Harwich Guide 2020 by Vanilla Magazine

HARWICH Home of The Mayflower

A GU IDE FOR VIS ITORS TO HARW I CH & D OVE RCOU RT BAY

STEP BACK IN TIME AND WALK THE FOOTSTEPS OF MASTER CHRISTOPHER JONES. www.historicharwich.co.uk Contact the Harwich Society on 01255 502872

#GETONBOARD2020

A GUIDE TO HARWICH n

Christopher Jones' house see page 10

Low lighthouse see page 11

Welcome to Harwich!

years after The Mayflower and her master Christopher Jones sailed to the New World, visitors to Harwich can wander down streets and into houses Harwich resident Christopher Jones would have known – including his own house, still standing in King’s Head Street. OUR HUNDRED

Mayflower 400 is the theme and inspiration of many of the events and festivals in Harwich in 2020, linking into the celebrations in England, The Netherlands, and the United States. Peek into gardens behind houses even older than the Mayflower. Sample food salted in the way sailors would’ve known when embarking from Harwich. Experience your own voyage in the interactive heritage centre. This fascinating seaport and coastal resort stands at a crossroads – in time as well as place. Proud of its maritime heritage and pivotal position today in international shipping, it is looking to the future as new developments build on past successes. Use this Guide to find out more. Come for a day, or stay for a week. We guarantee you will want to return!

Harwich Festival see page 20

CONTENTS Map of Harwich & Dovercourt .................................. 4 Exploring north east Essex by train ....................... 6 Getting around ............................................................... 7 The Harbour Ferry ........................................................ 8 The story of the Mayflower ....................................... 9 The Harwich Society & attractions ......................... 11 The Pier Hotel ............................................................... 14 The Alma & Lambard's Salt House ........................ 16 The 1912 Centre ............................................................. 18 Accommodation ........................................................... 19 The Harwich Festival ............................................... 20 A festival for all seasons ........................................... 2 1 Secret Gardens ............................................................ 22 The Shanty Festival .................................................... 23 Harwich Haven Authority ......................................... 24 Trinity House ................................................................. 26 The Navy Yard .............................................................. 28 Harwich International Port ..................................... 30 Harwich military heritage.......................................... 31

Published by the Harwich Tourism Group Chairman: Paul Milsom

Harwich Mayflower Heritage Centre.................... 32

Edited and written by Cathy Shelbourne, Sea Shell Communications www.seashellcommunications.co.uk

The Guildhall ................................................................. 33

Design and map by Laura Hall

Dovercourt Leisure ..................................................... 34

Cover, and other photos as credited, by Anthony Cullen www.anthonycullen.com and www.photographicday.com

Seal watching ............................................................... 35

Supported by Tendring District Council Thank you to everyone who has contributed to this publication Online version at www.historicharwich.co.uk

Harwich Guide

World Food Aid ........................................................... 36 Directory ......................................................................... 37

S H OT L E Y

G AT E

Cromer

Norwich

RIVER STOUR

Lowestoft

EAST ANGLIA Stowmarket Ipswich Manningtree Chelmsford

Felixstowe

Harwich Colchester

Harwich International Port

PA R K E S TO N Q U AY

LONDON

LLA VA N H O – HOEK H IC W HAR

Mayﬂower sculpture

PA R K E S TO N

A120 Pa rk

t MANNI

EE NGTR

E M A

YFL

OW E R

es to n Ro ad

t C O LC H E S T E R

A120

Main

Harwich Q Dovercourt Bay Situated on the most north-easterly point of Essex, the historic town of Harwich and the seaside resort of Dovercourt are easy to travel to and from, by rail or road, ferry, ship or yacht. And within easy walking distance are beaches and bars, fine food and accommodation, festivals – and over 400 years of history.

Roa

Dovercourt Skating Rink

Harwich Sports Centre

R I V E R O RW E L L

Sh o tley M arin a

H I S T O R I C

H A R W I C H

| HA RW IC H

The Pier

eo rg e

St .

Ha rw i ch Tow n

H a rw ic h Tow n

Mai

n Ro ad

B AT H SIDE

r Ba

D overco u r t

LINE Hig

tr h S

• Treadmill Crane

St Nicholas Church

Harwich Green

Harwich Beach

13 H A R W I C H 14 13

11 Lifeboat Museum

OW E I XS T F E L

Trinity House

The Guildhall

Mayﬂower 400 Visitor • Centre Mural

Light Vessel LV18

d n R

{ | } ~

gto

llin

}

Y W

Electric Palace Cinema

g sz y Head

The Alma

1912 Visitor Hostel

Harwich Society Visitor Centre

u s Q

{

v w y ua x Q

Christopher Jones’ House

Ha’penny Pier

Navyard Wharf

High Lighthouse

Low Lighthouse

eet

Redoubt Fort

r Pa

Landguard Point

D OV E R C O U R T HA RW IC

Dovercourt Beach

H K OE – H VA N

D OV E RC OU RT B AY

HO LL AN D

n GETTING AROUND

Exploring north east Essex by train TRAVELLING ON THE PICTURESQUE MAYFLOWER LINE

FINDING OUT MORE

line moves on to Dovercourt, just five minutes’ walk to the sea front. At the end of the Mayflower Line is Harwich Town station, ideally situated for exploring the historic old port. n

NE OF THE easiest and most attractive ways to travel right into the heart of Harwich is via the Mayflower Line, a regular train service linking the town and port with London to the south, and Norwich to the north, via Manningtree. Each of the stops along the Mayflower Line has its charms, and all are well-worth exploring. Manningtree is a gateway to the Dedham Vale, an Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB). You can hire a bike at Manningtree Station, or walk along the river on waymarked paths to Flatford and Willy Lotts House, still recognisable from many of John Constable’s famous paintings. Next stop is Mistley, a small riverside town noted for its large number of swans who used to feed at the Maltings. From Wrabness station, it’s a short stroll to the community shop where you can join the footpath past artist Grayson Perry’s A House for Essex and ramble along the shores of the Stour estuary. Harwich International is the interchange for ferry crossings to the Continent, international commercial shipping, and round the world cruise ships. The branch

The Essex and South Suﬀolk Community Rail Partnership (ESSCRP) exists to increase passenger numbers on the six branch lines within Essex and South Suffolk. These are the: Mayflower Line (Manningtree to Harwich); Sunshine Coast Line (Colchester to Clacton and Walton-on-the-Naze); Gainsborough Line (Marks Tey to Sudbury); Flitch Line (Witham to Braintree); Crouch Valley Line (Wickford to Southminster); and the Southend Line (Shenfield to Southend). The partnership was founded in 1997 and was recently awarded Accreditation Status by the Department of Transport and the Association of Community Rail Partnerships. In north-east Essex, it runs special trains along the Mayflower Line to events such as the annual Sea Shanty Festival in Harwich. Visitors to the Maritime Festival can combine a journey on the Festival Train with a ramble from Wrabness. w: www.esscrp.org.uk

Join one of the many event trains along the Mayflower Line to enjoy the fun onboard (above), and take in the views (below: A House for Essex).

For ticket information go to www.greateranglia.co.uk/travel-information

Harwich Guide

GETTING AROUND n

Getting around INTERNATIONAL LINKS TO HARWICH AND DOVERCOURT

HATEVER YOUR preferred method of transport, Harwich and Dovercourt can provide the means; even stand-up paddle boarders have docked at the quay! There are hourly trains from London, Colchester and Ipswich. The service from London Liverpool Street calls at Harwich International Port, Dovercourt Town Centre and Harwich Town, on the Mayflower Line, and takes 82 minutes from London to Harwich (see page 6).

Visitors flying into London airports can catch connecting services into the centre of London and out to Harwich from Liverpool Street mainline station. Road users approach via the A120 from the A12, and ferry and ship passengers will alight at Harwich International Port (formerly Parkeston Quay). The Harwich Harbour Ferry transports pedestrians and bicycles between Harwich in Essex to Shotley and Felixstowe in Suffolk (see page 8).

ON YER BIKE! Route 51 of The National Cycle Network is a long distance ride, finishing in Harwich, having traversed the country from Oxfordshire. Part of the route is a 25 mile ride, starting in Colchester, cycling through Dovercourt, and finishing at Harwich Pier, which forms a section of the North Sea Cycle Route. From Harwich, you can take your bicycle on the Harwich Harbour Ferry (see page 8) across to Felixstowe. Once you have beached (literally; be prepared to push your bike over the stones), you can follow regional cycle route 41 up the Suffolk coast and across three other ferries. www.sustrans.org.uk www.thesuffolkcoast.co.uk/fourfoot-ferries-of-the-suffolk-coast

THE ESSEX WAY WALK The Essex Way is a long distance footpath stretching for 82 miles across Essex. It officially starts in Epping and ends in Harwich, at the High Lighthouse, but is signposted both ways. Whatever direction you choose, the route takes you along the Stour estuary with great views over to the Suffolk shore; through Copperas Wood, a 12 hectare SSSI nature reserve; and into the Dedham Vale and Stour Valley. www.essexwalks.com

THERE’S NO SHORTAGE of sea breezes in Harwich and Dovercourt, with miles of seafront to promenade along. And when you want to catch your breath, Cliff Park is just a few minutes’ walk from Dovercourt Town Centre. With mature trees, formal gardens, play area, bandstand, and seating areas, it’s an ideal place to look out over Dovercourt Bay. The Mayor’s Gardens, Barrack Lane, is a restful public garden containing shrubs and trees, and floral beds in summer.

For a more energetic exploration, you can book onto the Harwich Maritime Trail guided tours, or follow the leaflet. The Harwich Society offers free guided walking tours of Harwich every Saturday at 2.00pm, throughout the summer. However, other walking tours can also be arranged throughout the year. The average length of the tour is approximately one hour and normally includes entry to the Treadwheel Crane, Lifeboat Museum, High Lighthouse and Maritime Museum. Tours start at The Ha’penny Pier Visitor Centre. www.harwich-society.co.uk

FINDING OUT MORE Train www.greateranglia.co.uk Bus www.firstgroup.com Sea Harwich International Port (owned by Hutchison) www.harwich.co.uk Stena (day and night crossings between Harwich and Hook of Holland) www.stenaline.co.uk Local ferry Harwich Harbour Ferry www.harwichharbourferry.com Harwich Guide

VISITOR CENTRES HA’PENNY PIER VISITOR CENTRE The Quay, Harwich Exhibition on Christopher Newport, and Christopher Jones and the Mayflower. t: 01255 553610 www.harwich-society.co.uk MAYFLOWER 400 VISITOR CENTRE Esplanade Hall, 31 King’s Quay St, Harwich CO12 3ES Mayflower exhibition and interactive models www.historicharwich.co.uk HARWICH MAYFLOWER HERITAGE CENTRE The Railyard, Harwich Town, Essex CO12 3ND www.harwichmayflower.com

n GETTING AROUND

The Harbour Ferry CONNECTING ESSEX AND SUFFOLK SINCE 1912

EE HARWICH from the sea! The Harwich Harbour ferry is an ideal way to explore the biggest natural harbour on the east coast, and get great views of the town. Easily recognisable in its yellow livery, the ferry carries passengers, dogs and bicycles, under cover, between Harwich, Felixstowe and Shotley, from April to October. In the summer, harbour tours are available, and the ferry can be hired for river cruises and parties. The Harwich Harbour Foot and Bicycle Ferry runs regularly every day from the beginning of April until the end of October,

calling at the Ha’penny Pier at Harwich, the beach below the café at Landguard Point, Felixstowe and the Marina at Shotley. Although the ferry can carry 58 passengers and 20 bicycles, crossings are very popular and you are advised to book in advance and pay online. All you need to give them on the day is your name or your booking reference. Alternatively, card payments can be made on board. Bicycles and well-behaved dogs can also be transported (at £1 each). n

“A brilliant way to spend a Sunday morning! We bought tickets online, ferry arrived promptly, crew were friendly, the trip was smooth and we got some interesting views up and down the river.”

FINDING OUT MORE Harbour tours take 60 minutes and include Harwich, Felixstowe, and Shotley. They depart twice an hour from the Ha’penny Pier at Harwich; and leave Shotley and Felixstowe every hour. From the water you can see the Port of Felixstowe, the UK’s busiest container port; Landguard Fort, dating back to 1540; the Navyard Wharf at Harwich with roll on/roll off ships travelling to Scandinavia and Belgium; and yachts and small vessels traversing the lock into Shotley Marina. Onward transportation: The Harbour Ferry links up with buses in Shotley, Harwich and Felixstowe.

e: chris@harwichharbourferry.com t: 01728 666329 w: harwichharbourferry.com

Harwich Guide

H A R W I C H H E R I TA G E n

The Story of The Mayflower ONE SHIP, FOUR HUNDRED YEARS – AND THIRTY MILLION DESCENDANTS?

N 1620, a ship named The Mayflower, captained by Christopher Jones, a Harwich resident, sailed to the New World. On board were 102 passengers – religious dissidents seeking to settle overseas where they could practice their faith freely; and 32 crew – including three men from Harwich. The ship was just 90 feet by 26 feet wide, and the voyage from the last port of call, Plymouth, to the first landing, at Cape Cod, lasted from 16th September until 11th December 1620.

In due course, these ‘Pilgrim Fathers’ established a colony and principles that helped lay the foundations of modern America. They drew up a contract, the Mayflower Compact, whose laws for self-governance became enshrined in the US Constitution. Amongst the possibly 30 million who are descended from these settlers are Marilyn Monroe, Christopher Reeve, Benjamin Spock – and maybe you? 2020 marks the 400th anniversary of this astonishing endeavour. Harwich, along with ten other significant English places, Leiden in the Netherlands (where many of the religious dissenters had lived), and towns and cities in the United States, is celebrating Mayflower 400 with a programme of commemorative events and attractions. See page 10 for details of what’s going on in Harwich! n

Harwich Guide

Dennis Lennox, Christian Mail

SUPPORTED BY

FINDING OUT MORE w: www.mayflower400uk.org

“Harwich remains a bustling centre of maritime activity with cruise ships, ferries to The Netherlands and container ships. Jones and the Pilgrims with ties to Essex and neighbouring Suffolk would certainly recognise the town today.”

www.historicharwich.co.uk/mayflower-400

n H A R W I C H H E R I TA G E

In the wake of The Mayflower TALES AND TRAILS OF THE MAYFLOWER AND HER MASTER

N CELEBRATION of Mayflower 400, Harwich has created a brand-new Mayﬂower Trail and an exciting programme of activities and events linked to the ship and its master, Christopher Jones, and their voyage in 1620.

THE MAYFLOWER TRAIL The actual house where Master Christopher Jones lived, in King’s Head Street, is open to the public, and visitors can step back in time and walk in his very footsteps! His future wife, Sara Twitt, grew up in the house opposite, now The Alma pub. And alongside St Nicholas church, on the site of the church in which he and Sara were married, the Mayﬂower 400 Visitor Centre in Esplanade Hall (see Brave New Worlds below) features an interactive model of the ship, with maps and displays to bring alive the voyage.

All along the Mayflower Trail are opportunities to take photos through the porthole signposts or with life-size cut-outs of the passengers and crew. And don’t miss the willow sculpture of The Mayflower, planted on Harwich Green in October 2019, which will grow into a living monument. EXHIBITIONS AND EVENTS FOR MAYFLOWER 400 Exhibitions in the Harwich Society visitor centre on Ha’penny Pier (see page 12), and at the Harwich Mayﬂower Heritage Centre (page 32), give further fascinating insights into the Mayflower story, with lists of the passengers and crew and where they came from, models of the ship, and accounts of the hardships endured. From October 2019 onwards, new and regular events in Harwich will be Mayflower-themed, starting with

the spectacular Illuminate Festival in November 2019 as part of the nationwide launch of Mayflower 400. See page 21 for details of all the Mayﬂower events and festivals in Harwich throughout 2020.

FINDING OUT MORE The Mayflower 400 programme links 11 core destinations in England with wider local, national and international partners and over 30 million US citizens descended from the Mayflower’s passengers and crew.

Mayflower 400 Visitor Centre, Esplanade Hall, Wellington Road, Harwich w: www.mayflower400uk.org w: www.historicharwich.co.uk The Harwich Society t: 01255 502872 w: www.harwich-society.co.uk

BRAVE NEW WORLDS The state-of-the-art technology on show in the Visitor Centre in Esplanade Hall was created by Hart Wilcox Experiential Marketing. Their aim is to emotionally connect customers with brands, products, people and ideas – and the Mayflower displays enable individuals from all walks of life to become immersed in the experience of the Pilgrims and the story of the Mayflower. “From its beginnings in Harwich with Master Christopher Jones, to setting sail from Plymouth, the augmented reality feature will allow visitors to enter the year that was 1620, when real-life meets virtual.”

SUPPORTED BY

Hart Wilcox Experiential Marketing, Concept House, Colchester Road, Tendring, Essex CO16 9AA

t: 01255 831185

w: www.hartwilcox.com Harwich Guide

H A R W I C H H E R I TA G E n

The Harwich Society CELEBRATING 50 YEARS OF LOOKING AFTER HARWICH AND ITS VISITORS

EW PLACES in England offer a more picturesque Visitors’ Centre than the one run by the Harwich Society. Sitting squarely on the old Ha’penny Pier, the former ticket office is staffed all year round by friendly and knowledgeable members of the 2,000-strong Society. Looking for a free guided tour? The Society’s walks around historic Harwich start from here every Saturday from May until September. Fancy having your school group met by a costumed Town Crier? Enquire within! And don’t miss the exhibition on local heroes Christopher Newport, and Christopher Jones (master of The Mayflower; see page 9), who sailed from Harwich four centuries ago to establish colonies in the New World. The Society is also responsible for an eclectic collection of local attractions, including the Redoubt Fort, built in 1810 to defend the country from Napoleonic forces; the High and Low Lighthouses,

constructed in 1818 to guide shipping into Harwich harbour; the Lifeboat Museum, an old Victorian lifeboat shed dating from 1876; the Radar Tower, a WW2 radar emplacement built in 1941; and even the evocatively named Bobbit’s Hole Nature Reserve in Dovercourt. “The Society was formed in 1969 to help protect and restore the unique character of Harwich and Dovercourt Bay,” says Chairman Colin Farnell. “Fifty years later, every location we manage is staffed by enthusiastic volunteers keen to share with visitors their pride in the town.” n

High Lighthouse

Low Lighthouse

Ha'penny Pier at sunset

Redoubt Fort

Visitor Centre

FINDING OUT MORE The free Harwich Maritime Heritage Trail Map is downloadable from the website, with very comprehensive notes on each attraction. Guided tours can be organised in advance, or just turn up at the Ha’penny Pier Visitors’ Centre on Saturdays at 2pm from May – September. Check the website for opening hours of the attractions.

e: info@harwich-society.co.uk w: www.harwich-society.co.uk  @HarwichSociety @TheHarwichSociety Harwich Guide

n H A R W I C H H E R I TA G E

Historic Harwich attractions MANAGED BY THE HARWICH SOCIETY AND OPEN TO THE PUBLIC

p LOW LIGHTHOUSE

One of a pair of brick-built lighthouses (see the High Lighthouse), the Low Lighthouse was opened as the Harwich Maritime Museum in 1980. It houses nautical memorabilia, from photographs and paintings to ships in bottles and lighthouse bulbs. There are displays on the Royal Navy, including uniform and badges, and local commercial shipping. Don’t miss the fantastic view of the shipping activity in the harbour from the top floor! Open to the public Friday, Saturday and Sunday 10am-4pm. Adults £1, accompanied children free. No concessions.

p HIGH LIGHTHOUSE

The Harwich High and Low Lighthouses are 150 yards apart across Harwich Green and were built in 1818 as leading lights, ie they worked as a pair, with one light positioned over the other as seen by a vessel approaching from the sea when on the correct course. Although the High Lighthouse was withdrawn from service in 1862, it continues to be used as a landmark by mariners. It is now a museum, and also marks the end of the Essex Way, an 82-mile walking route (see page 7). Open to the public Friday, Saturday and Sunday 10am-4pm. Adults £1, accompanied children free. No concessions.

THE HARWICH MURAL

The mural in Wellington Road is a collage of local buildings and ships, commissioned by the Harwich Society and painted by pupils at the Harwich School. Open all year round, no charge.

u RADAR TOWER AT BEACON HILL

The Harwich Radar Tower, built in 1941 and operated by the Navy, is located inside an Army fort (now a scheduled ancient monument and not open to the public) at the harbour entrance. The 15 foot scanners inside the building have been restored. Open on first Sunday of the month, May to September, £1. Open to groups by prior arrangement.

Harwich Guide

H A R W I C H H E R I TA G E n

p LIFEBOAT MUSEUM

p REDOUBT FORT

Open from 1st May-31st August 11am-3pm Wednesday to Sunday. Adults £1, accompanied children free.

Open daily 10am-4pm from 1st May-30th September, and Sundays 10am-4pm the rest of the year. Adults £3, children in family groups free, Harwich Society members free. The Redoubt Open Day is held on the August Bank Holiday each year. The kiosk sells light refreshments and souvenirs.

The Lifeboat Museum is actually the old lifeboat house of 1876, and is home to the Valentine Wyndham Quinn, a 37ft long ex-Clacton boat of 1968. Since her arrival in Harwich from Cromer in 1993 she has been joined by The City of Leicester, an RNLI boarding boat which served the Walton Lifeboat Station until 1985. Visitors can observe the Oakley Class lifeboat from a raised walkway inside the house and walk through the wheelhouse.

This spectacular circular fort was built in 1808 to defend the port of Harwich against a Napoleonic invasion, and formed part of the Martello Tower chain of defences from Aldeburgh in Suffolk to Seaford in Sussex. Ten guns sit on the battlements. Eighteen casements below would have housed 300 troops in siege conditions. The Redoubt is being restored by the Harwich Society; and is possibly the largest ancient monument in the country being privately restored. It houses large guns, military uniforms, local artefacts and displays, and there are battle re-enactments and other events in the summer.

t THE TREADWHEEL CRANE

Now situated on Harwich Green, the Treadwheel Crane was built in 1667 in the old Navy Yard. It was worked by men walking in the interior of the wheels. Two wheels produced a balanced action – although unusually, there was no brake! By the beginning of the 18th century such cranes had only one drum and were powered by a donkey; the Harwich crane is believed to be the only example in Britain of a two-wheel, man-operated treadwheel crane. Visits by arrangement with the Harwich Society.

FINDING OUT MORE See map on pages 4 and 5 for locations

t: 01255 502872 e: info@harwich-society.co.uk w: www.harwich-society.co.uk  @HarwichSociety

Harwich Guide

 @TheHarwichSociety

n F O O D, D R I N K & A C C O M M O DAT I O N

The Pier at Harwich

EAT, DRINK AND STAY ON THE QUAY

ERFECTLY PLACED on the quayside, The Pier at Harwich is a small hotel with a big reputation for its accommodation, food and drink. The first floor restaurant overlooks the harbour, and tables have a stunning view across the Stour and Orwell estuaries and the working dockyard. Fresh fish is landed daily on the quay, and the menu showcases locally-sourced produce as well as reflecting the town’s European and Scandinavian connections. “One of the highlights of our culinary year is the Lobster Bonanza at the beginning and end of the local lobster season, at which we demonstrate how

versatile this crustacean is,” says managing director Paul Milsom. “The Pier specialises in seafood, and much of our fish is landed in the harbour opposite. Guests will find oysters from Mersea and crab caught here in Harwich on the menu, and our famous fish and chips all year round.” ”We are immensely proud to have been awarded four AA stars, and two AA rosettes for cooking.” The NAVYÄRD on the ground floor is a continental bar and terrace famed for its gin library of over 150 brands. Nordic-style small-plated food, coffee and fresh pastries, and late breakfasts are available here, in surroundings inspired by the shipyard nearby which built more than 60 vessels between the 17th and 19th centuries.

“Harwich packs some varied scenery and history into a small space, and The Pier is a wonderful location from which to enjoy it, with fantastic views from the rooms, terrace and restaurant.” The 14 bedrooms are individually styled to emphasise the seascapes and clarity of light on the coast. Harwich excels in glorious sunsets and the recently-extended balcony by the restaurant is an ideal place to drink in the rays of the setting sun on the Stour estuary. Harwich Guide

F O O D, D R I N K & A C C O M M O DAT I O N n

“Bar staﬀ are incredibly knowledgeable on the qualities and ﬂavours found amongst the wide selection of gins. I would recommend the Ginspired break to everyone.”

he Pier hotel is a listed building, in the heart of historic Harwich. Built in 1860, it is conveniently situated opposite the pier at which the Great Eastern Railway deposited its passengers bound for ships to the Continent. It was possible to leave Liverpool Street Station in London, arrive in Harwich, and be in Rotterdam or Zeebrugge within 14 hours. The family-run Milsom Hotels and Restaurants took over The Pier in 1978.

The group also own Le Talbooth, Maison Talbooth, Milsom Catering and Milsoms in Dedham, and Milsoms Kesgrave Hall in Suffolk. Unlike its neighbour, the former Great Eastern Hotel, The Pier has always been a hotel, at first serving rail passengers and now bringing guests from all over the world to discover the fine dining and accommodation of the hotel itself, and the history of the town on its doorstep. n

FINDING OUT MORE The Pier at Harwich, The Quay, Harwich CO12 3HH Open all day from 7am for breakfast. Full menu available in the restaurant from 12 noon through to 9.30pm (later at week-ends). No need to book. Afternoon tea from 2pm (booking necessary).

t: 01255 241212 e: pier@milsomhotels.com Harwich Guide

w: milsomhotels.com/the-pier

n F O O D, D R I N K & A C C O M M O DAT I O N

The Alma Inn and Dining Rooms A HARWICH INSTITUTION THAT EXUDES CHARACTER

HE ALMA INN has been at the centre of Harwich life since the 1850s, serving ale to the citizens, sailors, soldiers and farmers of the wind that passed through. Today it also offers all day dining, events throughout the year, and accommodation in rooms that shout of the centuries past. Located just moments from the quay, and within five minutes’ walk of Harwich railway station, The Alma straddles two streets in the historic old town. In the 1590s it was home to the future wife of the master of the Mayflower, Sarah

Twitt, who lived opposite. Today, the five bedrooms and one family suite are named after colourful characters from The Alma’s crowded past, and have been stunningly renovated to highlight curious features of this medieval building while providing contemporary comforts such as ensuite showers or wetrooms, flatscreen televisions, Nespresso machines and free wi-fi. Presiding over this blend of ancient and modern is the Innkeeper, Nick May. “We pride ourselves in being part of the local community. We throw ourselves wholeheartedly into all the local events as well as hosting a few of our own.” This includes the Shanty Festival each October,

and the Innkeeper’s general knowledge quiz every other Tuesday: “A bunch of weird questions followed by an assortment of unforgettable prizes!” The Alma is a CAMRA real ale pub with its own beer garden. It also stocks wine by the glass, bottle or jug, a selection of local gins, and English ciders. The menu includes Harwich lobster and freshly caught fish, as well as monthly steak nights and paella on Sundays, and there’s live music every other Friday night. Whether you drop in for a drink, stay for a meal, or spend a few nights here, The Alma will give you a fascinating insight into the life of Harwich past and present! n

FINDING OUT MORE The Alma Inn, 25 King’s Head Street, Harwich CO12 3EE t: 01255 318 681 e: booking@almaharwich.co.uk w: www.almaharwich.co.uk

Harwich Guide

F O O D, D R I N K & A C C O M M O DAT I O N n

Lambard’s Salt House WHERE FISH MEATS FIRE

ROM THE time of Edward III, who left Harwich in 1340 to fight at the Battle of Sluys, to 1982 and the war in the Falklands, and beyond, Harwich has been a supply depot for the nation’s overseas endeavours. For such long voyages at sea, the sailors needed their own food supplies on board – which had been preserved by smoking, pickling and drying. Harwich

was full of salt houses, and chief among them was John Lambard’s Salt House. The newly created Lambard’s Salt House, next door to The Alma, brings the opportunity to taste food cooked and preserved in traditional ways, in a building that pre-dates Christopher Jones, master of The Mayflower. n

Lambard’s Salt House before renovations

On 19th January 1604 the Lambard Stairs were “much in decay” according to the Harwich rolls, and Robert Russell, Christopher Jones’s stepfather, and Michael Twitt Christopher Jones’s brother in law were ordered to repair them. Who was Lambard and why should he have had some steps named after him? Luck, detailed research and some rolls of ancient parchment that should never have survived have meant that a part of forgotten Harwich history will soon be revealed. From Edward III leaving for the battle of Sluys in 1340 till the war in the Falklands, Harwich has been the supply depot for the nation’s overseas endeavours. The One Hundred Years War, the early expeditions of The East India Company and the Great War were all supplied from the port of Harwich. The bustling quayside streets were host to a myriad of wharves and warehousing, all these battles and expeditions needed their victuals, and long sea journeys needed preserved food. Food was preserved by smoking, pickling and drying but mostly by salting. Harwich was brimming with salt houses and foremost amongst these was John Lambard’s Salt House. Today we will bring you a taste of food preserved and cooked in old ways.

•

2 6 K I N G S H E A D S T R E E T, H A R W I C H W W W.L AMBARDSHARWICH.CO.UK

•

FINDING OUT MORE Nick May, the Innkeeper of The Alma

Lambard’s Salt House, 26 King’s Head St, Harwich CO12 3EE w: www.lambardsharwich.co.uk

Harwich Guide On 19th January 1604 the Lambard Stairs were “much in decay” according to the Harwich rolls, and

n F O O D, D R I N K & A C C O M M O DAT I O N

1912 Centre

AFFORDABLE ACCOMMODATION FOR GROUPS

ARWICH’S OLD fire station, dating from 1912, is a unique hostel offering affordable accommodation for visiting groups. Scouts, sailors, shantymen and many other groups have enjoyed the excellent budget-priced facilities and convenient location within the old town, close to the harbour, beach, promenade and the Essex Way. The fire engine garage now forms the central dining and recreational area, with adjoining bunk-style accommodation on the ground and first floors for up to 26 overnight guests. A fully-equipped kitchen enables groups to be self-catering, or

they can take advantage of nearby pubs and food outlets. There are showers and a drying room, central heating throughout, and facilities for disabled people on the ground floor. Guests can bring their own sleeping bags or hire duvets from the Centre. Early booking is advised during the summer months and the festivals. The 1912 Centre offers activity packages to the Scouting movement, and can arrange community services such as minibus hire. Day space at the Centre is available occasionally, for exhibitions, tea parties, meetings and classes. n

The 1912 Centre as it is today and in earlier times as a working fire station

“We had a great time, thanks for the use of the centre. We always look forward to coming here.” Accordion Orchestra, Hoek van Holland

FINDING OUT MORE Cow Lane, Kings Quay Street, Harwich, Essex CO12 3ES The 1912 Centre is open all year except 24th-27th December. Up to 26 bunks are available in six sleeping cabins. Price guide: 1 night £290, 2 nights £540, 5 nights £1,075, 7 nights £1,350. Other prices on application. Groups only which have sole use. No hen or stag parties.

t: 01255 552010

e: info@harwichconnexions.co.uk

w: www.harwichconnexions.co.uk Harwich Guide

F O O D, D R I N K & A C C O M M O DAT I O N n

Eat, drink and be merry!

OT SURPRISINGLY in a seaport, fish and chips and seafood feature on many menus in Harwich’s eating places. From the Pieseas Chippy to seasonal lobster at The Alma Dining Rooms, there’s something for everyone. And if you’re looking for atmosphere, the town has plenty to offer, from snug bars in historic pubs to alfresco dining on the balcony of The Pier Hotel, overlooking the Orwell and Stour estuaries. It’s reputed that Harwich once had the highest density of pubs in the country.

The fascinating Historic Harwich Trail suggests that in following the history of pubs you actually end up observing the history of a town and beyond – which sounds like a great reason for a pub crawl! The trail has been compiled by the Tendring Branch of the Campaign for Real Ale (CAMRA) and the Harwich Society and not only gives a potted history of the places en route but also highlights the fondness for festivals associated with drinking and eating! n See pages 20-23 for Festivals.

FINDING OUT MORE w: www.harwichpubtrail.co.uk

www.historicharwich.co.uk/where-to-eat

THE TOWER HOTEL The Tower Hotel is in an historic part of Harwich, and was built in 1885 as a private residence. It’s now a popular hotel, bar and restaurant, open to residents and non-residents, and offering guests a high quality, friendly service to ensure a relaxing stay. Lunch and dinner is served seven days a week, plus a carvery on Sundays and afternoon tea if pre-booked. The venue is licensed for wedding ceremonies within the restaurant and the staff take pride in making it a special day to remember for years to come. The Tower Hotel, Main Road, Harwich CO12 3PJ t: 01255 504952 w: www.tower-hotel-harwich.co.uk

Harwich Guide

THE WATERFRONT This charming establishment is located right on the waterfront in Dovercourt’s Lower Marine Parade – so you can enjoy delicious cuisine with some of the ﬁnest sea views around. Inside, the interior is stylish, clean and contemporary, providing a comfortable setting in which to drink or dine. Whether visiting for a drink with friends, a quick bite to eat or a full-blown family meal, there’s a warm welcome from the friendly team. And if you’re looking for somewhere to hold a special event, check out Sally’s, the Waterfront’s magniﬁcent events venue. The Waterfront, Lower Marine Parade, Harwich CO12 3SS t: 01255 507905 w: www.waterfrontharwich.co.uk

n W H AT ’ S O N

Eastern Exposure: Piano Transplant No. 4 by artist Annea Lockwood

The Harwich Festival

A LOCAL ARTS ORGANISATION WITH WORLDWIDE INFLUENCE

HE HARWICH FESTIVAL is a yearround arts organisation, whose work culminates in a splendidly-varied, ten day, combined arts festival. It believes that art is for everyone and this is reflected in the programming. The Annual Festival, held each summer at venues around Harwich, features classical, folk, jazz, spoken word and visual arts. There’s a mix of high profile, up-and-coming, and community artists across these genres and beyond. Each year the programme includes world premieres and something that has never been seen before. The Harwich Festival is well-known for its community arts projects, and in most years around 1,000 works of art are submitted to its varied community arts programmes, such as the 20cm x 20cm

Open Exhibition or public textile arts displays. In 2020, the programming will reflect the Mayflower 400 celebrations. OTHER ACTIVITIES The multi-talented Harwich Festival also has a strong year-round programme and runs other local projects and activities: the Harwich Arts and Heritage Centre, whose activities are tailored to promoting arts and heritage in the area; and the Harwich Box Office, based at Harwich Library, which promotes and provides booking opportunities and information for all local events. And the Harwich Festival also runs the Beside the Seaside Festival, with live music and family-friendly activities, on Dovercourt Bay’s Blue Flag beach. n

Fishy Business: Community Art Project by artist Monique de Vlieger

Esturiana by artist Anne Schwegmann-Fielding from an original idea by The Old Bank Studios, Harwich

“The Harwich Festival is an inclusive year-round arts organisation whose programmes and annual festival are well-known for the variety of talent and activity.”

FINDING OUT MORE t: 07425 145022 e: Michael.offord@harwichfestival.co.uk w: www.harwichfestival.co.uk  @HarwichFestival HarwichFestivaloftheArts Harwich Guide

W H AT ’ S O N ■

A festival for all seasons FROM SAUSAGES TO SECRET GARDENS, THERE’S A FESTIVAL IN HARWICH OR DOVERCOURT TO SUIT ALL SEASONS AND TASTES! DURING THE MAYFLOWER 400 COMMEMORATIONS, MANY FESTIVALS WILL BE MAYFLOWER-THEMED. NOVEMBER 2019 29th-30th Illuminate Festival and launch of Mayflower 400 A family-friendly procession and performance, from the Ha’penny Pier to Harwich Green. Many of the attractions on the Mayflower Trail, as well as the lighthouses and light vessels, will be lit up. www.harwichfestival.co.uk www.historicharwich.co.uk

DECEMBER 2019 31st New Year’s Eve Fireworks HarwichQuayNewYearFireworks

APRIL 2020 5th Mayflower Half Marathon

Illuminate Festival

11th-12th Harwich Secret Gardens See page 22

www.tendringcamra.org.uk

www.harwichtown.co.uk/beer-festival www.harwich-society.co.uk

25th-28th Harwich and Parkeston Winter Ale Festival

AUGUST 2020 8th Harwich Maritime Festival Presented by Harwich Haven Authority and incorporating Harwich RNLI Lifeboat Day HarwichMaritimeFestival  @HarwichSeaFest  #HarwichMaritimeFestival w: harwichmaritimefestival.co.uk

9th Beside the Seaside Festival on Dovercourt’s Blue Flag Beach www.harwichfestival.co.uk www.tendringdc.gov.uk

25th-26th Corbeau Seats Car Rally

SEPTEMBER 2020 11th-12th Harwich Society Heritage Weekend

MAY 2020 21st Mayor-Making Ceremony See page 33 www.harwichtowncouncil.co.uk

24th Tour De Tendring www.tendringdc.gov.uk

JUNE 2020 25th June-5th July Harwich Festival of the Arts See page 20 www.harwichfestival.co.uk

JULY 2020 Octopus Ahoy! Sculpture trail from 4th July-12th September 2020. Download the Octopus Ahoy app from 1st July. www.octopusahoy.co.uk Harwich Guide

NOVEMBER 2020 7th Harwich Sausage Festival

Beer Festival at Redoubt Fort

Organised by Harwich Runners and the Rotary Club of Harwich & Dovercourt. www.harwichrunners.co.uk

30th-4th May Harwich Ale Trail

Maritime Festival

www.harwich-society.co.uk

www.tendringcamra.org.uk

27th-28th Mayflower 400 Illuminate Festival See November 2019 www.harwichfestival.co.uk www.historicharwich.co.uk

DECEMBER 2020 King’s Head Street Christmas Market www.htra.moonfruit.com

Christmas Light Switch on Dovercourt town centre

St Nicholas Visits Harwich 31st New Year’s Eve Fireworks on the Quay HarwichQuayNewYearFireworks

13th Motorcycle Run and Harwich Family Fun Day In aid of Essex and Herts Air Ambulance www.ehaat.org

SUPPORTED BY

OCTOBER 2020 8th-11th Harwich Shanty Festival See page 23 www.harwichshantyfestival.co.uk

Harwich Guy Carnival Organised by The Rotary Club of Harwich & Dovercourt www.harwichguycarnival.co.uk

31st-1st Nov History Fair at 1912 Centre www.harwich-society.co.uk

“We’re on a mission to get you moved. So we have unique technology to market your home, and agents who will negotiate hard on your behalf. Sell smart: think haart.” haart Harwich, 1 Steele House, High Street, Harwich CO12 3PN t: 01255 879450 e: harwich@haart.co.uk w: haart.co.uk

n W H AT ’ S O N

Harwich Secret Gardens A DELIGHTFUL WEEK-END TRAIL EXPLORING OTHER PEOPLE’S GARDENS

ACH JULY Harwich residents open up the beautiful gardens and courtyards tucked away behind (or above) their close-fronted houses in the old town. All are within easy walking distance of each other, several serve refreshments and home-made cakes, and food and drink is also available at nearby St Nicholas church and local pubs. Owners are happy to chat about their gardens and choice of flora and even the fauna (don’t miss the donkey or the Cheshire Cat!). The Harwich Secret Gardens group was honoured in late 2017 with a Pride of Tendring award, in recognition of the donations to many local voluntary groups, thanks to the hundreds of visitors contributing £5 each through the purchase of entry programmes. Over £20,000 has been donated over the past nine years. 2020 marks the tenth anniversary of the Harwich Secret Gardens week-end, and the 400th anniversary of the sailing of the Mayflower to the New World. The theme for 2020 will be The Mayflower, with several gardens linked to buildings which existed in 1620, including that of the Mayflower’s captain, Christopher Jones. n

FINDING OUT MORE

Cost: £5 which includes entry to all gardens, and a brochure describing the gardens and a map showing their locations, and refreshments. Available from gardens, and local outlets including the Ha’penny Pier and St Nicholas church. Accompanied children free.

e: dentonjackie.jd@gmail.com t: 01255 502 925 harwichsecretgardens

Harwich Guide

W H AT ’ S O N n

Harwich International Shanty Festival

SO MUCH MORE THAN A CELEBRATION OF THE SONGS OF THE SEA

ROBABLY THE MOST colourful of the many delightfully quirky and entertaining festivals and events in Harwich is the Harwich International Shanty Festival. Held annually on the second week-end in October, the Festival fills the town with lusty shanty singers, pirates, costumed actors and maritime craftspeople; and music and singing pulsates from the numerous real ale pubs. There are Thames barge trips with entertainment on board. Shanty trains arrive along the picturesque Mayflower Line. Workshops teach skills such as playing the bones or knot tying. Craft

Harwich Guide

demonstrations include figurehead carving and kipper smoking. It’s the second-largest shanty festival in the UK, and the concerts feature top artists from home and abroad. Plenty of free entertainment is on offer too, throughout the whole town, with lots of opportunities to join in a song or two. Typically an average of 5,000 people attend the Festival each year over the three day period and there is something to suit all ages, with family activities including street theatre, historical re-enactment, pirate skirmishes, face painting and quizzes. In 2020 the Festival expands to

a full four days, with many extra events, as Harwich joins the Mayflower 400 celebrations (see page 21). If you are seeking a festival which encompasses music and song, sound and colour, theatre and costume, trains, boats, real ale and real history, look no further! n

FINDING OUT MORE t: 07921 640 772 or 07894 055 151 e: info@harwichshantyfestival.co.uk www.harwichshantyfestival.co.uk

n SEA & ESTUARIES

Harwich Haven Authority SAFEGUARDING THE HAVEN FOR SAILORS, SHIPPING AND WILDLIFE

OR MORE THAN 900 years, Harwich has attracted trade from across the world and continues to be an important contributor to the UK’s economic growth. Harwich Haven Authority was established by an Act of Parliament in 1863, and is responsible for preserving 150 square miles of the Haven. Forty per cent of the country’s container traffic travels through the area, and Harwich Haven Authority is a critical part of its ongoing success and development. The Authority also ensures the safety of everyone using the harbour. The Pilotage, Vessel Traffic Services and supporting marine services work to keep the Haven flowing night and day. As an independent organisation with no shareholders, Harwich Haven Authority generates income through the services provided. This enables it to reinvest surplus profits for the benefit of the stakeholders, who include the Department for Transport, local authorities, environmental groups, sailors, residents, community groups and employees. It also maintains a continuous dialogue with them to ensure that everyone’s needs are met.

SAFETY IN THE HAVEN The Authority provides free services for recreational users including navigational and traffic information via its Vessel Traffic Service (VTS) and a seasonal harbour patrol. The marker buoys, yacht channels and harbour patrols also help ensure safe passage. Tide tables for Harwich, Notices to Mariners and maps provide further useful information for locals and visitors. It also collaborates regularly with organisations such as the Harwich Area Sailing Association (HASA) to make their members aware of the hazards of boating in such a busy harbour. The Harwich Haven Authority works to preserve the environment by collaborating with groups including the Suffolk Wildlife Trust, Natural England and RSPB to protect natural habitats. More than 10,000 yachts of all shapes and sizes visit the Haven area each year. Whether you are visiting the area or are a local sailor it’s worth taking a look at the information on the Harwich Haven Authority’s website to ensure everyone’s safety and enjoyment. n

FINDING OUT MORE t: 01255 243030 w: www.hha.co.uk   @harwichhaven

Harwich Guide

SEA & ESTUARIES n

THE LV18 LIGHTVESSEL

LV18 is the iconic bright-red light vessel moored on the Harwich Waterfront at the Ha’penny Pier. Open to the public daily, May-September and other times by arrangement, and operated by the Pharos Trust charity, LV18 has been restored by a dedicated team of volunteers – and still contains the original crew quarters, galley, messroom and six Gardner diesel generators to power the lantern, foghorns and ship’s equipment. After retirement as a Trinity House lightship, LV18 became a mother ship for revival broadcasts of offshore radio, including Radio Caroline and Radio Mi Amigo. She now houses a fascinating Pirate Radio Museum. w: www.lv18.org e: info@lv18.org t: 020 3239 2841 for group and evening tours

HARWICH LIFEBOAT STATION

Harwich lifeboat station is one of 237 lifeboat stations operated by the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI), the charity that saves lives at sea. The Harwich RNLI boathouse is situated at the end of Harwich Quay and is home to two modern lifeboats. A fulltime coxswain, fulltime mechanic and 28 volunteers are on call 24 hours a day, 365 days a year. Harwich RNLI’s boathouse is an ‘Explore Station’, open to the public to view the lifeboats and information about the RNLI. A viewing gallery puts visitors right alongside the inshore lifeboat, and gives an excellent view of the all-weather lifeboat. w: www.harwichlifeboat.org.uk t: 01255 502258 Harwich Guide

HA’PENNY PIER

One of the UK’s few surviving wooden working piers, Ha’penny Pier is owned and maintained by Harwich Haven Authority and attracts thousands of visitors each year. It was constructed in 1853 and was a popular departure point for paddle steamers until the First World War. The name of the pier originates from the ½d (half an old penny) toll. Today, the charming ticket office is a Visitor Centre staffed by the Harwich Society. It is open daily from 1st May to

30th September and free guided tours of Old Harwich run every Wednesday and Saturday in the summer at 2pm. Opposite the Visitor Centre is a café and seafood stall, and at the end of the main pier you can watch the ships coming in and out of the Haven – in the company of Esturiana, the Harwich goddess created by artist Anne Schwegmann-Fielding. The pier also has free moorings for visiting yachtsmen, and is the departure and landing point for the Harwich Harbour Ferry (see page 8).

n SEA & ESTUARIES

Trinity House FOR THE BENEFIT AND SAFETY OF ALL MARINERS

RINITY HOUSE is a charity dedicated to safeguarding shipping and seafarers, providing education, support and welfare to the seafaring community with a statutory duty as a General Lighthouse Authority (GLA) to deliver a reliable, efficient and cost-effective aids to navigation service for the benefit and safety of all mariners. As a GLA it operates 66 lighthouses, 450 buoys, nine lightvessels, 22 beacons, seven DGPS stations and three vessels, monitoring its aids to navigation and operations 24/7 from its Harwich-based Planning Centre.

employing and training skilled men and women. Historical records show that Trinity House was already employing a longstanding buoy keeper at Harwich by 1742, but it is not known for sure when this practice started. Trinity House made an application to the Board of Ordnance in 1811 for a lease of a piece of ground at Harwich for building a Buoy Warehouse (“the present one being too small”). By 1812 Trinity House had an establishment which became a depot serving eight lightvessels and two lighthouses, as well as the new pair of lighthouses at Dovercourt.

TRINITY HOUSE IN HARWICH With headquarters next to the Tower of London, Trinity House has operational support depots and bases at Harwich, Swansea and St Just. Trinity House – respected the world over – has operated out of Harwich for centuries, proudly

WHAT CAN YOU SEE ALONG THE WATERFRONT? To carry out its GLA activities, Trinity House’s east coast depot has a Buoy Yard for the maintenance of buoys and a pier for mooring vessels and lightvessel alongside. It also houses the East Coast

Field Operations team members when they aren’t travelling around. Visitors to the waterfront may see one of Trinity House’s large red lightvessels alongside the pier; lightvessels are a major floating aid to navigation that Trinity House deploys in waters too deep or shifting for a lighthouse. The office building houses many departments concerned with different aspects of Trinity House’s provision of aids to navigation, such as marine operations, engineering, research and development and the various supporting and administrative functions that are vital to its success. This building also contains the Planning Centre, which monitors and co-ordinates Trinity House’s aids to navigation and operations all the year round. You may see Trinity House’s support vessels: the multi-function tenders THV Galatea and THV Patricia or the smaller rapid intervention vessel THV Alert. n Harwich Guide

SEA & ESTUARIES n

SAMUEL PEPYS

The Trinity House office on The Quay

Samuel Pepys (1633-1703) was an administrator of the navy of England and Member of Parliament who is most famous for the diary he kept for a decade while still a relatively young man. Pepys was sworn in as an Elder Brother of Trinity House on 24th January 1672, and was elected Master of Trinity House twice, in 1676 and again in 1685 when he was nominated Master in the Charter of King James II, dated 8th July 1685. Pepys was also MP for Harwich at the beginning of 1679 and from 1685-88.

The Planning Centre

Trinity House â&#x20AC;&#x201C; respected the world over â&#x20AC;&#x201C; has operated out of Harwich for centuries, proudly employing and training skilled men and women.

FINDING OUT MORE

The Buoy Yard at the east coast depot

Harwich Guide

Trinity House, The Quay, Harwich, Essex CO12 3JW t: 01255 245 000 w: www.trinityhouse.co.uk

n SEA & ESTUARIES

Navyard Wharf today (Below and anti-clockwise) The Three Cups, previously an inn; a Tudor map of the Haven; the board listing the ships built; and the old shipyard bell

Caption to come

Navyard Regeneration Navyard Ltd are promoting a new residential-led mixed-use regeneration of the Navyard site.

The Navy Yard Wharf

This exhibition describes the scheme and seeks

A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE WHARF AND THE HAVEN

HE HARWICH HAVEN is the only natural deep-water harbour between the Thames and the Humber. Harwich is known as a Haven Port, where ships can safely shelter in times of adverse winds. Over the centuries, the Haven has seen great navies gather in these waters (the English Fleet put into Harwich Harbour in 1588 after defeating the Spanish Armada) and submarine fleets surrender here. In 1919 120-150 German U-boats officially gave themselves up to the Allied Forces. From 1652-1713 the Royal Navy Dockyard operated here, on the site of a small twelfth century castle at the tip of the Harwich peninsula. The famous diarist Samuel Pepys, MP for Harwich from 16791685, was Secretary for the Navy. Lord Nelson visited Harwich in 1801 in his ship Medusa (after which the Medusa Channel

SUPPORTED BY

the public’s views on the proposals.

is named) to help with the formation of Sea Fencibles, a naval local defence force. He apparently took the opportunity to sample the facilities offered by the Three Cups inn, in the company of his mistress, Lady Hamilton. A board near the entrance to the Navyard Wharf records that between1660-1827, 58 Men of War ships were constructed in the Old Naval Yard. Next to it is the old shipyard bell, cast in 1666 by John Darby, bell founder of Ipswich. Naval and commercial shipbuilding continued under a succession of private operators, and Navyard Wharf was established on the site in 1962. It was run by Harwich Dock Company Ltd, part of the Mann Group. At that time Navyard was the first specialised car terminal and a leader in rollon/roll-off ports in the UK. The subsequent success of the Navyard has seen a repositioning of the business to a nearby port facility – and so a new chapter in the history of the Navy Yard Wharf opens up! n

“The harbour is of a vast extent; for, as two rivers empty themselves here, viz, Stour from Mainingtree, and the Orwel from Ipswich, the channels of both are large and deep, and safe for all weathers; so where they joyn they make a large bay or road, able to receive the biggest ships, and the greatest number that ever the world saw together.” writer Daniel Defoe, 1722

Harwich Guide

SEA & ESTUARIES n

Projections of what the development of the Navyard Wharf could look like

INTO THE FUTURE

N Mayflower Circle Promenade AVYARD LTD are proposing to re-develop the Navyard Wharf to become an additional quarter of Harwich, with new streets and modern terrace architecture, public spaces and views to the sea, to complement the old town. The development will connect the Quay to the Essex Coast Path via a continuous seaside promenade, and will also be an opportunity to improve the sea defences. Navyard Limited began operations in 1952, specialising in automotive and forest product industries. In 1963, they began

construction of the Harwich Navyard, one of the first purpose-built roll-on roll-off facilities in the UK. For over half a century, the Navyard’s operations have played a major role in the extended promenade would enable Green Streets Harwich. With their move to a larger and walkers, cyclists, wheelchair users and more appropriate location nearby, the buggies to enjoy the seafront as well as Pedestrian streets within the between scheme create semi-private Navyard has been freed up for a more moving easily Harwich and green arteries, linking neighbours and allowing for safe public-oriented phase of its life. Dovercourt. The area at the rear of supervised play. Plans being drawn up include over 300 Navyard Ltd’s present headquarters at new homes, and flexible employment The Naval House could become a market workspaces, with integrated parking. square and green park, with play areas and Waterside cafes and eating places along picnic spots... Watch this space! n

Looking east along the extension to Harwich Quay Promenade, a line of high-quality townhouses leads the eye to a new landmark building welcoming ships into the Haven Port.

FINDING OUT MORE Although The Three Cups in Church Street is no longer open to the public, there is a plaque outside and lots more information online www.thethreecups.com Mann Lines and its sister companies are privately owned companies providing liner ro-ro and container vessel services, ships agency, stevedoring, chilled and ambient warehousing, forwarding, chilled and ambient distribution and European express freight.

The width of the new promenade gives space to walkers, cyclists, buggies – anyone who wants to enjoy this new SUPPORTED BY public thoroughfare beside the sea. Mann Lines Limited, The Naval House, Kings Quay Street, Harwich, Essex CO12 3JJ e: enquiry@manngroup.co.uk Harwich Guide

t: 01255 245200

w: www.mannlines.com

n SEA & ESTUARIES

Harwich International Port GATEWAY TO EUROPE

ARWICH INTERNATIONAL Port is one of the UK’s leading multipurpose freight and passenger ports with excellent road and rail links to the Midlands, London and the South East. It is ideally located for North Sea freight and passenger traffic to and from Scandinavia and the Benelux regions, offering first class Ro-Ro, ferry, cruise and bulk operations. Harwich International is a member of Hutchison Ports, the port and related services division of CK Hutchison Holdings Limited. Built as a rail ferry port in the 1880s by the Great Eastern Railway, Harwich International has developed and expanded into a highly efficient, modern, multipurpose port, set in the best natural haven on England’s east coast. Harwich has

played a vital role in Britain’s maritime history for centuries and Harwich Haven was much valued in the 19th century by the masters of sailing ships seeking shelter. The Port has a long tradition of handling passenger and cruise ships and, together with ample parking facilities, an adjacent railway station offers regular direct services to and from London’s Liverpool Street. Attractions within easy reach include ‘Constable Country’ around Dedham and Flatford, the former Roman stronghold of Colchester (Britain’s oldest recorded town), Cambridge, famous for its ancient colleges and the Imperial War Museum at Duxford. As well as regular cruise ship calls to the Port, there are also daily passenger ferries to the Hook of Holland operated by Stena Line, the most direct route to the Netherlands and Germany from the south of England. n

FINDING OUT MORE Harwich International Port, Parkeston, Harwich CO12 4SR

t: 01255 242000

w: harwich.co.uk Harwich Guide

H A R W I C H H E R I TA G E n

Here-wic: a military settlement THE NAMES OF LOCAL HEROES LIVE ON

ARWICH’S HISTORY is full of seafaring characters and maritime adventures. But the town was also involved in military events and defence, on land, in the water, or through the actions of its inhabitants. The very name Harwich means ‘military settlement’, from the Old English ‘here-wic.’ Relatively modern fortifications can still be seen. The Redoubt Fort, the largest ancient monument in the area, was built in 1808 to defend the port of Harwich

against a Napoleonic invasion (page 13). The Navy’s radar operations, dating from 1941, is inside an Army fort at Beacon Hill (page 12). The Alma pub commemorates the famous Battle of the Alma, the first one of the Crimean War in 1854. And the actions of World War 1 hero Captain Charles Fryatt from Dovercourt are acknowledged in the naming of the Fryatt Hospital and the Fryatt Hotel. See box right

SANCTUARY AND SURRENDER A recent project highlighted two extraordinary events in Harwich, in 1918 and 1938. During the First World War, many shipments bound for England were sunk by German submarines. Shortly after the Armistice in November 1918, between 120-150 U-boats and other German ships and machinery were officially surrendered – at Harwich – to the Allied forces. The submarines were sold off and their crews taken back to Germany without coming ashore. In the Second World War, between December 1938 and May 1940, almost 10,000 unaccompanied mostly Jewish children were brought to Britain from Nazi Germany, Austria, Czechoslovakia and Poland in what became known as the

Kindertransports. The first children arrived by ferry at Harwich on 2nd December 1938. Some were taken by train to London, and others to holiday camps such as at Dovercourt Bay. Memorials can be seen at Harwich International station and at London Liverpool Street.

CHARLES FRYATT Charles Fryatt was born in Southampton in 1872. He joined the Great Eastern Railway in 1892 and took command of his first ship in 1913. On 28th March 1915, his ship, the SS Brussels was ordered to stop by a German submarine, but Fryatt ordered full steam ahead and attempted to ram U-33, which crash dived. On 25th June 1916, Fryatt’s ship was captured by the Germans and escorted into Zeebrugge. He was court martialled and later executed. His body was repatriated in July 1919, and transported in the Cavell Van – a railway carriage only ever used for three people, including Edith Cavell and the Unknown Soldier. After a funeral in St Paul’s Cathedral, London, he was buried in All Saints churchyard, Dovercourt.

The first Kindertransport arrivals came to England via Harwich in 1938

“The action of Captain Fryatt in defending his ship against the attack of an enemy submarine was a noble instance of the resource and selfreliance so characteristic of his profession.” from a letter written by King George V to Mrs Fryatt A willow sculpture of a submarine, on Harwich town beach, looking across the estuary to Felixstowe docks; commissioned by the Sanctuary and Surrender project.

Harwich Guide

n H A R W I C H H E R I TA G E

Harwich Mayflower Heritage Centre GATEWAY TO HISTORIC HARWICH

TEP OFF the train or bus at Harwich Town station - and step into history. The Rail and Shipping Museum awaits. At the other end of the platform, there’s the Visitor Centre, with the Mayflower exhibition, including a 1/8th scale replica of the ship, and the Hazelton Collection. Harwich Town station was built just three years after the Great Eastern Railway was completed in 1865. The buildings have undergone a massive transformation to become the GER station as it would have looked in 1924 – the year the Harwich train ferry branch line was officially opened

on 24th April by Prince George, Duke of Kent. The ferry link-span is still in place, listed, and awaiting restoration. Ten rooms in the north and south wings of the station have been superbly renovated to give visitors an authentic insight into the life of a busy station with its ticket office, stationmaster’s inner sanctum – and even a tearoom! Original uniforms, railway posters, furniture, and the largest known collection of tickets from the Harwich branch line, including a set of paper tickets from the very first train in August 1854, are all on show. At the Mayflower Visitor Centre, story boards tell the history of the Mayflower. Pride of place goes to a model of the ship

FINDING OUT MORE

itself, which was registered in Harwich to master Christopher Jones, whose house still stands in King’s Head Street, a short walk away. Look out for the scenes from the Pilgrim Fathers’ voyage and arrival in the New World in 1620 painted on the wall panels outside the Heritage Centre. The Hazelton Collection displays artefacts unearthed from the Harwich and Shotley shorelines over a period of some 60 years and includes clay pipes dating back to the time of the Mayflower voyage. Could some have been thrown overboard by the crew? n

The Hazelton Collection

The Railyard, Harwich Town, Essex CO12 3ND The Heritage Centre is open every Saturday (April to October) 10am - 4pm. Groups and coach parties welcome. Group tours by appointment throughout the year. 150 parking spaces. Coach parking. Disabled access and facilities.

t: 01255 318023

e: info@harwichmayflower.com w: www.harwichmayflower.com Harwich Guide

H A R W I C H H E R I TA G E n

The Guildhall

From top: carving of ship carrying the stars and stripes flag; traditional kitchel-throwing; and the mayor-making ceremony. Left: The Guildhall.

HOME TO THE TOWN COUNCIL AND OTHER TREASURES!

ARWICH’S ONLY Grade I listed building, the Guildhall in the heart of the old seaport, is home not only to the town council but also some fascinating treasures from the past, and traditions that are enthusiastically supported today. If you’re planning to visit Harwich in May don’t miss the annual Mayor Making ceremony. The new Mayor’s first task is the ancient custom of throwing kitchels – locally baked small spiced cakes – from

the window of the council chamber to the hungry crowd below. The Guildhall was purchased by the council in 1673, although its present beautiful architecture dates from 1769. The oak-panelled council chamber on the first floor is well worth a closer look, with portraits of significant local figures, a stained glass depiction of the town crest, and a portrait of Queen Elizabeth II, signed by Her Majesty in the chamber during a visit in 2004 to mark the 400 year

anniversary of the Royal Charter of 1604. But perhaps the most amazing feature of the Guildhall is what’s known as the Carvings Room. Prisoners were once held here, waiting to be tried or sentenced. To while away the time, they etched into the bare wooden walls of the room carvings of ships, gallows and symbols to ward off evil spirits. There’s a ship flying the Stars and Stripes flag from the time of the American War of Independence, and a carving of a hot air balloon contemporary with the Montgolfier brothers. n

FINDING OUT MORE Harwich Town Council, The Guildhall, 11 Church Street, Harwich, Essex CO12 3DS Tours of the Guildhall (open Monday, Wednesday or Friday from 9.30am-1pm) may be pre-arranged by contacting the Town Clerk. The council chamber is available to hire for meetings or private functions.

e: info@harwichtowncouncil.co.uk Harwich Guide

t: 01255 507211

w: www.harwichtowncouncil.co.uk

n LEISURE

Superb sports centres and beautiful beaches AT LEISURE IN DOVERCOURT AND HARWICH

ENDRING LEISURE Centres encourage visitors and the local community to lead active lives and make friends along the way. There are sporting opportunities for all levels. Tendring District Council’s membership packages offer great value for money; alternatively, visitors can take advantage of the pay per session pricing. DOVERCOURT BAY LIFESTYLES Dovercourt Bay Lifestyles is situated next to the boating lake near the sea front. There’s a 30 station gym, aerobic studio, swimming pool and family changing rooms. Children can learn to swim with the swim school, working within the Swim England Swimmers Journey programme which delivers classes that are safe, fun and effective. The pool is also a great place to have a birthday party with a difference! For those seeking progression, an active swimming club based at the pool organises gala events and competes regionally.

HARWICH SPORTS CENTRE Harwich Sports Centre is in the grounds of the Harwich and Dovercourt High School in Hall Lane. It is open to the public and has facilities for numerous sports, including tennis courts, squash courts, table tennis, badminton and indoor football. There is an active squash league at the sports centre which facilitates progression for all ages and abilities. It’s also a great venue for children’s birthday parties with a difference, including indoor multi sports, bouncy castle and soft play. DOVERCOURT BLUE FLAG BEACH This sand and shingle beach has great views out to sea, past the lighthouses, and over to the port of Felixstowe. Local attractions include the leisure centre, roller skating park, skating rink, crazy golf, restaurants and parking. n

“Beautiful beach, very clean and tidy. The beach huts are truly amazing, lots of colours, and people are so friendly.”

FINDING OUT MORE Harwich Sports Centre, Hall Lane, Dovercourt, Harwich, Essex CO12 3TB t: 01255 504380 w: www.tendringdc.gov.uk/leisure Dovercourt Bay Lifestyles, Low Road, Dovercourt, Essex CO12 3TA t: 01255 686176 w: www.tendringdc.gov.uk/leisure

Harwich Guide

LEISURE n

Seal watching from Harwich SEALS GUARANTEED OR A FREE TRIP!

HO CAN RESIST the opportunity to see hundreds of seals close enough to gaze soulfully into their eyes? Very few, judging by the popularity of the seal watching trips from Harwich! Tours operate all year round from the Ha’penny Pier. In the summer you will see harbour or common seals, and their pups in July; in winter grey seals join the colony – which may number up to 300. They live in the Walton backwaters, a maze of tidal creeks, mudflats, islands, salt marshes and marsh grasslands. It’s part of the Hamford Water national nature reserve, and is also home to wildfowl, wading birds and rare coastal plants. The 12-mile trip can be taken either on Gloria, an open deck timber vessel with room for 41 passengers; or on Seal Spotter,

a fast boat with cabin, available for private hire and accommodating 10 passengers. On approaching the backwaters, the engine is usually turned off so that the seals are not overly disturbed. Commentary is provided, and the crew are very knowledgeable. As regular visitors to the area, the crews make their own contribution to the conservation of this internationally important wetland. They provide regular seal counts to the wardens, and relay back daily information on the health and activities of the colony. n

“The boat stopped for quite a while so we could view the seals. We were provided with really clear binoculars and lots of information about them and the surrounding area. I thoroughly recommend this trip!”

FINDING OUT MORE Lifejackets are available for each passenger, and there are binoculars on board. Extra clothing is recommended. Trips take 2 hours on Gloria, 90 minutes on Seal Spotter. Booking is best done in advance, online. Gift vouchers are available. Dogs cannot be transported.

e: harwich@sealwatching.co.uk t: 01728 666329 w: sealwatching.co.uk Harwich Guide

n DIRECTORY

Entrepreneur Harry Dulai, managing director of Surya Foods, founded the World Food Aid charity

Think global, act local WORLD FOOD AID OPENS SHOP IN HARWICH

NTERNATIONAL CHARITY World Food Aid (WFA) has chosen Harwich as the location for its first shop. The charity shop in the High Street sells furniture, clothing, books, and a selection of world food products in the pop-up pantry. Proceeds will help local Essex causes such as food banks and emergency school holiday food clubs. Charity shop manager Jennifer Wall says, â&#x20AC;&#x153;The shop relies on the generosity of local people donating goods and volunteering their time. We hope that visitors and residents will pop down to the shop to pick up a bargain and learn more about WFA.â&#x20AC;?

WORLD FOOD AID Tackling the global hunger crisis by supporting sustainable solutions is the aim of the World Food Aid charity. It was

founded by entrepreneur Harry Dulai, managing director of Harwich-based world food specialists, Surya Foods. Although his day-to-day job involves dealing with an abundance of food, he was acutely aware of the devastation hunger causes. In addition to galvanising his industry to raise vital funds, he is particularly concerned about food wastage and setting up simple mechanisms for large food producers to donate stock to redistribution centres. He is also using his position in the industry to encourage other important influencers to come out in support of the worldwide movement to end hunger and create the necessary momentum to inspire change. n

FINDING OUT MORE w: www.worldfoodaid.org

Harwich Guide

DIRECTORY n

HISTORIC HARWICH WEBSITE

Welcome to www.historicharwich.co.uk – the online portal to this charming seaside town. Built in 2017 by Standout, a design and marketing agency, the website receives more than 2,000 hits per month from locals and tourists alike. “We wanted to create an online presence for this fantastic coastal town in the build-up to the Mayflower 400 year. Harwich and Dovercourt is a thriving place, with so much going on – we thought it deserved to be shouted about,”

w: www.historicharwich.co.uk

says Dan Barber from Standout. Commissioned by Tendring District Council, the website includes plenty of information for holidaymakers and day trippers, such as the best places to eat, stay and shop, a business directory, and an extensive What’s On events section. There’s also a wealth of practical advice on getting to Harwich, with transport guides, tide times, cruise schedules and maps, to make visiting a breeze, as well as a Have Your Say section to encourage residents to get involved and share their local stories or upcoming events.

www.standoutuk.com

SO MUCH MORE AT MCDONALDS Come and experience your local McDonald’s – just off the A120 as you approach Harwich. There are self-order kiosks for you to browse the menu at your own pace, and table service to take the stress out of finding somewhere to sit. They also have free-to-use tablets, allowing customers to check their newsfeed or play the latest games. And there is a free Play Place for children, making precious family time even more enjoyable. McDonald’s, Williamsburg Avenue, Harwich CO12 4GA t: 01255 508534

SNIP ‘N SHAPE

The talented stylists at the Snip ‘n Shape hair salon in Dovercourt High Street are specialists in colour, cuts, restyles and perms. The salon was set up in the 1970s by Anne Catten, who attributes the successful relationship between clients and stylists to careful management by Rosemary, long-term staﬀ, and keeping up with trends. “Our clients know they can leave our salon looking and feeling confident, with cared-for hair,” she says. Snip ‘n Shape, 196 High Street, Dovercourt CO12 4HS t: 01255 506050

SALONS 2 A traditional British barber shop at the top of Dovercourt High Street, Salons 2 has been providing dry trims, colours, highlights and perms for men since 1988. A walk-in service is available or appointments can be made – the salon is open from Monday to Friday, 9am-4.30pm, and Saturdays 9am-3pm. Why Salons 2? Because their first salon is for ladies only! Salons 2, 290 High Street, Dovercourt CO12 3PD t: 01255 504988

Ellisons Solicitors is a dynamic and innovative firm, with a rich history, having been established in the East of England for over 250 years.

SUPPORTED BY

Tendring oﬃces: Harwich, Clacton-on-Sea and Frinton-on-Sea e: enquiries@ellisonssolicitors.com t: 01255 502428 w: www.ellisonssolicitors.com Harwich Guide

n DIRECTORY

USEFUL CONTACTS

page

First Group buses www.firstgroup.com Greater Anglia trains www.greateranglia.co.uk Ha’penny Pier Visitor Centre (May – September) 01255 553610 .................. 11 Harwich Connexions (for residents only) www.harwichconnexions.co.uk Harwich Festival of the Arts www.harwichfestival.co.uk ........................... 20

HARWICH TOWN SAILING CLUB The club is based at Angelgate overlooking Harwich Town beach and Harwich Harbour. It was formed in the 1960s to cater for the newly emerging sport of dinghy sailing, and is run solely by its membership on a voluntary basis, organising dinghy racing and sail training activities from Spring through to Boxing Day on alternate week-ends. Check out the Club’s website for the sailing schedule and watch some of the action. New sailing members are always welcome. w: www.htsc.co.uk

Harwich Haven Authority www.hha.co.uk .............................................. 25 Harwich International Port www.harwich.co.uk ....................................... 30 Harwich Maritime Trail www.harwich-society.co.uk ............................ 11 Harwich Mayﬂower Heritage Centre www.harwichmayﬂower.com ....................... 32 Harwich Pub Trail www.harwichpubtrail.co.uk Harwich Society www.harwich-society.co.uk ............................ 11

DOLPHIN SAILS Established in 1964, Dolphin have grown from a 22 x 12 foot shed at the bottom of a family garden, into a proudly British business with an international customer base. They have two lofts in Essex, in Harwich and West Mersea; a base in Hamble on the South Coast; and a newly-expanded loft in Palma de Mallorca. Using advanced computer design and programming, Dolphin are wholeheartedly embracing innovative ideas in the development and production of their extensive product range, which includes sails, covers and tensile awnings. Dolphin Sails, 400 Main Road, Harwich CO12 4DN e: sails@dolphin-sails.com w: www.dolphinsails.com

THE MAYFLOWER OF HARWICH Local author Paul Simmons has written a short book about The Mayflower, based on his own research and theories. He delves into the Mayflower’s origins, and examines the facts and fictions surrounding her demise. Only available online. To buy: www.amazon.co.uk /Mayﬂower-Harwich-Paul-Simmons-ebook/dp/ B005OA34H2

Harwich Town Council www.harwichtowncouncil.co.uk .................... 33 Historic Harwich website www.historicharwich.co.uk ........................... 37 Mayﬂower 400 Visitor Centre www.tendringdc.gov.uk .................................10 Secret Gardens

f harwich-secret-gardens .......................... 22 Shanty Festival www.harwichshantyfestival.co.uk ................ 23 St Nicholas church www.harwichpeninsulaparish.co.uk Stenaline www.stenaline.co.uk Sustrans (National Cycle Route 51) www.sustrans.org.uk Tendring District Council www.tendringdc.gov.uk The Essex and South Suﬀolk Community Rail Partnership (ESSCRP) www.esscrp.org.uk .......................................... 6 The Essex Way www.essexwalks.com ..................................... 7 The Guildhall www.harwichtowncouncil.co.uk ................... 33 Traveline www.traveline.info Trinity House www.trinityhouse.co.uk ................................ 26 Visit Essex www.visitessex.com

Ellisons Solicitors is a dynamic and innovative firm, with a rich history, having been established in the East of England for over 250 years.

SUPPORTED BY

Tendring oﬃces: Harwich, Clacton-on-Sea and Frinton-on-Sea e: enquiries@ellisonssolicitors.com t: 01255 502428 w: www.ellisonssolicitors.com

Harwich Guide

WH Y NOT DRO P IN O N YO U R WAY T O HA R WIC H? LE TALBOOTH Dedham, CO7 6HP - Award winning restaurant beside the River Stour

If you are travelling to Harwich to join in the Mayflower 400 celebrations, then don’t miss the chance to stop at Dedham in the heart of the famous Constable Country. It’s only 20 minutes away and we have three exceptional properties for you to discover. Or visit nearby Milsoms Kesgrave Hall, located just outside Ipswich. Of course, once you get to Harwich, we have The Pier right opposite the Ha’penny Quay.

MAISON TALBOOTH Dedham, CO7 6HN - Luxurious country house hotel with pool

THE PIER Harwich, CO12 3HH - Restaurant, bar and hotel on the Essex Coast

KESGRAVE

DEDHAM

MILSOMS Dedham, CO7 6HW - Bustling brasserie with all day dining and relaxed hotel

MILSOMS KESGRAVE HALL Kesgrave, IP5 2PU - Boutique hotel and no-need-to-book restaurant

TO FIND OUT MORE OR BOOK ONLINE visit www.milsomhotels.com

HARWICH

FOUR HUNDRED YEARS after The Mayflower and her master Christopher Jones sailed to the New World, visitors to Harwich can still see many of the streets and houses as Harwich resident Christopher Jones knew them – including his own, now open to the public. DISCOVER THIS HISTORIC SEAPORT AND HOLIDAY RESORT, ‘twixt sea and estuary. Soak up the atmosphere, sample the seafood, stay in superb accommodation, enjoy the festivals – and come back for more!