VAMP LUXURY ISSUE02 by VAMP MAGAZINE

LUXURYEDITION

APRIL ‘2016

#02

THE ICONIC CAR

Elegance is an attitude Kate Winslet

02 L U X U R Y I S S U E

Longines DolceVita

SCHOLL SPRING SUMMER 2016

THE POINT, TIGNE / THE PLAZA SHOPPING CENTRE, SLIEMA / VALLETTA / MOSTA / FGURA / VICTORIA, GOZO. SCHOLLFOOTHEALTHCENTRE.COM

TIME IS WHAT YOU MAKE OF IT Introducing Swiss-Made luxury - 88 RUE DU RHONE harnesses centuries of watchmaking experience. The number ‘8’ is key for the brand - considered a lucky number and symbolising good fortune, ambition and power. 88 RUE DU RHONE balances Swiss-Made excellence with contemporary design, artistry and innovation at every stage of design and manufacture.

| 87WA154205

locations SLIEMA | VALLETTA

[ APRIL ISSUE ]

INSIDE#2 019. URBAN TRIBE VIBE

WHAT IS LUXURY?

Colours and textures sorted by Calvin Klein and Tommy Hilfiger as wardrobes begin to shift into lighter wear.

Alina Anisimova explores the fashion luxuries of modern times.

039. CREATING CAVESSON’S

From crafting the collection to designing the pristine packaging, designer and businessman Mark Lightfoot talks Vamp Luxury through the intricate and exciting process of bringing his luxury range of men’s leather goods to market.

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042 ROMANTIC SUMMER

The romantic makeup look is in the summer with soft feline tropical eyes, luminous skin, and plump pink and peachy lips.

046. ALLISON’S ART

Professional Makeup Artist Allison Depriestre talks to VAMP about her love of texture, working with imperfections, and the launch of Vichy’s new Dermablend 3D Correction.

054 COVER SHOT: JEWELLERY: DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL CLOTHING: MAXMARA SHIRT, TOMMY HILFIGER TROUSERS SPONSORED: BY FRANKS

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S/S 016: WHITE HOT

VOGUE 100: A CENTURY OF STYLE

A celebration of 100 years of cutting-edge fashion, beauty and portrait photography by British Vogue at the National Portrait Gallery, London.

Embrace the season’s fresh whites. This spring is all about minimal lines and an effortless attitude.

Editorial: Luxury Editorial Team Art Director: Chris Psaila Designer: Jonathan Bajada Fashion Editor: Carla Grima Stylists: Luke Engerer, Carla Grima Photographers: Kris Micallef, Matthew Spiteri Director/Sales: Sam Psaila - 7788 0300 Printers: Print It

052. THE ART OF LEGACY

Pia Zammit talks to Malcolm Lowell, Managing Director of Edwards Lowell, about what’s going on in the world of the most luxurious watch brands this year.

060 VEGAN LOGIC

Dr Ilan Goldberg eradicates some veganism myths and explains how to have a good vegan diet.

076. THE LAKE HOUSE

Interior Designer Igor Sirotov achieves a luxurious home interior, using only black and white.

088. CUISINE: BLACK AND WHITE DELIGHT Corinthia Palace Chefs Stefan Hogan, Jonathan Zammit and Mark Mc Bride bring Luxury Vamp a striking black and white affair.

092. SWEET ON CHARLOTTE STREET

Recently refurbished, The Charlotte Street Hotel in the centre of media-savvy Bloomsbury epitomises London life.

Contributors: Alina Anisimova, Lisa Borain, Jennifer Dimech, Ilan Goldberg, Carla Grima, Stefan Hogan, Robert Maxwell, Mark Mc Bride, Igor Sirotov, Jonathan Zammit, Reproduction in whole or in part without written permission from the publisher is prohibited. All rights reserved. Dates, information and prices are believed to be correct at the time of going to press but are subject to change and no responsibility is accepted for any errors or omissions. Neither the editor nor the publisher accept responsibility for any material submitted, whether photographic or otherwise. While we endeavour to ensure that the organisations and firms mentioned are reputable. The editor can give no guarantee that they will fulfill their obligations under all circumstances. Copyright 2016

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TOWER ROAD, SLIEMA | ZACHARY STREET, VALLETTA |

/OASISFASHIONSMALTA

[ APRIL ISSUE ]

his second issue of Luxury Vamp is the embodiment of living beautifully. The edition begins with a travel-inspired fashion feature, while the main fashion this issue is White Hot, embracing the season’s fresh whites. On top of this, it’s going to be a romantic summer with glowing skin and pink-inspired neutrals in makeup, while hair is all about that loose plait with flowing strands. Some interesting interviews take place this issue, with Malcolm Lowell discussing what’s going on in the world of the most luxurious watch brands this year, while Mark Lightfoot talks about the intricate and exciting process of bringing Cavesson’s, the luxury range of men’s leather goods, to the market. A feast for the eyes, Luxury Vamp features the exhibition currently taking place at the National Portrait Gallery in London:Vogue 100 A Century of Style. This issue is based on white meets black, which is prominently apparent in the architectural section, as well as the outstanding cuisine section. The Vamp team is delighted to welcome on board the new fashion editor, Carla Grima. Carla is Malta’s very own fashion designer and maker with Carla Grima Atelier, which is the fashion studio with the single vision of capturing nature’s luxury. Welcome to the team Carla!

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[ A P R I L U P D AT E ]

NEWS TO MUSE.

Exciting seasonal happenings and things to explore.

Fashion

Beverages

TOMMY HILFIGER ACCESSORIES

SATISFYING DESIRES

Tommy Hilfiger has just opened a dedicated Tommy Hilfiger accessories store at The Point, Sliema. The store showcases the latest Tommy Hilfiger accessories collections for men and women including footwear, bags and wallets. The store’s bespoke interior fuses the brand’s Americana heritage with clean, modern finishes and a bright, airy aesthetic.

Wine cafe

As the newest member to the family, Chivas Regal Extra will satisfy the desires of the discerning whisky drinker with something exceptional – deep in aromas, rich in fruitiness and generous in sweetness. It’s created with an exceptional blend of rare whiskies combined with Malt Whiskies aged in sherry casks from the Oloroso sherry bodegas in Spain. Marketed & distributed by Farsons Beverage Imports Co Ltd. T: 2381 4400.

Organic

C&S WINE CAFE The new C&S Wine Café at the Vivaldi Hotel in St Julians represents the third C&S Wine Café to be opened in Malta since the first was launched at the Cleland & Souchet flagship outlet in Portomaso in 2013. The concept of the C&S Wine Café is that of a “chic café by day” and “stylish wine bar by night”, offering a menu of light and healthy meals, and classic hot dishes, to their signature platters to share. The C&S Wine Café brand has made great emphasis on offering an exceptional cup of coffee, but also on offering a selection of at least 20 wines by the glass. Open all week, from 9am till late. T: 2137 7012 / 9999 6161.

CERTIFIED ORGANIC FRUIT & VEG InCampagna offers a high quality product range straight from Sicily’s fertile land at competitive prices. Their fresh fruit and vegetables are certified organic, whilst other products including wine, preserves, chocolates, soaps, creams, etc are 100% natural and chemical free. They offer free home delivery so order online at www.incampagna.com.mt, email info@incampagna.com.mt or call 7930 5590.

Dance

BALLET INTENSIVE Sandrina Spiteri-Gonzi, Founder & Artistic Director of Ballet Intensive International is holding the 3rd year of Ballet Intensive International this summer with guest teachers from The Royal Opera House and Birmingham Royal Ballet. This year’s Ballet Intensive will take place from 25th July to 5th August 2016 at the Mediterranean Conference Centre. This year they have added a number of new and exciting changes to the programme, amongst introducing a Dancers Member Scheme. T: 9958 2846. E: info@balletintensiveinternational.com. W: www.balletintensiveinternational.com

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SLIEMA 46-48 Tower Road Tel. 21 341 961

[ S/S–16 TRENDS ]

FASHION BEAUTY

F r e s h w h i t e , m i n i m a l l i n e s & a n e f fo r t l e s s a t t i t u d e > R o m a n t i c summer makeup > Allison’s art

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PERFUME

INVICTUS

Inhale the scent of victory with Invictus, the new masculine fragrance by Paco Rabanne. This sensual and fresh scent depicts a modern vision of masculinity; an unexpected clash of worlds and sensations. It’s an astonishing encounter between two blocs: the refreshing top notes of grapefruit and the sensual heart notes of guaiac wood and patchouli. A truly magnetic woody-aquatic scent which embodies masculine strength. From Ta’Xbiex Perfumery. Tel: 2133 1553

NINA POP

Nina Ricci is honouring the 10th anniversary of its marvellous Nina perfume. To mark the celebration, the legendary apple designed bottle has been presented in a new, fun artistic style, showcasing its psychedelic polka dots. The scent includes top notes of Caipirinha lime and Calabrese lemon, and heart notes of red toffee apple, moonflower and peony petals, while in the foundation is white cedar, apple tree wood and cotton musk. Exclusively distributed by Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553.

L’HOMME IDEAL

L’Homme Ideal Guerlain offers three adjectives for the three accords of this fresh, woody fragrance: smart, handsome, strong. From X-Treme Co Ltd. Tel: 2388 2000.

DOLCE ROSA EXCELSA

Following the floral tradition initiated by Dolce, the new Dolce Rosa Excelsa Eau de Parfum captures the boldness and pure spirit of the rose with the essence of fresh petals in bloom. Used for the first time in perfumery, the African Dog Rose premieres, which is a rare note combined with the enveloping femininity of the Turkish Rose Absolute, highly-prized in perfumery for its olfactive intensity. Iconic, timeless and unique, the rose is a recurrent motif throughout Dolce&Gabbana’s runway collections. VJ Salomone Marketing. T: 8007 2387.

POUDRE

Unseen and illusive, Valentina Poudre lightly wraps the body in an intimate, passionate mist, making it so much more sensuous, feminine and noticeable. Valentina Poudre, the new perfume by Valentino, places an elegant veil of ethereal notes upon the substance of the senses. Through the creation of this scent, Valentino brings the makeup idea to perfumes, changing the aroma into an unseen transpire of the Maison’s world of beauty. Exclusively distributed from Ta’Xbiex Perfumery Ltd. Tel: 2133 1553

OLYMPEA

Paco Rabanne has launched the new feminine fragrance under the mythical name of Olympéa. Olympéa represents the equivalent of the masculine edition Invictus, inspired by the athletic spirit, competition and victory. The concept is based on the idea of a modern Greek goddess and evokes strength, dynamism and conquests. From Ta’Xbiex Perfumery. Tel: 2133 1553

TERRACOTTA

Guerlain Terracotta Le Parfum is an interpretation of the legendary powder as a fragrance by in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser. The scent has a sensual composition, exotic and luminous, inspired by the radiant realm of Terracotta. From X-Treme Co Ltd. Tel: 2388 2000.

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REPUBLIC STREET, VALLETTA THE POINT, SLIEMA

1 Men’s Trends – S/S 2016

Calvin Klein Jeans denim shirt, €119. Calvin Klein Jeans grey zip-up hoodie, €159. Hilfiger Denim black trousers, €99.90. Calvin Klein Jeans yellow sandals, €48.

UR B AN T RI B E VI B E. AS WARDROBES BEGIN TO SHIFT INTO LIGHTER WEAR, CALVIN KLEIN JEANS, TOMMY HILFIGER & HILFIGER DENIM HAVE GOT YOUR COLOURS AND TEXTURES SORTED. GET A HEAD START WITH THESE INSPIRING LOOKS TO LIVEN UP YOUR URBAN THREADS.

Photography: Matthew B Spiteri Styling: Carla Grima Hair: Toni&Guy Makeup: Jennifer Dimech Model: Zack from Models M

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2 EYE FOR DETAIL Tommy Hilfiger brown leather shoes, €179.90. Tommy Hilfiger tan belt, €39.90. Tommy Hilfiger leather bracelet, €89. Tommy Hilfiger watch, €175. Calvin Klein Jeans white chinos, €119. Hilfiger Denim polkadot denim shirt, €99.90. Tommy Hilfiger striped bag, €199.90. Hilfiger Denim striped jumper, €89.90.

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LAYER LOVER Calvin Klein Jeans white shorts, €61. Hilfiger Denim striped t-shirt, €39.90. Calvin Klein Jeans grey denim shirt, €119. Calvin Klein Jeans blue jacket, €159. Tommy Hilfiger white watch, €175. Tommy Hilfiger black rectangle bag, €149. Calvin Klein Jeans black sandals, €48.

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The Point, Sliema calvinklein.com

prowl

FKA twigs, Artist

S/S –16 TRENDS

Photography: Matthew B Spiteri Styling: Carla Grima

Hilfiger Denim brown leather bag, €139.90. Hilfiger Denim grey espadrills, €49.90. Hilfiger Denim brown suede brogues, €139.90. Hilfiger Denim blue suede shoes, €129.90. Hilfiger Denim brown leather shoes, €179.90. Hilfiger Denim socks, €12.99 p er pack. Matthew Camilleri brown vintage hand luggage. Matthew Camilleri navy blue vintage hand luggage. Mont Blanc pen from Diamonds International, €600. Mont Blanc leather case from Diamonds International, €680 . Cavesson’s blue medina card case, €106. Cavesson’s candover card case, €169. Cavesson’s arun coat wallet from cavessons.com, €262. Guess sunglasses from sunlab, €149. Chopard silk twill tie from Edwards & Lowell, €222. Du Pont orange chrome lighter from Edwards & Lowell, €100. Hublot black ceramic watch from Edwards & Lowell, €15,500.

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S/S –16 TRENDS

F UN S OP H I STI C ATI O N . > Carla Grima Atelier white linen shirt, €80. Cartier Calibre Diver steel & gold watch from Diamonds International, €10,625. Calvin Klein Jeans black denim trousers, €129. Persol sunglasses from Class / Optica Opticians, €258. Cavesson’s blue leather tillingham bag from cavessons.com, €870. Calvin Klein Jeans black sandals, €48.

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S/S –16 TRENDS

PARADISE PACKING. 028 L U X U R Y I S S U E

Photography: Matthew B Spiteri Styling: Carla Grima

Coccinelle silver arletti bag, €360. Coccinelle green bucket bag, €220. Coccinelle printed scarf, €45. Chopard coral calfskin bag from Edwards & Lowell, €1,180. DuPont zebra printed lighter, from Edwards & Lowell, €100. DuPont yellow jet pen from Edwards & Lowell, €90. Schoeffel tahiti sea and south sea pearl from Edwards & Lowell, starting from €5,000. Chopard steel/rose gold watch with floating diamonds from Edwards & Lowell, €14,630. Chanel J12 ceramic watch from Diamonds International €15, 750. Earings 18ct with diamonds €5,700, Novecento Novanta Nove 18ct with diamonds bracelet from Diamonds International, €10,025. Calvin Klein Jeans metallic sneakers, €138. Calvin Klein Jeans grey monochrome sweater, €139. Dolce & Gabana sunglasses from Class / Vision Opticians, €590. Tom Ford architectural sunglasses from Sunlab, €265. Matthew Camilleri vintage blue suitcase. Matthew Camilleri hand luggage. Matthew Camilleri vintage tan suitcase. Carla Grima Atelier silk satin kimono top, €170.

11, TOWER ROAD, SLIEMA

S/S –16 TRENDS

Photography: Matthew B Spiteri Styling: Carla Grima

A VINTAGE VIBE >

Calzedonia black/ tropical print bikini, €30 (top)| €15 (bottoms). Calzedonia white crochet playsuit, €29.50. Coccinelle green leather clutch, €160. Oasis deep orange t-shirt, €22. Oasis grey chinos, €63. Warehouse@ Debenhams floral dress, €66. Skagen watch from Sunlab, €129. Carla Grima Atelier silk chiffon scarf, €75. Ottaviani long pearl necklace from La Bottega, €148. Ottaviani chandelier earrings from La Bottega, €58. Ottaviani choker from La Bottega, €183.

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WHITE HOT–S/S’16

WHITE HOT Photography: Kris Micallef Styling: Luke Engerer Model: Claire from Supernova Models Make-up: Chris from FRANKS using Guerlain Hair: Toni&Guy Location: “NOX” - the reinforced concrete equinox-sundial, built by Year III Architecture students

EMBRACE THE SEASON’S FRESH WHITES. THIS SPRING IS ALL ABOUT MINIMAL LINES AND AN EFFORTLESS ATTITUDE. 032 L U X U R Y I S S U E

Prada sunglasses from Optika Sun&See, €281. Oasis cardigan, €38. Calzedonia trousers, €35.50.

Monsoon dress, â&#x201A;Ź265.

Karen Millen top, €135. Armani Jeans skirt, €130. La Bottega bangle, €74. Calzedonia tights, €5.95.

Cerruti top from Garbo, â&#x201A;Ź112. Damiani necklace from Diamonds International, â&#x201A;Ź13,250.

Ralph Lauren sunglasses from Vision B’kara, €289. MaxMara shirt, €160. Tommy hilfiger trousers, €149. Cocinelle bag, €170. Carrera y carrera ring from Diamonds International, €15,150. Calzedonia tights, €5.95.

Tommy Hilfiger sweatshirt, €119. Karen Millen skirt, €180. Cocinelle bag, €220. Calzedonia tights, €5.95.

Calzedonia dress, €39.50. La Bottega necklace, €190. Just Cavalli ring from VIP, €69.

Level -1, The Point Shopping Mall, Tigne, Sliema Tel: 20601068 - FB: Garbo Malta

DESIGN

[ CREATING...CAVESSON’S ] From crafting the collection to designing the pristine packaging, Designer and Businessman Mark Lightfoot talks Vamp Luxury through the intricate and exciting process of bringing his luxury range of men’s leather goods to market. Words: Robert Maxwell

Never judge a briefcase by its exterior. Who knows what magic could be lurking within? That’s exactly what I’m thinking as I gaze down at the briefcase Mark Lightfoot is holding. Soft and luxurious, it oozes all the character of a really good leather brand – but there’s more. Is that a flash of red as Mark reveals the bag’s lining? It is, and I love it. But more on that in a minute. Mark, who also co-founded well-known local branding agency Mangion & Lightfoot, talks passionately about the brand he has crafted from scratch. Cavesson’s is, he explains, the result of two years of work – and it all began at Heathrow airport. “I was making my way through security and going through the rigmarole of removing my jacket, shoes and belt when I realised I was wearing a belt with a detachable buckle. So, as that’s the part that needs to be scanned, I simply removed it, passed it through the machine and reattached it. I was struck by the idea of how quality items could actually be made more flexible using pops of colour and reversible designs for business travellers to use day-to-night. It felt like a light bulb had gone off in my head and I thought about the idea obsessively all the way home.” On his return, Mark became determined not to let the concept go to waste. He started to think about styles and designs, and found himself creating a smart collection for men. “After much coming and going with the designs, belts didn’t actually make it into the final collection after all,” he says with a smile. “Well, at least not yet.” What did make it in are beautiful briefcases, totes, laptop cases, wallets and cardholders, all made from the finest British bridle leather. “I was careful to source the very best raw materials,” he continues. “I came across a British leather company and went to visit their factory. It quickly became clear that their product – with its soft hides, rich hues and intoxicating smell – was the perfect match for what I had in mind. We then started work on a sample collection almost immediately.” Mark also developed the story behind his blossoming brand and added his own personal touch by injecting elements of his half-English, half-Maltese heritage.

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THE SUMMER KITCHEN RETURNS THIS MAY. With exotic new menus featuring dishes from all the corners of the Mediterranean, enjoy lunch, dinner or drinks under the stars by our lush poolside gardens. Whether you fancy tossing the carbs with our mouth-watering salads or tucking into our traditionally stone baked pizzas, we look forward to welcoming you back. Reservations required for tables of 12 guests and over. Call The Summer Kitchen team on 21440301

DESIGN

“I GUESS IT’S ALWAYS EXCITING TO BE ABLE TO INJECT A FLASH OF FUN IN TO YOUR STYLE AND, AS MEN ARE ACTUALLY QUITE LIMITED BY THE ACCESSORIES THEY CAN USE TO DO THAT, CAVESSON’S IS PROVIDING OTHER OPPORTUNITIES.”

Each product exudes English sensibility on the outside by using sober colours like black, dark brown, and blue. However, despite outward appearances, Mark’s underlying Mediterranean passion is always there and ready to shine with interior shocks of leather in red, bright blue, orange, yellow and green. A further nod to his Englishness is the collection’s name; The River Collection, with each item named after a favourite river, such as the Winterbourne, Tillingham and Larigan. It’s this striking combination that makes Cavesson’s so alluring. Much like a businessman might choose a colourful tie to juxtapose his smart suit or a flamboyant fabric to line the inside of a jacket, so Cavesson’s brings that touch of personality to every product. “Aside

from the quality of the goods, it is this added factor that people seem to be drawn to. I guess it’s always exciting to be able to inject a flash of fun in to your style and, as men are actually quite limited by the accessories they can use to do that, Cavesson’s is providing other opportunities.”

and flying the flag for both Malta and England. “I am thrilled by the prospect of where Cavesson’s could take me, especially since witnessing people’s response to it. My ultimate dream would be to see my products in Japan – a country that really admires quality brands with a genuine story behind them.”

And now that opportunity has become reality, with the launch of the online Cavesson’s store – one that is already reaching potential customers across the globe. “The online response has been really exciting, even though customers can’t actually take in the full experience of what makes Cavesson’s so special, like its touch and smell for instance.” Nevertheless, Cavesson’s is now out there in the world, starting to make a name for itself

“I really can’t wait for the moment my bags are sitting side-by-side with more established brands from the international leather sector, and I will be doing everything I can to ensure that time comes sooner rather than later,” Mark adds. To view the Cavesson’s Collection, visit www.cavessons.com

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BEAUTY + SKIN CARE

ROMANTIC THE ROMAN TIC MAKE UP LOOK IS ALL OVER THIS SUMMER WITH SO FT FELINE TROPI CAL E Y E S IN BLUE OV E RTONES, LUMINO US SKIN, AND PLUMP PINK AND PEACHY LIPS. AN D FR E C KLE S. FR ECKLES ARE IN. FAKE THEM IF YO U HAVE TO. F OR HAIR , PLAITS, PLAITS, PLAITS ARE HERE TO STAY THIS SUMMER.

SUMMER Model: Sandrina from Models M Makeup: Jennifer Dimech using Clarins Hair: Toni&Guy Photography: Matthew B Spiteri

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BEAUTY CARE BEAUTY+&SKIN MAKEUP

THIS IS THIS SEASON IS ABOUT HEALTHY ABOUT A HEALTHY GLOW, ANDSUBTLY SUBTLY GLOW, AND BRINGING OUT BRINGING OUTTHE THE FACIAL FEATURES FACIAL FEATURES THROUGH THROUGH PINK-INSPIRED PINK-INSPIRED NEUTRALS. NEUTRALS.

Be Long Mascara Lashes are enhanced with Clarins Be Long Mascara, which lengthens and curls to perfection in one easy step. It also actually encourages lash growth - a must-have for lashes lacking in length.

Everlasting Foundation The Clarins Everlasting Foundation SPF 15 has a non-oily, smooth texture that evens the tone and enhances the complexion. It helps minimise those small imperfections and has a plant ingredient that mimics the actions of a micro-patch, extracted from acacia, which acts like a reservoir to help skin stay supple and hydrated.

Perfect Eyes & Brows Palette For perfectly shaped eyebrows, this ultimate eye kit contains all you need with three powders, a holding wax to set brows and a luminous pink shadow to enhance the eyes. A double applicator, eyebrow brush and mini tweezers to remove unwanted hair are also included.

5-Colour Eyeshadow Pale tte The Clarins 5-Colour eyeshadow palette offers easy to put together shades - beige, pink and shimmering taupe accompanied by matte and shimmery brown. It’s the perfect little edit of neutrals.

Bronzing Duo The Clarins Bronzing Duo has two complementary shades, which means that you can mix and match to create your perfect colour no matter the season. Mineral pigments make for pure and brilliant colour, while mother of pearl pigments infuse skin with sun-kissed radiance. These soft-focus pigments help to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and blemishes, and brighten the complexion all day.

Joli Rouge Lipstick Clarins’ timeless lipstick has a rich and creamy formula that leaves the lips with intense colour and a delicate satin finish. Apply to the lips from the middle outwards.

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BEAUTY + SKIN CARE

[ GET YOUR SKIN IN ORDER WI YOU KNOW SUMMER IS COMING... DON’T LET IT SURROUND ITSELF AROUND YOU BEFORE IT’S TOO LATE TO GET PREPPED. START THINKING ABOUT PRESERVING THAT SKIN AND ILLUMINATING THAT COMPLEXION FROM NOW.

Guerlain Orchidée Impériale Eye Serum endows the eyes with infinite radiance and a lastingly youthful appearance. At the heart of the formula lies Gold Orchid Technology, with global age-defying action, which works in synergy with the Bright-Eye Complex to reveal extraordinary brightness. From X-Treme Co Ltd. Guerlain Orchidée Impériale Cream offers new Gold Orchid technology, which boosts and reinforces the bioenergetic network, the key to skin regeneration and to activate cell fertility. The fine cream envelops the face in a silky film, recovering density and firmness with even facial contours. From X-Treme Co Ltd.

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Clarins Multi-Active Day helps prevent and visibly correct the appearance of fine lines thanks to new Myrothamnus extract, which minimises the impact of daily stress to help keep skin smooth and radiant. From all leading pharmacies & perfumeries. Clarins Multi-Active Night cream contains new golden poppy extract which revitalises and protects the skin to reduce lack of sleep signs. It prevents and visibly corrects the appearance of fine lines, while comforting the skin. From all leading pharmacies & perfumeries. Vichy Dercos AntiHairloss Solution for healthier hair. The Dercos Aminexil Pro is an intensive triple action treatment that contains Aminexil to help anchor the root, as well as SP94 to fortify hair fibres, and Arginine to boost micro circulation. It doesn’t require rinsing, and is non-greasy. The Dercos Energising Shampoo is a rich and creamy foam that contains Aminexil, plus Vitamins PP, B5, and B6. This can be used by itself, or as a complement to the Dercos Aminexil Pro Hair Loss Treatment. Both of these products are available for men and women, and are parabenfree and hypoallergenic. From leading pharmacies. vichy@prohealth.com.mt

BEAUTY + SKIN CARE

TH THESE SMALL MIRACLES ] Clarins Lip Perfector is for naturally enhanced, smooth and plumped lips. Its luxurious gel, enriched with Shea butter, tastes good enough to eat with hints of sweet vanilla. From all leading pharmacies & perfumeries. Dior Addict Ultra-Gloss is a lip plumper and gloss all in one, with a hydra-plumping texture that offers 3 benefits: ultra plumping, ultra glossy, and ultra hydrating. From X-Treme Co Ltd. Clarins Shimmery Eyeshadow offers a fusion texture that melts on the eyelid and has a cream-topowder formula that’s easily applied for a sparkling look. From all leading pharmacies & perfumeries. Shiseido Veiled Rouge Lipstick offers a long-lasting soft and delicate shine, as if lips are wrapped in a delicate veil of colour. From C+M Marketing Ltd. Clarins BB Skin Detox Fluid evens out the complexion whilst moisturising, balancing and protecting from UV and environmental aggressors. From all leading pharmacies & perfumeries. Clarins Joli Rouge Brilliant Lipstick provides intense moisture and enhances lips with a subtle shine and sheer finish, hydrating lips for 6 hours. From all leading pharmacies & perfumeries. Guerlain L’Homme Ideal Shower Gel offers three accords; intelligent citrus, sensual “amaretto”, and strong woody leather. From X-Treme Co Ltd. Vichy Dermablend Total Body Foundation SPF15 effectively covers up what you want it to, offering extremely high coverage for moderate to severe skin imperfections. From leading pharmacies. vichy@prohealth.com.mt Vichy Dermablend Fluid Corrective Foundation SPF35 offers complete high coverage, leaving no mask-like effect on the face, while providing 24hr hydration, so that your skin feels supple and comfortable all day long. Its lightweight texture melts into the skin, blurring any irregular complexions and covering up imperfections for a naturally flawless and radiant finish. From leading pharmacies. vichy@prohealth.com.mt Shiseido Full Lash Volume Mascara offers volume on-demand to best suit you and your day, leaving lashes looking full and thick, but with a soft touch. From C+M Marketing Ltd.

CLARINS. FROM ALL LEADING PHARMACIES AND PERFUMERIES. DIOR, GUERLAIN. DISTRIBUTED BY X-TREME CO. TEL: 2388 2000. SHISEIDO. DISTRIBUTED BY C+M MARKETING.TEL: 2142 4079. VICHY. DISTRIBUTED BY PROHEALTH. TEL: 2146 1851. L U X U R Y I S S U E 047

MAKEUP

Allison’s Art Professional Makeup Artist Allison Depriestre talks to VAMP about her love of texture, working with imperfections, and the launch of Vichy’s new Dermablend 3D Correction.

How did you get started as a makeup artist? I’m a big fan of the 80s and am inspired by the decade. I actually got the idea of becoming a makeup artist when I was watching Michael Jackson’s ‘Thriller’ video in the early 80s. The makeup was so critical to that video, and I realised how much work must have gone into it. That’s when I realised that makeup artistry was a job. I had never even met a makeup artist before. I went to makeup school in Brussels and then began working in the theatre on special effect makeup. I liked it, but there wasn’t a need for perfection, since the makeup had to be seen from far. For that reason, we used heavy coats, and it didn’t really matter if it was blended that well because it didn’t show. I’m a perfectionist when it comes to blending, so I always took too much time doing it precisely. I wanted more of a challenge in that sense; I wanted to work in finer detail. Slowly, I became more involved in beauty, even though I hadn’t studied it. I like working on natural looking makeup where it shows the skill of blending. This is how I got into fashion.Very natural looking makeup is needed in this industry, and I like spending more time on the complexion than anything else.You want people to say that the woman is beautiful - not the makeup. What are some common beauty/make-up mistakes that women make?

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Using the wrong products, colours and textures - and not blending it well, whether its the blush, the eyes or the foundation. Applying too much is also a common mistake.You have to avoid foundation looking like a flat mask. If there’s a part of the skin that doesn’t need foundation, then it doesn’t need coverage.You have to be precise - if you have something to hide, just hide that not your whole face. What’s the purpose of your visit in Malta? I came from Paris to do a demonstration at the launch of the new Vichy Dermablend 3D Correction. I did the makeup of three people with three different imperfections. One was tattoo coverage, another was very bad acne with oily skin, and the last was pigmentation. I just came back from Paris Fashion Week, which is tiring, but so exciting. A lot of the models have

imperfections that need to be corrected, which is my speciality.

How do your techniques vary for different imperfections?

What is your experience with Vichy Dermablend 3D and how is it unique to other foundations?

There are many different types of imperfections, but I’ll talk about the three I did for the Dermablend 3D launch.

You can use Dermablend 3D Correction if you have oily skin with imperfections, if you need to cover indented scars or acne bumps, and if you want something with a good hold. What makes Dermablend 3D correction unique is that it allows you to have good, high coverage and a better finish. Dermablend 3D correction can be used in a thin layer on healthy areas of the skin, and then have heavier coverage in more irregular areas. Usually, when you have full coverage it shows. With Dermablend 3D it doesn’t appear as if there’s coverage. It offers a natural finish, which is the most difficult thing to achieve for everyone.

For models that have acne, I usually do a thin layer over the face and then go back to do each problem one at a time, so this takes a lot of time. For the average person, ordinarily this would take way too much time to do every morning. With Dermablend 3D, it works with just one layer. Vitiligo is a little bit like acne - I do the whole face with a very thin layer, and then go over it again and again, building layers. What’s important is to blend the coverage into the rest of the face that isn’t covered. This way, the difference of multi layers can’t be seen. Concealing tattoos is very much a layering process. I apply a heavy layer, and then blend that layer into the skin that surrounds the tattoo. I then apply more layers on top of this. I powder between each set to make sure it stays. Is a build up of makeup bad for the skin? Dermablend products are non comedogenic, which means that they don’t block the pores. Further to this, Dermablend 3D actually reduces acne. It contains Salicylic acid and Eperuline, which help reduce imperfections and stop inflammation.

Cover, level, treat. Active 3D correction for acne-prone skin.

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PEOPLE LIFE A story of craf tsmanship, luxury and vision > The art of legacy > A c e n t u r y o f s t y l e > C r e a t i n g C ave s s o n â&#x20AC;&#x2122; s > M o d e r n fa s h i o n l u x u r i e s > Ve g a n l o g i c > A c a u t i o n a r y t a l e

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CARS

A story of craftsmanship, luxury & vision... Design is a way of life in Sweden so it’s no surprise that Volvo cars boast uncluttered design, handcrafted materials and cutting-edge innovations that create a calming, Scandinavian-inspired sanctuary. From concept to creation,Volvo takes inspiration from the country of its birth, which has a global reputation for integrating the latest technology with design that’s clean, beautiful, and crafted from the finest and most natural materials.

The new XC90 is the first Volvo to carry the company’s new more prominent iron mark, which has the iconic arrow elegantly aligned with the diagonal slash across the grille. Together with the T-shaped “Thor’s Hammer” DRL lights, the iron mark introduces an entirely new, distinctive and confident face for Volvo’s forthcoming generation of cars. Volvo’s vision for more human-centric design places drivers at the centre of the experience, giving them a luxury experience that is a little more human-oriented, simultaneously firmly linking to its renowned heritage of building safe and dependable cars. Everything Volvo creates is designed around people, which means that their every innovation is designed to simplify and improve lives.Volvo is especially proud of their advances in efficient power, connectivity and safety. Volvo - The future of driving In 1927, the founders of Volvo Cars stated that “Cars are driven by people; the guiding principle behind everything we make at Volvo therefore is, and must remain, safety.”This commitment has been the core mission of every Volvo engineer, designer and technician ever since. Cars play a large role in many people’s lives. Memories are woven around travelling with loved ones, family and friends. Cars offer freedom when driving on open roads to favourite destinations. However, today’s daily commute is too often broken and we find ourselves trapped in heavy congestion and frustration. With Volvo’s Vision 2020, presented in 2007, the company reaffirmed its founder’s mission,

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CARS

stating, “By 2020, no one should be killed or seriously injured in a new Volvo Car.” This vision continues to guide Volvo, which understands that autonomous driving is a key part of a modern car’s capabilities to make roads safer. As a result, it is one of the first carmakers in the world to accept full liability when its cars are in autonomous mode. But it’s not only about liability; it’s also about convenience, as autonomous driving can give

back a little time for the driver to do other things, when safe to do so.

heritage, which started with the Volvo Duett launched in 1953 – the first car to meet the combined needs of drivers’ active leisure

In 2017,Volvo’s DriveMe project will make 100 autonomous cars available to consumers in Gothenburg, Sweden for use in everyday driving conditions.

time and practical professional lives.The new Volvo XC90 is a place to go to get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

The new Volvo XC90 is a car that benefits from more than 60 years of estate building

It’s a place to relax. A place to think and a place to connect with the world on your own terms.

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LUXURY WATCHES

the

ART OF LEGACY PIA ZAMMIT TALKS TO MALCOLM LOWELL, MANAGING DIRECTOR OF EDWARDS LOWELL ABOUT WHAT’S GOING ON IN THE WORLD OF THE MOST LUXURIOUS WATCH BRANDS THIS YEAR.

People watching. We all do it. We assess and then hazard guesses at who people are, what they do for a living, what their lifestyle is like – just by observing their movement, their gestures and their style. Some things are a dead give-away. My mother always told me to check out a person’s shoes. If someone is wearing well-crafted, well looked after shoes, then you can almost safely assume that they are conscientious, meticulous and pay attention to detail. To my mum’s advice I’d add – look at a person’s watch too. A fine watch is not just a ‘status’ symbol, but an indicator that the wearer appreciates superior craftsmanship, taste and style. With this in mind, I meet Malcolm Lowell, the Managing Director of Edwards Lowell – one of the oldest watch and jewellery retailers in Malta, they’ve been in business since 1925. Malcolm has just returned from BaselWorld 2016 – The World Watch and Jewellery Show, and I want to know what is new in the world of watches, and what to look out for this year. “A watch is not only about function, but it's also about style,” Malcolm tells me passionately. “Traditional mechanical watches aren't going to be affected by major technological changes. The established brands are heirlooms. There is appeal and emotional attachment to these

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objects and the marvellous craftsmanship that went into creating them”. Malcolm tells me that the luxury watch industry has experienced rapid growth over the last 20 years, and until recently there has been a shift towards more traditional and established brands. “Before the market downturn in 2007, it all went a bit haywire; many new brands had launched and watches were bold and brash – however once the recession reached the luxury segment, the industry had a slight shake-up leading to a reality check, and this is when the luxury consumer chose to move towards well established brands.” It makes sense. If you are investing a fair amount of money on a watch, then you'd want to own one that has legacy, tradition and craftsmanship. So what's new this year? I ask him. I strike lucky, as 2016 is a big year for anniversaries in the watch world, and many of the top brands are relaunching some of their most iconic and well known models. “It's the 40th anniversary of Patek Philippe's Nautilus and they will be launching a very few limited edition models later on in the year.” “The Nautilus is arguably one of the most sought after and desirable sports watches around. It’s an iconic model so the demand from watch collectors and aficionados for these limited pieces will be intense as they try and get hold of them later in the year. “Patek have released a World Time Chronograph in 18ct white gold with a

wonderful Blue opaline dial. An important watch for this year,” Malcolm tells me enthusiastically. “This is a very functional watch designed for the international traveller. Patek always performs well at the best auction houses around the world, holding many records for the highest prices ever paid in auction for their sought after timepieces (over 7 million dollars in case you were wondering). This year they've integrated a chronograph into their world-time movement. This stunning novelty from Patek was one of the most talked about pieces at BaselWorld this year. “Another brand we represent is Hublot,” Malcolm continues, “and this year they celebrate the 10th anniversary of the Big Bang All Black.” In his opinion, Hublot is one of the most interesting and creative brands, as they reinvent themselves and the rules almost every other day. “Through their many collaborations, to name a few, this year, they have associated themselves with brands such as Berluti and the Champions League. Their marketing is formidable. Jean Claude Bivet, who is at the helm, is considered by many in the field as a master luxury watch guru and marketing wizard. He has created a brilliant brand, and this year Hublot launched a Big Bang 44mm with a black sapphire crystal case.You can see right through it including its movement! They also renewed another collection, the Pop Art range, which has caused quite a stir because of its style and creative appeal.”

LUXURY WATCHES We now turn to Rolex who are celebrating the 60th anniversary of the Day Date, and to inaugurate this they have issued a special edition of the iconic Presidential 18ct gold watch with a subtle green dial. “The biggest novelty this year and the watch that made the most noise at the BaselWorld fair”, Malcolm adds, “is possibly the most iconic watch in the world – the Daytona. They have released the Daytona with a black monobloc Cerachrom ceramic bezel. This is the watch everyone was excitedly talking about throughout the show and online by watch-bloggers. There has always been an incredible waiting list for the Daytona steel model. Now that the previous model has been discontinued to make space for the new version - the 1960’s inspired Black ceramic bezel, the waiting list is a lot longer. “Tudor, the second brand of Rolex, celebrated 60 years of diving history and launched the Heritage Black Bay Bronze, which has been updated and has a mechanical movement, as well as changes to its bracelet and fabric straps. At Basel they unveiled a stunning watch with a bronze case which will no doubt be very popular this year.” Chopard’s iconic Happy Diamonds collection is turning 40 this year. To celebrate, Chopard presented new moving elements featuring an unprecedented innovation in the history of Happy Diamonds: prong setting. The new collection with larger gems and a variety of sizes is named Happy Dreams. I look at Malcolm's wrist and notice that in fact, he sports a Rolex Daytona. “I was brought up on watches – they interest and fascinate me” he says. “You choose your interests in life, or rather, they choose you – cars, art, wine, watches. They all have a lot in common. I like the historical aspect as well as the collecting side of things”. He smiles and says, “I’m a watch-man through and through.”

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ART

A CENTURY OF STYLE Vogue 100:

The Victoriaâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Secret girls in Dolce & Gabbana. 056 L U X U R Y I S S U E

ART

VOGUE 100 CELEBRATES 100 YEARS OF CUTTING-EDGE FASHION, BEAUTY AND PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRITISH VOGUE AT THE NATIONAL PORTRAIT GALLERY, LONDON.>> L U X U R Y I S S U E 057

ART

‘Limenight Nights’ by Helmut Newton, 1973

Part of Horst P. Horst’s famous ‘corset’ collection, which inspired Madonna’s ‘Vogue’ video.

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‘Lily’ by Nick Knight, 2008.

ART

Photographer Guy Bourdin for French Vogue

“THIS EXHIBITION IS SO MUCH MORE THAN A COLLECTION OF PRETTY MODELS IN PRETTY CLOTHES.” L U X U R Y I S S U E 059

ART

FASHION MAY BE FICKLE, BUT THE FASHION PHOTOGRAPHER’S LENS IS ALSO A MIRROR. Vivienne Westwood by Photographer Tim Walker. 060 L U X U R Y I S S U E

David Hockney, Peter Schlesinger and Maudie James by Cecil Beaton, 1968.

ART

Anne Gunning in Jaipur by Norman Parkinson, 1956.

Vogue 100: A Century of Style includes work by the leading twentieth-century photographers, including Cecil Beaton, Lee Miller, Irving Penn and Snowdon, as well as more recent work by celebrated photographers David Bailey, Corinne Day, Patrick Demarchelier, Nick Knight, Herb Ritts, Mario Testino, Tim Walker and Albert Watson. Iconic British names and faces from the last 100 years of popular culture are subjects of the photographs, while there is a host of other exhibition highlights, including the entire set of prints from Corinne Day’s controversial Kate Moss shoot, taken in 1993 at the

height of the grunge subculture’s prevalence. Find Peter Lindbergh’s famous 1990 cover shot that defined the supermodel era on exhibition, as well as a series of exceptional WWII photographs by Vogue’s official war correspondent, Lee Miller, and a rare version of Horst’s famous ‘corset’ photograph from 1939, which inspired the video for Madonna’s hit song Vogue. In 1916, WWI made transatlantic shipments of American Vogue impossible and as a result, Condé Nast authorised a British edition. Over the following ten decades of uninterrupted publication, the magazine continued to mirror

its times and put fashion in the context of the wider world. The exhibition is curated by Robin Muir who is a Contributing Editor to British Vogue. Older images illustrate both the austerity and optimism that followed the two world wars, the dawning of the ‘Swinging London’ scene in the sixties, the radical seventies and the imageconscious eighties. The more contemporary photographs chart the magazine’s second century, demonstrating its continued currency in photography and design to this day.

Kate Moss at the Master Shipwright’s House, Deptford, by Mario Testino, 2008.

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LIFESTYLE

VEGAN LOGIC

Dr Ilan Goldberg eradicates some veganism myths, explains how to have a good vegan diet, and explores why the United Nations Environment Programme has issued a report in 2010 that recommends a global shift towards a vegan diet. Words: Dr Ilan Goldberg

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LIFESTYLE

hat do Ellen DeGeneres, Pamela Anderson, Natalie Portman, Alicia Silverstone, Joaquine Phoenix, and Russell Brand have in common? How about Bill Clinton and Al Gore? Or Usher, Moby, Justin Timberlake, Alanis Morissette, and Prince? One last clue: Mike Tyson,Venus Williams, Carl Lewis, and Patrik Baboumian do it too. Would you have guessed that all of these people refrain from eating animal products? Veganism is gaining a strong following throughout the Western world. From politicians to business leaders, from boxers to environmentalists, from body builders to chefs, the list of famous vegans is surprisingly large, and growing larger by the day. Our beautiful isles have their own growing vegan culture, and we host an increasing number of vegan tourists who are looking for vegan friendly products and services.

eat. Their diet is more natural and less expensive. Being vegan has never been so easy. Surprised? I was too. Now that we know the most frightening thing about veganism, let’s investigate some of the reasoning or logic behind it. There are three main arguments for going vegan: It is healthier, better for the environment and better for animals. I will outline each one in turn. Then I will deal with the ten most popular vegan myths, and finally, I will give you my recommendations for trying veganism the easy way and for making your business more attractive to vegan clientele. The claim that a vegan diet is healthier than a non-vegan diet seems to be controversial at the very least. We have been brought up to believe that meat, dairy and eggs contain important nutrients that are hard to get elsewhere, like iron, protein, vitamin B12, omega-3 fatty acids, calcium, to name just a few. This is partly true, and partly false.You can get these nutrients from meat, dairy and eggs, but a considerable amount of scientific research conducted over decades has now conclusively shown that all the nutrients that people need are readily available in

a good vegan diet. This includes women who are pregnant or breast feeding, as well as babies. The science has also shown that consumption of meat, dairy and eggs increases the likelihood of having cancer, heart disease, diabetes and several other common ailments. Notice that I wrote “a good vegan diet”. What is a good vegan diet? Think of everything you normally eat, if you can. Now take out everything that includes meat, dairy and eggs (even a little). What’s left? If you eat a typical Maltese diet, the answer is not much.You will probably not get all the nutrients you need from such a diet, and you will definitely not enjoy it. So let’s try it another way. Think of all your favourite dishes. If you Google any of your favourite dishes and add “vegan” in the search terms, for example “vegan tiramisu”, you will typically find dozens of videos and recipes to try. On top of these, there is a limitless variety of vegan dishes that you may not have heard of: Amazingly tasty dishes from around the world that will only serve to expand your culinary repertoire. >>

What is a vegan diet you ask? And what can knowledge of veganism offer you? Well, consider these questions first: Are you interested in living a longer and healthier life or in keeping your weight under control? Do you care about the environment? Do you care about the wellbeing of animals? Would you like to make your business more attractive to this expanding niche? If you answered yes to any of the above you might want to hold on to your chair because this is going to be one hell of a ride. Let’s get the hardest bit out of the way first and talk about what vegans eat, or more importantly, what they refrain from eating. Vegans don’t eat meat, dairy or eggs. Why would anyone do something so extreme? Don’t they like meat and cheese? How do they get enough protein, iron, calcium, or B12? When people first hear of veganism they usually wonder how hard such a diet must be, or that it is not tasty, healthy, or natural. Actual vegans, however, love and enjoy an endless variety of foods that includes vegan versions of everything you

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LIFESTYLE With a little bit of initial effort you will find that you enjoy healthy vegan food just as much if not more. So if you are asking yourself if it’s possible to make Nanna’s torta without eggs, the answer is most definitely yes, but you will have to learn a new way of making it. The second reason people switch to a vegan lifestyle is that it is better for the environment – a lot better. How so? We now know that animals are much less efficient at producing nutrients than plants. When animals are grown for food, almost all of the nutrients that they are fed never reach us. Consider the protein in beef for example. Almost all the protein that was fed to a steer will not be found in its meat. It would have been used by the steer to sustain its own biological processes well before its slaughter. As far as humans and the environment are concerned, these proteins would have been completely wasted. When meat, dairy and eggs are produced, the animals act as nutritional filters. They use almost all the nutrients themselves, and only leave a little at the end for humans to consume. Instead of growing plants to feed animals that we can eat in turn, we can bypass this nutritional filter and get our nutrients directly from plant foods. This means feeding the same amount of people but using much less resources like land and water, and producing much less pollutants like greenhouse gasses and nitrogen. Altogether, animal agriculture is the number one cause of environmental degradation and species extinction. This is why the United Nations Environment Programme has issued a report in 2010 that recommends a global shift towards a vegan diet in order to avert the worst effects of climate change. The third and last main reason for going vegan is probably the most difficult to reach agreement on. Many vegans believe that there is a good moral reason for not eating animal products. When they try to explain this reason to non-vegans, they are often told that morality is subjective – a matter of personal choice – or that morality doesn’t apply to animals in the same way that it applies to humans. Because this area is likely to produce a very heated debate, I would like to stick only to things we can all agree on. I think we can all agree that it is not okay to harm an animal unnecessarily or

gratuitously. Since vegan food can be both healthy and tasty, it is actually not necessary for humans to eat animal products. So the only question that remains is this: Can meat, dairy and eggs be produced without harming animals? The answer to this question depends a lot on who you ask. But I believe that even here we can reach some kind of agreement. If you ask people representing the industry, what they tell us is that they abide by animal welfare laws that were put in place to make sure that animal agriculture is humane. Whenever animal rights activists infiltrate farms and slaughterhouses and release videos that show serious abuse, the normal response of industry representatives is to say that the particular place in the video was not typical. They also say that no outside intervention is needed to protect the animals because people in the industry care about animals, and so will do their best to make sure this does not happen again. The image the industry is trying to promote through advertising is also one of happy cooperative animals. Less biased experts tell a different story. Scientists who have been investigating how farm animals think and feel tell us that their psychological makeup is very similar to our own. These animals suffer very similarly to how we would suffer if our freedom and family were taken from us. They feel exactly the same pain when their bodies are mutilated. (Mutilations like dehorning, debeaking, and castration are standard practice in modern farming. These are done without anaesthetic and cause the animal excruciating pain.) Crucially, scientists also tell us that these animals value their life much like we do. That means that depriving them of that life amounts to a very substantial harm. Animal rights activists have also helped cast doubt about the industry’s position by getting video cameras into farms and slaughterhouses. A few years ago it would have been very hard for people outside the industry to see standard practices with their own eyes. Today all the evidence is just a few clicks away. If you want to know more about the reasoning behind veganism try Forks over Knives (health), Cowspiracy (environment), and Earthlings (animal rights). These documentaries are available online. There is a wealth of other resources online, including very active vegan communities that will help you with

delicious recipes and practical advice if you choose to try it out. Attracting vegan clientele is quite easy, but there are a few things that you will need to keep in mind.Vegans in Malta will be happy to share knowledge of your business through online communities if you let them know about your products or services.Vegan tourists that are planning their visit will ask local vegans about places to stay and dine, so contacting local vegan groups is great for attracting tourists as well. These networks will also review your business so make sure you keep in contact and act on their feedback. Offering vegan options in your menu should not be a matter of removing the non-vegan ingredients from existing dishes.Your chef must commit to studying vegan cuisine and developing real vegan options. Owners of supermarkets and health shops have literally thousands of products to choose from, with a multitude of very successful vegan meats, milks, cheeses, yogurts, cosmetics and more.Vegan clients, especially tourists, would appreciate it if shop assistants know where to find vegan products. As the vegan niche continues to grow, a dedicated vegan section would be even better.Veganism is on the rise among the health-conscious and those who care about the environment and other species. All indications are that it is becoming a legitimate and celebrated part of global culture. Malta, meet veganism.

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FASHION

ALINA ANISIMOVA EXPLORES THE FASHION LUXURIES OF MODERN TIMES. Words: Alina Anisimova

hen it comes to luxury, what do we think about? Perhaps we imagine people lounging glamorously by the pool in fancy mansions, wearing insanely expensive designer pieces while drinking Champagne and showing off their sparkling diamonds. This image has become a one of myth - the concept of luxury in fashion goes far beyond this basic perception, and is ever-changing throughout the history of the industry. “The personal luxury goods market – including leather accessories, fashion, hard luxury and fragrance & cosmetics – reached €253 billion in 2015,” the leading management consulting firm Bain & Co reports. The luxury business is growing steadily and has tripled in size over the past 20 years, which makes luxury pieces the best option for an investment indeed. But is the idea of luxury really the same as it was twenty years ago? In the beginning of the new millennium, the term luxury meant rarity, superior craftsmanship, and sky-high prices.The distance between massmarket and high fashion was substantial, since those consumers shopping for high street were not always able to afford purchasing luxury goods. It worked the other way round, too – the high fashion audience of the past would never set foot in a high street store.

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Now, 16 years later, when fashion is fast and available like never before, the luxury business has revolutionised and the concept has changed; it’s now all about buying less, but better. We are a new generation of consumers, which is no longer lusting after labels and looking for compliments based on consumption. These days, luxury is about comfort, quality and individuality; we are now looking at how progressive and functional the clothing is, rather than its famous designer label.

bring playfulness and just the right amount of “cool” to a French luxury house.

Doubtlessly, some fashion houses are timeless and will always remain the power players in the luxury market, but today the industry has a new kind of exclusive clothing to offer. There are smaller brands that are focusing on the same stylish impact, using premium quality materials and progressive ideas, but the price is lower. However, these beautifully-made pieces are still able to be passed down from generation to generation due to the craftsmanship and high quality materials used to make them.

The line between the luxury market and masses is blurring by the annual collaborations between high fashion and high street. For instance, the Swedish retailers H&M have been working with some of the most iconic names of the industry for over ten years now, from Karl Lagerfeld in 2004 to the latest collection designed by Balmain. The collaborations are highly successful and undoubtedly reach a younger fashion audience.

The fashion industry introduces new names every season. The new generation of the 21st century designers is as young and ambitious as their fashion audience, yet still some of them can already tell the story of success. Perhaps, the ultimate rules of luxury fashion were changed when Humberto Leon and Carol Lim joined the Kenzo house in 2011. The new cocreators didn’t really follow aesthetic guidelines of the brand, but instead aimed to

You’ve probably heard about the tiger print sweatshirt from Kenzo by now – it was designed by an iconic brand, and is as qualitative and stylish as expensive luxury goods, yet far less expensive. The famous sweatshirt represents exactly what the young audience wants from the fashion industry today – a refreshing modern edge for an affordable price.

The late Alexander McQueen said once, “I think the idea of mixing luxury and massmarket fashion is very modern, very now - no one wears head-to-toe designer anymore.” In the fashion world, quality, authenticity and individuality are treated as true luxuries these days. It doesn’t mean we don’t love things glamorous, but it doesn’t have to be gold to glitter.

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PEOPLE

THE CAUTIONARY TALE OF OIL HEIR

JOHN PAUL GETTY III Playboys, mafiosos and severed appendages: the cautionary tale of John Paul Getty III.

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PEOPLE

At his peak, oil tycoon John Paul Getty was the richest man in the world. His son, John Paul Getty II, managed the family’s business interests in Italy. His son, John Paul Getty III was living in Rome alone when he was kidnapped for randsom. At the time, he was 16, expelled from a string of private schools. He was known to keep company with artists and activists including the Rolling Stones and Andy Warhol. He sold dope and diamonds to the rich and famous, while he partied hard in the evenings at nightclubs, drunk and high. He carried around machine guns. He totalled expensive cars. He was a rich kid rebel. He said of the 1973 kidnapping: “I realised a car was stopping alongside me. These men were coming out of it. They grabbed me and wrestled me to the floor behind the front seats. There were three guys: two in the front, one in the back – I could feel his heels resting on me. I slept and we drove south for hours. “I woke feeling like shit. So thirsty. I said: ‘Water, water!’ They would only give me whisky. I must have drunk a bottle and a half on the trip. I didn’t realise at all what was going on. I was just so f***ing drunk. I thought [they were] the cops. When I woke again, the car had stopped. It was getting light. Outside, I heard them talking. They blindfolded me. I was carried out. Feet and hands. They laid me on to the grass.” The kidnappers asked for a ransom of $18 million but everyone, including the Italian police and the Getty family themselves were skeptical. John Paul had previously spoken to friends about faking a kidnapping to extricate money from his notoriously penny-pinching

grandfather (who again, was the richest man in the world). There are various stories to back this up, including the one about his insistence that his house guests use an installed pay phone. When he was made aware of the kidnapping, John Paul’s grandfather allegedly said, “If I pay one penny now, I’ll have 14 kidnapped grandchildren.” A result of too much money and a notorious lack of love and affection, John Paul III’s father was a heroin addict at the time, living in Chelsea. When he heard of the kidnapping, he allegedly said to his mistress: “Do you realise that if I have to pay the ransom, I’d have to sell my entire library for that useless son?”

things, the custody of children was used as a bargaining tool. When Getty III was found half dead in the pounding rain at a petrol station, he was beat-up, malnourished and missing an ear. Of the nine men arrested for his kidnapping, only two were eventually convicted. The others, including a man believed to be the brains behind the abduction – the head of the Calabrian Mafia – were acquitted due to lack of evidence. Just $85,000 of the $2.2 million ransom was recovered. Not long after the kidnapped boy was released by his captors, he phoned his grandfather to thank him for paying the ransom. The eldest Getty refused to come to the phone.

Getty’s mother, Gail Harris, divorced and no longer wealthy, took the kidnapping more seriously. She had received the original ransom letter, and then three months later, received one of her son’s ears along with a lock of hair, alongside a reduced ransom of $3 million. ‘This is Paul’s ear,’ the accompanying note read. ‘If we don’t get some money within ten days, then the other ear will arrive. In other words, he will arrive in little bits.’

After the trauma, the young Getty got married, yet slipped back into his old ways. During this time he had a son - the actor Balthazar Getty. It was not long before Getty got deeper into drink and drugs. Eventually, a cocktail of valium, methadone and alcohol induced a stroke, leaving him almost blind and confined to a wheel chair. He had to sue his father to raise the money to cover his medical expenses.

Finally, Getty’s mother decided that action had to be taken, and the rest of his family followed suit. John Paul Getty eventually paid $2.2 million to get his grandson back – the maximum his accountants said would be tax-deductible. The teenager’s father came up with the rest with money he borrowed from his father – at four per cent interest. This came only after a succession of interfamily negotiations – in which, among other

It’s most probable that when joking about faking his abduction, Getty planted the idea in the heads of the shady types he associated with. Finally, Getty is out of pain. At the age of 54 and after being paralysed for 30 years, the oil heir died of a heroin overdose in 2011.

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Triq tal-Balal, San Gwann

sales@brands.com.mt

www.brands.com.mt

[ HOME INTERIORS ]

LIVING HOME

Black & white home news > The Lake House

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Take your pleasure seriously. - Charles Eames

[ H O M E U P D AT E ]

HOME NEWS > Loft

SNOWDROPS RUGS

Ideacasa

SASSI The design of the SASSI coffee table by Calligaris is characterised by the original irregular shape of the top - trapezoidal with rounded corners - which resembles the shape of a stone. The large top, available in wood or tempered glass, rests on metal pedestal base with cross-shaped. Available from Ideacasa, www.ideacasa.com.mt

LOFT’s high-quality rugs offer is nothing short of awe-inspiring, with brands that include custom manufacturing, meaning that the possibilities for gorgeous personalisation are endless. Here, new Snowdrops rugs. www.loft.com.mt

BoConcept

WHITE & BLACK CHIC BoConcept main floor lamp with black metal legs and a white fabric shade. BoConcept wire stool, now available in two versions – both available in black or white. www.boconcept.com.mt Ideacasa

VOLANS The VOLANS suspension lamp by Calligaris is equipped with a hemi-spherical shade diffuser and its height can be adjusted to the desired position using the metal wire. The lamp easily fits within modern environments and is ideal for illuminating the dining area table. Available from Ideacasa, www.ideacasa.com.mt

BoConcept

TORINO BoConcept’s dining tables are customisable so it’s easy to create a personal look depending on which tabletop and base is chosen. Pick a thin tabletop and frame for an elegant look, or choose a more solid expression with a thick tabletop. Here, the Torino range. www.boconcept.com.mt

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that little bit out of the ordinary

rabat / sliema / valletta t: 20 10 20 30

www.camilleriparismode.com

DESIGN

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DESIGN

Despite its monochromatic colour palette, the interior design of this house is intimate and cosy. Vamp explores how Interior Designer Igor Sirotov achieves such a luxurious look using just black and white.

THE LAKE HOUSE Architecture & Interior Design: Igor Sirotov Photography: Courtesy of Igor Sirotov

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DESIGN

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DESIGN

Ukrainian Architect and Interior Designer Igor Sirotov is known to use simplicity in creating contemporary style environments. With our lives becoming so complicated and crowded by daily activities, a simple home design proves to be the most satisfying and restful.

right materials and casted properly in a precise way that ensures no need for further finishing, it has become the leading contributor to the beauty of this home. Further, its neutrality accentuates the attributes of the materials, causing them to stand out.

This very simple but very elegant luxurious black and white interior juxtaposes marble, raw concrete, timber and steel to achieve a modern and minimalist composition.

Here, two different colours are always placed side by side to create contrast and to help them emphasise one another. This subtly allows the composition to vibrate and to become dynamic, despite the limited colour range, which isnâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;t noticeable at first; only when observing the details. >>

Concrete is the dominating element and plays a very important part in the black and white design. Combined with the

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DESIGN

PROBABLY THE CROWNING GLORY OF THE HOUSE IS THE EXQUISITE MARBLE BATHROOM WALL. Probably the crowning glory of the house is the exquisite marble bathroom wall. The designer’s choice of covering this specific part of the house with the interesting texture was due to its ability to be seen from any part of the house. As a result, it’s a very

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strong and powerful part of the design, to which everything else is concentrated around. Just like the rest of the black and white design, it’s somewhat elusive and not noticed immediately. All the same, it greatly affects the perception of the room.

With its ageless design, this elegant house would be fitting for almost any type of lifestyle and - probably the most important aspect - it will never go out of fashion; black and white are always going to define a contemporary modern style.

DESIGN

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Surfacing THE MOST BEauTifuL HOMES

The Factory, Mosta Road, Lija. T: 2143 3636 www.halmannvella.com

FOOD + TRAVEL

FOOD TRAVEL

B l a ck & w h i t e d e l i g h t > S o s we e t o n C h a r l o t t e S t r e e t

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FOOD POACHED GROUPER WITH CAULIFLOWER PURﾃ右 & CHARCOAL MAYONNAISE

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CORINTHIA PALACE CHEFS STEFAN HOGAN, JONATHAN ZAMMIT AND MARK MC BRIDE BRING LUXURY VAMP A STRIKING BLACK AND WHITE AFFAIR. Shoot location: Corinthia Palace Hotel Recipes: Starter, Jonathan Zammit. Main, Stefan Hogan. Dessert, Mark Mc Bride Photography: Matthew B Spiteri Black & white print plates: LOFT

FOOD

VEAL LOIN WRAPPED IN NORI WITH BLACK PUDDING SOIL, ROASTED HERITAGE CARROTS & CAROB JUS L U X U R Y I S S U E 091

FOOD

“NOTE THAT THESE TASKS ARE DELICATE AND REQUIRE SOME PATIENCE!” POACHED GROUPER WITH CAULIFLOWER PURÉE & CHARCOAL MAYONNAISE 4 grouper fillets (approximately 65g each) 1tsp salt ½tbsp melted butter 150ml mayonnaise 15ml garlic infused olive oil 2g activated charcoal 600g cauliflower florets 200ml milk 250ml cream 1tbsp butter 1tsp salt Baby cress tops to garnish How they did it: For the cauliflower purée, place the cauliflower florets, milk and cream into a saucepan. Place on the stove, bring to the boil and reduce heat, then simmer for 20 minutes. Strain and place the cauliflower in a blender add the liquid gradually (you will probably not need more that 5 tablespoons) until the desired consistency. Add the butter, season with salt and blend again. Then pass through a fine sieve. Check seasoning and keep warm. Mix the mayonnaise with the garlic, oil and the charcoal, and adjust seasoning as needed. Season the fish with the salt and brush with the melted butter. Roll each piece in cling film and tie the ends. Poach in water at 65 degrees for about 10 minutes until it’s just firm to the touch. Allow to cool slightly, remove from the plastic and season with salt. Plate with a few green cress tops to break the colour scheme.

VEAL LOIN WRAPPED IN NORI WITH BLACK PUDDING SOIL, ROASTED HERITAGE CARROTS & CAROB JUS 2 pieces veal tenderloin (210g each) 2 sheets nori 2tbsp extra virgin olive oil ½tsp salt 1tbsp olive oil 120g black pudding 50g dried bread crumbs 40g butter 20g sultanas, chopped 1 garlic clove 4 small purple potatoes 45g sour cream 20g caviar 4 gold leafs (find them at well-equipped art shops) Rock salt 1 black carrot 1 yellow carrot 1 purple carrot 2 shallots 40g butter How they did it: Roast the black pudding until it starts to crumble, then remove from the oven. In a pan, heat the butter and infuse with the garlic clove, add the crumbs and fry until golden brown. Add the sultanas and the black pudding. Remove the garlic clove and check the seasoning; keep warm. Wrap the potatoes in tin foil and bake on a bed of rock salt. When cooked, remove from the foil and wrap in the gold leaf. Cook the carrots separately in boiling salted water. Once cooked, glaze in butter and season with salt. Wrap the veal tenderloins in cling film and poach for 20 minutes at 50 degrees. Remove and lightly sear in a hot pan with olive oil, then season with salt. Remove from the pan and pat off excess oil, wrap in the nori seaweed and allow to rest. To plate, spoon some of the black pudding soil and decorate with the carrots, mushrooms and shallots. Carve the veal and plate with the gold leaf wrapped potato topped with the sour cream and caviar. Drizzle with the carob infused veal glaze.

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MILK, YOGHURT & WHITE CHOCOLATE MOUSSE INFUSED WITH ANISEED 150ml milk 50g greek yoghurt 100ml cream (whipped to a soft peak) 275g white chocolate 10ml anisette (such as Sambuca or Ouzo) 2 gelatine leaves (soaked in cold water) How they did it: Heat the milk and Greek yoghurt, and then squeeze out the excess water from the gelatine leaves and add to the milk. Stir until dissolved and pass through a sieve. Pour the mixture onto the chocolate and stir until all the solids have dissolved and the mixture is emulsified. Allow the mixture to lose some heat. When it reaches approximately 30 degrees, add the anisette, and with a soft folding motion, incorporate the whipped cream. Pour into the desired mould and allow to set overnight. (For this image, they used an egg shaped mould.) When set, spray with fine white chocolate (alternatively it can be dipped into melted chocolate and cocoa butter - a 50/50 mix). The temperature of the chocolate must not exceed 45/50 degrees, and the mousse needs to be frozen. Note this task is delicate and requires some patience! Method for Dry Milk Skin Boil half a litre of milk and turn off the flame. Allow to rest for five minutes and carefully remove the skin that forms on the surface. Place onto a silicon mat or baking waxed baking paper and repeat until you have three strands per serving. Place the tray in a low set oven to dehydrate, and remove once crisp. The temperature needs to be low so that there is no colouring/browning of the skin. Method for White Chocolate and Milk Powder Add 25 grams of glucose to the left-over milk. Reheat and froth. Skim the foam and dehydrate in the oven overnight. Crumb the dry foam and add 35 grams of white chocolate to form powder.

FOOD

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TRAVEL

SO SWEET ON CHARLOTTE STREET

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TRAVEL

NOW A FINE EXPONENT OF KIT KEMP’S MUCH IMITATED FUSION OF FLOWERY ENGLISH AND AVANT-GARDE, THIS GORGEOUS HOTEL WAS ONCE A DENTAL HOSPITAL.>> L U X U R Y I S S U E 095

TRAVEL

THE HUGE, COMFORTABLE BEDS AND TRADEMARK POLISHED GRANITE AND OAK BATHROOMS ARE SUITABLY INDULGENT, AND SOME ROOMS HAVE UNBELIEVABLY HIGH CEILINGS. Recently refurbished, The Charlotte Street Hotel in the centre of media-savvy Bloomsbury epitomises London living: an elegant bar, intimate bistro, smart private cinema, comfortable rooms with low-key luxe décor – and that all-important quietyet-central location. Taking the Bloomsbury Set for its inspiration, this London boutique

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hotel brings together fine art and a fresh colour palette to create the perfect city luxury stay. The completely urbanesque feel that Fitzrovia embodies brings on a ferocious competition between bars and restaurants, which makes it an ideal area to stay in.

The Firmdale Group, owned by husbandand-wife team Tim and Kit Kemp, now has eight hotels. This is one of Kit Kemp’s earliest designs and hosts regulars from nearby ad agencies and film companies, and a refreshingly wide age range of leisure guests. The designer has a talent for interiors that don’t age, such as the cheery hall with a roaring baronial fire. >>

TRAVEL

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TRAVEL

PUBLIC ROOMS HAVE BLOOMSBURY SET PAINTINGS BY THE LIKES OF DUNCAN GRANT AND VANESSA BELL, WHILE BEDROOMS MIX ENGLISH UNDERSTATEMENT WITH BOLD FLOURISHES. The front door opens as you reach it, your bag is taken with a smile and newspapers are tendered if you’re waiting. Reception is quick on the draw, everyone’s friendly and the Library and Drawing Room are just great for informal meetings or working out of your room. Soholistic offer in-room facials and

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treatments, and also run the hotel gym. Bright tailors’ dummies in all 52 rooms reference the rag trade that once dominated the area. Pattern and palette are bold and confident, beds are blinding white havens, and the top rooms have wonderful roofscape views.

Oscar, the restaurant, has recently swapped vivid orange for duck egg blue, with chairs upholstered in blue boiled wool or textiles to match the extrovert murals. The large, convivial bar blends into the dining area and the menu features light, fresh, seasonal dishes.

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