable victims (such as Rataj and Kusociński) are original in form and stand out from the remaining graves. The local museum includes biographies of selected victims, photographs and memorabilia relating to their lives, but also all evidence of the crimes committed here. The cemetery is part of a wider educational trail called Wokół Palmir (Around Palmiry), which takes up 1.7 km of Kampinos Forest. With its numerous trails and swamps, it’s definitely a breath of fresh air – literally and figuratively – after the solemnity of the memorial site.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

THE DESTINATION

GETTING THERE > The easiest way to get to Palmiry is by using Młociny Metro as your start point. Depending on the route chosen from there it’ll be a journey of either 17 km or 22 km. Those hungry to add even more kilometers can do so by getting a head start and cycling up to the metro. > From the subway station turn onto ul. Nocznickiego before going right down ul. Wólczyńska – follow that until you turn into Arkuszowa. Ride along the street until the town of Mościska and street turn into ul. 3 Maja - follow until Truskaw. Once in Truskaw, we turn right into Kampinos Forest at ul. Skibińskiego near the monument to the AK Kampinos battlegroup. WARNING: The first kilometer or so is full of potholes. > Alternatively, ride on ul. 3 Maja and turn right in Izabelin into ul. Sierakowska. When you reach Sieraków, take ul. Gen. Abrahama on the left and follow it until it takes you into the forest and morphs into a forest trail. Follow the trail and you’ll reach the Droga Palmirska running from Truskaw. > Palmiry Cemetery can also be reached from the north via the village of Palmiry. Of the routes presented, it’s by far the best quality and offers an asphalt road running through Kampinos. In order to reach the village one must hit the Wisłostrada expressway from the Młociny subway station. Just follow it alongside the E77 road northwards. There is no bike route alongside the road so be prepared to ride on pavements or side trails and side roads and be ready to be inhaling plenty of exhaust fumes. From here, pass Dziekanów and turn left at the intersection with the Wittchen Outlet and onto ul. J. Kusocińskiego. From there, just carry on straight. > In the summer months bus No. 800 runs on weekends from the Młociny Metro and adjoining bus station right to the Palmiry Museum. Also from Młociny, bus No. 750 heads to the village Palmiry which is just 7 km by bike from our destination.

DID YOU KNOW?

The site of the cemetery was once a Polish Army ammunition depot before World War II. During the September Campaign of 1939 the depot was supplied the defenders of Warsaw and Modlin with weapons. As the Germans neared, the complex was blown up – the remains can be seen today near the cemetery. The executions carried out in Palmiry were mostly part of the AB Aktion which targeted the Polish elites. Among those killed were Maciej Rataj, the speaker of the Polish Sejm, and Janusz Kusociński, a renowned long distance runner most famous for winning the 10km race at the 1932 Los Angeles Olympics.

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PHOTOGRAPHS SHUTTERSTOCK

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

TESTING THE WATERS

As temperatures rise (and rise), check the fountains and water features that’ll allow you to keep cool…

Elektrownia Powiśle Dobra 42

The epitome of the new livework-play urban model, this restored power plant is at its most beautiful in summer when the plaza outside buzzes with activity: but it ain’t just about the al fresco cinema or restaurant terrace scene, but also the multimedia fountain outside the entrance. Run through it during time, or at night gather to just take joy in its colors.

Grzybowski Pl. Grzybowski

Penned in by swanky towers, revamped tenements, socialist blocks and lively cafes, no square in Warsaw offers such a complex clash of sights and sounds. And then, at its ground zero, a shiny plaza filled with blooming plants, granite slabs and tinkling water features slashed with wooden walkways.

Mermaid Rynek Starego Miasta

You can’t look ten-meters without catching sight of the city’s defining mascot: the mermaid. Also honored with a trio of statues, find the most high profile of these in the center of the Rynek – a replica of a statue that dates from 1855, find it surrounded by an immaculate circle of trickling water that captures the reflection of the Old Town’s tenements to stunning effect.

Metropolitan Pl. Piłsudskiego 1

Seek out one of Warsaw’s most dynamic fountains in the middle of Sir Norman Foster’s donut-shaped Metropolitan building. Topping out at a height of 15 meters, it’s widely recognized as one of the first ‘intelligent’ fountains found in the country. Costing over half a million złoty, the Canadian-designed system responsively reacts to wind conditions to ensure no watery disasters.

Multimedia Fountain Park Skwer 1 Dywizji Pancernej

Attracting a million people per year, Warsaw’s Multimedia Fountain Park comes equipped with 367 nozzles capable of firing out 30,000 liters of water per minute. Covering an area of 2,850 sq/m, and built with the capacity to display 16 million colors, the frequent weekend shows are breathtaking and see carefully coordinated water displays paired with stunning audio and visual presentations. You’re not allowed to enter the waters, but do feel free to sit up on the perimeter to work on the tan.

Ogród Krasińskich

Despite the manicured elegance of Krasińskich, this park is surprisingly user-friendly

– having sunned yourself on the billiard green lawns, then dance through a half-shaded ‘water square’ fitted with 35 water-spouting nozzles.

Warsaw Spire Pl. Europejski

Counted as one of Warsaw’s most insta-friendly squares, it’s Plac Europejski’s I Love Warsaw sign that gets the most attention, but its water features aren’t to be ignore. Hemmed in by greenery, curling pathways and pristine street furniture, find an array of synchronized water jets combining to provide a display that looks utterly hypnotic once darkness slides in. With the Spire tower glimmering above, it’s really quite a sight.

Wisła Boulevards Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie

Alrighty, so you know the multimedia fountains, and you’ll probably know the mermaid at the mouth of Świętokrzyski Bridge – modeled on a poetess fatally shot on the first day of the 1944 Uprising, the fountain at the feet of her likeness is one of area’s iconic sites. But there’s more – close by, walk through the water jets installed in the paving slabs, or head further north to cool down courtesy of water-spouting whale statues.

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A GALLIC AFFAIR

Organized by Hala Gwardii’s operator CBR Events, July saw Bastille Weekend celebrated in style at the cult Warsaw market…

he brainchild of Robert Baj, the French-Polish president of CBR Events, Hala Gwardii again hosted a French Weekend in July to celebrate Bastille Day. Attended by the French Ambassador, Mr. Frédéric Billet, the event – the fourth of its kind – saw guests enjoy a variety of stands serving frog legs, snails, oysters, ripened cheese, baguettes, fine wines and other French specialties. Featuring performances by French singer Chris Schittulli and the French-Polish band the Semaphores, the event also saw an exhibition prepared by the Warsaw-based French photographer Anne Sophie Nirval.

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE

The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a

lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

Established in 1994, The Trilingual

www.wmf.edu.pl

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18.12.2018 12:32

School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

& Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6 years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE The English Playhouse functions

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in

Admissions open for Early Years, Primary, Secondary and IB

Contact our Admissions Team for a tour or a personalised Virtual Discovery Meeting

admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 www.thebritishschool.pl

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728

939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most

prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul. Ledóchowskiej 2,

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact: admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

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community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692

411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese,

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036

637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722

305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel.

787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul.

Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

shopping accessories EYEBAR

At Eyebar the expert team meets needs through their perfect eyebrow care and makeup products. If you dream about having the perfect brows, their sets are available from Eyebar salons or online at our website. eyebar.pl

GLAMSTORE

Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colors you could ask for. ul.

Narbutta 83 (entry from ul. Łowicka)

LEKKO

Lekko offer four specialized oils that are strong but gentle and sharpen the senses. Using CBD extracts, they strongly focus on concepts

of self-care and wellbeing. made from the highest quality crops and sourced from farms run in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture, all products are approved by verified labs. lekko.com

MANDEL

Valuing traditional craftsmanship and the finest materials, Mandel’s mission is to add ‘a classy touch to every story’. This they do with clothing suited to all occasions and every personality. ul. Nowogrodzka 18A, mandel-store.com

fashion MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE

Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

warsawinsider.pl

As the calendar flips to August, Designer Outlet Warszawa present your wardrobe essentials for the most important month of all…

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

PHOTOGRAPHER: PIOTR NAREWSKI STYLIST: AGATA KLEPACKA

THE ESSENCE OF SUMMER

f the meaning of life is a complex and unfathomable question, then the meaning of August is a little less so – what’s it all about? That’s right, holidays! With the mercury rising, and our thoughts on beaches, bars and long starry nights, allow our fashion team to transform you from hot to even hotter – from top to bottom, we bring you EVERYTHING that you might need to become an August head-turner.

Piaseczno | Puławska 42E designeroutletwarszawa.pl

SHOP THE LOOK FROM BEACH TO BAR (Left)

When it comes to summer, every girl needs an out-sized straw hat as part of their life – pair it with a petit lemon-colored handbag and a pair of stylish shoes that make a statement. Twinset bag (zł. 1,161 now zł. 466.80), Twinset shoes (zł. 727 now zł. 292.80), Max & Co hat/ Made in M (zł. 379 now zł. 161.40)

SUMMER STUNNER (Right top)

Show some skin with a loose fitting tunic and revealing skirt and add a sense of fun with eye-catching boots. And remember, the bag makes the girl! Manila Grace tunic (zł. 826 now zł. 500), Manila Grace skirt (zł. 677 now zł. 410), Liu Jo bag (zł. 599 now zł. 387), Kazar green bag (zł. 549 now PLN 384), Pinko boots (zł. 2,155 now zł. 990), Versace glasses / Mikulscy optyk (zł. 909 now zł. 639).

THE FINAL TOUCH (Right bottom)

It’s the little things that matter – before exiting the door, you’ll need the right cosmetics and adornments… Michael Kors cosmetic set / The Cosmetics Company Store (zł. 250 now zł. 175), Swarovski 3piece brooches (zł. 749 now zł. 524). * The prices listed are for informational purposes only and do not constitute a commercial offer within the meaning of Article 66, Paragraph 1 of the Civil Code.

warsawinsider.pl

CELEBRATING BILIŃSKA-BOHDANOWICZ

Self-Portrait, National Museum in Kraków

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF NATIONAL MUSEUM OF WARSAW, EXCPET THIS PAGE COURTESY OF NATIONAL MUSEUM IN KRAKOW

The National Museum in Warsaw looks back on the lifeworks of Anna Bilińska-Bohdanowicz…

Clockwise from below: Study of a Woman (historical title Negress), 1884, oil on canvas; Male Semi-Nude, 1885, oil and gouache on canvas; Unter den Linden Street in Berlin, 1890, oil on canvas

egarded as the first female Polish artist to gain international recognition, Anna Bilińska-Bohdanowicz (1854–1893) saw her works presented at the most important European exhibitions during her brief but extraordinary life. Even today, her paintings continue to arouse great fascination among academics and critics, however, although her works have become part of the canon of Polish art never before has her oeuvre and life story been thoroughly analyzed. Following her artistic career from its very beginnings, this exhibition charts her rise:

from her early artistic forays in Warsaw, to her studies at the Académie Julian in Paris, and right the way through to her international breakthrough. As part of this exploration of her life, challenging topics are broached such as her self-awareness and her thoughts on the artist’s role in the world – something that manifested itself in the representation of her own image in self-portraits. Overcoming financial and personal problems along the path to professional acclaim, neither are viewers left in any doubt as to the limitations that faced women in the 19th century world of art.

The Artist. Anna Bilińska 1854–1893 When: ongoing until October 10th Where: Al. Jerozolimskie 3 (National Museum in Warsaw) Further info: mnw.art.pl

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

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museums CAR MUSEUM

Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird, Russian-made Volgas, Wałęsa’s bullet-proof Volvo, a ZIS 110 Cabriolet once used to carry Yuri Gagarin, and Gierek’s Cadillac Fleetwood. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy)

Marie SkłodowskaCurie Museum

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

A visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. And those assuming an ethnographic museums lack punch are in for a surprise: exhibitions are brilliant in their scope, wit and quirkiness and have included explorations of the Disco Polo genre, Hungarian erotica, iconic streetwear, etc.ul. Kredytowa

1, ethnomuseum.pl

THE HERITAGE INTERPRETATION CENTER

Zachęta National Art Gallery

This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13,

mhw.pl

JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE

Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Copernicus Science Centre

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

MUSEUM OF DOLL HOUSES, GAMES & TOYS

Formerly found inside PKiN, this beautiful treasure features spectacularly crafted doll houses that provide

a stunning ‘freeze frame’ into the past. Now, the collection has been boosted by the addition of toys and games, many of which are from the PRL era. ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4

MUSEUM OF PRAGA

The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

PALMIRY NATIONAL MEMORIAL MUSEUM

An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

PAWIAK

What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

The Polish Vodka Museum features five thematic rooms that do a slick and entertaining job of documenting the national tipple. Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged bottles and an interactive room in which visitors learn can test their knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on some trippy goggles to experience the effects of being

completely sloshed. Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

THE ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW

Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamekkrolewski.pl

TRAIN MUSEUM

Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

experiences COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20

FOTOPLASTIKON

Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51,

fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

PARK MINIATUR

Ghosting around the city, the spectacular miniature park now has a new home! Find magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures. ul. Marszał-

kowska 105

galleries CENTER OF CONTEMPORARY ART (CSW) Though their message stands to get a little more conservative with the recent appointment of a new director, its likely this will remain one of the leading gallery spaces in Poland – and even if not, just creeping around the corridors of this baroque castle is a thrill in itself. ul. Jazdów 2, u-jazdowski.pl

DOM SPOTKAŃ Z HISTORIĄ

The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul.

Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

MUSEUM ON THE VISTULA

Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has seen a number of edgy contemporary exhibitions including, most recently, one dedicated to the works of Miriam Cahn. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl

ZACHĘTA GALLERY

Consistently challenging our perception of “what art is”, the Zachęta’s reputation precedes itself: a bastion of contemporary art, its ever-changing lineup of exhibitions have presented a range of Polish and international artists. Always on-edge, this is arguably the most famous gallery in the country. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

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Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

4 9 km

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

8 2

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

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WALLS & PEACE

You’ve seen it that’s for sure, but what’s the story behind the strange mosaic slapped on the side of EMPiK?

Warsaw Insider | AUGUST 2021

reviously decried as being an outdated, ugly and bygone reminder of the city’s Communist period, the capital’s post-war mosaics have enjoyed a minor rehabilitation of sorts. Even so, scores have been lost to ill-thought renovations while others have simply vanished under billboards, graffiti or thick sheets of grime. One you probably won’t miss, though, can be found adorning the side of the EMPiK building (Jerzolimskie 28). Originally set aside for a mosaic honoring the city’s reconstruction (the blueprints envisaged a group of builders gathered around a worker holding a plan aloft), a last minute change of heart saw authorities instead commission Władysław Zych to fill the space with a work celebrating an attack by war-

time saboteurs. Famed for his work with glass and ceramics, Zych died before the execution of his project, and the piece was instead installed under the supervision of his wife, Wanda, by Jędrzej Krysiński. Depicting two males and a female holding a grenade, a rifle and a pistol, the mosaic was added in 1964 to the façade of a building constructed on the site of a locale called Café Club. Reserved exclusively for Germans during the occupation, Polish saboteurs from the Communist People’s Guard attacked the hangout in revenge for the murder of 50 political activists in Pawiak Prison. Carried out on October 24th, 1942, the hit-and-run action saw grenades hurled through a window: as a result, 30 Germans were injured. A year later, a similar attack was conducted by a group led by Lech Kobyliński. This time, German casualties were even smaller: just four wounded. Roundly considered something of an embarrassing failure, the attacks were nonetheless later lionized in the post-war years by a Communist regime that sought to overlook the actions of Poland’s Home Army and instead spotlight the limited accomplishments of the nation’s Communist resistance. Curiously, Kobyliński claims to have coincidentally met one of the German soldiers sat inside the café at a scientific conference held a couple of decades later. Having revealed his role in the attack to the German, Kobyliński reported that the two shook hands, buried the hatchet and got drunk together.

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BACK STORY

Warsaw Insider August 2021 #300

Articles inside

Everything you need to do in August – and where

Remembering the Warsaw Uprising