Review
THE FEAST IN THE EAST
Something special is afoot in Warsaw’s concrete eastern wilds… COORDINATES We’re well-used to dismissing far-flung restaurants as being in no-man’s land, but in this case The Eatery is so far off-center it practically falls off the radar. Is that a bad thing? Nah, of course it isn’t. We all know that the center tanked during The Great Bat Flu, and the opening of The Eatery is another affirmation of how Warsaw’s food map has expanded outwards as a consequence of that. So where is it exactly? To be honest, we’ve really no idea – somewhere in the grey zone that could pass as Grochów, Gocław or the enigma that is Gocławek. Set on a ground unit of a residential new build, you’re under a five-minute walk from Atrium Promenada.
VISUALS Though capable of holding not that many more than twenty-five diners, space is not an issue: floor-to-ceiling windows and a mirrored wall grant an illusory sense of room, whilst the neutral color palette generates a chameleon effect – in sunshine, The Eatery feels bright and vibrant, and in darkness, intimate and atmospheric. To this, add a dose of terrazzo surfaces, orblike lights and a smattering of plants and you have yourself a restaurant that feels comfortable to dwell in whatever the hour. Oh, and the playlist is the very definition of after-work chill – find your mood automatically enhanced by all these good vibes.
PEOPLE I’m unsure if they want the self-publicity, so I shan’t reveal the owners, but needless to say this young couple have a strong history in hospitality and design – this shows, and emphatically so. Then, wearing the hat in the kitchen, you’ve got Bartłomiej Trojanowski, a huge talent whose background includes A-list choices such as Kieliszki na Próżnej. FURTHER READING Presented on a sexy little clipboard, the menu does tout some international choices; for the most part, though, you’re looking at modern Polish: this isn’t fine dining, but it is classic recipes reimagined with modern flair. Drinks-wise, there’s
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