Warsaw Insider February 2022 #306

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

#306 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

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FEBRUARY 2022 Features:

Also...

The Warsaw Hotels That Changed History! – p. 22 Valentine’s special: Drinks For Two – p. 55

1930s Warsaw – In Color!

– p. 16 Interview: Insta-legend Mustache Lens – p. 8

Contents February 2022

Reviews: EAT!

Amun Kebab – p. 35 DOMO BAKE – p. 38 Paczki – p. 40 Japanese Roundup – p. 42 La Vegana – p. 45

DRINK!

Valentine's Day Drinks For Two – p. 55

DISCOVER Sauna Wisła – p. 67 Exhibit: Nikifor at the Ethnographic Museum – p. 68

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, COVER PHOTO BY MATEUSZ WĄS

Exhibit: Unseen at the Museum of Warsaw – p. 69

WHEN IT’S ENCASED IN ICE and coughing with smog, there can’t be many harder jobs than trying to sell Warsaw during those bleak weeks of February. But from a visual standpoint, it’s not a complete catastrophe: in this winter murk, the city takes on an intriguing Gotham-esque look and it’s this atmosphere that’s so powerfully captured by this month’s cover photographer, the inimitable Mustache Lens. And he’s not the only photographer to be spotlighted in this issue. Known as one of the country’s best colorizers of historic images, we’ve also taken the chance to meet up with Mariusz Zając to discuss his work. Elsewhere, we’ve uncovered the secret histories of Warsaw’s hotels, explored the city’s Japanese food scene, overdosed on donuts and made your Valentine’s Day easier by investigating the most romantic bars to be found in Warsaw – yep, it’s not been a bad issue to work on. Hope you enjoy it, and see ya’ next time…

Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

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In brief

CITY

Under The Bridge For an exhibition with a difference, this winter get lurking under Świętokrzyski Bridge…

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF UM.WARSZAWA

H

aving already attained nationwide fame after her official Christmas poster for Warsaw went viral, City Hall’s resident illustrator has been handed her own exhibition – on the support pillars running underneath Świętokrzyski Bridge.

Astonishingly, this is the least unusual aspect of the exhibition. Only visible at night, the works of graphic artist Aleksandra Jasionowska have been presented in the form of projected light illuminations. Opting to present her works outdoors due to the prevailing virus, a spokesman for City Hall said the project was part of a wider plan to encourage citizens – and in particular women – to visit the boulevards running along the riverfront.

“After dark, we’re encouraging people to visit the boulevards, admire some art and look forward to Spring with a new sense of hope,” said Jan Piotrowski. “For years, we have been urging people to visit the riverside in the winter, as during this period the river is charming as always but also calmer and quieter. And because it acts as a natural air corridor, the air is always the cleanest around here.”

Beyond this ‘gallery of light’, Jasionowska’s work can also be viewed at the General Patton Boulevard and the Kamień Educational Pavilion close to Praski Park.

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In brief • Architecture

Best Western Subject to a major ongoing reconstruction process, Warsaw’s western train station, Zachodnia, opened two new platforms in December and January marking the end of the first phase of work. Looking positively space age, the station PLN 2 billion overhaul will now enter the next stage of development with works set to conclude next year. “Zachodnia will provide an exceptional level of comfort for travelers,” promised a spokesman for PKP. “All platforms will be roofed, and escalators, elevators and dynamic information system will facilitate travel.”

So Long, Farewell Work on dismantling the Ilmet tower will accelerate this year, with real estate developer Skanska revealing that the next few months will see construction crews begin stripping the exterior bit-by-bit. Completed in 1997, the 97-meter Ilmet will be replaced by the Warsaw One skyscraper, a 188-meter skyscraper designed by the Danish architectural studio Schmidt Hammer Lassen. Though renderings have been floating around for the best part of a decade, further adaptations are expected.

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PHOTOGRAPHS MIDDLE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL (2), OPPOSITE PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

A TV Winner?

Construction has begun on a new television production facility for TVP, the state broadcasting firm. Set to be the most modern TV studio in the country, the project will include wardrobe warehouses and an outdoor studio on a eco-friendly green roof. Also featuring rain retention systems, the 20,000 sq/m building will be controlled by intelligent SMART systems and tout a giant 3D screen covering a 300 sq/m corner of the façade. Designed by PIG Architekci, the building is being erected next door to TVP’s HQ, a vulgar glass fortress whose mind-boggling aesthetics have often been likened to both Gargamel’s Castle and the Tower of Babel.

WEATHER

The End Of The World Is Nigh!

Extraordinary in its ferocity, January saw Warsaw take the brunt of a storm that will live long in the memory.

T

hough no stranger to freak weather patterns, even by Poland’s own wacky standards January 17th offered something truly unexpected. Lashed by ‘thundersnow’, Warsaw found itself engulfed in darkness at around 10 a.m. Swiftly, this was followed by ten-to-twelve minutes of raging thunder and heavy snow. Brief but powerful, the ensuing carnage saw firefighters called into action to deal with felled trees and wrecked cars.

In all, emergency services were summoned over 150 times in the capital to deal with the fallout.

Bizarrely, the apocalyptic interlude was quickly followed by clear blue skies and bright sunshine. Resulting from a strong synoptic-scale squall line passing overhead, the storm also hit other parts of central and eastern Poland with winds reaching as high as 162 km per hour in some areas.

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In brief

PUBLIC ART

Look Who’s Baaack!

Widely known for his surrealistic water colors, Tytus Brzozowski has added to his portfolio of murals with the unveiling of another large-format stunner in downtown Warsaw.

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ound on ul. Wschowska 10, the latest makes use of anti-smog technology and was created using special paints that deaden the effect of airborne pollutants. Covering the entire building – not just one side – the mural was created in cahoots with ZGN Wola.

Mateusz Matejewski, director of ZGN Wola, said: “It wasn’t just the artist’s design that we liked; we made the façade of this building available because we understood the beneficial impact this mural could have on the environment – painted with anti-smog paints, when used on such a large surface the paints clean the air in the same way 400 trees would.”

Following the spirit of his recent murals, Brzozowski has

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paid homage to the immediate area by depicting many familiar local landmarks; aside from modern skyscrapers, that’s meant featuring the iconic gas towers close to Zachodnia station. Known as “the Wola Colosseum”, these epic rotundas were built during the Industrial Revolution and have long fascinated Warsaw’s urban explorers.

Though primarily known for his paintings, Brzozowski first delved into the world of XXL art in 2018 and has since seen several murals executed in and around Warsaw, among them a work adorning the Spark office building, another on Chmielna 120, one that celebrates the city’s Jewish heritage close to Pl. Grzybowski, and another within spitting distance of the eastern train station.

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Hello Darkness, My Old Friend

Casting Warsaw in a new, atmospheric light, this month we settle in for a moonlit chat with Insta legend Mustache Lens…

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATEUSZ WĄS

City Photography WI: Most of your images are captured at night – what do you love about working in the dark evening hours?

ML: The sight of light emerging from the darkness fascinates me – things like lanterns, illuminated subway entrances, shop windows, office lights, etc. When these are juxtaposed against the darkness you can get incredible results. Besides, I always want to learn how to take pictures that draw people in and lend a new perspective on things.

Do you plan your shoots or are your photos taken spontaneously?

Originally they were totally spontaneous. Recently, however, I’ve started creating shoot lists in my head and using friends as models or heading to pre-determined locations. On my Insta, you’ll definitely now find a few photos that are more ‘arranged’.

“ Besides, I always want to learn how to take pictures that draw people in and lend a new perspective on things.”

In your mind, what makes a beautiful photo?

It’s all about capturing the moment.

The most beautiful thing about an image is the ‘moment’ and the way we perceive it. Each of us has a different point of view, and that’s what the most beautiful thing of all is.

What do you love about photographing Warsaw – what makes the city such a good model?

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATEUSZ WĄS

What are you shooting with and what’s your post-production process?

I’ve got a Sony A7III camera and use Tamron and Samyang lenses. All the editing, meanwhile, is done in Lightroom. I spend quite a lot of time editing, but I absolutely love doing it – especially when the results come close to what I’d first imagined. As the saying goes, you can do the impossible right away, but you need to wait a little longer for miracles!

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City Photography

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City Photography It’s a city that doesn’t have a specific mood. Warsaw’s a patchwork city that really inspies. The contrasts, for instance in the city’s architecture, generate a unique atmosphere and then you’ve got the various lights, trams, metro stops, etc.

Do you have any favorite secret little places in Warsaw that you like to shoot?

Well, they’re not secret and they’re not small, but I really enjoy shooting photos around Rondo ONZ and Daszyńskiego – they remind me of London and Rotterdam, two cities that I really enjoy and try to visit as regularly as possible. I’m trying to get to know Warsaw all the time.

I’ve been here for three-years now, but even so I’m still discovering new things every now and again.

Finally, what’s in the name: Mustache Lens?

The Lens bit is self-explanatory, but Mustache is a modified version of my surname – none of my English-speaking friends could ever pronounce my surname so I changed it a little to make it easier for them to say. Hopefully, I think Mustache Lens is quite original.

For more on Mustache Lens, check: instagram.com /mustache_lens

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATEUSZ WĄS

We’re assuming, by the way, that you’re a pro photographer?

Ha, maybe when I grow up! I started photographing when I was a kid – whilst my friends were getting bikes, I was asking for cameras.

True, I gave up photography for a while, but true love never dies. I picked up photography again last year and since then me and my camera have lived happily ever after!

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A wedding photographer and computer specialist by profession, Mariusz Zając has become one of Poland’s best-known colorizers of historical pictures. Specializing in the inter-bellum period, his stunning images of pre-war Warsaw have won him admirers around the world… warsawinsider.pl

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Historical Photography Colorized

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Have you been surprised by the reaction to your work?

In most cases it’s positive, especially if you use ‘likes’ or ‘shares’ as a benchmark. Of course, there are negative comments, but these are few and far between and mainly from people who believe that historical photos shouldn’t be colored.

Do they have a point?

They claim that images lose their ‘atmosphere’ when colored. I answer them by saying that my colorizations do not mean that the originals have been removed from the public sphere. Some think that my artistic vision isn’t in accordance with historical truth, but I think I’m providing a service by giving viewers a choice.

You’ve won a huge following, but it turns out you haven’t even been coloring for long?

That’s right. I made coloring debut in February 2020. My first photos and film though received great feedback and it was then that I realized there wasn’t much competition. That’s partly why I

decided to throw myself into coloring and expand my knowledge.

How accurate are you colors?

Like all colorizations, they’re part of the artistic vision of the creator. Even now, there’s no way to work out what the actual color was in a monochromatic photograph.

So, now for the nerd talk – how do you color these images in the first place?

First of all I use a program called deOldify - but that relies on neutral network algorithms which means that every photo processed in this way will tend to look the same no matter what it actually shows. In order to improve my colorization results I therefore then use my own techniques to give a different color expression. These tools are based on AI algorithms that I’ve created using my computer know-how. The coloring process isn’t actually all that different, but because I’ve found my own methods my images look different to the others on the market. It’s great to hear that viewers often warsawinsider.pl

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Historical Photography Colorized

can’t tell if the colors are original or not.

What do you look for when choosing which photos to color?

The coloring process has several stages and a lot depends on the quality of the initial photo. The photographs I color must have a certain minimum scan and image quality and I asses these individually based on past experience. If a photo falls below these quality specifications I have to leave it as I know the results won’t be realistic. There’s a lot of very interesting archival images that I would love to color but simply can’t because they’re not of sufficient quality.

Assuming an image is of good resolution and quality, what happens next? How time consuming is this?

Coloring one photo can take anything between thirty minutes to three or four-hours. AI algorithms aren’t good at colorizing crowds, for instance, so these demand extra work. It’s also important to spend time finding color references for essential

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“ Essentially, my works will be brought to life in a way that I hope will make it the most captivating multimedia exhibition that Warsaw has seen to date” elements. For example, one time I colored Marshal Piłsudski and got the shade of his sash wrong – straight away people were writing in to tell me that these ceremonial sashes had different colors.

How is the world of colorists changing?

The development of AI algorithms over the last couple of years have been incredible. What was impossible not long back has already become possible and this progress has completely redefined many basic concepts that apply to photography and graphics. To digitally enlarge a photo it would deteriorate in quality, but now it will no longer lose significant quality. I’ve no doubt that

what we consider to be unthinkable now will soon have an answer – and to be honest, I’m not even talking about photography alone. I’m convinced that what we perceive to belong in the realms of science fiction will soon become reality.

Ever since premiering, your work has gone viral…

My first forays into photo and film colorization were widely publicized in the media and ever since then I’ve had some really interesting opportunities. Looking ahead, I’m really excited that I’ve got a multimedia exhibition of my work coming up in the Norblin factory complex.

Tell us more!

I’ve met many interesting people thanks to my work, and one of those is Joanna Kowalkowska of the Art Box Experience in Norblin. She contacted me about holding an exhibition and I simply assumed it would be the kind of classic exhibition that doesn’t interest people much anymore: pictures hanging on a wall. To be honest, that didn’t arouse much enthusiasm on my part, but then she started telling me more about it and I realized it had nothing in line with our traditional perception of an exhibition. The project will use my colorized photos and films and, thanks to state-of-the-art laser digital projections, will calibrate them to create a seamless exhibition of 800 sq/m. Essentially, my works will be brought to life in a way that I hope will make it the most captivating multimedia exhibition that Warsaw has seen to date.

For sure, lots of people would love to experiment with coloring themselves – what advice would you give to a novice?

There’s lots of quick-fix online tools but although many are quite reliable you do sometimes find errors in the interpretation of an image. For instance, you might find a program coloring trees green when, in fact, they should be a different color as the photo was taken in autumn. To correct these kind of things you have no choice but to befriend Photoshop. Simultaneously, I’d tell beginners to acquaint themselves with the theory of color in painting – that’s important so that you learn how to choose colors consciously rather than by accident.

Lastly, I’d recommend that people familiarize themselves with color correction and color grading.

The Art Box Experience

Set to open on March 19th, the Art Box Experience is being hyped as an immersive exhibition and event center that will allow visitors to travel back in time inside the Norblin Factory. Titled Retro Warsaw, the first exhibition will be based upon digitally reconstructed archival materials that will take people back to Warsaw’s inter-bellum: thanks to a pioneering 360 projection system, visitors will find themselves drawn inside the unique atmosphere of the era.

Breathing new life into this distant past, the authors of the project have revived a lost world with their project giving people the opportunity to march alongside a military parade, view a car race or which in awe as a skyscraper is constructed. But, so they say, prepare also to meet the city’s everyday residents. “On the streets, at the bust stop, in the shops or inside the old Norblin factory.” Promising to be like nothing Warsaw has ever seen before, tickets and further info can be found at: artboxexperience.com

For more, see: zajacfoto.com warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE NAC< OPPOSITE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

PAST

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PERFECT More than offering a mere bed for the night, this issue join us for a look at the Warsaw hotels that helped rewrite history…

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Hotel Warszawa Nowadays, most locals call the building that towers over Pl. Powstańców Warszawy the Warszawa after the hotel that it houses. This, however, was not always the case. Completed in 1933, and put into use the following year, this early skyscraper was originally titled the Prudential in honor of its principal tenant – the globally renowned British insurance firm.

Initially intended measure just 11-storeys, this was increased during the planning stage to 16-floors in all. Heavily influenced by the trans-Atlantic skyscrapers trending in cities like New York and Chicago, Marcin Weinefeld’s project became Poland’s tallest tower. In, in Europe only the 96-meter Boerentoren in Antwerp beat it for size. Visible from 20 kilometers away, its height wasn’t overlooked by Poland’s television firms and in 1936 the roof was handed over to house the nation’s first TV transmitter.

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But although Prudential could be considered the flagship tenant, the building’s higher floors had been set aside for several apartments that were, at the time, considered among the most luxurious in Warsaw – the biggest penthouses covered a whopping 240 sq/m.

Constructed using two million bricks, two thousand tons of concrete and one-and-a-half thousand tons of concrete, it was a building whose huge dimensions were matched by the luxuries within: there were frescoes by Wacław Borowski, one of the country’s leading artists of the era, walnut furniture

by Nina Jankowska, and a heap of alabaster and marble trimmings.

Its importance did not diminish during the occupation and the Prudential’s height made it a pivotal Home Army target once the 1944 Warsaw Uprising kicked-off; realizing the morale boost it would give citizens were they to see the Polish flag flying from the nation’s tallest building, capturing the building was an early priority – it’s fall sparked scenes of wild jubilation. “When the Polish flag was hoisted from

PHOTOGRAPH TOP POLONA.PL, BELOW PRESS MATERIAL

THE TALL GUY

it, people left their homes just to look at it, crying and laughing and spontaneously singing the national anthem,” wrote historian Alexandra Richie.

The German response was ferocious and the building was subsequently battered by 1,000 rounds of artillery. On August 28th, 1944, it was struck by a two-ton shell but still its steel skeleton held firm – captured on Sylwester Braun’s Leica camera, his images of the resulting explosion would become iconic.

Never captured in battle, the Prudential only returned to German hands when the city’s surrender was signed – a symbol of stubborn defiance, it had withstood everything the Nazis had thrown at it.

Even so, it made for a sorry sight. Filled with over nine thousand tons of rubble, it would take years for it to be restored. Leading these efforts was the original architect, who himself had survived the war by the skin of his teeth having been imprisoned in Dachau.

Due to the new political reality, Weinfeld’s first design was simplified to fit the concepts of Socialist Realism, and more floors were squashed in thereby

giving the building a more cramped feeling. Still, its renewal was welcomed, and when it relaunched in 1954 it was to fulfill the function of a hotel. It was named the Warszawa.

Famous for its social gatherings and black tie balls, for a short while the hotel became the pride of PRL Poland; the glory years did not last. When Communism collapsed, the hotel too found itself falling from grace. Looking increasingly dark and dowdy, it was finally closed in 2003. Fortunately, this was not the end.

Purchased by the Likus family in 2009, there could have been no better buyer for this historic property. Already known for luxuriously recharging a string of heritage addresses in Kraków, Wrocław and Katowice, their patient revival process saw the Warszawa finally reopened in 2018. Spectacular and contemporary yet also tastefully restrained, the rebooted Warszawa now stands out as one of the most exciting stays in Central Eastern Europe. High on natural materials, and looking teasingly minimalistic, the design-forward style is a sensuous joy.

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Hotels Past & Present

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THE LAP OF LUXURY Raffles Europejski Warsaw The 2018 launch of the Raffles Europejski Warsaw was the culmination of a meticulous renovation that saw no expense spared. But so much more than just another sumptuous hotel, its inauguration marked the return of an iconic building that has often been at the forefront of the trials and triumphs experienced by Warsaw.

Originally opened in 1857, Henryk’s Marconi’s Neo-Renaissance design for the Europejski was complemented by lavish interior touches by his son, Karol, and his nephew, Ferrante. Impressing from its inception, people traveled from far and wide to enjoy the cooking of Józef Wysakowski, the former chef to Spain’s Queen Isabel – quickly, the hotel earned a reputation as arguably the most elegant in the entire Tsarist Empire. Refusing to stand still, further improvements were made to coincide with its 50th anniversary; partly goaded by the opening of the Bristol across the road, the upgrade included the introduction of sound-proofed doors, electric elevators and telephone booths.

The stars of the day flocked there (among them, the avant garde painter Witkacy and actress Helena Modrzejewska, a.k.a. Poland’s most beautiful woman), and the Europejski’s glittering New Year’s Eve parties found themselves immortalized after being featured in The Doll (Lalka), a 19th century classic that has come to be regarded as the greatest literary work in the history of Poland.

Rechristened the Europäisches in 1939, the Nazi occupation saw it designated as Nur für Deutsche and for the following five years its corridors clicked to the goosestepping jackboots of visiting German officers. Heavily damaged during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, it reopened as a hotel in 1962, albeit a pale shadow of what it once was. Nonetheless, the lack

of competition saw it maintain its reputation as the city’s top hotel, and as such the big names continued to check-in.

Of the ‘slebs that lodged at the post-war Europejski, Marlene Dietrich was one of the first with the chanteuse snootily complaining that the lift wasn’t large enough for her four-meter fur (in a huff, she switched to the Bristol opposite). Next came The Rolling Stones, with their two landmark gigs prompting riots around town. According to legend, their press conference at the Europejski only went ahead following a last-minute bribe, while other anecdotes claim they finished their first night in Poland drinking vodka and crawling back to their rooms “on all fours”.

Of course, not all high-profile visits were as chaotic, and one of the hotel’s prouder moments came in 1970 when Willy Brandt signed a declaration officially normalizing relations between Poland and Germany. Soon after, the West German Chancellor would send further shockwaves across the world by dropping to his knees in front of the Jewish Uprising Monument in Muranów.

For the Europejski, however, the years that followed brought only gloom, a decline finally halted when a 2005 court ruling returned it to its rightful pre-war owners. Working in tandem with Raffles, the resulting restoration has seen the hotel become a benchmark in luxury and a showcase of the finest Polish art and craftsmanship. Fittingly, among the first VIPs to stay were the Rolling Stones. Visiting Poland as part of their No Filter tour, it was a clear affirmation that this stunning hotel had returned to its rightful perch. Truly extraordinary in every respect, the Raffles Europejski Warsaw has bridged the past with the present in peerless fashion – that it also doubles as home to outposts of Hermes, Aston Martin and Brunello Cucinelli only serves to underline its blue ribbon reputation. warsawinsider.pl

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THE GRAND DAME Hotel Bristol Celebrating her 120th birthday last year, few hotels can match the story of the Bristol. Named so after the Earl of Bristol, a famously extravagant and worldly 18th century traveler, this Warsaw legend welcomed its first guest on November 19th, 1901.

Reportedly arriving from Paris, Emilia Finot crossed the threshold to be greeted by the hotel’s

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GM, a man history remembers only by the surname of Helbling.

Setting a groundbreaking standard, she was whisked on a tour of a hotel that contained thrills such as central heating, double ventilation and a staggering six telephone lines. The star attraction though was a crystal lift, a contraption deemed so exotic that the hotel hired an attendant to make sure that users didn’t faint with excitement. The press corps, who had queued rowdily on the stairwell for their preview, wrote of little else than this “fairy tale carriage”.

Mirroring Poland’s own inter-bellum golden age, the Bristol too enjoyed the 20s and 30s to the max.

It was then that Prime Minister Ignacy Jan Paderewski chaired his first government meeting inside the hotel, thereby giving birth to modern Polish democracy in the process. In fact, such was his liking of the property, he took a suite here that today has been preserved as a nationally protected monument.

More than just an object of historic curiosity, today it doubles as the hotel’s most prestigious suite.

Famed for its lavish social events, the Bristol also saw its fair share of drama – when Józef Piłsudski announced his retirement from politics, it was in the Bristol’s hallowed halls. Though never destroyed during the war, a fact owing to the favor it found with German high command (one section became the HQ of the Chief of the Warsaw District), peacetime found the Bristol looking apologetic.

Still, the first couple of decades saw no shortage of VIP custom, and of those to traipse through the entrance were Marlene Dietrich, Pablo Picasso and JFK. But with investment lacking, the hotel was closed in 1981 and only revived once Communism fell. Purchased by the Forte Group, an extensive renovation was undertaken and the hotel was reopened by Margaret Thatcher in 1993. Signaling a return to the good times, the hotel became a biword for quality, a fact highlighted by the visitors it would attract in the ensuing years: Bill Gates, Paul McCartney, Tina Turner, Sophia Loren and Woody Allen to name but a few.

Famously, when George Bush arrived at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier to give a speech, it was one of the hotel’s concierge staff that came to the rescue when it was realized that the President had left his coat in Berlin. Rushing to his aid, an overcoat belonging to a concierge was delivered just in the nick of time by the Bristol’s head of operations.

Rated as one of the most famous hotels in Central Eastern Europe, today the Bristol continues to evolve mixing its powerful sense of history with the modern day demands of the five star traveler.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE POLONA.PL, OPPOSITE TOP NAC, BOTTOM SHUTTERSTOCK

Hotels Past & Present

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PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT SHUTTERSTOCK, POLONA.PL (3)

Hotels Past & Present

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GRAND CENTRAL Polonia Palace Hotel Hints as to how majestic Warsaw once looked can be found on that stretch of Jerzolimskie that runs from Rondo Dmowskiego to Emili Plater street – scanning the buildings that line this route, its easy to understand why Warsaw was once known as the ‘Paris of the East’. But imperious as these structures are, none look as grand as the Polonia Palace Hotel.

Opened on the 14th of July, 1913, its name was no accident. Founded at a time when Poland still fell under Tsarist rule, its title was picked by the hotel’s founder, Konstanty G. Przeździecki, to remind the citizens of Warsaw that Poland “should always exist in the heart and mind”.

From the outset, it was quite a hotel. Though competing against heavyweights such as the Bristol and Europejski, it offered modern conveniences the likes of which were unavailable in rival hotels: among these trimmings, guests had access to typewriters and fireproof deposit boxes. Also offering “transport solutions” to the city’s train stations, its location was another big boon.

Located just strides away from the Warsaw-Vienna station, its coordinates ensured a constant footfall of visiting dignitaries, including the King of Afghanistan in 1929. By this time, the hotel was already synonymous with the high life, and 1924 saw the garage converted into a dance hall and ballroom whose artistic director was Ralph Roy, an award-winning dancer from Vienna.

Attracting a string of VIPs, those that gathered for the Polonia’s banquets and balls included Stefan Żeromski, Tadeusz Boy-Żeleński and the legendary tenor and actor Jan Kiepura. In 1929, the hotel hosted the first ever Miss Polonia competition, a pageant won by Władysława Kostakówna – passing away in 2001, Kostakówna would later finish runner-up in the Miss Europe contest, before going on to be awarded for courage for her work as an agent during WWII. Undoubtedly, it was this era that was to prove the most challenging for the hotel. Already hailed for its extensive wine cellar, trendy perfumery, hair salon and chlorine-free laundry service, it was little wonder that it was seconded by the occupying Germans and it became a favorite haunt of visiting officers. Captured during the Warsaw Uprising, it served as a field hospital and supply center and only survived destruction after loyal staff risked all by returning after the capitulation to lock the hotel down.

It was because of their courage that the Polonia

became the only hotel in the city to withstand heavy destruction, and this made it a natural choice for embassies seeking a post-war address in the ruined city center. Most famously of all, it was here where General Eisenhower stayed in 1945 whilst touring the devastated city.

The PRL era saw the Polonia treated well, and in 1953 it hosted a famous diplomatic banquet – attended by Zhou Enlai, the first leader of the People’s Republic of China – during which chefs created dishes such as a horse-drawn carriage made from cold cuts and ‘burning ice cream boats’ that featured batteries and lights inside. Never short of celebrity custom, the following decades drew visits from legendary footballers such as Zbigniew Boniek, Grzegorz Lato and Jan Tomaszewski (the goalkeeper that thwarted England at Wembley in 1973) not to mention performances by the biggest domestic bands of the time: Czerwone Gitary, Skaldowie and Słowiki.

Temporarily closed at the beginning of the millennium, major restorations occurred in 2004 and 2010, and these have returned the hotel to its standing of yore. Beautiful to explore, it’s a hotel whose history and tradition ring loud and proud. warsawinsider.pl

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Hotels Past & Present THAT SEVENTIES GLOW Novotel Warszawa Centrum

Today, you’ll likely know it as the Novotel, but back in the 1970s the tower that loomed over Rondo Dmowskiego identified itself as the Forum Hotel. Opened on January 24th, 1974, it was touted as being “the first Western style tower in the city”. Designed by Sten Samuelson, not everyone liked it, and its sandy-brown façade saw it quickly dubbed ‘the chocolate bar’ by unimpressed locals. Standing 96-meters high, what was then Poland’s second tallest building had several detractors with one critic, Jerzy Waldorff, going so far as to claim the architect had avenged Sweden’s 1656 defeat at The Battle of Częstochowa with his design.

But the Swedish connection did not end here.

Most famously, ABBA used the Forum as their base when they visited Poland in 1976. Reputedly booked after the Polish authorities promised to export tons of canned peas to Sweden, the pop megastars were besieged by fans at the Forum, though did manage to squeeze out through the delirious mob record a TV program, tour the Palace of Culture and neck some vodka in the Old Town. Formerly also used as the seat of embassies representing Libya, Gabon, Costa Rica and Portugal, the hotel was rechristened the Novotel in 2002. Modernized a couple of years later, its jaundiced skin was replaced by the sleek, silvery façade we see today.

“ Opened on January 24th, 1974, it was touted as being “the first Western style tower in the city” 32

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2022

A NEW DAWN! Warsaw Marriott Hotel When the Marriott opened in 1989 it marked the end of a stop-start construction process that had lasted twelve years in all. Taking root on a plot that had been empty since the war, the original plans – drawn-up in the 1960s – were almost sci-fi in their style and imagined a futuristic complex consisting of ice rinks, pools and skyscrapers linked together by footbridges and cable cars.

By the 70s, the blueprints had been amended and simplified but even so the project found itself halted for several years after the implosion of the domestic economy. Resumed in 1987, work finished two-years later thanks, in part, to the efforts of Thai construction workers flown in for the job. An oasis of prosperity and American-style largesse, expats and monied locals thronged the hotel’s bars and restaurants, while visiting VIPs made full use of the

split-level Presidential Suite on the 40th floor: Joan Collins, Luciano Pavarotti, Chris de Burgh and Michael Jackson to name just a few. Helmut Kohl, too, was here when news filtered through that the Berlin Wall was being swarmed and dismantled.

Mostly, however, it’s the building’s association with the US Presidency that has made waves: Trump and Bush stayed here, whilst Obama was at the center of security storm after a guest managed to get up close and film him working out.

Playing a crucial role in Poland’s post-Communist development, it was in the Marriott that Western advisors camped enmasse during those early years of wild capitalism. Known disparagingly by locals as “The Marriott Brigade”, it was these consultants, congressmen and contractors that helped haul Poland from the dark ages. Still regarded as a symbol of Poland’s free market growth, the building’s future was safeguarded in 2010 when the Marriott group extended their lease till 2044. warsawinsider.pl

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MOYA MATCHA JAPANESE GREEN TEA

ul. Oleandrów 6, moyamatcha.com / fb.com/moyamatchaoleandrow

Eat! ABRA KEBABRA!

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Another month and another magical discovery on the kebab front…

warsawinsider.pl

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Review

W

hen we proclaimed Fazir to be Poland’s best kebab last month we unwittingly unleashed something of a war.

“So you’ve visited every kebab store in the country,” scoffed one unhappy reader; “bullshit,” opined another. And gosh, that was in public – you should have seen the inbox.

Anyhow, in moments like that it’s natural to get defensive: to dig in and stick your fingers in your ears. That said, it does pay to listen, for every once in a while you’ll receive a few tips that you’d never otherwise have heard – and in this case, that came to mean Amun.

WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE? Much like any other high street kebab joint is your answer.

Looking bare and bluish-grey, the outward sterility is offset by the big welcome that hails you on entry. Regardless, it’s a spartan room whose décor doesn’t go beyond a fridge, squeaky clean floor tiles and a blackboard menu perched above the counter.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

WHERE IS IT? The bad news (yep, there’s always some), is that like Fazir this place isn’t central. In fact, similar to Fazir, it’s not even inside Warsaw’s city boundaries.

Found in the western satellite town of Pruszków, it’s a ten-minute south-easterly walk from the station, and just a sharp whistle from the scenic Park Potulickich – so yeah, you’ve now got a reason to make a day of your trip.

Amun Kebab ul. B. Prusa 48 (Pruszków), fb.com/amunkebab

THE FOOD So yes, what of the food. Like Fazir, the big schtick here is a charcoal-fired grill over which you’ll find two rotating skewers of lamb and chicken.

This alone is something worth the return ticket to Pruszków. Giving the meat a heavy, smoky intensity, your kebab is further enhanced by fresh vegetables and cabbage that feels almost fermented – this rich, tart tang works brilliantly with the meat while the homemade sauces tie up the experience.

Spicy but never overpowering, the hot sauce comes recommended for those that like their kebab to come with a fiery personality.

FINAL WORD Peaking at zł. 23 for the ‘mega size’ (which, in truth, can be eaten easily in a sitting by those with a more masculine appetite), the kebabs here are very good indeed, whilst other dishes koftas, falafel, shawarmas and kebab boxes loaded to the gunnels with meat, chips and salad.

It’s a place whose quality can’t be argued. An excellent stop-off if you’re in this neck of the world, it’s interesting that Warsaw can now boast two brilliant charcoal-cooked kebabs sitting on its east and west flank – but is it not now time for something like this to debut in the center? We live in hope… warsawinsider.pl

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Review SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF THIS

Hidden under Poniatowski Bridge, Domo Bake redefines the artisanal dessert landscape…

N

icknamed ‘the Sugar Queen’, Dominika Małysiak has earned every jewel in her baking crown through perseverance, creativity and dedication. Entirely self-taught, she’s become one of the brightest beacons of Poland’s baking community…

THE PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING Being stranded on an exotic

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island sounds just about ideal, right? But while most of us would use the opportunity to sit under a palm tree and sip jungle fruit cocktails, Dominika found herself doing something different. Stuck in Sri Lanka last year due to quarantine, the baker opted to use her extended break to pen an e-book titled Przepisy Prosto z Dżunlgi. Laying bare the secrets behind thirty-one of her desserts (from the perfect salted caramel brownie

Domo Bake Solec 81B (unit 62A, Centrum Handlowe Arkada), fb.com/domobake

morsel is scooped from the cookie sheet.

to red velvet cookies and vegan donuts), it was a testament not to just her baking prowess, but also her passion for vocation.

THE SKINNY Situated on the top floor of the Arkady complex that sits under Poniatowski Bridge, Domo Bake is open from Friday through Sunday with the day’s offerings sitting outside the frosted glass façade that conceals Dominika's rented baking space. With each display piece numbered with a marker pen and then laid to rest on a folding table, here these gems remain until the last

WHAT TO WATCH Ever willing to engage with punters, visits invariably begin with a cheerful welcome before rolling into an explanation of just what glories lie in front.

On our visit, that meant red velvet pops alongside cinnamon rolls with caramel and dustings of chopped walnut; also readying for rollout were poppyseed bagels. Looking like a simple chocolate chip cookie, star billing though went to a macaroon surprise, the kind of treat that widens your eyes.

Speaking to her during the hustle and bustle of the afternoon, it’s Dominika’s passion though that really elevates the experience to impossible highs. Talking as her kitchen timer allows, she’s a mine of information that’s happy to be quizzed – be sure to ask about her cookie dough, for you won’t be disappointed to learn exactly how she makes it.

INSIDER TIP For a great weekend brunch, check what bagels are on offer on Facebook, and if you’re planning a party don’t think about ordering cake from anyone but here. Customized to your preference, these include cakes flouting saucy expressions that will liven any party: for examples, just check Domo Bake's Insta feed! KD warsawinsider.pl

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Tradition Zagoździński

DONUT STOP ME NOW

As National Donut Day approaches, we take a look at some of our favorites in town…

J

ust imagine, an entire holiday based on Homer Simpson’s favorite meal – but no, you’re dreaming, in Poland such a thing really exists. Falling this year on February 24th, Tłusty Czwartek is a day on which the humble donut becomes the source of a nation’s fiendish obsession.

But what’s it all about? Translated as ‘Fat Thursday’, the holiday has its roots in religion – marking the last Thursday before Lent, it’s a day on which God-fearing worshippers would traditionally feast on goodies otherwise shunned during this other-

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wise solemn time. Over the years, that’s come to mean donuts and, to a lesser degree, angel wings as well.

Welcomed also by Poland’s growing band of non-believers, the day sees over 100 million donuts consumed across the country, and you can expect immense queues to build outside bakeries and sweet stores. Arousing strong passions, it’s not been entirely unknown to find lines devolving into fisticuffs whenever errant queue-jumpers are caught. But which donuts are worth fighting for?

We can think of a few.

Tradition THE NEW WAVE Kukułka

ul. Mokotowska 52

MOD Donuts

Kukułka’s desserts have lifted Warsaw in a heavenly direction – literally in the case of their Angel Wings. The donuts include both traditional and I-didn’t-expect-that fillings (passion fruit!), and don’t dare leave without their signature cream puffs.

Lukullus

Various Locations

Though their origins date to 1946, the individualized, uber-cool interiors and modern desserts make Lukullus a shoe-in for our New Wave shortlist. Using rose jam as their filling, the donuts are a nod to the roots of this well-respected operation.

THE OLD GUARD

Miss Mellow

Chmielna 13

Wilcza 62

Reminiscent of Italian bombolini, these doughy spheres of pleasure come oozing with milk chocolate, vanilla cream, salty caramel and a few other tastes we can’t remember – you might not either, as this place has a habit of knocking you sideways with its tasty little treasures.

MOD

Oleandrów 8 & Paryska 27

Award-winning NYC-style donuts that transpire to be things of craft, adventure and irresistible taste. All the better for ignoring chemical nasties and mass-market shortcuts, the playful nature of MOD’s non-standard offerings is expressed via all-natural, boldly-colored toppings such as matcha, mango, black forest gateau, salted caramel or hibiscus.

We LOVE it!

Cukiernia Pawłowicz Revered by traditionalists, the queue on Tłusty Czwartek snakes as far as the eye can see. Be patient to see why.

Irena

Born in Szczecin in 1989, Stara Pączkarnia has since blossomed into a nationwide chain. Served through a hatch, find their Warsaw sales point dealing an array of tastes that include rebel fillings such as pineapple, Advocaat or Bounty.

Zakopiańska 20

Stary Dom

Smaki Warszawy

Though less than ten years old, the aesthetic conjures images of Warsaw’s upmarket, inter-war confectionaries. The traditionally angled desserts – donuts included – are unimpeachable.

Existing since 1937, this cult venue chooses to decorate its donuts with orange peel and pipe them full of plum jam. The results transcend description.

Visit!

Various Locations

Something of a hybrid, Smaki Warszawy tread a fine line between tradition and modernity.

Though there’s much contemporary about their cakes, the donuts are of the old school variety.

Stara Pączkarnia Nowy Świat 28

Puławska 104/106

Zagoździński Górczewska 15

Suppliers to none other than Marshal Józef Piłsudski! Founded in 1925, and side-stepping modern innovation and artificial nasties, it’s by far the most famous pączek in Poland – no kidding, queues stretch around the block! warsawinsider.pl

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MADE IN JAPAN

No longer limited to sushi alone, we bring you a hitlist of some of our favorite Japanese restaurants ahead of the country’s National Day on February 11th…

SUSHI & MORE NEW WAVE Nobu

Wilcza 73

Famously co-created by Robert DeNiro, producer Meir Teper, and chef Nobu Matsuhisa, it’s little wonder that this hotel was one of the most-hyped openings of 2020. The on-site restaurant, an exercise in zenlike luxury if ever there was, has also proved a pull with offerings

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such as wagyu beef tacos, king crab tempura, kushiyaki skewers, not to mention house signatures like black cod with miso and yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno.

OKONOMIYAKI

choose in Haci, including a real winner with squid. And aside from this, make time for the Takoyaki ‘octopus balls’. Although much-loved by Warsaw’s Japanese community, it remains something of a whispered little secret – get there now!

Polna 30B

OMAKASE

Haci

You might well ask what okonomiyaki are – to clarify (and simplify), these are Japanese-style pancakes cooked on a teppan griddle. There’s six to

Japonka

Grzybowska 56

Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT, KEVIN DEMARIA (2), PRESS MATERIAL

Roundup

Roundup NOBU

JAPONKA

fried pork chops with Tonkatsu sauce; or their addictive donburi rice bowls.

VEGAN EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring a magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!

SETS Mizu

Duchnicka 3

Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, the sushi is something special. Touting a modern-minimal look, the off-center location in a former factory since requisitioned by ad agencies lends to the sensation of dining somewhere a little under-the-radar. The sets are great value and offer a rounded

BBQ RAMEN-YA

Edamame Vegan Sushi & Youmiko Vegan Sushi Wilcza 11 & Hoża 62

Sushi without fish sounds insane, but these competing restaurants out-maneuver their more traditional competitors by replacing below-par amphibians with fresh vegetarian produce. Often stunningly creative, we’re stuck when it comes to choosing between this duo of stars. view of Mizu’s skills.

NOODLES

SOUPS

RAMEN

Nowogrodzka 56

Naruszewicza 29

Art Sushi

Forget your bog standard miso choices elsewhere, head to Art Sushi to dive into a rich array of soups such as their spicy seafood goulash option or the bouillon with mandu dumplings.

As kimchi fanatics, we’re happy to vouch for the pungent kimchi soup.

BBQ Ramen-ya

STREET FOOD

Looking like something straight out of Kung Fu Panda, this curious wooden shack serves just about the most complex and flavorsome ramen the Insider has had to date. The spicy vege tantanmen us loaded with fermented goodness and offers a great blend of savory peanut essence and enough chili oil to put winter on pause.

Pawińskiego 24

UDON

Sato Gotuje

This commie era pavilion is one of Warsaw's great ethnic treasures with a menu high on bitey Japanese street foods that you gobble with pleasure: choose from joys like grilled mackerel;

Uki Uki

Krucza 23/31

How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar?

Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is warsawinsider.pl

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Roundup WABU

JAPONKI

can be few more influential sushi gurus working in Poland.

Than’s precision and innovation breathes new life into a culinary sector that has at times felt tired and one-dimensional.

PRESENTATION Wabu

Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire)

VEGAN

Uki Green

Koszykowa 49A

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the vegan ramen.

EXPERIENCE ALCOHOL

Wakayama

Noakowskiego 12

Warsaw’s Japanese restaurants often feel deathly serious in their atmosphere. Wakayama reverse that trend with a casual informality that’s brilliant to lap up. Fun and friendly, the drinks here include a range of sake and a choice of Japanese craft beers such as yuzu lager, red rice ale and espresso stout brewed by Hitachino Nest.

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CHAIN

Vegan Ramen Shop Various Locations

That they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand and quality. Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade games and a pink surfboard), their converts claim they serve “the best noodles in the world”.

DESIGN

Kiseki by Alon Chmielna 36A

It’s not just the food that feels perfect, but the design itself.

Set inside a glass cube, find pristine interiors decorated with swathes of street art by Swansky, clever lighting and plants and flowers hanging from the ceiling. It’s just beautiful to look at.

FOOD HALL

Sushi By Alon

Grzybowska 58 (Browary Food Hall)

Run by Alon Than, a sushi master who claimed the 2015 World Sushi Champion title at Tokyo’s World Sushi Cup, there

FOR HOME Japonki

Krochmalna 61

Serving as a store first and foremost, head here to stock up on fresh tofu, crackers, noodles, fish, Kanji ink brushes and ceramic bits and pieces. And when you’re done, get some sushi to go: using only certified farmed fish as well as shortgrain rice fused with Japanese vinegars, such has been the hype, it’s not uncommon to find food running short as the day progresses.

TEA

Moya Matcha Oleandrów 6

Set in a minimalistic, meditative space, visit for a wondrously chilled-out journey into the world of matcha. Specializing in organic matcha and leaf teas, there’s also a range of organic products and ceramics to buy, as well as wonderful miso cookies to nibble while engaging in the whole matcha ritual.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE LEFT, PRESS MATERIAL, RIGHT BY KEVIN DEMARIA

a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu – a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location.

Review

LA VEGANA

Vietnamese-inspired, but featuring no shortage of other Asian options, this plant-based restaurant proves an unexpected hit…

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

LOOK From the very point of entry, there’s something likeable about La Vegana. Interior-wise, money has been spent wisely on a design that blends teal colors with wood finishes, wicker extras and statuettes of kneeling deities: you wouldn’t call it visionary, but it’s a pleasant, roomy space that partners well with the concept and cuisine.

MENU In a word: indecipherable.

Looking flimsy and a little tatty, the menu transpires to offer an exhaustive range of Asian-titled dishes accompanied by Polish language descriptions that will test your language knowledge to the max. And although gluten-free dishes are clearly marked, there’s no delineation (that we could see) made between vegan and vegetarian options. A bamboozling work of Byzantine complexity, we’ve not seen a menu this challenging for years. But think of that as a charming quirk, for it turns out to be not a bad thing at all. warsawinsider.pl

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La Vegana ul. Zgoda 4, fb.com/lavegana4

“

FOOD As bewildering as the menu is, its sheer incomprehensibility encourages guests to throw darts blindfolded before ordering up lots of little dishes. That’s what we did, and we weren’t disappointed. Light but with the perfect amount of crunch, the tempura was one such star, while the kimchi was among

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the best we’ve had in recent months: a pungent, tangy mass of spiced, fermented cabbage.

But even more successful were the nem rolls; tofu bulgogi; and yuba cha (fried tofu skin). Alive with fragrant, delicate flavors, all three give you pause to salute the kitchen. Irresistibly moreish, you peck away in a state of gentle happiness.

FINAL VERDICT ‘Big bowls’ weigh in at around zł. 30 whilst small bowls are half that, price tags which enable even skimpy budgets to order a feast. And a feast is exactly what this is. Best enjoyed with several little bowls sprayed out across the table, it’s an exotic adventure that feels brilliantly put together. Immensely satisfying, and with friendly service to boot, it’s an experience that’s hard not to enjoy. Opened over summer, La Vegana provides proof that Warsaw’s plantbased sector is as exciting now as it was when it first exploded.

Impressed? Yes we were.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Immensely satisfying, and with friendly service to boot, it’s an experience that’s hard not to enjoy...

Eat! listings adriatic MUNJA

Positioned in the heart of Warsaw’s flourishing new business quarter, both locations have been styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings: floor-to-ceiling windows lead into slick interiors that feel high on gloss and polish. But there is warmth as well with light woods and tan leather the dominant colors. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adriatic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames – for our chosen highlight, order the lamb cevapi or Dinarko mussels. ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60 (Browary Warszawskie)

author’s cuisine ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored.

That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul. Mokotowska 48

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage

of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

BROWAR WARSZAWSKI

Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique details.

This place is beautiful. But while most visit for the beer, the food is a winner as well. Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, not to mention the best fish’n’chips we’ve had outside of England. ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

DYLETANCI

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined.

The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

KLONN

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul.

Oleandrów 8

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper.

Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant

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Eat! listings essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

ROZBRAT 20

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite writeups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.

ul. Rozbrat 20

bakeries BĘDZIE DOBRZE PIEKARNIA

The revolving door of regulars makes for a kinetic café / bakery experience, and that feeling is upped by the sight of shelves featuring a curated selection of delicious delicacies from Poland’s top producers – granola by Wikk Me, preserves from cool out-of-town restaurants such as Monka and Kocharz, and nutty butters from brands like Sticky Blenders. But it’s the baked goodies that really reward the visitor with our gold button awarded to their shokupan (Japanese milk bread), what-rye baguettes, and drożdżówka sweet rolls. ul. Puławska 23/25

CAŁA W MĄCE

“My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!” Milling the

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flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul.

Krasińskiego 18

chinese PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1

comfort food BURGER BAR

Warsaw has come full-circle: years

after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43

FAZIR KEBAB

Just outside of Warsaw, find Fazir sitting diagonally across the road from Michalin train station. Set in a wooden shed-like structure, its unpromising look belies the quality.

Order a traditional coffee brewed in pans of sand before waiting for kebabs cooked over flame and charcoal. The XXL is the size of a baseball bat and absolutely the best kebab we’ve yet tasted in Poland! ul.

Piłsudskiego 40 (Józefów)

KUR & WINO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz, as does a terrace crowded with crates and palms. ul.

Andersa 21

POGROMCY MEATÓW

Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

Eat! listings desserts AM’OR EKLERY I WINO

You want to covet the eclairs from each possible angle, recording the results on your phone before sending the pics out to all of your contacts. Featuring embellishments such as a swirly rainbow-colored unicorn mane, these are elegant creations filled with cream that’s so light you suspect it might float away.

Looking dashing in its shades of pastel pink and gold trim, the place looks the part as well. ul. Kurcza 23/31

BOZZO

As Poland’s first store specializing solely in ice cream and eclairs Bozzo have gained a devoted following in next to no time. Opened after ten-months of product testing, the results have reaped dividends with the French-style eclairs earning rave reviews. The work of pastry chef Adrian Edward Monik, the raspberry éclair is our hands-down winner.

Chmielna 27/31 & Dzielna 64

financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62

MOD DONUTS

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27

SŁODKI BEZ

Cake: good. Sugar: bad. We all know that. But what you might not know of is the existence of Słodki Bez, a small little store specializing in sugar-free desserts. And it’s not just sugar they’ve dispensed of altogether, but also white flour, gluten, lactose and all the other synthetic nasties that we’re meant to dislike. Using natural substitutes, find a rich array of cakes and sweets such as vegan banoffee pie, chocolate nut cake, chickpea

brownies, macarons, tarts and pralines. ul. Hoża 54, slodkibez.pl

f&b hubs BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Vying for the title of the year’s most exciting opening, find Browary in a revamped 19th century brewery once operated by Haberbusch and Schiele. Along with the sensitive retention and refit of original properties and elements such as the Villa Schiele, the Browary area has blossomed anew with features such as the vaulted brick cellars turned over to house a food hall.

Awash with food and drink options that include, among others, a sports bar and restaurant owned by Robert Lewandowski, as well as a three-floor flagship brewpub, it’s a place that’s as ambitious as it is aspirational. Of its numerous food and entertainment attractions, props also go to a cabaret-style ‘show restaurant’ and the marvelous Japonka restaurant and store. ul. Grzybowska 60

KUKUŁKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This is arguably Warsaw’s most adored dessert stop, and though cream puffs are the specialty, they know a thing or two about eclairs as well. Using seasonal ingredients, recent winners have included a barnstorming blueberry concoction.

ul. Mokotowska 52

MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches,

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Eat! listings CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Set in the revitalized space of a 19th century vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer. An island of prosperity in the otherwise largely gritty Praga suburb, props go to the Koneser Grill and Bombaj Masala. With the pandemic still lurking in the background, Koneser’s wide open plaza acts in its favor. Pl.

Konesera

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

A magnificent reinvention of a historic power plant that once kept the city fed with electricity today, it’s feeding Warsaw something a helluva’ lot more tastier. Comfortingly stringent in their hygiene practices, you swing in for a food court that’s dazzling in both its offer and visual impact: neon is king!

Cocktail bars, a craft beer point and an exhaustive selection of street food units (e.g. Philly cheese steak!) give cause to visit, but beyond these quite copious attractions, it is the retention of its historic character contrasted against the newly inserted elements that makes it such a visually enticing, standout hub. ul. Dobra 42

HALA GWARDII

Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market outside, find a natural gravity effect that works to benefit both Gwardii and Hala Mirowska. Operating only weekends, Gwardii has become a well-loved addition to Warsaw’s gastro scene, with its farmers’ market working well with the food booths on the other side of this historic hall. Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1

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HALA KOSZYKI

Introducing the absolutely bleeding obvious, Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays. Still highly influential, it remains one of the places in which to be seen. ul. Koszykowa 63

FORT MOKOTÓW

If you’ve not visited Fort Mokotów before, shame on you. Like entering a secret world, a potholed lane flanked by scraggly bushes opens up to reveal a former Tsarist era military complex whose battered brick fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies, art studios and assorted creative think tanks. Food and drink also play a role here, with the lead taken by Żywa Kuchnia, an eatery that promises to regenerate the mind and body with their “bio-active, healing foods”. Schodki, meanwhile, is just about the most atmospheric gem you’ll ever wish to find: a place of battered brick, creaking wood and tangled vines, it’s a sublime setting for a bottle or three. ul.

Racławicka 99

FORT 8

The penchant for reviving historical addresses and filling them with food and drink concepts has become a nationwide fixation, and Fort 8 stands as an example to all.

Set at the point where Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów all meet, this 19th century Tsarist barracks has been buffed up spectacularly and its vaulted units infilled with workshops, stores and restaurants.

Smashed sideways by the pandemic, the return of this upmarket bastion is good news for those that

appreciated the charms of Dziruka od Klucza, Fort Bistro and Wine Corner. ul. Fort Służew 1B

NORBLIN FOOD TOWN

Behold, Warsaw’s newest food hub! Set in the sympathetically restored Norblin Factory, you’re right to expect a banging atmosphere – food-wise, Tex-Mex, Israeli, Uzbek, Thai and Indian tastes are just some to look forward to. And next door, find the celebrated Bio Bazar We’re bringing you the full lowdown next issue, so watch this space. Żelazna 51/53

fine dining EPOKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other.

You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso has used the lockdown to simplify

Eat! listings his menu, a work which gives regional suppliers an all-star role.

But ‘simple’ is a relative term.

The Europejski Grill has not lost its sophistication, as proved by a summer visit that saw us bowled over by a as a hazelnut soup with fig leaves and wild rocket and an artichoke confit served with a lightly grilled shallot cured for six weeks. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

NOBU

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

NOLITA

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class.

Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit?

Two words: Jacek Grochowina.

Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul.

Wilcza 46

SIGNATURE

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate

of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul.

Poznańska 15

SZÓSTKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures.

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

georgian RUSIKO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

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Eat! listings greek & turkish MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos.

While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality.

ul. Londyńska 16

SANTORINI

Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul.

Egipska 7

indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA

Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes

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with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

CURRY HOUSE

Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54

KARMA

With an entrance half-hidden behind a little cabin, find it set within a hulking Socialist Realist block inside a unit that once ticked by selling wedding dresses. Now, this address sells something a lot more valuable: curry. Though a little drab inside, the curry is a contender for the Insider’s favorite of 2021. Outside the more generic items, Southern Indian cuisine is a specialty, and that’s affirmed by golden donut-shaped wada snacks, idli lentil rolls, fluffy uttapam pancakes and the altogether thinner dosa. ul. Nowolipki 14 (enter from Jana Pawła II)

italian DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their

spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

korean THE COOL CAT

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

K-BAR

Co-owner Czesio has injected his life, soul (or is that Seoul?) and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling.

Like being buzzed into an artist’s

Eat! listings loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried.

For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab are nothing short of bliss. ul. Piękna 28/34

if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

latin & spanish polish (modern) CEVICHE BAR

With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander.

The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos.

Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4

mexican EL POPO

Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. ul.

Senatorska 27

LA SIRENA

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but

BARON THE FAMILY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life.

Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best!

Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

BEZ GWIAZDEK

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul. Wiślana 8

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej

Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin.

It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

THE EATERY

Terrazzo surfaces, orb-like lights and a clear white color palette give The Eatery a comfortable look that’s well-suited to a modern Polish menu delivered by chef Bartłomiej Trojanowski. Highlights from our visit – and there were many – included panko-crusted potato with creamy cottage cheese and pinches of charlock; art-like Ruskie pierogi; and a mushroom soup the like of which we haven’t tried before. Quite simply, think of The Eatery as the most unexpected pleasure you’ll discover all year. ul. Ostrobramska 73E

THE FARM

Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. ul. Mokotowska 8

ŹRÓDŁO

The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address.

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality.

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Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam. With mains around the mid-30s, it’s outstanding value as well. ul. Targowa 81

polish (classic) PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31

steak houses BYKBAR

Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. ul. Rozbrat 8

BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital. ul. Żurawia 22

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HOŻA

Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows.

A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A

KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going.

Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29

(Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. ul. Walecznych 64

thai THAI THAI

A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best.

Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors

and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. Pl. Teatralny 3

vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS

Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come. ul.

Mokotowska 58

Drink!

IT TAKES TWO As Valentine’s creeps closer, we take a look

at Warsaw’s best choices for drinks for two…

AFTER… THE CINEMA Charlie Kinoteka Pl. Defilad 1

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF CHARLIE

Every cocktail afficionado will know the Gatsby-esque Charlie on Mokotowska, but they’ve now opened a new location in the Palace of Culture. When you’re done with watching a film at Kinoteka (showing on Valentine’s: The Worst Man in the World), then slip into Charlie for sensual cocktails served in a breath-takingly plush environment. Leaving with PKiN looming above is itself an experience.

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Valentine's Day Jazz…

UP YOUR NIGHT Jassmine

Wilcza 73 (Nobu Hotel)

Dark and lush on the eye, Jassmine could easily play a cameo in a David Lynch flick: a more enthralling jazz bar you won’t find in Warsaw.

Already revealing their plans for Valentine’s, those checking-in will be doing so to listen to the Yilian Cañizares Resilience Trio.

Something…

FUN & FLIRTY VHS Bar

Poznańska 7

It’s back to the 80s in VHS, a pint-sized brick cellar embellished with flamingo pink neons and super fun cocktails fixed by staff in zany shirts.

And then there’s the matter of the wackiest toilet you’ll find in the city – you’ll be relieving yourself under the grinning gaze of Mitch Buchanan…

Aura

Hoża 27

A candidate for Warsaw’s smallest bar, this little corner of Hoża seduces with its sensually exotic air. Featuring a Moroccan-style design, it’s simultaneously snug and warming yet glamorously on-trend. The cocktails fit the mood perfectly.

Enjoy…

THE VIEW

Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel)

Soft on the eye, its peachy-pink colors exude a stylish warmth – think elegant and luxurious but in a way that’s subtle and discreet. Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the floaty ambience is lent further oomph by what we reckon to be the best lux cocktails in the city. The world class standards extend upstairs – make a night of it and check-in at reception to enjoy the five star comforts of the Bristol Hotel.

Doing so, you’ll be joining famous couples like JFK & Jackie.

Before…

AN OLD TOWN WALK

Loreta

Bar & Book s Podwale

When it comes to rooftop bars, there are certainly better and more dramatic views than those offered by Loreta – but this gets our vote not so much for the terrace wedged in the corner, but rather because the rest of the place just feels so right. Eclectic art, funky décor, inventive cocktails and a great playlist serve to click together and ensure a great night for two.

For fireside cocktails in a book-lined, wood-paneled parlor then look no further than Bar & Books. Soothing and sophisticated, trust the intuitive black tie service to find the drink for the moment. Given the location, it goes without saying that any Valentine’s evening spent here should conclude with a moonlit walk around the Old Town’s charming, misty streets.

Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

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Lane’s Gin Bar

Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2022

Wąski Dunaj 20

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE ED WIGHT, OPPOSITE COURTESY OF REGINABAR

Get… INTIMATE

Stay…

THE NIGHT

Valentine's Day Planning…

A NIGHT IN?

Natural Rascal Bottle Shop Hoża 61 (enter from ul. E. Plater)

Founded by interior designer Dominika Buck and film producer Radek Drabik, Warsaw’s most talked about importer have continued to make a splash ever since setting up a bricksand-mortar location on a trending stretch of lively Emili Plater. Specializing in natural wines sourced from small, artisanal wineries, the diverse and unconventional portfolio is rendered understandable by the helpful staff.

If you’re planning a night of home romance, stopping by here should be mandatory for all.

premier burlesque bar (and regular host of forensics lectures) you can most likely expect something extraordinary. Enjoy the show in a skull-decorated interior that summons the spirit of Edgar Allan Poe. Often touting macabre names, the original cocktails are a conversation starter as well.

When…

YOU’RE BY THE RIVER Kandela

Dobra 42 (Elektrownia)

Going…

SHOPPING? Ale Wino

Mokotowska 48

With its ritzy pre-war tenements and posh perfumeries and boutiques, no street evokes the same atmosphere as Mokotowska: here, you understand why Warsaw was once known as the Paris of the East. At Ale Wino, that feeling continues when you sidle through its labyrinth of corridors before setting your shopping bags down to enjoy food and wine that’s long been known as some of the best in the country.

Visiting…

THE OPERA? Bubbles

Piłsudskiego 9

A special date at the opera deserves a special drink after (or before) – find that at Bubbles, a bar-bistro whose très romantique ambiance is given extra glow through its dimmed lighting and warming sense of clutter. Moreover, you’ve got oysters and snails cooked to perfection. Meanwhile, the prodigious choice of champagne and sparkling wine really earns them their name.

Be… DIFFERENT Worek Kości Bagatela 10

There’s no word yet what Worek Kości’s Valentine’s offer will include, but as the city’s

Take… YOUR TINDER Reginabar

Koszykowa 1

With its retro NYC vibe, you can count on Regina Bar to deliver something fun, and this they’ve done by unleashing a new cocktail menu inspired by theclassic pop tracks of the Noughties, 90s and 80s before them. Titled Girls On Top, the menu is as fun and glitzy as the bar and the people inside it.

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Valentine's Day On a foggy February, a riverside walk can be both bracing and magical – doubly so if you combine it with nosing around the Museum of Modern Art. After, warm-up in Kandela, the upmarket bar found to the left of the neon-lit food hall in Elektrownia Powiśle.

Seeing…

ART? Long Bar

Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

Having ticked off a trip to the Zachęta Gallery, cross the windswept expanses of Pl. Piłsudskiego before settling into the Raffles Europejski. The public area’s themselves aren’t short on pricey domestic art, but it’s to the Long Bar you must head. The swoon-worthy design befits the Raffles brand, as do the lovingly composed cocktails. Whoever you’re with is going to feel a million bucks.

On… A FIRST DATE? La Buvette

Mochnackiego 4/43

There’s every chance it won’t be open on Valentine’s Night, but if that’s the case then store the address in your head. French-run, this side street charmer is a place feels romantic but relaxed rather than over-the-top. Quality-driven and authentic, its an ideal spot for a no-pressure date.

When…

YOUR STATUS IS COMPLICATED

Feeling…

RETRO?

Paloma Inn

Poznańska 21

Not much different to stepping inside an episode of The Jetsons, Paloma is a young, fun celebration of all things retro – but never does it feel stupid.

The cocktails are gorgeous, and you should enjoy them by sharing fondue and talking of the future.

The Shamrock

Every list needs a wildcard, so let the Shamrock be ours. First things first: this Irish pub is as basic as they come – and as for the toilet, it can be seriously distressing. But hey, people visit because this place is bloody good fun. Aimed more at a young international crowd (think Erasmus students, under-30s, etc.) rather than gloomy old men discussing Brexit, that’s reflected by events such as their Valentine’s ‘traffic light party’. Basically, turn up wearing green to announce you’re single, red to flag yourself as taken, and yellow if it’s complex…

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See… THE SPIRIT OF NEW WARSAW Piano Bar

Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)

Filled with glittering skyscrapers and revamped factory complexes, the atmosphere of New Warsaw comes alive around the heart of Wola. Crowned with a show-stealing chandelier, and simply oozing sophistication, the Piano Bar has come to be one of the city’s top check-ins; mixed and fixed by black-tie servers, you visit this venue to be wowed by the drinks and vibe.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA

Zgoda 5

after work classics CENTRAL BAR

The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and four years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

DZIEŃ I NOC

Looking insta friendly with its interior of brickwork, succulents and marble-topped tables, Dzień I Noc have earned a cult following since opening at the height of the pandemic. Offering authors cocktails and mainstream beers, it offers the promise of a solid night out in these paranoid times. Pl. Mirowski 1

ELEKTROWNIA POWISŁE

The indoor food hall indoors opens out into a sea of neon signs and a sleek, professional crowd posing for selfies over cocktails. And yes, drinks are every bit as important here as the food. Choose between a craft beer vending station or the two principle bars that bookend the complex: Centrala Bar at one end or the more cocktail-driven Kandela at the other.

(E3) ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapow-

isle.com

LEGENDS

Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to

watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. ul. Emilii Plater 25,

legendsbar.pl

WOZOWNIA

Wozownia brings together a good-looking crowd inside a 200-year-old carriage house whose competent cocktails and cheapy Prosecco keep it busy. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Pl.

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cocktails AURA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons. ul. Hoża 27

BAR WIECZORNY

Fixed by some of the biggest names in Polish cocktail culture, the cocktails are a serious biz here and neatly complimented by a beautiful garden set with crates and little lights dangling from the trees. Mokotów doesn’t have the best reputation for nightlife, but in Wieczorny the area has a star of some legend. ul. Wiśniowa 46

CHARLIE

Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. ul. Mokotowska 39

EL KOKTEL

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. ul.

Wojciecha Górskiego 9

FLAMING BISTRO

With its perfect white colors, the glass-fronted oblong form of this pearl of interwar modernism has an elegant sophistication to it that’s ravishing to look at. But it becomes even more so out the back. It’s here you’ll find a garden that’s been in-filled with well-spaced wooden decks hiding amid the vegetation and plant life. A garden in the truest sense of the word, the best view is from the balcony on top. Accessed via a glorious spiral staircase, it’s from here you gaze down on the impeccable Saska crowd that gathers below to sip sparkly wines, house lemonades and author’s cocktails. ul. Francuska 2

LONG BAR

Posh doesn’t begin to cover it.

Clad in smooth marble, natural

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Drink! listings oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. ul. Krakowskie

NOLA

LANE’S GIN BAR

nolabar.pl

Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

Perfectly proportioned, it’s intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks when seated at a bar that presents a motherlode of glimmering bottles set against a mosaic that gently riffs on the Hotel Bristol’s Art Nouveau and Art Deco spirit. But do not think of this as simply a hotel bar. World class in style and offer (and prices!), head barman Karol Rybacki has mixed for names like DiCaprio, Connery, Rihanna and Madonna.

His inspirational drinks are enjoyed in a high-ceilinged room that looks achingly sensual with its plush pink fabrics and stunning geometric light installation. ul. Krakowskie

Przedmieście 42/44

LORETA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher.

As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup. ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

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NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana.

Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe. ul. Wilcza 43,

PALOMA INN

the avant garde. ul. Koszykowa 1

VHS BAR

An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff, and enjoy them on a pavement terrace that teems with life and laughter once evening strikes. Poznańska 7

WARSZAWA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found in a saucer-shaped building that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. It’s nothing less than super cool. ul.

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, it’s a joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curvaceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’.

Groovy muzak provides the audio, whilst the crowd is young, international and thirsty – the author’s cocktails are great, with our winner being the Green Bubble (melon liquor, cognac, tarragon, lemon juice and fizzy water). For food, order fondue or herring served with vegan caviar in the layered style of an éclair.

craft beer

REGINABAR

BEER STATION CENTRUM

ul. Poznańska 21

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust.

Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with

Kruczkowskiego 3B

Traipse down a plunging set of stairs to reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness.

Proudly Belarussian run, the welcome from the owners is warm, sincere and never short on cheer.

Stay here for an hour and you’ll feel you’ve known them for years. For booze, there’s twelve beers on tap and these include some excellent craft swigs along with more standard drinks. ul. Lwowska 17

Drink! listings BROWAR WARSZAWSKI

Beer is central to the swank-looking Browar Warszawski, and running that side of operations is the skilled Dawid Bąk. There’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Recognizing that not everyone likes beer (!), they also fix a mean cocktail – the Browar Sour, based on Ostoya vodka, is brill.

Feeling reassuringly cosmopolitan, it’s become one of the Insider’s favorite watering holes. ul. Haberbus-

cha i Schielego 2

CHMIELARNIA MARSZAŁKOWSKA

A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. ul.

Marszałkowska 10/16

CRAFT BEER MURANÓW

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should.

Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers. ul. Andersa 23

CZEŚĆ

It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of

‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage)

DRUGIE DNO

To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. ul. Nowogrodzka 4

JABEERWOCKY

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced

by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul. Nowogrodzka 25

PINTA

Taking the space once occupied by the ill-fated Mikkeller Bar, Pinta’s flagship bears many of the hallmarks of the previous tenant: a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and chunks of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant. Pinta, if you don’t know, can be considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft beer scene, and this bar gives their portfolio the attention it deserves. ul.

Chmielna 7/9

RAJ PIWOSZA

For those living on the city’s right side, Raj Piwosza became a legend of the lockdown – an off-license and general lifeline selling an emphatic choice of craft beers, niche wines and other artisanal liquid somethings. Perhaps driven by the discovery of the area’s thirst for their offerings, they’ve gone another step by launching a bar with a similarly exhaustive selection of drinkies. Set in a newish residential development on the frontline of Grochów, Gocław, Saska Kępa, it’s a sure bet to become a neighborhood essential. ul. Bora-Komorowskiego 56A

SAME KRAFTY

Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. ul. Nowomiejska 10

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Drink! listings dive bars 2KOŁA

Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B

CZESKA BASZTA

Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow.

Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays.

Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

MIEJSCE CHWILA

Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers.

Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon

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of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. ul. Żurawia 47

NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos. Find them through the passageway at Nowy Świat 26.

OFFSIDE

Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. ul. Brzeska 16

PARADOX

Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. ul. Anielewicza 2

ŚWIETLICA

Long and narrow, dark and murky,

it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

W OPARACH ABSURDU

Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. ul. Ząbkowska 6

ULUBIONA

Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months. Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. ul. Nowy

Świat 27

for gentlemen 1 SUN SALON

For something naughty but nice 1 Sun Salon offers body-to-body tantric massage with just about the happiest ending you could possibly wish for. Staffed with flighty college girls, and equally welcoming to stag groups as they are business travelers, head here to wallow in plush VIP rooms while every whim and fancy is satisfied and served. ul.

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Drink! listings late night legends BAR PACYFIK

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. ul.

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BAR STUDIO

The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Pl. Defilad 1

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. ul. Poznańska 12

FOTON

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Looking good with a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed, think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad either with Latin American street bites and a dynamic cocktail list involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. Most of all though, it’s the atmosphere you return for. ul.

Wilcza 9A

GRAM

Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... ul.

Marszałkowska 45/49

KLUBOKAWIARNIA TOWARZYSKA

Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film. Craft beers and a smoking zone earn bonus points. ul. Zwycięzców 49

THE SHAMROCK

The Shamrock is little more than a shabby bare room lit by a greenish Carlsberg sign. But the dearth of aesthetic thrills is compensated via its atmosphere. Find a melting pot of nationalities slopping beers over each other while shouting

their orders to Curtis and his family behind the bar – high on noise and bellowed banter, the atmosphere cranks yet further whenever Curtis grabs his guitar to lead his audience in song. Paying more attention to craic than interior bric-a-brac, it’s a lively night and one enjoyed by an audience that’s largely under 30. ul.

Zgoda 5

live entertainment CENTRUM ZARZĄDZANIA ŚWIATEM

Covering a couple of levels (and including a secret room snuck behind a bookcase), this social-cultural space is best described as a composition of molecules that celebrate the suburb: balustrades from Targowa street, street lights from Park Praski and no shortage of murals from local talents. And the toilets? Step inside a cargo container. Something of a multi-use environment, you might walk into a flamenco evening one night and improv comedy performances the next. ul. Okrzei 26

HYDROZAGADKA / CHMURY

Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the low-ceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

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Drink! listings KLUB POGŁOS

This alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12

PLAN B

Plan B is the quintessence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela)

WOREK KOŚCI

H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. ul. Bagatela 10

specialty coffee COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white

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colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-theclock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Wilcza 42

COFFEEDESK PRÓŹNA

Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored pre-war Próżna. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops. ul. Próźna 7

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul.

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COPHI II

Already established on Hoża as one of Warsaw’s favorite sources of specialty coffee, Cophi have cast their net a little further (and we mean a little – as in 500 meters or so) to cover Lwowska.

And what a gem it is: personally designed by Uri, the owner, find a

bijou space lavished in shades of candy cotton pink and rich, forest green; finished with a healthy, heavy dose of fresh wood, poster art and patterned floor tiles, it’s a place you’d like to hang around in.

ul. Lwowska 2A

DOBRE MATERIA

Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working.

Coffee comes from the likes of HAYBE, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes – from vegan producers such as Miód Makina and Sadki – should not be overlooked either. ul. Nowolipki 13

FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul. Andersa 6

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in

Drink! listings a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends. ul. Niemcewicza 3

FORUM

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. ul. Fabryczna 28/30

KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK

This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,”

says the owner), is a thing of legend. ul. Łucka 18

RELAKS

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul.

Puławska 48

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural

by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking

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Drink! listings edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. ul. Wilcza 17

ROŚLINA

Set in the heart of Stare Bielany – an attractive, inter-war development not dissimilar to the leafier parts of Saska and Żoliborz – there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the golden autumn head to the magical little garden to the side. ul.

Schroegera 80

SACRED MILL BREW BAR

Through a heavy glass door visitors enter a space that’s minimal in size and design – lots of dark, hard surfaces offset by whites and charcoal colors and a few green succulents. As a look, it’s clean and intelligent and entirely fitting with the area. But you ain’t here for the design. The winner here is coffee, and coffee as roasted by Sacred Mill since February of 2021. Focused but not limited to African coffees, find this crew following Nordic roasting practice which, it transpires, means light roasted coffees of consistent quality. ul. Grzybowska 43A

STOR

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul.

Tamka 33

U KRAWCA

Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as

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a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. ul. Siennicka 3

wine bars ALE WINO

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. ul.

Mokotowska 48

BUBBLES

Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance.

A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Damn right there’s a lot to like at Bubbles, but there’s even more to love. Pl. Piłsudskiego 9

CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE

Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu, too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the

wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab. ul.

Koszykowa 49A

LA BUVETTE

La Buvette sits like a hidden gem, nestled on a charming street that radiates off Stara Ochota’s Pl. Narutowicza – tree-lined and looking like a cloned version of a picturesque arrondissement of Paris, it’s a pleasure to sit on the terrace. And if you’ve got a tiny dog, you’ll fit right in! Come evening, pick through boards of gourmet cheese whilst sipping on a curated choice of French wines picked by co-owner Harold, a native of Strasbourg. ul.

Mochnackiego 4/43

MIELŻYŃSKI WINE BAR

Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. ul. Burakowska 5/7

RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ

Formerly a restaurant serving pre-war cuisine, Rausz na Wilczej used the pandemic to reposition themselves as a wine store / bar, building on their previous reputation for sourcing quirky labels you wouldn’t have necessarily heard of before. “In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” In addition to their Spanish, Italian and French collections, find excellent wines from less familiar destinations: Slovenia, Czech, Austria and Georgia. ul. Wilcza 27

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SAUNA WISŁA

WINTER WARMER

With Warsaw experiencing its harshest winter for years, news that a riverside sauna has launched has been lapped up by the public.

Created as part of the city’s Civic Budget, and overseen by the team at Miami Wars, the project is being dubbed the first floating sauna on the Wisła. Offering scenic waterfront views of the harbor, the intimate facility is free at certain times and open from 6 a.m. to midnight.

Available also for private hire, added bonuses include an onsite lifeguard should you dare to take an icy dip in the waters outside.

Sauna Wisła Port Czerniakowski 136, miamiwars.pl/sauna-wisla

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LAST CHANCE

EXHIBIT: NIKIFOR Wrapping up on Feb 27th, you’re in the last chance saloon to view the extraordinary works of Nikifor…

O

ften judged to be one of the greatest naïve artists of all time, the Ethnographic Museum explores the works of Nikifor in a temporary exhibition that’s set to close its doors at the end of February. Presenting 135 works made by the artist on paper using watercolors, gouache, pencils and crayons, the exhibition covers an exhaustive range of topics explored by the painter: landscapes, urban and fantasy architecture, train stations, interiors of temples and stores, saintly figures and so forth.

Though varied in their content, the paintings bear all the hallmarks of Nikifor

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and the influence of Greek Catholicism, the Lemko culture and his hometown of Krynica. Blessed with copious natural talent and a superb grasp of color, his works have been appreciated by a number of eminent Polish artists such as Jan Cybis, Alfons Karny and Edward Dwurnik. In fact, according to Aleksander Jackowski, “over a thousand articles have been written about Nikifor, and four films made and several books published – just about more than any other Polish painter and probably more than any creator of naïve art.”

Born in 1895, his mother, a Lemko, worked as a maid in Krynica’s many guest-

houses whilst his father was unknown. Often perceived as disabled due to his speech impediment and poor hearing, he lived a largely lonely life and used art not just as a way to earn a living, but also to connect to a world that he didn’t seem born for.

Only through a combination of talent, self-belief, vivid imagination and iron will was he able to achieve success.

Reputedly ‘discovered’ by Roman Turyn in 1930, it was this Lviv-based painter that gave Nikifor his big break, and a 1931 exhibition in Lviv was followed the next year by a show in Paris.

With his career disrupted by the war, peace brought no respite and Nikifor was forcibly resettled in 1947 as part of Operation Vistula, a government program that saw the Lemkos ripped from their ancestral homelands.

Only in the final years of his life did his work meet the widespread appreciation it warranted, with arguably his greatest living moment coming with a successful exhibition at Warsaw’s Zachęta Gallery.

A victim of circumstance, it wasn’t until after he died that Nikifor would truly come to prominence. Alicja Mironiuk Nikolska, the exhibition’s curator, says: “With this exhibition, I wanted to draw attention to the issue of including people with disabilities in the circulation of culture, as well as to educate people about the presence and role of ethnic minorities in out nationwide image.”

PRESS MATERIAL (4)

Ethnographic Museum ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasto 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

UNSEEN & UNSUNG Ongoing until midMarch, this temporary exhibition examines the lives of Warsaw’s domestic female workforce…

N

ot so much overlooked as forgotten entirely, the Museum of Warsaw’s latest exhibition (Unseen – Stories of Warsaw’s Servants) seeks to cast light on the women that worked as domestic servants in the Polish capital. Numbering 40,000 at the beginning of the 20th century, it was these females that “occupied backstage positions in the theater of everyday life.”

Marginalized by history, these women attended to household chores, cleaned houses and apartments, cooked meals and did the laundry. Covering six rooms in all, over 400 historical items and contemporary

artworks have been arranged to tell their story in a linear manner reflective of the journey that the domestic worker endured from the moment they arrived in Warsaw through to their recruitment and the performance of their daily chores.

Along the way, visitors will learn of their complex relationships with their landlords and employees, the role of trade unions and charities not to mention their representation in the media of the time. Leaving no stone unturned, the exhibition also focuses in on domestic workers during the PRL period and demonstrates just how valuable they were to the life of the city in the decades preceding. warsawinsider.pl

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learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics.

Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact

admissions@aswarsaw.org

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education.

BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

18.12.2018 12:32

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age.

ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education

with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15.

The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and

accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6

years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

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the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728

939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the

world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma.

All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:

admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applica-

NEW NURSERY GROUPS Wilanów and Mokotów location Applications now open! www.tep.edu.pl

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admissions@tep.edu.pl

696 904 687

tions from Nursery to Year 9. Please

email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education.

They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as

children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning

environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15.

The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL Treating

pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta

131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

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WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided.

Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów

4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna

as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A

(grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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shopping accessories BEAUTYLAB POLSKA

Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. beautylablondon.pro

EYEBAR

At Eyebar the expert team meets needs through their perfect eyebrow care and makeup products. If you dream about having the perfect brows, their sets are available from Eyebar salons or online at our website. eyebar.pl

GLAMSTORE

Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colors you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelry line. ul. Narbutta 83

LEKKO

Lekko offer four specialized oils that are strong but gentle and sharpen the senses. Using CBD extracts, they strongly focus on concepts of selfcare and wellbeing. made from the highest quality crops and sourced from farms run in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture, all products are approved by verified labs. lekko.com

SCHUBERT

Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

fashion

Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

experiences ARKADIA

MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE

Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry,

Not many Polish malls do it better.

Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al.

Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

PLAC UNII

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

MYSIA 3

Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

DISCOVER POLIN MUSEUM warsawinsider.pl

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space.

The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

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rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge.

The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created

by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon.

Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day.

Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street.

That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country.

Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced.

But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

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4 9 km

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

St

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

ska bow

Grzy

2

4 a zysk tokr Swie

ta

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

9

11

1

8 2

3

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

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3 4 km

7

MAP 5

6

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

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Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

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Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

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This Month HEART OF THE MATTER!

With Valentine’s Day approaching, refamiliarize yourself with some of the city’s best-known hearts…

CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3 As per his dying wish, Chopin’s heart was smuggled back to Warsaw after the composer died in France. Preserved in a crystal jar filled with cognac, the grisly relic was then encased inside a column in the Church of the Holy Cross. Surviving the Warsaw Uprising after it was reputedly hidden in the town of Milanowek, the heart was returned to the church after the war only to be briefly exhumed in 2014 in a secret ceremony undertaken to assess its general state. Swiftly reinterred thereafter, its next check-up has been scheduled for 2064.

I LOVE WARSAW!

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MOSTEK ZAKOCHANYCH

ul. Przyczółkowa 394 Unveiled in 2012, this cutesy12-meter bridge is best enjoyed at night when fully illuminated. Embellished with three hearts that arc over the dinky walkway, it’s become a tradition for couples to snap their own lovelock to the railings before heading further to explore the achingly romantic gardens of Wilanów Palace.

SHUTTERSTOCK(3)

Pl. Europejski It was the Warsaw Spire that first set the ball rolling in terms of Wola’s redevelopment, but it wasn’t just the skyscraper itself that proved a success. On ground level, the public space surrounding the Spire has become symbolic of the area’s second life, and no feature is more loved than the heart-shaped Kocham Warszawę sign. But that’s not the only heard on Pl. Europejski. Look up to see another presented on a mural designed

by Belgian comic book guru Francois Schuiten and the renowned poster artist Rafał Olbinski.

WARSAW'S BIGGEST For Warsaw at its best, visit us at Hala Gwardii for good vibes, the city's top food market, international street food tastes, traditional Polish products and a busy list of events aimed at young and old alike – winter doesn’t have to be boring!

For more, see: www.facebook.com/halagwardii

BUZZ Open Friday through Sunday Plac Żelaznej Bramy halagwardii.pl

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

#306 INDEKS 334901 ISSN:1643-1723

ZŁ.10

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FEBRUARY 2022 Features:

Also...

The Warsaw Hotels That Changed History! – p. 22 Valentine’s special: Drinks For Two – p. 55

1930s Warsaw – In Color!

– p. 16 Interview: Insta-legend Mustache Lens – p. 8

Contents February 2022

Reviews: EAT!

Amun Kebab – p. 35 DOMO BAKE – p. 38 Paczki – p. 40 Japanese Roundup – p. 42 La Vegana – p. 45

DRINK!

Valentine's Day Drinks For Two – p. 55

DISCOVER Sauna Wisła – p. 67 Exhibit: Nikifor at the Ethnographic Museum – p. 68

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, COVER PHOTO BY MATEUSZ WĄS

Exhibit: Unseen at the Museum of Warsaw – p. 69

WHEN IT’S ENCASED IN ICE and coughing with smog, there can’t be many harder jobs than trying to sell Warsaw during those bleak weeks of February. But from a visual standpoint, it’s not a complete catastrophe: in this winter murk, the city takes on an intriguing Gotham-esque look and it’s this atmosphere that’s so powerfully captured by this month’s cover photographer, the inimitable Mustache Lens. And he’s not the only photographer to be spotlighted in this issue. Known as one of the country’s best colorizers of historic images, we’ve also taken the chance to meet up with Mariusz Zając to discuss his work. Elsewhere, we’ve uncovered the secret histories of Warsaw’s hotels, explored the city’s Japanese food scene, overdosed on donuts and made your Valentine’s Day easier by investigating the most romantic bars to be found in Warsaw – yep, it’s not been a bad issue to work on. Hope you enjoy it, and see ya’ next time…

Alex Webber

insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

12 editions of the Insider zł. 99 (inc. VAT) in Poland. Orders can be placed through: insider@warsawinsider.pl Printed by Zakłady Graficzne TAURUS Tel. (022) 783-6000

VALKEA MEDIA S.A., ul. Ficowskiego 15/17, Warszawa, Poland; tel. (48 22) 639 8567; e-mail: insider@ warsawinsider.pl All information ©2022 Warsaw Insider.

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In brief

CITY

Under The Bridge For an exhibition with a difference, this winter get lurking under Świętokrzyski Bridge…

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PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF UM.WARSZAWA

H

aving already attained nationwide fame after her official Christmas poster for Warsaw went viral, City Hall’s resident illustrator has been handed her own exhibition – on the support pillars running underneath Świętokrzyski Bridge.

Astonishingly, this is the least unusual aspect of the exhibition. Only visible at night, the works of graphic artist Aleksandra Jasionowska have been presented in the form of projected light illuminations. Opting to present her works outdoors due to the prevailing virus, a spokesman for City Hall said the project was part of a wider plan to encourage citizens – and in particular women – to visit the boulevards running along the riverfront.

“After dark, we’re encouraging people to visit the boulevards, admire some art and look forward to Spring with a new sense of hope,” said Jan Piotrowski. “For years, we have been urging people to visit the riverside in the winter, as during this period the river is charming as always but also calmer and quieter. And because it acts as a natural air corridor, the air is always the cleanest around here.”

Beyond this ‘gallery of light’, Jasionowska’s work can also be viewed at the General Patton Boulevard and the Kamień Educational Pavilion close to Praski Park.

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In brief • Architecture

Best Western Subject to a major ongoing reconstruction process, Warsaw’s western train station, Zachodnia, opened two new platforms in December and January marking the end of the first phase of work. Looking positively space age, the station PLN 2 billion overhaul will now enter the next stage of development with works set to conclude next year. “Zachodnia will provide an exceptional level of comfort for travelers,” promised a spokesman for PKP. “All platforms will be roofed, and escalators, elevators and dynamic information system will facilitate travel.”

So Long, Farewell Work on dismantling the Ilmet tower will accelerate this year, with real estate developer Skanska revealing that the next few months will see construction crews begin stripping the exterior bit-by-bit. Completed in 1997, the 97-meter Ilmet will be replaced by the Warsaw One skyscraper, a 188-meter skyscraper designed by the Danish architectural studio Schmidt Hammer Lassen. Though renderings have been floating around for the best part of a decade, further adaptations are expected.

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PHOTOGRAPHS MIDDLE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL (2), OPPOSITE PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK

A TV Winner?

Construction has begun on a new television production facility for TVP, the state broadcasting firm. Set to be the most modern TV studio in the country, the project will include wardrobe warehouses and an outdoor studio on a eco-friendly green roof. Also featuring rain retention systems, the 20,000 sq/m building will be controlled by intelligent SMART systems and tout a giant 3D screen covering a 300 sq/m corner of the façade. Designed by PIG Architekci, the building is being erected next door to TVP’s HQ, a vulgar glass fortress whose mind-boggling aesthetics have often been likened to both Gargamel’s Castle and the Tower of Babel.

WEATHER

The End Of The World Is Nigh!

Extraordinary in its ferocity, January saw Warsaw take the brunt of a storm that will live long in the memory.

T

hough no stranger to freak weather patterns, even by Poland’s own wacky standards January 17th offered something truly unexpected. Lashed by ‘thundersnow’, Warsaw found itself engulfed in darkness at around 10 a.m. Swiftly, this was followed by ten-to-twelve minutes of raging thunder and heavy snow. Brief but powerful, the ensuing carnage saw firefighters called into action to deal with felled trees and wrecked cars.

In all, emergency services were summoned over 150 times in the capital to deal with the fallout.

Bizarrely, the apocalyptic interlude was quickly followed by clear blue skies and bright sunshine. Resulting from a strong synoptic-scale squall line passing overhead, the storm also hit other parts of central and eastern Poland with winds reaching as high as 162 km per hour in some areas.

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In brief

PUBLIC ART

Look Who’s Baaack!

Widely known for his surrealistic water colors, Tytus Brzozowski has added to his portfolio of murals with the unveiling of another large-format stunner in downtown Warsaw.

F

ound on ul. Wschowska 10, the latest makes use of anti-smog technology and was created using special paints that deaden the effect of airborne pollutants. Covering the entire building – not just one side – the mural was created in cahoots with ZGN Wola.

Mateusz Matejewski, director of ZGN Wola, said: “It wasn’t just the artist’s design that we liked; we made the façade of this building available because we understood the beneficial impact this mural could have on the environment – painted with anti-smog paints, when used on such a large surface the paints clean the air in the same way 400 trees would.”

Following the spirit of his recent murals, Brzozowski has

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paid homage to the immediate area by depicting many familiar local landmarks; aside from modern skyscrapers, that’s meant featuring the iconic gas towers close to Zachodnia station. Known as “the Wola Colosseum”, these epic rotundas were built during the Industrial Revolution and have long fascinated Warsaw’s urban explorers.

Though primarily known for his paintings, Brzozowski first delved into the world of XXL art in 2018 and has since seen several murals executed in and around Warsaw, among them a work adorning the Spark office building, another on Chmielna 120, one that celebrates the city’s Jewish heritage close to Pl. Grzybowski, and another within spitting distance of the eastern train station.

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Hello Darkness, My Old Friend

Casting Warsaw in a new, atmospheric light, this month we settle in for a moonlit chat with Insta legend Mustache Lens…

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATEUSZ WĄS

City Photography WI: Most of your images are captured at night – what do you love about working in the dark evening hours?

ML: The sight of light emerging from the darkness fascinates me – things like lanterns, illuminated subway entrances, shop windows, office lights, etc. When these are juxtaposed against the darkness you can get incredible results. Besides, I always want to learn how to take pictures that draw people in and lend a new perspective on things.

Do you plan your shoots or are your photos taken spontaneously?

Originally they were totally spontaneous. Recently, however, I’ve started creating shoot lists in my head and using friends as models or heading to pre-determined locations. On my Insta, you’ll definitely now find a few photos that are more ‘arranged’.

“ Besides, I always want to learn how to take pictures that draw people in and lend a new perspective on things.”

In your mind, what makes a beautiful photo?

It’s all about capturing the moment.

The most beautiful thing about an image is the ‘moment’ and the way we perceive it. Each of us has a different point of view, and that’s what the most beautiful thing of all is.

What do you love about photographing Warsaw – what makes the city such a good model?

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATEUSZ WĄS

What are you shooting with and what’s your post-production process?

I’ve got a Sony A7III camera and use Tamron and Samyang lenses. All the editing, meanwhile, is done in Lightroom. I spend quite a lot of time editing, but I absolutely love doing it – especially when the results come close to what I’d first imagined. As the saying goes, you can do the impossible right away, but you need to wait a little longer for miracles!

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City Photography

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City Photography It’s a city that doesn’t have a specific mood. Warsaw’s a patchwork city that really inspies. The contrasts, for instance in the city’s architecture, generate a unique atmosphere and then you’ve got the various lights, trams, metro stops, etc.

Do you have any favorite secret little places in Warsaw that you like to shoot?

Well, they’re not secret and they’re not small, but I really enjoy shooting photos around Rondo ONZ and Daszyńskiego – they remind me of London and Rotterdam, two cities that I really enjoy and try to visit as regularly as possible. I’m trying to get to know Warsaw all the time.

I’ve been here for three-years now, but even so I’m still discovering new things every now and again.

Finally, what’s in the name: Mustache Lens?

The Lens bit is self-explanatory, but Mustache is a modified version of my surname – none of my English-speaking friends could ever pronounce my surname so I changed it a little to make it easier for them to say. Hopefully, I think Mustache Lens is quite original.

For more on Mustache Lens, check: instagram.com /mustache_lens

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY MATEUSZ WĄS

We’re assuming, by the way, that you’re a pro photographer?

Ha, maybe when I grow up! I started photographing when I was a kid – whilst my friends were getting bikes, I was asking for cameras.

True, I gave up photography for a while, but true love never dies. I picked up photography again last year and since then me and my camera have lived happily ever after!

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A wedding photographer and computer specialist by profession, Mariusz Zając has become one of Poland’s best-known colorizers of historical pictures. Specializing in the inter-bellum period, his stunning images of pre-war Warsaw have won him admirers around the world… warsawinsider.pl

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Historical Photography Colorized

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Have you been surprised by the reaction to your work?

In most cases it’s positive, especially if you use ‘likes’ or ‘shares’ as a benchmark. Of course, there are negative comments, but these are few and far between and mainly from people who believe that historical photos shouldn’t be colored.

Do they have a point?

They claim that images lose their ‘atmosphere’ when colored. I answer them by saying that my colorizations do not mean that the originals have been removed from the public sphere. Some think that my artistic vision isn’t in accordance with historical truth, but I think I’m providing a service by giving viewers a choice.

You’ve won a huge following, but it turns out you haven’t even been coloring for long?

That’s right. I made coloring debut in February 2020. My first photos and film though received great feedback and it was then that I realized there wasn’t much competition. That’s partly why I

decided to throw myself into coloring and expand my knowledge.

How accurate are you colors?

Like all colorizations, they’re part of the artistic vision of the creator. Even now, there’s no way to work out what the actual color was in a monochromatic photograph.

So, now for the nerd talk – how do you color these images in the first place?

First of all I use a program called deOldify - but that relies on neutral network algorithms which means that every photo processed in this way will tend to look the same no matter what it actually shows. In order to improve my colorization results I therefore then use my own techniques to give a different color expression. These tools are based on AI algorithms that I’ve created using my computer know-how. The coloring process isn’t actually all that different, but because I’ve found my own methods my images look different to the others on the market. It’s great to hear that viewers often warsawinsider.pl

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Historical Photography Colorized

can’t tell if the colors are original or not.

What do you look for when choosing which photos to color?

The coloring process has several stages and a lot depends on the quality of the initial photo. The photographs I color must have a certain minimum scan and image quality and I asses these individually based on past experience. If a photo falls below these quality specifications I have to leave it as I know the results won’t be realistic. There’s a lot of very interesting archival images that I would love to color but simply can’t because they’re not of sufficient quality.

Assuming an image is of good resolution and quality, what happens next? How time consuming is this?

Coloring one photo can take anything between thirty minutes to three or four-hours. AI algorithms aren’t good at colorizing crowds, for instance, so these demand extra work. It’s also important to spend time finding color references for essential

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“ Essentially, my works will be brought to life in a way that I hope will make it the most captivating multimedia exhibition that Warsaw has seen to date” elements. For example, one time I colored Marshal Piłsudski and got the shade of his sash wrong – straight away people were writing in to tell me that these ceremonial sashes had different colors.

How is the world of colorists changing?

The development of AI algorithms over the last couple of years have been incredible. What was impossible not long back has already become possible and this progress has completely redefined many basic concepts that apply to photography and graphics. To digitally enlarge a photo it would deteriorate in quality, but now it will no longer lose significant quality. I’ve no doubt that

what we consider to be unthinkable now will soon have an answer – and to be honest, I’m not even talking about photography alone. I’m convinced that what we perceive to belong in the realms of science fiction will soon become reality.

Ever since premiering, your work has gone viral…

My first forays into photo and film colorization were widely publicized in the media and ever since then I’ve had some really interesting opportunities. Looking ahead, I’m really excited that I’ve got a multimedia exhibition of my work coming up in the Norblin factory complex.

Tell us more!

I’ve met many interesting people thanks to my work, and one of those is Joanna Kowalkowska of the Art Box Experience in Norblin. She contacted me about holding an exhibition and I simply assumed it would be the kind of classic exhibition that doesn’t interest people much anymore: pictures hanging on a wall. To be honest, that didn’t arouse much enthusiasm on my part, but then she started telling me more about it and I realized it had nothing in line with our traditional perception of an exhibition. The project will use my colorized photos and films and, thanks to state-of-the-art laser digital projections, will calibrate them to create a seamless exhibition of 800 sq/m. Essentially, my works will be brought to life in a way that I hope will make it the most captivating multimedia exhibition that Warsaw has seen to date.

For sure, lots of people would love to experiment with coloring themselves – what advice would you give to a novice?

There’s lots of quick-fix online tools but although many are quite reliable you do sometimes find errors in the interpretation of an image. For instance, you might find a program coloring trees green when, in fact, they should be a different color as the photo was taken in autumn. To correct these kind of things you have no choice but to befriend Photoshop. Simultaneously, I’d tell beginners to acquaint themselves with the theory of color in painting – that’s important so that you learn how to choose colors consciously rather than by accident.

Lastly, I’d recommend that people familiarize themselves with color correction and color grading.

The Art Box Experience

Set to open on March 19th, the Art Box Experience is being hyped as an immersive exhibition and event center that will allow visitors to travel back in time inside the Norblin Factory. Titled Retro Warsaw, the first exhibition will be based upon digitally reconstructed archival materials that will take people back to Warsaw’s inter-bellum: thanks to a pioneering 360 projection system, visitors will find themselves drawn inside the unique atmosphere of the era.

Breathing new life into this distant past, the authors of the project have revived a lost world with their project giving people the opportunity to march alongside a military parade, view a car race or which in awe as a skyscraper is constructed. But, so they say, prepare also to meet the city’s everyday residents. “On the streets, at the bust stop, in the shops or inside the old Norblin factory.” Promising to be like nothing Warsaw has ever seen before, tickets and further info can be found at: artboxexperience.com

For more, see: zajacfoto.com warsawinsider.pl

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PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE NAC< OPPOSITE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

PAST

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PERFECT More than offering a mere bed for the night, this issue join us for a look at the Warsaw hotels that helped rewrite history…

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Hotel Warszawa Nowadays, most locals call the building that towers over Pl. Powstańców Warszawy the Warszawa after the hotel that it houses. This, however, was not always the case. Completed in 1933, and put into use the following year, this early skyscraper was originally titled the Prudential in honor of its principal tenant – the globally renowned British insurance firm.

Initially intended measure just 11-storeys, this was increased during the planning stage to 16-floors in all. Heavily influenced by the trans-Atlantic skyscrapers trending in cities like New York and Chicago, Marcin Weinefeld’s project became Poland’s tallest tower. In, in Europe only the 96-meter Boerentoren in Antwerp beat it for size. Visible from 20 kilometers away, its height wasn’t overlooked by Poland’s television firms and in 1936 the roof was handed over to house the nation’s first TV transmitter.

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But although Prudential could be considered the flagship tenant, the building’s higher floors had been set aside for several apartments that were, at the time, considered among the most luxurious in Warsaw – the biggest penthouses covered a whopping 240 sq/m.

Constructed using two million bricks, two thousand tons of concrete and one-and-a-half thousand tons of concrete, it was a building whose huge dimensions were matched by the luxuries within: there were frescoes by Wacław Borowski, one of the country’s leading artists of the era, walnut furniture

by Nina Jankowska, and a heap of alabaster and marble trimmings.

Its importance did not diminish during the occupation and the Prudential’s height made it a pivotal Home Army target once the 1944 Warsaw Uprising kicked-off; realizing the morale boost it would give citizens were they to see the Polish flag flying from the nation’s tallest building, capturing the building was an early priority – it’s fall sparked scenes of wild jubilation. “When the Polish flag was hoisted from

PHOTOGRAPH TOP POLONA.PL, BELOW PRESS MATERIAL

THE TALL GUY

it, people left their homes just to look at it, crying and laughing and spontaneously singing the national anthem,” wrote historian Alexandra Richie.

The German response was ferocious and the building was subsequently battered by 1,000 rounds of artillery. On August 28th, 1944, it was struck by a two-ton shell but still its steel skeleton held firm – captured on Sylwester Braun’s Leica camera, his images of the resulting explosion would become iconic.

Never captured in battle, the Prudential only returned to German hands when the city’s surrender was signed – a symbol of stubborn defiance, it had withstood everything the Nazis had thrown at it.

Even so, it made for a sorry sight. Filled with over nine thousand tons of rubble, it would take years for it to be restored. Leading these efforts was the original architect, who himself had survived the war by the skin of his teeth having been imprisoned in Dachau.

Due to the new political reality, Weinfeld’s first design was simplified to fit the concepts of Socialist Realism, and more floors were squashed in thereby

giving the building a more cramped feeling. Still, its renewal was welcomed, and when it relaunched in 1954 it was to fulfill the function of a hotel. It was named the Warszawa.

Famous for its social gatherings and black tie balls, for a short while the hotel became the pride of PRL Poland; the glory years did not last. When Communism collapsed, the hotel too found itself falling from grace. Looking increasingly dark and dowdy, it was finally closed in 2003. Fortunately, this was not the end.

Purchased by the Likus family in 2009, there could have been no better buyer for this historic property. Already known for luxuriously recharging a string of heritage addresses in Kraków, Wrocław and Katowice, their patient revival process saw the Warszawa finally reopened in 2018. Spectacular and contemporary yet also tastefully restrained, the rebooted Warszawa now stands out as one of the most exciting stays in Central Eastern Europe. High on natural materials, and looking teasingly minimalistic, the design-forward style is a sensuous joy.

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Hotels Past & Present

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THE LAP OF LUXURY Raffles Europejski Warsaw The 2018 launch of the Raffles Europejski Warsaw was the culmination of a meticulous renovation that saw no expense spared. But so much more than just another sumptuous hotel, its inauguration marked the return of an iconic building that has often been at the forefront of the trials and triumphs experienced by Warsaw.

Originally opened in 1857, Henryk’s Marconi’s Neo-Renaissance design for the Europejski was complemented by lavish interior touches by his son, Karol, and his nephew, Ferrante. Impressing from its inception, people traveled from far and wide to enjoy the cooking of Józef Wysakowski, the former chef to Spain’s Queen Isabel – quickly, the hotel earned a reputation as arguably the most elegant in the entire Tsarist Empire. Refusing to stand still, further improvements were made to coincide with its 50th anniversary; partly goaded by the opening of the Bristol across the road, the upgrade included the introduction of sound-proofed doors, electric elevators and telephone booths.

The stars of the day flocked there (among them, the avant garde painter Witkacy and actress Helena Modrzejewska, a.k.a. Poland’s most beautiful woman), and the Europejski’s glittering New Year’s Eve parties found themselves immortalized after being featured in The Doll (Lalka), a 19th century classic that has come to be regarded as the greatest literary work in the history of Poland.

Rechristened the Europäisches in 1939, the Nazi occupation saw it designated as Nur für Deutsche and for the following five years its corridors clicked to the goosestepping jackboots of visiting German officers. Heavily damaged during the 1944 Warsaw Uprising, it reopened as a hotel in 1962, albeit a pale shadow of what it once was. Nonetheless, the lack

of competition saw it maintain its reputation as the city’s top hotel, and as such the big names continued to check-in.

Of the ‘slebs that lodged at the post-war Europejski, Marlene Dietrich was one of the first with the chanteuse snootily complaining that the lift wasn’t large enough for her four-meter fur (in a huff, she switched to the Bristol opposite). Next came The Rolling Stones, with their two landmark gigs prompting riots around town. According to legend, their press conference at the Europejski only went ahead following a last-minute bribe, while other anecdotes claim they finished their first night in Poland drinking vodka and crawling back to their rooms “on all fours”.

Of course, not all high-profile visits were as chaotic, and one of the hotel’s prouder moments came in 1970 when Willy Brandt signed a declaration officially normalizing relations between Poland and Germany. Soon after, the West German Chancellor would send further shockwaves across the world by dropping to his knees in front of the Jewish Uprising Monument in Muranów.

For the Europejski, however, the years that followed brought only gloom, a decline finally halted when a 2005 court ruling returned it to its rightful pre-war owners. Working in tandem with Raffles, the resulting restoration has seen the hotel become a benchmark in luxury and a showcase of the finest Polish art and craftsmanship. Fittingly, among the first VIPs to stay were the Rolling Stones. Visiting Poland as part of their No Filter tour, it was a clear affirmation that this stunning hotel had returned to its rightful perch. Truly extraordinary in every respect, the Raffles Europejski Warsaw has bridged the past with the present in peerless fashion – that it also doubles as home to outposts of Hermes, Aston Martin and Brunello Cucinelli only serves to underline its blue ribbon reputation. warsawinsider.pl

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THE GRAND DAME Hotel Bristol Celebrating her 120th birthday last year, few hotels can match the story of the Bristol. Named so after the Earl of Bristol, a famously extravagant and worldly 18th century traveler, this Warsaw legend welcomed its first guest on November 19th, 1901.

Reportedly arriving from Paris, Emilia Finot crossed the threshold to be greeted by the hotel’s

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GM, a man history remembers only by the surname of Helbling.

Setting a groundbreaking standard, she was whisked on a tour of a hotel that contained thrills such as central heating, double ventilation and a staggering six telephone lines. The star attraction though was a crystal lift, a contraption deemed so exotic that the hotel hired an attendant to make sure that users didn’t faint with excitement. The press corps, who had queued rowdily on the stairwell for their preview, wrote of little else than this “fairy tale carriage”.

Mirroring Poland’s own inter-bellum golden age, the Bristol too enjoyed the 20s and 30s to the max.

It was then that Prime Minister Ignacy Jan Paderewski chaired his first government meeting inside the hotel, thereby giving birth to modern Polish democracy in the process. In fact, such was his liking of the property, he took a suite here that today has been preserved as a nationally protected monument.

More than just an object of historic curiosity, today it doubles as the hotel’s most prestigious suite.

Famed for its lavish social events, the Bristol also saw its fair share of drama – when Józef Piłsudski announced his retirement from politics, it was in the Bristol’s hallowed halls. Though never destroyed during the war, a fact owing to the favor it found with German high command (one section became the HQ of the Chief of the Warsaw District), peacetime found the Bristol looking apologetic.

Still, the first couple of decades saw no shortage of VIP custom, and of those to traipse through the entrance were Marlene Dietrich, Pablo Picasso and JFK. But with investment lacking, the hotel was closed in 1981 and only revived once Communism fell. Purchased by the Forte Group, an extensive renovation was undertaken and the hotel was reopened by Margaret Thatcher in 1993. Signaling a return to the good times, the hotel became a biword for quality, a fact highlighted by the visitors it would attract in the ensuing years: Bill Gates, Paul McCartney, Tina Turner, Sophia Loren and Woody Allen to name but a few.

Famously, when George Bush arrived at the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier to give a speech, it was one of the hotel’s concierge staff that came to the rescue when it was realized that the President had left his coat in Berlin. Rushing to his aid, an overcoat belonging to a concierge was delivered just in the nick of time by the Bristol’s head of operations.

Rated as one of the most famous hotels in Central Eastern Europe, today the Bristol continues to evolve mixing its powerful sense of history with the modern day demands of the five star traveler.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE POLONA.PL, OPPOSITE TOP NAC, BOTTOM SHUTTERSTOCK

Hotels Past & Present

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PHOTOGRAPHS CLOCKWISE FROM LEFT SHUTTERSTOCK, POLONA.PL (3)

Hotels Past & Present

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GRAND CENTRAL Polonia Palace Hotel Hints as to how majestic Warsaw once looked can be found on that stretch of Jerzolimskie that runs from Rondo Dmowskiego to Emili Plater street – scanning the buildings that line this route, its easy to understand why Warsaw was once known as the ‘Paris of the East’. But imperious as these structures are, none look as grand as the Polonia Palace Hotel.

Opened on the 14th of July, 1913, its name was no accident. Founded at a time when Poland still fell under Tsarist rule, its title was picked by the hotel’s founder, Konstanty G. Przeździecki, to remind the citizens of Warsaw that Poland “should always exist in the heart and mind”.

From the outset, it was quite a hotel. Though competing against heavyweights such as the Bristol and Europejski, it offered modern conveniences the likes of which were unavailable in rival hotels: among these trimmings, guests had access to typewriters and fireproof deposit boxes. Also offering “transport solutions” to the city’s train stations, its location was another big boon.

Located just strides away from the Warsaw-Vienna station, its coordinates ensured a constant footfall of visiting dignitaries, including the King of Afghanistan in 1929. By this time, the hotel was already synonymous with the high life, and 1924 saw the garage converted into a dance hall and ballroom whose artistic director was Ralph Roy, an award-winning dancer from Vienna.

Attracting a string of VIPs, those that gathered for the Polonia’s banquets and balls included Stefan Żeromski, Tadeusz Boy-Żeleński and the legendary tenor and actor Jan Kiepura. In 1929, the hotel hosted the first ever Miss Polonia competition, a pageant won by Władysława Kostakówna – passing away in 2001, Kostakówna would later finish runner-up in the Miss Europe contest, before going on to be awarded for courage for her work as an agent during WWII. Undoubtedly, it was this era that was to prove the most challenging for the hotel. Already hailed for its extensive wine cellar, trendy perfumery, hair salon and chlorine-free laundry service, it was little wonder that it was seconded by the occupying Germans and it became a favorite haunt of visiting officers. Captured during the Warsaw Uprising, it served as a field hospital and supply center and only survived destruction after loyal staff risked all by returning after the capitulation to lock the hotel down.

It was because of their courage that the Polonia

became the only hotel in the city to withstand heavy destruction, and this made it a natural choice for embassies seeking a post-war address in the ruined city center. Most famously of all, it was here where General Eisenhower stayed in 1945 whilst touring the devastated city.

The PRL era saw the Polonia treated well, and in 1953 it hosted a famous diplomatic banquet – attended by Zhou Enlai, the first leader of the People’s Republic of China – during which chefs created dishes such as a horse-drawn carriage made from cold cuts and ‘burning ice cream boats’ that featured batteries and lights inside. Never short of celebrity custom, the following decades drew visits from legendary footballers such as Zbigniew Boniek, Grzegorz Lato and Jan Tomaszewski (the goalkeeper that thwarted England at Wembley in 1973) not to mention performances by the biggest domestic bands of the time: Czerwone Gitary, Skaldowie and Słowiki.

Temporarily closed at the beginning of the millennium, major restorations occurred in 2004 and 2010, and these have returned the hotel to its standing of yore. Beautiful to explore, it’s a hotel whose history and tradition ring loud and proud. warsawinsider.pl

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Hotels Past & Present THAT SEVENTIES GLOW Novotel Warszawa Centrum

Today, you’ll likely know it as the Novotel, but back in the 1970s the tower that loomed over Rondo Dmowskiego identified itself as the Forum Hotel. Opened on January 24th, 1974, it was touted as being “the first Western style tower in the city”. Designed by Sten Samuelson, not everyone liked it, and its sandy-brown façade saw it quickly dubbed ‘the chocolate bar’ by unimpressed locals. Standing 96-meters high, what was then Poland’s second tallest building had several detractors with one critic, Jerzy Waldorff, going so far as to claim the architect had avenged Sweden’s 1656 defeat at The Battle of Częstochowa with his design.

But the Swedish connection did not end here.

Most famously, ABBA used the Forum as their base when they visited Poland in 1976. Reputedly booked after the Polish authorities promised to export tons of canned peas to Sweden, the pop megastars were besieged by fans at the Forum, though did manage to squeeze out through the delirious mob record a TV program, tour the Palace of Culture and neck some vodka in the Old Town. Formerly also used as the seat of embassies representing Libya, Gabon, Costa Rica and Portugal, the hotel was rechristened the Novotel in 2002. Modernized a couple of years later, its jaundiced skin was replaced by the sleek, silvery façade we see today.

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A NEW DAWN! Warsaw Marriott Hotel When the Marriott opened in 1989 it marked the end of a stop-start construction process that had lasted twelve years in all. Taking root on a plot that had been empty since the war, the original plans – drawn-up in the 1960s – were almost sci-fi in their style and imagined a futuristic complex consisting of ice rinks, pools and skyscrapers linked together by footbridges and cable cars.

By the 70s, the blueprints had been amended and simplified but even so the project found itself halted for several years after the implosion of the domestic economy. Resumed in 1987, work finished two-years later thanks, in part, to the efforts of Thai construction workers flown in for the job. An oasis of prosperity and American-style largesse, expats and monied locals thronged the hotel’s bars and restaurants, while visiting VIPs made full use of the

split-level Presidential Suite on the 40th floor: Joan Collins, Luciano Pavarotti, Chris de Burgh and Michael Jackson to name just a few. Helmut Kohl, too, was here when news filtered through that the Berlin Wall was being swarmed and dismantled.

Mostly, however, it’s the building’s association with the US Presidency that has made waves: Trump and Bush stayed here, whilst Obama was at the center of security storm after a guest managed to get up close and film him working out.

Playing a crucial role in Poland’s post-Communist development, it was in the Marriott that Western advisors camped enmasse during those early years of wild capitalism. Known disparagingly by locals as “The Marriott Brigade”, it was these consultants, congressmen and contractors that helped haul Poland from the dark ages. Still regarded as a symbol of Poland’s free market growth, the building’s future was safeguarded in 2010 when the Marriott group extended their lease till 2044. warsawinsider.pl

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MOYA MATCHA JAPANESE GREEN TEA

ul. Oleandrów 6, moyamatcha.com / fb.com/moyamatchaoleandrow

Eat! ABRA KEBABRA!

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Another month and another magical discovery on the kebab front…

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Review

W

hen we proclaimed Fazir to be Poland’s best kebab last month we unwittingly unleashed something of a war.

“So you’ve visited every kebab store in the country,” scoffed one unhappy reader; “bullshit,” opined another. And gosh, that was in public – you should have seen the inbox.

Anyhow, in moments like that it’s natural to get defensive: to dig in and stick your fingers in your ears. That said, it does pay to listen, for every once in a while you’ll receive a few tips that you’d never otherwise have heard – and in this case, that came to mean Amun.

WHAT DOES IT LOOK LIKE? Much like any other high street kebab joint is your answer.

Looking bare and bluish-grey, the outward sterility is offset by the big welcome that hails you on entry. Regardless, it’s a spartan room whose décor doesn’t go beyond a fridge, squeaky clean floor tiles and a blackboard menu perched above the counter.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

WHERE IS IT? The bad news (yep, there’s always some), is that like Fazir this place isn’t central. In fact, similar to Fazir, it’s not even inside Warsaw’s city boundaries.

Found in the western satellite town of Pruszków, it’s a ten-minute south-easterly walk from the station, and just a sharp whistle from the scenic Park Potulickich – so yeah, you’ve now got a reason to make a day of your trip.

Amun Kebab ul. B. Prusa 48 (Pruszków), fb.com/amunkebab

THE FOOD So yes, what of the food. Like Fazir, the big schtick here is a charcoal-fired grill over which you’ll find two rotating skewers of lamb and chicken.

This alone is something worth the return ticket to Pruszków. Giving the meat a heavy, smoky intensity, your kebab is further enhanced by fresh vegetables and cabbage that feels almost fermented – this rich, tart tang works brilliantly with the meat while the homemade sauces tie up the experience.

Spicy but never overpowering, the hot sauce comes recommended for those that like their kebab to come with a fiery personality.

FINAL WORD Peaking at zł. 23 for the ‘mega size’ (which, in truth, can be eaten easily in a sitting by those with a more masculine appetite), the kebabs here are very good indeed, whilst other dishes koftas, falafel, shawarmas and kebab boxes loaded to the gunnels with meat, chips and salad.

It’s a place whose quality can’t be argued. An excellent stop-off if you’re in this neck of the world, it’s interesting that Warsaw can now boast two brilliant charcoal-cooked kebabs sitting on its east and west flank – but is it not now time for something like this to debut in the center? We live in hope… warsawinsider.pl

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Review SWEET DREAMS ARE MADE OF THIS

Hidden under Poniatowski Bridge, Domo Bake redefines the artisanal dessert landscape…

N

icknamed ‘the Sugar Queen’, Dominika Małysiak has earned every jewel in her baking crown through perseverance, creativity and dedication. Entirely self-taught, she’s become one of the brightest beacons of Poland’s baking community…

THE PROOF IS IN THE PUDDING Being stranded on an exotic

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island sounds just about ideal, right? But while most of us would use the opportunity to sit under a palm tree and sip jungle fruit cocktails, Dominika found herself doing something different. Stuck in Sri Lanka last year due to quarantine, the baker opted to use her extended break to pen an e-book titled Przepisy Prosto z Dżunlgi. Laying bare the secrets behind thirty-one of her desserts (from the perfect salted caramel brownie

Domo Bake Solec 81B (unit 62A, Centrum Handlowe Arkada), fb.com/domobake

morsel is scooped from the cookie sheet.

to red velvet cookies and vegan donuts), it was a testament not to just her baking prowess, but also her passion for vocation.

THE SKINNY Situated on the top floor of the Arkady complex that sits under Poniatowski Bridge, Domo Bake is open from Friday through Sunday with the day’s offerings sitting outside the frosted glass façade that conceals Dominika's rented baking space. With each display piece numbered with a marker pen and then laid to rest on a folding table, here these gems remain until the last

WHAT TO WATCH Ever willing to engage with punters, visits invariably begin with a cheerful welcome before rolling into an explanation of just what glories lie in front.

On our visit, that meant red velvet pops alongside cinnamon rolls with caramel and dustings of chopped walnut; also readying for rollout were poppyseed bagels. Looking like a simple chocolate chip cookie, star billing though went to a macaroon surprise, the kind of treat that widens your eyes.

Speaking to her during the hustle and bustle of the afternoon, it’s Dominika’s passion though that really elevates the experience to impossible highs. Talking as her kitchen timer allows, she’s a mine of information that’s happy to be quizzed – be sure to ask about her cookie dough, for you won’t be disappointed to learn exactly how she makes it.

INSIDER TIP For a great weekend brunch, check what bagels are on offer on Facebook, and if you’re planning a party don’t think about ordering cake from anyone but here. Customized to your preference, these include cakes flouting saucy expressions that will liven any party: for examples, just check Domo Bake's Insta feed! KD warsawinsider.pl

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Tradition Zagoździński

DONUT STOP ME NOW

As National Donut Day approaches, we take a look at some of our favorites in town…

J

ust imagine, an entire holiday based on Homer Simpson’s favorite meal – but no, you’re dreaming, in Poland such a thing really exists. Falling this year on February 24th, Tłusty Czwartek is a day on which the humble donut becomes the source of a nation’s fiendish obsession.

But what’s it all about? Translated as ‘Fat Thursday’, the holiday has its roots in religion – marking the last Thursday before Lent, it’s a day on which God-fearing worshippers would traditionally feast on goodies otherwise shunned during this other-

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wise solemn time. Over the years, that’s come to mean donuts and, to a lesser degree, angel wings as well.

Welcomed also by Poland’s growing band of non-believers, the day sees over 100 million donuts consumed across the country, and you can expect immense queues to build outside bakeries and sweet stores. Arousing strong passions, it’s not been entirely unknown to find lines devolving into fisticuffs whenever errant queue-jumpers are caught. But which donuts are worth fighting for?

We can think of a few.

Tradition THE NEW WAVE Kukułka

ul. Mokotowska 52

MOD Donuts

Kukułka’s desserts have lifted Warsaw in a heavenly direction – literally in the case of their Angel Wings. The donuts include both traditional and I-didn’t-expect-that fillings (passion fruit!), and don’t dare leave without their signature cream puffs.

Lukullus

Various Locations

Though their origins date to 1946, the individualized, uber-cool interiors and modern desserts make Lukullus a shoe-in for our New Wave shortlist. Using rose jam as their filling, the donuts are a nod to the roots of this well-respected operation.

THE OLD GUARD

Miss Mellow

Chmielna 13

Wilcza 62

Reminiscent of Italian bombolini, these doughy spheres of pleasure come oozing with milk chocolate, vanilla cream, salty caramel and a few other tastes we can’t remember – you might not either, as this place has a habit of knocking you sideways with its tasty little treasures.

MOD

Oleandrów 8 & Paryska 27

Award-winning NYC-style donuts that transpire to be things of craft, adventure and irresistible taste. All the better for ignoring chemical nasties and mass-market shortcuts, the playful nature of MOD’s non-standard offerings is expressed via all-natural, boldly-colored toppings such as matcha, mango, black forest gateau, salted caramel or hibiscus.

We LOVE it!

Cukiernia Pawłowicz Revered by traditionalists, the queue on Tłusty Czwartek snakes as far as the eye can see. Be patient to see why.

Irena

Born in Szczecin in 1989, Stara Pączkarnia has since blossomed into a nationwide chain. Served through a hatch, find their Warsaw sales point dealing an array of tastes that include rebel fillings such as pineapple, Advocaat or Bounty.

Zakopiańska 20

Stary Dom

Smaki Warszawy

Though less than ten years old, the aesthetic conjures images of Warsaw’s upmarket, inter-war confectionaries. The traditionally angled desserts – donuts included – are unimpeachable.

Existing since 1937, this cult venue chooses to decorate its donuts with orange peel and pipe them full of plum jam. The results transcend description.

Visit!

Various Locations

Something of a hybrid, Smaki Warszawy tread a fine line between tradition and modernity.

Though there’s much contemporary about their cakes, the donuts are of the old school variety.

Stara Pączkarnia Nowy Świat 28

Puławska 104/106

Zagoździński Górczewska 15

Suppliers to none other than Marshal Józef Piłsudski! Founded in 1925, and side-stepping modern innovation and artificial nasties, it’s by far the most famous pączek in Poland – no kidding, queues stretch around the block! warsawinsider.pl

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MADE IN JAPAN

No longer limited to sushi alone, we bring you a hitlist of some of our favorite Japanese restaurants ahead of the country’s National Day on February 11th…

SUSHI & MORE NEW WAVE Nobu

Wilcza 73

Famously co-created by Robert DeNiro, producer Meir Teper, and chef Nobu Matsuhisa, it’s little wonder that this hotel was one of the most-hyped openings of 2020. The on-site restaurant, an exercise in zenlike luxury if ever there was, has also proved a pull with offerings

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such as wagyu beef tacos, king crab tempura, kushiyaki skewers, not to mention house signatures like black cod with miso and yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno.

OKONOMIYAKI

choose in Haci, including a real winner with squid. And aside from this, make time for the Takoyaki ‘octopus balls’. Although much-loved by Warsaw’s Japanese community, it remains something of a whispered little secret – get there now!

Polna 30B

OMAKASE

Haci

You might well ask what okonomiyaki are – to clarify (and simplify), these are Japanese-style pancakes cooked on a teppan griddle. There’s six to

Japonka

Grzybowska 56

Omakase refers to the Japanese tradition of putting your life in the hands of the chef in

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE SHUTTERSTOCK, OPPOSITE PAGE CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT, KEVIN DEMARIA (2), PRESS MATERIAL

Roundup

Roundup NOBU

JAPONKA

fried pork chops with Tonkatsu sauce; or their addictive donburi rice bowls.

VEGAN EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

front. Given carte blanche by the punter, it falls to head chef Dawid Uszyński to create magic based on intuition and product availability – this he does inside a vibey interior featuring a magenta neon, terrazzo floors and an intricate cat’s cradle of bold red shelving. This place lives in ‘the now’!

SETS Mizu

Duchnicka 3

Irresistible, immaculate and imaginative, the sushi is something special. Touting a modern-minimal look, the off-center location in a former factory since requisitioned by ad agencies lends to the sensation of dining somewhere a little under-the-radar. The sets are great value and offer a rounded

BBQ RAMEN-YA

Edamame Vegan Sushi & Youmiko Vegan Sushi Wilcza 11 & Hoża 62

Sushi without fish sounds insane, but these competing restaurants out-maneuver their more traditional competitors by replacing below-par amphibians with fresh vegetarian produce. Often stunningly creative, we’re stuck when it comes to choosing between this duo of stars. view of Mizu’s skills.

NOODLES

SOUPS

RAMEN

Nowogrodzka 56

Naruszewicza 29

Art Sushi

Forget your bog standard miso choices elsewhere, head to Art Sushi to dive into a rich array of soups such as their spicy seafood goulash option or the bouillon with mandu dumplings.

As kimchi fanatics, we’re happy to vouch for the pungent kimchi soup.

BBQ Ramen-ya

STREET FOOD

Looking like something straight out of Kung Fu Panda, this curious wooden shack serves just about the most complex and flavorsome ramen the Insider has had to date. The spicy vege tantanmen us loaded with fermented goodness and offers a great blend of savory peanut essence and enough chili oil to put winter on pause.

Pawińskiego 24

UDON

Sato Gotuje

This commie era pavilion is one of Warsaw's great ethnic treasures with a menu high on bitey Japanese street foods that you gobble with pleasure: choose from joys like grilled mackerel;

Uki Uki

Krucza 23/31

How much do locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar?

Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is warsawinsider.pl

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Roundup WABU

JAPONKI

can be few more influential sushi gurus working in Poland.

Than’s precision and innovation breathes new life into a culinary sector that has at times felt tired and one-dimensional.

PRESENTATION Wabu

Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire)

VEGAN

Uki Green

Koszykowa 49A

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the vegan ramen.

EXPERIENCE ALCOHOL

Wakayama

Noakowskiego 12

Warsaw’s Japanese restaurants often feel deathly serious in their atmosphere. Wakayama reverse that trend with a casual informality that’s brilliant to lap up. Fun and friendly, the drinks here include a range of sake and a choice of Japanese craft beers such as yuzu lager, red rice ale and espresso stout brewed by Hitachino Nest.

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CHAIN

Vegan Ramen Shop Various Locations

That they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand and quality. Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade games and a pink surfboard), their converts claim they serve “the best noodles in the world”.

DESIGN

Kiseki by Alon Chmielna 36A

It’s not just the food that feels perfect, but the design itself.

Set inside a glass cube, find pristine interiors decorated with swathes of street art by Swansky, clever lighting and plants and flowers hanging from the ceiling. It’s just beautiful to look at.

FOOD HALL

Sushi By Alon

Grzybowska 58 (Browary Food Hall)

Run by Alon Than, a sushi master who claimed the 2015 World Sushi Champion title at Tokyo’s World Sushi Cup, there

FOR HOME Japonki

Krochmalna 61

Serving as a store first and foremost, head here to stock up on fresh tofu, crackers, noodles, fish, Kanji ink brushes and ceramic bits and pieces. And when you’re done, get some sushi to go: using only certified farmed fish as well as shortgrain rice fused with Japanese vinegars, such has been the hype, it’s not uncommon to find food running short as the day progresses.

TEA

Moya Matcha Oleandrów 6

Set in a minimalistic, meditative space, visit for a wondrously chilled-out journey into the world of matcha. Specializing in organic matcha and leaf teas, there’s also a range of organic products and ceramics to buy, as well as wonderful miso cookies to nibble while engaging in the whole matcha ritual.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE LEFT, PRESS MATERIAL, RIGHT BY KEVIN DEMARIA

a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming.

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu – a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location.

Review

LA VEGANA

Vietnamese-inspired, but featuring no shortage of other Asian options, this plant-based restaurant proves an unexpected hit…

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

LOOK From the very point of entry, there’s something likeable about La Vegana. Interior-wise, money has been spent wisely on a design that blends teal colors with wood finishes, wicker extras and statuettes of kneeling deities: you wouldn’t call it visionary, but it’s a pleasant, roomy space that partners well with the concept and cuisine.

MENU In a word: indecipherable.

Looking flimsy and a little tatty, the menu transpires to offer an exhaustive range of Asian-titled dishes accompanied by Polish language descriptions that will test your language knowledge to the max. And although gluten-free dishes are clearly marked, there’s no delineation (that we could see) made between vegan and vegetarian options. A bamboozling work of Byzantine complexity, we’ve not seen a menu this challenging for years. But think of that as a charming quirk, for it turns out to be not a bad thing at all. warsawinsider.pl

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La Vegana ul. Zgoda 4, fb.com/lavegana4

“

FOOD As bewildering as the menu is, its sheer incomprehensibility encourages guests to throw darts blindfolded before ordering up lots of little dishes. That’s what we did, and we weren’t disappointed. Light but with the perfect amount of crunch, the tempura was one such star, while the kimchi was among

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the best we’ve had in recent months: a pungent, tangy mass of spiced, fermented cabbage.

But even more successful were the nem rolls; tofu bulgogi; and yuba cha (fried tofu skin). Alive with fragrant, delicate flavors, all three give you pause to salute the kitchen. Irresistibly moreish, you peck away in a state of gentle happiness.

FINAL VERDICT ‘Big bowls’ weigh in at around zł. 30 whilst small bowls are half that, price tags which enable even skimpy budgets to order a feast. And a feast is exactly what this is. Best enjoyed with several little bowls sprayed out across the table, it’s an exotic adventure that feels brilliantly put together. Immensely satisfying, and with friendly service to boot, it’s an experience that’s hard not to enjoy. Opened over summer, La Vegana provides proof that Warsaw’s plantbased sector is as exciting now as it was when it first exploded.

Impressed? Yes we were.

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Immensely satisfying, and with friendly service to boot, it’s an experience that’s hard not to enjoy...

Eat! listings adriatic MUNJA

Positioned in the heart of Warsaw’s flourishing new business quarter, both locations have been styled accordingly to slot into their swank surroundings: floor-to-ceiling windows lead into slick interiors that feel high on gloss and polish. But there is warmth as well with light woods and tan leather the dominant colors. Proclaiming themselves to be Poland’s first Adriatic restaurant (their words not ours), Munja’s menu is a joyful assembly of meat and fish cooked over flames – for our chosen highlight, order the lamb cevapi or Dinarko mussels. ul. Grzybowska 43 & Grzybowska 60 (Browary Warszawskie)

author’s cuisine ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored.

That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul. Mokotowska 48

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage

of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

BROWAR WARSZAWSKI

Breeze blocks, exposed metal girders, hovering steel lights and concrete surfaces inject a strong industrial aesthetic into the visuals, but these are softened by a proliferation of warming touches such as lavishly upholstered seats, leather banquettes and tiny antique details.

This place is beautiful. But while most visit for the beer, the food is a winner as well. Of the highlights, find a range of steaks that include thwunking big Tomahawks to Wagyu beef, not to mention the best fish’n’chips we’ve had outside of England. ul. Haberbuscha i Schielego 2

DYLETANCI

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined.

The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

KLONN

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul.

Oleandrów 8

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper.

Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant

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Eat! listings essence of paprika. It’s exceptional.

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

ROZBRAT 20

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite writeups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking.

ul. Rozbrat 20

bakeries BĘDZIE DOBRZE PIEKARNIA

The revolving door of regulars makes for a kinetic café / bakery experience, and that feeling is upped by the sight of shelves featuring a curated selection of delicious delicacies from Poland’s top producers – granola by Wikk Me, preserves from cool out-of-town restaurants such as Monka and Kocharz, and nutty butters from brands like Sticky Blenders. But it’s the baked goodies that really reward the visitor with our gold button awarded to their shokupan (Japanese milk bread), what-rye baguettes, and drożdżówka sweet rolls. ul. Puławska 23/25

CAŁA W MĄCE

“My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!” Milling the

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flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul.

Krasińskiego 18

chinese PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-bladed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1

comfort food BURGER BAR

Warsaw has come full-circle: years

after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43

FAZIR KEBAB

Just outside of Warsaw, find Fazir sitting diagonally across the road from Michalin train station. Set in a wooden shed-like structure, its unpromising look belies the quality.

Order a traditional coffee brewed in pans of sand before waiting for kebabs cooked over flame and charcoal. The XXL is the size of a baseball bat and absolutely the best kebab we’ve yet tasted in Poland! ul.

Piłsudskiego 40 (Józefów)

KUR & WINO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz, as does a terrace crowded with crates and palms. ul.

Andersa 21

POGROMCY MEATÓW

Dude food doesn’t get much better.

Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

Eat! listings desserts AM’OR EKLERY I WINO

You want to covet the eclairs from each possible angle, recording the results on your phone before sending the pics out to all of your contacts. Featuring embellishments such as a swirly rainbow-colored unicorn mane, these are elegant creations filled with cream that’s so light you suspect it might float away.

Looking dashing in its shades of pastel pink and gold trim, the place looks the part as well. ul. Kurcza 23/31

BOZZO

As Poland’s first store specializing solely in ice cream and eclairs Bozzo have gained a devoted following in next to no time. Opened after ten-months of product testing, the results have reaped dividends with the French-style eclairs earning rave reviews. The work of pastry chef Adrian Edward Monik, the raspberry éclair is our hands-down winner.

Chmielna 27/31 & Dzielna 64

financiers, brownies, cookies and cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62

MOD DONUTS

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYC-style donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27

SŁODKI BEZ

Cake: good. Sugar: bad. We all know that. But what you might not know of is the existence of Słodki Bez, a small little store specializing in sugar-free desserts. And it’s not just sugar they’ve dispensed of altogether, but also white flour, gluten, lactose and all the other synthetic nasties that we’re meant to dislike. Using natural substitutes, find a rich array of cakes and sweets such as vegan banoffee pie, chocolate nut cake, chickpea

brownies, macarons, tarts and pralines. ul. Hoża 54, slodkibez.pl

f&b hubs BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Vying for the title of the year’s most exciting opening, find Browary in a revamped 19th century brewery once operated by Haberbusch and Schiele. Along with the sensitive retention and refit of original properties and elements such as the Villa Schiele, the Browary area has blossomed anew with features such as the vaulted brick cellars turned over to house a food hall.

Awash with food and drink options that include, among others, a sports bar and restaurant owned by Robert Lewandowski, as well as a three-floor flagship brewpub, it’s a place that’s as ambitious as it is aspirational. Of its numerous food and entertainment attractions, props also go to a cabaret-style ‘show restaurant’ and the marvelous Japonka restaurant and store. ul. Grzybowska 60

KUKUŁKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This is arguably Warsaw’s most adored dessert stop, and though cream puffs are the specialty, they know a thing or two about eclairs as well. Using seasonal ingredients, recent winners have included a barnstorming blueberry concoction.

ul. Mokotowska 52

MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches,

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Eat! listings CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Set in the revitalized space of a 19th century vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer. An island of prosperity in the otherwise largely gritty Praga suburb, props go to the Koneser Grill and Bombaj Masala. With the pandemic still lurking in the background, Koneser’s wide open plaza acts in its favor. Pl.

Konesera

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

A magnificent reinvention of a historic power plant that once kept the city fed with electricity today, it’s feeding Warsaw something a helluva’ lot more tastier. Comfortingly stringent in their hygiene practices, you swing in for a food court that’s dazzling in both its offer and visual impact: neon is king!

Cocktail bars, a craft beer point and an exhaustive selection of street food units (e.g. Philly cheese steak!) give cause to visit, but beyond these quite copious attractions, it is the retention of its historic character contrasted against the newly inserted elements that makes it such a visually enticing, standout hub. ul. Dobra 42

HALA GWARDII

Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market outside, find a natural gravity effect that works to benefit both Gwardii and Hala Mirowska. Operating only weekends, Gwardii has become a well-loved addition to Warsaw’s gastro scene, with its farmers’ market working well with the food booths on the other side of this historic hall. Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1

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HALA KOSZYKI

Introducing the absolutely bleeding obvious, Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays. Still highly influential, it remains one of the places in which to be seen. ul. Koszykowa 63

FORT MOKOTÓW

If you’ve not visited Fort Mokotów before, shame on you. Like entering a secret world, a potholed lane flanked by scraggly bushes opens up to reveal a former Tsarist era military complex whose battered brick fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies, art studios and assorted creative think tanks. Food and drink also play a role here, with the lead taken by Żywa Kuchnia, an eatery that promises to regenerate the mind and body with their “bio-active, healing foods”. Schodki, meanwhile, is just about the most atmospheric gem you’ll ever wish to find: a place of battered brick, creaking wood and tangled vines, it’s a sublime setting for a bottle or three. ul.

Racławicka 99

FORT 8

The penchant for reviving historical addresses and filling them with food and drink concepts has become a nationwide fixation, and Fort 8 stands as an example to all.

Set at the point where Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów all meet, this 19th century Tsarist barracks has been buffed up spectacularly and its vaulted units infilled with workshops, stores and restaurants.

Smashed sideways by the pandemic, the return of this upmarket bastion is good news for those that

appreciated the charms of Dziruka od Klucza, Fort Bistro and Wine Corner. ul. Fort Służew 1B

NORBLIN FOOD TOWN

Behold, Warsaw’s newest food hub! Set in the sympathetically restored Norblin Factory, you’re right to expect a banging atmosphere – food-wise, Tex-Mex, Israeli, Uzbek, Thai and Indian tastes are just some to look forward to. And next door, find the celebrated Bio Bazar We’re bringing you the full lowdown next issue, so watch this space. Żelazna 51/53

fine dining EPOKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other.

You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso has used the lockdown to simplify

Eat! listings his menu, a work which gives regional suppliers an all-star role.

But ‘simple’ is a relative term.

The Europejski Grill has not lost its sophistication, as proved by a summer visit that saw us bowled over by a as a hazelnut soup with fig leaves and wild rocket and an artichoke confit served with a lightly grilled shallot cured for six weeks. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

NOBU

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

NOLITA

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class.

Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit?

Two words: Jacek Grochowina.

Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul.

Wilcza 46

SIGNATURE

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate

of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul.

Poznańska 15

SZÓSTKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures.

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

georgian RUSIKO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

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Eat! listings greek & turkish MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos.

While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality.

ul. Londyńska 16

SANTORINI

Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul.

Egipska 7

indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA

Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes

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with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

CURRY HOUSE

Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54

KARMA

With an entrance half-hidden behind a little cabin, find it set within a hulking Socialist Realist block inside a unit that once ticked by selling wedding dresses. Now, this address sells something a lot more valuable: curry. Though a little drab inside, the curry is a contender for the Insider’s favorite of 2021. Outside the more generic items, Southern Indian cuisine is a specialty, and that’s affirmed by golden donut-shaped wada snacks, idli lentil rolls, fluffy uttapam pancakes and the altogether thinner dosa. ul. Nowolipki 14 (enter from Jana Pawła II)

italian DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their

spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one.

Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

korean THE COOL CAT

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

K-BAR

Co-owner Czesio has injected his life, soul (or is that Seoul?) and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling.

Like being buzzed into an artist’s

Eat! listings loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried.

For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab are nothing short of bliss. ul. Piękna 28/34

if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

latin & spanish polish (modern) CEVICHE BAR

With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander.

The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos.

Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4

mexican EL POPO

Age hasn’t wearied El Popo one iota. Old it might be, but that hasn’t been to the detriment of the atmosphere. A place of happiness, the full color of the Mexican kitchen is brought to life via the full-fisted flavors of chef Angel Aceves. ul.

Senatorska 27

LA SIRENA

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but

BARON THE FAMILY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life.

Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best!

Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

BEZ GWIAZDEK

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul. Wiślana 8

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej

Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin.

It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

THE EATERY

Terrazzo surfaces, orb-like lights and a clear white color palette give The Eatery a comfortable look that’s well-suited to a modern Polish menu delivered by chef Bartłomiej Trojanowski. Highlights from our visit – and there were many – included panko-crusted potato with creamy cottage cheese and pinches of charlock; art-like Ruskie pierogi; and a mushroom soup the like of which we haven’t tried before. Quite simply, think of The Eatery as the most unexpected pleasure you’ll discover all year. ul. Ostrobramska 73E

THE FARM

Preaching a message of farm-tofork, this ambitious eatery takes its produce seriously – to the extent they have their own farm in the lake district to the north. Adjusted with the seasons, the menu on our visited included a roe deer stewed in Ukiel beer and served in a pan under a light puff pastry. Using chunky woods, copper light fittings and black and white floor tiles, the interior finishing leaves no doubt you’re somewhere upmarket, but the overriding sensation is of being somewhere welcoming and warm. ul. Mokotowska 8

ŹRÓDŁO

The place looks great – hip but in tune with its retro address.

Hardwood floors, exposed pipes and a flurry of plants equip an open area decorated with blasts of contemporary art, recycled furnishings, and other Boho bits and bobs – it’s casual, quirky and full of personality.

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Being here is a buzz. The seasonal menu is likewise a pleasure, and on our trip in December included pierogi with rich mushroom stock and smoked cottage cheese and a thick slab of herring served on a brioche with smoked plum jam. With mains around the mid-30s, it’s outstanding value as well. ul. Targowa 81

polish (classic) PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31

steak houses BYKBAR

Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. ul. Rozbrat 8

BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital. ul. Żurawia 22

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HOŻA

Wine and steak: it sounds simple, but Hoża have taken two simple pleasures to another level. It’s an ebullient space with service right out of charm school, and a kitchen team with a real knowledge of cows.

A red-blooded affair, the menu is a steak sensation and well paired with a handpicked wine list. ul. Hoża 25A

KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going.

Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29

(Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. ul. Walecznych 64

thai THAI THAI

A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best.

Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors

and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. Pl. Teatralny 3

vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS

Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come. ul.

Mokotowska 58

Drink!

IT TAKES TWO As Valentine’s creeps closer, we take a look

at Warsaw’s best choices for drinks for two…

AFTER… THE CINEMA Charlie Kinoteka Pl. Defilad 1

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF CHARLIE

Every cocktail afficionado will know the Gatsby-esque Charlie on Mokotowska, but they’ve now opened a new location in the Palace of Culture. When you’re done with watching a film at Kinoteka (showing on Valentine’s: The Worst Man in the World), then slip into Charlie for sensual cocktails served in a breath-takingly plush environment. Leaving with PKiN looming above is itself an experience.

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Valentine's Day Jazz…

UP YOUR NIGHT Jassmine

Wilcza 73 (Nobu Hotel)

Dark and lush on the eye, Jassmine could easily play a cameo in a David Lynch flick: a more enthralling jazz bar you won’t find in Warsaw.

Already revealing their plans for Valentine’s, those checking-in will be doing so to listen to the Yilian Cañizares Resilience Trio.

Something…

FUN & FLIRTY VHS Bar

Poznańska 7

It’s back to the 80s in VHS, a pint-sized brick cellar embellished with flamingo pink neons and super fun cocktails fixed by staff in zany shirts.

And then there’s the matter of the wackiest toilet you’ll find in the city – you’ll be relieving yourself under the grinning gaze of Mitch Buchanan…

Aura

Hoża 27

A candidate for Warsaw’s smallest bar, this little corner of Hoża seduces with its sensually exotic air. Featuring a Moroccan-style design, it’s simultaneously snug and warming yet glamorously on-trend. The cocktails fit the mood perfectly.

Enjoy…

THE VIEW

Krakowskie Przedmieście 42/44 (Bristol Hotel)

Soft on the eye, its peachy-pink colors exude a stylish warmth – think elegant and luxurious but in a way that’s subtle and discreet. Featuring no shortage of brass, glass, stone and satin, the floaty ambience is lent further oomph by what we reckon to be the best lux cocktails in the city. The world class standards extend upstairs – make a night of it and check-in at reception to enjoy the five star comforts of the Bristol Hotel.

Doing so, you’ll be joining famous couples like JFK & Jackie.

Before…

AN OLD TOWN WALK

Loreta

Bar & Book s Podwale

When it comes to rooftop bars, there are certainly better and more dramatic views than those offered by Loreta – but this gets our vote not so much for the terrace wedged in the corner, but rather because the rest of the place just feels so right. Eclectic art, funky décor, inventive cocktails and a great playlist serve to click together and ensure a great night for two.

For fireside cocktails in a book-lined, wood-paneled parlor then look no further than Bar & Books. Soothing and sophisticated, trust the intuitive black tie service to find the drink for the moment. Given the location, it goes without saying that any Valentine’s evening spent here should conclude with a moonlit walk around the Old Town’s charming, misty streets.

Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

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Lane’s Gin Bar

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Wąski Dunaj 20

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE ED WIGHT, OPPOSITE COURTESY OF REGINABAR

Get… INTIMATE

Stay…

THE NIGHT

Valentine's Day Planning…

A NIGHT IN?

Natural Rascal Bottle Shop Hoża 61 (enter from ul. E. Plater)

Founded by interior designer Dominika Buck and film producer Radek Drabik, Warsaw’s most talked about importer have continued to make a splash ever since setting up a bricksand-mortar location on a trending stretch of lively Emili Plater. Specializing in natural wines sourced from small, artisanal wineries, the diverse and unconventional portfolio is rendered understandable by the helpful staff.

If you’re planning a night of home romance, stopping by here should be mandatory for all.

premier burlesque bar (and regular host of forensics lectures) you can most likely expect something extraordinary. Enjoy the show in a skull-decorated interior that summons the spirit of Edgar Allan Poe. Often touting macabre names, the original cocktails are a conversation starter as well.

When…

YOU’RE BY THE RIVER Kandela

Dobra 42 (Elektrownia)

Going…

SHOPPING? Ale Wino

Mokotowska 48

With its ritzy pre-war tenements and posh perfumeries and boutiques, no street evokes the same atmosphere as Mokotowska: here, you understand why Warsaw was once known as the Paris of the East. At Ale Wino, that feeling continues when you sidle through its labyrinth of corridors before setting your shopping bags down to enjoy food and wine that’s long been known as some of the best in the country.

Visiting…

THE OPERA? Bubbles

Piłsudskiego 9

A special date at the opera deserves a special drink after (or before) – find that at Bubbles, a bar-bistro whose très romantique ambiance is given extra glow through its dimmed lighting and warming sense of clutter. Moreover, you’ve got oysters and snails cooked to perfection. Meanwhile, the prodigious choice of champagne and sparkling wine really earns them their name.

Be… DIFFERENT Worek Kości Bagatela 10

There’s no word yet what Worek Kości’s Valentine’s offer will include, but as the city’s

Take… YOUR TINDER Reginabar

Koszykowa 1

With its retro NYC vibe, you can count on Regina Bar to deliver something fun, and this they’ve done by unleashing a new cocktail menu inspired by theclassic pop tracks of the Noughties, 90s and 80s before them. Titled Girls On Top, the menu is as fun and glitzy as the bar and the people inside it.

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Valentine's Day On a foggy February, a riverside walk can be both bracing and magical – doubly so if you combine it with nosing around the Museum of Modern Art. After, warm-up in Kandela, the upmarket bar found to the left of the neon-lit food hall in Elektrownia Powiśle.

Seeing…

ART? Long Bar

Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

Having ticked off a trip to the Zachęta Gallery, cross the windswept expanses of Pl. Piłsudskiego before settling into the Raffles Europejski. The public area’s themselves aren’t short on pricey domestic art, but it’s to the Long Bar you must head. The swoon-worthy design befits the Raffles brand, as do the lovingly composed cocktails. Whoever you’re with is going to feel a million bucks.

On… A FIRST DATE? La Buvette

Mochnackiego 4/43

There’s every chance it won’t be open on Valentine’s Night, but if that’s the case then store the address in your head. French-run, this side street charmer is a place feels romantic but relaxed rather than over-the-top. Quality-driven and authentic, its an ideal spot for a no-pressure date.

When…

YOUR STATUS IS COMPLICATED

Feeling…

RETRO?

Paloma Inn

Poznańska 21

Not much different to stepping inside an episode of The Jetsons, Paloma is a young, fun celebration of all things retro – but never does it feel stupid.

The cocktails are gorgeous, and you should enjoy them by sharing fondue and talking of the future.

The Shamrock

Every list needs a wildcard, so let the Shamrock be ours. First things first: this Irish pub is as basic as they come – and as for the toilet, it can be seriously distressing. But hey, people visit because this place is bloody good fun. Aimed more at a young international crowd (think Erasmus students, under-30s, etc.) rather than gloomy old men discussing Brexit, that’s reflected by events such as their Valentine’s ‘traffic light party’. Basically, turn up wearing green to announce you’re single, red to flag yourself as taken, and yellow if it’s complex…

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See… THE SPIRIT OF NEW WARSAW Piano Bar

Żelazna 51/53 (Norblin Factory)

Filled with glittering skyscrapers and revamped factory complexes, the atmosphere of New Warsaw comes alive around the heart of Wola. Crowned with a show-stealing chandelier, and simply oozing sophistication, the Piano Bar has come to be one of the city’s top check-ins; mixed and fixed by black-tie servers, you visit this venue to be wowed by the drinks and vibe.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE KEVIN DEMARIA

Zgoda 5

after work classics CENTRAL BAR

The natural focal point of Hala Koszyki is the Central Bar, a long, long space serving microbrews and classic cocktails under a spectacular wrought iron ceiling. Not many places feel as international, and four years after opening it remains one of Warsaw’s top check-ins. Talent spotting doesn’t get any better. ul.

Koszykowa 63 (Hala Koszyki)

DZIEŃ I NOC

Looking insta friendly with its interior of brickwork, succulents and marble-topped tables, Dzień I Noc have earned a cult following since opening at the height of the pandemic. Offering authors cocktails and mainstream beers, it offers the promise of a solid night out in these paranoid times. Pl. Mirowski 1

ELEKTROWNIA POWISŁE

The indoor food hall indoors opens out into a sea of neon signs and a sleek, professional crowd posing for selfies over cocktails. And yes, drinks are every bit as important here as the food. Choose between a craft beer vending station or the two principle bars that bookend the complex: Centrala Bar at one end or the more cocktail-driven Kandela at the other.

(E3) ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapow-

isle.com

LEGENDS

Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to

watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. ul. Emilii Plater 25,

legendsbar.pl

WOZOWNIA

Wozownia brings together a good-looking crowd inside a 200-year-old carriage house whose competent cocktails and cheapy Prosecco keep it busy. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Pl.

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cocktails AURA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons. ul. Hoża 27

BAR WIECZORNY

Fixed by some of the biggest names in Polish cocktail culture, the cocktails are a serious biz here and neatly complimented by a beautiful garden set with crates and little lights dangling from the trees. Mokotów doesn’t have the best reputation for nightlife, but in Wieczorny the area has a star of some legend. ul. Wiśniowa 46

CHARLIE

Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. ul. Mokotowska 39

EL KOKTEL

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. ul.

Wojciecha Górskiego 9

FLAMING BISTRO

With its perfect white colors, the glass-fronted oblong form of this pearl of interwar modernism has an elegant sophistication to it that’s ravishing to look at. But it becomes even more so out the back. It’s here you’ll find a garden that’s been in-filled with well-spaced wooden decks hiding amid the vegetation and plant life. A garden in the truest sense of the word, the best view is from the balcony on top. Accessed via a glorious spiral staircase, it’s from here you gaze down on the impeccable Saska crowd that gathers below to sip sparkly wines, house lemonades and author’s cocktails. ul. Francuska 2

LONG BAR

Posh doesn’t begin to cover it.

Clad in smooth marble, natural

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Drink! listings oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. ul. Krakowskie

NOLA

LANE’S GIN BAR

nolabar.pl

Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

Perfectly proportioned, it’s intimate enough to feel like a private members club, and that sense of personalization peaks when seated at a bar that presents a motherlode of glimmering bottles set against a mosaic that gently riffs on the Hotel Bristol’s Art Nouveau and Art Deco spirit. But do not think of this as simply a hotel bar. World class in style and offer (and prices!), head barman Karol Rybacki has mixed for names like DiCaprio, Connery, Rihanna and Madonna.

His inspirational drinks are enjoyed in a high-ceilinged room that looks achingly sensual with its plush pink fabrics and stunning geometric light installation. ul. Krakowskie

Przedmieście 42/44

LORETA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher.

As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup. ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

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NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana.

Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe. ul. Wilcza 43,

PALOMA INN

the avant garde. ul. Koszykowa 1

VHS BAR

An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff, and enjoy them on a pavement terrace that teems with life and laughter once evening strikes. Poznańska 7

WARSZAWA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found in a saucer-shaped building that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. It’s nothing less than super cool. ul.

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, it’s a joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curvaceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’.

Groovy muzak provides the audio, whilst the crowd is young, international and thirsty – the author’s cocktails are great, with our winner being the Green Bubble (melon liquor, cognac, tarragon, lemon juice and fizzy water). For food, order fondue or herring served with vegan caviar in the layered style of an éclair.

craft beer

REGINABAR

BEER STATION CENTRUM

ul. Poznańska 21

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust.

Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with

Kruczkowskiego 3B

Traipse down a plunging set of stairs to reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness.

Proudly Belarussian run, the welcome from the owners is warm, sincere and never short on cheer.

Stay here for an hour and you’ll feel you’ve known them for years. For booze, there’s twelve beers on tap and these include some excellent craft swigs along with more standard drinks. ul. Lwowska 17

Drink! listings BROWAR WARSZAWSKI

Beer is central to the swank-looking Browar Warszawski, and running that side of operations is the skilled Dawid Bąk. There’s 18 house beers on tap, and they do a grand job of broadly introducing Poland’s crafty direction. Recognizing that not everyone likes beer (!), they also fix a mean cocktail – the Browar Sour, based on Ostoya vodka, is brill.

Feeling reassuringly cosmopolitan, it’s become one of the Insider’s favorite watering holes. ul. Haberbus-

cha i Schielego 2

CHMIELARNIA MARSZAŁKOWSKA

A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. ul.

Marszałkowska 10/16

CRAFT BEER MURANÓW

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should.

Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers. ul. Andersa 23

CZEŚĆ

It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of

‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage)

DRUGIE DNO

To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station.

Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. ul. Nowogrodzka 4

JABEERWOCKY

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced

by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul. Nowogrodzka 25

PINTA

Taking the space once occupied by the ill-fated Mikkeller Bar, Pinta’s flagship bears many of the hallmarks of the previous tenant: a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and chunks of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant. Pinta, if you don’t know, can be considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft beer scene, and this bar gives their portfolio the attention it deserves. ul.

Chmielna 7/9

RAJ PIWOSZA

For those living on the city’s right side, Raj Piwosza became a legend of the lockdown – an off-license and general lifeline selling an emphatic choice of craft beers, niche wines and other artisanal liquid somethings. Perhaps driven by the discovery of the area’s thirst for their offerings, they’ve gone another step by launching a bar with a similarly exhaustive selection of drinkies. Set in a newish residential development on the frontline of Grochów, Gocław, Saska Kępa, it’s a sure bet to become a neighborhood essential. ul. Bora-Komorowskiego 56A

SAME KRAFTY

Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. ul. Nowomiejska 10

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Drink! listings dive bars 2KOŁA

Sat in the abandoned backspaces and brickyards behind Zachodnia station, 2Koła feels like Warsaw’s dirtiest little secret. Still stained and smelling of grease and oil, this former garage is piled high with dented sofas, warehouse palettes and motorcycling detritus. Yet the supremely friendly owners have turned this shadowy lair into a cult bar that’s specifically celebrated for rowdy jam sessions that cover everything from ragtime to rockabilly. ul. Tunelowa 2B

CZESKA BASZTA

Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow.

Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays.

Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

MIEJSCE CHWILA

Surviving the move from their former digs is the giant mural of a weather-worn babcia, and it’s under her watery gaze that drinkers congregate to make the most of a decent fridge generously stocked with specialty beers from Poland’s more leftfield producers.

Also successfully enduring the challenges of their cross-city move is the underlying spirit that made them so famous. Defiantly arty in its character, the creative mood that prevails manifests itself in a quirky design that involves retro accents, refurbed armchairs, a neon

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of Lennon and the compelling illustrations of Izabela Wójtowicz. ul. Żurawia 47

NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as murk and chaos. Find them through the passageway at Nowy Świat 26.

OFFSIDE

Located opposite a mural of a giant goose and a gaudy statue of retro football star Kazimierz Deyna, this wreck announces its intention from the off with a piece of graffiti over the bar declaring that, “this is not a f***ing cocktail bar”. Despite the somewhat threatening slogan, it’s a place of amiable anarchy and warm camaraderie. The neo Berlin aesthetic sits well with a crowd composed of maverick artists, local radicals and volunteers from Poland’s first ‘democratic’ football club, AKS ZŁY. ul. Brzeska 16

PARADOX

Billing themselves as a ‘sci-fi / gamers / role play asylum’ this is a cradle of geeks, nerds and people who collect serial killer memorabilia. Decorated with a map of Mordor and figurines of goblins, watch as oddly attired suspects engross themselves in ‘for hire’ games with names like Hobbit and Bewoulf. ul. Anielewicza 2

ŚWIETLICA

Long and narrow, dark and murky,

it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

W OPARACH ABSURDU

Somewhere, buried beneath the Persian rugs, dusty velvety drapes and wobbling antiques, you may find a bar. On your way, obstacles in this louche dive may include vodka fueled grans, script-writing beatniks and the trumpet tooting members of the Bum Bum Orchestra. Expect the unexpected. ul. Ząbkowska 6

ULUBIONA

Set inside the archway, look for a heavy door next to a dented ashtray seemingly unemptied for the last couple of months. Shadowy and shabby, you’ll usually find barflies strumming guitars or engrossed in a solo game of chess. An intensely personal experience, it’s a bar that compensates for its lack of glitz with a stoner-style ambiance that soon sweeps over all. ul. Nowy

Świat 27

for gentlemen 1 SUN SALON

For something naughty but nice 1 Sun Salon offers body-to-body tantric massage with just about the happiest ending you could possibly wish for. Staffed with flighty college girls, and equally welcoming to stag groups as they are business travelers, head here to wallow in plush VIP rooms while every whim and fancy is satisfied and served. ul.

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Drink! listings late night legends BAR PACYFIK

Seemingly based upon the kind of Tijuana dive bar you’d have happened upon during the Miami Vice era, Pacyfik is all candy floss pink and shades of teal: a raw-looking den that looks purposefully imperfect. Keeping the hip international crowd on the wrong side of drunk are kick-ass drinks such as their Clamado Michelada or Kimchi Bloody Mary – three sips and you think you’re Superman. ul.

Hoża 61

BAR STUDIO

The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Pl. Defilad 1

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international voices. ul. Poznańska 12

FOTON

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Looking good with a design that’s startlingly simple yet beautifully composed, think raw materials, steel frames and a vast, green fleet of tumbling plants. The F&B ain’t bad either with Latin American street bites and a dynamic cocktail list involving exotica such as chili mango margaritas. Most of all though, it’s the atmosphere you return for. ul.

Wilcza 9A

GRAM

Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... ul.

Marszałkowska 45/49

KLUBOKAWIARNIA TOWARZYSKA

Saska’s nightlife is limited to the point of being virtually non-existent, so the existence of Towarzyska is welcome indeed. Set inside a 1950s pavilion and signposted by zippy neon sign, find a cool café on ground level, and a moodier space downstairs that has the atmospheric feel of a David Lynch film. Craft beers and a smoking zone earn bonus points. ul. Zwycięzców 49

THE SHAMROCK

The Shamrock is little more than a shabby bare room lit by a greenish Carlsberg sign. But the dearth of aesthetic thrills is compensated via its atmosphere. Find a melting pot of nationalities slopping beers over each other while shouting

their orders to Curtis and his family behind the bar – high on noise and bellowed banter, the atmosphere cranks yet further whenever Curtis grabs his guitar to lead his audience in song. Paying more attention to craic than interior bric-a-brac, it’s a lively night and one enjoyed by an audience that’s largely under 30. ul.

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live entertainment CENTRUM ZARZĄDZANIA ŚWIATEM

Covering a couple of levels (and including a secret room snuck behind a bookcase), this social-cultural space is best described as a composition of molecules that celebrate the suburb: balustrades from Targowa street, street lights from Park Praski and no shortage of murals from local talents. And the toilets? Step inside a cargo container. Something of a multi-use environment, you might walk into a flamenco evening one night and improv comedy performances the next. ul. Okrzei 26

HYDROZAGADKA / CHMURY

Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the low-ceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

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Drink! listings KLUB POGŁOS

This alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12

PLAN B

Plan B is the quintessence of dive Warsaw. Weekends pass by in a raucous blur, with the party spilling out under the colonnades outside – it helps to look like a DJ, but in truth everyone is welcome to this hive of debauchery. ul. Wyzwolenia 18 (Pl. Zbawiciela)

WOREK KOŚCI

H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. ul. Bagatela 10

specialty coffee COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white

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colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-theclock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Wilcza 42

COFFEEDESK PRÓŹNA

Already established thanks to an uber-cool location on Wilcza, discover their latest outpost sitting on gloriously restored pre-war Próżna. Featuring brick finishes, warm woods and elegant lighting, the commitment to quality is underlined by a wall of coffee ephemera, a pair of La Marzocco machines and a glassed-in coffee lab set aside for trainings and workshops. ul. Próźna 7

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul.

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COPHI II

Already established on Hoża as one of Warsaw’s favorite sources of specialty coffee, Cophi have cast their net a little further (and we mean a little – as in 500 meters or so) to cover Lwowska.

And what a gem it is: personally designed by Uri, the owner, find a

bijou space lavished in shades of candy cotton pink and rich, forest green; finished with a healthy, heavy dose of fresh wood, poster art and patterned floor tiles, it’s a place you’d like to hang around in.

ul. Lwowska 2A

DOBRE MATERIA

Sleek low-lying black chairs hold the line with the bottom of the window pane encouraging gazing and making for an easy lounging experience. Hits of yellow in the porcelain cups provide a nice little accent, whilst there’s a few tables capable of holding a laptop should you fancy a bit of remote working.

Coffee comes from the likes of HAYBE, Heresy, Five Elephant and the Bydgoszcz-based Norwegian roaster Audun Sørbotten, though the cakes – from vegan producers such as Miód Makina and Sadki – should not be overlooked either. ul. Nowolipki 13

FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a half-mad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul. Andersa 6

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in

Drink! listings a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends. ul. Niemcewicza 3

FORUM

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. ul. Fabryczna 28/30

KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK

This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,”

says the owner), is a thing of legend. ul. Łucka 18

RELAKS

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul.

Puławska 48

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural

by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking

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Drink! listings edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. ul. Wilcza 17

ROŚLINA

Set in the heart of Stare Bielany – an attractive, inter-war development not dissimilar to the leafier parts of Saska and Żoliborz – there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the golden autumn head to the magical little garden to the side. ul.

Schroegera 80

SACRED MILL BREW BAR

Through a heavy glass door visitors enter a space that’s minimal in size and design – lots of dark, hard surfaces offset by whites and charcoal colors and a few green succulents. As a look, it’s clean and intelligent and entirely fitting with the area. But you ain’t here for the design. The winner here is coffee, and coffee as roasted by Sacred Mill since February of 2021. Focused but not limited to African coffees, find this crew following Nordic roasting practice which, it transpires, means light roasted coffees of consistent quality. ul. Grzybowska 43A

STOR

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul.

Tamka 33

U KRAWCA

Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as

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a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. ul. Siennicka 3

wine bars ALE WINO

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. ul.

Mokotowska 48

BUBBLES

Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance.

A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Damn right there’s a lot to like at Bubbles, but there’s even more to love. Pl. Piłsudskiego 9

CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE

Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu, too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the

wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab. ul.

Koszykowa 49A

LA BUVETTE

La Buvette sits like a hidden gem, nestled on a charming street that radiates off Stara Ochota’s Pl. Narutowicza – tree-lined and looking like a cloned version of a picturesque arrondissement of Paris, it’s a pleasure to sit on the terrace. And if you’ve got a tiny dog, you’ll fit right in! Come evening, pick through boards of gourmet cheese whilst sipping on a curated choice of French wines picked by co-owner Harold, a native of Strasbourg. ul.

Mochnackiego 4/43

MIELŻYŃSKI WINE BAR

Tangled in vines and creeping ivy, this brick warehouse comes into its element each summer when drinkers pile outside to drink amid rustling trees and pristine lawns. Set within a former factory compound, the area has been revived with the legendary Mielżyński Wine Bar at its core. A flagbearer when it comes to consistency and quality, this post-industrial space remains a default favorite of the Warsaw public. ul. Burakowska 5/7

RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ

Formerly a restaurant serving pre-war cuisine, Rausz na Wilczej used the pandemic to reposition themselves as a wine store / bar, building on their previous reputation for sourcing quirky labels you wouldn’t have necessarily heard of before. “In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” In addition to their Spanish, Italian and French collections, find excellent wines from less familiar destinations: Slovenia, Czech, Austria and Georgia. ul. Wilcza 27

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF SAUNA WISŁA

WINTER WARMER

With Warsaw experiencing its harshest winter for years, news that a riverside sauna has launched has been lapped up by the public.

Created as part of the city’s Civic Budget, and overseen by the team at Miami Wars, the project is being dubbed the first floating sauna on the Wisła. Offering scenic waterfront views of the harbor, the intimate facility is free at certain times and open from 6 a.m. to midnight.

Available also for private hire, added bonuses include an onsite lifeguard should you dare to take an icy dip in the waters outside.

Sauna Wisła Port Czerniakowski 136, miamiwars.pl/sauna-wisla

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LAST CHANCE

EXHIBIT: NIKIFOR Wrapping up on Feb 27th, you’re in the last chance saloon to view the extraordinary works of Nikifor…

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ften judged to be one of the greatest naïve artists of all time, the Ethnographic Museum explores the works of Nikifor in a temporary exhibition that’s set to close its doors at the end of February. Presenting 135 works made by the artist on paper using watercolors, gouache, pencils and crayons, the exhibition covers an exhaustive range of topics explored by the painter: landscapes, urban and fantasy architecture, train stations, interiors of temples and stores, saintly figures and so forth.

Though varied in their content, the paintings bear all the hallmarks of Nikifor

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and the influence of Greek Catholicism, the Lemko culture and his hometown of Krynica. Blessed with copious natural talent and a superb grasp of color, his works have been appreciated by a number of eminent Polish artists such as Jan Cybis, Alfons Karny and Edward Dwurnik. In fact, according to Aleksander Jackowski, “over a thousand articles have been written about Nikifor, and four films made and several books published – just about more than any other Polish painter and probably more than any creator of naïve art.”

Born in 1895, his mother, a Lemko, worked as a maid in Krynica’s many guest-

houses whilst his father was unknown. Often perceived as disabled due to his speech impediment and poor hearing, he lived a largely lonely life and used art not just as a way to earn a living, but also to connect to a world that he didn’t seem born for.

Only through a combination of talent, self-belief, vivid imagination and iron will was he able to achieve success.

Reputedly ‘discovered’ by Roman Turyn in 1930, it was this Lviv-based painter that gave Nikifor his big break, and a 1931 exhibition in Lviv was followed the next year by a show in Paris.

With his career disrupted by the war, peace brought no respite and Nikifor was forcibly resettled in 1947 as part of Operation Vistula, a government program that saw the Lemkos ripped from their ancestral homelands.

Only in the final years of his life did his work meet the widespread appreciation it warranted, with arguably his greatest living moment coming with a successful exhibition at Warsaw’s Zachęta Gallery.

A victim of circumstance, it wasn’t until after he died that Nikifor would truly come to prominence. Alicja Mironiuk Nikolska, the exhibition’s curator, says: “With this exhibition, I wanted to draw attention to the issue of including people with disabilities in the circulation of culture, as well as to educate people about the presence and role of ethnic minorities in out nationwide image.”

PRESS MATERIAL (4)

Ethnographic Museum ul. Kredytowa 1, ethnomuseum.pl

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasto 28-42, muzeumwarszawy.pl

UNSEEN & UNSUNG Ongoing until midMarch, this temporary exhibition examines the lives of Warsaw’s domestic female workforce…

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ot so much overlooked as forgotten entirely, the Museum of Warsaw’s latest exhibition (Unseen – Stories of Warsaw’s Servants) seeks to cast light on the women that worked as domestic servants in the Polish capital. Numbering 40,000 at the beginning of the 20th century, it was these females that “occupied backstage positions in the theater of everyday life.”

Marginalized by history, these women attended to household chores, cleaned houses and apartments, cooked meals and did the laundry. Covering six rooms in all, over 400 historical items and contemporary

artworks have been arranged to tell their story in a linear manner reflective of the journey that the domestic worker endured from the moment they arrived in Warsaw through to their recruitment and the performance of their daily chores.

Along the way, visitors will learn of their complex relationships with their landlords and employees, the role of trade unions and charities not to mention their representation in the media of the time. Leaving no stone unturned, the exhibition also focuses in on domestic workers during the PRL period and demonstrates just how valuable they were to the life of the city in the decades preceding. warsawinsider.pl

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learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics.

Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact

admissions@aswarsaw.org

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education.

BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Elementary Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Tatrzańska 5a

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

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reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

18.12.2018 12:32

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin.

The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age.

ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education

with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15.

The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and

accepts children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@theenglishplayhouse.com

ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6

years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A (entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a system that is focused on

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

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the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728

939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been welcoming students from around the

world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma.

All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:

admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS).

Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applica-

NEW NURSERY GROUPS Wilanów and Mokotów location Applications now open! www.tep.edu.pl

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admissions@tep.edu.pl

696 904 687

tions from Nursery to Year 9. Please

email admissions@bswilanow.org to organise a visit

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education.

They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the primary education ages, just as

children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning

environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15.

The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL Treating

pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta

131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school. The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education. ul.

Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

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WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided.

Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów

4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna

as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul. Tatrzańska 5A

(grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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shopping accessories BEAUTYLAB POLSKA

Rated as one of the biggest names in global cosmetics, the range of treatments run from anti-ageing to daily body care and essential skin care. beautylablondon.pro

EYEBAR

At Eyebar the expert team meets needs through their perfect eyebrow care and makeup products. If you dream about having the perfect brows, their sets are available from Eyebar salons or online at our website. eyebar.pl

GLAMSTORE

Widely hailed by Poland’s fashion glossies, this store sells modern furnishings with all the trimmings and colors you could ask for. They also stock kitchen and bathroom accessories, as well as touting their own jewelry line. ul. Narbutta 83

LEKKO

Lekko offer four specialized oils that are strong but gentle and sharpen the senses. Using CBD extracts, they strongly focus on concepts of selfcare and wellbeing. made from the highest quality crops and sourced from farms run in accordance with the principles of sustainable agriculture, all products are approved by verified labs. lekko.com

SCHUBERT

Rings, bracelets, necklaces and watches produced using the finest Baltic amber. Or for a unique gift, how about an amber chess set or an amber cigarette lighter? ul. Piwna 12/14, ul. Piwna 26, ul. Świętojańska 11, worldofamber.pl

fashion

Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

experiences ARKADIA

MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE

Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry,

Not many Polish malls do it better.

Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al.

Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

PLAC UNII

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

MYSIA 3

Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

DISCOVER POLIN MUSEUM warsawinsider.pl

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss…

FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space.

The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

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rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge.

The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created

by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon.

Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day.

Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street.

That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country.

Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced.

But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

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4 9 km

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

St

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

ska bow

Grzy

2

4 a zysk tokr Swie

ta

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

9

11

1

8 2

3

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2022

3 4 km

7

MAP 5

6

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

3

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

9

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

6

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

3

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

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This Month HEART OF THE MATTER!

With Valentine’s Day approaching, refamiliarize yourself with some of the city’s best-known hearts…

CHURCH OF THE HOLY CROSS

ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 3 As per his dying wish, Chopin’s heart was smuggled back to Warsaw after the composer died in France. Preserved in a crystal jar filled with cognac, the grisly relic was then encased inside a column in the Church of the Holy Cross. Surviving the Warsaw Uprising after it was reputedly hidden in the town of Milanowek, the heart was returned to the church after the war only to be briefly exhumed in 2014 in a secret ceremony undertaken to assess its general state. Swiftly reinterred thereafter, its next check-up has been scheduled for 2064.

I LOVE WARSAW!

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Warsaw Insider | FEBRUARY 2022

MOSTEK ZAKOCHANYCH

ul. Przyczółkowa 394 Unveiled in 2012, this cutesy12-meter bridge is best enjoyed at night when fully illuminated. Embellished with three hearts that arc over the dinky walkway, it’s become a tradition for couples to snap their own lovelock to the railings before heading further to explore the achingly romantic gardens of Wilanów Palace.

SHUTTERSTOCK(3)

Pl. Europejski It was the Warsaw Spire that first set the ball rolling in terms of Wola’s redevelopment, but it wasn’t just the skyscraper itself that proved a success. On ground level, the public space surrounding the Spire has become symbolic of the area’s second life, and no feature is more loved than the heart-shaped Kocham Warszawę sign. But that’s not the only heard on Pl. Europejski. Look up to see another presented on a mural designed

by Belgian comic book guru Francois Schuiten and the renowned poster artist Rafał Olbinski.

WARSAW'S BIGGEST For Warsaw at its best, visit us at Hala Gwardii for good vibes, the city's top food market, international street food tastes, traditional Polish products and a busy list of events aimed at young and old alike – winter doesn’t have to be boring!

For more, see: www.facebook.com/halagwardii

BUZZ Open Friday through Sunday Plac Żelaznej Bramy halagwardii.pl