Warsaw Insider October 2021 #302

LOOKIN’ GOOD The Capital’s Original City Magazine Since 1996

Fall fashion from Designer Outlet Warszawa –p.16

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OCTOBER 2021 Features:

On The Record! Explore Warsaw’s thrilling world of vinyl – p. 30 Light It Up Neons of Elektrownia - p. 8

Game of Drones Aerial photography – p. 20 Silent Witness Trees of the Uprising – p. 12 Poland’s Most Haunted! Otwock sanatorium - p. 26

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Contents October 2021

Reviews: EAT! Japonki – p. 37

Peaches Gastro Girls – p. 38 Philly’s Finest Cheesesteaks – p. 40 Le Braci – p. 42 Éclair round-up – p. 44

DRINK!

Natural Rascal Bottle Shop – p. 53 Paloma Inn – p. 54 Warsaw Beer Festival – p. 56 Beer Station Centrum – p. 58

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE BY ED WIGHT, COVER PHOTO BY PIOTR NAREWSKI

Discover

Labyrinth near Warsaw – p. 63 Kubicki Stables – p. 64

NOT A BAD SUMMER, WAS IT? But overlooking the sense of creeping paranoia relating to the next wave of Covid, autumn promises to be equally memorable – for starters, there’s the return of the Warsaw Beer Festival to dust yourself down for. It’s also not a bad time to explore either, which is why we’ve spent the last few weeks poking around everything from vinyl stores to abandoned sanatoriums in the middle of the woods (eek!). Yep, with Halloween round the corner, the opportunity to creep ourselves out was to good to resist. Yet for all that, autumn is all about the outdoors. It’s hard to think of a time when Warsaw – or Poland for that matter – looks better than when it finds itself dunked inside a bucket of caramel and carrot-colored paints. Bringing these outrageous shades out in their fullest, we catch up with three drone photographers in this month’s flagship feature. Enjoy it and see ya’ next month!

Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Zachęta – p. 67

Subscription Editor-in-chief Alex Webber insider@warsawinsider.pl

Publisher Morten Lindholm mlindholm@valkea.com

Art Director Kevin Demaria kdemaria@valkea.com

Distribution Manager Krzysztof Wiliński kwilinski@valkea.com

Advertising Manager Jowita Malich jmalich@valkea.com

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In brief COMICS

City of Heroes

Batman hits Warsaw!

PUBLIC ART

Off The Wall

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA, PRESS MATERIAL

Artist Tytus Brzozowski strikes again!

stablished as one of Poland’s favorite and most recognizable artists of the contemporary era, Tytus Brzozowski has added to his ever expanding portfolio of murals with yet one more work, this one just outside of Warsaw’s at Nadarzyńska 89 in Grodzisk Mazowiecki. Celebrated for his surreal depictions of city scenes, Brzozowski’s latest effort was commissioned on the occasion of the city’s 500th anniversary. Fittingly, the mural is heavy with references to the town’s

most important buildings and landmarks: the railway station, Villa Foksal and the Chełmoński manor house. Not forgetting the manmade Walczewski lake, a trio of sailing boats are also shown gliding over the lake’s calm waters. Having originally gone viral with his enchanting, dreamlike oil paintings, Brzozowski has increasingly found himself in demand as a mural artist. Having first gone super-size in 2018, the artist has since created seven large-format murals in Warsaw.

eleased to coincide with Batman Day in mid-September, the caped crusader’s latest adventures saw him land in Warsaw as part of a one-off project involving 14 international writers. Published by DC Comics, the Dark Knight’s fight for justice went global with ‘Batman: The World’, a 184-page book that brought together a host of creatives who reimagined the comic book hero in stories based in their own home countries. As such, the anthology was localized in a way that saw Batman touch down in North America, France, Spain, Italy, Germany, the Czech Republic, Russia,

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In brief Turkey, Mexico, Brazil, China, Korea, Japan and… Poland. Taking place in Warsaw, the hero’s Polish foray was realized by a team composed of Tomasz Kołodziejczak (writer), Piotr Kowalski (illustrator) and Brad Simpson (colors). Summarizing the plot, Tomasz Gardziński of Spider’s Web magazine wrote: “Batman arrives to Warsaw to discover that crime is incredibly low thanks to a technology developed by Warsaw Tech. He decides to invest in this and bring it to Gotham City.” Not all goes to plan, however, and to do so Bruce Wayne must first strive to convince Warsaw Tech’s CEO to release her secrets – cue ensuing heroics. Though meeting generally mixed reviews, the Warsaw installment has won high praise for its presentation of the city. Writing for Batman News, Matina Newsom gushed: “Piotr Kowalski’s work on the art is gorgeous, especially the city scenes. Night or day, any time we get a visual look at Warsaw the whole thing is full of life.

CITY

Green Scene

Dedicated to inventors, a new park is to be constructed in Warsaw’s dormitory suburb…

rsynów, it would seem, just can’t keep out of the news. In the throes of beautification, Warsaw’s southernmost district is to see one more of its parks given a generous cosmetic touch-up before being rechristened Park Polskich Wynalazców. Named to honor Poland’s inventors, and slated for a 2022 completion date, the works will seek to preserve the existing natural balance whilst adding

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

a ‘natural playground’, wooden viewing terraces, fluorescent stairs, a square with a spirograph, a meeting place in-filled with giant blocks and a 12-meter long tube slide. In a nod to Poland’s bestknown boffins, an avenue of trees will also be planted, each featuring a plaque that will commemorate an inventor. Costing approximately PLN 4.2 million, the recently revealed renderings have left locals watering at the mouth.

REAL ESTATE

Opening Time!

PHOTOGRAPHS THIS PAGE BY ALEX WEBBER, OPPOSITE PAGE PRESS MATERIAL

After years of hype, Wola’s Browary Warszawskie has finally opened to fanfare and acclaim…

Background Knowledge Founded in 1846 as the Haberbusch and Schiele brewery, when it opened it became one of 40 breweries operating in the city and the largest in the entire Kingdom of Poland. In fact, it was still working right up until the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising. Nationalized after the war, this complex resumed beer production in 1954 and even rolled out Poland’s first bottles of licensed Coca Cola in 1972. But that’s not to say this post-war chapter was glorious. For years after the war had ended, its environs became known as ‘the wild west’ with the surrounding ruined streets becoming a lawless zone of murky, gangland intrigue. As for the brewery, that was liquidated in 2004 and for years after, what sat here was little more than an disintegrating plot in-filled with empty shells. Now Repurposed as a mixed-use development, seven years of work have seen it revived in spectacular fashion and in-filled with swanky offices and apartments as well as a range of retail and leisure options. But neither has the past been forgotten – along with the sensitive retention and refit of original properties and elements such as the Villa Schiele, the Browary area has blossomed anew with features such as the vaulted brick cellars turned over to house a food hall. Awash with food and drink options that include, among others, a sports bar and restaurant owned by Robert Lewandowski, as well as a three-floor brewpub, it’s a place that’s as ambitious as it is aspirational. You could walk here for hours, and doing so reveals a compelling mix of sights: artsy installations, Warsaw’s most colorful stairwell, water features and rich architectural contrasts. More than just another post-industrial development, it’s a place Warsaw can be proud of – even Poland. International in its spirit, but proudly local in its history, you leave with the impression of a complex that’s already been absorbed into the very urban fabric of the area around.

Browary Warszawskie browarywarszawskie.com.pl

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Feature The Mayor has gone on record to say he wants to transform Warsaw into “a city in which people enjoy living in and want to live in”. How has he sought to achieve this? Quality of life – both on a neighborhood scale and a wider city scale – is the key to this. In both cases, it depends on easy access to good public spaces and greenery, to the workplace and to public services. Our long-term plan though is tied up in our ‘new study’ of Warsaw which consists of a new spatial constitution which will look to create a locally-focused, healthy and dynamic city. Step-by-step, we’re seeking to improve ‘satisfaction with life’.

Michał Olszewski, Vice-President of Warsaw, talks about the city’s vision for a revamped city center…

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

So how do you make that happen? We need to deal with previously identified problems – for instance, people feel uncomfortable walking around the center. As it stands, our research shows that people consider it an archipelago of islands that are poorly connected to each other. The bicycle infrastructure is also poor. Finally, these islands are blisteringly hot in the summer, smoggy in the winter

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A NEW HEART FOR WARSAW

The reshaping of the city center stands to be the defining achievement of the current leadership – could you tell us more what it actually entails? Our analysis demonstrates that less and less young people are choosing to live in the center which has created a ‘donut effect’ – that’s far from ideal as the center has numerous public services such as schools, parks and lots of places for work and recreation. With that in mind, we don’t want it to be just a ‘salon’ but rather a place in which people want to live and spend time on a daily basis.

“If we want the center to be livable, we simply have to implement a number of changes as part of the creation of a New Center for the city” and noisy and thick with traffic all year round. If we want the center to be livable, we simply have to implement a number of changes as part of the creation of a New Center for the city. This is not a revolution we’re talking about, but an evolution. What does evolution mean for residents? What we already know is that more greenery will mean better air quality, more shade and cooler air. Calming the traffic, meanwhile, will encourage more pedestrians and cyclists who will naturally be drawn to spending more time in this quieter, greener environment. Further, by encouraging people to walk around the city center, local business is expected to flourish. We need to remember that people are drawn to places that do not have heavy traffic – this isn’t just Warsaw we’re talking about, but the world over. When you’re in a car or stuck in a traffic jam you’re not going to get out to visit a store or grab a coffee. The New

Center of Warsaw project will realize the goals already being reached by other European cities and will promote its heart. Is there a danger of gentrification? Gentrification is sometimes used as a patch – people apply it to any changes they want to criticize. Through this, it becomes a distortion and manipulation. We must remember that any change to the city will cause gentrification. The city can only control it, and that’s exactly what we do. We try to support the creativity of entrepreneurs and run programs in which they willingly participate. Their products are often export goods which we in turn promote at international fairs. It appears that the biggest blow for Polish cities was the creation of shopping centers within downtown areas. Unfortunately, Warsaw did not escape this process – today though, we’re thinking differently and supporting local business. As mentioned previously, by making streets more

walkable and improving their infrastructure, people naturally are more inclined to explore, walk with greater frequency and – as a result – spend their money in the places that they pass. Public space is another burning issue and many people have voiced discontent at the number of car parks in squares such as Bankowy, Defilad and Teatralny. Changes are afoot, but what else needs to change? The reconstruction of Pl. Defilad or Pl. Piec Rogow has shown the direction in which public space should change. Squares in the city, especially in its center, cannot be used only as parking lots and road junctions. Unfortunately, many squares are still dominated by cars. We want to change this gradually. Plac Powstańców Warszawy a few years ago ceased to be a car park, and an underground garage will soon be built under it. There will, therefore, be room for high-quality public space on the surface.

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Feature

Turn It On! 8

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

With Warsaw enjoying a new age of neon, no place has done it better than Elektrownia Powiśle…

elements to create beautiful interiors without losing its character,” he continues. “Neons were a perfect match for the post-industrial architecture and they sit beautifully among the brick walls and steel structures.” Produced by some of the top artisans in the around, and using the same traditional technologies as in the past, these signs have lent a distinct spirit to the facility and that holds especially true in the Food Hall – with every unit illuminated with its own distinct signage, the resulting glimmer triggers memories of Asia’s busy food markets whilst simultaneously riffing on Warsaw’s own heritage. “Placing neons in Elektrownia was a great way to re-energize the space,” adds Domański. “Apart from signposting the zones in Elektrownia and helping people quickly recognize the Food Hall and Beauty Hall concepts, they add character to our interiors and create a unique atmosphere.” Taken together, the effect is glorious and stimulating in every possible sense – moreover, the shimmering electricity feeds straight into the history of not just this former electricity plant, but the capital’s own contemporary timeline. Though neon had existed in some form or other

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

hen Elektrownia Powiśle opened in 2020, the headlines forked off in every direction possible: the food, the stores, the architecture and the vibe. But for all that, few if any picked up on the secret, subliminal ingredient that made it such a joy. More than just pleasing eye candy, the project’s galaxy of neons united as one to act as the ultimate mood enhancer and an attraction in their own standalone right. Reflecting the development’s dynamic sense of energy, you would doubt that anywhere in Poland boasts a higher ratio of neon per square meter – not even Warsaw’s acclaimed Neon Museum. “Neons have and always will be a trademark of Warsaw,” says Dariusz Domański, Partner at White Star Real Estate, the project’s developer. “As Elektrownia is deeply rooted in the city’s history, we wanted to cultivate its traditions. When we started the whole revitalization process we worked relentlessly to maintain as many of the original details as possible.” “We also managed to reclaim many original

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previously, it was only after WWI that it truly swept the world. Embraced by cities such as New York and Chicago, it came to be as symbolic of the Jazz Age as Lindbergh and Lempicka. Quickly making inroads into Europe, it wasn’t long before Europe’s major cities were dazzling their residents with their luminous adverts. Following closely in the footsteps of Berlin, Paris and London, the Polish capital revealed its own first neon in 1926 (a beer bottle modestly emblazoned with the word ‘Porter’), and soon others followed – the same year, for instance, Jan Wedel (Poland’s own Willy Wonka), commissioned Leonetto Capiello to design a sign for his chocolate emporium. Regarded as ‘the father of modern advertising’, the Italian’s sign featured a boy on a zebra and became an attraction in itself. Neon flourished in this time, but it was until after WWII that it became so synonymous with Warsaw. Playing an underpinning role in the government’s plan to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war confidently gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading artisans of the time. Often supremely creative, these stunning illumina-

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

tions were to become intrinsic features of Poland’s nightscape for decades, only waning in favor after the political transformation of 1989. With banana republic capitalism the order of the day, they were seen as unfashionable reminders of a bygone time and phased out by cheap billboards and other blunter forms of advertising. It wasn’t till well inside the new millennium that a few private initiatives were undertaken to rescue and restore some of the city’s better-known signs; a domino effect was set into motion, and in 2012 it led to the creation of the city’s Neon Museum, a project initiated by a Polish-British couple that had played a key role in salvaging many of Warsaw’s forgotten signs. The touchpaper had been lit. Gradually at first, the city’s independent business owners reembraced neon anew – to many, just having such a sign became a stamp of cool. It’s at Elektrownia Powiśle, however, where this neon resurgence has reached its zenith. “I’d especially recommend that lovers of retro-style neon head to the Food Hall where they’ll be blown away by their abundance,” says Natalia Blinowska, Head of Graphic Design at White Star Real Estate. “It’s here you find the most eye-catching

ones, including one of my favorites – a shrimp waggling its tails and a blood-dripping knife.” “And if you’re looking for something to add to your Instagram feed, then the rainbow-colored neon Level -1 is the perfect background. Finally, why not boost your self-esteem by heading to the Beauty Hall and snapping yourself next to ‘self-love’ quotes with messages such as Hello Beauty, You’re Beautiful and All Eyes On Me.” Imparting a unique sense of collective personality, the neons of Elektrownia Powiśle have captured the zeitgeist in a staggering demonstration of artistry and craftmanship. Viewing the kaleidoscope colors, one feels the spirit of Warsaw channeled right through them: a city of vivid creativity and bold individualism. And yes, beautiful as well. “There is something very special about this century-old technology,” concludes Blinowska. “It evokes a certain sense of nostalgia and never fails to draw the eye.” Those that visit would immediately concur. Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com / whitestar-realestate.com

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Feature

Silent Witness C

ontrasted against the fervid, flare-wielding antics that traditionally mark the anniversary of the outbreak of the Warsaw Uprising on August 1st, events remembering the capitulation on October 2nd follow a far more dignified and solemn route. Rather than something to celebrate, many see it as the date that Warsaw’s death warrant was signed. Brutalized as the city was after 63-days of intense street-to-street fighting, it was about to

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

As Warsaw pauses to remember the end of the 1944 Uprising, join us for a look at the trees that tell their own sad story…

get a whole lot worse with the local population forced into exile. In the months that followed, much of what remained of the city was methodically demolished in one last act of Nazi spite. But not everything was levelled. Scars remain – most copiously on the walls in the form of bullet holes that pit the buildings that survived. Less obvious, however, are the trees that made it through the war. Now, thanks to the efforts of the Korzenie Miasta website, there story too is now being heard…

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

SASKI GARDENS (above left)

Principally protected by young infantry units, the Germans held a string of fortified positions around Saski Gardens. A reflection of the area’s significance, it was around here – and inside Saski Palace – that the Germans had several of their key administrative offices. Though Saski was never captured by the insurgents, the Polish Home Army held nearby Krolewska street and it was on a white chestnut tree that a container dropped by an RAF supply flight became entangled in the branches. After protracted negotiations between the German and Polish sides, the Poles were allowed to retrieve it during one of the ceasefires. To their disappointment, though, it contained only ammunition that was largely useless to them. Sadly, the tree was to become one of the few features of the area that saw peace. The palace, an iconic

symbol of Polish independence was dynamited in December, just weeks before the city was finally liberated.

ZAMOYSKI PALACE (above right)

Sitting behind the French-style Zamoyski Palace at the very bottom of Foksal stands a Ginkgo biloba, a tree native to China. Now a quiet stretch of parkland, in the pre-war years this plot was better known as ul. Pierackiego. Home to a field hospital treating wounded Poles, the Germans unleashed a heavy barrage when they saw the Home Army retreating. Using heavily flammable mortar shells, the patients stood little chance of escaping – it’s said that the nuns caring for them threw mattresses from the window so that the injured could jump from the floors above. Only a few made it out. Looking sad and gnarled, this tree saw the tragedy fully unfold.

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KORCZAK’S OAK (above left)

Known as Korczak’s Oak due to its proximity to the pre-war Jewish orphanage run by the esteemed pedagogue Dr. Janusz Korczak, it was by the tree found at Jaktorowska 8 that scores of civilians were shot in one of the worst outrages of the Uprising. Falling in the bracket of the Wola Massacre, an unhinged bloodlust which saw up to 90,000 Varsovians murdered by Oskar Direlwanger’s brigade over a oneweek period, the tree became one of the many execution spots used in the area. Korczak’s fate had been no less grim. Though offered the chance to escape to the Aryan side of the city, the educator chose to stay with the children that were in his care and accompanied them to Treblinka where he perished in the gas chambers. According to eyewitness accounts, Korczak had kept their spirits up to the end,

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

telling them they were off to the countryside on a daytrip as they made their way singing to the Umschlagplatz transit point.

MINISTRY OF FINANCE (above right) For over a month Traugutta street became the scene of heavy combat – notoriously, on August 4th, 1944, the Germans resorted to using civilians as human shields tied to their tanks as they attempted to storm Polish positions on ul. Czackiego. The tree standing in the courtyard of what is now the Ministry of Finance bore witness to these bloody events, as well as subsequent battles for the Holy Cross Church whose tower had been commandeered by German snipers. SKARYSZEWSKI PARK (opposite page)

The lime trees lining Skaryszewski’s shaded av-

PHOTOGRAPHS TIHS PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA, OPPOSITE SHUTTERSTOCK

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enues also witnessed history when, during the night of August 13th and 14th, a British Liberator plane was shot down whilst dropping supplies to Polish ground forces. Crashing no the shores of Kamionowskie Lake, only one airman survived: Sergeant Henry Lloyd Lyne. “I didn’t have a clue what happened until the mid-1980s when I was invited back to Poland for an official ceremony,” Lyne later told the BBC. “All I know is that I woke up to the sound of water all around me. Sometime after that, I was aware of being lifted into a boat and of voices speaking a language I didn’t understand. I had fallen out of the sky and onto a small muddy island in the middle of a lake.” Nowadays, a commemorative boulder sits in Skaryszewski marking the event and honoring those who died. Unveiled by Margaret Thatcher, Lyne too was present at the ceremony.

The lime trees lining Skaryszewski’s shaded avenues also witnessed history when, during the night of August 13th and 14th, a British Liberator plane was shot down whilst dropping supplies to Polish ground forces

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FALL IN LOVE WITH THE AUTUMN LOOK

Blink and you’ll miss it! Brief as it might be, no other season captures the full beauty of Poland in the same way as autumn – at Designer Outlet Warszawa, recharge your wardrobe in a way that’s as subtle and stylish as October itself… PHOTOGRAPHER: PIOTR NAREWSKI STYLIST: AGATA KLEPACKA

Shirt by Marella / Made in M zł. 892 now zł. 619 Trousers by Manila Grace zł. 690 now zł. 419 Shirt by Pinko zł. 1,850 now zł. 1,220 Watch by Certina / Hour Passion zł. 2,490 now zł. 1,750

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Top by Manila Grace zł. 748 now zł. 449 Watch by Calvin Klein / Hour Passion zł. 1,169 now zł. 500 Glasses by Chloe / Outly zł. 1,081 now zł. 649

CAFÉ COUTURE

As days get shorter, make the most of the golden autumn by soaking in the vibe of your favorite pavement terrace. But remember, doing so doesn’t just mean people watching – but also people watching you!

Shirt by Marella / Made in M zł. 919 now zł. 639 Handbag by Manila Grace zł. 621 now zł. 379 Bracelets by Calvin Klein / Hour Passion grey (zł. 399 now zł. 200 steel zł. 469 now zł. 200 Watch by Certina / Hour Passion zł. 3,490 now zł. 2,450

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Dress by Manila Grace zł. 1,058 now zł. 639 Sweater by Trussardi zł. 509 now zł. 131.60 Glasses by Tom Ford / Outly zł. 1,114 now zł. 669 Ring by Calvin Klein / Hour Passion zł. 299 now zł. 100

LASTING IMPRESSIONS

Create lingering impressions by choosing a look that reflects the season’s rich smoldering colors. And don’t forget, summer might be out but shades are always in!

Top by Trussardi zł. 539 now zł. 359 Cardigan by Trussardi zł. 539 now zł. 359 Glasses by Chloe / Outly zł. 1,081 now zł. 649

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

OPENING GAMBIT

Shield yourself from the crisp morning chill with a stylish overcoat or capture the warm glowing hues of autumn with a chic outsized suit that emphasizes your confident personality.

Coat by MaxMara / Made in M zł. 3,719 now zł. 2,609 Shoes by Manila Grace zł. 644 now zł. 389 Bag by Manila Grace zł. 736 now zł. 449 Sweater by MaxMara / Made in M zł. 1,329 now zł. 939

Jacket by Pinko zł. 1,520 now zł. 1,005 Trousers by Pinko zł. 860 now zł. 570 Bag by Trussardi zł. 893 now zł. 499 Top by Liu Jo zł. 399 now zł. 200 Ring by Calvin Klein / Hour Passion zł. 299 now zł. 100

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GAME OF DRONES! So, you wanna’ be a drone photographer? Join us as we catch up with three photographers whose bird’s eye images have captivated the country…

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Jasiek Zoll

@mr_fly_guy_one What’s the magic of drones? Magic happens when you reach the stars, and with a drone the stars become closer! What are the mistakes you see beginners make? Drones can do a lot, but many

people overestimate them and don’t practice enough – that means at critical moments they panic and make a mistake. You need to practice, practice, practice. What should novices keep in mind? People assume drones can fly anywhere and at any time but

there’s a lot of considerations that need to be made: you need to think of appropriate zones, permits, wind, temperatures, etc. Any catastrophes? I’ve crashed three drones and broken so many wings I can’t even count the number I’ve damaged.

How much planning do you do? Seeing something interesting from a normal perspective is enough to get my brain working and asking how it would look from above. You can wait hours for the weather to clear or an object to turn up, but otherwise a shoot can go like clockwork and it’s job done.

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Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Konrad Kotowski @podniebny_kot

How did you fall in love with drone photography? I’ve always been interested in photography but never really had the courage to share my work. Things changed when I got bored during the pandemic – it was then I bought a drone and figured I might as well share my work with others. How hard was it to learn to fly a drone? I’d recommend doing what I did which is to train a little in non-urbanized areas. You need to feel comfortable with how your drone behaves and responds. The better you know your gear the more spectacular your shots will be. We’re guessing this is all quite expensive? Even the smallest ‘toys’ can cost two to three thousand zlotys. Semi-professional gear will set you back five to ten thousand, whilst the professional stuff can cost you as much as 30k! Any heartbreaking crashes? I was filming a car advert and wanted to get a close shot whilst flying under an arched bridge – yep, I hit it. Fortunately the drone didn’t turn into a broken pile of plastic but it does have a bruise on its backside! warsawinsider.pl

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Sebastian Przybysz @shot.empire

What misconceptions would you like to see dispelled? Many people treat drones like toys – but the truth is, before you fly you really need to learn how to operate it. You assume a responsibility for safety when you get a drone. Are they easy to fly? They’re really quite simple – not too different from a video game. For me, the hardest part was getting to grips with the aviation regulations. And even if you know them inside out, you still need to keep upto-date with any changes or amendments. How do you plan your shoots? I’m always on the lookout for new places which is why when I travel I’ve always got the drone in my backpack! What does a shoot involve? Flying the drone is only about 50% of it all. Before, there’s all the planning and chasing permits,. Then, after a shoot, there’s all the processing that needs to be done. What do you love about photographing in autumn? The warmth of the colors – but in truth, everything looks better from above no matter what time of year it is!

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

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Nobody Sleeps In The Woods Tonight In the forests of Otwock, an abandoned sanatorium promises a Halloween to remember… BY ALEX WEBBER

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

he date is October 12th, 2015. Months after first receiving a mysterious package in the mail, John-Erik ‘Johny’ Krahbichler, founding editor of the Swedish tech blog GadgetZZ, makes the contents of the DVD tucked inside public. Immediately, it enthralls the internet community. Stamped with a Warsaw postmark, the blackand-white video centers around a cloaked plague doctor who appears to send a morse code message. In the background, discordant noise plays over and over. Unsettling to the extreme, it prompts instant speculation. What is it? Some theorize it to be a message from a serial killer. Others, a warning from a bio-terrorist organization. Maybe, ponder other sleuths, it’s the work of a time traveler. Swiftly dubbed ‘the scariest video in the world’, the world was baffled until an American based in Poland stepped forward to claim it as his work. Giving his name as Parker Warner Wright, the American then offered a slew of evidence to validate his claim. For some, the mystery had been solved. Not everyone was satisfied, however, and to this day theories abound as to the video’s origins and copious subliminal messages.

What is known for certain is where the video was shot – Zofiówka, an abandoned sanatorium hidden in the thick pine forests of Otwock. An apt location for such a disturbing video, Zofiówka looms out of the undergrowth with a certain air of menace. Accessed via potholed forest roads that turn into muddy, dirt tracks, just the sight of it triggers an unsettling reaction. And rightfully so. Founded in 1908 and bankrolled by the charitable donations of Zofia Endelman, ‘Zofiówka’ initially functioned as a sanatorium for Jews with nervous and psychiatric conditions. Celebrated as a modern institution at the time, it embraced techniques such as electroshock therapy and other pioneering treatments that we now see as crude. But if that sounds a little sinister, history would prove crueler. Once the Nazi occupation began, Zofiówka passed into the control of Dr. Walbuma Jost and it was under his charge that it served as the only Jewish mental health institute in the country. Cases of starvation and disease were reported with frequency and a nadir was reached on August 19th, 1942, when the hospital was cleared as part of an action to liquidate the Otwock Ghetto. In the ensuing

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Feature “A nun working at the hospital was discharged with schizophrenia and hung herself a few weeks after” chaos, up to 140 patients were shot outside, among them Adela Tuwim, mother of author Julian. The remaining Jews were transported to the gas chambers of Treblinka. The night previous, it’s said that scores of patients killed themselves after word of their fate was leaked. Still, Zofiówka’s descent into nightmare continued. Over the next couple of years Aryan-looking Polish children were shipped here to be ‘reeducated’ and ‘Germanized’. With Poland left broken and destroyed by the war, peacetime meant that authorities had little choice but to use any and all surviving infrastructure. Rather than demolish Zofiówka, it instead filled a new role as a tuberculosis clinic, and later as a sanatorium for recovering addicts. It wasn’t long, though, till workers and patients began reporting creepy goings on. “A nun working at the hospital was discharged with schizophrenia and hung herself a few weeks after,” says paranormal researcher Michał Mizura. After that, a chain of events unfolded that went beyond comprehension. “Paintings hanging on the walls were moving around, night watchmen were too scared to work alone.” Eventually abandoned in the 90s, Zofiówka has since been seized by nature and its core swallowed by dense vegetation and the passage of time. Open for exploration, it is one of the most remarkable phantoms to be found in Poland – an eerie maze of damp, dank chambers all of which have been generously redecorated with often ominous graffiti. Filled with broken masonry, shards of glass and rotted wooden panels, its warren of rooms and corridors suck you deep into the building’s complex soul. Beautiful and beguiling yet also eerie and unearthly, you walk here silent in awe – far away, only the distant drip of water breaks the strange sense of quiet.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

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Feature

For The RECORD

Head to these cult store for your vinyl solutions…

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Antykwariat Na Tamce

Tamka 45B, fb.com/antykwariatnatamce

VINYL GUARDIAN

Janek Przybyłowski of Winyle by Retro Elektro talks us through his love of vinyl…

Specializing in rarities and unknown gems, the shop’s layout has changed to carry even more records than before. Listening Station: Yes, but bring your own earphones unless you don’t mind imparting your tastes on the other punters. Ratio old to new: 75/25 English-speaking: Yes Genres: All bases covered but rock is the most prevalent. From folk to hard rock with some pop and jazz mixed in. Extras: Besides vinyl they also carry tapes, CDs and as well as books.

Antykwariat "Płyty Gramofonowe" PHOTOGRAPH OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN MCCUTCHEON/UNSPLASH, ALL OTHERS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Ząbkowska 11, plytygramofonowe.pl

A staple part of any ‘weekend in Praga’ schedule, the store’s trio of owners – Paweł, Krzysztof and Wojciech – are experts in their field and

often responsible for the vinyl events that happen around town. Listening Station: Yes Ratio old to new: 50/50 English-speaking: Yes Genres: Jazz, funk, soul and hip hop are the owners passion and it shows in the collection – but they know their clients like to rock it out as well. Extras: Besides vinyl they also

carry tapes and CDs.

Asfalt Winyle i Wino Mysia 3, asfaltshop.pl

Why vinyl? For me there are three basic reasons why I love it: first, better quality of sound; secondly, the album becomes a piece of art that you can admire in your hands; and thirdly, it’s a direct way to support the artist. What’s the quintessential album every vinyl lover needs to have! Kinda’ Blue by Mile Davis. It’s something that really resonates well with vinyl. It almost feels like the very reason that vinyl was invented!

Where do your music tastes lie – any examples? Right now I’m listening to Steve Reich, Music for the 18 Musicians – I love how raw and intense it is. I’ve also been giving time to My Bloody Valentine’s Loveless because of how compressed and well-produced it is. Lastly, I’ve also been enjoying Charli Xcx, Charli, because of the catchy hooks. Any tips for collecting vinyl? Yes: support your local record shop!

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Feature Previous located on Tamka, find them in super-cool new digs in Mysia 3. Sharing half of the second floor with Leica, Asfalt are known also for producing Polski artists such as O.S.T.R., The Jonesz, Patr00, Ortega Cartel and Taco Hemingway. Listening Station: No Ratio old to new: Only new English-speaking: Depends on who is working on that day Genres: Electronic, House, Techno, Polish artists, Hip hop, funk, soul and indie rock. Bonus: Wine! Asfalt’s old location has turned into a wine bar called Winem Powiśle and their shop on Mysia also sells bottles to bring home to sip and listen to your new waxy purchases.

their trusted source for black magic. Listening Station: Yes Ratio old to new: 80/20 English-speaking: Tak Genres: Mostly assortments of rock, jazz and electronic but with generous sprinklings of disco, hip hop, Funk and R&B.

Hey Joe

ul. Złota 8, facebook.com/sklepHeyJoe/

Owner Krzysztof Nieporęcki started selling vinyl in Warsaw in the 90s and watching him is like witnessing a vinyl wizard: stand in awe as he pulls records from the shelves to tell their story whilst simultaneously

letting you know why what you this is good actually isn’t – before suggesting something even better. Listening Station: Yes, but if you want to listen by yourself, bring your own headphones Ratio old to new: 85/15 English-speaking: Yes Genres: all genres, but mostly rock, jazz and pop. Extras: 7 inches, VHS tapes, DVDs, and some books about music.

Muzant

Warecka 4/6, muzant.pl

This courtyard basement takes you back in time with walls sheathed in old radios and musical ephemera. Reasonable

Black Market Coffee & Records

Dzika 17, blackmarket.waw.pl

Black Market owner Bartek can be found DJing in bars and clubs around Warsaw – just looking at his FB you’ll learn that the city’s ‘slebs use him as

Vinyl Market

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

CALL HIM KING VINYL

So the internet killed the CD store? In a way, but at the same time I think the web has helped vinyl collectors – nowadays, we can pre-listen to a record and decide if we want to buy it. In the past we’d be tracking down friends who might own it so we could listen to it, but that’s no longer the case.

In a league of his own, the Insider swings by for a chat with Hey Joe’s legendary proprietor Krzysztof Nieporęcki…

Have your customers changed over the years? About 10% of the population collects one thing or other, and I don’t think anything has really changed when it comes to my vinyl customers – maybe they’ve got a bit more disposable income with which to buy records. What would you show a newbie visiting your store for the first time? I’ve got something I think of as the holy grail as it’s so rate! It’s the self-titled Smiths album – it’s an original first pressing from Rough Trade records complete with taped notes on the label with instructions for the Polish distributor, Tonpress. The actual labels were printed in Russia.

What’s changed on the vinyl market in the last decade or so? Not much if I’m honest, apart from the fact that people have lost total interest in CDs. Vinyl records though have gained in popularity. I’m guessing music subscription services have a lot to answer for where these trends are concerned.

Any other treasures? We’ve got some amazing covers here such as discofoon label records that have amazing graphic designs and a blue vinyl, Somnolence, by 52 Hertz. You need to have it in your collection just because it’s so beautiful! And something to cheer us up? I’ve got some bizarre things that are great fun to own: a German 1980s Beatles revival cover band, or The Royal Edinburgh Military Tattoo accompanied featuring pictures of the mascots!

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Feature prices and some real gems to be found. Listening Station: Yes. Ratio old to new: 95/5 English-speaking: basic Genres: Most of the treasures fall into categories of rock, jazz, new wave, punk, reggae and classical. Extras: CD, DVDs and Blue Rays with new merchandise coming in weekly.

Side One

Chmielna 21, sideone.pl

This Chmielna hero specializes in aiding DJs beef up their record bags with essential staples and new releases. Listening Station: Yes Ratio old to new: Only New

English-speaking: Yes Genres: Electronic, jazz, and punk. Extras: Tapes, CDs and vinyl system accessories.

Winyle Records by Retro Elektro Tamka 34, retroelektro.pl

A hand-picked selection of artists you need to know and need to own! The store also carries a motherlode of equipment to pimp our your sound system or to get started from scratch. Listening Station: Yes Ratio old to new: 30/70 English-speaking: Yes Genres: Eclectic mix of all genres.

Winyl Market

Piękna 3/2, winylmarket.com

Maciek knows his vinyl and most of what you find he is worth investing in. Check out their website to keep up with the new releases. Listening Station: Yes Ratio old to new: 30/70 English-speaking: Yes Genres: Jazz, Polish jazz, funk, soul, disco, hip-hop, psychedelic, progressive rock, hard & heavy, electronic (older and new artists). Extras: 7-inches, tapes, mix tapes and CDs.

Vinyl Tamka

Chmielna 20, vinyltamka.pl

Originally found on Tamka, they’ve changed location but not their name. Looking almost daunting as you peer through the door, the main space is loaded with all things 60s and 70s and isn’t short in 80s rock. Listening Station: Yes Ratio old to new: 99/1 English-speaking: Very little Genres: Mostly rock with some

jazz and pop.

Antykwariat Gramofonowe

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

the vintage sound. Your choices run the gamut… Tube amplifiers, transistor receivers, phonographs, turntables, floor-standing loudspeakers, bookshelf monitors – you name it. Around two-years ago, our appetite for discovering new possibilities led us to experiment with combining the new and the old. Through a bit of playing around we created in-house tube amplifiers stamped with the Retro Elektro logo and Polish Unitra turntables embedded in a new stone chassis.

THE SOUND OF MUSIC

Retro Elektro’s gear head Dymitr Sokolik discusses the right stuff for the right sound… Your equipment has a real retro flair – what goes into the pieces you sell? We try to choose only the best vintage audio equipment and whilst we’re a young company our passion for music has a far longer history. Music is Retro Elektro’s lifeblood, so we’re always searching for things that will give the perfect sound. Any favorite brands? We’ve got various bits and pieces from the golden era of audio development so

you’ll mostly find equipment produced by Dual, Grundig, Celestion and Tandberg. Moreover, we’ve got individual turntables and receivers from Sony, Schneider, Nordmende, Panasonic, Saba and others. Our goal is to show that ‘old’ gramophones, amplifiers, tuners and loudspeakers have a soul and, despite the passage of time, they can still compete with new things on the market. Actually, most of the time our clients tell us that they can hear the difference and prefer

For vinyl newcomers, what kind of equipment would you recommend? For those who are just starting their adventure with vintage audio, we always recommend something in the mid-range price bracket. Needs vary from customer-to-customer, and of course are impacted by budget, however, it’s always wise to buy combo studio equipment – a turntable with an already built-in amplifier. That means you only need to connect the loudspeakers to the equipment and you’ve got your perfect listening set. These combos save space and easy-to-use. Any other options? Build your own audio empire by purchasing a free-standing deck and a suitable amplifier. Over time, individual elements can be replaced by those with greater power and greater possibilities. However, that does require a bit of knowledge.

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Feature Pardon To Tu

Al. Armii Ludowej 14, pardontotu.pl

SIP DOWN & LISTEN

Away from Warsaw’s wealth of specialist vinyl stores, combine your love of wax with something a little liquid…

We’ll still always remember them as our favorite Bohemian dive on Pl. Grzybowski. Despite the upgrade in surroundings, they’ve retained the leftfield spirit of old thanks to flexi hours (pre-Covid), a commitment to obscure sounds, and a well-spaced interior that references their former venue through its decadent color scheme and wall of favored musicians. The air of friendly, unforced cool is unmatched in the city and its all helped along by supremely helpful staff and a drinks choice that includes several craft brews. Music has always formed the heart of PTT though, and their website keeps an updated list of available LPs. Every bit as diverse as the crowd that drinks inside here, these include everything from original Stones albums to Miles Davis and Mozart. But aside from the big A-list musicians, it’s the stranger sounds that they excel at presenting.

Hałas Vinyl + Coffee

ul. Elsterska 10, halas.cafe

Hałas is that brilliant little secret that every neighborhood deserves: a cool little café snuck down a leafy residential street – amid the vinyl albums for sale, find a crew of staunch regulars arriving for weird non-alc. beers and specialty coffee brewed by a super friendly team inside an attractive basement comprised of crisp white walls and retro fittings. You want summer to return just to be able to sit on their outdoor bench and wallow in the shade. When it comes to sounds, find a lovingly curated smattering of albums displayed in the first room – Sonic Youth, John Coltrane, Bjork, Nirvana, etc. Whatever you choose, your cool points will increase.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Eat! First Bite Japonki Krochmalna 61, japonkisushi.pl

PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

ON A ROLL If you thought sushi had sailed on as a trend then think again. But whilst it gained new traction during the pandemic, for most it now takes something truly exceptional to prompt them to brush off their chopsticks. Japonki is that place. Operating as a takeaway service and store, the sushi here has breathed new life into a sector that had started to look tired. Not skimping on the fish, find Warsaw rarities such as bluefin tuna on the menu. Offering 13 sets that begin at zl. 59, they use only certified farmed fish as well as short-grain rice fused with Japanese vinegars. Such has been the hype, it’s not uncommon to find food running short as the day progresses. The brainchild of Linh Nguyen, her previous concepts such as Koreanka and Vietnamka

have revolutionized the city’s Asian offer – now, Japonki looks to do the same. In Store Filling a second function as a store, find homemade kimchi, fresh tofu, crackers, packet noodles and a fridge fill of fish. Aside from foodstuffs, come here also to stock up on ceramic pottery, Kanji ink brushes and other bits and pieces. Facing Opposite Opened just as we went to press, visit their sit-down restaurant across the street (named Japonka) for what looks likely to set a whole new standard when it comes to Japanese cuisine. Full review coming soon!

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PHOTOGRAPHS BY KEVIN DEMARIA

Review

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Peaches Gastro Girls ul. Mokotowska 58, facebook.com/peachesgastrogirls Mon-Wed: closed, Wed-Sat: 6:00pm-00:00pm, Sun: 1:00pm-2:00pm

THE TEACHES OF PEACHES Far-flung flavors receive a convincing vegan makeover…

PRIMER

Cooped up under lockdown, flat mates Monika Mazurek and Klaudia Górak longed to get away. But unlike most of us who didn’t move from the sofa, they got proactive and brought the world to their kitchen. Scouring the web for exotic recipes from far-flung places the pair began experimenting and veganizing what they found. Growing in confidence, it wasn’t long until they were sharing their creations with friends as tasty souvenirs of their culinary adventures. Riding on the positive feedback, the duo decided to make an extra buck by making their food public and sending it for delivery. Presto, at the end of 2020 Peaches Gastro Girls was born.

WHERE?

As delivery orders stacked up, the gastro girls took the next step and

set up shop in the restaurant space of Klub Spatif. Opening properly once restaurants were allowed to reboot in May, an outdoor area was set up in the courtyard patio. Playing in tandem with Spatif’s cool vibe, visitors are free to order drinks at the bar before taking in the jazzy vibe. Our suggestions: a Peach champagne (Champagne, peach aperitif, amaretto) or the Lavender Collins (Chivas whisky, white vermouth, almond, lavender).

IN THE KITCHEN

Not only is their kitchen all female, they’ve now sourced some international talent from Peru and India. Ignoring proteins like tempeh, soy or seitan, instead these kitchen heroes conjure magic from seasonal veggies whilst whipping out some Beyond Meat to give oomph to their wontons. The menu changes with the seasons, but for certain we’re hoping their tacos stay for good – substituting meat with oyster mushrooms, their carnitas taste as authentic as they come.

INSIDER TIP

While they take reservations on mojstolik.pl, do not get discouraged if there aren't any left; provided there’s space, walk-ins are welcome.

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Review

cheesy meal, rather than the snack-like kanapka that’s familiar to Poles. Gotcha’. So anyway, what’s all the fuss about the cheesesteak? If it’s done right it’s absolutely delicious. You need good ribeye and a nice oozy cheese. Moreover, it’s popularity is rooted in its simplicity. It’s not covered with loads of sauces or overwhelmed with veggies or weird stuff.

Join us for a seat with Alan Bohinski, the founding father of Philly’s Finest Cheesesteaks and Philly’s Famous Chicken…

o refer to Elektrownia Powiśle’s food hall as being just that would be to play with understatement. Offering a truly international experience inside a neon-lit, post-industrial interior, the choice leaves you staggered. But more than options, visitors are handed authenticity, a point driven home by the presence of chefs / operators such as Alan Bohinski. Offering a combo of maximum meaty juiciness and

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

drippy, cheesy goodness at his Philly’s Finest unit, we catch up with Poland’s king of cheesesteaks! WI: You became Poland’s first dedicated cheesesteak joint when you launched – has it been difficult introducing an entirely alien food to the city? AB: Yes! I think the first thing we had to do was to show that the cheesesteak was a sandwich in the American sense of the word: that is a hot, large, beefy,

So what goes into a typical cheesesteak… The basic building block is the beef (and it’s gotta’ be thinly-sliced ribeye), oozy melted cheese (and lots of it!), grilled onion and a nice sub roll. Who doesn’t love that formula of beef, cheese, onion and bread!? Easy! No! As they say in Philly, you’ve got to TTP (Trust The Process). You need to get have the right beef, the right cheese and the right bread. But on top of that, it’s not like flipping a burger – you need to really be involved in the cooking process – under or over-grill it by thirty seconds and you’ve messed it up.

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

THE FOOD OF BROTHERLY LOVE!

It’s a bit of a cult, right? Definitely! It helps that this sandwich has a real identity based on a specific city and geographical region. It’s hard enough to find a genuine Philly cheesesteak outside the East Coast of the US, and that alone has helped earn it a cult status in the US.

Philly’s Finest Cheesesteaks ul. Dobra 42 (Elektrwonia Powiśle), facebook.com/phillysfinestpl

For some, this is the best hangover remedy on the planet! But when do you find yourself reaching for a soul-restoring cheesesteak? Whenever I’m watching NFL or the Sixers – Philadelphians are mad about food, but they’re even crazier about their sports. Cheesesteak aside, you’ve also launched a unit next door dedicated to chicken… That’s right. It’s the true universal protein loved by everyone from toddlers to seniors. Importantly, it travels well and that really helps in this delivery age that we’ve entered. What’s your chicken secret? Like with the cheesesteak, it’s about keeping it simple: marinate and season everything well and then focus on authentic sauces like Buffalo. There’s no need to reinvent the wheel when it comes to chicken. American food is easy to come by in Poland – and Warsaw – but American chefs are a rarer sight. How important is that? If you’re living in Chicago and looking for pierogi you’re going to search out a place where there’s a Pole cooking. Same rules apply with American food. I grew up eating 10 cent wings every Monday, as well as other street foods like burgers, cheesesteaks, etc. The US excels at those so my cooking is always trying to recreate those tastes of my youth. We’re not about innovation, we’re all about replicating those tastes of South Philly or Shamokin. warsawinsider.pl

Review

LA DOLCE VITA

BACKSTORY Ask just about anyone in the food industry what the most important thing a restaurant should strive for and you’ll hear the same answer given in parrot-like fashion: consistency. Where that’s concerned The Ferment Group have hit gold ever since they first grabbed Warsaw by the goolies to give us Butchery & Wine in 2011. In the ten years that have followed, more concepts have been rolled-out, including and not limited to Kieliszki na Próżnej and the Insider’s reigning Restaurant of the Year, Rozbrat 20. Now along comes their latest offering, an Italian joint that seeks to show ‘the real Italy’. Employing chef Przemysław Samul to do so, his experience in some of Europe’s top kitchens is an early suggestion of the quality ahead.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

PHOTOGRAPHS KEVIN DEMARIA

Free from the cliches we’ve been drip-fed by Warsaw’s Italian restaurants, Le Braci offer a fresh insight into true Italian dining…

Le Braci Górnośląska 24, lebraci.pl.

HAVEN’T I BEEN HERE BEFORE? If you like food, yes. Prior to its rebirth as Le Braci, this address was home to one of the Ferment Group’s original babies: Brasserie Warszawska. Presenting itself as a Parisian-style brasserie, it was here that big shots would gather to lap up oysters or foie gras inside an interior heavy with mirrors, brass and leather. WHAT’S CHANGED? Everything. And we mean, everything. In place of the old-fashioned and slightly masculine style of its predecessor, Le Braci has a cool vitality that feels seductive and cliché-free. Designed by Kacper Gronkiewicz, you enter to be greeted by an installation featuring a tower of assorted ceramic waste before turning left into a long, narrow room decorated in rich and soothing forest shades. Evoking images of starry nights, the lighting casts a pleasing glow on a dining area whose statement piece is a beautifully backlit bar whose soft clay and teal colors are counterbalanced by jagged white shapes. Visually, you’ll love it. VIBE Having undertaken an interior revolution you get the idea that the Ferment Group have tried to move past the address’s previous reputation as a rather formal expense account haunt. But there’s no changing the location – positioned next to the

parliament building, and just a rattle away from Embassy Row, the afternoon clientele remain much the same: male, powerful and engaged in hushed conversations. It says much then for the professionalism of the staff that the Insider team, arriving in trainers and crumpled shirts, found themselves treated with the same diligence and attention given to other diners – it took minutes for initial paranoia to fade into enjoyment. DRINKS Speaking of enjoyment, that gathers pace the moment the drinks land. A masterfully fixed negroni is all that it should be: clean, bitter and big on zing. One more please! Of their other aperitivos, look for the Bellini and cherry Amaretto. It should go without saying that wine is taken seriously. ON THE PLATE For light lunches and dinners, the menu presents a series of cicchetti – small starter plates that introduce nibbly bits of Italy: ‘fennel and lemon jam’, ‘eggplant, zucchini and ricotta’, etc. Showcasing Italy’s sophisticated style as opposed to the simple side we tend to be shown in Warsaw, starters kick things off with carefully composed tuna tartare (zl. 46) before hitting new heights with the homemade pasta and risotto (zl. 54). It’s the latter we go for, a

“

The Ferment Group have started to really annoy me – they make perfect look so effortless and easy

creamy, thick porcini risotto with chestnuts. There’s a beauty to it that’s beaten only by the next dish, a beef fillet with raisins, pine nuts and shallots (zl. 96). Demolished with almost embarrassing gusto, it’s immediately installed as the Insider’s favorite main course of 2021. As for dessert, we keep it simple – a trio of sorbets (zl. 22) that punch with fruity flavor. All through this lunch, there has not been one little misstep. It’s a triumph. ASSESSMENT The Ferment Group have started to really annoy me – they make perfect look so effortless and easy. Of course it isn’t, and you realize that they’ve just become expertly accomplished in everything they do. For that they don’t just demand your custom, but your respect as well.

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Eat! listings D’ECLAIR YOUR LOVE The dessert trend of the year? That’ll be eclairs then. And no-one does them better than this magnificent seven…

Am’or Eklery i Wino (above)

Kurcza 23/31, fb.com/Amorekleryiwino You want to covet the eclairs from each possible angle, recording the results on your phone before sending the pics out to all of your contacts. Featuring embellishments such as a swirly rainbow-colored unicorn mane, these are elegant creations filled with cream that’s so light you suspect it might float away. Making use of seasonal fruits, posh chocolates and gourmet cheese, you’ll even find some with utterly wacky additions: pastrami beef, for instance. Looking dashing in its shades of pastel pink and gold trim, the place looks the part as well – we LOVE it!

Aromat

Various locations, aromatpiekarnia.pl Founded by a Polish-French mother-and-son team, Aromat sent Warsaw crazy when they first opened on account of their authentic French baking practices. But more than bread alone, visit one of their five locations for a concise but winning choice of eclairs – we’ve tried it a million times (just to be sure, you understand), and the lemon has never failed us.

Bozzo

Chmielna 27/31 & Dzielna 64, bozzo.pl As Poland’s first store specializing solely in ice cream and eclairs Bozzo have gained a devoted following in next to no time. Opened after ten-months of product testing, the results have reaped dividends with the French-style eclairs earning rave reviews. The work of pastry chef Adrian Edward Monik, the raspberry éclair is our hands-down winner.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Cafe de la Poste

Schroegera 72, fb.com/cafedelapostebielany Sticking to the classics rather than chancing their luck with new wave tomfoolery, Café de la Poste’s eclairs don’t go beyond presenting standard flavors such as vanilla, coffee and chocolate. Executed with convincing authenticity, you understand why this corner café in Bielany has become a local favorite.

Deseo

Various locations, deseo.pl Deseo helped pioneer the whole ‘luxury pastry store’ movement when they first opened, and they continue to keep their finger on the pulse. Little less than a decadent delight, the Amaia is a crunchy, nutty chocolate pleasure filled with gooey blueberry.

Kukułka

Mokotowska 52, fb.com/kukulkacukiernia This is arguably Warsaw’s most adored dessert stop, and though cream puffs are the specialty, they know a thing or two about eclairs as well. Using seasonal ingredients, recent winners have included a barnstorming blueberry concoction.

Sublime

Górskiego 9, fb.com/sublime.waw Launched over summer, Sublime make a powerful case for their inclusion in this hot list with smashing eclairs that lift you in the direction of heaven. Joining the city’s French revolution, the desserts at this spot are elegant and fulfilling, but it’s the salted caramel that will steal your heart.

Eat! listings author’s cuisine ALE WINO

You could eat in Ale Wino a hundred times – and we know some people that have – and still never be bored. That alone says much for the consistency and creativity of a kitchen that has come to be admired as the source of some of the best cooking in the city. Regularly adjusted to utilize the best items the season has to offer, chef Sebastian Wełpa’s menu is a triumph of expertly balanced tastes. Rounding out the experience is an intimate, labyrinthine design that’s ideal for when it’s cold and grim, and a shaded courtyard terrace that’s perfect for when it’s not. ul.

space that’s been seamlessly designed to feature a wine store, kitchen and dining room(s) that somehow feel organically joined. The atmosphere is lifted by faultless cooking that combines a little bit of Polish with a little bit of eclectic: it’s a combination that works and often magnificently well. ul. Rozbrat 44A

KLONN

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Attractively located in a lush expanse of leafy parkland, Klonn finds itself planted inside a low-level building just a whisper from Ujazdowski Castle. Dark and slick on the inside, the reverse is true of an exterior dedicated to expressions of street art. Yet

Mokotowska 48

BIBENDA

Preserving the prewar heritage of the building, the warm, busy interiors of Bibenda feel ripe for a pint: and yes, thanks to a rotating roster of craft beers, a good pint is what you can expect. Catching the ambience perfectly, the menu is an interesting work that specializes in spotting unlikely combinations that actually work: for instance, ‘cilantro funky pork sausages’ with pickled carrots, brussels sprouts and fried peanuts. Even better, the curvy bar is perfect for loners with dinner for one in mind! ul. Nowogrodzka 10

DYLETANCI

Entered into the Michelin Guide for the first time in 2018, Dyletanci’s inclusion in the foodie’s bible was further evidence of the trajectory its taken in the three years it’s been open. The epitome of the neo-bistro style, find an attractive

Miodowa 1, tel.888 575 457 | Hours: Wed-Sun: 12:00-21:00 fb.com/TrattoriaRucola | Insta.com/TrattoriaRucolaWarszawa www.trattoriarucola.pl

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Eat! listings while a big deal has been made of the visual creativity, it’s the food that leaves the real impact. A harmony of flavors, the hybrid cuisine includes luxury pizzas, hearty beef fillets and sophisticated desserts: it’s all a fantasy of skill. ul. Jazdów 1B

MOD

An incubator for the unorthodox, this cool and kooky venture pushes the envelope when it comes to being different. Devised by Trisno Hamid, a Singaporean chef with a classic French background, glories include ramen noodles in a steamy yuzu broth and Angus beef rump steak served with tahini mashed potatoes and a big thump of chili and fig relish. Adding to the sense of being somewhere current, find a seriously cool vibe inside an interior featuring a retro mirrored wall, upside down plants and busy tables filled with the kind of people that you’d mistake for rising fashion photographers. ul.

Oleandrów 8

RESTAURACJA WARSZAWSKA

Humongous in size, the vast spaces and lack of natural light never feel an issue. Loaded with slick finishes and polished raw materials, find this subterranean venue unraveling amid the giant original foundations that support this pre-war skyscraper. Divided into ‘snacks’, ‘plates’, ‘sides’ and ‘desserts’, big shouts go to a golden schnitzel the size of a tricycle wheel as well as the spicy pork dumplings served in a vibrant essence of paprika. It’s exceptional. Pl. Powstańców Warszawy 9 (Hotel Warszawa)

ROZBRAT 20

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” This busy neo-bistro fuses upmarket, casual styling with an exciting wine list, interactive service

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

and the kind of atmosphere you can’t get enough of. Under chef Bartosz Szymczak’s leadership, Rozbrat’s grown to become one of the blogospheres favorite writeups. Never the same, if there’s a consistent thread to visits then it’s the playful inventiveness that has come to define Szymczak’s cooking. ul. Rozbrat 20

chinese PAŃSKA 85

Despite the over-the-top luxury trimmings Pańska looks good without ever losing its dignity. With their kitchen staff headhunted from across China, the food sets a standard that has yet to be seen in any Chinese restaurant in Warsaw: there’s delicate salmon rolls wrapped in mango; dim sum that are pouches of pure goodness; and Sichuan-style pork that’s a blaze of sizzle and spice. The Beijing Duck, carved and served table-side, is the highlight. ul. Pańska 85

REGINA BAR

Taking their inspiration from New York’s Little Italy and Chinatown, the menu at Regina is the very definition of ethnic comfort food: won-ton dumplings, ribs in sticky hoisin sauce and the best-selling General Tso chicken – famed for its healing properties, it’s one of the best hangover remedies around. ul.

Koszykowa 1

f&b hubs BIOBAZAR

First founded in 2010, BioBazar pre-dated Warsaw’s love of foodfrom-the-source and triggered a

city-wide trend that’s shown no sign of slowing. After a few years out in Mokotow, they’ve now returned to their historic home at the Norblin Factory. Regarded as a city-wide phenomenon, this place shines a light on ecologically certified good and produce in a way no-one else manages. ul. Żelazna 51/53

BROWARY WARSZAWSKIE

No prizes for guessing this year’s most exciting opening. Set in a revamped former brewery, this development is stuns those who visit with its aesthetics – bars and restaurants include a flagship brewpub, a sports bar-restaurant concept by the footballer Robert Lewandowski, a cabaret-style ‘show restaurant’, and a string of stars like Japonka. Props also go to a food hall set inside the gorgeous brick, vaulted cellars. ul.

Grzybowska / Krochmalna

CENTRUM PRASKIE KONESER

Set in the revitalized space of a 19th century vodka factory, Koneser has seamlessly blended modernity with post-industrial scenery to create an energetic dynamic reflected by its rich cultural and artistic offer, niche boutiques, local stores and impressive food and drink offer. An island of prosperity in the otherwise largely gritty Praga suburb, props go to the Koneser Grill and Bombaj Masala. Pl. Konesera

ELEKTROWNIA POWIŚLE

The big headlines last year were set aside for Elektrownia Powiśle, a magnificent reinvention of a historic power plant that once kept the city fed with electricity. Today, it’s feeding Warsaw something a helluva’ lot more tastier – you swing in for a food court that’s dazzling in both its offer and visual impact: neon is king! Cocktail bars, a craft beer point and

Eat! listings an exhaustive selection of street food units give more cause to visit. ul. Dobra 42

HALA GWARDII

Designed to complement, rather than compete, with the market outside, find a natural gravity effect that works to benefit both Gwardii and Hala Mirowska. Operating only weekends, Gwardii has become a well-loved addition to Warsaw’s gastro scene, with its farmers’ market working well with the food booths on the other side of this historic hall. Pl. Żelaznej Bramy 1

HALA KOSZYKI

Introducing the absolutely bleeding obvious, Hala Koszyki changed Warsaw’s mindset when it first opened in 2016. Gathering dozens of niche venues under the wrought iron ceiling of a historic market place, it transformed the way Warsaw eats, meets, drinks and plays. Still highly influential, it’s guaranteed that once the weather warms up its front courtyard will again become one of the best people watching spots you’ll find in the city. ul. Koszykowa 63

a nationwide fixation, and Fort 8 stands as an example to all. Set at the point where Ursynów, Mokotów and Wilanów all meet, this 19th century Tsarist barracks has been buffed up spectacularly and its vaulted units infilled with workshops, stores and restaurants. Smashed sideways by the pandemic, the return of this upmarket bastion is good news for those that appreciated the charms of Dziruka od Klucza, Fort Bistro and Wine Corner. ul. Fort Służew 1B

fine dining EPOKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Preserved 19th century cornices and baroque-style drapes lend an enveloping sense of luxury inside this A-Class space. Scene of the Insider’s most impressive dining moment of 2019, Epoka’s menu is based on Polish cookbooks from different epochs (hence the name, dummy!), with the dishes reconstructed in a way that’s innovative, unexpected and a roller coaster of

thrills. Oh gosh moments include jellied apple compote; a sweet and boozy pumpkin pottage; razor thin chestnut with marinated celeriac; and bigos like no other. You want to pause the evening for at least forever. ul. Ossolińskich 3

EUROPEJSKI GRILL

Decked out in tan and vanilla shades, hexagonal lighting installations, glinting mirrors and bold, blue ceramics, there’s a character that bridges the classic with the contemporary to magnificent effect. Basque chef Beñat Alonso has used the lockdown to simplify his menu, a work which gives regional suppliers an all-star role. But ‘simple’ is a relative term. The Europejski Grill has not lost its sophistication, as proved by a summer visit that saw us bowled over by a as a hazelnut soup with fig leaves and wild rocket and an artichoke confit served with a lightly grilled shallot cured for six weeks. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13

NOBU

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Famously founded by Meir Teper,

FORT MOKOTÓW

Like entering a secret world, a potholed lane flanked by scraggly bushes opens up to reveal a former Tsarist era military complex whose battered brick fortifications have since been turned over to house ad agencies, art studios and assorted creative think tanks. Food and drink also play a role here, with the lead taken by Żywa Kuchnia, an eatery that promises to regenerate the mind and body with their “bio-active, healing foods”. ul. Racławicka 99

FORT 8

The penchant for reviving historical addresses and filling them with food and drink concepts has become

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Eat! listings Nobu Matsuhisa and some aspiring actor by the name of Robert De Niro, it’s a space that promises simplicity, elegance and minimalism, not to mention a harmonious sense of modern, zen-like luxury. On the menu, meanwhile, expect their signature squid ‘pasta’; new-style sashimi; and black cod miso as well as killer cocktails such as lychee & elderflower martini. ul. Wilcza 73

as well: seen as a long, slick space decorated with steel tubing, bursts of greenery and a coved glass ceiling, dining here has been one of the Insider’s great, recent pleasures. Pl.

NOLITA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” To the uninitiated, Georgian food is representative of the heart, spirit and passion of its people; it’s a cuisine that values the concept of the feast: wine, laughter and song find themselves elevated to roles of primary importance. A food of life, spice and whole-hearted tastes, consider Rusiko as the best ambassador there is for this surprisingly diverse kitchen, and award-winning chef Davit Turkestanishvili the string-pulling master. There’s nowhere else in Poland that does Georgian better. Al.

For many diners, there is no bigger night out than one that begins and ends in this enclave of class. Dashing in its monochrome colors and muted gunmetal shades, Nolita is where Warsaw heads to live the life of the 1%. Lacking the magic tricks of some, the ‘show factor’ might be subdued but the tastes definitely aren’t. Who to credit? Two words: Jacek Grochowina. ul. Wilcza 46

SIGNATURE

Flirting with fine dining – yet at prices a notch below – the menu is a succession of highs that are a tribute to the sophisticated palate of chef Wojciech Kilian. Adding to the sense of being somewhere special is a setting inside the former interwar Soviet Embassy. Adorned with original, auction-bought photos of Marilyn, pretty pink colors and luxury fittings, Signature washes over you in waves of bliss. ul. Poznańska 15

SZÓSTKA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found on the sixth floor of a 1930s tower that was, for a time, ranked Europe’s second tallest building, Szóstka was the fine dining experience that EVERYONE loved over the last year. For that, credit goes to Dariusz Barański, a highly skilled chef fond of presenting such dishes as crab meat toast with lime and mango. And there’s the setting,

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Powstańców Warszawy 9

georgian RUSIKO

Ujazdowskie 22

greek & turkish MR. GREEK SOUVLAKI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” With its smart navy blue exterior festooned with pot plants, this tiny townhouse seduces all who pass – but if the front terrace is a gem, then enter to find a place that simply bubbles with warmth and the engaging air of gentle chaos. While there’s no frills or fancy with the food, there really doesn’t need to be: you dine on pillowy pittas and skewers of meat while enjoying carafes of wine brought to you by Takis, an enthusiastic owner that wears his heart on his sleeve. ul. Londyńska 16

MYKONOS

You’re struck first by the sheer size of Mykonos – it’s simply immense. Though undeniably slick, never does the cosmopolitan style lose the fundamental casual effervescence one naturally associates with the jewel of the Aegean. The food scores highly as well. It’s not rocket science – Greek cuisine rarely is – but it is everything you remember from your holiday by the sea: unfailingly delicious. ul.

Grzybowska 62

SANTORINI

Santorini looks scuffed and tired but there’s a bonhomie present that instantly engages. The kitchen attaches no value to things like presentation, preferring instead to simply treat diners to piles of grilled and skewered food that consistently tastes right – enjoying it is easy. ul. Egipska 7

indian BOLLYWOOD LOUNGE

Known for their raucous dusk-tilldawn parties, there is another less hedonistic roll filled by Bollywood: that of a restaurant. The menu is an uncomplicated, classic affair that’s an ideal primer for the party ahead. ul. Nowy Świat 58

BOMBAJ MASALA

Not just the best looking of Warsaw’s Indian restaurants, Bombaj Masala also has some of the best cooking. With so many restaurants reliant on one ‘master pot’ for their curry, this classy venue feels unique in delivering a variety of rich, intense tastes. The vindaloo is a special standout, with big, punchy flavors that leave you tingling long after you leave. Al. Jana Pawła II 23

Eat! listings GURU

FOCACCIA

The menu is a union of local, seasonal ingredients (organic this, farmyard that) and imported spices, coming together to blast the competition out of the water. From the openers, the chili chicken fry stands out as a dish that’s all snap and crackle, while of the mains the tikka masala is exceptional in taste. And when you want to take the nuclear option, sign the disclaimer before being flattened by the phaal – it’s Poland’s hottest curry!

The big surprise at Focaccia is that there’s no Italian in the kitchen – it appears they don’t need one. Looking splendid in its crystal white colors, this dining room has plaudits aplenty for its selection of pizzas and more sophisticated mains: order the duck breast with marsala sauce for a failsafe choice. ul. Senatorska 13/15,

INDIA GATE

ARIGATOR

ul. Widok 8

Deviating from the more standard Indian menus (if you’ve seen one you’ve seen ’em all), order here for self-proclaimed “immunity boosting” dishes such as prawn garlic curry; lamb and spinach deewani; or chicken in a rich mango sauce. Specializing in delicious southern Indian dishes, find also a number of non-standard curries and starters including fluffy lentil pancakes and dosa stuffed with cheese. Al.

focaccia.pl

japanese

Jerozolimskie 87, indiagate.pl

This Japanese-style noodle joint whisks you to the narrow, steamy back alleys of late night Tokyo. Clad in corrugated iron and dark, weathered wooden slats, it’s got that buzzing sense of chaos that feels familiar from the films. And the food, gosh, they get that right as well. From a tiny menu order up dainty pork dumplings, braised kakuni bacon or deep-fried tofu before hitting up a feisty bowl of ramen emanating life-affirming goodness.

italian

SAKANA SUSHI & STICKS

DZIURKA OD KLUCZA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Having upped sticks from their spiritual home in Powiśle, the DoK team magically teleported themselves to Fort 8 where they’ve carried on much as before: that is, knocking out beautiful homemade pasta and other Italian staples to appreciative audience that’s followed them for years. And it looks pretty fine as well – immerse yourself in an intimate and engaging interior decked out with door frames and hanging plants.

Fort Służew 1B

WELCOME TO GREECE! For authentic Greek food & hospitality, look no further than Mr. Greek Souvlaki! ul. Londyńska 16 (Saska Kępa)

ul. Piękna 54

It’s not uncommon to hear the preparation of sushi described as a form of art, and in Sakana that’s exactly what it is. Using premium ingredients and unusual combinations, their creations are a vivid blast of color and freshness. ul. Moliera 4/6

UKI UKI

How much do the locals appreciate Warsaw’s original udon bar? Enough to queue outside the door? That’s right. Dining is a close quarters experience here, but is done so without complaint: that electric pasta maker turns out noodles of such chewy goodness that everyone leaves beaming. ul. Krucza 23/31

BEST of WA R S AW 2020

Insider Approved: Best of Warsaw WINNER 2020!

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Eat! listings korean HESU WARSAW

Looking at the design components isn’t unlike viewing a Pinterest board featuring all the other new-wave joints around town, and that familiarity extends to a millennial color palette high on clashing shades of pastel. Staff, almost predictably come with mustaches, tatts and Hawaiian shirts, and these trend-conscious foot soldiers bring forth one of the city’s best kimchi salads. Blue rice and loaded cocktails add to the fun, young slant. ul. Oboźna 9

THE COOL CAT

Refusing to take themselves too seriously, the angle is fun and forward-thinking, something that’s evidenced by way of an occasionally wacky menu of Americanized Asian food (the matcha ice cream donut is insane in both idea and taste!). The cocktails are equally eccentric yet also reveal some devastating talent: the Kimchi Mary is pungent, punchy and above all potent! ul. Solec 38 (also on Marszałkowska 8)

latin & spanish CEVICHE BAR

With chef Martin Gimenez Castro injecting his passion and personality into the venue, this is an address that punches through the greyness of everyday Warsaw. Ceviche is the default order with the Atun one of the best sellers: chunks of tuna given a rich zing with the addition of chili, lime and roasted coriander. The Japanese influence on South America’s dining habits isn’t forgotten either, with must-haves including the salmon tiraditos. Served with teriyaki

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

and sweet potato mash, it’s a joy of satisfying sensations: sweet, dreamy, spicy, creamy. ul. Twarda 4

mexican LA SIRENA

Inspired by the ultra-violent films of Danny Trejo, the hardcore interior heaves with machetes, holy shrines, skulls and wire mesh; but if La Sirena looks fab, it tastes even better. Introducing a new dimension to Warsaw’s parched Mexican landscape, highlights inc. poblano peppers stuffed with pork/beef, peach, apple and apricots, as well as a ‘near death’ salsa that’s finally living up to its name. ul. Piękna 54

SENOR LUCAS

Submerged down one of those cramped, little walk-down units on ul. Poznańska, its tiny proportions (one table and a counter to lean on) and basic aesthetics (a blackboard and some crates) belie a standard that sits there with the best – actually, it’s become our favorite Mex in town! Based around handmade tortillas, find a small menu of burritos and rolled quesadillas stuffed with marinaded meats and ringing with peppy salsas and big flavor contrasts. ul. Hoża 41 (enter from Poznańska 16)

middle eastern JOEL SHARING CONCEPT

Joel Sharing Concept seeks to channel the atmosphere and tastes typically found in the food markets and bazaars of contemporary Tel Aviv. As such, find yourself ordering from a small galaxy of bites that range from pittas stuffed with beef and lamb kofta to mezze dishes

such as baked beetroot served with stewed tomatoes, cranberries and cumin. ul. Koszykowa 1

MAGHREB

Maghreb is a place to call home – a warm, familiar restaurant whose bijou interior falls on the good side of casual. The sense of natural goodness is emphasized by the add-ons that start landing on the table: a creamy baba ganoush with a gently smoky taste; zingy tabbouleh salad that screams with perky freshness; and an addictive mechouia dip made with roasted peppers and tomatoes. But these are a precursor for mains such as tajine dishes defined by their big-hearted richness. ul. Burakowska 9

polish (modern) BARON THE FAMILY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Set around a spacious network of canopied outdoor wooden cabins, the Insider’s former Chef of the Year, Aleksander Baron, presents a casual food offer around his passion for ‘food from the fire’. Yes sir, that means suckling pigs; sausages flavored with gingerbread spice; tartare served inside fried bread; piles of ribs; and other hefty foods that make you feel good about life. Having evolved from maverick talent to national treasure, this is The Good Baron at his thundering best!

Krakowskie Przedmieście 4

BEZ GWIAZDEK

Focusing each month on a different region of the country, Robert Trzópek’s tasting menu takes diners to the very heart of the Polish soul and does so via tastes that betray

Eat! listings his fine dining background: delicate and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the mundane Polski feast. For many, it’s the best restaurant in the city! ul. Wiślana 8

KIELISZKI NA PRÓŻNEJ

You’ll find Kieliszki na Próżnej, the latest restaurant to mark the rehabilitation of Próżna, so named after the 1,116 wineglasses that hang tantalizingly over the bar. As an anchor feature the suspended glassware is arresting and equaled only by a long stretch of wall art doodled by Mariusz Tarkawian. ul. Próżna 12

POLANA SMAKÓW

Compact and woodsy, Polana Smaków has lost none of its copious charm since trading a no-man’s land location for city center Warsaw. Few chefs do a better job than Andrzej Polan when it comes to making herring sexy, with his interpretation arriving with a homemade bagel and blobs of orange pumpkin. It’s sophisticated yet reassuringly simple. ul. E. Plater 14

polish (classic) PYZY FLAKI GORĄCE

Insulate yourself against the chill with a hearty helping of homemade dumplings that are squished into jars. Budget-minded in both cost and appearance, it’s become one of Praga’s worst kept secrets with several of Poland’s top food writers praising it to the hilt. Filled with a wide cast of characters, nowhere does a better job of expressing the district’s soul than this ramshackle eatery. ul. Brzeska 29/31

STARY DOM

A classic restaurant in style and

history: back in the day it was a favorite haunt of jockeys and race goers from the horse track nearby. Pre-war recipes form the basis of the menu, with the team using seasonal produce and the latest technology to bring out its best. ul. Puławska 104/106

steak houses KONESER GRILL

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Brought to you from the same stable as Rozbrat 20 and Butchery & Wine, the Ferment Group’s latest opening ticks just about every box going. Amid smooth lighting, blond woods, metal fixtures and outbreaks of rich teal colors, visit for a menu based around the concept of ‘fire’. Yes, that means meat. But beyond that, do also anticipate unexpected glories such as quail Scotch eggs and grilled Fine de Claire oysters. It’s all stonkingly brilliant. ul. Ząbkowska 29

(Centrum Praskie Koneser)

MIĘSNY

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Already firmly embedded in the hearts of the surrounding community (and beyond), this local champion has long been hailed by foodies for a menu that offers an atavistic joyride through primal, caveman pleasures: if there’s a better chateaubriand being served in Poland then we’ve yet to find it. ul. Walecznych 64

thai BANGKOK SOI

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” In a city where most Thai is overpriced and under-spiced Bangkok Soi are a knight in shining armor.

Dispensing entirely of formality, order from a crumpled sheet of paper at the counter before seating yourself in a basic room decorated with Chang beer pennants and Muangthong United football scarves. Al. Jana Pawła II 50

THAISTY

Vivid colors and a busy open kitchen lend the place a happy buzz that lasts through the day, yet despite this many have voiced concerns that Thaisty’s runaway success has come at a cost to the overall quality. Even so, the BBQ skewers remain a good order. Pl. Bankowy 4

vegan EDAMAME VEGAN SUSHI

Sushi without its star ingredient sounds ridiculous, but this vegan sushi joint manages to out-maneuver its traditional competitors by replacing below-par fish with fresh, vegetarian produce: pak choy, shiso, avocado, eggplant, oyster mushrooms, asparagus, etc. In HappyCow’s rankings, it scores the highest of the lot. ul. Wilcza 11

LEONARDO VERDE

Geometric patterns, plant arrangements and the large format illustrative artwork of Dominique A. Faryno decorate Leonardo Verde, an upmarket – but inexpensive – Italian joint. Pizza is the forte, and you’ll see why after ordering the ‘hot romantic’. ul. Poznańska 13

MOMENCIK

Steamy, tight and sweaty, this pokey subterranean cavern has one key credit to its name: burritos that outrank the majority of ‘proper Mexicans’ in town. The salsas, too, are magnificent. ul. Poznańska 16

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Drink! First Sip

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

WHAT A RASCAL!

If you’re thinking of opening a bar or restaurant (good luck!), then bear in mind there are some things that’ll mark you out as being on-trend: a neon sign; geometric ornaments; an environmental manifesto; and some custom-made trinkets. Oh, and one more thing – wines supplied by Natural Rascal. Founded by interior designer Dominika Buck and film producer Radek Drabik, Warsaw’s most talked about importer have continued to make a splash ever since setting up a bricks-and-mortar location on a trending stretch of lively

Natural Rascal Bottle Shop Hoża 61 (enter from ul. E. Plater)

Emili Plater. Specializing in natural wines sourced from small, artisanal wineries, the diverse and extensive portfolio favors the unconventional with the choice solely focused on organic and biodynamic varietals – orange wines are a fave, but the selection covers all bases. Manned by helpful and knowledgeable staff, and set in a gorgeous room dominated by a long communal table, it’s a store that dares to do something different. And the good news does not end there – a bar / restaurant is slated for Moliera later in the year.

warsawinsider.pl

Review

BACKGROUND

Meet the Jetsons inside Warsaw’s wackiest new addition…

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

THE LOOK

The interior stops you in your tracks. Inspired, so we’re told, by The Jetsons, the moon landings and the atom, it’s a joy of lunar lines, pea green colors and furnishings and fittings that are retro-futuristic. Adorned with plants and a curvaceously bizarre ceiling light, your eyes dart all over the place before settling onto a sweepy bar that’s as snaky as the letter ‘s’. Though small in size, two mirrors positioned at each end seem to lend the place an additional fifty-meters. It’s all a trick of the mind, though, so instead perch on

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

GOODBYE PLANET EARTH!

Launched as a project between friends, the owners have quite a portfolio of venues: Pacyfyk, Prochownia and Paloma Nad Wisłą down the riverfront. Their experience and contact books have helped create a place that’s become one of the hottest addresses around.

Paloma Inn ul. Poznańska 21, fb.com/paloma.na.poznanskiej

own author’s cocktails that win the day – after starting with a startlingly sharp Queen Strawberry (grapefruit juice, lemongrass, vodka and strawberry) we enjoyed a passionate one-night stand with the Green Bubble (melon liquor, cognac, tarragon, lemon juice and fizzy water). And at a time when Warsaw prices have gone haywire, that cocktails twiddle around the mid-20s mark is welcome news indeed. One more thing: if you want to blast off onto your own space journey, then they’ve also got an ‘absinth fountain’.

BITES?

They’re bonkers. Vegan caviar; Hawaiian toast; food porn fries; and that essential 70s classic – cheesy fondue. Whether intentional or not, the signature though has become herring served in the layered style of an eclair. Slathered onto a brioche, find it topped with sour cream, mayo, onion and that vegan caviar we mentioned earlier.

MORE? a z-shaped chrome barstool at the window, or tuck yourself in at the formica tables splattered around.

VIBE

Groovy, of course. The easy-listening muzak sets a mood that remains relaxed no matter how busy it gets (and yes, it does pack out). Chiefly, the crowd fit into that ‘young professional’ bracket, which means lots of well turned-out boys and girls who define themselves as European. Foreign accents are prevalent, and while it feels undeniably young you won’t feel out of place if you’re greying and over 40 – we didn’t, anyhow, and to a large extent credit must be given to the chirpy, friendly staff.

GIMME’ A DRINK

There’s a decent choice of wines and bubbles and even a smattering of craft beer, but it’s cocktails that rule the roost. Classics are present, but it’s their

If all the green has you thinking you’re drinking in Kermit’s cavern then step into the bathroom. Woah! A clockwork orange affair, you walk into a trippy cubicle decorated with mandarin colored tiles and oval mirrors. Trendy eco soap by Yope and piped lounge music finish it off nicely. You shouldn’t really hang around toilets, but here you can’t help it.

FINAL WORD

In these uncertain times Paloma Inn is just what Warsaw needs: a place that takes you somewhere totally unexpected – somewhere that’s fun and escapist and not of this world. Goodbye Planet Earth!

warsawinsider.pl

Interview

After a two-year absence, Poland’s biggest beer festival is set to return this October. Co-founder Paweł Leszczyński joins us to spill the beans on the upcoming event…

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

You must be buzzing – but what’s going to really make this one work? All the things we’ve usually done are in place, but I think most of all the event is going to allow Poland’s top brewers to finally meet together with their fans. Sure, we’ve got various add-ons and special events planned, but the core of the event will no doubt be the

chance to meet the brewers for the first time in two years. Speaking of which, are there any breweries we need to watch for? I’m hugely excited that we’ve got a Belgian invasion on the way! Cantillon, established in 1900, are absolute legends. Known for their wild beers, to have them coming direct to Warsaw is amazing. But they’re also bringing three other Belgian breweries with them and together they’ll present four completely different faces of the beer revolution. And the others? Brasserie de la Senne was created by a guy that was squatting and came up with a beer for the Brussels Beer Festival.

PHOTOGRAPH COURTESY OF PAWEŁ LESZCZYŃSKI

HOPPY DAYS ARE HERE AGAIN!

WI: Wow, it’s two years since the last Warsaw Beer Festival? With the circumstances in mind, this must be the hardest festival you’ve ever planned? PL: Sure, but also hopefully the best! After all, we’ve had plenty of time to work out what we need to do to make the event absolutely perfect!

It proved so popular he founded his own brewery. Now, he’s really trying to redefine Belgian brewing to create ‘a new taste of Belgium’. L’Ermitage, meanwhile, are a very small new wave brewery producing beers in their own brewpub whilst En Stoemelings were created by two friends a few years back and basically started by illegally selling at local events – their story is kinda’ funny because they found their cover blown after being interviewed by a paper about their beer. They nervously contacted the tax office to see how they could climb out of trouble and were basically told, “look guys, just open a proper brewery”. Well, thanks to Kickstarter and their friends, they did and now they’re knocking out brilliant beers that follow traditional Belgian style. You’re excited! Yes! We can really learn from them. Simultaneously, it’s going to be exciting to show them what’s happening in Poland as that isn’t all that obvious to many foreign brewers. Well, what is happening in Poland? In line with trends, at this event I’m expecting a lot of barrel-aged beers as well as IPAs, particularly the New England version. Also, older styles like West Coast IPA are becoming more and more popular. On top of all that, the public is really going for low alcohol beers at the moment, ones that are around 3% to 3.5% in alcohol content. For a beer festival, these are great to have as well – the flavors are rich, the texture is thick

and you don’t need to worry about how much you drink! It’s been a long time since we last visited the Warsaw Beer Festival – what’s changed! The stadium – Legia have reconfigured the interior so it feels bigger. There’ll be tables, more games, I think it’ll have a different energy. Because the floor area has increased, we’ve also been able to invite more breweries. I think we’ve got 57 booked right now, and we’re estimating that there’ll be 450 taps serving 1,000 different beers. We always ask this, but how would you advise a first-timer approaches this festival? Previously I’ve tend to think of first-time visitors as people that were completely knew to craft beer. That’s changed. It’s become readily available throughout Poland and even features on the shelves of the big supermarket chains. I think its safe to say that a huge number of people have now at least tried it. My message to them is now that they’ve seen through the keyhole, they should come right on in and explore the full depth of the craft revolution. Most brewers, especially the smaller ones, only brew locally and don’t bottle their product. That means people have a whole new world to explore by visiting this festival. And it helps that they get to meet the brewers, I guess? Totally, and by doing so they can learn the secrets behind the craft revolution. We don’t want people to interpret craft beer as some liquid that they see sitting on a supermarket

shelf. For us in the industry, we think of craft beer as a work of contemporary art – and this event is essentially a beer museum that will showcase Poland’s portfolio of beer. When it comes to Poland’s craft sector, are you surprised how resilient it proved to be? Very. Originally, we suspected that up to a third of breweries could fold. What the pandemic showed us was how crazy craft brewers (and craft pub owners) are – the fact that they kept plugging away and running losses showed that it was never about the money. To me, I thought it perfectly illustrated how many people are driven by passion rather than business sense. From a personal point of view, you must be buzzing to be preparing for the beer fest… I’m relieved! At the end of the day, we’re social creatures. We’re not brewing beer to horde it for ourselves, we want to share it. As such, these kind of events have been sorely missed. The pandemic isn’t over by any means, so we’re a little nervous but the support we’ve received has been fabulous. It was a great feeling to learn just how much this festival meant to people. Beer bonds us together, but the community that has been born from the craft movement is about more than beer alone.

Warsaw Beer Festival When October 7th to 9th Where Legia Stadium Web warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl

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Review BUT WHERE DO I GO?

As dramatic as this address might be, it’s no good gawking upwards for its downstairs you must head. Traipse down a plunging set of stairs to reach a cavelike space whose warm brick skin can just about be discerned amid the darkness.

VISUALS?

Tough to identify given the depth of the shadows, but for all that it’s a space that feels atmospheric and primed for long, rowdy nights: budget but beery! Beyond the main room find an illuminated chamber that’s more popular with the girls.

WHOSE WELCOME?

Everyone, we imagine, apart from supporters of Viktor Lukashenko. Taking pride of place behind the bar, find hanging the white-red-white flag of Belarus – proudly Belarussian run, the welcome from the owners is warm, sincere and never short on cheer. Stay here for an hour and you’ll feel you’ve known them for years.

ON TAP…

A tap bar without geeks? Step right in! WHERE AM I?

Only one of the city center’s most memorable buildings. Formerly housing one of pre-war Warsaw’s leading construction firms, Horn & Rupiewicz, this striking architectural treasure makes a noise with its turret, stone balconies, overhangs and glorious Gotham-esque details. It’s fantastical.

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

ANYTHING ELSE?

Under a pair of decorative boobs check out a food offer that changes from week-to-week: some pizzas one day, hot dogs the next.

LAST WORD…

As dark as it might appear, it’s a cheerful place for people that, for want of a better word, like tanking back the booze and having a good time. Devoid of the usual beer geeks that infest Warsaw’s other tap bars, Beer Station has a straight-up honesty to it that’s refreshing to the soul. Enjoy it – we bloody well did. Beer Station Centrum ul. Lwowska 17, beerstation.pl

PHOTOGRAPH BY KEVIN DEMARIA

HOP, HOP HURRAY!

There’s twelve beers on tap, and of these there’s a usually a core of ‘standard’ beers for the boring: you know, Czech pils, German lager, etc. Outside of that, the other taps are saved for more exciting craft swigs as well as a couple of wines. Amusingly, their shots make the allegiances of the proprietors completely clear: order a white or black Belarussian to get the party started. Offering something for everyone, there’s some zany cocktails to try as well as a broad choice of craft and non-craft products in the fridge.

Drink! listings cocktails AURA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Nestled inside a small nook on Hoża, the mousehole dimensions of Aura are tempered by the tall ceilings and Moroccan-style design that’s so cool it found itself featured in Dezeen magazine. Promoting the heavy use of swivelly chrome stools and Persian rugs, the heavy hint of retro glam is balanced out by a crowd that, at times, strays into the head turning category. Find them lapping up a cocktail list firmly zoned around Aura’s collection of bourbons. ul.

Hoża 27

EL KOKTEL

The pert and pretty are here, so too the well-groomed modern man, but there’s a balance to the crowd that prevents any whiff of snob. As a bar it feels open-minded, engaging and intelligent, and those are traits that rub off on those present. Drinks – such as the smoking Out Of The Box – are insanely good, and served in a small, high-ceilinged interior busy with framed vintage posters, cyan-colored wallpaper, baffling photos of Lynch-esque scenes and gleaming strainers and shakers. ul. Wojciecha Górskiego 9

FLAMING BISTRO

With its perfect white colors, the glass-fronted oblong form of this pearl of interwar modernism has

an elegant sophistication to it that’s ravishing to look at. But it becomes even more so out the back. It’s here you’ll find a garden that’s been in-filled with well-spaced wooden decks hiding amid the vegetation and plant life. A garden in the truest sense of the word, the best view is from the balcony on top. Accessed via a glorious spiral staircase, it’s from here you gaze down on the impeccable Saska crowd that gathers below to sip sparkly wines, house lemonades and author’s cocktails. ul. Francuska 2

LONG BAR

Posh doesn’t begin to cover it. Clad in smooth marble, natural oak, eye-catching art and soft tan leather, Long Bar imparts a sense of luxury

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Drink! listings that feels elegantly timeless yet never excessive nor ostentatious. This being part of the venerable Raffles chain, you’d be missing the mark if you ordered anything but their signature Slings – make a night of it by roaring through their ten different versions of this trademark drink. ul. Krakowskie Przedmieście 13 (Raffles Europejski Hotel)

LORETA

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Well who doesn’t love a rooftop bar? That’s the setting of Loreta, a bar that channels the spirit of this design-led hotel brand through its funky décor and eclectic art. The terrace, though, is the clincher. As night falls, retreat to a deck signposted by a neon the color of bubblegum pink; here, amid bristling greenery and low-slung seating, join other cocktail hounds enjoying house sips such as the Loreta Cup.

ul. Widok 9 (Puro Hotel)

NOLA

NOLA: as in New Orleans, Louisiana. Jazz! Hedonism! Etcetera! Almost identical to its predecessor, Koko & Roy, the intimate interior has seen a few nips and tucks – vinyl records, cymbals and some black and white pics added to the walls. Dark and shadowy, its proved popular with the younger expat generation who gather here for drinks that include the Americanized version of Pimm’s and exotic creations with names like Absinth Frappe. ul. Wilcza 43, nolabar.pl

VHS BAR

An 80s-themed cocktail bar snuck inside a pocket-sized brick cellar lit with fun, garish neon and pics of the era’s defining legends. Supremely fun, order cocktails named after figures like Cyndi Lauper, Billy Idol and, of course, The Hoff, and enjoy

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

them on a pavement terrace that teems with life and laughter once evening strikes. Poznańska 7

WARSZAWA POWIŚLE

Best of Warsaw 2020 “Hot List” Found in a saucer-shaped building that began life in the 60s as a ticket booth, the retro-inspired Warszawa Powiśle is even better than the cult bar once found here. Polished up, and still touting original features such as power boxes and concrete floors, giant windows and a PRL era neon perched atop of the building, the scene is set for classic cocktails imbibed and enjoyed in a rotunda decorated with vintage tables, velvety poufs, leafy plants and an underlit, marble-topped bar. It’s nothing less than super cool. ul. Kruczkowskiego 3B

craft beer CHMIELARNIA MARSZAŁKOWSKA

A breath of fresh air when compared to the original – literally. Points are earned by whoever thought to add an Indian menu, while other pluses are awarded for a fridge housing exciting brews trending around the globe: from super cool Bermondsey breweries to Scandinavian legends, it’s a place you feel actually broadens your horizons. ul. Marszałkowska 10/16

CRAFT BEER MURANÓW

Humble and unpretentious, CBM’s rising stock has been reflected by their growing reputation as one of the finest tap bars with a suburban postcode. Split over two levels, as basic as the aesthetic is (screechy chairs and some murals that reference the brewing process), it’s an atmosphere that feels warm

and clattery and like a local pub should. Deserving credit for their consistency (a dodgy pint is totally unheard of), look to CBM’s sixteen taps for renegade beers that push frontiers. ul. Andersa 23

CUDA NA KIJU

Set in the former Communist Party HQ, find Warsaw’s first legitimate multitap bar slotted inside a glass prism hidden amid the solid, socialist era arcades. Drenched in sunlight that comes slanting through the glass walls, queue inside to order from the 15 taps firing out beers from various European craft breweries, before heading out to enjoy a humungous terrace dotted with deckchairs and tables. ul. Nowy Świat 6/12

CZEŚĆ

It started as a café, but now Cześć is better known as being at the forefront of the new generation of ‘quali-tap’ bars – small little places with six or so beers on the go. The two owners, Piotrek and Kuba, take their beer seriously, so do expect plenty of new finds as well as traditional favorites from stalwarts like Artezan and Pinta. ul. Grzybowska 2 (through the side passage)

DRUGIE DNO

To plug into the pounding heart of Warsaw’s craft beer scene, look no further than Nowogrodzka. Joining the ranks of the street’s multi-tap bars is Drugie Dno, a three-level space that’s been themed to evoke the look of a disused power station. Sporting rugged brickwork and a scuffed style, the industrialized look has been amped up to the max through the use of steel girders, vintage voltage meters and toilets disguised as elevator shafts. ul. Nowogrodzka 4

Drink! listings JABEERWOCKY

Drowned in boisterous babble and general pub racket, the affable Jabbers is home to what most rate as the most adventurous choice of craft beer in the city: pioneering international breweries are well represented, but don’t overlook the sensational drinks produced by Jabeerwocky’s very own master brewer. ul. Nowogrodzka 12

KUFLE I KAPSLE

Found somewhere round the top of Warsaw’s hierarchy of craft beer bars, Kufle welcomes all, from entry level novices taking their first steps in the beery world to note-taking nerds conducting research for their blogs. Interiors are respectful of the building’s pre-war heritage and are thick with noise, clamor and the reassuring smell of spillage. The edgy beer selection becomes is even more radical when you look down in the fridge. ul. Nowogrodzka 25

PINTA

Taking the space once occupied by the ill-fated Mikkeller Bar, Pinta’s flagship bears many of the hallmarks of the previous tenant: a pared down Scandi design set across two glass-fronted floors round the back of Chmielna. Featuring plenty of concrete and chunks of shipping containers, the sparsity of the design keeps your attention on the beer – and it’s brilliant. Pinta, if you don’t know, can be considered the founding fathers of Poland’s craft beer scene, and this bar gives their portfolio the attention it deserves. ul. Chmielna 7/9

SAME KRAFTY

Squashed into two narrow, rugged rooms decorated with benches and rough plaster walls, Same Krafty have rescued Old Town from big

beer brands peddling piss. Offering artisan alternatives, this intimate bar lures daring tourists looking to explore the more subversive side of Polish brewing. Too busy? Head five meters opposite to Same Krafty Vis-à-vis. You will find tourists, but locals are often the majority, a telling indicator that says much for their approval rating. ul. Nowomiejska 10

specialty coffee COFFEEDESK

Looking flawless in her pearl white colors, Coffeedesk is a place that does it right. Brewed by expert coffeeologists, the humble cup of Joe becomes an object of adoration. Populated round-the-clock by head-phoned freelancers and digital nomads tapping into their Macs, it’s a light, bright spot with a dynamic style and a keen sense of sexy. ul. Wilcza 42

COPHI

The phrase three’s a crowd could have been coined with Cophi in mind. Its super-snug dimensions are ideal for an afternoon spent curled up on an armchair watching the leaves tumble down on Hoża outside. A passion project whose small footprint is counterbalanced by the depth of its offer, the living room vibe mounts when the temperatures start dropping and the interiors act as a beacon to the public. Note: currently open for window-side take-outs only. ul. Hoża 58/60

DOBRA MATERIA

The micro scene that’s emerged on Nowolipki can no longer be ignored, and props go to the latest venture to open up on there. Co-owned

by an architect, the pared-down design works beautifully – curl up on a window ledge seat to sip on specialty coffee while gazing on a cooling interior of black and white colors and naked brick walls. ul.

Nowolipki 13

FAT WHITE

Attached to one of the hippest, most Instagram-able barber shops in town, highlights of this adjoining cafe include a rocking cold brew, wickedly friendly staff and a halfmad collection of toy action figures (from Simpson models to a bad ass Al Pacino in full Scarface mode!). Tiny in its footprint, what it lacks in size it makes up for in heart: find a beauty of an interior that’s all swan white colors with walls graced by bookshelves and contemporary art that references Muranów’s past. ul.

Andersa 6

FILTRY DOBRA KAWA

Launched in 2007 by Konrad Konstantynowicz, Filtry was the original specialty coffee café, a groundbreaking operation that led by example. Enjoy your coffee in a high-ceilinged unit clad in chess board colors and scuffed PRL flooring – considered by the city’s coffee afficionados as a place of pilgrimage, the responsibility falls to us to ensure it’s still standing when this lunacy ends. ul. Niemcewicza 3

FORUM

Born with Instagram in mind, Forum has it all: super cool Afro-haired staff, a fashionably frayed interior, and a devoted client base that’s all about out-sized headphones and razor-thin laptops. Changing weekly, the big pull is a menu of specialty coffees from acclaimed roasters such as Five Elephant and The Coffee Collective fixed up by Poland’s AeroPress and Brewers

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Drink! listings Cup champion. ul. Elektoralna 11

KAWIARNIA FABRYCZNA

Head to this warm den to sink inside comfy retro chairs and wallow in the natural light that seeps through the window. Prepared on a Nuova Simonelli machine, the coffee hails from a range of pedigree roasters such as Warsaw’s own Coffee Lab. Creaky wooden floorboards, local artwork and non-obtrusive colors make it a prime perch after a wintry prowl through the parks of Powiśle. ul. Fabryczna 28/30

KAWIARNIA KAWAŁEK

This neighborhood café offers a human touch in an area filling itself with gleaming glass blocks and gated compounds. Acting as a magnetic force, the homemade nitro machine (“I just like making things,” says the owner), is a thing of legend. ul. Łucka 18

RELAKS

An evergreen institution, the specialty coffee at Relaks commands respect across Poland. Jacketed in chipboard panels and retro posters, the buzz has lasted so long as to become ingrained in their DNA. ul. Puławska 48

RELAX NA WILCZEJ

An updated upgrade of the original Relax found downtown, this modern day success story maximizes all available space and light with a clean-lined interior that’s embellished by a scattering of coffee tomes and a statement mural by Mariusz Tarkawian. A cracking edition to the capital’s line-up of alt. coffee haunts. ul. Wilcza 17

ROŚLINA

Set in the heart of Stare Bielany – an attractive, inter-war development not dissimilar to the leafier parts of

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Saska and Żoliborz – there’s something about Roślina that everyone loves. Using their shoestring budget to maximum effect, the plant-filled, concrete interior feels social and creative, though to make the most of the golden autumn head to the magical little garden to the side. ul.

Schroegera 80

STOR

Heaven for freelancers and people watchers, visitors bask in natural light amid outbreaks of greenery and quirky design touches: over some of the best specialty coffee in the city, time runs away here and before you know it hours have passed. Though it feels like a neighborhood warrior, it comes as no surprise that Stor’s patrons hail from all over Warsaw. ul. Tamka 33

U KRAWCA

Creaky floorboards and references to the address’s former function as a tailor’s shop lend a warmth that’s particularly pronounced once the overhead draftsman’s lamps are switched on. Homemade cakes, hipster colas and coffee sourced from the likes of Gesha keep it packed with a friendly crowd of local aficionados. ul. Siennicka 3

wine bars BUBBLES

Despite sounding like a 1980s Essex nightclub, find this bistro locked inside an eternal state of romance. A charismatic assembly of rickety crates, Tolix chairs and deep forest greens, this compact space is ripe for dating. Order a glass of bubbles before plunging into a menu inspired by the slow food philosophy. Damn right there’s a lot to like at Bubbles,

but there’s even more to love. Pl.

Piłsudskiego 9

CZARNE CZERWONE ZŁOTE

Deeply relaxing in its own quietly fashionable manner, the setting pairs well with a crowd that’s professional, sophisticated and impeccably turned-out. With the name referring to the colors of the German flag, you’d be right to expect a wine list that offers a deep dive into German wines. The menu, too, isn’t to be sniffed out – the wafer thin Flammkuchen are fab. ul. Koszykowa 49A

DYLETANCI

The archetypal all-rounder, Dyletanci has it all: an approachable bistro style; adventurous cooking; and a wine list with no discernible Achilles Heel. Burgundy is a particular strength, as too are Polish wines (including those from the proprietor’s own vineyard, the upcoming Dom Bliskowice). ul.

Rozbrat 44

LA BUVETTE

La Buvette sits like a hidden gem, nestled on a charming street that radiates off Stara Ochota’s Pl. Narutowicza – tree-lined and looking like a cloned version of a picturesque arrondissement of Paris.. ul. Mochnackiego 4/43

RAUSZ NA WILCZEJ

Formerly a restaurant serving pre-war cuisine, Rausz na Wilczej used the pandemic to reposition themselves as a wine store / bar, building on their previous reputation for sourcing quirky labels you wouldn’t have necessarily heard of before. “In general,” says co-owner Izabela, “we want to present wines we drink ourselves from regions that are interesting and well worth knowing.” ul. Wilcza 27

PRESS MATERIAL

GET LOST! Trapped as the Insider is in a permanent state of infancy, news of a labyrinth 30-minutes from central Warsaw certainly left us thrilled. Actually created two-years back, and constructed from interlocking wooden panels that allow for regular reconfigurations, visitors choose from a variety of thematic routes aimed at different ages – animal-themed trails; geographic challenges; politically-minded routes and, even, a murder mystery one for adults. Taking anything from 45-minutes to 90-minutes to complete, it’s the kind of return to innocence that even grown-ups will cherish.

Labirynt pod Warszawą ul. Marii Konopnickiej 2 (Milanówek), fb.com/labiryntpodwarszawa

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ALL IN THE DETAILS

aking a year to execute, Jan Styka’s has title befitting its monumental dimensions: “Vytautas vows revenge against the Teutonic Knights against the backdrop of a burning Kaunas”. Measuring 3.5 meters in height, and 6.4 meters in length, the painting was produced by one of Jan Matejko’s bestknown proteges, with some understanding it as a tribute to the master himself. Certainly,

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

similarities to his masterpiece, The Battle Of Grunwald, are striking, not least in the way the central character – Vytautas – is depicted. Borrowed from the permanent exhibition of the Vytautas Magnus Military Museum in Kaunas, and on show until mid-November, the painting is defined by its sheer complexity and elaborate detail. Surrounded by leading representatives of the Gediminid dynasty, the painting shows a defiant Vy-

tautas with a sword raised aloft as he rouses his followers. Though highly questionable from a historic perspective (Vytautas would probably have only been a few years old when Kaunas was captured, while another featured character, Jogaila, was most likely not even born at the time), the painting was never intended to be historically accurate – rather, it was a celebration of Lithuania’s heroic accomplishments.

PHOTOGRAPH THIS SPREAD BY KEVIN DEMARIA

On loan to the renovated Kubicki Stables, an epic battle painting by Jan Styka has gone on show in the Royal Łazienki Museum.

Kubicki Stables ul. Agrykola 9, lazienki-krolewskie.pl

On a patchy piece of earth, a lance lies discarded on the ground. Both its red-and-white coloring and form are redolent of the barriers later erected to mark border crossings. “It’s strictly my interpretation,” says the museum’s Daniel Cichorski, “but I think there’s a symbolic meaning to the lance.”

In the distance, the city of Kaunas burns having been ransacked by the Teutonic Knights. Considered the gateway to central Lithuania, the capture of the castle in 1362 was the first major event to be recorded in the city’s history.

4. LOOK OUT FOR

Looking pensive, a Samogitian warrior gazes forth at the scene in front. The province of Samogitia was hotly contested between Lithuania and the Prussian and Livonian branches of the Teutonic Order and the target of relentless and destructive Teutonic forays. Curiously, the figure depicted is striking similar to Jan Matejko’s portrayal of Jan Zizka of Trocnov in his painting The Battle of Grunwald.

That’s not Gandalf, rather a pagan priest. As Europe’s last pagan country, the beliefs of the Lithuanian people provided the Teutonic Knights with plenty of excuses to carry forth their violent crusades. “I’m of the thinking that this priest is some kind of prophet,” says Cichorski, “one that’s foreseeing vengeance on the Knights at the Battle of Grunwald.”

We know that Jan Styka painted at least part of his epic work in Paris, for there it is inscribed on the painting. “Later,” says Cichorski, “the painting traveled to Russian-controlled Lithuania where it was treated as a reminder of Lithuania’s great history. It became a symbol of independence.”

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IN THE RING!

Boxing returns to Hala Gwardii in October…

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

To this day, boxing has not been deleted from memory and that much is evidenced by the existence of a statue of Stamm in the park outside, as well as a series of vintage sporting photographs inside Gwardii itself. More than just paying lip service, however, Hala Gwardii’s operators have been keen to write the next chapter in the facility’s boxing story. Taking place on October 16th, its cavernous hall will again echo to the cheers of fans as boxers from Poland

and Sweden meet head on to contest the 17th Landowski Boxing Night Gala. Presided over by the sports journalist and TV celebrity Szymon Majewski, and doubtlessly attracting a raft of celebs from the realms of film, sport, politics and music, it’s an evening that promises to be high on intense sporting glory. Hala Gwardii plac Żelaznej Bramy 1, halagwardii.pl

PHOTOGRAPH THIS PAGE COURTESY OF ORGANIZER, OPPOSITE PAGE BY KEVIN DEMARIA

sk a cross-section of Warsaw what Hala Gwardii means to them and you’ll get a thousand different answers from a thousand different people. Of course, for many it’s the food angle that’s most prominent, but for others it’s equally about the architecture, the atmosphere, events and community spirit. But history, too, also plays its part in the many charms of Hala Gwardii. Richly associated with the story of Polish boxing, it was in 1953 that the European Boxing Championship was held right under its roof. Coached by the legendary Feliks Stamm, his young fighters racked up a horde of nine medals – five of which were gold. Impressive as this was, it was about more than just sport. Triumphing over German and Soviet boxers, given the historical context of the times Poland’s landslide of medals took on an almost spiritual dimension. When the national anthem rang out to mark the end of the tournament, it’s said that many local fans were reduced to tears. As for Stamm, he was carried out shoulder high with cries of “Bravo Stamm” reverberating around the streets.

LAST CHANCE

SHINING LIGHT ON THE COLD

At the Zachęta, art under Communism comes under the microscope…

dmired by newcomers to the city, but often overlooked by the locals, the remnants of the Socialist Realist era are still prevalent in Warsaw. The art, however, is less so. Looking to shed new light on the cold reality of the 1950s, this exhibition – which ends on October 10th – takes an in-depth look at the works produced in those post-war years. Often, one can perceive the art of this time at face value: workers tending to machines or proudly beavering in the countryside can simply be viewed as depictions of the common pursuit of a bold, new future. But whilst this may have been the fundamental motif, this exhibition looks beyond the idyllic landscapes and exciting technological developments to painstakingly observe what it meant to be an artist in this time – a chapter during which all artistic merit tends to be discredited and pigeonholed as propaganda. Giving these artists a long overdue individual voice, the Zachęta personalizes their work to bring their talents to the fore.

Highlights (clockwise from top) Hans Mattis-Teutsch, Coalface (Abataj), ca 1950, oil on canvas, courtesy of Muzeul de Artă Brașov Andrzej Wróblewski, Execution Against a Wall, 1949, oil on canvas, Polish Army Museum, Warsaw. Zbigniew Dłubak, Portrait Series, ca 1954 Photographs, Archeology of Photography Foundation, Warsaw

COLD REVOLUTION Central and eastern european societies in times of socialist realism, 1948–1959 Zachęta Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

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learning preschools AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

warsaw montessori family

Warsaw Montessori Schools

Students aged 3-5 are encouraged to try new things, ask questions, and take risks in a nurturing environment in which they learn life skills alongside academics. Following the Primary Years Programme (PYP), our young students become caring, active participants in a lifelong journey of learning. Contact admissions@aswarsaw.org

Accepting applications for our programs and locations: Infant & Toddler Tatrzańska 5a Badowska 19

Casa dei Bambini Badowska 19 Szkolna 16, Hornówek

Elementary

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit.

Szwoleżerów 4

„Erdkinder” Middle School Tatrzańska 5a

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW EARLY YEARS CENTRE

Montessori High School

Pytlasińskiego 13a Contact Office: 692 099 134 office@warsawmontessori.edu.pl

www.wmf.edu.pl 68

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reklama montessori 1/3_46x206.indd 1

The British School Warsaw provides EYFS classes from nursery to Year 1 (6 years old). Children develop quickly and their Early Years practitioners aim to do all they can to help your child have the best possible start in life and become a

18.12.2018 12:32

lifelong learner. ul. Dąbrowskiego

84 (Early Years Centre), tel. 22 646 7777, thebritishschool.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW PRESCHOOL

Welcoming students from the ages of 2.5 to 6 years old, currently 45% of their admissions are international students. The dedicated, IB-trained teachers deliver an innovative program (PYP) in English designed for modern world needs. The program offers a combination of Literacy, Maths, Social Studies, Science, Physical Education, Art, Music & Rhythmics, French and Polish classes. ul. Ignacego Krasickiego 53,

tel. 697 979 100, canadian-school.pl

CASA DEI BAMBINI & TODDLER SCHOOL

(multiple locations) Casa dei Bambini and Toddler School have three green and harmonious locations in Mokotów and Izabelin. The school in Izabelin is set in the quiet of the Kampinos Forest just outside the city. Teachers are fully trained in early-childhood education in English according to the Montessori philosophy. Registration open to children 12 months to 6 years of age. ul. Badowska 19, ul. Tatrzańska 5a (Mokotów), ul. Szkolna 16, (Izabelin), tel. 692 099 134, wmf.edu.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual

School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637),

ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

THE ENGLISH PLAYHOUSE

The English Playhouse functions in two green and quiet residential districts of Mokotów and Wilanów. The pre-school follows the English National Curriculum and accepts

children from 12 months up till six-years-old. For more info or to arrange a tour call Justyna Nowak on tel. 784 037 808 or email: jnowak@ theenglishplayhouse.com ul.

years). ul. Piechoty Łanowej 46A

(entrance from Rotmistrzowska/ Petyhorska), tel. 531 599 444, mapletreemontessori.pl

Pływiańska 14a, tel. 22 843 9370, tep.edu.pl

MAPLE TREE MONTESSORI

Maple Tree Montessori is a family-run, international preschool that offers an authentic Montessori curriculum supported by a Music & Art program, with a natural playground and a strong focus on an ecological & healthy lifestyle. They have two classes: a toddler group (15 to 30 months) and a casa class (2.5 to 6

MONTESSORI STEPPING STONES

An intimate, international, English-speaking preschool located in Powsin that follows the Montessori philosophy which emphasizes the individuality of each child. Children from the ages of 1.5-years-old to 6-years-old are welcome, with the school’s goals aimed at facilitating the individual development of the child, both physical and mental, through a

Admissions open for Early Years, Primary, Secondary and IB

Contact our Admissions Team for a tour or a personalised Virtual Discovery Meeting

admissions@thebritishschool.pl (0048) 22 842 32 81 ext. 125 www.thebritishschool.pl

warsawinsider.pl

system that is focused on the spontaneous use of the human intellect. ul. Przyczółkowa 140, tel. 728

939 582, montessoristeppingstones.pl

schools

AKADEMEIA HIGH SCHOOL

Akademeia High School is an academically selective international school in Warsaw, offering iGCSEs and A Levels whilst preparing students for the best universities in the world. The staff body consists of alumni of the world’s best universities, whilst facilities at what has become Poland’s most prestigious school include an art studio, auditorium, sports hall and roof garden. ul.

Ledóchowskiej 2, akademeia.edu.pl

AMERICAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW

With over 50 nationalities, ASW has been

welcoming students from around the world since 1953. As an IB Continuum school, our students follow the PYP, MYP and DP throughout their learner journey. These programmes develop inquiring, knowledgeable and caring young people who are motivated to succeed. They are inspired by our highly qualified and international teaching staff. Students graduate with either the IB diploma or an American high school diploma. All programs are conducted in English, with integrated EAL support for non-native speakers. Contact:

admissions@aswarsaw.org or 22 702 85 00, ul. Warszawska 202 (Konstancin-Jeziorna), aswarsaw.org

BRITISH PRIMARY SCHOOL OF WILANOW

A values-driven school offering a world-class education based on the best of British Education. BSW is the first school in Poland to be accredited as Compliant by the Council of British International

Schools (COBIS). Based in a purpose built premises in Wilanow BSW is accepting applications from Nursery to Year 9. Please email admissions@ bswilanow.org to organise a visit .

THE BRITISH SCHOOL WARSAW

Premium international school established in 1992 by Nord Anglia Education. The curriculum is designed to provide the highest academic quality of education. They follow the English National Curriculum, adapted to the needs of their international student community: from Primary through to the Secondary Key Stages to the IGCSE examinations and a well-established International Baccalaureate (IB) Diploma Program. ul. Limanowskiego 15, tel. 22 842 3281, thebritishschool.pl

THE ENGLISH PRIMARY

The English Primary is designed specifically for children in the

monnet international school

PADDINGTON BEAR KINDERGARTEN

IB World School no 001483

's ton B g n i d LU Pad EN'S C EN LDR CHI OW OP N

Education for a better world

Belwederska 6a, Warsaw

www.maturamiedzynarodowa.pl/przedszkole

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

primary education ages, just as children experience in England but in an international community. Pupils are taken through the key learning stages so that they can achieve to the best of their ability through a fun learning experience. The Core Curriculum subjects include English, Phonics, Science, Mathematics, French, PE and Swimming, Music, Personal, Social and Health Education. ul. Rzodkiewki 18, tel. 784

037 808, tep.edu.pl

THE CANADIAN SCHOOL OF WARSAW INTERNATIONAL ELEMENTARY AND MIDDLE SCHOOL

Located on two campuses in the Mokotów this is the only authorized IB School with PYP programs taught in English and Polish. French is taught as a third language. Offers a wide range of extra activities, a summer school, and employs a full time psychologist. Provision is made

for additional Polish and English support. International staff, cultural events and challenging student initiatives create the perfect learning environment. ul. Bełska 7, tel. 692 411 573 / 885 420 044, secretary@ canadian-school.pl or secretary. olimpijska@canadian-school.pl

THE INTERNATIONAL TRILINGUAL SCHOOL OF WARSAW

Established in 1994, The Trilingual School of Warsaw offers nursery, primary, and pre-school education with an international curriculum for children aged from one to 15. The full immersion trilingual setting allows for the choice between English, Polish, Spanish or Chinese, French or Japanese. Teachers are highly-qualified native speakers from the US, France, Spain, China and Japan. ul. Nobla 16 (tel. 501 036 637), ul. Karowa 14/16 (tel. 503 072 119), ul. Krolowej Aldony (tel. 533 321 084), office@3languages.pl, itsw.edu.pl

JOY PRIMARY SCHOOL

Treating pupils with mutual respect but not at the expense of being demanding, the methods used are hard on the problem but soft on the person. Taking into account what students think, feel, learn and want for themselves and their world, Joy Primary teaches important life skills as well as respect, care for others, problem solving and co-operation. Here, children are challenged to discover their abilities and competences, while encouraged to explore personal strength and autonomy. ul. Syta 131A, tel. 722 305 333, sekretariat@joyprimaryschool.pl

MONNET INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL Located in Mokotów, the Monnett is the only school in Poland that implements the International Baccalaureate Program from kindergarten level all the way through to secondary school.

Accepting applications for Nursery to Year 9 bsw.com.pl +48 221 110 062 ul. Hlonda 12, Warsaw admissions@bswilanow.org

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The fully-qualified staff are committed to delivering only the highest standards of education.

ul. Stępińska 13, tel. 22 852 06 08, maturamiedzynarodowa.pl

museums, embassies and natural settings which provide students with learning outside the classroom. ul. Szwoleżerów 4 (grades 0-4), tel. 608 488 420, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI MIDDLE SCHOOL

WARSAW MONTESSORI SCHOOL

A leader in the field of Montessori education, well-trained teachers guide students to independent and successful learning with both English and bilingual classroom provided. Located just steps from Łazienki Park the school resides in vibrant surroundings near to

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

Guided by trained specialists, students are responsible for managing their household, operating small businesses, caring for local flora and fauna as well as domesticated animals, taking charge of the younger children and much more. “Adolescence Program” activities, integrated with academic studies, help students discover their inner strength to meet real life challenges. ul.

Tatrzańska 5A (grades 5-8), tel. 604

137 826, wmf.edu.pl

WARSAW MONTESSORI HIGH SCHOOL

Warsaw Montessori High School aims to teach students the values which Maria Montessori outlined in her educational philosophy such as: responsibility for one’s own development, care for others, honesty, empathy, and service. The school continues to meet the principles of Maria Montessori through implementing the IB Diploma Program principles and practices. Warsaw Montessori High School is an authorized IB World School for the Diploma Programme – code 061201. ul.

Pytlasińskiego 13A, tel. 787 095 835, wmf.edu.pl

shopping ARKADIA

Not many Polish malls do it better. Stores inc. Mango, Lacoste, Guess, Hilfiger and Peek & Cloppenburg. Al.

Jana Pawła II 82, arkadia.com.pl

DESIGNER OUTLET WARSZAWA

office, the line-up includes Scandinavian fashion in Cos, shoes from My Paris, unconventional fashion from Nenukko and more. ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

VITKAC WOLF BRACKA

Poland’s first luxury department store gathers the world’s top designers under one roof, with

brands including Alexander McQueen, Louis Vuitton, Stella McCartney and Rick Owens. ul. Bracka 9, likusconcept-

store.pl

ZŁOTE TARASY

Over 200 stores, restaurants and cafes, plus the Multikino cinema and the Pure Jatomi Health and Fitness Club. ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

Offering year-round discounts ranging from 30-70%, discover over 130 designer brands within a stunning complex designed to effect the look of Warsaw’s Baroque historic center. Labels include Lacoste, Made in M (with MaxMara, Marella, Max&Co. and Pennyblack), Marc O’Polo, Swarovski, Tous and Twinset. ul. Puławska 42E, design-

eroutletwarszawa.pl

GALERIA MOKOTÓW

Stores inc. Calvin Klein, Hollister, Hugo Boss, New Balance, Royal Collection and Timberland. ul.

Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl

GALERIA PÓŁNOCNA

Ursula von Rydingsvard Tylko sztuka Nothing but Art

Białołęka’s first major shopping center includes Poland’s first outpost of Hamley’s, as well as stores such as Forever 21, Lagerfeld and Guess. ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl

KLIF HOUSE OF FASHION

Warsaw’s original luxury shopping center has a line-up of top boutiques that include Max Mara, Paul & Shark and Pinko. ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl

05.10.2021–13.02.2022 Muzeum Łazienki Królewskie The Royal Łazienki Museum Stara Oranżeria The Old Orangery

Puławska 2, placunii.pl

MYSIA 3

Set in Poland’s former censorship

Doﬁnansowano ze środków Ministra Kultury, Dziedzictwa Narodowego i Sportu w ramach zadania: Organizacja wystawy Ursuli von Rydingsvard w Polsce Funded by the Ministry of Culture, National Heritage and Sports. Covering the costs of organizing an Ursula van Rydingsvard’s exhibition in Poland

Wystawa realizowana dzięki uprzejmości Ursuli von Rydingsvard i Galerie Lelong & Co., Nowy Jork. Exhibition courtesy of Ursula von Rydingsvard and Galerie Lelong & Co., New York

Mecenas Muzeum Patron of the Museum

One of Warsaw’s latest mall counts Armani Jeans, Liu-Jo and Pandora amongst its upmarket tenants. ul.

Współorganizatorzy Co-organizers

PLAC UNII

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THE MAGNIFICENT SEVEN!

Warsaw’s rich history and cultural significance has left it with no shortage of museums to visit. Offering a well-rounded view of the city’s past and present, these are the seven you just shouldn’t miss… FRYDERYK CHOPIN MUSEUM

The 18th century Ostrogski Palace is the perfect foil for the ultra-modern content of this multi-sensory space. The personal items are captivating (his death mask, gifts from his muse, etc.), but the big victory here is the museum’s ability to suck visitors right back into the times of Chopin through the use of interactive sights and sounds. ul. Okólnik 1, chopin.

museum

MUSEUM OF LIFE UNDER COMMUNISM

A deeply personal insight into the former system by allowing visitors to view what Communism meant to the everyday person. Here, rifle and

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

rummage through a room mockedup to resemble a typical household apartment, watch propaganda films, peer inside a phone box, paw at vintage keep-fit gear or covet the ladies fashions of the time. Detailed in its captions, witty in its presentation and comprehensive in its content, it is a place where normal items such as aftershave bottles, postcards, clothing and crude household appliances are allowed to shine on a totem and tell their own story. A haven of trinkets and collectibles, its small size belies its utter magic. ul.

Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl

MUSEUM OF WARSAW

Reprised as a maze-like treasure filled trove glimmering with

curiosities, thousands of objects have been gathered here to detail the story of Warsaw in a non-linear style that can at times feel overwhelming. Peculiar souvenirs, scale models, old postcards and recovered works of art all combine with a mass of trivia to leave visitors boggled with knowledge. The vertiginous views of the Rynek below are worth the admission alone. Rynek Starego Miasta 28-42,

muzeumwarszawy.pl

NATIONAL MUSEUM

Famed for its collection of Dutch and Flemish masters, it’s also the final word in Polish art, with all the greats represented – inc. Matejko, Witkiewicz and other such stars.

That’s reason enough for many, but for others the museum’s ace card was revealed at the end of 2017 with the opening of the Gallery of Polish Design. Offering a full 360 view of Polish 20th century applied arts, it’s an aesthetic joy featuring everything from iconic PRL era wall units and tulip chairs to kitschy toys and gizmos. Frankly, it’s a stunning museum that just keeps getting better – though delayed by covid, the start of the year saw the world class Gallery of Ancient Art added to the mix. Featuring 1,800 ancient relics, papyrus scrolls, Iranian golden masks and even an Egyptian mummy! Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl

NEON MUSEUM

Playing a key role in the government’s attempts to fuse socialist ideology with consumerism, the campaign to ‘neon-ize’ Poland saw gloomy cities still bearing the scars of war boldly gleam once more under lights designed and produced by many of the leading

artisans of the time. Salvaged from the scrapheap (in many instances, literally), this museum was created by Ilona Karwinska and David Hill who inadvertently kickstarted a nationwide trend and reignited the country’s appetite for neon. Housing several dozen neons that once lit up Poland, these renovated signs make for Warsaw’s coolest attraction: Instagram them now! ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

POLIN

Composed of eight galleries, this architectural marvel covers different stages of local Jewish history, from the middle ages to the present day. Highlights of this museum include a staggeringly beautiful replica of the ceiling of Gwoździec synagogue, and a ‘remake’ of a typical inter-war Jewish Warsaw street. That it was named the European Museum of the Year in 2016 such much for its ambitions to focus on more than the Holocaust alone. ul.

Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

THE WARSAW RISING MUSEUM

If the throngs and sheer informational overload can often be daunting, it remains the most important museum in the capital, and quite arguably the country. Points of interest are rife and include a life-size replica of a B-24 Liberator plane as well as a claustrophobic ‘sewage tunnel’ through which visitors squeeze to get an idea of the kind of conditions combatants once faced. But it’s not the A-list sights that make the biggest impact, rather the smaller, highly personal curios: a pair of wedding bands forged from bullets; an Omega watch, it’s hands frozen at the same moment a bomb killed its owner; and a lucky cuddly mascot made from a German overcoat. Of course, the aftermath is also covered in heartrending detail and concludes with a 3D film that takes viewers swooping over the smoldering ruins of the capital. ul. Grzybowska

79, 1944.pl

warsawinsider.pl

museums CAR MUSEUM

Home to over 300 vehicles, displays include WWII trucks and tanks, a Ford Thunderbird, Russian-made Volgas, Wałęsa’s bullet-proof Volvo, a ZIS 110 Cabriolet once used to carry Yuri Gagarin, and Gierek’s Cadillac Fleetwood. ul. Warszawska 21 (Otrębusy)

Marie SkłodowskaCurie Museum

ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM

A visual pleasure that showcases colorful costumes, fabrics and ceramics from Poland and beyond. And those assuming an ethnographic museums lack punch are in for a surprise: exhibitions are brilliant in their scope, wit and quirkiness and have included explorations of the Disco Polo genre, Hungarian erotica, iconic streetwear, etc.ul. Kredytowa

1, ethnomuseum.pl

THE HERITAGE INTERPRETATION CENTER

Zachęta National Art Gallery

This small venue tells the complex story of Old Town’s reconstruction: if the first section about Warsaw’s physical elimination is poignant, then the others do a fabulous job of sharing the optimism and alacrity that followed. ul. Brzozowa 11-13,

mhw.pl

JEWISH HISTORICAL INSTITUTE

Officially opened in 1947 the Jewish Historical Institute was created to serve as an archive of Jewish culture in Warsaw. It contains artwork, historical artifacts and important documents from the city’s rich Jewish past. ul. Tłomackie 3/5, jhi.pl

Copernicus Science Centre

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

MUSEUM OF DOLL HOUSES, GAMES & TOYS

Formerly found inside PKiN, this beautiful treasure features spectacularly crafted doll houses that provide

a stunning ‘freeze frame’ into the past. Now, the collection has been boosted by the addition of toys and games, many of which are from the PRL era. ul. Krzywe Koło 2/4

MUSEUM OF PRAGA

The Praga Museum tells the story of the area with such charm and simplicity that it manages to leave an unlikely impression that’s as punchy as that of the big institutions. Star billing goes to a restored Jewish prayer room and the Flying Carpet: an exhibit festooned with various trinkets and treasures once available for purchase from local pavement traders. ul. Targowa 50/52, muzeumwarszawy.pl

PALMIRY NATIONAL MEMORIAL MUSEUM

An excellent multimedia exhibition set next to a cemetery holding the graves of 1,700 Poles executed in the first years of Nazi occupation. The museum tells their forgotten story as well as that of the siege and subsequent occupation of Warsaw. Palmiry, palmiry.mhw.pl

PAWIAK

What was once a Tsarist prison assumed a doubly sinister function under the Nazis. Some 100,000 Polish political prisoners were held here, 37,000 of which were executed on-site. Split in two sections, cells are found on one side, while on the other the full story of the invasion and occupation. ul. Dzielna 24/26

POLISH VODKA MUSEUM

The Polish Vodka Museum features five thematic rooms that do a slick and entertaining job of documenting the national tipple. Highpoints number a smart collection of salvaged bottles and an interactive room in which visitors learn can test their knowledge on a quiz machine and strap on some trippy goggles to experience the effects of being

completely sloshed. Pl. Konesera 1, muzeumpolskiejwodki.pl

THE ROYAL CASTLE IN WARSAW

Highlights include the lavishly restored 18th century royal apartments with 22 paintings by Canaletto, the Senators’ Chamber in which the Constitution of the Third of May was signed, the biggest collection of oriental rugs in Europe and two remarkable Rembrandt paintings. Pl. Zamkowy 4, zamekkrolewski.pl

TRAIN MUSEUM

Inside, find 200 scale models of locomotives and steam engines, some beautifully detailed model villages and all kinds of train related ephemera: clocks, timetables, uniforms, etc. Top billing goes to a 1942 German armored artillery train, and the walnut-clad personal wagon once used by Poland’s first post-war leader, Bolesław Bierut. ul. Towarowa 3, stacjamuzeum.pl

experiences COPERNICUS SCIENCE CENTRE

Zillions of interactive exhibits allow visitors to experience an earthquake, walk on the moon, look at the world through the eyes of a snake and discover if your partner’s a good liar – and that’s the tip of the iceberg. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 20

FOTOPLASTIKON

Thought to date from 1905, Warsaw’s Fotoplastikon generates 3D perspectives from a set of 2D images: visitors peer through an eyepiece and are taken on a trip around the world while music from days yore parps away in the background. Al. Jerozolimskie 51,

fotoplastikonwarszawski.pl

PARK MINIATUR

Ghosting around the city, the spectacular miniature park now has a new home! Find magnificently detailed 1:25 scale models of Warsaw’s vanished, pre-war architectural treasures. ul. Marszał-

kowska 105

galleries CENTER OF CONTEMPORARY ART (CSW) Though their message stands to get a little more conservative with the recent appointment of a new director, its likely this will remain one of the leading gallery spaces in Poland – and even if not, just creeping around the corridors of this baroque castle is a thrill in itself. ul. Jazdów 2, u-jazdowski.pl

DOM SPOTKAŃ Z HISTORIĄ

The History Meeting House wins points for small but frequently excellent exhibitions that cover topics such as ‘rebuilding Warsaw’ and ‘Socialist Realist architecture.’ ul.

Karowa 20, dsh.waw.pl

MUSEUM ON THE VISTULA

Previously used to temporarily house Berlin’s Kunsthalle, this riverfront pavilion has seen a number of edgy contemporary exhibitions including, most recently, one dedicated to the works of Miriam Cahn. ul. Wybrzeże Kościuszkowskie 22, artmuseum.pl

ZACHĘTA GALLERY

Consistently challenging our perception of “what art is”, the Zachęta’s reputation precedes itself: a bastion of contemporary art, its ever-changing lineup of exhibitions have presented a range of Polish and international artists. Always on-edge, this is arguably the most famous gallery in the country. Pl. Małachowskiego 3, zacheta.art.pl

warsawinsider.pl

Praga Zoo

10 ki aw

Powązki Cemetery

Andersa

7 Jewish Cemetery

6 Old Town

5 1

2 ska kow

szał Mar

4 9 km

ska bow

Grzy

4 a zysk tokr Swie

Pros

skie

olim eroz

Palace of Culture & Science

Al. J

8 2

Łazienki Park

1 19 km

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

3 4 km

MAP 5

shopping exeriences 1

Designer Outlet Warszawa ul. Puławska 42E, designeroutletwarszawa.pl 2

Elektrownia Powiśle ul. Dobra 42, elektrowniapowisle.com National Stadium

Galeria Mokotów ul. Wołoska 12, galeriamokotow.com.pl 4

Galeria Północna ul. Światowida 17, galeriapolnocna.pl 5

Klif House of Fashion ul. Okopowa 58/72, klif.pl 6

Koneser Pl. Konesera, koneser.eu 7

Plac Unii ul. Puławska 2, placunii.pl 8

Mysia 3 ul. Mysia 3, mysia3.pl

Vitkac ul. Bracka 9, likusconceptstore.pl 10

Westfield Arkadia Al. Jana Pawła II 82, pl.westfield.com/arkadia 11

Złote Tarasy ul. Złota 59, zlotetarasy.pl

museums 1

National Museum Al. Jerozolimskie 3, mnw.art.pl.pl 2

The Warsaw Rising Museum ul. Grzybowska 79, 1944.pl

Museum of Warsaw Rynek Starego Miasta 2842, muzeumwarszawy.pl 7

POLIN ul. Anielewicza 6, polin.pl

stores 1

Moliera 2 Boutique ul. Moliera 2, moliera2.com 2

Pl. Trzech Krzyży 3/4 Krzyży 3/4, plactrzechkrzyzy.com

Museum of Life Under Communism ul. Piękna 28/34, mzprl.pl 4

Fryderyk Chopin Museum ul. Okólnik 1, chopin. museum 5

Neon Museum ul. Mińska 25 (Soho Factory), neonmuzeum.org

warsawinsider.pl

To Do List

WARSAW BEER FESTIVAL

October 7th – 9th Legia Stadium, warszawskifestiwalpiwa.pl

Poland’s biggest beer festival is baaaack! Last held two-years ago, the super-size event promises to be the best one yet – and certainly the most awaited. Presenting around 60 craft brewers from home and abroad, we’ve been told to expect around 450 taps serving 1,000 different beers. As always, there’ll be food trucks, table football tournaments, pinball machines, lectures, tasting sessions and panel discussions. One-day passes are priced zł. 15 and three-day tickets at zł. 25.

WARSAW FILM FESTIVAL

This October, block your diary for three of Warsaw’s best-loved events…

Warsaw Insider | OCTOBER 2021

WARSAW CHOPIN COMPETITION

October 2nd – 23rd Philharmonic Concert Hall, chopin2020.pl

Regarded as one of Poland’s most important musical events, the Chopin Competition returns for its 18th installment since being first founded in 1932. So say the organizers: “in addition to its enormous role in popularizing Chopin’s music, the festival aims to unearth the greatest pianistic talents, providing young musicians with the most effective start in their international career.”

Starting out in 2000 in front of audiences that barely numbered a dozen foreign guests, the Warsaw Film Festival has since developed to become one of Poland’s best-known cultural festivals – something that was recognized globally when, in 2009, the WFF became one of 14 international film fests to be endorsed by the International Federation of Film Producers Association. This year, the festival will kick-off with a screening of Jessica Kingdon’s Ascension before concluding with The Perfect David directed by Felipe Gómez Aparicio.

PRESS MATERIAL

SAVE THE DATE!

Oct 8th – 17th Kinoteka & Multikino Złote Tarasy, wff.pl

Warsaw Insider October 2021 #302

Articles inside

Otwock sanatorium

Aerial photography

Neons of Elektrownia