THE GARMENT DISTRICT: WOVEN INTO THE FABRIC OF LIFE BY ELISE TECCO
From the MET Gala to Fashion Week, New York has certainly made its mark as one of the fashion capitals of the world. It’s estimated that the fashion industry is worth 3 trillion dollars worldwide according to Fashion United, and along with European fashion leaders like London, Milan and Paris, New York’s impact on apparel is legendary. The Garment District in Manhattan has been known as the center for fashion manufacturing and design since the early 20th century. Also called the Fashion District, this area of midManhattan is now home to the Fashion Institute of Technology and the Fashion Walk of Fame, not to mention numerous fabric stores. To appreciate its significance, let’s look back at its complex history to see why New York’s famous Garment District has the greatest concentration of fashion designers in the country. Before it became the Garment District, this neighborhood of Manhattan was notorious for a much different reason. Nicknamed “Tenderloin” and “Devil’s Arcade,” it was home to the greatest concentration of prostitutes in the United States. An influx of theatres, hotels and casinos in the area contributed to lively nightlife and, as a result, an illegal sex trade. The garment industry was growing faster than any other in the city between 1828 and 1858, strengthened by the invention of the sewing machine. In fact, the government looked to manufacturers in NYC for uniforms during the Civil War. By the early 20th century, a majority of the immigrants in NYC were Eastern European Jews, many of whom were skilled in commerce and textile production. Of all the immigrant groups arriving in the U.S. at that time, Jewish people had the highest proportion of skilled workers. The skills of these workers perfectly matched the developing industry, and by 1910, the textile business included 46% of the industrial labor force in the city, according to garmentdistrict.nyc. As hundreds of thousands of immigrant workers were living and working in the Garment District, real estate developers were helping to transform the neighborhood. Brownstones used for illegal bordellos were replaced with garment lofts, and the theaters and seedy nightlife began to disappear. By WWII, New York replaced Paris as the fashion capital of the
world, and the Garment District was the city’s single largest employer. Nevertheless, the industry still struggled through the 40’s and 50’s because of competition for cheaper production in other parts of the world. Fast forward to the present day, and the Garment District still remains the center for fashion in NYC. Casey Miller, a third-year student in the Fashion Design AAS program at the Fashion Institute of Technology, admits to having a ‘love/hate relationship’ with the Garment District. Situated between Times Square, Penn Station and Herald Square, the area is crammed with tourists. But the beauty is the hidden gems you will find along the way. “Buildings upon buildings are full of fabric stores, button shops, hidden pattern-making studios, designer studios and boutiques…It can be overwhelming at first, but exploring is the best thing to do. The area is full of ideas, opportunity and creativity,” says Miller. The Garment District has grown significantly over the years, but one thing remains the same — the community feeling. Miller explains that everyone you pass has the same passion for the fashion industry and the struggle to break in. The people are what make living there so special. “An associate stayed and kept a store open late for me once because I was in desperate need to get supplies for a class and everything was closed,” says Miller. If you’re planning to visit this historic and vibrant area of Manhattan, be sure to stop in Miller’s favorite fabric and sewing tool store, Steinlauf & Stroller. Then go directly next door to Mood Fabrics (fans of “Project Runway”…sound familiar?). There’s even a guided walking tour that takes you to the local fashion scene hangouts and landmarks as well as to wholesale showrooms where you will meet a fashion designer or two! In a matter of blocks, you will realize how far the Garment District has come. The immigrants infused this once-gritty district with people passionate about fashion. The neighborhood is much more than the commerce it produces — it is a community that inspires.
