Warsaw Insider November 2021 #303

The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

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NOVEMBER 2021 Features:

Żoliborz Unmasking Warsaw’s garden suburb – p. 8 Interior Design Studio 370 – p. 3

Interview Author John Lynch – p. 6 Unmissable! The Eatery – p. 37 Something Different? Alt. wine points – p. 56

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Contents November 2021

Reviews: EAT!

Miss Banh Mi – p. 33 Foodie News – p. 34 Patelnia Patera – p. 34 The Eatery – p. 37

DRINK! Pizzaiolo – p. 53 Elektryk – p. 54 Alt. Wine Points – p. 56

DISCOVER

Zdzisław Beksiński – p. 65

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, COVER PHOTO BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Ursula von Rydingsvard – p. 73

LET IT NOT BE SAID OTHERWISE, November doesn’t half do melancholy well. Starting off with the entire country decamping to the nearest cemetery, the following days and weeks see Warsaw disappearing under a bleak blanket of smog – it comes like clockwork and doesn’t lift for months. And if that weren’t enough, then let’s toot the trumpet to herald the return of another auld enemy: creeping ever higher, the country’s covid stats have added a twitchy uncertainty to all in the city. So, with the bad news out of the way, let’s focus instead on your reasons to live. This issue, we present one in particular: Żoliborz. Feeling particularly atmospheric at this time of year, join us for an in-depth exploration of its hidden nooks and stories – from Vikings to Bowie via a party with Picasso. With that out of the way, learn too what’s happening in the world of restaurant design, and settle in for a chinwag with author John Lynch. Beyond, neither are we short on the latest news from the F&B frontline: this month, that means a world record-breaking tower of pancakes, an eatery from Robert Lewandowski and our jewel of the season in the darkest depths of Praga. Enjoy it all!

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

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PORTRAIT BY ALEKSANDRA MISZKURKA

INTERVIEW

By Design…

From humble beginnings, 370 Studio have grown to become one of the mightiest, trendsetting forces of Polish restaurant design – founders Anna, Katarzyna and Michał reveal the secrets of their success…

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Interview WI: It’s impossible to begin with anything but your work on Robert Lewanowski’s new restaurant – how did this project differ from your others? 370: Robert’s incredible popularity definitely added a layer of sociological and marketing considerations. We had to think how to create a restaurant that would give customers what they expected, whilst also ensuring it didn’t simply become a temple to him. That made this a real challenge, but I think by referring to sports culture in general we avoided the anticipated traps.

our beliefs. We still love our work and have built a fantastic team on the back of those basics.

What trends have you noticed? The current reality has demonstrated you have to be prepared for EVERYTHING. It’s emphasized the need for creativity – and above all else flexibility – and that applies as much to the La Sirena (Warsaw, 2016) hospitality sector as anywhere else. Restaurants are now having to think about takeaway options more than ever before and adapting themselves for that. This doesn’t just mean that With regards to Nine’s Restau- their food needs to be rethought rant & Sports Bar, what details to match this demand, but also that their space needs to be should we look for? adjusted – for example, they We tried not to hide anything, but some details are more visible need to think of pick-up zones than others – pitch markings on for delivery firms. Bar Koszyki (Warsaw, 2016) the ground, old lockers in the cloakroom, and even a kayak hanging from the ceiling. The layout of the seats in the events area, meanwhile, is arranged in the form of a spectator stand inside a stadium – that makes it quite possibly the only sports bar in the world in which you can watch a match from a real stand! We caught up with you a few years ago – your work has gone stratospheric since then! What’s the secret to your success. Ha – thanks! Yes, we’ve developed significantly and have started designing abroad as well as working on hotel projects so that we cover the A to Z of the hospitality industry. Moreover, we’ve written articles, lectured at conferences and expanded our offices. What’s the secret to all that? We’ve remained true to ourselves and haven’t compromised

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

We’ve remained true to ourselves and haven’t compromised our beliefs

How has the pandemic changed restaurant design? Honestly? The pandemic primarily affected investors. The prolonged lockdown and subsequent restrictions significantly impacted the financial situation of restaurants and the number of openings. In terms of design, we’ve always taken into account flexibility when it comes to table spacing and zoning, so Talerzyki (Warsaw, 2017)

For more on 370 Studio, see: 370studio.com

social media! What are your golden rules? First, to always keep the guest in mind – a venue needs to be intimate and interesting. Second, be smart. Design solutions need to make an impression whilst meetAre there any design mistakes ing budget (which quite often isn’t high). Lastly, the place should be that make you groan… timeless – it needs to look familiar, There’s a real fashion to create as if it’s always been around. ‘instagramable’ spaces – but though they might look good on social media, in reality they just Is there a project that you don’t cause you to linger. People think really ‘made’ your reputation and set the ball rolling? take their photos and leave. We’ve had a few clients that have We’ve had several milestones but I think the first was La Sirena. The approached us saying that an success was entirely due to the architect designed a beautiful amazing chemistry we had with space for them, but customers just didn’t want to seem to stay. the owners. We fueled each other with crazy ideas and the result It's worth remembering that was a hugely imaginative interior there’s more to design than

that the public fell in love with.

Dziurka od Klucza (Warsaw, 2019)

Zkurczybyk (Warsaw, 2019)

Mamma (Kołobrzeg, 2020)

Fromażeria (Poznań, 2020)

Nines (Warsaw, 2021)

Młodnik (Katowice, 2021)

in that respect our processes haven’t changed all that much. However, even with that in mind, we’ve noted a growing interest in food garden projects as well as a need to include waiting areas for delivery orders.

Are there any recent projects that have left you totally thrilled! Młodnik in Katowice. Basically, a family bakery entrusted us with creating a restaurant for them and it turned into a real project of passion for everyone involved. We created an elegant space with warm woody vibes, atmospheric colors and materials and lots of greenery, and since opening its grown to become a real foodie destination for diners across the region. In our mind, it’s the perfect marriage between food, design and music. Mostly though, it was amazing to work with an investor that put so much of their heart into the place.

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Interview down by facts and real people, the story came pretty easily. It was great fun creating all the characters, so while I’d say thirty percent is rooted in reality, this should most definitely be treated as a work of fiction. You mention catharsis – how traumatic was the whole experience of seeing everything you’d work for suddenly swept from underfoot? Hugely. I created reasons as to why and how it happened in the book, but in real life I remain none the wiser. Never did I think that I could lose a company I’d spent twenty years building overnight. Genuinely, it was seriously debilitating.

Inspired by true events, long-term American expat and entrepreneur John Lynch talks about his debut novel, The Ark…

WI: What motivated you to pick up the pen in the first place? JL: I think I’m quite a three-dimensional person, so although I’ve been running my own business, Lynka, for nearly 30-years now, writing was always something of a passion – I used to be a regular columnist for the Warsaw Business Journal and a British clothing magazine, so it was never the case that I suddenly woke up one day and decided on writing a book. It was a dream of mine years ago, and finally the right story came to me.

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The Ark is based on true events – but what does that mean. How much is truth, how much is fiction? The skeleton of the story, that is how a private equity fund tried to take over my business, well that actually happened. During the battle to rescue my firm I started taking copious notes – mainly for legal reasons. Later, partly as a sort of catharsis, I began writing the experience up. Honestly though, it just didn’t work so instead I found myself taking the factual concept and fictionalizing it. Once I did that, and once I found myself not tied

After being blindsided like this, how do you pick yourself up? First of all, I learned never to let a crisis takeover your life. At first, I thought I’d end up having a heart attack. In a twist of fate, though, right in the midst of my crisis, I was invited to a small, private meeting with the Dalai Lama in Prague and it ended up completely changing my perspective. After, I took an utterly new approach. “If I lose everything, then I’ll just start again”. I calmed down a lot and realized the value of manipulating my own emotions. I’ve always been an optimist, so when I realized

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THE ARK

How does Poland come out in all of this? What happened to me was incredibly rare, and in a no way should either my book or my personal experience be seen as an indictment on this country. If anything, it was a validation of the rule of law here. Yes, the wheels moved tremendously slowly, but truth prevailed. Never was there a hint of corruption from the Polish judges.

Times have changed… Being an entrepreneur in 1991 was a thankless task. We had fifteen people but just one telephone line between them – if someone was on the phone, that basically meant the rest

launching a business, but that doesn’t explain away 30-years of life. There’s obviously a lot more to it than that. There’s a sense of history here as well as a mental toughness and humor born from those historic hardships. Furthermore, I get the idea that Poles are still rejoicing from the fall of communism 30plus years back. It’s great to be around that positive energy.

“What a debut! And what a thriller. Bravo – give me more!”

““A fast-paced thriller. The David & Goliath of global fashion and ﬁnance.”

Agata Młynarska TVN Discovery, Co-Founder WOŚP, Women’s Advocate

A story inspired by real events.

is an American entrepreneur, writer, and speaker who lives in Poland since 1991. He was one of the ﬁrst expatriates to launch a start-up (“Lynka”) in Poland in the aftermath of the fall of communism. John was awarded the Gold Cross of Merit from President Komorowski, and was named one of the 10 American Pioneers who made the greatest contributions to the successful transformation of Poland. He is former Entrepreneur of the Year in Poland. John has Polish roots – his great-grandmother was from Białystok. He is ﬂuent in Polish. John has an engineering degree from Lehigh University and an MBA from The Wharton School. John was a regular columnist for The Warsaw Business Journal and Images – a UK apparel magazine.

He lives with his wife Kasia, an English teacher, and two children Kuba and Zosia outside Krakow. The Ark is John’s literary debut, inspired by his own real experiences. The world premiere of the book takes place in Poland.

Georgette Mosbacher US Ambassador to Poland (2018-21)

Praise for The Ark: “… a dynamic, fast-paced thriller. I couldn’t put it down.” Hon. Georgette Mosbacher US Ambassador to Poland (2018-2021)

Truman Chase is a young aspiring New York fashion designer with a vision. Fate leads him to Krakow, Poland where he falls in love and builds a successful fashion house, TruCo. His dream is within his grasp – that is, until a mysterious investment group comes after him.

“What a debut! And what a thriller. Bravo – give me more!”

Fernando Tomasi, is a Gucci-wearing Wall Street flunky with a hair spray addiction and a penchant for hostile takeovers. The unscrupulous son of a wealthy Latino family, he builds his own fund The Ark. When The Ark almost capsizes due to Fernando’s greed, he frantically searches for the millions needed to keep it afloat. Fernando targets TruCo and wages war against Truman.

“The Ark has everything that we love in a thriller: emotions, money, fascinating characters.”

Agata Młynarska TVN Discovery, Co-Founder WOŚP, Women’s Advocate

Waldemar Kumor, Culture editor , Newsweek (Polska)

Now Truman stands to lose everything. Can he find the faith and strength to defend his life’s work and build his dream?

JOHN LYNCH

Two Men. Two Dreams. One Battle.

“Everything that we love in a thriller: emotions, money, fascinating characters. Plus, the unique perspective of an American in Poland.” Waldemar Kumor Culture editor, Newsweek (Poland)

“The Ark throws the reader into the simultaneously hopeful, chaotic, and dangerous world that is Central and Eastern Europe in the post-Soviet era …” Kenneth Fairfax The White House. National Security Council Director for Russia, Ukraine & Eurasia (ret.)

Madia patrons:

If it was all so challenging, why the hell did you strike out on your own in the first place? I came over to Poland in 1991 as part of a volunteer program to aid Poland’s post-communist transition. I only intended to stay for a year before returning to the States but saw myself surrounded here by young entrepreneurs who had no money, no experience, but lots of passion and ideas. I figured if they could do it, then maybe so could I. Besides, looking around I realized Poland and Central Europe were pretty much the most exciting place on the planet at the time – it was living through unprecedented changes. It felt like it would reinvent itself every six-months. I asked myself, why leave that behind to jump back into the New York rat race back home? So, no regrets! No, none. I started out here

JOHN LYNCH

What’s your advice to foreign entrepreneurs arriving to Poland today? I hear people say all the time that I was lucky to be here in 1991 – that I arrived at the right time. But that was no guarantee of success, and for sure the failure rate was just as high then as it is now. Likewise, new opportunities still abide today, just maybe in different fields. As for advice, I’d probably simply echo the lessons I’ve learned along the way: choose the right partners. Be humble. Respect your employees, your suppliers and your clients. Also, don’t come here thinking you’ll do well because the labor pool is cheap – nowadays you need to find the best team, and Poland has heaps of talent. Lastly, don’t think of the Polish market alone. Think of this country as a platform to reach the rest of Europe and beyond.

Corruption of course was legendary back then? Right. Personally, I was always fiercely anti-corruption, and John that’sLynch one of the reasons I founded the American Chamber of Commerce down in Krakow. I realized that such an organization could help defend against certain corruption, and even at times open doors in a way that was completely legit. w tym 5% VAT

Any tips! Whatever picks you up when you’re in a crisis, whatever works for you – just do it! It’s a bit of an American cliché, but for me that meant watching a Rocky movie or popping on some Bon Jovi – Keep the Faith! It may sound absurd, but if something lifts you up then it’s worth doing. In general, life is about ups and downs, but if you learn how to handle and climb out of the downs then it becomes a whole lot easier.

of the sales staff sat around doing nothing. There wasn’t even a delivery service running between Krakow and Warsaw. If I wanted to deliver t-shirts to the capital, I’d send them up by train and my brother would be there at the other end to pick them up before getting on a bus to deliver them in person. I mean, in Britain or the US that’s the sort of thing that might happen in the 19th century!

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that my brain wasn’t working in that way anymore, I put the effort in to change that.

“…a spellbinding tale of ﬁnancial and international intrigue… you will root for Truman Chase and admire his faith …” Prof. Lori Rosenkopf, Ph.D. Vice Dean of Entrepreneurship, The Wharton School

“That [Lynch] attains such intimate understanding of the Polish legal system is an achievement in itself. (…) that he did so in such a thrilling & suspenseful way is a gift to Polish readers.” Prof. Zbigniew Ćwiąkalski, Ph. D. Former Minister of Justice of Poland

“…hard to put down. It is difficult to believe that this is a debut novel for the author.” New Eastern Europe magazine

“Action-packed thriller…delivers a one-two punch. Moreover, it does it with a hero that I can really relate to - a young and courageous entrepreneur.” Verne Harnish, Rockefeller Habits

THE ARK

Sacrificing a burgeoning career with Ralph Lauren, Bronx-raised Truman Chase transforms his family’s ailing clothing firm in Krakow into a booming success only to find his dreams shattered when a hostile takeover sees his hard work vanish. Set largely in Poland, what follows is a high-strung thriller as Chase fights to save everything he believes in from the unscrupulous fund that’s out to destroy him. Published by Ringier Axel Springer (Polish) and Oh Book! (English), both Polish and English versions available from EMPiK and www.literia.pl. The Ark marks the literary debut of John Lynch.

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DESTINATION:

ŻOLIB To tap into Warsaw’s northern soul, it’s to Żoliborz one must head – more than just a garden suburb, it’s a district rich in history, tales, legends and distractions…

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BORZ First Stop: Pl. Wilsona! The heart and soul of Żoliborz is marked by Pl. Wilsona, a busy roundabout originally laid out in the 1920s. Named in honor of President Woodrow Wilson, a geezer that championed the idea of Polish independence, the centerpiece is a metro station whose smooth lines and lava lamp colors lend a space age ambiance. Completed in 2005, in 2008 it was officially recognized at a Metrorail convention as the world’s best new underground station. Six-years later, CNN included it on their list of the world’s 17 most impressive stations, noting that it looked like it had been built by aliens. Though appearing a little cold and tired compared to the latest generation of stations, it’s nonetheless become the most recognizable of Warsaw’s metro stops. Let your Żoliborz adventure start here! warsawinsider.pl

Destination: Zoliborz

IN THE GREEN

Fosa Some know it best simply as the Citadel Park, and given that it acts as a natural buffer between the fort and the rest of Żoliborz it’s not a surprise that this moniker has stuck. Established in the place of a former moat, the military fortifications that poke out lend a deep and often melancholic sense of history – given the association with some of Warsaw’s darker times, it can almost feel spooky once the sun starts to set: in fact, it’s not unknown to

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hear local ghosthunters reporting spooky sightings. Even more luridly, some message boards have gone as far as to speculate that some of the abandoned tunnels are today used by practitioners of the black arts. Enough of that though, you’re advised to leave the Ouija at home and instead follow a trail of outdoor installations created by Jan Sajdak. First appearing in 2018, these include wicker animals, a home for ‘homeless hedgehogs’ and a giant human figure made from gnarled wooden branches.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Deriving its name from the French Joli Bords (beautiful embankment), Żoliborz would not be Żoliborz without outbreaks of greenery stitching together its surrounding urban fabric – and for the pick of the bunch, look no further!

Kępa Potocka A product of the 1960s, at Kępa Potocka the curving canal-side pathway serves as a magnet for roller bladers, cyclists and joggers, though others will know it for its signature pink neon, a dazzly, space age affair created by artist Maurycy Gomulicki. Though lacking the extravagances of Warsaw’s more ornate parks, it’s an integral part of local life – you get the idea of a park that’s been created with people in mind.

Park Żeromskiego Established in 1931, entrance to this picturesque park is marked by a statue of a water carrying female that debuted in 1937 only to mysteriously vanish during the war. Tracked down following the dogged attempts of actress and Żoliborz resident Alina Jankowska, the monument is often nicknamed Alina in recognition of her. Beautifully arranged with curling pathways, pristine lawns and glimmering lamps, its rolling expanses come interspersed with restored Tsarist leftovers such as

the glass-canopied Fort Sokolnickiego. Leaving, check out the changing poster exhibitions that clasp the rails close to the Pl. Wilsona entrance.

Pl. Inwalidów Though not officially listed anywhere as a park (at least not to our knowledge), the long strip of grassland that runs through the center of al. Wojska Polskiego (Polish Army Avenue) lives up to its name by presenting a slew of mili-

tary monuments. Of the more memorable are Monument to the Polish American Armed Deed, a spectacular work featuring a saber-wielding cavalryman. Commemorating the 20,000 Polish-American volunteers that joined General Haller’s “Blue Army” to fight in WWI, the troops later served in the Polish-Ukrainian war. In a fine nod to craftsmanship, even the horse’s bulging veins are shaped like the rivers of Poland. Also notable, check out the memorial to Witold Pilecki.

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Destination: Zoliborz

FROM THE STREETS

WI: When did your love affair with Żoliborz begin? KS: I’ve lived here all my life – and so did my father and grandfather before me. I’m very lucky to have been born in such a unique neighborhood as this, and I vividly remember going to nursery school on Stołeczna (now Popiełuszko). My family have always glorified their little ‘homeland’ of Żoliborz, and now as a councilor on behalf of Miasto Jest Nasze I’m really happy that I can have a tangible impact on this community. saw, it’s perfectly self-contained with everything you could wish What is the MAGIC of Żolifor to enjoy everyday life. borz? It’s a city within a city – as You mentioned that sense of Kazimierz Brandys once wrote, community before… “we do not live in Warsaw, but in Yes, and it does have that neighŻoliborz”. Personally, I see this as borly atmosphere where you’ll a happy place created by joyful find people talking over their people with open minds. Though balconies or just saying good this is the smallest district in War- morning to each other. It feels

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KONRAD SMOCZNY

Known for his quirky and engaging images of Żoliborz, we meet Konrad Smoczny of Żoliborz Moje Miasto to learn what the district means to him…

like everyone always has time for a quick chat. More importantly though, I get the idea that people are really sensitive to the area and care about it. Your pictures capture that brilliantly – what are you hoping to show in them? I think I’m just trying to intertwine my own views of Żoliborz with a little bit of my private life. I’m hoping that thanks to that, people discover little parts to the area that they otherwise might miss. Your FB page has 18,000 fans – does that surprise you? It’s really cool! It’s great that people are so interested in their surroundings. Furthermore, I know a few people that moved abroad and I really like that my posts trigger fond memories for them.

Where would you take a stranger that’s never been up here before? Funnily enough I had friends over from Berlin yesterday and was wondering what to show them. I ended up taking them to the Sady milk bar for some typical food inside what I think is something of a 1960s time capsule. It was designed by an

outstanding architect, Maria Skibniewska, and I can only hope that the place will survive forever in its current form – the atmosphere is just unique. On top of that, I think the allotments on Promyka are an absolute oasis of silence and greenery and offer an amazing refuge from city life. Do you have any favorite places to photograph? Not really – I love just hanging around with my dog, Bajka, and exploring different parts of the area on a daily basis. That said, the citadel on a misty morning is beautiful, whilst in autumn the so-called ‘officers district’ is a gorgeous mix of gold and red colors. In the evenings, Winnice Mołdawii wine bar is also supremely atmospheric with its little lamps and people talking in whispered conversation. You must have a favorite Żoliborz story… I really love the story about how David Bowie supposedly spent a few hours in the capital. According to eyewitnesses, he went on a walk around Żoliborz, or more specifically what we now know as Plac Wilsona. There he reputedly browsed inside a vinyl store and came away with an album by the band Śląsk. Allegedly, this was the inspiration for his song Warszawa (1977) – later, having heard Bowie’s track, Joy Division started life calling themselves Warsaw. Whether or not this is true I don’t know, but it’s a fantastic little story. For more from Konrad, and Żoliborz Moje Miasto, see: fb.com/ ZoliborzMojeMiasto and instagram. com/zoliborzmojemiasto

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Destination: Zoliborz

BACK TO THE FUTURE!

aving regained their overdue independence in 1918 (yay!), the Poles decided it was time to do something with their capital. With the population of the city center reaching critical mass, the decision was taken to expand the city in the north – wouldn’t you know it, Żoliborz was the answer – subject to heavy investment, the northern wedge bloomed into something truly special.

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Bruksalski Villa Amid the blanket solutions proffered by the architects of the times, individualism also flourished and that’s possibly best demonstrated by the Bruksalski Villa at ul. Niegelowskiego 8. Designed by architects Barbara and Stanisław Brukalski to serve as their own home, it took clear inspiration from Gerrit Thomas Rietveld’s Schröder villa in Utrecht. While many Poles

were still celebrating the classic manor house styles of the past, it was positively ground-breaking. Looking like a game of Tetris from the outside, within it was defined by a central spiral staircase and large windows. Neighbors were startled by what had landed next door, but it wasn’t long until the villa earned the appreciation it deserved – in 1937, it scored a gold medal at the International Exhibition in Paris.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

The year is 1928, and for the citizens of Warsaw something truly futuristic was brewing in Żoliborz – we take a look back to the buildings and estates that blew the city’s mind with their vision for the future…

Żoliborz Oficerski

Osiedle Dziennikarskie

When Żoliborz was absorbed into Warsaw in 1916 the move was a prelude to the boom that would come. Home to the city’s keystone military stronghold, the citadel, it was deemed logical to develop the area as a residential quarter for the army’s leadership. The first streets were built in 1922, with prominent architects such as Romuald Gutt and Rudolf Świerczyński drafted in. Ebenezer Howard’s English garden cities provided them with a base plan and an emphasis was placed on filling the district with well-organized greenery. The houses, meanwhile, were attractive abodes, defined by their steep, red-tiled roofs and column-flanked porches. In these lived the military hierarchy, among them figures such as Stefan Rowecki (later murdered on the orders of Himmler) and Własyslaw Anders (who would later famously break the deadlock at the Battle of Monte Cassino). But despite its underlying uniformity, Żoliborz Oficerski also included several distinctive aesthetic touches like, for instance, the Gothic castle-style villas found on ul. Smiała and the perfectly radial Pl. Słoneczny – originally, 12 houses had been planned for it, with a poplar in the middle acting as a sundial.

Beginning construction in 1928, Osiedle Dziennikarskie would later come to flag the area as something special. Following the gentle curve of ul. Tucholska 2 to 16, a row of flat-roofed terraced houses were built to the design of Kazimierz Tołłoczko. An eminent architect whose roll of credits would include Ochota’s Pl. Narutowicza, Tołłoczko’s project included back gardens

and floral window boxes decorating the facades. This, and the surrounding streets, had been commissioned by the Housing Cooperative of Warsaw Journalists and they quickly assumed an artistic vibe thanks to residents that numbered the esteemed reporter Melchior Wańkowicz – working as a war correspondent during WWII, his most famous work saw him pen a three volume tome about the Battle of Monte Cassino.

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Destination: Zoliborz W.

Pl. Wilsona Realized in 2019 as part of the civic budget, the idea for this neon came from Konrad Smoczny (more on him on p. 12). Executed by Kwiaciarnia Grafiki, it’s since become an entrenched feature on the area’s anchoring ‘square’.

NORTHERN LIGHTS

Lights, camera, action! Track down the district’s best neons!

Kufle i Kapsle We list this for two reasons alone: we love neon and we love craft beer. You find both at Kufle i Kapsle, a booze-soaked den of much publicized greatness. Though the sign itself is from the new wave of neon, the location in a set of communist era pavilions joins the past with the present with effortless ease.

Tkanina

Mickiewicza 27 A true survivor, this sign hails to Poland’s neon heyday back in the times of the People’s Republic. Once signaling the presence of a textile store, it was saved only on the intervention of Robert Szuba. When the store closed, it looked odds on the neon would follow it to its graveyard. However, Szuba contacted the property’s new owner, and quickly reached an agreement with them to restore the sign back to its best. Today, it’s a wonderful throwback to the Poland’s 60s.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA, EXCEPT KUFLE I KAPSLE FACEBOOK

Popiełuszki 21

Krzysztof Komeda

Powązkowska / Pl. Czesław Niemena Żoliborz Artystyczny has done much to distinguish itself from Warsaw’s other recent housing projects, not least through its liberal sprinkling of arty decorations. They don’t come more powerful than this neon, a staggering work dedicated to the much-loved composer. Known for writing the scores for Rosemary’s Baby, Komeda died at just 37-years of age after injuries sustained when he was pushed from a hill in a drunken jape.

Bubbles

Cafe Bar Havana & Merkury

Designed by Maurycy Gomulicki, an eccentric artist with an air of the cosmic 70s about him, work on this 17-metre installation lasted two years with the results speaking for themselves. Featuring a series of pink bubbles clinging to a sheet of wire mesh, this renegade artwork was devised so as to celebrate “the joy of life and the beauty of the moment.”

Find yourself confronted with a bevvy of neon at this address, the first advertising what’s arguably become one of the area’s biggest cult hangouts: Havana. Then, crowning the eighth floor tower find two signs that fit with the spirit of this 1964 tower. Seeing you’re here, head inside to poke around a supermarket that feels authentically retro.

Kępa Potocka

Słowackiego 16/18

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Destination: Zoliborz Museum of Sport & Tourism

Wybrzeże Gdyńskie 4, muzeumsportu.waw.pl

THREE OF THE BEST

You wouldn’t call the area spoiled in terms of museums, but those that exist will surprise those that visit…

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA, EXCEPT KATYŃ WIKICOMMONS

Though first founded in 1952, today this museum is found inside a stunning modern building whose design references the Olympics: the elevator shaft, say the architects, was built to resemble the Olympic torch. Inside, the 47,000 exhibits include a kayak that once belonged to Pope John Paul II; football shirts worn by Jerzy Dudek and Kazimierz Deyna; vintage PRL era posters; and curious sporting gear saved from the ages. Outside, meanwhile, sculptures and statues include one dedicated to the 22 American boxers that died in a plane crash just outside Warsaw back in 1980, as well as a winged nude by Igor Mitoraj.

Katyń Museum

Jeziorańskiego 4, muzeumkatynskie.pl Recalling the events of 1940 when around 22,000 Polish officers and soldiers were executed by the NKVD, this somber museum has repeatedly swagged architectural awards since opening in this location in 2015 – breathtaking in its design, the red-tinted stairwell cut into the hillside outside has become one of the city’s iconic images. The content contained within the museum is equally impactful, and presents thousands of artefacts recovered from the killing fields: cast in a haunting glow, these include keepsakes such as playing cards, ID papers, belt buckles, tram tickets and toothbrushes.

The Tenth Pavilion

Warsaw Citadel, muzeum-niepodleglosci.pl/xpawilon Constructed on the behest of Tsar Nicholas I, the Warsaw citadel did more than just house the city’s Russian garrison. For decades numerous Polish activists were detained within its impregnable walls, and these included patriots of the caliber of Jarosław Dąbrowski, Romauld Traugutt and the future President Józef Piłsudski. Now it fills the function of a chilling museum that includes a collection of declarations, decrees, notices and keys, not to mention restored cells that send a shiver down the spine. When you’re done, walk ‘the execution route’ – a path down which condemned prisoners would be led down on their way to the gallows set up at ‘the execution gate’. When the crows craw at dusk, the place feels thoroughly unsettling.

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Destination: Zoliborz

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

HEART OF GLASS No visit to Żoliborz can ignore that area’s most famous building: The Glass House…

oliborz does not lack architectural treasures, but ask any local and there’s one that you’ll hear of time and time again. Known colloquially as the Szklany Dom (The Glass House), this modernist beast was designed by Juliusz Żórawski and constructed between 1937 and 1939. Inspired by the works of Le Corbusier, this was Warsaw’s way with agreeing with the Frenchman’s philosophy that apartments should be treated as “machines for living”. Featuring glass windows stretching it’s entire 100-meter length, it contained 112 apartments that were positively luxurious at the time: touting underground parking, crystal mirrors inside the elevators, and art deco grilles on the ground floor, the block was supported on pillars and topped with a dramatic rooftop terrace. Of course, you don’t get any prizes for guessing what historical event its completion year coincided with. The German occupation brought new, unexpected tribulations, and wartime saw its yard used by the resistance to hide and bury weapons. Once the 1944 Uprising kicked-off, the Glass House gained new prominence as the HQ of the district commander, Mieczysław Niedzielski. Later described at his Nazi show trial as a Polish ‘fanatic’, Niedzielski was determined not to capitulate and did so only after being ordered to do so by General ‘Bór’ Komorowskiego. Begrudgingly, Niedzielski entered German captivity (later, he would be freed after Count Bernadotte negotiated his release with Himmler) along with the wounded insurgents sheltering in the basements. Still, the Glass House’s story did not end there. Hastily patched-up after the war, in 1948 the communist authorities threw a party on the top floor for those dignitaries attending the World Congress, an intellectual convention designed to highlight the peaceful intentions of the Communist system. The guest of honor? None other than Pablo Picasso.

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Destination: Zoliborz

BEST OF THE REST For Urbex…

Budding urban explorers and sports fans can’t miss Marymont stadium, a small but historic arena that was completed in 1955 to house the local footy side MKS Marymont. Back in these early glory years capacity crowds of 10,000 would cram in to cheer on the likes of Kazimierz Gorski (who would later be immortalized as the mastermind behind Poland’s great national side of the 1970s); often also used for international youth matches, Zbigniew Boniek made his debut for Poland’s junior side here, while other players to grace the pitch included a young Zinedine Zidane. Falling into general ruin and dishevelment, the stadium’s future was only recently safeguarded after a prolonged campaign to rescue it from development.

It’s now common for residential development to boast about their social and cultural credentials, but for the most part that transpires to be little more than hot air and bluff. Then there’s Żoliborz Artystyczny. What could have easily become another middle class estate mired in anonymous mediocrity has instead become a poster child of how to do things right. Heaped with awards since ground was broken in 2013, the sprawling investment has a high headcount of quirky oddities: a sculpture of a tower of giant books; huge neons; and murals of artsy Polish legends. Following a minimalist, neo-modern form, the architecture has also been lauded for its urban layout and aesthetics. Emblematic of it all is an apartment block in the heart of Pl. Niemena – a mass of oddly-stacked oblong blocks, it’s a feast to behold.

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

For The Now…

For A Blast To The Past… Known as Sady Żoliborskie, the western front of Żoliborz acquired much of its current form in the 1960s when Halina Skibniewska designed a housing estate comprised of 24 low-rise blocks and an 11-story tower at its head. Interspersed with apple trees – a nod to the area’s previous role as an orchard – the development received the Mr. Warsaw prize for architecture and was deemed ground-breaking at the time. Featuring playgrounds and other such community-driven facilities, it became a flagship project and a popular backdrop for films and TV serials. Crowning it meanwhile was Bar Sady, the only free-standing milk bar in the city. Trading to this day, and marked out by its groovy primrose and navy colors, it’s something of a time capsule that no PRL enthusiast can afford to bypass. warsawinsider.pl

Destination: Zoliborz

For Non-Standard Architecture If you’re hunting for proof that the 1970s were a strange time then you need look no further than Kaniowska 21. Snuck amid the smart officer’s quarter find a pair of pointyroofed wooden chalets that wouldn’t be out of place in the Tatra Mountains. Designed by architect and Olympic fencer (and medalist) Wojciech Zabłocki, the pair of houses are one of the area’s great curiosities.

For A Complete Surprise… Filed in the box marked “I Never Expected That”, Żoliborz is the unlikely home of a viking settlement founded by retired businessman Stanisław Wdowczyk. Adopting the name Einar (“the most famous archer in the north,” he chuckles), Wdowczyk’s vision has seen the construction of a wooden fort a stone’s throw from the Olympic Center. Baffling and impressive in equal measure, it’s the frequent site of falconry competitions, hedonistic feasts, axe-throwing contests and staged battles between sword-wielding enthusiasts. Though closed most of the time, open days and company events are organized from timeto-time. For info, see: fb.com/jomsborgvikingshird

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

For Memory’s Sake…

ALL PHOTOGRAPHS THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA EXCEPT BOTTOM LEFT AND TOP RIGHT SHUTTERSTOCK (2)

For Sundays… In autumn, the Church of St. Stanisław Kostka (ul. Hozujsa 2) cuts an awesome sight with its twin towers dwarfing the trees that surround it. More than a church, it’s a homage to its most famous priest: murdered by security forces in 1984 for his role in the Solidarity protests, there’s no doubt left about the impact Father Jerzy Popiełuszko had on his flock. Lying in the corner of the grounds, his tomb is permanently adorned with wreaths, while on the inside a small museum tell his story. Along with other exhibits, items include numerous personal items such as his Braun shaver, a Sanyo cassette player and his winter socks. A contemplative experience, the tour concludes with a doorway inscribed with his favorite saying: “Overcome evil with good.”

Originally an Orthodox cemetery for Tsarist soldiers, Powązki Military Cemetery is now the resting place for a whole pantheon of Polish military heroes. The cemetery features a special area for those murdered by the security services in 1945-56, a memorial for the victims of the Katyń massacre of 1940 and a section devoted to the Smolensk plane crash tragedy of 2010. Kazimierz Górksi, the manager of Poland’s world-beating national football team in the 1970s, rests here in his family’s plot. Other notable tombs and graves include those of the globally acclaimed foreign correspondent Ryszard Kapuściński, resistance hero Jan ‘Rudi’ Bytnar, Poland’s first post-war Communist leader Bolesław Bierut, super spy and CIA agent Ryszard Kukliński and the installation artist Magdalena Abakanowicz. Most touching though are the unmarked graves of anonymous Uprising combatants recovered from the rubble of Warsaw.

For Something Visual… The grand and solid architecture of the Comedy Theater (Słowackiego 19A) allows you to bask in the atmosphere of early communist Poland with its octagonal footprint capped by an extravagant dome. Opened on May 1st, 1954, the edifice blurs the line between Classicism and Socialist Realism and never ceases to impress. While there, look in the park close by for a statue titled Maternity. Sculpted by Auschwitz survivor Alina Szapocznikow, the piece was completed in Paris in 1950, before being shipped to Poland. Renovated a decade ago by the Museum of Modern Art in Warsaw, it remains a sublime example of Socialist Realist sculpture. Posthumously, the artist has become one of the country’s most expensive exports with her works now commanding massive fees at auction.

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Destination: Zoliborz

ŻOLI-WALLS

The Man Who Fell To… Żoliborz As local heroes go, perhaps the most unexpected to be associated with Żoliborz is ‘the man who fell to earth’. Variously known as The Thin White Duke, Starman and Ziggy Stardust, David Bowie’s visit to Warsaw

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

is today immortalized by way of a stunning mural designed by Dawid Celek and realized in 2016. But just what is the story behind it? One version asserts that in the early 1970s Bowie had a terrible fear of flying after having a premonition of dying in a plane crash, so after finishing a tour

of Japan in 1973, he crossed the sea to the USSR and took the 10,000-kilometer Trans-Siberian railway to Moscow, where he bought a ticket for the Moscow-Paris express. On May 3rd, 1973, the train made a scheduled, technical stop at Warszawa Gdańska station. The 25-year old star seized

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Though more modest in number than other districts, the murals of Żoliborz are no less spectacular than those elsewhere…

the moment and set out on foot to explore the newly rebuilt socialist capital. Perhaps he took a wrong turn, or perhaps the music gods intervened, but instead of heading for the Old Town he went in the opposite direction and found himself in Paris Commune Square (now Pl. Wilsona). A second version says claims that a passport officer refused to let Bowie off the train in 1973, and it was only when he returned with Iggy Pop in 1976 that both of them had a chance to wander around for a few

hours. Either way, what we do know as fact is that he stopped into a record store and loaded up on Polish albums. Whatever impressions he had must have resonated with him, because in 1976 he recorded a melancholic epic titled Warszawa. When he died a few years back, his death stunned not just the music world but the residents of Żoliborz. Moved to remember him – and his fleeting foray into their district – a mural was erected and can be viewed to this day at Marii Kazimiery 1.

Klimat Dawnego Żoliborza Found on ul. Szajnochy, but actually depicting Słowackiego street, this sepia work recalls the spirit of the 60s. Hidden behind the ‘Mercury’ building, it was first painted as part of an advertising campaign by the Królewski brewery. Showing the street as it would have looked sixty-years back, the mural proved so popular that it remained long after the brewery removed their name from the work.

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Destination: Zoliborz

Plastuś

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

Lekarstwo Na Miłość Inspired by the 1966 film of the same name, and found on Koźmiana 6, this mural is one of a handful that survives from a 2012 artistic action titled ŻoliGaraż. Conducted just as Warsaw was finding its appetite for street art, the project challenged famous contemporary artist to paint garage doors so as to encourage residents to show more interest in their surroundings. This one was the work of Olga Wolniak, an artist known for painting on unorthodox materials such as x-ray plates and newspapers.

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Bowie is the best-loved, of that there can be no doubt, but Plastuś surely comes second. Painted onto Dolnośląska 3, this cheerful character first appeared in the children’s books of Maria Kownacka. Creating the plasteline man in the 1930s, she was motivated to do so after watching children playing a nearby kindergarten on ul. Suzina.

BIG SCREEN STARS: PAST, PRESENT, FUTURE Join us for a look at three cinemas enshrined in local legend…

Kino Elektronik Zajączka 7

Overused to the point of losing its meaning, rarely has the word ‘cult’ been applied with such precision. Opened in the 60s, it was closed at the turn of the millennium and sat mothballed for 15-years. But whilst other cinemas found themselves turned into supermarkets and suchlike, Elektronik found itself returned to its right and proper use. Retaining its signature neon, as well as its atmospheric leather-seated interiors, its commitment to alternative cinema was recognized in 2018 when it was awarded the title of the EU’s ‘cinema of the month’ by Film New Europe. Clad with cool murals on the outside, head here to immerse yourself in alternative film before dissecting what you’ve seen in the on-site Pushkin café. warsawinsider.pl

Destination: Zoliborz Kino Tęcza Suzina 6

Currently subject to a painstaking renovation, the legendary Kino Tęcza is on its way to being turned into an arts, cultural and film center named after Oscar-winning director Andrzej Wajda. Completed in 1929 to serve as a boiler house, the building has been described as “a pearl of inter-war modernism” and it was outside here that the first shots of the 1944 Warsaw Uprising were prematurely fired. Later extended after the war, the building was enlarged to host a cinema and theater as part of plans to turn develop the idea of “a community-oriented neighborhood”. Possibly its finest hour, however, came in the 1990s when it became a center of Warsaw’s avant garde – Allen Ginsberg read his poetry here just four-years before his death. Currently largely clad in scaffolding, visit now to view an old pair of neons outside as well as a surprising mural that’ll look great on Insta.

Kino Wisła

Opened in 1959, Kino Wisła has long been a cornerstone of Pl. Wilsona. Long haunted by bankruptcy fears, its current struggles are a far cry from old – back in the day, the cinema hosted the ‘Confrontations’ festival, which afforded locals a chance to watch Western films. Accordingly, there were times when the queues would stretch 200-meters and onto the pavement outside. Yet others recall the cinema’s auditoriums as being the scene of highly-charged political meetings in the run up to Poland’s first post-Communist elections. Since modernized (boo!), the repertoire is mainly standard contemporary fare.

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Pl. Wilsona 2

Fawory

Havana

ESSENTIAL CHECK-INS We haven’t even touched the sides when it comes to covering the district’s food, drink and shopping options, but for sure these are the ones you simply can’t miss…

DRINK Fawory

ul. Mickiewicza 21

An intimate neighborhood cafe that comes complete with mugs that announce: “Fresh Coffee Tastes Betters”. You bet it does. The smoothies and regional beers are just as good though and come served inside a lively, gossipy interior that captures the essence of Warsaw café culture.

Kufle i Kapsle

Pracovnia Art Klub

Jerzego Popiełuszki 16

You could argue this was the district’s creative heart, and you wouldn’t be far wrong. Inside a reddish, rickety interior gather for alternative music sounds and concerts that cover a smorgasbord of genres.

Prochovnia

Żeromskiego Park

Havana

Słowackiego 16/18

A local hero if ever there was, Havana opens early and closes late – so much so, you don’t know if to class this as a café, bar or restaurant. It fills all roles well with its retro air feeling especially cool in the evenings. It’s an absolute cult!

Kufle i Kapsle

ul. Popiełuszki 21

Find a great representation of Polish craft on draught, not to mention a satisfying selection of international bottles. The moderate size works it in its favor, lending it a neighborly atmosphere which sees firsttimers quickly converted into returning regulars.

Set inside a redbrick former gunpowder store this gorgeous spot excels in summer when crowds gather to drink on deckchairs. But it’s a mainstay all-year round for good reason. Inside, huddle in to enjoy crisp white interior that are a beautiful assembly of vaulted ceilings, lavish cushions and arcing windows. Food and drink is from the artisanal school of thought and slots with the hip, alternative vibe.

Secret Life

Słowackiego 15/19

A local legend if ever there was, at Secret Life you visit for an eclectic design that’s eccentric with hints of Scandinavia as well as for specialty coffee, regional beers, organic teas and a locally sourced menu of eco-minded bites.

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Destination: Zoliborz Zoli Pizza

out-of-season it’s equally worth crossing the road for on account of its exhaustive selection of beers, pulled meats, oozy burgers and pastrami.

Zoli Pizza

ul. Mickiewicza 9

Jaskółka

Fanatically Italian in their approach and ingredients, Zoli Pizza is part of the new wave of pizzerias that have revolutionized Warsaw. Eating here, you understand why its become such a local fave. Decorated with warm woods and dangling pizza paddles its enticing visually as well.

SHOP

Dom Roślin

Dom Roślin ul. Czarnieckiego 63A

Set in a 1920s villa on a leafy side street, you’ll be visiting for a family-run business specializing in the import of Moldovan, Georgian and Romanian wines. Discovered inside a converted garage attached to the house, drink while wallowing in the suburban serenity and authentic hospitality.

EAT Jaskółka

Pl. Wilsona 4

Apparently starting life as a cake café, Jaskółka’s story has been one of organic growth (literally). Now best known for their vegan menu, it’s become a standard bearer for eco-minded meals that give a platform for fresh, local produce to shine.

Cała w Mące

ul. Krasińskiego 18

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

As a baker, Monika Walecka has a reputation that’s second to none. Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, find white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn.

Ósma Kolonia

ul. Słowackiego 15/19

A place of distressed concrete and dangling bare bulbs, design isn’t so much minimal as it is non-existent, but that fits in with the underlying spirit of natural cool. Sourcing veg from grocer extraordinaire Pan Żiołko, find the quality ingredients magicked up into plant-based dishes like eggplant meatballs.

Wild Beef

Bulwar Zbigniewa Religi 3 This riverside spot enjoys its heyday in the summer, but

ul. Krasińskiego 18

For exotic potted plants and mystifying succulents look no further than Dom Roślin, a hyper cool store selling elaborate house plants the like of which you won’t find elsewhere in Warsaw – among them, several with natural purifying powers capable of relieving asthma and allergies.

Najlepsza Księgarnia ul. Cieszkowskiego 1/3

A hip and gorgeous-looking bookstore whose offer, while fundamentally Polish, doesn’t lack in universally appreciated albums and coffee table tomes.

DOM Sklep Po schodkach

Czarnieckiego 55

You probably remember DOM as the area’s best restaurant. Conflicts with not so neighborly neighbors meant closure, but they’ve since started life anew as a grocery-deli-café dealing only in the best local products and produce.

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Winnice Mołdawii

Eat!

First Bite

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Miss Banh Mi ul. Lwowska 9

STREETS AHEAD

A Vietnamese classic gets the authentic treatment from Miss Banh Mi…

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Review FOODIE NEWS FOR THE RECORD

BACK OF THE NET!

Long-awaited by his legion of fans, last month finally saw the opening of Robert Lewandowski’s restaurant and sports bar. Named Nine’s in honor of the footballer’s shirt number, the behemoth project includes an events space decorated with stadium seating, and no shortage of memorabilia donated by Poland’s biggest stars.

TALK OF THE TOWN

What times we live in! Still reveling in the launch of Browary Warszawskie, the capital had more reason to celebrate in late October when the ribbon was cut on Fabryka Norblin. Adding to the capital’s wealth of food halls and hubs, it’s already showing rich promise with a food hall dominated by exotic ethnic tastes: Indian, Thai, Uzbek, Tex-Mex, Israeli, Vietnamese, you name it. We’re heading there any moment soon to bring you the lowdown, but in the meantime see for yourself at: fabrykanorblina.pl

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FOODIE NEWS PHOTOGRAPHS FROM TOP, SHUTTERSTOCK, FACEBOOK (2)

lready established as legends of the street food emporium that is Nocny Market, news that Miss Banh Mi have set up shop on Lwowska has been greeted with justifiable fanfare. Founded by Nina, she’s learned well from her parents (who carved their own culinary reputation at Ochota’s Targ Bakalarska), and transferred the family’s secret recipes into something tangible and delicious. A former model by profession, her traditional tofu and homemade bread (baked fresh each day!) combine in the form of memorable banh mi – glowing warmly from the outside, step inside this small, steamy unit to pick from five choices, among them meatballs with fermented egg yolk. Salty and tender, they taste even better when paired with a local craft beer or a Vietnamese coffee. Boasting a distinct aftertaste, the ‘coffee with egg’ is Nina’s secret hack for the perfect Miss Banh Mi experience.

Smashing the previous record of 101.8 centimeters, a Warsaw restaurant claimed the Guinness World Record after building the planet’s highest stack of pancakes. Reaching a delicious 102.4 cm, staff at Mr. Pancake set the new record after balancing 166 pancakes atop of each other. Taking over two-hours to construct, the attempt saw chefs overcome problems posed by an unexpectedly wobbly table before emerging triumphant.

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Review

THE TRUE TASTE OF HOME Move over babcia, Patelnia Patera rethinks Polish classics with devastating effect…

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Review

STOCK When co-owner Kuba’s parents learned he’d be opening a restaurant their opening gift were seventy hens to supply the eggs. “We go through

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about 2,000 eggs a month,” says Kuba, “so it really helps we know exactly where our food is coming from.” Working only with the most honest ingredients they can find, other sources include cheese from the Otwock legend Pani Agnieszka and sękacz from Podlasie. TASTES The big winner on the plate? Schabowy – this flattened portion of pork is monstrous in size and marinated overnight in buttermilk ensuring that the meat stays moist and tender when fried. Coated in challah breadcrumbs mixed with dried

podgrzybki (bay bolete), the flavors are electrifying. In fact, we’d go as far as to call it a world-beater – just don’t tell babcia! WASTE None of that here – one of the guiding principles at work is a full-on dedication to the less-waste ethos. As such, find the homemade challah bread used for their ribs and oscypek sandwich incorporated also as breadcrumbs for schabowy. Patelnia Patera ul. Wilcza 29A, fb.com/PatelniaPatera

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LOOK Warm, welcoming woodsy finishes offset against soothing pops of sunset shades make it a place in which you want to settle in and take it slow. Checkered black-and-white floor tiles add a hint of classic bistro styling, whilst the empty pans adorning the walls stare out like blank canvases as if serving to inspire Mariusz the chef to new flights of fancy.

Review

THE FEAST IN THE EAST

Something special is afoot in Warsaw’s concrete eastern wilds… COORDINATES We’re well-used to dismissing far-flung restaurants as being in no-man’s land, but in this case The Eatery is so far off-center it practically falls off the radar. Is that a bad thing? Nah, of course it isn’t. We all know that the center tanked during The Great Bat Flu, and the opening of The Eatery is another affirmation of how Warsaw’s food map has expanded outwards as a consequence of that. So where is it exactly? To be honest, we’ve really no idea – somewhere in the grey zone that could pass as Grochów, Gocław or the enigma that is Gocławek. Set on a ground unit of a residential new build, you’re under a five-minute walk from Atrium Promenada.

VISUALS Though capable of holding not that many more than twenty-five diners, space is not an issue: floor-to-ceiling windows and a mirrored wall grant an illusory sense of room, whilst the neutral color palette generates a chameleon effect – in sunshine, The Eatery feels bright and vibrant, and in darkness, intimate and atmospheric. To this, add a dose of terrazzo surfaces, orblike lights and a smattering of plants and you have yourself a restaurant that feels comfortable to dwell in whatever the hour. Oh, and the playlist is the very definition of after-work chill – find your mood automatically enhanced by all these good vibes.

PEOPLE I’m unsure if they want the self-publicity, so I shan’t reveal the owners, but needless to say this young couple have a strong history in hospitality and design – this shows, and emphatically so. Then, wearing the hat in the kitchen, you’ve got Bartłomiej Trojanowski, a huge talent whose background includes A-list choices such as Kieliszki na Próżnej. FURTHER READING Presented on a sexy little clipboard, the menu does tout some international choices; for the most part, though, you’re looking at modern Polish: this isn’t fine dining, but it is classic recipes reimagined with modern flair. Drinks-wise, there’s

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The Eatery ul. Ostrobramska 73E, eatery.pl

“

Think of The Eatery as the most unexpected pleasure you’ll discover all year...

good wines and some craft beers from the unimpeachable Stu Mostow brewery. Cocktails don’t appear on the menu, but don’t let that stop you from ordering – they’ll fix you up with whatever suits your mood. FOODIE TALK If the portioning looks measly in the photos, then allow us to explain: small as the menu is, you want to eat it all. With this intention declared, we negotiated pared-down helpings served in miniaturized form. Kicking-off, that meant panko-crusted potato with creamy cottage cheese and pinches of charlock – a joy of crunch and texture. Next, a pitch-perfect tartare with sprigs of coriander and all those little extras that make this a classic.

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But great as these were, the hero of the moment transpired to be a sourdough mushroom soup of such oomph and flavor as to leave us in awe. ONTO MAINS Tumbled onto a sweet, soft brioche and thick-cut chips, and served with a dab of homemade BBQ sauce, the pulled beef is a bestseller for good reason. But it’s the Polish food for which you should visit. Ruskie pierogi are turned into a delicate artform, and so too the hearty, humble pyzy – best defined as a squashy dumpling, find this lamb-filled pouch of goodness sitting like a prince on a rich cheesy sauce. And what sauces! Wrapped in cabbage, the pork gołąbki

steal the show with a demi-glace of such depth and taste that your soul glows anew. Finishing, you want to invade the kitchen to hoist the chef on your shoulders and carry him forth on a mini lap of honor. This is more than just good work – it’s absolutely bloody brilliant. WHAT HAPPENED NEXT? Dessert, of course. Just two on our visit, but enough to divide our jury as to which was the best: flaky, crispy angel wings served with a cool pistachio cream? Or a fragrant apple cake with hints of cider and cinnamon? Try picking a winner from these and you’ll find yourselves trapped in a blissful deadlock. NUMBERS On the food front, there’s not one single dish that swings north of 50. Yes, you expect the suburbs to be cheaper than the center, but at a time when every restaurant we know is all but adding zeroes to their price tags, the moderate cost of The Eatery has you rubbing your eyes. Surely there’s been some kind of mistake? No, there really hasn’t. Excluding drinks, a three-course meal shouldn’t climb into triple digits. THE FINAL WORD Quite simply, think of The Eatery as the most unexpected pleasure you’ll discover all year. Food? Brilliant. Mood? Likewise. And prices? Yes, please. True, there are some that will need to take a leap of faith to travel this far for food, but at The Eatery you’ll find that aforementioned leap richly rewarded. We do not say this lightly: it’s fabulous.

Eat! listings author’s cuisine ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul.

space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

KLONN

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet

Mokotowska 48

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

DYLETANCI

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive

Miodowa 1, tel.888 575 457 | Hours: Wed-Sun: 12:00-21:00 fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa www.trattoriarucola.pl

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Eat! listings while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul.

Oleandrów 8

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

ROZBRAT 20

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite writeups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20

bakeries AROMAT

“Good bread needs good flour,” says Mathieu, one half of the mother / son duo that founded Aromat back in 2014. Sourcing theirs from a small French mill, the attention to detail has not been lost even as Aromat have blossomed to cover numerous addresses around Warsaw. And aside from bread, also anticipate a choice of coffee and pastries – the lemon eclairs deserve their own fan club. Various locations

CAŁA W MĄCE

“My bread is a reflection of my experiences,” says Monika Walecka, “every loaf tells its own story and includes elements from others that have either inspired or taught me – each one is like having baby with your baker friends!” Milling the flour herself then baking the bread with whole grain flour so that the most nutritious parts don’t get sifted, the results are white, fluffy breads as well as loaves that use ancient grains such as spelt, emmer or einkorn. ul. Krasińskiego 18

CHARLOTTE

There’s just no way you won’t already be acquainted with Charlotte. A game-changer when they launched, their Parisian-inspired concept has since been widely

mimicked across not just the city but also Poland as a whole. Eschewing artificial nasties, the bread – baked on-site at each location – is consistently reliable in its overall quality. Various locations

RANO

Set on upcoming Stalowa street, the number of top restaurants that are using this place to source their bread is indicative of their unquestioned quality. Looking – and smelling – exactly as you’d imagine an artisanal bakery to do so, find their offer given an extra boost by indulgences such as brioches and scones. ul. Stalowa 47

chinese PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. On the Italian front, leopard-spotted pizzas land are presented with wheel-blad-

Eat! listings ed knives in a kooky, retro interior featuring a dangling chandelier and the tallest mirror in Poland (possibly). ul. Koszykowa 1

comfort food BURGER BAR

Warsaw has come full-circle: years after burgers briefly starred as the national food, it’s the original burger joint that still bosses the field. ul. Puławska 974/80 (enter from Olkuska) & ul. Krucza 41/43

KUR & WINO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Formerly demonized for its brutally dehumanizing architecture and Orwellian atmosphere, Andersa street has evolved to become something of micro scene rich in hip haunts: in this renaissance, Kur & Wino have more than played their part. Cooked rotisserie-style, the big points go to chicken from Podlasie and guineafowl from Wielkopolska served with a medley of creative sauces. The cool, funky backdrop adds to the buzz, as does a terrace crowded with crates and palms. ul.

before being given extra oomph with locally grown greens, homemade kimchi or house pickles. A savage, primal pleasure of dripping sauce and juicy meat, the homespun quality of Pogromcy Meatów catapults it above the competition. ul. Koszykowa 1

desserts AM’OR EKLERY I WINO

You want to covet the eclairs from each possible angle, recording the results on your phone before sending the pics out to all of your contacts. Featuring embellishments such as a swirly rainbow-colored unicorn mane, these are elegant creations filled with cream that’s so light you suspect it might float away. Looking dashing in its shades of pastel pink and gold trim, the place looks the part as well. ul.

Kurcza 23/31

BOZZO

As Poland’s first store specializing solely in ice cream and eclairs Bozzo

have gained a devoted following in next to no time. Opened after ten-months of product testing, the results have reaped dividends with the French-style eclairs earning rave reviews. The work of pastry chef Adrian Edward Monik, the raspberry éclair is our hands-down winner.

Chmielna 27/31 & Dzielna 64

KUKUŁKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This is arguably Warsaw’s most adored dessert stop, and though cream puffs are the specialty, they know a thing or two about eclairs as well. Using seasonal ingredients, recent winners have included a barnstorming blueberry concoction. ul. Mokotowska 52

MISS MELLOW

Mixing sophisticated desserts with those that fall more on the filthy food porn side of thigs, Miss Mellow have hit the bull’s eye by offering something for everyone that enjoys the sweeter things in life. Lauded even by Vogue, find a wicked rundown of toasts, brioches, financiers, brownies, cookies and

Andersa 21

PALOMA NAD WISŁĄ

Attached to the modern art museum, people flood here to enjoy an atmospheric wooden-decked terrace, an exciting choice of spritzers and food that captures the zeitgeist: artisanal cheeseboards; stuffed rotis; fish tacos; vegan ice cream and so much more. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 47

POGROMCY MEATÓW

Dude food doesn’t get much better. Specializing in slow-cooked meats, find artisan buns stuffed with ribs, beef tongue, pastrami and the like

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Eat! listings cakes. Eschewing chemical nasties, it’s a place in which the owners’ commitment towards quality resonates throughout. ul. Wilcza 62

MOD DONUTS

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Shoebox in its size, it’s here you’ll find a steady queue lining up for their award-winning NYCstyle donuts – featuring toppings like hibiscus; mango; salted caramel; matcha; and lemon and poppy, they’re a fab deviation from the standard Polish pączek. ul. Paryska 27

SŁODKI BEZ

Cake: good. Sugar: bad. We all know that. But what you might not know of is the existence of Słodki Bez, a small little store specializing in sugar-free desserts. And it’s not just sugar they’ve dispensed of altogether, but also white flour, gluten, lactose and all the other synthetic nasties that we’re meant to dislike. Using natural substitutes, find a rich array of cakes and sweets such as vegan banoffee pie, chocolate nut cake, chickpea brownies, macarons, tarts and pralines. ul. Hoża 54, slodkibez.pl

fine dining BELVEDERE ŁAZIENKI KRÓLEWSKIE

Set in an imperial age glass orangery, it’s festooned with intricate latticework and botanical exotica. The updated interiors are the work of acclaimed set designer Boris Kudlicka, and lend a fresh, contemporary tone that goes hand in hand with the menu, but it’s the surrounding royal gardens – complete with posing peacocks – that most will be dining on this summer. ul. Agrykoli 1

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

EPOKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso has used the lockdown to simplify his menu, a work which gives regional suppliers an all-star role. But ‘simple’ is a relative term. The Europejski Grill has not lost its sophistication, as proved by a summer visit that saw us bowled over by a as a hazelnut soup with fig leaves and wild rocket and an artichoke confit served with a lightly grilled shallot cured for six weeks. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

NOBU

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper, Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the

menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

NOLITA

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. Cooking with poise and focus, his menu is a marriage of the classic and creative, with core ingredients given unexpected lifts with cunning turns and inspired little twists. ul. Wilcza 46

SIGNATURE

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former inter-war Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul. Poznańska 15

SZÓSTKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such

Eat! listings dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting, as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

french L’ARC

Looking elegant with its black/ white floors and subtle decorations bills at L’Arc can become big number affairs – especially if you hanker for seafood. Pick from numerous types of oysters or delve into the fish tank for the lobster of your choosing. The catchment area extends beyond the borders of Mokotów, not just because of their ‘fresh from France’ seafood, but because of classic dishes such as Mulard duck and Burgundy snails. ul. Puławska 16

georgian RUSIKO

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al. Ujazdowskie 22

greek & turkish MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. By the time the evening closes, you feel like one of the family – and that, surely, is the essence of hospitality. ul.

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

Londyńska 16

MYKONOS

You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul.

Grzybowska 62

SANTORINI

Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul.

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

Egipska 7

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Eat! listings indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

BOMBAJ MASALA PRAGA

Looks-wise it’s a feast for the eyes with 1,760 copper pipes hanging from the ceiling to generate a warming glow that mixes naturally with the brick finishes and spirited works of art. Differing from their mothership on JPII, the menu here involves street food-style tapas such as flat-fried Kachori dumplings and crispy cauliflower pakoras to outstanding tandoori dishes like marinated zander with garlic chili sauce. ul. Ząbkowska 29 (Centrum Praskie Koneser)

CURRY HOUSE

Ask for something extra hot in Curry House and by Suresh that’s what you’ll get. Yet at Curry House there is more to sing about than just Poland’s highest voltage vindaloo. The curries are rich and sumptuous and consistently cited as among the best in the city. If in doubt, the chicken tikka masala is a fail-safe request. ul. Żeromskiego 81 & ul. Hoża 54

GURU

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry! ul. Widok 8

INDIA GATE

Deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a rich mango sauce. Specializing in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and dosa stuffed with cheese. Al.

Jerozolimskie 87, indiagate.pl

italian ALTRO LOCALE

Presented by chef / owner Andrea Carillo, authentic, homespun tastes vie for your attention inside a charming space that’s chic and modern but never spartan. Passionate in its approach to modern Italian cuisine, Locale never misses a step. ul.

Willowa 9

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants. Fort Służew 1B

FOCACCIA

The big surprise at Focaccia is that

there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul.

Senatorska 13/15, focaccia.pl

LE BRACI

You enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning into a long, narrow room decorated in soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar. You’ll love the interior, but the food even more. For us, in September, that meant small starter plates that introduced nibbly bits of Italy followed by a creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts and a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots. ul. Górnośląska 24

POSYPANE

A casual restaurant with handmade pasta made fresh on the day and a choice that includes ravioli with chorizo and shrimp, bucatini Bolognese with seasoned beef and rosemary, and a creamy mushroom pappardelle. Then, adding to the sense of being somewhere young, fun and a little bit hip, is an edgy design featuring a wall of kitchen implements, hanging ropes and exposed concrete. ul. Hoża 43/49

japanese ARIGATOR

This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark,

Eat! listings weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness. A complex tangle of interlacing flavors, it’s the sort of dish you’d happily queue up for: and yes, people do. ul.

Piękna 54

SATO GOTUJE

Signposted by its own splash of Manga-style art adorning the exterior wall, this Commie era pavilion feels small and squashed and assembled on a budget. Who cares? No-one. An exciting departure from the norm – no sushi here – the menu is a selection of bitey Japanese street food such as grilled mackerel fillet with shavings of grated radish. Prices and quality ensure you don’t stop until you’ve gobbled your way through much of the menu. ul.

Pawińskiego 24

SHOKU

At Shoku, the mix and match approach when it comes to Asia (if it’s tasty, stick it on the menu!) feels rational and put together. Never short of custom, locals gather inside a bright, contemporary space (or vast back garden) to slurp down bowls of ramen, share shoku bowls or click chopsticks over small plates of dim sum and wonton. ul. Karolkowa 30

UKI UKI

How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of

such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul. Krucza 23/31

WABU

Sushi becomes a heaven’s gate spiritual experience in Wabu with the evening passing in a blur of beautiful compositions, of silky slithers of fish crowned with expert pinches of this, and little brush strokes of that. That’s all elevated even further by deliciously upscale interiors befitting of the Spire location. Pl. Europejski 2 (Warsaw Spire)

YATTA

Originally born from a food truck, Yatta’s stationary address is everything you want: scruffy, frayed and busy, and the living embodiment of the street food vibe. The ideal outlet for their concept, step inside a rackety interior to join other hip creatures Instagramming the only jiro ramen to be found in Warsaw. Once you’re done doing that, kick back to slurp over big, steamy bowl of spicy miso ramen. Bartoszewicza 3

korean HESU WARSAW

Looking at the design components isn’t unlike viewing a Pinterest board featuring all the other new-wave joints around town, and that familiarity extends to a millennial color palette high on clashing shades of pastel. Staff, almost predictably come with mustaches, tatts and Hawaiian shirts, and these trend-conscious foot soldiers bring forth one of the city’s best kimchi salads. Blue rice and loaded cocktails add to the fun, young slant. ul. Oboźna 9

THE COOL CAT

Refusing to take themselves too

seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

K-BAR

Co-owner Czesio has injected his life, soul (or is that Seoul?) and personal artistic journey into K-Bar, not least via his DJing background – no matter when you may visit, there’s something of a party feeling. Like being buzzed into an artist’s loft apartment, its packed with neon, flea market finds and Korean groceries. The KFC (Korean Fried Chicken) will satisfy desires for something sweet, spicy and fried. For a healthier option, K-Bar’s Vegan Bibimbab are nothing short of bliss. ul. Piękna 28/34

KOREANKA

A courtyard cubbyhole that’s scuffed, informal and fashionably ramshackle. Such has been the stir created by it, diners arrive in the knowledge that they’ll be scavenging a table and eating what little might be left over from another sell-out day. Yet here’s the point of contention: is it really all that’s cracked up? The kimchi is exemplary, but not everything works so well. ul. Koszykowa 59

SORA

Korean food is big news in Warsaw, though increasingly it’s the Americanized K-food style you’ll find. Sora returns to the roots with tabletop BBQs, lively spices and lashings of Makkoli wine. The number of Korean guests is an endorsement in itself. ul. Wronia 45

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings f & b super hubs

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Vying for the title of the year’s most exciting opening, find Browary in a revamped 19th century brewery once operated by Haberbusch and Schiele. Along with the sensitive retention and refit of original properties and elements such as the Villa Schiele, the Browary area has blossomed anew with features such as the vaulted brick cellars turned over to house a food hall. Awash with food and drink options that include, among others, a sports bar and restaurant owned by Robert Lewandowski, as well as a three-floor flagship brewpub, it’s a place that’s as ambitious as it is

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

HALA GWARDII

aspirational. Of its numerous food and entertainment attractions, props also go to a cabaret-style ‘show restaurant’ and the marvelous Japonka restaurant and store. ul. Grzybowska 60,

browarywarszawskie.com.pl

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Set in the revitalized space of a 19th century vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer.

An island of prosperity in the otherwise largely gritty Praga suburb, props go to the Koneser Grill and Bombaj Masala. With the pandemic still lurking in the background, Koneser’s wide open plaza acts in its favor. Pl. Konesera

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

A magnificent reinvention of a historic power plant that once kept the city fed with electricity today, it’s feeding Warsaw something a helluva’ lot more tastier. Comfortingly stringent in their hygiene practices, you swing in for a food court that’s dazzling in both its offer and visual impact: neon is king! Cocktail bars, a craft beer point and an exhaustive

PHOTO LEFT BY ALEX WEBBER, RIGHT PRESS MATERIAL

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

Eat! listings

the food booths on the other side of this historic hall. Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1

HALA KOSZYKI

Introducing the absolutely bleeding obvious, Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays. Still highly influential, it remains one of the places in which to be seen. ul. Koszykowa 63

FABRYKA NORBLIN selection of street food units (e.g. Philly cheese steak!) give cause to visit, but beyond these quite copious attractions, it is the retention of its historic character contrasted against the newly inserted elements that makes it such a visually enticing, standout hub. ul. Dobra 42

HALA GWARDII

Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market outside, find a natural gravity effect that works to benefit both Gwardii and Hala Mirowska. Operating only weekends, Gwardii has become a well-loved addition to Warsaw’s gastro scene, with its farmers’ market working well with

Hot on the heels of Browary Warszawski comes Fabryka Norblin, an equally ambitious investment on the frontline of Wola. Taking root inside a former silverware factory, the mixed-use space follows the motto of “make stories not stores”, and so far openings have included the country’s most luxurious cinema, a food hall and the celebrated Bio Bazar. Other features stand to be added in the coming months, among them a Museum of Apples! Launched just as we were prepping to go to print, we’ll be back next month for the full lowdown. ul. Żelazna 51/53,

fabrykanorblina.pl

FORT MOKOTÓW

If you’ve not visited Fort Mokotów

before, shame on you. Like entering a secret world, a potholed lane flanked by scraggly bushes opens up to reveal a former Tsarist era military complex whose battered brick fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies, art studios and assorted creative think tanks. Food and drink also play a role here, with the lead taken by Żywa Kuchnia, an eatery that promises to regenerate the mind and body with their “bio-active, healing foods”. Schodki, meanwhile, is just about the most atmospheric gem you’ll ever wish to find: a place of battered brick, creaking wood and tangled vines, it’s a sublime setting for a bottle or three. ul. Racławicka 99

FORT 8

The penchant for reviving historical addresses and filling them with food and drink concepts has become a nationwide fixation, and Fort 8 stands as an example to all. Set at the point where Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów all meet, this 19th century Tsarist barracks has been buffed up spectacularly and its vaulted units infilled with workshops, stores and restaurants. Smashed sideways by the pandemic, the return of this upmarket bastion is good news for those that appreciated the charms of Dziruka od Klucza, Fort Bistro and Wine Corner. ul. Fort Służew 1B

warsawinsider.pl

Eat! listings latin & spanish CEVICHE BAR

With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4

mexican DOS TACOS

Who doesn’t like asking for something that’s ‘under the counter’. In the case of Dos Tacos, doing so means inquiring about their range of ‘salsa clandestinas’: extra hot sauces designed for reckless thrill-seekers. But the true secret weapon at Dos Tacos is Isabel Balderas, a Mexican chef that has mastered the bright, bold tastes of her native country. ul. Jasna 22

LA SIRENA

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

SENOR LUCAS

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on ul. Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)

middle eastern JOEL SHARING CONCEPT

smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9

polish (modern) BARON THE FAMILY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best!

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin. ul. Koszykowa 1

Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

LE CEDRE

BEZ GWIAZDEK

MAGHREB

Wiślana 8

With the decadent dazzle of a bedouin tent, nights in Le Cedre are best celebrated with blasts on a sheesha and their Friday night belly dancer. Otherwise, just settle for the best Lebanese food in CEE; of particular note, the charcoal-grilled lamb chops. Al. Solidarności 61 Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the addons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul.

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As

Eat! listings an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. The food matches up to the interiors, with a modern Polish menu that – on our visit – involved a thick, brilliantly spreadable foie gras pate, a thick slab of brawn and a delicate piece of moist Baltic cod. ul. Próżna 12

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

ZIELONY NIEDŹWIEDŹ

A sanctuary of elegant fancy, it’s a place of long, dark shadows and discreet decorative touches: From the outset, you’re made to feel that good things will happen, and this they do. Certified by Poland’s fledgling slow food movement, the daily tinkered menu that opens your eyes to the real tastes of Poland. ul.

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polish (classic) PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the

district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31

SCHABOWY

The simplicity of both the design and the dishes belies the quality. Start with a classic tartar before advancing into the real reason you’re here: a choice of breaded pork chops made from Mangalica or Złotnicka pork. This is Polish home cooking at its best. ul. Obrzeżna 1

STARY DOM

A classic restaurant in style and history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul.

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seafood L’ARC

Plucked alive and kicking from a burbling fish tank, L’Arc’s lobsters and crabs are among the best in the biz. Known for their obsessive devotion to seafood, other choices in this elegant, monochrome venue include six kinds of oysters and a bouillabaisse to blow your mind. ul. Puławska 16

LOKAL NA RYBĘ

Open for something along the lines of 18-hours per week (!), the limited times have created a supply / demand situation that makes reservations almost mandatory. Touting the basic aesthetics of a pop-up, the simple surrounds are outweighed by a weekly-changing menu showcasing what most foodies understand to be the most extraordinary fish in Warsaw. ul. Kwiatowa 1/3/4

steak houses BEEF N’ PEPPER

Beef N’ Pepper presents itself in a buzzy urban flash of violet blue lighting, slick banquette seating and open kitchen action. Straight away, you get the feeling of being in a place that’s alive and active, a feeling that’s affirmed by a busy backlit bar from behind which black-shirted staff fling sunny cocktails for the after-work crowd. Of course, it’s the food angle that takes precedence, and at Beef N’ Pepper highlights include thumping T-bones and a 60-day aged Argentinean top loin.

ul. Nowogrodzka 47A

BYKBAR

Casual and affordable to all, Byk unassuming interior flatters to deceive: you’re talking about a top quality meat-centric menu that out guns many of the bigger and more high-profile players. ul. Rozbrat 8

BUTCHERY & WINE

When Butchery opened in 2011 it completely transformed the way Poland viewed its steak. The first ‘new wave’ meat joint in the country, it’s launch lit the fuse for a steak revolution. Now an institution in its own right, this cosmopolitan spot remains one of the most sought out bookings in the capital.

ul. Żurawia 22

KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do

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Eat! listings also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29

(Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. Set inside a monochrome-floored, white-tiled interior adorned with an azure-colored neon and graphic illustrative wall art depicting tasty farmyard animals, it does more than simply serve our favorite meaty cuts; it makes the neighborhood feel complete. ul.

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Walecznych 64

Oboźna 9

MOKOTOWSKA 69

THAI THAI

Set inside a rotunda at the tail end of the street, it’s a place that exudes elegance and class. Most of all, however, it’s a restaurant to be enjoyed. On our last visit, the Insider enjoyed a volley of greats – creamy breaded calf brains, sophisticated smoked eel, and Mazurian crayfish served in a deep, joyous sauce of rowan berry and brandy. ul. Mokotowska 69

thai BANGKOK SOI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In a city where most Thai is overpriced and under-spiced Bangkok Soi are a knight in shining armor. Dispensing entirely of formality, order from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated

with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Replicating the street tastes of Bangkok, what next arrives is a whir of full-throated flavors that you never expected. It’s easy to become hopelessly lost in waves of bliss. Al.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

BASIL & LIME

One of only a handful of Thai restaurants in Poland to be certified by the international Thai Select organization, Basil & Lime are back after being forced to close their original Mokotow venue. Complete with a beautifully shaded pavement terrace, you can’t help but suspect the move has worked in their favor. Opening themselves to an entirely new audience in the center, this cult venue looks set to last on account of the skilled cooking of Thanawat Na Nagara. More on this soon! ul.

A visual feast of ink black colors and shimmering deities this is by far the most formal of Warsaw’s Thai options – and also the best. Peaks include a grilled beef salad full of citrusy twists, lively flavors and vibrant colors, and sundried pork neck that’s all manly crunch and nose-clearing sauce. And then there’s the tuna tartar, a dish zinging with fresh hits of coriander, mint, lime and chili. There’s no point in complimenting the chef, he’s heard it all before. Pl. Teatralny 3

THAISTY

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. Pl. Bankowy 4

russian & ukrainian REST.BACZEWSKICH

Seemingly designed to make visitors go ‘woah’, Baczewskich is nothing if not a fully-fledged exercise in unrestrained fancy: a composition of plush fabrics, gleaming glassware, framed certificates and contemporary extravagance, the high impact visuals set the tone for a distinguished few hours dining on the cuisine of Old Poland and pre-war Lviv. Though modernized in their look, these are good old-fashioned tastes befitting of the palace that they’re served in. Al. Szucha 17/19

SKAMIEJKA

As a social point, this family-run restaurant works incredibly well. Filled with assorted clutter and Russian bits and pieces (album covers, books, jars of pickles and jumble sale finds), the welcome is secondto-none, while beverages include a wide range of vodka and beer from the former Soviet-bloc nations. The food is hefty, comfort-driven and ideal for long, wintry nights. ul.

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vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

Eat! listings KUCHNIA KONFLIKTU

First founded to provide work for refugees fleeing conflict zones, this social project has won acclaim not just for social initiative, but also for its food. With employees hailing from the likes of Iran, Afghanistan, Chechnya and Iraq, prepare to dive deep into the exotic. ul. Wilcza 60

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

LOKAL VEGAN BISTRO

Aside from a small menu consisting of standard vegan offers, this stalwart keeps Homer Simpson characters in mind with regular guest slots for ‘junk food’ that’s given a full vegan makeover. Offhand, that’s meant vegan kebabs, cheesesteaks, burgers and zapiekanka, all of which have been pretty darn fabulous. ul. Krucza 23/31

MOMENCIK

Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key credit to its name: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent. ul. Poznańska 16

ÓSMA KOLONIA

Having been established in 2014, this gem of vegetarian/vegan restaurant opened long before the plant-based new wave landed in Warsaw. A place of distressed concrete and dangling bare bulbs, design isn’t so much minimal as it is non-existent, but that fits in with the underlying spirit of natural

cool. Sourcing veg from grocer extraordinaire Pan Żiołko and the dairy from the cult Mlezcna Droga, find the quality ingredients magicked up into dishes like eggplant meatballs, with fresh mint, pine nuts, parmesan and ricotta. ul. Słowackiego 15/19

PEACHES GASTRO GIRLS

Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come. ul. Mokotowska 58

SABICH

A fun, sociable space, touchdown in this eatery to feast your way through a menu involving seitan shawarma boxes, Yemeni soup loaded with lentils and veg, ready-to-go shakshouka boxes, and Israeli-style sabich sandwiches rammed with avocado, eggplant, potatoes and mango mayo – all squished inside a pita or baguette. Whoever invented that combo, come forth to receive your medal. Al. Wyzwolenia 13

TEL AVIV

A major icebreaker in terms of Poland’s vegan revolution, Tel Aviv woo with a super-funky, design that evokes the spirit of the Israeli capital through its raw finishes and street art motif. The food is a bonanza of Middle Eastern tastes and has, in the past, been wolfed down by passing members of Depeche Mode. ul. Poznanska 11

VEGAN RAMEN SHOP

Nothing short of a phenomenon, that they’ve continued to expand in the face of a pandemic illustrates the demand. Now found in Saska Kępa (a cool venue decorated with ‘levitating shelves’), Mokotów (wall art, bamboo and a giant cat), and Muranów (Street Fighter arcade game and a pink surfboard), their fans head here for what many have described as ‘the best noodles in the world!’ Order the spicy miso ramen and you too will become a convert. ul Finlandzka 12 a, ul. Kazimierzowska 43 & Al. Jana Pawła II 52/54

VEG DELI

An entrance beset with candles, plant pots and seasonal veg charms people in, and they tend to stay on to dine on creative vegetarian options that absolutely always hit the spot. Set on leafy Radna street, the summer terrace is a joy. ul. Radna 14

UKI GREEN

Brought to you by Taira Matsuki, the owner of the outrageously successful Uki Uki, the menu includes alternatives such as kimchi-cheese gyoza dumplings, spiced soy meat and ‘vegan eel’. The real plaudits, however, are reserved for the ramen. Tag yourself up in an interior that’s big on Japanese wood joints and concrete finishes. ul. Koszykowa 49A

YOUMIKO VEGAN SUSHI

Exceptional in every respect, Youmiko’s tasting menu is one of the undisputed highlights of what’s become known as the vegan square mile. “Our aim,” declares their manifesto, “is to mix traditional Japanese approaches with Polish creativity and surprise you with new textures and flavors.” Mission accomplished. ul. Hoża 62

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Drink!

First Sip

Pizzaiolo ul. Krucza 16/22

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

FASHIONABLY LATE Lately, not a month has passed without us plugging Krucza – good things are happening here, and many of those can be traced directly back to Pizzaiolo. First coming to the fore as a hero of the lockdown, their upward trajectory has continued at pace. Their success owes only partially to Warsaw’s newfound mania for Neapolitan-style pizza. Filling an equally important role as a late-night bar, head here for beers from Inne Beczki or author’s cocktails with names like Ginger

George and Pear Harbor. Good as these are, it’s the vibe that’s most memorable – a place of retro tiled flooring and wood-slatted booths, footfall peaks at weekends when the clock hits midnight. Often bypassing the food altogether, it’s then that a young, Insta-minded crowd merge as one in a sea of tatts and selfies and street-brand hoodies. Often serving till way after three, it’s embedded well within an area that’s become home to Warsaw’s global generation.

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Craft Beer POUR DECISIONS This month, we drop in for a pint at Elektrownia Powiśle to talk with Elektryk’s Jacek Błedowski. A beer judge and Cicerone-certified beer server, Jacek reveals what Warsaw's drinking!

BALTIC PORTER BY CIESZYN For a chilly November day, I recommend a Baltic Porter. These are related to the imperial stouts that were once shipped over to the Tsars and while the style was developed in the Baltics, I think its in Poland you’ll find the best. It’s a heavier beer, more mouthy. You can feel the toastiness as well as notes of chocolate and coffee. Very complex, I’d pair it with a beef stew or a good steak. As for the brewery, that recently regained its independence and is doing a great job of repairing its reputation.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

Elektryk Bar ul. Dobra 42 (Elektrownia Powiśle), elektrykbar.com

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

BERLINER WEISSE BY STU MOSTOW So this one is Stu Mostow’s interpretation of Berliner Weisse, a light, wheat beer style traditional to Berlin. It’s given a fruity spin with the strawberries and though it’s a very summery drink it’s proved so popular that I stock it all year around. You can feel its freshness whilst the lactic bacteria adds an interesting complexity to this pint. CHATEAU BY BROWAR ARTEZAN Brewed near Warsaw by one of the country’s original craft breweries, this release is dark in the bottle and reddish when poured. Fermented and barrel-aged, it’s both sour and wild – it’s got a tartness and acidity that resembles the old Belgian styles and its oaky back-taste lends a funkiness to it. There’s a bit of farmyard in it, a bit of horse blanket. It’s perfect with venison!

FARM TO PINT BY PINTA Poland’s first craft brewery have come up with something unique here with this collaboration. Basically, they were one of only six European breweries invited over to the States by Wyckoff, one of the world's most famous hop farms. This is what they came up with, and I think it shows how much hops can differ depending on their geographic source. This one is a West Coast Double IPA, so it’s a little bitter but also slightly hazy. It’s a great play on styles. MANGO ALE BY BROWAR GRODZISK This brewery made its name producing Grodzisk beers – a smoked wheat style exclusive to Poland. Now, they brew all kinds, and that’s proved by this light and fruity non-alcoholic mango ale. Non-alcohol beers are trending heavily, and I think it’s brilliant that our beer revolution has been so inclusive – everyone has been considered!

MISTY BY TRZECH KUMPLI The world over it’s all about IPAs right now, and Poland isn’t any different. Personally, one of my favorite breweries in PL is Trzech Kumpli and you’ll always find their Misty served here – it’s a contemporary IPA so this one chases flavor and aroma rather than bitterness. SAISON BY DUPONT I’d call this a hidden treasure of Elektryk. As a style, Sasion was born in Belgium and brewed as a farmhouse ale for seasonal workers. In my mind, this is the complete beer: you have maltiness, a bitterness that’s higher than that found in the usual pale lagers and the kind of freshness that you get with European hops – it’s flowery and herbal but not as intense as an IPA – after all, the Belgians have never been about extreme tastes, they just want their beer to taste good. It’s hard to go wrong with this!

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Wine List

Forget the bog standard offers, join us for a look at the wine bars and stores that are doing something different…

BARIKA Emilii Plater 36 Arranging their stock via style and price rather than country of origin, Barika’s alternative approach is well-suited to entry-level drinkers that are easily intimated by Warsaw’s higher-brow stores. Even their web page allows you to choose wines based the occasion and your mood – sad? Happy? Prepping for a date? Or just want to get drunk for no special reason!? Frankly, the way they demystify wine is an example to all. CHEERS Browarna 4 A hybrid store whose versatility is every bit as welcome as the ambiance itself. Made with the modern Powiśle person in mind, swing in for a space lined with bottles facing in towards a communal table. The quality is not to be snorted at, but it’s

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

SHUTTERSTOCK

WINES FOR THE TIMES

tions: Slovenia, Czech, Austria and Georgia. “The dry Tokaj,” promises Izabela, “is excellent”. When choice is made, settle down to enjoy them in an engaging, intimate interior. NATURAL RASCAL BOTTLE SHOP Hoża 61 Founded by interior designer Dominika Buck and film producer Radek Drabik, Warsaw’s most talked about wine importer have continued to make a splash ever since setting up a bricks-and-mortar location on a trending stretch of lively Emili Plater. Specializing in natural wines sourced from small, artisanal wineries, the diverse and extensive portfolio favors the unconventional with the choice solely focused on organic and biodynamic varietals. Operating solely as a store, we’ve been told to expect a restobar from Rascal anytime soon.

their categorization that really strikes a home run: where wine’s concerned, that means splitting the shelves into those marked for the ‘connoisseur’, ‘for relaxation’, ‘for select’ and ‘on trend’. In the latter discover a wealth of wines from small, sustainable vineyards in Poland and beyond. They’re not short on other alcohols either, including rums, whisky, gin and craft beer. The party starts here! RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ Wilcza 27 As a restaurant this place went a little under-the-radar – subsequently reinvented as a wine bar, it’s fared a whole lot better. “In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” In addition to their Spanish, Italian and French collections, find excellent wines from less familiar destina-

LALOU WINE CONCEPT Krochmalna 56 You thoroughly expected Browary Warszawskie to come up with a spectacular wine concept, and indeed they have. Overseen by Magda Butkiewicz-Dudzińska and Norbert Dudziński (former sommelier at Dyletanci as well as the triple Michelin-starred Geranium), their stint in Copenhagen is evidenced via a beautiful design defined by its sophisticated simplicity, soft curved lines and sense of light and space. Familial in its atmosphere, the offer is not to be shrugged at. “Wines from Champagne, Jura, the Loire Valley, Burgundy, Etna, Tenerife, Moselle are our essence,” says Norbert. “And also natural wines as well – organic, biodynamic, low-intervention, modernists, terrorists, authenticists and naturalists.” RAJ PIWOSZA Bora-Komorowskiego 56A For those living on the city’s right side, Raj Piwosza became a legend of the lockdown – an off-license and general lifeline selling an emphatic choice of craft beers, niche wines and other artisanal liquid somethings. Perhaps driven by the discovery of the area’s thirst for their offerings, they’ve gone another step by launching a bar with a similarly exhaustive selection of drinkies. Primarily that means beer, but wine isn’t forgotten either. Set in a newish residential development on the frontline of Grochów, Gocław and Saska Kępa, it’s a super-friendly destination with few airs and graces.

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Drink! listings after work classics DZIEŃ I NOC

Looking insta friendly with its interior of brickwork, succulents and marble-topped tables, Dzień I Noc have earned a cult following since opening at the height of the pandemic. Offering authors cocktails and mainstream beers, it offers the promise of a solid night out in these paranoid times. Pl.

Mirowski 1

FRANCUSKA 30

The brollies that dangle teasingly over the terrace are one of Saska’s most photographed sights, but this café earns its visitors by providing ace coffee brewed using Chemex, Aeropress and Drip methods, as well as a range of French crepes, above-average cocktails and a healthy smattering of craft beer. Cool, minimal and reassuringly artistic, it’s a café-bar that feels central to the social function of Saska. ul. Francuska 30

LEGENDS Run by Graham, an ex-embassy bod and devout Everton fan (well, someone has to be), this Brit pub has become the de facto choice when the football is on. Or the rugby. Or the cricket. Or just about any other sport that expats care to watch. Whether it’s the Champions League or Bristol City on a wet, Tuesday night, there’s just no better space for boozy banter while the match unfolds. ul. Emilii Plater 25,

legendsbar.pl

WOZOWNIA

Wozownia brings together a good-looking crowd inside a

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

200-year-old carriage house whose competent cocktails and cheapy Prosecco keep it busy. Accessed through a discreet pink-lit passage, and decked out with crates of herbs and flowering plants, the courtyard feels like a cool, private realm. Pl.

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clubbing

from a film – only tonight, you’re one of the stars. Sod the bank account, you think, bring me champagne: enjoy just that on a terrace deck slung with Edison bulbs, or indoors in an area festooned with deluxe sofas and floor-to-ceiling windows that stare out onto the National Stadium opposite. ul. Wioślarska 6

SYRENI ŚPIEW KONESER

Jerozolimskie 6

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Almost insane in the scale of its ambition, the multi-floor set up is a big, sexy mash of steel stairs, velvet sofas and industrial add-ons. As for the weekend parties, these are an exercise in excess with all kinds of lunacy breaking out: trapeze artists, sword swallowers, burlesque dancers and more. Leaving, it’s with the senses spinning in a swirl of disbelief. The very definition of debauched decadence, the brilliance is underlined by flawless cocktails and the best-looking crowd in the country. Pl. Konesera 4

RITUAL

SPATIF

LUZTRO

Dark and generally grubby, Warsaw’s most (in)famous club only gets going around about three. As the hours click towards daybreak, the scenes of depravity are like something from Sodom and Gomorrah. Enjoyed by zombies that quite definitely don’t have to be up for work anytime in the next 48 hrs, it’s not just the full-on techno that will leave the brain rattling – it’s the craziest night in Poland! Al.

Looking dark and sensual, this two-level space unwraps before you like some elaborate adventure. Candles flicker, atmosphere crackles – moving towards the bar, slinky, sultry club creatures of unfathomable beauty prowl past with drinks poised in hand. Heating up gradually as the night progresses, Ritual moves organically from being a voluptuous bar to a spicy club as the night ebbs towards its heady conclusion. ul. Mazowiecka 12

SEN

Entering this top-floor joint, visitors are hit by a tidal wave of gorgeousness: wall-to-wall with George Clooney lookalikes, off-duty celebrities and catwalk glamor pusses, the carefree hedonism is like something

Just a smashing night all round: from jazzy singers to funk and soul via a dose of Britpop, the ever likeable Spatif is what Warsaw needs – a place that’s not up its own arse! A labyrinth of pre-war chambers add atmosphere, as does the kind of basement smoking room that encourages obscure chat with indiscriminate strangers. Spatif’s main success lies in replicating the spontaneous feel of a house party that’s spiraled out of control Al.

Ujazdowskie 45

cocktails AURA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Nestled inside a small nook on

Drink! listings Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons. ul. Hoża 27

BAR WIECZORNY

Fixed by some of the biggest names in Polish cocktail culture, the cocktails are a serious biz here and neatly complimented by a beautiful garden set with crates and little lights dangling from the

trees. Mokotów doesn’t have the best reputation for nightlife, but in Wieczorny the area has a star of some legend. ul. Wiśniowa 46

CHARLIE

Crowd: glam & vampy. The venue: equally so. Occupying the first floor of a pre-war tenement, there’s a magic here that summons the age of F. Scott Fitzgerald – Gatsby would love it. The ace in the pack is a ‘subconscious menu’ from which clients order mystery cocktails based on their scent. ul. Mokotowska 39

EL KOKTEL

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar

it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9

FLAMING BISTRO

With its perfect white colors, the glass-fronted oblong form of this pearl of interwar modernism has an elegant sophistication to it that’s ravishing to look at. But it becomes even more so out the back. It’s here you’ll find a garden that’s been in-filled with well-spaced wooden

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Drink! listings decks hiding amid the vegetation and plant life. A garden in the truest sense of the word, the best view is from the balcony on top. Accessed via a glorious spiral staircase, it’s from here you gaze down on the impeccable Saska crowd that gathers below to sip sparkly wines, house lemonades and author’s cocktails. ul. Francuska 2

LONG BAR

Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

LORETA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup.

ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

PALOMA INN

Inspired by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, it’s a joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curvaceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’. Groovy muzak provides the audio, whilst the crowd is young, international and thirsty – the author’s cocktails are great, with our winner being the Green Bubble (melon liquor, cognac, tarragon, lemon juice and fizzy water). For food, order fondue or herring served with vegan caviar in the layered style of an éclair. ul. Poznańska 21

REGINABAR

Hip and happening, the concept at Reginabar is a wacky amalgam that mixes elements of New York’s Little Italy with China Town next door. The menu rocks, but find it augmented by a dynamic cocktail list that reflects the crazy things happening in Warsaw’s world of drinks: that means, the regular sips aside, ‘magic cocktails’ with names such as Power Spells and Star Dust. Dazzly and mysterious, lap these up in an interior that joins the retro with the avant garde. ul. Koszykowa 1

VHS BAR

An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff, and enjoy them on a pavement terrace that teems with life and laughter once evening strikes. Poznańska 7

craft beer BEER STATION CENTRUM

Traipse down a plunging set of stairs to reach a cave-like space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness. Proudly Belarussian run, the

welcome from the owners is warm, sincere and never short on cheer. Stay here for an hour and you’ll feel you’ve known them for years. For booze, there’s twelve beers on tap and these include some excellent craft swigs along with more standard drinks. ul. Lwowska 17

CHMIELARNIA MARSZAŁKOWSKA

A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

CRAFT BEER MURANÓW

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers. ul. Andersa 23

CUDA NA KIJU

Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid, socialist era arcades. Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls, queue inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various

Drink! listings European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. Watching the sunset while looking out towards the city’s iconic palm tree installations is a pure Warsaw moment. For those averse to the sun, find outdoor seating extending well beyond and into the echoing, shaded courtyard of this immense, impressive building. ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

CZEŚĆ

It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage)

DRUGIE DNO

To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station. Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. ul. Nowogrodzka 4

JABEERWOCKY

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced

by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12

Saska Kępa, it’s a sure bet to become a neighborhood essential.

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul. Nowogrodzka 25

SAME KRAFTY

KUFLE I KAPSLE

PINTA

Taking the space once occupied by the ill-fated Mikkeller Bar, Pinta’s flagship bears many of the hallmarks of the previous tenant: a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and chunks of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant. Pinta, if you don’t know, can be considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft beer scene, and this bar gives their portfolio the attention it deserves. ul. Chmielna 7/9

RAJ PIWOSZA

For those living on the city’s right side, Raj Piwosza became a legend of the lockdown – an off-license and general lifeline selling an emphatic choice of craft beers, niche wines and other artisanal liquid somethings. Perhaps driven by the discovery of the area’s thirst for their offerings, they’ve gone another step by launching a bar with a similarly exhaustive selection of drinkies. Set in a newish residential development on the frontline of Grochów, Gocław,

ul. Bora-Komorowskiego 56A

Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. ul. Nowomiejska 10

dive bars CZESKA BASZTA

Contained within a grotty bridge support, divey Czeska is permanently immersed in a foggy, yellow glow. Boisterous but extremely friendly, there’s a reason for all the man hugs and back slaps: everyone’s smashed! The frothy pints of lager are sourced from the owner’s favorite small town breweries, and the fridge kept stocked courtesy of his own cross-border forays. Tower 22A, Most Poniatowskiego, czeskabaszta.pl

NOWY ŚWIAT ‘PAVILIONS’

For the highest condensation of bars in the capital head to ‘the pavilions’, a collection of ramshackle drinking cabins, shot bars and sheesha lairs inside a tight grid of shadowy back alleys. Adding to the gentle sense of confusion comes the realization that so many bars look the same – accessed through clattery, barred doors, visitors walk into what can only be described as

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Drink! listings murk and chaos. Find them through the passageway at Nowy Świat 26.

ŚWIETLICA

Long and narrow, dark and murky, it’s as raw as they come: toilets of grubby menace, a smoking room clad in spray can art, broken fittings and general gloom. Basically, it’s everything you demand from the last bar of the night – a place where you can slide into the shadows and watch the world spin around. (E7) ul. Marszałkowska 17

late night legends BAR STUDIO

The dehumanizing scale of the Palace of Culture is diluted in warmer weather when Pl. Defilad turns into something of an outdoor party thanks to Bar Studio’s presence – and no worries if it rains, the epic colonnades were built as if to provide shelter from the storm. And with no nearby neighbors to ruin the party, it’s just about one of the only places in Warsaw where noise is never an issue – scream and no-one cares. Pl. Defilad 1

BEIRUT & KRAKEN

Somewhere, amid all the junk relating to the Lebanese conflict (grenades, sandbags, ammo boxes, a rocket…), you’ll find the spirit of Poznańska contained within this long, skinny bar. As fashionable now as it was when it opened, forget not to finish the evening in their connecting venture, the Pirates of the Caribbean-style Kraken Rum Bar. Everybody else does at some stage or other, with evenings often dissolving into a wild, happy whirl of international

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

voices. ul. Poznańska 12

GRAM

Up the stairs you go to enter Gram, a small room that invokes feelings of stepping inside a circus Big Top. Order up a craft beer from the fridge before making your way around the arcade games and pinball machines squeezed inside – come on, there’s not much to beat the feeling of outscoring your date on Space Invaders and Pac-Man. Between turns, count the number of monkey figures parachuting from the ceiling... ul. Marszałkowska 45/49

live entertainment HYDROZAGADKA / CHMURY Set out in the wildlands of Praga, consider this pair of neighboring venues as the definition of unforced cool. Known for their alternative music scene, the low-ceilings and their tight, crowded confines generate an electrifying atmosphere where the audience and band become one. Walking a fine line between industrial and straight out decrepit, the ambiance is second to none: drinks flow, strangers meet and music smashes out – you can feel something special happening here. ul. 11 Listopada 22

KLUB POGŁOS

Scuzzy and a bit seamy, this alt. performance venue gives Warsaw an interesting, if not utterly random direction with an events schedule that involves spoken word performances, vegan BBQs, old skool rave nights and hardcore gigs from bands with names like Cancer Bats and Moscow Death

Brigade. They’ve had bingo nights, as well – hosted by Charlotte Drag Queer. In a city that’s always felt a little lacking in the ‘live’ department, Pogłos punches past sensibility to present evenings that are raw, uncompromising and always high on action. ul. Burakowska 12

WOREK KOŚCI

H.P. Lovecraft would love it. Decorated with replica skulls (400 reckons the owner!), this place is nothing if not a passionate celebration of the beautiful and bizarre. Burlesque shows are their specialty, but at other times don’t be too shocked to stumble in on meetings with private detectives, seminars by criminal profilers or gigs by bands with names such as Bipolar Order. Crazy, brilliant, etc., and ideal for a night with a difference. ul. Bagatela 10

specialty coffee COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Wilcza 42

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small

Drink! listings footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul. Hoża 58/60

FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a halfmad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). ul. Andersa 6

FORUM

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

RELAKS

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul. Puławska 48

STOR

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior,

it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul.

Tamka 33

wine bars ALE WINO

Summers here are magical, with drinkers congregating on a courtyard deck shielded from the sun by a slanted white sail; but winters aren’t too shabby either – lose yourself within a warren of warmly-lit rooms that feel snug, intimate and even a little rustic. The choice of 250 plus wines is supported by some of the best cooking in the city. ul.

Mokotowska 48

BUBBLES

Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance. A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Damn right there’s a lot to like at Bubbles, but there’s even more to love. Pl. Piłsudskiego 9

CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. ul.

Koszykowa 49A

DYLETANCI

The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and

a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). ul.

Rozbrat 44

LA BUVETTE

La Buvette sits like a hidden gem, nestled on a charming street that radiates off Stara Ochota’s Pl. Narutowicza – tree-lined and looking like a cloned version of a picturesque arrondissement of Paris, it’s a pleasure to sit on the terrace. And if you’ve got a tiny dog, you’ll fit right in! Come evening, pick through boards of gourmet cheese whilst sipping on a curated choice of French wines picked by co-owner Harold, a native of Strasbourg. ul. Mochnackiego 4/43

RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ

Formerly a restaurant serving pre-war cuisine, Rausz na Wilczej used the pandemic to reposition themselves as a wine store / bar, building on their previous reputation for sourcing quirky labels you wouldn’t have necessarily heard of before. “In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” ul. Wilcza 27

WINNICE MOŁDAWII

Set in a 1920s villa that miraculously survived the war, you’ll be visiting for a family-run business specializing in the import of Moldovan, Georgian and Romanian wines. Covering both classics and the latest trends, it’s a portfolio that’s broad in its style and aching to be discovered inside a converted garage attached to the house. ul.

Czarnieckiego 63A

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PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF MAW

A KIND OF MAGIC!

Ongoing until the end of the year, approximately 30 works by Zdzisław Beksiński have been placed on display at the Museum of the Archdiocese of Warsaw. Loaned from the collection of Anna and Piotr Dmochowski, the exhibition presents a range of paintings by the artist which show the full depth of his outrageous imagination. A proponent of the ‘magic realist’ style, Beksiński was stabbed to death in 2005 in a crime that shocked the nation. Viewed as one of the country’s best-loved contemporary painters, his name was back in the news in October after one of his paintings, ‘Postać’, sold for nearly zł. 2 million at auction. Muzeum Archidiecezji Warszawskiej ul. Dziekania 1, maw.art.pl

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BECAUSE YOU’RE BEAUTIFUL!

As Warsaw’s go-to destination when it comes to keeping up appearances, this autumn take a deeper dive into the salons found within Elektrownia’s Beauty Hall…

howcasing unique solutions for unique people (yes, that means you!), Elektrownia Powiśle’s Beauty Hall defies classification. Yes, it offers a safe harbor in which to replenish your looks, but that represents just a fragment of the story. Overseen by expert Maryla Szpala, manager of the Beauty Hall, the coherent collection of units have been designed to effortlessly complement each other to provide for a one-stop experience as autumn bites down. But peerless as it is in its rich array of treatments, it’s come to represent something fundamentally more. Recognizing that beauty is more than just skin deep, it’s a place in which the soul feels nourished and nursed by the best in the biz. Just because November is feeling grey, that does not mean you should as well. Imparting a sense of wellness both inside and out, you visit the Beauty Hall to reignite the colors that lie deep within.

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

BALANCE & BEAUTY BY MARTA BEM

Whisk yourself somewhere exotic at Balance & Beauty, an atmospheric unit complete with handcarved massage tables made from century-old woods. Ayurvedic and Balinese massages are a specialty, though they’ll also turn their hand to acupuncture and other such things aimed at healing both the mind and body.

BEAUTY SKIN

Discover eleven laser therapies for hair removal, as well as the Poland’s first Alma Harmony XL Pro device. Of their other innovative products, you’ll be visiting to try out their Mira Dry – a non-invasive treatment that permanently reduce sweating after just one application.

DNA CLINICS

If the name suggest high-tech, then you couldn’t be more right. Specializing in cryotherapy treatments, visitors climb inside a state-of-the-art cryochamber before being blasted with cool air. Capable of improving the skin, cutting calories, reducing stress and producing endorphins, they also offer ‘cryo shots’ aimed at killing hangovers or boosting testosterone.

DUDA HAIR DESIGN

If a place is to be judged on its clientele, then Duda fares better than most. Caring for no shortage of stars, previous visitors include Poland’s answer to royalty: Robert and Anna Lewandowski. Covering all the latest hair trends, treatments include the cutting edge nanoplasty treatments. Beauty Hall ul. Dobra 42 (Elektrownia Powiśle), elektrowniapowisle.com

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learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.org

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl 68

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reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a

18.12.2018 12:32

lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual

School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts

children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul. Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6

years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A

(entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a

ADMISSIONS OPEN EARLY YEARS, PRIMARY, SECONDARY & IB admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125

thebritishschool.pl

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system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728

939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been

welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:

admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International

Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit .

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made

for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school.

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education.

ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4

(grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf. edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul.

Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604 137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul. Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel.

787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping fashion

experiences ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al. Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

PLAC UNII MOLIERA 2 BOUTIQUE

Brands: Alexnadre Birman, Alexandre Vauthier, Aquazzura, Balmain, Beach Bunny, Burberry, Buscemi, Casadei, Christian Louboutin, Cult Gaia, Francesco Russo, Gianvito Rossi, Golden Goose, Herve Leger, Isabel Marant, Kenzo, Maison Michel, Marc Jacobs, Manolo Blahnik, Moncler, OneTeaspoon, Self-Portrait, Tod’s, Tory Burch, Victoria Beckham, Yves Salomon, Zimmermann. ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com

PL. TRZECH KRZYŻY 3/4

Brands: Beach Bunny, Buscemi, Canada Goose, Casadei, Christian Louboutin Men, Dsquared2, Fay, Gianvito Rossi, Hogan, Kenzo, Moncler, Mr & Mrs Italy, OTS, Ralph Lauren, Tod’s, Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Valentino, Yves Salomon. Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl

MYSIA 3

Set in Poland’s former censorship office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

VITKAC WOLF BRACKA

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney, Stone Island and Rick Owens. ul. Bracka 9,

likusconceptstore.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

Royal Łazienki Park & Palace ul. Agrykola 1, lazienki-krolewskie.pl

AT THE DOUBLE

PHOTOGRAPHS COURTESY OF ROYAL ŁAZIENKI

This November, visit Łazienki to view two works by the acclaimed sculptress Ursula von Rydingsvard…

wo iconic works by one of America’s most recognizable artists, Ursula von Rydingsvard, have gone on show in Łazienki. Last presented in Poland in 1992, this time around viewers will be able to ponder two monumental sculptures that typify the artist’s dynamic style. Combining the kind of precision associated with medieval craftsmanship with her own distinct abstract eye, her unique pieces made their Polish debut in October and will remain on show until February

13th of 2022. Displayed on the lawn outside the Old Orangery, the first of these, Elegantka II, was previously exhibited at the 56th Biennale in Venice as well as the Sculpture Garden of the Philadelphia Museum of Art. Taking the form of a robust column that gently turns on its axis in the manner of a Renaissance serpentine figure, the illuminated sculpture touts “a poetic glow owing to its translucent resin”. But it does not end there. Made in 2015 from cedar wood – a material characteris-

tically favored by the artist – those stepping inside the orangery will also get to admire For Natasha, a stunning work cut and spliced in the artist’s atelier. Of Polish-Ukrainian heritage, the artist began her career in 1975 after graduating from New York’s Columbia University. Citing Mark Rothko, Albert Giacometti Wassily Kandinsky, Sol Le Witt and Philip Guston as her spiritual guides, her own creative path has seen her forge a name across the globe thanks to dozens of international installations.

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

warsawinsider.pl

REMEMBER, REMEMBER, YOUR STYLE IN NOVEMBER As autumn enters its chilly end-game, you’ll need to look as cool and crisp as the weather itself. No problem – align your style to the moods and colors of the season at Designer Outlet Warszawa.

Coat by Pinko zł. 2,355 now zł. 1,555 Pants by MaxMara / Made in M zł. 3,399 now zł. 2,369 Sneakers by Lacoste / Sizeer zł. 499.99 now zł. 349.99 Turtleneck by Pennyblack / Made in M zł. 709 now zł. 489 Sunglasses by Chloé / Optyk Mikulscy zł. 1,119 now zł. 783

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

Sweater by MaxMara / Made in M zł. 1,029 now zł. 719 Coat by MaxMara / Made in M zł. 2,349 now zł. 1,639 Gloves by Ochnik zł. 139 now zł. 99 Pants by MaxMara / Made in M zł. 1,019 now zł. 709

PIASECZNO | Puławska 42E designeroutletwarszawa.pl

warsawinsider.pl

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

4 9 km

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

8 2

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

warsawinsider.pl

TWO SIDES TO NOVEMBER

No matter how busy November’s calendar of events might get, for Poles only two dates truly matter…

Warsaw Insider | NOVEMBER 2021

ith practically every street witness to some massacre or other, Warsaw has a lot of remembering to do. This it does by lighting lantern-style votive candles (known locally as znicze) under the zillions of memorials around town. It’s a custom that hits fever pitch whenever a specific anniversary approaches. Most stunning of all, however, is All Saints’ Day on November 1st. That’s a time that sees the whole country

descend on cemeteries to honor the dead – by the time the public has left, entire graveyards are left bathed in the eerie reddish glow of these dancing little lights. But this is not the only day to mark down in the diary. Whilst in western Europe November 11th is solemnly remembered as Armistice Day – the anniversary marking the end of WWI – in Poland it signifies a far happier moment: the date on which the nation was reborn after decades of partitions. Well, we say ‘happier’, but in recent years Independence Day has served to highlight the schisms in Polish society. Underlining the current divisions, the annual parades and marches that take place across the capital have become a platform for civil unrest. Though things have settled considerably since the 2012 riots that culminated in a coordinated mob attack on the Russian Embassy, it remains a day on which all eyes focus nervously on Warsaw. Rarely without controversy, this year’s Independence Day could again prove a fiery affair after it was revealed that a tugof-war had developed concerning the registration of certain parade routes. In previous years, the most patriotic marchers have traditionally gathered at Rondo Dmowskiego before advancing over Poniatowski Bridge. Despite concerted efforts to thwart them, it’s looking likely that the procession will again follow this tried and tested path.

SHUTTERSTOCK

This Month

Warsaw Insider November 2021 #303

Articles inside

The Eatery

Author John Lynch

Studio 370